The Gorge Magazine Fall 2013

FALL 2013 thegorgemagazine.com

the deschutes

Fly-Fishing Secrets

sunshine mill

More Than a Winery

Abrazo Style

Fashion With a Mission

The All-New 2014 Subaru Forester …it’s made for the Gorge

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All-New 2013 Subaru XV Crosstrek Right-sized, capable, and the most fuel-efficient all-wheel-drive crossover in America.* Love where it takes you. *Based on JD Power crossover segmentation and EPA-estimated highway fuel economy for 2013 XV Crosstrek CVT models. Actual mileage may vary.

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BOB STONE IS PROUD TO HAVE BEEN RECOGNIZED AS THE FIRST SUBARU STELLAR CARE AWARD WINNER IN THE STATE OF OREGON FOR THE SECOND YEAR IN A ROW.

Visit Historic Downtown

TRouTdAlE the gateway to the gorge Visit our many Specialty Shops, Art Galleries, Antique Shops, Fine Restaurants, and more!

Take Exit 17 off I-84

Taste of Village Two floors full of: Kitchenware, Glass, Native American, Pottery, Furniture, Primitives, Toys, Artwork & more! public parking available behind antique mall

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the gorge magazine // fall 2013 3

the sun…the gorge…the dalles

imagine…300 days of blissful sunshine

plus world-class fishing, cycling, hiking, wineries, and an authentic historic town surrounded by amazing landscape

stay connected: 541/296-2231 • visitthedalles.com facebook.com/TheDallesAreaChamber

On the Stage

4 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

In the Gallery

features 21 A MILL REBORN The repurposed Sunshine Mill has rejuventated the east end of The Dalles and brought soul to the city by don campbell

60 t he secret deschutes Exploring the mysteries of flyfishing, hidden in plain sight by scott sadil

Artichoke dip with toasted artisan bread, served at the Sunshine Mill in The Dalles

the gorge magazine // fall 2013 5

56 departments 10 Currents 12 Question + Answer 14 Things We Love 16 What's Happening 18 Person of Interest 76 Partake 82 A Thousand Words

38 outside More Than Just a Monolith History, geology, and recreation converge at Beacon Rock by adam lapierre 42 A rts + Culture For Love of Metal White Salmon jewelry artist Sarah Morton-Erasmus creates timeless pieces of wearable art, and more by janet cook 46 w ellness Making Physical Therapy Fun Bret Paulus finds innovative ways to treat patients at his Hood River clinic by janet cook

6 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

50 business profile Fashion with a Mission Abrazo Style brings hand-crafted chic to consumers and fair wages to the artisans who help create it by robin allen 56 h ome + Garden Renewable Home Furnishings get a new lease on life at The Dwelling Station by eileen garvin 72 bounty All the Trimmings The Tofurky Company rises with all things meatless by ruth berkowitz

50

editor Janet Cook creative director+graphic designer Rachel Hallett advertising director Micki Chapman account executives Joe Deckard, Jenna Hallett contributing editor Adam Lapierre intern Marcus Morrison contributing writers Robin Allen, Ruth Berkowitz, Don Campbell, Eileen Garvin, Adam Lapierre, Kacie McMackin, Scott Sadil, Bill Weiler cover photographer Jock Bradley contributing photographers Jock Bradley, Arlene Burns, Peter Cornelison, Silvia Flores, John Hardham, Jason Horn, Jennifer Jones, Tom Larimer, Christina LaFever, Aubrie LeGault, Adam Lapierre, Kacie McMackin, Michael Peterson, Denise Rehse-Watson

The Gorge Magazine is published by Eagle Magazines, Inc., an affiliate of Eagle Newspapers, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronically or mechanically, including photocopy, recording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Eagle Magazines, Inc. Articles and photographs appearing in The Gorge Magazine may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher. The views and opinions expressed in these articles are not necessarily those of The Gorge Magazine, Eagle Magazines, Inc., Eagle Newspapers, Inc., or its employees, staff or management.

All RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

305 Oak Street Hood River (541) 386-6188 twiggs@gorge.net unique jewelry ◉ home accents ◉ custom gifts ◉ since 1994

the gorge magazine // fall 2013 7

our gorge editor's letter

When I first met Molli Martin years ago through a mutual friend, I found her funny and engaging and easy to be around, even though we were mere acquaintances. I had no idea at the time that she and her husband, James, were embarking on a venture that would change their lives—and alter the cityscape of The Dalles. But they’ve done no less than that with the Sunshine Mill. James and Molli had only their original boutique winery, Quenett, when they dreamed up a plan for restoring the historic site—a former flour mill that had sat empty and decaying for years—to house their winery, plus a whole lot more.

After that came sheer perseverance, vital cooperation from the City of The Dalles, enormous amounts of blood, sweat, tears and money, a train ride in France, and maybe a bit of serendipity—not necessarily in that orOn a tour at Phelps Creek Vineyards, Hood River der. (For the full story, read Don’s Campbell’s piece starting on page 21.)

Their singular vision of what could be at a defunct industrial site has created a wealth of jobs and brought a welcome vibe to the Gorge’s largest city. And best of all, the story doesn’t end here, as plans call for further development of the expansive mill—including putting hotel rooms in the silos. We can’t wait to see how it evolves, but in the meantime, we’ll relax in the hip surroundings of the Sunshine Mill and sip some of the fruits of the Martins’ labor.

Speaking of wine, fall is in the air and that means harvest and crush—which always brings excitement and anticipation to Gorge vineyards and wineries. It’s a great time to visit them, take a vineyard tour, taste wine and enjoy some of the many special events happening at the more than three dozen wineries in the Gorge. Our special winery advertising section starts on page 32. Other stories in this issue include Adam Lapierre’s feature on hiking Beacon Rock (page 38), Eileen Garvin’s story about an upscale home furnishings consignment store in Mosier, The Dwelling Station, and a beautiful essay about fly-fishing on the Deschutes River by author Scott Sadil. And there’s more, of course. Read on! janet cook, editor

4 0 0 0 w e s t c l i f f d r i v e • h o o d r i v e r , o r e g o n • ( 5 4 1 ) 3 8 6 - 5 5 6 6 • w w w. c o lu m b i a g o r g e h o t e l . c o m

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Full-service meeting and banquet facilities that serve from five to 130 people.

8 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

dine

Simons Cliffhouse restaurant and Valentino Lounge.

Serving Northwest Cuisine.

relax

We invite you to indulge in relaxation and beauty at our full-service, on-site spa.

stay

Charming guestrooms with stunning views of the Columbia River or tranquil gardens.

FALL 2013 thegorgemagazine.com

the deschutes

Fly-Fishing secrets

sunshine mill

more than a Winery

AbrAzo style

Fashion With a mission

for all the things that move you We’re Windsurfers Kiters Skiers Paddlers Moms and Dads Community engaged

about the cover Tom Larimer of Hood River casts on the Deschutes River, where he's been fly-fishing—and guiding others on fly-fishing adventures through his company, Larimer Outfitters—for 13 years. The Deschutes River is renowned for its summer steelhead and resident trout, drawing fly-fishers from around the world to its wild beauty every year from spring through fall.

local expertise international exposure

We’re RE/MAX

cover photo by Jock Bradley | jockbradley.com fly-fishing guide Tom Larimer I larimeroutfitters.com

The Gorge Magazine (541) 399-6333 // thegorgemagazine.com PO BOX 390 // Hood River, Oregon 97031 RiveR City We appreciate your feedback. Please email comments to: jcook@thegorgemagazine.com

The Gorge Magazine is being produced by an environmentally conscientious group. Our publication is printed with text paper that is produced by a local mill located in West Linn, Oregon. West Linn paper mill and Journal Graphics, our publication printer, both follow FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) practices in the manufacturing and the printing of our product. This publication is also produced with soy based inks. When you have read this issue please pass it on to a friend or recycle it. Together we can make a difference in preserving and conserving our resources.

541.436.4400 • buyinthegorge.com 209 3rd Street • Downtown Hood River LICENSED IN OREGON AND WASHINGTON

our gorge currents

news + views Go For a Loop Heading out for a tour of the Hood River County Fruit Loop is practically a mandatory activity during autumn in the Gorge. And for good reason. The 35-mile loop through the Hood River Valley features nearly two dozen fruit stands and nine wineries. During fall, there’s a hub of activity at most of the stops on the Loop, ranging from U-pick fruit and flowers (and, of course, pumpkins) to pear and apple harvest celebrations. Crush is on at Gorge wineries during fall, making it a great time to visit the wineries and tasting rooms on the Loop—and don’t miss the fresh hard cider made at several places along the route. As a bonus, the fall foliage puts on a show along the Loop this time of year. (hoodriverfruitloop.com)

Bucket List

new bike park

If you’ve never rafted the White Salmon River, there’s no time like the present. The removal of Condit Dam in 2011 turned the White Salmon into a free-flowing river�from its spring-fed headwaters at the base of Mount Adams to its confluence with the Columbia� for the first time in 100 years. It’s taken nearly two years for the lower section of the river below the former dam to become navigable, but in August Zoller’s Outdoor Odysseys in BZ Corner began offering commercial float trips past the takeout at the former Northwestern Lake all the way to the mouth. As gorgeous and exciting as floating the river above the former dam is, what lies below is truly extraordinary. The canyon narrows to a series of towering basalt walls unlike anything upstream. The river’s lower section is expected to change significantly over the next few years as rocks settle, rapids evolve and the river reclaims its lower reaches.

Guide Zach Zoller says outfitters may or may not be able to offer trips down the lower section in years to come; it depends on how the river reshapes itself from year to year. (zooraft.com)

The White Salmon Bike Park opened this summer after a year of community effort and cooperation. Located on 19 wooded acres of city land bordering Jewett Creek, the bike park is a family-friendly, non-motorized mountain bike and BMX skills park. Features include multiple trails, jumps, berms and other challenges designed for riders of all ages and skill levels. Organizers plan to continue to add features and upgrades to the park, and are always looking for volunteer help. (whitesalmonbikepark.com) 10 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

Book It Wrath of the Caid is the second book in Gorge author Joe O’Neill’s series, Red Hand Adventures, aimed at young adult readers. The adventure tale picks up where the first book, Rebels of the Kasbah, ended—in Morocco in 1912.

Characters include the orphan Tariq and his friends, a pirate who is not what he seems, a deadly assassin, and a crippled warlord who will stop at nothing to protect his empire. Through the Red Hand Adventures website, O’Neill conducts writing and trivia contests. He also donates a portion of profits to charities.

hip sips Restaurant: Skamania Lodge the 509 Bartender: Greg Wilkins • 1¼ oz Apple Pie Moonshine • ½ oz Orange juice • ½ oz Sweet potato simple syrup Fill with hot water and garnish with an orange slice. harvest moon Bartender: Jaden Sullivan • 1¼ oz Absolut Vodka • ½ oz Sweet potato simple syrup • Dash of maple syrup, lemon juice and bitters

Fun and Games

Shake and strain into a martini glass, garnish with an orange twist and cinnamon stick.

Wy’east Vineyards has jumped in to the bocce craze, becoming the latest Gorge winery to install bocce courts. The ancient game, whose modern form dates to the Roman Empire, has been popular for years as a lawn game. Maryhill Winery installed bocce courts three years ago, and some other Northwest wineries have followed suit. Wy’east Vineyards’ two bocce courts are the real deal, with oyster shell beds for proper texture and drainage. “It’s fun for everyone,” says Wy’east Vineyards’ tasting room manager Keely Kopetz. “The rules are relatively simple. But it can get kind of competitive if you want it to.” Best of all, when playing, you don’t even have to put down your wine glass. (wyeastvineyards.com)

the gorge magazine // fall 2013 11

our gorge question + answer

What is the long-range plan for the Interstate Bridge?

MM: The Port has to manage the bridge to last as

long as possible and participate in regional efforts to replace it in the long term. The bridge was built in 1924. It was re-built and the lift span installed in 1938 when Bonneville Dam was constructed. The bridge is substandard relative to current standards, but it is also a vital economic link. Port staff and our bridge engineer work hard to maintain the bridge so that it will be safe and functional for many years.

We also recognize that the bridge will have to be replaced. The Port is part of a bi-state coalition that recently completed a Type, Size and Location (TSL) study that envisioned a new bridge just west of the existing one. The key challenge is funding; a new bridge is expected to cost over $200 million.

michael mCelwee

by janet cook

Michael McElwee has been the Port of Hood River’s executive director since 2006, overseeing the agency during a time of vast changes on the Hood River waterfront and elsewhere in its district. We asked him to fill us in on some of the Port’s happenings.

What is the purpose and function of the Port of Hood River?

MM: The Port is a municipal corporation, a public

agency in the state of Oregon. The Port was formed during the Depression year 1933 to develop industrial land and promote jobs and economic development. It is directed by a 5-member elected board.

The Port’s role has changed over the years along with the local economy. Today our functions include management of the Ken Jernstedt Airfield, Hood River Marina, Interstate Bridge and numerous recreational sites and development of industrial and office properties. The Port District encompasses about half of Hood River County.

More has happened with waterfront development on Port property during the last five years than in decades prior.

Can you give us some highlights?

MM: The waterfront is undergoing a dramatic trans-

formation largely the result of partnerships between the Port, City and private business. About six years ago the Port Commission identified development of the waterfront as its highest priority and came up with goals to guide the development process—including public participation, compatibility with recreation, high quality construction and job density. A significant capital investment

12 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

was made in construction of the Halyard Building.

Waterfront Park was constructed by the City of Hood River and local citizens. In the last five years about $22 million of private investment has been made in waterfront buildings and tenant improvements. Most of the this investment has been made by local businesses seeking to expand or grow in Hood River. These include larger established businesses such as Turtle Island Foods, Dakine, Hood River Juice Company and Interfluve. Others are smaller enterprises such as pFriem Family Brewers, Pocket Fuel, Real Carbon and Solstice Café.

Lot #1 (south of the Event Site and west of the Boat Basin) is the only remaining undeveloped property on the waterfront.

What can we expect to see here, and when?

MM: The Commission recognizes the importance

of developing this land thoughtfully and well. The port completed a concept plan for lot #1 early in 2013 that emphasized flexible light industrial/ office buildings, some retail structures and public access to and along the water. A more specific master plan will be done in 2014. The commission is taking a careful measured approach to planning the site and it's unlikely we'll see any buildings constructed on it for 3-5 years.

People always complain about the bridge toll. Tell us where the money goes.

MM: Maintenance and repair of the bridge is ex-

pensive. Since 1999 the Port has spent over $20 million on capital projects alone. These include a new deck, approach ramps, electrical system, toll plaza and painting. Other operational costs include routine maintenance, personnel, insurance, bridge lifts and inspections. Half of all toll receipts are specifically dedicated to a fund for repair and replacement of the bridge. The other half goes to the bridge but also for other functions of the Port including maintenance of recreation sites.

The Port is instigating major changes at the Ken Jernstedt Airfield. Tell us about this.

MM: The Ken Jernstedt airfield is a long-term eco-

nomic asset. The Western Antique Aeroplane and Automobile Museum immediately adjacent helps create one of the most unique and dynamic small airports in Oregon. This summer, the main runway was shifted about 600 feet to the East, improving safety. One unique aspect of the airfield is that it has an FAA-approved grass runway, built to better accommodate antique aircraft at WAAAM. As part of the runway shift project the grass runway has expanded.

What other projects does the Port have underway?

MM: We are completing an upgrade to the electri-

cal system in the marina and considering replacing the boathouse docks. Design work is underway for new bicycle/pedestrian trails near the Hood River footbridge and around the Nichols basin. We're evaluating the feasibility of creating a location for the farmers market on the waterfront. The port will also be looking at future options for re-use of the expo building site.•

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our gorge things we love

for locavores Comfort foods and drinks for fall—all made in the Gorge photos by denise rehse-watson

Ryan's Juice: Apple Pomegranate Juice, Organic Apple Juice ($8.39 per gal/$3.59 per qt), For more flavors and sizes, visit ryansjuice.com

Cascadia Creamery‌Aged, Raw, Hand-Crafted Cheese: Cloud Cap Cheese Wheel and Glacier Blue Wedge ($18-$25 per lb), cascadiacreamery.com

Lyle Style Bloody Mary Mix and Margarita Mix ($6 bottle/$100 case), lylestyle.net

Juanita's Fine Foods: Chips ($2.49), Tostada Shells ($2.49), Corn Tortillas ($1.59 30 ct/$3.69 80 ct), For more products visit juanitasfinefoods.com Veronica's Salsa: Picante and Mild ($3.49 16 oz), For more information call (541) 386-1692

14 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

Muirhead Canning Company: Hood-Crest Canned Fruit ($2.89 per can/$35 gift box), For more information, products by the case, and gift boxes visit muirheadcanning.com

Blissful Brownies: Classic Chocolate, Chocolate Orange, Chocolate Peanut Butter, German Chocolate ($4.00 each), For more flavors and a variety of gift boxes visit blissfulbrownies.com

Oregon Growers & Shippers: Whole Hazelnuts ($6.25), Quince Fruit Pate ($7.89), Jams & Butters ($6.95), For other products and gifts boxes visit oregongrowers.com Blue Skies Bakery: Classic Granola, Blue Heaven Leaven Signature Bread and Custom Embossed Round Loaf, Italian Ciabatta Rolls (prices vary per retail location), Find us on Facebook

McMenamins Edgefield: Pear Brandy Walnut Mix ($4.00), Spicy Dijon Mustard ($5.25), Terminator Mustard ($5.25), Available at McMenamin's Edgefield and online at shopmcmenamins.com

the gorge magazine // fall 2013 15

our gorge events calendar

1. 10th Annual Hood River Hops Fest, Hood River, September 28, 2. LoCash Cowboys Concert at the Columbia Gorge Hotel, Hood River, September 15 (The Factory by Goldy Locks), 3. Farmers Markets, throughout the Gorge, Every Thurs, Sat & Sun, 4. Hood River Harvest Ride, September 21, Hood River (photo by Peter Cornelison)

EVERY THURSDAY Gorge Grown Farmers Market Hood River Middle School gorgegrown.org

September 2 71st Annual Roy Webster Cross Channel Swim hoodriver.org

EVERY SATURDAY Goldendale Famers Market goldendalechamber.org

September 4 Craft Market Hood River ruralcraftrevival.com

Every sunday Camas Farmers Market Downtown Camas downtowncamas.com

september August 31-September 2 Labor Day Weekend Winery Open House columbiagorgewine.com Gear Swap Meet Luhr Jenson Parking Lot Hood River gorgewindsurfing.org

16 the gorge magazine // FALL 2013

September 6 Plein Air Fine Art and Wine Event Downtown Camas downtowncamas.com Hood River First Friday hoodriver.org Hood River’s Amazing Rock Paper Scissors Contest Andrew’s Pizza hoodriver.org First Friday Art Walk Historic Downtown Troutdale westcolumbiagorgechamber.com September 6-8 Pacific Crest Trail Days pcta.org

Bingen Huckleberry Festival huckleberry-fest.com Tofurky Fest & Grand Opening Hood River tofurky.com September 6-29 Pacific NW Plein Air Exhibition Hood River columbiaarts.org September 7 Aluminum Man Triathlon The Dalles racecenter.com/aluminumman Blues Train with Richard Wilkins Blues Band Mt. Hood Railroad hoodriver.org September 7-8 Annual Hood River Fly-In waaamuseum.org September 7-15 Living History Display & Pioneer Wagon Camp on the Barlow Road thedalleschamber.com

September 14 Second Saturday at WAAAM Hood River waaamuseum.org September 14-15 Historic Highway Revived Cascade locks skamania.org September 15 LoCash Cowboys Concert Hood River columbiagorgehotel.com September 21 Spring Creek National Fish Hatchery Open House fws.gov/gorgefish/springcreek Northwest Homesteading Fair Lyle nwhomesteading fair.wordpress.com Linda Hornbuckle with LaRonda Steele Concert bonnevilleresort.com Hood River Harvest Ride hrharvestride.com

Festival of Wheels Goldendale goldendalechamber.org September 21-22 Hood River County Fruit Loop Pear Celebration hoodriverfruitloop.com September 22 Gorge Kids Triathlon hoodriver.org September 25 Wine, Women & Wow Hood River find us on facebook September 28 International Model A Day Hood River waaamuseum.org Hood River Hops Fest hoodriver.org

october October 1November 11 Pumpkin Funland Rasmussen Farms Hood River rasmussenfarms.com October 2 Craft Market Hood River ruralcraftrevival.com October 4 Hood River First Friday hoodriver.org First Friday Art Walk Historic Downtown Troutdale westcolumbiagorgechamber.com Gorge Green Home Expo Springhouse Cellar gorgeowned.org October 4-5 Sailing the Gorge Cascade Locks sailingthegorge.com

October 5 “Reconnect to the River” Autumn Celebration The Dalles thedalleschamber.com Two Dam Punks 10k Trail Run columbiagorgerunningclub.com Gorge Green Home Tour gorgeowned.org October 5-6 Car Is King Weekend maryhillmuseum.org October 6 Dar Williams in Concert with Anne Weiss Hood River columbiaarts.org October 12 Hood River Photo Walk hoodriver.org Second Saturday at WAAAM Hood River waaamuseum.org October 18-20 Hood River Valley Harvest Fest hoodriver.org October 19-20 Fall Foliage Studio Tour Troutdale fallfoliagestudiotour.com October 26 Pumpkin Run 5 Mile Trail Run columbiagorgerunningclub.com Appraisal Fair Maryhill Museum maryhillmuseum.org October 26-27 Hood River County Fruit Loop Heirloom Apple Celebration hoodriverfruitloop.com October 27 Columbia Gorge Marathon columbiagorgemarathon.com

October 31 Safe Halloween Street Fair Downtown White Salmon white-salmon.net

november November 1 First Friday Artwalk Historic Downtown Troutdale westcolumbiagorgechamber.com

“… A pAddLER’S dREAM cOME TRuE …”

- NEW YORk TIMES, JANuARY 2013

November 2 Klickitat Trail Half Marathon and 5K Trail Run/Walk columbiagorgerunningclub.com Art Auction for The Dalles Art Center thedallesartcenter.org November 6 Craft Market Hood River ruralcraftrevival.com

WHITE SALMON RIVER

Sense of Place Lecture Series Columbia Center for the Arts gorgeowned.org November 8 Hood River Co. Christmas Project Gala Fashion Show facebook.com/GalaFashionShow November 8-10 Mt. Hood Independent Film Festival Hood River columbiaarts.org November 9 Second Saturday at WAAAM Hood River waaamuseum.org November 28 Turkey Trot 5k Fun Run/Walk columbiagorgerunningclub.com November 29December 1 Thanksgiving Weekend Winery Open House columbiagorgewine.com

Raft or Kayak the White Salmon River with Wet Planet.

Call & reserve now to receive a 5% Gorge Magazine Discount!

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the gorge magazine // FALL 2013 17

our gorge person of interest

For Columbia Riverkeeper’s executive director, there’s rarely a dull moment by janet cook

Brett VandenHeuvel is unbothered by the heat on a sweltering summer day in his second-floor office in downtown Hood River. The lack of air conditioning is but a minor detail in his life as executive director of Columbia Riverkeeper, for his attention is focused not here in his stifling office but rather a mile to the north, on the cool waters of the Columbia. For it is the river, and the constant vigilance required in the quest to make it cleaner and healthier now and for the generations to come, for which his job exists. And Brett VandenHeuvel clearly loves his job.

The winding path he followed to get here seems, in hindsight, to have led here all along. He grew up in Michigan, where he fell in love with water, and graduated with a degree in geology from Hope College. He landed a job with the Oregon Museum of Science and Industry in Portland working as a naturalist and educator at the museum’s science camps.

After a few years, with a growing interest in climate change he headed to the University of Maine in pursuit of a master’s degree. As part of his studies in quaternary science and climate

18 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

change, he conducted fieldwork on glaciers in Antarctica and Alaska. “I loved the fieldwork,” VandenHeuvel says, “but I got frustrated by the lack of action.” He told his wife that he was tired of being objective, that he wanted to pick a side. “It sounds like you want to be a lawyer,” she told him. He didn’t disagree.

Having fallen for Oregon, he headed to Lewis & Clark Law School, graduating with honors in 2005. He hung a shingle, doing miscellaneous work representing neighborhood groups and environmental organizations. Columbia Riverkeeper became one of his clients, and within a year he was working as the organization’s staff attorney—which soon turned into a full-time job.

“I loved it,” VandenHeuvel says.

“I love the Waterkeeper model: an organization working to protect a specific body of water.” Columbia Riverkeeper is a member of the Waterkeeper Alliance, a consortium of more than 200 Waterkeeper Organizations around the world that work to protect local bodies of water through citizen action and enforcement of environmental laws. It was

perfect for VandenHeuvel; he got to use his scientific and legal background to protect a river he’d come to love. He got to pick a side.

VandenHeuvel took over as Columbia Riverkeeper’s executive director in 2009. He still does a lot of legal work, but also spends time on policy issues, public education, grassroots organizing, volunteer training, on-the-river monitoring, and grant writing.

“That’s one of the exciting things about it,” he says, grinning. “It’s something different every day.”

VandenHeuvel isn’t doing all these things alone. Columbia Riverkeeper has nine full-time staff members— up from three when he started. But VandenHeuvel happily gets to dabble in all of it. He even leads the organization’s renowned Hanford Paddle Trips each summer, which take participants on an 18-mile guided tour down the Hanford Reach, past mothballed nuclear reactors on the Hanford Nuclear Site. “It’s this fascinating environmental place, but also very heavy historically,” he says. “We paddle right along past the nuclear reactors that powered World War II.”

Other work seems more mundane, like the three years he and his staff spent pushing for stronger limits on toxic pollution in Oregon waterways. It paid off, though, when the Oregon Department of Environmental Quality passed the most protective limits in the nation. “I love to work on those clean water policy issues—that wonky policy work,” VandenHeuvel says. But he’s just as happy to be out in the Riverkeeper patrol boat testing for spilled coal dust and other pollutants, or working with the more than 100 volunteers trained to do water quality monitoring.

Along with a growing cadre of volunteers, Columbia Riverkeeper’s membership also has grown in recent years. “There’s a lot going on with the Columbia right now,” VandenHeuvel says. “People care about it.” The prospect of increased coal transport through the Gorge is a big issue for the organization. VandenHeuvel’s responsibilities range from technical and legal work to helping organize turnout for public meetings. What could seem like drudgery is energizing for VandenHeuvel. “Up and down the river, people are standing up for what’s important to them,” he says. “It’s invigorating.”

Equally important to VandenHeuvel is keeping alive issues that don’t get much press—like Hanford.

Once a hot topic for Northwest residents, clean-up of the former nuclear site�with its spreading plumes of radioactive waste�has dragged on so long that people have lost interest.

“We're never going to get it cleaned up if people don't know about it or care about it,”he says.

Fortunately, he relishes the challenges of his nonstop work. “For me, it’s overwhelming to not be active,” he says. For VandenHeuvel, his work is also personal; he and his wife have two young boys they're raising in Hood River, where they play in the Columbia and eat fish from it.

“The Columbia River is such a special place to so many people,” he says. “I feel really honored to work to protect it.”•

Columbia Center for the Arts presents the second Mt. Hood Independent Film Festival Venues include: Columbia Center for the Arts Springhouse Cellar Andrew’s Skylight Theater Featuring Screenings from the Northwest and Around the World

Catagories include: NARRATIVE ANIMATION DOCUMENTARY SPORTS DOCUMENTARY AND INDEPENDENT FILMS MADE IN THE NORTHWEST OPENING RECEPTION for fans & filmmakers Friday, November 8, 7pm Full schedule of screenings and discussions with filmmakers, actors and artists available by September 15th

www.columbiaarts.org AWARDS CEREMONY for winning films Sunday, November 10, 5pm

the gorge magazine // FALL 2013 19

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By Don Campbell • Photos by Aubrie LeGault

the gorge magazine // fall 2013 21

I

t’s a hulking beast at The Dalles’ east end, but one that melts into the landscape by virtue of the 130 years it has sat there. Time breeds familiarity, the kind that makes you look right through it and by it year after year after year. A genuine skyscraper in a town where those don’t generally manifest, its tall weathered towers and deep footprint suggest a roaring history of industry, but the mammoth mill with the happy name hasn’t felt the dust and grind of conveyor belts and assembly line flour for the nation’s biscuits, cheese crackers and dog kibble for more than 30 years.

But there’s abundant life there in that pocked concrete, and it is found down low at ground level. Seventh-generation residents of The Dalles Molli and James Martin, with the cooperation of practically everybody in these parts, have warmed up

22 the gorge magazine // summer 2013

the cold walls of the Sunshine Mill with a venture that redefines risk, rehabilitation, urban renewal and the kind of dizzying success that only comes along once in a lifetime, if that.

The one-and-a-half-acre mill site is the home of the Martins’ Quenett and Copa Di Vino wineries. It’s a lively tasting room and party place decorated with the reconditioned accouterments of the old mill itself—antiquated belt housings become tables, and old doors and heat radiators become bars, with ancient pulleys and belts and electrical gauges and switches that would spark envy in Dr. Frankenstein. Behind the scenes, the place thrums with the production of the Martins’ singular Copa Di Vino—“Wine by the Glass”—a line of single-serving wines that is taking the nation by storm, as well as its deft Quenett offerings of Zinfandel, Barbera, Sangiovese, Viognier and Chardonnay among its bottlings.

A de facto community hall, the Sunshine Mill also offers movies and live music outdoors in its amphitheater in the summer, serves port and cigars in its Boiler House Bar, and caters to the wedding-and-events crowd with the low-ceilinged bunkercum-party room housed directly under the giant silos. Perhaps most importantly, the Sunshine Mill is providing some economic stimulus to a region that sorely needs it.

From vacant and forgotten to vital and vibrant, the Sunshine Mill got its rebirth at the hands of the Martins in a nearly perfect storm of events that both of them envisioned but neither could have predicted. The City of The Dalles had purchased the property from Keebler (which had basically bought out the competi-

tion with no intent to ever actually use the facility) in the hopes that something could be done with it, and then issued a request for proposal in 2006.

The Martins had come back to their hometown and the family cherry farm in 1998 after various forays in the region (Molli is a teacher and James had pursued high-tech marketing and sales among other things) and had launched the Quenett label to satisfy James’ urge to get into winemaking.

“We had just released Quenett in a tasting room in Hood River,” says Molli. We eventually wanted to have our winery here in The Dalles, something to draw people here. It had to be big.

It’s hard to draw people to The Dalles.”

James saw the RFP and was “frantic,” The antipasti platter, featuring four gourmet according to Molli. “He only had 90 cheeses, is part of the Mill's regular menu. days to get it in.”

He needn’t have worried. The Martins were the only ones to answer the call, and that set them on a course to convert the hulking beast into a showplace for their wines, with huge cooperation from the city. Then the recession hit and it looked like their dreams wouldn’t be realized. The Martins sold their one family asset—their cherry orchard—and got a cash infusion from the city to continue their push.

But it was a bike trip to Provence, France, to celebrate the couples’ 20-year wedding

the gorge magazine // fall 2013 23

The tasting room at Sunshine Mill

24 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

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Brenda Thomas, president of Orchard View Farms, is a great-granddaughter of the company’s founder, Walter Bailey, part of the fourth family generation to operate the fruit company.

Orchard View processes some 25 tons of cherries an hour during the peak of the eight-week season.

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the gorge magazine // fall 2013 25

last fall, their copa pinot gris won a blind-tasting best-of-show for white wine at the northwest food and wine festival—not bad for a glass of vino that can sit in its environmentally sound packaging for a year without losing any of its flavor. anniversary in 2007 that provided the inspiration that would truly help make their dream come true. On a train ride, the couple sampled some wine served in a single-serving container.

Light bulbs appeared over their heads. Had this been done in America? Would it translate across the pond? The pair undertook some market research over the course of a year and discovered that there had been a couple of failed attempts (including a story that film auteur and winemaker Francis Ford Coppolla gave it a shot and came up short). The duo met with the French wine company, Quart Vin, and its owner, Pascal Carvin, with whom they developed a strong bond, secured the necessary proprietary equipment and atmospheric know-how, and brought the idea home in 2009.

“We thought,” says Molli, “it could be big.”

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And they were right. Business overall is up 65 percent over last year and they have become the second largest winery in Oregon and the first Gorge winery to hit the top 25. Production of their Copa wines, which employs 70 people, grew 200 percent in the last year. The product can be found in 42 states. By year’s end they’ll have some 27 salespeople blanketing the country. Last fall, their Copa Pinot Gris won a blind-tasting best-of-show for white wine at the Northwest Food and Wine Festival—not bad for a glass of vino that can sit in its environmentally sound packaging for a year without losing any of its flavor.

Where Molli is Sunshine Mills’ enthusiasm and passion, James, she offers, is the visionary. “Anyone who doubted him before, they’re not doubting him now,” she says with a smile. For a site that was scheduled for demolition, the Sunshine Mill now

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employs some 120 people in a community that needed it—including their daughter Natasha who is learning the business firsthand and may someday take the reins.

The Martins have planted an additional 110 acres of grapes on a 400-acre site employing 85 and are headed for estate bottling much of the Quenett label. They have plans for 42 hotel rooms, up in the mill’s silos, and recently purchased a block of offices nearby to help expand their burgeoning empire.

But doesn’t such rapid growth and business dynamics bring on bouts of anxiety and panic? “Panic?” echoes James. “Every day! It’s madness. But I’m kind of like a kid in a candy store, just seeing the impact on our small community. I’m living a fairy tale right now.” His drive is also fueled by a strong sense of Oregon pride. “I love Oregon,” he says. “We’re selling Oregon across the country. It’s exciting having people find us.”

James has moved much of the bottling operation into an old warehouse space on the Sunshine Mill site. Here three fairly small but highly complex bottling lines are running 24/7, pushing wine into the single-serving Copa cups in a proprietary process that removes deleterious oxygen from the wine, replaces it with an inert gas, and seals it completely, enabling each cup to retain its flavor for up to a year. Within the warehouse are two laboratory spaces designed to help maintain exact quality. White-

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the gorge magazine // fall 2013 27

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the gorge magazine // fall 2013 29

the columbia gateway urban renewal agency board of directors, which is comprised of city councilors, voted recently to finalize the sale of the mill site to the martins’ limited liability corporation, discover development, the terms of which include the streetscape improvements and roundabout at that end of town. the sale is expected to close in 2015. clad workers in hairnets and safety glasses tend the lines and pack the boxes, jobs that didn’t exist a few short years ago.

“It’s…exciting,” says Molli for the umpteenth time, barely containing her infectious enthusiasm for what has transpired over the last few years. And plans proceed apace. The Columbia Gateway Urban Renewal Agency board of directors, which is comprised of city councilors, voted recently to finalize the sale of the mill site to the Martins’ limited liability corporation, Discover Development, the terms of which include the streetscape improvements and roundabout at that end of town. The sale is expected to close in 2015.

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The real fruits rest in the bottle and the glass and in the Martins’ sense of pride and satisfaction. Out of mill dust has arisen a venture marked by passion, drive and cooperation that federal legislators would do well to template and replicate across the land for how urban renewal can work. James pulls me into the old bank vault in the Sunshine Mills’ new office space. He keeps it now as an archive of his wines—some awardwinners, some just simple reminders and keepsakes. His dusty bottles sit in what used to be coin racks, from back when coins held heft and currency was measured by sheer weight in a tough river town built by agriculture and industry. For James and Molli, their fresh mintings might well be the currency of things to come.

Don Campbell is a freelance writer who divides his time between Portland and Mosier.

He's a frequent contributor to The Gorge Magazine.

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the gorge magazine // fall 2013 33

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These are exciting times in the Gorge for wine lovers. The quality of wine being made here continues to rise. The range of winegrapes that thrive here seems only to grow. And every new winery that opens—each with its own unique setting, story and ambiance—provides another reason for locals and visitors to embrace this culture that feels as much an organic part of life in the Gorge as treefruit and windsports and breathtaking views.

And truly, it is. Winegrowing in the Gorge goes back a long way. In the 1880s the Jewett family, founders of White Salmon, built terraces on the bluff above the Columbia where they planted vines they’d brought from the Midwest. To the east,

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near what is now Lyle, English immigrant John Balfour planted grapevines more than a century ago. And in The Dalles, an Italian stonemason planted a vineyard of Zinfandel grapes in the late 1800s that today produces some of the finest old vine Zinfandel around, courtesy of winemaker Lonnie Wright of The Pines 1852. That vineyard is one of the oldest in the Northwest.

In the 1980s, a few intrepid souls began to revive winegrowing in the Gorge after a long period of dormancy. Winemakers realized that the vast variations in rainfall, temperature and soils from the central to the eastern Gorge translated into prime growing conditions for a wide variety of grapes. More subtle variations, too—distance from the river and elevation, for example—added to the diversity and abundance possible in Gorge vineyards. Winegrowers began to produce quality wines that garnered attention and respect, and from there the Gorge wine scene took root.

In 2004 the Columbia Gorge was officially designated an American Viticultural Area (AVA) by the federal government—bordering, on its eastern end, the renowned Columbia Valley AVA. At the time, there were fewer than 300 acres of grapes planted on a handful of vineyards in the Gorge. There were seven wineries. Nine years later, at least 26 vineyards are in production and the Gorge is home to more than three dozen wineries. Perhaps most remarkable of all, nearly 30 grape varieties are grown in the Gorge, making it one of the most prolific winegrowing regions on earth.•

the gorge magazine // fall 2013 35

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36 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

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the gorge magazine // fall 2013 37

outside Over time, the floods eroded the softer, outer shell of Beacon Rock, leaving the hardest core of basalt that solidified around the volcanic vent. This is the proud stone soldier we see today keeping watch over the river.

50,000 years ago. Relatively young geologically speaking, the vent rose out of its surroundings until lava within the tube hardened and sealed it off from the volcanic network below. A coneshaped pillar remained to face the forces of time.

These days the rock and surrounding area are abuzz with activity in all but the worst of Northwest weather. Beacon Rock is surrounded by a state park, and within a few miles of the rock—located about four miles west of Bonneville Dam—are campgrounds, a marina, a golf course, a disc golf course, rock climbing, hiking trails and the small town of North Bonneville.

The Beacon Rock you see today, however, is not what was left behind after the vent drifted into dormancy. At the end of the last ice age, between 15,000 and 13,000 years ago, the cataclysmic Missoula Floods swept down the Columbia River, dramatically changing the

More Than Just a Monolith

History, geology and recreation converge at Beacon Rock

landscape and creating an early version of today’s Gorge. The floods were caused when prehistoric Lake Missoula—located in present-day Montana—broke through its ice dam, sending mind-boggling quantities of water and ice thundering west, eventually funneling down the Columbia River and spilling into the Willamette Valley. The floods occurred many times over two thousand years, and are thought to

story and photos by adam lapierre

be some of the largest floods ever to occur on Earth.

One of the most distinct landmarks along the

diverse landscapes of the Cascade Mountain

Columbia River, Beacon Rock stands in proud

Range and the Columbia River Gorge.

Over time, the floods eroded the softer, outer shell of Beacon Rock, leaving the hardest core

defiance of the glacial forces that shaped the

The 848-foot-tall freestanding monolith (one

of basalt that solidified around the volcanic

Gorge. A visit to the area today offers impres-

of the largest of its kind in the world) is identi-

vent. This is the proud stone soldier we see to-

sive reminders of the volcanic past that laid

fied geologically as a volcanic plug, formed by

day keeping watch over the river.

the foundation for the stunning scenery and

a vent that released steam and magma some

38 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

A mile-long trail meandering up the west

D STOP+SHOP IN DOWNTOWN STEVENSON

side of the rock has its own fascinating history. (“Trail,” in this case, is a loose term, as a good portion of the route up is carved stone and catwalks that zigzag in tight switchbacks straight up the west side of the cliff.) In the early 1900s the entire rock faced destruction by dynamite, as workers constructing the Columbia River jetty at the river’s mouth near Astoria intended to blow it up and use the pieces for rip-rap. The rock was spared, however, and in 1915 Henry Biddle

mit, and although it has been repaired and improved in places, the

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bought it for a dollar with the explicit purpose of building a trail to the top.

It took three years to construct the series of carved-stone switchbacks (52 in all), handrails and bridges (22) needed to reach the sum-

on the way up and from the crown of Beacon Rock are spectacular. Safe and well-protected, but climbing hundreds of feet up the side of a sheer cliff, the trail offers a little something for everyone.

Its grade is mellow enough to be labeled beginner-friendly, but the locale and dramatic views are impressive enough to satisfy even seasoned Gorge hikers. Rock climbing is also allowed on specific faces during certain seasons, and provides a variety of technical, multipitch pillar and crag routes that attract climbers from around the world.

Stevenson’s newest retail shopping experience.Modern cottage lifestyle and unique gifts. Contemporary women’s clothing and accessories collection with a hip vibe. Pared down, repurposed, industrial inspired interior sets the tone for an urban shopping experience in the small historic mill town of Stevenson, Washington. out on a limb—playful, fresh and on trend.

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the gorge magazine // fall 2013 39

outside

In addition to the popular summit trail and about 500 acres of open park space along the Columbia River, Beacon Rock State Park has another 4,500 acres of forest, a variety of roads and trails and two campgrounds on the north side of Highway 14 in the Hamilton Mountain area.

The name “Beacon Rock” dates back to when

In addition to the popular summit trail and

Lewis and Clark camped in its shadow on their

about 500 acres of open park space along the

journey west in 1805. They first labeled it “Beat-

Columbia River, Beacon Rock State Park has

The park also offers a boat launch and over-

en Rock” in their journals, noting that this was

another 4,500 acres of forest, a variety of roads

night moorage; fishing for sturgeon, salmon,

the first place on the river they observed tidal

and trails and two campgrounds on the north

steelhead, bass and walleye; mountain biking

influences from the Pacific Ocean. Upon their

side of Highway 14 in the Hamilton Mountain

and horse trails; and several day-use picnic

return trip upriver from the ocean the next

area. A trip up the Hearty Ridge Trail or to the

shelters. Make sure to get either a day or season

spring, they renamed it “Beacon Rock,” which is

2,445-foot summit of Hamilton Mountain is not

Washington State Parks Discover Pass when

appropriate since the rock was used for thou-

to be overlooked for hikers wanting a longer

visiting any part of Beacon Rock State Park. Al-

sands of years by Native American travelers as a

and less traveled escapade in the Gorge. The

though the $10-per-day pass may seem steep,

beacon marking the transition of violent rapids

nine-mile round trip hike to the summit is steep

the $99 ticket you can get for not having it is

to the east and the calmer, tidal-influenced wa-

and rocky, but rewards hikers with an array of

even harder to swallow. And with everything

ter to the west.

cascading waterfalls on its way to spectacular

there is to see and do here, it’s well worth it.❉

40 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

views you can’t get from lower down the food chain of day hikes.

Nearby Attractions » beacon rock golf course Th is nine-hole, par 36 course celebrated its 40th anniversary in 2011. It’s a friendly, laid-back course but the dramatic Gorge backdrop rivals even the highest-brow country clubs. The course is located five miles west of the Bridge of the Gods in North Bonneville. » disc golf in north bonneville A popular 18-hole disc golf course weaves its way through the town’s central park and open spaces. After turning into North Bonneville, pass the gas station on your right and look for a parking lot on your left. Park there, walk down a path between the post office and the city hall and look for the first tee near the pedestrian underpass. The course is well maintained, but watch out for rogue poison oak and blackberry bushes. » bonneville dam visitor’s center: the washington shore visitor’s complex Th is complex offers an up-close view of the operations on the north side of Bonneville Dam. An underwater fish ladder viewing window, interpretive information, fishing areas and a boat launch, a smolt monitoring facility and the Fort Cascades Historic Site and Trail are all free and accessible from the entrance off Highway 14 just a few miles west of the Bridge of the Gods.

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» columbia gorge interpretive center museum Th e museum focuses on early Native American inhabitants of the Gorge and the development of the area by white settlers. It houses a fascinating array of historic photographs and exhibits of early 19th century machinery used in the Gorge—including a 37foot high replica of a fish wheel. The museum is located just off Highway 14 on Rock Creek Drive, about a mile west of Stevenson. » cape horn trail This trail is made up of two segments, one above the highway and the other below it. It features some steep, rocky terrain— particularly on the lower part—as well as single track and road sections, but hikers are rewarded with some of the most stunning views of the Gorge anywhere. The upper segment includes the Nancy Russell Overlook, dedicated to the co-founder of Friends of the Columbia Gorge—and where there was once slated to be a subdivision, which was the catalyst for Russell's lifelong dedication to protecting the Gorge. The trailhead is located eight miles west of Beacon Rock, just off Highway 14 on Salmon Falls Road.

the gorge magazine // fall 2013 41

arts + culture

For Love of Metal

more decorative and sculptural work. She also tinkered around with scraps, creating her own metal art.

But when it came time for her to go to col-

White Salmon jewelry artist Sarah Morton-Erasmus creates timeless pieces of wearable art, and more

lege, Morton-Erasmus planned to run in the

by janet cook // photos by silvia flores

sity of Oregon, determined not to become an

opposite direction. She enrolled at the Univerartist. She began studying international affairs

Sarah Morton-Erasmus had a stereotypical Or-

under the Morton’s Copper Company moni-

egon upbringing. She grew up outside Eugene

ker. Her dad also was one of the original ven-

in Veneta, a few miles from where the Oregon

dors at Portland Saturday Market in the 1970s.

Country Fair is held each summer. Her dad, a

“We were super arts-and-crafts Oregonians,”

coppersmith, had a booth there every year

Morton-Erasmus said. As a kid, she helped her

where he and the family were fixtures, selling

dad in his studio, first with the French-inspired

handcrafted copper cookware and other works

cookware he became known for, then with

42 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

and business. But her heart wasn’t in it, and creativity was in her genes. After some convincing by her dad, she began dabbling in art classes.

As fate would have it, internationally-acclaimed jeweler and metalsmith Marcia Macdonald was doing a teaching stint at the university at the time, and Morton-Erasmus enrolled in one of her classes. She quickly became Morton-Eras-

Much of her jewelry is made from oxidized silver, because she likes the look, but she uses other metals as well. She began selling her work in Hood River’s Twiggs gallery and Silverado, as well as in galleries in Portland, New York and Philadelphia. mus’s mentor and helped set her on her career path. “I began following in papa’s footsteps,” Morton-Erasmus said, wryly.

set her work apart from others.

As she was finding her niche in the art world, Morton-Erasmus made one of her frequent vis-

Morton-Erasmus graduated in 1999 with a

its to the Gorge in 2002 for the wedding of her

fine arts degree in metalsmithing and moved

sister, who’d lived in Hood River for years. Dur-

to New York to begin her career as an artist. She

ing her visit, she met Christiaan Erasmus, then a

honed her skills on both small- and large-scale

chef at the former Abruzzo Italian Grill in Hood

metal works, but became particularly inter-

River. Two weeks later he moved to New York

ested in jewelry. A couple of jewelry artists she

and the rest, as they say, is history.

admired were using a unique fusing technique

Within a year, the couple moved back to

to create a “hinge” that could be incorporated

the Gorge and Morton-Erasmus began work-

in several ways into their jewelry. She studied

ing on her jewelry in a home studio. “My goal

the jewelry and tried to deconstruct how it was

when I left New York was to come up with a

done, but couldn’t figure out how the gem-

production jewelry line that I could continually

stones were not being melted in the process.

add to,” she said. Along with her unique pinned

Eventually, a fellow artist gave her a tip. “There’s

connection, Morton-Erasmus began creating

a paintbrush involved,” she remembers him say-

different types of clasps for her pieces, further

ing. That was all she needed. Morton-Erasmus

distinguishing her work. “I love the way things

began creating jewelry using this pinned con-

go together, how they move,” she said. “It’s all

nection, which has become a signature detail

about the movement.” Much of her jewelry is

in her work. “I’ve used that element as a theme

made from oxidized silver, because she likes

throughout all my jewelry,” she said. The subtle

the look, but she uses other metals as well. She

detail is time-consuming to create, but it helps

began selling her work in Hood River’s Twiggs

the gorge magazine // fall 2013 43

arts + culture

gallery and Silverado, as well as in galleries in Portland, New York and Philadelphia.

In 2010, Morton-Erasmus got a chance to work with her dad once again when the two collaborated on the interior metalwork at her husband’s new restaurant in White Salmon, Henni’s Kitchen & Bar. The pair created the bar, lights, tables and copper wall panels. “It was a great opportunity to work together,” she said.

The foray into larger-scale metalwork—particularly the wall panels—left her wanting to do more. Toward that end, she formed her company, M.E. Jewelry Company & Atelier. In February, she moved into a space in the Hatchery Studio Arts Building in White Salmon, where she has the space to work on both jewelry and larger metalwork projects.

“I wanted that feeling of an artisanal company,” said Morton-Erasmus, who hopes to grow to where she can employ several people to help create her hand-crafted jewelry and metalwork. “Atelier is French for ‘workshop,’” she said, adding that it’s the part of her company name that allows her to explore and expand her repertoire. “Sometimes it’s copper countertops, sometimes it’s jewelry.”

That exploration of art through metals— which is seemingly innate to her—is what keeps Morton-Erasmus passionate about her work. “When I was growing up, we did a lot of flea markets and antiques shopping in our travels, and it was always the metal objects I was interested in—how they can have that sort of heirloom quality to them, be something you’d pass down, and yet still be related to fashion,” she said. “I was always attracted to metals.” ❉

For more about Sarah Morton-Erasmus and her jewelry and other work, go to mejewelryco.com

44 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

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the gorge magazine // fall 2013 45

wellness

Making Physical Therapy Fun

ming, surfing, windsurfing and telemark skiing.

Through actively pursuing these sports over decades, and years spent helping clients recover and rehab from injuries and surgery, Paulus has come up with a physical therapy model that stresses “core movements.” At the center of it is

Bret Paulus finds innovative ways to treat patients at his Hood River clinic

the “dynamic upper and lower core integration,”

by janet cook // photos by adam lapierre

and learning to maintain a quiet, neutral core

Paulus said. “The lower core is driving the legs, the upper core is driving the arms.” Achieving from where all movements emanate is the key

When you talk with physical therapist Bret Pau-

“The physical therapy protocol is so boring,

lus, you can practically see the neurons firing in

it’s left to the clinician to synthesize it and come

his brain as he whirs through a litany of subjects

up with fun stuff,” said Paulus, who has been

ranging from his latest inventions, music histo-

a physical therapist for 30 years, 21 of them in

ry, string theory and general ideas he happens

Hood River. “That’s what we try to do—read be-

to be thinking about at the moment. You get

tween the lines and develop our own protocol

the feeling he could have pursued any number

within the PT restrictions.”

of careers, but if you wind up at his Hood River

Paulus brings to his practice not only his for-

clinic, Synergy Rehab + Fitness, you may find

mal education and training in physical therapy

yourself glad he decided on physical therapy.

(a PT degree from Northwestern University, fol-

He not only has a passion for it but also pursues

lowed by clinical work in Portland before mov-

a progressive approach to injury rehab, preven-

ing to Hood River), but his own background in

tion and general fitness.

multiple sports—including competitive swim-

46 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

to injury prevention, rehab and fitness maintenance, in Paulus’s book.

His focus on the core and a desire to explore “core-driven movement arts” as part of physical therapy (aikido, jodo, tai chi and yoga are some examples) are what inspired Paulus to leave his longtime practice as a partner in Columbia Gorge Physical Therapy and open Synergy a little over a year ago. “I needed to get away from the standard model,” he says. For Paulus, that applied to many things related to physical therapy, including the clinic setting itself.

The Synergy clinic is designed around one big

“The physical therapy protocol is so boring, it’s left to the clinician to synthesize it and come up with fun stuff. That’s what we try to do—read between the lines and develop our own protocol within the PT restrictions.”

–Brett Paulus, owner of Synergy Rehab + Fitness open space—an “open treatment room” as Paulus calls it. There are a

Complete Foot & Ankle Care

couple of standard physical therapy rehab machines in the room, but

Dr. Kessa Mauras and staff are dedicated to providing the very best in foot and ankle care through preventative techniques, patient education and creating a caring and professional atmosphere.

there’s a bevy of sports equipment of various kinds as well as implements used in jodo, aikido and other martial arts that are integral to Synergy. Mirrors line one wall, giving it the feel of a dance or martial arts studio.

There are a couple of private rooms, and Paulus is conscious of patients’ privacy, but he purposefully created the open clinic space. “It’s an open establishment,” he said. “The message is: come in. You might have one leg, you might have cancer, you might be an 18-year-old athlete. Whatever it is, you’re accepted here.”

Another important tenet of Paulus’s practice is creating treatment regimens that include real-life simulation drills and exercises—move-

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ments that a patient will actually be subjected to in their day-to-day life. This can include actual strengthening and balance work on, say, a windsurf board balanced on a BOSU ball. Or, if skiing is your thing, your rehab might include core work that has you simulate skiing gates. Paulus jokes about the stick-figure drawings he and his team create for patients for their home exercises. “The PT protocol has all sorts of diagrams you can print out,” he says, “but none of them show the things we’re doing.” Coming up with client-specific treat-

the gorge magazine // fall 2013 47

wellness was envisioning his new clinic, Paulus drew a circle on a piece of posterboard and wrote “physical therapy” inside it. Then he drew arrows extending out from the circle; at the end of each arrow he wrote the name of one of the movement arts. “Okay, what is this?” he recalls thinking. “If the arrow goes out and comes back in, this combination, this cooperative element between all these different disciplines—this is a synergistic way to approach physical therapy.”

Synergy maintains a regular weekly schedule of classes in these disciplines, which are open to clinic patients and to the general public. “I wanted to put them into the main part of the practice so patients could pick and choose between elements that all have that similar coredriven neutral posture treatment focus,” Paulus said. Patients aren’t required to participate, of course, but Paulus recommends the classes to patients depending on their interest, ability and goals. Having the classes open to the public goes along with his view of Synergy as a sort of community resource center. In addition, a portion of the fees from the classes ($12 per class for drop-ins, $10 per class for a multiclass punch card) goes into a scholarship fund for graduating Hood River Valley High School seniors who are pursuing further education in a health-related field or music—two of Paulus’s ment regimens is vital to Paulus. For one thing,

prevention, recovery and rehab, but stresses

after 30 years as a physical therapist, he knows

that Synergy isn’t just for them. “We get a blend

that the only way a patient is going to follow

of sports people and others,” he said. “Someone

through with home exercises is if those exer-

with Parkinson’s, for example, is going to ben-

cises relate to their personal life. It also speaks

efit from the same core-focused exercises.” If his

to his constant need to innovate. “The thing

“mindset” is correct, Paulus contends—that ev-

that keeps me jazzed after 30 years is inventing

erything comes from a neutral position, driven

on the spot,” he said. Although he has actually

by the core—“then it should be good for any

invented several things over the years, mostly

diagnosis, any surgery,” he said. “You just adjust

sports- or music-related, in his physical therapy

the volume.”

practice it translates into inventing treatment

Bringing aikido, jodo, tai chi and yoga—as

plans and exercises tailored specifically to a pa-

well as Zumba dance—in to Synergy made

tient’s needs and lifestyle.

perfect sense to Paulus. “These are true dy-

Paulus likes working with athletes on injury

passions, and both disciplines he believes unite people and create greater good.

The concept of “synergy” also applies to Paulus and his clinic staff, as well as the instructors who teach the classes. Working alongside him with patients are physical therapy assistant Denise Pedrotti and fitness manager Rhonda Schrock. In addition, there are a half-dozen class instructors. “They all bring to Synergy positive energy, dedication to their craft and a ton of experience,” Paulus said. “The bottom line is there’s this symbiotic relationship—this synergy— where we all work together to help patients.”❉

namic core movement arts,” he said. When he

For more about Synergy, go to synergyrehabfitness.com.

48 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

special advertising

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For information about Laura Mayo and Family Acupuncture & Herbal Medicine visit www.hrfamilyacupuncture.com or call 541-645-0708.

As women, we tend to take care of other people and forget to take care of ourselves.

When life becomes especially demanding and stress increases, our health can be tremendously affected by this stress. There are certain conditions that are more common in women such as: chronic pain, hormonal imbalances, migraines, fatigue, irritable bowel syndrome, mood disorders, and some autoimmune diseases. Research from the last decade has confirmed the safety and effectiveness of acupuncture and herbal medicine in treating these (and other) health problems.

Laura Mayo, at Family Acupuncture and Herbal Medicine in Hood River, specializes in women’s health. Laura believes women need a special and different approach when addressing their ailments. She often sees that a woman’s body may manifest an ailment in a unique way and it is important to understand the physiological, mental, and emotional factors when treating women.

“Acupuncture and herbal medicine treat the patient as a whole rather than a collection of separate parts that function independently. Many people do not realize that Chinese Medicine is a whole medical

system on its own. There are so many conditions that can be treated with herbs and acupuncture. For example, a urinary tract infection can be as effectively treated with herbs as with antibiotics. Prolonged postpartum bleeding can be stopped with herbs without interrupting a woman’s endocrine system and without affecting milk supply.

People just need to call and ask if we can help,” says Laura.

Laura has extensive training in women’s reproductive health, treating infertility, addressing pregnancy and postpartum issues, as well as, hormonal imbalances during menopause. Laura also has experience using acupuncture to treat women who were undergoing chemotherapy for cancer.

“Women who come to my office teach me a lot,” Laura says. “I believe my patients and I are learning from each other constantly.” At the clinic Laura’s patients enjoy attention to detail and extensive, personal one-on-one time. Laura is also accessible to answer questions after her patients leave the office. The clinic offers frequent educational opportunities and hosts doula meetings on the second Tuesday of each month.

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the gorge magazine // fall 2013 49

business profile

Fashion with a Mission Abrazo Style brings hand-crafted chic to consumers and fair wages to the artisans who help create it by robin allen

50 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

It’s 2,974 miles from Hood River to Oaxaca, the

they would live was the difficult part. They had

capital of Mexico’s southwestern state bearing

a “dream list” of things they were looking for in a

the same name. That’s one big hop, skip and

destination, but the more they researched, the

jump for Adele Hammond, founder of Abrazo

further they seemed to get from finding a des-

Style, a company that straddles both worlds

tination that fit.

with its handcrafted clothing and accessories.

It was Hammond’s sister, Cheryl, who sug-

“I have never taken the easy path,” Hammond

gested Mexico. As the couple looked closer at

says. “My passion is what drives me.” Five years

this option, they began to realize that a place

ago Hammond’s passions for art, travel and

they had overlooked in the past was becom-

adventure led her and her husband, John Har-

ing a real contender for their future. They finally

lin, an accomplished mountaineer, editor and

settled on a small village outside of Oaxaca. “We

writer, to pursue a year living abroad. The long-

had no idea our lives would be so fundamen-

time Hood River couple and their daughter, Si-

tally changed,” Hammond says.

ena, wanted to spend a year living someplace

The family’s initial year abroad turned into

where they could be submersed in another cul-

another year, then another. Each year brought

ture, language and people. Determining where

new challenges but also new excuses to stay.

By the family’s fourth year in Oaxaca, Hammond, a long-time artist, found herself at a crossroads in her career. One day, she gave a ride to a woman standing by the side of the road. As Hammond got to know her, she realized that the woman, Marta, was a perfect reflection of the naturally gifted artisans living in poverty-stricken Oaxaca.

Although it’s considered the most culturally diverse and artistically rich state in Mexico, Oaxaca is the second poorest in the country, with an extreme poverty rate of 76 percent. Hammond knew there must be a way to embrace these artisans’ talents while helping them to improve their quality of life—and maybe somewhere in there was the career change and challenge she sought. Thus Abrazo Style was born.

After meeting Marta, Hammond came up with a mission—to pursue what she calls her “principles of compassionate commmerce.”

They include empowering the indigenous artisans of southern Mexico by providing a worldwide marketplace for their talents; establishing a solid foundation through creative enterprise so the artisans can strengthen and expand their creativity, learn business skills and build confidence; and helping the artisans sustain gainful employment and earn fair wages.

With her mission established, Hammond needed a base from which to launch Abrazo Style, and her home outside the city of Oaxaca seemed like a natural fit—especially because Oaxaca and its neighboring state of Chiapas are two of the three regions (Guatemala being the third) that Hammond calls “the perfect storm of textiles.”

“There is breathtaking beauty, complexity and diversity in the embroidery and weaving in these regions,” she says. “And I have to admit I’m easily seduced by beauty, and when it comes to handcrafted beauty—well, I’m helpless.”

Hammond quickly turned this love affair with beauty into relationships she discovered through the reputation of artisans, in the textile-rich markets and on the backroads of rural Mexico. She built these relationships on “a spirit of trust, creativity and empowerment” that would quickly transform into strong collaborations which would “merge their ancient traditions with contemporary styling,” as she puts it.

This type of merger is no easy feat. Communication is a constant challenge for Hammond. “These people are very dependable,” she says, “but many have no telephones and most do not know how to read or write.” It’s important, for example, to pick up on terms like “es que” which in English means roughly “it is that,” or “I was only,” or “it was just.” In Spanish culture, “es que” is the mother of all excuses, according to Hammond. If an artisan begins a sentence with “es que,” Hammond says, she knows bad news is coming. “You’d better make a different plan because whatever it is you’re expecting, ain’t going to happen,” she says. “Perseverance, vigilance and a great sense of humor is key.”

the gorge magazine // fall 2013 51

business profile One place she doesn’t have to worry about

and social responsibility, and its products meet

Relationships with the artisans are not the

communication is when it comes to the work of

the standards and principles to be credited as

only ones Hammond and her business manag-

the artisans. Hammond works with more than a

fair-trade, the company is not officially fair-trade

er, Celina Cruz, must maintain. Shipping prod-

hundred individual artisans now, and she says

certified. “I don’t believe that fair-trade certifica-

ucts from Latin America can be challenging

they all create from their hearts with the same

tion for small businesses is a model that works

and when Abrazo Style started exporting small

passion she has. Because of that, the craftsman-

for us,” says Hammond, adding that the certifi-

shipments monthly, the company frequently

ship is personal, unique and reflective of their

cation is geared more toward big businesses

became a target for drug smuggling searches,

own stories.

that deal with huge quantities, factories, and a

which led to delays. Developing trusted rela-

large number of artisans.

tionships with shipping brokers and customs

The “Marta Dreamy V-neck Blouse” is a reflection of Marta’s story. Because Abrazo Style has

One advantage of not adhering to rigorous

has been vital. In addition, leaving control

been able to compensate her for her talent,

fair-trade certification standards is that the arti-

samples in Mexico and waiting to clean and tag

Marta has saved enough money and gained

sans have the freedom to work in their own en-

products until they reach the U.S. has helped

enough confidence to leave her abusive hus-

vironments, in their homes, on their own sched-

lead to more efficient product delivery.

band and begin anew with her children on her

ules. They have been able to create their own

As Abrazo Style grows, the shipping process

own. This is one of many examples of how the

organizations, cooperatives, and family groups

will soon change to coordinate with the fashion

fair-trade standards Abrazo Style lives by have

in which there is a designated group leader. This

industry’s strict schedule. Hammond will have

achieved their goal in improving the quality of

dynamic allows a more personal and open dia-

to meet tighter delivery dates and fill bigger

life and “building a pathway out of poverty” for

log with Hammond. Because of this fair treat-

orders. One big adjustment she's had to make

people in Oaxaca and Chiapas.

ment, and the fair pay, the artisans remain loyal

for the company's growth has been using sew-

and trustworthy, according to Hammond.

ers in the United States to create machine-sewn

Although Abrazo Style is based on integrity

52 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

garments that can be made in at least four different U.S. sizes and offered in a wider variety of colors. Hammond is also sourcing fabrics in Oregon that she was unable to find in Mexico, such as cotton knit.

The fabric was needed for Abrazo Style’s upcoming winter line which will feature a sweater cape, scarves and other goodies she’s keeping under wraps for now. Despite the growth, Hammond is confident that her artisans’ craftsmanship will not be compromised.

After living full-time in Mexico for five years, Hammond and her family are now based in Hood River again, which has made it easier to deal with these U.S.-based issues. In addition, she’s brought Hood River resident Wendy Bullock on board to help her manage the U.S. side of the business. Being based in the Gorge again also makes it easier for Hammond to get to the many trade shows and festivals she attends on both coasts, as well as check in with local retailers that carry Abrazo Style—including Hood River’s Enchanted Alpaca, Waucoma Bookstore and Knot Another Hat. For all the growth and excitement surrounding Abrazo Style, Hammond remains humble and always eager to get back to Oaxaca and the people who inspired her company. “For better or for worse,” she says, “ we love living interesting lives.” ❉

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the gorge magazine // fall 2013 53

marketpl ace: ho od river heights good news gardening

WAAAM museum

Our nursery carries a fine selection of: annuals, perennials, shrubs, trees, roses, herbs, pots, tools, soil, and seeds…everything to inspire the new or experienced gardener. Our Garden Café features a daily menu with organic, fresh sustainablygrown food from the garden: soups, salads, and sandwiches as well as coffee, tea, espresso, and fresh-baked desserts.

Visit the Western Antique Aeroplane & Automobile Museum (WAAAM) and see one of the largest collections of still flying antique airplanes, and still driving antique vehicles in the country…there is something for everyone to enjoy. See living transportation history at its best, learn about and be intrigued by over 300 cars, planes, motorcycles, military vehicles, and more. Open daily from 9am-5pm, located on the Hood River Airport.

1086 Tucker Road goodnewsgardening.com

1600 Air Museum Road • waaamuseum.org

morgan paint co.

rosauers

We offer a complete line of Benjamin Moore® products for virtually every project you have…from surface preparation products, to a wide array of coatings in sheens and formulas for every requirement. In addition, we have the knowledge and experience to handle any of your window covering needs. We currently carry Graber and Hunter Douglas brand window coverings.

At Rosauers Supermarket you will find: a floral, deli, bakery, and meat department as well as Huckleberry's Natural Foods section. We offer you one-stop shopping for a broad array of natural and organic products that are viable and wonderful alternatives to the conventional supermarket world. We bake everything from scratch using only the finest, fresh ingredients… let us help you create the perfect wedding or special event cake!

1402 12th Street • morganpaintco.com

1867 12th Street • rosauers.com

apple green Choose from a carefully selected array of Garden inspired gifts and accessories for your home and garden. Conveniently located in the heart of Hood River's Heights neighborhood.

1106 12th Street • applegreenshop.com

synergy rehab + fitness We treat patients from a biomechanical and functionally-based perspective, utilizing real-life movement patterns to derive effective therapy solutions for the individual. Patient education is at the core of each regimen as this fosters greater engagement during sessions and home compliance with enjoyable routines.

1120 Pine Street • synergyrehabfitness.com

Hood river sewing and vacuum

54 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

Your party center

We are a full-service sewing and vacuum store offering a full range of high quality sewing machines, vacuums, on-site machine service and repair, a full line of accessories, and sewing classes for all ages.

You can shop with confidence since we allow you to try the equipment before you decide to purchase anything.

We are your special event headquarters!

When you are planning a wedding, shower, office party or business reception, renting is the smart, fast and convenient way to get the equipment, supplies and trimmings you need. We maintain the largest stock of party equipment and supplies in the Columbia Gorge for people, organizations and hospitality businesses.

1108 12th Street • hoodriversewandvac.com

1113 Tucker Road • yourpartycenter.com

marketpl ace: d owntown ho od river hood river hotel

doppio

Built in 1911, this Pacific Northwest landmark hotel combines historical ambiance with modern conveniences. Walking distance to boutiques, micro breweries, winetasting, restaurants, galleries, and theaters.

Our 41 renovated guest rooms and suites are beautifully appointed in classic European style, some with river views. Visit us in November for our special $100.00 per night any room, any day (suites or standard), includes breakfast voucher.

Our focus at Doppio is the rich coffee culture in the Northwest and providing fresh, local, delicious foods from the bounty of the Columbia River Gorge. Come enjoy our outdoor seating & dog-friendly environment. Open daily at 7am.

310 Oak Street • doppiohoodriver.com

102 Oak Street • hoodriverhotel.com

5th element salon

plenty

Voted best in the Gorge, we are a progressive downtown Hood River salon that puts value in education, creativity, and communication. We are committed to customer service and technical excellence that shows in our work, it's our passion! Our menu includes hair design (cutting, foil and handpainted coloring, special occasion styles, extensions), facial waxing, and tanning.

We are happily aligned with Bumble and Bumble products and education.

All of our products are chosen with great care by passionate people and while we are first and foremost a place to come for top notch style and beauty, we work everyday to try to bridge the difficult gap between fashion and ethical/sustainable production. It’s not simple, but we love what we do. As you, our customer has told us, our unique and beautiful items keep you wanting more.

16 Oak Street • fifthelementsalon.com

zella shoes and treasures This boutique tends towards modern, ecofriendly fashion. A stylish collection of shoes and boots, plus a nice mix of clothing and accessories all tucked into this historic building. There is also a nice selection of clothes by Portland’s Jet Clothing as well as shoes by CYDWOQ, Born and Tom’s.

304 Oak Street • zellashoes.com

310 Oak Street • plentyhoodriver.com

Melika We live in one of the most beautiful, exciting, and awe-inspiring places in the world…the mountains, rivers, deserts, and beaches offer daily inspiration to those who live and play here. Our mission is to share the inspiration of the Pacific Northwest lifestyle with women everywhere.

Melika performance activewear and swimwear is made in Oregon to fit your life, your style, and your sport.

316 Oak Street • melika.com

ETC (Every Thread Counts)

gorge dog

Our store is a quilters dream…you will find sewings supplies, fabric, thread, patterns, kits, and sewing machines. We also offer quilting and sewing classes for beginners to advanced, see our web site for more information. And we also showcase handmade quilts for sale by local artists.

With our love for animals and longtime relationship with retail, we set out to offer great canine products with excellent service and a fun store environment. We invite you to dig through our vast collection of animal accessories, bedding, treats, and more…you may just find something for yourself too. And, of course, friendly dogs are always welcome!

514 State Street • everythreadcounts.net

412 Oak Street • gorgedog.com

the gorge magazine // fall 2013 55

home + garden

Renewable Home

Furnishings get a new lease on life at The Dwelling Station by eileen garvin

Visitors to Mosier will have noticed a change to

The sign over the door welcomes visitors to

the town’s main street over the past 18 months.

appreciate “Home Furnishings Resale. Gently

The long-vacant gas station with its boarded-

Loved—Gently Priced.”

up windows and weedy driveway is no longer

Inside, owner Christina LaFever, who opened

just a disappointing stop for fuel seekers. The

her doors in May of 2012, offers a tour of the

old garage has come to life as The Dwelling Sta-

shop’s consignment merchandise, which rep-

tion, a high-quality home furnishings consign-

resents a variety of styles—from mid-century

ment store that draws shoppers from Pendle-

modern and Danish, recycled, up-cycled and

ton to Portland and Yakima to Yachats.

reclaimed to primitive, Mexican and 19th cen-

garage bay one finds tastefully arranged col-

Christina LaFever transformed an old gas station in Mosier into a showroom for her high-quality home furnishings consignment store.

On a late summer day, the sun glances off

tury French farmhouse. The common denomi-

lections of furnishings, which LaFever calls

a cheerful green Adirondack love seat and a

nator is quality. “To be in the main room, it has

vignettes, “scenes that each make you feel dif-

length of rustic picket fence marking the en-

to be in good condition and it has to be in de-

ferent.” On this day, one area reflects an urban

trance to the store. Pots of bright yellow cone

mand,” LaFever says.

modern look with a suede love seat, leather

flowers stir in the ever-present Gorge breeze.

56 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

In the repurposed interior of the former

armchair and black-and-white wool rug. Across

Sustainability is a core value in the business, too— finding new homes for beautiful, well-crafted objects, keeping money in the local economy and employing Gorge artists (a handful of whom create pieces for the shop out of local, salvaged materials). the room, a teak table, Chinese step tansu and a Japanese handpainted screen create an Asian tableau. A gathering of vintage antique bedroom furniture braces against the back wall and next to that rests a large French country style table surrounded by a collection of antique chairs. In the showroom office, a gleaming and elegant Biedermeier sofa dominates the view. Diversity is a constant in the ever-changing inventory, which is “as eclectic as the people who live in the Gorge,” LaFever says.

LaFever herself is a Gorge transplant. Born and raised on the East Coast, she spent 25 years in Portland and the Bay Area and moved to Mosier five years ago. Turning off of I-84, she was enchanted by the feel of the town. “I knew as soon as I turned the corner I was home,” she says. She got the vision for The Dwelling Station almost immediately. “I knew I wanted to have a home furnishings consignment store, and I hadn’t been here a week.”

LaFever intended the store to be a resource for Gorge residents, who have few places to shop and fewer places to consign valuable

the gorge magazine // fall 2013 57

home + garden Sustainability is a core value in the business, too—finding new homes for beautiful, wellcrafted objects, keeping money in the local economy and employing Gorge artists (a handful of whom create pieces for the shop out of local, salvaged materials). LaFever transformed the old garage into a showroom with materials from the Gorge Rebuild-it Center and The ReBuilding Center in Portland. She also operates completely off the grid in the most oldfashioned sense: there’s no power. (In the wintertime that means kerosene lanterns, candles and hot cider on the camp stove.)

No matter the season, the look of The Dwelling Station constantly changes as inventory flows in and out the door. “It’s like building sand castles. Then a wave of people comes in and knocks them down,” she says. Seeing is believing; a windsurfer from Colorado, who has stopped in to buy a parking pass for the local launch, asks if LaFever has any eight-foot dining room tables. A neighbor pokes his head in the door to tell her he has a beautiful old wooden double bed he’d like to sell. “Can you wait, or are you in a hurry?” she asks, pointing to several

Check out the “Find Cool Stuff” section on the website and you’ll also see photos of happy customers posing with recently purchased treasures. Pay a visit, and you are likely to find something you can’t go home without.

antique bedroom sets in the back of the store.

“Sometimes it’s all about timing,” she says.

The Dwelling Station is open Friday through Sunday. LaFever spends the rest of the week evaluating potential inventory and meticu-

goods they are ready to pass on. But as soon

panded beyond its intention,” LaFever says.

lously updating the store’s Facebook and web

as the doors opened, LaFever saw goods and

The store is a personal expansion for her as

pages with photos and descriptions of newly

shoppers arriving from much farther away. “The

well. Following a long career in public speak-

arrived pieces. “Like” the Facebook page, and

next thing I knew, people were driving their

ing and corporate training, LaFever was drawn

you’ll get a first look at recent arrivals. Check

trucks out here to consign with us,” she says. A

toward the design world. “I’ve always wanted

out the “Find Cool Stuff” section on the website

pair of doctors from Yakima showed up with a

to do something related to creating beautiful

and you’ll also see photos of happy customers

21-foot U-Haul full of furniture from their world

spaces, but didn’t want to be a traditional interi-

posing with recently purchased treasures. Pay

travels. “Everything sold in 48 hours except for

or designer,” she says. She studied interior align-

a visit, and you are likely to find something you

one piece,” she says. A vacationing couple, lured

ment and feng shui and spent six years restor-

can’t go home without. “The things we put in

off the highway in hopes of finding gas, picked

ing Craftsman and Victorian homes in Portland.

our homes reflect who we are and how we live,”

out an armoire, bench, vintage baby cradle and

Her training had more to do with connecting

LaFever says. “They can’t be separated.”❉

some antique leather luggage. They paid up,

with people and how they live than just pick-

continued on their fishing trip, and picked up

ing out materials that went well together. “It’s a

their goods on the way home. “It has really ex-

much more soulful approach.”

The Dwelling Station is located at 1202 First Street in Mosier. For more, go to thedwellingstation.com.

58 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

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the gorge magazine // fall 2013 59

60 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

It’s an old lament among gray-haired anglers or surfers, or many other adventuring sorts, that there are no more secrets left to keep. All of the world’s rivers and waves and mistveiled trails have been discovered and revealed. Nobody’s got a hand-drawn map scribbled on a bar napkin, or a page torn from a yellow legal pad, that shows the twisted route down Devil’s Grade to where the fish are all as long as your leg or the waves, unridden, as shapely as a model’s lips.

the gorge magazine // fall 2013 61

62 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

“Fly-fishing, need I add, offers the deepest challenges—the longest silences—of all forms of sports angling.”

W

orse, nearly every unveiled secret spot, claim the old guys, is now charted, catalogued, cammed and cropped for ready consumption, that much needed content for a host of babbling bloggers, a tab on the website header, a link to 1,183 social network intimates worldwide. Just type in…wherever. Sad. And yet, like just about everything old-timers griped about when we were growing up, and like most everything you and I contend’s gone wrong with the world today, this notion that hidden or hard-to-find sporting sites, once fodder for the adventuring few, have all been discovered and disclosed demands a closer look.

Take my arm. Let me lead you to a secret spot, a patch of the Deschutes River no bigger than a poet’s studio, where you can hook brazenly acrobatic rainbow trout, some of them strong enough to empty your fly reel, in a manner not entirely unlike we might share on an outing astream in the fabled waters of Montana, Chile, Patagonia or the South Island of New Zealand.

Of course, I’m not saying you will hook these potent trout. We are, after all, fishing—that timeless enterprise that opens a window into the mysterious and sublime, a view that invites passionate anglers to gaze upon and consider a galaxy of unseen and uncontrollable forces and firmament, a sport made emphatic to its most ardent practitioners, says the writer Tom McGuane, because of the “long silences—the unproductive periods.”

the gorge magazine // fall 2013 63

Fly-fishing, need I add, offers the deepest challenges—the longest silences—of all forms of sports angling.

Oddly, this secret spot we’re approaching lies in plain sight. The basalt walls of the great Deschutes canyon surround us as though we approach the infield inside a colossal baseball stadium. A campsite, occupied as usual, stands but half-a-cast’s distance from the water we intend to fish. The tent, stretched and buffeted like a sail by gusty wind, marks the edge of a public campground set along one of the river’s reaches most heavily visited by both anglers and rafters alike.

A secret? Hold on now; we’re going to step into the river, wade out a bit. Feel that cold? And look how clearly we can see the bottom, the absence of silt or mud on the cobble-like rocks beneath our boots.

And how about that sun on our backs. I have to say, the Deschutes is a classic trout stream—a big Western trout stream. It’s got all the vital ingredients. Look at those swarms of caddisflies bouncing above the sage, a cloud of trout food aswirl in the fitful breeze.

Okay: Now look even more closely. See where the water gets slick right below that chattering riffle, that current trembling over the rocks? There’s a deep spot, a depression, where trout can hover in subtle micro-eddies behind the rocks, waiting for food to arrive without expending an ounce of energy. To come to the fly, all the fish need to do is flex their pectoral fins, rising in the current as though gliders riding upward on tilted ailerons.

Secrets? None of this is new. It’s like reading a map, an open book, your lover’s eyes. The whole world knows about the Deschutes, about trout, about steelhead, about fly-fishing. The river’s secrets have nothing to do with being hidden. All you need is the capacity—or experience—to know what you’re looking at.

And looking for.

64 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

the gorge magazine // fall 2013 65

I know this spot might not look or feel any different from the rest—but, believe me, there are trout right there.

When you live here in the Gorge, but an hour or two away from one of the great fly-fishing destinations in the world, it’s easy to take the Deschutes for granted. From its small meandering headwaters above Sunriver to the brawling basalt steelhead runs of the lower canyon, the Deschutes feels as familiar to many of us as a family member or old friend.

It’s right there, you think. I’ve been there plenty of times.

Maybe you’ve even caught lots of fish on the Deschutes—those spirited redsides or resident rainbow trout, or the river’s elusive steelhead, those magnificent migrating trout returning from the sea, as sleek and powerful as a Motown scream.

Whether you have or you haven’t visited the Deschutes lately, and whether or not you’ve recently practiced or tested or refined your fly-fishing skills against the river’s most worthy prey, your goal right now should be to schedule your next visit to these blessed waters.

For the old, old adage is this: You never enter the same river twice.

When my second son was a middle-schooler, and he moved in with me from Portland because his mother could no longer take care of herself, much less him, he and I fished the Deschutes at least once every week for the entire summer. We’d leave for the river mid-day, some while after I’d finished writing, adding a few groceries along the way to the camping and fishing gear we left at all times in the back of my old Dodge van. July and August, the heat can be atrocious in the Deschutes canyon, a palpable weight that presses 66 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

the gorge magazine // fall 2013 67

down on you until you finally step into the river. But we had a campsite at South Junction we especially liked, one we counted on finding empty if we arrived early on a Tuesday afternoon, that point in the week favored by fly-fishers with few responsibilities, little in the way of gainful employment, and family commitments as slender as the tip of a five-weight fly rod.

Every week. There was a deep spot that summer in the broad bend directly above the famous South Junction island, a run that attracts anglers as though marked with a giant arrow and neon lights that read “FISH HERE!” As the sun settled toward the rim of the canyon, Patrick and I would finally climb into our waders and waddle through the heat down to the shade of cottonwoods lining

the channel running along the island. At the upstream end of the shadows, we’d sit and watch the slick dark water sliding through the bend, waiting for the first telltale rises, the concentric rings, expanding on the surface, where trout have risen to feed.

Patrick could wait longer than I could. A handful of rises and I stepped into the river and started up along the sheer bank of bramble and blackberries, a tricky wade over mossy rocks while pushing upstream against the current. There was also this one particular pocket I always hoped to pick right at the start, an obscure little pail of holding water where a big trout often fed beneath overhanging branches, a refuge hidden from view and just out of the current, where a long cast that landed just right could fool that good fish into eating a little fly.

I need to digress. When you fool a fish that’s in this type of a spot, a trout that feels utterly safe, that gets a careful look at anything on the water and then rises without haste or effort to sip the fly down through a gentle swirl left by its own deliberate and decisive take— when that all happens, and you see it as clearly as that and feel the sudden startled wild lunging against the bend of the rod accompanied by the wail of your twirling reel, you understand, once more, what the sport is all about and why men and women have been ruining their lives in the pursuit of it for a very long time.

Once the caddisflies arrived in earnest—some hatching from pupal shucks while rising from the bottom of the river, others bouncing on the surface, trying to penetrate the water and carry their eggs down into the rocks—once that began to happen, Patrick would join me. It was never easy sport. The evening caddis

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hatch on the Deschutes can frustrate even the most skilled or experienced fly angler, with trout rising everywhere on the river except where your own fly drifts merrily down the stream. Frustrated often enough, however, you eventually figure out a thing or two—and when either Patrick or I hooked one of those trout feeding in the slick heavy current, we’d have to scramble back toward the bank and wade clumsily downstream, the reel protesting loudly, losing line all the while.

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Okay. You can let go of my arm now. The fish are right in front of us. I know this spot might not look or feel any different from the rest—but, believe me, there are trout right there.

And just what if there weren’t?

Cast a glance around us.

Smell that juniper and sage.

Listen to the breeze, the squeal of that osprey, the river rushing along the grassy bank.

Look at those mergansers, that thunderhead boiling up over the lip of the canyon wall.

Get it? There’s your secret: When’s the last time you stood in a prettier spot than this?

Scott Sadil of Hood River is the author of four books and countless magazine articles and essays—most having to do with flyfishing. He teaches English at Hood River Valley High School.

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the gorge magazine // fall 2013 69

Fly-fish year-round with the help of a guide by Bill Weiler

I

f you’re new to fly-fishing, consider hiring a guide. At Hood River’s popular and comprehensive Gorge Fly Shop, I was directed to the go-to Deschutes River guide Tom Larimer. Larimer has been around the globe guiding anglers from Alaska to the Bahamas, but he calls Hood River home and has been guiding on the Deschutes and other Columbia River tributaries for the past 13 years. He’s also one of the most revered Spey casting instructors in the country. “What makes the Deschutes River unique and special is that it combines a blue ribbon resident trout stream with an outstanding run of summer season steelhead,” he said. “So, you can almost fish year-round, from the end of March through the end of November.”

Larimer considers the Deschutes a moody river. “At times it can offer the best fly-fishing on the planet,” he said. “Other times, not so good. Yet mostly it lives up to its billing.” Presentation makes the whole difference, he explained. “To be effective,

70 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

you don’t need to cast far. Short controlled drifts are vital.” Larimer said the Deschutes is a difficult river for beginners. “If you do well on the Deschutes, you can go anywhere and fish successfully,” he said. “This river is the proving grounds.”

Like the Deschutes, other local Columbia Gorge tributaries have also grown in fly-fishing popularity. The Klickitat River holds about a quarter of the fish one can find in the Deschutes, but Larimer insists the fish are bigger. He suggests that the Klickitat is a great river on which to learn how to catch steelhead. “If you’re looking for resident trout, don’t go to the Klickitat as it is a salmon and steelhead stronghold,” he said. Here, too, the season is long, opening June 15 and closing at the end of November. Larimer offers an interesting tip: While many people won’t go fishing when the Klickitat is running ‘milky’ with glacial till, he says if you can “see your shoe laces in knee-deep water, the fishing will be good.” In other words, a little opaque-

ness shouldn’t be a barrier to good day’s fishing on the Klickitat.

As for the Hood River, it changed forever after massive flooding in 2006 when lots of Spey water habitat was lost, but it is still okay for single hand casting. Larimer calls the Hood River “tremendous” for winter steelhead, running from December to the end of April. The winter steelhead season bridges the gap between trout and summer steelhead seasons on the other rivers, truly making the Gorge a year-round flyfishing mecca.

For more on fly-fishing in the Gorge, go to gorgeflyshop.com or larimeroutfitters.com.

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the gorge magazine // fall 2013 71

bounty

All the Trimmings The Tofurky Company rises with all things meatless by ruth berkowitz // photos by jen jones

Chef Greg Rekas slowly takes the Tofurky Roast

requirements for the highest Leadership in En-

out of the oven. It doesn’t really look like a tur-

ergy and Environmental Design rating from the

key, but with the gravy, stuffing and cranberry

U.S. Green Building Council.

sauce, it smells like Thanksgiving. This is the first

The sparkling countertops where we sample

time Rekas has used the new oven in the swank

a variety of Tofurky products (the mainstay of

kitchen at Turtle Island Foods’ brand new $10

Turtle Island Foods and so popular that the

million production facility on the Hood River

company is now known, unofficially, as The

waterfront. With 400 solar panels and highly

Tofurky Company) are made of low-carbon ce-

efficient energy and water systems, the state-

ment and recycled glass. The cabinets are built

of-the-art building is very green. In fact it is

of recycled Douglas fir. It’s taken three years for

the second industrial plant in the country—

the 33,000-square-foot building to come to

and only the sixth in the world—to be LEED

fruition, and Seth Tibbott, founder and CEO of

platinum-certified, meeting the sustainability

the company, is ecstatic. He’s particularly keen

72 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

“It was love at first bite,” Tibbott says, describing his first taste of tempeh at a hippie commune he was visiting. He started making tempeh at home and then in 1980 when he lost his job as a naturalist, he took his life savings of $2,500 and began making batches of tempeh at the Hope Co-op Cafe in Forest Grove, Ore. about the bocce ball court outside his office,

catarian or vegan to enjoy any of the 35 dif-

on the 1,400-square-foot eco-roof. The plant-

ferent Tofurky food items. As I bite into the

filled space is designed to help reduce storm-

Tofurky Roast, the texture is similar to turkey,

water runoff and add to the building’s insula-

maybe a little tougher, but I plan to serve it

tion, but is also meant to be a relaxing green

for Thanksgiving. That’s exactly what Chef

space for employees and visitors to enjoy.

Rekas wants to hear. “I want to make vegan

The

environmentally-friendly

building

housing The Tofurky Company goes hand-

food that even meat-eaters will say, ‘That’s really good. I could eat that myself.’”

in-hand with Tibbott’s business, which is

When Rekas, a long-time hotel and fine

making all-natural refrigerated and frozen

dining chef, accepted the job as R&D chef

meat alternatives. He uses only vegan, GMO-

for The Tofurky Company four years ago and

free and organic ingredients, even if it means

came to Hood River sight unseen, he wasn’t

higher prices and tougher challenges for the

sure he had the ability to invent food. “It’s a

R&D department. Tibbott even sources sus-

very different job than being a traditional

tainably harvested palm oil from a company

chef,” he explains, adding that he needs to

in Brazil that, unlike many others, does not

be precise like a baker and able to make the

cut down rainforests to grow its plants.

same food hundreds of thousands of times.

You don’t have to be a vegetarian, pes-

Rekas has certainly proved himself, winning

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the gorge magazine // fall 2013 73

bounty awards for a number of products, including

road?” he asks. “To get to the other side,” I offer.

peh at the Hope Co-op Cafe in Forest Grove,

the company’s Pepperoni Pizza at a vegetarian

No, he tells me. “To prove he wasn’t chicken!”

Ore. His life was simple: fermenting tempeh

expo in Anaheim, Calif.

A refined hippie with Harry Potter glasses

and making deliveries in a beat-up Datsun he’d

Next, I sample the Tofurky Chick’N Pot Pie

and a white beard, Tibbott was no chicken

bought for $350, whose missing driver’s side

with its chunks of faux meat. It’s moist and fla-

when he started his company 33 years ago.

door he’d replaced, jury-rig style, with one he

vorful and I know I could fool my carnivore son

Francis Moore Lappe’s book, Diet for a Small

got at a junk yard. (“I usually parked around

into thinking it’s real chicken. Sometimes it’s

Planet, convinced him to become a vegetar-

the corner from the stores to conceal my em-

easy for Rekas to invent a meat substitute—like

ian because “the idea of taking ten pounds

barrassment of driving this funky car,” Tibbott

the bologna, which took only three months

of grain to create one pound of meat doesn’t

confesses.) After a few years, in search of clean

from testing to putting the product on the

make sense,” he says. But the math works with

water Tibbott moved production to the Gorge

shelf. But he’s been struggling for years trying

soybeans—particularly when making tempeh,

where he rented the Old Husum Schoolhouse

to get the right texture and flavor for his ham.

a fermented food that originated in Indonesia.

for $167 a month and lived in a tree house he

“I just don’t have the smoky flavor right,” Rekas

Half a pound of soybeans, says Tibbott, makes

built nearby. Eventually, the demand for tem-

says, thoughtfully. “But we’re close.”

one pound of tempeh.

peh outgrew the town’s water supply.

He’s done well with the Artisan Chick’n and

“It was love at first bite,” Tibbott says, describ-

In 1992, the company crossed the Columbia

Apple Sausage, one of my favorites. While en-

ing his first taste of tempeh at a hippie com-

River to set up shop in a portion of the former

joying the sausage stir fried with bok choy,

mune he was visiting. He started making tem-

Diamond Fruit cannery in downtown Hood

carrots, and onions, Tibbott, who has joined

peh at home and then in 1980 when he lost

River. The company continued to focus on tem-

us for our tasting, shares one of his many To-

his job as a naturalist, he took his life savings

peh and, although it was growing modestly,

furky jokes. “Why did the Tofurky run across the

of $2,500 and began making batches of tem-

still struggled financially until 1995.

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74 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

Celilo Restaurant and Bar

Good food is at the heart of any celebration.

That was when Tibbott and a friend, Hans Wrobel, found a solution to the vegetarian

Europe. “I was even the answer to a Jeopardy! question,” he says proudly.

Open Daily Lunch 11:30-3, Dinner from 5 Happy Hour from 5-6

dilemma of what to eat at Grandma’s house

Since then, the company has continued to

on Thanksgiving. He and other vegetarians

expand. It still makes several tempeh prod-

wanted to be part of the celebration and not

ucts, but its growth has come from its line of

just the ones who piled sweet potatoes and

Tofurky products—which has gone from the

squash on their plates. Tibbott invented a to-

original Tofurky Roast to dozens of items, in-

Catering

fu-type roast made by straining tofu through

cluding meatless deli slices and vegan pizzas.

Weddings • Private parties • On/Offsite

a colander and mashing it together with oil

Annual sales now total $25 million and the

and soy sauce. They added eight tempeh

company has 93 full-time employees.

“drummettes,” called it Tofurky, and sold some

Tibbott’s uncompromising ethics in his

of them for the hefty price of $30 to a few

food production undoubtedly help build

stores in Portland. The Tofurkys were slow to

trust and confidence in consumers, and the

sell at first, but once word got out and the

company’s new building is yet another ex-

media caught on—Tibbott and his holiday

ample of Tibbott’s commitment to doing

Tofurkys were featured on The Tonight Show

the right thing. He anticipates producing To-

with Jay Leno and The Oprah Winfrey Show—

furky products here for a long time to come.

sales increased and soon the business took

This year, the company will make well over

off. Comedians had fun with it, too, which

300,000 Tofurky Roasts alone, bringing the to-

was fine with Tibbott. It all helped Tofurky

tal to more than 3 million of them sold since

become a household name, with demand

1995. Comedians can joke all they want, but

growing in the United States, Canada and

that’s a lot of Tofurkys crossing the road.❉

Serving Pacific Northwest cuisine with an emphasis on locally grown products, extensive wine menu and full bar

541-386-5710 16 Oak Street, Hood River OR www.celilorestaurant.com

For more about The Tofurky Company, go to tofurky.com

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our gorge partake

A resource for the best places to eat and drink in the Gorge: restaurants, cafés, breweries and wineries

Gwyneth McMackin, age two

When I was a little girl, I looked forward to this pie all year round. Every Christmas my Grandpa makes this apple pie recipe, referred to as “Grandpa's Apple Pie” by all of his grandkids. When I was in my teens, I called my Grandpa and asked him if he would teach me how to make his apple pie. So I spent a day making pies with him.

Now I bake this recipe every Thanksgiving and Christmas, and whenever I’m craving something tart, sweet, spicy, and nostalgic.

My own daughter calls them “Great Grandpa Apple Pies” and baking them with her means so much to me.

76 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

Recipes + Photos

by Kacie McMackin

For more recipes, online cooking demos and a food guide for the Gorge visit gorgeinthegorge.com

Great Grandpa's Apple Pie by Kacie McMackin Ingredients for pie crust • 1 ⅓ Cup cake flour • 1 Cup all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling surface • 1 Stick very cold butter, cut into 1” slices • 1 Tsp fine salt • Ice water

Ingredients for pie filling • 3 ½ Lbs Granny Smith Apples, once peeled and cored you should have about 2 lbs. I use locally grown organic apples from The Fruit Company.

• 1-1 ⅓ Cup sugar, depending on tartness of apples • ¼ Cup lemon juice, freshly squeezed • 1 Tsp ground nutmeg • 1-2 Tsps ground cinnamon, depending on how much spice you prefer • 1 Tbsp butter • 2 Tbsp all-purpose flour • 1 Tbsp milk

directions • First, peel and core the apples, then set them aside in a large bowl of water.

• To make the crust, place the cake flour, a.p. flour, and salt in a food processor.

Pulse to combine. Add the butter, pulse to combine. With the food processor running, drizzle in ice water. Add a little water at a time until the dough just forms a ball. Transfer dough to a Ziploc bag and refrigerate.

• Using a 2mm or 4mm blade slice all of the apples. Discard the water, return the apples to the bowl, toss with lemon juice.

• Preheat oven to 450º F. Sprinkle 1 tsp

of sugar into the bottom of your pie dish. Remove your dough from the fridge. Separate ⅓ of the dough and put it back in the bag. Working with ⅔ of the dough, roll into a ball. On a well floured surface, roll out the dough until it will fit your pie pan, or it reaches your desired thickness. I prefer mine thin.

Transfer the bottom crust to your pie dish. Use a fork to poke a few holes in the bottom pie crust.

• Start assembling your pie filling by evenly distributing the following in layers: ⅔ cup sugar, ⅓ of the nutmeg and cinnamon, sift 1 tbsp flour to cover the cinnamon, ½ of the sliced apples, packed tightly, ⅓ cup sugar, ⅓ of the nutmeg and cinnamon, sift 1 tbsp flour to cover the cinnamon, the rest of the apples, packed tightly, the rest of the nutmeg and cinnamon, dot with 1 tbsp butter.

• Form the remaining ⅓ of your pie dough into a ball. On a floured surface, roll out the top crust.

• Using your fingertip, dab milk around the outside rim of the bottom pie crust and transfer to cover the apples. Press to seal the edges, trim the excess crust, and use a fork or crimp to finish the edges.

• Cut vents in the top crust, creating whatever kind of design you like.

• Place the pie on a baking sheet, bake in the center of the oven at 450ºF for 15 mins, reduce heat to 350ºF for another 25-35mins, until the apples have no resistance when a skewer is inserted through one of the air vents.

• Transfer the pie to a wire rack, cool for 1 hour before serving it with vanilla ice

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andrew's pizza & bakery

(541) 386-1448 • andrewspizza.com 107 Oak Street • Downtown Hood River 310 SW 2nd Street • Downtown Stevenson Since 1991 Andrew's Pizza has been serving New York-style, hand-tossed pizza. Topping selections from basic to gourmet.

Feel like a movie? Step through the Hood River restaurant and enter the Skylight Theatre…sit back and enjoy a firstrun movie while sipping on a pint of beer or a glass of wine. dine-in, take-out or delivery.

backwoods brewing company

aniche cellars

APPLE VALLEY BBQ

(360) 624-6531 • anichecellars.com 71 Little Buck Creek Road • Underwood

(541) 352-3554 • applevalleybbq.com 4956 Baseline Drive • Downtown Parkdale

We are a small family owned and operated winery located in the heart of the Columbia Gorge. We make wine with an eye to European tradition and a particularly Washington sense of terroir and style. Our wines are almost entirely varietal blends which creates an eclectic mix of characteristics and complexity. The fruit we use comes from Washington’s plethora of renowned AVAs, including our very own Columbia Gorge AVA.

• Our meats are smoked using local cherry wood • Dry rub and BBQ sauces are all made in-house • Pulled pork, chicken, ribs, burgers, salads, vegetarian items • Nightly dinner specials • Local draft beer, wine, hard cider • All desserts fresh-made by Apple Valley Country Store • Outdoor seating available • Ask about catering Open: Wed-Sun at 11am to 8pm. Closed: Mon & Tues.

(509) 427-3412 • Open Thur-Sun, 3-9pm 1162B Wind River Road • Carson

(541) 298-7388 • casaelmirador.com 1424 West 2nd Street • The Dalles

casa el mirador

celilo restaurant & bar

We, the Waters family, decided to open a new brewery in Carson, Washington. Our brewery is inspired by the finest craft breweries of the Columbia River Gorge and all around the Pacific Northwest. We are locally owned and our beer is locally brewed in the “Backwoods”. Enjoy delicious pizza, fresh salads and tasty appetizers in our family-friendly pub.

Quality Mexican food prepared with the freshest and finest ingredients. Warm, friendly service and a lively atmosphere.

Indulge in generous portions of flavorful sizzling fajitas,fish tacos, savory enchilada dishes and daily specials. Happy Hour margaritas, drink specials and 1/2 off appetizers from 4-7pm, Mon-Fri. Full service bar, take-out menu, gift certificates and catering services. Open for lunch and dinner 7 days a week.

Celilo began with a desire to honor the bounty of this region and a commitment to a healthy and sustainable future. Our ever-changing menu reflects the seasonal highlights of the region’s growers and foragers. We offer the most innovative in fresh, local cuisine as well as an award-winning wine list, full bar, small plate menu, and happy hour daily from 5-6pm. experience the freshest foods here, today!

grace su’s china gorge

(541) 386-5331 • chinagorge.com 2680 Old Columbia River Drive • Hood River (Located of I-84 and the base of Hwy 35) While visiting the Gorge…take a trip to China.

Great Szechuan-Hunan taste.

No airfare. Free Parking. Very happy family. great plates for more than 30 years.

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clock tower ales

(541) 386-5710 • celilorestaurant.com 16 Oak Street • Downtown Hood River

dog river coffee

(541) 705-3590 • clocktowerales.com 311 Union Street • Downtown The Dalles

(541) 386-4502 • dogrivercoffee.net 411 Oak Street • Downtown Hood River

We are located in the second Wasco Co. Courthouse built in 1883 and home to the last public hanging in 1905 (wish we had a photo of that). Join us in Historic Downtown The Dalles for fine pub grub, live entertainment and 30 plus craft beers on tap as well as cider and a local wine selection. Spacious outdoor seating, banquet and private party rooms available. open: tues-sun at 11am to close.

One of America's Best Coffeehouses Full service espresso bar featuring Stumptown coffee Breakfast burritos, pastries and more caffeinating your adventures since 2004 open: Mon-fri, 6am-6pm & Sat-Sun, 7am-6pm

everybodysbrewing.com White Salmon, WA

DIVOTS clubhOuSe ReSTAuRANT

double mountain brewery & taproom (541) 387-0042 • doublemountainbrewery.com 8 Fourth Street • Downtown Hood River

(509) 637-2774 • everybodysbrewing.com 151 Jewett Boulevard • Downtown White Salmon

A scenic choice with excellent food and personal service located in the heart of the Hood River Valley just minutes from downtown. Unwind with breathtaking views of Mt Hood and Mt Adams from our covered, wind protected patio. Relax with a beverage from our full service bar or enjoy some fabulous northwest cuisine at a reasonable price.

Open Daily for lunch & Dinner. happy hour 3-6pm.

A local favorite, serving up an ever-changing variety of ales and lagers that are brewed onsite. The highly-regarded brews are complemented by a menu of sandwiches, salads and delicious thin-crust New York-style pizza that has earned rave reviews. Outdoor seating available.

See for yourself why Everybody’s Brewing is a local favorite!

We brew 12 different styles of beer plus seasonal selections onsite. The menu is filled with affordable food choices made with high-quality local ingredients. The atmosphere is warm and family-friendly. Enjoy the stunning Mt. Hood view from the outdoor deck, listen to free live music on Friday nights.

Open Tues-Sun: 11:30am to closing

(541) 308-0304 • indiancreekgolf.com 3605 Brookside Drive • Hood River

open 7 days a week at 11:30am

EVERYBODY’S BREWING

ket

Idlewild Mar Est. 2012

idlewild market

feast market & delicatessen

FULL SAIL TASTING ROOM & PUB (541) 386-2247 • fullsailbrewing.com 506 Columbia Street • Downtown Hood River

(541) 436-0040 • idlewildmarket.com 101 4th Street • Downtown Hood River

• Natural meats, artisan cheeses, charcuterie • Local organic produce • Fresh sustainable seafood • Fresh salads, deli platters, entrees, sandwiches • Boxed lunches • Gluten-free and vegetarian options • Eco-friendly household products • Specialty items • Local and NW wine and beer • Serving beer on tap

If there is one thing a brewer loves more than great beer– it’s great food and great beer! Our northwest-inspired menu complements our award-winning brews and features seasonal, local ingredients. Swing by for a pint, grab a bite, tour the brewery or just soak up the view. Open daily at 11am serving lunch and dinner. Guided brewery tours are offered daily at 1, 2, 3 and 4pm and are free of charge.

We are conveniently located in the heart of downtown Hood River. Well-stocked with a wide variety of food items, general merchandise, carefully selected local and NW wines, microbrews, and locally crafted art and gifts. We strive to provide an outstanding micro-shopping experience.

(509) 637-6886 • feastmkt.com 320 E. Jewett Boulevard • Downtown White Salmon

mcmenamins edgefield

mUGS COFFEE

mon-thur & Sun 9am-9pm • Fri & Sat, 9am-10pm

north shore café

(503) 669-8610 • mcmenamins.com 2126 SW Halsey Street • Troutdale (off Exit 16)

(509) 281-3100 • Text order (206) 486-6080 • mugsco.com 120 West Steuben Street • Downtown Bingen

(509) 493-1340 • Find us on Facebook 166 East Jewett Boulevard • Downtown White Salmon

This historic 1911 estate was originally built as the county poor farm. Today, Edgefield is a 74-acre destination resort featuring the Black Rabbit Restaurant, which uses seasonal ingredients from Edgefield’s own gardens, and the Power Station Pub which serves causal pub fare. ales, wines, and spirits are handcrafted onsite.

We pride ourselves on being your friendly neighborhood café…enjoy delicious, locally roasted, fair trade, organic coffee, and fresh pastries. For lunch try one of our savory panini’s or wraps and a fresh organic green salad paired with a glass of local wine or a Northwest micro brew.

Dine inside or on our private patio. Catering available.

Come in to fill your mug and enjoy a friendly smile!

North Shore Café, formerly known as 10 Speed North, offers: • Fresh, quick, healthy breakfasts and snacks served all day • Locally roasted coffee from 10-Speed Coffee Roasters • Fresh juice and real fruit smoothies • Fresh fruit mimosas • Wine, beer, and hard cider • Local art and live music • Beautiful views of Mount Hood • Indoor/Outdoor seating open daily 6:30am-4pm • open later for events

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ovino market & delicatessen (541) 436-0505 • ovinomarket.com 1209 13th Street • Hood River Heights

PFriem Family brewers

(541) 321-0490 • pfriembeer.com 707 Portway Avenue, Suite 101 • Hood River Waterfront

pietro’s pizza & Gallery of Games

• A variety of cheeses and charcutery, freshly cut to order • Balsamic vinegar, olive oil, local bread, and fresh pasta • Tapas, cheese, and meat platters for catered events • Wine and Hard Apple Cider made in house • European-style sandwiches to go or enjoy them at our sandwich bar served with wine, beer or cider open: tues-Fri, 10am-6pm; sat, 11am-5pm

Pfriem artisanal beers are symphonies of flavor and balance, influenced by the great brewers of Belgium, but unmistakably true to our homegrown roots in the Pacific Northwest. Although they are served humbly, each glass is overflowing with pride and a relentless aspiration to brew the best beer in the world. We’ll let you decide.

Open: wed, Thur, sun 11:30-10pm; Fri-sat 11:30-11pm

We offer fun games for all ages and three TVs so Mom and Dad can catch the game. Our extensive menu consists of a variety of pizzas, sandwiches, pasta, and a 24 item salad bar. It also includes broasted chicken, chicken wings, and seasoned fries. Place your to go orders at pietrospizza.com.

Delivery available in Hood River and White Salmon.

Free delivery to local hotels.

pint shack

pizzicato

(541) 386-1606 • pietrospizza.com 107 2nd Street • Downtown Hood River

rIVEr DAZE cAfE

(541) 387-7600 • pintshack.com 105 4th Street • Downtown Hood River

(541) 387-2055 • pizzicatopizza.com 2910 Cascade Avenue • Hood River

(541) 308-0246 • riverdazecafe.com 202 Cascade Street, Suite D • Downtown Hood River

Welcome to the sunny side, where Hood River and Baja collide! Head on in for a fun vibe and enjoy the great selection of Northwestern craft beers, ciders and wine. 12 taps rotating often and a great selection of bottles. Enjoy it here or take ‘em home. We also offer great pub food!

Live Music on Wed and Fri nights

• Featuring Local Beer and Wine • Locally Sourced Produce • Delivery and Carry-Out • Selection of Gluten-Free Menu Items Available

We feature fresh baked, hand-crafted food in our familyfriendly café. Best known for our great sandwiches, we offer a variety of other homemade goodies including desserts, softpretzels, and our mouth watering sourdough English muffin breakfast sandwiches. We focus on high-quality, organic and local ingredients. Gourmet sodas, beer, wine, and locally roasted coffee. Mon-Fri: 7:30-3pm, Sat-Sun: 8:30-3pm.

riverside & cebu lounge

open Daily 11am-9pm

SolStice wood fire café

stonehedge gardens

(541) 386-4410 • riversidehoodriver.com Exit 64 off I-84 • Waterfront Hood River

(509) 493-4006 • solsticewoodfirecafe.com 415 West Steuben (Highway 14) • Bingen, WA

(541) 386-3940 • stonehedgeweddings.com 3405 West Cascade Avenue • Hood River

Diners seek out Riverside for some of the best food in the Gorge—and Cebu for great bar food, drinks and live entertainment. With amazing panoramic river views, Riverside offers fresh menu choices that change seasonally for breakfast, lunch & dinner—plus an award-winning wine list.

Check our website for current menus and our Chef’s Blog. cebu lounge: happiest hours in town, Mon-Fri 4-6 pm

A community focused café and mobile pizza kitchen serving inventive pizzas with perfectly blistered crusts, bubbly mac'n'cheese, roast chicken and more. We love local food, art, music, farmers, foragers, teachers, children and you! Great pizza, great beer and great wine does make the world a little better. coMiNG to Hood riVer iN deceMBer!

“The best outdoor dining in the Gorge.” –NW Best Places We are a favorite among locals and visitors. Our cuisine is a classic, European blend that utilizes fresh, local ingredients and pairs well with our select wines. Our gardens are the perfect setting for weddings. Full-service catering available.

“Romantic setting and the best meal I had in town.”

–The Los Angeles Times

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(541) 386-7423 • sushiokalani@gorge.net 109 First Street • Downtown Hood River

sushi okalani

TAD’S CHICKEN ‘N DUMPLINS

(503) 666-5337 • tadschicdump.com 1325 East Historic Columbia River Hwy • Troutdale

the glass onion restaurant

Come find us in the basement of the Yasui Building, the local’s favorite spot for fresh fish, Pan-Asian Cuisine, and a rockin’ atmosphere! Lots of rotating specials, creative rolls, and a large sake selection means you’re always trying something new! Private rooms are available for groups up to 20 people. Take-out menu available online. Open for dinner nightly at 5:00, closing hours change seasonally.

Nestled on the banks of the Sandy River in Troutdale, OR. We are located halfway between Portland and Multnomah Falls. Serving exquisite American cuisine since the 1930s.

The menu includes: Pacific NW seafood specialties as well as traditional steak, chicken, and pasta dishes; a full bar, and our famous chicken ‘n dumplins.

Open: Mon-Fri, 5pm-10pm; Sat & Sun 4pm-10pm

Join us in our cozy dining room for delicious local food made entirely from scratch by Chef, Matt McGowan. His philosophy: use fresh, quality ingredients and let the dish speak for itself, keep it simple and clean. Enjoy local wines and craft beer on tap, free WiFi, featured artist every month, special events and wine dinners. Ask about catering and private parties. open: Wed-sat, 11am-9pm

the gorge white house

the restaurant at cooper spur

THE WAUCOMA CLUB BAr & griLL

Taste local wine and microbrews, and try our own new pear cider! Take home fresh local fruit, flowers and more from our farm stand. Enjoy our spectacular mountain views, gardens and fields. Wine, fruit, flowers, art, and more in a historic home on a century old working farm! Listed on the National Registry of Historic Places. Pet friendly. open 10-6pm April-october

Our rustic mountain restaurant offers fresh creative food, a seasonally changing menu, local beers and wines, and wellcrafted drinks. A perfect place to dine after a day of exploring the Mt. Hood National Forest. Come celebrate with a FREE entrée on your birthday. Open daily for dinner. Breakfast and lunch served Fri, Sat and Sun. View our menus online!

For the best in gastro-pub dining, hand-made cocktails, sports and live music, The Waucoma Club has it all. Located in the historic Hotel Waucoma, the Club is open Monday through Friday from 4pm to late and Saturday and Sundays from noon to late. Children are welcome until 8pm.

Happy Hour Daily from 4pm to 6pm.

(541) 386-2828 • thegorgewhitehouse.com 2265 Highway 35 • Hood River

(541) 352-6037 • cooperspur.com 10755 Coopur Spur Road • Mt. Hood/Parkdale

(509) 773-4928 • theglassonionrestaurant.com 604 South Columbus Avenue • Goldendale

(541) 387-2583 • waucomaclub.com 207 Cascade Avenue • Downtown Hood River

VOLCANIC BOTTLE SHOPPE

(541) 436-1226 • volcanicbottleshoppe.com 1410 12th Street • Hood River Heights We have an amazing selection of: • Craft and Import Beer (12 rotating taps, over 200 bottles) • Local and Import Wine (50 labels) • Cider and Mead • Snack Food Enjoy it all here–outside in our private beer garden or inside in our comfortable living room atmosphere–or carry it out and enjoy it anywhere! Open daily.

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our gorge a thousand words

Photo by David Lloyd // dlimageworks.com

82 the gorge magazine // fall 2013

A healthy part of your community High-quality care, close to home Providence Hood River Memorial Hospital cares for your health with primary and specialty care providers who take the time to listen to your needs. And, if you should need care not available in our community, we’ll help you access specialty services and clinical trials through Providence’s nationally recognized programs – most of which are located just an hour away in Portland. At Providence, it’s not just health care, it’s how we care.

We can connect you with local providers who specialize in: • • • • • •

Allergies Arthritis Anticoagulation Cardiology and cardiac rehab Diagnostic imaging Ear, nose and throat care

• • • • • •

General surgery Hearing loss Home health care and hospice Infusion therapy Lab services Obstetrics and gynecology

For a complete list of services, call 541-387-6125 or visit www.providence.org/hoodriver.

For a referral to one of our specialty clinics, please contact your primary care provider.

• Occupational medicine • Orthopedics and sports medicine • Palliative care • Primary care • Travel medicine