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THE ETHICALIST

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November 2023 – January 2024

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ET H I CA L I S T

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U A E ’ S

F I R S T

S U S T A I N A B L E

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M A G A Z I N E

S U S T A I N A B L E • S T Y L I S H • S M A R T

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you and the planet WILL LOVE

REPORT

THE TURTLE SHEIKH

COP28

8 best places to live to survive climate change

Diving in to save endangered animals

Why Dubai is the world’s new green capital

2023/11/12 18:30

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09/11/2023

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EDITORS’ LETTER

THE

Welcome to the

ET H I CA L I S T

THE UAE’S FIRST SUSTAINABLE LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE.

ome of you may already know us online from theethicalist.com where we have been bringing you exclusive content on conservation, the environment, sustainable fashion, slow travel, natural beauty, food, tech and much, much more for the last 18 months. So why launch a print edition now? While we have been growing globally online, with audiences spanning from the UK to the US, we wanted to gain a wider audience at home, right here in the UAE. And the timing couldn’t be better. As you will read on page 44, all eyes are on Dubai as it hosts COP28, the world’s most important climate summit. We believe this is the right time to inspire a broad audience to live a more sustainable lifestyle, one story, one day at a time. Of course, we wrestled with the carbon footprint associated with creating a magazine, but The Ethicalist is printed on Forest Steward Council (FSC) approved paper from Europe and with soyabean ink. We’ve even created our own forest with One Tree Planted to offset our emissions and we’re keeping it local, only sprinkling copies around the UAE to make sure that our carbon footprint is just a tiptoe – small steps for a big impact! The Ethicalist will be a quarterly magazine and, like this launch edition, will be packed with zeitgeist stories, exclusive interviews and sustainable fashion shoots from both haute couture international designers (page 30) and small, homegrown brands (page 84) so you can look and feel your absolute best without it having to cost the Earth. We also got a little creative and whipped up not one, but two covers for our magazine. Why? To give you a taste of everything we have inside - from sustainable style to saving Rwandan Gorillas – and also so that this coffee table magazine gets double the shelf life. It’s so fabulous, we just had to do it twice, and trust us, you’ll want to flip it over again and again! We would love to hear what you think of our debut issue, so please get in touch with us on hello@ethicalistmag.com and mark your calendars – our next print edition drops at the end of January. In the meantime, subscribe at theethicalist.com to stay up to date with all our news and to keep enjoying The Ethicalist online, every day. Until the next issue,

Anthea and Karen

EDITORIAL Anthea Ayache, Founder anthea@ethicalistmag.com Karen Pasquali Jones, Editor-in-Chief karen@ethicalistmag.com Juan Geel, Creative Director

Advertising Sandra Spencer, Commercial Director sandra@ethicalistmag.com

Distribution Alaina Mutti, Marketing Manager alaina@ethicalistmag.com

The Ethicalist Magazine License: 17001965 Ras Al Khaimah, UAE 2023 The Ethicalist Magazine All rights Reserved theethicalist.com No part of this magazine may be copied, transmitted or distributed without the express written consent of The Ethicalist. Printed in the UAE on FSC certified wood-free paper with chemical-free soyabean ink. FSC certification ensures that paper products have been sourced from forests that are managed with strict environmental, social and economic standards.

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CONTENTS 16

Is it Selfish to Have Another Baby? As the global population hits 8bn should you shelve the idea of a family?

The Crossing

How Toby Gregory and his team mates survived 42 days in a tiny boat rowing across The Atlantic

Will The Lionheart

His parents starred in the film Born Free about raising an orphaned lion cub, Elsa, but away from the cameras Will Travers and his family still rescue big cats

The Killing Forests

Is your shampoo, lipstick or detergent making Orangutans extinct?

The Best And Worst Places to Live to Survive Climate Change

The countries adapting to global warming

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PLUS

38 The Truth About Silk The way the textile is made will leave most fashionistas boiling mad 48 The Turtle Sheikh Discover how a Sharjah Royal is rescuing critically endangered turtles

Island Queen

Luxury designer looks in bright shades that prove that sustainable fashion is super stylish

62 Will Our Oceans Be Fishless by 2048? Could overfishing spell the end for life in our oceans? 66 Are We Heading for a Sixth Mass Extinction? Is our behaviour taking us the brink of destruction and how do we stop it?

All Eyes On Dubai The City of Gold will become the world’s green capital as it hosts COP28, the global climate summit

72 ‘I’m the Apple King’ Make celebrity chef Raymond Blanc’s delicious apple dishes 74 A Taste of Sustainability The 5 star restaurants transforming the UAE’s culinary scene 76 Is It Safe To Raise Children As Vegans? Does a plant-based diet give kids the nutrients they need to thrive? 80 The UAE’s New Green Hotel Revolution These hotels are setting a gold standard for green tourism 84 White Heat Stay cool in neutral linens picked from boutique stores in the UAE

92 The Greatest Show on Earth Get a ringside seat for nature’s most sensation spectacle 98 Gorillas in the Wild Treking to see the Great Apes

Take to The Skies

How Dubai is soaring ahead to be the first to use electric flying vehicles

102 A Breath Of Fresh Air Explore the UAE’s nature spots 106 Look 10 Years Younger Natural products to shed a decade 109 Beauty Get the look from our fashion shoot

A Sky Full Of Stars

The best glamping resorts in the UAE

110 When Your Partner Doesn’t Care About Climate Change How to make your mate go green 114 Dubai Problems It’s not always been eco-friendly in the emirates 116 Eco Legend Jane Goodall has redefined what it is to be human

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CROSSING

Dubai-based Toby Gregory, 45, alongside James Raley, and Rai Tamagnini, spent a gruelling 42 days in a tiny eight-metre-long boat rowing 5,000 km across The Atlantic. Facing storms, sharks and punishing fatigue, the Arabian Ocean Rowing Team doggedly ploughed on to bring global attention to the state of our oceans BY MIKE PEAKE AND ANTHEA AYACHE

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hrough the cloak of night, beneath an unbroken canopy of stars, Toby Gregory’s muscles protested in revolt at the ceaseless oar strokes. Each arduous pull seemed to further the distance between the boat and their target shore some 2,700 nautical miles away. Combined with the searing muscular pain was a sweeping solitude, even with the shared company of two fellow adventurers, James Raley and Rai Tamagnini. In the confines of their compact eight-metre boat, stocked with provisions for just under three months, the trio set their sights on the task ahead: to cross the Atlantic Ocean from the Canary Islands to Antigua. More than a test of human endurance, their mission was anchored in a deeply significant cause – to highlight the dire crisis of plastic pollution in our oceans. ‘It was only our second night at sea,’ reflects Toby. ‘We decided to drop our parachute anchor because of the terrible conditions, which halted our progress. As the waves bobbed us up and down, and we waited for the sun to rise, the realisation sank in that I was simply a tiny speck in this vast ocean, and I endlessly questioned what had got me to this point.’

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The beginnings for this quest had been planted years earlier when Toby chanced upon The Penance Way, a book that chronicles an ill-fated attempt to row across the Atlantic in 1967. It struck him as being one of the world’s last adventures. ‘The seeds for this challenge were sown when I was working in international relations and my work was connected to The United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP),’ Toby says. ‘I learned about UNEP’s Clean Seas Programme and the scourge of plastic pollution. I began to fully understand the most pressing environmental issue of our time.’ Toby began delving into sobering facts, including the revelation that 11 million tonnes of plastic find their way into our oceans each year, a figure projected to nearly triple by 2040. Discovering that countless creatures, including fish, seabirds and marine mammals, fall prey to ingesting plastic debris or becoming ensnared in discarded plastic waste, resulting in injury and often death, would keep him awake at night. The facts weighed heavy on his mind and Toby was determined to act. ‘The world’s oceans are a vital buffer against climate change that we take for granted,’ he explains.‘ And I realised that if I was going to truly make a real difference, I’d need to do something extraordinary. The decision wasn’t just about embracing an adventure but addressing a realworld crisis.’

The Journey Begins

Mount Everest has been conquered numerous times, and even the realms of space explored, but very few have dared to challenge the unforgiving expanse of the Atlantic. For Toby, who has been spellbound by the sea since his father taught him to surf as a child, the path became clear. The 5,000 km mission would take two years of meticulous preparation to realise. Toby set about securing funds to have a boat specifically built for the challenge and also began searching for the right teammates. While specialists for the boat building were willing, future companions for the challenge were not. ‘Everyone kept saying no,’ Toby says. ‘Eventually, I found James and Rai, one of who works in recruitment,

the other is a vet. We might not have seemed the ideal candidates, but on a fitness level we all had an endurance background. Mentally, we all had the right mindset, and a belief that we could achieve a goal that most people would deem impossible.’ From there a wealth of knowledge and training lay ahead. The three men familiarised themselves with every detail of the vessel, from the dual solar panels required for the radio and desalination gear, to ways in which to safely clean the vessel’s underbelly while being tossed around by monumental waves. Importantly, the men learned how to deliver on what they had now promised the UN Environment Programme: to raise global awareness of plastic pollution. Finally, on 12 December, 2022, the trio were ready. Toby, who is married with two children, recalls: ‘Setting off was a whirlwind of emotions. Seeing the tearful faces of loved ones on the shore was heart-wrenching.’ The journey’s challenges would prove to be manifold. From starlit skies to marine life encounters, their voyage was interspersed with unforgiving battles against Mother Nature. Storms would strike them on countless occasions, their boat a mere speck battling towering waves. At one poignant moment, a whale passed beneath their vessel. As it drifted under, it rolled slightly to its side, allowing Toby a fleeting eye-toeye connection. ‘In that brief second, looking into the whale’s eye, I felt an amazing kinship.’ Toby says. ‘It was a real reminder that the ocean is a living entity, teeming with life that we have to respect and protect.’ Yet, even in the middle of this breath-taking beauty, the evidence of humanity’s behaviour was impossible to ignore. Floating plastic debris continuously marred their path. ‘Despite being miles away from civilization, the sight of plastic pollution was everywhere,’ he says. ‘We were told by global experts that we wouldn’t see anything but microplastic, so I had taken a plankton net, and the process was to sieve the water and keep samples for research purposes. However, we saw fully intact items floating by as if on a conveyor belt. There was everything from plastic water bottles to plastic plates floating thousands of miles from shore. It was a bleak and

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Toby and his two teammates spent 42 days living, sleeping and rowing in a tiny 8m boat

‘In that fleeting moment, looking directly into the whale’s eye, I felt an incredible connection’

relentless reminder of the reason behind our mission.’ Life on the boat was a study in discipline and resilience. The routine was gruelling, with continuous twohour shifts of rowing, and one hour for rest. Danger was ever-present, with powerful ocean currents constantly threatening their tiny boat. Additionally, the curious attention of marine predators, such as a persistent tiger shark, kept their senses alert. ‘The nights were the hardest and the most introspective,’ Toby says. ‘The vastness of the ocean, the glimmer of stars, I wish everyone could witness that beauty. But alongside that awe, there’s a palpable danger. The ocean doesn’t discriminate. It’s both magnificent and merciless.’ The worst storm hit the crew 10 days into their mission. They had received a stark radio alert from Dubai with a daunting message: ‘Expect heightened waves. Be careful.’ But nothing could prepare the trio for the magnitude of the storm they would face. ‘In the distance, we could see what’s known as ‘white horses’ – flecks of white foam on growing waves which soon began crashing and started to break,’ Toby describes. ‘By the time of my night shift, the waves were breaking over the back of the boat, making a thunderous clap as each one struck.’ ‘The idea of rowing went out of the window as the three of us struggled to keep the boat upright, surfing down waves that grew bigger and bigger. As the sun came up, we got a first full glimpse of the size of the waves we were battling. They were so tall that it felt like you were glancing across rooftops in the city of London. We were navigating mountains of water,

but with each wave our boat crested, our courage grew. We knew that we couldn’t let death enter the equation, we had to focus on the task at hand and not let our focus drift in that deadly direction. Yes, we were fearful for our safety, but we’d prepared for this. The ocean was just doing what the ocean does.’ It was that kind of focused thinking that got the team through. They couldn’t allow for even the smallest crack in their commitment and belief in what they were doing, otherwise the precarious courage holding everything together, could have come cascading down. ‘A couple of days later, we got a sense of just how bad the storm had been,’ Toby explains. ‘We received a message that another small boat crossing the Atlantic had capsized just 10 nautical miles from where we had been. They were in the water for almost 18 hours before a passing cargo boat picked them up. The captain said they’d recorded waves up to 40ft high.’

Water, Water Everywhere

Despite the enormous challenges of storms that sapped their energy, strained their relationships and left the men feeling incredibly far from home, on the trio rowed, driven by their determination to highlight the global plastic pollution and to deliver on their promise to the UNEP. ‘It was hard, even though we’d been training for this for two years,’ says Toby. ‘We were awake for 20 hours a day, confined to a small space not much bigger than a car, had to drink desalinated sea water, survive on energy bars and dried fruit to consume the 6,000 calories a day we needed to maintain our energy levels. Our hands were ripped to shreds and inflamed to almost twice their normal size. We were covered in blisters and bruises from being bashed around the boat by waves. Those black and blue marks were a constant reminder of who was in charge, and at all times it was the ocean.’ Storms and waves were not the only challenges the trio faced. During the day, the summer sun was of a similar heat to the peak of the UAE summer. The searing sun ripped through everything, and the boat offered no

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real shade or respite. Inside the cabin, it reached 50 degrees, and on deck, conditions were no better. Yet at night, it could not have been colder, with the team having to wear a fleece and a jacket. They also had to brave jumping into the ocean with five miles of water beneath to clean the underside of the boat every few days. ‘The ocean is full of life and as we trundled through the water many things latched onto the boat, seeing it as a possible home,’ Toby explains. ‘If we didn’t clean it we would have been carrying a mini forest under there which could weigh us down and reduce our speed by almost half – which given that we were going at walking pace there was no option but to go under and remove them. ‘But the ocean doesn’t stop for you. It remains ferocious, so we had to be attached to a harness at all times because the current was so strong it could just snatch you away into the nothingness. Someone also had to scan for sharks, or other open water predators that may have wanted to eat us, while two of the team were underneath trying to scrape the bottom of the boat.’ Each challenge faced, from navigating endless miles of ocean to enduring hunger, thirst and mental and physical fatigue, was a testament to their shared commitment. ‘Our boat became our universe,’ Toby explains. ‘Each of us depended on the other, not just for survival but for morale, while the shared dream of a cleaner ocean kept us going. Yet still sometimes I look back now and I am flabbergasted by just how we coped.’

Triumph at Last

After 42 days of gruelling rowing that pushed the men to their very limits, the end to their monumental journey was on the horizon. Catching sight of the shores of Antigua was, quite simply, a dream come true. ‘Seeing land after such a challenging journey was surreal,’ says Toby. ‘While there was an overpowering relief, there was also an overwhelming pride in what we had accomplished. ‘I hadn’t read the news or been in contact with anyone for so long. My senses had been used to water, stars and sunlight and when we came round that headland into England

happen and this has set the wheels in motion for everything that happens from here on in.’ The voyage of the Arabian Ocean Rowing team was never just a test of human tenacity, it was a clarion call for a global change in our relationship with plastics. ‘Would I do it again?’ Toby ponders, pausing. ‘I believe that you’ve got to be the change that you want to see in the world. So, if it was deemed viable and it was important enough, then, of course, 100 per cent yes.’

What Toby Did Next Since completing the crossing, Toby has fulfilled his promise to the United Nations Environment Programme to put the issue of plastic pollution at the forefront of the agenda, not just in the UAE but globally.

Harbour with all the yachts hooting their horns at us, I was completely overwhelmed by the support. It was a moment in my life I will never forget.’ When Toby took his first shaky steps on land to hug loved ones, he was a changed man both mentally and physically. Weighing 20kg less, and with a few additional scars and a beard he was happy to lose, Toby was swept away by the outpouring of support and love he received. ‘I didn’t collapse,’ he says, ‘but I needed help to fall into the arms of my family and friends. Their support was unbelievable and without them I would never have made it. When people come together great things can

Toby lost 20kg during the voyage

He has persistently given talks at global forums, conferences, companies and schools to educate people about how to use and dispose properly of plastic. To date he has engaged with more than 20,000 students. He has also brought back the boat to the UAE for Row To Cop, an endeavour that will see CEOs, students and the general public join him in a relay to row around the UAE coastline to raise awareness of plastic pollution. Toby is also encouraging firms and individuals to take ‘The Plastic Pledge’, his new initiative to drive down plastic use in the UAE. So far 63 companies are involved.

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Used for lipsticks, toothpaste and even biodiesel, palm oil is destroying swathes of primary forest, leaving the orangutans who live there starving, homeless and critically endangered – the final tier before extinction BY ANTHEA AYACHE

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iswe the orangutan sits on the edge of the rain-soaked boardwalk, her back stooped in despair and long fingers wrapped around her feet, ready to rock back and forth – a selfsoothing habit usually reserved for those under stress. ‘She’s an orangutan in mourning,’ explains our Tanjung Puting National Park forest guide. ‘Ciswe is 35 and she’s just had a miscarriage. She won’t be able to have babies again.’ As if aware of being the focus of attention, Ciswe swivels to face us, deliberating whether to carry on pulling on our heartstrings or move onto the purse strings. She decides on the latter, uncoiling her 50kg weight out of her sitting position and onto all fours to begin a dignified, yet determined, knuckle walk towards our group. Our guide urges us to pick up the pace, ushering the ramshackle group along the jungle footpath towards our waiting klotok river boats, explaining that although Ciswe may be in the depths of despair, this middle-aged primate also has a reputation for a spot of daylight robbery.

Deadly Orangutan Decline Ciswe is a resident of the 4,150km² Tanjung Puting National Park, an area of protected coastal tropical heath and peat swamp forest in Indonesian Borneo’s Central Kalimantan province. It is one of the last places left in the world where these red, shaggy-haired primates can still be seen in the wild, but with only around 100,000 Bornean orangutans left, down from roughly 315,000 a century ago, Ciswe is one of a dying breed. A laundry list of challenges for survival face the critically endangered Bornean orangutans from the illegal pet trade to being hunted for meat. But the loss of their habitat from deforestation due to palm oil, logging and mining is the deadliest. Combined, these threats result in the death of 2,000 - 3,000 orangutans every year. Indonesia has one of the highest deforestation rates in the world, and only half of the original forest cover now remains. More than 74 million hectares of rainforest – an area nearly twice the size of Japan – has been logged, burned or degraded in the last 50 years, according to Greenpeace. Although estimates vary, studies suggest more than a million hectares

‘Orangutans are seen as an agricultural pest. Rescue teams have found orangutans beaten unconscious or to death with wooden planks, or iron bars, butchered with machetes, riddled with air rifle pellets, drowned and even doused in petrol and set alight’ of rainforest is cleared annually with around 70 per cent of that occurring in forests on mineral soils and 30 per cent on carbon-rich peatland forests. The Palm Oil Problem Deforestation in Indonesia has been largely fuelled by an insatiable global demand for the world’s most popular vegetable oil – palm oil – used in biofuel and many food and cosmetic products. Indonesia is the leading global producer. Palm oil grows in peatlands in wet, tropical environments that Borneo offers in abundance. Traditionally grown in monocultures, its cultivation requires swathes of primary tropical rainforest to be drained and burned, the effects of which are devastating. ‘In general, when oil palm replaces forest, between 80 and 100 per cent of the mammal, bird and reptile species disappear,’ Michelle Desilets, Executive Director at The Orangutan Land Trust tells The Ethicalist. ‘Orangutans may be driven out or stranded in small patches of forest. They will venture into the palm oil plantation to seek some nutrients from the young palm fronds or fallen fruit but in some plantations, orangutans are seen as an agricultural pest or a threat to humans. Rescue teams

The palm oil sector employs 17 million workers

have found orangutans beaten unconscious or to death with wooden planks or iron bars, butchered with machetes, riddled with air rifle pellets, drowned, and doused in petrol and set alight.’ Indonesia exports around 45 million metric tonnes of palm oil per year in a sector that employs 17 million workers both directly and indirectly. Bringing in $26 billion annually, it contributes 3.5 per cent to Indonesia’s GDP. With such a huge, and growing, global demand comes rapid deforestation and alarming ecological results. The destruction increases greenhouse gas emissions by annihilating carbonabsorbing rainforest, which in turn drives global warming. Deforestation also threatens biodiversity with many animals injured, killed or displaced in the process; oran-

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gutans are one of the worst affected. A recent study published in Perspectives in Ecology and Conservation has projected that deforestation in Borneo will destroy an area a tenth of the size of Italy in the next decade, destroying the habitat of 26,000 orangutans. ‘Deforestation has a huge impact on the environment and wildlife,’ says Rachel Agnew from The Rainforest Foundation UK. ‘The world’s forests are home to 80 per cent of the globe’s terrestrial species of animals, plants and insects. Deforestation results in the loss of habitats for land species, and as a result we are seeing an increasing number of these species being listed as threatened or endangered.’ The Bornean Orangutan was moved up a tier from ‘endangered’ to ‘critically endangered’ by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) in 2016, the last time these primates were assessed. This shift in status, which saw them join their cousins the Sumatran Orangutan, means they now face ‘an extremely high risk of extinction in the wild’. The IUCN wrote at the time: ‘Bornean Orangutans decreased by more than 60 per cent between 1950 and 2010, and a further 22 per cent decline is projected to occur between 2010 and 2025. Combined, this equates to a loss of more than 82 per cent over 75 years.’

based biodiesel. The EU is the world’s largest biodiesel producer. In 2020 palm oil accounted for 18 per cent of the product used to make the fuel after rapeseed – also known as canola – oil (38 per cent) and used cooking oil (23 per cent). However, last year in the Renewable Energy Directive II (RED II) which will be in effect until 2030, biodiesel made from palm oil and soybean oil has been categorised as being a high-risk of causing deforestation and emitting more greenhouse gasses than the use of fossil fuels. This means EU member states can no longer attribute palm oilbased biofuels towards their renewable energy and climate targets. With the global palm oil market set to reach $98 billion by 2030, according to a report published by Grand View Research, and WWF warning that the Indonesian government plans to increase oil palm production to a whopping 51 million tonnes in the next year, environmentalists are urging industry players to clean up their act, fast. Some advocates have called for a boycott of palm oil (#SayNoToPalmOil) but most environmental campaigners

‘Indonesia has one of the highest deforestation rates in the world. More than 74 million hectares of rainforest – an area nearly twice the size of Japan – has been logged, burned or degraded in the last half-century’ agree that it’s not the best solution. Instead they advocate adopting sustainable practices across the industry. Sustainable Palm Oil That means working closely with the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO), the industry’s certification body, and, more recently, the PalmOil Innovation Group (POIG), a group of progressive RSPO members who joined forces with organisations such as Greenpeace and Rainforest Action Network to push companies to fully adhere to ‘no deforestation, no peat development, and no exploitation’. ‘The RSPO sets a lower threshold or bar,’ explains Michelle Desilets.

Biodiesal made from palm oil can emit more greenhouse gases than fossil fuels

From Cookies to Cosmetics Palm oil plantations – referred to as green deserts for their almost entire lack of biodiversity – now stretch across more than 27 million hectares of the Earth’s surface, an area the size of New Zealand. This is expected to increase even more due to palm oil usage in biodiesel. Extracted from the pulp of the palm fruit, this versatile oil can be found in 50 per cent of all packaged consumer goods on supermarket shelves, from cookies to pizzas, chocolates to detergents and even canned pet food. It is also significantly deployed in the cosmetics industry due to its ability to add smoothness and foam; you can find it in everyday products including soaps, shampoos, face creams, lipsticks, and toothpaste. As global awareness of the palm oil problem has grown, many consumers have opted for products that are free of the oil, however, they are still inadvertently filling up their cars with palm oil-

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‘And while this bar is easier to reach – allowing for greater inclusivity across the industry – it does represent a standard of production infinitely superior to ‘business as usual’. It is an imperfect solution but an absolutely necessary part of the toolkit to transform the industry.’ With 50 per cent of orangutans living outside of protected areas, wellmanaged plantations that are economically viable and do not encroach on precious orangutan habitat are not only an opportunity, but a necessity, according to the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN)’s Andrew Marshall. ‘We know that even if we protect every orangutan in every national park throughout their range, in perpetuity, that’s not enough orangutans to ensure the species won’t become extinct,’ he warns. But it’s not all doom and gloom for the great ape. A study by Borneo Futures for the PONGO (Palm Oil & NGO) Alliance, after looking at 2,717 Borneo plantations, provides evidence that RSPO-certified concessions lose 25 times less forest and orangutan habitat than non-certified ones. Research has also shown that the average carbon footprint of certified sustainable palm oil (CSPO) is 36 per cent lower than for non-certified palm oil. The next stage is to stem illegal or unsustainable plantations, and ensure the expansion of certified lands. Eco-Friendly Practices Over the past few years, a series of commitments have been adopted by major brands to stop purchasing palm oil linked to deforestation. As of this year around 17 per cent of palm oil traded globally is covered by such commitments with some major palm oil buyers in the West, such as Mars, Unilever, Nutella and Kellogg’s, now requiring certification of environmentally sound practices. ‘Indonesia is not going to stop producing palm oil,’ says Andrew Marshall matter-of-factly. ‘It is a poor country with lots of hungry people who deserve healthcare, to be well-fed and fulfil their aspirations, and palm oil is four times more productive than anything else they can plant on that land.’ It’s a sentiment echoed by residents in Kalimantan. ‘My friend used to be a [forest] warden,’ explains local tour guide Eiros, ‘but he moved to palm oil

‘Over the past few years a series of commitments have been adoped by major global brands to stop purchasing palm oil linked to deforestation, Unilever, Mars, Nuttela and Kellogg’s all now require certification of environmentally-sound practices’ because it pays more. When I asked him about the orangutans, he said he needed money and that it was someone else’s problem.’ Consumer Choices For the concerned consumer, working out exactly which products do or don’t use deforestation-free, certified sustainable palm oil can be a complicated process. Few products voluntarily display the RSPO trademark and a vast number of food products simply list palm oil as ‘vegetable oil’. Non foodrelated products that use derivatives of palm oil have more than 200 alternate names to choose from. With a growing awareness among consumers, thanks to a very clear message being relayed by environmental advocates through social media channels, there is consensus that the status quo is far from enough. But conscious consumers can access a wealth of information simply by digging a little deeper and asking a few tough questions of their favourite brands. ‘One can consult various scorecards (Greenpeace, UCS, RAN, Oxfam) to get an idea how brands, retailers and growers are performing,’ explains Michelle Desilets, ‘or use an app such

as PalmSmart. But, more importantly, we would like to ask consumers to communicate with their favourite brands and retailers, via social media, telephone, email or just tell them: “I want deforestation-free certified sustainable palm oil in all products containing palm oil.’” This, in turn, will force retailers to ensure their suppliers use CSPO in their products. This demand will ultimately work its way along the entire supply chain to producers, who must then adopt best practice. Making informed choices will allow consumers to bring about positive change to the industry, such as calling for mandatory, transparent product labelling on all items containing palm oil. The United States, European Union, Australia and Canada all now require detailed labelling. In the six months leading up to the EU labelling introduction, demand for CSPO increased by 67 per cent – evidence that consumer action can succeed. Deforestation-free commitments are key to the survival of orangutans like moody, but mischievous, Ciswe because, as Michelle Desilets states bluntly: ‘Wild orangutans need forests to survive.’

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FEATURE

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hether to have a second or third child has typically been a question of money – a particularly acute one given the current cost-of living-crisis – and maybe the mother’s childbirth experiences to date. Yet several polls of the last two years have suggested that around one in 10 people in their early 20s are planning not to have children at all, in order, they say, to reduce overpopulation and, in turn, protect the environment. Because if the end of civilisation has, in fiction at least, resulted from asteroid strikes, alien invasion, nuclear war and the like, it’s been posited that a more likely cause will be overpopulation. That, it’s suggested, will lead to a collapse of food and water resources and a pretty awful world for tomorrow’s children to live in. After all, a study by American investment bank Morgan Stanley in 2021 reckons that having a child is seven times worse for the climate in terms of CO2 emissions than ‘the next 10 most discussed mitigants that individuals can do’. And then there’s the human impact on biodiversity. The thinking seems to be: don’t have a (or another) baby and save the planet. That may seem all the more pertinent a notion as the global population has just tipped the 8 billion mark. For most people having children is still a hoped for and fulfilling, if challenging, part of what it means to have lived. And there’s a sadness in the idea of a generation – who may well feel differently when they’re older, of course – consciously cutting themselves off from this potential joy. But are they right? Is overpopulation a genuine cause for concern? It certainly isn’t a new idea. First pondered by influential economist and scholar Thomas Malthus in the 18th century, and, more recently by demographer and Stanford University professor Paul R Ehrlich, in his 1968 book The Population Bomb, they both claimed we wouldn’t be able to feed the mass population in the future. ‘The battle to feed all of humanity is over. In the 1970s hundreds of millions of people will starve to death,’ the book intoned. That didn’t come to pass, of course, but it did inspire an anti-population-growth offensive around the world, with some unpleasant outcomes. In Mexico, Peru, Bolivia, Indonesia and India, among others, millions were sterilised, sometimes forcibly – China’s one-child policy led to an estimated 100 million forced abortions.

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FEATURE

Restraining population growth is still being argued for albeit not by these methods. ‘Population growth is catching up with us now,’ says Robin Maynard, director of the Population Matters campaign group. ‘We’ve held it off but we can’t do that forever – biodiversity is falling off a cliff, and there will be food shortages even if the middling estimates of population growth are taken. Every person added to the population total, whatever their consumption level, adds to the total problem. But we just don’t want to point the finger at people and talk about their population issues. The green lobby won’t talk about it but it’s the elephant in the room.’ That seems to be the case given the numbers. The United Nations estimates there will be 10 billion of us

one generation to the next without immigration. That’s around 2.1 children. And right now the global average number of births per woman is standing at 2.3 – only just above the replacement rate. In many developed nations it’s way below replacement level. In fact, the overall global population growth rate peaked in the early 1960s and is now less than one per cent a year. So here’s the twist: the problem, if not for the planet, then for humanity, might actually be an impending collapse in the number of people, not that there are too many. ‘There is a very apocalyptic version of this in which the norm becomes for women to not have enough children to sustain the population,’ suggests Christopher Murray, the founding

‘What we’re seeing is a fundamental cultural change. But somebody has to have kids or we all go away. Arresting population decline may be a matter of national survival in some instances’ by mid-century, with some nations expected to see gigantic population spikes: the populations of Nigeria and the Philippines are expected to double by 2050. The biggest booms are expected in the poorest countries. And yet the populations of Italy and of China, in contrast, are expected to halve by the end of the century – a pattern expected to be repeated across much of the developed world. Indeed, what really matters, other demographers argue, is not the expected growth in the absolute number of people – which they attribute to the time lag common to population shifts, by which more births than deaths are recorded for a while even as fertility rates decline – but rather replacement levels. This is the number of births needed for a population to replace itself from

director of demographic research body The Institute for Health Metrics and Evaluation. ‘And in just a few hundred years we could be down to very small numbers. You might, as some do, think that if the world population drops to, say, 2 billion, that’s better for the environment. But then some very serious changes to the culture would be required to stop it going down to 1 billion, then 500 million, and so on.’ The fewer women who have children, the fewer women there will be to have children going forward – leading human populations into a potential death spiral. That’s why the likes of Darrel Bricker, CEO of Ipsos Public Affairs and co-author of Empty Planet: The Shock of Global Population Decline, is not alone in arguing that the real population

problem coming around the corner is less an environmental one but rather economic. With declining numbers of people, economies decline in turn and we have to worry about who will do all the work; who will care for the elderly and who will dream up the next big innovations we all need to survive? While there was once a time when the terrifyingly dystopian picture of a global population boom’s impact on the environment was accurate, things have now changed, Bricker argues. ‘The human footprint has contracted because more of us live in cities,’ he says.‘What we’re [now] seeing is a fundamental cultural change. The fact is that if having kids has been portrayed as being part of a full life, most people are pretty full after having two. ‘But somebody has to have kids or we all go away. [In the meantime] arresting the population decline may be a matter of national survival in some instances.’ Perhaps this is why Bricker, and Ipsos Public Affairs, don’t actually recommend any interventions when it comes to population numbers, arguably underscoring that what can feel intuitively right – fewer people must be better for the planet – isn’t necessarily so. That’s because when women have fewer children, they feel financially better off. And what do they do with that money? They consume more. So the problem is less one of how many people there are in total, so much as the lifestyles of the fewer but richer people around the world. And it’s a problem compounded by the fact that most people want to live financially better lives. It’s why Australia, China, Singapore and the Scandinavian nations have all launched various schemes to incentivise couples to have more children, all, more or less, with no or very little luck. This brings us back to our initial question: should you have more – or indeed any – children? You may think it wise to leave this decision to demographers, though they are clearly not in full agreement. But don’t assume that having fewer children is best for the future of the environment or, indeed, of humanity. You could yet decide after all that the right thing to do is to make babies, and then make some more.

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Will the Lionheart

INTERVIEW

WILL TRAVERS’ LIFE CHANGED AFTER MOVING TO KENYA WHILE HIS PARENTS FILMED THE ICONIC BORN FREE MOVIE. EVER SINCE HE’S BEEN DEVOTED TO SAVING LIONS AND WILDLIFE CONSERVATION BY KAREN PASQUALI JONES

he first time Will Travers OBE came close to a lion was on the set of his parents’ iconic awardwinning film Born Free when he was just five years old. He’d jetted out to Kenya for 10 months while his mother, actress Virginia McKenna and father, actor Bill Travers, shot the movie, which told how conservationists George and Joy Adamson raised an orphaned lion cub, Elsa, then successfully reintroduced her into the wild. Making the film meant working closely with 20 lions and it had a profound effect on his parents who, together with Will, set up the Born Free Foundation to stop the suffering of wild animals and help protect threatened species.

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INTERVIEW

Will, who has climbed Mount Kilimanjaro twice to raise money to care for the big cats they rescue, is particularly proud that they have increased the population of wild lions in Kenya by 25 per cent since 2010. His mother, now 92, and a dame, is still involved in conservation and the foundation of which he is president. Sadly, his father died in 1994. The foundation declared 2022 The Year Of The Lion in what would have been his father’s 100th birthday and a pride of life-size bronze statues toured the UK as part of the Born Free Forever exhibition to raise awareness and funds to help save lions and find them new homes. Here, Will, 64, speaks to The Ethicalist about his life-long love of lions as well as caring for gorillas, giraffes, elephants, bears and even orcas that the foundation rescues from captivity, persecution and exploitation around the world. The Ethicalist: You first went to Kenya when you were just five because your parents were making Born Free out there. How did that shape your life? Will: It was an extraordinary time. Mum and Dad were up at 5.30am to work with lions all day filming and I had two hours’ of home schooling with a tutor each day before I could go off and watch birdlife, ride horses and look at insects. It was truly magical and gave me a real appreciation of nature and wildlife. The Ethicalist: So when did you first come face to face with a lion? Will: We were taken to the set one day and saw the lions in the holding enclosures – there were about 20 of them. I was fascinated but we weren’t allowed to get too close as children are too loud and unpredictable. The f ilm came ou t i n 19 66 and i t ’s amazing to watch it now. My parents are with real lions – they’re not CGI like they are in the Life of Pi, for example, and there were no stunt doubles. My mum and dad did everything themselves, which could be very dangerous. My dad was

pinned down by a lion during one training session. It came from a circus as t he fi l m m a k e r s m i s t a k e n l y thought it would be more compliant when, in fact, those lions are more aggressive and who can blame them? Luckily, Dad wasn’t hurt. My mum’s ankle was broken while playing a game with the lions though. They were all crouched in the grass pretending to hunt gazelles but then Mum stood up because her leg was sore and a male lion called Boy lunged at her for spoiling the game and knocked her over. He weighed around 60kg and landed on my mum’s leg, shattering her ankle. My father had to take off his shirt and wriggle it through the grass to distract the lion and then grab my mum and rush her to safety. A lion is a wild animal and they are hard-wired to react to anything that could be considered a threat, no matter how much they like you and consider you a friend. My parents didn’t blame Boy. After my mum and dad finished filming, we all went on safari in Kenya and Tanzania and saw animals such as elephants and cheetahs in the wild. That’s what started our passion with wildlife and the belief that wild animals should be in the wild and not in a zoo or in captivity of any kind.

Will and his mother started the Born Free Foundation to rescue big cats

Will when he was younger with his parents Virgina McKenna and the late Bill Travers

The Ethicalist: Other children have cats and dogs as pets but you had a lion called Christian. Why was that? Will: When I was 10 my father went to a furniture shop on the King’s Road in London and two Australians, Ace and John, said: ‘We have something to show you in the basement.’ It was a lion cub, about five months old. They had seen him for sale in Harrods and they bought him as they were worried about what would happen to him. Dad brought Christian home and we built a special enclosure in the back garden. He, and Ace and John, lived with us for about five months until Dad managed to persuade the Kenyan government to allow us to return Christian to the wild. A year later, Ace and John went to Kenya to look for Christian and they were approaching some rocks when he appeared and leapt into their arms.

Christian was successfully reintroduced to the wild by George Adamson after being returned to Kenya

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INTERVIEW

Will, aged five, lived in Kenya while his parents were filming Born Free

Christian still recognised them. Their reunion was captured on film, which still gives me goosebumps when I watch it. The Ethicalist: What are the biggest problems that lions face?

Dame Virginia McKenna with one of the lions used in the film

CANNED HUNTING IS TRULY HORRIFIC. THE CUBS ARE TAKEN FROM THEIR MOTHERS AND PEOPLE PAY UP TO $15,000 T0 KILL THEM. THEY HAVE NO CHANCE TO ESCAPE. THEY ARE A GUARANTEED TROPHY. Joy Adamson rescued orphan cub Elsa and then successfully released her into the wild

Will: Canned hunting is horrific. I thought that trophy hunting was bad but canned hunting, where lions are held captive in facilities after they have been bred to be shot, is beyond anything you can imagine. With trophy hunting there is a chance that the lion can get away. These lions have no chance. The cubs are taken away from their mothers at one week old and described as abandoned so that volunteers pay money to come and feed them. Then tourists pay to go for a walk with a lion, as if it is some bucket-list experience, and when the lions are too big to do that anymore, they’re kept in warehouses and marketed worldwide as trophies. You can go on the website, choose your lion to kill and pay between $10,000 – $15,000 (AED 36,730 AED 55,000) to go over to kill it. Sadly, it’s a guaranteed trophy. Thankfully, the government in South Africa has declared an end to this and are forming a panel on how to do that. There are currently around 10,000 – 12,000 lions in these canned hunting captive facilities. We have asked the government if we can be on the panel. In the wild, we are working in protected areas to reduce conflict between humans and lions. If a lion kills a farmer’s livestock, then they will kill the lion in revenge. We have created a community corral – a fence made of thorn branches – which is 97 per cent effective in stopping lion attacks on livestock and has created an atmosphere of greater tolerance from the farmers. The number of wild lions in Kenya is up 25 per cent over the last decade which is a great result. The Ethicalist: Has caring about animals stopped you eating meat? Will: I’m a vegetarian teetering on veganism. We have become so

disconnected from our food. What we see everyday in supermarket aisles is dismembered animals in cellophane but the labels don’t recognise that. They don’t tell us what the meat really is. It says mince, for example, and so there is no correlation between the label, the animal and the slaughtering process. It has been a natural progression for me and my family to abandon meat eating. As humans we have a choice to reduce our footprint and to help the planet. The Ethicalist: What do you think about climate change? Will: We are in an absolute crisis. Animals play a crucial role and we need to protect our forests. Elephants are the gardeners of our forests. They make forests more dynamic and the elephants then sequester seven per cent more carbon. So elephants should be left alone in the forests and that, in itself, would help the planet. The Ethicalist: Tell us about the Year of the Lion – what did you do? Will: Last year would have been my dad’s 100th birthday and so we wanted to honour him while raising awareness and funds. We had our Born Free Forever touring exhibition going around the UK. It is a pride of life-size bronze statues of lions with cubs, adult lions and pairs. There is a lion and lioness called Virginia and Bill after my parents and another pair called Joy and George. All of the lions are for sale – a cub costs around £15,000 (AED 67,420) while a pair is around £130,000 (AED 584,228). All the money raised helps us to care for our rescued lions, which is incredibly expensive – our costs are around £2 million a year (AED 8.9 million) at the moment. We had a gala night, called the Mane Event, where we auctioned off lion-related lots – everything from naming a cub through to a statue. It was an amazing night and the money we raised will help the Born Free Foundation to rescue even more big cats. My dad would have loved it. bornfree.org.uk

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EXCLUSIVE

Natural Beauty Make your home one that is as kind to the planet as it is beautiful with the help of RAK Ceramics

n the world of porcelain, RAK Ceramics is not just a name – it’s a brand that’s becoming synonymous with sustainability. The Global front runner in crafting bathroom furnishings and ceramics for beautiful floors and walls has an impressive commitment to saving the planet. According to the company’s 2022 Sustainability Report, it managed to shrink its carbon footprint by more than 35 thousand tons of CO2 – equivalent to the energy used by 4,000 homes in one year. The Emirati company, that was founded in 1989 and has its headquarters in Ras al Khaimah, is one of the largest ceramics brands in the world, serving clients in more than 150 countries which makes their eco credentials even more remarkable. Treating 100 per cent of their wastewater, and recycling a staggering 70 per cent of it on-site, they’ve also reduced their raw material imports and slashed waste by an impressive 26.6 per cent. That’s not just your typical corporate feat – it’s a commitment to green business. RAK Ceramics believes that technology is the magic ingredient making sustainable development happen. From AI-driven supply chains that say ‘no’ to waste to devices keeping tabs on energy and water consumption, the firm is turning tech into an eco-warrior. But the company’s sustainability journey isn’t just about saving the planet – it’s transforming the way we live and design our own spaces. RAK Ceramic’s Orbit 3Rs tiles are made with up to 95 per cent recycled materials from ceramic tile production waste and their Reuse Quartz Porcelain Tile, due to launch next year, will be the first range of products made from 100 per cent recycled materials. The company even has the certification to prove it – 100 per cent Pre-Consumer Recycled Porcelain Content. So, the next time you think about ceramics, think beyond the tiles. Think about a company that’s using tech and innovation to make your home beautiful and eco-friendly. RAK Ceramics is, quite simply, rewriting the rules.

The Energy Efficient Cooking Range

Handpicked by Michelin starred Chef Massimo Bottura for his sustainable Al Gatto Verde restaurant in Modena, the innovative CookingRAK range is an eco-chef’s dream, offering effortless control via a dedicated app or remote. With a focus on sustainability and cleanliness, CookingRAK was developed for exclusive use with 14.5 mm thick 135.5x305 cm Maximus porcelain stoneware slabs. These slabs resist heat, scratches, and even kill off bacteria, making your kitchen not only safe but durable. Energy efficiency is also a top priority here. The CookingRAK induction system outperforms traditional gas and electric hobs while keeping your countertop cool.

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Recycled Tiles

RAK Ceramics has introduced a game-changer in the world of sustainable design with their Orbit 3Rs tiles. These innovative creations are crafted from an impressive 95 per cent recycled ceramic tile production waste, a tribute to the company’s reduce, reuse, and recycle ethos. This dedication to sustainability shines through in their stunning Carmo Stone, Creative Concrete and Loft Concrete Collections.

The Metamorfosi Collection

Metamorfosi captures the spirit of nature-infused ceramics, showcasing vibrant blues, soft ivories, and delicate pink patterns. Crafted with the environment as inspiration, the range comes in nine colours and 11 patterns allowing you to get creative with your beautiful, botanical interiors.

The Recycling Program

RAK Ceramics’ Sanitaryware Recycling Program is an industry first that breathes new life into old bathroom fixtures. By using technology to recover and repurpose waste bathroom bowls, bidets and basins, RAK ceramics can create beautiful new tiles that are as eco-friendly as they are functional.

SHOWROOMS Ras Al Khaimah Corporate Showroom Dubai Sheikh Zayed Road The new Design Hub in D3, recently opened during Dubai Design Week For all other Emirates, find your nearest showroom by visiting: rakceramics.com/uae/en/store-locator Rakceramics.com

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8 NATURAL WORLD

BEST AND WORST PLACES TO LIVE

To Survive Climate Change As extreme weather makes many places inhospitable because of global warming, climate scientists have listed the top and least desirable places to live according to climate change BY TRIONA MCBRIDE

ven though we were warned by eminent climate scientists as early as the 1970s, it took global governments decades to seriously consider the very real impact of climate change. Since 2020, the worried governments of more than 70 countries have committed to achieving net zero emissions over the next 30 years, but whether they can actually achieve those pledges remains to be seen. For some people, it is already too late. The climate crisis has already had a significant impact on some of the world’s most populated areas. Extreme weather events, such as floods and heat waves, are becoming more common globally. Sea levels are rising, which threatens anyone living in a coastal area. Sweltering temperatures and droughts have recently provoked deadly wildfires near Quebec in Canada, burning through millions of hectares and putting 75 million people at risk of breathing contaminated air. Flooding in countries such as Bangladesh is more unpredictable than it has ever been due to glaciers melting in the Himalayas – a result of global warming.

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According to Mami Mizutori, Special Representative of the UN Secretary-General Office for Disaster Risk Reduction: ‘The number of people exposed to disaster risk is increasing due to population growth in hazard-exposed areas.’

Safe Places

As the world heats up, extreme weather disasters will become more normal. It begs the question: where is best suited to climate migrants, as some people will become? Those who can afford to will flee Africa, Asia and Latin America as their livelihoods, such as farming, are wiped out and the humidity becomes too intense to bear. It’s not a simple answer. Landlocked low-lying countries such as Moldova are susceptible to flooding, which has increased in frequency due to global warming. Nowhere on Earth will be untouched by climate change. The good news is that our planet has plenty of room. We need to gain a fresh perspective on the best (and worst) areas to live based on their access to fresh water, palatable temperatures and places where solar and wind energy is already produced or easily available.

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Top Places To Live In Climate Crisis

Climate scientists and experts have been gathering the data for decades and the following countries regularly come out top

FINLAND

Finland has topped the World Happiness Index for six consecutive years, due to free education, universal healthcare, safety and, of course, saunas. Not only that, but it is on track to be carbon neutral by 2035. The Northern European country also benefits from spectacular forests that cover more than 74 per cent of its land, which makes it less vulnerable to climate change, and a great choice for climate migrants escaping countries that have been ravaged by environmental destruction.

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NATURAL WORLD

NORWAY

According to the ND-GAIN index, which summarises a country’s vulnerability to climate change and other global challenges, this Nordic country tops the table in terms of its readiness to address the climate crisis Cities such as Fredrikstad, where high ramparts of earth protect the city from water breaches, and which provides excellent healthcare, will welcome immigrants from less protected places. The country is the leader in electric and zeroemission cars and 98 per cent of its electrical production comes from renewable energy. Norway is a rich country, and all parties almost wholly agree on how to deal with climate change. As a forward-thinking country, it could reap great rewards as temperatures rise.

SWEDEN Another country that is heavily forested, with over 50 per cent of its land given over to trees, Sweden is a desirable place to live in terms of resources. The country is heavily focused on bringing down emissions, having met its 2020 targets back in 2012. It is also committing to 100 per cent renewable energy production by 2030, and currently uses hydropower and biofuel for at least 73 per cent of its energy consumption. In an effort to further adapt and respond to rising sea levels and global warming, Sweden has also created a council of climate policy experts. Sustainable housing and green innovation are high on the agenda for most people living in the country. Although Sweden will see temperatures rise, its temperate climate is very attractive for those wishing to escape boiling conditions and find a home in this Nordic country.

NEW ZEALAND Antipodeans will be glad to see an option on the list as New Zealand is the only country in the southern hemisphere to make the top 10 of the Notre Dame Global Adaptation (ND-GAIN) Index. The country’s temperate climate means that it won’t be as susceptible to climate change patterns as some other countries. Its abundant natural resources also make it an attractive option for climate migrants, and it is likely to see an influx of people seeking to make a new home.

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Worst Places To Live In Climate Crisis According to Dr Kelly Levin, Chief of Science, Data and Systems Change at Bezos Earth Fund: ‘Developing countries are … uniquely vulnerable,’ because ‘their livelihoods are dependent on natural resources.’ Here, in order, are the worst places to live

KIRIBATI In terms of the worst place to live on Earth due to the effects of climate change, Kiribati tops the list because some of the islands of this Pacific nation are already underwater. The country’s president, Taneti Maamau, pleaded with rich nations to act immediately, stating that ‘a delay of a day means loss for us,’ while speaking at COP27 last year.

HAITI Already battered by Hurricane Matthew in 2016 and the earthquake in 2010, Haiti is struggling to prepare for any natural disasters that may hit in the future. The Caribbean country is very poor, and much of the population relies on agriculture to survive. As a result of rising sea levels, the UN has advised that saltwater may contaminate farmland and freshwater supplies, which would have a ruinous effect on farmers. Finance for Haiti’s climate management initiatives comes entirely from international donors, and while it is substantial, it is not being diverted to areas of priority.

NIGERIA With a coastline of 853 km and most of its major cities located along that coast, Nigeria is already under enormous threat from rising sea levels. Temperatures have been increasing steadily every decade, which is impacting people’s ability to work outdoors and survive. Heat-related illnesses are becoming more common. A combination of frequent, severe droughts and higher temperatures will seriously impact Nigeria’s agriculture industry. If people can’t grow food, then many will starve. Although the government has implemented mitigating measures, Nigeria is still considered highly vulnerable to the effects of climate change.

THE PHILIPPINES Unless the world can adhere to UN temperature goals, a rise of 4.9 degrees Fahrenheit globally could see 86 million people in the Philippines living in areas under extreme warning. The country already experiences many natural disasters including floods, hurricanes, earthquakes and tsunamis. Experts suggest that cities such as Manila could also experience eight per cent less rainfall per year which would compound the water scarcity issues that the population already faces. Its growing city populations, poor infrastructure and the impact that higher temperatures could have on agriculture make the Philippines one of the worst places to live for climate change.

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FASHION

BOLD & BEAUTIFUL BRIGHTS IN LUXE ECO FABRICS SHOW that style and sustainability are always in fashion PHOTOGRAPHER: DAWN MARIE JONES

Island

ueen STYLIST: GEMMA M JONES MAKE UP: SARAH JANE MAKEUP MODEL: KSENIYA STARODUBETS LOCATION: ANANTARA WORLD ISLANDS RESORT

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Johanna Ortiz Shirt, AED 2,659 and Shorts, AED 2,346, Net-a-Porter Stella McCartney Maxi Chain Frayme Hobo Bag AED 6,000

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Q FASHION

Matteau Dress, AED 2,394, Net-a-Porter

Circle Pendant Necklace, AED 2,400 Etika Jewels

Tagua Bead Tote Bag, Artesano, AED 570, Ounass

Stella McCartney Cowboy T-Bar Crystal Sandals AED 4,415

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Gigi Burris Claiborne Hat, AED 1,663, Net-a-Porter Green Cascade Drop Earrings, AED 3,700, and Rainbow Baguette Necklace AED 1,890, both Etika Jewels Stella McCartney Mini Dress in Sunflower, AED 5,810, Net-a-Porter Stella McCartney Mules, AED 2,800, Ounass

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Q Matériel Shorts, AED 2,005, Ounass

Matériel Shirt, AED 2,115, Ounass

Wave Lab Grown Diamond Necklace, AED 4,325, Fyne Jewellery Rings, Etika Jewels

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FASHION

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Q FASHION

Stella McCartney Blazer, AED 5,10, and asymmetric Skirt, AED 3,500, Ounass

Gaia Long Drop Diamond Necklace AED 4,250, and Compass Diamond Necklace, AED 4,895, both Fyne Jewellery

18k Gold Huggies Earrings with Lab Diamonds and Lab Emerald Drops AED 1,806, Etika Jewels

Spikelet Fringe Maxi Dress, AED 3,378, Ounass

Stella McCartney Mini Falabella Tote Bag in Crystal Mesh AED 3,900, Net-a-Porter

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Rhea Waterfall Diamond Ear Climber, AED 1,675, Fyne Jewellery SemSem Red Bustier, AED 3,565, Net-a-Porter Matthew Bruch Wide Leg Pleated Pants, AED 2,400, Ounass

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THE NOT SO SHINY TRUTH ABOUT THE PRIZED FABRIC Up to 3,000 silkworms are boiled alive in their cocoons to make one silk pillowcase: the slippery story of how the luxurious textile is produced BY SARAH FREEMAN

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rowned ‘the queen of textiles’ for its lustrous sheen, silk has been synonymous with wealth and luxury for more than five millennia and at one time was worth its weight in gold. Five times stronger than steel, it remains one of the world’s most durable natural fibres. And while most people have heard of The Silk Road – the famed network of caravan trading routes from China to Europe along which goods were conveyed for more than 1,500 years – few are familiar with how the fabric is actually made. If they did, silk wouldn’t be so coveted. Spiders and most orders of insects make silk, but none can match the prolificacy of silkworms. Technically speaking it’s not a worm, rather a mulberry tree-eating larva. Using a protein secreted from specialized glands, the caterpillars spin raw silk to make their cotton-bud-like-cocoons for their magical transformation into winged moths. Sadly, it’s a metamorphosis that millions never get to make because of humans’ lust for the luxurious textile.

Thousands of silkworms are killed to make a single silk pillowcase. Just 1lb of silk equates to the slaughter of between 2–3,000 silkworms Industrious Weaving Machines

Farmed from its wild Chinese cousin circa 3,500 BCE (Before the Common Era), the silkworm is one of only two insects on the planet – the other being bees – to have been domesticated by humans. In their native Northern China, wild silkworms emerge from the cocoon as scaly fourwinged moths. But 5,000 years of domestication has rendered these insects blind and unable to fly. The ancient practice of growing silkworms for the manufacture of silk is known as sericulture. Now a multibillion-dollar global industry, China produces 80 per cent of the world’s silk, while India is the leading consumer. Silk farms breed, rear and harvest silkworms from egg to cocoon in two months, normally indoors at temperatures of 25-31°C. These ‘caterpillar cows’ munch on trays of mulberry leaves in their millions before spinning their protective cocoon over three to eight days. Each cocoon is unravelled into a single thread of silk – which can extend to the length of ten football fields – that is then wound into skeins of silk. The smoothest fabric results from

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reeling the thread in one continuous piece known as a filament, which is dubbed ‘the Rolls-Royce of silk’.

Baked to Death

But while the material might be considered beautiful, the truth about its production is anything but. The uncomfortable reality is that thousands of silkworms are killed to make a single silk pillowcase. One pound of silk equates to the slaughter of 2-3,000 silkworms. In the wild, silkworm moths live for roughly seven days after emerging through a small opening that they bore into their cocoon. In this short time, they’ll find a mate and produce eggs. But domesticated larvae, also known as bombyx mori, never get the chance to mature into moths. To guarantee the pupa doesn’t damage its precious cocoon, it is locked like a prisoner in its self-made silk cradle. The cocoons are kept intact by either dropping them into boiling water, or through a process called stifling, which steams the pupae alive. Humans have actually altered the course of silkworms’ evolution. Domesticated females are so weighed down with eggs they can hardly walk, while their atrophied wings mean they can no longer survive in the wild. It’s little wonder that PETA has called for a ban on silk.

A Moral Dilemma

But the ethics of commercial silk production is contentious, with questions raised over whether silkworms feel pain at all since they are invertebrates. However, insects do have a central nervous system and a brain, albeit a simplified version of their vertebrate cousins. Despite being one of the most persecuted living species on the planet, animal welfare protections rarely acknowledge insects. But change could be afoot. Last year, the UK Government added a number of invertebrates (including octopus and lobsters) to a new bill that recognizes sentient animals. Mounting evidence suggests that insects may be capable of feeling pain after all. The lead author of a recently

Silk needs dry cleaning which uses harmful solvents

published review article in scientific journal Proceedings of the Royal Society B: Biological Sciences, told Newsweek: ‘It is conceivable that insects have evolved a similar pathway to deal with feelings of pain.’

A Thirsty Fibre

Untreated silk may be entirely biodegradable, but the fabric’s ecological footprint ranks worryingly high. According to the Higg Index, developed by the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, it has the worst environmental impact of any textile. A staggering 50 per cent of the energy used in the fabric’s production is attributed to the manufacture of fertilisers and irrigating mulberry trees, with around 11.25 tons of leaves needed to produce 40kg of raw silk, according to not-for-profit trade association The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). It’s estimated that one metric ton of silk

requires approximately 1,000 metric tons of water to produce (that’s more than much-demonised cotton), with untreated water often dumped in local waterways where it can harm the regional communities. Also wreaking havoc are carcinogenic silk dyes, which can leach into local water supplies, as well as the noxious fumes created by boiling the cocoons. And the damage doesn’t end with the fabric’s manufacture. Most silk requires dry cleaning which uses harmful solvents including the potentially deadly perchloroethylene. One small silver lining, however, is that the fabric doesn’t shed harmful microplastics like its synthetic siblings when washed. In fact, silk is now being touted as a substitute for microplastics, with one study even proposing the recycling of cocoons that are rejected for not meeting textile quality. Beyond its

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aesthetic function, silk’s unique qualities are being exploited as a biomaterial for everything from optical and mechanical implants to surgical sutures. But as PETA says: ‘Humane alternatives to silk — including nylon, silk-cotton tree and ceiba tree filaments, polyester, and rayon— are easy to find and usually less expensive than silk, too.’

Humans have actually altered the course of silkworms’ evolution. Domesticated females are so weighed down with eggs they can hardly walk, while their atrophied wings mean they can no longer survive in the wild

Sustainable Silk

Textile innovation is already playing a pivotal role in the production of vegan silk alternatives. Biotech company Bolt Threads has engineered a micro-silk from a blend of yeast, sugar and water, produced through fermentation, that Patagonia and Adidas are already championing. Meanwhile High Street brand H&M’s sustainable Conscious Collection has featured ‘orange silk’ created from citrus juice by-products. Other big names boycotting animalderived silk include British online fast fashion retailer ASOS and labels such as the luxury sleep and loungewear brand niLuu. Their PETA-approved Cupro silk is made from a cotton waste called

niLuu uses PETA-approved Cupro silk for their luxury line

The silkworm pupae are boiled alive, trapped in their cocoons, so they don’t damage the silk

linter. Founder Nilüfer Bracco tells The Ethicalist: ‘I was inspired to build a brand that provides silk-wear products that look and feel great, but that are also gentle on our planet, our society, and all living things.’ Unfortunately, a lack of certification remains a challenge when shopping for so-called ‘vegetarian silks’, also known as ‘Peace’ or ‘Ahimsa’. Developed in India, the mostly hand-spun fabric is still extracted from domesticated silkworms, but only after the moth has completed its full metamorphosis. The result is a less-shiny textured silk, owing to the moths hatching naturally. While it’s preferable to wearing a silk dress produced from 2 -3,000 unbroken

cocoons, these silks aren’t vegan, whereas Tencel and bamboo silk, a natural viscose, are. For consumers not ready to slip permanently out of that chic blouse, you can still buy responsibly by choosing garments coloured with low-impact dyes or certified by the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), the world’s leading standard for textiles, made from organic fibres. In reality, transitioning to plantbased silks is the only sure-fire way to shop sustainably. With fabric innovation, the backing of fashion retailers and mindful consumer buying, sericulture’s 5,000-year-old practice could then be consigned to the history books, once and for all.

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COP28

As the host of COP28, the global climate change summit, taking place at Expo City, Dubai, between 30 November – 12 December, the world will be looking at the City of Gold to create a greener future BY TRIONA MCBRIDE

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ome to the world’s tallest building, the largest shopping mall that would take days to explore, and the only so-called ‘seven star’ hotel on the planet, it’s no wonder Dubai is known as the City of Gold. But the dazzling emirate is about to hit the headlines as the host of COP28, the most important annual gathering of leaders and experts to address the climate crisis, and the world’s united approach to it, making Dubai the global green capital from late November until 12 December. The UN’s Conference of Parties will be held in Dubai’s ‘future-centric’ Expo City and this year’s event has an added milestone as the first Global Stocktake (GST) will take place, reviewing the real progress that has been made from all of the pledges drawn up during The Paris Agreement, a legally binding treaty that was adopted by 196 countries in December 2015. The signatories vowed to hold the increase in the global average temperatures to ‘well below 2C above pre-industrial levels’, and even try to lower it, so this

‘COP28 is the most significant event being held in the UAE this year. If it delivers all the ambitions outlined it would be one of the most important summits in history stocktake will determine if the countries have lived up to their promises. In a year where we have witnessed some of the dramatic effects of climate change, from the highest July temperatures in 120,000 years to wildfires in Canada, Greece, Italy, Spain and Portugal during the summer, and the devasting loss of fish and coral in an unprecedented marine heatwave, the topic has rarely been out of the news. More people than ever are seeking solutions, leading to increased pressure on the UAE in its first role hosting the international climate summit.

A Beacon for Change

While it’s certain that the UAE is more than equipped to host such a large event, thanks to its infrastructure, green transport options, including the Dubai Metro, and extensive accommodation suitable for all types of visitors, COP28, will also give the emirates the opportunity to demonstrate how it is pursuing alternative methods of powering the economy other than fossil fuels. Having displayed considerable commitment to slashing greenhouse gas emissions and enhancing energy efficiency, as well as being home to the International Renewable Energy Agency (IRENA)

that supports 168 countries and the European Union in transiting towards a greener future, the UAE’s continued focus on climate action as a top priority should silence critics. The UAE has also heavily invested in developing world-class facilities for research and development in clean technologies and energy. Showcasing projects such as the LEED platinum-rated Innovation Centre by DEWA – where delegates can witness hologram and drone shows on solar power and other renewable technology, and Masdar City, a blueprint for sustainable urban living – on a global stage highlights just how just how the emirates has been addressing the challenges that climate change presented over the past few decades. Beyond its own borders, the UAE has invested in renewable energy projects across six continents, spending more than $17 billion so far. Special attention has been given to programmes in lowincome and developing nations, with more than 70 countries benefitting. Not only is the UAE a regional pioneer in sustainability and energy, but it has the potential to become a global hub in cleantech. There is fertile ground for start-ups with established infrastructure and access to investment from the region. Noting that hosting COP28 is a ‘living testament’ to the UAE’s achievements on climate change, on both a national and international scale, earlier this year Mariam bint Mohammed Almheiri, the UAE Minister of Climate Change and Environment, explained how a ‘united strategy… across a spectrum of stakeholders,’ helps support bold plans such as cutting emissions 40 per cent by 2030. She also mentioned the ‘surge in collaborative endeavours with the local community and the private sector, all aimed at bolstering the UAE’s environmental initiatives,’ as complementing the emirate’s progress towards Net Zero.

COP28 President-Designate and UAE Special Envoy for Energy and Climate Change, Dr Sultan Ahmed Al Jaber, meets EU Council President Charles Michel in Brussels, in June 2023

Star Power

Though a formal list of attendees has yet to be released, there are some certainties about who will be present. World leaders including US President Joe Biden, UK Prime Minister Rishi Sunak and President of the United Arab Emirates, His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Zayed Al Nahyan will all be there, alongside figureheads such as Britain’s King Charles, a committed environmentalist. Barbados’ Prime Minister Mia Mottley, who made a rousing speech at COP26, is also expected to be present. Celebrities including fashion designer Stella McCartney and Hollywood actor Leonardo DiCaprio, both known for their green credentials, have been spotted at previous COP events, so they could make an appearance this year. Actress Salma Hayek, who sits on the board of the non-profit Global Green USA, is another possible attendee, along with passionate environmentalists, actors Emma Watson and Mark Ruffalo. According to the summit agenda, on Stella McCartney could attend COP28

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Salma Hayek and Leonardo DiCaprio could attend this year’s summit in the UAE

8 December the entire day revolves around youth when the COP28 presidency will welcome the largest group of young delegates to date. This would have been the perfect opportunity to introduce the world’s most famous climate activist, Greta Thunberg, 20, but she is unlikely to attend. She made the front pages at COP24 in Poland when she was 15, telling world leaders we ‘are running out of time’. But she has decided in recent years that her efforts at the summits aren’t having the desired effect. In 2021, Greta led protests outside COP26 in Glasgow, while she refused to attend last year’s event in Egypt.

Who is the President-Designate?

Dr Sultan bin Ahmed Al Jaber, the UAE’s Minister of Industry and Advanced Technology, and Special Envoy for Climate Change, has been handed the presidency role for the summit. As founding CEO for Masdar, the renewable energy company, he has overseen the investment of more than $30 billion in global projects, including the London Array, a huge wind farm off the UK coast, capable of producing enough energy to power 500,000 homes. Speaking in London in July, Dr Al Jaber, who is also group CEO of the Abu Dhabi National Oil Company (ADNOC Group), said this year’s summit would be, ‘a COP that will deliver real and achievable results through action and unity.’ He also suggested that nations need to ‘incentivise’ investors through policy, noting red tape is slowing down the development of renewable energy solutions in some countries. While laying out his plan of action in Brussels this year, Dr Al Jaber named the four pillars covering the main priorities for COP28. These are: fast-tracking the transition to a low-CO2 world, fixing climate finance, focusing on people, lives and livelihoods, and full inclusivity. The final pillar is key for Dr Al Jaber, who hopes to see more youth groups, women and indigenous people at this year’s summit. His passion and commitment have been wellreceived by experts around the world, with Bob Ward, policy director at the Grantham Institute for Climate Change at the London School of Economics, stating: ‘If COP28 does deliver all the ambitions outlined, it would be one of the most important summits in history.’ Others note that Dr Al Jaber’s plans to bring oil companies into the conversation constructively could pave the way to a cleaner, greener future.

2023’s Most Important Event

As His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Ruler of Dubai and Vice President and Prime Minister of the UAE, observed, COP28 is the most signficant event in the UAE this year. It may also be when the world finally sees beyond the glitz to its endeavours in pursuit of a better future for the planet.

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Turtle Sheikh Sea turtles have been swimming in our waters for over 100 million years even surviving the mass extinction that killed off dinosaurs, but the world’s oldest species is now under serious threat BY ANTHEA AYACHE

Photo: Chris Chellapermal

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t was the peculiar movements of the sea turtle that Sheikh Fahim Al Qasimi noticed first while out on a free diving trip off the island marine reserve of Sir Bu Nuair, a protected area 100km west of Dubai. The green turtle, who was seven metres underwater, seemed to be struggling to reach the surface, sending alarm bells ringing that she may, in fact, be drowning. As a marine enthusiast, Sheikh Fahim was no stranger to the fact that sea turtles require oxygen. These ancient reptiles do not have gills, and cannot extract oxygen directly from the water, but – depending on the species – sea turtles can hold their breath from anywhere between 45 minutes to seven hours. Equipped with this knowledge, Sheikh Fahim decided to investigate, taking a deep breath before plunging down to help the visibly distressed sea turtle. It was at two metres from the surface, as he attempted to hoist her 18kg weight up for air, that he felt the tug of the discarded fishing line that was wrapped around her flipper and neck, securing her to the seabed. ‘I grabbed a knife, cut her free and got to the surface, for both of us to have a really big breath,’ the Sharjah Royal tells The Ethicalist. ‘I don’t know how long she had been under there for, but it was long enough for the fishing wire to wrap around her flipper about 40 times. It had cut through all the way to the bone.’

The Turtle Sheikh

Known affectionately in the UAE as the Turtle Sheikh for his endeavours to save the UAE’s endangered species, Sheikh Fahim’s intervention secured the survival of the turtle he named Farah. While the extensive wounds meant that her right flipper required amputation, the 20-year-old sea turtle was, nonetheless, rehabilitated at the Dubai Turtle Rehabilitation Project (DTRP), based out of the Burj Al Arab and Jumeirah Al Naseem hotels. Farah was one of the lucky ones. Under the care of a world-class team of vets, the turtle was taught to dive, feed and swim again before being released back into the Arabian Sea seven months later. ‘The water is brought in directly from the sea and it is filled with jellyfish and angelfish that come and swim in there so it is an extension of

Photo: DTRC

‘People think it’s a good idea to take a knife and remove the barnacles from turtles themselves. They don’t understand that turtles feel pain, that it causes bleeding, and it causes infections’ Sheikh Fahim Al Qasimi, Ambassador Dubai Turtle Rehabilitation Project the ocean,’ says Sheikh Fahim. ‘It is as close as the turtles can get to their natural habitat.’

Local Waters

The Arabian Gulf sustains a range of marine ecosystems that provide an annual habitat for endangered green, loggerhead and leatherback turtles and also welcomes hawksbills and olive ridley sea turtles, both classified as critically endangered by the International Union for Conservation of Nature’s Red List. ‘We released an olive ridley with a tracker back in April,’ says Sheikh Fahim. ‘It went straight through the Strait of Hormuz, but then hopped across to the Iranian side of the coast. We even had a turtle that swam from here to Thailand! ‘The key message is that these turtles are coming from all over the world into the Gulf, so we have to be good stewards of these waters.’ Of the seven species of turtles found in the world’s oceans, five swim in the UAE’s warm, shallow waters. ‘The most common species of turtle found in the UAE, the green turtle, is considered endangered,’ explains Emirates Nature-WWF marine biologist Arabella Willing. ‘The only species that nests in the Arabian Gulf, the hawksbill turtle, is considered critically endangered and the third species we see mostly on the east coast, the log-

gerhead turtle, is also considered to be critically endangered in this region.’ The hawksbill turtle, which has seen a global decline in numbers of 80 per cent over the last century, has an estimated global population of just 8,000 nesting females left, and according to WWF, there are only five populations around the world with more than 1,000 females nesting annually. They are known to nest in some of the UAE’s 15 marine protected areas including in Abu Dhabi, at Saadiyat Island and the Marawah Marine Biosphere Reserve, and at the Jebel Ali Marine Reserve in Dubai. ‘Although there is a lot of work being done to study and protect the marine turtles in the UAE,’ explains Arabella, ‘we still need support for all of our conservation efforts.’

Turtle Threats

Protected areas are crucial to ensure the survival of turtles which have roamed our seas and beaches since the time of the dinosaurs nearly 100 million years ago. Their marine ecosystem is under serious threat from humanrelated activities that include abandoned fishing nets, marine debris, plastic pollution, over-exploitation for meat, eggs and shells, vessel strikes from fishermen and recreational boat owners, and the destruction of turtle habitats from coastal developments

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CHANGE MAKERS

and rising sea temperature due to climate change. ‘Unfortunately, turtles face a lot of threats,’ Arabella explains. ‘Development along the coast means that nesting beaches, foraging reefs and seagrass meadows are being lost to construction. Similarly, noise and light pollution, because of beach-front activity, disturbs the turtles nesting. Pollution in the water, including vast amounts of plastic and discarded fishing gear are also serious threats.’

Sheikh Fahim Al Qasami with a rescued turtle

Deadly Plastic

Entanglement caused by nets, discarded fishing lines, and plastic bags pose catastrophic threats to the turtles’ continued survival. Research by the University of Exeter, in England, which examined the way plastics affect mortality rates for sea turtles internationally, found that 91 per cent of turtles entangled in discarded fishing gear die, while it’s reported that fishing nets kill one million turtles globally a year. Currently, it is estimated there are between 75 - 199 million tons of plastic in oceans around the world, which is tragic news for all marine life, but especially turtles that are particularly susceptible to the effects of consuming marine debris due to their structure. They have downward facing spines in their throats to allow them to swallow jellyfish easily, but it also prevents the possibility of regurgitation when they swallow plastic bags. According to one study conducted by WWF in Australia, 52 per cent of all turtles globally have ingested plastic, a frightening statistic when you consider that a turtle has a 22 per cent chance of dying if it eats just one piece. ‘Plastic bags look like jellyfish and turtles love jellyfish, so they will try to eat them,’ explains Sheikh Fahim. ‘I have seen the insides of turtles, postmortem, and I can assure you it’s horrific when you see what they eat. Their

stomachs become compacted; the plastic is like cement.’

Cold-Stunning

Around 2,000 turtles have been nurtured back to health by the Dubai Turtle Rehabilitation Project

But there is one threat that, for once, is not linked to human activity. In this region turtles are susceptible to coldstunning where they become weak and inactive from exposure to low temperatures. Turtles are cold-blooded and gain their body heat from their surrounding environment. Young turtles, in particular, are affected by the colder sea temperatures during the winter which makes them sluggish. This enables barnacles and oysters to attach to their shells, weighing them down and preventing the turtle from diving or swimming. It also means they are too cold and weak to eat, drink or swim and so winds and currents carry them to shore. A total of 200 cold-stunned turtles were rescued from Abu Dhabi waters at the start of this year by the emirate’s environmental sector regulator, the Environment Agency Abu Dhabi (EAD), in collaboration with The National Aquarium. ‘The majority of turtles that we get at the centre are cold-stunned turtles,’ explains Sheikh Fahim. ‘You’ll see them floating around or washing up on a beach and the main thing we tell people when they find a cold-stunned turtle is not to try to remove the barnacles themselves because the process requires marine expertise.’ While the efforts of those trying to help cold-stunned and distressed turtles is appreciated, Sheikh Fahim warns against heroics. ‘People think that it’s a good idea to take a knife and remove the barnacles themselves. They don’t understand that turtles feel pain, that it causes bleeding, it causes infections. And then they put the turtle back in the water, but they don’t know

that it’s cold-stunned, which means the turtle is still going to wash back up on a beach in the next 24 hours.’ What the turtles need is expert care where vets place them in monitored freshwater for a period long enough for the barnacles to fall off, relocate them to the lagoons at DTRP, where they are fed, and given time to energise before being released back out into the ocean once the water temperature has risen. Around 300 cold-stunned turtles are found stranded on the emirate’s shores every year with similar numbers found in Dubai. Sheikh Fahim explains that anyone finding an injured or distressed turtle should wrap it in a wet towel and call for experienced help. While no memorable phone number existed before, he created 800 TURTLE (800 887853) last year.

Rescue Line

‘800TURTLE directly links you to the Dubai Turtle Rehabilitation Project,’ he explains. ‘It’s been launched across the country so that anybody who finds a turtle can now pick up the phone, call 800TURTLE, and it will go straight through to the experts who will find a way to ensure the turtle is rescued.’ The DTRP, which was established in 2004 and is run in conjunction with Dubai’s Wildlife Protection Office, offers essential veterinary support provided by the Dubai Falcon Hospital and the Central Veterinary Research Laboratory. The project has returned more than 2,000 turtles to the sea from all over the UAE. And with the introduction of 800TURTLE their reach has been extended. Since the launch of the memorable direct line 56 turtles that were found washed up in the UAE have been rescued. If Farah could communicate, no doubt she would be proud of the legacy her survival has spurred in her rescuer, Sheikh Fahim. For his part, he is openly emotional about the life-changing rescue. ‘We got the chance to release Farah, and, honestly, I cried my eyes out for an hour or two,’ the Sheikh admits. ‘We put a tracker on her to ensure she was coping OK out there, and I still check in on her every single day. Farah has found a safe haven in a marine conservation area near Abu Dhabi, and she’s thriving there. It really is amazing.’

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Sky full of

STARS From traditional Bedouin-style tents, retro trailers and private igloos, the UAE has some of the most luxurious glamping experiences in the world BY HAYLEY ALEXANDER

Hatta Sedr Trailers Resort

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STAYCATIONS

lamping is an increasingly popular way to get up close to nature in the great outdoors without compromising on life’s little and yet luxurious comforts. And the UAE, with its raw but beautful landscapes and first-class amenities, is the perfect destination to try it – right on our doorstep. But choosing glamping over staying in a five-star bricks-and-mortar resort doesn’t just mean getting away for a fun-filled weekend in the wild – it allows you to reconnect with nature while doing your bit for the planet, too. Hotel stays generally come with a substantial carbon footprint (on average 40kg CO2 per night), but glamping uses far fewer resources and so makes a smaller environmental impact. Sustainable materials are typically used to build the pods, cabins and large tents favoured by glamping companies while you won’t need to fly to the site, and can drive an electric or shared vehicle there for an incredible night under the stars. So, if you’re looking to make the most of the UAE’s natural landscapes and cooler climate now that winter is here, here are some of our favourite luxury glamping spots for an eco-friendly staycation.

Hatta Sedr Trailers Resort These family-friendly trailers are perfect for couples and families looking for a fun, yet quiet stay in nature. Hatta Sedr Trailers Resort, in the Hajar Mountains, is home to the region’s first vintagestyle trailer hotel where guests can camp near the stunning Hatta Dam. The grounds offer modern amenities, including a Sedr Bites food truck onsite, the Hatta Hub for plenty of kids’ activities, free water and complimentary Wi-Fi – although you’ll be having so much fun you’ll only want to connect to the ’gram to show-off those nature-selfies. The surrounding mountains offer a plethora of opportunities for hiking and mountain biking while the nearby Hatta Dam provides a picturesque spot for water sports. visithatta.com

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Escape to Dubai's only

Mountain Resort

For the ultimate escape from the city and plenty of space to roam, Dubai’s first and only mountain resort, JA Hatta Fort Hotel features 54 rooms and 23 Terra Cabins nestled amidst the majestic Hajar Mountains. Located a mere 90-minute scenic drive from central Dubai, the hotel also offers sumptuous dining experiences, two outdoor pools and a range of activities including animal life encounters perfect for both laid-back relaxation and exciting exploration.

Book direct on JAresorts.com

jahattaforthotel

STAYCATIONS

The Nest by Sonara

The Nest by Sonara The Nest by the award-winning team behind Dubai’s popular Sonara Camp, offers 14 structures that blend seamlessly into the dunes of the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve. Glamping sites usually offer accommodation that is far more spacious and sophisticated than traditional camping tents, and Sonara takes this idea to the next level. Each of their 14 ‘nests’ come complete with a large bedroom area, rich furnishings with rustic touches, a private en-suite bathroom, complimentary minibar, outdoor majlis for enjoying the sunset and stargazing, and a dedicated butler. Activities at the glamping resort include sand boarding, astrology lessons and spotting the local wild oryx and gazelles as they stroll past your luxury accommodation. nara.ae

Moon Retreat by Sharjah Collection Switch off and reconnect with nature at the stunning Moon Retreat by Sharjah Collection. This award-winning glamping spot, just a short drive from the bustling streets of Dubai and Sharjah, offers glamping aficionados an otherworldly experience without disrupting the pre-historic landscape. Nestled in the rugged Mleiha Fossil Rock desert, home to historic Bronze Age tombs, and plenty of fascinating

artefacts and fossils, this getaway has ten luxurious private tents, four family tents and two single-bed tents – and most come complete with a temperature-controlled private pool, air conditioning, and a luxurious private bathroom. This eco-friendly glamping retreat allows you to explore the surrounding fossil rocks and desert by day with nature activities including archery and trekking, or even take a trip to nearby Kalba to see the 300-year-old Mangroves, while giving you the opportunity to dine and relax under a canopy of stars at night. sharjahcollection.ae

Terra Solis Tucked away in the Arabian Dunes, near Dubai Heritage Vision, is Terra Solis brought to you by the organisers of one of the biggest music festivals in the world, Tomorrowland. Tents here are spacious and don’t skimp on luxury, offering a unique and unforgettable way to connect with nature. For those looking for a night under the stars, Bedouin-style tents dot the dunes with a king or queen bed, A/C and a sink. Those looking for a little more luxury can choose one of the lodges, which offer a comfortable bed, bathroom and all the little luxuries of a 5-star hotel but with panoramic views of the desert on your doorstep. terrasolisdubai.com

Above and here: Moon Retreat by Sharjah Collection

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STAYCATIONS

Desert Paradise: Terra Solis

reserve on two wheels on complimentary bicycles or enjoy gentle nature walks, tree-planting and mangrove exploration trips. There are also water activities galore for everyone to enjoy including snorkelling, dolphin spotting, kayaking and canoeing. babalnojoum.com

Hatta Dome Park

Bab Al Nojoum, Al Mugheirah Resort

Hatta Dome Park

Sleep under the stars at Bab Al Nojoum – Al Mugheirah Resort, the perfect retreat for both couples and groups of friends. Take your pick from a classic silver Airstream caravan or intelligently-designed cabin with a plunge pool and enjoy a barbecue while watching the sunset over the Al Mugheirah nature reserve. There’s plenty to do here for all ages. Tour the

This uber chic glamping park allows people to be at one with nature while still having access to the amenities they are used to, making it a great option for those who love the idea of camping but don’t want to give up their creature comforts. Settle in for an unforgettable night under the stars at Hatta Dome Park, with its back-tonature vibes set against the backdrop of Hatta’s stunning mountain views. There are 15 glamping tents available, each with panoramic windows, a big, private outdoor terrace and many of the amenities you’d expect from a luxury five-star hotel including a chic, minimalist bathroom and top-of-therange furnishings. Take advantage of the nearby Hatta Wadi Hub for some nature-inspired activities including mountain biking, karting, zip lining, and paragliding. With such amazing scenery, Hatta Dome Park is the perfect place for all the family to have fun and chill. visithatta.com

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Follow us for a chic, eco-friendly twist on beauty, fashion, travel and more! Get the latest news and trends that blend style with sustainability and transform your feed into a hub of environmental inspiration with our modern, green lifestyle brand.

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@ethicalistmag

2023/11/10 09:41

FEATURE

T e k a

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o T e

S e h T

s e i k

The future of transport is almost here with experts predicting there will be 430,000 flying vehicles in operation by 2040, and Dubai wants to be at the forefront BY NICK HARDING

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FEATURE

lying vehicles have long been confined to the imagination of filmmakers. From the cartoon The Jetsons to Back to the Future and the dystopian blockbuster Blade Runner, the only way to get around in the future – on celluloid at least – has been by taking to the skies in small electric flying cars. Now, these movie images are close to becoming reality as numerous models of eVTOL (electric vertical take-off and landing vehicle), many of which have been in development for up to a decade, come close to commercial production. Some of the world’s biggest companies are investing in fleets of these flying vehicles, including Uber and Boeing. In the past decade, eVTOL development has suddenly taken off, enabled by technological advances in areas including aeronautics, drone development, battery powered vehicle design and AI coding. Futurologists predict that in the next few years there will be an eVTOL goldrush as several prototypes come to market. The driving force behind this dash is the perfect storm of increasingly congested roads and a move away from fossil fuels to more sustainable forms of transport. The size of the exciting opportunity being presented by futuristic eVTOL travel, particularly in urban areas, is recognised by the huge investments being made in eVTOL design and development. Aerospace companies, car manufacturers and technology businesses are all vying for a big slice of the pie. The first eVTOL aircrafts are expected to enter commercial service around 2025. They will be piloted, but unmanned versions could also be introduced within a decade. Experts predict that by 2040 there will be 430,000 flying vehicles in operation around the world and Dubai is in the race to be the first city to launch a commercial eVTOL service.

Global Leader

Earlier this year Dubai-based business and sightseeing operator Falcon Aviation Services announced a partnership with one of the major eVTOL manufacturers, Eve Air

Mobility, a subsidiary of Brazilian aerospace company Embraer. Falcon expects to receive the first of up to 35 Eve aircraft in 2026, and plans to begin flying sightseeing tours from Atlantis, The Palm – Dubai’s iconic waterfront hotel. Falcon is also working with local stakeholders to lay the foundations for a wider urban air mobility network within the UAE. Eventually the company hopes to operate business flights between sites within a 120km radius. Captain Ramandeep Oberoi, Chief Operating Officer of Falcon, said: ‘We are ecstatic to partner with Eve and be the first operator of eVTOL in Dubai and the MENA region. The launch of this concept fully aligns with the Smart Dubai vision and will contribute to positioning Dubai as a global leader in sustainable Urban Air Mobility transportation.’ Andre Stein, co-CEO of Eve, added: ‘We are thrilled to have the immense opportunity to enable the future urban mobility in the UAE and launch eVTOL flights in Dubai.’ Any eVTOL commercial venture will rely on infrastructure and a network of ‘vertiports’ from which vehicles can take off, land and recharge. But as the eVTOL vehicles are small, typically carrying four passengers, vertiports could be located on the top of buildings. Dubai has hot competition to be the first commercial eVTOL operator, however. There are currently around 250 companies involved in the research and development of electric flying vehicles and the infrastructure to use them. In September, United Airlines announced an order for 200 of Eve’s vehicles, expecting the first deliveries to arrive in 2026, and plans to use its fleet for short range passenger transportation.

Batman Car

United Airlines Ventures president Michael Leskinen says the agreement highlights the airline’s confidence in the urban air mobility market. ‘We believe our suite of clean energy technologies will revolutionize air travel as we know it and serve as the catalyst for the aviation industry to move toward a sustainable future,’ he said. Meanwhile the world’s largest aircraft maker, Airbus, is developing its own eVTOL. The CityAirbus

Inside Eve Air Mobility’s first eVTOL cabin

NextGen will be a battery-powered flying vehicle with eight propellers, eight electric motors and a V-shaped tail, which the company says will increase safety. It will hold four passengers, cruise at speeds of 120 km/h (75 mph) and have a range of 80 km (50 miles). Airbus calls the concept ‘a design that Batman could be seen flying in’. Airbus Helicopters, the part of the company charged with developing these flying vehicles, is building a test centre in Donauwörth, Germany, where prototype aircraft will be tested before the maiden flight. The company has already developed and flown an experimental single seat autonomous eVTOL, the Vahana, which was developed from a sketch on a napkin to a full-scale flying aircraft in two years. The eight electric motors and tandem tilt-wing configuration enabled Vahana to achieve both vertical take-off and landing, as well as cross-city flight range on battery power alone. It took its final test flight in Oregon, USA, in 2019 after flying more than 138 full-scale test flights. All of its objectives were met: to achieve all-electric vertical flight, autonomy and prove the business case for eVTOLs. Another prototype that has completed flight tests and is nearing production stage is the Ehang 184, a Chinese flying vehicle that is being marketed as the world’s first dronetaxi. It is designed to be autonomous and can travel for 23 minutes on a battery charge to deliver a passenger

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FEATURE

United Airlines announced an order for 200 of Eve’s vehicles. It expects the first deliveries to arrive from 2026

‘WE BELIEVE OUR SUITE OF CLEAN ENERGY TECHNOLOGIES WILL REVOLUTIONIZE AIR TRAVEL AS WE KNOW IT AND SERVE AS THE CATALYST FOR THE AVIATION INDUSTRY TO MOVE TOWARD A SUSTAINABLE FUTURE’

Joby Aviation says that the beginning of the emissions-free aviation era is almost here Photo: Facebook

and luggage load of up to 230 kg up to 15 km. More than 1,000 test flights have been conducted in varying weather conditions. The drone is equipped with a hazard detection system, and passengers can take control of it in emergencies. An Ehang drone-taxi will cost $200,000 (AED 734,520). US firm Joby Aviation’s eVTOL is also close to market. The $1.2bn (AED 4.41bn) California-based business has carried out more than 1,000 test flights of its piloted craft, which has zero operating emissions. The Joby eVTOL is bigger than the

Ehang’s. It can carry four passengers and travels at a top speed of 321 km/h (200mph) with a range of 241 km (150 miles). It could take passengers from Downtown Manhattan to JFK Airport in seven minutes, a journey which takes 49 minutes by car. The company hopes to get approval from US regulator, the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA), to begin commercial operations in 2024 and recently applied for certification in the UK, a key market. ‘We envisage offering our aerial ride-sharing service from locations near to where people live, work and

want to go,’ says Joby spokesperson Oliver Walker-Jones. ‘We are working closely with cities to ensure our service connects to other modes of transit, co-locating skyports with train stations, airports and various other hubs.’ The company also has a partnership with the US Defence Department. The U.S. Marine Corps are testing flying vehicles for uses including resupply, and relocation of personnel, along with emergency medical response applications. As more manufacturers near the production stage of their projects so the need for infrastructure and regulation becomes more urgent. This could ultimately be the issue that holds up the roll out of the next generation technology. Both vehicles and operators will need to be certified while rules of operation will need to be established before any passengers can hop on board.

Passenger Confidence

Even with the right infrastructure and regulations in place, perhaps the biggest hurdle operators will face will be passenger confidence. Commercial eVTOL companies will need to lure customers away from ground-based taxis and into the skies. For this reason, safety will be paramount. All eyes will be on the first services, and they will need to be faultless, as Brandon Robinson, CEO of eVTOL developer Horizon Aircraft admits. ‘There is much global debate around the safety requirements of eVTOL aircraft, with some commentators, for example, saying they should be twice as safe as driving a car, or have safety records on a par with helicopters,’ he says. ‘The safety bar must be set much higher so that potential passengers, regulators, and other stakeholders have the highest possible levels of confidence in the first eVTOL aircraft. This is absolutely essential to the sector for reaching its full potential.’ Within this context it is easy to see why operators have been carefully working on their designs for over ten years and why developers such as Joby and Ehang have such extensive testing processes. The promise of environmentally-friendly, quick and easy transportation is tantalising, but above all these flying vehicles need to be safe and reliable.

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WILL WE HAVE

FISHLESS OCEANS

BY 2048?

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REPORT

Thirty per cent of our oceans have already been pushed beyond their biological limits so will overfishing drive fish past the point of no return by 2048?

BY SARAH FREEMAN

e always talk about there being ‘plenty more fish in the sea’ and our oceans are always perceived as inexhaustible. An ecosystem covering almost three quarters of our planet, it appears too vast and too deep to possibly be in peril. Silently and steadfastly, oceans have absorbed more than 90 per cent of global warming created by humans since the 1970s. And yet, less than three per cent of it is protected. The controversial claim that ‘there will be no more fish in the ocean by 2048’ prompted a tsunami of debate when it was first made in 2006. Backing the statement, and delivering it to a wider audience, was Seaspiracy, the shocking 2021 Netflix documentary that laid bare the fishing industry’s complicity in crippling our oceans. So, 17 years on, does the claim hold any water and are our oceans being destabilised by overfishing, and a whole host of other environmental factors, to a point where wild seafood does, in fact, cease to exist?

A Grave Prophecy The man behind the grave prophecy is marine ecologist Boris Worm, Professor of Biology at Dalhousie University in Halifax, Canada. Together with 14 coauthors – including ecological economists and professors of marine conservation – he published the results of a four-year-long study in Science journal, which examined 7,800 ocean species from cyanobacteria to large fish. Worm’s stark warning about catastrophic loss of fish species was the line the internet remembers. It wasn’t misinformation, but rather sobering stats, using global catch data sourced from the UN Food and Agriculture Organization, and a time series of 12 different coastal regions around the world over the past millennia, that underscored the study. The idea that we’re heading towards a complete collapse of marine life as we know it seems unfathomable. But you only have to look to the tragic tale of Pacific bluefin tuna, that’s been whittled down to a woeful 2.6 per cent of its historic population because of overfishing of it and its prey, to realise that this critical ecosystem is dangerously out of whack. WWF has also sounded the alarm bells, stating that ‘more than 30 per cent of the world’s fish populations have been pushed beyond their biological limits and are in need of strict management plans to restore them.’

Toxic Tides So why exactly is marine life so important to the health of our oceans, the planet and, ultimately, the human race? Food security. An estimated one billion people,

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largely from undeveloped countries, rely on seafood for protein. Fishing also accounts for the livelihoods of 11 per cent of the world’s population. Our ocean’s health is calibrated by marine life, which filters toxins from the water caused by pollution, reducing large-scale algae blooms. Feeding these uncontrollable blooms is chemical runoff from farms. The toxic tides slowly suffocate fish by depleting oxygen in the water, even going so far as mutilating their gills. Meanwhile the scourge of plastic – ranging from invisible microplastics to colossal floating trash – continues to wage war on our oceans. In March, nations endorsed an historic resolution at the UN Environment Assembly to end the plastic trash epidemic and forge an international legally binding agreement by 2024. This comes after scientists at Tenerife’s University of La Laguna have identified a new type of emerging coastal pollution they’re calling ‘plastitar’. Found on several of the Canary Islands, positioned on an oil shipping lane, it’s a toxic mix of hardened tar bonded with microplastics. Pushing wild fish closer to the brink is climate change, threat number two. The world’s largest carbon sink, oceans are critical climate regulators. But our warming world is draining

THE CONTROVERSIAL CLAIM THAT THERE WILL BE NO MORE FISH IN THE OCEAN BY 2048 PROMPTED A TSUNAMI OF DEBATE BACK IN 2006. NOW SEASPIRACY HAS OPENED THAT UP TO A WIDER AUDIENCE oxygen from them – the leading cause of destructive coral bleaching. This in turn impacts reef ecosystems that are responsible for maintaining marine biodiversity. Entire species are now under threat of being wiped out by oxygen-deficient ‘dead zones’ like the Gulf of Mexico’s, which measures 6,334 square miles. But the damage doesn’t stop there. Our ocean’s rising temperatures are even influencing the migratory patterns of species such as the Black Sea Bass that’s moved some 200 nautical miles north since 1973.

Bottom Trawlers Perhaps our ocean life’s biggest nemesis is overfishing, defined as when fish are caught faster than they can reproduce. Bottom trawlers are responsible for targeting multiple marine species. The process of dragging scars the seafloor, and many fish are discarded worldwide because

they are the wrong species, too small or the fishing company is over quota. A staggering 90 per cent of Britain’s offshore marine protected areas (MPAs) are still being fished with these ‘bulldozers of the seabed’, according to conservation NGO, Oceana. Worryingly, bottom trawling can still be categorised as ‘sustainable fishing’, which legally requires between 20-30 per cent of a

Sardines caught in a giant fishing net

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REPORT

‘FIFTY PER CENT OF THE SEAFOOD WE EAT IS MORE LIKE MINING THAN FARMING. FISHERMAN EXTRACT IT FROM THE OCEAN, HOPING THAT MORE WILL BE THERE WHEN WE COME BACK’ Sheikh Fahim Al Qasimi

fish stock to be intact. Another commercial fishing practice resulting in huge fish yields but an indiscriminate loss of marine life is long-line fishing. Baited hooks are spaced out along lines that can extend up to 60-mileslong behind a boat, often resulting in incidental mortality of seabirds such as the black-footed albatross. Whether it was alarmist or not, Worm’s compelling statement got people talking about the dire state of our oceans. ‘Biodiversity is a finite resource, and we are going to end up with nothing left … if nothing changes,’ he was quoted as saying. So, the question is: has much changed? This year, the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) lists 77 per cent of oceanic shark and ray species threatened with extinction in its Red List. Meanwhile, the Baltic Sea still has a massive dead zone the size of Ireland. And yet, even Worm thinks all is not lost. ‘This can be done. It’s not beyond our reach at all,’ he’s insisted. Also hopeful is Dubai-based entrepreneur Sheikh Fahim Al Qasimi, who’s on a mission to reform the seafood supply chain. ‘Our oceans are resilient and will bounce back if we continue to work towards our goals,’ he tells The Ethicalist when probed about the likelihood of fishless oceans in the future because of overfishing. Working out of a warehouse in Dubai’s Al-Quoz district, Sheikh Fahim’s startup, Seafood Souq, has

developed a seafood traceability technology targeting fraud and wastage. ‘Fifty per cent of the seafood we eat is more like mining than farming,’ he says. ‘Fishermen extract it from the ocean, hoping that more will be there when we come back.’

Game-Changing Technology ‘The challenges in the supply chains today are caused by businesses and need to be solved by businesses. Technology has allowed us to begin raising the bar in terms of transparency in the supply chains.’ Seafood Souq’s tech SFS Trace has already been deployed in four European countries and the company is now collaborating with the UAE’s largest supermarket retailer, as well a handful of the region’s leading hotels. According to the start-up, mislabelling of seafood in restaurants is rife. Seafood Souq’s game changing tech means ‘you can scan a QR code [on the menu] to see exactly where your fish has come from,’ according to Qasimi. Worm’s grim prophecy assumes we do nothing to fix all the problems such as overfishing, but change is happening with the help of technology, activism and individuals like Qasimi. There’s no one clear-cut solution to restoring depleted or over-exploited fish stocks, rather it relies on a diversified approach. Last year, Canada launched a $7 million programme that

Overfishing of Bluefin tuna means the population is down to just 2.6 per cent of its historical population

Will our oceans recover from overfishing?

harnesses satellite technology to identify unregulated ‘dark fishing’ vessels (defined as those that switch off their location transmitters to avoid detection), targeting places such as the Galapagos Islands. But it’s the country’s huge, southern neighbour that offers up one of the best lessons in how to win the war on overfishing. Boasting some of the most sustainably managed fisheries on the planet, the United States has stamped out active overfishing in 90 per cent of stocks according to The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration data, with the help of catch shares: a form of property right to a fishery. Meanwhile, Colombia has become the Western Hemisphere’s first nation to protect 30 per cent of its oceans (well ahead of the 2030 deadline agreed on by 100 countries at last year’s UN General Assembly), meaning oil exploration and fishing – not just overfishing –are effectively banned. Perhaps most exciting of all is the prospect of a seafood dinner that circumvents oceans entirely. Despite being a few years off mass production, lab-grown sushi and crustaceans harvested from real fish cells is picking up pace on a global scale. Hope for marine life may be on the horizon after all.

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ARE WE HEADING FOR

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THE 6TH EXTINCTION? Climate change, pollution and habitat destruction could be nudging us catastrophically towards an event that wiped out the dinosaurs. But the biggest problem is us. So how can we stop the sixth mass extinction? BY MIKE PEAKE

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FEATURE

Dinosaurs were wiped out 65 million years ago

ixty five million years. That’s how long it’s been since we had our last ‘mass extinction’ – caused by climate change, an asteroid impact, and intense volcanic eruptions that caused a nuclear winter and wiped out the dinosaurs. The previous extinction was 145 million years earlier. Since the dawn of time, we have had five of these apocalyptic showstoppers, each one marking the end of numerous species in a short space of time. Incredibly, not just thousands but millions of species have been consigned to the history books since the very first life forms started wriggling around on Earth 3.7 billion years ago. A sobering, and quite reassuring fact, given that many of them would have wanted to eat us, is that 99.99 per cent of all species that ever lived are no longer with us today. The problem now, quite simply, is us. While humans are under no direct threat of extinction, our activities are

causing other species to die off at an alarming pace. In fact, many biologists think that the current rate of species loss is anything from 100 to 10,000 times what it should be. We are accelerating the demise of life on Earth at such a terrifying rate that the experts are warning of a Sixth Mass Extinction if we don’t take action now.

Destructive Species The sad truth is that we’re an incredibly destructive species. The WWF notes that 40 per cent of all land on Earth has been converted for food use and that agriculture is also behind 90 per cent of deforestation activities and the gobbling up of more than 70 per cent of the planet’s fresh water supplies. And that’s before we get onto a whole host of other dubious activities, such as our energy use and pollution. It’s safe to say that our performance, if this were the Eurovision Song Contest, would win us nil points. The issue isn’t so much the loss of some eel-like marine creature called conodonts, for example, it’s the interconnected nature

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REPORT

The Red Wolf could be extinct by 2050

Extinct: Western Black Rhino

WE ARE A DESTRUCTIVE SPECIES ACCELERATING THE DEMISE OF LIFE ON EARTH AT SUCH A TERRIFYING RATE THAT EXPERTS ARE WARNING OF A SIXTH MASS EXTINCTION The Spix’s macaw has recently become extinct

of things. Accelerating the demise of one species can speed up the collapse of another and so on. Every type of life on Earth has a role to play, and our furry friends and their less attractive micro-organism brethren have a hand (or paw or microscopic sucker pad) in everything from global soil quality to the air we breathe.

Tomorrow’s Casualties The Lake Lanao freshwater fish, the Bramble Cay melomys, the baiji, and the Spix’s macaw, which is the same species as Blu, hero of hit 2011 movie Rio, along with the Western black rhino and the Pyrenean ibex. All recently extinct. In the line-up of species expected to disappear by 2050 are some serious big hitters, including the African Lion, Red Wolf, Mountain Gorilla and the Asiatic Cheetah. Experts point not just to the way that the animal kingdom supports itself but how it helps us too, opening the door to new medicines and materials, such as glue inspired by mussels. The design of aircraft black boxes was improved after scientists studied the shock-absorbing qualities of woodpecker skulls. When these animals go, they will take with them their piece of the biodiversity puzzle. And by upsetting the fragile

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REPORT

Our actions are killing off a lineup of species

Asiatic Cheetahs could disappear

balance that naturally exists between species could affect everything from water cleanliness to food supplies. Whole ecosystems can break down.

The Blame Game If you’re looking for someone to point the finger at, just point it at your neighbour. Or, let’s be honest, yourself. Unless you’ve lived a one hundred per cent green lifestyle since birth (and not even Greta Thunberg can lay claim to that), you’ll have contributed to this mess in some small way – even if it is accidental and indirectly.

The main issues that are inching us towards a Sixth Mass Extinction are: Habitat destruction: hacking down trees to build cities, grow food or to mine those sparkly jewels most of us seem to like. Climate change: our poor track record of being kind to the environment (thanks to the electricity we use, the goods we buy and the cars we drive) will partly be to blame for the Sixth Mass Extinction. Pollution: we’re destroying the air we breathe on a daily basis because of very questionable food chain practices. Overexploitation: oh, that fish on the restaurant menu might very well be delicious, but what of the sharks that died while it was being caught or its inability to repopulate? Invasive species: introducing new animals where they aren’t meant to be

can wreak havoc with local ecosystems. The US Geological Survey lists the West Nile virus, the south American fire ant, Burmese pythons and sea lamprey as examples of invasive species that are causing harm to the environment, the global economy or our health. The $64,000 Question: Has the Sixth Mass Extinction Begun? On this, scientists tend to agree. And the bad news is that the consensus says yes. WWF writes that ‘experts now believe we’re in the midst’ of it, while The Guardian writes that ‘a ‘biological annihilation of wildlife in recent decades means a sixth mass extinction in Earth’s history is underway.’ For context, however, none of this is going to happen overnight. Scientists define a mass extinction event as being one where 75 per cent of species disappear within the space of a few million years. ‘Nevertheless,’ says The Scientist, ‘most scientists agree that overall extinction rates are much higher now than at any time in the past several million years, and are perhaps even higher than during previous mass extinctions.’ In fact, one review back in 2011 said that it was possible that we could meet the 75 per cent species loss

threshold within 540 years if every species currently threatened did, indeed, swiftly disappear. Is it too late to stop it? Who knows. To pull it off, experts put forward everything from an outright ban on fossil fuels to giving 50 per cent of all land and oceans on Earth protected status. Be under no illusion that major global changes will be needed if we are to turn the tide. The great irony of all this, of course, is that the biggest casualty of the Sixth Mass Extinction would probably be us. As the BBC’s resident natural history expert David Attenborough pointedly told the press a couple of years back, the history of our world shows that even in the face of cataclysmic events, nature somehow finds a way. But nature, in this instance, doesn’t appear to include us. ‘Our planet can get along perfectly well without humans,’ Attenborough said, ‘but we cannot survive at all without all the services that nature provides. So I suppose what we have to ask is will self-interest kick in before it is far too late for our species?’ It’s a heck of a question. And certainly something to ponder the next time you’re filling up the old gas guzzler or treating yourself to an avocado flown in from Mexico.

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RECIPES

RAYMOND BLANC:

‘I’m the Apple King’

The French chef loves apples so much he even went head-to-head with the British monarch King Charles to see whose orchard and apple tree was better. Here he shares his favourite apple recipes BY ELLEN MANNING

ay the word ‘apples’ to Raymond Blanc and he has an endless list of anecdotes – including the time he planted an apple tree with King Charles. The renowned French chef, who was awarded an OBE in 2010, was showing the monarch around his famed restaurant, Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, in Oxfordshire, where he has 12 gardens and an orchard boasting an array of rare British varieties. ‘I told him that my garden was so much better than his at Highgrove,’ Raymond laughs. ‘We planted a tree together and his tree, I must say, is better than mine. But I’ve learned how to lose in England, so I said, “OK, Sir, well done.” A love of apples isn’t the only passion the king of the kitchen shares with the monarch – he believes in eating local produce, not only for practicality and affordability but for the environment too. ‘My mum always told me to buy local,’ he says. ‘Because if we buy local, we help our farmer to keep his farm. We don’t import food from billions of miles away which creates pollution, both from all the chemicals they use and from transporting the fruit. ‘If it’s local, everyone wins. The farmer, the grower, the chef, the local economy. Imagine the impact it has on sustainability, our environment, and climate change if we start growing our own food instead of importing. That’s the big message: let’s start to grow our own food.’ Apples have long been suggested as an ideal snack for heart health thanks to their antioxidants, fibre and flavonoids, which are all associated with a decreased risk of cardiovascular disease. ‘There’s some truth in the saying, “an apple a day keeps the doctor away,”’ adds Blanc. But a focus on health doesn’t mean we can’t turn apples into some of our favourite puds, including a classic crumble where, Blanc says, the apples should be cooked separately so they don’t steam the raw crumble on top.

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Bramley Apple and Salted Caramel Mini Ice Creams Prep Time 35 mins plus 2 hours for freezing Makes 40 For the caramelised apple dice: 1 Bramley apple (approx. 120g) 50g caster sugar Peel, core and dice the apple into ½ cm cubes. In a bowl, roll the diced apple in half the sugar. Heat a large frying pan over a high heat, then add the remaining sugar. Cook it until it is a dark caramel and add the diced apple. Toss them in the pan until golden. Tip them onto a tray and allow to cool. Making the mini ice creams: 1 x 400ml tub salted caramel ice cream 40 cocktail sticks Line a 20cm x 20cm baking tray with clingfilm. Remove ice cream from freezer, leave to defrost for 15 minutes, then place in a bowl. Fold the diced, caramelised apple into the ice cream. Spread an even layer 2cm thick of the mixture over the lined tray. Place in freezer for 1 hour or until frozen. Line a separate large tray small enough to fit into your freezer with baking parchment. Remove ice cream from the freezer and cut into 40 rectangles. Insert a cocktail stick into the thin end of each piece. Place them on the prepared tray so they’re flat and don’t touch each other. Return to the freezer for at least 1 hour. To finish the mini ice creams 50g nibbed almonds 200g chocolate (dark, milk or white – your choice) 40g cocoa butter (or vegetable oil) Preheat the oven to 170°C. Spread the nibbed almonds on a baking tray, transfer to the oven and toast for 7 minutes, until golden brown. Remove from the oven and leave to cool. In a bain-marie (or microwave) melt the chocolate and oil to around 50ºC. Remove from heat and stir. Add toasted almonds and stir. Pour mixture into a tall, narrow jug to dip ice creams into. After dipping each one, knock off excess chocolate drips. Return to the

Tarte Boulangère

freezer and keep there until ready to serve.

Prep Time 15 mins Cooking Time 50 mins Serves 4–6 plain flour, for dusting 300g all-butter puff pastry (block or ready-rolled) 5–6 Royal Gala, Cox or Braeburn apples (total weight 700–800g) 50g unsalted butter 5 dessertspoons (about 85g) Demerara sugar 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon juice of ½ lemon 1 tablespoon water a handful of flaked almonds (optional) icing sugar, for dusting Preheat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. On a floured board, roll out a disc of pastry 4mm thick. Then cut round an 18cm diameter cake tin to create a disc. Run a sharp knife around the disc, 1cm from the edge, and 1mm deep. This will enable the pastry to rise around the apples. Line a baking tray, place the pastry disc onto it and put in the fridge. Peel and core the apples. Halve each apple lengthways, and cut each half into three equal-sized segments lengthways. Melt the butter and mix it on a baking tray with the Demerara sugar, cinnamon, lemon juice and water. Roll the apple segments in the mixture to coat. Roast for 20 minutes, basting and turning over half way through. Remove the tray from the oven, and reduce the oven temperature to 190°C/170°C fan/gas 5. Baste the apples again, and leave to cool. Arrange apple segments on top of the pastry in a circle – leaving 1cm space from the edge of the disc – to form a dome. Brush them with the remaining syrup from the baking tray. Bake in the oven for 25–30 minutes. Sprinkle with flaked almonds and dust with icing sugar. Serve warm with whipped cream, ice cream or crème fraîche.

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A Taste of Sustainability Meet the 5 star sustainable restaurants that are transforming the UAE’s culinary scene BY HARRIET SHEPHARD

Dining out is a huge part of life in the UAE. A cultural melting pot that is home to residents of over 200 different nationalities, the nation is widely regarded to be one of the world’s best dining destinations. The Dubai Gastronomy Industry Report reports that the city has more than 13,000 restaurants, bars and cafes, including 14 that have been awarded Michelin Stars. But the downside to this incredible dining culture is the enormous amount of food waste produced. Fortunately, many local restaurants are now trying to combat the nation’s love for excessive buffets and extravagant spreads by offering sustainable and zerowaste alternatives. Proving that eco-friendly food doesn’t just mean rustic, homemade comfort dishes, some sustainable menus are even on offer in the fine dining category. So now you can eat out at some of the best establishments guilt-free knowing that there’s zero waste but plenty of taste. Here, The Ethicalist has rounded up our favourite five of the most sophisticated and sustainable restaurants in the UAE for you to enjoy.

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BOCA DIFC Specialists at using every part of each ingredient to make spectacular, Instagram-worthy dishes, BOCA is arguably one of Dubai’s most famous – and best – sustainable restaurants. Indeed, along with being named Sustainable Kitchen of the Year at the prestigious Gault&Millau UAE Gala 2023, it also holds a Michelin Green Star. Committed to proving that the UAE isn’t a barren desert landscape, BOCA champions local vegetables and other fresh, regional foods. It refuses to deal with any supplier that uses single-use plastic, and its innovative zero-waste efforts include turning skins, seeds and stems into dried seasonings; bruised berries into purees, nearly expired milk into cheese and stale sourdough into the legendary ‘Yesterday’s Bread’ starter. The selection of organic and vegan grape makes it extra inviting, and its recently published Sustainability Manifesto explains more about its admirable efforts. All in all, BOCA’s modern European dishes are as delicious as they are ethical. boca.ae.

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FINE DINING

LOWE KOA Canvas, Wadi Al Safa 3 Ranked at Number 15 in The World’s 50 Best Restaurants MENA 2023, LOWE is guaranteed to be at the top of every local ethical diner’s list of favourite eateries. The restaurant centres around an inviting, open kitchen which brings a refreshingly informal approach to fine dining. Offering simple, yet delicious, specialties made from ethically-sourced, seasonal produce, the minimalist, no frills menu spans vegan specialties including tasty burnt aubergine dip with seaweed zaatar, charred cauliflower with golden raisin chimmi, black pepper miso eggplant with tofu, and much more. Plus, if you don’t fancy venturing out, you can bring the joy of LOWE back to your dining table with the LOWE at Home box. Offering everything you need to host the perfect dinner party, all the extraordinary recipes are, of course, delivered in compostable, recyclable and single-use plastic free packaging. lowe-dubai.com.

Teible Jameel Arts Centre, Bur Dubai Nestled inside the Jameel Arts Centre, Teible is far from your average museum café. Presenting a Scandi-style, simplistic take on dining, everything from the décor to the menu pays homage to the Middle East’s natural landscapes and fresh produce. The farm-to-table style menu changes regularly to match the seasons and around 90 per cent of the ingredients used are sourced from within MENA. A masterclass in green gastronomy, the elegant dishes almost look too beautiful to eat. Teible reduces food waste by fermenting, pickling, preserving and repurposing as many ingredients as possible, and every guest is left in no doubt about why it is one of only three restaurants in Dubai to be awarded a Michelin Green Star. teible.com

AVATARA Dubai Hills The UAE is home to hundreds of fabulous Indian restaurants, but nothing compares to the intricate works of art at AVATARA. Proud to be the world’s first Michelin-starred Indian vegetarian fine dining restaurant, to say it is unique is an understatement. On a mission to show that vegetarian food knows no limits in terms of taste and creativity, the theatrical tasting menu is based around the theory of the seven chakras. Although lavish and decadent in appearance, every recipe is made with humble and locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Kids are welcome to enjoy their own child-friendly experience while dedicated vegan and gluten-free tasting menus are also available. avatara.ae

Brasserie Boulud Sofitel Dubai The Obelisk, Wafi City French hotspot Brasserie Boulud sources its vegetables from the Dubai-based Greenheart Organic Farms, sustainable food supplier FreshOnTable and many of the UAE’s 30,000 plus farms. Guided by executive chef Russell Impiazzi (Sustainability Champion of the Year at the Gault&Millau UAE Awards 2023) the art-deco style venue helped the Sofitel Dubai The Obelisk donate 11,000 meals to the UAE food bank in 2022. Granted a ‘Bib Gourmand’ award by the Michelin Guide for its superb, good value fare, it offers nourishing plant-based plates such as linguine aux legumes, stuffed courgettes, Provençal chickpea-based flatbreads with colourful vegetable toppings and much, much more. For a mid-week treat, the business lunch menu offers three exceptional courses for just AED 150. sofitel-dubai-theobelisk.com/restaurants-bars/brasserie-boulud.

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a g e V Is it Safe to Raise Your Child As A

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Distressing stories of ‘murder by malnutrition’ – where children have died on strict vegan diets – recently made headlines around the world but what is the truth about raising kids on plant-based food? BY HOLLY CATLING

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he newspaper headlines around the globe were as lurid as they were shocking. ‘Murder by malnutrition’ screamed the front pages one day, followed by: ‘Vegan parents who left baby girl malnourished avoid jail’. Suddenly it seemed that the entire world was talking about plant-based diets and wondering aloud if they were a sure-fire death sentence rather than a healthy lifestyle choice. It’s true that meal-delivery apps now have a smorgasbord of vegan options; research shows that 15 per cent of milk sales are now plantbased, and 60 per cent of GEN Z and Millennials are actively reducing or seeking to reduce their entire meat and dairy consumption. But with these stories of parents being prosecuted for the neglect, abuse or even death of their vegan children, which, quite rightly, has caused a global outcry, families on a plant-based only diet have been hit with a barrage of criticism from the media, health professionals, teachers and even meat eaters eager to voice their ‘we told you it would all end badly’ opinion. No one is disputing that mothers such as US-based Sheila O’Leary deserve a lifetime prison sentence for the murder of her 18-month-old son Ezra, who died of malnutrition after being fed a diet of vegetables, raw fruit, and breast milk. But what is the truth behind such tragedies? The Ethicalist spoke to experts and local parents to find out if it’s possible to raise a vegan child safely…

Behind the Headlines

Children coming to harm from being vegan is extremely rare, which is why such stories make the front pages. ‘The perception that a plant-based diet is dangerous and unhealthy is very wrong,’ says Liz van Graan, a South African mother of two, whose website Vegan Kids Dubai is dedicated to debunking the negative myths that often surround veganism for children. ‘Simple research or consulting with a health professional who is familiar with veganism will set parents’ minds at ease,’ she says. Dr Federica Amati, a medical scientist and nutritionist with roles at Imperial College London and the World Health Organisation (WHO), agrees. ‘Reports of tragic cases of

‘CHILDREN CAN BE SAFELY RAISED AS VEGANS, AS LONG AS BOTH THE PARENTS ARE VERY WELL INFORMED ON MEETING ALL THE NUTRITIONAL REQUIREMENTS WITH A VEGAN DIET, WHICH IS TRICKIER THAN MEETING REQUIREMENTS FOR VEGAN ADULTS’ serious malnourishment – including neurological damage due to vitamin B12 deficiency and even death – persist in the media, but are luckily rare,’ she says. ‘Malnourishment is more likely to result from parental neglect than from following a vegan diet as a child.’ Indeed, Sheila O’Leary hadn’t fed Ezra for a week before he died – the kind of neglect and malnutrition that would have a disastrous impact on any child, regardless of what they usually ate. But Dr Amati cautions that children on strictly plant-based diets must be carefully monitored. ‘There is scientific evidence to show that vegan children are likely to have poorer bone health and may have a higher intake of ultra-processed (junk) foods, and they are not always receiving adequate supplements of certain nutrients such as vitamin B12, which is crucial for brain health,’ she says. ‘Children can be

safely raised as vegans, as long as the parents are very well informed on meeting nutritional requirements with a vegan diet, which is trickier than meeting requirements for adults following a vegan diet.’

Different Needs

What babies and children eat is of critical importance. Many major organs, such as the brain and the pancreas, are still developing during childhood, and between birth and the age of three a child’s body size doubles and their weight increases by a factor of five. As a result, children’s nutritional needs are significantly higher than adults’, and any lack of vital nutrients can lead to severe and sometimes irreversible problems with their development. Most of the concern about children following a vegan diet is the risk of them becoming deficient in nutrients such as calcium, iron, vitamin B12, and folate, and the belief that these

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are easier to obtain from animalderived sources, although an imbalanced, highly processed omnivorous diet could also lead to these same nutritional deficiencies, of course. And yet there’s no denying that plant-based diets have many health benefits: they’ve been shown to reduce the risk of chronic diseases such as obesity, type 2 diabetes, cardiovascular diseases, and some types of cancer. UAE-based Staceylee Mudaly has been raising her three children, aged six, four and 18 months, as vegans for the past three-and-a-half years. She says that her children are far healthier now than when they were eating meat, though she makes sure they don’t miss out on vital nutrients. ‘My kids take a multivitamin, Vitamin D, B12 spray, and Vitamin C supplements, as well as a probiotic,’ Staceylee explains. ‘We test them every six months, in which I take them for a full blood count to ensure they are meeting all the nutritional guidelines. My children are hitting all their key milestones. ‘There is a misperception that vegan children are missing out on key nutrients, or might miss growth milestones because they’re not eating meat or drinking animal milk. But they are still getting everything they need, just in a different form. ‘If most families did blood tests like I do with my children I can guarantee that 90 per cent of the children who are eating meat would fall short of their nutritional milestones.’

Kids’ Vegan Diet

The Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics states that ‘appropriately planned vegetarian, including vegan, diets are healthful, nutritionally adequate, and may provide health benefits for the prevention and treatment of certain diseases. These diets are appropriate for all stages of the life cycle, including pregnancy, lactation, infancy, childhood and adolescence.’ Of course, they mean a diet made up of healthy whole plant foods such as nuts, seeds, vegetables, pulses, legumes, whole grains and fruits. ‘But in reality, vegan diets are often high in ultra-processed foods and pre-prepared vegan meals, which are not environmentally friendly or nutritious,’ warns Dr

Amati. She recommends a more flexible plant-based or vegetarian diet for babies and very young children, rather than a vegan diet. ‘The advice I would give is to consider a lacto-ovo-vegetarian diet until the age of five and transition to a fully vegan diet with appropriate supplementation and guidance after that,’ she says. ‘For those who are set on raising their child as a vegan from birth, it’s really important to factor in the commitment, expert guidance, planning, resources and necessary supplementation for good growth and health – I would strongly recommend not to embark on vegan weaning without expert guidance.’ Vegan Kids Dubai founder Liz, who completed a plant-based nutrition certification last year, finds this advice ‘outdated’. ‘Children below five years can thrive on a plant-based diet without consuming animals,’ she says. ‘All nutritional needs can be met by vegan alternatives, fruits, vegetables, starches and legumes, and it’s important to be honest with children about where their food comes from. ‘There are many people with negative outlooks about children and veganism, but I always try to fight this stigma and show the critics that vegan kids are healthy and normal.’

Why Choose Vegan?

At its most basic level, veganism is about cutting out anything that involves the exploitation of living creatures. This means eating no meat, eggs or dairy, but also eschewing anything that involves animals at any point in its process – such as honey, leather, and silk. Concern over the negative health consequences of consuming meat and dairy from creatures that are routinely treated with hormones and antibiotics is another motivator. Vegan diets are a crucial component of global sustainability: the United Nation’s Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change has consistently proposed plant-based diets as a viable solution to the climate crisis. As we battle droughts, wildfires, and extreme weather scenarios all around the world, it’s clear that understanding and promoting the benefits of a plant-based lifestyle has never been more important.

Vegan Swaps: Plant-based sources of key nutrients CALCIUM This is needed to maintain healthy bones and teeth. Non-vegans get most of their calcium from milk, cheese and yoghurt, but vegans can get it from: •g reen, leafy vegetables such as broccoli, cabbage and okra • f ortified unsweetened soya, pea and oat drinks • calcium-set tofu •s esame seeds and tahini • pulses •b rown and white bread (in the UK, calcium is added to white and brown flour by law) •d ried fruit, such as raisins, prunes, figs and dried apricots VITAMIN D The body needs this to regulate the amount of calcium and phosphate in the body and keep bones, teeth and muscles healthy. Good sources of Vitamin D include: •e xposure to sunlight, particularly from late March/early April until the end of September – remember to cover up or protect your skin before it starts to turn red or burn • f ortified fat spreads, breakfast cereals and unsweetened soya drinks (with Vitamin D added) • v egan Vitamin D supplements IRON Iron is essential for the production of healthy red blood cells. A vegan diet can be high in iron, although iron from plant-based food is absorbed by the body less well than iron from meat. Good plant sources of iron are: • pulses •w holemeal bread and flour

• breakfast cereals fortified with iron • dark green, leafy vegetables, such as watercress, broccoli and spring greens • nuts • dried fruits, including apricots, prunes and figs VITAMIN B12 The body needs Vitamin B12 to maintain healthy blood and a healthy nervous system. Many people get Vitamin B12 from animal sources, such as meat, fish and dairy products. Sources for vegans are limited and a Vitamin B12 supplement may be needed. Sources include: • breakfast cereals fortified with B12 • unsweetened soya drinks fortified with Vitamin B12 • yeast extract, such as Marmite, and yeast flakes which are fortified with Vitamin B12 OMEGA-3 FATTY ACIDS Omega-3 fatty acids, primarily those found in oily fish, can help maintain a healthy heart and reduce the risk of heart disease when eaten as part of a healthy diet. Evidence suggests that plant sources of omega-3 fatty acids may not have the same benefits in reducing the risk of heart disease as those in oily fish. But you can help to ensure a balanced diet by eating rich plant sources of omega-3 fatty acids. Sources suitable for vegans include: •g round linseed (flaxseed) oil • v egetable (rapeseed) oil •c hia seeds • walnuts SOURCE: NHS

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THE UAE’S GREEN HOTEL

n o i t u l o v Re These UAE hotels are setting a gold standard for green tourism BY COURTNEY BRANDT

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he UAE is swapping some of its glitz for green and transforming the destination known for its lavish lifestyle into a hotspot for sustainable stays. Among the skyscrapers and high-end shops, you’ll now find a growing trend of eco-smart hotels that are all about pampering guests and the planet. In recent years, there has been a seismic shift in how travellers choose where they stay. According to a Booking.com 2023 Sustainable Travel Report, more than 75 per cent of people want to make their holiday more eco-friendly. It’s no longer just about extravagant decor or gourmet dining; now top of their bucket-list travel list is the desire for conscious choices, sustainable practices, and meaningful experiences. As global attention shifts towards environmental conservation, several hotels in the UAE have implemented impressive sustainable practices with a focus on conserving resources, reducing energy consumption and minimising waste generation. Below, we look into some of the initiatives embraced by the region’s slow travel trailblazers and how they are setting a new gold standard for green tourism.

Eco-Chic Cabins at JA Hatta Fort Hotel

In the midst of growing concerns about water scarcity and plastic pollution, JA Resorts is leading the charge with their innovative sustainable solutions. This pioneering hotel group was the first hospitality brand in the region to install water treatment systems along with cleaning and bottling operations to eliminate single-use plastics on-site. But the real magic happens up in the mountains at JA Hatta Fort Hotel, where they’ve recently opened their sustainable pied-a-terre, Terra Cabins. These eco-friendly chalets, built with recycled and recyclable materials, offer sweeping views of the rugged Hatta landscape, and are testament to the group’s unwavering commitment to sustainability. And if you thought it couldn’t get any better, think again. The property’s canine-friendly policy is the cherry on top, welcoming not just guests but their four-legged friends too.

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Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort: A Waste Management Revolution

With stunning views of the Arabian Gulf and Dubai’s skyline, Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort offers a blend of modern luxury and traditional architecture. But it’s also a top choice for eco-conscious travellers. In a world where landfills are overflowing, Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort has implemented some visionary waste management practices. Their incredible journey, from diverting a mere six per cent of waste in 2019 to an impressive 62 per cent this year, showcases a true commitment to a cleaner planet. But it’s their innovative spirit that sets them apart. Their Food Digester machine is a game-changer in sustainability. It doesn’t just reduce food waste; it transforms it into grey water for landscaping, creating a sustainable cycle that benefits both the resort and the environment, reducing its carbon footprint by 86 tons over one year. The hotel has also recently opened a new 40.5 square meter hydroponic garden so guests can now sample fresh, hand picked produce.

The Ritz-Carlton Abu Dhabi Grand Canal: A Vertical Farm Feast

The Ritz-Carlton, a brand that is synonymous with luxury, is now also resonating with sustainability. The new vertical farm initiative at the Abu Dhabi Grand Canal property is a testament to their dedication to fresh, farm-to-table dining. The on-site vertical farm ensures the availability of fresh produce while reducing the ingredient transportation’s carbon footprint. This sustainable initiative sets a precedent for responsible sourcing in the industry. Executive Chef Vitaly Medvedev is enthusiastic about the project, saying, ‘The vertical farm is my passion project. It addresses the challenge of finding nutritious produce and allows us to deliver fresh products from garden to table within hours.’ The farm’s harvest has enriched the hotel’s dishes with new inclusions such as Caprese salad with heirloom tomatoes, burrata and basil pesto, wild strawberry mousse with spicy crumble, and Mediterranean herb sorbet.

Hilton’s Farm to Table Journey with FreshOnTable

When it comes to luxury and comfort, Hilton has long been a trusted name. But Hilton is now making waves in the world of sustainability, too. Their partnership with FreshOnTable, a UAE-based agri-tech platform, is all about embracing local goodness. This means they’re all set to bring a whopping 900 tonnes of local produce to restaurant tables every year. In a win-win, Hilton’s move not only reduces the carbon footprint linked to shipping food long distances but also gives a hearty boost to the local farming scene meaning guests across their hotel portfolio can enjoy fresh, local flavours.

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Jumeirah Zabeel Saray’s Hydroponic Oasis

At Jumeirah Zabeel Saray, adventure and sustainability meet. Here, guests can witness the future of farming through an on-site urban hydroponic farm that uses a jaw-dropping 90 per cent less water compared to traditional farming methods, making year-round cultivation a reality. But it’s not just about numbers; it’s about the taste and freshness. With over 30 varieties of leafy greens and herbs to choose from the dishes here are unparalleled. Imagine enjoying produce served just hours after being harvested, a true culinary joy that comes with a feel-good twist.

Rove Hotels: A Pledge Towards a Greener Tomorrow

As proud members of the Sustainable Hospitality Alliance, Rove Hotels are on a mission to make a difference. Their journey is filled with impressive achievements, from reductions in plastic waste, water, paper, to electricity consumption across all of their gorgeous properties. Each Rove Hotel has the coveted Green Key certificate as a symbol of their dedication to sustainability. But their mission goes beyond accolades. Rove has set their sights on an ambitious target: planting a remarkable 28,000 trees by the end of the year. This pledge isn’t just corporate jargon; it’s an open invitation to every guest to join in and leave their very own green footprint on the planet.

Destination Mina Seyahi: A Groundbreaking Water Initiative

Nestled in the heart of bustling Dubai Marina, the Marriott-owned Destination Mina Seyahi complex is making waves in the world of water conservation. They’ve teamed up with BE WTR to highlight the importance of local water sources. What’s truly remarkable is the system they’ve put in place provides locally filtered water in reusable bottles for all 830 rooms across three fantastic hotels: Westin, W, and Le Meridien. But their mission doesn’t stop there – they’re on a quest to eliminate a whopping 1.5 million single-use plastic water bottles while also working to reduce the company’s carbon footprint caused by shipping water internationally and the energy used for cooling.

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Emilia Ohrtmann Audrey Shirt, AED 590, and Tyra trousers, AED 890 Earrings, Odis Studio Boots, Model’s own

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When the Great Migration from the Serengeti into the Masai Mara gets underway here’s how to get a ringside seat for nature’s most sensational spectacle BY KAREN PASQUALI JONES

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hey’re the dramatic and awe-inspiring scenes we’ve all seen in hit films such as The Lion King or in iconic TV documentaries voiced by David Attenborough, but now you can take a ringside seat to watch the animal kingdom’s greatest shows on earth. From the great migration of wildebeests out of the Serengeti into the Masai Mara to the march of thousands of zebra in Botswana and the marathon journey of humpback whales along the coast of Madagascar, there is nothing quite as incredible as nature on the move. But rather than watching it via the small screen, now you can see these animals race to pastures new in the wild, up close in luxurious safari lodges, glass-fronted ‘tents’ and on uninhabited islands in the middle of the Indian Ocean. As well as witnessing animals and nature in all their raw beauty, you’ll also be helping conservation and local communities who rely on ecotourism to thrive. So here is The Ethicalist’s round-up of the best places to see the wonder of the wild in action.

The Great Migration: Masai Mara

Africa’s race for life, the world’s largest and most famous migration where millions of wildebeest, antelope and zebra cross over more than 800 km of the Serengeti into the Masai Mara in Kenya in search of greener pastures, is the ultimate representation of the circle of life that forms part of Disney’s most popular – and highest-grossing – animated film, The Lion King. The migration is treacherous. The animals have to cross rivers teeming with 3,000 crocodiles and escape the Serengeti lions patiently waiting for a kill in the unforgiving landscape. But having given birth in spring, and feasted on the verdant grasses of the south-eastern Serengeti, a column of millions of animals stretching up to 40 km long goes on the march. In July, the herd will have crossed the Grumeti River to face their next hurdle: navigating the Mara River by the end of the month, or in August, to

reach the northwest plains and the Masai Mara National Reserve. Stay in the heart of the action at The Safari Collection’s Sala’s Camp in the Masai Mara for the ultimate wildlife bucket list adventure. Nestled along the bank of the Sand River, the camp is less than 2 km from the Tanzanian border, with views into Serengeti National Park where you can watch the wildebeests and other animals thunder past the crossing between June - September each year. As well as The Great Migration, spot the Big Five, including ‘Sala’s lion pride,’ leopards, elephants, buffalo, and rhinos in the wild on a traditional safari then sleep ‘under canvas’ in luxury glass fronted tents with private plunge pools. Hippos, cheetahs, an abundance of birdlife and the spectacular landscape are all part of this incredible experience, too. The Details: A stay at Sala’s Camp start from $1,739/AED 6,386 per adult sharing per night, all-inclusive. The best time to witness The Great Migration is from July to September. safaricollection.com

The Humpback Whale Migration: Madagascar

From the mating dances of the males to the strikes of fins, breaching and even the first movements of a calf, the migration of hundreds of humpback whales along the north east coasts of Madagascar to mate and birth is a spectacular sight. Watch this natural phenomena from an exclusive private island on Madagascar’s north east coast with 2,500 acres of wilderness in the middle of the Indian Ocean. Miavana by Time + Tide is Madagascar’s number one luxury resort with a vibrant house reef, colourful corals and even brighter fish, along with deserted coves where turtles lay their eggs on the beach. See the whales up close from one of the 14 villas where you’ll experience butler service, and 24/7 dining from Madagascar’s natural larder which includes the world’s most succulent mangoes, vanilla and deliciously spicy pink peppercorns. The Details: Three-night stays at Madagascar start from £8,232/ AED 37,092 per person based on two guests sharing on an all-inclusive basis.

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TRAVEL A luxury ‘tent’ with a view of nature in all her glory

Take a ringside seat at King Lawanika Camp

‘Africa’s Race For Life is the world’s most famous migration where millions of wildebeest, antelope and zebra cross the Serengeti in search of greener pastures’

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The price also includes flights and transfers. The humpback whale migration runs July to October. mavrossafaris.com

Watch zebras migrate at Xigera Safari Lodge

Zambia Wildebeest Migration

The country’s answer to the Masai Mara – 3,660sq km of flat flowerscattered plains that Queen Victoria was asked to set aside as royal hunting grounds – is now the site where thousands of zebra, wildebeest and oribi come to graze under dramatic skies in November. Watch the continent’s second largest migration pass by followed by pelicans, cranes, skimmers and the lechwe – the country’s water-loving antelope. Experience the cycle of nature in all its glory at Time + Tide’s King Lewanika Camp, a collection of six minimalist open-fronted and opensided luxurious rooms designed to make the most of the views of the vast skies and never-ending plains. There are also exhilerating jeep and walking safaris, bush picnics and visits to meet the Lozi people, one of the two tribes living in the national park. The Details: A stay at King Lewanika Camp starts from $1,400/approx AED 5,141 per person. The best time to enjoy watching the Zambia wildebeest migration is in November. Timeandtideafrica.com

Zebra Migration, Botswana

This is the largest and longest mammal migration in Southern Africa as thousands of zebra journey from north to south and back again. More than half of the black and white striped equines migrate from Chobe to Nxai Pan while the remaining 45 per cent go from Makgadikgadi to Okavango Delta in Botswana during the green season in March. Inspired by the incredible surroundings of the Delta, which is teeming with wildlife, is the luxurious Xigera Safari Lodge with its uninterrupted and stunning views over the floodplain. Named after the Pied Kingfisher that makes its home here at Botswana’s Moremi Game Reserve, the Xigera (pronounced kee-jera), Lodge is a ‘love letter to the magic of the African bush.’ It sleeps up to 24 guests in 12 individually designed suites, including a two-bed family suite

on two islands that is bridged with a bronze lily centrepiece. It is almost entirely powered through solar energy; single-use plastic has been eliminated and caring for the environment, along with empowering and employing local communities, is the priority here. The beautiful property has a living gallery of bespoke art works by Africa’s most exciting young craftspeople and artists, and as well as watching the majestic zebra, activities include glassbottom mokoro excursions across the Delta’s waterways, sleeping out in a baobab treehouse 1 km from the camp, spa treatments and game drives to spot myriad wildlife. The Details: A stay at Xigera Safari Lodge starts from $2,630/AED 9,658 per person sharing per night. This includes accommodation on an allinclusive basis, park fees and all activities. Spa treatments are extra. The best time to see the zebra migration is at the end of the rainy season, in March. xigera.com

Get up close to wildlife

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Gorillas in the wild Trekking with Volcanoes Safaris in Rwanda’s volcanic Virunga Mountains is a once in a lifetime experience that will not only allow you to come face to face with these great apes but contribute to their crucial conservation BY KATE WICKERS

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t’s a three-hour drive to the ancient, ice-capped Virunga Mountains from Rwanda’s capital, Kigali, and every minute gives me something incredible to marvel at, from the women carrying great sheaves of maize, bundles of sugarcane and huge yellow water containers on their heads, to the extraordinary dexterity of the men who transport everything from livestock to building materials on rickety bikes. Field upon field of potato and cassava flash by as do small-scale banana and avocado plantations, and huge wooden drying frames hung with butter-coloured corn cobs. Finally, the tarmac runs out and we turn on to red dust roads to make the bumpy ascent up to Volcanoes Safaris’ Virunga Lodge, where my suite is

Volcanoes Safaris’ Virunga Lodge looks out over the mountains and the Lakes Bulera and Ruhondo

A gorilla at Virunga Lodge

A FEMALE GORILLA EMERGES FROM THE FERNS WITH AN INFANT ON HER BACK WHO PEERS OVER TO LOCK HUGE, BROWN EYES WITH MINE reflective of the local landscape and culture in its Afro-shabby-chic design, where there is an emphasis on using handmade, traditional furnishings. I have a fire pit on the terrace with dreamy views over Lakes Bulera and Ruhondo, dotted with dormant volcanoes and tiny verdant islands, and I really could not be more content as I settle down to watch the sun set. Call me picky, but these days there are a few new boxes I like to tick when I’m choosing a luxury holiday, and number one is the travel company’s green credentials. There was no need to worry here as Volcanoes Safaris is a trailblazer, pioneered by founder Praveen Moman, who is celebrating 25 years of responsible wildlife ecotourism in Rwanda and Uganda, and is a signatory of the Kinshasha Declaration on Saving the Great Apes. Owner of four luxury lodges (one in Rwanda, three in Uganda,

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Volcanoes Safaris’ Virunga Lodge looks out onto lakes Bulera and Ruhonduo, which are dotted with tiny islands

with another to open later this year close to Kibale National Park, Uganda), Praveen’s take on luxury travel is that subtlety is key. There’s no question that the lodges are luxurious but he’s also big on minimising any environmental impact. ‘At the age of 12, I first went walking in Mgahinga, in the Virungas, with my father, who was passionate about the wilderness of Africa, and we visited many of the national parks,’ Praveen says. ‘It was around the time that Dian Fossey started her research with gorillas here, and my romantic notions of safeguarding the wilderness began.’ In 1995, Praveen, who was born in Uganda, but whose family moved to the UK during challenging times postindependence, returned to Rwanda with a big dream: to kick-start gorilla tourism after the 1994 genocide. It is these great apes, with which we share 98 per cent of the same DNA, that I’m here to spend time with, so the next morning I’m up at dawn, striking out over fields planted with Irish potatoes and the daisy-like pyrethrum, grown to make a natural insecticide, ready to begin my ascent in search of the Muhoza gorilla family, one in 11 habituated (accustomed to people) gorilla groups. While walking, I have the etiquette surrounding any encounter with a mountain gorilla drilled into me (to crouch and offer a ‘mm mer’ if threatened, which is gorilla speak for ‘I’m no threat’) by National Park Ranger,

Christophe, but nothing can really prepare you for the moment you come face to face with one. This occurs after 40 minutes of climbing through ancient forest on a nettle-strewn path, when a juvenile male swings on a mossy vine before my eyes. Next, a female emerges from the ferns with an infant on her back, which peers over the top of his mother’s head to lock huge, round, brown eyes with mine. And when the fine figure of silverback Marambo comes into view with all 198kg of his muscles rippling, and moves stealthily towards us, I’m pretty sure that I forget to breathe

until I’m reminded by Christophe that at this moment a ‘Mm mer’ might be a good idea. I spend a spell-binding hour within Marambo’s royal court, observing the gorillas’ meticulous grooming, steady chomping, recreational play (game of chase anyone?) and mating habits (so enthusiastically performed, I couldn’t stop blushing the entire time), reminding myself constantly to take my mental pictures first before raising my camera.

Suites at luxury Virunga Lodge are reflective of the local culture with an emphasis on traditional furnishings

Saving Rwanda’s Mountain Gorilla

According to a 2019 census, there are precisely 1063 mountain gorillas left

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in the wild, with 604 in Volcanoes National Park (a string of dormant volcanoes that make up the Virunga Massif) shared by Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo, and the remaining 459 in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park in Uganda. As I gaze upon Marambo and his family, I’m reminded of famous gorilla conservationist, Dian Fossey’s words: ‘When you realise the value of all life, you dwell less on what is past and concentrate more on the preservation of the future.’ It’s clear that the continuation of responsible gorilla tourism (small group visits for one hour once-a-day to each gorilla family) is key to these gorillas’ future. As well as tracking mountain gorillas and the endangered golden monkeys, with their adorable puff ball faces, you’re encouraged to strike out for a walk within local communities. ‘If you don’t like people, then Virunga’s probably not for you,’ jokes Praveen. On one such gentle morning stroll, I soon spot water tanks marked with the Volcanoes Safaris’ logo that have been donated to almost 300 homes. I meet a trio of giggling four-year olds in matching uniform of red gingham shirts and skirts making their way to school; a female octogenarian smoking a pipe, who wishes me a ‘mwaramutse‘ (good morning) and a young guy spreading shogun seeds on to a mat to dry – the key ingredient in a home-brew of banana beer. The soundtrack to my walk is the bleat of sheep as every family now are proud owners since Virunga Lodge launched the ‘One Sheep per Family’ project in 2014, which provides a steady supply of manure and, through a breeding programme, lambs to sell

WHEN THE FINE FIGURE OF SILVERBACK MARAMBO COMES INTO VIEW WITH ALL 198KG OF HIS MUSCLES RIPPLING, AND MOVES STEALTHILY TOWARDS US, I’M PRETTY SURE THAT I FORGET TO BREATHE at market. This isn’t just lip service, it’s very clear to see that within this tiny Rwandan community Volcanoes Safaris is making a huge difference. In Uganda it’s the same: at Gahinga, a village has been built for the disenfranchised Batwa community (the original hunters and gathers of the Virunga, who were evicted from their forest homes when it became a national park); and at Bwindi training in hospitality is offered at the Bwindi Bar (pop in here to try the delicious signature Gorillini cocktail) to local disadvantaged youngsters, many of who are offered full-time employment within the lodges. Not to mention the support given to women’s co-operatives, youth groups, and ongoing gorilla and chimp conservation, such as the Mountain Gorilla Veterinary Project, that provides essential medical care to gorillas in the wild. As a guest here, it feels an immense privilege to play a small part in all of this good work, and sitting on the terrace of Virunga Lodge as day morphs to night and the Rwandan sky turns from candyfloss pink to inky mauve, I’m imagining that within the distant forested hills, silverback Marambo and his family are now snugly curled in fresh straw nests, and gazing upwards, just like I am, ready to count their lucky stars.

Volcanoes Safaris Facts Eco credentials: Rainwater is collected, wastewater recycled, solar power harnessed, and single use plastic avoided. Plus, $50 per day for every guest who books goes straight to the Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust, which creates self-sustaining projects that enrich the quality of life in local communities and wildlife conservation. Best time for gorilla tracking: Perfect conditions in Rwanda and Uganda are from June to mid-October or from December to the beginning of March.

There are 1063 mountain gorillas left in the wild

What it costs: Spending time with a mountain gorilla family is one of the world’s greatest wildlife experiences but it comes with a hefty price tag at $1500 (AED 5,509) for a permit per person in Rwanda and $700 (AED 2,571) in Uganda. It’s money well spent though as the fee goes towards conservation work, research, payment of National Park staff, and supporting local communities. A six-day safari starts at $7711 (AED 28,320) per person. For all options of four-to-10-day safaris, visit VolcanoesSafaris.com Kate Wickers is the author of travel memoir, Shape of a Boy, My Family & Other Adventures available now on Amazon.

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Fresh A A Breath of

Blow away the cobwebs and connect with the great outdoors at the very best UAE nature spots

BY HARRIET SHEPHARD

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t’s no secret that spending time in nature brings multiple benefits. From improved mental health to lower blood pressure and higher concentration levels, there are numerous reasons why you should love and embrace the great outdoors. Fortunately, the UAE is home to an array of diverse and fascinating natural environments. Spanning vast deserts, dense mangrove forests and enormous jagged mountains, endless invigorating adventures await beyond the glittering city skylines. Plus, now that the weather is at its coolest and most pleasant, there has never been a better time to discover the very best of the UAE’s nature spots.

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Air

HATTA, DUBAI

Providing a refreshing contrast to Dubai’s pristine malls and futuristic buildings, Hatta is the ultimate hotspot for an outdoorsy weekend adventure. Although rather touristy at peak times due to its Instagramfriendly vistas, its raw and rugged beauty is totally undeniable. Paddle on a kayak through the dramatic spiky mountains and azure waters of Hatta Dam, explore some of the breathtaking hiking trails, and don’t forget to stop by the Hollywood-esque Hatta sign for a classic ‘I-made-it-to-the-top’ selfie. Around a 90-minute drive from Dubai, and just under three hours’ from Abu Dhabi, there are plenty of campsites, trendy lodges and chic trailers if you fancy turning your excursion into a few days away to get back to nature. visithatta.com/en.

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JEBEL JAIS, RAS AL KHAIMAH

Standing at 1,934 metres above sea level, the majestic Jebel Jais is the highest mountain in the UAE. While driving up its steep and winding hairpin bends is a thrill in itself, the real treasures are found along its many walking trails. There is a choice of easy to moderate routes which start from the lower car parking areas, while the Ghaf Summit Trail leads right to the top. The air here feels beyond therapeutically fresh and the panoramic views across the deep chasms and high peaks are simply phenomenal. There are plenty of food trucks along the way or – for a real treat – you can always book yourself a table on the terrace at trendy 1484 by Puro, the UAE’s highest restaurant, which literally takes local cuisine to new heights. visitjebeljais.com.

AL WATHBA FOSSIL DUNES RESERVE, ABU DHABI Jutting out of the sand in strange, ethereal and wave-like formations, the four-million-year-old fossil dunes of the Al Wathba desert are a surreal and mesmerising sight. In 2022 these geological wonders were recognised as a protected area, and now visitors can admire more than 1,700 of them from trails covering around sevensquare km. The nearby Al Wathba Wetland Reserve is also worth a visit. Famous for its 4,000-plus population of Greater Flamingos that live there during autumn and spring, there are also more than 250 other species of birds, 37 species of plants and a wide range of aquatic life. visitabudhabi.ae.

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MANGROVE NATIONAL PARK, ABU DHABI There are various ways to explore the capital’s precious mangrove trees. For a quick and easy immersion into true UAE nature, simply hire a kayak from Seahawk Water Sports in Reem Central Park and admire the contrast between the vibrant green leaves and shimmering skyscrapers as shoals of silver fish flash past beneath you. For a thorough respite from the city, head to the boardwalks of Jubail Mangrove Park for a gentle stroll or to the Eastern Mangroves Promenade to try stand up paddle boarding, hire a boat or, if you’re feeling really energetic, join one of the dragon boating teams for a heart-thumping workout. Home to turtles, dugongs, dolphins, 60 different species of bird and many more fascinating creatures, over 75 per cent of the UAE’s mangrove trees are found in this stunning protected area. sea-hawk.ae and jubailisland.ae/jubail-mangrove-park.

AL HENNA TRAIL, FUJAIRAH

One glance at the sulphur pools and extraordinarily steep canyons of the Al Henna Trail, or Wadi Dahir as it is also known, is enough to demonstrate why hiking in the UAE is so popular. Found in Fujairah’s Hajar Mountains, the picturesque route takes you past ancient farms, palm plantations and wide rocky valleys. Letting you step back in time and discover a more authentic side to the UAE, the loop walk can be adapted to cover distances as short as 3 km or as long as 11 km to suit a range of ages, abilities and fitness levels. While it is possible to hike the Trail independently, joining a tour, such as the ones offered by ECC Adventures, helps you to get the most enjoyment out of every exhilerating moment. Make sure you allow time to hang around at the end of the challenge for a while: cooling your hot toes in the icy pools while congratulating your fellow trekkers is a memory that will last a lifetime. eccadventures.com.

AIL AIN OASIS, ABU DHABI

Abundant with lush greenery, the UAE’s ‘Garden City’ is an idyllic spot centred around an enchanting 3,000-acre oasis. Home to 147,000 date and fruit trees, it’s a quiet and peaceful place that feels completely removed from the bustling city centre that surrounds it. Accompanied by the gentle trickling of the 3,000-year-old falaj irrigation channels and the chattering birds, meandering along its cool and shaded paths is immensely relaxing. The sustainably constructed ‘Eco-centre’ showcases the full history of this fascinating UNESCO World Heritage Site and there are also bicycles available for rent if you fancy getting around this beautiful UAE nature spot a little quicker. visitabudhabi.ae.

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BEAUTY

Turn Back The Beauty Clock

Chemical-laden treatments to combat aging are booming, but is there a cleaner approach to younger looking skin? The Ethicalist says, absolutely… BY RACHEL BASSETT

Power-packed natural ingredients

If your bathroom cabinet needs an organic overhaul, there’s a slew of new conscious beauty destinations in the UAE prioritising ingredients that are ethically sourced, cruelty-free and vegan. One trailblazer is Mudra, an all-natural platform introducing Ayurveda-inspired brands. Founded on a system of holistic medicine, expect nature-focused solutions like the Purearth Rose and Seabuck Replenishing Face Cream (AED 395, mudraayurveda.com). A skin-plumping formula packed with antioxidants, it reduces inflammation, repairs cell membranes and supports skin cell function.

n the ever-evolving world of anti-aging beauty, a new hero chemical conquers pharmacy shelves each week. But beneath the lofty promises to turn back the clock often lies synthetic substances, hormone disruptors and carcinogenic solvents. According to the Environmental Working Group, women expose themselves to a staggering average of 168 chemicals before they’ve even left the house. And while not all chemicals are harmful they’re not all legally regulated. But what if you want an ethical lifestyle and don’t want to sacrifice an effective beauty regimen? Should you succumb to toxic formulations or simply miss out? Don’t worry as there are greener ways of looking and feeling your best without using ingredients you can’t pronounce…

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See the light

Since trendy Californian clinic, Skin Laundry, came to Dubai and Abu Dhabi, laser facial fever has officially hit the UAE. Offering tailored treatment plans starting at AED 915, Skin Laundry’s Dr Fatima Ellouh says the advantages surpass those of regular facials. ‘Light energy is delivered to stimulate skin cells to regenerate and restore a youthful appearance, correct pigment, improve texture and treat acne,’ she says. But what if similar results could be achieved from your sofa? Enter the Angela Caglia Cellreturn Premium LED Mask (AED 6246 Net-a-Porter) Taking self-care Sundays to a whole new level, the wireless mask emits both red and blue light therapy to penetrate beyond the dermis layer of your face.

Feed your inner beauty

True wellness starts from within and while stocking up on essential nutrients from fruit and vegetables is imperative, there are other ways to get an extra hit of hero ingredients. UK based Raw Beauty Lab is just one of the latest wellness brands to develop delicious vegan collagen supplements that seamlessly stir into your everyday smoothies, coffee, water or oats. Try the award-winning Vegan Collagen Superfood powder (AED 156 rawbeautylab. com) for hydrated, glowing skin on-the-go.

Going to the extremes

For the brave beauty buffs among you microneedling could provide the resurfaced skin you’ve been craving. Lie back as nano-sized needles create microscopic punctures in the skin’s surface, scientifically kick-starting its own repair process. One session at Browns & Co starts at AED 1,260 with up to six sessions required. Aesthetics Specialist Trishna Mistry says the treatment is an ideal alternative to botox or acidic peels. Not a fan of needles? Maybe the ice-cool allure of cryotherapy can entice you. In the quest for firmer, revitalized skin, many head to DIFC-based Resync’s Whole Body Cryotherapy Chamber (AED 350) for up to three minutes in oxygen-enriched temperatures of -110°C. Afterwards, the body undergoes a rush of oxygenated blood toward your organs, producing a mega surge in circulation and cell rejuvenation. The result? Energized skin, alleviated joint pain and a strengthened immune system.

Rebooting your beauty toolbox

An influx of revolutionary clean tech tools on the market means there’s even less excuse to resort to potent potions. Consider a rose quartz gua sha (AED 175, bloomingdales.ae) your secret weapon against fine lines and wrinkles. Use the stone massage tool (assisted by your favourite face oil) to swipe in an outward motion along your jawline, cheekbones and forehead for daily lymphatic drainage and boosted blood circulation. Say hello to a more sculpted face and chiselled cheekbones within weeks.

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Since 2005, Lush SHAmpoo Bars HAve saved tHE use of nearly 170 milliON plastic bottles from lANdfill, which is estimatED to be ovER 4000 tONnes of plastic avoidED.

Seanik Shampoo Bar For beautifully buoyant hair, get swept up in a blend of volumising fine sea salt and softening nori seaweed. “My hair is now much thicker, bouncy and does not get greasy. I really did not expect such drastic results. I now only have to wash my hair 1-2 times a week and I don’t have to use a conditioner.” – Customer Testimonial

Seanik shampoo bar

BEAUTY SKIN (anticlockwise) ILIA Beyond Triple Serum, SPF 40 Tone 2, AED 299, powderbeauty. com Róen Beauty Roglow Skin Stick Highlighter in Glaze, AED 195, niche-beauty.com Róen Beauty Cheeky Blush, peach flush, AED 140, powderbeauty.com Hello Sunday The Retouch One SPF30, AED 100, niche-beauty.com

EYES ILIA Fullest Volumizing Mascara in Black, AED 131, powderbeauty.com Róen Beauty Gold Lust Palette, AED 185, powderbeauty.com

HAIR Oribe Après Beach Wave And Shine Spray, AED 179 Oribe Dry Texturising Spray, AED 205, both powderbeauty.com

LIPS Róen Beauty Kiss My Liquid Lip Balm Shimmer, nude rose, AED 95, powderbeauty.com

Get the look Be a desert rose with this pretty-in-pink and luxe gold makeover from our White Heat fashion shoot

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How to cope when your partner doesn’t care about

CLIMATE CHANGE

You recycle. He buys everything in plastic containers. You drive an electric car. He hops on and off planes like buses. Here’s how to change his behaviour to benefit you, the planet and save your relationship BY CHRISTINE FIELDHOUSE

or the last five years, Fel ic it y ha s done everything she can to care for the environment and to halt climate change. She cycles and walks instead of taking her electric car on shorter journeys, often stopping to pick up litter. The tumble dryer stands redundant in her utility room and she cooks vegetarian meals for the family five times a week. On top of that, she recycles everything she can from her toothpaste tubes to her children’s crisp packets. Her clothes are from sustainable fashion lines or vintage, picked up from second hand shops, and she even has a wormery so waste food can be used to feed her garden. As well as a weekly trip to the refill shop, she’s banned plastic in her house. Sounds like the perfect eco household? Well, almost. Except that her husband Tomas insists on eating meat whenever he’s out, brings home bags full of products in plastic and thinks nothing of using the car to pop to the shop just down the road. Tomas doesn’t care if things have palm oil in them – as long as they taste good.

And he’s always surprising Felicity with romantic trips to Europe which means flying and adding to her carbon footprint which contributes to global warming. ‘Tom makes me angry,’ says marketing director Felicity, 47. ‘I tell him we won’t have a planet for any future grandchildren, or their children, if we carry on like this but that doesn’t bother him. I ask him to think about our children – they’re eight and 12. Even that doesn’t help. He carries on eating meat, throwing everything into landfill and ignoring the news about the climate crisis, extreme weather and ocean pollution. ‘We end up having enormous rows. Several times a year I wonder if I can carry on living with him. But then I remember he’s a good husband, and dad, and I love him. I just don’t love his attitude to the environment.’ It may be extremely infuriating for Felicity but she’s not alone. According to experts, many couples have a disconnect in their attitude to climate change. When researchers at the Yale Program on Climate Change Communication in the US surveyed 758 couples, they found only 38 per cent of them shared the same

beliefs. Even more worrying, just 31 per cent shared the same behaviour, such as donating to climate change causes and signing petitions. The London-based market research company Mintel discovered 71 per cent of women ‘try to live more ethically’, compared to 59 per cent of men. Habits examined include recycling, water conservation in the home and composting food waste. Becki Houlston, a UK-based therapist, says this boils down to a difference in our values and it’s a common problem between couples – one that could take them to the brink of divorce or even cause a break up. ‘Values are what we consider important to us in life so if making a difference or saving the planet is important to one person, and not to the other, you’re likely to have a conflict of values,’ she explains. ‘When someone doesn’t acknowledge or follow what we think is important, we can attach the meaning that we don’t matter to them and it can drive a wedge between us and cause arguments and a power struggle. It can lead to the eventual breakdown of the

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RELATIONSHIPS

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relationship.’ Jasmine Navarro, who runs NAVA, a coaching business in Dubai, agrees. ‘We all know the saying that opposites attract and it is true,’ she says. ‘Nearly all couples have some differences between them. It could be what music they like and whether they’re a football fan or not. ‘In the case of climate change, it can be tricky to negotiate practical matters like, for example, what food you buy at the supermarket. If one wants to buy products without plastic packaging but the other insists that their favourite brand is better, even if it does come in a plastic bottle, that can lead to clashes.’ The fundamental problem is that we didn’t deliberately choose a partner who wouldn’t recycle, eat vegetarian food or drive an electric car. When many long-term couples got together, we weren’t as aware of the urgency to protect the planet and the environment as we are today. ‘Although scientists have been sounding the alarm about climate change for more than three decades, there are still people who haven’t understood the messages they’ve been trying to give us,’ continues Jasmine. ‘While some people have been recycling for years, others are just starting to do it. Even those who take environmental issues seriously can have a different sense of urgency.’ Some dating apps, such as OKCupid, now allow users to choose a green mate. But what if we’ve already settled with a climate denier? Can we persuade them to change their mindset and behaviour? Yes, say the experts who have shared their top tips with The Ethicalist so we can all end up with a like-minded partner.

Start Small ‘Every area of our lives affects the climate crisis,’ says Jasmine, who coaches adults through life changes. ‘Take the furniture you’re sitting on right now and the clothes you’re wearing. Were they made sustainably? It can be overwhelming to realise how much living in a developed country contributes to climate change. ‘If you’re trying to help your partner to become more eco-friendly, pick something that’s easy to change – like remembering to take a reusable shopping bag to the store. That way,

you’ll get an easy win and you’ll all feel motivated to continue. Small, regular habits take about 20 repetitions of the behaviour before they become engrained as a habit. Your partner could put the bags on the inside of the front door or in their car boot. After a few weeks they won’t need the reminder. It’s now a habit. ‘Do this for each new behaviour, waiting for it to become a habit before moving on to the next.’

Devise Dealbreakers Start by agreeing on a few things that are really important to you, suggests Becki. It might be that agreeing to ban

‘If saving the planet is important to one person in a couple and not the other there’s likely to be a conflict of values. It can cause arguments and a power struggle. It can even lead to a breakdown of the relationship’ plastic, or cutting down on the number of short haul flights you do as a couple would ease the conflict between you. When you see your partner making an effort, you’ll feel as if your values are being recognised.’

Note Your Tone When you feel passionate about a cause and frustrated with a partner, it’s easy to get angry and flare up. ‘Show them respect so they will show it back to you. When you’re putting your point across, you can remind them that an eco-friendly lifestyle will not only benefit the planet and wildlife but your partner, too. ‘By switching from tumble drying to hang drying, you can cut your electricity bill. Buying organic boosts physical and mental health and cycling to work rather than driving will keep you active. Pointing out the positive aspects of going green can help your partner see things in a different light.’

Offer To Help Sometimes, we’re so perplexed by an issue that we avoid it. But a little guidance could work wonders. ‘Starting a new practice can be overwhelming,’ Becki says. ‘Your partner might be perfectly willing to get refills from the environment shop, but they may be clueless about the containers they need, and even what

to do once they’re in the store. Go with them the first time. Show them what needs doing and how easy it would be.’

Meet Halfway See your partner’s unwillingness to get involved in environmental issues as a temporary situation, recommends Jasmine. ‘In the meantime, be a good role model,’ she says. ‘Start with your own shopping habits, recycling and carbon-reducing activities and talk to them about the positive benefits you’re experiencing. Hopefully, he will want to copy you. Make recycling easy at home. If a recycling bin is close by, people are more likely to use it.’

Join A Community If you feel you’re not getting any support or understanding for your conservation efforts or anxieties at home, joining a group will give you a great sense of community. ‘Spending time on issues we care about is important for our own sense of identity and wellbeing,’ says Jasmine. ‘If one partner wants to spend two hours on a beach clean up, it’ll be rewarding for them and it gives their partner a chance to do some of their favourite activities, too. When people feel fulfilled as individuals, they bring a lot more to the partnership.’ • www.withnava.com • www. beckihoulston.co.uk

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NATURALLY

BEAUTIFUL BAMBUYU TISSUES: MADE FROM 100% BAMBOO FREE OF TREES, FREE OF PLASTIC PACKAGING bambuyu.com

BY HOLLY CATLING | ILLUSTRATIONS BY LEONA BETH

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PARENTING

ourists might flock to Dubai for its luxury hotels, golden beaches and glitzy nightlife, but there’s a flip side to this glamorous, fivestar destination that often goes unnoticed. For beneath the glossy facade of decadent brunches and Instagram influencers, many expat families are choosing to live a quieter, more wholesome kind of lifestyle – deliberately eschewing the trappings of Dubai’s dazzling reputation and instead doing their best to live as greenly as possible in the City of Gold. But it’s not always easy. From the glittering lustre of the Burj Al Arab’s golden elevators to the twinkling of the Burj Khalifa’s silverspangled silhouette, Dubai has earned its luxe reputation for good reason. And although some aspects of life are undeniably easier as a Dubai expat parent – nannies, cooks and drivers are commonplace, for example – it’s certainly not always easy being green. So, here are some ‘Dubai problems’ that only eco-minded UAE mums and dads will understand...

Your eight-year-old son relays a story from a YouTube show you would never allow him to watch, explaining: ‘The driver let me watch it on his phone while we were waiting for the Tesla to charge up, Mummy.’ The healthy, organic seaweed crisps you felt so smug about your child eating are packaged in three whole different layers of single-use plastic (four if you buy the multipack). Just as you de-plastify the toy box, your child returns from a birthday party with a loot bag full of landfill-destined tat. Although you love that your little one knows to say “No” to plastic straws in the cafe, you have to admit you’re not so keen on the torrential spillage that ensues when you forget to bring their sippy cup.

You’ve taught your child that balloons are no good for the environment but when the kind server at the restaurant proudly presents your little girl with one as a gift, you give in (he’s so delighted and eager to please that you don’t have the heart to reject it!).

You tried to be sustainable by buying your son’s desk on Dubizzle but one seller ghosted you; another wasn’t in at the time you’d agreed you’d come to collect and the final one you committed to buying ended up being a miniature version of a desk that looked good in the photo but would only fit in a doll’s house in real life.

Your eco dreams of dressing your little girl in only gender-neutral organic clothing instantly evaporated when she was given a polyester princess dress that she now refuses to take off.

Nothing challenges the decision to wear a homemade, all-natural deodorant so much as doing the school run in the height of a Dubai summer. Spare shirt anyone?

You tried oh-so-very-hard to compost, but the stench of fruit and vegetables rotting under the searing desert heat in your back yard got you blacklisted as a nightmare neighbour.

Your intricately balanced recycling and food waste system implodes every week when the lady who comes in to cook for you and the kids throws half the food waste in the recycling bin and half the recycling waste in the main bin.

‘You know I only like the pink organic vegan marshmallows, Mummy!’ has been an actual complaint in your house.

It’s your child’s birthday and you’d love to give out some homemade cookies as a treat for everyone, but school hygiene rules mean they must all be individually wrapped in cellophane.

You’ve finally converted your very picky eater son to have vegan hot dogs for his packed lunch, and then the school complains that they don’t meet their new healthy eating guidelines.

The banana you bought as a healthysnack-on-the-go for your child arrives entirely wrapped in multiple layers of cling film.

Sometimes grocery shopping feels like an eco-parenting multiple-choice test that is rigged to ensure you fail. ‘Should I buy the organic capsicums with a high carbon footprint, having been flown all the way from Holland? Or the lowair-miles local peppers that have been farmed with pesticides on them?’

When your child comes home with a project for their art homework about recycling that requires used plastic water bottles and an old newspaper, you find yourself having to drive to the nearest supermarket just so you can buy a plastic bottle of water and a newspaper.

gates in summer, the outdoor temperature is hotter than the face of the sun and if you didn’t have the AC on you would literally pass out.

While you agree with Greta Thunberg and the need to cut down on flying, the expat lifestyle of limited annual leave and family located on the other side of the world mean that you feel like a hugehypocrite a lot of the time (carbon-credit guilt-cleanse?). You finally get a water filter fitted on the kitchen sink. Then your whole family whines for the chilled plastic bottle dispenser again because ‘the cold tap water doesn’t come out cold enough.’ As much as you’d love to turn off the car engine when waiting outside the school

Your teenager announces he won’t learn to drive because he cares about the environment. When you ask how he’ll get around the Dubai suburbs without a car, his reply is: ‘Uber or Careem, of course’. The cute bamboo lunchbox you bought in an attempt to eschew plastic was smashed to smithereens when your daughter dropped it on the first day at school #sustainabilityfail. Your kids call your electric vehicle ‘the toothbrush car’ because it needs charging up so often. Your toddler can now legitimately order herself an oat milk babyccino asking: ‘Is the chocolate powder Fairtrade?’

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2023/11/10 12:44

PERSONALITY

ECO ICON:

Jane Goodall She’s the world’s expert on chimpanzees after studying them in the wild for 60 years, and now primatologist Jane Goodall is working to pass on a ‘healthy and sustainable’ planet to future generations

he 89-year-old is a UN Messenger of Peace, on the board of the Nonhuman Rights Project to ensure animals are not imprisoned or experimented upon, and is also an honorary member of the World Future Council as well as a dame. Oh, and she has also been made into an eco-Barbie complete with adorable baby chimp. Here are some of our favourite quotes from when the ethologist, who redefined what it means to be human, was in Dubai recently.

Out of Africa

‘I saved my pocket money and I found a very early, cheap second-hand edition of Tarzan of the Apes. I read this book from cover to cover, and, of course, I fell passionately in love with this glorious lord of the jungle. And what did he go and do? He married the wrong Jane. ‘That’s when my dream began. I thought: “I will go to Africa, I will live with wild animals, and I will write books about them.” There wasn’t any thought of being a scientist; girls didn’t do that sort of thing back then. Everybody laughed at me, saying: “Africa’s far away. You don’t have money. It’s full of dangerous wild animals, and you’re just a girl.” ‘But my mother said: “Jane, if you really want to do something like this, you have to work hard, you have to take advantage of every opportunity,

and then, if you don’t give up, hopefully you will find a way.”’

carried him around, shared his food and his nest with him, and no doubt saved his life.’

Apartheid Horror

Captivity & Conservation

‘The first place I set foot in Africa was Cape Town. I loved it until I started reading signs on the backs of the seats and doors in hotels and restaurants in Afrikaans saying ‘slegs blankes’. I had to ask what it meant: white people only. I didn’t like Cape Town after that because I wasn’t brought up to judge people by the colour of their skin. I couldn’t wait to leave.’

Violence and Kindness

‘I thought chimps were just like us but nicer but they, like we do, have a dark and aggressive side, and they’re capable of violence, brutality, killing, and a kind of primitive war. ‘But also, like us, they have a loving, compassionate, and altruistic side, so an adult male may adopt an orphan whose mother has died. There was this little infant, we thought he would die as there was nobody looking after him. And then, to our amazement, a 12-year-old lone male adopted him,

LEFT: Jane with the gorillas in the wild in 1990 RIGHT: Single, older, male gorillas will adopt orphans

‘In 1986, 35 years after I first began the study of chimpanzees, we had a conference for all the people studying chimps in different environments. ‘During one session, we discussed conditions in captivity and I couldn’t sleep for nights after seeing our closest relatives in cages 5ft by 5ft square, and only 7ft high. There was nothing in them, just bars. If they were lucky, they got a tyre to sit on. ‘I went to that conference a scientist. I left four days later as an activist. I knew I had to do something. It started a very long effort to get chimpanzees out of medical research, and about five years ago that came to fruition. I don’t think there are any chimps in medical research anywhere in the world anymore.

Nature’s Resilience

‘A place we’ve destroyed can, with time, allow nature back.’

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THE

November 2023 – January 2024

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ET H I CA L I S T

T H E

U A E ’ S

F I R S T

S U S T A I N A B L E

L I F E S T Y L E

M A G A Z I N E

GORILLAS IN THE WILD Saving the great (and baby) apes in Rwanda

O V E R P O P U L AT I O N

REAL LIFE

R E L AT I O N S H I P S

Is it selfish to have another baby?

‘I rowed across the Atlantic to save our oceans’

When your partner doesn’t care about the climate crisis

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2023/11/10 07:32