Bars & Clubs Autumn 2019

AUTUMN 2019

BARTENDER’S BIBLE This year’s hottest products

GIN

Are we reaching ‘peak gin’?

VODKA

The return of creativity

LYRE’S The non-alcoholic spirits category surges forward

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first drinks

A NEW CHAPTER

“First off, a big announcement:

we’re going digital only. In other words, the magazine that you’re holding in your hands right now will be the last regular edition of BARS&clubs, ever. ” @BARSANDCLUBSMAGAZINE

MANAGING DIRECTOR Simon Grover PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au

/BARSANDCLUB

There are some exciting changes afoot at BARS&clubs HQ. First off, a big announcement: we’re going digital only.

In other words, the magazine that you’re holding in your hands right now will be the last regular edition of BARS&clubs, ever.

For me and the rest of the team, it’s a thrilling period of transition. To repeat an oft-used cliché: it’s not the end, it’s just the beginning. With more and more BARS&clubs readers preferring to browse online rather than sit down with a printed copy, we’ve decided the time is right to go all in.

To support our new online strategy, we’ve got a brand-new website in the works, and we’ll also be re-establishing our identity as a separate entity from TheShout – which has been our home for the past 18 months or so.

While it’s certainly a change, going online-only doesn’t mean that we’ll be cutting back on any of the longform, trend and category-focused features that generally make up the bulk of each mag. Instead, we’ll be debuting a new format for these features online, with the exact details to be revealed over the next few weeks. Let’s just say we’ll be shining a ‘spotlight’ into some exciting areas…

We’re also going out with a bang. In this, our final print issue, we’ve got some cracking features on gin (p.20), vodka (p.26), and sour beer (p.24), as well as the annual Bartender’s Bible category shoot (p.30). There’s also tips to up your flair game (p.18), a peek behind the curtain at Bacardi Legacy (p.14), and the debut of a truly gamechanging product, Lyre’s (p.17), which also graces the front cover.

Finally, it wouldn’t be right to mark the occasion without a dose of nostalgia; turn to page 40 for a look back at how the BARS&clubs magazine evolved over the years. If you look closely, you’ll probably spot a few familiar faces as well!

I do hope you’ll join us on the next phase of the journey. It’s going to be great.

Tam Allenby Editor

@BARS_AND_CLUBS

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BARS&clubs 5

Have you seen Beer & Brewer online?

For the latest news, upcoming events and happenings in the world of beer check out...

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AUTUMN 2019 Features 20 GIN Kit Kriewaldt chats to the distillers and investigates whether we’re heading towards ‘peak gin’.

24 SOUR BEER From kettle sours to barrel-aged lambics – take a walk on the sour side with Luke Robertson.

26

26 VODKA How are distilleries innovating in this category? Brittney Levinson finds out.

30 THE BARTENDER’S BIBLE The liquids you need on your backbar in 2019.

40 BARS&CLUBS OVER THE YEARS As we move into a new phase, we thought it only fitting to take a look back at the mag as it evolved over the years.

2030

Regulars 8 NEWS What you need to know.

10 OPENINGS

24

JULY 2000

The new, the revamped and the rebranded venues opening around the country.

13 NEW FACES Keep an eye on these up-and-comers.

14 INSPIRATION Inside Bacardi Legacy as it unfolded Down Under, a unique ‘sea-aged’ whisky, tips to up your flair game, and the story behind a true gamechanger in the emerging non-alcoholic spirits category.

40 Print Post approved – PP 255003/00748

14

10

DISCLAIMER

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BARS&clubs 7

news

TIME OUT BAR AWARDS: WHO WON?

The Time Out Bar Awards took place in Sydney and Melbourne in early March, with each city’s Best New Bar, Bar of the Year and Bartender of the Year all named.

The Melbourne awards were held at Transport Public Bar in Federation Square on 3 March. Fitzroy cocktail bar The Everleigh was announced as the Bar of the Year, with the team also taking home the award for Best Cocktail Bar. Bartender of the Year went to Lewis Halls from Bad Frankie, while the Legend Award went to Tash Conte – who has helmed the juggernaut that is Black Pearl for more than 16 years.

Other awards revealed on the night included Best Wine Bar – Kirk’s Wine Bar; People’s Choice Award – Elysian Whisky Bar; Best Bar Team – Union Electric; Best New Bar – Clooney Kitchen and Bar; Best Bar Food – Congress, and the Hot Talent Award – Jessica Clayfield.

A week later (10 March), Oxford Art Factory played host to the Sydney awards. Bar of the Year and Best New Bar went to Old Mate’s Place, while Best Cocktail Bar was awarded to Bulletin Place – whose bar manager Evan Stroeve was also named Bartender of the Year.

Other awards on the night included Best Wine Bar – Wyno; Best Beer Bar – Odd Culture; Best Bar Food – Love Tilly Devine and Best Bar Team – Ramblin’ Rascal Tavern. Sarah Mycock of PS40 collected the Hot New Talent award, the People’s Choice award went to Redfern Surf Club and the Legend Award went to James Bradey and Warren Burns of Liquid & Larder.

The awards had caused some controversy earlier in 2019, when the finalists for Bartender of the Year were revealed to all be male. Nonetheless – and following an apology from the magazine and a promise to make changes – hundreds turned up on each city’s respective night to celebrate the vibrant bar industry.

Photos: Anna Kucera/Time Out Sydney

NEVER NEVER WINS Never Never Distilling Co. made history in late February when it was awarded World’s Best Classic Gin for its Southern Strength Gin at the World Gin Awards – the first Australian gin to do so. Since launching in 2017, Never Never has become a popular choice with bartenders around Australia.

8 BARS&clubs

WESTWARD LANDS In its first major push outside of the US, Portland-based Westward American Single Malt Whiskey has expanded into the Australian market. Brewed and distilled using locally malted Pacific Northwest barley and ale yeast, Westward draws inspiration from the region’s renowned craft brewing culture.

JENNA HEMSWORTH WINS BACARDI LEGACY AUSTRALIA Restaurant Hubert’s Jenna Hemsworth bested three of her bartending peers to emerge victorious in the national finals of the annual Bacardi Legacy Cocktail Competition in early February.

While competition was stiff between the top four – which consisted of David Robinson and his cocktail ‘18th Amendment’, Millie Tang’s ‘Me Oh My’ and Will Krepop’s ‘Altura’ – Hemsworth and her drink ‘The Monarch’ was deemed to be the best of the bunch.

Hemsworth was judged not only on the taste of her drink and the ingredients and methods used to create it, but also her expertise in promoting and marketing it to the public. Her inspiration for The Monarch also clearly resonated with the judging panel, with the cocktail a homage to the strong women and allies in the hospitality industry.

Turn to p.14 for a full wrap-up of the evening

SCOUT DOWN UNDER Sydney’s Dolphin Hotel has become the new home of leading London cocktail bar, Scout.

The “bar within a pub” concept is the first international foray for Scout, which reached number 26 in the 50 World’s Best Bars list 2018. Scout is led by Matt Whiley, whose famous ferments feature heavily.

news SPEAKEASY STARTS CROWDFUNDING Speakeasy Group, the multi awardwinning hospitality group behind Melbourne and Sydney institutions Eau de Vie, Mjolner and Boilermaker House, has launched an equity crowdfunding campaign – opening up to investors for the very first time. Owners Sven Almenning and Greg Sanderson are offering Australian investors and stakeholders including employees, patrons and other industry leaders the opportunity to own a piece of their favourite Speakeasy venue. At the time of writing, Speakeasy had raised nearly $800,000 via the crowdfunding platform Birchal.

THE WAY FORWARD FOR THE BAR SECTOR

The World’s 50 Best Bars celebrated its 10th anniversary in New York City earlier this year, hosting an event titled #50BestTalks that brought together a line-up of legendary bartenders and bar owners compiled from the list’s No.1 ranked bars over the decade. When asked about what they believe will drive the bar sector forward, here’s what some of them had to say.

12

FOUR PILLARS BOUGHT In big news for Australian craft distilling, brewing giant Lion and Four Pillars Gin have announced a deal which sees Lion buy a 50 percent stake in the Healesville-based distillery.

“We have, over the last 18 months, been approached by a lot of people,” co-founder Stu Gregor said. “By that I mean private equity, wealthy individuals as well as trade partners. Lion just felt the best and I like the fact they are based in Australia. I was a bit afraid of us not being the number one gin in a portfolio, that we might get lost in a company with three or four other spirits brands or gin brands.”

ARTISAN DRINKS COMPANY LAUNCHES Award-winning bar owner Mikey Enright has joined forces with beverage entrepreneur Steve Cooper and Bowralbased artist Alan Walsh to launch a new range of premium craft mixers.

The Artisan Drinks Company’s range of four unique mixers have been created to enhance the flavours of boutique spirits. The range includes three tonics – Classic London Tonic, Skinny London Tonic, and Violet Blossom Tonic – as well as a Barrel Smoked Cola.

They’re all made using 100% natural ingredients and bottled locally.

Australia is currently the

“Leadership and empowerment” Jillian Vose, The Dead Rabbit Vose of The Dead Rabbit (World’s Best Bar 2016) said “the balance in the bar makes or breaks the experience as a whole”.

This includes a commitment to inclusivity and culture within the workplace and having a system in place that trains and incentivizes each employee’s loyalty and ability to grow.

“Creative sustainability” – Ryan Chetiyawardana, Dandelyan The owner of The World’s Best Bar from 2018 spoke about creative sustainability and how “innovation is crucial; we don’t need to lose the wonderful things we [already] have, they can coexist”.

Chetiyawardana advocates an approach that doesn’t start with restrictions or “what you should not do”, and instead suggests reconsidering why a bar operates the way it does and how that can be made more sustainable.

th

largest market in the world for Scotch, in both value and volume.

(Scotch Whisky Association)

HAVE YOU SEEN BARS&CLUBS ONLINE?

All the latest industry news, along with features, tips and tutorials.

“Storytelling at the bar” – Declan McGurk, American Bar at The Savoy “Storytelling is a part of the very start of a human’s appreciation of enjoyment,” said McGurk, also pointing to escapism as one of the most passionate human instincts.

“You are not selling drinks, you are selling service,” he added, defining drinks as a product but service as an experience.

BARS&clubs 9

M

MAYBE SAMMY

aybe Sammy, the first cocktail bar from the owners of Maybe Frank, opened in The Rocks in Sydney in early January – and has quickly carved out a stellar reputation.

Maybe Sammy is co-owned by Maybe Frank founders Stefano Catino and Vince Lombardo, as well as Maybe Frank’s creative director, Andrea Gualdi. It’s Gualdi – the Australian winner of Diageo World Class 2017 and global top 4 finalist – who has taken the lead on the Maybe Sammy cocktail list. He’s supported

by Martin Hudak and Balazs Molnar, with the former joining Maybe Sammy from one of the most iconic hotel cocktail bars in the world, American Bar at The Savoy in London.

The design of the venue is described as “Hollywood Regency-meets-Palm Springs”, with bold lighting enhancing the pink and green velvet on the walls, and drawing attention to the smoked mirrors, indoor trees and pink tropical wallpaper that bedecks the space.

Eight signature cocktails lead the main drinks list, all modern interpretations of a classic cocktail with a theatrical twist. Each of the eight are named after some of the Rat Pack’s favourite haunts: for example, Circus Circus (Bulleit Rye whiskey, Martini Ambrato vermouth, mint, poblano, delivered with a ‘magic trick’); Lady Luck, which is presented 10 BARS&clubs

with a house-made scented hand cream to give guests a sensory experience as they drink (Ketel One vodka, mango, passionfruit, lemon) and Thunderbird, featuring house-made jasmine kombucha (Aperol, Americano Cocchi wine, Becherovka, jasmine kombucha, grape rocks).

Supporting the signature cocktails are ‘Minis’ (a small rotating tasting menu of classic cocktails, each priced at $10), and ‘High Rollers’, a collection of cocktails for guests with money to spend. Starting from $70, the list includes the Champagne Cocktail made with Hennessy XO cognac, champagne, sugar, bitters and orange zest ($110) and Dean Martin’s signature cocktail, Flame of Love Martini with Grey Goose VX vodka, Fino Sherry and orange zest ($80).

Coffee is also a priority at Maybe Sammy, with Hudak – 2017 World Coffee in Good Spirits Champion – assembling a punchy coffee menu incorporating beans sourced for the venue from Costa Rica and roasted by the team.

He’s also created a selection of coffee cocktails including Sammy Shakerato (single shot Ethiopian Kochere Natural, Campari, Limoncello), Espresso Martiki (Nitro espresso, Plantation pineapple rum, Mr Black, mango, banana) and an Irish Coffee (Redbreast 12yo Irish whiskey, Costa Rica Azul Natural, honey, sugar, cream).

The booze-free cocktails have also been given their fair share of attention; non-drinking guests can enjoy a Ciao Ciao Bambino (Seedlip grove, coffee, citrus, tonic), Four of Kind (Seedlip Garden, seaweed, verjuice, wattle cola), or the kombucha of the week.

While serious attention has been paid to the drinks list and the design of the venue, co-owner Vince Lombardo says that it’s “fun” that is really at the heart of Maybe Sammy.

“You can have the best bartenders, an amazing cocktail list and a beautiful space but if none of that is delivered with personality, then you’re just another cocktail bar,” says Lombardo.

“The experience of drinking at Maybe Sammy will be what is most memorable, and our bar staff are at the heart of that. They take their craft seriously, but they know how to have fun and they want to make sure that everyone who has a drink with us, enjoys the venue as much as we do.

“We’ve spent a year refining the concept, from cocktail list to the interiors to what we want our staff to wear and have produced a venue we hope sets a new standard in Sydney.”

Address: 115 Harrington St, The Rocks NSW 2000

openings Caffe Bartolo

Jared Merlino, one of the leading lights of the Sydney hospitality scene, has opened a new, all-day Italian eatery and bar in Surry Hills. Caffe Bartolo represents a new direction for Merlino, with the kitchen and bar both operating for the venue’s full opening hours of 7am-12am. “The idea for Caffe Bartolo has been in the works for around two years – I’ve always wanted to do an all-day Italian eatery and something that was at street level and full of light,” he told BARS&clubs. On the drinks side of the equation is Grazia Di Franco (pictured), who has worked with Merlino to design the vermouth-driven, easy-drinking cocktail list that suits Caffe Bartolo’s style of dining. “The idea that Grazia and I came up with was to have the list focus on low ABV style drinks where [guests] are able to have several over the course of a meal,” says Merlino. “So, less spirit-forward style drinks and letting more of the flavours of the components come through.”

Panama Social

Off the back of opening Perth hotspot Tiny’s, hospitality heavyweights Michael Forde, Paul Aron and Brett Robinson have opened another venue – this time taking inspiration from Central America. Conjuring up vivid memories of traveling through the Americas, Panama Social is about the times you’ve had and the places you’ve been – pops of colours on street walls, vibrant murals through alleyways, neon signs down busy streets, and random art spotted with blurry eyes through smoky bars. “You’ll walk in and feel something but not quite know what it is,” says co-owner Aron. Foodwise, it’s a mixture of street food and home-style ‘neotropical’ cook-ups; think riffs on empanada, ceviches and roti. The tropical drinks program is head up by Tom Kearney, focusing on rum, tequila and pisco. Punch bowls and beer jugs are also served for big groups. “The drinks menu takes bits and pieces from all over,” says Kearney, “but nothing too serious.”

Bancho Bar

Sydney’s Chinatown has welcomed its first small bar after the team behind Tokyo Bird and Osaka Trading Co opened their third venue, called Banchō Bar. The 100-seat laneway small bar is located at 10 Thomas Lane and owner-operator Jason Ang said the location has influenced the venue’s cocktail list. “Our focus will be great cocktails and whisky, with the cocktail list to feature Asian produce and ingredients from the local markets and grocery stores,” Ang said at the time of the venue’s opening. “Sydney’s Chinatown is so diverse with Chinese, Japanese, Korean and Thai offerings, and more – we’ll be showcasing influences from all these cultures in our cocktail program.” Opening from Monday to Saturday, 4pm until late – including a 2am late licence on Friday and Saturday – Banchō Bar also offers bottle lockers on its mezzanine floor for regulars to keep their unfinished bottles of spirits for future visits. There’s also a “substantial menu of bar snacks” including kushikatsu – panko-crumbed skewers of meat and vegetables.

Hello Gorgeous

Hello Gorgeous has set up shop on Chester Street in Brisbane’s Newstead, featuring a handpicked wine list, a fun décor and a sprawling deck area. It’s the latest multi-level bar for the inner-city suburb, designed to be a “casual but sophisticated hotspot”. According to owner Justin De Beer, Hello Gorgeous is there “for everyone to just relax, enjoy great food and wine, and have fun”. The food offering is broad, spanning fish and crustacean, meats, from the garden, share boards and sweets, while the cocktails rotate seasonally – with a particular focus on low-alcohol options that are “designed to taste great but be friendlier on the bank card (and the next day headache)”. The interior has been designed by stylist Bea Berry, and features teal banquettes, curved arches, a bar clad in pastel pink tiling, and striking gold accents. There’s also a private dining room that seats up to 20, and a function room for 80. Open Monday-Friday from 4pm and from midday on weekends, there’s also DJs Friday-Sunday to keep the party going.

Address: 353-355 Crown St, Surry Hills NSW

Address: 245 William St, Northbridge WA

Address: 10 Thomas Ln, Haymarket NSW

Address: 60 Carrington St, Sydney NSW

BARS&clubs 11

rs e d dia a o F Le me b ial u P c # n so w llo

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SUMMIT 2019 SPEAKERS ANNOUNCED & PROGRAM REVEALED MONDAY 20 MAY 2019 MELBOURNE CONVENTION & EXHIBITION CENTRE Among the star-studded speakers now confirmed are: 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

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8.

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Program:

Sand Hill Road executive team Colonial Leisure GroupÕs Lawrence Dowd Australian Venue Co CEO Paul Waterson ZagameÕs COO Jackie Booth Stomping Ground Brewery Co founder Steve Jeffares Open Arms HospitalityÕs Director Craig Shearer Three Pound GroupÕs GM Tim McLernon Victorian Commission for Gambling and Liquor Regulation AHA Vic

More operators, groups and experts to be revealed shortly

✔ Should I stay, go or grow? How to call the next shot ✔ Putting the F into B: building a food proposition whatever your budget ✔ A year in 30 minutes: everything we learned in our first year, including The Camfield ✔ Winning with sports, gaming and entertainment ✔ Maximising media: nailing social media and digital ✔ Gaining, training and keeping staff in a high-turnover industry ✔ Grand Panel: everything you need to know about the year ahead Plus more to be revealed imminently

TICKETS FROM: $349 + GST for a limited time only Get your tickets at: www.publeaders.com.au EVENT SPONSORED BY:

Landor Associates Via Tortona 37 Milan I-20144 Italy Tel. +39 02 764517.1

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new faces

Max Giudice, Tiny’s (WA)

I became a bartender because... I got into bartending whilst studying at university and, somewhat accidentally, fell in love with it. I’ve finished my degree now but have too much fun in the bar! My service weapon is... Groovy dance moves and long arms. The best part of the industry is... The camaraderie, openness, and enthusiasm everyone has. The worst part is... Missing out on countless nights out and events with your non-hospitality friends. The international bar I want to visit is... Three Sheets in London, Tippling Club in Singapore, Death and Co in NYC, and Bar BenFiddich in Tokyo. If I could serve someone famous it would be... Jeff Goldblum. Would be an encounter to remember. The cocktail I would make cool again is... A classic daiquiri. Most people think that the drink is frozen and blended with strawberries.

It’s such a simple classic and unbelievably good when well made, yet I’ve only had hospitality folk order it from me. So sad. Drinkers are paying attention to... What’s going into their drink. It’s exciting to see people asking for cocktails with spirits from the back bar, as well as asking for recommendations and trying new things. If I ruled the world, I would make everyone... Be more environmentally conscious.

Dewie Vogelsanger, Caffe Bartolo (NSW)

I became a bartender because… I love showing people a good time and seeing their reactions when they take that first sip of something they might never have tried. My service weapon is... My cheeky smile and enabling ways. The best part of the industry is... The community and friends you make along the way. The worst part is... Seeing those friends mostly at their work because you have conflicting rosters. The international bar I want to visit is... Too many. I do love finding little local spots wherever I go. You never know what they might have to show you. If I could serve someone famous it would be... Cardi B because she is a damn character. The cocktail I would make cool again is... The Mayan Whore. Drinkers are paying attention to... Lower ABV style drinks and my awkward dance moves behind the bar. If I ruled the world, I would make everyone... Do a little more yoga and drink a little more tequila. Not at the same time. That is a bad time.

Niki Lauridsen, The Doss House (NSW)

I became a bartender because… A teenage vacation with a bartending course, turned into a side job while studying, turned into passion as more knowledge came by me. My service weapon is… Patience. The best part of the industry is… The everchanging pace and experience. Each day so different from the other. And the interaction with colleagues from other venues to expand your knowledge. The worst part is… Dealing with people who expect or want something they feel entitled to, with no foundation to possess that feeling. The international bar I want to visit is… I’ve got a long list so far, but The Alchemist, London would probably be the top one at the moment. If I could serve someone famous it would be... Provided it came with good bar chat I would go with Gary Oldman or HRH Frederik, crown prince of Denmark. The cocktail I would make cool again is… The classic daiquiri. Get the association of the name with the frozen variety out of people’s heads and have every bartender have his/her own twist on the classic! Drinkers are paying attention to… Their turn in line to order rather than what they want to order. If I ruled the world, I would make everyone… Drink less in general, but start drinking better! And get rid of racism, but that should be everyone’s top agenda.

Brandon Jo, Eau De Vie (VIC)

I became a bartender because… I was working in coffee for a while and serving cocktails just seemed like so much more fun. I love the convivial nature of beverage service! My service weapon is... An ear to ear smile, or a faux American accent? The best part of the industry is... Seeing that lift in mood of a guest when they take that first sip. The worst part is... It would have to be my sore back! The international bar I want to visit is... How could I choose just one? Operation Dagger, Native, Dante, just to name a few. If I could serve someone famous it would be... Probably Mads Mikkelsen. The cocktail I would make cool again is... Tuxedos, anyone?! Drinkers are paying attention to... Next to every detail you can think of – the glassware, cleanliness, the arrangement of the back bar, how comfortable their chair is, the motion of your movements... People surprise me all the time, they don’t miss a thing.

If I ruled the world, I would make everyone... Waste less, clean up the oceans, and care more about the planet in general.

BARS&clubs 13

JENNA HEMSWORTH: CRAFTING A LEGACY Restaurant Hubert’s Jenna Hemsworth took out the Australian leg of the Bacardi Legacy Cocktail Competition in early February, and BARS&clubs was there to catch all the action.

H

ospitality royalty gathered at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Sydney on 4 February to witness four of Australia’s top bartenders shake it out in the national finals of the annual Bacardi Legacy Cocktail Competition, with Jenna Hemsworth and her drink ‘The Monarch’ eventually emerging victorious.

Competition was stiff between the top four finalists, with Hemsworth eventually besting David Robinson and his cocktail ‘18th Amendment’, Millie Tang’s ‘Me Oh My’ and Will Krepop’s ‘Altura’ to come out on top.

Hemsworth’s drink, The Monarch, was judged not only on its taste and the ingredients and methods used to create it, but also her expertise in promoting and marketing it to the public. Another crucial aspect of any Legacy cocktail is its replicability, and Hemsworth certainly ticked this box, with The Monarch easily replicated at any bar in the world.

Her inspiration for The Monarch also clearly resonated with the judging panel, which consisted of former Australian Bacardi Legacy winner James Irvine, Australian 14 BARS&clubs

Bartender Magazine editor Sam Bygrave, and Coleman’s Academy founder Paige Aubort.

As Hemsworth told the crowd during her presentation, her drink pays homage to the strong women and allies in the hospitality industry – a point she cemented with a slideshow of inspirational industry women that flashed behind her as she created her cocktail.

When asked about her win postevent, Hemsworth told BARS&clubs that “it’s the most excited I’ve felt about anything in a long time.”

“In all honesty, I feel a bit shocked – up against the three people I was up against, it’s a delightful surprise not only to win but to be considered equal among those people.

“They delivered three amazing and I’d say almost flawless performances, alongside their amazing marketing campaigns. I’m shocked but also very thankful that the judges and everybody else saw the passion I felt doing this.”

In May, Hemsworth will travel to Amsterdam on an all-expenses-paid journey to represent Australia and

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compete against bartenders from 48 countries in the Global Final.

She also takes home a raft of prizes, including stock, promotional and financial support from Bacardi nationally and in her hometown of Sydney.

The Monarch has also been available for the public to try in select bars around the country since March.

When asked if she is aiming to beat former Swillhouse co-worker James Irvine, who finished in the top three in Mexico City last year, Hemsworth was unequivocal.

“Of course I am – if I don’t, I will bring shame to the Swillhouse family!”

Hemsworth laughed.

“Surprisingly though, I didn’t come in to this to win it, I came into it to celebrate everyone else, and in turn empower myself through empowering other people.

“But now seeing the effect that it’s had on other people, I do feel a responsibility to take it to the absolute top because it’s not just me, it’s about everyone else who I’m speaking for as well – we do have a message, and I hope to do them proud.”

JENNA HEMSWORTH:

The Monarch

DAVID ROBINSON:

18th Amendment

Ingredients: • 50ml Bacardi Ocho • 10ml De Kuyper Crème de Cacao • 10ml Tempus Fugit Crème de Menthe • Rinse glass with Branca Menta Method: Stir the Ocho, cacao and crème de menthe with ice in a mixing glass. Strain and garnish with a single mint leaf.

Glassware: Nick & Nora

Ingredients: • 45ml Bacardi Carta Blanca • 15ml Dom Benedictine • 30ml mandarin juice • Peel of one mandarin • 20ml lime juice • 8 basil leaves Method: Shake all ingredients hard to properly infuse the peel and release the basil oils.

Double strain and garnish with a young basil sprig.

Glassware: Coupette

MILLIE TANG:

Me Oh My

Ingredients: • 45ml Bacardi Carta Blanca • 15ml Coco Lopez • 10ml lime juice • 7.5ml honey syrup • 5ml Crème de violette Method: Shake all ingredients with ice, double strain. Lavender flower garnish.

Glassware: Nick & Nora

WILL KREPOP:

Altura

Ingredients: • 60ml Bacardi Carta Blanca • 25ml pineapple syrup • 15ml lime juice • Lime peel • 30ml dry sparkling wine Method: Shaken and strained over the dry sparkling wine.

Mint leaf garnish.

Glassware: Flute BARS&clubs 15

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A WELLTRAVELLED WHISKY In late February, Starward released a new, extremely limited-edition whisky that was aged in an oak barrel fixed to the deck of a luxury cruise liner. But why?

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tarward’s innovative, cruise ship-aged single malt whisky – called The Seafarer – has been through a lot.

Experiencing temperatures ranging from zero to 32 degrees centigrade on its 95,000 nautical mile journey, The Seafarer moved with the motion of the ocean and soaked up the salt of the sea air on its round-the-world expedition.

Initially aged for more than two years at Starward’s Port Melbourne distillery, the whisky was housed in a 225-litre oak barrel which was secured on Queen Elizabeth’s open aft decks by the ship’s engineers.

During its journey, the whisky spent 160 days at sea and a further 187 days visiting more than 90 ports around the globe, including St

16 BARS&clubs

Petersburg, Helsinki, Lisbon, Venice, Hong Kong, Penang and Cape Town.

On a practical level, The Seafarer is the product of a special partnership between Starward and Cunard, and is designed to celebrate the Queen Elizabeth cruise liner’s inaugural homeporting season in Australia this year.

Visibly weathered by its journey, the barrel was offloaded in Melbourne on 10 February and taken to Starward’s nearby distillery, where it was compared with a control barrel of the same whisky which had remained in Melbourne.

According to Starward founder David Vitale, the result of the journey is a whisky like no other.

“The maturation environment is crucial to the final flavour of any whisky so this was an amazing opportunity to create something different,” he said. “There’s no doubt The Seafarer’s odyssey on Queen Elizabeth has resulted in a unique whisky, which clearly has a great story to tell through its flavours.

“Even if we put a barrel of the same whisky on another ship for a year, we could never emulate the same weather conditions, so this really is a one-of-a-kind drop.

“While The Seafarer still

David Vitale

has Starward’s trademark fruit characters, the oak influences are stronger, our jammy characteristics have developed with time and the dessert cooking spices like vanillin are more identifiable.

“This is a whisky that’s been on an amazing journey so the result is appropriately epic. It’s a special drop so we’re recommending that it should be drunk neat or with a dash of water, so the subtleties of its flavour can be savoured.”

Apart from at Starward’s Port Melbourne distillery, The Seafarer is only available to guests aboard the 2081-guest Queen Elizabeth.

While we’re unlikely to see too many more whiskies aged on the deck of a cruise liner, it does beg the question: will more distilleries make use of unusual maturation environments in the future?

inspiration

TRUTH AND LYRE’S Lyre’s, a new range of non-alcoholic spirits, launched in Sydney in late March – designed to shine when used in cocktails and mixed drinks.

We sat down with co-founder Mark Livings to get the inside scoop.

WHAT’S THE POINT OF A NONALCOHOLIC SPIRIT? It’s very, very clear that consumers are demanding this, with quite a few addressable demographics.

The first one is millennials – they’re looking after themselves a lot better than I did. Alcohol for them isn’t hedonism and excess, it’s indulgence and enjoyment. So we see the ability to offer that particular target market the time-tested beautiful flavours that they’re used to in an alcoholic range, in a non-alcoholic range.

Then we’ve got women who are pregnant. I’m of the age where everyone is having kids or has had kids, and when I explain this range to them they have two questions: one, ‘what does it taste like?’ And two, ‘when can I buy it?’ For them, there’s a lot of ritual around that evening drink when you go home, wind down and pour yourself a G&T, or whatever it is that is their choice.

Thirdly, we’ve got increasing periods of abstinence for people who usually drink. They’re countless – dry January, dry February, dry July. Then we have the ageing boomer population who are being told – increasingly for medical reasons – to slow it down or quit.

So that’s why non-alcohol spirits are highly, highly relevant. They’re in exceptionally high growth and there’s more market demand than there is products to satisfy demand at the moment.

HOW DOES THE LYRE’S RANGE COMPARE TO PRODUCTS LIKE SEEDLIP? Seedlip is a fantastic product. We don’t consider them a competitor. We see them as a gin-adjacent product, so around the same occasions where gin is used, in terms of mixing with tonic or around gin-based cocktails, you can sub-in Seedlip. Whereas what we wanted to bring to market – and have been working on for a long time – is a system that is friendly to bartenders. So our guiding principles were: can we help bartenders make classics,

and their own favourite cocktails, and to make a non-alcoholic version, all they’d need to do is reach for a single bottle. That was our principle. We’ve got 13 SKUs in the range at the moment, which spans the gamut of arguably the world’s most loved spirits.

CAN YOU REVEAL HOW LYRE’S IS MADE? There’s an element of mystery here. For us, we don’t use a distillation process. We do pull in ingredients though. For example, our Rosso Vermouth has over 31 different, naturally-derived essences, extracts, distillates. So what we’re doing is taking the same compounds, the same molecules - that distillation will throw into an ethanol base - we’re just getting to those particular compounds in a different method. [And then] we’re combining them post into an aqueous base.

HAVE YOU BEEN TO ANY BARS WITH LYRE’S YET? I wish I’d started recording the reactions of bartenders far earlier. It was always ‘go and make a daiquiri with this, go and make a martini with this’, cynicism, cynicism, and then they’ll taste it and it’s always ‘no way’. That reaction is so good when we get it. For us, we see there are stalwarts in the industry like the espresso martini and the like – those are virtually indistinguishable from the real thing when you make them using Lyre’s. Once the bar professional gets their head around the range and what it can do, it opens up a world of possibilities.

DO YOU HAVE ANY SUGGESTED SERVES? To use a point of reference like Seedlip again – because those flavours are adjacent to gin – or Zubrowka vodka because of the bison grass, they deserve a suggested serve, because they have a unique flavour profile. We’re totally the opposite. These are as close as we can get to the original thing, so we suggest bartenders use them like they would use the original spirit. So for the bourbon, make an old fashioned or a Manhattan. For the gin and the rosso [vermouth], go and make a negroni. There’s no need to trade out of those beautiful classics that we all love – just switch the bottle.

BARS&clubs 17

FLAIR BARTENDING – WHERE DID IT COME FROM? Sometimes referred to as ‘extreme bartending’, ‘bar tricks’ or ‘flairtending’, flair bartending rose to prominence in the mid-1990s. In this article courtesy of the World Flair Association (WFA), we track the history of the discipline.

F

lair bartending – what is it?

Broadly, ‘flair’ can include almost any manipulation of a bar tool such as a cocktail shaker or even a bar napkin. Often employed to differentiate establishments and entertain guests, flair bartending has become more than just a marketing technique for bar and club owners or a pastime for bored bartenders.

In Europe and the US in particular, flair bartending has evolved into its own discipline attracting bartenders from around the world to understand its secrets and its tricks.

However, as with all impressive skills, practice makes perfect.

THE BIRTH OF FLAIR The earliest record of anyone that comes close to a flair bartender is the father of American mixology himself, Jerry ‘The Professor’ 18 BARS&clubs

Thomas. The fiery streams of boiling water and flaming whisky that made up his original cocktail the Blue Blazer, way back when in the 19th century, bring to mind a number of flair techniques. Apart from this early mention, however, flair bartending is thought to have emerged out of T.G.I Fridays in the US, and more specifically at their establishment in Los Angeles – and a man called John Bandy.

As the story goes, Bandy was

awfully bored at some point in the ‘80s and was tired of the same old meet and greets with his customers – so he decided to switch it up.

He began experimenting with all manner of bar tools, teaching himself how to frisbee toss bar napkins and catch a flying cocktail tin behind his head. In fact, it was John Bandy who taught the actors in another great contributor to flair bartending in history, the film Cocktail.

Love it or hate it, Cocktail featuring Tom Cruise helped spread flair bartending across the USA and eventually the world. Within eight years of the film’s release, there was a huge demand for training in flair bartending and John Bandy found himself performing training seminars in over 30 countries.

This represented the birth of

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flair bartending as a mainstream discipline and something any professional bartender would need to have within their skill set. When the classic cocktail revival which came roaring back in the late 90s and early 2000s, flair bartending proved itself to be more than a fad; flair was here to stay.

TAKING FLAIR TO THE NEXT LEVEL In the mid-2000s, the formation of the World Flair Association (WFA) and eventually a grand slam system with its own worldwide league table, took flair took the next level. Flair had now officially evolved from a form of entertainment for customers and a matter of differentiation for bar owners and bartenders, to a discipline in which you could compete and master. Over the years, flair bartending has grown around the world, with the WFA putting on or supporting competitions across almost every continent.

International flair bartender competitions such as The Roadhouse World Finals in London have been running for over 16 years – with the winner pocketing a cheque worth £10,000. With the advent of competition flair bartending via the WFA we have also seen flair bartending grow, with new faces, new moves and new styles as the discipline evolves year-on-year.

Competition is a great way to

incentivise creation and innovation in all fields, and in flair bartending it’s no different.

WHY AND HOW? Flair bartenders are employed all over the world, with the technique and skills of flair recognised as a dramatic, skilful and entertaining discipline. Often employed for promotional purposes, flair bartenders are great at attracting crowds, but are just as good when actually making drinks for people as well – hence why a flair bartender’s optimum environment will always be behind a bar, rather than on stage.

There is a belief that flair bartending is purely for show, however this is not the case. Any bartender that undertakes flair bartending training, or has mastered the discipline already, knows that it can in fact make you a more precise bartender and certainly a quicker and more efficient one.

In order to perform the moves, you have to first organise the order in which you are going to perform these actions in your head. This thought process links each move together in an organised way, making you faster and more efficient behind the bar. Put simply, you build a routine in your head and then perform the routine step-by-step as you go ahead to make the drink that has been requested.

After all, being efficient or achieving maximum efficiency is something that has always been at the heart of working with flair, ensuring that each and every flair move you perform behind the bar has first and foremost a purpose and secondly an entertaining factor.

The days of cheesy Tom Cruise in an aloha shirt are thankfully over, but the spirit of flair and its ability to engage and interest the guest and audience are more alive than ever.

At the heart of it, bartenders will always be entertainers – whether that is flipping a bottle or building a perfect Old Fashioned. After all, entertainment and enjoyment is what bartending is all about.

BARS&clubs 19

THE FUTURE OF

GIN

From pink gin to peak gin: where does gin go from here? Kit Kriewaldt spoke to some of Australia’s leading distillers to find out.

20 BARS&clubs

gin

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trawberry, marshmallow root, raspberry, gingerbread.

Flavour profiles of modern gins are starting to sound like Willy Wonka’s shopping list. And those are just the sweet ones.

The gin boom has also given us truffle gin, coffee gin, and just this year, hemp gin. With a seemingly constant stream of new brands spruiking increasingly crazy flavours, gin in 2019 is starting to look a lot like vodka in 2012 – overcrowded, over-sweetened, and headed for collapse.

Not so long after gin’s dramatic resurgence, have we already reached peak gin?

Talking to Australian gin distillers reveals a diverse category full of contradictions.

“I’m a firm believer that we’re reaching saturation point of local producers… along with consumers reaching a point of ‘gin-fatigue’,” says Brendan Carter, chief distiller and director at Applewood Distillery. Carter has seen a lot of creative gins since he began distilling in 2012, but there’s one recent trend that’s caught his eye. “You know [a] category is flooding when ‘fruit gins’ start showing up,” he says, adding, “remember the vodka days?”

By contrast, Stu Gregor, cofounder of craft gin powerhouse Four Pillars, doesn’t believe gin fatigue has set in. “Not just yet – we are leading the spirits world in Australia for growth in both volume and value, and there are still many more great gins yet to be released I reckon,” says Gregor.

Ryan Hartshorn, head distiller and director at Tasmania’s Hartshorn Distillery, agrees.

“I don’t think gin will reach a saturation point any time soon,” he says. As for consumer gin fatigue: “there are too many variants of botanical and so many different options of drink creations for the consumer to grow bored of the drink.”

The team from Four Pillars

Optimists like Gregor and Hartshorn can point to gin’s continued growth in Australia, where gin sales surged by 30% last year, according to Dan Murphy’s, making it one of their fastest-growing spirit segments.

Meanwhile, UK government figures show exports of British gin to Australia nearly doubled in the first half of 2018, meaning Australia is one of the larger export markets for British gin.

FLAVOUR FATIGUE So far, so good. But Carter is far from alone in sounding the alarm about the current wave of flavoured gins. In the UK, Hayman’s Gin launched the ‘Call Time on Fake Gin’ campaign last year. The aim is to draw attention to spirits that are sold as gin but do not taste predominantly of juniper, as required by EU law.

Matt Parkin, a co-founder and director of boutique Brisbane

BARS&clubs 21

“The biggest switchers to gin, thus driving the category, [are] wine drinkers.”

BLOODY JASMINE INGREDIENTS: • 20ml Four Pillars Bloody Shiraz Gin • 20ml Campari • 20ml Dry Curacao (or any other orange liqueur, such as Cointreau) • 20ml fresh lemon juice • 1 dash of Regan’s Orange Bitters • Lemon twist for garnish METHOD: Shake over ice, strain into a chilled coupette glass, and garnish with a lemon twist.

(Created for Four Pillars by Sam Ng) distillery Art of Booze, says such juniper-light gins are essentially indistinguishable from flavoured spirits. “Gin might be in a place where if you got four contemporary style gins from around the world [in a blind taste test] there could be people saying they tried some gins and some flavoured vodkas,” he says.

Parkin has a point. Pink-coloured flavoured gins are so popular they now have their own subcategory – and it’s growing. According to one estimate, there are at least 150 different pink gins currently available in the UK, up from just five in 2013. Although it began with independent brands like Edgerton 22 BARS&clubs

and Pinkster, big brands such as Beefeater and Gordon’s are now pushing the pink gin bandwagon.

Jodi McLeod, marketing manager for emerging brands at Diageo, describes Gordon’s Premium Pink as a “juniper forward” gin, but acknowledges that some flavoured gins “stray way too far from that juniper-led flavour profile.” Last year, flavoured gins accounted for more than half the growth in gin sales in the UK. That’s driving fears that flavoured gin is diluting the category overall and will only lead to a race toward cheaper prices and wilder flavours – in other words, a vodka-style bubble.

SHIFTING THE SPOTLIGHT OFF JUNIPER Ask any distiller if gin’s juniper-led flavour is important, and they’re bound to tell you it is. After all, juniper is the one thing that makes gin, gin. As Carter puts it, “any gin that seeks to showcase Australian native flavours in a fun and approachable manner needs to be a truly great gin before anything else – and that comes from juniper firstand-foremost.”

Hartshorn, who distils the decidedly unconventional Sheep

Whey Gin, agrees juniper is an essential component, but adds, “In my opinion, I don’t like to have the juniper flavour as the dominant botanical.” Instead, Hartshorn prefers to let the juniper take a backseat to two native Australian botanicals. “The traditional gin botanicals have been done to death,” he says.

gin

54%

of people who buy pink gin are not normally gin drinkers.

– CGA Strategy

To purists, that may sound like an admission of heresy. And yet the small-batch Sheep Whey Gin is a far cry from the massmarketed flavoured gins that have many in the industry so worked up. Hartshorn chooses his botanicals carefully and juniper is still a prominent part of the mix – to lump his gin into the same subcategory as a sugary pink gin would surely confuse more than clarify.

The distillers interviewed for this article all see native botanicals as one of the great strengths of Australian gin. But under the current definition, there’s a fine line between showcasing Australian flavours and ending up in the flavoured gin bin.

Something’s got to give.

The Hayman’s campaign led to calls for stricter enforcement of the current definition to separate ‘real gin’ from flavoured gin, but that could easily discourage the experimentation gin is known for.

Parkin foresees Australian distillers moving away from gin to create their own spirit, without having to rely on an imported botanical like juniper. “Branching from gin to create a spirit which can be uniquely Australian I think would be beneficial for the Australian industry without adding confusion [to] the gin category,” he says.

HAS GIN OUTGROWN ITS ORIGINAL DEFINITION? But perhaps the simple ‘predominantly juniper’ definition just isn’t enough to capture the full spectrum of modern gin. After all, we use country of origin as a shorthand for flavour – Spanish and Mediterranean gins usually feature spices or savoury notes, Japanese gins are often made from rice spirit

Ryan Hartshorn

THE GIN DISTILLERS DRINK Each distiller shared their favourite gin at the moment – apart from their own, of course.

Brendan Carter: Brookie’s Gin, New South Wales Stu Gregor: Ki No Bi, Kyoto Ryan Hartshorn: Taylor & Smith Gin, Tasmania Matthew Parkin: St. George Spirits Terroir Gin, California

and sport botanicals like yuzu. The rise of pink gins and barrel-aged (or yellow) gins shows colour is another quick, colloquial category. Clearly, we’re already separating gins into informal groups other than simply traditional or flavoured.

These terms don’t need to be enshrined in law, but the industry could formalise their usage, to help drinkers know what to expect when picking up a new gin. The UK Gin Guild is looking to do just that. Instead of becoming the juniper police, the guild is consulting with distillers to create a common “gin lexicon,” which will include descriptions beyond the legal definition. Formalising gin subcategories won’t turn back the tide of pink gins, but it will at least ensure producers and consumers are on the same page.

In the long run, both Gregor and Carter are confident that if our thirst for gin starts to wane, quality products will outlast flavoured gimmicks. “Some of the gins that are not truly craft, not ‘fair dinkum’ if you like, might slowly fade away,” Gregor says. And Carter believes “those distilleries that hang around will have a long and prosperous future…worthy of global attention.”

Pink gin may be all the rage for a summer or two, but gin itself has many more summers to go.

BARS&clubs 23

SOUR HOUR Luke Robertson discovers how sour beers have gone from a niche product through to an essential part of a brewery’s portfolio.

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n 2019 it seems like every brewery is including at least one ‘sour’ beer in its line-up. However, five or six years ago they were barely seen in Australia.

Given their sudden popularity, we decided to ask some brewers why they make the styles and how they create them.

There are a number of methods used to create sour beers, and there are a number of beers considered to be sour beer, versus traditional ales and lagers. From Berliner weisse and gose, which take less than a couple of weeks to make, to barrel-aged and wild-fermented wild ales and lambic-style beers that may take years.

Currumbin Valley Brewing in Queensland opened its doors late last year. While it launched with a more traditional offering – a pale ale – its second beer was a mango sour with lemon myrtle. It uses lactobacillus culture to create sour flavours before the beer is boiled to kill off the bacteria while keeping its flavour. It’s what’s known as a ‘kettle sour’.

Co-founder Pete Wheldon says the plan for the brewery over the coming years is to have three distinct groups of beer. The first group will be hoppy, but “clean” (unsoured) beers. The second will be kettle sours, and the final group will be barrel-aged and soured over time.

Wheldon also believes sour styles are well suited to the climate in his brewery’s part of the world.

“The subtropical climate really lends itself to those beers,” he says. “I know in Brisbane our beers are selling really well. The Gold Coast has a way to go but it feels like it’s picking up.”

Wheldon thinks that the styles are also here to say.

While it has been called a gimmick or a fad in some 24 BARS&clubs

Currumbin Valley Brewing founders

beer beer circles, he firmly believes they have a place in the wider drinking palate. “I see them as a palate cleanser, or a resetter. Like having a sorbet in between courses during a meal. I don’t see them as a flippant trend – they’ve made their mark and they’ll continue to do so.”

MORE THAN ONE WAY TO SOUR A BEER One of the more esoteric breweries in Australia is Robe Town Brewery in South Australia. Owner and brewer Maris Bezaitis uses old wine barrels to ‘mash’ in (turn the grains into a gloopy porridge, which then become the beer) and filters the beer through hay and straw.

He uses a process known as ‘sour mash’ to create his soured beers. This method uses lactobacillus that lives naturally on the grain to create a sour profile, before it’s boiled.

“I just let it spontaneously sour with the bacteria that’s on the malt and in the barrels, that sort of thing,” he says. He also lets the wild yeast and bacteria floating around the environment do their thing to the beer as well. “We do open fermentation, so sometimes if it’s extended, we get a little bit of spontaneous fermentation from wild organisms.”

However, it’s not as easy as leaving it up to chance and hoping you get a beer that actually tastes good.

“Sometimes things are out of your hands,” he adds.

“There are ways to control it and rein it in in case things haven’t gone to plan. Things like blending the soured mash extract with a non-soured wort.”

At Hop Nation in Victoria, the team have created a sub label, known as Site Fermentation Project, to distinguish between its two different sour approaches.

Beers such as The Punch Mango Gose still sit under Hop Nation, while naturally soured and barrel-aged beers will sit under Site Fermentation Project. The Punch uses a lactobacillus culture, left overnight to sour the mash, which is then boiled and treated like a regular ale. For the Site beers, however, co-founders Duncan Gibson and Sam Hambour, wanted to use their experience as winemakers to create more long-term sours. “(With Site) we wanted to get back into something a little bit more winey,” Gibson says. “Sour beers are a medium point between beer and wine, using a lot of the same techniques, and a lot of the same yeast and bacteria attraction that happens in wine.”

At Van Dieman Brewing in Tasmania, owner Will Tatchell uses wild bacteria and yeast and has a fourpoint mantra that he makes his sour beers by: predict results, accept nature, expect failure, respect time.

“I work with nature as much as I possibly can,” Tatchell explains. “Sour beers inherently go where they want to go. We can manipulate them, we can coerce them in the direction we are after but in reality, we are at the whim of whatever’s going to happen. That’s why I take an artistic point of view rather than a purely technical component.”

Tatchell is increasingly brewing beers using yeast, malt, water and hops all grown or found on the farm, and with that comes a lot of unpredictability. He says he expects roughly 15-20% of his beer to not turn out

Will Tatchell, owner of Van Dieman Brewing

as expected, or not to meet his standards. There’s even the possibility of a barrel stave drying out and causing contamination or loss of beer.

WHY? As mentioned, these beers can take longer, and be less predictable than the more common ale and lager styles.

So why would brewers ever want to make them? For Tatchell, he enjoys exploring the link between beer as an agricultural product and the farm itself.

“The nuances of sour beer, and how the environment effects and impacts and coerces the beer, is what drew me into initially, but I just enjoy drinking them. I enjoy the complexity over other beer styles.”

At Hop Nation, Gibson says it’s about the challenge of making the beer and taking the drinker on a journey. He recalls a lady coming in wanting to drink VB, and him thinking “screw it” and giving her a barrel aged sour beer to taste.

“She was smashing pints of it for the rest of the night!

“Making clean beers, there is a good way to do it, you can have your minor differences but being sterile and adding hops at certain times and fermenting at this temperature gets you a result, whereas with sour beer there is hundreds of ways that can get you a good result.”

BARS&clubs 25

BACK WITH A VENGEANCE Vodka is ridding itself of unfortunate stereotypes and re-emerging as a sophisticated spirit thanks to a new wave of artisan distilleries, writes Brittney Levinson.

26 BARS&clubs

vodka

V

odka has long been pigeonholed as a spirit that should be covered up to hide the taste. But times are changing and vodka is making a comeback of sorts. Much like gin and whisky, craft vodkas are on the rise and Australian distillers are breaking tradition with new styles of the spirit. Here, we speak to Underground Spirits in Canberra, Hartshorn Distillery in Tasmania and the bar pros at Eau de Vie, who all agree there’s more to vodka than many consumers think.

OUT OF THE ORDINARY Toby Angstmann is a fertility specialist and a robotic surgeon by trade, but he decided to become a distiller in 2017 with the goal to create superior vodka. Angstmann used his medical knowledge to develop a unique — now patented — cryofiltration distilling method.

“Through our cryofiltering process, the vodka is subjected to subzero temperatures so any impurities form crystals within the liquid,” he says. Using medical-grade filters, the crystals are captured and removed, resulting in a pure, smooth-tasting spirit. “The taste is complex and delicate, with creaminess and a sweet body,” says Angstmann.

Ryan Hartshorn launched Hartshorn Distillery as a side business to his family’s sheep cheese company Grandvewe Cheeses, which he co-owns with his mother and sister. “I would spend every night reading online forums and trying to get my head around distilling and how I could make a distillery relevant to a cheesery without just doing a simple milk liqueur,” says Hartshorn.

“I read about a place in Ireland doing cow whey spirits which piqued my interest, and I thought I could do the same with sheep products.” After some trial and error, Hartshorn found a way to ferment the lactose that remains in the whey. “Whey has a complex sugar and complex sugars don’t ferment, so I had to figure out a way to split protein molecules and change the sugar to a basic sugar and then ferment it. Eventually, we figured it out and now we are the only sheep whey distillery in the world.”

BARS&clubs 27

BAD REPUTATION Angstmann and Hartshorn agree vodka is still battling against stereotypes and misconceptions many drinkers are hesitant to let go of. “Traditionally, vodka was seen as a colourless spirit, almost absent of aroma or taste, and because it’s primarily used as a mixer, it wasn’t as exciting as other spirits,” says Angstmann. “But vodka can be distilled in many ways from many things, so the flavours can be remarkably diverse.”

Hartshorn says it can be challenging introducing people to his products if they come in with preconceived ideas about vodka.

“It is hard, because everyone remembers that time when they were younger and they had too much vodka and they’ve just written it off as a spirit they won’t drink,” he says.

Eau de Vie group bar manager Andy Griffiths has heard negative 28 BARS&clubs

opinions firsthand across the venue’s Sydney and Melbourne locations. “Unfortunately many people think it is a flavourless spirit created in bulk,” he says. “While this may be true for a small handful, it’s rarely the case with a lot of modern distilleries. Consideration of base product, fermentation, distillation and even terroir is as important to some vodka-makers as many bourbon or whisky houses.”

Flavoured vodka is also facing a battle of its own, often relegated as a “young person’s drink”, according to Angstmann. He says flavoured vodka has gained a reputation as a sweet spirit that people choose when they don’t want to taste alcohol. “At Underground Spirits, we are changing that and forging the way to show people that premiumflavoured vodkas exist and are worth seeking out,” he says. Angstmann says demand continues to grow for Underground Spirits’ caramel and

cold brew coffee vodkas. “We have seen huge demand locally for our flavoured vodkas.”

FILTERED OR UNFILTERED? While Underground Spirits uses the cryofiltration method, Hartshorn Distillery opts for no filtration at all. Hartshorn says this is a selling point for the brand and ensures customers are able to taste the unique characteristics of the vodka.

“I did filter it at the start to see what it was like and it ended up smelling and tasting like any other vodka. I thought it’s not really an interesting finished product, so I decided not to filter it.”

While filtration is often associated with quality, Hartshorn says this isn’t always the case. “It’s a little bit of a marketing ploy by the big companies but it’s also a certain style of vodka,” he says. “I’m not saying it’s a negative thing, but some of the character and the

vodka

Underground Spirits’ Toby Angstmann

interesting parts of what makes your vodka unique are taken away when it’s filtered.”

Hartshorn also adds that unfiltered vodka results in a smoother, creamy spirit. “You get that sweetness on the nose and a creamy texture when you drink it,” he says. “Both of those characteristics would be gone if I [filtered] it through activated charcoal.”

And, given the unique qualities of sheep whey vodka, Hartshorn says it is best enjoyed neat. “Drink it neat like whisky or use it in a martini.

But if you have to mix it, just [add] soda water.”

SHAKING OFF THE STIGMA But with more craft distilleries producing artisan products, Angstmann says perceptions around vodka are changing. “Australians are seeking out better quality, premium and new ways to drink vodka,

especially as a sipping vodka or a martini vodka,” he says. “We have also noticed the health-conscious angle for vodka and the trend for people seeking lower-calorie drinks, and vodka with a simple soda fits that order. There are some phenomenal Australian vodkas on the market right now, as well as international ones, so we are spoiled for choice when it comes to goodquality craft vodkas.”

While there will always be vodka haters, Eau de Vie’s Griffiths also adds that modern drinkers are becoming more savvy. “There are huge differences between some of the most well-known brands, especially considering the base materials used to produce them.

As end consumers become more educated, I believe personal preferences will steer growth.

This is especially true in the vodka category.”

With more and more artisan products coming to market, it might be time to rethink your vodka offering. Try adding some unusual or local options to your drinks menu, and have some flavour pairings in mind to recommend to those who are keen to try craft vodka and move past any previous misconceptions.

This article previously appeared in Hospitality Magazine

CHANGING

PERCEPTIONS

Eau de Vie currently offers nine vodkas, ranging from well-known global brands to smaller, local options. “For the discerning drinker, you need a good range to cater for all tastes,” he says.

“The Speakeasy Group prides itself on a good range of all spirits and liqueurs — vodka should be no different.”

The Sydney and Melbourne venues also offer an ‘impromptu martini’ menu, giving customers the ability to choose their vodka and then select a recommended flavour pairing to complete the martini. “It’s a great way for us to showcase potentially unfamiliar pairings to people who may be martini connoisseurs but are not necessarily so adventurous,” says Griffiths. “It’s also good for people who are intrigued by martinis but might be shy about asking as they don’t understand the scope and options available.”

BARS&clubs 29

THE

BARTENDER’S 30 BARS&clubs

the bartender’s bible promotion

BIBLE

Looking to restock or refresh your backbar in 2019?

Well, look no further – here’s your cheat sheet of hot products for the year ahead.

BARS&clubs 31

JUNIPER

THE MYRCENE HEMP GIN

AVIATION GIN

Bubblegum aromas blend with lavender, pine forest and sage. Soft tones of violet interact on the palate with woodland flavours of rosemary and resin, cloves and woody spices. With a long complex finish and a rich mouthfeel, The Myrcene is perfect paired with a premium tonic. Try it poured over a wedge of lemon with a sprig of fresh rosemary to really bring out those piney aromas.

The Cannabis Co.

A small batch dry gin made in Portland, Oregon, Aviation Gin is thought to be the first true partnership between distiller and bartender. Leading US mixologist Ryan Magarian, its creator, describes it as a “botanical democracy” of juniper, cardamom, coriander, lavender, anise seed, sarsaparilla, and dried orange peel. Rated 97 points by Wine Enthusiast Magazine – Wine Enthusiast’s highest-ever gin rating. The gin’s name is taken from the Aviation cocktail, a personal favourite of Magarian.

Vanguard Luxury Brands

32 BARS&clubs

LARRIKIN GIN SUNBURNT COUNTRY

First sips are sweet, soft and smooth. The juniper is very restrained, which lets the native botanicals be discovered. Subtle hints of dry plum, limey zest, and a unique roasty character in the far distance. When ice is added the strawberry gum is perceived, and then with a dash of tonic, lemon aspen comes to the fore bringing the limes back again too. Dainty, alluring and also a galloping emu, pounding across the land! Strong, smooth.

Brilliant straight, amazing with tonic and incredible for cocktails.

Kilderkin Distillery

the bartender’s bible promotion

ORIGINAL SPIRIT CO. GINFUSION LEMON MYRTLE WITH ELDERFLOWER TONIC Ginfusion Lemon Myrtle with Elderflower Tonic aims to redefine traditional gin and tonic combinations. Native Australian lemon myrtle delivers a bright citrus burst followed by a beautiful underlying blossomy sweetness from premium elderflowers. Lime zest bitterness develops, providing a lovely refreshing zing. Best enjoyed simply with ice and a splash of soda, Ginfusion also makes a perfect addition to any modern cocktail.

Original Spirit Co.

JUICE NEVER NEVER SOUTHERN STRENGTH GIN

Southern Strength Gin is a botanical blast of classic flavour with a luxurious mouthfeel.

A savoury overproof expression, achieved by elevating the angelica root, coriander seed and lemon character. The gin was recently awarded World’s Best Classic Gin at the World Gin Awards, making history as the first Australian gin to be bestowed with the title.

Never Never Distilling Co.

ORIGINAL SPIRIT CO. GINFUSION BLOOD ORANGE & JAPANESE YUZU

Proudly produced on the Mornington Peninsula in Victoria, Original Spirit Co’s Ginfusion utilises new techniques and methods to fuse a Classic Dry gin with natural fruit flavours.

A blend of Australian grown blood oranges and exotic Japanese yuzu provides an intensely rich colour and a refreshing citrus burst.

Best enjoyed simply with ice and a splash of soda, Ginfusion is the perfect base for any premium cocktail.

Original Spirit Co.

FORDS GIN The 86 Co. spirits were developed with bartenders in mind.

Created by Dushan Zaric from legendary NYC bar Employees Only and Simon Ford, former Plymouth Global Brand Ambassador and stalwart behind Tales of The Cocktail, Fords Gin is aimed squarely at bartenders. Fords Gin is made in London and uses juniper, coriander seed, bitter orange, lemon, grapefruit peel, jasmine flower, orris, angelica & cassia as botanicals.

Vanguard Luxury Brands

BARS&clubs 33

the bartender’s bible promotion

TEQUILA TIME TEQUILA FORTALEZA REPOSADO

DEL MAGUEY MEZCAL CHICHIPAPA

In 1999, Guillermo Erickson Sauza decided to bring the old Sauza family distillery back to life. Today he produces Tequila Fortaleza there using 100% stone milled agave, entirely produced on the estate which lies right in the centre of the town of Tequila. Fortaleza’s Reposado is rested for a minimum of six months in American oak, with aromas of citrus, caramel, butter, cooked agave and sage.

Vanguard Luxury Brands

Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal was founded in 1995 by internationally renowned artist and mezcal visionary, Ron Cooper. Cooper introduced the world to previously unavailable artisanal mezcal produced the original, handcrafted way from the remote villages of Oaxaca, Mexico. Chichipapa is made in the village of San Balthazar Chichipapa within a desert and tropical micro-climate, and displays a medium nose and a complex taste with lots of citrus and a long, smooth finish with overtones of mint.

Vanguard Luxury Brands

34 BARS&clubs

CALLE 23 TEQUILA BLANCO Calle 23 has become a bartender favourite in Australia and Europe, and for good reason.

Created by a Frenchborn biochemist, Sophie Decobecq, who moved to Mexico nearly 17 years ago, Calle 23 Tequila Blanco is a 100% agave tequila.

Calle 23 Tequila Blanco (unaged) displays a wonderfully clean palate with good agave, crisp apple and sweet tropical fruit notes – including pineapple and ripe pear – made even fresher by notes of tongue-tingling cracked black pepper.

Vanguard Luxury Brands

the bartender’s bible promotion

RUM AWAY SAINT JAMES RHUM AGRICOLE IMPERIAL BLANC From the island blessed with rum, Saint James is one of the oldest and largest distilleries on the Caribbean island of Martinique. A very fresh and tangy white rum Agricole, Saint James Blanc is extremely aromatic with notes of freshly cut sugarcane. Great purity and crystal clean with mellow mouthfeel and tropical fruits. The great superiority of Agricole rum is that it is distilled from fermented sugar cane juice and not from bland molasses.

Cerbaco

UNTOLD SPICED RUM

FLOR DE CAÑA SPRESSO

Four of the country’s leading bartenders, including Dave Kerr, Nathan Beasley, Dre Walters and Oscar Eastman, came together under the Asahi umbrella to create Untold back in late 2017. The result is a unique blend made with premium, 2-3 year aged golden Caribbean rum from Trinidad, infused with subtle natural spices.

As you’d expect, it’s perfect for mixing.

Asahi Premium Beverages

Flor de Caña is one of the world’s most-awarded rums, having won well over 100 international medals since 2000. Established in 1890, it is Nicaragua’s only distillery and is still family-owned. Spresso is a coffee liquor that uses Flor de Caña 7-Year rum as a base. It has a dry aroma, intense black colour and a rich finish. Serve on the rocks, as a chilled Spresso shot or in a Spresso Martini.

Vanguard Luxury Brands

BARS&clubs 35

the bartender’s bible promotion

BROWN & BELGROVE RYE WHISKY Bright gold appearance.

Immediately appealing and distinctive with its dill/pickle opening scents. Second pass offers chamomile tea, hints of boiled lolly, cedary oak and peppermint.

A light, silky entry follows through to a super smooth and quite delicate profile featuring medium dry flavours of chamomile tea, sourdough bread and unusual notes of dill and caraway. Dry, mildly tannic finish. Aftertaste is subtle but shows good length.

Belgrove Distillery

36 BARS&clubs

STARWARD TWO-FOLD AUSTRALIAN WHISKY Two-Fold is entirely matured in Australian wine barrels and made using Australian wheat and malted barley. The result is an approachable, every-day whisky, providing bartenders the means to affordably mix and create premium cocktails using an Australian product. Soft aromatics of red fruit and warm vanilla spice are evident on the nose, balanced with a bright tropical fruit character and rich mouthfeel on the palate.

SouthTrade International

H BY HINE VSOP COGNAC The House of Hine stands on the banks of the River Charente, deep in Cognac country. It is one of the oldest cognac houses in Jarnac with over 250 years of history. H by Hine VSOP is a fine Champagne cognac, a blend of eaux-de-vie from grande and petit champagne grapes.

Vanguard Luxury Brands

the bartender’s bible promotion

BARREL-AGED MICHTER’S US*1 SINGLE BARREL STRAIGHT RYE WHISKEY Based in Louisville, Kentucky, Michter’s celebrates an extraordinarily rich heritage that dates back to 1753. The Michter’s team spares no expense in its efforts to produce the greatest American whiskey possible. US*1 Single Barrel Rye is made with select American rye, resulting in fresh spice notes and a soft, lingering finish.

Vanguard Luxury Brands

LAIRD’S APPLEJACK 86 PROOF Laird’s Applejack is an American apple brandy – with a history older than bourbon. Made from apples grown in Virginia and harvested in the US autumn, naturally fermented and aged 4-6 years. 86 Proof was first made in 1780 and discontinued during prohibition and is now back for the first time since 1933!

Vanguard Luxury Brands

WESTWARD AMERICAN SINGLE MALT WHISKEY Westward American Single Malt Whiskey awards an elegantly robust and fruity aroma, with creamy vanilla and brown sugar notes. Entry to the palate shows baking spice, lush fruit, and sweet malt. The finish begins with tobacco, dark chocolate, and leather with a lingering oak sweetness that gives way to stone fruit.

Baranows Emporium

BARS&clubs 37

the bartender’s bible promotion

A TOUCH BARSOL QUEBRANTA PISCO Distilled and bottled in one of the oldest distilleries in the Ica Valley, BarSol Quebranta is produced from the wine resulting from the first pressing of 100% Ica Valley Quebranta grapes. Adhering to the classic pisco pot distillation method used for centuries in Peru, Barsol is crafted in small batches and distilled to bottle proof; neither water nor any other ingredients are added, thereby creating an exceptional spirit of exquisite purity, clarity and smoothness.

Vanguard Luxury Brands

38 BARS&clubs

MASSENEZ CRÈME DE VIOLETTE

CRAWLEY’S BARTENDER SYRUPS – REAL FALERNUM

Made from the violet flower, G.E. Massenez Violette is a high-quality liqueur. With a fragrant floral nose, and a floral sweetness on the palate, this stunning liqueur is a must try for all cocktail connoisseurs. With over 140 years of experience, G.E. Massenez will be sure to impress those who enjoy the finer things in life. Better than a bouquet of violets for your valentine!

Cerbaco

The Crawley’s range of bartender syrups was created for discerning bartenders by multi-award winning bar expert Jason Crawley.

Crawley’s Real Falernum is a rich and spicy staple for all Tiki drinks, enhancing both classic and modern cocktails using a blend of fresh organic ginger juice and secret spices.

Vanguard Luxury Brands

the bartender’s bible promotion

OF CLASS OSCAR.697 ROSSO VERMOUTH Oscar.697 uses an exclusive recipe n°697 which respectfully adheres to the vermouth production guidelines imposed by the Italian authorities. The sugar level is kept relatively low at 14% to ensure the final product is drier and more bitter than other brands. It is made in Italy using strictly natural ingredients, with no colouring or artificial flavours. Rosso has a strong notes of absinthe, rhubarb and licorice.

Ideal on the rocks, shaken or in cocktails.

Vanguard Luxury Brands

DOLIN DRY

DUBONNET

Dolin Vermouths stand apart from their larger commercial counterparts by offering a notably lighter, drier and less pungent product. Since 1821, Dolin has been the benchmark in fine Vermouth, and the Dolin Dry is no exception.

Very pale crystalline robe tinged with gold.

Generous, full, intense nose of citrus peel, underscored by menthol and balsamic. Sheer elegance in vermouth.

Cerbaco

From its origins with the French Foreign Legion to the legions of modern mixologists still using it today, Dubonnet has been a staple on the cocktail landscape since its introduction in 1846. Dubonnet Rouge is a fortified wine with quinine, rich and slightly sweeter than the average sweet vermouth.

It is well known for its use in the ‘Zaza’ cocktail, often served with a twist of lemon and sometimes orange peel, which was Queen Elizabeth II’s favourite drink.

Cerbaco

MERLET CRÈME DE PÊCHE DE VIGNE Merlet Vineyard Peach liqueur (Crème de Pêche de Vigne) is made from a very rare variety of peaches once grown along the vineyards.

Sourced from Merlet’s partner producers in Ardèche, in order to guarantee consistent quality, the peaches are soaked in pure alcohol to extract all their flavours, then pressed and filtered.

Vanguard Luxury Brands

BARS&clubs 39

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s BARS&clubs begins on a new chapter, we thought it only fitting to look back and reflect on what has been a long and glittering history.

As you can see, the magazine underwent a number of evolutions over the years. From its launch at the tail-end of 1999 – just before the world entered a new millennium – right up until the most recent redesign resulting in its current (and final) print form, which debuted in November 2016, the magazine has regularly shed its skin to keep things fresh and engaging.

It’s interesting looking back over the pages. Some things have changed massively – the bars, brands, and 42 BARS&clubs

S • THE BLOODY AND BOTANICAL

(most of) the bartenders, not to mention the fashion – but one thing that hasn’t is the enthusiasm and passion people clearly have for this industry. No matter which issue you pick up, from the very first mag released in November 1999 to this one (issue no. 102!), you’ll find people having a great time. It’s a fun industry, and we’ll still be right here covering it – just in a different format.

We’re very excited to show you our next evolution. With a new website in the works, and plenty of ideas for the future direction of BARS&clubs, the good times are only just beginning.

RED, WHITE & BLUE American whiskeys for your cocktail list and US beers for your fridge

SUMMER DR

INKS Embrace jugs, Fros é and blenders THE BIG AP PLE What’s trending in NYC right now

PLUS: CIDER

BAC NOV-DEC

STYLES TO TRY

– PINA COLADA

– DEAD RABBIT:

THE WORLD’S

BEST BAR –

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SAVE THE DATE

Wednesday 23rd October 2019

www.liquorawards.com.au Early bird tickets: Kirsten Pain - 0412 142 993 or kpain@intermedia.com.au Sponsorship opportunities: Shane T Williams - 0431 857 765 or stwilliams@intermedia.com.au