Spring 2021

The Good Life Spring 2021

Letter from the Editor Hello!

It's 10 p.m. on the night before this issue has to be submitted to the printer, and I'm a third of the way through a 1.5 liter bottle of Sutter Home trying to finish this letter to you that I've been meaning to write for the past four days. And if that's not an accurate representation of the vibes this entire semester, then I really don't know what is.

But, despite the absolute mess the past few months have been, I hope this issue gives you some perspective and brightens your day a little bit. It focuses a lot on local artists, businesses, and organizations and shows how diverse and interesting the city of Syracuse is if you take the time to look a little closer. We have our community on campus, but there is so much more going on beyond Marshall Street that we can learn about and get involved in during the four years we have here.

So, open a $12 bottle of Pino with me and enjoy your reading!

Best,

Morgaine McIlhargey Editor-in-Chief

Profile BobbiWDesigns 󶀳

By Gracie Carrigan

Lil Moej

By Kendra Broddus

4

Earth Got Locally Sourced Milk?

󶀵

Lifestyle Covid Companions

By Gabriella Nagy

By Bella Klug

Shop Small, Impact Big

Hope & Housing 󶀱󶀰

By Riley Fouts

󶀷

By Grayce Nichols

Everybody Deserves a Place 󶀱󶀱

By Grayce Nichols

1 | The Good Life Spring 2021

󶀹

The Good Life Morgaine McIlhargey Editor-in-Chief Katie Hageman Managing Editor

Ashley Clemens Editor-at-Large

Editorial Fashion Editor Julia Fesser Art Editor Abby Rosenstein Staff Kendra Broddus Jenna Byers Gracie Carrigan Riley Fouts Bella Klug Gabriella Nagy Grayce Nichols Walker Simmons

Natalie Muñoz Creative Director

Photography Massimo Marchese Sophie Walter Social Media Isaac Chapin Spencer Seligson Contributors Cassie Cavallaro Juliana Ni Lay Kristina Starowitz Alexandra Taitano

Harriet Brown Adviser The writing contained within The Good Life expresses the opinions of the individual writers. The opinions expressed herein are not those of the editorial board, Syracuse University, the Office of Student Activities, the Student Association, and the Student Body. The Good Life reserves the right to edit or refuse submissions at the discretion of its editors. The Good Life magazine is published twice during the Syracuse University academic year.

All contents are copyright by their respective creators. No content may be reproduced without the written consent of The Good Life editorial board.

Fashion Life Without Socials

Looking Forward 󶀱󶀹 󶀱󶀳

By Riley Fouts

Lookbook

Art

󶀱󶀵

What lies on the road ahead?

Feature New Businesses on the Block 󶀲󶀵

By Katie Hageman & Walker Simmons

The Curtain Remains Closed 󶀲󶀷

By Gracie Carrigan

The Face of the Press

󶀲󶀹

By Julia Fesser

Spring 2021 The Good Life | 2

Profile

BobbiWDesigns How a hobby became a business

By Gracie Carrigan

G

rowing up on the Lower East Side of Manhattan, creativity and a passion for art were embedded in the home of Syracuse senior Bobbi Whitney. Whether it be drawing pictures at a young age for the family fridge or watching her mother decorate for her middle school events, the Whitney household always fostered a love for design and artistic vision. Whitney's fondness for creativity didn't stop at childhood, rather it flourished and pushed her to start her own jewelry line under the name BobbiWDesigns.

BobbiWDesigns began in December 2020 when Whitney decided to take up jewelry making as a way to pass the time during

COVID-19 lockdowns over winter break.

After seeing a TikTok trend of people buying resin, a liquid organic material that resembles plastic when dried, Whitney's artistic senses kicked in, and she decided to try her hand at the craft. Whitney said she never planned on starting a business, but once she began to create earrings, she couldn't stop.

"One day I laid them all out and I realized I had made 40 earrings," Whitney says. "My parents were like, 'You should sell them.' So I started selling them, and I was honestly kind of surprised that people wanted them, so I kept going."

Whitney's collection consists of earrings and hair clips. When she started selling them back in the first week of January, like any new business owner, she had doubts about the success of her designs. Some of her designs were out of her comfort zone, and for a while she wondered if others would want to buy them. But, since starting back in July, she's had 43 sales on Etsy and a five-star rating.

Whitney quickly gained the support of family and friends. Her friend, Syracuse junior Maria Savani, has her own custom sweatshirt business (@ms_customs_ on Instagram), and Whitney explained how Savani's support and advice helped her when she was getting started.

"When I first started selling things, she was one of the first people who bought earrings.

We had a lot of conversations about business stuff," Whitney says. "It has been a cool opportunity to talk to friends who I am close to who I know have also done this."

Photo by Sophie Walter

3 | The Good Life Spring 2021

Savani started her business last summer during the original COVID-19 lockdowns as a way to connect with people during tough times. She echoed Whitney's explanation of

how the small business had been her outlet for rekindling old friendships and feeling a sense of togetherness with friends and family, even when social interactions weren't always possible.

"It was a nice way to reach out to people and continue to feel support and to stay connected with people when you are so far away and during a time when you feel disconnected from everyone on campus," Savani says.

Along with her friends, Whitney's mother, Mary Howard-Whitney, is one of Whitney's biggest supporters and creative icons.

Howard-Whitney always has an artistic project taking place, and she explained that as Whitney was growing up, she began to take part in them herself. "[She was] around 10 when she really started creating," Howard-Whitney says.

"I remember her tearing up a couple of T-shirts, trying to get a style going. That's when it all started."

Along with starting her own business and working to keep it up while at school, Whitney is a member of the Delta Gamma Fraternity, a member of the Renée Crown University Honors Program, and was one of 12 seniors to be named a 2021 Syracuse Senior Scholar, the highest honor given to an undergraduate student.

Whitney sees her business as a stress reliever and validating of her artistic ability. Her love for what she does fuels her desire to continue creating in the future.

"I see this as something I can continue to do long term, even if it's something I do on the side," Whitney says. "Hopefully this is a forever thing."

Lil Moej

COVID-󶀱󶀹's effect on a local artist

Photo provided by James Lanier

By Kendra Broddus

S

branding himself with the stage name Lil Moej. The name came to fruition because "MOE" stands for "money over everything," while the "J" is for the first letter of his name.

This scene awaited Syracuse local, James Lanier, for a fleeting moment.

When he was recording at the studio, a video producer stopped in and told Lanier that he would love to make a video for him.

miling, jam-packed crowds dancing under strobe lights and screaming the lyrics to their favorite artists. Sweaty people standing close to one another fearing nothing but the reality of the concert ending.

After rapping for the mainstream rapper, singer, and songwriter Lil Tjay on Instagram, Lanier got his attention. Lanier submitted a song to Lil Tjay's showcase, where he won first place and the opportunity to open for the artist. The concert was scheduled to happen at the Westcott Theater in Syracuse for April 4, 2020.

Opening for an artist as big as Lil Tjay would have jump-started Lanier's career. However, due to COVID-19, virtually all concerts set for 2020 were canceled, including Lanier's.

Nevertheless, he has continued to produce his music on his own.

"I made a play-around song that I didn't really take seriously — but it came out good.

So then on March 31, 2020 I actually went to the real studio and took it seriously ever since," Lanier says.

Throughout the pandemic, Lanier went to a local studio to record songs he wrote himself,

Lanier has seven music videos, with more in the works. Both his favorite song and music video that he wrote is, "If I Could Chop It Up With Choppy."

talks about real-life stuff that happens. I would say he is a mix of Lil Tjay and Polo G. He flows like Lil Tjay, and he talks about real stuff like Polo G, who is a once-in-ageneration talent that has the potential to be discussed with the greats."

The demand for new music increased during the pandemic, so Lanier was able to keep a fanbase. In some ways, COVID-19 helped him. Before the pandemic, fans didn't have time to wonder about when a new song was dropping. But the lockdowns brought the question: Where's the music?

"I made it about my friend that passed away," Lanier says. "There were a lot of emotions involved during the whole song and video. It means a lot to me."

Cecile explains that even during the pandemic, it is easy to support Lanier or any local artist.

He used his time during the pandemic to focus on creating a style that would help him stand out in the competitive industry.

"Download his music, watch it on YouTube, share his music throughout the community with other people," Cecile says.

"My style varies," Lanier says. "I can go from a singing style to a more rap song and can also make rock star music too. My versatility is what really sets me apart from other artists."

America is not in the clear yet, but with vaccinations being administered, music venues are beginning to open up, including the Lakeview Amphitheater, a hotspot for concerts in Syracuse.

One of Lanier's closest friends and biggest supporters, Bobby Cecile, describes his style in a similar manner. "[It's] different," Cecile says. "He actually

News about Lanier's opening for Lil Tjay should come soon, and he cannot wait until he gets to perform in front of an audience, even if their smiles are under a mask.

Spring 2021 The Good Life | 4

Earth

Got

Locally Sourced

Milk?

What ecofriendly eating means at SU

By Gabriella Nagy

5 | The Good Life Spring 2021

H

ow often have you heard about college food and dining being environmentally conscious?

Often the talk around dining hall food is characterized by exasperated comments and feelings of dissatisfaction.

Whether you're eating at Graham Dining Center, enjoying the experience of Ernie Davis, or stopping into the newly renovated Schine Student Center, there is something for everyone. But how sustainable is it, really? When it comes to the environment, it is important to inquire about where our food comes from and how sustainable practices are being implemented in terms of recycling and food waste.

While Syracuse University aims to offer a wide variety of dining options, there is a lack of substantial meal choices for students who are vegan, vegetarian, or gluten free.

Improvements to the university's current food scene include the recent addition of

Core Life and Halal Shack to the Schine Student Center. These two choices provide students with healthier and balanced options if they choose to eat on campus. Yet, there is still a long way to go before we can be confident in saying Syracuse dining is fully inclusive and environmentally conscious.

Melissa Cadwell is the sustainability coordinator at Syracuse. Her job is to oversee sustainability management by developing and identifying sustainable goals and processes for the university with the help of employees, staff, and students.

Cadwell says the most sustainable way to farm is "one that works for you and the planet." She gave examples such as permaculture farming, biodynamic farming, peasant farming, organic agriculture, food forests, and conservation agriculture.

The dining centers at Syracuse are trayless, so students can use reusable containers to

Illustration by Natalie Muñoz

transport their food rather than eating in.

The facilities utilize low flow water fixtures and dishwashers, LED lighting, and ensure that there are always adequate vegan and vegetarian options.

Cadwell urges students to also do their part by being more sustainable in the dining centers. For example, by only taking as much food as you need at a time, you help to lessen food waste. In addition, she suggested students try to have a plant-based meal at least once a week.

"Sustainability is not just about the building and the items in that building, it is about the people who use that building and the selected items they take from the food offered," Cadwell said. "It really starts with the customer and their choices when they enter the dining hall."

She spoke about ethically sourced products' environmental effects as well.

"Ethically sourced food lowers our greenhouse gases. There's less travel from farm to store to the consumer," Cadwell says.

She sees buying local as a way to support the economy and neighborhood jobs. Buying items made with recycled materials ensures all our materials are reused.

Farmers markets are another great way to talk with farmers directly about how they are ethically producing their food, Cadwell mentions. Farmers want to take the time for people to understand the ethical ways they grow their food. At a grocery store, she cautions consumers to check the labels on their food. "'Organic,' 'free range,' and 'ethically sourced' can all be greenwashed to make the consumer think they are buying ethically sourced items," Cadwell says.

Greenwashing is when marketers promote a product in such a way that the public is deceptively persuaded into thinking the product is environmentally friendly.

Consumers should beware of such tactics and recognize labels on a product don't always mean much.

She urges students to educate themselves as well as incorporate small changes into our diets to be more sustainable because, generally speaking, widespread change on the individual level must occur in order to make any real difference.

"If each student makes a small change on this campus, then together that change turns into a much larger change overall," Cadwell says.

Jnana Sagara, a freshman at Syracuse University, follows a vegan diet.

"Syracuse has pretty decent options, whereas I know at other schools they don't even have a vegan section, and those students have to have salad every day," Sagara says.

She says that going to places like Core Life, eating breakfast in her dorm, and having food that she knows will make her feel healthy and happy are important to her daily routine. To her, "veganism is a lifestyle," and she values having things that are more locally and ethically sourced, knowing her food's ingredients, and not eating as much processed food.

Outside of SU, college campuses across the country are aiming to source their food more sustainably. According to an article by Food Tank, an environment-focused non-profit organization, 12 colleges are recognized for leading the way in sustainable dining practices. American University in D.C. purchases about 36% of their food from within 250 miles of the school, and they also have a community garden on campus.

Boston University sources 22% of their food from sustainable sources and makes sure that their meat and eggs come from ethical farming practices. Bowdoin College aims to reduce carbon emissions created when food is delivered long distances, so they instead source their food from local vendors and support Maine's local economies.

SU provides students with an array of dining options and makes an effort to feed students sustainably, but it's lacking in its ability to provide fresher foods and a more equal ratio of healthy foods to unhealthy foods.

On the school's website, they note efforts to try and buy local whenever possible, as well as highlight their partnership with the Onondaga County Resource Recovery Agency to compost pre- and post-consumer food waste from SU Food Services' Commissary and all eight dining locations.

Mark Tewksbury, director of residence and concessions at Syracuse, says SU implements sustainability practices in the dining halls through the Food Recovery Network, through which food is collected at the end of the night and, instead of going to the landfill, meals are distributed around the city. SU also tries to buy fruits and vegetables based on seasonality, which reduces greenhouse gas emissions. It receives produce from a seasonal food company called Syracuse Banana.

While Syracuse has made strides in improving campus dining, both in terms of food selection and sustainable efforts, like anything, all parties involved need to put in the effort.

"If as a consumer you want to help be a part of the solution for a sustainable food system, you need to start with yourself," Cadwell says. "The dining centers can give you the tools, but if you don't want to use them, that is on you."

Spring 2021 The Good Life | 6

Shop Small, Impact Big

Syracuse students changing the fashion industry

By Riley Fouts

I

t takes about 2,000 gallons of water to make one pair of jeans, according to the World Economic Forum (WEF). And yet, about 85% of textiles are thrown into landfills every year.

This is the sad truth of "fast fashion," the rapid and inexpensive production of trendy clothing that is tossed into a landfill shortly after its purchase. It's an inescapable cycle that hurts the environment on not only the producers' end but also the consumers' end.

Fashion, in general, requires extreme amounts of natural resources, like water and carbon, states the WEF. Another common clothing input is petroleum oil, a nonrenewable resource, that is used so frequently that the supply is "dwindling," per Eco-Age, a social media platform bringing awareness to sustainability.

Photo provided by Lauren Levin, Vintage Cuse

of clothing waste in the fashion industry.

Mia Clavin, a junior at Syracuse University, founded Mia Clavin Creations, which focuses on "thrift flipping," finding tacky pieces of clothing at thrift stores and making them trendy. Her routine consists of collecting Syracuse T-shirts that she spots in the men's section of local thrift stores and turning them into women's tops and tanks for game days.

Bella Borek, owner of Rewerkd Clothing, alters ugly thrift store finds into trendy crop tops and chic flare pants that look professionally made. However, their work comes at a cost.

7 | The Good Life Spring 2021

Many DIY fashion creators and upcyclers will charge more than the average retailer because their products are better quality and made from more expensive materials.

Owner and creator of Vintage U and Vintage Cuse Lauren Levin scours local and online thrift stores, collecting university apparel and then reselling it on Instagram (for Vintage Cuse) or her website (for Vintage U).

"A lot of people find thrift shopping to be inconvenient and time consuming, which I definitely understand," Levin says. "There's so many options, and it's hard to find exactly what you're looking for. That's why I started Vintage U."

Consumers are more likely to ditch clothing sooner than usual if it's made in record time and from cheap materials — because that typically means poor quality. About "one garbage truck full of clothes is burned or dumped in a landfill every second," reports the WEF. A few of Syracuse University's own students have attempted to mitigate both producers' and consumers' unhealthy patterns through their own small businesses. Whether they're upcycling materials, DIY-ing, or thrifting, they eliminate the need for unsustainable production while also reducing the amount

"I think one aspect that causes people to lean towards fast fashion is the price tag," Borek says. "Hand-making [the pieces] takes me hours. I put a lot of effort into it, so I'm not going to charge, like, $5 for a top."

Another SU student, Morgann Pisano, created Shop Wholehearted, where she creates DIY jewelry and tanks from Nike socks.

"I will admit, a lot of [purchased material] goes to waste when I don't use it," Pisano says. "Instead of going out and buying more and more products, it's better to use whatever I have and kind of makeshift with that, then go out and buy stuff."

Photo provided by Bella Borek, Rewerkd Clothing

By using up readily available materials and

"Shopping second hand is so much more exciting than shopping fast fashion because you have the entire history of fashion to choose from," says Rochelle Dweck, an SU sophomore and the founder of Mercer Girl.

m m oo

By Grayce Nichols

Do you spend your time analyzing the tags on clothing when you shop? Do you background check the sustainability ratings of brands before purchasing from them? Do you know who is sewing the garments on your back and from where the materials are sourced? Essentially, are you a sustainable shopper?

p s y Freed p s y Freed

making fashion pieces by hand (as opposed to in a factory), this eliminates the need to use up nonrenewable resources and reduces the waste going to massive landfills.

The time to start consciously consuming is now. So, where to start? Just a mile away from Syracuse University is a consciously fashionable boutique called Gypsy Freedom.

Photo provided by Rochelle Dweck, Mercer Girl

She paints pre-owned and thrifted apparel like jean jackets, sneakers, and backpacks, giving simple pieces a fun flare.

"You [find] one of a kind of pieces that aren't in stores anymore," Dweck says. "And I think it also forces you to take risks because you might have something that's not really in style anymore, and you have to push yourself to style it."

America's Research Group reveals that about 12 to 15 percent of Americans shop at consignment or resale shops each year.

With sustainability, thrifting, and a greater awareness of small businesses on the rise, there's no telling where that number will be in a few years.

The founder of Gypsy Freedom, Caeresa Richardson, is a Syracuse alumna who opened her boutique in August 2020 with the goal of combining her two passions: engineering and fashion. She wanted to create a place for self-expression and awareness through personal style.

y y GG

"I opened Gypsy Freedom because I personally was transitioning my life to be a more conscious consumer," Richardson says.

"I had a hard time finding fashion brands that align with my values."

Richardson says she realized other individuals were interested in the same goal of becoming stylish, conscious consumers. Perspectives on what it means to be a sustainable consumer and citizen of the earth is ever changing and molding to new realities.

"My definition of sustainability in our shop is ethically produced and considerate of the environment and the people who produce these garments," Richardson says.

Before opening Gypsy Freedom, Richardson, among others, thought that sustainability was solely related to the environment. While a majority of the effects of non-sustainable practices lead to environmental destruction, there is a sustainable world beyond the environmental impacts, and that is how we treat others.

"Since opening the shop, I really began to grow that definition to be more of a respect for all things and beings," Richardson says.

"So really, there's two elements to it. It's the environment and then the people. So it's community-based as well."

Photos provided by Caeresa Richardson

Spring 2021 The Good Life | 8

Lifestyle

Covid Companions Pets bring joy during the pandemic

By Bella Klug

A

t the beginning of the pandemic, many people found themselves feeling out of touch and isolated because of the lockdown and social distancing requirements. This void, though, opened the door for the unconditional love and companionship that animals can provide.

face a difficult time when having to leave home and their pets behind. Grace Sacco, a freshman with three dogs at home, found herself suffering from anxiety at the beginning of the pandemic, given some of her family is at high risk for COVID-19.

In March last year, interest in pet adoption and adoption rates increased significantly, and many pet owners turned towards fostering programs.

Pets have been known to reduce anxiety.

They live in the moment, not worrying about what happened yesterday or what might happen tomorrow, and they help people do the same by appreciating present joys.

Natalie Johns, a pet owner since December 2020, took it upon herself to raise a puppy, and she began her and Biscotti's (Scotti) new life together.

"Whenever my dogs would come sit with me while I was on Zoom, it wasn't a distraction," Sacco says. "It was therapeutic just having them there."

Johns often found herself absorbed in the screen-bound lifestyle we have become accustomed to and prioritized productivity over her physical health and wellbeing.

All of Sacco's dogs are rescued from shelters in their area, and she plans to foster animals in the future.

"Life was a lot less playful, but he took some of my worries away," Johns says, in reference to Scotti.

Caring for a pet can give people a sense of security and someone to share a routine with, especially for people who live alone, according to the Mental Health Foundation.

Aside from feeling isolated, college students

9 | The Good Life Spring 2021

Paul and Page Borger work at the animal shelter Rescue Village in Cleveland, Ohio.

Animals have always played a major role in their lives. They both transferred from private practice to shelter medicine about five years ago. Over the course of their careers, they have seen both the great and the ugly parts of being a veterinarian and the sad and joyful parts of working at a shelter. That being said, nothing prepared them for shelter medicine during a pandemic.

"When the pandemic hit and we realized we were going to have to close the shelter, we were pretty close to full — 70 animals or something like that," Page says. "Within 24 to 48 hours, the shelter staff had placed every single animal into foster care."

Even before the pandemic, fostering was an important part of the shelter's operations because no shelter environment can mimic that of a loving and nurturing home.

"Even if you do everything you can to make life as enjoyable as possible for those animals, it is stressful." Page says. "Animals who are stressed do not do well."

Paul and Page have fostered countless animals from the shelter over the years. Their most recent foster was a cat whose leg Paul had amputated. She came to their house to recover and is now happy in a new home.

"She lives with an elderly woman in an assisted living facility who can't walk, and all the cat wants to do is be on her lap," Paul says. "So the cat just sits on her lap all the time."

Every person deserves to be on the receiving end of the unconditional love that animals offer. For Page, it's hard to put into words what working with animals has meant to her over the years.

"My mom is a widow, and I honestly don't know how my mom would have survived the pandemic without the companionship of her dog," Page says.

Paul and Page have seen a lot of animals surrendered to the shelter since the start of the pandemic because their owner had died, gotten sick, been hospitalized, or lost their job. But, at the same time, many animals have been adopted because more people are home and have the time to welcome new family members.

"Dogs in general were the big winners in the pandemic," Page says.

Many shelters like Rescue Village have foster programs where community members can sign up to become part of their foster network. Some shelters may even have a foster-to-adopt program, where people can have a "trial period" with a pet before formally taking them as their own.

Hopeprint provides resources for immigrants and refugees

Illustrations by Natalie Muñoz & Sophie Walter

Help & Housing

By Grayce Nichols

B

eyond the perimeters of Syracuse University lies a diverse city with a multitude of programs and organizations that help people prosper.

Hopeprint is a standout among them.

The city of Syracuse has a large immigrant population, which makes for a highly entrepreneurial and culturally dense community and economy. In the 1800s, numerous Italian immigrants settled on the Northside, joining German immigrants who had already settled there. Over the years, Italian families moved out of the Northside, causing the demographic of the microneighborhood to change.

Now, Syracuse is one of the largest refugee resettlement communities in the country and has become home to people from Africa and the Middle East. Sarah Hewitt, the community engagement manager at Hopeprint, explains ways in which these communities are being supported.

The primary goal of Hopeprint is to aid refugees and New American families to adapt to the environment through an abundance of programs. Hopeprint works in the Northside neighborhood to support New Americans, refugees, and anyone else living within the 30-block micro-neighborhood between North Salina, Kirkpatrick, Park, and East Division Streets.

"We're really looking to ensure that individuals are comfortable living in the neighborhood that we work in," Hewitt says.

"Our mission as an organization is unifying diverse communities, rich in culture and connectedness, to prosper in place."

Hopeprint offers programs for all individuals, ranging from newborns to seniors. The prepandemic model for the program, aimed at adults and families, was working to provide a crash course on practical knowledge. The program would cover topics like how to obtain a driver's license and how to become a homeowner.

Hopeprint recognizes that personal needs vary frequently. They continue to revise the program to better suit the needs of individuals.

"We've kind of shifted that into what we call a community navigation model, and we're able to do one-on-one goal management over the course of a trimester," says Hewitt. "So, we walk alongside our families in achieving some of their goals."

While many organizations and nonprofits exist to support Syracuse residents, not everyone is aware of where they can pursue these resources. Hopeprint has a process on their website where they receive both agency and community referrals for people seeking support. To spread the word around the micro-neighborhood, Hopeprint has also gone door to door to talk about what they do and how people can get involved.

However, amidst the pandemic, Hopeprint's goal of creating connections and relationships has been temporarily suppressed.

"We're very relational, and a lot of what we do, especially with the women's group and things like that, is getting people around a table and having conversations and eating different foods and all that really beautiful

kind of connection stuff," Hewitt says.

In contrast to all the stress and tragedy that the pandemic has brought to the community, Hopeprint has remained a constant support system for the Northside neighborhoods.

They have been able to achieve this through food pantry services, diaper drop-offs, mask delivery, self care bags for women, and activity kits for the youth.

"We made sure to check in on everyone weekly and just tried to maintain some of that connectivity," Hewitt says. "We also did some virtual programming, and set up videos and things like that for the kids."

Another significant project at Hopeprint is to purchase, renovate, and set up homes in the Northside that can eventually be sold to current tenants of rented houses. In the past, Hopeprint noticed the positive impact their programs had on the community but that families ended up moving out of the neighborhood. In 2019, Hopeprint worked with the non-profit Home HeadQuarters Inc. to help a family become first-time homeowners of the first house built on the Northside of Syracuse in a decade. The new homeowner Isha Mberwa is one of over 300 families who are supported in becoming first-time home buyers and finding a place they can confidently call home.

"There was no substantive change really happening in the neighborhood that our families were able to benefit from," Hewitt says. "The big questions for Hopeprint became: why are people moving out of the neighborhood, what can we do to change this, and how can we persuade them to stay?"

Spring 2021 The Good Life | 10

Everybody

Deserves a Place

By Grayce Nichols

E

very day there is a new standard, look, or fad that society pushes through the media. Whether that be a waist trainer, lip plumper, debloat pills, diet plans, or a "one-size-fits-all fashion" brand, the goal is always to change appearances and to remain unsatisfied.

We are all built differently, and when an individual is impacted by disordered eating, body dysmorphia, and associated oppression, it is often outside of their control. Seeking effective support and treatment becomes an additional burden to overcome, especially when taking socioeconomic factors into consideration.

dissociation between eating disorders and social justice: eating disorders are often perceived as physical or mental illnesses. "[Eating disorders] are a mental illness that can be impacted by systems of oppression and other sorts of environmental phenomenon that happened as a result of systems of oppression," Lowery says.

She explains fat phobia as a by-product of anti-Black racism, which connects diet and culture as a result of shaming and capitalism.

Fat phobia has a racist past and present.

"It's not like something's

According to the National Association of Anorexia Nervosa and Associated Disorders, 9% of the US population is affected by an eating disorder, so there is a growing demand for resources from individuals seeking support for anxiety disorders related to eating. Enter Ophelia's Place, a non-profit organization with the mission to administer healing to those in the Syracuse area who are experiencing disordered eating and struggling with body image.

wrong with you or something needs to be fixed.

It's a result of these systems of oppression that we're all kind of steeping in.

Holly Lowery, chief operating officer at Ophelia's Place, shares their mission of giving back to the community in an all-inclusive manner. Recently, inequalities concerning gender, race, sexuality, economics, and social class have become prominent, receiving deserved attention and sustained, organized action. Lowery explains the common

In an NPR interview with Sabrina String, the discussion of the racial origins of fat phobia date back to the transatlantic slave trade.

String discovered that when the slave trade began, Europeans recognized the curves on African women. European philosophers decided that to be "fat, curvy, or thicker," was no longer desired or ideal.

11 | The Good Life Spring 2021

"

They were seeking out a mechanism to determine who was enslaved and who was free. Body size became a new aspect of racial identity, chosen as a characteristic that determined whether or not people deserved freedom. As a result, a new system of oppression was created.

Capitalism brings a constant need to sell people imperfection, to explain new ways that something is wrong, and to provide the remedy for a price.

"Capitalism can't be chopped up in one sentence, but with regards to diet culture, it comes back to profiting off of people's feelings of inadequacy and keeping them on the hamster wheel of that," Lowery says.

"Like, 'let us sell you this product, let us sell you this program in order for you to quote, 'Fix your body.'"

To address this ecosystem of complex issues, many interconnected layers must be addressed, one of which being the accessibility of support and treatment resources.

"Resources in general are lacking as far as providers who really understand eating disorders," Lowery says. "It gets even narrower with providers who understand eating disorders through this socio-political, socio-cultural lens. And then it gets even narrower to find providers who take a health at every size approach and are really working to address their own weight stigma."

How race, body type, and class affect eating disorder treatment Lowery explains how expensive eating disorder treatment is and how the financial aspect immediately excludes access to many people in need. While the cost of any and all treatment is by no means cheap, the more intensive and in depth the treatment is, the higher the cost.

Inpatient treatment for individuals who require immediate monitoring costs about $2,000 a day, and residential treatment, which entails 24/7 support and access to doctors, therapists, dietitians, and other specialists in a treatment center rehabilitation setting, can cost patients anywhere from $10,000 to $30,000 per month.

Because of this, Ophelia's Place offers free phone consultations and weekly online support groups. In the next year, Ophelia's Place is implementing two new support groups. One will be designated for people of color who struggle with eating disorders and the other for overweight people who struggle with eating disorders, both of which are currently underserved.

"Oftentimes for folks who identify as fat to enter a space with mostly non-fat people could be really triggering and really unsafe," Lowery says.

Ophelia's Place will be creating what Lowery calls a "safe container" for folks with particular marginalized identities.

"It's not like something's wrong with you or

something needs to be fixed. It's a result of these systems of oppression that we're all kind of steeping in," Lowery says. "Especially for folks who have marginalized identities, that's going to feel really big and really apparent. It's not easy, especially if you're already really struggling with something like an eating disorder."

Lowery describes how Ophelia's Place can be the middleman in connecting clients to treatment options and other resources in their area with trusted credibility from both near and far. For example, an individual with anorexia nervosa who reaches out to Ophelia's Place via the hotline but lives in New York City would be referred to a trusted New York City based resource, such as a mental health professional, treatment center, or other eating disorder specialists.

In addition to support and treatment, Ophelia's Place strives to educate the community through their Every Body is Beautiful Project, a four month online program built to give folks a foundational understanding of this work and provide tools to be able to start to disrupt and dismantle systems of oppression in their own community.

Participants of the Every Body is Beautiful Project are able to explore eating disorder prevention and intervention. They educate participants on ways to expand the connection between individuals and treatment and equip them with tools to

dismantle systems of oppression that perpetuate eating disorders and fat phobia.

Lowery emphasizes the goals and progress that Ophelia's Place is making to address both privilege and bias as an organization to create an evolving, "culturally competent program." At Ophelia's Place, a conscious effort is made to bring in a range of experts who have first hand experience.

"Bringing in these different experts can really speak to the nuance and complexity of what it's like to live with those identities in the context of disordered eating and these systems of oppression," Lowery says.

The interactions between body image, society, culture, oppression, and social justice are complex ­­— all set in a backdrop of a pandemic, economic uncertainty, and social unrest. Alone, none of these issues are simple. Each can feel impossible. Together, they can feel overwhelming. But somehow, their commonalities may help us find better solutions when they are discussed as part of a whole, rather than in academic and professional silos.

"How can I kind of divest from some of those systems that might be making me feel this way? These affect everybody. And so it's really important to recognize the role that plays," Lowery says. "It is empowering to be able to say, 'I live in these systems and I have a little bit of agency — or a lot — to decide to step outside of those systems."

Spring 2021 The Good Life | 12

Fashion

Life Without Socials

The psychology of social events

By Jenna Byers

I

t has been over a year since the coronavirus drastically changed our lives. The pandemic has taught us to appreciate the little things and never take for granted hugging a loved one, high-fiving a stranger at a sports game, standing in a mosh pit at a concert, or even just seeing the people you love maskless. The coronavirus has also had a strong impact on our mental health, the consequences of which may persist for years to come.

Katie Kidwell, assistant professor of psychology at Syracuse University. "Formal events ritualize social connection to make time feel special and rich. We elevate certain events like prom to signify the importance of this specific time of life."

Unfortunately, COVID-19 means the cancellation and postponing of many social and formal events.

For high school and college students, social events are essential for our well-being and mental health.

"Although necessary, we are tasked with being creative in coming up with new ways to connect while reducing the risk of spreading COVID-19," Kidwell says.

"Humans are inherently social, and social connection is incredibly important," says

Without these events, people feel lonely and like they have nothing to look forward

13 | The Good Life Spring 2021

to. Lack of social activities such as parties, formals, date nights, and sports games can put subconscious stress on individuals.

"People who didn't previously have social anxiety can start to feel uncomfortable leaving the home after months of staying in," Kidwell says.

For college students, the pandemic means not having sorority formals, initiations, graduation, and many other social events; for high school seniors, it means not having their prom and graduation.

Nicki Syme, a current senior at North Andover High School in Massachusetts, spoke about the lack of social events and how

Photography by Sophie Walter Photo by Sophie Walter

not having these activities to bond with her peers has affected her mental health. Syme says her high school is planning on having some form of a socially-distanced prom, but it won't be the same.

"Even if they did have a prom, we all just feel really detached from everything, and it doesn't really seem important, like there's nothing to look forward to in it," Syme says.

Despite feeling isolated from normal life, humans, especially young adults who are used to constant social interaction, have found different ways to cope. One way Syme has improved her mental health is by spending time with her loved ones and keeping her COVID-19 bubble small and safe.

"[I found] little positive things over the summer last year, like my friends and I spending every day together," Syme says.

Kidwell mentioned it is common to feel Zoom fatigue, but there are ways to combat feeling lonely and drained.

"Meeting up outside for a socially distanced hike, bike ride, or walk in a park can help maintain social connections," Kidwell says.

"If you are feeling lonely and disconnected, reach out to a friend for a conversation."

It has become common for people to get dressed up, even if it's just to stay at home.

Occasionally switching out those sweats for a pair of jeans or a even a dress can be

extremely beneficial for one's mental health.

Kidwell quoted Dr. Emily Nagoski, who studies health behavior, on how the act of taking the time to get ready can be a helpful stress reliever.

"There is something about taking the time to get ready that may help people make the transition into a socially-oriented mindset," Kidwell says.

While the coronavirus has taken something or someone away from everyone, it has also forced us to stop and appreciate what we have. Yes, COVID-19 has caused us all pain, but at the end of the day, we will cherish the little things even more once all of this is behind us.

Spring 2021 The Good Life | 14

Models: Bailey Davis & Morgan Calcara Photos by Sophie Walter

Spring 2021 The Good Life | 16

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Photos by Massimo Marchese Models: Mo Wood & Talia Centeno

Art Poetry and art by Kristina Starowitz

I would tell her these things then while remaining in the same state of surrender

19 | The Good Life Spring 2021

There was an eerie feeling about the place after dusk a kind of ravenous wolf energy that might

devour us waiting in the shadows for the last train to leave to start picking off the flock

Spring 2021 The Good Life | 20

By Cassie Cavallaro

By Alexandra Taitano

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By Cassie Cavallaro

Spring 2021 The Good Life | 22

By Juliana Ni Lay

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By Abby Rosenstein

Spring 2021 The Good Life | 24

Feature

By Katie Hageman and Walker Simmons

T

wo phrases have been all over the media lately: "small businesses are struggling" and "support small businesses." Besides the obvious economic trouble due to the pandemic, well-known chains opening right next door may be a bigger worry, especially on college campuses.

Chain restaurants, whether it be Subway, Chick-fil-A, or Five Guys, tend to be the safest options for students. In an environment of tired and broke young adults, cheap and fast is an attractive choice. So how can smaller businesses compete?

Scott Lathrop, a professor in the Martin J. Whitman School of Management, spoke about the competition between big and small businesses, primarily in terms of customer behavior.

He says big businesses have the advantage of being able to buy in bigger quantities, meaning they can negotiate lower prices and pass on price discounts to consumers.

"They do have that big advantage of price,"

25 | The Good Life Spring 2021

Lathrop says. "But what they don't have is service. That's the one thing the local stores can really do much better, providing great customer service."

Big chains appeal to a certain type of consumer and a certain type of experience, but some customers prefer to go to smaller places instead of somewhere larger for a more personal experience. However, as Lathrop says, it ultimately comes down to the level of customer service expected.

"If you want the best price and you know what you want and you don't really need any help from anywhere, advice, or information about the product, you'll go to a big box store and buy it for the lowest price," Lathrop says.

"But say that you don't know much about stereos, for instance, and you needed some advice, you would go to a specialty store, a mom-and-pop store."

A 2016 study by Com-Score, an American media measurement and analytics company, found that 93% of consumers prefer to shop at small, local businesses.

"There's a big difference between what people say and what they actually do," Lathrop says.

"Even though most people have this really good intention in mind to buy local and support local businesses, when it comes down to it, if they're looking for a lower price they will probably go to a bigger place."

Besides price and service, another important factor for college students is convenience.

Many students don't have a car, so they eat wherever is available near their housing.

Ithaca, New York, home to Cornell University and Ithaca College, has a large college town with huge apartment buildings, shops, and restaurants. Everything is conveniently located so students have no need to travel far for a wide selection.

When both chain restaurants and local eateries are available, as is often the case when it comes to college towns, it comes down to personal preference.

Dinkytown, a neighborhood close to the University of Minnesota is known as the

Illustration by Natalie Muñoz

center of student life. From thrift shops to live music to cafes, bars, and various eateries, Dinkytown is everything a college student could ask for.

The area holds a lot of local businesses, as well as big chains. Al's Breakfast and Annie's Parlor are two of the many local names that students rely on.

Dinkytown was also home to a McDonald's, which closed recently after 57 years of students stopping in on late nights. A new location is rumored to be opening in the future, but in its absence, the local businesses are running well.

While the pandemic certainly impacted college campuses, most of the small businesses have made a comeback. On Syracuse's campus for example, local restaurants seem to be flourishing regardless of whatever new competition joins the street.

In this case, the new competition is a major name in the food industry: Five Guys. On April 6th, Five Guys moved

into a corner spot on University Hill off of Marshall Street.

two tea locations being so close to each other could mean for competition.

Before Five Guys, another new addition to Marshall Street was Winnie's Soul Delicious.

It set up shop just last fall. The restaurant owner, Dawn Evette, speaks positively of her restaurant's future success.

"I did talk to the owner of Kung Fu about this, and she agrees we are not worried," Zhou says. "We both just want to make good bubble tea."

"I see a lot of customers, and hopefully we can branch out," Evette says. "But I'm not scared of competition, so I'm not concerned for the future."

Other large businesses have also clashed with Marshall Street locals. Feng Cha Teahouse, a small business, has been on campus for over three years. In March 2021, a chain restaurant, Kung Fu Tea, a near identical establishment, opened.

The owner of Feng Cha crafts all of her drinks from original family recipes from when she lived in China. Ken Zhou, the manager of Feng Cha Tea, hopes these classic recipes will win customers over against the competitor.

Both bubble tea locations discussed what

The owner of Kung Fu Tea, Sue Jiang, agreed with Zhou and mentioned her tea is a little different than Feng Cha's.

"To me, I think their tea is a little light," Jiang says. "Our tea is stronger. We add milk and other stuff to it, but you are still able to taste the tea flavor."

As of now, it seems customers have found a balance between Kung Fu Tea and Feng Cha Teahouse.

While it's unclear what lasting impact Five Guys and Kung Fu Tea will make on the Syracuse campus and surrounding local restaurants, it seems fair to say the local favorites have what it takes to keep students coming back.

Spring 2021 The Good Life | 26

The

Curtain

Remains

Closed

The slow resurrection of the Syracuse arts and entertainment sector

By Gracie Carrigan

O

ne year of the pandemic lockdowns has come and gone, and the businesses in Syracuse hit hardest by restrictions are now finding themselves with reopening regulations. These changes might not be enough to help businesses get back on their feet, especially in the entertainment world.

down during the COVID-19 lockdowns in March 2020. When staple venues were forced to go dark, the reality of the pandemic set in. The director of business development for Syracuse, Eric Ennis, says the city is known as the cultural and entertainment hub of Central New York and with the venues closed, the city lost more than just business.

In early March, New York Gov. Andrew Cuomo announced regulations for the reopening of the arts and entertainment sector of the state, which allowed for entertainment venues to resume business at 33% capacity. These businesses can have 100 attendees indoors and 200 attendees outdoors. These numbers can rise to 150 indoors and 500 outdoors if the venues require proof of negative COVID-19 tests before entry. Syracuse city representatives hope this means a resurgence of business and employment in one of the most important sectors of the city's economy, but some business owners are not so optimistic.

"The closure of performances and just the fact that we haven't been able to have that has really taken away from the city's vibrancy," Ennis says.

The entertainment sector was the first to shut

Ennis points out that the city has worked

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According to a data set released by CNY Arts, an organization that supports arts in Central New York, in a normal year, the arts and entertainment sector brings in $148 million dollars, and creates around 5,900 jobs, which brings $110 million dollars in household income in the region. Shutting down these businesses in the past year has been hard on local households because of the pure economic impact they have.

to inform entertainment venues of their eligibility for federal grant programs, specifically the Paycheck Protection Program and the Save Our Stages Act. The Paycheck Protection Program, included in the CARES Act of 2020, gave grants to businesses to continue to pay their employees, while the Save Our Stages act provided live venues six months of federal financial aid to keep their businesses from going under.

Other philanthropic organizations, such as the Central New York Community Foundation (CNYCF), has given donations and grants to arts and entertainment businesses. CNYCF distributes donations from private donors out to different organizations in need. In the recent year, CNYCF has connected with different arts and entertainment businesses to help them find alternative ways to stay open.

"In the case of the Central New York jazz foundation, we made a grant last summer that was specifically to support moving their jazz programing from in person to online,"

Illustration by Natalie Muñoz

says Peter Dunn, president and CEO of CNYCF.

100 to 150 [person] capped events to sustain that increase in staff."

But some venues can't move their programming online. The Landmark Theatre has been a staple in Syracuse since it opened in 1928, and with up to 85 ticketed shows a year, it is a prime example of a business that truly impacts the city's vibrancy.

In the past year, The Landmark has tried to bring in revenue through merchandise and membership deferment. They've also used a federal grant of $10,000 to make their reopening safer for guests. However, the state regulations don't allow for enough attendance for them to pull up the curtain.

The Landmark shut down a year ago, and since then the theater has cancelled 100% of its programming, according to the executive director Mike Intaglietta. With the lack of revenue, The Landmark Theatre has downsized from 30 full-time equivalent staff to roughly three. Because the Theatre annually brings in up to 145,000 attendees, the current regulations that only allow for a reopening at 33% capacity are not desirable.

"The math is going to be very tough," Intaglietta says. "In order for us to be able to run events consistently, we need to be able to have a larger staff than we do now, and we can't generate enough revenue from small

"For us to be the Landmark that people expect, it really needs to be approaching 100% capacity," Intaglietta says.

Ennis says that the best way to be able to help reopen these businesses is through continuing to flatten the curve. He explains how the city has worked hard to stop the spread through creating awareness about the virus. He's hopeful Syracuse can continue to do so and reopen important sectors like arts and entertainment soon.

"The city worked really closely with the county to make sure that people were aware

of public information and that people were practicing social distancing," Ennis says. "As a community we did flatten the curve."

Intaglietta notes that The Landmark Theatre is hoping to open bookings for private events to bring in revenue. They also have a spot on their website dedicated toward public fundraising efforts where people can help maintain the theater's spot in the city through donations.

Though this round of reopenings may not be the grand reawakening of entertainment venues in Syracuse, Ennis remains hopeful that this is the first step to bringing back the cultural hub of the region and giving people a taste of the traditional Syracuse they have craved for the past year.

"We view this as an opportunity to bring back that vibrancy, bring back the economy, and certainly the economic investments and benefits that come from entertainment venues," Ennis says. "It helps restore a sense of normalcy."

Spring 2021 The Good Life | 28

Diversity and inclusivity in the magazine industry

By Julia Fesser

D

uring the beginning of summer 2020, the prestigious magazine Bon Appétit, a gastronomic publication owned by Condé Nast, was under fire after former and current employees and contributors launched accusations of racial discrimination. Staffers of color exposed that they were not being paid as much as their White colleagues. Adam Rapoport, longtime editor-in-chief, resigned after a photo of him dressed in brownface resurfaced on the internet. The photograph was only a symptom of the systemic racism and inequality that exist in the industry.

Molly Baz, former senior food editor and Test Kitchen host at Bon Appétit, grew frustrated when she learned that people of color in the video section, run by Condé Nast Entertainment (CNE), were being paid less than she and the other White staffers. Her colleagues on the editorial side were pushing for equality, but the momentum from CNE was severely lacking, Baz says.

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Baz first boycotted to help rebuild the brand.

However, contracts and payment practices stayed the same. Baz, along with POC staff members and others, ended up quitting.

Baz hopes that by leaving, in the best case scenario, she opened up a coveted position in the food industry for someone who didn't have the opportunity before.

and systemic racism, and the magazine industry was not exempt from scrutiny when it came to racial discrimination. Last year's events initiated industry-wide conversations about accountability and justice that have long been ignored. The time for media companies to recognize their biases and enact change has come.

"I'm hopeful that now, with new leadership and new voices at the brand, there is an opportunity to change for the better," Baz says. "I was very wary of the company and its ability to change, and it became very clear that so much of the racism at this corporation was so systemic and goes so many years back and just runs through the veins of a large corporation like this."

Media industries have long claimed to stand for "diversity and inclusion" but rarely act on their words, even when their employees urge them to improve. Their management teams have often been run by White leadership, so diverse voices have been ignored. Racism is deeply ingrained in American corporate culture and has been brushed aside. Now, employees and former employees are speaking out and holding their employers accountable. Due to George Floyd's death and the growing support of the BLM movement, predominantly White people began to see the systemic issues underneath the surface.

George Floyd's murder on May 25, 2020, sparked protests and rekindled calls to fight anti-Blackness, specifically through the Black Lives Matter (BLM) movement.

Demonstrators denounced police brutality

Problems related to diversity and equity in the magazine industry are widespread and reach further than just one company.

Hannah Giorgis, a Black staff writer on the culture team at The Atlantic, writes about entertainment and how people relate to the art they consume. Giorgis says that while now there's more attention on uplifting all voices at The Atlantic, there's still more work to be done.

"I don't think that we in US newsrooms are quite fair, and I don't think that really any American newsroom is," Giorgis says. "I think that these are really deeply entrenched issues that we've seen over decades, and in some cases, more than a century. There's a lot to rectify, both at a newsroomspecific level for individual places and also systematically within our industry. A lot of the root concerns that people describe as it relates to the industry are very widespread and systemic."

On March 16, 2021, eight Asian Americans were killed at a spa in Atlanta, Georgia.

According to a report by the Asian American Journalists Association, reporters said their news organizations told them they would be too biased to report on it. The misconception that people of color, women, LQBTQ+ people, and immigrants aren't capable of reporting on their own communities with fairness or objectivity creates a barrier for those journalists.

"The industry doesn't say White people can't report on a story because they would have a bias toward the suspect in the case," Giorgis says. "There are big air quotes around where bias in the industry tends to be assessed in situations like these."

Since the summer of last year, many leaders in the magazine industry have resigned to hand over their jobs to people of color to achieve equality within their company. In these leadership transitions, however, it is important to go deeper into the institutional systems of oppression that exist in the company and create better infrastructure for

new leaders to succeed. It's vital the staff feels their newsroom leader is someone they can trust, whose judgment they can depend on, who they feel enthused to work with, and most importantly, who uplifts all voices.

"I think that if there is a problem in a magazine, the resignation of a staff member in and of itself isn't necessarily going to lead to concrete change if the person who comes into that role isn't given the support to succeed," Giorgis says. "Sometimes what we'll see in this industry and others, for example, is a woman of color coming into a company that is troubled or had some issues in the past and not having the institutional support required to turn that place around, and then they're set up in some ways to fail."

I don't think that we in US newsrooms are quite fair, and I don't think that really any American newsroom is. I think that these are really deeply entrenched issues that we've seen over decades, and in some cases, more than a century.

Long-lasting change is going to require stepping back and investing in the people who take their place. The work is not done once a leader resigns. Moraya Seeger DeGeare is a licensed therapist and anti-racism consultant who works with media executives to discuss and encourage diversity in their companies. She is of mixed background: primarily African American, White, and Japanese. She works to help others recognize microaggressions and acknowledge their own privilege in the workplace.

"I'll have these vulnerable conversations with my clients, and we'll sit in the discomfort. We really tap into the biases we were raised with

and understand our shame and what tools we can use to be anti-racist," Seeger DeGeare says. "We have conversations about the first time they remember witnessing racism and how they processed that and what that told them about a person who looked like that.

It's not therapy, but it's right there."

This kind of diversity training encompasses a top-down approach. Instead of relying on smaller people in the company to create change, it's coming directly from the top. It allows for one-on-one conversations, which are vital for people to understand their biases and know how to take anti-racist action in their own companies.

Illustration by Natalie Muñoz

"The whole BLM movement has been, for what it's worth, really productive for our industry, in terms of waking everyone up, myself included, to the racism that runs through it," Baz says. "This wake-up call was personally upsetting because inherent in one's privilege is a lack of awareness."

"It's important to start actively listening and working to create more diverse spaces and then really giving opportunities to all voices. To be anti-racist, we have to just start with understanding what people's lived experience is and actively listen and absorb those stories," Seeger DeGeare says. "We all have these biases that we're raised with, and it's important that we really understand the shame of why we reject, push away, and categorize people."

There is still a long way to go before the magazine industry is actively anti-racist. The industry has historically been very elitist, and people tend to get hired when they look like the people who already hold the positions they're applying to.

In her book, "Everybody (Else) is Perfect," Gabrielle Korn writes: "When you describe your reader as one person and say exactly what she likes and where she spends her money, it's easier to pitch advertisers. But it's not easy to grow an audience that way — not to mention it's literally the definition of institutionalized racism, homophobia, and fat phobia." In order to progress, industries must diversify and amplify all voices, work to be actively anti-racist, and hold themselves accountable for their own racist practices.

"I think some of the solution is going to require really stepping back regularly and saying, 'Does our coverage represent the sort of breadth of experiences in this country and in the world? What are things that we're missing, and how can we be better about that regularly?" Giorgis says. "This should all be done not just in moments of national reckoning or industry reckoning. This should be done right now."

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