Bars & Clubs July - August 2017 by The Intermedia Group

JULY/AUGUST 2017

&clubs TIKI TIME

A taste of paradise

COCKTAILS & FOOD?

Not together, says Fred Siggins

AMERICAN WHISKEY Its origin and virtues

ZUBROWKA

Give your drinks list some Polish P L U S : N E W F R O N T I E R S FO R I PA – T H E B R A M B L E – B I T T E R S & SY R U P S

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ﬁrst drinks

CAPTURING THE MAGIC Well, that came around quickly! It feels like the dust has barely settled on my very first issue of BARS&clubs, and here I am writing my second editor’s note for this fine publication. While there’s plenty to reflect on in this issue, Fred Siggins’ excellent opinion piece on cocktail and food pairing will surely ruffle a few feathers. To me, the conclusion he reaches is one that reinforces rather than limits the creative range of bartenders and their weapon of choice, the cocktail. In short: you needn’t try and copy the age old art of the sommelier, when your creations have a magic all of their own. A well-crafted Tiki drink is something that embodies this magic. As Joe Sinagra explains in his feature, the key to Tiki is escapism. When it’s done right, a bartender basically teleports their guests to a mythical land of sand, sun and palm trees, far away from their day-to-day worries – all inside one mug. And if that’s not the work of a magician, I don’t know what is. Hopefully we’ve managed to capture some of that magic in these pages – not that the transportive properties of reading are any match for a good cocktail, mind you. Nonetheless, I do hope you find the time to absorb all of the wisdom our excellent contributors have shared. Be sure to tune in next time for the September/ October issue. After all, the third time’s the charm right?

“Hopefully we’ve managed to capture some of that magic in these pages – not that the transportive properties of reading are any match for a good cocktail, mind you!”

@BARSANDCLUBSMAGAZINE

MANAGING DIRECTOR Simon Grover PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Tam Allenby tallenby@intermedia.com.au PHOTOGRAPHER Dan Gray: Front Cover Simon Taylor: Category Spotlight

Tam Allenby Editor

/BARSANDCLUB

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BARS&clubs 5

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Features 20 TIKI Island life: Joe Sinagra takes a look at all things Tiki.

JULY/AUGUST

26 COCKTAILS & FOOD Cocktails are obviously amazing, and so is good food – but to Fred Siggins, they don’t belong together.

30 BITTERS & SYRUPS What’s hot, and so what? We revisit this important part of any bartender’s arsenal.

34 AMERICAN WHISKEY Need a refresher on all things bourbon and rye? Glynn Firth is here to help.

38 RATU: THE EXCHANGE The Exchange aren’t messing around when it comes to their latest incentive: The RUM Co. of Fiji Club.

40 NEW FRONTIERS FOR IPA How did a centuries-old beer style become the darling of the modern craft beer industry? Jeremy Sambrooks investigates.

Regulars 8 NEWS What you need to know.

11 OPENINGS The new, the revamped and the rebranded venues opening around the country.

12 INSPIRATION Zubrowka’s European Brand Ambassador, a Jamaican exchange, and an Aussie gin bar.

17 NEW FACES Keep an eye on these bartenders.

18 THE BRAMBLE What’s the story behind this modern-day classic?

38 18

24 CATEGORY SPOTLIGHT This issue, it’s all about Australian Spirits.

DISCLAIMER

This publication is published by The Intermedia Group Pty Ltd (the "Publisher"). Materials in this publication have been created by a variety of different entities and, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher accepts no liability for materials created by others. All materials should be considered protected by Australian and international intellectual property laws. Unless you are authorised by law or the copyright owner to do so, you may not copy any of the materials. The mention of a product or service, person or company in this publication does not indicate the Publisher's endorsement. The views expressed in this publication do not necessarily represent the opinion of the Publisher, its agents, company officers or employees. Any use of the information contained in this publication is at the sole risk of the person using that information. The user should make independent enquiries as to the accuracy of the information before relying on that information. All express or implied terms, conditions, warranties, statements, assurances and representations in relation to the Publisher, its publications and its services are expressly excluded save for those conditions and warranties which must be implied under the laws of any State of Australia or the provisions of Division 2 of Part V of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and any statutory modification or re-enactment thereof. To the extent permitted by law, the Publisher will not be liable for any damages including special, exemplary, punitive or consequential damages (including but not limited to economic loss or loss of profit or revenue or loss of opportunity) or indirect loss or damage of any kind arising in contract, tort or otherwise, even if advised of the possibility of such loss of profits or damages. While we use our best endeavours to ensure accuracy of the materials we create, to the extent permitted by law, the Publisher excludes all liability for loss resulting from any inaccuracies or false or misleading statements that may appear in this publication. COPYRIGHT (C) 2017 - THE INTERMEDIA GROUP PTY LTD.

BARS&clubs 7

news

BLACK PEARL WINS BEST INTERNATIONAL COCKTAIL BAR AT SPIRITED AWARDS

Fitzroy’s Black Pearl won big at Tales of the Cocktail’s Spirited Awards 2017, taking out the title for Best International Cocktail Bar. The award came ahead of Black Pearl’s 15th birthday, which the team will celebrate during August. The bar’s General Manager Chris HystedAdams, who was in New Orleans to collect the award, was understandably delighted. Taking to Twitter to celebrate the win, Hysted-Adams said: “Shit the bed. Best International Cocktail Bar at Tales of the Cocktail. Big Love to and from the Pearl famiglia.” “We’re pretty chuffed, and to be honest, in complete disbelief!” HystedAdams told BARS&clubs. “Crazy stuff”. Black Pearl’s win this year follows similar success two years ago at the 2015 Spirited Awards, when the bar was named Best International High Volume Cocktail Bar. The bar has also enjoyed recent success at the Australian Liquor Industry Awards (ALIA), taking out the Best Cocktail List in 2016 and Best Bar in 2015. The Spirited Awards, often described as the Oscars of the cocktail world, recognise bartenders, bars, brand ambassadors and writers from around the world, with the winners chosen by two panels of over 100 industry experts. This year, the World’s Best Bar was awarded to London bar Dandelyan. “The Spirited Awards get more and more competitive because our industry keeps raising its game every single year,” said Ann and Paul Tuennerman, Co-Founders of Tales of the Cocktail. “Congrats to this year’s winners on monumental accomplishment.”

DOS MADERAS RUM A new aged rum with a three stage maturing process is now available in Australia. Dos Maderas first rests for five years in the Caribbean, before being transported to Spain where it ages for another five years in a solera system using 20 year old Palo Cortado and Pedro Ximenez casks. The rum is distributed in Australia by Cerbaco.

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BOMBAY GREEN Bombay Sapphire was one of the Sustainable Spirit Award winners at Tales of the Cocktail for 2017 thanks to various green initiatives at their Laverstoke Mill distillery, such as cutting down on its carbon emissions by 38%, recycling multiple forms of biomass and harvesting rainwater – setting a valuable precedent in the industry.

ANDY GRIFFITHS TAKES OUT STARWARD CONSTELLATIONS COCKTAIL COMPETITION After winning his local Victorian round, Boilermaker House’s Andy Griffiths battled it out against five other talented bartenders to be crowned the Starward Constellations Cocktail Competition champion for 2017. The finalists were tasked with blending their own whisky and creating a cocktail from a plate of mystery ingredients to be presented to the judges. The other five finalists in the competition were: • WA: Sarah Proietti, Print Hall • QLD: Jack Stacey, The Gresham • SA: Brent Giles, Lady Burra Brewhouse • TAS: Phil McElroy, Void Bar, MONA • NSW: Joshua Diaz, Tio’s Cerveceria In addition to taking home the trophy and title of 2017 winner, Griffiths also took home a 20L barrel of Starward whisky for his efforts.

BEER YOGA The first ever ‘Beer Yoga’ session in Australia took place at The Emerson in Melbourne, held by Omission Beer – the USA’s number one selling gluten-free beer brand. Twenty special guests participated in the 45 minute session, with a number of tailored yoga poses such as the ‘Tipsy Dancer’ that each included a sip of beer.

news DIAGEO BUYS GEORGE CLOONEY’S TEQUILA Diageo has entered into a definitive agreement to acquire Casamigos, the super-premium tequila brand founded by George Clooney, Rande Gerber and Mike Meldman. The transaction values the company at up to $1 billion, with initial consideration set at $700 million and a further potential $300 million based on a performance linked earn-out over 10 years. Casamigos Tequila Co-founder, Rande Gerber, was delighted with the deal to buy the brand, which started as a drink just for friends.

INTERNATIONAL WINE AND SPIRITS RESEARCH RELEASE ANNUAL TOP 100 RANKINGS The top 10 on the list is dominated by brands that would be largely unfamiliar to the average western drinker; selling well over 65 million nine-litre cases in 2016 was South Korean soju brand Jinro, maintaining its number one position as the world’s most popular alcoholic drink.

The percentage of business owners in the hospitality sector who work more than 60 hours a week – compared to 11% on average

VANGUARD SENDING THREE BARTENDERS TO NICARAGUA Three talented bartenders from New South Wales, Victoria and Western Australia are off to Nicaragua, thanks to Vanguard and its inaugural cocktail competition for Flor De Caña rum. The trip includes a day and night on the private island of the owner of Flor De Caña rum, sand boarding in a volcano, visiting a lagoon, a day at the beach, and of course a detailed distillery tour. The winners were Antonello Arzedi from Pino’s Vino e Cucina, Sam Rose from Jungle Boy, and Elise Godwin from Dominion League.

BACARDI LEGACY ENTRIES OPEN Entries for the Australian leg of the 2017/18 Bacardí Legacy Competition are now open. Following in the footsteps of Fred Siggins, Alissa Gabriel, Andrew Bennett, and the current Australian Legacy title holder Dave Kerr, the winner of the Australian Grand Final will go on to represent Australia at the Bacardí Legacy Global Final in Mexico City. To enter, head to the official Bacardí Legacy Australia Facebook page – entries close 2 October at midnight AEST.

(NRMA Business Insurance Business Owner Sentiment Study 2017)

Jinro sold more than double of the brands in second and third place – ABD’s Officer’s Choice whisky (32.3m cases) and Thai Beverages’ Ruang Kao (31.2m cases) – combined. Jinro makes up two percent of the global spirits market on its own, and its total sales of 65.9m cases is considerably more than the total of the spirits markets of the UK, Germany or France. While the top 10 is dominated by giant domestic Asian brands, the international bestsellers are not far behind: Johnnie Walker Scotch comes in at 11th, Bacardi Rum at 13th and Jack Daniel’s Whiskey at 16th. 18 of the brands in the Top 100 belong to Diageo, making the British company the most-represented owner among brands selling over three million cases; Pernod Ricard has eight brands on the list and Campari has four. Reflecting its status as a highly aspirational drink in the developing world, whisky is the most represented category – featuring 28 brands – second to vodka with 19 and rum with six.

HAVE YOU SEEN BARS&CLUBS ONLINE?

All the latest industry news, along with features, tips and tutorials.

BARS&clubs 9

openings

Bosozoku

A once quaint Teppanyaki restaurant in the back streets of South Yarra has been transformed into a Japanese burger joint and sake den that’s well worth heading off Chapel Street for. Bosozoku, named after a notorious outlaw biker gang in Japan, is crammed with bold and wacky features, including ‘secret sake warmer stations’, karaoke rooms, pool tables, motorcycle chandeliers, outdoor fire pits, Hitachi train seats and even a figurative onsen at the base of Mt Fuji. The team at Bosozoku put a Japanese twist on cocktail classics; think espresso martinis twisted with vanilla bean sake, a Wasabi Bloody Mary, and a cherry blossom infused gin – in addition to a wide array of Japanese beers, sakes and whiskeys.

Bar Moncur

An extension to the longstanding Bistro Moncur inside Sydney’s iconic Woollahra Hotel, Bar Moncur is the eastern suburbs’ sleek new cocktail lounge. Aiming to blur the barrier between kitchen and bar, Bar Moncur is a sophisticated space with a French twist. The décor is a mix of leather booths and marble tables with chic furniture in hues of emerald green, while the cocktail menu has been curated by Public House Management Group Mixologist Kurtis Bosley, who focuses on modernised classics, seasonality and providing an excellent liquor selection. The wine list is a mixture of Australia, New Zealand and France and there’s a delectable selection of snacks to munch on as well.

Daddy Long Legs Bar

Daddy Long Legs in Vic Park, Perth, is all about great booze and keeping it local. The bar runs 15 taps of mostly WA craft beer, focusing on beers from Mash, Feral, Nail and Otherside, and the interior design of the space showcases entirely WA timber. Peter Van Zeller, formerly of The Classroom and Must Winebar, is in charge of the cocktail menu, which offers simple, accessible and unpretentious cocktails – often reinventions of classic cocktails for the modern palate. The food offering is contemporary Australian with a global influence – all locally and ethically sourced – with menu standouts including confit duck, jerk chicken poppers and smoked beef brisket.

The Cidery Bar & Kitchen

The Cidery Bar & Kitchen has relaunched in the heart of Sydney’s World Square dining and entertainment precinct, after a complete re-imagining of the venue. The bar offers an expanded range of craft beers and ciders – with a focus on small local breweries – while the bar’s own flagship cider, Sydney Cider, is produced in-house by Sydney Brewery. The Cidery chefs have also developed a selection of dishes to match the crafty brews: share plates include high-quality charcuterie and cheeses, cauliflower crisps with Fourme d’Ambert sauce, and a ‘Lovedale Lager’ battered fish and chips cooked with Sydney Brewery’s excellent lager.

Address: 34 Bray Street, South Yarra VIC

Address: 116 Queen St, Woollahra NSW

Address: 774 Albany Hwy, East Victoria Park WA 6101

Address: 389 Pitt St, Sydney NSW 2000

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save the date

COMMERCIAL DRINKS HITTING SYDNEY THIS SEPTEMBER Sessions will cover: what it takes to operate a successful bar; what good bar design can do for your business; cocktails that drive revenue; staff training and retention; and maximising the wine spend of your patrons. A selection of successful Sydney bar operators and industry experts will make up the session panels, including Jared Merlino, Managing Director of Kittyhawk, Danielle Allen, Director of Two Birds Brewery and Seamus Brandt, Senior Sommelier for Rockpool Bar & Grill. Content has been specifically tailored to reflect current industry trends and demands and, in response to the rising popularity of craft spirits, one session is dedicated entirely to celebrating the Australian gin industry. Facilitated by Nigel Weisbaum from Archie Rose Distilling Co., and Stu Gregor, President of the Australian Distillers Association, the session will present eight gins to taste including spirits from Manly Spirits, Four Pillars, Kangaroo Island Spirits, Archie Rose, and more. In another session, beer expert Kirrily Waldhorn will discuss how to curate the perfect beer menu with publican Michael Bain of the Royal Albert Hotel. Samantha Payne from NOMAD Wine and industry expert David Messum will highlight future drinking trends, including a look at what’s trending internationally, the popularity of prosecco, and the latest fascination with premium mixers. Commercial Drinks takes place from 11-14 September at ICC Sydney in Darling Harbour.

ommercial Drinks, Australia’s newest event dedicated to the on-premise liquor sector, launches this September. Taking place over four days at the newly built ICC in Sydney, the show is co-located with Fine Food Australia, the country’s leading event for the food industry. At Commercial Drinks, operators of licensed venues looking to improve and differentiate their drinks list will be able to browse hundreds of quality beer, spirits and wine brands on display. The Speakeasy Stage, presented by Winterhalter, will provide visitors with a program of free educational sessions addressing a number of pertinent industry topics, all offering insight and solutions designed to directly and immediately benefit business.

Kirrily Waldhorn

For more information and to register, visit www.commercialdrinks.com.au

BARS&clubs 11

inspiration

ZUBROWKA: THE ORIGINAL BISON GRASS VODKA P

rzemysław Matuszewski, European Brand Ambassador for the iconic Polish vodka Zubrowka, was recently in Australia for a whirlwind educational tour, holding masterclasses in Sydney, Brisbane and Melbourne. BARS&clubs caught up with Przzemysław to find out more about this unique, bison grass-infused spirit, and what he’s learned over a 20-year career in the industry. WHAT SEPARATES ZUBROWKA FROM EVERY OTHER VODKA IN THE WORLD? In one word: unique – there is no other product like Zubrowka, with almost 600 years of history. The second: it’s made on the basis of a very natural ingredients which is bison grass – show me other products made with it, you can’t! This grass only grows in one place around the world, in Białowieza Forest in the north east part of Poland. The grass grows there in the spring and summer time and it’s collected by only 20 families by hand. The grass is later dried then delivered to our distillery, and we make a tea maceration of the grass – which becomes something we call the ‘heart of the bison’. And then the finished product is just perfect, a unique product. In every bottle around the world, you can find the blade of grass – from small bottles of 50ml to regular sizes, in every bottle there is only one blade, which is placed in the bottle by hand, because a machine would break the blade. It’s our heritage. 12 BARS&clubs

WHAT FLAVOUR DOES THE GRASS GIVE THE VODKA? The main three flavours of Zubrowka when you open the bottle – take a breath – you feel not only the spirit, it is almond, vanilla and cinnamon. WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE COCKTAIL TO MAKE WITH IT? I’m receiving many questions like that – ‘what’s the best?’ – but all of the thousands of ways bartenders use Zubrowka around the world are super and special in their own way. But a shot and then a slice of apple, I love that. Take a small wedge of apple, take one shot, you will feel the burning inside because it is vodka and then take a breath and the whole apple wedge, squeeze it between your tongue and teeth and you will feel the first drops of fresh apple juice going down your throat. It’s fantastic, it’s gorgeous. And after all, one apple a day keeps the doctor away. I HEARD YOU HAD A BIT OF AN EXPERIENCE WITH AUSTRALIAN QUARANTINE AT THE AIRPORT? I was very scared because I read a lot about the quarantine, so I declared everything at the border. So when we landed, they asked me to show them what I had. As soon as I said I had bison grass a few other quarantine people came over, I showed them the grass and told them a bit about Zubrowka with pictures from my book, about the liquid and about the essence. Now all the officers know about Zubrowka too – it’s great, I’m always teaching! There was no problem with the grass, the essence

is like an extract. So they said thanks for declaring and enjoy your time in Australia! DO YOU HAVE ANY ADVICE FOR YOUNG, AMBITIOUS BARTENDERS? The most important thing for young bartenders and the young generation – not only in bartending but in any profession – is to do what you really love. Do it with passion, be fair, treat people fairly, and have positive respect for other things like your competitors, etcetera. Always treat them well, because you never know which way you’ll go in the future. This is the way to be a professional. For young bartenders, they should gain as much knowledge as possible, love what they do and do it with passion and that should lead to success.

JEREMY SHIPLEY GROUP BEVERAGE MANAGER FOR SOLOTEL AND OUR JULY/AUGUST COVER MODEL, ON ZUBROWKA: “It’s really unique. The Polish bison grass adds a unique flavour – it’s very herbal, it’s got a bit of grassiness to it, and it can lend itself really well to a basic spritz, but we do build flavours around that so coming into spring and summer a lot of fresh, fun flavours work very well with it. The usual suspect is freshly pressed green apple, but passionfruit, fresh citrus, watermelon, or guava is a really lovely combination with Zubrowka as well.”

RAISE

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11-14 SEPTEMBER 2017 INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION CENTRE SYDNEY, DARLING HARBOUR There is an AU$30 door charge for those who do not register online. Visit finefoodaustralia.com.au for more information.

inspiration

APPLETON ESTATE RAW

CULTURAL EXCHANGE T

wo bartenders – one from Brisbane, one from Jamaica, but both from Kingston – recently took part in a unique crosscultural exchange hosted by Appleton Estate. ‘Kingston to Kingston’ was devised based on research conducted by Appleton Estate, which found 62% of Aussies expressing the concern that our nation is becoming closed off culturally, and 45% saying that society is becoming more closed-minded. Despite this pessimism, however, the survey also found that 88% of Aussies still want to learn from people with a different background to their own. As we all know, spirits (and in this case, rum) are a great way to bring cultures together. Inspired by this, the exchange saw Leah Stevens, a bartender from Kingston (Brisbane) travel to Kingston (Jamaica) to meet with local bartender Sheldon Spencer. “I wanted to show Leah the diversity of Jamaica and the versatility of Appleton Estate rum, from the love and care that goes into making it so unique to the Jamaican food it can be enjoyed alongside,” Sheldon explains. “I hope that

14 BARS&clubs

through her new knowledge, Leah can help others grow their appreciation for premium rum.” Leah describes her journey to Jamaica as “unlike anything I have experienced before.” “I was completely blown away by the energy of the people and beauty of the place, to be able to share that time with Sheldon, learning about his world, talking about mine and sharing our love for rum was a complete cultural immersion that showed me the different ways rum can be enjoyed.” To give Sheldon a taste of life Down Under, the Jamaican was flown to Queensland, where Leah showed him what Kingston looks like here in Australia. She also introduced him to the Aussie way of life with two of our most important cultural icons: a local footy game and smashed avo on toast. To top off their journey, Sheldon and Leah created a unique, cross-cultural rum cocktail called the ‘Appleton Estate RAW’, which mixes Jamaican culture with a dash of Australian flair. After all, what’s a holiday without a cocktail?

INGREDIENTS: • 30ml Appleton Estate Signature Blend • 15ml Appleton Estate Rare Blend • 25ml fresh lime juice • 45 to 60ml freshly pressed sugar cane juice (depending on sweetness) • 4 to 6 leaves of bruised/muddled fresh lemon myrtle leaves METHOD: Shake the two high quality rums and then strain over a large block of ice or good quality rocks. GARNISH: A few leaves of fresh lemon myrtle and a spray of lemon myrtle tincture.

inspiration

GIN O’CLOCK A

hidden gem lurks in the back lanes of Sydney’s Neutral Bay. Tonic Lane – café by day, ‘ginoteria’ by night – has quietly been building what must be one of the country’s largest Australian gin offerings. Opening on World Gin Day in 2016, Tonic Lane’s raison d’être is to promote Australian gin distilleries. Starting off with 22 Aussie gins just over a year ago, this number has now grown to 86. This Australian focus goes beyond the gin selection, with the bar supporting Aussie tonic water as well – in particular CAPI and Strangelove – and rotating beers and wines seasonally, promoting local wineries and craft breweries.

Former area manager for Bourke St Bakery and Tonic Lane owner Lain Tapsall told BARS&clubs that she’s been a gin lover for most of her life, and has parlayed that passion (combined with a strong hospitality background) into opening a place of her own. Unsurprisingly, gin and tonics have been a big seller at Tonic

Lane – but Tapsall says a larger portion of sales have actually been signature ‘Roadtrips’. “Other bars might call them flight paths – but we keep it very Australian,” she explains. “People get a little tasting board with three 10ml shots of three different gins from our range. “They can choose the gins, or we can choose for them, and there’s a few on the menu that we’ve designed that revolve around themes, whether it be barrel-aged gins, sloe gins, navy strength gin and we give them the tonic and the garnish and the ice on the side so it’s a little more theatrical.” Regular gin nights are also a hit with locals, helping to spread the word about local Australian distilleries. An eclectic cocktail list of “gin spins on classics” has been designed by head bartender Jamie Nairn, and regulars can also work their way through a ‘Gin Passport’ which is stamped each time they sample a new drop. Tapsall also explains that she’s currently working towards onselling the gins too: “That’s the next part of my business plan, getting my online license so people will be able to purchase a gin and have it sent out – with a little gift pack of Australian tonic water as well.”

BARS&clubs 15

EST 2010

new faces

Brent Van Den Bogaardt, Papa Gede’s (NSW)

I became a bartender because… I needed a job whilst I was studying and I’ve never looked back. My service weapon is… My terrible jokes. The best part of the industry is… The people one meets, on both sides of the bar. The worst part is… It’s easy to slip into an unhealthy lifestyle of being nocturnal and eating poorly. The international bar I want to visit is… Carousel Bar in New Orleans. If I could serve someone famous it would be… Ernest Hemingway. The cocktail I would make cool again is… The Tuxedo. So many punters these days ask for their martinis extra dry with just a whisper of vermouth, while there’s a delicious dry option in the Tuxedo with a proper slug of Fino. Drinkers are paying attention to… Their phones mostly, but also new and interesting flavours and ingredients. If I ruled the world, I would make everyone… Enjoy a couple of drinks. Those who go without are missing out on a wonderful time!

Luke Rayner, Netherworld (QLD)

I became a bartender because… Food to buy and bills to pay. The best part of the industry is… Probably the community; it’s hard to walk into a bar and not know at least one person. The worst part is… Rude customers. The international bar I want to visit is… Dead Rabbit in NYC feels like an obvious choice, but I’d like to go back to Bradipop in Rimini. If I could serve someone famous it would be… Bill Murray or Stephen Fry. The cocktail I would make cool again is… London Calling. Drinkers are paying attention to… My shake. If I ruled the world, I would make everyone… Have good oral hygiene, adopt a dog and know Thin Lizzy’s ‘The Boys Are Back In Town’.

Letitia O’brien, The Wild Rover (NSW)

I became a bartender because… In the beginning like most people it was just to pay the bills, but since working at the Rover I’ve gained a passion for all things whiskey and cocktails. My service weapon is… The bar is my stage and everyone is welcome to a show, even if they hate my dance moves. The best part of the industry is… Working with legends and making people smile. The worst part is… I think it can always come down to poor management that effects someone’s ability in the industry. Thankfully I don’t have that problem at the Rover! The international bar I want to visit is… Big fan of all things Oscar Wilde so the Oscar Wilde Bar in London is top of the list. If I could serve someone famous it would be… Chelsea Handler hands down. The cocktail I would make cool again is… The El Capitan, it’s basically a Pisco Manhattan... mmm. Drinkers are paying attention to… Anything new, exciting and shiny. If I ruled the world I would make everyone… Dance with me like no-one is watching.

Reuben Beasley-Palmer, Black Pearl (VIC)

I became a bartender because… I fell into it after moving from Adelaide to Melbourne, and wanted to make some money. My service weapon is… Walking into work with a smile and a good attitude. The best part of the industry is… The equal parts strange and amazing things that can take place on shift. The worst part is… Lack of sleep. I love to sleep! And not having a wider selection of food after finishing work... 7/11 could work on their offering. The international bar I want to visit is… Every single one in New York. If I could serve someone famous it would be… Bill Murray, Robert De Niro & Johnny Depp – that’d be an interesting conversation! The cocktail I would make cool again is… White Russian. Drinkers are paying attention to… The range of local and indigenous produce bartenders are playing with these days. Atmosphere and environment are always an important component to guests as well. If I ruled the world I would make everyone… More London Callings, and more Hip-Hop. BARS&clubs 17

classic cocktail

THE BRAMBLE T

he Bramble was invented at the iconic Fred’s Club in Soho in the mid-1980s by Dick Bradsell, a man credited with reviving the cocktail scene in London. And while it may not have reached the heights of his most famous creation – the headline-stealing Espresso Martini – it is nonetheless one of the signature creations of the ‘cocktail king’. The mixture of dry gin and blackberries just screams springtime in Britain, and it’s said that the name is derived from the winding, circuitous route the Crème De Mûre takes once it’s poured, from the top to the bottom of the glass, as if it were scrambling through brambles. To enhance this bleeding effect, make sure to use crushed ice, which will also melt faster

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than ice cubes and add a bit of extra liquid to the mix. In Australia, one of the most famous variations of the cocktail is the Blackstone Bramble at Dead Ringer in Sydney, which swaps out gin for umeshu (plum liqueur) and blackberries for cherries, keeping the alcohol content low while adding a Japanese twist. And if you’re out of Crème De Mûre – or don’t have it on hand – you can swap it out for Chambord. Simple to make and visually appealing – with a nice mix of sweet sour notes – it’s easy to see why the Bramble has reached the status of a modern classic. And it’s just the ticket as the seasons change and the days start to lengthen as we head into spring.

THE BRAMBLE Glass: Rocks Ingredients: 40ml Dry gin 10ml Simple sugar syrup 15ml Lemon juice 15ml Crème De Mûre Method: Combine the gin, syrup and lemon juice in a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake vigorously and strain over the glass filled with crushed ice. Finally, drizzle the Crème De Mûre over the drink to provide the necessary ‘bleeding’ effect. Garnish: Blackberries and a lemon wedge.

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RUM TO PARADISE Short of jetting off to an island paradise, sipping on a Tiki cocktail has to be one of the easiest forms of escapism around. Joe Sinagra takes a look at the Tiki revival in recent years, the fundamentals of Tiki culture, and how you can apply them in your bar.

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tiki

iki has been on the comeback for many years now. Its revival has excited many bartenders keen to throw off the suspenders and flat caps in favour of colourful Hawaiian shirts. Guests too are excited by the Tiki movement; bored by classic cocktails they seek a more exciting and stimulating environment provided by the modern Tiki bar. To be successful, the modern Tiki bar must capture the true essence of what the godfathers of Tiki set out to create, like Don the Beachcomber and Trader Vic who created true paradises in areas that needed them. TIKI HISTORY: A CRASH COURSE Tiki started with Don the Beachcomber. In the mid-1930s, Earnest Raymond Beaumont-Gantt was building himself a reputation tending bar and creating amazing rum based cocktails. These ‘Rum Rhapsodies’ gained him fame and he used that fame to launch his own Polynesian themed restaurant. Don had hit upon a winning idea: giving people an escape, and a place to go and forget about the real world for a while. This is the true magic of Tiki. Not only was his idea great, but teamed up with his expertise with rum cocktails and his flair for exciting and intriguing names (like the Missionary’s Downfall) he gave the people what they needed, a tropical themed escape where they could hide from the doldrums of the Great Depression. While Don may be the father of Tiki, Victor Bergeron, who went by Trader Vic, took it to the next level. Vic was a born showman who took his sense of theatre and really applied it to the Tiki model that Don had created. He began to create Tiki myths and legends (starting with himself, of course) like the character of Trader Vic, telling his customers tall tales about losing his leg to a shark and inviting guests to stab his wooden leg for a laugh. In reality he had lost his leg to tuberculosis as a child. The Trader set out to provide his guests with unending entertainment and excitement, not only with his drinks but also in the way he interacted with them. RUM AND TIKI’S RELATIONSHIP OF CONVENIENCE When asked about Tiki culture today, most people’s first association would be rum – but Tiki is far more than just rum. In fact, rum’s association with Tiki began out of necessity, the spirit being cheap and plentiful just as Tiki was beginning to find its feet. It was far cheaper for a bar owner to purchase quality rum than a whisky or other spirit of similar quality, so Tiki bartenders became rum experts and learnt to layer flavours to create stunning and complex drinks. True tiki bartenders are experts at layering flavours within drinks, and their drinks are balanced masterpieces that showcase the sum of the ingredients used. This began to change in the 1970s as consumer habits changed and cheaper, mass-produced, lowquality ingredients like sour mix were flooding the market, with bars starting to serve overly sweet and fruity drinks and trying to pass them off as Tiki. TIKI IN 2017 In the modern day there has been a return to quality Tiki ingredients. Traditional syrups like Falernum, a traditional Barbadian lime, ginger and clove syrup; Orgeat, a French almond syrup with added rose or orange blossom, and true Grenadine – not the brightly coloured, but lacking in flavour red-coloured syrup – have all been making comebacks and are now readily available to

JOE’S SIX

TIKI CLASSICS 1. MAI TAI: Perhaps no other drink has been more widely debated than the Mai Tai. Both of the Tiki greats, Don the Beachcomber and Trader Vic, lay claim to this heavenly Tiki classic, an alluring mix of dark rum, Orange Curaçao, Orgeat, sugar and lime. Originally cited as using a Wray and Nephew 17yo rum, which Trader Vic ‘recreated’ with a combination of Jamaican, West Indian and Martinique rums. 2. SCORPION BOWL: Taking from the tradition of sharing Kava bowls found throughout the Pacific, the Scorpion packs a sting to share between friends. Puerto Rican rum, brandy, orange and lemon juices all sweetened with the quintessentially Tiki Orgeat syrup. 3. FOG CUTTER: A Tiki classic that shows the depth of its creator’s talent. Not just a one-trick pony, this potent potion layers both gin and brandy in with a lighter style rum and a sweet sherry float – proving that not all Tiki drinks are just about rum. 4. DON’S ZOMBIE: There are many legends surrounding Don’s Zombie. Said to raise you from the dead but not quite to life, Don called his Zombie “a mender of broken dreams”. For years the Zombie’s secret was kept and many tried to recreate this heady blend of rums, grenadine, Pernod and the infamous Don’s Mix. It wasn’t until Jeff “Beachbum” Berry finally unlocked the secret recipe that we now all know: Don’s Mix was a grapefruit and cinnamon syrup. And remember: there’s always a two Zombie limit.... 5. SUFFERING BASTARD: Proving that not all Tiki classics are about heavily fruity combinations, the Suffering Bastard is definitely a lighter drink: gin and brandy shaken with Rose’s Lime Cordial and Angostura Bitters then topped with ginger beer. Refreshing and light for when you’ve had enough fruit juice for one night. 6. PAINKILLER: Created in 1971 at the Soggy Dollar Bar and trademarked in 1990 by Pusser’s Rum Company, the Painkiller is often at odds with bartenders who don’t agree with trademarking drinks. No matter your opinion the Painkiller is still tasty. Similar to a Piña Colada but with an aged rum to add some extra depth, and orange juice to add a little lightness and complexity. The traditional nutmeg garnish highlights the spice in the aged rum perfectly.

BARS&clubs 21

Lobo Plantation the modern bartender. Bartenders are now more than able to make classic, balanced Tiki-style drinks just as they existed during the height of their popularity, sparking an interest from a new generation of cocktail enthusiasts. And with this renewed interest, bartenders and bar owners are looking at ways to incorporate Tiki into their offering. Modern Tiki can be broken down into a few major technical aspects, starting with the drink. Great Tiki cocktails are complex and layered drinks that showcase the bartender’s understanding of each ingredient used. While they might appear to be loads of fruit and rum thrown together, the Tiki masters of old knew how to build flavours to complement each other without overpowering and over sweetening. There are numerous Tiki classics that use base ingredients other than rum that prove the depth of understanding that went into developing these creations. Alongside flavour profile there needs to be an understanding of the guests’ experience of the drink as a whole, not just as a taste but as a visual experience too – choice of glassware, garnish and preparation are dedicated as much attention as creating the drink itself. This technical understanding and approach that breaks down a cocktail to its various parts can be applied to almost any bar, regardless of whether it is a full-blown Tiki bar or not.

JUNGLE BIRD: Created towards the end of Tiki’s first heyday in roughly 1978 at the Aviary Bar in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. The Jungle Bird has become a bit of a bartender favourite utilising Campari which seldom appears in classic Tiki drinks. The key to this cocktail is the heavier-style rum with plenty of estery funk. INGREDIENTS: • 45ml Dark Jamaican Rum • 20ml Campari • 15ml Lime juice • 15 ml Sugar syrup • 120ml Pineapple juice METHOD: Shake with cubed ice and dump into a double old fashioned glass. GARNISH: An orange slice and cherry.

A TROPICAL ESCAPE Next we come to perhaps the most important part of Tiki and what makes it so relevant today: escapism. This is the make or break for great Tiki bars – nailing that feeling of being taken away from your regular life to a tropical paradise where you have no worries beyond what your next cocktail will be. This has resonance particularly in times of political and economic turmoil, which applies to the global mood today. Providing a mental escape for guests is key, something that many of the best Tiki bars in the country achieve, but in different ways. Hula Bula in Perth have created a complete immersion experience: bamboo, tropical plants and animal sounds played over the music all work to create a sense of being somewhere else than in the middle of the city. Sydney’s Cliff Dive makes fantastic use of their entrance to mentally separate the guest from Oxford St as they move down the staircase and past the tall Tiki before emerging into the bar area. These are just two bars that know and value this sense of escapism in modern Tiki. The final key to modern Tiki is guest interaction and engagement. Trader Vic knew the value of providing the guests with a good time, and would go out of his way to engage and entertain his guests knowing that this would build return customers and act as organic, word of mouth advertising. In the social media age, bars have an even greater opportunity to take advantage of this word of mouth approach by providing entertaining and engaging experiences to guests – whether that’s in the form of a giant volcano in the middle of the dance floor or the bartender toasting a cinnamon stick with a giant flame, à la Lobo Plantation in Sydney. Providing these sorts of experiences for your guests not only increases time spent inside your venue, but also fosters in them an emotional connection to your bar. Modern Tiki is all about learning from the masters of old – how we interpret the lessons in what made Tiki such a huge fashion for so long can help the modern bartender be successful. These principles are tremendously applicable today given our current economic climate, which bears a strong resemblance to the economic hardships at the beginning of Tiki’s creation. Offering guests a small escape from their day-to-day worries, and their very own tiki mug of paradise, is the key to modern Tiki.

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BARS&clubs 25

IN DEFENCE OF COCKTAILS AND FOOD (BUT NOT TOGETHER) Fred Siggins knows his cocktails, and he knows his food. But if he had his way, you’d never see them paired together.

ocktails and food do not go together. The idea of pairing the two, encouraged by booze brands’ desire to capitalise on the foodie movement and adopted by some high-end bars and restaurants, is a mismatch we should put behind us. Let me start with a couple of caveats. Firstly, I’m not talking about bar food. Simple and smashable, even the best bar food

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is there in service of the drinks at hand and the conversations they engender. I’m also not talking about aperitif and digestive cocktails served at restaurants, or straight spirits, which have their place in certain meals. Secondly, I mean no disrespect to my colleagues who have pursued food and cocktail pairing, and in doing so have advanced our craft exponentially. I’m not saying it can’t

be done well, because it can. I am saying it shouldn’t be done. And here’s why: food and cocktails hold very different places in our culture. To force them together is to miss the point of, and disrespect them both. IF IT AIN’T BROKE… Food is love, a direct and deliberate nurturing of the body and soul. Food is family, the ritual of breaking bread

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binding us together socially. Food is civilization, the act of cooking one of the first things to separate us from other animals. Cocktails are none of these things. A good plate of food is already complete, with all the elements working in harmony. To disrupt that with a cocktail, and all that booze and sugar and acid, is overkill and culture clash. A good cocktail should also be a complete set of balanced elements; to deliberately unbalance one just so it can complement the other is a waste of time. On the other hand, naturally fermented beverages are both lightweight and complex, making them ideal for food pairing. And while valiant attempts at recreating these factors in cocktail form have been made, it’s like reinventing the wheel in a different shape. There’s a 10,000-year history of wine, beer, sake, etc. evolving alongside food, resulting in truly incredible matches, and a whole industry of sommeliers dedicated to finding new ones.

THE FUNDAMENTAL FRIVOLITY OF A COCKTAIL Cocktails also hold huge cultural importance. Despite its specifically American origins, like hip-hop or rock’n’roll, cocktail culture speaks to us all. Invented at a time when life was becoming more complicated as folks started working in factories rather than on farms, cocktails represented escape. Stressed and tired, you could pop into the bar and let the worries of the day melt like the ice in your Collins. A smile and a story, a delicious whack of booze and sugar, and the switch is flipped. You are now a man (or woman, cocktail bars being one of the first places where the sexes interacted socially) of leisure again, free to return to your loving family or stay and be among friends. So important was this cultural movement that even after prohibition the cocktail lived on. Our grandparents courted over scorpion bowls, and served terrible highballs

“A good plate of

food is already complete, with all the elements working in harmony. To disrupt that with a cocktail, and all that booze and sugar and acid, is overkill and culture

clash.”

BARS&clubs 27

“The fundamental importance of cocktails is that, unlike food, they are unnecessary. The deliberate frivolity, all the silly names and garnishes, is the very thing that

makes them beautiful.”

at cocktail parties, because a mixed drink, far more than beer or wine, says: “It’s okay. Relax. We’re just here to have fun.” The fundamental importance of cocktails is that, unlike food, they are unnecessary. The deliberate frivolity, all the silly names and garnishes, is the very thing that makes them beautiful. Like a bunch of flowers or a feather in your cap, cocktails are a small luxury that lends colour to our lives. BARTENDER OR MAGICIAN? In the realm of the bon vivant, the raconteur and the rogue, cocktails are James Bond with his martini, Earnest Gant with his Zombie, Jerry Thomas with his Blazer. The stories of their origins are deliberately outlandish, and usually untrue, but who needs truth? The point is to be entertained, enthralled, surprised and impressed. To take a holiday

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from life for the cost of a few bucks and the time it takes to drink a Mai Tai. The cocktail is our weapon of choice, we keepers of the fantasy. Ringleaders, soothsayers, magicians and hosts, we are unnecessary too, my friends, which makes our company all the sweeter. That is the craft of the bartender, and it’s one of which we should be proud. To put cocktails alongside food denies us our true calling. It’s a self-conscious attempt to make us seem more important, while failing to recognise that we already are. So leave the chefs to do their thing, the sommeliers too. They’re good at it. They don’t need us. And we don’t need them. Fred Siggins is product and brand strategist for Sullivans Cove Distillery. A former chef and bartender, food is his best friend, and cocktails his lifelong love affair.

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TIKI TIME

A taste of paradise

COCKTAILS & FOOD?

Not together, says Fred Siggins

AMERICAN WHISKEY Its origin and virtues

ZUBROWKA

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bitters & syrups

YOUR SPICE RACK BEHIND THE BAR B

itters and syrups are a key element of any good bar or bartender’s repertoire. And while they each provide a different flavour element and sensation, they’re really two sides of the same coin. “Bitters and syrups are used in cocktails most of the time for similar reasons,” says Group Bars Manager for Applejack Hospitality, Lachy Sturrock. “That is, to bring complex flavours and create somewhat of a balance in a cocktail.” Joe Fee, fourth generation owner of Fee Brothers, would agree: “Think of bitters and syrups as your ‘spice rack behind the bar’”, he says. “You have taste receptors in your mouth – this is nothing you don’t know. Salty, sour, sweet, bitter; flavour is like setting the equalizer on your stereo. One does not slide down the bass totally, it would kill the full experience of the music. The same is true of beverages – tickling all the taste buds is the important part of experiencing flavour, both in dinner and in cocktails.” BITTERS Bitters were originally formulated in the 1700s by physicians and sold as medicinal tonics and remedies for problems with digestion or circulation. To make them go down a bit easier, people started adding a spirit too – and the cocktail was 30 BARS&clubs

born. Of the numerous bitters companies that were started in this early era, one that still remains is the iconic Angostura. Tanya Mah, Brand Manager for Angostura at island2island, says that “bitters elevate cocktails by adding depth, flavour, and complexity to a cocktail”. Of course, classics like the Old Fashioned or Manhattan just wouldn’t be the same without aromatic bitters – it’s an essential ingredient – but Mah also says experimentation is key. “We encourage bartenders to experiment by adding bitters to even the simplest drinks to see how it transforms the final product into something much more exciting.” While Angostura has withstood the test of time, and is now ubiquitous in bars worldwide – and has even started to be used by chefs in sauces and marinades – in 2017, there is a wealth of brands nipping at its heels. “There’s a good range of bitters out there now,” says Sturrock. “The key brands we stock are the old faithfuls from Angostura (aromatic, orange), some of the Fee Brothers range (rhubarb, grapefruit) and the Bittermens range (Xocolatl Mole)”. For those looking to expand their repertoire, Only Bitters, with a popular online shop and storefront ‘The Bitters Lab’ in Fitzroy, is a good place to start, offering over 500 types of cocktail bitters.

ANGOSTURA:

URBAN MYTHS AND LEGENDS The distinctive over-sized label of Angostura aromatic bitters has remained unchanged through the decades, coming about entirely by accident. Rushing to get their first order out the door, one of the Siegert brothers ordered the bottles and another ordered labels, but when the time came for production, they discovered that the sizes didn’t match. Fortuitously, the brothers decided not to rectify the error, which has led to Angostura owning the most recognizable bitters label around the globe.

JOE FEE: BITTERS HERITAGE CAN YOU TELL US A BIT ABOUT THE HISTORY OF FEE BROTHERS? “My sister Ellen and I are the fourth generation owners of Fee Brothers. The original four brothers were Owen, John, James and Joseph. John was our great grandfather – he and his brothers sold cigars, produce and other stuff. They sold wine and liquor. They began importing wine and liquor. They eventually gave up the store and stuck to distribution of wine and liquor, and soon they also had their own winery. “Along comes prohibition. My grandfather, John Junior (generation two) started making flavours to dress up illegal liquor. When prohibition came to an end, Grampa tried to get back into commercial wine making, but everything was arrayed against him. So, he dropped the wine and stuck with the non-alcoholic stuff – and here we are.” WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR FAVOURITE COCKTAILS USING YOUR BITTERS? “Wow, I am sorta like Switzerland – who am I to pick a favourite? But, if you want to try a great one: take the classic recipe for an Old Fashioned. Maintain the basic recipe, but we are gonna swap out some ingredients. Instead of using a whiskey, use a good dark rum. Instead of mashing a sugar cube, perhaps 1/2 teaspoon maple syrup. Add a little vermouth. Rather that aromatic bitters, use Fee Brothers Black Walnut Bitters. This will be a whole different cocktail, but, it will be fantastic.”

bitters & syrups

Karel ‘Papi’ Reyes, MONIN Brand Ambassador for Australia (photo credit: Melbourne Cocktails)

BRAND SYRUPS VS HOMEMADE: TOMAS VIKARIO’S TAKE

“From grapefruit and Earl Grey tea infusions to basil syrup, both bartenders and producers have learned to innovate. For bartenders who make their own, bespoke creativity is the key. For those who use shop-bought products, stability and consistency win the day. But as drinks fashions change, bartenders and their small-batch creations can react much faster to new flavour trends. The large production houses/brands like MONIN though, have the skills to make a consistent product with a much longer shelf life. The advantage of using brand syrups is consistency. You can always be sure the Brix level will be exact, which is very hard to do from homemade syrups.”

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SYRUPS Like bitters, syrups also play a vital role in balancing a cocktail. Tomas Vikario, Marketing & Beverage Innovation Manager for MONIN, says that while syrup’s main role is to add necessary sweetness to a drink (two parts spirit, one part sour and part sweet), the right syrup can also bring new flavours and add colour. “Syrups are a terrific way to introduce a measure of sweetness into your drinks while simultaneously imparting any number of unique flavours,” he says. “Sugar syrup suppresses the intensity of bitter, acidic and salty flavours. But it does more than that; it makes those other tastes more pleasurable than if they were stand-alone.” Syrups can also be used in more creative, technical ways: in addition

to developing different shrubs, they can be used to create mists, foams, homemade sodas, and flavoured ice. And while it’s been on-trend for some time for bars to create their own syrups from scratch – uncovering more innovative flavours that might be on offer in pre-bottled products – these syrups can also be used as a great base to create new flavours, by infusing them with fresh spices or herbs. “Syrups-wise the key brand out there from what I can see is the Crawley’s Bartender Syrups – they’re a great range of different syrups perfect for mixing in cocktails,” adds Sturrock. And with more bitters and syrups on the market in Australia than ever before, there’s never been a better time to add to your range and get experimental.

MAKING SOURS, MANHATTANS, SLINGS & REPUTATIONS SINCE 1824.

Orders & enquiries call our hotline: 1300 559 929

american whiskey

AMERICAN BEAUTY Many of you will know the basic history of American whiskey. But if you’re in need of a refresher, The Clock Hotel’s resident whiskey expert and Bar Manager Glynn Firth is here to get you up to speed.

ou can’t talk about American whiskey without talking about bourbon and the state of Kentucky. Ironically, however, the world’s best-selling American whiskey is not a bourbon and is not from Kentucky. Jack Daniel’s, with its distinctive square bottle and black label, is a Tennessee whiskey. Tennessee whiskies are filtered through ten feet of sugar maple charcoal before they are put into barrels for aging – known as the ‘Lincoln County Process’ – with the purpose of removing impurities and mellowing out the flavour. Tennessee whiskies are distinctively different to bourbon due to this process. Funnily enough, none of the distilleries that make Tennessee whiskey are in Lincoln County anymore as the county borders have all been re-drawn over time. THE HISTORY Irish and Scottish settlers brought whiskey and the knowledge of how to make it to North America. As they founded farmsteads and began to grow their crops, they did what they had always done and turned their excess product into something that would last for longer and not be eaten by all the animals: whiskey.

THE SPELLING Let’s get this out of the way early on because it confuses a lot of people. When spelling whisk(e)y it doesn’t matter where you are or where you are from – it matters where the whisk(e)y is from. Irish and American whiskeys are spelled with an E, the rest of the world without (without opening the can of worms that is Maker’s Mark). The Irish say the Scottish are too lazy to write the extra letter, while the Scottish say that writing the extra letter wastes valuable drinking time!

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A POSTCARD FROM LYNCHBURG, TENNESSEE. FUNNY HOW WE NEVER GET ANY ‘RETURN TO SENDER’. EVERY DROP FROM A SINGLE SOURCE, LYNCHBURG, TENNESSEE.

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american whiskey

At first, most whiskies would have been made from rye. Rye makes a spicier kind of whiskey than bourbon and the majority of the oldest classical American whiskey cocktails we know today would have originally been made using rye whiskey (or even brandy). In fact, the first drink to be known as a cocktail was made with brandy. The Sazerac, invented by Antoine Peychaud (of Peychaud’s Bitters fame) was made using a two-sided egg cup for measuring the ingredients. This tool was known as a ‘coquetier’, from where we derived the word cocktail. By 1873 the brandy had been swapped out for rye whiskey. THE SILVER LINING OF PROHIBITION Between January 1920 and December 1933 the production and sale of alcohol in America was prohibited by a federal law called the Volstead Act. As much as this was a negative thing for the drinkers of that era, it

has given us so many things to add to the culture of bars and bartending today, from speakeasy style bars with hidden entrances to cocktails like the Mary Pickford, Last Word, and the Gin Rickey. In addition to organized crime, another thing that came from Prohibition was a high-strength unaged whiskey which came to be known as Moonshine or White Lightning – so named for being made under the cover of darkness, or for how fast it was made, delivered, and consumed. The roots of another American icon can also be traced back to Prohibition. Bootleggers would modify their cars to make them faster than the police – but once Prohibition ended they continued to meet up to race each other and swap modification techniques. This was the very beginning of what we know today as NASCAR. BOURBON’S ORIGINS The American government ironed

out specific laws to regulate the production of what came to be known as ‘The American Spirit.’ As a result, bourbon is the second most regulated spirit in the world, behind tequila. And while there are a number of rules when it comes to bourbon production, the three main rules to remember are: •B ourbon must be made in the United States of America. •B ourbon must be made of at least 51% corn. (51% rye when talking about rye whiskey) •B ourbon must be aged in brand new oak barrels. There are a few stories about where the name bourbon might have come from, but in my opinion the most likely story is one that many people haven’t heard. Two men known as the Tarascon brothers, from south of Cognac in France, migrated to Louisville and started shipping local whiskey down the Ohio River to the bustling port city of New Orleans. The brothers knew that if Kentuckians put their

LYNCHBURG LEMONADE Named after the town where you’ll find the Jack Daniel distillery, this Collins-style drink just screams Tennessee. INGREDIENTS: • 30ml Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey • 30ml Triple Sec/Cointreau • 30ml lemon juice METHOD: Shake and strain into a highball glass full of ice and top with lemonade. GARNISH: A few leaves of fresh lemon myrtle and a spray of lemon myrtle tincture.

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american whiskey

whiskey into charred barrels it would appeal to New Orleans’ French population, as it would taste more like cognac or ‘French brandy’. The Tarascon brothers started selling this whiskey on New Orleans’ famous strip, Bourbon Street, and as people started to ask for ‘that whiskey they sell on Bourbon Street’ it gradually evolved into ‘that bourbon whiskey’. MINT JULEPS AND HORSE RACING While bourbon can be made anywhere in the United States, the majority comes from the state of Kentucky where there are famously more barrels of bourbon than there are residents. Kentucky is also the home of American horse racing and one of the world’s greatest horse races – the Kentucky Derby, where the official drink is the Mint Julep making it the quintessential bourbon cocktail. For the past 19 years, Woodford Reserve have sponsored the Derby and every year make thousands of mint juleps for the event, including a $1,000 Julep made with exotic and expensive ingredients that changes yearly. SCOTCH’S DEBT TO BOURBON One last thing to add: many people turn their noses up at bourbon and go straight to the Scotch single malt whiskies, but if it wasn’t for bourbon that product just wouldn’t be what it is today. Scotch whisky producers used exsherry barrels to age their whiskies. During Prohibition, the demand for Scotch went through the roof as it was being smuggled across the ocean to satisfy those Americans who couldn’t get hold of their beloved alcohol. The demand for barrels increased exponentially and there just wasn’t enough sherry casks to go around. After prohibition and when the laws for single use barrels came in there suddenly became an abundance of barrels. Enter just about every product that uses barrels for aging: rum, tequila, even olive oil. So, even if Scotch is your favourite, you should be at least a little grateful for its cousin on the other side of the pond.

BARS&clubs caught up with Lance Essihos, the new Assistant Bar Manager at Sydney's Grain Bar, to hear his thoughts on the American whiskey category.

WHAT EXCITES YOU MOST ABOUT AMERICAN WHISKEY? Lance Essihos: Well, the history of American whiskey and how it has become such a success around the globe is pretty exciting. I love it because it’s very versatile in mixing cocktails and very easy to sip on its own. WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE AMERICAN WHISKIES AND WHY? LE: Knob Creek Rye: I enjoy the spiciness of Knob Creek drank neat. And it holds up well in an Old Fashioned, and even better in a stronger drink like a Manhattan – it has some strong legs to stand on. My personal favourite American whiskey is Rittenhouse Rye, it’s my go-to in a Manhattan. It is a fruitier rye with banana, peaches and white pepper flavour, which makes for the perfect combo of fruit and spice. It’s a great rye for people who are used to drinking bourbon but want to make the step to rye. Lastly, Buffalo Trace is my favourite bourbon – I feel it’s an underrated product to be honest. It’s on the sweeter side yet has a bit of spice and some nice flavours of brown sugar, toffee and vanilla, and makes for an amazing Old Fashioned or Whiskey Smash! A CUSTOMER HAS NEVER TRIED AMERICAN WHISKEY BEFORE – WHAT DO YOU SUGGEST THEY START WITH? LE: If you’ve never tried American whiskey before, you can’t go wrong with Makers Mark. I was taught to make the Old Fashioned more than a decade ago with this bourbon. It’s very sweet and smooth with a strong vanilla flavour, so it’s a good start for someone who wants to try American whiskey or any other whisk(e)y for that matter. WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE AMERICAN WHISKEY CLASSIC COCKTAIL, HOW WOULD YOU MAKE IT AND WHAT FOOD WOULD YOU PAIR IT WITH? LE: My favourite American whisky cocktail is a Manhattan, stirred down with Rittenhouse Rye, Antica Formula sweet vermouth and Angostura bitters, served neat or on the rocks. It pairs nicely with rich foods like a charcuterie board with loads of cured meats, and helps bring out the flavours of both. WHAT ABOUT A MODERN AMERICAN WHISKEY COCKTAIL CREATION – WHAT’S IN IT AND HOW DO YOU MAKE IT? LE: My modern American whisky cocktail creation is called the Southern Belle. It’s made like a traditional sour, with Bulleit Rye, fresh pear juice, Demerara sugar, whisky bitters, egg white and lemon, served in a coupette. Then I spray a Laphroaig Scotch mist on top to add a smoky scent to the nose. It’s very fresh and flavourful yet simple, and is new to the menu here at Grain Bar. HAVE YOU NOTICED ANY TRENDS, EITHER IN CONSUMPTION OR PRODUCTION, WITH AMERICAN WHISKEY OVER THE PAST COUPLE OF YEARS? LE: The comeback of the Old Fashioned over the past three or four years has been remarkable. I’ve seen so many different methods and styles, from fat washes to infusions and barrel aging… it’s really become a staple to the modern drinker. We’ve also seen different classics surface again over the last few years like the Manhattan, the Sazerac, Juleps and even the Whiskey Smash. There’s so many twists to these amazing drinks that it’s created a very fun environment for people to explore. It also provides a fun history lesson and a unique story to how American whiskey has helped shape and create the cocktail scene that we know today.

BARS&clubs 37

ESCAPE TO FIJI Sell rum, go to Fiji. Sounds pretty sweet right?

oca-Cola Amatil’s latest venture through its ‘The Exchange’ program, The RUM Co. of Fiji Club, will see two deserving bar staff flown to Fiji to tour the idyllic island distillery. The RUM Co. of Fiji Club involves 20 off-premise and 20 on-premise participants from around Australia, who have been tasked with promoting and selling the RUM Co. of Fiji’s award-winning lineup of rums and liqueurs, RATU and BATI. It is the latest program from CCA’s ‘The Exchange’ team who operate as bar consultants, and focus their efforts on three key things: increasing venue revenue, increasing foot traffic and driving efficiencies within venues. “There are many ways to describe what we do at The Exchange,” says Mat Smith, National Business Manager –

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On Premise. “But we’re simply on a never ending mission to work with you and help make your bar be the best it can be.” “Now that might sound a bit over-the-top, but everything we do from tailored events, bespoke activations, training and mentoring through to the beer and spirits we add to our portfolio, all of it is geared to achieve one simple thing; success. And then some.” BARS&clubs spent an afternoon with two of the on-premise participants in Sydney, Webster’s Bar in Newtown and Papa Gede’s in the CBD, which have incorporated the RATU rums into both of their cocktail offerings as well as on the back bar. Webster’s in Newtown are having success with the RATU Coconut Daiquiri, which combines 45ml of RATU Spiced Premium Aged Rum with 30ml fresh lime, 15ml

rum

Falernum, and 60ml of the fresh coconut water served in a branded coconut. “BATI is really good for a house rum and to have the option to step up a customer with something like RATU is great,” explained Ray from Webster’s. “It makes a great cocktail, and there’s a different choice on all levels which you don’t get from a lot of companies – there’s the Spiced Rum and then each of the different SKUs across the one brand.” Points are earned in the RUM Co. Fiji competition through a variety of performance metrics, including cases purchased during the promotion, brand visibility (through RATU displays, listed cocktails, back bar displays, or RUM Co. of Fiji specific events or activations) and are also allocated by a mystery shopper. Running from March 1st until August 31st this year, the highest scoring venue will win a trip to Fiji and the distillery, which lies at the foot of the evocatively named Sleeping Giant Mountain. Two staff members from the winning venue will tour the distillery in Lautoka, meet the master distiller Liam Costello and then select a barrel of rum to be bottled for all of the participating venues within the RUM Co. Club. The trip will run in October, with exact dates TBC. Papa Gede’s in the CBD is also successfully incorporating the Rum Co. of Fiji’s range of rums and liqueurs into their drinks list, with the bar’s voodoo theme

a good fit with the RUM Co. and RATU's obvious island credentials. “We’ve mainly been using it as a cocktail base,” Papa Gede’s bartender Brent van den Bogaardt told BARS&clubs. “On the shelf people aren’t really familiar enough with it yet to order it from the back bar, but I think introducing them through cocktails has been a really good way to get them on to it.” Papa Gede’s Shaman Shake is one such drink, a twist on a Fog Cutter that Brent says RATU works “really well” as a base for. “We’ve also got it listed on the menu in our Tiki Bastard cocktail – a lot of people don’t even know that Fiji makes rum so it’s been interesting to see their reaction to that. “We were using it before on our last menu as well and what we found sometimes is substituting it in for a classic can work really well, so we started recommending RATU daiquiris. “One regular has fallen in love with the RATU Signature Premium Rum Liqueur in particular, which is why that bottle behind me is almost empty, and it’s a favourite on this side of the bar too!” In terms of a dangling carrot, does it get much better than a trip to Fiji? Best of luck to all the RUM Co. Club participants, and keep an eye out on the BARS&clubs website in early September for the announcement of the winning venue.

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beer

NEW FRONTIERS FOR INDIA PALE ALE How did a centuries-old beer style become the darling of the modern craft beer industry? Jeremy Sambrooks swirls, sniffs, sips and investigates.

“T

THE ENGLISHMAN AND THE AMERICAN hat’s it! Give up, people, because beer style no Although the style has been reinvented by American longer matters. In the wake of white IPAs, black craft brewers, India Pale Ale was originally an English IPAs, Belgian IPAs and session IPAs, we might beer, named after its popularity with the Indian export as well accept it: All beers are now IPAs! No more fussing market. Based on the best available information, we with ales vs lagers; now we just have warm-fermented know the earliest English IPAs were six to seven per and cold-fermented IPAs. Thirsty for a Pilsner? Have this cent alcohol, very pale in colour, heavily dry hopped and cold-fermented session IPA instead. Trappist ale? Nope, well-aged before consumption. The style has evolved that’s a non-secular, high malt IPA.” These are the words over time, becoming more malty, less hoppy, and lower of award-winning beer writer, Stephen Beaumont, who in alcohol. Today, some English breweries make beers on his blog, Beaumont Drinks, captured the feelings of bearing the IPA name that are barely distinguishable many regarding the seemingly ever-expanding definition from low gravity bitters, although most don’t consider of India Pale Ale. them to be true India Pale Ales. Peruse the shelves of a well-stocked liquor store and Mark Rivers is the co-owner and brewer at Three you’ll see a wide array of beers with IPA in their names, Rivers Brewing Company, a small and relatively including, but not necessarily limited to: English IPA, new operation in Mandurah, an hour south of Perth. American IPA, Belgian IPA, German IPA, Australian IPA, Rivers brews a variety of traditional, true-to-style double/imperial IPA, session IPA, white IPA, black IPA, beers including his King Henry IPA. “Like most of our red IPA, rye IPA, fruited IPA and wet-hopped IPA. It could philosophy and ethos, King Henry IPA is traditional,” be argued these days that the IPA acronym is being used says Rivers. “It’s an English rather than American IPA, so more as a marketing term than anything else, riding on it’s quite a bit more subdued the back of the success of craft with less obvious hop aroma beer’s most popular style. and a very late bitterness in While the 2016 Australian the mouth. Of all our beers, Craft Beer Survey showed IPA including our stout and brown to be second to pale ale on ale, King Henry is probably the local front, in the much the one that ages most larger American market, interestingly. We recently there is no doubt that IPA is found an old bottle from quite king. According to the market a few years back – the caramel research firm IRI Worldwide, in You might also like these beers: flavours had turned really 2015 IPA was clearly the bestAMERICAN PALE ALE: A clean, fresh, hoppy beer Christmas cakey and port-like. selling craft beer style, with a with enough malt backbone to carry moderate to high Quite different from when 26 per cent volume share of hop character and bitterness. fresh but still a great drop.” the sector, up from eight per EXTRA SPECIAL BITTER: Also known as ESB and Although American IPAs cent in 2008. English pale ale, this is a highly drinkable ale, balanced are named after the original The Brewers Association between malt and hop with firm bitterness and a touch English beers, in character they (BA) has been hesitant to add of fermentation character. usually have more in common many of the IPA sub styles into AMBER/RED ALE: Similar to American pale ale but with American pale ales. When its guidelines as most are fairly with more body, more caramel richness and a balance compared to English IPAs, new and could turn out to be more towards malt than hops. Stronger, hoppier American IPAs typically have fads that don’t stand the test versions are often called Red Ales. less fermentation character, of time. In the 2016 update of allowing for a cleaner its beer style guidelines, the AMERICAN BARLEYWINE: A well-hopped American expression of hops. They are BA lists just four IPA styles: interpretation of the richest and strongest ale style, often (but not always) higher English, American, imperial (or hop levels can approach those in double IPAs, but with in alcohol, higher in bitterness double) and session. significantly more body and malt character. and have an aroma dominated

IF YOU LIKE

INDIA PALE ALES

BARS&clubs 41

DRINK LOCAL Try these eight locally packaged India Pale Ales: 1. THREE RIVERS KING HENRY – a darker, more malt-focused English style IPA that ages well. 2. COLONIAL IPA AUSTRALIA – there’s 100 per cent Australian malt and hops in this light-coloured IPA. 3. RENAISSANCE BLACK THE RIPA – Black rye IPA with de-husked dark malt and New Zealand hops. 4. PIRATE LIFE IPA – full-bodied, orange-hued American IPA with a bright, fruity hop character. 5. PRANCING PONY RIPA – Aromatically hoppy, red-coloured IPA with a big malty body. 6. FERAL RAGING FLEM – Imperial strength Belgian IPA combines fruity esters with aromatic hops. 7. BATCH JUICY AS PHUCK IPA – New England IPA; cloudy and less bitter with a juicy hop aroma. 8. KAIJU AFTERMATH DOUBLE IPA – a ludicrously hopped American DIPA that clocks in at 9.1 per cent ABV.

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Batch bottles by American hops, which can be described as floral, citrusy, piney and resinous. The style is sometimes separated into two sub-styles: the malty, more balanced IPAs from America’s East Coast and drier, hoppier West Coast IPA, though in recent years, more brewers have been favouring the West Coast style, regardless of location. DOUBLE THE HOPS! Vinnie Cilurzo, the owner of Russian River Brewing Company, is credited with having invented the double (or imperial) IPA. In 1994, while working for Blind Pig Brewery, he brewed a beer called Inaugural Ale, which had 30 per cent more malt and double the hops of the brewery’s regular IPA. Larger breweries like Rogue Ales and Stone Brewing followed suit, releasing their own double IPAs and in 2001, now at Russian River, Cilurzo created the beer that

became the benchmark for the style – Pliny the Elder. Double IPAs are essentially stronger, hoppier versions of American IPA and are usually brewed with a portion of sugar, which is more fermentable than grain and helps to keep the body and sweetness down, allowing for maximum hop character and drinkability. Many Australian craft breweries have released double IPAs in recent times, including Kaiju! Beer, whose ‘ludicrously hopped’ Aftermath Double IPA clocks in at 9.1 per cent ABV. Kaiju’s head brewer, Nat Reeves – a hop head of the highest order – spoke to us about his love for all things IPA. “It was hoppy pale ales that got me into all grain brewing,” says Reeves. “After the first batch I thought, ‘this could use more hops’, then the next batch I thought, ‘this could use more hops’ – it was a slippery slope. Soon the pale ales

beer

were 7.5 per cent and hopped out the wazoo. Seeing as they didn’t fit into the pale ale style category anymore I realised it wasn’t pale ales my body required but IPAs. The best thing about brewing IPAs is tasting them fresh out of the tank. Yeah, they take a bit longer and have lower yields, but they’re worth it. All our beers are some variation of an IPA anyway, so I don’t really know any different.” On the other end of the scale is session IPA – a somewhat controversial style, as some argue that it is no different from American Pale Ale. Looking at the BA guidelines there is a lot of crossover between the styles, though the session IPA can be lower in alcohol (3.7 to five per cent), higher in bitterness and has a slightly wider range of colour. FADS, TRENDS AND THE FUTURE OF IPA With the growth in IPA’s popularity has come a string of new beers using the IPA acronym. Some are brewed with unusual malt bills, others use a more expressive yeast strain but what they all have in common is a liberal use of aromatic American and New World hops. One style that looks set to stay is Red IPA (sometimes called imperial red or imperial amber) which combines the hop profile of an American IPA with the heavier, sweeter malt body of an amber ale. Adelaide Hills craft brewers Prancing Pony recently had success with their take on the style with their India Red Ale being awarded the Supreme Champion prize at the International Beer Challenge in London last year. “Our 7.9 per cent India Red Ale was always going to be a winner,” says Corinna Steeb, CEO and cofounder of Prancing Pony Brewery. “We released the beer in 2014 and it turned out exactly as we imagined – you see, we develop the persona of our beers first and then the brewer makes it. Our India Red is fullbodied, red, voluminous, deep and complex – when you take a deep breath, you imagine a hot, sweet Indian summer night with ripe fruity flavours. Winning the Supreme

POUR IT OUT If ever there was a beer that was meant to be smelt, it must be India Pale Ale. By drinking it out of the wrong glass, or worse, straight out of the bottle or can, the drinker is denied a major part of the experience – the wonderful aroma of hops. The inward taper of a tulip glass helps to trap a beer’s aroma for your nose’s enjoyment, making it an excellent choice for IPAs. For the ultimate in IPA glassware, you can’t go past the Spiegelau IPA glass, which was developed in collaboration with two of the leading America’s leading IPA brewers – Sam Calagione of Dogfish Head and Ken Grossman of Sierra Nevada.

Champion Trophy was a humbling experience and totally unexpected but I am glad we did so we can now share the love of this wonderful beer with the world". Prancing Pony also produces a 6.6 per cent IPA called The Pagan’s Empire, which is brewed with a significant proportion of rye malt. A new take on the IPA style has recently emerged from America’s northeast and is known as New England IPA. These beers are deliberately left cloudy, sometimes utilising flaked barley or oats to

create a hazy appearance. They tend to be relatively low in bitterness and have a hop character that is often described as ‘juicy’ – favouring tropical fruit over the citrus and pine of more traditional American IPAs. There is currently some controversy whether New England IPA is truly a new beer style, or just another variant of American IPA. One Aussie brewery embracing the New England style IPA is Batch Brewing Co., based in Marrickville, Sydney. Founders Andrew Fineran and Chris Sidwa are both American expats who opened the brewery in late 2013. Batch number 89 for the brewery was a New England style IPA called Juicy as Phuck. “The name is Juicy because, well… it’s juicy!” says Fineran. “The whirlpool hopping, residual sweetness and yeast flavours create a unique fruit flavour similar to juice. The ‘Phuck’ is an honest assessment of the intensity and an obvious play on words. It’s a nod to one of our favourite Vermont bands, Phish. We happened to be listening to Phish at the time of brewing and it just stuck.” There seems to be no stopping the rise and rise of IPA. Based on the last few years we can expect to see even more variations of the style popping up. Current trends suggest we will continue to see IPAs becoming drier, less bitter and more aromatic, with an increasing emphasis on new hop varieties. For all the hop heads out there, it’s a great time to be alive. Excerpt of an article originally published in Beer & Brewer Issue 40.

Prancing Pony Team BARS&clubs 43

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