The Glossary Autumn 2017

FA S H I O N | B E A U T Y | H E A LT H | W E L L N E S S

ISSUE TWO AUTU M N 2017 £5 WHERE SOLD

The

A R T S | C U L T U R E | F O O D | D R I N K | T R AV E L | H O M E S

YOU R LO N DO N ST YLE GU I D E

C U LT U R E

Essential events TRENDS

What to wear and how to wear it SHOPPING

The best bags, shoes and coats BEAUTY

Anti-age your hair ART

Expert buying tips INTERIORS

Fashion goes home FOOD

A Mexican revolution

RED ALERT

The autumn edit: embrace the new season Featuring: Jane Birkin on music, Eileen Cooper on art, Anya Hindmarch on fashion, Monica Galetti on food, Rosemary Ferguson on nutrition, Charlotte Olympia’s London COVER_OCT_v3 LA.indd 2

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CONTENTS I

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Arts & Culture 07 AGENDA

Dates for your diary this season

18 JE T’AIME JANE Jane Birkin on love, loss and the restorative power of music

22 HOME IS WHERE THE ART IS How to start an art collection

24 LET’S DANCE Artist Eileen Cooper’s creative partnership with the English National Ballet

Style

30 FASHION NOTES The designers and trends on our radar

33 TREND REPORT Harriet Quick reveals what to wear and how to wear it

38 ONE OF A KIND Anya Hindmarch tells Avril Groom why bespoke will always mean true luxury

42 THE STYLE EDIT The best bags, coats and shoes in store now

50 RED HOT Make a statement in the year’s hottest hue

61 THE WATCH LIST Timepieces to match your mood

63 OVER THE RAINBOW Colour yourself happy with jewels in every shade

Beauty & Wellness 66 BEAUTY NOTES

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Talking points in hair and make-up

69 THE DARK SIDE Beauty products inspired by the witching hour

72 71 THE DREAM TEAM The best beauty therapists, straight to your door

72 FOREVER YOUNG How to age-proof your hair, by London’s leading colourists and stylists

76 A FINE BALANCE Model-turned-nutritionist Rosemary Ferguson reveals why she swapped partying for wellness

Food & Drink 80 TASTING NOTES

Where to eat and what to drink

82 FASHION BITES BACK Our round-up of London’s top in-store dining destinations

84 MEXICAN WAVE Unleash your Latin spirit with the capital’s latest food trend

86 MOTHER SUPERIOR Monica Galetti reflects on life after Le Gavroche at her first restaurant, Mere

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The YOUR LONDON STYLE GUIDE

Travel 92

TRAVEL NOTES Global destinations

94

CAPE TOWN How art has given Cape Town new focus

96

THE GREAT ESCAPE Discover why Kamalaya is Thailand’s top wellness retreat

38

Home & Interiors

76

102 DESIGN NOTES

Inspirations from the world of interiors

105 GREEN WITH ENVY From emerald to deep teal, homeware has a new opulence

112

106 HAUTE HOUSE Fashion + interiors = a design match made in heaven

108 THE INSIDER Interior designer to the stars Martin Kemp on his journey from a small Welsh town to the townhouses of Mayfair

Last Word

112 MY GLOSSARY Charlotte Olympia Dellal’s little black book

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THE GLOSSARY

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HE TURN OF A SEASON IS ALWAYS A SIGNIFIER OF CHANGE, and perhaps none more so than the arrival of autumn. Paradoxically, as the landscape withers before our eyes, there is an undeniable feeling of renewal that seems more suited to spring. Perhaps it’s that back-to-school vibe that never seems to leave us, no matter how many years it’s been since we last saw a classroom. It calls for a reassessment of priorities, a sharpening of focus, a renewed purpose. So it’s not surprising to see so many of our interviewees in a reflective mood this issue.

We catch up with Jane Birkin as she releases her first album in nine years, singing the songs of Serge Gainsbourg set to classical music – all those stirring violins and plaintive piano lending extra poignancy to this fabled love story (p18). We visit the home studio of Eileen Cooper as she prepares to step down as Keeper of the Royal Academy and become a full-time artist at the age of 64 (p24). And chef Monica Galetti takes stock of her first few months postLa Gavroche at the helm of her own restaurant (p86).

Even if sweeping life changes are not on your agenda, you can still embrace a new direction with this season’s essential colour: red. The shade of passion and ambition, it’s little wonder that it marched off the catwalks and into our hearts. See how to wear it for maximum impact in our cover shoot (p50) and our trend report (p33).

Elsewhere, we bring you our accessories edit (p42), tips on how to age-proof your hair (p72) and, of course, we have the lowdown on London’s finest experiences from the people who know it best: Anya Hindmarch’s secret tea spot; Charlotte Olympia’s favourite workout; and Rosemary Ferguson on pink champagne at J Sheekey.

Enjoy the issue.

Velvet Underground The key pieces on our autumn wish list

PRADA Velvet shoulder bag, £2,150; mytheresa.com

GUISEPPE ZANOTTI Jeannine velvet boot, £1,095; guiseppezanottidesign.com

SAINT LAURENT Velvet cuff, £410; farfetch.com

ATTICO Mafle velvet pumps, £745; brownsfashion.com

DODO BAR OR Siya velvet kimono, £996; modaoperandi.com

THE GLOSSARY

EDITORIAL & CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Charlotte Adsett EDITOR: Laura Archer ART DIRECTOR & MANAGING DIRECTOR: Ray Searle CONTRIBUTORS: Claudia Baillie, Alice Fernandez, Alex Fullerton, Avril Groom, Alexandra Jones, Harriet Quick, Samantha Silver, Rachell Smith editorial@theglossarymagazine.com | advertising@theglossarymagazine.com | production@theglossarymagazine.com Published by Neighbourhood Media Limited. © 2017 Neighbourhood Media Limited. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, whether in whole or in part, without written permission.

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CONTRIBUTORS Autumn 2017

Rachell Smith

Alexandra Fullerton

Avril Groom

Rachell Smith is a celebrity portrait and fashion photographer whose work has featured in leading publications including ELLE, Harper’s Bazaar, Allure, Glamour and Vogue Italia.

Alexandra Fullerton has contributed to the likes of Glamour, Stella, Red and Vogue Brazil, and was fashion director at Stylist. Her first book, How to Dress, will be published in June 2018 by Pavilion.

Avril Groom is a luxury goods writer and editor for a range of publications including the Financial Times, How to Spend It and The Telegraph.

My favourite thing about AW17 fashion is…

I feel that the designers go all out on the trend front, which is really exciting. I am in love with the Max Mara red coat we shot for this issue.

The texture and colours are divine.

Best Sunday lunch in London?

There is a little hidden restaurant in Rotherhithe called Simplicity. It is very laid-back and the food is made fresh daily using local produce.

What do you love about shooting in London (Red Hot, p50)? It is so full of history and some of the most beautiful architecture in the world.

What’s on your shopping list for AW17?

Studded flat Givenchy ankle boots – it’s probably time to invest.

Best Sunday lunch in London?

My husband is a chef so my favourite Sunday lunch is at home – but if I’m out I’d go to the Colony Grill Room at the Beaumont hotel because Sunday lunch is all about indulgence and you have to have dessert.

Why is red the colour of the season (Red Hot, p50)? It looks boldest – and most modern – worn head to toe, which has an eye-catching effect.

My favourite thing about AW17 fashion is… the beautiful colour palette – all the golds, russets, browns, olives and burgundies that work so well together. They can represent either 1970s glamour or city chic, depending on how you style them.

Best Sunday lunch in London?

The best Sunday lunch is the one I cook with my children and three grandsons – a great excuse for lots of chat and laughs.

What do you admire most about Anya Hindmarch (One of a Kind, p38)?

I love her sense of humour and self-deprecatory approach.

Samantha Silver

Claudia Baillie

Harriet Quick

Alexandra Jones

Samantha Silver was beauty director at Stylist and has written for Tatler and The Sunday Times Style. She cofounded fashion and beauty website This is Mothership.

Claudia Baillie is the former interiors editor at The Sunday Times Style, and features editor at Livingetc. and Homes & Gardens. She writes for Elle Decoration and House & Garden.

Harriet Quick is the former fashion features director of British Vogue, a contributor to a wealth of global style titles and author of Vogue: The Shoe (2016, Condé Nast Publications).

Alexandra Jones won Vogue’s talent contest in 2009. She was commissioning editor at Stylist magazine and now writes for publications including the Guardian and Glamour.

My favourite thing about AW17 fashion is… chunky knits, statement coats and black boots. Autumn is my favourite season – everyone looks a little bit more polished, a lot more chic Best Sunday lunch in London?

My favourite roast in London is at The Stag in Belsize Park What is your top hair tip (Forever Young, p72) Treat your hair with the attention you pay to your skin and you’ll reap the rewards, especially come winter.

What’s on your shopping list for AW17?

Winter boots. I’m dreaming of Chloe’s ‘Susanna’ gold-studded pair.

Best Sunday lunch in London?

Blacklock on Great Windmill Street.

Their sharing platters of roast meats are incredible.

What inspired your autumn interiors edit (Green With Envy, p105) Jewellike shades were big news at the furniture fairs. There’s a new mood of low-key opulence.

My favourite thing about AW17 fashion is… I’m enamoured by the colour red, my new Petar Petrov gold leather cowboy boots and a pair of sunglasses from Garrett Leight for sunny winter walks Best Sunday lunch in London?

Brawn on Colombia Road is special and always inventive.

What trend won’t you be buying into this season (Trend Report, p33) Jumbo cords – I don’t really desire extra centimetres.

What’s on your shopping list for AW17? I dream of a Burberry cape.

Best Sunday lunch in London? The Bull in Highgate but it’s impossible to get a table without booking weeks ahead. I dream of pitching up after a walk on the heath and finding a table.

What impressed you most about Rosemary Ferguson (A Fine Balance, p76)? She truly believes in moderation and balance in food. It was really inspiring to meet someone with such a positive message.

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ARTS & The

The autumn agenda How to buy art

Meeting the muse: Jane Birkin

CULTURE

Life behind the easel: Eileen Cooper RA

History is a Nightclub

BEN BUCHANAN

UNTIL 31 OCTOBER

Ben Buchanan’s time as an in-house photographer in the 1980s at legendary New York nightclub Area gave him extraordinary access to the A-list as they let their hair down. From Warhol to Hockney to Grace Jones (pictured), see his images for the first time exclusively at Peter Harrington on Dover Street. peterharrington.co.uk

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Agenda Compiled by LAURA ARCHER

Venus in Fur

THEATRE ROYAL HAYMARKET FROM 6 OCTOBER

Jean-Michel Basquiat, A Panel Of Experts, 1982, courtesy The Montre

Natalie Dormer and David Oakes star as actress and director in David Ives’ sexually charged play about an audition that’s not all it seems. Funny, suspenseful and dark.

trh.co.uk

Art

BASQUIAT: BOOM FOR REAL He started out as a graffiti artist, briefly dated Madonna, is name-checked in songs by Jay-Z and Kanye West, and is collected by everyone from Blondie to Leonardo DiCaprio. But dismiss Jean-Michel Basquiat as a celebrity artist at your peril. As this visceral exhibition proves, his take on identity, race and modern culture has never been more relevant. Having died aged 27 in 1988, he can only speak to us from beyond the grave; we would be wise to listen.

Until 28 January 2018. barbican.org.uk

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BLOOMSBURY FESTIVAL VARIOUS VENUES 18-22 OCTOBER

BARBICAN

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Festival

From art exhibitions to tea dances, street parties to poetry recitals, this annual event celebrates the cultural diversity of London’s literary heart. Most of the events are free, taking place in parks, galleries, museums and universities in the area. bloomsburyfestival.org.uk

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IMPRESSIONISTS IN LONDON, FRENCH ARTISTS IN EXILE TATE BRITAIN

2 NOVEMBER-7 MAY 2018 The Franco-Prussian war of the 1870s saw numerous French artists, including Monet, Tisso and Sisley, seek refuge across the Channel. This exhibition is the first to explore how their time in London impacted upon their work, as well as the influence they had on their British peers.

tate.org.uk

Eva Gonzalès, 1849–83, © Musee d’Orsay, Paris, France Bridgeman Images

Camille Pissarro, ‘Saint Anne’s Church at Kew, London’, 1892, private collection

A R T S & C U LT U R E

Exhibition

OPERA: PASSION, POWER & POLITICS Victoria & Albert Museum UNTIL 25 FEBRUARY 2018

From Handel’s London to Shostakovich’s Leningrad, this monumental exhibition takes us through seven opera premieres in seven cities, exploring the political, cultural, economic and artistic factors that led to their composition. It is so immersive and enthralling that 400 years of operatic history go by in a flash. vam.ac.uk

VARIOUS VENUES 4-15 OCTOBER

Back for its 61st year, expect another blockbusting showcase of cinematic talent. Highlights include Andrew Garfield as a polio sufferer turned champion of disabled people’s rights in Breathe; Steve Carell and Emma Stone as tennis stars Bobby Riggs and Billie Jean King in Battle of the Sexes; and Cate Blanchett’s 13 personas in video installation Manifesto (above) with artist Julian Rosefeldt.

bfi.org.uk

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© Daniel Beres

BFI Film Festival

© Fondation Pierre Bergé – Yves Saint Laurent, Paris/All Rights Reserved

FASHION BOOKS

BETAK: FASHION SHOW REVOLUTION

YVES SAINT LAURENT ACCESSORIES

BY ALEXANDRE DE BETAK

“I like dresses to be sober and accessories to be wild,” said Yves Saint Laurent in 1977, and this epic tome pays homage to that principle, from coralbranch earrings (pictured) to lamé turbans and glass buttons. As two new museums dedicated to the brand open in Paris and Marrakesh, this book offers an insight into a littleexplored side of YSL’s genius.

Published by Phaidon

The fashion world’s go-to set designer and all-round runway revolutionary is de Betak, who has been producing catwalk extravaganzas for 25 years. This lavish book documents the creative vision and sheer hard work behind the spectacle, from Dior’s ice caves to Louis Vuitton’s transparent dome.

Published by Phaidon

BY PATRICK MAURIÈS

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CATWALKING: PHOTOGRAPHS

BY CHRIS MOORE

BY CHRIS MOORE AND ALEXANDER FURY

Chris Moore’s six-decade reign as the leading runway photographer is displayed in all its glory in this beautiful new book (out in November). From Galliano’s graduate show to McQueen’s final bow, Moore captured it all, while fashion critic Fury’s essays provide insightful context.

Published by Laurence King

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Gerald Scarfe: Stage & Screen HOUSE OF ILLUSTRATION UNTIL 21 JANUARY 2018

Cartoonist Gerald Scarfe’s biting political wit is well-known but less documented is his significant contribution to film and theatre. From storyboards to sets to costumes, spanning everything from Disney to the English National Ballet’s The Nutcracker (pictured) to Pink Floyd, this exhibition underlines Scarfe’s enormous design talent.

houseofillustration.org.uk

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Dalí/Duchamp ROYAL ACADEMY

7 OCTOBER-3 JANUARY 2018 What do you get when you put two artists renowned for their kinkiness in the same room? An exhibition that comes with a warning: contains adult content.

But for all the winks and nudges, this show offers a rare opportunity to view these two great artists and friends alongside each other, as if in conversation.

Their styles were radically different yet seen side-byside they draw something new out of each other, with Dalí’s sense of fun freeing Duchamp from his customary academic restraint, and Duchamp lending Dalí a rare authority. royalacademy.org.uk

North: Fashioning Identity

Theatre

Oslo

HAROLD PINTER THEATRE UNTIL 30 DECEMBER

SOMERSET HOUSE

8 NOVEMBER-4 FEBRUARY 2018

Fresh from Broadway and a soldout run at the National Theatre, JT Rogers’ Tony award-winning taut political thriller has now transferred to the West End, ready to wow new audiences. The action centres around the real-life story of two Norwegian diplomats tasked with reconciling the leaders of Israel and Palestine.

nationaltheatre.org.uk

Alice Hawkins featuring Abbey Clancey from the series ‘The Liver Birds’. Agyness Deyn, Rawtenstall, 2008, Alasdair Mclellan.

‘David’, 2017, Catherine Opie, courtesy Regen Projects, Los Angeles, and Thomas Dane Gallery, London.

Salvador Dalí, ‘The First Days of Spring’, 1929. Collection of the Dali Museum, St. Petersburg, Florida. © Salvador Dali, Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí, DACS 2017.

A R T S & C U LT U R E

Catherine Opie

London may be the UK’s fashion capital but, as this exhibition sets out to show, the north of England has its own enviable style, shaped by its music, film, TV and sport.

Fashion, photography and art show the region’s continuing influence. Grim up north? Far from it. somersethouse.org.uk

THOMAS DANE GALLERY UNTIL 18 NOVEMBER

From the Los Angeles LGBTQ leather community to an eerily unpeopled New York, American photographer Catherine Opie documents her country’s geography and culture quite unlike anyone else working today.

This exhibition is a chance to see part of her ongoing series ‘Portraits and Landscapes’ for the first time in the UK, including new images of David Hockney (pictured), Isaac Julien and Gillian Wearing.

somersethouse.org.uk

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Harper’s Bazaar 150 FASHION & TEXTILE MUSEUM

Poster Girls

20 OCTOBER21 JANUARY 2018

LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM 13 OCTOBER-1 JANUARY 2018

The celebrations continue as the world’s oldest fashion magazine marks 150 years. Following numerous glamorous parties and an anniversary book, the Fashion and Textile Museum is hosting its own tribute, featuring key moments in the magazine’s history alongside work by its noted photographers, including Richard Avedon, Cecil Beaton and Man Ray. ftmlondon.org © Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, Copenhagen. Photo: Ole Haupt. © Wilson L. Mead Fund, 1948.54, The Art Institute of Chicago.

With their bright graphics and catchy slogans – remember “coughs and sneezes spread diseases”? – London Transport’s posters have been guiding Londoners around the capital for a century. This is the first time the contribution of female designers has been celebrated, with more than 150 posters created by women who have been overlooked until now. There are famous names here – Zandra Rhodes, Laura Knight – but each poster has a fascinating story to tell. ltmuseum.co.uk

In Night’s Darkling Glory VENUE SECRET

Cézanne Portraits

NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY

19-22 OCTOBER

26 OCTOBER-11 FEBRUARY 2018

A castle, a feast, a voyage over the sea... This immersive music experience is based on the tragic story of Tristan and Isolde and features live music by the Arensky Chamber Orchestra (above), food by Masterchef champion Natalie Coleman and a three-storey set to explore. Other details are top secret and tickets are nearly gone, but look out for similar events later in the year.

More than 50 works from collections around the world will be gathered together for the first time to highlight the importance of the post-Impressionist master’s often overlooked portraiture. Highlights include Self-Portrait in a Bowler Hat (1885-86), right, and Madame Cézanne in a Yellow Chair (1888-90), above.

nightsdarklingglory.com

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npg.org.uk

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A R T S & C U LT U R E

Frieze REGENT’S PARK

5-8 OCTOBER 2017 Pedometers at the ready, London’s biggest art fair is back for a 15th year, with the world’s leading gallerists vying for the art crowd’s attention. It’s a thrilling opportunity for amateurs and aficionados alike to see some of the finest talents working today – plus the icons of the past over at Frieze Masters. Talking points this year include a section called Sex Work dedicated to explicit feminist art; Jeff Koons’ remake of Giotto’s Kiss of Judas, in front of which he has hung a shiny blue ball (of course); Hauser & Wirth’s pretend museum, which shows work by its artists in cases alongside random objects purchased on eBay (you can try and guess the real art from the fake); and Olafur Eliasson’s glass spheres that appear black, then fill with colour before turning clear as you walk past them.

Ponder the meaning of it all at one of the many champagne bars, which also afford excellent people-watching opportunities. frieze.com

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CLOCKWISE FROM THIS IMAGE: Amber Lotus (2016) by JeanMichel Othoniel at Galerie Perrotin; Snoopy Sees a Day Break on Earth (1970) by Alma Thomas at Michael Rosenfeld Gallery; To compete is to finish (2015) by Ryan Mosley at Galerie Eigen + Art; Night Sherbet A (1968) by Lynda Benglis at Thomas Dane Gallery

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A R T S & C U LT U R E

Interview

Je t’aime

JANE Singer, actress, muse, style icon – Jane Birkin has many strings to her bow but her life’s work remains keeping the songs of Serge Gainsbourg alive for new audiences

NICO BUSTOS

Words LAURA ARCHER

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‘W

ILL SHE DARE?’ ASKED THE BILLBOARDS OF PARIS when Jane Birkin’s debut solo concert – at the age of 40 – at Le Bataclan was announced in 1987. “As if I wasn’t scared enough,” she recalls today, laughing down the phone from the French capital where she has lived since arriving for an audition as a wideeyed ingénue in the late Sixties. But dare she most certainly did – and then some, chopping off her hair and donning a man’s Yves Saint Laurent suit and white shirt. “You will make an effort, won’t you? You will lick your lips?” Serge Gainsbourg pleaded with her. “No, I will not lick my lips,” she retorted.

“The whole point is that I want people to listen to the songs. I don’t want to be this Barbie doll anymore.”

It’s hard to think of anyone ever having considered Jane Birkin a mere Barbie doll. Long-limbed and gap-toothed, gambolling down the Boulevard Saint-Germain in a T-shirt and flared jeans, she was sexy in a carefree kind of way, her boyish figure an antidote to the hourglass shapes of the era (she has often said that Serge Gainsbourg was attracted to her because he was scared of breasts).

Born in Marylebone in 1946, she was a teenager during London’s Swinging Sixties scene and brought its spirit to Paris with her. Her effortless way of dressing earned her a reputation as a style icon but it was all accidental, she insists, even the risqué necklines and transparent dresses. “I never went out of my way,” she says.

“I was fairly bolshy in that I had great confidence in wearing whatever I liked. I got my dresses off the King’s Road. They were just T-shirts really.

It was the fashion in England but the French had never seen anything so short. I turned dresses back-to-front so they plunged. I didn’t wear bras but I didn’t know at the time that my dresses were see-through. And I dressed as a boy. I was the first person who did that.”

It’s easy to see Birkin’s influence in the legions of It girls who followed her, from Alexa Chung to Kate Moss. “Oh I’m in great admiration of Kate Moss,” Birkin says. “Not just her beauty but her funny way of talking. My daughter Lou [Doillon] is crazy about Kate Moss. Lou is far more into fashion than I am, and far braver.

I watch her. Sometimes she takes my

clothes out of the wardrobe and wears brocade evening things over a pair of jeans and high boots and she looks divine.”

Today, at the age of 70, Birkin remains true to her style roots. “There are some people I’ve been following for 40 years,” she says. “I’ve got a pair of wide, corduroy Dries van Noten trousers that I’ve been wearing for years and that I love more than most things. This year Dries’ girls are wearing baggy corduroy trousers with fake fur coats and it looks gorgeous, so I’ll

Ah yes, Hermès. It’s impossible to talk about Jane Birkin without mentioning her namesake bag, which chief executive Jean-Louis Dumas created for her after they were seated next to each other on an aeroplane and she spilled the contents of her basket bag everywhere. Birkin was synonymous with her beloved straw bag – “I got it from Covent Garden market, it was Portuguese and cost about a quid” – and she told Dumas that it was practicality rather than style that made her favour it. Women’s bags at the time were simply too small to be useful. He duly had the Maison create the roomy yet chic Birkin bag. It’s now said to be a better investment than gold. In 2015 Birkin, who is a renowned activist, asked Hermès to remove her name from the bag, following a report by animal welfare group PETA into conditions at a crocodile farm supplying the brand. Hermès duly investigated and allayed Birkin’s fears, and so the famous partnership continues. How many does Birkin own, I ask, imagining a walk-in wardrobe of bags in various colours and finishes. “Just one,” she says, almost offended. “It’s heavy so I keep it for winter and usually have someone help me with my luggage so that I can then just waft on ahead.” After a few years of use she auctions them – “I’ve heard they go for quite a bomb,” she says modestly. Hermès, naturally, sends out a replacement straight away.

But back to that exchange at Le Bataclan, which Birkin recounts fondly and with obvious relish.

There is little that hasn’t already been written about Jane and Serge, the legendary lovers, the musician and the muse, who held France and much of the world in thrall until their separation in 1980 after many films, albums and a daughter, Charlotte, together. Gainsbourg, the brooding alpha male, and Birkin, the coquettish English rose, made an unlikely yet irresistible pair. Their decade-long romance began in unlikely circumstances, when she auditioned for a part opposite him in the film Slogan (1969). She was nursing a broken heart from the collapse of her marriage to film composer John Barry, and had brought their baby daughter Kate to Paris with her. Gainsbourg was licking his wounds after Brigitte Bardot ended

“Gainsbourg, the brooding alpha male, and Birkin, the English rose, made an irresistable pair"

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get my hands on those. I stick with Saint Laurent for Le Smoking – I’ve always loved that cut. I’ve been wearing Agnès B’s men’s shirts since Le Bataclan and still wear them now. You just tie your hair in a bun with a crayon, wear a white shirt and some men’s trousers – it’s rather easy.

You look prettier than most men and I feel confident that way. And I have a great big cashmere coat from Hermès.”

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their affair and went back to her husband.

Birkin told her brother Gainsbourg was “horrible”. But then she took him dancing, decided his arrogance was shyness, and even though that night he passed out from drinking she was won over.

They separated in 1982, Birkin having grown tired of Gainsbourg’s drunken outbursts and moved on with Jacques Doillon (she had her third daughter, Lou, with him). But that night at Le Bataclan Gainsbourg was still there to support her, urging everyone in the audience to hold their lighters aloft for her. “He had his lit throughout the entire performance,” she says. “And he blew up at anybody who didn’t do the same.”

Today, more than two decades after his death from a heart attack at the age of 62, it is Birkin who holds a metaphorical lighter up to Gainsbourg as she continues to perform his music. It is, after all, music that was largely written for her.

Le Symphonique is her first album in nine years and consists of Gainsbourg’s songs set to classical music. What made her return to the recording studio? “It was coincidence really,” she says. “I’d been in Canada where I was performing Serge’s words but with no music at all – reading, in fact – with [the actors] Michele Piccoli and Herve Pierre I was explaining to a journalist there who I knew well that Serge would do our songs to classical music and she suggested I do a concert with the Montreal Philharmonic Orchestra. I thought that with my voice it might be a bit pretentious, but I got [composer] Nobuyuki Nakajima to do the orchestration, and [Gainsbourg’s artistic director] Philippe Lerichomme to choose the songs, and voilà! In fact, the way Serge’s songs have come out is just beautiful.”

This new interpretation made its debut at Montreal’s Francofolies festival in 2016, the album followed in March 2017, and Birkin is touring throughout France this November and December following a sold-out one-off performance at the Barbican in London in late September.

The stirring compositions on the album – the swell of the violins set against Birkin’s still-girlish voice in particular – may seem a world away from the infamous heavy breathing on ‘Je t’aime… moi non plus’ (their 1969 record that was denounced by the Vatican, banned on the radio throughout Europe and the US, and

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promptly became a huge hit), but Birkin insists it is true to Gainsbourg’s vision. “He was very, very Russian, so knowing him he would have been in tears [to hear it],” she says. “When you write a song, you usually can’t afford to have so many musicians – it’s all done on synthesisers – so he would have been terribly moved to hear it played by an orchestra.”

Birkin herself is similarly affected by these intimate songs being performed on such a grand scale. “It’s very emotional,” she states emphatically.

They are, after all, largely songs which Gainsbourg wrote after she left him. “There’s one that I love that’s called ‘Un Chose Entre Autres’ and the lyrics are, ‘one thing amongst other things that you don’t know is that you had the very best of me’. So I wonder how amazed he would be, 26 years later, to have me singing it.

“The arrangement has been done in such a way that I don’t have to sing at the same time as the trumpets or the harp – Nakajima gives each of us our own moment. That’s why the orchestra loves it so much, too. I thought I’d have to battle against 65 musicians and the orchestra would be frustrated because they’d all be told to play softer so the audience could hear me. But no, Nakajima has let me in as if I was a violin or a cello. He’s let me sing as an instrument.”

NICO BUSTOS

A R T S & C U LT U R E

Birkin met Nakajima quite by chance, when she flew to Japan with her daughter, the late Kate Barry, shortly after the Fukushima nuclear disaster. “We flew on a completely empty aeroplane,” she says. “Nobody was going there. So I was pleased I sang there for people’s morale, a bit like my mother did in the war.”

[Birkin’s mother was Judy Campbell, an actress and Noël Coward’s muse, who put on concerts for troops.] The musicians she performed with in Japan are still with her now. “I was far from imagining that the little group that we were, with the trumpeter, the pianist, the girl with the violin, would actually be the people that have followed me for the last six, seven years,” she says. “You discover people in the strangest situations. It’s wonderful.

A planned route is usually not the most interesting. It’s when you lose a tyre and you have to be picked up by a truck, and you go on to another little street, and that one’s far more interesting.”

It could be a metaphor for Birkin’s own life. Which little street will she turn down next, either by accident or design? We can’t wait to find out.

Birkin/Gainsbourg: Le Symphonique (Parlophone) is available now

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MARK VESSEY, ABSOLUT, OLIVIA CONNELLY

Home is where the is

ART

Every autumn the art world descends on London.

Make the most of the opportunity to snap up some pieces for your walls. Who knows, choose wisely and you might even make a little money

MARION MACPHEE, WHALE CALF, CANDIDA STEVENS GALLERY

Words LAURA ARCHER

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are daunted by the idea of Art with a capital A and confused about where to start. But you don’t have to be Charles Saatchi – or have his budget – to collect art. We asked Will Ramsay and Luci Noel, founder and director respectively of the Affordable Art Fair, for their tips on investing in art for your home.

IDENTIFY YOUR TASTE Design magazines, art fairs, galleries, museums and online platforms such as Artnet and even Instagram are all good places to browse in order to work out what you like. Are you drawn more to portraits or abstracts? Sculpture or textiles? Bucolic countryside scenes or graffiti-inspired typography? “There is a huge variety of mediums and styles, with artists experimenting with emerging technologies and injecting new life into traditional techniques,” says Luci Noel, director of the Affordable Art Fair Battersea, which takes place every autumn and spring and only features works priced under £6,000.

REBECCA FONTAINE-WOLF, FIRE AND ICE, CANDIDA STEVENS GALLERY

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UYING ART IS A BATTLE BETWEEN THE HEAD AND THE HEART, pragmatism versus passion. There are practical considerations, of course – what’s the overall design scheme of your home, how much wall space do you have, will the artwork be at risk from sticky fingers, over-exuberant pets or clumsy elbows?

But quite simply it comes down to a choice between buying something that you love instinctively and without reason, and buying something that is a sensible investment and will hold its value or, even better, increase it. Who doesn’t dream of picking up the next Picasso for peanuts?

For the uninitiated, however, it’s not so simple – in fact, it can all be a little intimidating. How do you know whether this landscape is going to be worth more than that one 10 years down the line? As the art market continues to boom, with record prices at auctions and art fairs, it’s no wonder that many would-be buyers

“There are plenty of opportunities to find the perfect piece for your style.”

EMBRACE THE UNKNOWN “Work from emerging artists at the very start of their careers can be an exciting way to find pieces at lower price points,” advises Will Ramsay, founder of the Affordable

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01/11/2017 02:04

CLAIRE LUXTON, WATERCOLOUR SERIES NO.4

A R T S & C U LT U R E

trend that shows no sign of falling out of fashion, and this year’s Affordable Art Fair is a good place to pick up pieces by hotly tipped graduates such as Romily Alice Walden – look out for her installation Utopias at the fair.

TERRY KIRKWOOD, THE Art Fair. Ask the gallerist where CUILLINS FROM SLIGACHAN the artist studied and how widely they have exhibited since graduating, as this will give you an idea of their tenacity – an essential attribute if they’re going to make it in the art world – and HEN COLEMAN, THE TEMPLE, CANDIDA STEVENS GALLERY the level of initial interest in their work. “Investing in an emerging is a brilliant way artist is an amazing way of to simplify the supporting those just breaking process of buying into the art world,” says Noel, “and they art and feel confident in your decision,” might go on to become the next big thing.” advises Medeia Cohen, co-founder and chief creative officer of The Dots creative BE PRAGMATIC network. Fairs like Frieze, The Other If your budget doesn’t stretch to an Art Fair, the London Art Fair and the original work by an established name, Affordable Art Fair, and events like the consider a limited-edition print of that Royal Academy’s Summer Exhibition, work instead. Artists frequently make a offer the chance to see the capital’s hottest run of prints and each will be numbered names and up-and-coming talent in one and signed – the lower the run, the more place, making it easier to compare and value each has. Or consider developing contrast artists who catch your eye. fields where there are still bargains to be had. Photography in particular is KEEP ON TOP OF TRENDS increasingly finding favour with collectors, Trends can be a double-edged sword – while digital work using new technologies you don’t want to pay over the odds for is another exciting area to explore. something that’s a passing fad but equally they are a useful indicator of where ONE STOP SHOP the market is heading, plus you can be The sheer number of galleries out there can confident that you’re buying something be daunting. “Visiting a specially curated that will be collectible for some years. exhibition showcasing the best recent work Neon is a classic example of a recent

AFFORDABLE ART FAIR LA.indd 23

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INSIDER KNOWLEDGE People who work in art love nothing more than talking about art – so take advantage and ask as many questions as possible. Grill gallerists on their artists: how well have they sold, have they won any prizes, have they been picked up by significant collectors? This will help you establish who is already attracting interest – an in-demand artist will bring you a good return on your investment.

Attend talks by artists, collectors and curators for unique insights into the art world – the Affordable Art Fair runs a creative programme alongside the fair itself, which features talks on topics such as how to own a Hirst, emerging artists for under £500 and how to use Instagram to start a photography collection.

LOVE WINS You’ve done your research, you’ve consulted the experts, you’ve found a good investment. Ask yourself one last question: is it The One? If you don’t love it, walk away. “Don’t be tempted to buy something simply because you believe it might rise in value,” cautions Cohen. “Return on investment can never be guaranteed.” Noel agrees: “The key is to choose a piece that you will savour for years to come.” Like all good love affairs, if you feel butterflies you’ll live happily ever after.

Affordable Art Fair, 19-22 October and 8-11 March 2018; affordableartfair.com

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A R T S & C U LT U R E HEAVENLY DAY, 2013-17

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01/11/2017 02:11

Interview

LET’S DANCE From the barre to the brush: artist Eileen Cooper’s latest work finds inspiration in the English National Ballet in a unique artistic partnership Words LAURA ARCHER

E

ILEEN COOPER IS PONDERING THE CROSSROADS at which she finds herself when I meet her at her home in south-east London on a bright day in late August. The 249th Summer Exhibition at the Royal Academy, which she coordinated, has just closed and Cooper is serving her final week as the institution’s Keeper, a position she has held since 2010. She was the first woman to be appointed to the role since the Academy was founded in 1768. Her 40-year teaching career is ending and she will be a full-time artist, represented by the prestigious Fine Art Society. Two solo exhibitions will round off the year – ‘A Woman’s Skin’ at Wolfson College, Cambridge in September, and ‘Till the Morning Comes’, which opens at The Fine Art Society on New Bond Street on 30 October.

“Age focuses the mind – I think I’m still youthful and I want to make the most of it,” Cooper tells me over coffee in her studio, the sun streaming through the large sash windows, bouncing off the high ceilings and white walls hung with her canvases. “Teaching has kept me on my toes but I’ve done my bit. To have the chance to work with this level of gallery was a real boost and I thought, ‘I’m really going to give this all I’ve got’.”

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Cooper, 64, was born in BODY AND SOUL, 2016 Glossop, Derbyshire, into a working-class family from which she was the first person to go on to higher education. “Drawing and painting was my escape as a middle child – I never thought I would be an artist,” she recalls.

“I didn’t go to a museum until I was 17. But I was lucky in that I met the right people along the way who encouraged me, and also I had parents who didn’t demand anything of me – they never said ‘you can’t do that, you’ve got to do this’. I went to art school and did OK; I went to Goldsmiths and did well.

And then I went to the Royal College and got myself a studio.

Suddenly there was a tipping point when I’d been doing it long enough to allow myself to believe I was an artist.”

Cooper made a name for herself in the 1980s, her colourful, figurative paintings celebrating the female form in all its guises, from lover to mother to goddess. “My art is all about the body – the physicality, the expressiveness of the female figure,” she explains. “Crawling, bending and twisting are forms I use a lot. My work has been very self-generated, especially when my children were dependant on me,” she adds. “It’s very much about that poetic depiction of family life and that intense relationship returned to London this autumn at Sadler’s you have with your children – more about Wells (it is currently playing in Liverpool). looking in than looking out.” Cooper hopes The collaboration arose out of a chance that the change in pace now that she is no conversation Cooper had with a guest at longer teaching will encourage new ways of one of her exhibitions who was a patron working. “I’ve always had lots of demands of the ENB. Introductions were made, on my time, so this is the point when I can conservations had and the end result was really progress my work and do new things,” Cooper sketching the dancers from initial she says. “Now I will be able to travel more rehearsals to curtain up. “Their idea was and see exhibitions – and generally just have that I follow one ballet all the way through,” a more leisurely approach to my art rather she explains. “It was very clever of them and than being on it manically.” it worked brilliantly for me. I got to know The change in mood is already evident one of the dancers in particular and she then in her latest body of work, in which her came to my studio at the Royal Academy focus has shifted from her internal life to sit for me.” The dancer in question was to the external world. For these new American rising star Madison Keesler, who paintings, Cooper followed the dancers of was cast in the title role. Neither had done the English National Ballet (ENB) as they anything like this before. “I’ve worked with rehearsed Akram Khan’s award-winning photographers and I’ve had artists create contemporary reinterpretation of Giselle, paintings and drawings from photographs, which made its world premiere in 2016 and but this was my first experience of being a

live model,” Keesler tells me from San Francisco where she has just relocated. “I really enjoyed the process, it felt very collaborative to me. Eileen would zoom in on small details that I wasn’t even aware of. It was great to be able to hear and feel what moves or positions inspired her.”

Cooper is similarly enthusiastic about the process. “From my rehearsal sketches, Madison could see the steps, the passages from the ballet, and she was able to then go through it really slowly and hold some of the poses.” She points at two canvases sitting on easels next to us. “One of the repetitive movements the dancers make is when they’re covering their faces like that.

I discovered that gesture had a very emotional, personal connection for me. I found the language she used to describe what she was doing and the names of her poses really fascinating. And in drawing Madison, it was amazing how she used her hands – all my work is about touch and feeling so hands are really important.

I always show the hands and often feet as well. Occasionally [my subjects] are wearing little slippers but often their feet are free. And when Madison posed for me, she was barefooted.”

The paintings convey both the physicality of the dance and the tragedy of the story. There are no happy endings awaiting the figures arching within the frame or reaching towards the edges of the canvas. The colour palette, unusually for Cooper, is muted, made up predominantly of blue, grey and flesh tones inspired

by Oscar-winner Tom Yip’s costumes and set designs for the ballet. Hair tumbles free, unrestrained by the conventional ballet bun. It’s hard to tell whether the couples are embracing or pushing each other away.

There is love and anguish in equal parts.

Some figures have been transported from the stage altogether, set against climbing ivy, barren fields and wild woods, a technique that lends the narrative a sense of fairy tale – albeit a dark one. “As time went on my figures became more engaged in an imaginative world rather than the theatre,” Cooper says.

“My art is all about the body – the physicality, the expressiveness of the female figure"

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01/11/2017 02:12

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF EILEEN COOPER AND THE FINE ART SOCIETY

While the paintings are still instantly identifiable as Cooper’s – her signature black outlines, figurative shapes and strong lines – they are distinct from her main body of work. Is she nervous about the reaction when they are shown at her debut exhibition for The Fine Art Society? “I think you’re always a bit nervous,” she says. “You never take it for granted. You want people to like the work – or respond to it, rather. I think this is significantly different to work I’ve done before and maybe that darker side of it might surprise people expecting playful, bright colours. But you have to be true. As an artist you’re searching for a truth in what you’re doing. And it felt like I’d made a real, honest connection with the dancers, with the ballet and the music.”

The connection was mutual, says Keesler.

“When I look at the work, it has such a sense of freedom. It’s wonderful that even in a still painting she can encapsulate such a beautiful feeling of movement.”

Cooper had to finish the series and the other works for the show before she started coordinating the entries for the Summer Exhibition. “I’m really glad I did because it would have been really difficult to get back into that headspace,” she says. “But it was an amazing thing to do and I was able to include all the themes I’m passionate about – inclusion, breadth of practice, and so on.

We wanted to encourage a lot of East End galleries to take part and we had artists from pretty much every continent. For the first time [in the Summer Exhibition’s history] we included performance art.”

Cooper’s year as coordinator was also unique in that she headed a nearly all-female committee. “Five women and three men,” she

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says. “Often at the Academy you’re struggling to get one or two women. So I don’t think balance was an issue this year, whereas previously it has been. We’ve been discussing inequality in the art world at the Academy for a long time and it is quite slow to change.

But now we discuss other important issues of diversity as well, not just gender. Looking at ourselves, we need to be representative of the rest of the world, not just a crowd of grey-haired men who went to rather good schools.” Tellingly, Cooper’s successor to the role of Keeper is another woman, Rebecca Salter. “I’m proud of that,” Cooper says. “It’s a fabulous role, it’s exciting and it’s meaningful, enabling the next generation. The thing about being the Keeper is that your ego as an artist needs to be separate. It’s about the students, the schools, the next generation, the academy, and you are custodian and facilitator. Obviously as an artist you’ve got to have a healthy ego but people are coming to see the schools, the students, and you’re just a part of that. It’s quite hard to manage but I think Rebecca will be wonderful.”

Cooper has long been a passionate advocate of women’s rights and the struggle against inequality. “The word feminism emerged in the late Sixties, early Seventies. I’m part of that generation and yet we’re still grappling with it,” she says, her soft, lilting voice hardening for the first time. “When you hear about the women at the BBC being so undervalued…

And I know so many women working in the City who face it all the time. They turn up at meetings and people are surprised that they’re not men but rather confident young women who are bloody good at their jobs.”

It’s something Cooper has faced herself, right from the start of her career. “I had my family when I was about 30 and I was the primary caregiver for a long, long time,” she says. “In those days you felt that if you didn’t have a drink in the bar [at the end of the day], you somehow weren’t a real artist.

When you have a family is when the lines are really drawn.” Looking back, Cooper says she coped by accepting that summers would be a “wipeout” and Christmas, too.

“I’m good at compartmentalising my life,” she says. “But at the same time, people don’t talk enough about the values of having a family for women. It’s made me incredibly focused, really great at time management, and I think I’m diplomatic and caring in a way that I wasn’t before I had children. And the beauty of having a studio at home was that I could still work whenever I could – although I was always rushing.” We both look down at the wooden floor, spattered

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with 30 years’ worth of paint – and no doubt sweat and tears, too. “So that’s why I really want to make the most of my time now,” she says, smiling. It will be fascinating to see what she does with it.

‘Till the Morning Comes’, 30 October21 November, The Fine Art Society, 148 New Bond Street, Mayfair, W1S; thefineartsociety.com

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GLOSSARY TOP SHOPS I love the Issey Miyake store on Brook Street.

For art materials, AP Fitzpatrick in the East End and the magical Cornelissen, which has been in business since 1855.

20 Brook Street, Mayfair, W1, isseymiyake.com; 142 Cambridge Heath Road, Bethnal Green, E1, apfitzpatrick.co.uk; 105A Great Russell Street, Bloomsbury, WC1, cornelissen.com FOR A SPECIAL OCCASION The Wolseley. No matter what time you go they are always busy, which I love, and the menu has something for everyone.

160 Piccadilly, St James’s, W1, thewolseley.com MOST INSPIRING VIEW Looking across the river from One Tree Hill in Greenwich Park. The mix of historic and contemporary really sums up London.

FAVOURITE MUSEUM OR GALLERY The National Gallery. It’s totally inspiring and you can learn so much in there.

I absolutely love the early Italian paintings.

Trafalgar Square, Westminster, WC2; nationalgallery.org.uk WHERE TO EXPLORE Rotherhithe, which is bordered by Bermondsey and Deptford so there’s lots to see, or Beckenham Place Park.

BREATHING SPACE, 2016

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Buy Sell Share

pre-owned luxury fashion vestiairecollective.com

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STYLE The

Anya Hindmarch on British bespoke

Head-to-toe red is the colour of the season Your essential trend guide The best bags, coats and shoes

Girl Power Missoni’s AW17 campaign has been shot, under the creative direction of Angela Missoni, by photographer-of-the-moment Harley Weir. Starring supermodel Gigi Hadid, Missoni’s images are a continuation on the themes of female empowerment, identity and freedom. The label’s hallmark zigzags, bold stripes and graphic prints are balanced by linear silhouettes and primary tones.

Missoni, 193 Sloane Street, Belgravia, SW1 missoni.com

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01/11/2017 10:28

Fashion Notes Browns goes East, Burberry upsizes, Dior has the blues and fur finally falls Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

THE FUTURE’S HERE Browns has just opened a new augmented concept store in Shoreditch called Browns East that aims offer customers a new experience each time.

Expect a constantly changing edit, innovative technology, art installations and brands such as Prada, Jacquemus and Balenciaga alongside pioneering New Generation designers.

21 Club Row, Shoreditch, E2; brownsfashion.com

FEELING BLUE

Check mate

Meet The Giant, Burberry’s oversized tartan and check unisex tote with an important detail – it’s reversible.

Available in primary shades, with flashes of neon for an extra clash of colour, if you like your bags big, bold and slouchy, this is The One. The Giant tote bag, £1,295; burberry.com

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s second ready-to-wear collection for the house of Dior was themed around Christian Dior’s favourite colour, from baby blue denim to midnight velvet. Models including Adwoa Aboah and Ruth Bell all wore a leather beret, which has become the defining accessory of the season with its military associations, providing a fitting metaphor for a designer reflecting on the year’s political and social turmoil.

160-162 New Bond Street, Mayfair, W1; dior.com

Winter Warmer

TEXT APPEAL From Jane Birkin to David Bowie, Bella Freud draws inspiration from some of fashion and music’s most iconic stars for her designs, most notably in her cult knitted sweaters with hand-written pop culture references such as ‘Ginsberg is God’ and ‘Je t’aime Jane’. The AW17 collection does not disappoint with new slogans ‘Fashion’, ‘Sado Maso’ and ‘Hallelujah Baby’, all in bold colours and spun from the finest merino and cashmere wool.

Knitted sweater, £290 49 Chiltern Street, Marylebone, W1; bellafreud.com

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TIME FOR CHANGE

ere’s a pre-Christmas treat for gem lovers at Harrods with the relaunch of the Cartier boutique, which will be the largest in Harrods’ new Fine Jewellery Room and will showcase the brand’s cra smanship with one-of-a-kind watches and jewellery. Harrods’ new Fine Watch Room is revealed in spring.

Panthères et Colibri watch by Cartier at Harrods, £POA; harrods.com

MYTHERSA.COM

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01/11/2017 02:28

STYLE

MADE TO

MEASURE SHRIMPS Helga faux fur coat, £475; shrimps.co.uk

CHARLOTTE SIMONE Lacey faux fur scarf, £150; charlottesimone.com

MARCO DE VINCENZO Faux fur sandals, £580; net-a-porter.com

FAUX SURE

SHRIMPS Una faux fur bag, £375; shrimps.co.uk

SHRIMPS Ange faux fur shawl, £195; shrimps.co.uk

Following the likes of Armani, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein and Net-a-Porter, Gucci recently committed to be completely fur free from spring 2018 and has pledged to auction all past fur garments to benefit animal-rights charities. Gucci’s president and CEO Marco Bizzarri described the use of animal fur as “outdated” and “not modern”. He added, “Technology is now available that means you don’t need to use fur. The alternatives are luxurious. There is just no need.” We agree – we are committed to keeping the pages of The Glossary fur free and are pleased to see Gucci leading by example. We hope to see the rest of the industry follow suit. After all, with young London brands such as Shrimps already basing their collections around high-quality synthetic fur, there’s no denying the fact that the future of fashion is faux.

BURBERRY Faux fur coat, £1,295; burberry.com

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We have good news for those who wish to design their very own bespoke shoes or handbag – Jimmy Choo has extended its popular MadeTo-Order service in store and online, with new shoe and handbag styles, plus new fabrics this season. Signature shoe options now include the Romy court and the Emily sandal, plus new evening clutch bags. You can dictate everything from style to heel height (flats up to 4.8”) to fabric (patent leather, satin, snakeskin, glitter, velvet), all in a myriad of colours. There is even an option to engrave initials, a short phrase or a memorable date inside a bag or on to the sole of the shoe.

27 New Bond Street, Mayfair, W1; jimmychoo.com

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STYLE

TREND This season’s

Report Hit the reset button on your wardrobe – it’s time for a new season and new rules Words HARRIET QUICK

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ALBERTA FERRETTI

ANNA SUI

FOLK

ETRO

TEMPERLEY LONDON

FOLKSY STYLE IS AN ANTI-FASHION STATEMENT that has come into its own as creatives rediscover handwork techniques and recalibrate flora and fauna motifs that play to our love of bohemian romance. Eclectic layering is at the core of this trend with outsize lumberjack check shirts topping print dresses at CHLOÉ; handkerchief hems and patchwork dresses at ALEXANDER MCQUEEN; richly patterned silks at ETRO; and beautifully embroidered velvet gowns worn with riding boots and capes at PETER PILOTTO.

KEY PIECE:

ETRO Plissē silk-chiffon dress, £2,575; HARRODS.COM

TIBI

ANNA SUI Flocked lamē blouse, £830; NET-A-PORTER.COM

CALVIN KLEIN 205W39TH

KEY PIECE:

BALENCIAGA Wool-blend checked coat, £1,715; MYTHERESA.COM

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RALPH LAUREN

KEY PIECE:

THE NEW SILHOUETTE IS SHARP IN THE SHOULDER-LINE AND EASY ON THE BODY, with cuts to flatter all silhouettes, as designers as diverse as the renamed CALVIN KLEIN 205W39th under Raf Simons, RALPH LAUREN, VICTORIA BECKHAM, GABRIELA HEARST and STELLA MCCARTNEY recalibrate the city-savvy uniform. Prince of Wales checks, houndstooth and plaid lend the new trouser suits and topcoats Wall Street punch. The trouser suit has not been in vogue since the mid 1990s when the style set adopted ARMANI’s soft tailoring and HELMUT LANG’s lean, clean cuts. The message then was ‘stealth power’. Now it’s all about confident expression.

It feels fresh and it feels right.

GABRIELA HEARST

MASCULINE ‘POWER’ TAILORING

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STYLE

SPACE AGE

THIERRY MUGLER

THE SIGHT OF A FULL-SCALE ROCKET TAKING LAUNCH at CHANEL’s show at the Grand Palais was one of 2017’s most memorable fashion moments. The collection was full of space age optimism with metallic flecked tweeds, crystal-encrusted go-go boots and padded metallic stoles.

The newly rebranded HELMUT LANG (curated by i-D’s Isabella Burley) featured silver ‘Nasa’ jackets, while at MUGLER Sci-Fi metallic pleats with sharp padded shoulders turned models into intergalactic goddesses.

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MAX MARA

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

KEY PIECE:

SAINT LAURENT College leather bag, £1,725; FARFETCH.COM

KEY PIECE:

BALENCIAGA Knife leather boots, £645; NET-A-PORTER.COM

KEY PIECE:

GIVENCHY

GUCCI GG stretch kick-flare trousers, £750; MATCHESFASHION.COM

R E

D

IT SPELLS PASSION AND IT SPEAKS OF EMPOWERMENT – RED IS THE COLOUR OF THE SEASON. There are many shades with as many connotations: a purple-toned red is sultry while a fuchsia red is flirtatious. The happy medium is a fire-engine hue that is full of vivacity. Red has long been a signature for VALENTINO yet this season many others have tackled the tone. FENDI delivered romantic lace and chiffon midi dresses; ROKSANDA layered up tones from terracotta to lipstick red in snakeskin coats and quilted tunics and MAX MARA dominated the runway with supermodels sporting bold head-to-toe looks in all shades of crimson. It was so omnipresent that GIVENCHY’s first collection without Riccardo Tisci was entirely red. And rethink your annual black boot purchase – red boots have the energy and attitude we need for now.

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KEY PIECE:

ATTICO Grace sequined wrap dress, £2,245; NET-A-PORTER.COM

THIS TREND IS ALL ABOUT MAKING YOUR BODY DAZZLE ON THE DANCEFLOOR. Lamé gowns, marabou trims, sequins and tinsel finishes abounded as designers turned their focus on disco’s 1970s heyday in NYC, London and Paris, when clubland gave birth to unheralded glamour and decadence.

HALPERN, an emerging talent in London, seized the spirit with rainbow-sequinned column gowns, matching platforms and socks. The exuberance ran through PHILIP PLEIN’s crystal-studded leathers to BALMAIN’s feather patchwork mini skirts, DIANE VON FURSTENBERG’s one-shouldered all-in-ones, and VERSACE’s metallic chainmail cocktail dresses.

VERSACE

DISCO

BALMAIN

JULIEN MACDONALD

SAINT LAURENT

NINA RICCI

HALPERN

STYLE

LUXE

LUXED-UP SPORTSWEAR IS FLOURISHING AND IT’S HERE TO STAY. There’s a host of smart-thinking brands that are delivering top-notch kit to urbanites in love with the cool and the ease of street style.

London’s OLIVIA VON HALLE and CAITLIN PRICE both excel in tailored bombers and track pants, while FENTY PUMA

by Rihanna delivered outsize jackets with chinoiserie motifs, plus organza trousers with KEY PIECE: chevron-striped knee socks BALENCIAGA Outerspace puffa coat, £2,050; and pointy stiletto boots, for a MATCHESFASHION.COM look both polished and tough.

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OLIVIA VON HALLE

SPORTSWEAR

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Interview

ONE a

of

For Anya Hindmarch, bags are more than mere accessories – they stand for British craftsmanship, the power of bespoke and the importance of humour Words AVRIL GROOM

WARD-WINNING DESIGNER, GOVERNMENT ADVISOR, CBE, UK TRADE AMBASSADOR, TRUSTEE OF THE ROYAL ACADEMY AND DESIGN MUSEUM, VEUVE CLICQUOT BUSINESSWOMAN OF THE YEAR, MOTHER-OF-FIVE – the many accomplishments of Anya Hindmarch are unrivalled in the fashion world, with perhaps the exception of Stella McCartney. Her bags have been worn by everyone from the Princess of Wales and Margaret Thatcher to Kate Moss and Gigi Hadid. The entrepreneurial spirit which saw her, aged 18, persuade Harpers & Queen magazine to feature a bag she had designed, and open her first store on Walton Street in Chelsea at just 19, still drives her today, as she celebrates three decades in an industry where longevity is perhaps the biggest achievement of all.

In person Hindmarch, 49, is open, friendly and, with her understated, casually elegant style, far less intimidating than many fashion stalwarts. She is fresh from another headlinegrabbing show at London Fashion Week, the finale of which saw a disco ball rising from a house built in the middle of the catwalk in her homage to suburbia. Perhaps surprisingly for a handbag designer, Hindmarch’s show is always keenly awaited and attracts a stellar front row. She was, as she points out, “the first accessories designer to hold a runway show for handbags. It allows our customers to see what we’ve been thinking about for the past six months. It’s a little nuts but means we can bring the collection to life in a creative way.” The challenge of focussing on a relatively small accessory in a vast show space has resulted in spectacular, surprising sets, images from which subsequently flood Instagram. Hindmarch also creates a small ready-to-wear range, usually based on coats, to act as a foil to the bags.

“We’ve had everything from models floating in the air – inspired by our ‘featherweight’ Ebury bag – through to a 100-piece male voice choir singing ‘Pilgrim’s Chorus’ by Richard Wagner,” she explains. “For this autumn’s collection we had a huge, architectural mountainscape that took models and the audience on a journey through old Norse folklore.”

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One of the earliest shows involved a mechanical, Heath Robinson-style contraption to display the bags. Finally, a curtain opened to reveal that the whole thing was driven by Hindmarch, pedalling vigorously on a bicycle, creating laughter as well as admiring applause. Humour is a key part of a business that, despite making more than £35 million in annual sales and boasts an expanding global store empire that currently stands at 45, never takes itself too seriously. “I think being British helps in that,” she says.

“Humour is one of the things I love most about England. Humour, personalisation and craftsmanship are what we are most known for and sit at the heart of everything we do. Laughter is our lifeblood at our HQ, which I think comes through in the product. Laughter and cake,” she adds with a smile.

This attitude is apparent in many of Hindmarch’s iconic designs. Who else could have made a tote emblazoned with a Kellogg’s logo chic? Her AW14 collection did just that, turning everyday British household brands – John Lewis, Daz detergent and Rich Tea biscuits among them – into high fashion. The AW17 collection features cartoon eyes on everything from backpacks to wallets. Then there’s her leather sticker collection, created with super-stylist Charlotte Stockdale of Chaos, featuring fried eggs, smiley faces, alphabet letters and phrases like LOL and Ugh, with which customers can personalise the plain business totes she does so well.

Prices start from just £45 and they have proved so popular that at the last official count (in 2015) they had netted some £15 million in revenue.

Perhaps the most famous design of them all is the handcrafted clutch bag modelled on a Walker’s crisp bag, which became an A-list favourite and achieved an unexpected notoriety when it got caught up in that elevator fight between Beyoncé’s sister, Solange Knowles, and Jay-Z. “Worth fighting for,” quipped Hindmarch at the time, putting that humour on display again.

“Everything and anything inspires me,” she says today. “One collection was inspired by a toy I discovered in Narita airport in Tokyo. People inspire me, architecture, travel – and chocolate. I’m a big believer in

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feeding your brain. It is amazing how ideas bank and come to fruition later.”

A permanent source of inspiration has always been bespoke work. “It started with a trunk my husband has that was made for his grandfather,” she explains. “It is wider than usual because he had particularly large feet and his luggage had to accommodate his shoes. Hence that old trunk has a story, and every time we show it to someone the story gets told. More than anything else, this sense of a personal connection means luxury to me. That’s what led to our Bespoke business, where everything is dedicated to personalisation. Every item comes with the name of the person it was made for embossed into the leather, and customers can request pictures printed in silk inlaid into drawers, and messages written in their own handwriting stamped inside. Even the boxes the items are packaged in have the customer’s name rather than mine. We have a store in London devoted to it, and Bespoke floors in London, Tokyo, New York and LA flagships plus a Bespoke outpost in Bergdorf

Goodman, which is a huge honour. It’s all about the person the pieces are made for.

Our craftsmen’s on-site workshop helps to reconnect our customer with how things are made, creating something to treasure and pass down.”

The latest in the Bespoke range is ‘Build a Bag’, which launched earlier this year. The concept entails assembling the elements of a simple tote from a vast array of skins and colours. “People don’t want to be the same as everyone else,” Hindmarch says. “My friend would always add a charm tied on a ribbon to her father’s wristwatch. It makes it yours and turns a beautiful and seriously made piece into something light-hearted.

I like this irreverent approach combined with absolute quality – the two attributes deliver more than the sum of their parts.

With Build a Bag in store there is the bonus of instant gratification – you choose your base, pick handles, straps and charms, then take it home, which adds to the fun, I think.”

Craftsmanship is the touchstone of the business and the aspect of which Hindmarch is perhaps most proud. “I am obsessed with craftsmanship, it is part of our DNA,” she asserts. “The craftsmen are my heroes – I won’t compromise on quality so we work wherever they are, and with only the finest materials. Leathers are made especially for us in the world’s best tanneries, while exotic skins are

AW 14

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STYLE

L

O

Anya's N

D

O

N

GLOSSARY BEST COFFEE London Cabmen’s Shelters are wonderful tiny green wooden huts that have been around since 1875 to serve tea to cabbies. Only 13 remain – there’s one near my Bespoke store on Pont Street. You order through a hatch.

TOP SHOPS Lassco has the most incredible range of curiosities. I have bought all sorts there, from reclaimed floorboards to taps. I love the V&A museum shop for children’s gifts and adore the historic men’s shops in St. James’s.

Lassco: 30 Wandsworth Road, Vauxhall, SW8; lassco.co.uk. V&A: Cromwell Road, Knightsbridge, SW7; vam.ac.uk. stjameslondon.co.uk FAVOURITE RESTAURANT Petersham Nurseries or Lassco’s restaurant, Brunswick House, which serves incredible locally sourced food.

Church Lane, Petersham Road, Richmond, TW10; petershamnurseries.com

SS 17

hand-dyed in wonderful colours to fit our collections. Our bespoke Maud clutch is made entirely to order in England, from the satin embroidery to the crystal clasps.

It’s a very beautiful thing.” Some items have a mix of sources, including British innovation. That crisp bag for instance, “is literally inspired by my love of giving everyday items a crafted, luxury treatment,” she explains. “We had the crisp packet 3D-scanned by a company in Sheffield, the first in the UK to start this process – they work mainly with the automotive industry.

They use up to a hundred cameras on tripods to take 360-degree photos of the object at the same time. Then we cast the scanned models and worked with an amazing second-generation minaudière maker in Florence, who are masters of this craft. It is completely asymmetrical, very complicated and took many goes to get right – a real labour of love. But it is a

OUR TOP 5

Glitter stickers small Orsett, £1,595

“Laughter is our lifeblood, which comes through in our products" perfect little clutch and actually a piece of art, really modern yet also a forever classic.”

Throughout her career, Hindmarch has shown an unnerving knack for capturing customers’ imaginations at the right moment. The £5 ‘I’m not a plastic bag’ canvas shoppers in 2007 – for which customers queued around the block – anticipated the recycleable bag movement in a gently humorous, rather than preachy, way. Her ‘Be a Bag’ initiative in 2001 printed customers’ own photographs on totes, foreshadowing the massive current

IDEAL NIGHT OUT The cinema feels like a real treat. My favourite is the Curzon Mayfair, the bonus being you can bring your glass of wine into the theatre with you. 38 Curzon Street, Mayfair, W1; curzoncinemas.com

demand for personalisation and even perhaps the selfie. What might be next?

Hindmarch may seem unstoppable but every designer has to look to the future.

When I ask if she has spotted any young British talent who might follow in her footsteps, her diplomacy kicks in. “I’m a huge supporter of British fashion,” she says. “Our cultural diversity and rich heritage are powerful influences, making British fashion innovative and unique.

London Fashion Week sits confidently next to other fashion capitals and its creativity is something we can be truly proud of as Brits.”

N E W S E A S O N H A N D B AG S

Mini chain Vere, £995

Paperchain mini Vere satchel, £1,095

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MOST-LOVED MUSEUM OR GALLERY The new Design Museum or the Royal Academy. I visit both as much as I can.

Design Museum: Kensington High Street, Kensington, W8; designmuseum.org.

Royal Academy: Burlington House, Piccadilly, Mayfair, W1; royalacademy.org.uk

Circle small Bathurst satchel, £1,395

Heart extra-small Bathurst satchel, £1,095

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The

Style

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STYLE

From covetable coats to must-have totes and boots for all occasions, we bring you the season's hero accessories Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

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Bags Talent of

Presenting the standout styles to invest in this autumn

Top Handle PREVIOUS PAGE: GUCCI Dionysus bag, £2,600; farfetch.com.

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP MIDDLE: DOLCE & GABBANA Welcome Print bag, £3,050; harrods.com.

JACQUEMUS Le Petit Rond bag, £595; brownsfashion.com.

VALEXTRA Iside bag, £2,820; modaoperandi.com.

FENDI Kan I bag, £2,400, matchesfashion.com.

MARK CROSS Benchley bag, £1,910; harrods.com.

MARNI Pannier bag, £1,785; modaoperandi.com.

GUCCI Queen Margaret bag, £2,250; gucci.com.

DANSE LENTE Lilou bag, £426; modaoperandi.com.

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STYLE

Bucket LEFT TO RIGHT: MATEO The Madeline bag, £444; modaoperandi.com. TRADEMARK Goodall bag, £714; modaoperandi.com.

PERRIN PARIS Calle bag, £1,581; farfetch.com. PROENZA SCHOULER Hex bag, £1,375; brownsfashion.com. ALEXANDER WANG Roxy bag, £585; net-a-porter.com

Mini LEFT TO RIGHT: SHRIMPS Una bag, £375; shrimps.co.uk. SIMON MILLER Bonsai bag, £552; modaoperandi.com.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Daphne bag, £1,400; ferragamo.com. DANSE LENTE Johnny bag, £321; modaoperandi.com. MARQUES ALMEIDA Curb-chain bag, £526; matchesfashion.com.

Shoulder LEFT TO RIGHT: GUCCI Broadway bag, £2,250; gucci.com. BURBERRY The Small Buckle bag, £2,195; burberry.com.

DOLCE & GABBANA Lucia Majolica bag, £2,250; harrods.com. MUI MUI Dahlia bag, £2,040; net-a-porter.com. BALENCIAGA Scarf strap bag, £1,255; brownsfashion.com.

Tote LEFT TO RIGHT: VALENTINO The Rockstud bag, £2,030; net-a-porter.com. JIMMY CHOO Lockett bag, £1,995; jimmychoo.com.

ANYA HINDMARCH Ebury Maxi Stickers bag, £1,995; anyahindmarch.com. GIVENCHY Antigona shopper bag, £890; mytheresa.com. BALENCIAGA Classic City Graffiti bag, £1,395; selfridges.com.

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Coat of Arms Ruffles, belts, military styling, heritage fabrics and an update on the classic raincoat

Mac MUI MUI Faux fur-trimmed raincoat, £1,700; mytheresa.com

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Ladylike LEFT TO RIGHT: MUI MUI Wool coat, £2,655; net-a-porter.com. VALENTINO Wool coat, £4,255; harrods.com. GUCCI Mohair and Alpaca coat, £3,680; mytheresa.com.

ALESSANDRA RICH Wool coat, £2,496; modaoperandi.com. ROCHAS Bow detail coat, £1,161; farfetch.com. SHRIMPS Stuart coat, £950; shrimps.co.uk.

Trench LEFT TO RIGHT: ADAM LIPPES Corduroy coat, £1,265; net-a-porter.com. BURBERRY Plastic coat, £1,895; burberry.com. BALENCIAGA Corduroy coat, £1,625; brownsfashion.com.

MAGDA BUTRYM Punta Cana satin coat, £1,338; modaoperandi.com. FLEUR DU MAL Velvet coat, £1,270; net-a-porter.com. ACLER Fyffe coat, £384; modaoperandi.co.uk.

Tailored LEFT TO RIGHT: MIRA MIKATI Wool coat, £990; net-a-porter.com. CHRISTOPHER KANE Wool coat, £1,995; net-a-porter.com. ALEXANDER McQUEEN Cashmere coat, £3,750; harrods.com.

A.F. VANDEVORST Mentalist faux fur coat, £1,144; carrecouture.com. CHLOÉ Wool coat, £1,375; net-a-porter.com. SAINT LAURENT Wool coat, £2,565; farfetch.com.

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Low Heels

Flats TOP LEFT THEN CLOCKWISE: ALEXANDER WANG Spencer studded boots, £785; selfridges.com. JIMMY CHOO Breeze leopard print boots, £1,375; jimmychoo.com.

LANVIN Chain boots, £960; selfridges.com. GIVENCHY Rose print boots, £1,050; farfetch.com. ALAÏA Studded boots, £1,080; net-a-porter.com.

BALENCIAGA Apron buckle boots, £835; brownsfashion.com.

brownsfashion.com MIDDLE TOP THEN CLOCKWISE: GANNI Callie patent boots, £415; brownsfashion.com.

TABITHA SIMMONS Shadow leopard print boots, £699; modaoperandi.com. ISABEL MARANT Domya studded boots, £590; farfetch.com. CHLOÉ Susanna denim boots, £745; net-a-porter.com.

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI Embellished boots, £1,250; giuseppezanottidesign.com. ACNE Jensen metallic boots, £410; matchesfashion.com. GUCCI Marmont pearl boots, £1,170; gucci.com.

A R E YO U R E A DY,

BOOTS? Make strides with boots that mean business wherever you go

Knee High

High Heels TOP LINE: ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Fold Over Eyelet boots, £1,080; brownsfashion.com.

AQUAZZURA Almaty velvet boots, £845; aquazzura.com. GUISEPPE ZANOTTI Josephine glitter boots, £665; giuseppezanottidesign.com. SAINT LAURENT Opyum 110 boots, £1,100; farfetch.com. BOTTOM LINE: ALEXANDRE BIRMAN Liz boots, £535; net-a-porter.com.

GUCCI Flowers Intarsia boots, £1,610; gucci.com. JIMMY CHOO Daize gold boots, £875; jimmychoo.com. DOLCE & GABBANA Painted 90 boots, £1,100; harrods.com.

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LEFT TO RIGHT: AQUAZZURA Cosmic Pearls velvet boots, £1,335; matchesfashion.com.

BALENCIAGA Knife stretch-knit boots, £950; net-a-porter.com.

VICTORIA BECKHAM Leather boots, £1,250; victoriabeckham.com.

VALENTINO Lovestud boots, £1,130; farfetch.com.

CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA Poppy boots, £1,095; charlotteolympia.com.

OPPOSITE PAGE: OFF-WHITE Patent boots £1,430; net-a-porter.com.

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Re

d HOT Stop traffic in this season’s hottest colour, worn head-to-toe for maximum impact Photography RACHELL SMITH Fashion ALEXANDRA FULLERTON

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PREVIOUS PAGE: GIVENCHY Fringed dress, £1,780; at Selfridges OPPOSITE PAGE: GUCCI Cashmere jumper, £640, and pleated technical skirt, £560; at Browns VALENTINO Silk turban, £280, at Fenwick. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Patent shoes, £695 THIS PAGE: VERSACE Wool jumper, £460; at stylebop.com VICTORIA BECKHAM Knitted skirt, £695; at net-a-porter.com HERMÈS Leather bag, £4,950

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MAX MARA Pappino oversize camel hair and silk blend coatoat, £1,740; velvet trousers, £305; knitted polo neck, £380; knitted sleeveless jumper, £270 MULBERRY Leather bag, £995 JIMMY CHOO Annok leather court shoes, £425

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OSMAN Wool blend jacket, £755, trousers, £295; at Browns LOCK & CO. Wool fedora hat, £495

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THIS PAGE: EMILIA WICKSTEAD Milan wool crepe midi dress, £1,500; at net-a-porter.com NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD Lola Pearl suede ballet pumps, £495; at farfetch.com OPPOSITE PAGE: MAX MARA Pappino oversize camel hair and silk blend coat, £1,740; VICTORIA GRANT Felt hat, £385; at Fenwick

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PHOTOGRAPHY Rachell Smith FASHION Alexandra Fullerton ART DIRECTOR Charlotte Adsett MODEL Helena Greyhorse at Models 1 MAKE-UP ARTIST Liz Martins at Eighteen Management using MAC Cosmetics HAIR STYLIST Ken O’Rouke, brand ambassador for Charles Worthington FASHION ASSISTANT Lowri Jones WITH THANKS TO The Lanesborough hotel, Hyde Park Corner, Belgravia, SW1 oetkercollection.com reservations@lanesborough.com

STOCKISTS brownsfashion.com christianlouboutin.com farfetch.com fenwick.co.uk hermes.com jimmychoo.com lockhatters.co.uk matchesfashion.com maxmara.com mulberry.com net-a-porter.com nicholaskirkwood.com selfridges.com stylebop.com

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SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

LACOSTE

MARCOS LUENGO

EMILIO PUCCI

FENDI

STYLE

T H E WAT C H L I S T THE ROW

NINA RICCI

DOLCE & GABBANA

DIOR

ELIE SAAB

It’s time to coordinate your look with these colourful timepieces

TOP ROW, LEFT TO RIGHT: LOUIS VUITTON Tambour Slim 39mm, £2,470; louisvuitton.com. CARTIER Tank Anglaise medium in rhodium-finish 18ct white gold with diamonds, £27,000; harrods.com. BLANCPAIN 3485F-1141-97B Chronographe Flyback, £10,230; blancpain.com. CHOPARD Happy Diamonds Icons in 18ct rose gold and diamonds, £6,580; chopard.com. OMEGA Ladymatic co-axial 34mm in steel with mother-of-pearl dial, £5,310; omegawatches.com.

BOTTOM ROW, LEFT TO RIGHT: JAEGER-LECOULTRE Rendez-Vous Night & Day in steel with diamonds, £11,400; jaeger-lecoultre.com. PIAGET Altiplano 40mm in 18ct rose gold, £22,400; piaget.com. ROLEX Day-Date 36mm in yellow gold, £16,250; thewatchgallery.com. PATEK PHILIPPE 4897R Calatrava in rose gold with diamonds, £21,970; patek.com. CHANEL J12-365 in white ceramic and steel, £3,900; chanel.com.

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STYLE

Over the Rainbow Dress yourself in full technicolour glory with dazzling gems in every shade Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

STEPHEN WEBSTER Magnipheasant Feathers collar, £68,000; stephenwebster.com ROBINSON PELHAM Rainbow Tron diamond and sapphire ring, £8,365; robinsonpelham.com

CHOPARD Imperiale Joaillerie sapphire watch, £535,000; chopard.com

CLAUDIA ODDI Rainbow Sunray ear cuff, £4,188; modaoperandi.com

NOOR FARES Rhombus ring, £3,600; net-a-porter.com

GUCCI Running G stud earrings, £1,220; luisaviaroma.com

SOLANGE AZAGURY-PARTRIDGE Diamonds and sapphire earrings, POA; solange.co.uk

VENYX Rainbow Orbit ring, POA; venyxworld.com

CLAUDIA ODDI Multi-rainbow Lightning earrings, £8,526; modaoperandi.com

SOLANGE AZAGURY-PARTRIDGE Black opal, diamond and pink sapphire ring; POA; solange.co.uk

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Amber Rose

complimentary delivery at shayandblue.com

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BEAUTY The

& WELLNESS

News and reviews

At-home treatments Rosemary Ferguson on finding balance Anti-age your hair

On the Road The glow of city lights at twilight, the shimmering green-grey sea on a cloudy day, the burnt orange of a desert sunset – Chanel took inspiration from a California road trip for its autumn/winter Travel Diary make-up collection, fronted by Kristen Stewart, but the bold colours are also perfect for recreating this season’s trend for bright lips and Sixties eyes.

Chanel Travel Diary make-up collection, £20-52 chanel.com

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Beauty Notes Dramatic make-up, new skincare and non-toxic candles are autumn’s must-buys Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

PINK POWER

After 20 years of formulating beauty products for other brands, Colette Haydon, a French dermapharmacist, has created her own skincare line, LixirSkin. Featuring just six products, designed to be mixed and matched depending on your needs, the range is based around key, results-driven scientific ingredients such as retinol and vitamin C. LixirSkin, from £20, available at victoriahealth.com

Heaven Scent

Chanel’s first perfume for 15 years, Gabrielle launched this autumn to great fanfare and looks set to become a future classic. Inspired by Mademoiselle Gabrielle Chanel, perfumer Olivier Polge has composed an “abstract floral” scent based on a bouquet of white flowers, which includes ylang-ylang, jasmine, tuberose and orange blossom. £79 for 50ml; chanel.com

Make-Up

FELINE FINE Influenced by Golden Age film star glamour, Dolce & Gabbana’s AW17 make-up collection – masterminded by Pat McGrath – features Perfect Luminous liquid foundation (£38) for radiant skin, Glam liner (£27) for the signature feline flick eyes and Classic Cream (£37) lipstick for a red statement lip.

Dolce & Gabbana also has a major festive partnership with Harrods across fashion and beauty, with exclusive make-up and perfumes, plus product personalisation. harrods.com

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Skin Saviour

Beloved of beauty editors and often cited as the one product they couldn’t live without, Estée Lauder’s Advanced Night Repair is the anti-ageing serum that really works. Designed to work while you sleep, it acts on fine lines and dryness to give more youthful and radiant skin. An essential buy for winter.

Advanced Night Repair, £52; esteelauder.co.uk

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS

Top 8

Natural Candles Light up your life with soy and beeswax

OH MAN

New from Nars is this limited-edition, 23-piece make-up line inspired by Surrealist photographer Man Ray. From the bold-coloured lip and eye pencils to the shiny gold bag embossed with his iconic lips (pictured), the Nars x Man Ray collection is a work of art.

From £17; narscosmetics.co.uk

The Final Countdown The original beauty advent calendar is back at the end of October and is stocked with the most popular products from Liberty’s beauty hall, worth over £500. With a mix of 15 full-sized products and deluxe travel samples, each day’s drawer reveals a treat from cult brands such as a Byredo hand cream, a Le Labo perfume and a Diptyque candle.

With 33 sold every minute, it's the fastest-selling and most successful product in the company’s 147-year history – be quick before they’re all gone. £175; libertylondon.com

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SHAY & BLUE Atropa Belladonna natural wax, £35; shayandblue.com. CIRE TRUDON Spiritus Sancti incense scented vegetable wax, £70; trudon.com.

JO WOOD ORGANICS Amka natural soy wax, £44; jowoodorganics.com. IIA Jasmine flower eco-soya and beeswax, £40; ila-spa.com. NEOM ORGANICS Tranquillity Intensive Skin Treatment soybean oil candle, £36; net-a-porter.com. ELLIS BROOKLYN Pseudonym scented soy wax, £48; net-a-porter.com. LAFCO Marine scented soy, £46; net-a-porter.com. KISS THE MOON Love aromatherapy soy with rose and frankincense, £38; kissthemoon.com.

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS

The

Dark Side

As the nights draw in, embrace the season’s penchant for purple and midnight hues with products to see you through the witching hour Compiled by CHARLOTTE ADSETT

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Rouge Louboutin nail varnish, £38, selfridges.com; ACQUA DI PARMA Large amber cube candle, £70, acquadiparma.com; SHISEIDO Future Solution LX night cream, £275, harrods.com; MAC Shadowy Lady eye shadow, £13.50, selfridges.com; L’ORÉAL PARIS x BALMAIN Color Riche dark purple lipstick, loreal.com; KEIKO MECHERI Loukhoum eau de parfum, 50ml, £103, libertylondon.com; SHOW BEAUTY Premiere finishing spray, £30, harveynichols.com; TOM FORD Velvet Orchid hydrating emulsion, 150ml, £38, harrods.com; GUERLAIN Orchidée Impériale eye serum, £151, selfridges.com; ORIBE Côte d’Azur Luminous hair & body oil, 100ml £65, spacenk.com; VOTARY, Intense night oil, £135, net-a-porter.com; KIEHL’S Midnight Recovery eye cream, £26, kiehls.co.uk

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS

THE HAIR HEROES

BLOW LTD

THE SPARKLE FAIRY

THE SMILE SAVIOUR

THE BEAUTY CONCIERGE

Appointments from 7am-9pm blowltd.com

Appointments from 7am-9pm thesparklefairy.co.uk

Appointments 24 hours a day glowandry.com

When time is of the essence, blow LTD can get you red-carpet-ready in less than an hour, all without leaving your house or office. With a simple online make-up and blow dry menu, it’s easy to pick the hair or beauty look you need, whether you want a glossy daytime mane or a Brigitte Bardotinspired beehive and smoky eye for the evening.

Nail services are also available and it’s possible to book two therapists at the same time should you want the full head-to-toe service. Stylists bring all the equipment and work with dry hair – ideal if you discover halfway through the working day that you have to stand in at an important event that evening. There’s a handy app that makes booking seamless, and many customers are such fans that they use it for twice-weekly blow drys.

The first of its kind, The Sparkle Fairy, aka Jo Kennedy, is a mobile on-demand dental hygienist. With more that 14 years’ experience, Jo takes the hassle and fear out of going to the dentist. Appearing at your door with everything she needs to do her magic, including a reclining chair and sterilised tools, we recommend The Sparkle Fairy as the most relaxing, convenient and effective dental service we’ve ever experienced. The latest offering is a Diamond Clean service (£100) that, as well as a full hygienist appointment, includes Prophy-Jet air polishing that removes staining and brightens your teeth to the whitest shade naturally possible. Jo also offers services for children and families, and office visits.

While working as the lifestyle manager at Quintessentially Concierge, Glow&Dry’s founder Scarlett Gray noticed a lack of companies offering top-level make-up, hair and fashion stylists and so decided to curate a little black book of the best in the business. Membership provides you with your own dedicated account director, available 24/7, who will book whatever you need, wherever in the world you need it. Crucially, you can specify a stylist of your choosing, with profiles and portfolios available to browse online. There’s an Elite tier of membership that can connect you to the A-list’s go-to hair and beauty teams, and even a luxury travel service, ensuring members not only travel in style with private jet and yacht charter partners, but that preferred stylists are available worldwide.

GLOW&DRY

BEAUTY ON DEMAND

The

DREAM TEAM

From your London office to your holiday villa, beauty and wellness treatments need to fit into today’s hectic, global lifestyles. Here are our favourite services, available at the tap of a button

THE DE-STRESSER

THE GLOBE-TROTTER

THE ALL-IN-ONE

RUUBY

URBAN MASSAGE

Appointments 24 hours a day perfect10mobilebeauty.co.uk

Appointments from 6am-11pm ruuby.com

Appointments from 8am-11.30pm urbanmassage.com

This is the elite division of the Perfect 10 mobile beauty group. Designed to offer a personalised and confidential service, Black Label members are promised access to a beauty therapist within 24 hours, who can then travel with you if required.

There are beauty and wellness services for both women and men, which include makeovers, massage, personal training and physiotherapy, and the therapists really deliver on bringing a spa-like experience into your home – or hotel, yacht or even private jet – all for an annual membership fee of £250. The latest launch, in collaboration with personal beauty shopping service MyShowcase, offers members a chance to shop products from Aromatherapy Associates, Neom and Face Stockholm.

This award-winning at-home beauty booking service has a network of over 200 vetted, experienced beauty experts, including industry insiders such as Anna Wintour’s hair stylist and Suki Waterhouse’s make-up artist, so you know that quality is assured. The extensive menu ranges from the usual make-up, hair, massage, facials, waxing and spray tanning to more niche services including vitamin drips, botox and fillers. There are also bespoke wellness programmes: choose from juice cleanse deliveries, hair and skin tissue mineral analysis with a resident nutritionist, on-demand personal training sessions and naturopathy consultations.

The result is an app that really can give you a total makeover, from the inside out.

Whether you are recovering from injury, suffering from knots or just in desperate need of relaxation, an Urban Massage therapist can be at your door within a hour to fix the problem. The menu includes deep tissue, Swedish, Thai, sports, pregnancy, anti-cellulite, lymphatic drainage and reflexology, and even a couple’s massage for a date night treat.

Search therapists by specialism or availability in your area – and you can view the user ratings of each therapist on their individual profile. Professional and experienced therapists arrive with a super comfortable bed, a choice of oils, candles and relaxing music. A massage where you can simply roll into bed straight afterwards? That’s our idea of heaven.

PERFECT 10 BLACK LABEL

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We invite you to discover The Wellness Clinic at Harrods. With 14 treatment rooms in an elegant 10,500sq ft space, it offers an integrated approach to wellbeing and beauty, hosting world-renowned experts in aesthetics, wellness and dermatology.

Treatments include: face and body aesthetics from PHI Clinic, led by Dr Tapan Patel; a full-body cryotherapy chamber with 111Cryo, led by Dr Yannis Alexandrides; nutritional and fitness advice from Louise Parker; mindfulness practices with Terrence the Teacher; VitaDrips from The Elixir Clinic; and bespoke skincare solutions from Gen Identity – each designed with you in mind.

For more information or to book an appointment at The Wellness Clinic, call +44 (0)20 7225 5678, email thewellnessclinic@harrods.com or visit us in-store on the Fourth Floor.

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FOREVER

YOUNG We age-proof our faces with serums and creams and our bodies with matcha and pilates, but what about our hair? Lacklustre locks add years to your appearance, so here’s how to turn back the clock Words SAMANTHA SILVER

A

t a dinner party the other day, a friend of mine was bemoaning her new hair colour. After a particularly heavy bout of bleach over the summer had left her hair feeling straw-like and broken, she had decided to go over to the dark side in the quest for youthful, glossy locks. But now she no longer felt like ‘her’; worse, she felt old.

Hair has the power to make or break our day, our mood and, not to be dramatic, our lives. A study published by Yale University proved a bad hair day made women feel worse about themselves and led them to question their decisions. No wonder we spend £191 million a year trying to guarantee as many good hair days as possible. Yet while we have embraced anti-ageing solutions with vigour, our bathroom cabinets housing a skincare arsenal to rival the contents of our wardrobe, just a few centimetres north of our face is one of the most neglected areas of our bodies – our hair. Often left to make do with a quick shampoo with whatever happens to be in the gym changing room, and blasted dry with the follicular equivalent of a hoover, are we actually doing anything to prevent our hair from getting old?

But our hair is dead, so it can’t actually age, I hear you say. “When we talk about hair ‘ageing’, it really means how hair deteriorates through wear and tear,” explains Elsa Forbes-White, creative director of Taylor Taylor London. Aged hair isn’t just hair that looks grey, it’s hair that increasingly looks ‘worn’, and the more we brush, blowdry and straighten it, the more frazzled it becomes. Diet, medication and hormonal surges also take their toll, leaving hair feeling dry and looking dull. Hair ‘ages’ in extended cycles, which is why it creeps up on you quite suddenly. “Like skin, hair changes colour and tone with age, losing pigment and luminosity,” says Sibi Bolan, creative colour consultant at Josh Wood Atelier. “Your hair could look great until suddenly, one day, it doesn’t.”

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Add environmental ageing caused by exposure to sun, central heating and pollution to the mix and it’s not surprising that some 20-year-old, city-living women have hair that looks – and feels – twice their age. Pollution has the same effect on the hair as it does on the skin. When toxic pollution builds up on hair, it damages the surface proteins, creating free radicals which fragment the structure of hair cells. Research published by the Federation of American Societies for Experimental Biology found that pollution-induced oxidative stress (a build-up of hydrogen peroxide) could trigger hair going grey. There is no cure for grey hair but by ensuring pollution doesn’t build up, you can stop accelerated ageing.

Take appropriate action: cleanse grime from the scalp with an antibacterial shampoo like Redken Clean Maniac Clean Touch Micellar shampoo and conditioner (£19 each) followed

by Rossano Ferretti Parma Vita Rejuvenating serum (£42), an antioxidant treatment that neutralises free radicals and renews cells.

If you’ve fallen victim to early onset greige (a few sporadic greys sprouting through your otherwise pigmented mane), don’t panic.

“At the first sign of greys people will go for an all-over permanent tint but this then locks you into a high-maintenance schedule of monthly visits, as you’ll get clear ‘roots’ which are ageing in themselves,” explains Sally Northwood, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley’s colourist. If greys do start to come through, use highlights or lowlights to blend them in. “Try a softer solution like comb-through colour, where we pick out the grey hairs,” Northwood advises. Even if greys aren’t a problem, you may have noticed that the general sheen of your colour has faded and looks dull and tarnished, like that of a weathered penny.

“In this case, glosses and all-over tints help to make the hair look healthier by adding shine and texture,” adds Northwood.

“All-over, matte, one-tone hair is probably the most ageing,” says balyage expert Jack Howard. “Overly highlighted hair looks oldfashioned and unflattering.” Melanie Smith, master colourist at Josh Wood Atelier, agrees.

“Harsh colours are ageing. Three shades lighter is the most flattering for your skin tone.” When visualising youthful hair, think about Adele; despite all of the backcombing and heat styling, her colour glows with such otherworldly warmth it’s as if someone is following her around with a light. “When we talk about ‘ageless colour’, it’s about building a colour and a sheen that lasts,” explains Josh

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS Wood, Redken Colour creative director.

“It’s about taking your natural tone and visibly enhancing it by mixing similar colours in complementary tones for a multi-dimensional effect.”

Wood suggests redheads should “go a little lighter” and blondes should keep the hairline lighter than the rest of the hair. Brunettes should “add shine. I use a freehand technique which allows for a seamless brunette with premium soft tones.”

Bolan suggests looking to Cindy Crawford for colour inspiration – by replacing the rich, heavy brown of her twenties with highlights and softer, tonal browns, she’s taken years off. Wood says the easiest way to keep your colour looking youthful is to up the condition.

“I ask my clients to do a mask once a week to keep the colour trapped in the hair shaft,” he says. A mask with a high oil content will help to recondition and repair – try the Kérastase Fusio-Dose HomeLab (£44), an exclusive at-home treatment that promises to return your hair to its virgin state. Hair gets finer as we age, so “the right colour and care products make hair look thicker and healthier,” explains Karine Jackson, whose salon is renowned for its eco-friendly, low PPD Organic Colour Systems, which is as close as allergy-free as hair colour comes.

Jackson suggests trying Organic Status Quo shampoo (£10.95) – we also like Oribe Gold Lust Repair and Restore shampoo (£139) – and swap your regular straightening irons for Ego Therapy by Ego Professional (£109). These use infrared light and pulsing ultrasound rather than dry heat to straighten and deliver hydration right into the core of the hair. Youthful looking hair can be yours.

LONDON’S BEST COLOURISTS JOSH WOOD

6 LANSDOWNE MEWS, HOLLAND PARK, W11

Known for: A colour master to whom the cool girls flock.

Anti-ageing tip: “Use a myriad of colours to create a bespoke, fla ering tone.”

joshwoodcolour.com

NICOLA CLARKE

JOHN FRIEDA, 58-9 MARGARET STREET, FITZROVIA, W1

Known for: Blonding the likes of Gwyneth, Madonna and Kate Winslet.

Anti-ageing tip: “Look a er your hair in between colouring appointments with Color Wow Coconut Cocktail (£22). It so ens the hair and keeps it looking healthy.”

johnfrieda.co.uk

KARINE JACKSON

24 LITCHFIELD ST, COVENT GARDEN, WC2

Known for: Trailblazing the organic colour movement in London.

Anti-ageing tip: “Going too light will wash you out and going too dark will make your skin look lined and heavy, so a bespoke colour is the only way to ensure the result you need.”

karinejackson.co.uk

ZOE ADAMS

TAYLOR TAYLOR LONDON, 309 PORTOBELLO ROAD, NOTTING HILL, W10 Known for: Fusing edge with elegance.

Anti-ageing tip: “Treat your haircare routine as you would your skincare routine: exfoliate your scalp, cleanse your roots and hydrate the tips with oils.

taylortaylorlondon.com

JACK HOWARD

PAUL EDMONDS, 217 BROMPTON ROAD, CHELSEA, SW3

Known for: e King of Balyage.

Anti-ageing tip: “Balyage: because it’s painted on freehand, your colourist can judge where to put the lights for the most fla ering result for your face.”

HAIRCARE HEROES

jackhoward.co.uk

AMY FISH

LARRY KING, 34-36 HARRINGTON ROAD, CHELSEA, SW7

Known for: e fashion editors’ secret weapon Anti-ageing tip: “Always make time for a conditioning treatment when you go for a blow-dry.”

larryking.co.uk

SALLY NORTHWOOD

GEORGE NORTHWOOD, 24 WELLS STREET, FITZROVIA, W1 KÉRASTASE Fusio-Dose HomeLab, £44 ORIBE Gold Lust Repair and Restore shampoo, £139 EGO PROFESSIONAL Ego Therapy, £109 ROSSANO FERRETTI Parma Vita Rejuvenating serum, £42 REDKEN Clean Maniac Clean Touch Micellar shampoo, £19

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Known for: Creating Rosie Huntington-Whiteley’s LA brand of blonde.

Anti-ageing tip: “Health is a sign of youth so keep hair as healthy as possible – trim split ends and keep it conditioned.”

georgenorthwood.com

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professional hair, care & styling www.balmainhair.com

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Interview

A FINE

BALANCE In the past decade Rosemary Ferguson has gone from party-hard model to wellness practitioner.

She reveals her secret to managing nutritional needs with a love of pink champagne Words ALEXANDRA JONES

R

osemary Ferguson’s story reads like a 1990s rock ‘n’ roll fairy tale: discovered by legendary photographer Corinne Day, aged just 15 (in McDonald’s, irony fans), she went on to become one of the most successful models of the time, gracing the covers of Vogue, i-D and The Face. Once the embodiment of grunge-glamour (she belonged to the Primrose Hill set that included Kate Moss and Sadie Frost), she has since retrained as a nutritionist and promotes her love of homeopathic living. Today, she lives with husband, Jake Chapman (one half of Turner Prize-nominated YBA duo The Chapman Brothers) and her three daughters in the Gloucestershire countryside. As well as turning even her most hardened of party pals (Moss included, we hear) on to the benefits of juicing, she runs a nutrition clinic in Harley Street where she helps to heal the capital’s burned-out professionals. It’s quite a turnaround in a relatively short space of time; she tells us why she did it.

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BEAUTY & WELLNESS

Yes, loads. Particularly the ‘clean, green’ food trend. I hate any form of extreme eating. And this one puts a huge amount of pressure on people because it’s almost impossible to go through a whole busy day eating ‘clean’ – whatever that means.

And also, life is for living, it’s not just about chasing this all-kale holy grail.

LEONARDO BORNATI

What made you decide to change direction from modelling to nutrition?

I had my second and third children very close together and the chance of going back to modelling was looking less likely – in a lot of ways it’s a career with a time cap. I thought, ‘you know what? I’m 32, I want to do something that I can carry on doing into old age.’ I’d grown up around complementary medicine, so good food and what it can do for you had always been in my psyche. Plus I’m a big believer in trying to get away with the naughty stuff – like going out and then healing yourself by eating well.

When did you most need healing? And did you discover any secret remedies?

Oh there were many, many times. I think the shows were always tough on the body.

[During fashion weeks] I’d be working from 7am to 2am. It takes its toll. That’s really when I became a fan of juicing – it’s a quick way of getting a lot of nutrients in. Nowadays when I go to a show, I realise that the organisers are really aware of looking after the girls. There’s good, nutritious food on hand because they know that these girls are working 19-hour days.

Back then – we’re talking midto late-1990s – it’s not like they weren’t looking after us, it was just done in a different way. After I came across juices in New York, I’d keep them to hand at those times, or after a big night out. Vitamin C is good for a hangover, don’t you know.

Who inspired your interest in alternative medicine?

My granny Mary was one of the first people in the country to open a health food shop. She was an amazing woman – even now that slightly medicinal smell [of health food shops] takes me straight back to her. My mum, Harriet, was really quite naughty when it came to food – she’s a cake eater. But it gave me a really balanced attitude.

As a nutritionist, are there any wellbeing trends that you really don’t agree with?

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You live in Gloucestershire now but when you’re in London do you stick to healthier haunts?

No! There are lots of little pubs I like. And I love J Sheekey; it’s an old one but a good one. I’ve been going there for 20 years probably. I think the first time I went was for a friend’s birthday – there were about eight of us drinking pink champagne. I remember that everyone was a bit over The Ivy so we went to J Sheekey instead.

I love that! ‘We’re over The Ivy, let’s go to its sister restaurant for seafood.’ We all got into oysters… yes, it was all oysters and pink champagne, so we felt very glamorous. I still have a glass of pink champagne when I go now.

‘Juice’ by Rosemary Ferguson (Ebury Press) is available now

L

Rosemary's

O

N

D

O

N

GLOSSARY TOP SHOP Revital is an excellent chain of health food shops. They stock excellent brands and good, functional medicine supplements.

And their staff are really knowledgeable.

83 King’s Road, Chelsea, SW3; revital.co.uk

What about trends that you do like?

I think the 5:2 can be good but I see a lot of people who’ll do two days of starvation and then five days of bingeing. It doesn’t really work like that – those five days need to be packed with good, wholesome, nutritious food. And the two fast days can be lighter but you should still try and pack in the nutrients. Burgers and beers five nights a week followed by two days of green soups is not right.

What tips would you offer someone who wants to get their nutrition back on track?

I think a liquid day once a week, if you can, is a really great thing to do. That’s not to say that you can go back the next day and binge on rubbish. But a day where you do a soup, a smoothie and a juice – it’s a very simple way to give your gut a rest.

THEGLOSSARYMAGAZINE.COM

FAVOURITE WORKOUT The strongman classes at The Foundry are not for the faint-hearted – 45 minutes of flipping tractor tyres and wielding sledgehammers doesn’t sound much ` fun but I see the results.

Beaufoy Walk, Vauxhall, SE11 and 227 City Road, Shoreditch, EC1; foundryfit.com BEAUTY INDULGENCE I am rubbish at going for facials and things like that – I just never really think about it.

But I booked into Face Place in the Sense Spa at Rosewood London and got the best facial I have ever had.

252 High Holborn, Holborn, WC1; rosewoodhotels.com HEALTHY LUNCH SPOT I'm a big fan of Daylesford. It is a brilliant place to go if you need pure, healthy food that doesn’t feel like you are being denied a proper hearty lunch. The food always tastes great, as do the juices, but if you want to indulge they serve booze as well.

6-8 Blandford Street, Marylebone, W1; daylesford.com BEST JUICE I know a thing or two about juices and Raw Press use wonderful ingredients. Their attitude is really straightforward and they want to share their knowledge with anyone who is interested – I love that ethos.

32 Dover Street, Mayfair, W1 and 3 Ellis Street, Chelsea, SW1; rawpress.co

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CREATEVICTORIA.COM #novafood @createvictoria

Discover London’s most exciting new culinary destination, with 17 innovative restaurants and outdoor seating in a stunning public realm.

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FOOD & The

DRINK

Tasting notes Mex appeal Monica Galett’s next chapter In-store dining

Bel of the Ball It’s back. It’s bigger. Is it better? Find out when legendary members’ club Annabel’s reopens at the end of this year following a £55m revamp.

Located two doors down from the original site, it spans 26,000sq ft over four floors and is open 24 hours, with areas dedicated to wellness and work – and partying, of course.

46 Berkeley Square annabels.co.uk

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Tasting Notes This season puts festivals, food halls and unusual fragrances on the menu Compiled by LAURA ARCHER

A YEAR TO REMEMBER

Moëtt & Chandon’s Grand Vintage 2009 has just been released – the first with new brand ambassador, Michelin-starred-chef Jason Atherton. Unusually, pinot noir dominates, making for a wine that is nicely weighted. e rosé, with its cherry and apple notes, is particularly good paired with duck and wagyu beef.

Blanc £47, Rosé £60 moet.com

LET’S BE FRIENDS

Simply scandalous Penhaligon’s Portraits family of scents are brought to life through food this autumn in collaboration with the Punch Room at the London Edition. The hotel’s ‘Scandal Water’ afternoon tea, named after the 19th-century slang for a cup of tea, now includes the Monsieur Beauregard, which pairs green and jasmine tea with cider punch, and the Ruthless Countess Dorothea, featuring vanilla tea with Jamaican flower punch. editionhotels.com/london

Visit Quo Vadis this autumn and you’ll be in good company, thanks to the new season of Quo Vadis & Friends, which sees the restaurant host a series of guest chefs. On 18 October enjoy ‘5 Easy Pieces’, a dream team of Jackson Boxer (Brunswick House and Chess Club), Merlin LabronJohnson (Portland and Clipstone), Tim Spedding (ex-Clove Club and P.Franco) and James Lowe (Lyle’s), while and Fergus and Margot Henderson take to the kitchen on 8 November. quovadissoho.co.uk

Cookbook

RECIPES FOR SUCCESS If you could dine at Claridge’s every night, why wouldn’t you? Well, now you can – sort of. The first ever Claridge’s cookbook has just launched, featuring recipes from across the hotel’s famed bars and restaurants, from chicken pie and venison Wellington to cocktails and hot chocolate. There are also tips on entertaining for 100 and hosting Christmas lunch. Unfortunately, you’re responsible for the washing up.

‘Claridge’s: The Cookbook’ by Martyn Nail and Meredith Erikson (Octopus Books); claridges.co.uk

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TASTE MAKERS The world’s greatest culinary capital is lauded in style every October with the month-long London Restaurant Festival.

There are gourmet odysseys, restauranthopping tours, chefs popping up here and there, and special tasting menus throughout town. A few lucky people will be able to make a weekend of it at Andaz London with Michele Roux Jr (14-15 October) or Atul Kochhar (28-29 October). londonrestaurantfestival.com

FLAVOUR SENSATION Opening this November at The Hoxton Basement is the world’s first flavour gallery. What’s that, you may well ask. It’s billed as a new way to experience art, where you are actively encouraged to engage with the work, not just touching it but smelling and tasting it. It’s the brainchild of Smith & Sinclair, whose previous hit projects include alcoholic sweets and popups at Google and The Sanderson.

9 November-17 December; designmynight.com

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FOOD & DRINK

Top 5

New Openings Our dining wish list just got longer…

RAMBLA

64 Dean Street, Soho, W1D Catalan cuisine is the star here, with the menu divided into raw/cured, seafood and mountains. ramblalondon.com

DUDDELL’S

St Thomas Street, London Bridge, SE1 Hong Kong’s two-Michelin-starred restaurant and art space opens its first outpost this November. duddells.co

BOMBAY BUSTLE

29 Maddox Street, Mayfair, W1S Mumbai street food at its finest arrives this November from the team behind Michelinstarred Jamavar. bombaybustle.com

Halls of Fame It’s Harrods, but not as you know it. This November we finally get a glimpse of progress in the four-year redevelopment of the store’s Food Halls. The first part of the reveal is the Roastery and Bake Hall, which brings the behind-the-scenes action to the forefront, with customers encouraged to smell and taste. The look is vintage Harrods, with the Grade II*-listed rooms returned to their 1925 size and shape, and period features exposed and restored.

The coffee roaster is now housed in a glass room so that customers can view the process, the

PASTAIO

19 Ganton Street, Soho, W1F Stevie Parle’s restaurant empire expands apace with this Tom Dixon-designed pasta joint. pastaio.london

bakers themselves will be kneading away on the shop floor for the first time, and there’s a tea tailor who can create bespoke blends. At the centre is a new bar (above) with an all-day menu created from the halls’ offerings – start the day with the new Knightsbridge coffee blend and finish it with an espresso martini. harrods.com

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AULIS

Central London venue Be the first to try Simon Rogan’s test dishes at this secret eight-seater chef’s table. simonrogan.co.uk

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FASHION BITES BACK Today’s in-store restaurants are becoming dining destinations in their own right as brands look to entice customers to linger longer. Here are our favourites Words LAURA ARCHER

HARRODS

GALVIN DEMOISELLE

87-135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, SW1 The Michelin-starred Galvin brothers are known for their elegant French cooking and their bistro on the fourth floor of Harrods is no exception. Galvin Demoiselle serves Gallic classics such as duck rillettes with celeriac remoulade to start and tarte tatin with crème Normande for dessert, but we love the chic spin on comfort dishes – fish and chips features deep-fried monkfish goujons and a humble club sandwich is made from lobster and smoked salmon. Délicieux. harrods.com ROSE BAKERY

BOND STREET KITCHEN

DOVER STREET MARKET

18-22 Haymarket, St James’s, SW1 The comfort food served up at Rose Bakery belies this cafe’s serious fashion credentials. Founded by Rose Carrarini, sister of Comme des Garçons president Adrian Joffe, and her husband Jean-Charles, it first launched in the French capital and promptly wooed Parisians with its homely cakes, quiches, salads and soups. Having proved a similar hit with the London fashion crowd in Dover Street Market, Rose Bakery moved with the store to its new home on Haymarket and now occupies a light-filled third-floor space. doverstreetmarket.com

FENWICK

63 New Bond Street, Mayfair, W1 Head chef Jamie Draper, formerly of Roux at the Landau, now presides

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over Bond Street Kitchen located on the second floor of Fenwick.

The achingly elegant room is open from breakfast to dinner, serving salads, sandwiches, sharing plates and seasonal mains. fenwick.co.uk

RALPH LAUREN

173 Regent Street, Mayfair, W1 Ralph Lauren’s Polo Bar in Manhattan is the clear influence behind Ralph’s Coffee & Bar next to the brand’s Mayfair flagship, with its leather armchairs, dark wood panelling and clubby atmosphere. The bar serves a custom-made blend of coffee while cocktails have a distinctly Mad Men vibe – Old Fashioneds, autumn punch, various gin sours and a ‘smoking jacket’ concoction of malt blend, single malt, ginger honey syrup and lemon. Dishes such as a New England lobster roll, clam chowder and cobb salad reinforce the all-American feel. ralphlauren.co.uk

SELFRIDGES

400 Oxford Street, Mayfair, W1 A destination department store deserves a destination restaurant and Selfridges has several. Clean eating sisters Hemsley + Hemsley launched their first ever all-day cafe within the store’s third-floor Body Studio last year, where you can grab a matcha latte and a bowl of coconut buckwheat porridge or call in after work for a glass of biodynamic wine and a feta and black bean burger.

RALPH'S

On the surface The Fount bar, surrounded by designer handbags in the accessories hall, is no less virtuous, with its 16 different types of water and selection of tisanes and botanical brews.

But with the world’s leading mixologist at the helm – Ryan Chetiyawardana aka Mr Lyan – you can also expect some decidedly decadent cocktails.

New this autumn is Il Tetto, which has just taken up a oneyear residency on the Selfridges rooftop. From the terracotta pots to the traditional pizza oven, It Tetto brings a little bit of Italy to Oxford Street. The menu offers Venetian small plates such as air-dried cod with grilled polenta and charred roast pepper sauce, while hearty pasta dishes include tortelli filled with pumpkin, robiola fondue and crispy sage, and there’s a selection of ‘hot-tails’ to warm the cockles when the British winter reminds you that you’re not, in fact, basking on a Tuscan terrace. selfridges.com

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FOOD & DRINK

IL TETTO

THE FOUNT

WALLPAPER* BAR & KITCHEN THOMAS’S

in Vigo Street if you want to avoid trenchcoat temptation. burberry.com

FORTNUM & MASON

BURBERRY

5 Vigo Street, Mayfair, W1 Named after Burberry’s founder, Thomas’s is a smart all-day brasserie located within the brand’s flagship Regent Street store.

Naturally, the emphasis is on best of British so expect London cure smoked salmon, teacakes and crumpets fresh from the Aga, Isle of White tomatoes, Sutton Hoo chickens and seasonal specials like a classic shepherd’s pie. Access is through the store itself or via the separate entrance

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181 Piccadilly, St James’s, W1 You know you’re going to get more than soup and a sandwich in the world’s most famous food store and sure enough Fortnum’s delivers.

Whilst perhaps most noted for its award-winning afternoon tea in the sophisticated Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon, we love The Gallery, where the menus are comprised of the wares on offer in the food hall. Even better, Fortnum’s has just teamed up with Angela Hartnett to offer her exclusive Cafe Murano pasta and sauces for customers to buy in the food hall or sample in The Gallery. fortnumandmason.com

HARVEY NICHOLS

109-125 Knightsbridge, SW1 The Fifth Floor cafe remains a perennial favourite but Harvey Nichols also likes to innovate with its in-store dining options – we’ve

had bars by Perrier-Jouët bar and Grey Goose, and last year saw the launch of the Wallpaper* Bar and Kitchen, created in conjunction with the design magazine. The cocktail list features favourites from the World’s 50 Best Bars, and there are craft beers, pressed juices and a small but perfectly formed selection of sandwiches and salads. Soho steak joint Zelman Meats has also opened here to cater for Knightsbridge’s carnivores.

Two types of Wagyu – Chilean and Japanese – are available alongside smoked short rib, fillet and picanha, complemented by a mercifully veg-heavy list of sides. harveynichols.com

hail from East London hot spot Bistrotheque. The result is an all-day dining destination that scores on both style and substance, and there’s a heated terrace to keep the al fresco lifestyle going year-round. aprilscafe.com APRIL’S CAFE

BOUTIQUE 1

127-128 Sloane Street, Chelsea, SW1 From the green marble counter to the cherry wood tables, House of Holland cushions and plant-lined shelves, April’s Cafe looks every inch the chic Chelsea stalwart, but the masterminds behind it actually

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Mexican

WAVE BREDDOS TACOS

From Unesco listings to jungle pop-ups, Mexico’s cuisine is having a moment in the global spotlight.

Here’s where to discover it in London Words LAURA ARCHER

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FOOD & DRINK

Gloopy cheese, insipid guacamole and soggy tortillas – Mexican cuisine has been unfairly tarnished by years of cheap, tacky Tex-Mex establishments, all migraine-inducing decor and sombrero-wearing waiters. Yet traditional Mexican food is listed by Unesco at a cultural treasure, along with the cuisine of France. And when Noma, officially the world’s best restaurant, opens a pop-up on the Mexican coast, you know it’s time to think again.

With a menu featuring garlic-roasted grasshoppers atop a crisp tortilla, clam ceviche, suckling pig tacos and chocolate sorbet served in fiery pasilla peppers, Rene Redzepi reminded us of all that is special in Mexican food – slow-cooked meats, smoky spices, the tang of citrus and the hit of chilli. It’s a cuisine quickly finding favour with Londoners thanks to a clutch of recent high-profile openings with serious Mex appeal.

MARTHA ORTIZ

part to its quirky entrance and moody, candlelit vibe. The menu ranges from tacos to tostadas to grilled meats, washed down with plenty of mezcal. labodeganegra.com THE NEWCOMERS:

BREDDOS TACOS

THE CHEF:

MARTHA ORTIZ

Ella Canta, 1 Hamilton Place, Park Lane, Mayfair, W1 Ortiz’s restaurant in Mexico City, Dulce Patria, is in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants so it is with no small excitement that London has been awaiting her arrival since her restaurant in the Intercontinental Park Lane was announced. Ella Canta is her first permanent restaurant outside of her home country and she is determined to make it “feminine and colourful”.

Fittingly for an artist’s daughter – her mother is Martha Chapa – her plates are like paintings, full of colour and texture. David Collins Studio is behind the interiors, so Ella Canta looks set to take Mexican food to fine dining status. ellacanta.com THE TRAILBLAZER:

LA BODEGA NEGRA

9 Old Compton Street, Soho, W1 Hidden behind a sex shop façade in a Soho basement, this was the restaurant that made Mexican food cool when it arrived on the scene back in 2012, thanks in no small

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82 Goswell Road, Clerkenwell, EC1 Breddos started life as a stall in a car park before doing a series of residencies and popups. Its first permanent home opened late last year in Clerkenwell and combines Mexican flavours with British produce to rave reviews. A second branch is opening near Carnaby Street imminently, complete with margarita bar. breddostacos.com

CORAZON

29 Poland Street, Soho, W1 Meaning ‘heart’ in Spanish, Corazon is looking for love at first bite with its punchy flavours and generous portions. There are eight types of taco fillings to choose from, while a side of grilled sweetcorn dusted with chile powder and smothered in cheese is the perfect comfort food on a chilly autumn day. corazonlondon.com

EL PASTÓR

SANTO REMEDIO 6A Stoney Street, Southwark, SE1 Sam and Eddie Hart of Barrafina fame opened their taqueria on the edge of Borough Market late last year. The brothers certainly have the experience: Sam and his business partner Crispin Somerville ran a nightclub in Mexico City during the nineties and naughties, so look set to do for tacos what they did for tapas. You can’t book and the queues are long but it’s worth it for the corn tacos, made daily from scratch, topped with the likes of short rib and bone marrow, 24-hour marinated pork shoulder, and chargrilled stonebass. tacoselpastor.co.uk

THE REOPENING:

SANTO REMEDIO

152 Tooley Street, Southwark, SE1 When this much-loved Shoreditch restaurant fell victim to “circumstances beyond our control” just a few months after opening, a Kickstarter campaign saved the day and it reopened in its new home in Bermondsey at the start of September.

The modern, airy space is larger than the original, spread

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EL PASTOR

over two floors and featuring a downstairs cantina with a taco, mezcal and tequila bar, and an upstairs comedor (dining room), which opened in October and serves regional specialities from around Mexico. santoremedio.co.uk THE TEQUILA JOINT:

MESTIZO

103 Hampstead Road, Camden, NW1 This stalwart has been serving up authentic Mexican cuisine for over a decade but its real draw is its selection of tequila, estimated at around some 200 varieties. This is where the party’s at for special events like Cinqo de Mayo and Independence Day, and it also hosts a month-long margarita festival. london.mestizomx.com THE BOOK:

MEXICO, A CULINARY QUEST

by Hossein Amirsadeghi (Thames & Hudson), from all good bookshops A feast for the eyes, this new book takes readers on a journey through the culinary traditions of all 32 of Mexico’s states.

From creatives to chefs, 100 fascinating profiles bring the country’s cuisine and culture vividly to life.

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Interview

MOTHER SUPERIOR With the opening of her first restaurant, Mere, Monica Galetti is putting her own twist on the classic cooking she learned under Michele Roux Jr. She talks marmite, motherhood and Masterchef Words LAURA ARCHER

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M

ARMITE: WHO MAKES THE BEST – THE UK OR NEW ZEALAND? As you might expect from the Samoan-born, New Zealand-raised chef Monica Galetti, she is a devout fan of the Kiwi version and won’t hear a word against it. When I ask how she rates Vegemite, she pretends to be outraged. “No one eats Vegemite!” she says, throwing her hands up in mock horror. We are not, however, discussing breakfast condiments, but rather one of her signature ingredients, which appears on the menu in the restaurant she has just opened with her French sommelier husband, David.

The pair met working for Michele Roux Jr at the two-Michelin-starred La Gavroche.

Mere is the realisation of a long-held dream to open their own restaurant. “I was at a time in my career where I was frustrated and was feeling unfulfilled,” Galetti says. “When you’re in a place for such a long time you become very comfortable. There’s nothing wrong with that but you’re no longer true to yourself, you’re not pushing yourself to be more than you are. Also, once you decide you want to do something else it’s then about overcoming the fear that’s holding you back. Once you can make that decision and stay true to it, you can only but move forward. I was just very fortunate that I have David with me, I’m not doing it alone.”

Mere opened on Charlotte Street in March this year and the couple’s personalities are stamped all over it. “It’s your mark, it’s an extension of yourself – it’s your home, really,” Galetti says of her new venture. “And this one isn’t just mine, it’s my husband’s, so it’s about two people who’ve been in the industry many years. We like to think we have a pretty good understanding of what we want to show and offer people, and that’s warmth and great value and service and food.”

This sense of belonging extends to the marmite on the menu, which for Galetti is a taste of

home. “Marmite is something I love and I’ve always had it in my cooking,” she explains.

“It’s about understanding its flavour – mushroom, umami, a bit of soy. I use it in a very subtle way, like a Marmite mayonnaise in a classic BLT, which we did in summer.

I’m bringing these influences into the menu slowly. I didn’t want to suddenly knock people over with something they might not understand or might be standoffish about.” Other sentimental flavours she has referenced include a dessert based on her favourite New Zealand biscuit, a Toffeepop, served with a hokey-pokey ice cream; a Samoan-inspired banana cream pie; black curry, which reminds her of her mum and dad’s cooking; and her own version of rasel-hanout, the north African spice blend that she learned to make in Morocco. “These are things that make you as a person,” she says.

It’s not just the food at Mere that carries a personal touch. The decor is smart and classic in a London way, but look closer: the Samoan textiles on the walls were made by her artist cousin; the specially commissioned sculpture by Warren Kerley on the wall of the bar is inspired by champagne, Monica’s favourite drink; and the wine boxes that form the back wall are from the Galettis’

Mary – which is the name of Monica Galetti’s mother and also the French word for mother. The challenge of juggling motherhood with the demands of a career at the highest levels of cooking is something Galetti has been open about struggling with.

“I just wanted to raise my child myself and still be a chef in a two-Michelin kitchen,” she says. “But you’re expected to be there for long hours and it became more difficult the older Anais got. No one wants to employ a head chef who’s going to go part-time, especially at that level of cooking. I grew up with a mum who worked endlessly to support us so I know what it’s like to go without mum in the evenings and I never wanted my child to go through that.”

It’s the first time that her tough exterior cracks just a little. As a judge on the cookery TV talent show Masterchef she is known for being firm, even a little fierce, but in person a different side shines through. She is animated, passionate and cracks jokes regularly, and she clearly cares deeply about her team. “I enjoy having a laugh and joking around in the kitchen,” she says. “We put the music on and everyone’s dancing while they’re working. But at 11am the music’s off, we clean down and I’m adamant that everyone leaves the kitchen to go and eat. It’s important that they have a break – if they’re not on good form, you’re not going to get good food.”

Training the staff has been one of her top priorities since opening. “We put our team through an intense period of training to get them to where we want the restaurant to be and I think we’re there,” she reflects. “I’m a bit of a control freak and there’s always room to improve but it was worth the tough pre-opening months. We all had to come together with our new surroundings. And it was about trying to get our vision across to our staff members in a way that made them enjoy it as much as we do. I don’t believe you can casually say to someone, ‘this is what we want’ and leave it at that, because if you don’t explain the underlying reasons why you want certain things served in a certain way, they’ll never understand it. So for us it’s vital that whenever I change a menu, for example, the front-of-house team tastes it. They’re the ones selling it, they need to understand it and have their own opinion about it. So for me all of this is integral to getting the restaurant working. And knowing that when I’m not here they can do it fine – that’s the big thing.”

With Galetti’s TV career going strong – in addition to Masterchef and Masterchef: The Professionals, she also has a new series, Amazing Hotels: Life Beyond the Lobby, with

“People are going to tear you down.

It’s the people who appreciate what you’ve done who matter"

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own cellar in France. There are decorative objects from their London home scattered around the restaurant, and even the bowls in which the chocolates are served are sourced

by Monica’s family in Samoa – an uncle was tasked with bringing 50 of them to the UK. She has, it turns out, quite a supply chain.

“Some friends of ours are arriving this week from New Zealand,” she says. “They asked if there was anything we wanted and I said, ‘how many jars of Marmite can you fit into your suitcase?’”

It’s a family affair throughout, down to the couple’s 10-year-old daughter, Anais, helping in the kitchen on Saturdays. “She works in the pastry section and also does any vegetable prep that’s needed,” Galetti says.

“She normally helps with the chocolate or she sets up the bread ready for service. But she hates popping peas.”

It’s appropriate, therefore, that the restaurant is called Mere – pronounced

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FOOD & DRINK LOBSTER

PIGEON

food critic Giles Coren – it’s important that she can rely on the restaurant to run smoothly in her absence. But fame is a double-edged sword. For every person interested in her food because of her considerable skill – you don’t last that long at Le Gavroche without serious talent – there are others poised to criticise her because she’s a TV chef. “Six months before opening it felt like this huge pressure, thinking that people would pull me apart and destroy me,” she confesses.

“But as it got closer to opening and going through the process of building a business, a restaurant, the training, the costings – I actually came to a realisation. People are going to tear you down – just turn a blind eye. It’s the people who appreciate what you’ve done who matter. Going through the sweat, the tears and risking my time with my child to put everything into this – [the reaction] became the least important thing.

I just focus on what happens behind this door. My husband tells me if things are bad.”

She doesn’t, she admits, read any press.

“If I was to wait until someone sent me their review, I don’t think I’d get out of bed in the morning,” she says, laughing. “Of course you want to do well and I was very nervous when we opened, but I rely on my husband and my team to know if it’s going well. Not everyone’s going to love what you do. You’ve got people who come here to be supportive. You also get people who come here and complain about the colour of the toilets. There are always going to be those who come looking for trouble. You can see as soon as they sit down that they’re not in it to have a good time. I’m fine with that and we try to deal with that.”

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Having her own restaurant has brought unexpected benefits, too. “I’ve really been enjoying coming out of the kitchen, meeting the customers and hearing what they have to say,” she says, almost sounding surprised.

“When I meet people who completely get what we’re about it means the world. I had a gentleman, for example, who came in and he said, ‘I have had such a stressful day and I opened this large door, walked into that bar, and just went ‘phew’.’ And that’s exactly what I want – as soon as you walk in, just forget all the worries that you have. When I go out with my husband and my daughter, I don’t want anything to bother me. I want to forget life for a few hours. And that’s what I hope to achieve here. That’s all it is – to make someone feel comfortable. It goes back to old-school hospitality.”

But of course you can’t leave a restaurant like La Gavroche without the inevitable question of Michelin stars. “I wouldn’t say I’m not interested but my focus is making this work,” she says, candidly. “There’s been so much pressure on us to get this off the ground and it’s only a few months old. Any awards that we may accumulate will happen because we’re doing something right as a team, as a business. I’ve been in the industry long enough to know chefs whose sole focus has been chasing Michelin stars and literally driving themselves mad over it. I’m at an age where I’ve got more to worry about. It would be welcome but I’m just enjoying this time.

I’m doing something amazing, it’s a great opportunity and I’m loving every moment.”

And with a warm hug goodbye, she’s back off to the kitchen to turn the music back up and dance with her team.

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Monica's

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GLOSSARY FAVOURITE RESTAURANT I love The Dairy in Clapham. Robin Gill has created something really special there. It’s got a great neighbourhood feel about it and a brilliant tasting menu.

15 The Pavement, Clapham, SW4; the-dairy.co.uk TOP SHOP Paul Costelloe – I love it all.

Or Paule Ka, whose clothes are just so classic and elegant. paulcostelloe.com; pauleka.com BEST BAR FOR A NIGHTCAP At the moment it’s the Mere bar, which is the only place I’ve been for a nightcap recently – working service hours doesn’t really allow for a party lifestyle. It’s got a really nice vibe, it’s very relaxed. David and I are both really proud of how it’s been designed and the drinks on offer.

74 Charlotte Street, Fitzrovia, W1; mere-restaurant.com MOST-LOVED MUSEUM OR GALLERY It’s got to be the Science Museum.

We always enjoy visiting there with our daughter. All the interactive stuff is brilliant and makes for a wonderful family day out.

Exhibition Road, Knightsbridge, SW7; sciencemuseum.org.uk FAVOURITE PLACE TO SOURCE FOOD Hmmm, there are so many to choose from we’re almost spoiled for choice. At Borough Market there’s a stand there that specialises in Jura produce from France, where David is from, and we often go there to buy Comte cheese and smoked sausage. There’s also a spice shop and a butcher’s that we visit for game.

8 Southwark Street, London Bridge, SE1; boroughmarket.org.uk

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TRAVEL New and noteworthy In the spotlight: Cape Town

Retreat yourself: Kamalaya

Spa Attraction Yes, that is a giant lobster floating on the azure waters of the Dhaalu Atoll in the Maldives. This striking structure is home to the Iridium Spa at The St Regis Vommuli Resort, and is the largest overwater spa in the country.

New this autumn is the Signature Legacy package that lets you ensconce yourself in those pampering pincers for four days of hydrotherapeutic bliss.

St Regis Vommuli Resort stregismaldives.com

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Travel Notes Langkawi goes luxe, there’s romance on the rails and we admire a rum do in China Compiled by LAURA ARCHER

New Openings

TREASURE ISLAND

SWEET DREAMS A former sugar mill surrounded by limestone karst peaks is the striking location for Alila’s new property in southern China, which opens at the end of October.

Alila Yangshou is on the Li River in Guilin, a dramatic region of bamboo forests and mountains. The resort is similarly impressive, with an underground spa carved from volcanic rocks, the old sugar dock framing the pool and an in-house rum distillery so you can raise a glass to the past while enjoying the very modern comforts. alilahotels.com

Langkawi’s luxury hotel scene gets a further boost this autumn with the arrival of Ritz-Carlton and a head-to-toe renovation for the Four Seasons. It’s the first resort in Malaysia for Ritz-Carlton and they’ve brought some serious design klout to the island. The resort is inspired by kampongs – local villages – and the spa’s floating cocoons resemble Malay fishing traps. The Four Seasons (pictured), meanwhile, has added family friendly two-bedroom beach villas, designed by hotel supremo Bill Bensley, and the island’s only saltwater pool as part of its refresh.

ritzcarlton.com; fourseasons.com

OUT OF AFRICA

Luxury safari lodges abound but joining the stampede for a prime spot in the jeep with a load of camera-toting tourists each morning is enough to take the sheen off most. Thank goodness, then, that Singita Sweni Lodge is back following its revamp.

Housing just six suites in 33,000 acres, this riverside hideaway has been reconfigured to make the most of game-viewing opportunities, with open-plan living and large decks. Our pick is the new pool suite (pictured) – it’s not just the animals who love a watering hole, after all.

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No place like Dome The future of holiday homes is clear: so clear, in fact, that you can see straight through the walls. The Dome is a bubbleshaped cottage that can pop up anywhere – beachside, lakefront, in forests or fields.

You can even customise them to fit in a four-poster bed or wet room. Try it out at Finn Lough in Northern Ireland.

finnlough.com

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T R AV E L

Notebooks

Write this way All Aboard

With Murder on the Orient Express in cinemas, the iconic train on which Agatha Christie’s mystery is set has a secret of its own.

Launching next spring are three double suites with private bathrooms, designed

by London-based Wimberly Interiors. It’s quite a change from the classic cabins with their bunk bed-style accommodation. Guests in the Grand Suites also enjoy free-flowing champagne and private dining. We think Poirot would approve. belmond.com

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From top left: CHRISTIAN LACROIX Voyage hardback journal, £40; libertylondon.com.

SLOANE STATIONERY Adventure notebook, £39; sloanestationery.com. RIFLE PAPER CO. Bon Voyage journal, £14.95; selfridges.com.

PAPIER, Travel Notes journal, £12.99; papier.com.

SMYTHSON Travels and Experiences Panama notebook, £45; smythson.com.

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Cape Town ALL

EYES

ON...

British by design but African in spirit, a dramatic new art gallery has given the city a fresh focus Words LAURA ARCHER

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T R AV E L

This page, clockwise from top centre: In the Midst of Chaos There is Opportunity by Mary Sibande, work by Marlene Steyn, Kendell Geers and Kudzanai Chiurai at Mocaa. Piece for the home by Latimer Living.

The pool, bar, bedrooms and lobby of The Silo Hotel, occupying the top floors of Mocaa.

A

s spring gives way to summer in the Mother City there’s one very big new reason you should visit.

A towering grain silo – once South Africa’s tallest building – overlooking the historic V&A Waterfront has been transformed into the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa (Mocaa) by British designer Thomas Heatherwick, and is being hailed as the African Tate Modern.

Nine floors of gallery space, centred around a soaring, cathedrallike atrium, have been carved out of the stone structure, making the building as much a work of art as the pieces it houses. Mocaa will focus on the 21st century, providing an important platform for contemporary African artists, with its permanent display is comprised of former Puma CEO Jochen Zeitz's private collection.

Occupying the top six floors of this extraordinary building is The Silo Hotel, part of The Royal Portfolio whose other properties include the penthouse at One&Only Cape Town and the luxury safari camp Royal Malewane. Heatherwick’s geometric ‘pillowed’ windows are the standout feature of each of the 28 rooms, bar and restaurants, with their sweeping views across Table Mountain, Lion’s Head and Signal Hill. Interiors are a riot of colour and texture in sharp contrast to the industrial brutalism of the building, and there are Insta-worthy vignettes around every corner – the bathtubs and rooftop pool in particular.

Elsewhere, Cape Town’s gastronomic scene continues to flourish – our pick of the recent new openings are Firefish, a smart seafood grill on the V&A Waterfront, and Pierino Penati on the second floor of Villa 47 on Bree Street, which sees the first Italian Michelin-starred chef set up in South Africa. Theo Penati’s grandfather opened the original Pierino Penati in Brianza, Italy, 70 years ago, and he aims to put a Cape Town twist on traditional Italian flavours.

Can’t make it to Cape Town? Bring South Africa to you with the UK launch of Latimer Living. The website sells a range of furniture and decorative accessories carefully curated by Jess Latimer, owner of dreamy beachside guesthouse Cape View Clifton, and also offers an interior design service. zeitzmocaa.museum; theroyalportfolio.com/the-silo; firefishrestaurant.co.za; villa47.co.za; latimerliving.com

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T R AV E L

Wanderlust

Great THE

ESCAPE Whether you want to recharge your batteries, reset your sleep patterns or detox, wellness Nirvana Kamalaya on Koh Samui has it all Words CHARLOTTE ADSETT

T

here comes a moment during my week-long stay at Kamalaya, the famed wellness retreat on the island of Koh Samui, when I realise that something fundamental has shifted within me. Not just physically but mentally, too. My body is relaxed and grounded, my senses are heightened. I feel connected to my surroundings and also myself in a way I’ve never experienced before.

I feel truly present, for perhaps the first time. “We help guests back to the baseline,” confirms Karina Stewart, who co-founded Kamalaya in 2005 with her husband John.

“The world needs wellness.” It certainly does, now more than ever, and those seeking physical balance and spiritual restoration will certainly find it at Kamalaya.

Sprawling over nine acres on the island’s southern tip, looking out across the Gulf of Thailand, a huge part of the resort’s healing energy comes from its unrivalled natural setting. Koh Samui has long been a centre for Buddhist worship and the resort is built around an ancient monk’s cave, in which guests are encouraged to spend some time in contemplation. A steep, jungle-clad hillside may not sound a likely

setting for a luxury retreat but the layout - courtesy of artist and architect Robert Powell - has been thoughtfully designed so that the resort works in harmony with the landscape. Another developer might have flattened the vegetation or levelled off the plot, but in the Stewarts’ protective hands trees have been left to grow out of buildings, boulders pop up in the middle of pathways and a natural stream winds

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its way down the slope. The thatched buildings, natural stones and timbers of the resort blend in to the surrounding jungle and the tropical gardens are a haven for birds and butterflies. The reception and restaurant are built on the crest of the hill, while the villas and rooms are dotted at different levels down the slope towards the private beach, affording each a sense of privacy. Not only does this mean that you can’t help but get a workout in every day (although there are lifts available should the incline prove too much), you also benefit from stunning views from every level of the resort - and there’s nothing like a birds-eye view for those seeking perspective in life.

All of this is entirely intentional on the part of John, a former yogi monk, and Karina, a Master of Traditional Chinese Medicine. The couple met in the Himalayas in the 1980s and combined their knowledge and experience to create a unique 360-degree approach to wellness, designed to soothe and nourish the soul as much as the body.“Kamalaya is a lifestyle that we want to live, that we actually live,” John says.

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people from around the world – as well as being the winner of countless travel awards, Kamalaya has the highest rate of repeat booking of any long-haul retreat at 45 per cent. Some 20 per cent of visitors return annually, many for several years running.

Kamalaya’s ethos is to use a blend of therapies and treatments from the East and the West - Ayurveda, Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM), naturopathy and homeopathy, plus state-of-the-art diagnostic technology for both physical and emotional restoration. “We take the best of ancient traditions and make them relevant and accessible,” says John. “All our wellness programs are holistic and sustainable,” Karina adds, “conveying lifestyle experiences to inspire, empower and motivate guests to continue their healing journey after they leave.”

To ensure a wholly bespoke approach, all guests complete a wellness consultation on arrival, which includes a ‘Body Bioimpendance Analysis’ assessment that electronically measures vitality at a cellular level. This isn’t as scary as it sounds – electrodes were attached to my fingertips and in less than a minute the results showed my body fat, hydration levels, muscle mass and basal metabolic

rate. There are 13 programmes to choose from under the core pillars of Stress and Burnout, Sleep Enhancement, Ideal Weight, Optimal Fitness, Detox, and Embracing Change. You can customise your programme to your needs and add in additional therapies.

My naturopath Amel and I decided upon Balance and Revitalise for my week-long stay – a deeply restorative p r o g r a m m e designed to destress, replenish depleted energy levels and address adrenal burnout.

TCM and Ayurveda are the cornerstones of the healing treatments and therapies at Kamalaya. The Wellness Centre is a labyrinth of cabins all set within different levels in the hills, where guests wander around the paths in white dressing gowns and slippers with serene expressions on their faces. I had, on average, two treatments a day, with the more restorative and relaxing session in the evening to help calm my nervous system. Every treatment aims to maximise the

“Every treatment aims to maximise the flow of prana, your vital life force"

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flow of prana (your vital life force). Energy healers and intuitive therapists with magic hands stimulate your meridians and restore your chakras in double-quick time. Traditional Asian therapies on the menu include Taoist Chi Nei Tsang, an intense abdominal massage that unblocks trapped energy and excavates emotional trauma – expect tears and extraordinary dreams; and Shirodhara, which relieves tension and clears the mind as hot oil is continuously poured on to your forehead (the third eye). As a fully paid-up advocate of TCM, I was pleased to see it included in my customised regime – Aaron Billington administered cupping and acupuncture with moxibustion (where mugwort leaves are lit and left to burn at the end of the needles to help circulation) with finesse.

Although the resort runs constantly at full capacity, you never see more than a

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T R AV E L G E T

H I P P Y

T H E

C H I C

The Holiday Edit

handful of people when strolling through the grounds or sitting by one of the pools.

Indeed, from my hilltop penthouse pool suite, which featured a large living room, semi-open bathroom and an outdoor terrace with a 25-metre infinity pool, I felt blissfully hidden away. The resort’s pace of life is deliberately slow – there are no televisions, Wi-Fi is provided for only 20 minutes a day and electronic devices are banished to rooms so that you can connect with nature – and yourself.

The main restaurant Soma, sitting at the top of the resort with views out across the sea, serves the most delicious healthy cuisine I’ve ever eaten. Following the principle that food is medicine, fresh, local, organic produce is teamed with world-class gourmet cooking that makes the nutrient-dense food sing. The menus change with the seasons and include extensive vegetarian and vegan options as well as seafood, chicken and lamb dishes.

Even though I wasn’t on the detox regime, the range of detox-labelled food – all free from gluten, dairy, nuts, meat or added sugar – was astonishingly flavoursome, so I mostly stuck to those foods for breakfast and lunch. From mung bean risotto in Thai sauce to pumpkin curry and sweet potato and coconut bread, there was zero sense of deprivation. Highlights from the à la carte dinner menu included seared cod with wasabi mash, ostrich loin and dairyfree chocolate mousse. Beer and wine were

available, but as I was in such a healthfocused frame of mind I decided to give alcohol a miss for the week.

Seven days of heavenly relaxation mixed with healing and transformation flew by in a haze of massages, yoga, reiki, acupuncture, therapy, meditation, sunbathing and reading books on the beach. During my stay I bumped into three people I knew from the magazine, PR and fashion industries in London – fellow stressed-out Type-As looking to get away from it all and recharge. Be it a reprieve from a stressful workload or a concerted effort to break unhealthy patterns, you are guaranteed to leave with an entirely different mindset. At the end of the week I left feeling lighter in both body and mind, and properly rested and rejuvenated. My top tip to see real results is to give yourself an absolute minimum of seven days at Kamalaya – 10 to 14 days if you can. As Oliver Stone wrote in the guest book after he checked in for a week and ended up staying for a month: “The days went by and the weight came off. Thanks for showing me the way spiritually and physically. I look to return soon to paradise.”

7 night Balance & Revitalise programme based on two people staying in a Sea View Villa or Superior Sea View Suite including accommodation, food and 14 treatments starts at £3,316 per person kamalaya.com

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MUZUNGU SISTERS Sicilian Pom Pom straw bag, £330; matchesfashion.com. KALEOS Watson sunglasses, £225; matchesfashion.com.

FIGUE Minette embroidered cotton dress, £595; net-a-porter.com. MISSONI Crochet-knit one-piece swimsuit, £612; modaoperandi.com. SENSI STUDIO Lady Ibiza straw hat, £185; net-a-porter.com.

GUISEPPE ZANOTTI Shooting Star sandals, £645; modaoperandi.com.

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HOME & The

INTERIORS

News and views Martin Kemp’s grand designs

Home comforts: fashion’s new frontier

On Cloud Nine Founded in 2014 by art director and designer Nosca Inc, 17 Patterns is a London-based company that works with contemporary artists, manipulating and restructuring specially commissioned works to create dynamic repeat wallpapers and fabrics, such as the swirling Beyond Nebulous range, pictured. The artworks themselves are also available to buy.

Beyond Nebulous wallpaper, £220 per roll.

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Design Notes Look to luxury wallpapers and Scandi design to dress your home this autumn

MADE OF STONE New York designer Anna Rabinowicz is renowned for her unique style that cleverly combines natural materials with cutting-edge design. Exhibit A: the ultra-chic Amare serving collection, which features lustrous cylindrical bases capped with elegant alabaster lids

From £325, williamandson.com

Compiled by CLAUDIA BAILLIE

BOOK CLUB

Japanese Dream

ROEL VAN TOUR

Yayoi Kusama’s 2016 exhibition ‘All the Eternal Love I Have for the Pumpkins’ at Victoria Miro Gallery was potentially the most Instagrammed show London has ever seen.

Now, enjoy the artist’s boundary-pushing work in this comprehensive and colourful book. £39.95, phaidon.com

New Opening

FULL HOUSE

With four floors showcasing the very best in Scandinavian design, the new Skandium Townhouse is a must-visit for devotees of pared-back Scandi style. The residential-meetsretail space features a series of rooms dressed with an expertly curated mix of modernist masterpieces and future classics.

Brands include Knoll, Carl Hansen & Søn, Flos, Fritz Hansen, Louis Poulsen, HAY, Kvadrat, Gubi, Muuto and more.

31 Thurloe Place, South Kensington, SW7; skandium.com

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BEST OF BRITISH

Named a er a 1946 V&A exhibition to promote industrial design, Britain Can Make it is a new south London store that stocks some first-rate examples of post-war and contemporary British furniture, such as this stunning Heron chair by Ernest Race. britaincanmakeit.com

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HOME & INTERIORS

Accessories

Coffee Pots

Wake up to autumn mornings with our edit

Trend

Wonder Walls

A cut above most other wallcoverings, de Gournay’s hand-painted papers are in a league of their own. The company, which has been specialising in luxurious handpainted wallpapers and fabrics for more than 30 years, uses skilled artists and original techniques to create traditional style papers from vibrant Chinoiserie to 19th-century French-style panoramas, as well as a host of contemporary designs.

‘Amazonia’ wallpaper from £1,035 per panel (915mm width); degournay.com

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MAIN IMAGE: STELTON Presses and vacuum jugs, stelton.com 1. TOM DIXON Brew cafetiere (part of a set), £300, tomdixon.net 2. STELTON EM Press, £59.95, stelton.com 3. MUUTO Push coffee maker, £89, amara.com 4. ALESSI Pulcina espresso maker, from £45, alessi.com 5. KINTO Brewer stand, £170, store.wallpaper.com

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Exuding European grandeur and urban glamour, discover a space that mirrors your sense of style. Visit Dubai this year and live the iconic Versace lifestyle in a cosmopolitan city that echoes the charms of tradition.

Explore our family, business, honeymoon and other stay offers at www.palazzoversace.ae/specialoffers

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HOME & INTERIORS

Interior inspiration:

Green with Envy

Malachite, emerald and deepest teal bring a jewel-like richness to your home Compiled by CLAUDIA BAILLIE

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP CENTRE: LITTLE GREENE Wall and panelling in Mid Azure Green 96, skirting in Royal Navy 257, from £42.00 for 2.5L Absolute matt emulsion; littlegreene.com. THE CONRAN SHOP Dalston pendant, £410; conranshop.co.uk. GEORGE SMITH Commune for George Smith Wing sofa in mohair velvet, £7,110; georgesmith.com. WILLIAM & SON Fazzoletto Opalino planter by Venini, £980; williamandson.com. BETHAN GRAY Nizwa cabinet by Bethan Gray for Shamsian, £10,000; bethangray.com. 17 PATTERNS Beyond Nebulous cushion, £135; yoox.com. COLE & SON Malachite wallpaper by Fornasetti, £90 per 10m roll; cole-and-son.com. THE SOFA & CHAIR COMPANY Theron chaise longue, from £2,364 plus fabric; thesofaandchair.co.uk. THE RUG COMPANY Calypso rug by Suzanne Sharpe, from £1,285/m2; therugcompany.com. L’OBJET Malachite dessert plate, £180 for a set of four; l’objet.com. SÉ Stay dining chair, £1,194; se-collections.com. NUDE Mr&Mrs night set carafe and glass, £59; nudeglass.com. GLAS ITALIA Liquefy tables, from £1,030; chaplins.co.uk. LOUIS POULSEN AJ lamp, £547; skandium.com.

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PREEN u

The dramatic florals from Preen’s AW17 collection have been transformed into eiderdowns and silk satin cushions, finished with embroidery, ruffles, beading and velvet trims. Not one for wallflowers. preenbythorntonbregazzi.com

DOLCE & GABBANA + SMEG p

There’s nothing sexy about small domestic appliances, but trust Dolce & Gabbana to inject some much-needed va va voom into the kitchen.

They have teamed up with fellow Italian brand Smeg on a range of colourful kitchenware, all made in Italy. Toasters, kettles, coffee machines and mixers are decorated with lemons, prickly pears and cherries, the colours reminiscent of the blue Sicilian sky and the fire of Mount Etna. smeguk.com

HAUTE HOUSE From the catwalk to the kitchen, fashion brands bring much-needed glamour to homeware WORDS LAURA ARCHER

V

ersace, Armani, Missoni, Diane von Furstenburg, Ralph Lauren, Bottega Veneta…these designers don’t just want to fill your wardrobe, they want to dress your whole home. Fashion brands have been dabbling in interiors for decades now, but far from being merely a pleasant diversion homeware has become big business. Gucci is the latest to get in on the act, with its debut Décor collection, launched in September, featuring cushions, chairs, tables and decorative objects emblazoned with beetles, bees, tigers and snakes.

Collaborations are also big news: previously we’ve seen Alexander Wang make furniture for Poltrona Frau, Raf Simons design fabrics for Kvadrat, Hermès work with B&B Italia, Jean Paul Gaultier has a line with Roche Bobois, and wallpaper specialists de Gournay have recently teamed up with Aquazzurra and Kate Moss on exclusive lines. The appeal is obvious – fashion brings glamour to the mundane and makes everyday objects exciting. Today there is very little separation between what a fashion brand makes for the catwalk and what it makes for the home – the fabrics, colours and general mood all come from the same inspiration.

Witness Dolce & Gabbana’s lemon-splashed prints transfer from sundresses to toasters and kettles, or Preen’s bold floral fantasia spanning everything from clothes to cushions.

And as maximalism makes a return, with dark heritage paints and patterned wallpapers taking centre stage in our homes once again. Banish the white space with our favourite recent launches.

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HOME & INTERIORS

ANGLEPOISE + PAUL SMITH p

Shine a new light on a design classic with Paul Smith’s take on the Anglepoise Type 75 lamp, created by Sir Kenneth Grange.

Featuring Paul Smith’s colour blocking, it comes in three sizes – mini, desk and giant floor lamp. anglepoise.com

THE RUG COMPANY pt

To mark its 20th anniversary, The Rug Company has invited noted artists to create bespoke designs for an exclusive capsule collection. From Alexander McQueen’s Chiaroscuro (above) to Vivienne Westwood’s Highland (left), the results have us floored. therugcompany.com

VISPRING + MISSONI q

This colourful collaboration between mattress masters Vispring and Missoni Home is the stuff sweet dreams are made of.

Featuring Missoni’s luxury fabrics and signature stripes, the three designs were made as part of Harrods’ Art Partnerships initiative earlier this year and were displayed at Decorex in September. vispring.com; harrods.com

LIBERTY + ANTHROPOLOGIE u

Heritage Liberty prints adorn everything from teapots and oven gloves to sofas, tables and chairs in this new partnership with Anthropologie, and it’s floral perfection. anthropologie.com

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Interview

The

INSIDER Interior designer Martin Kemp is the man with the midas touch whose humble outlook belies his starry portfolio Words LAURA ARCHER

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HOME & INTERIORS

A

s the go-to interior designer for the super-rich, from billionaire entrepreneurs to pop stars, penthouses to polo estates to private jets, you’d be forgiven for thinking that Martin Kemp would be somewhat grand in person. Maybe even a little snooty. But the softly spoken man in a simple white T-shirt and blue jeans who welcomes me into his slick office in a quiet backstreet in Victoria, gently shooing an excited dog out of the way, is anything but. “I’m a simple Welsh boy from a simple Welsh town,” he tells me. “If you’d said to me as a child that this is where I’d be sat today, my parents and I would have been speechless – and I would have been terrified.”

Kemp has the kind of glittering CV that most designers would be shouting about from the rooftops, with stints working for legendary Beverly Hills designer Barbara Barry in Los Angeles, seven years as creative director of Candy & Candy, responsible for high-profile projects including One Hyde Park, and now master of his own destiny with his eponymous design studio, established in 2012. But Kemp, it becomes clear, is not one for blowing his own trumpet. “It’s just what I do for a living,” he says. “It’s the same for nurses and doctors and street sweepers.

I don’t see myself as some clever, creative person who deserves an accolade – it’s just what I do. And I don’t do anything anywhere near as clever as a nurse or a doctor.”

Where Kemp’s expertise shines is in creating complete lifestyle solutions that go beyond a smart walkin wardrobe or a few fancy scatter cushions. Almost everything in a Martin Kemp design is bespoke, from £15,000 silk headboards to statement light installations. Only the highest quality materials are used – walnut, ebony, marble, lead crystal – and fine art is borrowed from galleries on a sale or return basis (sourcing a Picasso isn’t out of the question, thanks to Kemp’s contacts). He can even fill your garage with supercars, stock your fridge with the finest champagnes and unpack your belongings. Suffice to say, prices reach seven figures. “I like to talk about us as the Tom Ford of interior design,” Kemp explains. “You have to set your sights on a brand you relate to, or would like to

aspire to, and try and build your business along those lines. I have to be very careful about what projects we do. If we ever did a restaurant it would have to be sevenstar, and I’m not sure we’ll ever get to that. On commercial projects, we’re not asked to do sub-penthouse and we rarely do a two-bed on level four unless we’re doing the whole building.”

This highly selective approach means that Kemp’s name continues to be associated with only the very finest properties. In London, he has just finished the show apartment for the private residences at Ten Trinity Square, the redeveloped Grade II*-listed former Port of London Authority building in Tower Hill, which is also home to the capital’s first Four Seasons hotel. Sprawling over two floors, the 4,163sq ft, three-bedroom apartment is on the market for £18m.

Following hot on its heels is Clarges Mayfair, a collection of 34 apartments and a spa overlooking Green Park and Buckingham Palace, which Kemp’s studio has been working on for the past few

fashion, tailoring, shoe-making – so I wanted to make this development a little bit more raw, and weave in the subtle textures, patterns and prints of this industry. It’s done in a very subliminal way but hopefully it will impart at sense of Englishness.” This is particularly evident in the spa, which Kemp was keen to imbue with a real sense of place. “I didn’t want it to be one of those nondescript luxury spas that could be in New York or Kuala Lumpur,” he says. “When people see it in photographs I want them to know instantly that it is the spa in Clarges Mayfair.

With the developer, British Land, being British, us being British, and it being on Piccadilly, we all agreed to make something distinctly English. So we looked at the spas of Bath, Harrogate, Cheltenham and Tunbridge Wells for inspiration – the little details such as ceramic tile inlays, alabaster domes and curtaining.”

Kemp won the pitch for Clarges just a few months after founding his company, but again he is surprisingly humble about such an achievement. “They had heard my name and were curious so asked me to go and meet them,” he says.

“I recently found out that I won the pitch because they liked me as a person, and that’s what made me stand out above all the other designers. I’m really proud of that; my mother would have been proudest of that. I like to think that I’m a genuine person.”

Clearly others agree. In addition to his commercial work, Kemp has a number of private clients who amount to approximately 50 per cent of his business. They include the likes of Kylie Minogue – “she’s gorgeous, she’s a genuinely lovely person” – but he politely declines to mention anyone else. “We guard their confidentiality,” he explains.

“It can be very frustrating because there’s an awful lot of imagery that we’re not allowed to show. The chalet in the Alps that we did recently, for example, was for a very well-known family and I really want to promote it but I can’t.” This leads, he says, to a misconception that there is a standard Martin Kemp ‘look’. “The look that you might think there is comes out of the imagery that you see, but the imagery that you see is only what we’re allowed to show,” he says. “We cover everything from classical right through to ultra-modern, futuristic, space age. I could show you something that looks like a Star Wars set.

Images: Mathew Evans

“I like to talk about us as the Tom Ford of interior design. You have to set your sights on a brand you relate to and aspire to"

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years and will finish this Christmas. It has already hit the headlines with a price per square foot value of more than £5,000, which broke the record at the time in an area that’s no stranger to multiple zeroes. Interestingly, the development that subsequently beat that record was 77 Mayfair on South Audley Street, when the penthouse – designed by, you guessed it, Martin Kemp – sold for £26m, achieving an astonishing £7,000 per sq ft.

So is it all brash and bling? Not so much. “Discretion has crept in now, people don’t want to show off,” Kemp explains.

“For Clarges we didn’t want to repeat One Hyde Park. I wanted to do something that was British and had a connection to Mayfair but wasn’t classical. Mayfair’s got very good art deco connections and it’s full of industry – watchmaking, jewellery,

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We don’t steer our clients in a particular direction, we honour what they want.

We really try and get into the depths of their soul because it’s their home, after all.

We’re very sincere in terms of delivering the spirit of the home they want to create because more often than not, they stay in these homes forever.”

It is this approach that has won him such acclaim, even though he insists he’s never been particularly well known. Yet he was hired on the spot by Barbara Barry – which he attributes to him wearing head-to-toe grey, a look that apparently appealed to her love of tonality – and then headhunted by Candy & Candy. He joined Candy & Candy in 2004 when there were just six people and grew it to a team of 120. Why did he leave? “I’m a quiet, reserved person and when I joined them it was a quiet, reserved company,” he says. “It then grew into an empire and the politics that goes along with that didn’t appeal to me. I took a six-month break and I would have been quite happy to go back to Los Angeles and work in a restaurant – I like serving people. But a client called me up and asked me to do their house and then word got out that I was available. I had no vision, I had no logo, it was just me working in my living room. Before I knew it, I had five people in my living room and I realised it was getting serious and I had to do something about it. So I rented an office, commissioned a website, and the phone was just ringing and ringing.”

It’s a sea change from life in a small Welsh town and an “academically hopeless” boy who spent much of his art foundation course gazing out of the window and never really wanted to leave the “incredibly creative” home in which he grew up with his portrait painter mother and architect father.

Julia Carrick OBE selected Martin Kemp Design for inclusion in the luxury industry bible Great British Brands, alongside the likes of Asprey, Aston Martin and Burberry.

Kemp hints at a retail product range in the pipeline and says he would love to design a boutique – but only at the level of Chanel, Tom Ford or Balenciaga. Yet for all that, Martin Kemp seemingly still can’t quite believe his luck. “Yes we have a nice office and we work with spectacular clients,” he says. “We sometimes get carried around in fabulous cars, private jets and helicopters.

But I’m not interested in living this life.

It’s nice to dip your toe into, but at the end of the day I’m just as happy to go home on the bus.”

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GLOSSARY TOP RESTAURANTS Bob Bob Ricard offers consistently good food at a very sensible price with excellent service.

Its stylish interior provides privacy and glamour. Chez Bruce has spectacular food with simple elegant ambience. I've yet to have a disappointing experience there.

Bob Bob Ricard: 1 Upper James Street, Soho, W1; bobbobricard.com. Chez Bruce: 2 Bellevue Road, Wandsworth, SW17; chezbruz.co.uk BEST PLACE FOR A NIGHTCAP I rarely drink but always appreciate a bourbon or gin at the bar in Chiltern Firehouse.

1 Chiltern Street, Marylebone, W1; chilternfirehouse.com .

MOST INSPIRING VIEW I never fail to enjoy looking at the marvellous view of London from Waterloo Bridge.

Whether you face towards St Paul’s or towards Westminster, night or day, it's a special vista embracing old and new.

St James's Square

Clarges Mayfair residents' lounge

FAVOURITE BUILDINGS Architecturally I admire Richmond House in Whitehall, a clever modern reimagining of the old which blends well into London’s historic fabric. My mother introduced me to Target House in St.James’s, which is somewhat startling initially but I – like she did – now see the fabulous style in this 1980s icon by Rodney Gordon. I've always liked 10 Fleet Place also, somewhat redolent of Gotham City, with nice detailing and a brave sense of modern classicism.

MOST-LOVED MUSEUM OR GALLERY This depends on my mood. As a modernist the White Cube in Bermondsey stimulates me; for culture the V&A fascinates me; and as a classic car lover the London Motor Museum out in Hayes excites me.

White Cube: 144-152 Bermondsey Street, Southwark, SE1; whitecube.com. V&A: Cromwell Road, Knightsbridge, SW7; vam.ac.uk.

London Motor Museum: 3 Nestles Avenue, Hayes, UB3; londonmotormuseum.co.uk

Private jet

St James's Square

St James's Square

Private yacht

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HOME & INTERIORS

Clarges Mayfair drawing room

77 South Audley Street

77 South Audley Street

Ten Trinity Square

Ten Trinity Square

Images: Mathew Evans

Ten Trinity Square

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L A S T WO R D

CORK KITTY FLATS, £395, Veuve Clicquot Collection by Charlotte Olympia

THE CONNAUGHT

PREFERRED HOTEL

The Connaught. It’s in the heart of Mayfair, in between great shops, restaurants and Hyde Park. the-connaught.co.uk

I BUY FURNITURE AT…

HOME IS…

Ladbroke Grove is where I have lived for most of my life. I like being in a quiet street on the periphery of central London, dipping in and out of chaos as and when I feel like it.

FAVOURITE LONDON LANDMARK

I love driving down the Embankment along the river Thames.

BEST MARTINI

Mark’s Club in Mayfair – the intimate atmosphere feels like home. marksclub.co.uk

MY GLOSSARY

PETER HARRINGTON

LONDON IN THREE WORDS IS… Home sweet home!

Sisley Soir D’Orient (EDP), £85.00; sisley-paris.com

ADELE MILDRED

Charlo e Olympia Dellal

FAVOURITE GALLERY

I collect photography and Michael Hoppen Gallery off the King’s Road always has great work. I’ve discovered young, up-andcoming artists at Rebecca Hossack on Charlotte Street. michaelhoppengallery.com; rebeccahossack.com

Golborne Road market in Notting Hill and Alfies Antique Market in Marylebone. The hunt is half the fun so I like to shop around. I also like to scour Circus Antiques online. alfiesantiques.com; circusantiques.co.uk

The shoe designer opens up her little black book to the capital, from bookshops to boxing classes BEST MANI/PEDI

JOSH WOOD

ABSOLUTE FLOWERS

Marcela’s on Holland Street in Kensington.

I always have a half-moon manicure. marcelas.co.uk

TOP FACIALIST

I absolutely recommend Yvonne Martin in Maida Vale. I almost always fall asleep during a session and leave feeling rejuvenated and glowing. yvonnemartin.co.uk

I GET MY STATIONERY FROM…

I like having something special and unique.

I prefer to have something designed – I’ve worked with great illustrators like Clym Evernden and Adele Mildred – and then get them printed myself.

THE DISH I ALWAYS ORDER IS…

The house salad at Ikeda on Brook Street, Mayfair. It’s one of my favourite restaurants and I also love their signature white fish sashimi dish that is beautifully designed to look like a flower. ikedarestaurant.com

I GET MY HAIR DONE BY… John Hilliard at Daniel Hersheson on Conduit Street. I like to set my hair in 1940s waves and he is the only person who can do it authentically and it lasts for days. For colour, Sibi Bolan at Josh Wood in Holland Park has made me blonde, brunette and red. hershesons.com; joshwoodcolour.com

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MY GO-TO DESIGNERS ARE…

Emilia Wickstead and Temperley London make dressing up fun, while Isa Arfen, The Vampire’s Wife and HVN make up many of my wardrobe staples. If I like a style I tend to get it in every colour. I prefer to dress up rather than down, but when dressing for the countryside I sometimes spoil myself with something from Holland and Holland. emiliawickstead.com; temperleylondon.com isaarfen.com; thevampireswife.com; hvnlabel.com; hollandandholland.com

THE FLORIST I RELY ON IS…

Absolute Flowers in Maida Vale. They have made me some fabulous arrangements and window displays for my parties at home and for work events. I also love ordering from Flower Bx – a simple and elegant selection and they deliver straight to your home. absoluteflowersandhome.com; flowerbx.com

MY SIGNATURE SCENT IS… CLYM EVERNDEN

Sisley’s Soir d’Orient – it’s something special in a beautiful bottle. sisley-paris.com

NEW DISCOVERY

I love being in book shops and only recently found the time to walk into Peter Harrington on Dover Street, Mayfair, after years of rushing past it. They sell beautiful collectible and first edition books. peterharrington.co.uk

TEMPERLEY LONDON

FAVOURITE TERRACE

Dock Kitchen on Kensal Road in Ladbroke Grove has a large outdoor terrace right on the canal. It’s one of my favourite places, whether it’s for dinner with friends or Sunday lunch with my family. It serves a changing menu with food from around the world. dockkitchen.co.uk

FOR A WORKOUT I GO TO…

Box Clever Sports on Ladbroke Grove.

I have one-on-one boxing sessions but occasionally do one of their killer classes. boxcleversports.com

AN EXHIBITION THAT IMPRESSED ME RECENTLY IS… Works by Mattia Bonetti at David Gill Gallery on King Street in St James’s – they always show fabulous art. davidgillgallery.com

Veuve Clicquot

by Charlotte Olympia, £175

The Veuve Clicquot by Charlotte Olympia collection of shoes and champagne is available exclusively from Harrods. harrods.com

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