Hospitality April 2022

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NO.782 APRIL 2022

ELE BY FEDERICO & KARL • BÚN BÒ HUẾ • CATALAN CUISINE

CONTENTS // April

Contents APRIL 2022

20

Regulars 8 // IN FOCUS Pastry Chef Natsuko Shoji on being named Asia’s Best Female Chef.

10 // NEWS The latest openings, books, events and more.

14 // PRODUCE A new lobster species has arrived.

16 // BEST PRACTICE Jack Hanna shares the dos and don’ts of opening a venue.

18 // BAR CART Thirst quenchers, slow sippers and all things beverage related.

4 | Hospitality

44

20 // DRINKS Limoncello is more than just a digestif.

26 // PROFILE Federico Zanellato and Karl Firla on launching Ele. 30 // RESTAURANT PROFILE Catalan fine diner Parlar opens with Executive Chef Jose Saulog at the helm.

56 // EQUIPMENT Cast-iron pans are an investment with staying power.

58 // 5 MINUTES WITH …

Aalia’s Head Sommelier Eleonore Wulf.

30

Features 32 // HONG KONG CUISINE From peanut butter-filled French toast to fish balls.

40 // ONES TO WATCH Three highly anticipated venues that have been worth the wait.

44 // RAVIOLI The classic Italian dish is still a staple menu item.

52 // BÚN BÒ HUẾ There are multiple processes to the much-loved Vietnamese dish.

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EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello

Social

Keep up with the Hospitality team

THE BEST KIND OF FLAKE Yum cha at Mr. Wong isn’t complete without Wagyu truffle puffs. @annabellecloros

A word from the editor I DON’T KNOW about you, but I tend to plan

restaurant, starting at the bar before heading

most of my overseas trips around food, whether

to the table and finally, the chef’s counter.

it’s found on a street corner or a high-end

Jack Hanna has penned a guide on the

restaurant. My travels to Hong Kong have

dos and don’ts of opening a new venue

led to some of my most memorable dining

and Tawnya Bahr and Lucy Allon give us

experiences, and Hospitality’s Journalist Aristine

the rundown on a new species of soft-shell

Dobson brings back plenty of these with her

lobster chefs can’t get enough of. We also

feature on Hong Kong’s cha chaan tengs, which

cover the classic pasta dish of ravioli and

make everything from French toast to fish balls.

dive into the makings of Bún bò Huế.

This issue, I speak to Karl Firla and Federico

LAYER BY LAYER Impressive craftsmanship from Christina’s Honey Cakes; raspberry is my favourite. @aristinedob

A friendly reminder that the Hospitality

Zanellato about opening Ele at The Star

Leaders Summit is next month. Tickets are

Sydney. It marks the second collaboration

now on sale for the event, which is returning

for the chef team, but this time, they’re

for the first time since 2019. Don’t miss out!

doing things a little differently. Ele is all about experiential dining with a multi-course

Until next time,

set menu enjoyed against a backdrop of

Annabelle Cloros

revolving visual art installations. Diners are

Editor

A MARG WITH A DIFFERENCE The Douglas Club celebrated World Margarita Day with a cucumber and agave number. @hospitalitymagazine

Follow us

also on the move during their time at the

@hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au JOURNALIST Aristine Dobson adobson@intermedia.com.au

ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au GROUP ART DIRECTOR – LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au

CIRCULATIONS To subscribe please call 1800 651 422. hospitalitymag azine.com.au facebook.com/ HospitalityMagazine twitter.com/Hospitalityed instagram.com/hospitalitymag

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DISCLAIMER This publication is published by Food and Beverage Media, a division of The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the “Publisher”). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher’s endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication. Copyright © 2022– The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd

6 | Hospitality

41 Bridge Road Glebe NSW 2037 Australia Tel: 02 9660 2113 Fax: 02 9660 4419

Average Net Distribution Period ending September 2019 – 11,506

https ://ubr .to/ho

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IN FOCUS // Natsuko Shoji

BAKING IS CONSIDERED an art form, and

the sentiment could not be more accurate for

Natsuko Shoji, who has been named Asia’s Best

Female Chef 2022 by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.

In 2020, the pastry chef expanded her Tokyo-

based tart shop Été to include an exclusive sixseat dining experience. The concept is revered

for its innovation and as the birthplace of one of Tokyo’s most sought-after desserts.

Shoji talks to Hospitality about the beginnings

of her culinary journey, career-defining dishes

and inspiring the next generation of women in the industry.

Natsuko Shoji first stepped foot in the

professional kitchen at Florilège, a French

restaurant in Tokyo. She was promoted to sous

chef within three years, but it wasn’t long before she decided to go it alone. The chef opened Été, which means summer in French, in Shibuya.

“I was 24 when I first opened Été,” says Shoji.

“I thought it would be really hard to [open] a

restaurant business because I was inexperienced,

I was not famous, I was young and I was a female cook. It meant it was going to be difficult hiring

staff and finding customers, so I started Été as a unique tart shop.”

Any concerns were soon quashed once Shoji

began making and selling a mango tart, a

dessert that has gone on to receive acclaim

from customers and industry peers. “I wanted to make something people would instantly

recognise as my creation,” says the chef. “I made a tart in [what] looked like a square

jewellery box. I truly believe my signature dish was the starting point of my success.”

The tart features three different layers

including crispy, butter-rich sabret topped with

diplomat cream and the dessert’s trademark rose

Master creations Natusko Shoji on being named Asia’s Best Female Chef 2022 and her tart shop Été.

WORDS Aristine Dobson

made of mango slices glazed in syrup.

Like many of Shoji’s creations, the dessert was

inspired by her interest in fashion. Customer requests have also been a defining factor for some of Été’s other prized creations. “My

cooking style is inspired by fashion and art, and

I’ve designed my restaurant in an haute couture style,” says the chef. “I’m also inspired by the

diners who come to my restaurant; many of my signature dishes were requested by them.”

An example is Été’s strawberry cake, which

draws inspiration from Louis Vuitton’s Damier print. The cake features Yuki-Usagi white

strawberries from Saga and red Sakura Momo

strawberries from Tokushima. “There are many

beautiful, high-quality, seasonal fruits in Japan,” 8 | Hospitality

IN FOCUS // Natsuko Shoji

says Shoji. “Many people from overseas come to Japan to taste Japanese fruits and I’m very proud of this.”

It wasn’t until last year that Shoji saw an opportunity

to create a dining experience for her tart shop’s existing customer base. “After the success of Été’s cake business, I started serving food for my cake customers only,” says Shoji. “It’s like a special invitation to fashion events.

After you become a local customer, you get invited to dine at Été’s private restaurant.”

Guests at Été are met with aesthetically pleasing

dishes that some would say look too good to eat. For

Shoji, taste and visuals are equally important. “I believe in creating collections that are not only delicious to eat, but are visually beautiful,” she says. “The reason why I call each dish or dessert a creation or a collection is because I want them to be seen as a work of art.”

Fashion and food don’t often come together, but the

concept has certainly put Shoji and Été on the map. “I see this as a great opportunity to show the world my

“If you create a masterpiece, you will eventually get acknowledgement, regardless of the size or location of your restaurant.” – Natsuko Shoji

new and unique strategy of combining fashion and

gastronomy,” says the chef. “I hope we can make the

fashion community more aware of what’s going on in the food industry and reach a further audience.”

Receiving the title of Asia’s Best Female Chef is a

monumental achievement for Shoji and marks the

acheivement of a long-time goal. “I’ve learned that

if you create a masterpiece, you will eventually get

acknowledgement, regardless of the size or location of

your restaurant,” says Shoji. “Even though I faced many obstacles as a female chef, I am proud to have proven people wrong by racking up achievements.”

Inspiring other women to join the industry is another

motivator for Shoji. “There aren’t many female chefs in Japan, so I hope to be a role model and give them the

hope that they can achieve anything they set their minds to,” she says. “I hope to encourage more female chefs to join the industry by striving to gain recognition on a global scale.” ■

April 2022 | 9

NEWS // Entrée

Entrée

The latest openings, books, events and more.

EDITED BY Aristine Dobson

Cobram Estate releases First Harvest 2022 Victorian growers Cobram Estate are gearing up to launch the 2022 edition of First Harvest olive oil next month. Moderate weather conditions have created a balanced olive crop, with top-quality olives from Hojiblanca, Picual and Coratina trees all used to make First Harvest. The vibrant green extra-virgin olive oil will be available in 500ml glass bottles for $60 from 11 May. cobramestate.com.au

Infuse and inspire Wild Drinks Sharon Flynn Hardie Grant; $39.99 Fermentation expert Sharon Flynn is back with her second book Wild Drinks, an in-depth guide to beverages with a difference. Flynn has spent more in countries including Malaysia, Europe, Japan

Maldon’s new look

and the US. The book covers infusion, brewing and

Maldon Salt’s signature pyramid-shaped salt flakes have stood the test

fermentation processes and features more than 60

of time, and now the brand has unveiled refreshed packaging across its

recipes from mead and kombucha to cider and kvass.

range. The new aesthetic features geometric shapes in contrasting shades

than 20 years studying the benefits of fermentation

of green and orange, evoking a modern look. “Heritage is important to us, so the new packaging design had to respect our past while also embracing the future,” says Maldon Salt Managing Director Steve Osborne. mayers.com.au 10 | Hospitality

Artisanal chocolatiers Koko Black has launched its annual Easter collection, with the team rolling out 40,000 bunnies, 200,000 Easter eggs and 90,000 praline eggs. “This year, we have really focused on distinct, natural flavours and textural elements that tempt the palate,” says Head Chocolatier Remco Brigou. The collection also includes hot cross bites, milk chocolate caramelised coconut flecks and vegan apricot and almond mylk eggs. kokoblack.com

Hit refresh Matt Moran’s Rockley Pub has reopened with a revamped menu and a refreshed interior fit-out. The venue, located south of Bathurst, now encompasses a 90-seat restaurant, bar and beer garden with more renovations to come. “This is going to be a project I will work on for years,” says Moran. “Hopefully it gives a bit back to a part of Australia I love so much.” The menu heroes local produce through pub-style dishes such as house charcuterie, Hawkesbury calamari, Green Hill Farm spicy pork sausage roll and dry-aged sirloin. therockleypub.com.au

Alberto’s Lounge welcomes head chef Swillhouse Group’s Alberto’s Lounge has announced Elizabeth Mitchell as the new head chef of the Sydney restaurant. Mitchell is no stranger to the venue and joins after a stint at the now-closed Italian eatery Don Peppino’s. Mitchell is also the co-founder of Ten Hats, which sees one-off dining experiences hosted at various locations. “[Elizabeth] is armed with a broad palate and a devotion to eating at all levels from city fine dining to outer west boltholes,” reads a press release from Swillhouse. “Now, Liz is bringing her creative and inquisitive expertise to our very own kitchen.” swillhouse.com

Back to Bali Paon Tjok Maya Kerthyasa and I Wayan Kresna Yasa Hardie Grant; $50 Balinese natives Tjok Maya Kerthyasa and I Wayan Kresna Yasa provide insight into the traditional kitchens of Bali in Paon. The book features more than 80 recipes alongside photography and essays that capture the diversity of the local cuisine and its signature dishes. Paon is divided into six chapters that explore topics including the relationship between food and worship plus a plethora of zero-waste cooking tips.

April 2022 | 11

NEWS // Entrée

Koko Black unveils Easter collection

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12 | Hospitality

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PRODUCE // Soft Shell Bay lobster

Has five Cannot be

pairs of legs

found in the wild

Flavour profile of the head is mineral and salty

Farmed in a facility Entire lobster can be

in Chinderah, New South Wales

cooked and Can be grown to

consumed

reach specific sizes

Soft Shell Bay lobster A new species of lobster is making an entrance into the Australian market.

WORDS Lucy Allon and Tawnya Bahr ILLUSTRATION Elena Fombertaux

Origins

an extremely vulnerable larval period, until

buttery, while the head meat exudes

The Soft Shell Bay lobster is a farmed product

they reach optimum soft-shell size. As the

minerality and salinity. The shell of the lobster

that is part of the slipper lobster family, which

animal moults, the producers only have a

has unique umami and savoury notes.

includes 90 species of achelate crustaceans.

15-minute window to harvest the product

It is known by the scientific name Thenus

before the lobster’s shell becomes hardened

Culinary applications

australiensis and is being pioneered by

and unsuitable for consumption.

Soft-shell lobsters can be cooked and

Australian Bay Lobster Producers, who are

consumed entirely, which means they have

farming it as a sustainable solution to cater to

Appearance and flavour profile

a 100 per cent recovery rate and are a

the growing demand for premium Australian

When it comes to size, soft-shell lobsters

waste-free ingredient. They can be prepared

seafood. The supplier also produces Moreton

differ as they can be grown to meet specific

in a similar manner to soft-shell crabs. The

Bay bugs and wild hard shell bay lobsters,

requirements. The most common weights are

lobsters can be used as a hero ingredient

which are caught along the South-East and

40-50g and 60-70g, with the lobsters graded

and accompanied by herb and garlic butter,

Central Coast of Queensland.

according to 10g increments. The colour of the

deep fried and served with a dipping sauce

lobsters varies according to their pre-harvest

or used in a curry. Chef Ben Devlin has

Growth and harvest

diet. They are fed Australian mussels, which

featured the lobsters on the menu at his

The soft-shell lobsters are farmed in a facility

contribute to their dark amber colouring. The

Pottsville restaurant Pipit. “My favourite way

in Chinderah, New South Wales, which has a

lobsters have a broad, flat head with five pairs

to use them is to split the different parts of

controlled recirculating aquaculture system.

of legs and a short, narrow tail.

the lobster,” he says. “It allows me to expand

The lobsters are hatched from eggs and reared through multiple life stages, including 14 | Hospitality

They have three distinct flavour profiles.

The tail meat is described as sweet and

on those flavours and make them come together in the best way possible.” ■

www.gffoodservice.com.au/bread/artisan-bread

BEST PRACTICE // Failure to launch

How not to open a venue Goodslines Café Owner Jack Hanna on lessons learned.

WORDS Jack Hanna

I EMBARKED ON a journey to

the relationships they have

open a new hospitality business

with customers and staff. If you

What worked before might not work now

halfway through 2020 with the

want the business to be run

This is potentially a case of too

thought COVID-19 would be well

by staff and managers, it

much too soon. An example

and truly over (or recovering)

requires you to think, plan

is the implementation of QR

by the middle of 2021. I had

and strategise.

code ordering. If a venue has

extensive hospitality experience

high demand, you can probably

and worked on venues including

Understand your concept

The Grounds and The Grounds

Think about what you want to

Sometimes you just

of the City, and this meant I

achieve out of your concept. If

had what is arguably the most

you want the business to be a

need to have the

dangerous weakness to any

breakfast venue, make it the best

conviction and the

business: ego. My ego led me

breakfast destination it can be.

belief the concept

to believe I could open anything

Sometimes you just need to have

anywhere and make it a success.

the conviction and the belief the

Here are some of the things I

concept will work. Don’t try to be

implement a digital ordering

will work.

platform, but guests did not enjoy this process at Goodlines and they felt it took away from the dining experience.

The backlash is still being felt today.

Take accountability Media and marketing

We all make mistakes,

Don’t wait too long to reach

sometimes inadvertently. The

Location, location, location

out to media after opening as

goal is to provide guests with

Be clear on who you are

You’re thinking, ‘Of course

the hype dies down. We didn’t

the best service, food and

I don’t mean business-wise; I

location is important’. It’s

have media during the first

beverage you can. However,

mean who you want to be as a

essential to go beyond a

few months of operating as we

during the times you don’t,

leader or a person in business.

suburb’s demographic and

needed time to get our systems

reflect and take ownership.

You must ask yourself if you you

take the time to find out who

and procedures together before

You also must shift and change

want to be a business operator

the locals are and if there’s

any announcements. It really hurt

things quickly or it will have

or a business owner. There are

an appetite for your concept.

us during lockdowns because

lasting and permanently

some amazing businesses run

Marrickville is not Pyrmont and

we weren’t part of any pieces on

damaging effects on the

by owners, and you can see

Fitzroy is not Albert Park.

new venues.

business. ■

have learned, even though they

everything to everyone.

may seem obvious.

16 | Hospitality

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www.peerlessfoodservice.com.au

NEWS // Drinks

Bar cart

Thirst quenchers, slow sippers and all things beverage related.

EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros

Taking flight Portland’s Aviation American gin has flown into the Australian market with its signature botanical formula. The gin sees cardamom, coriander, French lavender, anise seed, sarsaparilla juniper and two types of orange peels steeped in neutral grain spirit for 18 hours before distillation begins.

“Aviation recognised modern palates have changed, putting juniper on the back end of the flavour profile, moving the citrus forward and incorporating lesser-used botanicals (at

Pared back

the time) of Indian sarsaparilla and lavender,” says Travis

Tilde~ vodka is doing things a little differently. For starters, it’s Australia’s

aviationgin.com

Tober, director of Education and Advocacy. Available at Dan Murphy’s and select liquor stores.

first raw vodka crafted according to a bespoke process. Distillers use a craft sour beer wash base and minimal filtration, resulting in a vodka with lactic bite and notes of citrus. Tilde~ was developed over a two-year period and the wait is finally over; find it in select bottle shops and venues now. tilderaw.com.au

Plant power We all drink it, but have you tried water with 18 nutrients and minerals? PlantWater combines everything from chlorophyll, zinc and magnesium to iron and vitamin C in its namesake product, with venues including Fishbowl and Sideroom now stocking the aesthetic beverage.

The water is high-pressure pasteurised and made from 95 per cent Australian ingredients.

Simply shake to ‘activate’ and enjoy. plant-water.com.au

Brunswick made Melbourne distillery The Gospel Whiskey has launched its second single-cask release dubbed #147. It’s the first whiskey made from 100 per cent Brunswick distillate, with the rye whiskey distilled, matured and bottled on-site. #147 has notes of apricot, peach and timber with a long palate of melted butter and dark chocolate. Best enjoyed neat or on the rocks. But hurry, there are just 300 bottles available for $150. thegospelwhiskey.com

18 | Hospitality

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DRINKS // Limoncello

When life gives you lemons Limoncello is slowly making more appearances behind the bar.

WORDS Aristine Dobson

LIMONCELLO IS AN Italian digestif believed

the influx of Italian immigrants bringing Italian

Azzurra, located off the coast of Capri. However,

Hammersla. “I know an Italian grandpa in every

to have been invented over 100 years ago in

surrounding islands have also staked claim to its inception. Regardless of its disputable origins,

culture with them in the ’50s and ’60s,” says major city who makes it in his backyard.”

While limoncello is widely celebrated in its

limoncello is the ideal liqueur to commence a

country of origin, the drink has been largely

a shot glass.

“Limoncello has never really taken off like the rest

meal in a cocktail application or end one in

Although it is simple to make and easy to

drink, the tangy elixir has yet to really boom

within Australia’s hospitality scene. But in the

right setting, limoncello has serious potential to become a go-to item behind the bar.

Hospitality talks to Henry Hammersla of Unico

Zelo and Kwame Sinclair from QT Sydney’s Gowings Bar & Grill about the makings of

limoncello, cocktail options and why they think it’s set to boom in the bar world.

Henry Hammersla oversees the production of Unico Zelo’s limoncello product Unico Cello,

which is made in South Australia. The former

bartender says limoncello has significant heritage

in Australia, with the drink moving from a housemade product to a more formal setting. “We

have a wonderful history of backyard or hooch limoncello all throughout Australia because of 20 | Hospitality

overlooked within the local bar industry.

of the drinks the Italians have produced, and I

think it’s a lack of experience holding it back,” says Kwame Sinclair, bartender at Gowings Bar & Grill in QT Sydney. “There’s a lot of people who have

never tried limoncello and don’t know much about it. They probably don’t know they would really enjoy it.”

Traditionally, limoncello is consumed chilled

and straight up. It is a slow sipper designed to

be drunk at a leisurely pace due to its typically

high alcohol content. Unlike the original version, Unico Cello has a much lower ABV. “We’re sitting at 20 per cent, whereas most Amalfi Coast or

Calabrian limoncellos sit around 25 plus, some even go up to 35,” says Hammersla. “But it

means we get really good mouthfeel. Ours is creamy because we add a lot of sugar.”

While the product bears similarities to

“There’s not a lot of commercial push behind it, whereas I feel there should be more.”

– Kwame Sinclair

“Montacute Valley is the oldest orchard in South

cent ABV, it can appear slightly watery so you

nuggets of lemons, but we don’t care what they

in consistency. “When you’re sitting at 35 per

chill limoncello to become more viscous,” says

Hammersla. “When you put ours in the freezer, it almost turns syrupy because we’ve got so much sugar in there.”

Gowings makes limoncello in-house, which

Australia,” says Hammersla. “They’re absolute look like, we care what they taste like. The

orchard is now over 150 years old, which means the lemons they produce are incredibly complex and very high in mineral content.”

Aside from sugar or sugar syrup, alcohol is the

fits right in with the venue’s Italian steakhouse

other core component, which is vodka in most

Sinclair says its uses are multifaceted. “I think it’s

for limoncello. “All of our ethanol comes from

theme. While Gowings serves the digestif neat,

a great way to start or end an evening,” explains

the bartender. “We’ve been able to mix it up with

some of our cocktails and the flavours you get are pretty awesome.”

When describing the flavour profile of

limoncello, Sinclair describes Gowings’ version:

cases. Unico Zelo uses ethanol as a base distillate Tarac,” says Hammersla. “They purchase grape

musk and waste from most of the wineries in South Australia and re-distil it into different products

[including] a neutral-base distillate that we buy at 96 per cent, which we water down.”

Choosing the right alcohol is essential for

“I would say it is really rich and flavoursome,”

the maceration process. Ideally, a neutral,

the beginning, but then it slowly mellows out.

lemon or fruit flavour. “I personally feel that

says the bartender. “It has a sharp sweetness at There’s a lot of veracity to the one we make here, and it has great texture with a rich, sharp sweetness.”

Limoncello is made with “fruit, booze, sugar and nothing else” as Hammersla succinctly puts it.

Unico Zelo Limoncello

makes a

is popular

mandarin

along

version of

the Amalfi

limoncello:

Coast

Unico Mando

Limoncello is

The Aurelius

clean foundation is used as a vehicle for the if you start to get too experimental with the

vodka, there’s no real value added because all the other flavours, textures and notes

are so overpowering,” says Sinclair. “The vodka is just the alcohol component.”

The limoncello at Gowings uses Campari’s

Lemons are of course the star ingredient, with

Skyy vodka, but substitutes can achieve

Eureka citrus sourced from South Australia.

call for gin and some suggest you should

Unico Cello using a combination of Meyer and

DRINKS // Limoncello

traditional limoncello, Unico Cello differs slightly

the same result. “I’ve known recipes that

believed to

in Rome

have been

cocktail

invented by

uses

Maria Antonia

freeze-dried

Farace in

raspberries

Azzurra

April 2022 | 21

DRINKS // Limoncello

“We are using the whole fruit, which is a bit different from a more traditional method.”

– Henry Hammersla

use overproof,” says Sinclair. “It’s not

and then we add 50 per cent sugar syrup

one standard drink. You can also use it

much, but I look forward to mixing it up

a bottle of vodka and it sits for another

spritz with Prosecco and soda.”

something I’ve experimented with too at QT.”

(1/3 of that is just straight water) and half two weeks,” says Sinclair.

At Gowings, time is a big factor when it

Like all distilling processes, making

comes to achieving a high-quality product.

to the simple things such as peeling the

spend in the vodka, the better the flavour.

limoncello is a science and comes down lemons. “The touchpoints are mitigating the amount of bitterness we are looking

for; we don’t want pith,” says Hammersla.

“We are using the whole fruit, which is a bit different from a more traditional

For Sinclair, the longer the lemon peels “It is probably a one-month process in total [for our limoncello], you want

to allow it time to breathe, aerate and macerate together.”

method, but we want a very fine peel

Although limoncello is often consumed

layer of the skin.”

flavour profile is ideal for a raft of

because of the oil that floats in the first Maceration is the next step, Unico Cello’s

process takes 14 days or longer. “There’s a dependency there on the variability of

the fruit, which means it can be longer or shorter,” says Hammersla. “We then pass

the mixture through a small micron filter

[which] doesn’t strip out any oils and then we bottle it.”

Fifteen lemons are used per 700ml

of vodka for Gowings’ limoncello, with

as is, many overlook the fact its bright

cocktails. “We wanted to create something you want to drink in a spritz [for

of Sinclair’s cocktails dubbed the Aurelius in Rome. The drink calls for 40ml limoncello, 20ml raspberry gin, 10ml raspberry syrup,

30ml lemon juice and 20ml egg white. “It’s shaken with ice and then double strained

into a hybrid between a coupet and a wine

glass,” says Sinclair. “In this particular drink, the limoncello enhances and complements

everything else that’s going into it. It’s lemon

on top of lemon with freeze-dried raspberries [which are] typically more sour than they

are sweet. The raspberry gin and basil leaf round everything else out.”

The consensus among bartenders and

you absolutely hammered straightaway,

underrated. “I think it’s a bit of a lost

have ease of application and not get

which can sometimes happen with Italian limoncello when you’re using it in those

applications as opposed to drinking it as a traditional digestif.”

There are myriad options for bartenders

to try. “Something as simple as limoncello

infuse in a dry setting for about two weeks

Hammersla. “You can pour 60ml and it’s

22 | Hospitality

Limoncello is the hero ingredient in one

example],” says Hammersla. “It should

the maceration process conducted over

multiple stages. “We let the lemon skins

in place of Aperol and make a limoncello

and soda is really refreshing,” says

producers is that limoncello is highly artform, particularly in Sydney, and

is definitely underappreciated,” says

Sinclair. “It’s a little bit on the fringes and is typically served in an Italian eatery or

perhaps among friends at home. There’s not a lot of commercial push behind it, whereas I feel there should be more.”

So what are you waiting for? ■

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PROFILE // Ele by Federico & Karl

Ele

by Federico & Karl Federico Zanellato and Karl Firla on the lead up to opening Ele: a restaurant that’s unlike anything the Sydney dining scene has ever seen before.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros

WHEN DAVID CHANG’S Momofuku Seiobo closed its doors in 2021,

many wondered what would fill the void left behind by the game-changing restaurant. It wasn’t enough to simply open another fine diner, the

newcomer had to be intentionally multifaceted, experiential, and journeydriven — literally and metaphorically. Chefs Federico Zanellato and Karl Firla were up for the challenge, putting their names behind The Star Sydney’s newest dining offering: Ele by Federico & Karl.

Zanellato and Firla talked to Hospitality in the weeks leading up to the

restaurant’s April opening about how the opportunity to open Ele came

about, spearheading a venue with a holistic approach to dining and the decision to forgo cuisine for technique and unrivalled produce.

Karl Firla’s Oscillate Wildly was known the city over for its degustation

menu and reputation as a launchpad for burgeoning chef talent. The venue 26 | Hospitality

case at Ele. In a landscape that’s shifted towards

Federico Zanellato to open Restaurant Leo in

the opposite direction. “Food is not first and

long before Firla teamed up with Lumi Dining’s 2020. The contemporary Italian venue marked

the first collaboration between the pair who were pleasantly surprised when an executive from The Star Sydney approached them about opening a

restaurant. And not just any restaurant — the one that would replace Momofuku Seiobo. “We were

a ‘less is more’ approach, Ele is accelerating in foremost,” says Firla. “We needed to think of

dining as a whole and do something completely different from anyone else in Sydney. It’s all the components that are involved in dining and a new experience people haven’t had before.”

both a bit shocked when they asked if we were

Momofuku Seiobo offered guests two distinct

“They’re big shoes to fill.”

Firla and Zanellato referenced their own visits

interested in taking over the site,” says Zanellato.

Initial discussions confirmed there were

limitations when it came to the space, with

the kitchen and the counter remaining in the

original locations. However, the layout proved

to be the starting point of what would become Ele. “We thought a new food concept wasn’t

enough for the venue; it needed to be something different and unique to bring customers in,” says Zanellato. “Taking over Momofuku with a new

menu just wasn’t it; people are always going to

dining experiences: the table and the bar.

to Seiobo and decided to split Ele into three

sections: the bar, the dining room and the chef’s counter. “When we first decided to take over, we were like, ‘How do we make sure every

guest who comes through the door experiences all services?’” says Zanellato. “So we created

different areas within the venue for people to

move around in. They have to let us guide them, and we hope they will be openminded.”

Ele’s eight-course menu begins at the bar with

compare. It took us a while to think about it and

a selection of snacks before guests are ushered

The notion already sets Ele apart from most,

courses. The final savoury dish and the desserts

go back to them.”

if not all, restaurants. A culinary offering

naturally takes pride of place when it comes to a venue’s mission statement, but that’s not the

PROFILE // Ele by Federico & Karl

closed in 2019 after a 15-year stint, and it wasn’t

into the dining room for most of the main are served at the counter.

As for dishes, there’s plenty to be excited

about — just don’t try to pigeonhole them

“There are elements that are probably most notable for diners through visuals and the cooking process, but you won’t notice some of those things until you’re in different parts of the dining space.”

– Karl Firla

April 2022 | 27

PROFILE // Ele by Federico & Karl

“We are focusing the concept on premium Australian ingredients and highlighting them through the skills we’ve learned over the years.”

– Federico Zanellato into a particular cuisine; the menu is a

The undercurrent of Ele revolves around

the back-of-house team proved to be a

“We are focusing the concept on premium

earth, but they aren’t just present in the

climate. However, finding the right front-of-

culmination of many years in the kitchen.

Australian ingredients and highlighting them through the skills we’ve learned over the years,” says Zanellato. “The

menu highlights the work of local farmers,

the elements of fire, ice, water and

food. “We’re delivering the story from

the aesthetic to the consumption of the product,” says Firla.

The aesthetic is largely conveyed by

fishermen and all the people behind

visual art installations that have been

Firla lists marron from Western

“With regards to content, there’s some

the products.”

Australia, Murray cod, Mayura Station

Wagyu from South Australia and heirloom vegetables as some of the most exciting

ingredients to appear on Ele’s debut menu.

Zanellato is particularly proud of the

Pearl and the Potato dish. “Pearl meat is

one of the most luxurious ingredients in Australia in terms of seafood and we’re pairing it with potato, which is one of

the most humble worldwide,” he says.

Diners can also expect ingredients to

make more than one appearance, with

marron heroed across two courses. “We’re

using it in two different ways and showing how we can utilise all aspects of the

of wait staff,” says Zanellato.

“It’s a different concept, so it’s

of positions. It’s a small footprint and we

and copyrighting,” says Firla. “We’ve used The Star’s platforms and [the content]

interest, but there’s not a huge volume need a willing and capable team.”

As the weeks tick down, excitement

is dedicated to Ele and won’t be used

and nerves surround the opening. Ele is

process of looking at implementing our

relatively few restrictions, and there’s a buzz

anywhere else in the venue. We are in the own platforms, so there will be more of a

story with the content in the future and it will be more personal and customised.”

As diners move from bar to table and

experience unfurls. “There are elements

grapes in all different textures.”

very difficult, plus there’s a huge shortage

legal ramifications as far as trademarking

flavours. Another is Chardonnay Fresh to

grape products from verjuice to wine and

main struggle is front of house, which is

challenging,” adds Firla. “There’s good

table to counter, they are privy to Ele’s

Frozen; it’s a pre-dessert with different

house workers proved a little harder. “Our

selected from The Star’s library of assets.

“There is contrast in terms of the value of the ingredients, but also the textures and

relatively smooth process in the current

interactive components as the dining

that are probably most notable for diners through visuals and the cooking process,

but you won’t notice some of those things

until you’re in different parts of the dining space,” says Firla. “We’re cooking on

charcoal, but that’s not to say there won’t be a visual component you can reference

launching at a time where the city has

in the air when it comes to getting out and enjoying ‘normal’ life again. “My biggest

concern is what the reaction will be to this

concept that is quite new and unique,” says

Zanellato. “There’s always an element of fear

and the unknown when you open a business.

I know Karl and I can deliver a good

product, but the reaction from customers is what keeps me awake at night. People are

going out more and I’m not concerned about the first few months, it’s more about how we make customers come back and continue to attract new guests.”

“It’s going to be something different and

for context.”

I think people will be very interested,”

known components of an ingredient,” says

It’s been a huge effort from not just Firla

the bumps, and we can do what we really

and it’s part of a story.”

get Ele up and running. Thankfully, building

produce rather than just the more well-

Firla. “The menu platform has progression

28 | Hospitality

and Zanellato, but the wider Star group to

adds Firla. “Ideally, we have gone past all enjoy, and that is cooking for people who enjoy eating.” ■

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RESTAURANT PROFILE // Parlar

Parlar

A Catalan-inspired fine diner has arrived in style in Sydney’s Potts Point.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros

BARCELONA HAS LONG been a giant in the culinary realm, attracting chefs who seize the opportunity to work in some of the best restaurants in the

world. Naturally, it also welcomes its fair share of food enthusiasts who are keen to immerse themselves in the iconic dining scene.

You’d be hard pressed to meet someone who doesn’t mention ‘that trip’ to

Barcelona; it’s just one of those places that never fails to leave an imprint.

Sydney Restaurateur Andrew Becher is one person who has fond memories of

the city, going on to encapsulate his own experiences in Parlar, a new Catalaninspired eatery in Potts Point.

“On all my travels throughout Europe, I always stopped by Barcelona,” he

says. “You could say I have a long-standing love affair with the city. I love the

Catalonian coastline and surrounding regions, in particular the Perpignan area of Southern France, which has a strong influence on Parlar’s cuisine.”

Becher is also behind Franca Brasserie, with the restaurant’s Executive

Chef Jose Saulog joining Parlar in the same role. Saulog speaks to Hospitality about riffing tradition, tweaking flavour profiles and why snacks are the way forward.

30 | Hospitality

RESTAURANT PROFILE // Parlar

Canadian-born Chef Jose Saulog began his career as an apprentice in Vancouver before he moved to Sydney to work at Glass Brasserie and later,

on it using the best Australian ingredients we can find, but we’re sticking with basic Catalan flavours.”

– Jose Saulog

But that’s not to say the format is unlike what

you’d experience in Spain. “There’s a lot of snacks,

restaurant in Germany presented itself. “I went to

says Saulog. “Snacks and small plates have been big

Hamburg to chase the Michelin star dream and

our own spin

sticking with basic Catalan flavours,” says Saulog.

Tetsuya’s. A stint at Bells at Killcare followed

until an opportunity to open a game-changing

“We’re putting

Australian ingredients we can find, but we’re

helped open a restaurant called Lakeside,” says Saulog. “We won a star in our first year.”

tapas, pintxos — whatever you want to call them,”

here over the past 10 years, but they’ve been doing them forever in Spain because that’s the culture.”

And that means liberal use of iconic produce

The chef made his way back to Sydney and was

from paprika to jamón Iberico and Ventresca tuna

working his way up to the executive chef position

and fatty with so much umami,” says Saulog. “It’s

part of the opening team for Franca Brasserie, over the years. Now, he’s also heading up

Andrew Becher’s latest restaurant Parlar, which

belly, which is used in a mayonnaise. “It’s so rich a far stretch from your typical tinned tuna.”

is conveniently located next door to Franca on

Every venue has its signature dishes, and Parlar’s is

It marks the first time Saulog will focus on

with orange. “We all know anchovies and churros,

Macleay Street.

Catalan cuisine, and the chef says he’s more than up for the challenge. “If you do one thing forever, you have blinders on,” he says. “It really helps

turn the gears and expands everyone’s minds.

I get ideas for Parlar, but then I think, ‘Maybe this is for Franca’.”

Parlar’s approach reflects the backbone of Spanish cuisine: simplicity. “A lot of us have travelled

through Europe, and Barcelona is a must-visit

a tossup between the anchovy churro and kingfish but together, they’re quite unique,” says Saulog.

“It’s your basic churro recipe without the sugar and there’s crème fraiche and chives as well.”

While flavour is number one, Parlar’s orange

interior fitout is mirrored in the kingfish dish, which combines the protein with sturgeon

caviar, fresh orange and smoked tomato oil. “It goes so well with the room and the dish really pops,” says Saulog.

There’s also fideuà, a Catalan version of a paella

place,” says Saulog. “I’ve been there a few times

made with pasta instead of rice. “It’s a big highlight

means fancy — it’s honest and humble.”

“It’s quite seafood-rich and tastes like paella, but it’s

and really fell in love with the cuisine; it’s by no Parlar’s menu hasn’t taken the traditional

route, with the team making the decision to

start with the basics and veer a little off course.

“We’re putting our own spin on it using the best

here, no one else is really doing it,” says Saulog. pasta. It’s really crunchy on the bottom, too.”

The dish perhaps exemplifies what Parlar is all

about — a dining experience that toes the line between familiarity and innovation. ■

April 2022 | 31

FEATURE // Hong Kong cuisine

32 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Hong Kong cuisine

A bit of everything Cha chaan tengs and street food make up much of Hong Kong’s culinary culture, with two Sydney venues embracing one dish at a time.

WORDS Aristine Dobson PHOTOGRAPHY Kera Wong for Kowloon Café

IN THE FAST-PACED city of Hong Kong,

north, it’s very cold, so they use a lot more

youtiao (bread dough stick). You also get

time, its cuisine has been shaped by two

find that sort of spice, but it’s richer in

and peas.”

food is available on every corner. Over main concepts: the first is cha chaan

teng, a café or diner-style venue that has

chilli. With Hong Kong food, you won’t terms of flavour.”

Both venues specialise in cha chaan

been an essential for locals since the ’50s.

teng or Hong Kong café food, which is

hawkers, where dishes such as fish balls

of cha chaan tengs in Hong Kong; they’re

The second is traditional street food or

and shark fin soup have long been staples.

There is a lot to unpack when it comes

to Hong Kong’s overall food culture, but local venues are aiming to recreate the experience by capturing the essence of history, tradition and influence.

Hospitality talks to Kowloon Café’s Howin

Chui and Sun Ming’s David Chan about key dishes and providing the cha chaan teng experience for diners in Sydney.

Hong Kong cuisine is hard to nail down

and is defined by its multifaceted nature.

“Hong Kong cuisine is Cantonese food, but if you talk about street food or café food,

it’s very different,” says Owner of Kowloon Café Howin Chui. “Hong Kong cafés can be a mixture of Western dishes as well,

but the street food is very authentic Hong Kong cuisine.”

According to Owner and Head Chef

of Sun Ming Hurstville David Chan, geography has influenced much of

the flavour profiles and dishes seen in

heavily prevalent in the city. “There’s a lot basically everywhere,” says Chui. “A cha

chaan teng is where you can have a drink and get a feed quickly [for] breakfast,

lunch or dinner. The menu is big, has a lot of variety and is really cheap.”

“We opened Kowloon Café because my friends and I always go back to Hong Kong and there is food we miss.”

– Howin Chui The concept came about during the ’50s,

Hong Kong. “Everyone has different

with the food representing a significant

is, but Hong Kong is situated in the south

was colonised by the British, so there’s a

interpretations of what Hong Kong food of China, so it’s a very southern type of Chinese food and that means we don’t have a lot of spice,” says Chan. “In the

historical period for the city. “Hong Kong very British influence,” says Chan. “The

breakfast menu would probably be congee

with a side of noodles, stir-fried noodles or

French toast or macaroni soup with ham Street food, which can be found in

open-air stalls known as dai pai dong,

include everything from curried fish balls

and cheung fun (rolled rice noodles) to siu mai and stinky tofu. Although the offering at Kowloon Café is geared towards cha

chaan teng dishes, the menu still serves typical street food snacks. “You don’t

really find fish balls in cha chaan teng, but we still sell them,” says Chui. “The Hong

Kong-style curry is another big thing; you can have it with fish balls, beef brisket or chicken for different flavours.”

For Chan, street food stalls conjure up

fond childhood memories, but the chef

describes them as a “dying art” due to the dwindling numbers. “Because it has to be cheap and good, rent is a big factor and a lot less people are on the streets now

COVID-19 is happening,” says the chef.

“Growing up in Hong Kong, there would always be stinky tofu, but it’s almost impossible to find now.”

A cha chaan teng menu can encompass many different dishes, but there are

core food items used across the board.

Ingredients including egg, ham, corned beef and spam are mainstays at a cha

chaan teng and are frequent add-ons at

Kowloon Café. “Egg and spam are huge

because people order a rice [dish] and add egg and spam or they get a curry brisket rice with extra spam.”

Tomato-based dishes are also coming April 2022 | 33

FEATURE // Hong Kong cuisine to the fore as Hong Kong café food continues to

beef and we add beansprouts and chives for

been playing a big part in Hong Kong cafés,” says

we finish the dish, it has a really nice char that

evolve. “In recent years, tomato-based foods have Chui. “The baked tomato pork chop is an old-

school signature for a cha chaan teng, it’s a big

colour and aromatics,” says Chan. “By the time represents how Hong Kong food should be.”

tomato pork chop with rice and cheese on top.”

Desserts and drinks comprise a big part of the

the prized wonton noodle soup requiring

Café’s Hong Kong-style French toast has always

Noodles are ever-present at Sun Ming, with

the right type for the job. “You get really big

wontons with lots of meat and a big chunk of

prawn inside,” says Chan. “The noodles are like

an angel hair noodle, which we don’t make here in Australia. We have a supplier that does egg

noodles, but they’re slightly on the thicker side.

menu at a typical cha chaan teng, and Kowloon been a top seller. The dessert uses thick slices of white bread sandwiched together with peanut butter before it’s deep-fried and topped with

butter and condensed milk. “We use nearly three

pieces of bread to do our French toast,” says Chui.

The venue uses thicker slices for the dish.

In Hong Kong, they’re very thin, light and airy.”

“One of our friends owns a bakery and we tell

When talking about Hong Kong cooking, wok

people store it for one week, but we get it

hei is essential, which translates to ‘breath of

the wok’. “We get the wok really hot and coat it

them the size we want,” says Chui. “Normally, delivered every two days so it’s fresh.”

Tea is served with any meal, and there’s a vast

with oil,” says Chan. “Then we add the noodles

selection to choose from covering lemon teas to

passes onto the food because of the extreme

which is used as the foundation for the venue’s

or another ingredient and the cast-iron flavour

heat. You can actually smell the char and the raw elements imparting the charcoal-ness. Because

of the high pressure of our workstations, a wok only lasts for two weeks and then we throw it out because it has a hole in it.”

The method is applied to a beef and stir-fried

noodle dish. “It’s a rice noodle stir fried with 34 | Hospitality

milk teas. Chan imports his tea from Hong Kong drink selection. “If someone wants a lemon iced tea, we use it as the base,” he says. “For milk

tea, we just add a little bit of Carnation milk and sugar syrup.”

Other tea options at a cha chaan teng include

si wa nai cha or stocking milk tea where the

brew is transferred multiple times through a silk

“Before, there were all these Szechuan hotpot places, but Hong Kong food is in right now.”

– David Chan

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FEATURE // Hong Kong cuisine

stocking-like filter. But at Sun Ming, yuenyeung

is a staple beverage. “It means ‘half half’ and it’s

half coffee, half tea,” says Chan. “It’s very similar

Outside of Hong Kong, cha chaan tengs are

As described by Chui, a cha chaan teng’s

but the concept has also made its way to

Affordability and convenience are considered key pillars of the concept. “Hong Kong is a

very fast-paced city,” says Chui. “Because of the pace, the food has to come fast and you can’t wait too long.”

Variety is also of the utmost importance; a

large menu with plenty of options is part of tea restaurant

the allure of a cha chaan teng or street stall.

“One of the things is variety, which is weird

because in the restaurant business, everyone’s

Kowloon Café make soy and XO sauces in-house

Sun Ming sells a wonton and beef brisket noodle soup combo

36 | Hospitality

Britain, Canada, and of course, Australia.

For Chui, it’s about carrying on tradition and culture while also putting a fresh spin on it.

“We opened Kowloon Café because my friends and I always go back to Hong Kong and there is food we miss,” he says. “We still have little

bits and pieces of the Hong Kong culture, but I want to make sure people come in and go,

‘We are here to eat cha chaan teng food with a high standard’.”

Hong Kong cuisine has settled into the local

food landscape, and customers are paying plenty

things because it makes it easier. I’ve probably

different phases of things that come through,”

got more than 80 items on my menu. But if I

invented in 1952

prevalent in Macau and parts of Guandong,

shortening their menus,” says Chan. “You’d

rather do something well than have a lot of

Yuenyeung was

used to.”

to an Italian macchiato.”

offering “has to be tasty, cheap and fast”.

Cha chaan teng means

very hard to take away dishes customers are

take one thing off, my customers are like, ‘Why did you take that off? I’d like to eat that’. It’s

of attention. “In terms of food, there’s always says Chan. “Before, there were all these

Szechuan hotpot places, but Hong Kong food is in right now.” ■

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FEATURE // Ones to watch

Three of a kind Highly anticipated venues that have been worth the wait.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros

THE PAST TWO years has seen the industry battle a host of hurdles, but it also provided a window of opportunity for operators to develop concepts for a post-pandemic future. And it looks like we have well and truly arrived at that point in time, with a raft of venues opening across the country that are raising the bar in a big way.

From chefs launching their first restaurants to mega distilleries and all-in-one venues, here are three concepts we’re warmly welcoming to the dining and drinking scene.

Four Pillars Distillery 2.0 Four Pillars has been steadily expanding from its Healesville location to an adjacent site on Lilydale Road over the past year, creating the ultimate distillery destination in Victoria.

Distillery 2.0 sees an expanded distillery, gin garden, retail outlet and hospitality experience for 300 guests. “When we began making Four Pillars, the Yarra Valley was always intended to be our home, and when we found our original site, we couldn’t believe our luck,” says Four Pillars Co-Founder Cameron Mackenzie. “When the opportunity came to buy the land next door, we simply had no choice but to roll the dice and back our Yarra Valley dream to the hilt.”

Chef Matt Wilkinson is spearheading the food offering at the new hub, which revolves around snacks made with local products and Four Pillars botanicals, too. Guests can expect duck liver pâté with Bloody Shiraz gin jelly; Olive Leaf gin-cured salmon and gin-laced potato, zucchini and dill croquettes. A weekend Tuck Shop will launch later this year, with guest chefs slated to appear for special collabs.

Gin tasting paddles showcase Four Pillars’ ever-expanding line up of spirits, with guests able to book gin masterclasses and gin-making sessions with the team. The bar is serving classic gin cocktails as well as a revolving list of specials.

Four Pillars is on track to become the largest gin-centric distillery in Australia, with a fifth copper still set to arrive from Germany at the end of 2022.

40 | Hospitality

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FEATURE // Ones to watch

Viand Chef Annita Potter has opened her first restaurant in Sydney’s Woolloomooloo after nearly two decades in the kitchen. Potter began her career in Perth, later cooking across France and Thailand before joining David Thompson’s brigade at Nahm in London.

The chef spent time in Thailand at Thompson’s company, working on projects that took her to Cambodia, Vietnam, Hong Kong and Singapore where she launched Long Chim. Potter found herself back in Sydney in 2020, which saw her open a trial pop-up of Viand at the Mint that ran until early 2021. Now, she has found a permanent home for Viand on the corner of Crown and Cathedral Streets.

While Potter has spent a considerable amount of time in the kitchen exploring Thai food, the chef says Viand doesn’t revolve around a singular cuisine. “Viand is an archaic word for assortment of foods, which for me, is a perfect description for what I believe Thai food is,” says the chef. “I purposely chose something without Thai connotations. A food concept of its own, not specific to any cuisine … At the end of the day, I am a chef who cooks and produces an assortment of food, and hopefully ... my concept ... will grow into other cuisines and assortments.”

Debut dishes include crispy noodles with Balmain bugs, coriander and yellow beans; salted duck egg relish with scampi and sticky aged pork; jungle curry with king prawns, and braised monkfish with pickled plums and Asian celery. There is also a vegan tasting menu for those who want a plant-based dining experience.

On the beverage front, premium wines are available by the glass or bottle alongside a curated tisane and tea offering.

The Continental Sorrento Chef and Restaurateur Scott Pickett has been steadily increasing his Melbourne presence over the years, and his collaboration with the iconic Continental Sorrento Hotel is set to be one of the biggest projects for Pickett and Co yet.

Pickett first announced he was teaming up with Publican Craig Shearer in August last year to create multiple food and beverage concepts within the hotel, which has now undergone a revamp. “After an extensive build and many months of planning, we are delighted to be lifting the curtain on what we believe will be one of Australia’s premier coastal destinations for travel and gourmet experiences,” says Pickett.

Concepts include Audrey’s, Barlow, The Conti, Atrium, Coppins Lounge and Pool Deck, with each opening in stages. Signature restaurant Audrey’s was the first to debut and sees a culinary focus on seafood and produce sourced from the Mornington Peninsula.

The Conti is an umbrella for three venues including the Public Bar, the Beer Garden and the Promenade; an outdoor dining space serving classic pub dishes. Guests and visitors can pop into Coppins Lounge in the lobby or head to speakeasy bar Barlow, with both serving up snacks and expertly curated cocktails by Speakeasy Group.

“Having spent 20 years in the industry, I can say this project has been the most rewarding so far and not a single detail has been overlooked in bringing this icon back to its former glory,” says Shearer.

42 | Hospitality

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FEATURE // Ravioli

44 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Ravioli

Pass the parcel Ravioli has been around for centuries, but it’s still as relevant as ever.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY Simon Schiff for Pasta Poetry

A LETTER PENNED by an Italian merchant

ravioli almost every day. You learn from your

herbs, egg and fresh cheese served in a simmered

passionate about.”

related a dish of pasta packed with minced green

broth dusted with spices. The 14th century record

mum or nonna and it’s something we’re very

Trattoria Emilia’s current ravioli dish sees a

“The tradition says you should be able to see your

describes what we now know as ravioli.

ricotta and goat’s cheese option served with

hand behind it,

spinach or meat, served in a cheese-rich sauce

first, the dough. Rota begins the process with

that’s how thin you

Ravioli can be square or circular, filled with

or simmered in a light broth — and that’s just scratching the surface. While shapes such as

mafaldine and cavatelli are commonplace on

menus, there’s something to be said for a classic.

Hospitality speaks to Trattoria Emilia’s

Francesco Rota and Pasta Poetry’s Elena

Kavallarisa about the dough-making process, goto fillings and sauce options along with tips and tricks to ensure every ravioli makes it from the pan to the plate.

Ravioli has suffered somewhat of a tarnished

reputation over the years, with subpar iterations seeing thick, chewy morsels of pasta overfilled with too many ingredients. It’s a huge stretch from the way ravioli is enjoyed in Italy.

Francesco Rota is from Modena in the Emilia-

Romagna region, which is known for its balsamic

tomato reduction, rocket pesto and chilli. But semolina and flour imported from Italy. “When you open the bag of flour, you get the smell of the grains straight away and it gives a three-

Molino Pasini and Petra flours, which have less

water content. We try to avoid changing brands because then you have to tweak the recipe.”

The kitchen team combine 600g 00 flour and

400g fine semolina with 10 free-range egg yolks and five whole eggs in a planetary mixer. “The eggs are mixed beforehand and then we add

them slowly to pull the flour together,” says Rota.

“Once it’s just combined and crumbly, we put the dough in a cryovac machine. If you overwork it,

the dough becomes a pale-yellow colour and will retract when you roll it. This pasta is nice and bright and will last two to three days.”

Rota and his team rely on experience rather

than a specific number on the pasta machine

Trattoria Emilia. “In the north of Italy, fresh pasta

the markers of pasta from the Emilia-Romagna

is in our blood; we eat it all the time,” he says.

“You see people making lasagne, tagliatelle or

– Francesco Rota

dimensional flavour,” says the chef. “We use

vinegar and pasta, with the chef championing both elements at his Melbourne restaurant

want it to be.”

when it comes to rolling out the dough. One of region is its thinness. “My guys always ask about the number, and I say, ‘It doesn’t matter which

April 2022 | 45

FEATURE // Ravioli number, every machine is different’,” says Rota.

Poetry’s dough, with the team using a bespoke

to be. You also need it to be thin because when

person using a fork, just as you would at home.

your hand behind it, that’s how thin you want it Eggplant Pasta rollers

ravioli is one

are used to

of Pasta

create

Poetry’s non-

different

conventional

shapes

options

you fold it, you have two pieces of pasta together and it is harder to cook it all the way through if it’s too thick. It carries the filling just enough to get it from the fork to your mouth.”

Melbourne’s Pasta Poetry has become a hub for

all things pasta, with Head Chef Elena Kavallarisa learning the art of pasta-making during a threemonth stint in Bologna. Ravioli is one of the venue’s top sellers and fast became a crowd Emilia

Beetroot is

Trattoria use

used to

chestnut flour

colour pasta

in winter

dough

favourite. “You can make tiny raviolis or big

raviolos and get a nice, generous filling in there,”

piece of machinery from Italy that emulates a “We have a 120-litre fork mixer that uses the

same method,” says the chef. “It has two phases, and it doesn’t heat up the dough.”

Once the dough is kneaded, it’s portioned out

into balls and left to rest for 30 minutes. “During

that time, the bright colour comes through,” says

Kavallarisa. “For ravioli, we sheet it at 0.3 on our robo-sheeter; it ends up being a 1.2-metre-long

sheet of pasta. Ravioli is a lot thinner because of the double layer. It takes a while to roll it out; you need to have some patience.”

says Kavallarisa. “They’re very versatile.”

The way in which a pasta sheet is cut comes

and ricotta along with a more non-traditional

current ravioli dish sees the pasta cut into

Pasta Poetry’s ravioli offering covers spinach

filling inspired by eggplant parmigiana. “The eggplant is crumbed in panko and soaked in

sugo,” says Kavallarisa. “There’s burrata and fresh mint as well. It’s been flying off the shelves.”

The chef sticks with a uniform dough recipe

for Pasta Poetry’s range, using Ben Furney Flour

Mills’ product which is made from grains sourced within 200km of the mill in Dubbo’s Macquarie Valley. “We did a lot of testing with different flours and flours from Italy, and we found

there wasn’t too much of a difference,” says

Kavallarisa. “We want to support local businesses and most of our products are Australian.”

46 | Hospitality

Flour and eggs are the only ingredients in Pasta

“The tradition says you should be able to see

down to the desired end shape. Trattoria Emilia’s circles, with agnolotti — another stuffed pasta — cut into squares. Pasta Poetry has bespoke cutters that allow the team to eliminate the

laborious task of individually cutting each shape out. “We have round standard cutters, but we

also have custom rolling pin cutters with blades underneath,” says Kavallarisa. “As you roll,

you cut three to four strips at a time and you

have squares in a few seconds. It results in less wastage as well.”

Once the ravioli has been cut, it’s time to

move on to the all-important interior. Everything from the dough to the pasta filling is weighed

ITALIAN

EXCELLENCE

OF ORIGI

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•

OTECTED PR

SIGNATIO

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•

FEATURE // Ravioli

by Trattoria Emilia’s chefs, who pay close attention to sealing the

morsels properly. “You push all the air bubbles out with the bottom

of your hand and close the dough with the tip of a knife,” says Rota.

“Then we put them on a tray with some semolina to dry out a little bit. The most important thing is having enough filling; the second

most important thing is having no air pockets when you fold them because they will explode in the boiling water.”

Kavallarisa recommends chefs leave two fingers between the

stuffing and the edge of the pasta to achieve the right ratio. “You want to balance the pasta with the filling,” she says. “If it’s an

intense filling, you don’t want to put too much in there, and if you overpack it, it will open up and explode.”

The chef keeps a spray bottle filled with water close by to help

the dough adhere together. “You need to make sure all the edges

are as compact as possible and you’re getting all the air out,” says

Kavallarisa. “If there’s air in it, it will float to the top straight away.

It should sink when you put it in and float up when it’s cooked.”

“In Italy, it’s kept simple with a butter sauce and maybe some truffle shaved over the top.”

– Elena Kavallarisa While ravioli fillings vary considerably, the cooking time is

determined by the dough rather than what’s inside. “Because it’s fresh pasta, it takes between five and seven minutes,” says Rota.

“It’s more about cooking the pasta right; you want it to be soft with a melting filling.”

Kavallarisa cooks Pasta Poetry’s ravioli for around four minutes. “It

comes down to how much filling is inside,” says the chef. “We have a

crab and scallop agnolotti, which is pretty much a square ravioli, that takes longer. You want to make sure the centre isn’t cold. When you finish it off with the sauce, it completes the cooking process.”

The interior of ravioli is arguably the star of the eating experience, but sauce still plays a pivotal role. In Italy, it’s a matter of less is

more. “Modena’s most classic option is nutmeg, parmesan, ricotta and spinach ravioli served with melted butter and sage,” says

Rota. “We usually toss the pasta through melted butter and then

add parmesan. Or, you can boil some cream and add ParmigianoReggiano and Grana Padano.

“In the South of Italy, they use tomatoes; in Sardinia, they use a

lot of mint and saffron; in Tuscany, they do butter, rosemary and poppy seeds and if you go to Liguria, they use a lot of pesto.”

Kavallarisa also tips butter and sage “with a tonne of cheese”

as one of the most-loved sauce options. “We have a parmesan and egg-based sauce, too, but you want to keep it subtle as the hero

is the filling,” says the chef. “The way we eat ravioli here is very intense with a lot of ingredients. In Italy, it’s kept simple with a butter sauce and maybe some truffle shaved over the top.”

The final part of the ravioli process is plating, and of course,

eating. “When it comes to plating, we like it to look rustic and

casual, almost like your nonna did it,” says Rota. “It looks simple, but there’s a lot of research and technique behind it.” ■ 48 | Hospitality

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Serving Suggestion

EVENT PROGRAM 8:30am – 9:30am

REGISTRATIONS OPEN

9:30am – 9:35am

Welcome and Opening Tawnya Bahr, Straight to the Source and Anna Pavoni, Ormeggio

9:35am – 10:35am

Keynote Presentation: Building a Sustainable Future Dianne McGrath

10:35am – 11:05am

Survive and Thrive: How to appeal to multiple markets Illa Kim, Soul Dining & Soul Deli; Justin Newton, House Made Hospitality; Joanne Sproule, Public Hospitality; Matt Swieboda, Love Tilly Group

11:05am – 11:15am

Partner presentation: Stoddart Australia presents the latest in foodservice equipment

11:15am – 11:45am

MORNING TEA

11:45am – 12:00pm

Tackling the Talent Shortage: Solutions to attract and retain staff Luke Butler, Hastings People

12:00pm – 12:15pm

The 24-Hour Economy: How Sydney is bring brought back to life Michael Rodrigues, 24 Hour Economy Commissioner and Elliot Solomon, Solotel

12:15pm – 12:45pm

Tech, Please! Make ordering, delivery and booking platforms work for your business James Walmsley, TheFork; Julian Cincotta, Butter; Bec Nyst, Uber Eats; John Saadie, Order Up!

12:45pm – 1:05pm

Capitalising on Domestic Tourism Susannah George, The Urban List

1:05pm – 1:15pm

Partner Presentation: day seven will showcase the lastest in hospo uniforms

1:15pm – 2:15pm

LUNCH

2:15pm – 2:35pm

Wellness at Work: A mental health toolkit for the industry Scott Bidmead, Euda

2:35pm – 3:05pm

Branding, Social Media and Photography 101: A masterclass with four professionals Tom ‘Tj’ Edwards, 1oh1 Media; Kitti Gould, Photographer; Naomi Ross (Distil Agency)

3:05pm – 3:15pm

Partner Presentation: Nestle Professional presents the latest trends in plant based and gluten free

3:15pm – 3:45pm

2022 Trends: The latest on sustainability, beverage trends, staffing and expansion Nathan Dalah, The Fishbowl Group; Qwan Ling Chew, Merivale; Martin Hudak, Maybe Sammy; Gary Smith, BioPak

3:45pm – 3:55pm

Partner presentation: Lyres presents the rise in non-alcoholic beverages in the market

3:55pm – 4:00pm

Closing remarks: Tawnya Bahr; Anna Pavoni

4:00pm – 5:30pm

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FEATURE // Bún bò Huế

52 | Hospitality

FEATURE // Bún bò Huế

In the bowl There are multiple stages involved in making bún bò Huế — Banh Xeo Bar’s Tania Ho breaks down the rice noodle soup.

WORDS Aristine Dobson BÚN BÒ HUẾ is a traditional noodle

Although there are fundamental aspects

makes the broth not as heavy with more of

soup that originates from Huế in central

of the dish, there is more than one way

city is known for its ancient royal court

who is making it. “The style we have is

beef cuts from a local butcher. “We have

cooks it,” says Ho. “She’s from the south of

animals and cuts them down,” says Ho.

Vietnam. The nation’s former capital cooking style, which involves robust flavours, colourful presentation and

optimal seasoning — key markers found in bún bò Huế.

Today, the noodle soup is served all over

to make it and recipes vary depending on more reflective of my mum’s and how she

Vietnam, so her flavours are much stronger

and she uses fresh ingredients for balance.”

a sweet flavour.”

Banh Xeo Bar sources a combination of

a Vietnamese butcher who buys whole

“We put in a mixture of beef marrow bones and grass-fed beef bones.”

Before the bones are boiled down,

Vietnam and is a firm local favourite, with

they are placed in the oven to develop

in different regions. While the dish is not

Chef Ben Sinfield has applied to the recipe.

different styles and interpretations found

complexity, a spin Co-Owner and Head

as ubiquitous as pho here in Australia,

“He decided to roast the bones to deepen

Banh Xeo Bar Co-Owner Tania Ho is out to

and intensify the flavour of the beef stock,”

prove it can bring just as much satisfaction

says Ho. “The bones are roasted at a high

to diners as its counterpart.

temperature for around 40 to 50 minutes so

Ho talks to Hospitality about the

they caramelise. “Then we get fresh ginger

foundations of bún bò Huế’s broth, why

and onions and char them in the oven, too.”

you can’t just use any noodles and its

The ingredients are added to a large

trademark seasoning mix.

stock pot of water with a generous amount

Bún bò Huế is one of the staple dishes

bark, palm sugar and fish sauce. “It’s all

of lemongrass, star anise, cinnamon, cassia

served at Sydney’s Banh Xeo Bar, which

thrown in the pot, covered with water,

started off as a market stall before it opened a permanent location in

Rosebery. “Bún bò was the second dish we

introduced at the markets, and it was such a hit that it’s been on since then,” says Ho.

“I think one of the main reasons is because the flavour is so different to pho; it has

its own beautiful characteristics people

simmered and brought up to the boil before

“With Vietnamese cooking, there’s always a balance of flavours and freshness.”

– Tania Ho

it’s simmered [again] overnight for at

least 14 to 16 hours,” says Ho. “Then we

strain everything out and we’re left with a

beautiful beefy stock for the day. We cook a 100-litre pot at a time and that’s done two to three times a week now.”

A special seasoning combo is then

enjoyed and really took to.”

The process of bún bò Huế starts with the

added to the stock to finish the broth. “You

Huế comprises three crucial elements:

begin with a pork-based stock, Banh Xeo

powder, annatto seeds and a little bit of

Like most other noodle soups, bún bò

broth, noodles and toppings. “There’s a lot of lemongrass in the stock,” says Ho. “It’s traditionally quite spicy as well. You can

add lots of chilli, so it can be like a spicy beef noodle soup.”

broth. While some traditional iterations

Bar opts for beef and bone marrow instead, resulting in a complex foundation. “Other

recipes use a mixture of pork stock and my mum uses pork bones sometimes as well,”

says Ho. “You can use pork trotters and that

need to add a seasoning made of paprika chilli,” says Ho. “We mix it into the broth

and it gives it a red, glossy tinge. You can add more lemongrass and chilli as well if you like.”

April 2022 | 53

FEATURE // Bún bò Huế Noodles are a core component of the soup. “The noodles are different; they’re still a rice noodle, but more of a round, thick vermicelli that looks

bún bò Hu ế

Bún bò means

is $22.50 at

beef noodles

Banh Xeo Bar

in Vietnamese

pho, the noodles are more silky and are flatter

order a combination version where the dish is

and softer.”

The restaurant relies on Vietnamese grocers

to source noodles. For bún bò Huế, there are no are different styles of vermicelli and various

shapes used in Vietnamese cooking,” says Ho. Bún bò Hu ế is

recommends

usually served

using 10 sticks

with chả lụa

of lemongrass

and pig’s blood

per litre

jelly

of broth

“There’s certain types of noodles you use for

for maximum flavour. In addition, diners can

topped with roast pork shoulder, crispy beef and pig’s head nuggets. “The bún bò Huế we have is just beef, but there’s an upgrade where we

add pork,” says Ho. “It’s kind of our take on a

combination-style noodle soup where you can have variety and different cuts of meat.”

Typically, a noodle soup is served with an

particular dishes, and it’s the same for bún bò

array of herbs, vegetables and slices of lime

busy at the restaurant and we’ve sold out of the

often accompanied by bean sprouts, Thai basil,

Huế. We have had times where we’ve been quite noodles, but you can’t just replace them with something else.”

The thick, cylindrical noodles provide balance

to the dish and ensure harmony inside the bowl.

“The soup itself is quite bold and punchy,” says Ho. “The complexity of all the flavours come

together and it can be quite [hot] with the spices, so having really nice thick noodles balances

or lemon. Bún bò Huế is no exception and is

mint, coriander and citrus. “With Vietnamese cooking, there’s always a balance of flavours and freshness,” says Ho. “We always try to

incorporate fresh herbs and salad into dishes as

well. We add freshly shaved cabbage and a herb mix with coriander, spring onion, thinly sliced onion and Thai basil on top of the soup.”

everything out and brings it all together.”

Bún bò Huế has special significance within

Marinated beef slices are generally added to

of the people who make it across the world. “It’s

bún bò Huế, providing additional texture and

flavour along with a protein boost. Throughout Vietnam, other toppings include oxtail, pork knuckles or slices of chả lụa — a traditional Vietnamese pork sausage. “In terms of the

meat served in bún bò Huế, it can be more of a mixture, so pork hocks, beef tendon, beef flank 54 | Hospitality

Beef brisket is the main topper on Banh Xeo

Bar’s version, which is cooked in the broth

substitutes for thick vermicelli noodles. “There

Ho

says Ho.

like spaghetti,” says Ho. “There’s a different

texture in the noodle and it’s a bit bouncier. In

Combination

or beef brisket sliced up as well as blood jelly,”

Vietnamese cuisine, and the soup is a reflection one of those dishes where everyone’s recipe is

different,” says Ho. “If someone comes and tries your bún bò and they ask how you made it or what you added to make it taste different, it

becomes a talking point and a way in which you

can share — not only through food, but through the love of the dish itself.” ■

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EQUIPMENT // Cast-iron skillet

Cast-iron skillet The sturdy pan has serious staying power in busy kitchen environments.

Some pans require oiling to generate

Used for stovetop

non-stick properties

cooking and in

Prices range

the oven

from $30 to $200

Models can come with an extra handle for ease of lifting

Easy to clean with water

Average weight is 2–5kg Has a long lifespan and Manufacturers sell

is built to last

pans made of

generations

pre-seasoned cast iron Ideal for searing,

56 | Hospitality

Maintains

sautéing, roasting or

heat for a long

pan-frying proteins

period of time

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5 MINUTES WITH ... // Eleonore Wulf

Eleonore Wulf Aalia’s head sommelier on championing Middle Eastern winemakers.

I DISTINCTLY REMEMBER ordering my

and wine pairing capacity, but I believe

on the Hill in the UK circa 2017. My first

alongside food.

first bottle of Chateau Musar in Horndon introduction to Lebanon’s smoky, savoury

these wines really shine when not enjoyed

mountainous wine-growing regions of the

While many may consider skin contact

to the ocean, the climates are continental

and almost chewy style of Cabernets

and minimal intervention to be the latest

and challenged my perceptions of a

has continued to be practised in the Middle

opened my eyes up to the Middle East region I assumed was just an arid desert climate.

I was always open to the idea of

exploring the region more, but there

weren’t many examples I could find in Australia until I began researching for

Aalia’s wine list. There was a little digging required to find suppliers importing goodquality Middle Eastern wines into Sydney.

The wines of the Middle East,

particularly the indigenous grape varieties, tend to be more savoury and textural than what the Australian palate is accustomed to. Despite this, most lists that feature

Middle Eastern wines often do so in a food 58 | Hospitality

The amazing benefit of the often-

trend, it’s a ‘return to roots’ concept that

East. Some of the first mentions of wine can be traced back to Georgia in 6000BC and Iran in 5000BC.

The wines of the Middle East, particularly the indigenous grape varieties, tend to be more savoury and textural.

Middle East is that despite the proximity

and are characterised by hot, dry summers and cold, snowy winters. The aspect,

terroir and altitude of vineyards and the warm breezes that sweep the continents also contribute to relatively low disease pressure. From a grower’s perspective,

viticulturalists can readily practise organic vineyard techniques.

I recommend guests at Aalia taste

some of the incredible Middle Eastern

wines we have to offer. Whether they are

looking for something more classic (Alain Graillot ‘Syrocco’ Syrah, Morocco); light and perfumed (Doluca ‘Tugra’ Kalecik Karasi, Turkey) or a little left of field

(Mersel ‘Leb Nat’ Pét-Nat, Lebanon), there is something to start you on your Middle Eastern journey. ■

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