Hospitality April 2021

NO.771 APRIL 2021

PASTA • GROWER CHAMPAGNE • MILK ALTERNATIVES • SOUL DINING + SOUL DELI

CONTENTS // April

Contents APRIL 2021

22

Regulars 6 // IN FOCUS The Migrant Resource Centre Tasmania is providing opportunity to workers and the dining public alike.

8 // NEWS The latest openings, books, products and more.

10 // PRODUCE Jackfruit has plenty of potential just waiting to be unlocked.

14 // BEST PRACTICE Dreams don’t always align with reality — some tips to push past opening hurdles.

2 | Hospitality

30

16 // DRINKS Grower Champagne is making waves in the local market.

22 // PROFILE Soul Dining and Soul Deli are redefining Korean cuisine in Sydney.

36 // BEHIND THE SCENES Matteo Downtown’s beef tartare on brioche.

48 // EQUIPMENT Create uniform gnocchi with a wooden board.

50 // 5 MINUTES WITH …

Alejandro Saravia from Farmer’s Daughters.

26

Features 26 // WOODCUT The restaurant’s commitment to working with artisans is nothing short of awe-inspiring.

30 // PASTA Two chefs on nailing the basics.

36 // MILK ALTERNATIVES Get the lowdown on everything from soy to almond and oat milks.

42 // KITCHEN HYGIENE Maintain a safe environment for customers and staff.

MAGGI MAKES

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Serving Suggestion

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EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello

Social

Keep up with the Hospitality team

CHEERS TO THAT Check out our Sbagliato masterclass with Glorietta on our IGTV. @hospitalitymagazine

All in the details I DON’T KNOW about you, but I always find

vases. Collaborating with makers has

myself lifting up plates and glasses to seek

always been at the crux of Ross and Sunny’s

out the maker’s name when I dine out. While

restaurants, and they simply couldn’t do it

food and drink form an experience, it’s the

any other way.

little things like a perfectly imperfect bowl

This issue, we also cover milk alternatives

or a hand-carved steak knife that form

and what to look for when selecting a new

a journey.

product; go back to pasta-making basics;

Woodcut by Ross and Sunny Lusted opened

explore the versatility of jackfruit and talk to

its doors in Crown Sydney last year, and

Alejandro Saravia about opening Farmer’s

the restaurant is brimming with work from

Daughters in Melbourne, which heroes

Australian artists and artisans. The steel walls

Gippsland producers.

are made by the same man who crafted the

SNACK ATTACK Farewelling the warmer weather with a plate of tomatoes at Hotel Centennial — and a flatbread and prawns for good measure. @annabellecloros

I hope you enjoy this issue.

‘bricks’ for the kitchen’s signature chicken dish, and a chance encounter on Instagram

Annabelle Cloros

led to Penelope Duke producing bespoke

Editor

DYNAMIC DUOS Darren Robertson is hosting monthly events at Oma Food & Wine with chefs including Luke Powell, Alana Sapwell and Casey Wall. @hospitalitymagazine

Follow us @hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au JOURNALIST Kirsty Sier T: 02 8586 6194 ksier@intermedia.com.au

ADVERTISING NATIONAL Simon York T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 syork@intermedia.com.au GRAPHIC DESIGNER Ryan Vizcarra ryanv@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au

CIRCULATIONS subscriptions@intermedia.com.au To subscribe please call 1800 651 422. hospitalitymagazine.com.au facebook.com/ HospitalityMagazine twitter.com/Hospitalityed instagram.com/hospitalitymag

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4 | Hospitality

IN FOCUS // Migrant Resource Centre Tasmania

The good kitchen Migrant Resource Centre Tasmania gives migrants and refugees experience in a commercial kitchen and the opportunity to share their dishes with the public.

WORDS Kirsty Sier PHOTOGRAPHY Migrant Resource Centre Tasmania

IF YOU WERE travelling through

experience and training to

The intersection between

sparks ideas for a new dish,

East Africa, you might find

people from migrant and

migrant support services and

and often we have a large

yourself eating kitcha fit-fit

refugee backgrounds.

community enrichment really

donation of fresh produce

shines in the MRC Tas kitchen.

from Government House

for breakfast. In Eritrea, the

Founded in 1979, the not-

traditional dish is made from

for-profit organisation was

Participants in the program

Tasmania or a private garden

leftover kitcha — unleavened

established in response to a

come from a wide variety of

to use,” says Food Manager

flatbread made from flour,

need for services that assisted

backgrounds, bringing an array

Megan Quill, who co-owned

water and salt — that is

new and existing migrants with

of cooking traditions. Most have

and operated Tricycle café in

shredded, fried with clarified

the process of settlement in

extensive cooking experience,

Salamanca Place. “The team

butter and spices and served

Australia. Today, the centre

but the MRC Tas kitchen aims

works together to decide which

with plain yoghurt for dipping.

empowers migrants and

to expose participants to daily

dishes or pickles to make with

It’s one of the dishes you

refugees to live fulfilling lives in

life in a commercial Australian

the produce.”

might expect to come out of

Tasmania through an extensive

kitchen and give them the

the kitchen at Migrant Resource

range of services and projects,

chance to serve their food to

shape the menu at MRC Tas,

Centre Tasmania (MRC Tas), a

such as employment support

the community.

which changes on a week-

Hobart-based social enterprise

and life skills programs.

project that provides work 6 | Hospitality

“Each week, our casual staff bring in dishes to share, which

It is the participants who

by-week basis. The menu is announced via the centre’s

Facebook and Instagram pages

cheese and silverbeet fritters

each Wednesday, with the

and basboussah, a walnut and

kitchen opening to the public

semolina cake with rose syrup.

between 9:30am and 2:30pm Wednesday to Friday.

“We have some dishes that

“We might need to roast some coffee on the stove Eritrean style, and we are always

may stay on the menu for

cooking injera [a fermented

a while but change slightly

flatbread common in East

according to the season,

Africa] and frying falafel fresh

while other dishes are brand

for lunch service,” says Quill.

new,” says Quill. “New work

The commercial kitchen

experience participants may

experience extends to the

contribute an idea after being

catering service that is also

asked what their favourite food

offered by MRC Tas. To date,

is or what they cook for their

the team has catered to a wide

family. When we are finalising

variety of events — one of their

what the final dish will taste

first jobs was cooking soup for

of the migrant and refugee

and delighted to discover new

like we ask, ‘What would your

600 attendees of the Australian

team members, many of whom

techniques and new ways of

grandma say?’ It is important

Ceramics Triennale. They have

aspire to open their own small

cooking with local ingredients.

the dishes are authentic as well

also been contracted to cater

businesses or restaurants

“Participants in the program

as delicious.”

Dark Mofo’s ideas festival,

after graduating from the

have benefitted in a variety of

Dark and Dangerous Thoughts,

kitchen program.

ways. The experience in the

Some of the recent menu items

and have held a series of

to have come out of the MRC

market stalls at Hobart’s Farm

the kitchen supervisors, learn

it is the sharing of traditional

Tas kitchen include momo,

Gate Market.

something new every day,”

recipes that creates a sense of

says Quill. “There is so much to

pride and helps create positive

Bhutanese steamed dumplings;

Part of the income generated

“The entire team, including

kitchen builds confidence, but

waakye, a Ghanaian dish of

from these activities is used

know about the world of food,

relationships between the cook

beans and rice; borek, Syrian

to further the cooking careers

and we are always surprised

and their guests.” ■ April 2021 | 7

IN FOCUS // Migrant Resource Centre Tasmania

“The experience in the kitchen builds confidence, but it is the sharing of traditional recipes that creates a sense of pride and helps create positive relationships between the cook and their guests.”

– Megan Quill

NEWS // Entrée

Entrée

The latest openings, books, events and more.

EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros

Momofuku Seiobo closes David Chang’s Momofuku Seiobo will bow out of the Sydney dining scene in the coming months. The acclaimed restaurant, led by General Manager Kylie Javier Ashton and Executive Chef Paul Carmichael, opened in The Star in 2011 and will serve its last guests on 26 June. The decision was made to end on a “high note” by Chang, Javier Ashton and Carmichael. “When our lease was up for renewal, we realised

Non expands zero-alcohol range

that the most sustainable thing we could do was to finish our time on

Melbourne-based beverage company Non has added a new addition

top,” Javier Ashton posted on Instagram. Seiobo is fully booked, so it’s

to its core range. Non #6 combines flavours of tomato water, roasted

worth joining the cancellations list. seiobo.momofuku.com

red pepper, coriander seed, celery seed, fresh basil and nutritional yeast. The beverage is aimed at Bloody Mary fans and has been designed to pair with food from herb-heavy cuisines to salty fishes and punchy cheeses. #6 is now available from boutique wine stores or from non.world

50,000 years on a plate Australia: The Cookbook Ross Dobson Phaidon; $65 Food writer, chef and food stylist Ross Dobson has curated a book that celebrates Australia’s diverse culinary influences and traditions. Australia: The Cookbook spans the many cuisines that make up our local landscape

First Love Coffee arrives in Melbourne’s CBD

alongside 350 recipes from chefs

The team behind Rustica have launched a coffee bar on Collins

including Mark Olive, O Tama Carey and Dan Hunter. Readers

Street. First Love Coffee has been designed for standing room only,

can try their hand at everything from stir-fried native greens to

with diners encouraged to sip their coffee and sample a pastry

Thai kangaroo salad and red flowering eucalyptus ice cream. The

or take a dish to go. Menu items include a bacon and egg roll,

book also contains an essay from Jody Orcher, a Ularai Barkandji

sandwiches made with Rustica’s sourdough and a miso cauliflower

woman from Brewarrina, which covers Indigenous Australian

and quinoa salad, to name a few. First Love is brewing a house blend

native bushfoods and the importance of acknowledging and

and also has a retail coffee offering that champions single-origin

respecting Aboriginal culture and traditions. phaidon.com

beans from Brazil, Nicaragua and Ethiopia. firstlovecoffee.com.au Photography by Rebecca Newman

8 | Hospitality

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PRODUCE // Jackfruit

Jackfruit

The largest fruit tree in the world packs a serious punch when it comes to versatility.

Jackfruit is at its

Canned jackfruit is

sweetest once it turns

relatively easy to find

brown in colour

in Australia

Skin is composed of tiny Coat knives, hands

individual flowers that

and work surfaces with

form blunt spikes

vegetable oil to prevent jackfruit sap from adhering

Commonly used as a

Typically weighs

meat substitute

around 16kg

Origins

bear fruit, once it does start producing, the

the variety of jackfruit, it will either remain firm

The jackfruit tree (Artocarpus heterophyllus)

annual yield typically sits in the 150–200 fruit

as it matures or become soft and custard-like.

hails from the mulberry family and is the more

range per tree.

famous cousin of breadfruit. It’s thought to

The fruit grows on the branches and

Culinary applications and storage

have originated in India, although the English-

the trunk of the jackfruit tree, but those on

Jackfruit makes an excellent meat substitute

language name jackfruit is believed to have

the trunk are preferable for harvest. The

and is capable of taking on different flavours

come from the Portuguese term ‘jaca’.

typical picking season runs from summer to

and textures, but pigeonholing it would

autumn, and requires harvesting from the

neglect its innate potential. The flesh can

to be the reason jackfruit trees can now be

tree itself. Once the fruit has fallen to the

be dried, roasted, added to soups, used in

found in some parts of the Caribbean and

ground, it means it has reached a state of

chips, jams, juices, ice cream and shredded to

North America. In 1792, a French ship carrying

over-ripeness.

resemble the texture of pulled pork. Its seeds

An early maritime trading mishap is thought

the fruit was captured and taken to Jamaica.

can be boiled, roasted or ground into flour.

Roughly 100 years later, the jackfruit tree

Flavour profile and appearance

made an appearance in southern Florida.

The largest tree fruit in the world, the typical

with a neutral flavour profile. Traditional uses

Jackfruit stands out as an example of a

A young, unripe jackfruit is firm and crunchy

jackfruit weighs in at around 16 kilograms,

at this stage include chopping it up finely to

food source that is highly prized in some parts

but is capable of reaching more than 50

add to punchy condiments such as sambal.

of the world and entirely overlooked in others.

kilograms. The trunks of the jackfruit tree can attain heights of around 25 metres.

Growth and harvest

As the fruit starts to ripen, it will retain a flavour profile comparable to potato or

The fruit itself has the appearance of an

cauliflower, but take on a softer texture. It is

Jackfruit trees thrive in humid–tropical to

oversized, spikey pear. It has a thick, rubbery,

most adaptable for use in savoury dishes at

sub-tropical climates. The crop is particularly

yellowish–green skin composed of hundreds

this point, with its texture capable of being

sensitive to cold and frost, and cannot abide

or thousands of tiny, individual flowers that

manipulated to either fall apart or retain

drought. Although the seedlings require a

assemble into short, blunt spikes that conceal

its form.

constant source of moisture to grow, they will

the edible flesh.

also rebel against too much wetness.

With the right conditions, jackfruit is a

Once opened, jackfruit has a distinctive, musky smell, and a flavour that can be likened

Only once jackfruit has ripened to maturity does it begin to take on a sweet taste, and is best enjoyed as is.

relatively easy crop to maintain. Once the tree

to Juicy Fruit gum. The musk aroma of the flesh

has been established, it requires little care.

can resemble anything from overripe fruit to

month at room temperature, while the cut fruit

The jackfruit tree is also a perennial, meaning

old socks.

can be stored in the fridge for a week, in the

it doesn’t require constant replanting.

Although a tree takes five to seven years to 10 | Hospitality

The edible portion of a young fruit has a slight crunch when you bite it. Depending on

A whole uncut jackfruit will last roughly one

freezer for two months or it can be canned and preserved in water. ■

ADVERTORIAL // RDM Pizza

Think outside the square Value and innovation coupled with Italian street food traditions is driving pizza menus.

IN REALITY, THERE’S nothing new about

and catering. “They are also perfect for to-

RDM’s products are made in Sydney using

square pizzas. They are an Italian staple on

go options in delis and cafés,” says Moretti.

local ingredients that support Aussie farmers.

the streets of Rome and are often sold as

“And dare we say it, with the functions

RDM don’t add any preservatives or additives

pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice) or pizza

industry returning across the country and

to their products and they are vegan-friendly.

al tracio (pizza by the cut). The square

increasing numbers at events, the call for

“Our products are made using traditional

shape makes it easier to cut and sell without

perceived-value menu items and maximising

techniques and a sourdough method, always

wastage and they are a good ‘grab and go’

bottom lines is growing every day,” he says.

using a ‘mother’ yeast,” says Moretti. It results

option for customers.

In Australia, restaurants and pizzerias have

Moretti has experienced the challenges

in RDM being able to utilise a marginal

the sector faces with all things pizza having

amount of yeast, resulting in a light and easy-

been offering one-metre pizzas or pizza al

spent years in pizza sections and consulting

to-digest product.

metro as a value offering that also wows

to the hospitality sector on improving

customers. There has been a perception

efficiencies and increasing revenue.

these pizzas were unachievable without a

Launching RDM Pizza Australia in 2015,

The dough is then naturally leavened and pre-fermented for 48 hours prior to stretching and snap-freezing. With 12

pizzaiolo, however RDM’s square bases allow

he set about providing solutions for the

months freezer life, the bases last up to

any venue to add the squares together and

market, disrupting what was on offer and

two weeks in a cool room, making inventory

form a metre (or longer) pizza.

manufacturing traditional pizza bases and

and stock control a greater efficiency,

dough for the foodservice market.

with only 20 minutes needed to defrost

“We’ve experienced a significant uplift in our square base sales, which we believe

RDM pizza bases have been designed in

before preparation. “The pizza bases cook

has been fuelled by the current climate with

such a way that venues can achieve a high-

almost twice as fast as other brands on the

venues and customers seeking innovation

end pizzaiolo result without an experienced

market, cooking in under three minutes,”

and fun in the wake of 2020,” says Riccardo

pizza chef. Combined with the variety of

says Moretti.

Moretti, founder of RDM Pizza Australia.

sizes on offer, the bases are ideal for various

There are many benefits to using square bases and they are well–suited to functions 12 | Hospitality

You can contact the team at RDM for a

venues and channels from caterers to

sample at info@rdmpizza.com.au or visit

restaurants, pubs and clubs and cafés.

rdmpizza.com.au ■

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BEST PRACTICE // Tips to reinvigorate

Hit refresh

Reinvigorate your business approach by looking inside and outside your venue.

WORDS Naomi Zavackas

in their execution. Maintaining

chance to totally wind down and

the big-picture vision you began

engage in some uninterrupted

with will be stymied if you’re

me-time, you’ll end up running

stuck in ‘I must do everything’

on empty very quickly, making

land. Compile a list of all your

trading seven days a week

to-dos, and separate everything

dangerous in the long term.

that creates high anxiety for

Have a clear look at your end-

you. If members on your team

of-day figures and choose your

have skills in areas that would

quietest day. Your customers will

help you outside of their current

understand, and when you’re

job role, include them in those

back on the boards, you’ll be

extras. They’ll feel valued and

refreshed enough to be gracious

trusted by you to help share the

not resentful.

enormous load.

IT STARTED SO well. The vision

into a nightmare, and you’re

was clear; your creative juices

feeling lost and out of control.

Find experts outside of your

Above all else, quit the high and unrealistic expectations

business to help you streamline

of your team and especially of

From someone who has

your tasks. Yes it costs money,

yourself. It’s okay for it to not be

of having your own venue and

been there, here’s my advice

but your business will flourish

perfect. If your baseline vision is

doing what you love every day

to get you back to the place

under your joyful, not-

being executed everyday, your

made it all feel very possible.

you started.

overwhelmed leadership.

guests have a clear picture of

were flowing and the excitement

Then, you began fit-out, and a

Delegate your operational and

If your venue is owner–

who you are and your team are

whole set of problems you hadn’t

administration tasks. You need to

operated, close at least one day

fulfilling their roles, let it go and

accounted for came to light.

let go of things you’re not actually

a week. I can hear the push back

live a little. The favourite question

good at and hence, drown you

already. But unless you have a

I ask myself when I’m on the edge

Somehow you got through it, albeit a little more stressed than you’d anticipated. “Once I open, it‘ll be different,” you thought.

“I’ll be living and breathing everything I imagined.” Once you opened, reality began to reveal itself. The dream quickly turned 14 | Hospitality

of a perfectionist meltdown is:

Quit the high and unrealistic expectations of your team and especially of yourself. It’s okay for it to not be perfect.

“Does it really matter?” Perfection is overrated, and puts so much undue pressure on a day that is already full of it. It’s not worth the price of relationships and sanity it demands you pay. ■

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DRINKS // Grower Champagne Lou Dowling and Mike Bennie

Changing of the guard The rise of the grower Champagne market is shaking things up in the elite wineproducing region — and on Australian wine lists.

WORDS Kirsty Sier PHOTOGRAPHY Maclay Heriot for P + V

THINK OF CHAMPAGNE and the first

create sparkling wine called Champagne,

generally believed to be the highest quality,

comes from the right region and is made by

thing that comes to mind is the product. It’s most complex and expensive sparkling wine in the world.

For hundreds of years, growers produced

but it’s only classified as Champagne if it

grapes and the Champagne houses blended,

méthode champenoise.

exception of a select handful of growers

These days, there are roughly 260

processed and bottled them; with the

who made limited releases for their own

The French region of Champagne is

Champagne houses in existence, which

and what can be counted among their

production and 90 per cent of exports.

began to change, and we are now starting

own grapes, with the majority sourced

result is referred to as grower Champagne,

very particular about its product, and who clubhouse. The main grapes grown are Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier, along with two historic vine stocks, Arbanne and Petit Meslier. The vast majority are used to 16 | Hospitality

are responsible for around 70 per cent of However, very few houses produce their from a broad network of growers across the region.

consumption or for local wine bars.

However, a few decades ago, things

to see waves in the Australian market. The

which as the name suggests, is Champagne made by grape growers.

Sydney’s P+V Wine + Liquor Merchants was

transparency in terms of the place they’re grown

owners Mike Bennie and Lou Dowling both

Champagnes with reserve materials in an effort

one of the early adopters of the product, with long-time fans. Bennie says he first encountered grower Champagne almost 20 years ago when he was working at Best Cellars. Due to the

nature of commercial Champagne, independent

because they’re not necessarily bolstering their to try to make them more complex,” he says.

“They’re inherently the personality of the place

they come from and that’s really exciting to me.”

In terms of adopting grower Champagne

liquor stores were competing against the market

as a ‘trend’, Bennie says Australia has been

time, which meant independents had to look to

of Champagne per capita combined with a

forces of larger supermarket-style stores at the alternatives to bolster Champagne sections in their stores.

For Bennie, the world of grower Champagne

was unlocked. “The idiosyncrasies of grower

Champagne are often about giving drinkers more

leading the charge due to our high consumption relatively well-educated wine market. “You

would mention Australia in the same breath as

Tokyo, Copenhagen, Paris, London and New York as being absolutely at the forefront of embracing the innovative, smaller and more contemporary approaches to wine and winemaking,” he says.

Despite a fluid market, wine lists at the majority of bars and restaurants in the country still

prioritise established Champagne houses over

independent grower Champagne. But it’s good

news for venues with them on the menu — they automatically stand out from the crowd.

Take Bistrot 916, for example. The wine list at

the French-style bistro in Sydney’s Potts Point is headed up by Sommelier Andy Tyson, who has

compiled a list that comprises 85 per cent grower Champagne. “It’s still a bit of a niche, but a lot of people have been talking about it,” he says.

“People are now interested in looking deeper into wine and for brands they don’t know about.”

One of the more exciting aspects about grower

Champagne is the chance to venture beyond tried and tested profiles such as Champagne

brut, blanc de blancs, blancs de noir, demi-sec

and Champagne millésime. Grower Champagne

benefits from the autonomy and creativity of the

individual grower. “You get more single-vineyard modellings, so more of an expression of the

vineyard as opposed to a village or a region,”

says Tyson. “Within that, you get a much broader stylistic difference from grower to grower as

opposed to Champagne house to Champagne

house. The big point is you’re buying an artisanal product from a family or an individual who

April 2021 | 17

DRINKS // Grower Champagne

“I think people are ... trying to support the smaller, the grower–producer and those doing things a little bit differently.” – Mike Bennie

DRINKS // Grower Champagne

“The big point is you’re buying an artisanal product from a family or an individual who has really cared for the grapes and cared for the product.”

– Andy Tyson Bistrot 916 Photography by Jason Loucas

has really cared for the grapes and cared for the product. It’s a much smaller

production, but there’s a hugely varied selection you can drink.”

Consuming grower Champagne provides an opportunity to experience a true

expression of terroir. For Bennie, the

appeal lies with the manifold diversity you can find in a grower Champagne along

with supporting artisanal, hands-on and

largely organic producers. “I like the fact

grower Champagne producers have more contact with the growing and production

Michael Clift, Dan Pepperell and Andy Tyson

of their wines,” he says. “They’re by and

is to follow the importers. If you have a

The ‘gamble’ at Bistrot 916 has paid off

focused in terms of elevated quality rather

to good wine. “With the European wines,

says the vast majority of customers opt to

large organic-focused and more quality-

than meeting a [certain] level for a massmarket product. The wines can be more

reflective of the place they’re grown and

you can see the nuance and detail in those wines from estate to estate and sub-region to sub-region.”

Choosing grower Champagne is a way

of exploring the Champagne region in a purer way teamed with an appreciation

good importer, they will generally lead you we’re lucky to have very good importers

in Australia,” says Tyson. “They shape the Australian market more than anything.”

Bennie and Tyson agree importer Robert

Walters from Bibendum Wine Co. is a

But as a restaurateur or sommelier,

how do you go about selecting grower

Champagnes to include on your wine list?

The advice from both Bennie and Tyson

18 | Hospitality

it sometimes requires a little explaining.

“I think the shift in focus is based on

engagement in the market, and perhaps

and David Burkett.

“It’s impossible not to namecheck Rob

so formidably important in advocating

to Champagne.

in favour of grower Champagne — even if

Tyson also lists Andrew Guard, Tim Stock

grower Champagne market in Australia.

sometimes a little more wild — but it’s winemaker’s vision when it comes

before, and forego the Champagne houses

the commercial reality of fighting mass-

Walters from Bibendum Wine Co. in the

the only way to experience a singular

try something they have not experienced

key figure responsible for the rise of the

for growers and their patches of earth.

It’s more idiosyncratic, and certainly

for Tyson and his team. The sommelier

mix of this conversation because he was for grower Champagne and doing a lot of work around grower Champagne,” says Bennie. “But of course, other importers have followed suit, and are bringing

incredible products into Australia, so we’re sort of blessed.”

market Champagne’s price points and

a fatigue with the familiar and wanting

to explore something more diverse,” adds Bennie. “And, of course, being able to

offer drinkers something that engages for

a variety of different reasons [beyond the fact] the product is recognisable. A lot of

people will drink Veuve Cliquot and Moët

because they sense it’s a luxury product … but I think people are moving away from

that and are trying to support the smaller, the grower–producer and those doing things a little bit differently.” ■

ADVERTORIAL // Commonwealth Bank

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General Manager Kristy Yoon says the

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20 | Hospitality

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maximise the potential for them.”

Yoon says she found customer data to

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customer loyalty and to identify the best

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way to incentivise staff to provide even

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better customer service.

She also says it helped them understand

Yoon says coming from a corporate

customer demographics and behaviours

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such as how far customers travelled to make

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a purchase and whether they were repeat

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or new customers. In addition, they could

the Daily IQ data until they use it. “It’s

compare customer spending behaviour at

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customers are and how often they come

“Pre-COVID-19, we would have looked

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she says. ■

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access to a lot of information. The lack

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PRO17615_CBBUS_Tech Q3_PRESS_HP_135x185_v03ih.indd 1

April 2021 | 21

16/3/21 5:22 pm

PROFILE // Soul Dining & Soul Deli

Soul Dining & Soul Deli Illa Kim and Daero Lee have gone two for two, opening a contemporary Korean fine diner and a hybrid deli Sydney didn’t know it was missing.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros MODERN KOREAN CUISINE in Australia

contributing to the growth of contemporary

most of his life in the kitchen, attending

recent years. Barbecue restaurants have

a lockdown idea into a business and the

in Korea before working in bakeries

has hit the accelerator hard and fast in

long reigned supreme, but a guard of chefs

and restaurateurs are looking to expand the minds of local diners beyond sizzling grills.

Daero Lee and Illa Kim have done just

that with the launch of Soul Dining in

Sydney’s Surry Hills two years ago and the

subsequent opening of Soul Deli just a short stroll away. Kim talks to Hospitality about

Korean in the local dining scene, turning

addiction of opening venues diners simply can’t stop throwing their arms around.

Illa Kim worked in marketing and PR before she made the jump into the

hospitality industry. So what prompted

the career change? “I married a chef,” she says. Said husband Daero Lee has spent

a hospitality high school and college

and French and Italian restaurants. Lee

secured an Australian working visa and the connections he made during the trip went

on to shake things up in a big way. “Daero came back to Korea and then the people

he worked with in Australia offered him a

job,” says Kim. “I came to Australia too and worked in an office.”

Illa Kim and Daero Lee

22 | Hospitality

When Kim and Lee made the move, they

were both struck by the local Korean food

scene. “I expected I would come to Sydney and there would be a lively Korean food

scene, which there is, but not on the high end,” says Kim. “The idea of having our own place naturally developed and we

started thinking about opening something for about two years before we actually did it.”

That something turned out to be Soul

Dining, which flung open its doors on

Devonshire Street two years ago. “Our thinking behind the concept was for

Daero to cook what he wanted to cook; he always wanted to recreate dishes from his childhood with the techniques he learned

from Italian and French restaurants. [Soul

Dining is] Korean from our perspective; it’s

Korean cuisine was quite difficult. So we

integrity. “We tried to stay true to ourselves

modern techniques.”

menu including not having bowls of rice

food didn’t come to the table the way we

Korean influences with local produce and

The launch of Soul Dining brought about many questions from diners, who hadn’t experienced anything like it before.

Hence, an opportunity presented itself

for Lee and Kim to educate the public on

a cuisine that’s prolific in not only Korea, but other cities such as New York. “The understanding about Korean cuisine

wasn’t there as much as we thought,”

says Kim. “Everybody is so sophisticated

made certain choices when we set up the to order because we wanted diners to see

how far Korean can go if you’re willing to try. People were asking, ‘Where’s the rice

and kimchi?’ but I think once they tried it, they recognised other things in our food.

We also offer an experience in the way

the team put together a revolving roster of deopbap to keep staff in jobs and provide some comfort to regulars.

Kim and Lee had always considered

behind the dishes instead of just putting

on natural Korean rice wines. Bowl by

pairings and telling customers the story them down and walking away.”

terms of direction, but I think the general

junior category. But around a year in, the

end. Convincing people to spend more on

do something different. Bowl by Soul saw

opening a second venue, but they thought

The restaurant quickly found its footing

idea of Korean food is still on the cheaper

wanted it to,” says Kim. The answer was to

modern Australian cuisine does with wine

about food here; they know about kimchi, they understand what Korean food is in

and do takeaway in lockdown, but the

and nestled its way into a relatively

pandemic hit, and Soul Dining faced an

all-too-familiar dilemma: survival versus

it would be a wine bar; one that focused Soul thwarted that idea (for now), and

the pair started looking for a “hole in the

wall takeaway shop” but ended up coming across a much bigger space. “The ideas

started to snowball and we talked to so

many people in the community,” says Kim “Then we got introduced to Dan [Kim]

April 2021 | 23

PROFILE // Soul Dining & Soul Deli

“As a restaurant business, I do think we need to be versatile and have more outlets and categories to serve if something unexpected comes along.” – Illa Kim

PROFILE // Soul Dining & Soul Deli

Soul Deli has a dedicated kimchi bar

Primary Coffee are Soul Deli’s supplier

Lee and Kim worked with the same builder for both of their venues

Daero Lee cooked in fine-dining French and Italian restaurants in Korea

from Primary Coffee and we thought the space would make sense as a café. We

met more people in the Korean-Australian community and could use the space to show what Koreans do in Australia.”

So that’s what happened. Soul Deli

is very much a hybrid venue with three distinct spaces: a café, deli and retail

offering that offers curated Korean food products and wares. The venue was

slated to open in November, however

delayed permits and Christmas pushed the launch back to February. With that said, the process was a lot easier the

if something unexpected comes along. A

two people could get JobKeeper and we

same builder who we trusted and having

audience and cover multiple price ranges.”

which was scary because we didn’t know

second time around. “We went with the

another business up and running gives you

hybrid concept allows us to reach a bigger A more casual venue has also laid the

had to carry three with our own money,

how long lockdown would last; but staff

reassurance,” says Kim. “Many of the deli

foundations for more experimentation and

all know each other and our regulars have

freedom to replicate dishes seen in Korea,

moved across to the deli, but the venue

that skyrocket in popularity. “If we were

difficult because they aren’t as many

staff came from Soul Dining, so the team supported us, too.”

Spearheading a more casual venue has provided myriad opportunities for Lee

and Kim, who have seized the day when it comes to trialling different concepts.

For example, sauces and marinades were all requested by Soul Dining customers

pre-COVID, and they’re now selling hot at the deli. The past year has been a

huge lesson for operators and many are

now futureproofing new and pre-existing

a quicker turnaround. Soul Deli has the

with K-dramas playing a big part in meals in Korea, we’d have a bowl of rice with different ingredients on top of it while

watching Kingdom,” says Kim. “We can be much faster and fun about trends at the deli. A lot of people would ask us about doing ram-don at Soul Dining, but we

couldn’t because the authentic taste is with

instant noodles, but now we can cook it for them at the deli.”

concepts. “I did hear a lot from industry

While it only took a few months to get

biggest factors of their survival; same

proved to be a challenge. Like many other

peers that home kits were one of the

with anything that people can recreate at

home,” says Kim. “As a restaurant business, I do think we need to be versatile and

have more outlets and categories to serve 24 | Hospitality

Soul Deli up and running, recruiting

venues, Soul Dining lost a significant

number of staff during the pandemic. “60

per cent went back to their home countries to be with their families,” says Kim. “Only

are family.”

Some Soul Dining team members have

still needed extra hands. “Rehiring was

people with a certain level of experience; they’re either too skilled or entry-level,”

says Kim. “But things have settled down a bit and people are now looking at

employment differently; they want to stick

with businesses instead of moving around.”

The wine bar may have been put on hold for now, but Lee and Kim aren’t ruling

out further expansion of the Soul brand.

“It’s totally stressful, but we have so many ideas and maybe we’ll do something with

seafood,” says Kim. “We have lots of really interesting seafood dishes in Korea we

could recreate with Australian produce.

Once you do this, it’s a little bit addictive.”

■

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FEATURE // Woodcut

A cut above Woodcut puts food, drink and design on an equal playing field.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros

ROSS AND SUNNY Lusted first started

the initial design process, finding and

and I in some respects make our jobs

pronged process followed, unfolding over

and artisans, transforming a large-scale

holistic.”

thinking about Woodcut in 2007. A multimany years and just as many facets. While food and drink occupies the surface level of a restaurant, a slight etch can reveal so much more. And that’s exactly what

collaborating with new and old artists

restaurant into a series of intimate spaces

and why they simply don’t know how to do it any other way.

Ross and Sunny set out to do — create a

Working across the build and design of

but the vessel it is cooked in; a concept that

and Ross Lusted, who collated their ideas

restaurant that not only showcases food,

allows customers to interact with chefs in

the kitchen while observing an installation that hangs above their heads.

Woodcut in Crown Sydney is a restaurant

that brings together some of the country’s most talented figures across myriad

applications; culinary is just the beginning.

Ross and Sunny talk to Hospitality about 26 | Hospitality

Woodcut was never a question for Sunny for the restaurant into a 40-page book.

harder by curating every part of it, but it’s The approach is nothing new for the duo,

who spent many years working for Aman

Resorts where they made connections with small- and large-scale makers. The spirit

of collaboration stuck, and it’s something that has formed the nucleus of the pair’s approach to creating restaurants.

Ross and Sunny envisioned a restaurant

“There’s no way you can open a restaurant

with multiple cooking stations and

considered and integrated — otherwise it

foundation of Woodcut. “Once we started

like Woodcut without everything being

feels like you have a procurement company who does one thing, a chef who does

another and a restaurant manager who

does something else,” says Ross. “Sunny

methods, which went on to form the

building from that, we set a clear brief for the architects so everyone was clear,” says

Ross. “It was an initial brief document that was our anchor for every item we wanted

After coming across Penelope Duke’s

Ross met an architect on a project who

see if she would be interested in making

interested in making a knife. “I blew it

‘What are the materials?’ We’re cooking in

work on Instagram, Ross reached out to

make the walls out of hot rolled steel.”

Woodcut’s tabletop vases. “We wanted

a wood oven with cast-iron pans, so let’s

Each element found within Woodcut is linked to its moniker, with everything

from Kris Coad’s chandelier of porcelain

leaves to Freehand Creations’ steak knives bouncing off each other. The pieces from

makers found within Woodcut’s walls are

vast: Kenny Yong-soo Son from Studiokyss is behind the water jugs, with a one-off

piece morphing into a design that could be replicated for a 260-seat restaurant. “We

worked with him to refine it and make 60 jugs for the restaurant,” says Ross. “We

a minimal palette and residential style and also thought about what plants

would be in the vases,” says Ross. “It took me a while to convince her and time is

what’s challenging — these projects can take a year for smaller producers, and I

understand that having studied ceramics and sculptures. It is a long process; the project is achievable the earlier we can

mentioned his son Ajax Fitton was

off and thought there’s no way he’s going to make 150 knives in a year, but he

kept coming back to me and eventually a sample arrived in the mail. I was blown

away and he did it. I was also talking to

him about needing a leather handle for a cast-iron pan and his partner works with bespoke bags and she did a template. It seems people come across you.”

The story behind Woodcut’s cast-iron

work with the artisans.”

pans is also worthy of a mention. “We went

also came about by a chance encounter.

says Ross. “They hadn’t made the pans

The restaurant’s handmade steak knives

to Oigen in Japan for the cast-iron pans,”

then sketched a sugar bowl and milk jug

and talked about how they sit with all the other pieces, which comes down to size

and practicality. I always put pieces on a tabletop and it becomes evident what’s

“They hadn’t made the pans since the ’60s and they brought the moulds out of storage. I think it took 12 months to convince them to make them for us.” — Ross Lusted

going to work or not as you start adding in pieces.”

Sunny and Ross Lusted

April 2021 | 27

FEATURE // Woodcut

to bring in. With the architect, it was,

FEATURE // Woodcut

“Everything we’ve looked at is a melding of what’s since the ’60s and they brought the moulds

Woodcut encompasses four open kitchens,

convince them to make them for us.”

cooking method (steam, smoke, fire,

out of storage. I think it took 12 months to

On the art front, the majority of pieces are from Australian artists with the exception of Eric Gushee; a Chicago-based creator

who made a piece from woven steel and copper, which Sunny says references

the rings of a tree. “Everything we’ve

looked at is a melding of what’s come

before, but also new discoveries and new collaborations,” she says. “Some of the

more obvious details like the artworks are

very deeply appreciated and people spend a lot of time looking at them, walking

over to them and really examining what

they’re about and what they bring to the equation. Each artist we’ve worked with has brought something very unique, but also very Woodcut.”

Ross echoes the sentiment, and says

each work contributes to a broader

narrative: “When we did the art brief,

it was about relating back to trees, the

with each showcasing a different

ice). The kitchens naturally form their own ‘mini’ dining experiences which

the broader space that weaves Woodcut

— Sunny Lusted

adds Ross. “He knew exactly how the light

the four kitchens which create theatre

the pieces.” Hammond’s core business is

says Sunny. “Everything centres around and engagement with chefs while also

punctuating the room; you feel like you’re in one of a series of 30-seat restaurants.

One of the favourite pieces is Coad’s

chandelier of white porcelain leaves,

which hangs over the chef’s table and

was going to catch them when he selected making mining buckets for Rio Tinto, but

the maker’s varied skill set enabled him to also create the restaurant’s charcoal grill, ‘bricks’ for the brick chicken dish and fire

tools. Such is the nature of collaboration.

has beautiful movement if there’s a little

When Ross and Sunny set out to construct

are in our private dining rooms and so

experience for diners that would slowly

breeze. The golden clouds by Carly Scoufos many people seek them out and spend time studying them. Amanda Dziedzic

made a beautiful glass forest at our entry

and Tracey Deep created a hemp sculpture for our Yellow Box dining area.”

Steel walls serve as Woodcut’s spine and

charcoal ceiling; each piece relates to the

Hammonds built all the walls and it’s an

28 | Hospitality

collaborations.”

together. “It’s a layered experience,”

are a nod to Richard Serra, whose work

tactility of the materials.”

new discoveries and new

are intersected by art pieces throughout

environment or wood,” says the chef.

“Everything circles back to timber, even the

come before, but also

Ross and Sunny saw in New York. “Wayne extraordinary amount of engineering,”

Woodcut, they hoped to create an

unfurl; not just during their initial time

at the restaurant, but in their minds after

their exit and eventual return. “We wanted guests to visualise being at the counter on their next visit or think about celebrating

in a private dining room,” says Sunny. “It’s been a beautiful unfolding for us and is

one of the side effects that is very much

supported by the layout; creating a vibe and connecting people to the chefs.” ■

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FEATURE // Pasta Tipico’s beetroot tortelli

Cutting shapes Mantecare is the name of the game when it comes to creating close-to-perfect pasta.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros

PASTA IS ARGUABLY (or not) one of the

Marco Villa grew up in Southern Italy and

is a combination of books and experience.

foodstuff comes in hundreds of different

age. You see, Villa was busy learning from

learn the theory and the methods, but the

greatest carbohydrates. The yellow-tinged forms and is a vessel for one of life’s other great pleasures — sauce. Making pasta is nothing short of a skill, and while its

composition comprises just a handful of ingredients, mastering the art of pastamaking is far from simple.

found himself in the kitchen from a young the best — his mother and grandmother.

“They were the first people who taught me how to cook when I was really young,” he

says. “My mum had to work, so she taught me how to make pasta which I’d prepare

“The main difference in school is that you reality is you also learn from being in the kitchen with other chefs who teach you

all their tricks to making the best-possible pasta,” says Villa.

Sagra Head Chef Michael Otto had a

for lunch.”

similar experience — albeit in Australia.

to Hospitality about learning the basics,

significant influence on Villa, who went on

making it my whole life,” he says. “You’re

makes a good plate of pasta.

chef, most recently at Tipico in Melbourne.

Chefs Marco Villa and Michael Otto talk

pairing shapes with sauces and what

30 | Hospitality

The foundational cooking lessons had a

to study cookery and forge a career as a

As with many skills, the learning process

“We cooked pasta at home, so I’ve been taught how to make pasta at TAFE and most people have an idea about how to make it, but they don’t do it well.

pasta offering frequently, and has also

education meets the internet meets kitchen

chestnut flours alongside other additions

Otto relied on a mixed bag of formal

Sagra has started hand-rolling orecchiette more often

Sagra sources its semolina from Tamworth

experience. “I mostly trained under chefs

including the former owner of Sagra, Nigel [Ward] and the head chef Glenn,” he says.

“They both taught me heaps. I also just

became comfortable enough to chat with

other chefs, which was really helpful with learning; most of it is trial and error.”

Tipico has started selling pasta through Providoor

Villa first came to Australia eight years ago from Italy

The restaurant switches up the

of training.”

Pasta is made of just three ingredients:

flour, water and eggs, should the shape call for it. Of course, there are other additions depending on the dish, but flour is of

the utmost importance. Villa combines a number of flours together to create the

experimented with wholemeal and

such as charcoal and cooked vegetables.

But additional ingredients introduce the challenge of reworking ratios. “We are

making charcoal pasta where we mix two flours with activated charcoal powder,” says Villa. “But adding the charcoal

made the consistency too wet and hard

to stretch, so we had to mix in semolina.

Same with the beetroot tortelli we are

making now; cooked beetroot adds a lot

of moisture, so we had to adjust the recipe and mix in another flour to reach the right consistency.”

Otto also opts to mix flours, combining

best consistency. “We like to mix different

00 with Bellata Gold Milling’s semolina

“We use semolina, 00 flour and 000 flour,

Wales. “We use ¾ semolina and ¼ 00

types of flour together at Tipico,” he says. which is something new we’re trying.

000 gives the best flavour, but it’s hard to work with. Not many people use it; it’s

something used a lot in pastry. It was a

tip from a previous chef I worked with.

When you eat the pasta, it’s a completely different feeling in your mouth.”

which is made in Tamworth, New South flour,” says the chef. “There’s a little bit of

flavour with the semolina, but it’s not a lot.

It’s more about how much the sauce sticks

to the pasta compared to 00 flour or bread flour; you end up with a much smoother pasta and the sauce doesn’t sink into it.”

The Sagra team will incorporate eggs,

“It’s more about how much the sauce sticks to the pasta compared to 00 flour or bread flour; you end up with a much smoother pasta and the sauce doesn’t sink into it.”

– Michael Otto @sagrarestaurant

April 2021 | 31

FEATURE // Pasta

Making high-quality pasta takes a fair bit

FEATURE // Pasta

While the right pieces of equipment

make the job a little easier, there’s no

denying the investment required to make fresh pasta. Tipico breaks the job up over a number of days to fit in with the rest of

the restaurant’s prep. “We make the dough the day before and then we cut, vac-pack

and store it in a cool room,” says Villa. “It

needs to rest for at least half an hour, but a day is good. When I come in the next day,

I’ll let it come up to temperature and then stretch and shape the pasta.”

Otto says making pasta is the most

demanding task the kitchen team

manages. “We usually have four pastas on and a special, so it’s easily the most timeconsuming thing we do; there’s someone on it for a couple of hours each day.”

Shelf life is also largely dependent on

the type of pasta. Filled and egg variations expire quicker but can be frozen if not

used in a couple of days, whereas a dry

extruder pasta is still good to go almost a week later.

“The sauce must be attached and combined to the pasta — it shouldn’t be around the plate. It takes a lot of experience to make pasta in this way.” – Marco Villa

but only when called for. “We use them

when we want the dough to be stretchier, so for filled pastas like tortellini, but we wouldn’t use it for spaghetti where we want more chew.”

Sourcing the right equipment goes a long way to reducing the labour-intensive

task of making pasta. There is a realm of intricate shapes such as orecchiette and pici that require a deft touch, but

making the shapes on a restaurant scale

is a challenge. Both Sagra and Tipico list

cutters, stretchers and rollers as essentials.

“The stretcher cuts down preparation time immensely especially when you’re making pasta every day,” says Villa. “We also uses a 15-litre mixer.”

Otto says a gnocchi board is another

piece of equipment Sagra commonly uses along with a roller. “We use the roller

pretty much every day and we have an extruder we use all the time.”

32 | Hospitality

Tipico’s gnocchi with ’nduja and stracciatella

Working out which sauces and shapes pair

together all comes down to experience. For Villa, it’s straightforward. “When I cook

meat-based sauces such as a ragu, it can go

FEATURE // Pasta @sagrarestaurant

@sagrarestaurant

with long or short shapes,” says the chef.

“If I’m making a sauce with mushroom and sausage, I’d use rigatoni or macaroni. But

if I’m preparing seafood or fish, I stick with long shapes such as spaghetti, tagliolini and tagliatelle. Most people follow the

standard, but sometimes it’s nice to try

new things like filling up big rigatonis in the same way as cannelloni.”

At Sagra, it’s a similar story. “It’s a bit of

Tipico’s pappardelle ox cheek ragu

intuition, but ribbon-y pastas go with meat

sauces and spaghetti and firm ones go well with fish,” says Otto. “We don’t use too

translates to creating a creamy texture

‘Why did they leave the best part?’ Pasta

better. We usually bake tube pastas, but

attached and combined to the pasta — it

more important.”

much butter in our fish sauces, so it binds generally those things are my go-tos.”

You can make a killer sauce and pasta

shape, but it all comes down to how well they bind together. “Consistency is very

through mixing. “The sauce must be

shouldn’t be around the plate,” says Villa.

“It takes a lot of experience to make pasta

Fortunately for local diners, the future

masters of it.”

plate of top-tier pasta. “When I first came

in this way. People from Southern Italy are Villa is also keen to see Australians

important; it’s not good if all the sauce

approach a plate of pasta a little

pasta,” says Villa.

everywhere, but what people really love

is on the bottom and not sticking to the The Italian word mantecare is of utmost

importance when it comes to creating

a cohesive pasta dish. The term loosely 34 | Hospitality

is pasta — the tastiness of the sauce is

differently. “In Italy, we have pasta

is the sauce,” says the chef. “They clean

the plate. Here, people eat the pasta and leave leftover sauce and I always think,

looks bright when it comes to securing a

here, there weren’t that many good Italian restaurants,” says Villa. “But there are so

many good places now. Italian chefs have really imported what we have in Italy to Australia; especially in Melbourne.

Nowadays, you can find almost everything we do in Italy here.” ■

NESTLE- GOLDENCHEFS.COM. AU ENTRIES CLOSE 21 MAY 2021* *Important Information: Entry is for individuals who are AU or NZ residents working (current or recent) in the culinary industry & aged between 16 & under 25 on 30.12.21. Entry is open March 29 to May 21. Twelve regional winners will be announced May 31. Grand Finals will be held between Sept 4 - 9. See full T&Cs at www.nestle-goldenchefs.com.au

FEATURE // Milk alternatives

The land of

milk and coffee Plant-based ‘milk’ represents roughly 7 per cent of all milk products consumed in Australia.

But as a barista, there are considerations to make before embracing them.

WORDS Kirsty Sier

DAIRY WAS THE first and the last word

based milk accounted for 7 per cent of

— until now. If a customer was lactose

dominates the market by a long way, but

when it came to milk-based coffees in cafés intolerant, there may have been a soy

option stowed away in the barista’s fridge, but it was likely watery and lumpy, and

was definitely not made for steaming and

Toby’s Estate in Sydney’s Chippendale, it

the growth of the alternative milk industry

always do quality control and testing when

has captured a market share that is hard to ignore.

There are now more brands of milk

blending with coffee.

alternatives than ever before — but this

shifted dramatically over recent years, with

Although most nut milks are made using

The landscape of alternative milks has

a burgeoning market of not only more

diverse and higher-quality soy milks, but also a smorgasbord of nut- and grain-

based products whether soy, oat, coconut, almond, hazelnut or macadamia.

Hospitality talks to Toby’s Estate’s Elouise

del Rosario and Barista Adrian Duquilla about finding the right alternatives, the intricacies of soy and nut milks and the importance of continued training.

The rise of the plant-based milk market can be observed across the entire landscape of milk alternatives; as of last year, plant36 | Hospitality

For Elouise del Rosario, café manager at

all milk consumed in Australia. Dairy still

is not necessarily good news for a barista.

was a long process of trial and error. “We we’re choosing our milk alternatives,”

she tells Hospitality. “We’ve tried heaps of

different alternative milks and we feel the ones we’ve chosen work really well with our coffee and the blend that we use.”

the same method — generally by soaking

The Toby’s Estate flagship currently works

then blending it with water and straining to

Bonsoy, The Alternative Dairy Co for

the nut or grain for an extended period,

remove solids — the outcomes vary wildly.

The texture, flavour and mouthfeel of

with three different milk alternatives: almond milk and Califia for oat milk.

The characteristics del Rosario and

plant-based milks differ from brand to

her team look for when they test new

usually with cane sugar, brown rice syrup,

balance. “Alternative Dairy Co approached

brand. Some add artificial sweeteners, agave or tapioca syrup, so that when

blended with coffee, it will taste like sugar has been added; other brands have thin

textures due to a high percentage of water,

which means they are not as robust for use in latte art.

brands are varied, and it comes down to us and we tested their almond milk and

compared it to the product we had and it

just worked in terms of the flavour and the compatibility with our coffee,” she says.

“The other product had a very strong

flavouring to it, and we found Alternative

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FEATURE // Milk alternatives

“Test them out and decide for yourself which one works for your café and your coffee blends. The most important thing is how it tastes with your coffee.” – Adrian Duquilla @thenakedbarista_

Dairy Co’s milk lent a really nice almond flavour to the coffee but it didn’t

overpower the coffee itself. In terms of

steaming and pouring for latte art as well, it was also really great.

“I think it’s pretty much the same for all

the other alternative milks we have; we

wanted to make sure that it highlights the coffee we use, the texture is great, that it’s nice and creamy and the mouthfeel is good.”

Another influence on Toby’s Estate’s

brand choices was customer demand.

Bonsoy ticks all the boxes when it

comes to flavour profile, mouthfeel

and workability, but has also become synonymous among soy-drinking

customers, who were specifying they

wanted coffee made with the product.

According to del Rosario, working with

alternative milks as a barista is relatively

coffee is. The best training for this, she says, is practice.

“The alternative milks we’ve chosen

generally steam well and are pretty

standard in terms of burning and foaming

points,” says del Rosario. “For us, it’s more making sure the milks are cold. We try

to keep them as cold as possible and not leave them out for long.

it, before pouring the rest of the milk. “It blends it and gives a buffer before you

pour the steamed soy milk into the cup,” she says.

handle The Naked Barista, latte art is

to alternative milks. Our blend doesn’t

have a lot of acidity to it. We create our blends more for milk-based coffees,

while obviously offering single origins for espresso drinkers and black coffee

drinkers. We choose the milk based on the blend, and we try to make sure our house blend is something that can work with all alternative milks.”

Another factor to keep in mind,

still a chance soy milk will curdle when it

38 | Hospitality

bit of soy milk to the coffee shot and swirl

a big role in the blend and how it reacts

differently with these milks. Acidity plays

for a longer period of time. Different milks blends, depending on how acidic the

the baristas at Toby’s Estate to introduce a

For Adrian Duquilla, a freelance barista

particularly with soy milks, is curdling.

also react in alternate ways with coffee

To counteract this, del Rosario cautions

“Of course, different coffee blends work

similar to working with dairy, although

some plant-based milks require stretching

issue with oat, almond and dairy milks.

Even if your coffee isn’t acidic, there’s

makes contact with a hot shot of espresso — something that isn’t so much of an

who is better known by the social media an important factor when it comes to

choosing the milks that he uses. “I’m a

bit of a latte artist, so it is important for

me that I can do latte art with the milks I choose to work with,” he says. “Oat milk is the closest thing to full-cream milk

I’ve found; you do have to stretch it a bit

longer to get the texture you need for latte art and get that creamy mouthfeel. With soy, it’s quite similar to oat milk in the

way you need to stretch it to get the right

texture for drinking. I find with full cream, you don’t have to stretch it as much.

“There are some alternatives that don’t

stretch as well. There are also ones that

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FEATURE // Milk alternatives @thenakedbarista_

“We choose the milk based on the blend, and we try to make sure our house blend is something that can work with all alternative milks.” – Elouise del Rosario match differently with the blends they

For del Rosario, the cost balances out due

decide for yourself which one works for

coffee made using alternative milks will

use. My advice is, test them out and

your café and your coffee blends. The

most important thing is how it tastes with your coffee.”

A consideration for many cafés when it comes to purchasing milk alternatives is cost. Generally, prices correspond

to a general consumer acceptance that

40 | Hospitality

screw-top lids, so they last a bit longer in

the fridge. Before you open them, they do store for quite a while.”

with alternative milk products. “I’ve tried

for alternative milks, so it covers the cost of working with it. The standard 50 cent surcharge tends to cover it.”

The products also have a longer shelf

long shelf lives because they’re in the

cent almonds.

Alternative Dairy Co and Califia — have

— including us — charge customers extra

almond milk products contain just 2 products contain around 10–14 per

through the carton. But the other ones —

For baristas, there’s a lot to consider

cheaper cost,” she says. “But most cafés

life, therefore leading to less potential

per cent almonds, while higher-quality

doesn’t have a lid, so you’ve got to cut

attract a surcharge. “Obviously dairy is a

with the ratio of almonds to water. At

the cheaper end of the spectrum, most

them; particularly with Bonsoy, which

when it comes to stocking and working

the alternative milk options we have and they’re all great, but for me, nothing

will ever be as good as a full-cream milk coffee,” says del Rosario.

With the plant-based milk market in

for waste. “Alternative milks have very

Australia valued at $230 million as of

long-life milk-style cartons,” says del

continuing to expand, the positives of

Rosario. “Once you open them, they’ve

only got maybe two days before you use

2020, and with its estimated market share embracing the growth industry outweigh the challenges. ■

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FEATURE // Kitchen hygiene STRAP NAME // Second Strap

Rinse aids Maintaining a safe and hygienic environment in a commercial kitchen has always required rigorous consideration — and at no time more than now.

IT GOES WITHOUT saying commercial

Hospitality speaks to Chemist and

kitchens are busy, loud and messy places.

Founder of ViroClear Ross Macdougald and

best-practice hygiene standards is difficult.

how venues can continue to keep staff

In fast-paced environments, maintaining

It requires the right equipment, adequate cleaning products, efficient delegation

between team members and corresponding

Roy Chason from Chef and Shuka about

and customers safe through more efficient cleaning measures.

training and education.

According to Chemist Ross Macdougald,

more challenging than ever. Sanitising

product; you just need to include enough

When COVID-19 hit, the task became

venues from top to bottom has become a must, which means purchasing the

right cleaning materials and equipment

from high-grade commercial dishwashers to top-tier disinfectants is of the utmost importance.

42 | Hospitality

it’s relatively easy to create a cleaning

harsh chemicals and active ingredients in

the formula. However, it doesn’t bode well

ingredients; they’re developed to kill

something, but they’re not developed to be used in everyday life,” he tells Hospitality.

For Chef Roy Chason from Chef and Shuka in Ballina, the search for the right product had negative side effects for his skin and for his venue. “We were using different

products before COVID started,” he says.

“We used them on our leather seats and

you could see them starting to fall apart because of that.”

It was also turning off customers. The

for the people using them. Particularly

various hand sanitisers the restaurant

to harsh chemicals. “There are a lot of

the skin and smelt of chemicals. Simply,

staff, who are potentially being exposed products that use way too many active

procured for use were often harsh on

it was turning customers away from the

FEATURE // Kitchen hygiene

“We use the best products and equipment we can.

It doesn’t matter about price, because it will affect everything afterwards. We’d rather put the money on the right things.” – Roy Chason

restaurant as they didn’t want to put something

Although TGA testing is complex and certifies

on their hands that was irritating to the skin.

whether a disinfectant is hospital-grade, and

hospitality think it’s all about cost, because

bacteria, not all products are capable of

“A lot of people I’ve spoken to about it in

of course you’ve got to make money,” says

Macdougald. “If you want your customers to keep returning to your premises, you need to deliver something that is not going to

cause toxicity or sensitivity and that also kills COVID-19.”

whether or not it is effective at killing COVID-19 doing so within the same time period. Many

manufacturers will specify the amount of time it takes for their product to eliminate bacteria on the label, but the standard recommended wait time advised by Safe Work Australia is 10 minutes.

Obviously, the time it takes to allow a

Another consideration with any hand sanitiser or

disinfectant to become effective will impact

setting is speed. Sterilants and disinfectants

particular inconvenience at a time when most

surface disinfectant product used in a hospitality are regulated in Australia depending on

the intended purpose of the product, but

the country’s main regulatory body is the

Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA), which allocates a TGA approval once a product passes rigorous testing procedures.

a restaurant’s ability to seat customers — a

venues are already operating at limited capacity.

“If you sit down at a table in a restaurant and

someone sprays it with a product that takes 10 minutes to work, you can’t actually touch that

table for 10 minutes because the product is still killing the virus,” says Macdougald.

Roy Chason

April 2021 | 43

FEATURE // Kitchen hygiene

“There are a lot of products that use way too many active ingredients; they’re developed to kill something, but they’re not developed to be used in everyday life.”

– Ross Macdougald

These days, it’s more important than ever

keep a commercial dishwasher functioning

may touch, especially dishes and cutlery.

inside of the machine at the end of each

to thoroughly clean anything a customer Although regular dish detergent by

itself doesn’t kill COVID-19, extremely

high temperatures do. With commercial dishwashers in a hospitality kitchen

setting, heat is the main consideration when it comes to maintaining a clean and hygienic environment alongside

operational considerations such as size, capacity and speed.

Chemical sanitisers — many of which

are made up of strong chemicals such as

chlorine, iodine or ammonium — should also be added to the dishwasher prior to the wash cycle to aid the process

and eliminate other types of bacteria.

properly. The first is to wash down the

day with water once the dish racks are

empty. This will wash any residual food scraps into the filter, which should be

emptied into the bin, gently scrubbed with detergent and a soft brush and rinsed off before being replaced.

The jets and the rinse arms should also be cleaned out regularly. If the jets are blocked, hot water will not circulate

properly throughout the machine, resulting in dishes that aren’t cleaned properly. If the rinse arms have rubber gaskets, it’s

also important to ensure these remain in good condition.

Overnight, commercial dishwashers

“With dishwashing, we had to use the

should be left open so that air can circulate

commercial dishwasher that gets to the

up. The risk of expensive emergency

right chemicals from suppliers and a

right temperatures to disinfect dishes

and cutlery,” says Chason. “Everything

must get to over 100 degrees [Celsius].

It’s all automated, so there’s not that

much that needs to be done. We are prerinsing everything and we put it in the dishwasher.”

It should be common practice in most

kitchens, but there are several steps to 44 | Hospitality

and help to reduce any bacterial build

tools required to keep things running

breakdowns of a commercial dishwasher

the right products is the most important

can also be significantly reduced

by booking an annual service by a qualified technician.

At the end of the day, the best way to ensure venues operate to clean and

hygienic standards is to make sure your staff have the training, knowledge and

smoothly. “I think guiding staff to use

thing,” says Chason. “Staff are the most

important consideration and need the most protection because they’re being exposed to chemicals every day. We use the best

products and equipment we can. It doesn’t matter about price, because it will affect

everything afterwards. We’d rather put the money on the right things.” ■

VIDEO // Behind the scenes

Matteo Downtown’s beef tartare on brioche An in-depth look at Hospitality’s masterclass series.

MATTEO DOWNTOWN IN Sydney has put a twist on a classic beef tartare for the restaurant’s bar menu. Chef Orazio D’Elia uses beef tenderloin which is punctuated

by Dijon mustard and gherkins for a punchy snack.

Ingredients 200g beef tenderloin 1 tbsp chopped capers 1 tbsp chopped gherkins 1 tbsp chopped shallot 1 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley 1 tsp Dijon mustard 1 tsp mayonnaise Salt Black pepper Extra-virgin olive oil Pan brioche, sliced into fingers Micro herbs Garlic flowers Fried capers

Method 1. Finely chop the beef tenderloin with a sharp knife. Combine capers, gherkins, shallot, parsley, mayonnaise, Dijon mustard, salt, pepper, olive oil and beef and mix together in a bowl.

2. Toast the pan brioche until golden.

3. Place the tartare mix on pan brioche fingers.

4. Garnish with fried capers, micro herbs and garlic flowers.

Scan the QR code to watch the full video brought to you by Cookers

46 | Hospitality

EQUIPMENT // Gnocchi board

Gnocchi board Roll uniform gnocchi in seconds.

Ideal for making consistent gnocchi

Ridges allow sauce to cling to gnocchi Handle allows user Costs only a

to get a tight grip

few dollars

on board

Hold diagonally for stability

Typically made from natural wood

Hand wash for Custom ridges create uniformity when rolling

48 | Hospitality

longevity and dry with cloth

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5 MINUTES WITH ... // Alejandro Saravia

Alejandro Saravia The chef on Farmer’s Daughters, a three-level ode to Gippsland produce.

FARMER’S DAUGHTERS WAS never

find is me. The menu is completely

direct channel for me to communicate

natural produce available there.

meant to be a restaurant; it started as a with producers. The journey started about

inspired by Gippsland and the rich, On the ground floor you’ll find our deli;

four years ago when one of my suppliers

it’s a casual space with à la carte dining,

Honestly, I was exhausted; I’d been at a

with seasonal produce and wine from

invited me to visit his farm in Gippsland. video shoot since 5:30am, I’d worked a

huge shift the day before and I fell asleep on the car ride. When I woke up … I

couldn’t believe my eyes. It reminded me so much of where I’m from in Peru and I immediately fell in love. Still to this day, I can’t fully explain the instant sense of connection I felt to Gippsland. I began

meeting with farmers, producers, growers and winemakers, listening to their stories and learning from them.

Farmer’s Daughters is completely

different to what I’ve done before. In my

other restaurants — Pastuso in Melbourne and Uma in Perth — the restaurants are

an open kitchen and a pantry stocked

Gippsland. As you head upstairs, you’ll find the restaurant, which has two set

menus to choose from. The rooftop bar is on the third floor, where our aim was to

bring the oasis of regional Victoria to the city. There are house-made cocktails and

an amazing selection of beers, such as the Stringers Creek Pilsner, a collaboration

between Farmer’s Daughters and Stomping Ground Brewing Co. The rooftop also

features specially grown mountain pepper trees that we use all throughout Farmer’s

Daughters. It’s the flavour that represents us specifically.

The whole venue has been designed

Peruvian, the food is Peruvian and the

to bring to life the colours, look and feel

own culture and history. But at Farmer’s

of greens throughout each floor to the

menu and experience brings to life my

Daughters, the only Peruvian thing you’ll 50 | Hospitality

of the Gippsland region, from the variety centrepiece of our first-floor restaurant,

the campfire kitchen, which sits

prominently within the restaurant space.

One of the major philosophies at

Farmer’s Daughters is the idea that we always ask our suppliers what they

want to sell to us, rather than us telling them what we want to buy. I think

this has made a major difference to

the relationships I have with all of the

producers we work with. An example of this is David Jones from Mirboo Farm. I

first met David because of the incredible garlic he and his wife Kirsten produce.

Now, David has become a crucial part of

the Farmer’s Daughters team and acts as our regional liaison. Another example is David Batarilo from Alpine Trout Farm at Noojee. Working alongside farmers

like him is how I became so passionate

about sharing the stories of the region.

As our menu will be changing seasonally, the producers we’ll be working with will rotate.

If a visit to Farmer’s Daughters will

inspire Melburnians to get out and explore Gippsland, I know my job is done. ■

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