The Cultured Traveller, March-May 2020 Issue 29

UK £10

➤ ISSUE

EU €10

29

M A RC H – M AY 2 0 2 0

Cultured T H E

T R AV E L L E R

Zürich THE SWISS CITY THAT IS FULL OF SURPRISES

L O ŠI NJ I S L A N D ➤ L A K E C OMO ➤ GL OR I A E ST E FA N ➤ KO PHRA THRONG ➤ KARL LAGERFELD BARCELONA ➤ SAM MCKNIGHT

Relish the rose harvest season with a curated rose-inspired experience!

Overlooking the canyons of the Al Hajar mountains and situated 2,000 metres above sea level, Alila Jabal Akhdar invites guests from across the world to celebrate the much-awaited rose harvest season.

We provide guests with a plethora of offerings and experiences such as an expert-guided tour, a relaxing rose petal ritual paired with a glass of chilled sparkling rose and a Spa Alila signature rose treatment that benefits from the medicinal properties of a naturally infused rose petal oil.

All this and more.

e jabalakhdar@alilahotels.com

t +968 2534 4200 or +968 9910 4204

#AlilaJabalAkhdar @alilajabalakhdar

alilahotels.com/jabalakhdar

Welcome to Raffles Maldives Meradhoo A new paradise, your Marine Butler awaits you‌ Legendary Service since 1887

50 SWITZERLAND’S COOLEST METROPOLIS With its ancient charm and new age mindset, ZÜRICH offers surprises around every cobbled corner. Beyond its reputation as a secretive, business-obsessed banking haven, Dawn Gibson discovers that there’s much to intrigue the cultured traveller in the country’s largest city, from marvelous medieval guild-houses to pulsing post-industrial neighbourhoods that come alive after dark

158 T H E OR IGI NA L L AT I N P OP STA R Winner of seven Grammys, with global album sales in excess of

6

ISSUE 2 9 ➤ MA RCH – MAY 2020

100 million, Nicholas Chrisostomou chats to the original Latin pop icon, GLORIA ESTEFAN, about being a hotelier and her incredible forty-five-year career.

18 0 R OYA L O S T E O P E R O S I S S O C I E T Y ’ S A N N UA L NIGHT OF GLAMOUR Presided over by HRH The Duchess of Cornwall, this annual gala dinner has become a fixture in the diaries of London’s glam and famous, not least for the exclusive JULIEN MACDONALD catwalk show which crowns the event.

The Cultured Traveller joins London’s fashionistas at the spectacular Banqueting House in Whitehall.

IS SU E 29 ➤ M A RCH – M AY 2020

highlights

14 2 S R I L A N K A’ S SEAFOOD DIAMONDS Ashlee Starratt dons an apron and grabs some crab crackers to find out what makes Sri Lanka’s most famous eatery – MINISTRY OF CRAB – the ultimate celebration of the Indian Ocean island’s bountiful seafood.

30 THAI H O S P I T A L I T Y H E AV E N An hour north of overdeveloped Phuket lies the equally beautiful but much more genteel Khao Lak coastline. Here, white powder sands are surrounded by lush vegetation and a mountainous interior slopes gently towards a stunning

11-kilometre beach upon which THE SAROJIN sits.

Alex Benasuli checks out the resort’s inimitable location.

48 WIN FOUR NIGHTS IN MEXICO’ S HEART Located in the heart of the nation’s capital, on one of world’s most iconic avenues, SOFITEL MEXICO CITY REFORMA is the modern French luxury hospitality brand’s first property in Mexico.

Win a four-night stay in a luxury room, including dinner for two at the hotel’s contemporary Mexican restaurant, Bajel.

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

7

114

152 171

CONTENTS 12 C ON T R I BU T OR S

THE DATAI LANGKAWI, nestled in the heart of an ancient rainforest on the Malaysian island of Langkawi.

14 N E W S F L A S H

98 SUITE ENVY

Browse our round-up of the most fascinating cultural experiences and unmissable festivals happening around the world in the next three months, including CUMBRE TAJÍN in the central Mexican state of Veracruz; the twenty-first annual CAPE TOWN JAZZ FESTIVAL; California’s glossy, glam and heated answer to the wet and mud of Glastonbury, COACHELLA; one of the most important events in the international ballet calendar, DANCE OPEN, and the world’s biggest knees-up in the snow, SNOWBOMBING.

Occupying six floors above Cape Town’s ground-breaking Zeitz MOCAA art museum, THE SILO has redrawn Cape Town’s hospitality landscape since opening in 2017. Sparkling above the V&A Waterfront like an industrial-chic jewellery box, Nicholas Chrisostomou unpacks his cases in one of the hotel’s royal suites and sees the Mother City from a different perspective.

10 E D I T O R ’ S L E T T E R

3 0 R E ST YOU R H E A D

98

The Cultured Traveller checks into AMANGALLA, the hospitality centrepiece of enchanting Galle Fort in Sri Lanka; the Maldives’ first immersive art resort, JOALI; luxury eco-resort ISLAS SECAS, set on a private 14-island archipelago in the Gulf of Chiriquí, on the Pacific coast of Panama; SIX SENSES MAXWELL, housed within a whole block of heritage shop houses in Singapore’s bustling Chinatown, and

10 8 F I V E M I N U T E S W I T H Years after cutting off Princess Diana’s hair and styling more than 100 Vogue covers, SAM Mc KNIGHT is still at the top of his game. The Cultured Traveller has a quick natter with the celebrated hairstylist.

110 S K Y B R I E F There is always something exciting, fast and thrilling happening in the world of aviation and flight. In The Cultured Traveller’s seasonal round-up of global air travel news, the world’s largest twin-engined passenger jet takes flight, Singapore’s Changi is named the world’s

108

8

ISSUE 2 9 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

14 best airport (again), and planet earth’s first space tourists looks set to lift off soon, on Virgin Galactic’s SpaceShipTwo.

114 N O S H O E S R E Q U I R E D Relatively untouched by civilisation let alone tourism, golden sands, tropical savannah, great natural beauty and idyllic wilderness greet Alex Benasuli on the uniquely unspoilt island of KOH PHRA THONG, a little north of Khao Lak, on Thailand’s Andaman coast.

12 2 T R AV E L L E R L O W D O W N Located in the central northern Adriatic, LOŠINJ was the preferred holiday resort of Austro-Hungarian emperor Franz-Josef. Renowned today as an ‘island of wellness and vitality’, Nicholas Chrisostomou explores the near-pristine isle and dives in turquoise seas, explores rugged scenery, feasts on freshly caught fish and enjoys the warmest of Croatian welcomes.

Zürich’s new arty local brasserie, BAUR’S, which is the latest gastronomic offering from iconic Swiss hospitality institution Baur Au Lac, and was designed by New York-based Martin Brudnizki Design Studio.

14 6 TA S T E & S I P N E WC O M E R Nicholas Chrisostomou road-tests

110

1 5 2 B A R C E L O N A’ S FOOD SCENE From the humble market to the lofty heights of Michelin stardom, BARCELONA’s culinary landscape is a colourful canvas that demands to be explored. Joe Mortimer discovers the secrets of this foodie paradise.

17 1 FA S H I O N ’ S GR E AT E S T E M P E R OR A titan of the industry, whose creative career spanned seven decades, KARL LAGERFELD was the epitome of a grand dame fashion designer in every sense of the word. The Cultured Traveller looks back at the career of a true fashion icon.

13 0 S P O T L I GH T Skimming across the azure waters of LAKE COMO on a classic wooden speedboat, Alex Benasuli rediscovers that old school Italian glamour never goes out of fashion, and a few days of la dolce vita never felt so good!

30

18 2 L I T T L E B L AC K B O OK

146

1 8 4 T R AV E L T I P S FROM THE TOP International swimwear queen MELISSA ODABASH takes time out of her hectic schedule to give us her tips to make travelling even more pleasurable.

122

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

9

EDITOR’ S LET TER

From left to right: Gloria Estefan; Zürich; Lake Como; Lošinj Island

8

SPRING IS A TIME OF renewed energy, fresh goals and, most fun of all, booking summer holidays. With the silly season all but a distant memory, at the first sign of daffodils’ slim green blades appearing in March, I’m all about planning my mid-year trips and looking ahead to the warmer months. Yet, something I’ve only learnt in the past few years: one doesn’t necessarily have to travel far to be immersed in a rather special experience.

Until visiting the Croatian island of Lošinj – in the central northern Adriatic, just a stone’s throw from Italy – I didn’t realise that such near-pristine natural beauty could be enjoyed within just a few hours’ flight from London.

And until relatively recently, Zürich was commonly associated with business and semisecretive banking rather than being an exciting city break destination. Both are featured in this issue, as Dawn Gibson discovers that around every cobbled corner, there is much to intrigue a seasoned globetrotter in Switzerland’s largest city (p50), while I jump off a boat into clear turquoise waters off the coast of uninhabited islands in the Lošinj archipelago (p122).

As he’s speeding across the waters of Lake Como, Alex Benasuli rediscovers that old school Italian glamour never goes out of fashion (page130); Ashlee Starratt gets her fingers dirty feasting on fresh Sri Lankan mud crab at one of Asia’s 50 best restaurants (p142) and, from humble markets to the lofty

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

heights of Michelin stardom, Joe Mortimer discovers the secrets of Barcelona’s enticing food scene (p152).

A titan of the industry and one of the greatest designers of all time, we look back at the career of Karl Lagerfeld – a true fashion legend (p171), and we sit down with the original Latin pop icon, Gloria Estefan, to chat about being a hotelier and her incredible career (p158).

With Switzerland, Spain, the Maldives, Panama, Thailand, South Africa, Sri Lanka and many more countries visited in this issue, The Cultured Traveller showcases the world’s travel hotspots so you can spend more time planning your next exciting excursion. I hope that you find a destination in this issue to persuade you to book your next trip and have something colourful in your 2020 diary to look forward to.

Nicholas Chrisostomou Editor-in-Chief

Visit the landmark Hotel Grande Bretagne and receive the unique chance of a lifetime experience through a collection of utmost accommodation services and indulging moments.

The mythical views and the history of Europe’s oldest capital, Athens, promise to compose an unsurpassed cultural journey through its indigenous sights and unique flavors.

EXPLORE THE DESTINATION AT GRANDEBRETAGNE.GR

MH.T.E.: 0206K015A0021500

©2019 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

ETERNAL ELEGANCE

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

N I C H O L AS C H R I S O STO M O U

D AW N G I B S O N ➤ CITY FOCUS ON ZÜRICH

Dawn Gibson is a globe-trotting journalist who has visited more than 30 countries and is yet to meet a cuisine she doesn’t like. Based near London, her recent adventures include a sojourn to England’s picturesque Peak District, where she discovered ridiculously large Yorkshire Puddings.

P U B L I S H E R C O C O L AT T É FA S H I O N F E AT U R E S A D R I A N G I B S O N DESIGN STUART MANNING PICTURE EDITING STELLA ALEVIZAKI THIS ISSUE’S CONTRIBUTORS

Dawn Gibson, Joe Mortimer, Alex Benasuli, Ashlee Starratt WITH THANKS TO

CONTRIBUTORS

Gloria Estefan, Sam McKnight, Melissa Odabash, Martin B Jones, Frank Amadeo

12

The Cultured Traveller magazine is published by Coco Latté

ALEX BENASU LI

Advertising and sponsorship enquiries: ads@theculturedtraveller.com Editorial enquiries words@theculturedtraveller.com Subscription enquiries subscribe@theculturedtraveller.com

➤ LAKE COMO + KOH PHRA THONG

London-based Alex has been globetrotting his whole life. He has explored Europe, Asia and Africa as well as North and South America intimately.

As passionate on a highbrow urban cultural break as he is on an off-the- beaten-track adventure, Alex uses travel to explore his love of history, design, nature and wellness.

T H E C U L T U R E D T R AV E L L E R ➤ ISSUE 29 © 2019 Coco Latté. All rights reserved Reproduction in part or in whole of any part of this magazine is prohibited. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

The views expressed in The Cultured Traveller are those of its respective contributors and writers and are not necessarily shared by The Cultured Traveller Ltd. or its staff.

The Cultured Traveller always welcomes new contributions, but assumes no responsibility for unsolicited emails, articles, photographs or other materials submitted.

Read the digital version of Issue 29 of The Cultured Traveller magazine online at

➤ www.issuu.com/theculturedtraveller/docs/29

JOE MORT I M E R ➤ BARCELONA’S FOOD SCENE

A UK-based travel writer and editor who specialises in luxury travel and high-end hospitality and former editor of Destinations of the World News in Dubai, Joe now contributes to titles including National Geographic Traveler, Robb Report and Jetsetter, as well as a collection of prestigious inflight and hotel magazines.

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

Follow The Cultured Traveller on

F

@theculturedtraveller

d

@culturedtraveller

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R LT D .

C O C O L AT T É , B E N T I N C K H O U S E , 3 - 5 B O L S O V E R ST R E E T, LO N D O N , W 1 W 6 A B , U K

WELCOME TO LAKESIDE LUXURY THE FONTENAY is a reflection of modern Hamburg - an homage to Germany’s largest waterfront city. The new luxury hotel is located

on the tranquil banks of Alster Lake in the heart of the city. The fascinating, sculpture-like architecture mirrors the fluid lines of the lake and lush parkland, creating the perfect balance between nature and urbanity. Designed as an ultimate urban escape, THE FONTENAY epitomizes pure lakeside luxury while offering a contemporary and cosmopolitan way of life.

Fontenay 10 | D-20354 Hamburg | Germany Tel: +49 (0)40 605 6 605-0 | info@thefontenay.com | www.thefontenay.com

newsflash news

G L O B A L F E S T I VA L S A N D C U L T U R A L EVENTS IN THE COMING MONTHS

CUMBR E TAJÍN EVERY MARCH, in the central Mexican state of Veracruz close to the ancient pre-Hispanic ruins of El Tajín, once the ancient capital of the Totonac Indians, the vibrant and colourful festival of Cumbre Tajín brings to life this historic part of Latin America while preserving and promoting the heritage of the Totonac people. With the Totonaca culture pivotal to the festival, the commitment of Cumbre Tajín is to promote and preserve the indigenous traditions that have made Mexico such a unique destination for travellers. A veritable cultural celebration, this magnificent event seduces visitors with its primal traditions, national and international music, plus a range of immersive, family-friendly activities featuring everything from ancient customs to regional dancing, gastronomy, puppet shows, healing arts and many forms of artistic expression. In addition, traditional Papantla acrobats spin in the air from tall poles held by thick ropes tied to their ankles (pictured). 13-15 March 2020 ➤ www.facebook.com/pg/cumbretajin2020

HO L I THIS ANCIENT HINDU RITUAL, to mark the beginning of spring, is essentially a two-day celebration of the triumph of good over evil.

Otherwise known as the “Festival of Colours” due to the bright powder participants throw at each other, the proceedings begin with the lighting of Holika bonfires, symbolising how the God Vishnu helped burn the devil Holika, according to Hindu scriptures. The next day, Rangwali Holi is when people

14

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

delight in covering their neighbours in water and a rainbow of gulal, or paint powder apparently Lord Krishna, a reincarnation of Lord Vishnu, liked to prank village girls in this fashion. While Holi is observed throughout the world, the best places to see the festival are India and Nepal, especially Delhi, Varanasi, Vrindavan and Jaipur. One note: women should avoid walking about alone during Holi, since some men take it as an opportunity to get a little too friendly!

9-10 March 2020 ➤ www.goindia.about.com

F1 AUSTR ALIAN GR AN D PR IX

VIVE L ATI N O STARTED BY OCESA more than twenty years ago, Vive Latino is a massive, annual 2-day rock and Latin American music festival, held every spring in Mexico City’s Foro Sol (Sun Forum). Built in 1993 as a sports and concert venue inside the vast Autodromo Hermanos Rodriguez complex in eastern Mexico City, Foro Sol is the second largest concert venue in the country. Upwards of 80,000 music lovers pack it each day of Vive Latino, endlessly moving, clapping, singing and rocking to the beats a huge line-up of acts playing a variety of musical genres, many of which are outside the mainstream. Think Latina rappers and you will get the gist! Yet, while Vive Latino primarily pays homage to Latin American musicians, bands and singers, the festival is also open to international artists, and so American hard rock band Guns N’ Roses and Swedish rock band The Cardigans will be making special appearances this year.

14-15 March 2020 ➤ www.vivelatino.com.mx

THE SECOND OLDEST surviving motor race in Australia (after the Alpine Rally), the F1 Rolex Australian Grand Prix is also the first opportunity of the season for fans to catch a glimpse of new supercars on Melbourne’s famous Albert Park Grand Prix Circuit. Albert Park is the perfect setting to begin a new season of Formula 1 and an exhilarating circuit for drivers and spectators alike, since it boasts a thrilling combination of fast straights and demanding slow speed turns with multiple overtaking opportunities. When the practice laps begin on 13 March 2020, Lewis Hamilton will start his world championship defence with the likes of Sebastian Vettel (for Ferrari) and Max Verstappen (for Red Bull Racing) on his tail. Meanwhile, Canadian rookie Nicholas Latifi will be vying for a podium spot, in his hotly anticipated first race for Williams.

15 March 2020 ➤ www.australia-grand-prix.com/en

ST. PATR ICK ’S DAY HELD TO COMMEMORATE Ireland’s patron saint and the arrival of Christianity, St. Patrick’s Day has been an official Christian feast day since the early 17th century. Legend has it that the association with shamrocks and the “wearing of the green” hark back to Saint Patrick’s use of the three-leaved plant to explain the Holy Trinity to the pagan Irish. Celebrated in more countries than any other national festival, today St. Patrick’s Day is a tribute to the far-reaching influence of the Emerald Isle’s expatriate population. However, there’s nothing like experiencing 17 March in Ireland itself, where the public holiday is the climax of a long party. The official festival – established by the Irish government 25 years ago – includes four days of street parades, concerts, céilithe (traditional music sessions), theatre performances and fireworks. While the best place to be immersed in the revelry is undoubtedly Dublin, cities, towns and villages throughout Ireland hold their own parades and festivals.

17 March 2020 ➤ www.stpatricksfestival.ie

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

15

L A S FA LL A S

➸

BELIEVED TO HAVE ORIGINATED in a pagan celebration of the spring equinox, today, giant wood and papier-mâché sculptures are the centre of attention at this exuberant fiesta, held annually in the Spanish port city of València. ➤ 15-19 March 2020

16

ISSUE 2 9 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

NEWSFLASH

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

17

COACH ELLA CALIFORNIA’S GLOSSY, GLAM, dry and heated answer to the wet and mud of Glastonbury, held at the Empire Polo Club in the Colorado Desert over two consecutive weekends, Coachella is the first major international music event in the annual festival calendar.

Essentially a massive, well-organised cultural playground, hosting up to 100,000 people at any one time, Coachella is attended by sweaty fashionistas, designer hippies and musical trendsetters. Known for its show-stopping all-star line-up and

CA PE TOW N JA Z Z FES T I VA L NOW IN ITS TWENTY-FIRST YEAR, the Mother City’s annual award-winning celebration of jazz will once again take over the Cape Town International Convention Centre for two full days and nights, featuring every type of live performer, from global legends and festival newcomers to musical storytellers and up-tempo high-energy acts for younger attendees. More than forty local and international artists will perform on five stages, including South Africa’s most distinguished pianist Abdullah Ibrahim; phenomenal Grammy Award-winning English multi-instrumentalist singer, arranger, composer and producer Jacob Collier, and Dutch saxophonist Candy Dulfer who will be joined on stage by South African jazz legend Jonathan Butler. Just one of the 2020 Cape Town Jazz Festival’s headliners will be Grammy Award- and Dove Award-winning PJ Morton (pictured), who has collaborated with the likes of Maroon 5, Stevie Wonder, Solange and Erykah Badu and is now a highly acclaimed solo artist. 27-28 March 2020 ➤ www.capetownjazzfest.com

18

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

breathtaking large-scale art installations, the 2020 roll call for this veritable global gathering is no exception, and is led by American rock band Rage Against the Machine, reuniting after an eight-year hiatus to perform on Coachella’s main stage on both weekends. Superstar DJ Calvin Harris, celebrated singer-songwriter Lana Del Ray, American rapper Travis Scott and singersongwriter Frank Scott will also headline Coachella 2020. Other notable acts include Disclosure, 21 Savage, Lil Uzi Vert, Daniel Caesar, Rex Orange County and BIGBANG. 10-12 + 17-19 April 2020 ➤ www.coachella.com

NEWSFLASH

SONGKRAN The hottest month of the year in Thailand sees the entire country go bananas in friendly water fights and street parties that last nearly a week! Derived from the Sanskrit word san- krānti and also known as Thai New Year or the Thailand Water Festival, Songkran was originally a way for Thai people to sprinkle water on their family members and elders to bring good fortune, as well as pay their respects to images of their beloved Buddha. Today, the festival has transitioned into three days of fun-filled water fights and non-stop revelry in the scorching heat, soaking locals and visitors alike in the teeming streets with buckets of water, hoses and super-soakers. Previously held on dates that were dependent upon the Thai lunar calendar, whilst Songkran is now commemorated on the same days every year, the sopping wet celebrations typically begin before and end many days after the official holiday!

13-15 April 2020 ➤ www.songkranday.com

S N OWBOMBIN G TOWARDS THE END OF the traditional annual ski season, the world’s biggest festival in the snow kicks off in the Austrian resort of Mayrhofen for a week.

Frequently referred to as the Glastonbury of mountain gatherings, days are spent skiing, boarding, enjoying music in mountain-top locales, feasting on vast spreads and relaxing in luxury hotel saunas plus over 100 spas and pools. Nights deliver a completely different experience, with cutting-edge performances happening in a host

of unique alpine venues, from pools and sky-high igloos to enchanted forest clearings and mountain stage sets, and Austria’s largest fancy dress street party. This year’s festivities feature dozens of the biggest acts in the business, headlined by live performances courtesy of Liam Gallagher and The Streets, plus a rocking DJ line-up topped by English electronic music duo Chase & Status - one of the world’s most commercially successful acts associated with drum ‘n’ bass and dubstep.

13-18 April 2020 ➤ www.snowbombing.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

19

D U BA I W O RL D C U P

➸

HELD AT MEYDAN RACECOURSE and attracting the cream of Dubai society, the Gulf’s leading equestrian event is as much about being seen as it is a tribute to the beauty of Arabian horses, culminating in reputedly the world’s richest race – the USD 12 million Dubai World Cup sponsored by Emirates on 28 March 2020.

20

ISSUE 2 9 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

NEWSFLASH

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

21

D AN CE OPEN

BO H A G B I H U SITUATED SOUTH OF THE EASTERN HIMALAYAS along the Brahmaputra and Barak River valleys, Assam is bounded to the north by the kingdom of Bhutan and the state of Arunachal Pradesh, to the east by the states of Nagaland and Manipur, to the south by the states of Mizoram and Tripura and to the west by Bangladesh and the states of Meghalaya and West Bengal. Famed for its tea plantations, rich wildlife, national parks and plethora of archaeological sites, three times a year Assam celebrates important non-religious Bihu festivals, the first of which – Bohag Bihu – is the most important. On the first day of the Hindu solar calendar, marking the Assamese New Year, Bohag Bihu celebrates the arrival of spring weather and is essentially a rice sowing festival to honour the fertility goddess Krishna, cattle and elders. Feasting, dancing, musical performances and other events feature, while children don flower-garlands and walk the streets welcoming the new year.

14-20 April 2020 ➤ www.assaminfo.com

22

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT events in the international ballet calendar, lovers of the dance genre from all over the world are drawn annually to St. Petersburg by a series of pristine shows, master classes and the much-coveted Dance Open Awards. Festival shows are performed in the historic Alexandrinsky Theatre, considered the birthplace of the Russian ballet more than 250 years ago, whilst the awards celebrate the greatest personal achievements of ballet soloists, including their technique and artistry, regardless of styles, genres and performance trends. For the XVIX season of the festival, a number of esteemed ballet companies and independent dancers from all over the world will come together to perform in Russia’s secondlargest city, and the program includes premieres, choreographic experiments and unusual scenographic presentations. The closing night “Stars Gala” on 27 April – comprising various styles including classical and modern – promises to be a supremely memorable night for ballet aficionados.

14-27 April 2020 ➤ www.danceopen.com/en

SAN TA CLARITA COWBOY FESTIVAL SOMEWHAT SYMBOLIC OF American West culture and dating back more than two centuries, cowboys are synonymous with Texas and the state of California. Even today, from South Texas’ mesquite trees to the Panhandle’s open prairies, there are cowboys hard at work. Every year, about thirty minutes north of Los Angeles, the city of Santa Clarita is home to one of the world’s biggest cowboy gatherings which celebrates the state’s western heritage. This action-packed cowboy festival routinely attracts more than 10,000 attendees annually for its live music, authentic western activities, trick ropers, gun spinners, magicians and more, as well as living history exhibits and fine Western gear. The region’s Dutch oven peach cobbler is reputedly so tasty that it’s earned a reputation of its own! This year, five stages of cowboy, folk and bluegrass will provide the musical backdrop for gold panning, a four-meat ‘cowboy cook-off’, archery, hatchet throwing and general cowboy carousing.

18-19 April 2020 ➤ www.cowboyfestival.org

NEWSFLASH

R HEI N I N F L A M E S EVERY YEAR, the picturesque River Rhine in Germany essentially goes up in flames. But there’s nothing to worry about, since the flames are caused by dramatic and elaborate firework shows, in five locations along the Rhein, which illuminate the river during this multi-faceted event. The result is nothing short of spectacular. Rhein In Flammen kicks-off with the Bonn extravaganza on the first Saturday of May. Held at Rheinauen Park, thousands of red, fluorescent Bengal

fires light the way downstream, for a fleet of more than 70 decorated and illuminated ships along a 26km stretch - the longest stretch of any Rhine in Flames spectacle.

There are plenty of places to watch the fireworks along Bonn’s promenade, while many board ships to see the displays from the water and feel more immersed in the incredible pageant. Meanwhile, on the river’s banks, wine festivals attract thousands of visitors and keep them merry late into the night. 2 May 2020 (Bonn) ➤ www.rhein-in-flammen.com

BR IGH TON FESTIVAL TAKING PLACE IN VENUES both familiar and unusual across the bohemian, British south coast city, Brighton Festival is an annual celebration of music, theatre, dance, circus, art, film, literature, outdoor and family events. A veritable creative cornucopia of world-class art and entertainment happenings – including debates, musical concerts and theatrical performances – many of the festival’s events are specially commissioned and have their first public airings during these three weeks every May. Previous guest directors of this London-By-The-Sea, critically acclaimed mixed arts fest, have included Vanessa Redgrave (2012) and acclaimed visual artist and cartoonist David Shrigley (2018). This year, BAFTA nominated award-winning writer, best-selling author, prolific speaker and acclaimed poet Lemn Sissay will be the twelfth guest director of Brighton Festival. A passionate and powerful voice whose performances are humbling and exhilarating, Sissay is Chancellor of Manchester University and was awarded an MBE for services to literature in 2010.

2-24 May 2020 ➤ www.brightonfestival.org

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

23

NA G H O L L A ND D I V I NG

➸

NOT FOR THE FAINT HEARTED, this ancient annual ritual on Pentecost Island, sees brave men and boys of the Sa tribe hurtle towards the ground head-first from wooden towers, with nothing more than tree vines tied around their ankles and no safety equipment. ➤ Saturdays April–June 2020

24

ISSUE 2 9 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

NEWSFLASH

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

25

CI NCO D E M AY O IN MID-20TH CENTURY AMERICA, the celebration of Cinco de Mayo became, amongst Mexican immigrants, a way of boosting pride in their heritage, not to mention an excuse to eat Mexican food and drink tequila all day! But in Mexico the holiday is celebrated a little bit differently: since Cinco de Mayo actually commemorates a military victory (when, despite being vastly outnumbered by the French, the Mexican army was triumphant on 5 May 1862), the day is celebrated in the state of Puebla with parades, speeches, mouthwatering meals and historical re-enactments of the famed 1862 battle. In Puebla, visitors experience an authentic, vibrant and colourful celebration, featuring art spectacles, costumed paraders, Mexican dancers, mariachi bands, parties and dancing filling the streets. Be sure to sample mole poblano, the most traditional Cinco de Mayo dish. It’s a thick sauce made with green chillies (among many other ingredients) that is usually served over turkey or chicken.

5 May 2020 ➤ www.matadornetwork.com

26

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

GIR ON A FLOWER FESTIVAL THE HISTORIC SPANISH CITY of Girona – located in the country’s northeastern Catalonia region, beside the River Onyar – is best known for its medieval architecture, walled Old Quarter and the Roman remains of Força Vella fortress. But, for ten days every year, Girona’s buildings, courtyards, monuments and gardens are adorned with more than one hundred spectacular floral displays and arrangements, staged alongside a programme of traditional Spanish events and culinary happenings. Whole streets

become art installations accompanied by music, light, fountains and the intoxicating scent of thousands of flowers. Girona’s town hall always comes up with a well-constructed and somewhat dignified display, that befits its status and its central location on the Plaça del Vi, the city’s bustling square.

Throughout Girona during the festival, the wonderful ensembles of striking colours and penetrating aromas that accompany the cultural heritage of this beautiful Catalan city, make this part of Europe a must visit spring destination. 9-17 May 2020 ➤ www.gironatempsdeflors.cat

NEWSFLASH

HAY FE S T I VA L FOR TEN DAYS ANNUALLY at the end of May, when the playful British weather is most likely to be bright and sunny, thousands of literary buffs, young and old alike, descend upon Hay-on-Wye, in Wales’ beautiful Brecon Beacons National Park, to essentially sit and read books. The now world-famous Hay Festival celebrates great writing from poets and scientists, lyricists and comedians, novelists and environmentalists – not to mention the power of great ideas to

transform peoples’ way of thinking – and gives everyone from children to professors the opportunity to enjoy the energy of the written word. One of this year’s highlights is a small, versatile troupe of actors from London’s Shakespeare’s Globe, presenting a trio of plays – A Midsummer Night’s Dream, As You Like It and The Tempest – performed as they would have been staged in the 17th century, with the actors taking on multiple roles on a stripped back set. 21-31 May 2020 ➤ www.hayfestival.com/wales

BEIR UT BOAT FAST-PACED, fashionconscious and overwhelmingly friendly, the Lebanese capital is the quintessential East-meets-West experience and wholeheartedly lives up to its moniker of “the Paris of the Middle East”, so-called thanks to its French influences and vibrant cultural and intellectual lifestyle. The city’s pulsating art, food and nightlife rival anything New York, Paris or London have to offer and once a year, over the course of five days, Beirut’s boat show blends supreme luxury with exhilarating escapades. Not only is Beirut Boat an opportunity to see some of the world’s most extravagant super yachts and talk all things nautical with luxury yachting companies and brokerage houses, but it also gives visitors an opportunity to be immersed in couture fashion, exquisite jewellery and rare supercars. And, as one would expect of the party capital of the Arab world, the vast array of pleasure craft on show is complemented by a host of live music events and exclusive parties.

27-31 May 2020 ➤ www.beirutboat.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

27

28

ISSUE 2 9 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

NEWSFLASH

TH R I S S UR POORAM FESTIVAL

➸

A ROW OF GENTLE GIANTS – decorated with gleaming golden headdresses, ornamental bells, palm leaves, peacock feathers and beautiful intricate paintings – line-up in readiness to parade at this colourful Indian festival that delights the senses by the stunning visual feast of it all. ➤ 3 May 2020

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

29

➤ PHANG NGA ➤ EHIME ➤ MUMBAI ➤ THE MALDIVES ➤ S K E L E T O N C O A S T ➤ G A L L E F O RT ➤ L A N G K AW I ➤ PA N A M A ➤ BA LI ➤ LUA NG PR A BA NG ➤ SINGA PORE ➤ LON DON

rest your THE SAROJIN

➸

ITS LONG BEACHES, warm waters and legendary hospitality have long established Phuket as one of Thailand’s most popular destinations, but the effects of decades of unabated development are showing. Yet, just an hour north of Phuket, lies the equally beautiful but much more genteel Khao Lak coastline.

Here, the white powder sands are surrounded by lush vegetation, a mountainous interior slopes gently towards the sea and not one, but five national parks filled with forests, waterfalls and hidden Buddhist shrines ensconce the area. This abundant and pristine setting is undoubtedly the root of Khao Lak’s soulful and laidback vibe.

In the midst of this tropical tapestry of beach and nature lies The Sarojin, an independently owned luxury resort, whose privileged location is matched by excellent service and top-notch facilities.

A low-rise property that blends seamlessly with its exotic garden surroundings, for some, direct access to an 11-kilometre white sand beach is the star of the show (pictured), while for others it is merely the icing on the most delicious of cakes.

A geometrically designed lake-sized lotus pond, filled with pink and

30

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

purple flowers, acts as the Sarojin’s central courtyard and main focal point around which many of its handsome but discreetly integrated buildings are situated.

56 luxurious guest residences – almost half of which have their own private plunge pool or jacuzzi – are housed within 7 two-storey buildings that dot the perimeter of The Sarojin’s verdant grounds.

Privacy and a zen-like calm are palpable throughout. ‘Pathways’, The Sarojin’s stunning spa, is cut out of a coconut palm and pine tree forest, to a soundtrack of the Andaman Sea in the near distance.

Beyond an ocean-like swimming pool, past a screen of dense foliage, lies the hotel’s beach bar, ‘Edge’, which strikes the perfect balance between casual and chic with a healthy dash of wow.

Above all else, it is a deep commitment to the guest experience that sets The Sarojin apart. Guests are treated like revered family members. The attention to detail is second to none, and every member of staff is dedicated to making guests’ stays memorable.

Above all else, to stay at The Sarojin is essentially to be utterly spoiled. ALEX BENASULI ➤ www.sarojin.com

PHANG NGA ➤ THAILAND

head

OUR SEASONAL R O U N D - U P O F W H AT ’ S N E W, HOT AND HAPPENING IN THE HOTEL WORLD

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

31

E H I M E ➤ J A PA N

OZ U C A ST L E

➸

TUCKED JUST BELOW THE MAINLAND of Honshu and encircled by a 1,200 kilometre, 88 temple Buddhist pilgrimage route (henro), which honours the 9th century monk Kukai, Shikoku may be the smallest of Japan’s four major islands but is brimming with natural beauty, which makes it worthy of a detour from the well-worn tourist trails of Tokyo and Kyoto.

Located in north-western Shikoku – facing the Inland Sea to the north and the Bungo Strait to the west – mountainous Ehime Prefecture is best known for Dogo Onsen, one of Japan’s earliest known hot-spring spas, and its castle, Ozu. First built in 1331 on a bluff overlooking Hijikawa River, while Ozu Castle has been repaired and reconstructed a number of times over the centuries, its most recent restoration was carefully executed using traditional materials, local timber and

32

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

time-honoured methods.

The Kato clan held Ozu from 1617 until the beginning of the Meiji period, when the castle was abandoned. In 1888, the keep was torn down, but the castle’s four original turrets (yagura) were spared and form part of the current structure today.

Recently, the Japanese government took the unusual step of opening Ozu to members of the public for overnight stays.

The first castle in Japan to offer such stays, Ozu is available to guests for just 30 nights this year, when its meticulously restored four-storey tenshu (central tower) is equipped with mats and furniture for up to six people to stay over. Overnight guests also have access to the castle’s turrets.

For an overnight stay with a difference, what could be more special and yet regal, than resting one’s head in one of Japan’s most historic castles? ➤ www.ozucastle.com/en

MUMBAI ➤ INDIA

SOHO HOUSE MUMBAI

➸

OCCUPYING A RATHER BEAUTIFUL ten-storey building in beachside Juhu neighbourhood that was originally built as apartments, Soho House’s twenty-third outpost overlooks the Arabian Sea on one side and the madness of Mumbai on the other and is just 15 minutes from the city’s airport, traffic permitting.

Incredibly popular with locals - who can be observed strutting up and down its length every day, from morning ’til night - Juhu is undoubtedly Mumbai’s best beachfront location and has changed beyond recognition in recent years, thanks in large part to a concerted clean-up effort and regular maintenance, which renders the broad stretch of compact sand clean and routinely thronged with sunbathers. The sight of the setting sun from Soho House’s rooftop pool, in such close proximity to constant urban chaos, makes sipping sundowners even more appropriate.

One floor down from the top is an intimate book-lined library with plenty of deep armchairs to cosy up with a tome, and below it is where the main restaurant-lounge-bar is located. Every corner is bedecked with polished teak furniture, woven cane, divine hand-printed Rajasthani fabrics, cement tiles, vintage mirrors and lampshades covered with antique saris. An ample dusting of artworks by the likes of Bharti Kher and Subodh Gupta completes Linda Boronkay’s playful interior design scheme, much of which was very admirably locally sourced.

Guests staying in one of the house’s 38 bedrooms - which are decorated in a retro English country manor vibe - temporarily benefit from all of the club’s in-house facilities (whether they are members or not), including a choice of four eateries, a screening room, gym, steam rooms and of course the rooftop pool area, which is destination central every weekend for Mumbai’s young, glam and upwardly mobile and so makes for simply wonderful people watching.

➤ www.sohohousemumbai.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

33

THE MALDIVES

J OA LI

➸

THE REGION’S FIRST IMMERSIVE ART RESORT, when JOALI opened in the Maldives just over a year ago, it unbelievably managed to offer a new visual hospitality experience that had hitherto been unparalleled in the country, which is saying something for a nation which is not short of exquisite accommodations and OTT resorts, some even offering transfers by submarine and underwater restaurants.

Set on 24-acre Muravandhoo, just 45 minutes by seaplane from Malé, it cost close to USD 100 million to transform this deserted island in the middle of Raa Atoll into sleek, first-class JOALI, boasting 24 beach villas and 49 over-water villas all executed with a great amount of panache and style. Every villa is enormous and guests want for nothing, exquisite food and deluxe amenities being only the tip of the iceberg.

Throughout the sprawling resort, internationally acclaimed Autoban design studio and Tokyo-based architects Studio Glitt have expertly married traditional Maldivian character and craftsmanship with contemporary art and 21st century technology, resulting in beautifully curated accommodations which provide an exceptional stay experience.

Design details abound in both the overwater and beach villas.

Private swimming pools are amply sized to actually swim in rather than just “plunge”, bathrooms are lined with Verde Lapponia marble from Norway bestowing them with a natural serene feel, and JOALI’s rooftops were thatched with palm fronds by a Maldivian workforce.

Scattered across the island are several works by artists from around the world, including an underwater sculpture by Misha Kahn, which raises awareness about the issues surrounding coral bleaching, and three pieces by Porky Hefer, including one that hangs amongst the palm trees masquerading as an experiential dining venue. Speaking of which, there are four world-class restaurants at JOALI to choose from, to ensure that even the most discerning of gourmands is suitably satiated.

Smart and super-luxe yet warm and unpretentious, JOALI is the best of every resort the Maldives has to offer rolled into one slick and inviting package. ➤ www.joali.com

34

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

S K E L ET ON C OA ST ➤ NA M I BI A

SHIPWRECK LODG E

➸

A 40 KILOMETRE-WIDE and 500-kilometre-long stretch in the northern part of Namibia’s Atlantic coast, the virtually uninhabited and thoroughly untamed Skeleton Coast is a hostile but intensely fascinating place. Stretching between the old German colonial town of Swakopmund and the Swakop River to the south, at the Angolan border, the seaboard takes its name from the countless animal bones littered across its endless sands and the skeletons of hundreds of ships scattered along the coast, from wooden Portuguese galleons wrecked centuries ago to modern steel-hulled vessels which became stranded more recently.

Today, lions, hyenas and other predators wander the shore in search of maritime meals and elephants are sometimes seen wading

36

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

into the waves. Meanwhile, almost a dozen species of shark lurk in the waters just off the coast.

Shipwreck Lodge offers adventurous travellers a unique opportunity to stay amidst this wilderness in relative comfort, in one of 11 imaginatively designed cabins, dotted among the dunes on the remote shores of the Skeleton Coast National Park, 45 kilometres north of Mowe Bay. The perfect base from which to surf the lengthy breaks and enormous barrels, bash virgin dunes or embark on a 4x4 safari, Shipwreck Lodge is equally ideal for a break of simple solitude, beach-combing a place where yours are the only footsteps in the sand and revelling in the mesmerising views of South Atlantic waves barrelling towards the shore. ➤ www.shipwrecklodge.com.na

GA L L E F ORT ➤ SR I L A N K A

AMANGALLA

➸

TROPICAL COLONIAL SPLENDOUR and service standards fit for royalty await guests at Amangalla, the centrepiece of charming UNESCO protected Galle Fort, on the southwestern tip of the Indian Ocean island of Sri Lanka.

From the 1500s through to Sri Lanka gaining its independence in 1948, Galle flipped from the Portuguese to the Dutch and then British, as not only the country’s most important commercial centre but also as one of the key outposts in the Indian Ocean trade and shipping network.

With parts of the building dating back to 1684, Amangalla oozes history and handsome period features from every pore.

Wide, plank teak floors, soaring beamed ceilings, original stone-work and ceramic detailing have survived centuries and never looked so good.

Vintage style ceiling fans, rattan armchairs and historic prints depicting

Sri Lankan daily life of a bygone era gracefully come together in a South Asian colonial interior design aesthetic at its best, which forms the perfect backdrop to afternoon tea and pre- and post-dinner gin and tonics.

Lush botanicals and hidden garden nooks filled with exotic plants and flowering trees soften the colonial architecture. The smell of frangipani blossoms waft through the indoor and outdoor spaces, making meandering through the interconnected verandas and courtyards an exotic delight.

The tastefully integrated new section of the property centres around a dropdead-gorgeous pond-like swimming pool lined with celadon green ceramic tiles, surrounded by cabanas and creeping ficuscovered walls.

Specialising in Ayurvedic offerings but with western and far eastern treatments on the menu, the hotel’s serene spa is also home to a series of wet and dry rooms complete with a jacuzzi and separate cold plunge pool.

As is always the case at an Aman property, the service at Amangalla is beyond exemplary. Special requests are not only expected but anticipated. Butlers assigned to guests at check-in are at their beck and call for the duration of their stay.

With only 31 rooms and suites, Amangalla feels more like a private stately home than a hotel, so visitors are not merely guests but also the temporary lord and lady of the manor.

Tradition and comfort combined with luxe lodgings, genuine Sri Lankan warmth and Galle’s colonial heritage make every stay at Amangalla a memorable experience. ALEX BENASULI

➤ www.aman.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

37

L A N G K AW I ➤ M A L AY S I A

T H E D ATA I L A N G K AW I

➸

SITUATED ON THE NORTHWEST tip of the Malaysian island of Langkawi, nestled in the heart of an ancient rainforest overlooking tranquil Datai Bay, just steps away from the Andaman Sea, this iconic property was recently given a massive USD 60 million facelift to return it to its former, timeless tropicalchic glory.

When the much-celebrated architect Kerry Hill conceived and built The Datai on its 46-acre site in 1993, he designed it to blend in with its 10-million-year-old virgin rainforest surroundings, with rooms and suites set back from the untouched golden bay which it overlooks. Architect Didier Lefort (who assisted the late Kerry Hill) assumed aesthetic authority during the remodelling works, which lovingly freshened up the property’s interiors while retaining its original architectural DNA and unique spirit.

Flying lemurs, dusky leaf monkeys, great hornbills and hundreds of butterfly species call The Datai home, making

38

ISSUE 2 9 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

the hotel a special place for nature lovers. An onsite ‘Nature Centre’, complete with mini laboratories, even allows families to learn about ecology, while naturalists lead rainforest treks, and tours provide insights into The Datai’s serious commitment to sustainability.

While the hotel’s lodgings defer to its spectacular surroundings, deftly allowing the rainforest to shine as the star attraction (which was the beauty of Hill’s original design), The Datai’s 121 rooms, suites and villas are luxurious, spacious and understated domains of calm for guests to enjoy the jungle sounds. Ceilings soar, oversized four-posters are draped in white muslin and balconies are overlooked only by the hotel’s primate inhabitants.

Beyond the refreshed accommodations, one of Lefort’s new additions is the sprawling five-bedroom ‘Datai Estate’ which, complete with a games room, huge pool and private gardens, is of the largest hotel villas on the continent. ➤ www.thedatai.com

Feast your eyes on unrivalled views of majestic sunsets over the Indian Ocean whilst enjoying a cuppa on the iconic Chequerboard “For a Spot of Ceylon Tea at the Source� - 1000 Places to See Before You Die

2, Galle Road, Colombo 03, Sri Lanka T. (+94) 112 541 010 E. information@gallefacehotel.net www.gallefacehotel.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

39

40

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

PA N A M A

ISLAS SECAS

➸

OWNED BY BILLIONAIRE Wall Street macrotrading legend and conservationist Louis Bacon, who helms a charitable foundation that works to preserve and protect natural resources for future generations, Islas Secas is a luxury eco-resort set on a private 14-island archipelago in the Gulf of Chiriquí, on the Pacific coast of Panama, 20 nautical miles from the mainland.

Close to Coiba National Park, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site, the waters around Islas Secas are visited twice yearly by two different populations of migrating humpback whales, and teem year-round with giant manta and eagle rays, sea turtles, sharks and tropical fish in a kaleidoscope of colours, making them perfect for a marine safari.

Sleeping up to a maximum of 18 guests, in nine smart yet unpretentious ‘Casitas’ arranged around four sites on one of the islands, this incredible destination takes ultra-exclusive to another level and offers a privileged, up-close-and-personal glimpse into an incredible, untamed natural world that has miraculously been unharmed by humankind.

In line with the project’s conservation goals, every element of the resort’s main lodge and guest accommodations is low-impact, all water is recycled and the property is 100% powered by solar-generated energy.

The breezy, thoughtfully designed Casitas have one, two or four bedrooms. All are surrounded by tropical forest and boast a private plunge pool and spectacular ocean views. A lodge houses a bar and lounge, a cozy games room, small library and ‘Terazza’ restaurant which serves classic, fresh, simple and healthy fare.

Rates start at USD 2,000 per night but include escorted road and boat transfers from the city of David on the mainland, all meals, all beverages (except premium spirits), daily yoga classes, all guided activities on the property, scuba diving and snorkelling trips within the archipelago, daily laundry and even a day on your own private island.

For a rare combination of total privacy, understated luxury, real adventure and exquisite untouched natural surroundings that are unlikely to ever change, a visit to Islas Secas must surely be the tropical island getaway of a lifetime. ➤ www.islassecas.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

41

BALI ➤ INDONESIA

CAPELLA UBUD

➸

THE BRAINCHILD OF famed Bangkok-based luxury hotel designer and landscape architect Bill Bensley, who has a penchant for the playful which he has executed to great aplomb in numerous properties around the world, tented Capella Ubud retreat quite literally wows at early turn.

A cross between an uber-luxe glamping resort and a tented safari camp, flamboyant Bensley managed to convince the site’s owner, businessman Suwito Gunawan, to forgo the original 120-room hotel for an intimate premium tented property that would preserve the rainforest exactly. The result is a unique property that gently coexist within its Keliki Valley setting, which is itself a beautiful patchwork of stone homes, authentic shrines and green rice paddies, 25 minutes north of Ubud. Indeed, no trees were cut down for the camp’s creation and many appear as part of its construction. In some cases, what looks like structural timber is actually a living tree trunk.

Capella Ubud comprises 22 one-bedroom tented retreats and a single two-bedroom lodge, which are either tucked within the rainforest or hanging over sacred River Wos. Each is accessed via a theatrical (and bouncy) suspension bridge leading to a large private deck inset with a salt-water plunge pool.

The teak-floored fairytale-like interiors are laden with fascinating

42

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

objets d’arts, giant four-posters, statement pieces of furniture and an array of whimsical touches. The overall effect is colourful, enchanting and dramatic, all at the same time. What it is not is quiet or restrained, but Bensley is not known for the pared-down look! On the contrary, to stay at a Bensley-designed properly where he has been “let loose” at full throttle – as he has been here – is to experience an adventure-like stay, of dreamy proportions. And any stay at Capella Ubud must surely be an adventure. ➤ www.-capellahotels.com/en

Memories create a journey you can always return to.

Escape to a luxury beach retreat minutes from the city center, wake up to the views of one of the world's most magnificent mosques and pamper yourself at our Bedouin-style spa with a traditional Moroccan hammam.

For reservations, call +971 2 818 8181 or visit ritzcarlton.com/abudhabi.

Advanced reservations are required.

LUA NG P R A B A NG ➤ L AO S

R O S E WO O D LUA N G P R A BA N G

➸

THE FORMER CAPITAL OF LAOS and now a UNESCO World Heritage site, many have commented that Luang Prabang is by far the most charming city in Southeast Asia. Set beneath a temple-topped hill at the confluence of two rivers that almost surround the city – the Mekong and the Khan – Luang Prabang is a wonderfully charming patchwork of traditional Lao wooden houses and hints of European architecture – a constant reminder of a time when Laos was part of the French colony of Indochine. Goldenroofed wats, decorated with mosaics and murals of the life of Buddha, sit under the gaze of wraparound teak balconies and 19th century shuttered windows. Indo-Chinese French villas sit cheek-to-cheek with dragon-ornamented temples. Gongs call monks to prayer. Pleasures are low-key in this lovely, ancient royal city, and long may it remain this way. Luang Prabang is genuinely like nowhere else on earth.

Set on the outskirts of Luang Prabang, heavenly hospitality hideaway Rosewood Luang Prabang offers romantic accommodation which is perfectly in sync with its lush green valley location, with a

44

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

river running through it.

Imagined by hospitality wizard Bill Bensley to be a Laotian hill station, welcoming intrepid adventurers to its remote corner of Southeast Asia, each of the hotel’s two dozen guest rooms and suites is dedicated to a traveller from the early 20th century who, in Bensley’s vivid imagination, may have stayed on the property.

In true Bensley colonial-chic style, rooms are bedecked in all manner of one-off antiques, bespoke pieces, covetable objets d’arts, decorative suitcases, silk lanterns and the like.

It wouldn’t be a Bensley-designed property without a safari-style tent and, true to form, Rosewood Luang Prabang has half a dozen ‘Hilltop Tents’, perched within the jungle canopy, sporting zip-up walls, open-plan bathrooms and balconies with spectacular mountain and valley vistas. There may not be a better place in all of Laos to appreciate the country’s natural charms, and retire to after a day exploring its beautifully romantic former capital.

➤ www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/luang-prabang

SINGAPORE

SIX SENSES MA XWELL

➸

DRAWING INSPIRATION FROM ITS HISTORIC LOCATION and skilfully marrying deluxe modernity with old world glamour, Six Senses Maxwell is a beautifully appointed hotel which rewrites the typical template for a Singaporean five-star by offering luxury lodgings incorporating themes of relaxation and wellness to create an inspired urban oasis.

Housed within a whole block of three- and four-storey heritage shop houses in Singapore’s bustling Chinatown, and fashioned by internationally-acclaimed French architect and designer Jacques Garcia (the man behind Hotel Costes and La Mamounia), Six Senses Maxwell is positively brimming with European design flourishes.

And throughout the hotel, unique furnishings, opulent fabrics, dark hardwood floors, hand-woven silk rugs and numerous local touches

have been lovingly brought together to great effect in Garcia’s trademark flamboyant style, creating sumptuous interiors and an utterly serene place to rest one’s head in the hectic island city-state.

A variety of restaurants and bars provide enough culinary variety to satiate even the most seasoned gourmands, in a regal setting which feels more like a very exclusive private members’ club than a hotel.

Upstairs, 138 rooms and suites are bedecked in plush velvets, lush brocades, pleated silks, brass, lacquering and marble, and what they lack in space (especially in the lower room categories) they more than make-up for with good design, theatrical glamour and an abundance of decadent creature comforts.

➤ www.sixsenses.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

45

LONDON ➤ UNITED KINGDOM

THE D IXO N

➸

IN RECENT YEARS, there have been a slew of British “re-imaginings” of characterful, old buildings that were designed and built, some centuries ago, for a completely different purpose. Unfortunately, the outcomes of these developments run the gamut of dreadful, thoughtless conversions to truly impressive and lovingly executed reinterpretations. Staying in one of the former is generally a dreadfully disappointing experience, since they are usually staffed by an unhappy team working in a building everyone knows has been completely bastardised. At the other end of the scale are the thoughtfully conceptualised architectural triumphs, which impart something uniquely historic yet modern on visiting guests. I am happy to say that The Dixon is the latter, and is staffed by some of the most helpful and genuinely friendly people The Cultured Traveller has ever come across in a London hotel.

A truly great example of what can be achieved within the strict rules imposed by the British heritage authorities coupled with some imagination, The Dixon has skilfully retained many mementoes of the building’s previous life while providing stylish, 21st century accommodation and facilities.

Named after John Dixon Butler – the architect who designed the Grade II listed building in 1905 – The Dixon is owned and managed by the Dominus Group which is in turn owned by the Ahluwalia family. The architectural restoration was led by Consarc Design Group.

The Dixon’s interiors were fashioned by M Studio London and Twenty2degrees, which between them have successfully produced 193 tastefully appointed rooms and suites equipped with slick and spacious marble-lined bathrooms. Many rooms on the fifth and sixth floors boast tremendous views of Tower Bridge.

Restored original flooring and oak panelling dominate in the hotel’s grand, charismatic lobby, which is crowned by a huge glittering chandelier incorporates gold leaf handcuffs.

One of the two former court rooms is now the hotel’s Courtroom Bar, which has been carefully converted in such a way as to not lose too much of its original feel. Meanwhile, on-property Provisioners café and restaurant sits within the footprint of the building’s original holding cells, and serves wellprepared, unfussy fare all day, in a bright and airy environment, also providing quiet corners to work on a laptop.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU ➤

46

www.thedixon.co.uk

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

47

P R IZ E D R AW

➸ W I N A F OU R - N I GH T S TAY F OR T WO P E OP L E I N A LU X U RY RO OM AT SOFITEL MEXICO CITY REFORMA I N C L U D I N G D A I LY B R E A K FA S T S , P LUS ON E DI N N ER F OR T WO AT T H E H O T E L’ S C O N T E M P O R A RY M E X ICA N R E S TAU R A N T BA J E L W I T H W E L C OM E C O C KTA I L S.

LOCATED IN THE HEART OF THE MEXICAN CAPITAL on Paseo de la Reforma, which is considered by many to be one of world’s most iconic avenues, Sofitel Mexico City Reforma is the modern French luxury hospitality brand’s first property in Mexico.

At the base of the towering hotel, a restored heritage house has been skilfully incorporated in the modern design of the 40-storey building, creating a dramatic exterior that attractively juxtaposes contemporary and classic architecture. And the hotel’s enviable position – just steps away from the Angel of Independence and Chapultepec Castle – enables guests to experience chic French style while being submerged in the historic, vibrant and colourful culture that Mexico is famous for.

Being the tallest hotel in the Paseo de la Reforma corridor, guests of Sofitel Mexico City Reforma enjoy spectacular, sweeping views of Mexico’s capital from every one of its 275 guest rooms including 56 suites, all of which feature a wealth of deluxe touches including L’Occitane toiletries, pillow menus and automated curtains. The hotel also boasts a number of stylish bars and restaurants, each sporting its own unique culinary character. ➤ www.sofitel.accor.com

TO ENTER Email your contact details to ➤ win@theculturedtraveller.com The draw will take place after 1 June 2020 and the winner will be notified via email. This prize can be used any time before 31st December 2020 subject to availability when booking.

Blackout dates apply. This prize is not transferable to another person. The Cultured Traveller will not share your details with third parties. Multiple entries will be disqualified and completely excluded from this draw. All entrants will be added to The Cultured Traveller’s mailing list.

48

ISSUE 2 9 ➤ MA RCH – MAY 2020

WIN a four-night stay at the new sofitel mexico city reforma T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

49

F R O M E N C H A N T I N G M E D I E VA L L A N E WA Y S T O F U N K Y P O S T- I N D U S T R I A L D I S T R I C T S , D AW N G I B S O N E X P L O R E S T H E S W I S S C I T Y T H AT C O N S TA N T LY S U R P R I S E S ➤

Z A

50

Ü M

ISSUE 2 9 ➤ MA RCH – MAY 2020

O

M

R E

N

T

CIT Y FOCUS

I I

C N

T

H I

M

E

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

51

M

ILD EXERTION IS RICHLY rewarded when one emerges onto the Lindenhof, a hill-top park. It was here in 1747, that a 2nd century tombstone was unearthed, bearing the first-known mention of Turˉcum, the Roman name for Zürich.

While people have settled here for at least 6,000 years, it was the Romans who literally put Zürich on the map – first as a tax collection point and then with a castle on the site of Lindenhof.

Lindenhof is the perfect spot to get a sense of Zürich before exploring further, since this elegant park boasts one of the best panoramic views a European city has to offer: a chocolate box scene sweeping out across the River Limmat to its right bank, where handsome multi-hued townhouses jostle for prominence, overlooked by the impressive edifice of the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (ETH Zürich), where Einstein was both a student and professor. To the right is one of Zürich’s oldest churches, the Grossmünster, with its distinctive twin towers, while beyond, the Limmat meets the glittering blue expanse of Lake Zürich, overlooked by the eternal presence of the snowcapped Alps.

As boats glide by, bristling with smartphone-wielding sightseers, and locals linger over their lattés riverside, the bells ringing out from the fairy-tale green spire of the Gothic Predigerkirche are a melodic reminder of the passage of time, in this both ancient and up-to-the-minute metropolis. ➤

52

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

CITY FOCUS ZÜRICH

Left: Lindenhof; Above: Grossmünster

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

53

TI M E I S M O N E Y THE STEREOTYPES OF SWITZERLAND’S largest city – secretive banking haven for the rich and dubious; clean, green and pristine but eye-wateringly expensive; business and time obsessed – prove to be, like most clichés, only part of the story.

The luxury watch shops are ubiquitous and the role of banking in making Zürich one of the world’s financial powerhouses is undeniable. One only needs to take a stroll around downtown Paradeplatz, a former 17th century pig market which is now one of the most valuable chunks of real estate in the world, flanked by the Savoy Baur en Ville hotel and Switzerland’s two biggest banks. Step off the square into the grand marbled foyer of Credit Suisse’s headquarters and you can almost feel the wealth beneath your feet in the underground vaults, where an early draft of da Vinci’s Mona Lisa is rumoured to reside.

Directly across the road at 32 Bahnhofstrasse, is a less showy but equally important reminder of banking history.

Built in the 1920s in an Art Nouveau style, the former home of Zürich’s oldest private bank is a glorious ode to the beauty that money can buy, from its mosaiced floors to its exquisite glass-domed foyer. You can steal a moment or two to appreciate the architecture, by entering the door next to the Louis Vuitton boutique. Continue along Bahnhofstrasse to see the painstakingly curated windows of Prada, Burberry and the like, interspersed with luxury jewellery stores and fine chocolatiers promoting one of Switzerland’s most famous exports.

Credit Suisse headquarters

54

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

CITY FOCUS ZÜRICH

Paradeplatz

BEST FOOT FORWARD

32 Bahnhofstrasse

Rennweg

ONE OF ZÜRICH’S INTRINSIC ATTRACTIONS is how simple it is to get around on foot. The Limmat helpfully divides the old city into two sections, so, if you have a rough idea of the direction of the river, it’s hard to get lost, and many of the main attractions are less than 20 minutes’ walk from each other.

Zürich is truly a pedestrians’ delight and the physical evidence of the city’s heritage is discoverable around every corner, combining the opulent and beautiful with the subtle and hidden. For instance, close to historic Storchen hotel, ostentatious guild houses, as glorious as palaces, sit innocently alongside the remains of a Roman bathhouse in a non-descript covered laneway. If you’re a history or architecture buff, the locally guided downtown walking tour is very informative. ➤ www.freewalk.ch/zurich To leave the modern world behind, turn off the Bahnhofstrasse to Rennweg, Zürich’s broadest street during the Middle Ages, where you are immediately plunged back into a serene, slower scene, perfect for meaningless meandering.

Wander past the sinfully calorific displays of cream cakes in the windows of Honold’s tearooms, passing historic Widder hotel, then continue towards Augustinergasse.

This is the Zürich that your camera has been waiting for.

Once the home of medieval artisans, after the 17th century, Augustinergasse was transformed by the arrival of rich factory owners, who tried to outshine one another with their beautiful façades. The small cobbled lane bursts with colour, resplendent with buildings of tomato red, avocado green, rich cream and salmon pink, featuring a multitude of protruding bay windows and pale blue shutters. At street level, exclusive boutiques filled with desirable lust-haves range from designer glassware to finely decorated crockery and fashion accessories to gilded antiques. Each is an ode to the art of window dressing. ➤

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

55

56

ISSUE 2 9 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

CITY FOCUS ZÜRICH

AGE OLD CHARM, NEW AG E M I N D S E T WHILE STRICT BUILDING REGULATIONS have preserved the charming low-rise streetscapes of the old town, the former industrial area of Zürich-West (district 5) is becoming increasingly known for its cutting-edge art and design boutiques, experimental architecture, hip rooftop bars and dance clubs. Meanwhile, just south of Zürich-West, the redlight district of Langstrasse (district 4), once dominated by factory workers during the city’s industrialisation, is once again evolving due to a gradual process of gentrification. Today, gritty Langstrasse is known for its buzzing nightlife, lively pubs and fusion restaurants.

Old and new co-exist not only in Zürich’s districts, but also in ideas, architecture and culture. Renowned internationally for its pro-business outlook and as a hub of research and development, Zürich parties as hard as it works, with an everevolving bar scene of more than 600 venues to suit all tastes.

Whether you prefer an earthy traditional tavern, a trendsetting cocktail bar or a bespoke organic wine boutique, Zürich almost certainly has it.

One of the world’s largest and most colourful music festivals, Street Parade, explodes here every August, when lavishly decorated ‘Love Mobiles’ attract around one million revellers to party for a weekend. ➤ www.streetparade.com/en Of much more ancient origin is Sechseläuten, held every April. Dating back to the 16th century, the festivities begins with a parade of medieval guilds from Bahnhofstrasse to Sechseläutenplatz, where a snowman figure, called the Böögg, is burned as an effigy of winter. The Böögg’s head is packed with firecrackers, and tradition has it that, the faster the head explodes, the finer the upcoming summer will be. ➤

Zürich-West

Langstrasse

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

57

A CU LTU R A L F E A S T AS A LEADING WORLD CITY, Zürich punches above its weight when it comes to cultural attractions. Catering to just over 1.8 million people are more than 50 museums and 25 theatres, ranging from world class institutions to the downright quirky and eccentric. If you have time to visit just one, make it the Landesmuseum (Swiss National Museum) near the Hauptbahnhof.

Even if you are just passing by, the Landesmuseum will demand your attention. A magnificent, stone building erected at the end of the 19th century, of castle-like towers and turrets, grand arched windows and slender spires, it’s a gargantuan institution and will take an entire day if you want to attempt to see everything. For the highlights, head to the national history exhibition which tells the story of how Switzerland became a nation over six centuries, from the late Middle Ages to today.

The smaller “Simply Zürich” showcase is also very informative. ➤ www.landesmuseum.ch/en If you have more time, add world-class art galleries the Kunsthaus and the Rietberg to your to-do list. Other gems include the Museum of Design; the Haus Konstruktiv (a modern art museum in an old power station) and the Pavillon Le Corbusier – a showcase of the celebrated Swiss architect’s work, set within the last house he designed. ➤ www.pavillon-le-corbusier.ch/en

58

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

Pavillon Le Corbusier

Landesmuseum

CITY FOCUS ZÜRICH

TH E GR EAT OUTDOORS

Uetliberg, Zürich’s own mountain

Seebad Enge

ONE OF THE REASONS THAT ZÜRICH consistently rates as one of the world’s most liveable cities, is its combination of urban cool and natural serenity. Forests make up almost a quarter of the land, while bathing in the lake or the river is one of the most popular ways to spend glorious summer days. Visit Seebad Enge for its stunning panoramas over Lake Zürich towards the Alps. ➤ www.seebadenge.ch Just over 40 kilometres long, Lake Zürich is surrounded by well-kept paths and cycleways, as well as a multitude of waterfront bars and restaurants, making it perfect for a casual scenic stroll. A variety of cruises leave from Bürkliplatz or you can simply people-watch and enjoy the ambience at one of the many lakeside parks. If you buy a Toblerone ice-cream from a street vendor and go for a stroll without a destination, you could find yourself anywhere from a pop-up art exhibition to a serene lakeside bar.

Another superb destination for a sunny day is Uetliberg, Zürich’s own mountain, which is visible from much of the city.

Just 20 minutes from downtown, Uetliberg offers an Alpine experience on the city’s doorstep as well as unforgettable panoramic vistas of Zürich, Lake Zürich and the Alps. While its height of 870 metres will not cause much excitement among serious mountaineers, the many hiking trails make for a wonderful day out, exploring lush, green forests and peaceful farmland, disturbed only by the occasional herd of cows. ➤

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

59

Rathaus

L EG ENDS O F S A I N T S A ND CU LI N A RY D E L I G H TS AS THE SUN GETS LOWER and one’s thoughts naturally turn to wining and dining, before heading to the riverfront neighbourhoods of Altstadt and Niederdorf, make one last cultural stop.

Presiding over the Limmatquai, the Grossmünster is an enduring presence, its ‘salt and pepper’ twin domes one of the city’s best-recognised symbols. Legend has it, that after the beheading of Zürich’s first Christians, Felix and Regula, they miraculously arose and carried their own heads to the place where the Romanesque church now stands. According to the story, Charlemagne’s horse fell to its knees at the spot where Zürich’s patron saints were buried, prompting the great king to build a monastery on the site. The current building was completed around 1220, but it was not until the 18th century that the distinctive neo-Gothic tower tops were added. Once through the church’s grand bronze doors, do pause to see the

Hiltl restaurant

60

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

stained-glass windows added in 1932 by Swiss artist Augusto Giacometti.

After visiting the Grossmünster, take a stroll along the Limmatquai, past the impressive Rathaus (City Hall), and then head away from the river towards the Münstergasse in search of some sustenance of a more earthly kind.

Traditional Swiss cuisine is notoriously heavy, but it would be bad form not to try some local favourites. Start with the local delicacy Zurcher Geschnetzeltes – an indulgent dish of sliced veal, white wine, cream, onion and mushrooms, often served with the Swiss staple of rösti (fried potatoes of more-ish fluffiness). Or, for a cheesy overload, opt for a classic fondue or raclette. While fondue is the quintessential Swiss national dish, Zürich lays claim to being its culinary home, since the first recipe was published in a Zürich cookbook in 1699. Of course, it’s not all bread, meat and cheese! Zürich is also home to the world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant, Hiltl, which was founded in 1898. ➤ www.hiltl.ch/en After dinner, wander to Cabaret Voltaire on Spiegelgasse for a post-dinner drink in the venue where the counterculture art movement Dadaism was founded in 1916. The cafe/bar also hosts regular art exhibitions and live jazz performances.

➤ ➤ www.cabaretvoltaire.ch/de

Campbell Gray Hotels is delighted to announce the debut of Alex Lake Zurich. This new boutique luxury hotel has a unique position right on the western shore of this iconic Swiss lake, making it one of the most stylish and elegant hotels on Lake Zurich. Located just 15 minutes from Zurich and Zug, it is ideal for both business and leisure guests, catering for every need. ALEX will even take you on a boat ride to downtown Zurich in their very own boat!

Choose your Studio, Executive or Penthouse Suite - they all come with balconies offering breath-taking views of the lake’s unspoiled waters and the Swiss Alps in the distance. Set across five floors and featuring state-of-the-art architectural and interior design, ALEX has 44 modern studios and penthouses in total, perfectly equipped for both short or extended stays.

Take time for yourself in the PUREGRAY spa & gym, relax by the fireplace in the lounge bar and enjoy the atmosphere of The Boat House, our popular restaurant, terrace and bar.

ALEX makes sure you feel like home and experience authentic Swiss lakeside living at its best.

For more information and reservations please call +41 44 552 9999 or email info@alexlakezurich.com

Seestrasse 182, 8800 Thalwil, Lake Zurich, Switzerland Tel +41 44 552 9999 | info@alexlakezurich.com | alexlakezurich.com

TI M E W E L L S P E N T LOOKING OUT OVER THE LIMMAT at night, lights playing out across the water from nearby bars and cafes, while lovers stroll hand in hand along the waterfront, the timelessness of this city becomes more apparent. If you were to take away the electricity, trams and luxury sports cars roaring past, this

62

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

could be any night in any century, where drinkers spill out from a nearby tavern after setting the world to rights, families squabble good naturedly as they walk home together and vendors ply their various trades to passers-by, overlooked by the comfortingly familiar presence of centuries-old church towers as the river flows silently past as it has done for thousands of years.

CITY FOCUS ZÜRICH

The juxtaposition of old and new and the contemporary and traditional is a recurring theme and large part of Zürich’s appeal. It’s a city that looks forward zealously to keep at the forefront of finance, IT, technology, environmental issues and social trends. Yet its modernity is firmly anchored in ancient cultural traditions and a complicated, multi-faceted history, a sense of itself as a unique city which has endured

war and turmoil, cultural revolutions and religious schism, and ultimately triumphed and thrived. Its role as one of the world’s financial powerhouses is just one chapter in Zürich’s rich cultural story, which began when the Romans decided that a hill near a lake was a good place for a tax collection point, and continues to move forwards and change with the times. ➤ www.zuerich.com/en

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

63

W H ER E TO STAY I N SW I TZ ER L A N D’ S L A RGE ST M ET ROPOL IS

C I T Y

F O C U S

S TAY

STORCHEN MARKTGASSE HOTEL ALEX 25HOURS LANGSTRASSE 25HOURS ZURICH WEST BAUR AU LAC

Storchen hotel’s private pier Zürich, Switzerland

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

65

STORCH EN

➸

SURROUNDED BY THE PICTURESQUE LANES, hidden alleys and quaint squares which are synonymous with Zürich’s historic old town, to rest your head at Storchen is to not only be located in arguably the city’s best location, but also to sleep in an iconic piece of Swiss hospitality history, for the hotel has been welcoming guests for more than six centuries.

Legend has it that “Zum Storchen” was named after a pair of rare, black storks, which were found nesting on the roof of the house back in the 14th century, when the building operated as an inn. Positioned at one end of the first bridge ever built to span the city’s main aquatic artery, where the river is at its most narrow, here too were the crossroads of trade routes to neighbouring countries, providing Storchen with a steady flow of patrons ranging from market traders and merchants to travellers and explorers. To this day, Storchen is the only hotel in Zürich located directly on the Limmat, and even boasts its own pier for guests to arrive by boat and enter the hotel via its riverfront entrance.

66

I S S U E 2 9 ➤ MM AARRCCHH –– MM AAYY 22 00 22 00

A number of Zürich’s most important historic and cultural sights lie within the easily walkable area surrounding Storchen on both sides of the river, between Hauptbahnhof and the lake. And while the full length of the front of the hotel is fringed by the picturesque river, the back of the hotel is lined with the city’s most exclusive shops and designer boutiques. Also within a short stroll of Storchen, are the city’s grandest churches, the Grossmünster and Fraumünster, as well as St. Peterskirche with the continent’s largest clock face.

Rebuilt in 1938, Storchen has been regularly modernised, refreshed and improved to continuously cater to the needs of its discerning guests. The most recent renovation just a few years ago, which cost many millions, elevated the hotel to global status and bedecked the entire property with an air of sophisticated exclusivity, which is palpable the moment you pull up in front of pink painted Storchen’s main entrance on Weinplatz.

Such is the warmth of the staff from the moment of arrival, that staying at Storchen is akin to being part of an exclusive family of hoteliers for a short while, one where even the slightest issue is rectified swiftly and gracefully.

Just off the lobby, the hotel’s stylish glass-fronted ground floor bar and

S TAY

lounge, Barchetta, is the perfect spot to sip a latté and watch the passing boats while planning a day of sightseeing. On the first floor, the charming Rôtisserie serves international cuisine for breakfast, lunch and dinner. And on the fifth floor, a small but amply equipped fitness room is available for in-house guests to work off any extra calories!

67 rooms and suites offer every conceivable comfort, with most also boasting direct views onto the river, the Weinplatz and the old town. Located on the top floor of the building, The Cultured Traveller’s double aspect 65m² “Lifestyle Suite” – complete with a walk-in, spalike steam/shower room – provided spectacular views of the square, river, lake and mountains in the distance and was literally the perfect weekend base.

Storchen’s unique location and beautifully appointed deluxe rooms undoubtedly make it the best choice for exploring Zürich’s old town and, constantly going the extra mile, the hotel’s inimitable staff deftly elevate every stay to another hospitality level.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

➤ www.storchen.ch/en

ENJOY THE BEST VIEW DIRECTLY FROM YOUR ROOM IN THE HEART OF ZURICH storchen.ch 67

68

S TAY

MARK TGASSE HOTEL

➸

A STONE’S THROW FROM the Limmat, heritage-listed Marktgasse Hotel is at the lively centre of the city’s happening old town, mere steps away from the plethora of restaurants, bars, cafés and alluring little boutiques which line the centuries-old crisscross of laneways. Less than a 10-minute walk from the luxury designer shops of Bahnhofstrasse, the hotel is also within mere minutes of Bürkliplatz, where boats depart for pleasure cruises on Lake Zürich.

One of Zürich’s oldest hospitality addresses, this handsome townhouse has presided over its little corner since the 15th century. Today, its smart terracotta and cream trimmed frontage welcomes guests into a distinctively unique establishment, which prides itself on a seamless melding of the time-honoured and the contemporary.

39 individually designed rooms and suites combine the old with contemporary designer furnishings in a minimalist, modern aesthetic, including a rooftop suite with its own terrace.

Each guestroom is slightly different, with many

retaining heritage elements, including stucco work and traditional Swiss ceramic tiled stoves.

Oak herringbone parquet floors add a timeless touch while the sense of spaciousness is enhanced by a palette of neutrals and plenty of natural light thanks to large windows. Bathrooms are tiled in classic black and white and, along with a rain-shower or bath, boast large bottles of eco-friendly Aesop amenities.

Surprisingly for lodgings establishment overlooking a busy pedestrian thoroughfare, once inside, an oasis-like quiet is evident, from the serene, light-filled reception area through to every guest room.

Marktgasse’s ground floor hosts two eating and drinking venues. The “delish” café and takeaway serves continental breakfasts to hotel guests before serving light lunches to the public at large. Meanwhile, in the space formerly occupied by Baltho, multiple Michelin-starred chef Andreas Caminada has recently opened fine dining sharing concept restaurant IGNIV, the third such establishment courtesy of the much-celebrated chef, the other two being in

Bangkok and St. Moritz.

Leisure wise, Marktgasse’s guests have free access to the facilities at Hamam Münstergasse which is just a few minutes from the hotel on foot. Here, guests can relax in the Turkish-style bathhouse, make use of the fitness area or take a class, all without charge.

With its unique range of guestrooms, unbeatable location and affable service courtesy of friendly staff, the Marktgasse has a timeless formula for hospitality success. The decision to celebrate both the old and new, rather than stick slavishly to a heritage theme, is an inspired one, in keeping with Zürich’s own dual nature as both history rich and unabashedly contemporary.

DAWN GIBSON

➤ www.marktgassehotel.ch

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

69

ALEX

➸

UNTIL RELATIVELY RECENTLY, it has to be said that Zürich’s hotel scene noticeably lacked an entirely design-led property. For, while the city boasts a number of historic and characterful abodes to rest one’s head, nowhere could be described as being thoughtfully and stylishly designed with the discerning, global traveller in mind. The unveiling of uber-cool ALEX, in the middle of 2019, changed all that.

Located on Lake Zürich’s western shore in Thalwil, five kilometres from the city centre, ALEX is unique in that it offers space, exceptional design and a tranquil environment whilst being only 15 minutes in a taxi to the old town. Yet, it is ALEX’s rather special position – sitting directly on the water’s edge – which makes it one of the most desirable places to stay in Zürich today.

Huge expanses of glass fronting the hotel’s destination Boat House restaurant, terrace and bar – open 365 days per year – make the most of its enviable setting. Here you can not only sit back and soak in the incredible 180-degree views up and down the lake, but also dine on some of the most gastronomically accomplished and reasonably priced classic fare in Zürich, served morning, noon and night.

70

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

On the lake side of the hotel, a sprawling al fresco terrace, bar and lounge makes the best of ALEX’s location and will undoubtedly be a hit this summer.

A 24-hour fitness room and chic, bijou day spa, complete with a large whirlpool boasting lake views, is open for residents only.

Upstairs, London-based designers BradyWilliams – the talented duo behind a number of Corbin & King’s restaurants – have bedecked the hotel’s 44 generously proportioned studios and penthouses with timber flooring, soft linens, kitchenettes and

French doors that open directly onto glorious lake views. Shower rooms are spacious, smart and function perfectly. Black-out blinds electrically glide into place to ensure an utterly restful sleep. Every conceivable mod-con has been built-in but doesn’t feel gimmicky in any way. On the contrary, the overall effect is one of class, sophistication and luxury, skilfully married with a connectivity to the water that is almost certainly unsurpassed anywhere else around Lake Zürich. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

➤ www.campbellgrayhotels.com/alex-

lake-zurich

S TAY

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

71

25HOURS LANGSTRASSE 25HOURS ZURICH WEST

➸

MANY HOTELS PROMISE a unique experience but ultimately fail to deliver.

For every traveller who has booked into an ‘individual boutique hotel’ to find a stock-standard offering with some random splashes of colour on the walls, 25hours hotels could be the designer tonic to your artisanal gin.

With a mission to stand out from the competition, the Accor-affiliated German group oversees more than a dozen design-driven properties across Germany’s largest cities, as well as Vienna, Paris and Zürich, and is launching in Dubai and Florence this year.

Though each hotel is determinedly different,

72

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

there is a collective sense of playfulness and eccentricity to all, combined with a relaxed yet professional approach to service, aimed squarely at cosmopolitan digital nomads. All 25Hours hotels practically scream ‘Insta me now’.

Zürich’s two 25hours hotels are located in the city’s liveliest neighbourhoods: in the once notorious but now rapidly gentrifying red-light district of Langstrasse, and in the former industrial zone of Zürich-West, a vibrant hipster hub of clubs, bars and art. In both, 25hours is bucking the staid Swiss banking-and-business stereotype with extras such as rooftop yoga, resident artists, and, most appealingly, two

MINI cars which in-house guests can borrow free-of-charge.

25hours Langstrasse is a modern building less than 10 minutes’ walk from the central train station, its exterior illuminated by multicoloured Tracey Emin-esque neon signs. The quasi-industrial open-plan lobby establishes an irreverent theme, pursued throughout by German designer Werner Aisslinger.

In a nod to the locale, the reception doubles as a pawn shop, with vintage cameras, brass coffee pots and shoemakers’ lasts on display, and you can negotiate to settle your bill with art or a sought-after collectable.

S TAY

Main and below: 25hours Langstrasse; Centre inset and above: 25Hours Zurich West

The hotel is home to arty Cinchona Bar, known for its DJs and long list of high balls, and Middle Eastern eatery NENI. In the middle, a string and metal installation holds aloft FREITAG bags which are available for guests to use.

Upstairs, 170 guestrooms, some of which have panoramic city views, are furnished in sleek contemporary style with an abundance of blonde wood and pops of blue, green and red.

A melding of fun and function is also at the heart of 25Hours Zurich West, housed in a slick black box fronting a business plaza, 15 minutes by tram from downtown. The hotel is easy to spot, thanks to Swiss artist Alex Hanimann’s glistening five-metre metal sculpture of a girl at the entrance.

The emphasis on art continues within, where Zürich-based designer Alfredo Häberli has been allowed to let his vivid imagination run riot on

everything from the furniture to the carpets to the glassware. The result is an airy, atriumcentric space, made unique by a marriage of contemporary and retro design in a palette of warm colours and sensuous Picasso-style curves. Convoluted pink neon installations provide a conversation starter for those gathered around the invitingly lit corrugated L-shaped bar, lined with stools in gelato shades.

Upstairs, Häberli’s aesthetic is apparent in

each of the 126 guestrooms, from the abstract curved mirrors to the child-like wall murals, and carpets with a scattering of geometric prints designed to flow into the rooms. As with all art, it will not be to everyone’s taste – the coin-mosaic bathrooms in lipstick shades could be challenging for some, particularly after a heavy night – but it’s far from boring. In fact, “boring” is the last word one would ever use to describe a 25Hours hotel!

DAWN GIBSON ➤

www.25hours-hotels.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

73

BAU R AU L AC

➸

RATHER A SWISS HOSPITALITY institution than a mere hotel, Zürich’s iconic Baur au Lac has been serving the local population and international globetrotters for 175 years and has been owned and managed by the same family throughout. Herein lies the secret of its continued success: hands-on owner Andrea Kracht, representing the sixth generation of the owning family, who keeps his office in the building and is very much in touch with the global hotel industry.

Almost certainly the grandest of Switzerland’s old palace hotels and set within a stunning, private manicured park overlooking Lake Zürich, Baur au Lac is genteel, sophisticated and stately without being pompous or stuffy.

Hard to pull off when surrounded by palace-like rooms and grand public spaces oozing a variety of regal styles not limited to Art Deco, Louis XVI and English Regency, the overarching sense of warmth and calm which is palpable throughout the property is due in large part to the friendly staff and management style of Kracht and the hotel’s general manager, Willem Luxem. Luxem, in turn, attributes the hotel’s popularity to a wonderfully dedicated team committed to delivering the best possible customer service.

Something of a treasure chest of precious hospitality memories and family moments, with almost mystical status in the hotel industry, over the years Baur Au Lac

has welcomed countless stars of stage and screen, prime ministers, statesman and royalty, including Indira Gandhi, Alfred Hitchcock, George W. Bush, Margaret Thatcher, Placido Domingo, Audrey Hepburn and Sophia Loren. And such is the level of the hotel’s customer service, that Baur Au Lac attracts a large number of returning guests, who will literally stay nowhere else in Zürich.

119 flamboyant rooms and suites follow a rich interior design aesthetic, laden with a variety of contemporary touches including oversized photographs, colourful artworks, vibrant carpets, dramatic curtains and padded leather headboards.

Downstairs, a number of excellent food and beverage options await residents and visitors alike, the most notable of which are a majestic lobby for afternoon tea, a beautiful terrace overlooking the property’s park-like gardens, two

74

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

S TAY

Michelin-starred Pavilion restaurant and the hotel’s latest F&B addition, brasserie-style Baur’s, which has become incredibly popular since opening last year. Irrespective of where you dine or drink at Baur Au Lac, the food is exceptionally good and the service is top notch to match.

On site leisure options include jogging trails and a wellequipped fitness centre on the top floor of the hotel, the latter boasting breathtaking views over the park and Lake Zürich. The best of the city’s sights are also within walking distance of Baur Au Lac. Akin to lodging at a full-service resort hotel at the very centre of one of the world’s most high-profile financial hubs, to stay at Baur Au Lac is to experience traditional hospitality brought bang up to date with attentive service and incredible attention to detail. ADRIAN GIBSON

➤ www.bauraulac.ch/en

ZÜRICH’S TOP CULTURAL SIGHTS

SEE

76

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

FRAUMÜNSTER

➸

OVER A MILLENNIUM AGO, Zürich was effectively ruled by a woman and the Fraumünster was the seat of her power.

Founded in 853 by Louis the German as a gift to his daughter Hildegard, the building began life as a Benedictine convent for Europe’s female aristocracy. However, by the 11th century, the convent had obtained the right to hold markets, collect tolls and, most crucially, mint coins. Eventually the abbess was also given the right to choose Zürich’s mayor, making her the most powerful political figure in town. This came to an end in the 14th century when the city’s guilds were established, but the power struggle metaphorically continues to this day in Fraumünster’s slim spire rising alongside Zürich’s medieval guild houses. Inside, the church’s south transept is dominated by five, stunning stained-glass lozenge-shaped windows, in rich jewelled tones, which were completed by Chagall when he was in his eighties. Meanwhile, the northern transept features stained-glass windows by Augusto Giacometti. DAWN GIBSON

➤ www.fraumuenster.ch/en

LAW LIBRARY, UNIVERSITY OF ZÜRICH INAUGURATED IN NOVEMBER 2004 and home to more than 200,000 books, this architectural masterpiece, located in the University of Zürich, was designed by famed Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava and has been a major draw ever since it opened. Viewed from outside, the Faculty of Law building appears to have changed little since it was designed

by Hermann Fietz in 1909. Even the most observant will probably notice nothing more than an elongated oval glass dome on the roof. But it is this dome that lends the library its radiance in the very heart of the building, covering what was once an open, central courtyard. Six enveloping, lenticular galleries – with desks for students seamlessly fringing its balustrades – accompany the light towards a spectacular, expansive ground floor space which welcomes quiet visitors whether studying or not. Instagrammers will be pleased to note that photography is permitted!

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

➤ www.ius.uzh.ch/de/library

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

77

BLÜEMLIHALLE WHEN ZÜRICH’S FORMER orphanage was converted into an administrative building in 1911, the building’s basement was transformed into a grand entrance hall. In 1922, the city launched a competition to decorate the gloomy space and offer employment to the local artistic community. Born in Stampa and hailing from the famous Giacometti artistic dynasty, Swiss painter Augusto Giacometti won the competition hands down. Using the al secco technique of mural painting executed upon freshly laid lime plaster, the painter’s vision for the hall, characterised by warm reds and ochre tones, was executed by Giacometti between 1922 and 1926 assisted by a number of other Zürich artists. The painted ceilings and vaulted roof feature floral ornaments and geometric shapes, while the walls depict people at work including stonemasons representing the handicrafts and astronomers representing science. Affectionately known as the “Blüemlihalle” (hall of little flowers), despite now being the entrance hall to a police station, visitors are welcomed between 09:00-11:00 and 14:00-16:00 daily upon presentation of ID, but photography is not permitted. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU ➤ Giacometti-Halle,

Amtshaus I, Bahnhofquai 3

MUSEUM RIETBERG

➸

HOUSED IN A CLUSTER of 19th century villas, where Wagner once composed some of his famous works, the Rietberg sits proudly in a grand 17-acre park near the northern tip of Lake Zürich. Dedicated to traditional and contemporary art from Asia, Africa, the Americas and Oceania, it’s the perfect anecdote if you have been overdosing on European culture. The impressive collection of around 23,000 objects includes everything from fierce tribal masks to exquisite Chinese porcelain, Himalayan Buddhist art to Islamic ceramics, and Javanese shadow puppets to a Maori war canoe. The museum is also home to an incredible collection of almost 40,000 ethnographic photographs. To ensure that as much as possible could be on permanent display, a contemporary underground extension was added in 20017. Topped with a green glass pavilion and fittingly called ‘The Emerald’, it was designed by Swiss architect Alfred Grazioli and his Austrian counterpart Adolf Krischanitz.

DAWN GIBSON

78

➤ www.rietberg.ch/en

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

SEE

RAPPERSWIL CASTLE A walk through the medieval town of Rapperswil – with its cobblestoned streets and thick, high walls – is like stepping back in time just a few minutes’ walk from the bustling city centre, and visiting this charming part of Zürich is equally enchanting whether the weather is fine or inclement. Built at around 1200 AD atop Lindenhof Hill, Rapperswil Castle was erected by Count Rudolf II and his son and the property remained in the family until the death of its last count in the late 13th century. Rebuilt and renovated over the years, the town’s citizens became its gatekeepers in 1442. However, over the course of time, the castle fell into a state of disrepair, until it was leased to a Polish count in the 19th century who restored it at his own expense and established a Polish museum. A small deer park and Zürich’s oldest vineyard are also located within the castle’s grounds, but it’s the sweeping lake and mountain vistas which most enamour, not to mention delightful Rapperswil town nearby. DAWN GIBSON

➤ www.swiss-castles.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

79

Zunfthaus Zur Haue

GUILD HOUSES

➸

THE GRANDEUR OF THE HISTORIC guild houses lining the Limmat is a tribute to a time when Zürich’s guilds were all powerful. 14 Zünfte (guilds) were registered under a system set up in 1336, and after a couple of mergers, 12 have continued to the present day. Walk from the town hall along the Limmatquai towards Münsterbrücke, and you will pass the Zunfthaus zur Saffran (originally a textiles and spice traders’ guild), Zunfthaus zur Haue (wine merchants and food traders), Haus zum Rüden (initially nobility, then citizens who didn’t belong to another guild!), and Zunfthaus zur Zimmerleuten (carpenters and builders).

When you reach the Münsterbrücke, you are directly across the water from the Zunfthaus zur Meisen, originally the innkeepers’ guild, which is a grand Rococo palace which now houses an upmarket restaurant. Cross the bridge and continue past the Fraumünster to the Zunfthaus zur Waag (linen and wool weavers’ guild) which is also an elegant dining establishment serving both classic and contemporary Swiss fare. DAWN GIBSON

Zunfthaus Zur Meisen

80

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

SEE

KUNSTHAUS

➸

THERE ARE NOT MANY PLACES where you can admire a Rodin nude in front of a Picasso, then come face-to-face with a Renoir in the same small room. The Kunsthaus is one such place, where it’s quite possible to overlook priceless old masters while coming to terms with the sheer scale of its artistic riches. Located a 10-minute stroll from the old town centre, the collection encompasses around 4,000 paintings and sculptures and a further 95,000 prints and drawings from the 13th century to today, including works by Degas, Matisse, Magritte, van Gogh, Warhol, Chagall and Rothko. Don’t miss the largest collection of Munch paintings outside Norway, the room devoted to Monet’s Water Lilies, and works by Swiss greats including sculptor Alberto Giacometti and painters Böcklin and Hodler. A five-year project extending the Kunsthaus will be completed later this year, doubling its exhibition space and making it Switzerland’s largest art museum. It’s also worth knowing that admission is free on Wednesdays. DAWN GIBSON ➤ www.kunsthaus.ch/en

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

81

THE TA ST I E ST FOOD IN ZÜRICH

TA S T E BRASSERIE LIPP

➸

FOR A QUINTESSENTIALLY FRENCH brasserie experience with a healthy dash of Parisian joie de vivre in a bustling setting – complete with waiters moving at high speed in every direction – head to Brasserie Lipp just off Bahnhofstrasse. Modelled on the original restaurant of the same name in Paris, Zürich’s incarnation deftly celebrates traditional French home cooking in a vast 200-seater restaurant decorated in an Art Deco style with more than an aura of La Belle Époque. The fresh fish and seafood are particularly good, especially the numerous types of oysters (a speciality) and various Fruits de Mer options.

Also worth ordering are the home made fish soup and tartare prepared with tuna, salmon or beef. If you happen to be in the neighbourhood around lunchtime, Lipp’s seasonal Parisianstyle lunch menu is ideal for a cheeky mid-afternoon wine-fuelled sojourn to break up the sightseeing! Almost always packed, reservations for weekend nights are essential.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

➤ www.brasserie-lipp.ch/en

82

NENI

➸

NAMED FOR THE INITIALS OF HER FOUR SONS, chef and restaurateur Haya Molcho is a big fan of the term ‘balagan’, or ‘pleasant chaos’ in Hebrew, so much so that it’s the title of one of her cookbooks. Balagan is also an apt description for her NENI restaurant at 25hours Langstrasse Hotel, where an eclectic mix of Zürich foodies come together to dive into flavourful sharing plates of eastern Mediterranean cuisine in a lively environment anchored by a bustling, open kitchen. Banquettes curve around the centre, surrounded by tables in front of giant street-facing picture windows, while a muddle of rainbowstriped lamps, faintly reminiscent of a Middle Eastern bazaar, give off a warm glow. The expansive menu has something to suit most tastes, including vegan and vegetarian diners.

Highly recommended is the groaningly large Sabich, NENI’s take on Tel Aviv street food, combining scrumptious fried eggplant and soft-boiled organic egg with tahini, salsa and humus. DAWN GIBSON ➤ www.neni.ch/en/langstrasse

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

83

BAUR’S

➸

LOCATED JUST OFF BAHNHOFSTRASSE, Baur’s is the latest gastronomic offering from iconic Zürich hospitality institution Baur Au Lac and opened just six months ago – to much widespread acclaim – in a space within the hotel formerly known as Rive Gauche. The brainchild of sixthgeneration hotelier and owner of Baur au Lac, Andrea Kracht, Baur’s has been thoughtfully designed in the style of an arty, local brasserie, complete with an eclectic art collection covering its walls and Murano glass chandeliers overhead. The result is a vibrant, friendly and endearing venue, which is both contemporary and timeless and doesn’t hurt the purse strings.

Indeed, eating at Baur’s is incredibly reasonable for such high-quality fare delivered to the table by a distinctively affable and efficient team. Capitalising on the vast array of fresh seasonal vegetables, meats and fish readily available locally, the straightforward menu allows the top-quality produce to shine. Anything ordered at Baur’s is cooked to perfection and will undoubtedly impress, even more so when paired with a vintage selected from sommelier Marc Almert’s excellent list, which is also competitively priced. If you can choose just one smartish restaurant to dine at during a weekend in Zürich, let it be Baur’s and you won’t be disappointed. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

➤ www.baurs-zurich.ch/en

84

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

TA S T E

LILY’S ORIGINAL WIDDER KITCHEN

➸

OCCUPYING EIGHT, ADJOINING HERITAGE BUILDINGS dating back to medieval times, smart Widder hotel has been at the heart of Zürich’s hospitality scene for decades. In addition to offering 49 rooms and suites each individually designed to sympathetically accentuate its ancient framework, the hotel is also home to a number of F&B venues including Widder Kitchen and Widder Bar, the latter being an established old town drinking den for locals and tourists alike. In 2017, the hotel added a superb ‘fine dining sharing’ concept restaurant to its gastronomic offerings in the form of Widder Kitchen, which has been skilfully woven into the fabric of the building by celebrated Swiss architect and interior designer Tilla Theus. The food side of things is amply taken care of by accomplished chef Tino Staub, who delivers a wide menu of delectable, modern dishes inspired by a range of reinterpreted global flavours, although it is his Asian interpretations which are most notable for their depth of taste and exquisite presentation. In particular, the dim sum is quite literally perfection. Staub’s culinary excellence, fused with Theus’ sharp yet warm old-meets-new interior décor scheme, makes Widder Kitchen a must for gourmands visiting Zürich. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU ➤ www.widderhotel.com

➸

FRONTING LANGSTRASSE, LILY’S HAS BEEN a comforting fixture on Zürich’s dining scene for just over 20 years, renowned for its pan-Asian menu and fast service. The décor is contemporary and very casual, with long wooden benches for communal eating set around an open kitchen in a spacious setting of clean lines and minimal design.

However, the menu is anything but minimalistic; more a culinary journey through the flavours of Japan, Thailand, Vietnam, China, Sri Lanka, Korea, Indonesia, India and Pakistan. While the curry selection is very popular, the Pad Thai Gai is a must-try for its satisfying combination of textures and flavours, a soft smack of fried rice noodles juxtaposed with crisp raw soy sprouts, chicken chunks and organic tofu, in a tamarind sauce.

Also ensure you at least peruse Lily’s extensive teekarte, which includes a range of herb, spice and blossom-infused brews with enticing names such as Sherpa’s Mystery and Hypericum Sunshine. With a focus on fresh flavours done well, it’s easy to see why Lily’s has attracted a loyal following. DAWN GIBSON ➤ www.lilys.ch

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

85

FRAU GEROLDS GARTEN

➸

A VERITABLE URBAN OASIS of greenery and colour in trendy Zürich-West, occupying a part of the city which was pretty much an industrial wasteland less than a decade ago, no visit to Zürich is complete without spending an evening hanging out at Frau Gerolds Garten, whether eating, drinking or people watching. An incredibly popular meeting place for all of Zürich’s hipsters, creatives and arty types, Frau Gerolds is also destination central for city lovers of all ages over the summer months, when everyone meets in the garden to feel good, have fun and chill out. In line with its urban gardens which cover more

86

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

than a quarter of the site, Frau Gerolds offers local, simple and seasonal fare. In the summer, the lunch and dinner menus change daily. Think barbequed sausages served with seasonal salads and pasta dishes topped with thinly sliced Parmesan, all served in eco-friendly 100% compostable plates. In the winter, Frau Gerolds completely changes its appearance, when a huge timber building is erected, in which a log fire burns and cheese fondue is served to hundreds. A perennial favourite with locals and visitors alike, head to Zürich-West late afternoon to browse the funky shops and end the day on a high at Frau Gerolds. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

➤ www.fraugerold.ch

TA S T E RACLETTE FACTORY AS IS THE CASE WITH FONDUE, raclette’s history is steeped in cultural traditions going back centuries. ‘Raclette’ refers both to the type of cheese – a semi-hard Alpine cheese with an agreeable aroma – and the dish, created by heating the cheese and scraping off the melted part. It is believed to have originated with cow herders in the mountains, who would place their cheese next to a campfire in the evenings.

In a prime spot in the bustling heart of Zürich’s old town, the Raclette Factory serves up traditional cheesy goodness until late at night, catering to famished sightseers and bar-hoppers alike. The eatery is cosily simple - all wood for a touch of Alpine shabby chic finished with black and red chairs. The menu is also straight-forward – Switzerland’s famous melted cheese dish served in an abundance of varieties, from blue to truffle-infused, chili to sapsago clover, accompanied by no-nonsense sides such as potatoes and pickled onions. It’s warming, hearty fare served quickly, which is perfect after a busy day of exploring! DAWN GIBSON

➤ www.raclette-factory.ch

BOTTEGA BERTA

➸

PROMISING THE BEST pasta in Zürich, Bottega Berta is a local favourite that more than lives up to expectations. A short walk from fashionable Idaplatz, booking ahead is vital since there are only 28 seats, although this expands with some outside tables in the summer. A pared interior of wood-panelled walls, mismatched chairs, a plain red-bricked floor and old-fashioned blackboard menus only adds to the charm. The food is Italian-focused Mediterranean fare based around the universal principle of top ingredients cooked beautifully and pared with quality wines.

While the menu changes daily, the hedonistically creamy ricotta ravioli with truffle is worth looking out for. Make sure you sample some grappa, or, if the heady Italian spirit is not to your taste, try the white port and tonic with mint, as a refreshing alternative to a G&T. Run by Chris Eckstein, Oliver Gotz and Hamdi Hebibi for almost a decade, Bottega Berta is a lovely combination of friendly service and exquisite cuisine. A must-visit. DAWN GIBSON ➤ www.bottegaberta.ch

87

ZÜRICH’S BEST C O C KTA I L BA R S

SIP BARCHETTA BAR & LOUNGE PERFECTLY POSITIONED IN the very centre of the old town and occupying the riverfront ground floor side of historic Storchen hotel, Barchetta is the perfect place to while away an hour gazing towards the guild houses and the Grossmünster on the opposite bank of River Limmat, or meet for an apéro before heading out for a night on the town. The people watching opportunities are also some of the best in Zürich! In the summer months, the seats on the bar’s Weinplatz terrace and stools under the hotel’s colonnade directly on the river are incredibly popular, so arrive early and be prepared to wait. In the colder months, the bar’s gorgeous salon-like spaces inside beg to be lounged in. From April to October, directly in front of Barchetta at the hotel’s very own landing jetty, guests regularly disembark from river boats cruising the city’s main artery, adding to the overall glamour of it all. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

88

➤ www.storchen.ch

S TAY COCO GRILL & BAR YOU KNOW THAT LITTLE BAR and restaurant that’s hard to find, but immensely rewarding when you eventually do? Coco is that place in Zürich. Tucked down a laneway a short stroll from Paradeplatz, its reputation has spread, largely by word-of-mouth, to the point where reservations are essential.

The ambience alone is worth the search; after a few hours browsing nearby Bahnhofstrasse (one of the world’s most exorbitant shopping streets), what could be better than settling down under the light-studded trees in an intimate garden for a delectable cocktail? That said, there is no cocktail menu at Coco, or wine list or food menu for that matter. Swiss chef Patrick Frischknecht, who previously worked for Gordon Ramsay, presents a series of gastronomic surprises based around a grilled main dish of a five-course dinner concept. Meanwhile, ‘global manager of local enjoyment and refreshment’, Dominik Moser, delves into Coco’s cellar to find European wines for the perfect pairings. Moser is also responsible for Coco’s superb signature cocktails. Order a mojito with lavender and eucalyptus for a summery pick-me-up.

DAWN GIBSON

➤ www.restaurant-coco.ch

JULES VERNE PANORAMABAR

➸

LOCATED IN THE HEART of the city, in the Lindenhof quarter of Zürich close to the Bahnhofstrasse, the city’s observatory opened in 1907 and well over a century later still welcomes budding astrologists to gaze into the cosmos above planet earth. Just below the observatory is this very unique bar, where guests can enjoy spectacular views over Zürich’s rooftops towards the lake and the snow-capped Alps beyond while sipping fine beverages. Accessed via an elevator in Brasserie Lipp on the street level, while Jules Verne Panoramabar is the perfect place for a pre-dinner aperitif – with a carefully curated selection of gins, tequilas and rums on offer – the venue is also conveniently located for a mid-afternoon pit stop during a busy day of shopping or sightseeing, and the French-inspired lunch menu doesn’t disappoint. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

➤ www.jules-verne.ch

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

89

BAR SACCHI

➸

ZURICH’S HIP AND QUIET residential District 3, also known as Wiedikon, extends up the lower slopes of Uetliberg mountain, from the top of which visitors enjoy stunning city and lake vistas. Known for its hiking paths, the neighbourhood is home to a number of trendy clubs and relaxed restaurants serving global cuisine to young, upwardly mobile locals. In the heart of Wiedikon, on the Bertastrasse, you will find very popular Bar Sacchi. Elegantly

decorated with walls of rustic pink offset by classic green leather upholstery, you will need to be quick to bag one of its small tables outside, but it will be worth the effort, for this little Italian bar serves one of the best Negronis in the city, which come in a number of rather good self-mixed variants efficiently dispensed from a beverage gun.

Do get the attention of owner Claudio Sacchi and ask what specialities are on offer. DAWN GIBSON ➤ www.sacchi.bar

CINCHONA BAR IN THE DEPTHS of 25hours Hotel Langstrasse is a small room boasting a state-of-the-art machine.

Its sole purpose is to make perfect globes of ice to cool the signature highballs which have made Cinchona Bar a mustvisit for any self-respecting cocktail aficionado in Zürich. Based on a simple concept of pairing spirits with the best quality mixers in tall glasses, Cinchona’s highball menu is extensive and eclectic, varying from versions of reliable classics to more adventurous tipples such as the zesty “M&M”, featuring Mezcal Amores and mango soda. In keeping with the hotel’s hipster vibe, the bar is an all-day venue, where fashionistas sipping espressos on the latté-hued sofas make way for a sophisticated evening crowd of locals and cultured travellers clustered around the sleek rectangular bar, backed by a soft-focus mosaic which gets ruder the more you peer at it. DJs provide a groovy soundtrack to sip to on Friday and Saturday nights. DAWN GIBSON

➤ www.25hours-hotels.com

90

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

SIP THE OLD CROW NAMED AFTER THE well-known Kentuckymade bourbon to highlight its vast collection of hundreds of whiskies, bourbons and ryes, The Old Crow is a friendly and comfortable backstreet bar, hidden in plain sight in the heart of the old town, which is as easy to pop into for a swift drink as it is to spend an evening enjoying the warm, easy atmosphere and lovingly hand-crafted cocktails.

Presided over by affable, multi award-winning mixologist Markus Blattner (who would much prefer to be called a bartender), The Old Crow offers a huge range of more than 1,600 spirits, including many rare bottles, all of which are available by the glass. Yet, while whisky connoisseurs and gin aficionados will surely find their alcoholic appetites satiated here, there is also much to enthral less experienced lovers of a jolly good drink. And, if you’re feeling a little fragile after a heavy night, a classic Corpse Reviver No. 2 prepared by Blattner will certainly lift you sufficiently to enjoy another cocktail or two! NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

FISCHER’S FRITZ

➸

IT DOESN’T GET MORE RELAXING than sitting on Fischer’s Fritz’s expansive terrace, with a glass white wine in hand, watching the sun set slowly over the bobbing boats on Lake Zürich.

This tranquil, two-storey retreat boasts a relaxed bar and lounge on the ground floor, spilling onto an immaculate green lawn, and a very good restaurant upstairs, all surrounded by pristine camping grounds complete with glamping tents. To enjoy the best views, reserve an al fresco table in the restaurant, and use the opportunity to sample some of Switzerland’s

➤ www.oldcrow.ch

premium sips in a serene setting, cherry-picking from the natural, organic and biodynamic wines presented by wine merchant and curator Paul Blume. The lighter whites from Valais – a region known for its mild, dry microclimate in the shelter of the Alps – are a perfect match for a sunny day spent lakeside. Also recommended is the house special dish of crispy, beer-battered local blue whitefish, caught by Lake Zürich fisherman Adrian Gerny, and served in Fischer’s Fritz with a moreish, homemade tartare sauce. DAWN GIBSON ➤ www. fischers-fritz.ch

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

91

WHERE TO SHOP IN ZÜRICH

S P E N D 92

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

SPEND

The Freitag brothers

FREITAG

➸

FOUNDED IN 1993 BY GRAPHIC DESIGNER BROTHERS Markus and Daniel, who made their first bags in the living room of their shared apartment, FREITAG is a homegrown Zürich success story with 26 outlets around the globe, including stores in Japan. Sustainably producing a range of some 100 durable bags and accessories out of used truck tarps and car seat belts, discarded bicycle inner tubes and the like, in 2006, the bag-making brothers took container architecture to new heights when they erected a towering 26 metre Zürich flagship

store built entirely of recycled shipping containers, each one lovingly gutted, reinforced, piled-up and secured. Within this veritable bonsaiskyscraper are four levels of retail space selling FREITAG’s complete range. Crowning the tower is an observation deck open to all, from which visitors can see the tarp-covered lorries that provide FREITAG’s raw material and the trendy, surrounding area – previously considered an industrial wasteland – which the brothers and their bags were pivotal in regenerating. ADRIAN GIBSON ➤ www.freitag.ch/en

GLOBUS STEEPED IN TRADITION, founded over a century ago and originally modelled on the large, sprawling stores of the French capital, that sell pretty much everything under one roof, on the six, stylish levels of Globus’ flagship Zurich store, primely located between the Bahnhofstrasse and Löwenplatz, you will find everything from fashion to beauty and everything in between. A personal shopping service is available, and the store’s first floor Fashion Bar is a great place to pause for a coffee or glass of champagne. A Globus home store – located closer to the lake, in the theatre district – offers an impressive array of gifts and homewares, and also features a stunning food hall (on the lower ground floor) where you will find a vast range of local and European delicacies and gastronomic treats elegantly presented. ADRIAN GIBSON ➤ www.globus.ch

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

93

LIMITED STOCK

➸

FOUNDED BY SCULPTOR HUBERT SPÖRRI and interior designer Ulrich Zickler in 2005, with the aim of showcasing an exclusive selection of rare and precious items to decorate, beautify and individualise one’s home, Limited Stock is housed in a two-centuries-old former locksmith’s workshop, tucked away in a back alley near the Rathaus, in the heart of Zürich’s old town. Something of an Aladdin’s cave of handcrafted, beautiful artefacts and objets d’art, conscientiously sourced from factories and studios around the world which use traditional and sustainable methods, the handpicked gems include vintage tribal carpets, beautifully decorated Nymphenburg porcelain and fine Japanese lacquerware from Wajima.

A must-visit for lovers of quality domestic design, it’s easy to browse for hours amongst Limited Stock’s wonderful array of small-run and handmade treasures. ADRIAN GIBSON

➤ www.limited-stock.com

94

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

MEINRAD’S TEDDY CLINIC TO OPEN THE SMALL WOODEN DOOR and step into this quaint, cottage-like shop, located on Klosbachstrasse in the heart of Zürich’s old town, is to enter a veritable grotto dedicated to teddy bears, dolls, puppets and every type of cuddly toy. Born in Lucerne and formerly trained as a window dresser in the toy department at Globus in Zürich’s city centre, septuagenarian Meinrad Röösli has been running his doll and teddy bear clinic for more than three decades, fixing furry toys-in-distress from around the world.

With threadbare dolls and damaged teddies constantly landing on his doorstep in need of expert tender loving care (with some travelling from as far afield at the States and Asia), Röösli is never short of work, but occasionally has time to make some new furry toys, which his partner sells at Maison de la Poupée on Neumarkt.

NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

➤ www.poupee.ch

ENSOIE

➸

FOUNDED IN 1894, Königsberger, Schimmelburg & Cie. was one of the world’s most important players in the silk trade, supplying leading Parisian fashion houses and prominent designers with customised, highquality silks. In 1974, the tradition-steeped brand was taken over by Monique Meier, who first worked for Königsberger, Schimmelburg & Cie. as a student. The Meier family continue to run the business to this day, from a beautiful store, atelier and studio housed within a 14th century building located at 26 Strehlgasse in Zürich’s old town. Since 2010, EnSoie has been managed

by Monique’s three daughters together with well-known Swiss musician, Dieter Meier. The Meier sisters have succeeded in creatively mixing tradition with innovation. Today, EnSoie retails ceramics, scarves, jewellery, clothing and accessories alongside gorgeous throws and fabrics. ADRIAN GIBSON ➤ www.ensoie.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

95

MAURICE DE MAURIAC

➸

EVEN THOUGH SWITZERLAND is world famous for clocks and timekeeping, quite unbelievably, there is only one watchmaker in Zürich and that is the family-run atelier of Maurice de Mauriac. Founded by Daniel Dreifuss (pictured), Maurice de Mauriac specialises in mechanical watches made to exacting standards. Originally a successful Swiss banker, after the financial crash of 1997, Dreifuss moved away from money and turned to time. He now sells his watches all over the world and works with his two sons, Massimo and Leonard, from a fascinating space at 48 Tödistrasse, in the heart of the old town. Filled with things that inspire the guys – including sporting equipment and unusual artefacts, sitting alongside trays of beautiful watches and leather straps in an array of colours – the atelier is dominated by a large table where global watch connoisseurs get together with Daniel and his sons to discuss timepieces over an espresso. ADRIAN GIBSON

➤ www.mauricedemauriac.ch

Daniel Dreifuss

96

SPEND

MAX CHOCOLATIER IT MUST SURELY be a crime to visit Switzerland and not take home some chocolate and Max Chocolatier is pretty much as good as Swiss chocolates get. Named after the owner’s differently-abled and proudly chocoholic son, this premium Swiss chocolatier is the result of Max’s father, Patrik König, turning a family dream into a reality just over a decade ago, when the first Max Chocolatier boutique opened its doors in Lucerne. Since then, Max Chocolatier has been producing the finest chocolate creations year-round, handmaking everything from entirely natural, fair-trade and organic ingredients. In 2015, Max Chocolatier opened a second boutique at 12 Schlüsselgasse in Zürich, tucked between Bahnhofstrasse and Limmat. Amongst the countless sweet temptations lining its shelves are truffles, nuts, drinking chocolate and spreads, plus a dozen varieties of grand cru chocolate bars.

If you have an hour to spare, book a chocolate tasting and give your taste buds an early Christmas present! NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

➤ www.maxchocolatier.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

97

B

UILT IN 1921, CAPE TOWN’S famous grain silos were the industrial heart of the city’s harbour area for the best part of a century and the tallest buildings in Sub-Saharan Africa for many decades.

For nearly 80 years, the building provided crucial infrastructure to the country’s agricultural and industrial development, until the last shipment of grain set sail to Europe aboard the MV Anangel Wisdom.

By the time operations ceased in 2001, the silos had become a geographical landmark for millions of Afrikaners and everyone knew the unsightly grey concrete building in the middle of Cape Town, which was bizarrely listed as a UNESCO world heritage site. So, in the early part of the last decade, when British architectural genius Thomas Heatherwick began to carve the thrilling Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa (Zeitz MOCAA) out of the building, incorporating many of its original industrial features, everybody noticed and the city’s cultural landscape changed forever.

Showcasing some of Africa’s greatest creative resources, the redeveloped silo building is a skilfully executed and beautifully contrasted mix of raw, historic infrastructure and slick, modern design which permeate both the museum and the hotel. Itself a veritable work of art, Cape Town’s reimagined silo building has become an industrial canvas for the display of the continent’s best art and design. ➤

98

ISSUE 2 9 ➤ MA RCH – MAY 2020

S PA R K L I N G A B O V E C A P E T O W N ’ S V & A WA T E R F R O N T L I K E A N I N D U S T R I A L C H IC J EW EL L ERY BOX, N ICHOL AS CHRISOSTOMOU DROPS ANCHOR IN O N E O F T H E S I L O ’ S R OYA L S U I T E S AND SEES THE MOTHER CITY FROM

suite envy A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE

ROYA L SU IT E 9 05

➤ THE SILO HOTEL, CAPE TOWN

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

99

Unveiled in 2017 and housed within the upper grain elevator portion of the historic complex – which used to sort the grain before conveying it into the 42 storage silos – sits an extraordinary hotel occupying six floors above the Zeitz MOCAA: The Silo.

The pièce de résistance of Royal Portfolio’s petite group of well-groomed high-end hotels, to say that The Silo has redrawn Cape Town’s hospitality landscape is something of an understatement. In effect, The Silo has introduced a new layer

100

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

of luxury to Cape Town’s top tier hotel scene by introducing an immersive stay experience the like of which neither visitors to South Africa nor Capetonians had ever seen before.

Akin to looking out through the panels of a trinket box in the sky, with all of Cape Town before you, The Silo is architecturally punctuated by stunning Thomas

SUITE ENVY

Heatherwick-designed pillowed windows, reputedly costing GBP 50,000 each, that slightly bulge outwards as if gently inflated. Apparently inspired by grain kernels, at night they transform The Silo into a giant glowing lantern in the heart of the V&A Waterfront.

ALMOST AS SHOWSTOPPING AS THE SILO’S architectural presence are its striking interiors, all of which were conceptualised and meticulously executed by ➤

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

101

GNTO ID 1143K015A0283800

Sharing Memories of an Island Escape

Find out more at sheratonrhodesresort.com Sheraton Rhodes Resort Ialyssos Avenue, Rhodes South Aegean, 85101, Greece T +30 22410 75000 info.rhodes@sheraton.com

Š2019 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. All names, marks and logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.

Royal Portfolio’s driving force, founder Liz Biden.

After selling her fashion business in her fifties, Biden established Royal Portfolio for the purpose of converting two of the family’s holiday homes into boutique hotels. The first was Royal Malewane – a luxury safari lodge in Thornybush Private Game Reserve, on the western border of Greater Kruger National Park. Royal Malewane has since won numerous awards. Biden then applied the same formula to Birkenhead House in Hermanus (South Africa’s whale watching hotspot) and La Residence – the family’s 30-acre Franschhoek smallholding in the heart of the Cape Winelands.

With an obvious gift for creating beautiful spaces that are as exotic and plush as they are warm and comfortable, Biden has evidently gone to town at The Silo, drawing inspiration from her travels around the globe to showcase an individual and eclectic collection of art and interior objets d’art throughout the hotel’s public spaces, restaurants and bars, plus 28 guest rooms and suites. Biden’s lively and eclectic style of interior design, in stark contrast to the cold, raw feel of the building’s exterior, deftly complements its surroundings and adds sumptuous swathes of glamour and drama to the proceedings.

THE HOTEL’S DRAMATIC STREET LEVEL LOBBY, which theatrically contrasts old and new, raw and polished in an industrial-chic style, sets the tone for what is to come upstairs. A huge, contemporary chandelier hanging in the double-height space, surrounded by large-scale statement ➤

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

103

artworks juxtaposed against the original grain hoppers, is the first thing I see before taking the elevator to check-in at the sixth-floor reception.

Each in-room interior is furnished differently with one-off pieces, most of which were made to Biden’s specifications.

Every room boasts an enormous bed and at least one of Heatherwick’s massive windows offering spectacular, elevated vistas of the harbour, V&A Waterfront, city centre or surrounding mountains. Even the smallest room is a very generous 45m2, which is larger than some hotel suites.

TRIPLE ASPECT ROYAL SUITE 905 FILLS ALMOST A third of the ninth floor of the hotel. Two bedrooms – each on a corner of the building and boasting enormous rock star bathrooms and three pillowed windows – are separated by a splendid, double-height living, dining and entertaining space, fringed along the entirety of one wall by a generous balcony facing the Atlantic Ocean and Robben Island beyond. One of

104

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

the bedrooms’ multiple windows look towards Table Mountain and Lion’s Head Mountain, while the harbour and city dominate the views from the other.

Biden’s flamboyant design aesthetic is evident throughout the suite. Vibrant silks and deep velvets vie for attention with animal skins, lacquer work, floral prints and gloss finishes.

Massive crystal chandeliers, handmade in Egypt, hang overhead in every room. Carefully placed artefacts and bijou accessories add dashes of interest and colour at every turn.

All the way through the property, artworks selected by Biden to complement the different interiors of each room offer new visual pleasures for returning guests. Amongst more than a dozen works hanging in Royal Suite 905, an expansive, gold-leafed piece from South African artist Pierre Carl Vermeulen’s “Sweat Print” series dominates the dining area.

SUITE ENVY

On the opposite wall by the sofa hangs an intensely colourful, African-influenced and highly detailed mixed media piece

by Carla Kranendonk. Both perfectly suit the considerable entertaining space in which they’re hung but don’t detract from the building’s character, which is still evident despite the multitude of textures and colours.

Yet, while the overall effect upon entering Royal Suite 905 is obviously impressive, the entire space is completely liveable and well-designed. From the inbuilt black-out blinds that glide into position at the touch of a button, to the fully stocked drinks cabinet replenished daily with complimentary juices, wines, bubbly and snacks, everything functions beautifully and Biden’s incredible attention to detail is palpable throughout the suite.

Moreover, the suite’s countless charismatic charms are matched by service which is truly second-to-none. This begins from the moment the manager-on-duty connects with me via WhatsApp, shortly after checking-in, to ensure that my ➤

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

105

106

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

SUITE ENVY

needs are attended to 24/7. This highly personalised service becomes a hallmark of my stay at The Silo and elevates my experience way beyond that of a normal five-star property.

Mornings in the hotel’s Granary Café are not only a visual feast – with all of Cape Town spread out around me, beyond the windows, like an urban buffet – but also a decadent gourmet delight, as waiters hand deliver a multitude of breakfast items to my table in the style of afternoon tea. “Serve yourself” is not something I ever hear at The Silo. On the contrary, every member of staff I encounter could not be more polite, warm and attentive.

A glitzy glass-sided rooftop pool provides an inimitable place to swim and tan in the South African sunshine, with a large part of the adjacent al fresco bar cordoned off for hotel guests to enjoy cocktails and meals undisturbed by non-residents.

AT THE VERY TOP OF THE HOTEL IS THE SILO’S crowning glory – a residents only open-air “Sky Terrace” lounge, boasting perhaps the most spectacular 360° views in all of Cape Town, including jaw-dropping, unobstructed views of Table Mountain. Beginning an evening here at dusk, with friends and sundowners, becomes a highlight of my entire Cape Town visit.

If you are an art aficionado with a penchant for colour and a zest for life, you will adore everything about this incredibly unique hotel located in the epicentre of the African continent’s most vibrant and cultural city. And while occupying a Royal Suite essentially places the entirety of the Mother City at your feet, whichever room category you occupy at The Silo will almost certainly deliver an unforgettable stay at this most special of hospitality addresses.

A night in a Royal Suite at The Silo Hotel in March 2020 costs ZAR 70,000 including taxes and breakfast. ➤ www.theroyalportfolio.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

107

YEARS AFTER CUTTING OFF P R I N C E S S D I A N A’ S H A I R A N D S T Y L I N G M O R E T H A N 10 0 VO GU E C OV E R S , S A M MC K N IGH T I S ST I L L AT T H E TOP OF H IS GA M E. T H E CU LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R H A S A Q U I C K C H A T W I T H T H E C EL EBR AT E D H A I R ST Y L I ST

5

MINUTES WITH

sam mcknight ➸

How did you come into hairdressing? Purely by

accident. I was training to become a teacher but hated it and dropped out. Then I started working for friends who owned a salon in Prestwick, Scotland, where I was brought up. I did odd jobs around the salon and that’s how I started.

The moment you fell in love with hair?

When I saw David Bowie on TV with orange hair. I was 16.

When did you realise that hairdressing was to be your career and was there a defining moment? When I moved to

London in the 70s aged 19. I joined the team at Molton Brown hair salon on South Molton Street. That’s where I really absorbed the technical side of hairdressing. I met Kerry Warn, who introduced me to session styling, and I did my first Vogue shoot in 1977.

108

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

By the end of the 70s I was solely a session stylist.

Whose hairdressing work did you most admire in the 80s? Leonard Lewis, who

launched Twiggy’s career by creating her radical crop, and Kerry Warn, best known for his movie work including The Great Gatsby.

What part of the industry did you most enjoy as a young hairdresser?

The magazine shoots. The thrill of seeing my work published still amazes me today.

INTERVIEW

Princess Diana was lovely, funny and always a complete pleasure to work with Above left: Sam McKnight and Princess Diana; Left: Tilda Swinton; Below: Claridge’s, London

What was the pivotal moment in your career? Moving to New York in 1982

and starting to work with Vogue US and others.

Who introduced you to Princess Diana?

French fashion photographer Patrick Demarchelier and Anna Harvey from British Vogue. Princess Diana was lovely, funny and always a complete pleasure to work with.

Which would you say were your most career-defining hairstyles? My work

with Princess Diana, Tilda Swinton, Lady Gaga and the supermodels of the 80s. Plus, of course, my countless collaborations with Kate Moss.

How have you seen fashion shows change in the past 30 years? The

sheer scale of the shows has increased astronomically. The number of people attending or tuning-in, the intensity and the ease of accessibility backstage.

Fashion shows have become global events with massive reaches.

Who cuts your hair? I visit a small barber

shop on Queensway in London, which I have been going to for the past twenty odd years.

Do you have an in-flight routine?

PICTURE CREDIT

I always take a book and wear loosefitting clothes. For me, it’s all about being comfortable and relaxed on board a plane. I’ve also had my luggage go missing a few times over the years, so I have learnt (the hard way) to have mini travel size toiletries in my hand luggage.

Left: Costa Rica; Right: Fendi Couture Fall/ Winter 2019-2020

Name a talented hair stylist to look out for? Eamonn Hughes Your most memorable vacation of the last decade? Having spent years only

taking holidays in August – when all the fashion folk stop and head to their chosen islands in Europe – a few years ago I flew to Costa Rica in January!

It was incredible. Sharing the beach with monkeys in trees.

Zip-lining through cloud forests.

Visiting Costa Rica prompted me to reconsider how I travel for personal enjoyment, and since then I travelled to Sri Lanka, Cambodia, Vietnam and most recently, Mexico.

Your favourite hotel in the world and why? I have had

the pleasure of staying in some of the world’s most

beautiful hotels, but my favourite is close to home. For me, Claridge’s has always been the epitome of old-world luxury. I used to work on South Molton Street, and a big treat was to have Sunday breakfast at Claridge’s with friends.

I’ve had a very memorable birthday at Claridge’s Bar and the hotel’s afternoon tea is the ultimate treat.

Your most memorable fashion moment of 2019? The rather magical Fendi couture

show in Rome, which was set against the backdrop of the Coliseum, as the sun was setting in the middle of summer.

The models sported bespoke wigs, cut into 70s-inspired pageboy styles, coloured tonally to match their outfits.

What new hairstyles will we be seeing this year? The 90s revival is in full

swing including clean A-line bobs and long, straight and clean hair. ‘Cool Girl’ hair with ‘barely there’ texture.

And natural hair textures are being embraced and emphasized this year, so curls and afros are centre stage. ➤ www.sammcknight.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

109

SKY BRIEF T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R ’ S S E A S O N A L R O U N D - U P O F G L O B A L A I R T R AV E L N E W S

W O R L D ’ S L A R G E S T TWIN - EN GIN ED PA S S E N G E R J E T TA KES FLIGH T

➤

DESIGNED TO CARRY more than 400 passengers, the world’s longest and largest twin-engine jet, Boeing’s 777-9X, successfully took to the skies for its maiden flight earlier this year, offering a ray of hope for the troubled American manufacturer, following a year of dreadful publicity in the wake of the crashes that resulted in the worldwide grounding of its 737MAX series.

With a range of more than 8,000 nautical miles and a projected operating cost per seat lower than any other commercial aircraft, the 777-9X

110

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

is expected to become one of Boeing’s key offerings in the years to come. Since the 7779X’s carbon-fibre wings are longer than most other aircraft – adding to its ability to fly higher, faster and more economically - the plane features distinctive folding wingtips. A first for a passenger jet, its folding wingtips enables the 777-9X to be comfortably accommodated by airports. Other features include 20 per cent larger windows, a lower pressurisation altitude to reduce jet lag and a wider cabin.

➤ www.boeing.com

J APAN ’S PASSPORT IS TH E WOR LD’S BEST PL A N E T E A RT H ’ S FIR ST SPACE TO U R I S T S T O L I F T OFF SOON

➤

TECHNOLOGY EXPERTS PREDICT that Virgin Galactic – part of British billionaire Sir Richard Branson’s Virgin empire – will be the first of the three, main space tourism players to commercially fly tourists into space. While the company has been selling 90-minute flights to suborbital space for a decade and a half - for USD 250,000 per seat - and some customer have already sought refunds, it is looking increasingly likely that mere mortals will finally be suiting-up to travel beyond the Earth’s atmosphere later this year on SpaceShipTwo. Last summer, Virgin Galactic kicked-off its Astronaut Readiness Program. And in October 2019, the company theatrically revealed its sleek, high-tech spacesuits, designed with partner Under Armour, which its customers will get to walk away in as keepsakes of their flights. Since things seem to be hotting-up at Virgin Galactic’s spaceflight headquarters, Spaceport America in the Mojave Desert, watch this space!

➤ www.virgingalactic.com

➤

EVERY YEAR, HENLEY & PARTNERS looks at passports issued by 199 countries and ranks them according to the number of foreign destinations their holders can travel to without a visa. According to the 2019 Henley Passport Index, Asian countries continue to dominate the world rankings and Japanese citizens currently hold the strongest passport on the planet, followed

by Singapore and South Korea. But it seems that the Japanese are less interested in visiting the 190 countries they can travel to visa-free or obtain a visa on arrival, since only 23 per cent of them hold passports.

Perhaps a sign that the nation has become increasingly introverted, even the number of Japanese students studying overseas has fallen and, given the size of its economy and population, relatively few Japanese work for international organisations. In fact, the proportion of Japanese nationals in possession of a passport is the lowest among the Group of Seven industrialised nations, which seems a bit strange in this era of growing globalisation!

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

111

SINGAPORE’S CHANGI NAMED WORLD’S BEST AIRPORT

LUFTH AN SA UN VEILS N EW BUSIN ESS CLASS

➤ ➤

COSTING WELL OVER USD one billion and opening last year, Jewel is the latest addition to Singapore Changi and no doubt one of the reasons why the world-renowned airport was named the world’s best for the seventh consecutive year by Skytrax. Designed by Safdie Architects, the distinctive dome-shaped structure houses a mix of retail, leisure, garden and hotel offerings, as well as airport operations. Open to both the general public and transit passengers, and connected directly with Terminal 1 as well as Terminals 2 and 3 via bridges, at the center of Jewel’s glass and steel roof is an oculus through which water is channelled to the building’s centre, creating a stunning 40 metretall “Rain Vortex” feature. The world’s largest indoor waterfall, it transforms into a sound and light show after dark.

Directly underneath Jewel’s sparkling roof, a sprawling 14,000 sqm “Canopy Park” features everything from mazes and garden trails to giant slides and bouncing nets.

➤ www.jewelchangiairport.com

112

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

THE LAUNCH CUSTOMER FOR BOEING’S NEW 777-9X, over the next five years, Germany’s national carrier Lufthansa will take delivery of twenty of the aircraft. Lufthansa has used this opportunity to completely revamp its business class offering, not to mention do away with first class completely, the latter being a trend among European airlines. Each 2.2 metre lie-flat seat in Lufthansa’s new business class will feature direct aisle access and, unusually, rows alternating between a 1-1-1 and 1-2-1 layout, providing for a more spacious cabin overall. This configuration can accommodate solo business travellers in the window seats, couples in the middle and families in a whole row. The seat to book is the one in the middle of a 1-1-1 row, for the large amount of personal space on either side! ➤ www.lufthansa.com

SKY BRIEF

I B E RIA S H O WS N EW U N I FOR MS AT MADR ID FA S HION W E EK

➤

Born in Barcelona, Teresa Helbig spent her childhood surrounded by fabrics in her mother’s haute couture workshop, where she acquired a taste for detail and perfectionism. This, along with her natural creativity and passion for innovation, make her one of Spain’s top fashion forces today and prompted the country’s national carrier, Iberia, to recruit her to designer the airline new uniforms. Set to hit the aisles in the sky from May 2020, Helbig’s designs for Iberia include more than twenty items of clothing and accessories, ranging from dresses, suits and overcoats, to handbags, scarves and neckties.

Choosing colours that best represent the brand and spirit of the airline, Helbig’s predominantly navy-hued collection is accented with bright pings of red and yellow – Iberia’s brand colours – as well as a hint of beige to convey elegance. ➤ www.iberia.com

P I O N E E R I N G J ETFUEL S U P P L E M E N TS FEATUR ED O N N E T- A - P O RTER

➤

CREATED WITH 56 ACTIVE ingredients that offer specific health benefits to fight travel fatigue, pioneering JetFuel travel supplements are thoughtfully grouped into three categories – Health, Performance, and Rest – with each formula helping to balance the six health functions most affected by flying: immunity, digestion, circulation, energy, cognitive function and sleep. Available in sachets of powder for dissolving in water, as well as high-quality tea infusions, JetFuel has been proven to support frequent flyers through ungodly-hour flights and gruelling schedules to ensure that they perform better while travelling and feel much less exhausted when returning home. And, since JetFuel is 100 per cent free of GMO, sugar, fillers and preservatives, it’s all good for you! ➤ www.15thdegree.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

113

A H I D D E N E C O I S L A N D PA R A D I S E IN SOUTHERN THAILAND

alone on koh G O L D E N S A N D , T R O P I C A L S AVA N N A H , I D Y L L I C W I L D E R N E S S A N D F I F T Y S H A D E S O F WA R M WA T E R G R E E T A L E X B E N A S U L I O N A U N IQ U E LY U N S P O I LT T H A I I S L A N D F R I N GE D BY T H E A N DA M A N S E A ➤

114

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

D E S T I N AT I O N NO SHOES REQUIRED

phra thong T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

115

B

ELIEVE IT OR NOT, there still exist on our planet pockets of great natural beauty that have been relatively untouched by civilisation, let alone tourism.

The island of Koh Phra Thong – a little north of Khao Lak, on Thailand’s Andaman coast – is one such place. A go-to destination for anyone looking to truly escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, Hollywood could not have dreamt up a more perfect setting for a dessert island vacation. And what’s more, it doesn’t cost the earth to visit.

Koh Phra Thong means Golden Buddha Island in Thai.

Legend has it that centuries ago, a priceless golden statue of a buddha fell into the hands of marauding pirates, who buried it on Koh Phra Thong. No one knows what became of the buddha but the name obviously stuck, and today it is the island’s sands that shimmer like gold.

Not only the antithesis of the busy tourist circuit of Thai

beach resorts but also a world apart from the rest of Southeast Asia, Koh Phra Thong feels genuinely remote and unspoiled.

So, somewhat unsurprisingly, getting to the island requires a degree of time and effort.

A drive of roughly three hours north of Phuket, while Koh Phra Thong is only 40 kilometres from bustling Khao Lak, it takes a few different modes of transport to get there. Saying that, the drive from Phuket takes you past ribbons of coastline and undulating jungle-covered mountains, with the scenery gradually becoming more rural. And a real sense of adventure is palpable once aboard a traditional longtail boat for the 1½ hour crossing from Khura Buri bound for Koh Phra Thong.

Within minutes of setting off, the port and its rag-tag collection of fishing boats disappear out of view, as do most signs of human life, since much of the surrounding area is made-up of untouched national parks. The crossing takes you past smaller islands ringed by sand bars, mangrove forests and

116

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

NO SHOES REQUIRED KO H P H R A T H O N G

Right: Golden Buddha Beach Resort

coastal vegetation. Flying fish, sea turtles and the occasional pod of dolphins are all part of the delicate marine eco system that make the area such a special place for nature lovers.

Bearing a striking resemblance to those found in Africa, Koh Phra Thong’s tropical savannah is unique in Thailand since it’s the country’s only such habitat. While you won’t see tigers roaming its grassy expanses, wild boar, monkeys, pythons, otters and leopard cats are indigenous to Koh Phra Thong, as are endangered sambar deer and Sunda pangolin, not to mention a multitude of carnivorous plants. Sambar thrive on the island due to the absence of their natural predators.

Dry rolling grassland scattered with shrubs, isolated trees, scrub forests and watering holes cover a large part of the 88 square kilometers of pancake-flat island. Listed as an Important Bird Area by Bird Life International, with well over 100 bird species calling Koh Phra Thong home, also makes the island one of Thailand’s foremost birdwatching destinations for ornithologists and leisure birders alike.

Amongst the distinctive species often sighted are the Malaysian pied hornbill (one of the smallest Asian hornbills) and the great hornbill. The latter can have a wingspan of up to 1½ metres. Koh Phra Thong is also one of the last places on the planet you can see the endangered lesser adjutant stork in the wild, which continue to thrive on the island due to a distinct ➤

118

ISSUE 28 ➤ DECEMBER 2019 – FEBRUARY 2020

lack of human interference.

While such a plethora of wildlife makes Koh Phra Thong a naturalist’s paradise, its seemingly endless and unspoiled beaches are a paradise of a different kind. Almost always deserted pristine golden sands, fringed by swaying coconut palms, make Koh Phra Thong’s beaches a vacationer’s dream, especially for those looking to completely reboot.

While there is no such thing as five-star luxury on Koh Phra Thong, Golden Buddha Beach Resort is almost certainly the island’s premium accommodation option and undoubtedly its best located. Built on the edge of a national park bordering a sheltered bay on the Andaman sea, its collection of twentyeight rustic-chic wooden cabins and tree houses – ranging from simple one-bedroomed seafront baans to more elaborate, canopied garden lodges – are universally designed in a traditional Thai style which is easy on the eye and function well. All are positioned within no more than eighty metres of a beach. Fifteen are on the seafront. Many are secluded by lush gardens offering excellent privacy. Whichever you choose, the twelve kilometres of beach upon which the resort sits must surely be one of the most spectacular stretches of sand on the planet. ➤ www.goldenbuddharesort.com TO BE ABLE TO LITERALLY ROLL OUT OF BED, walk barefoot across the sand and be in the warm water within seconds is priceless, especially of a morning when the birds are singing.

For much of the day, I am the only person on the beach

and there is no noise except that of the gently lapping waves.

Save for the occasional fishing boat bobbing around far out at sea, there is also little sign of civilisation to pollute the serene setting. And serene it truly is – straight out of a movie.

As the honey-coloured sand changes tone through the day, little hermit crabs scurry across the beach leaving behind patterns in the wet sand like artworks. Trees gently swaying provide ample shade under which to lounge for hours. During low tide, the dramatically receding sea reveals sandbars and the mini wave breaks are multitudinous. To stay at Golden Buddha is to experience raw, unfiltered beach nature at its tranquil best, all day long.

If you fancy a mini adventure, you don’t have to travel far from your lodgings to experience the island’s incredibly ➤ Top: Golden Buddha Beach Resort; Left: a dawn safari

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

119

diverse ecosystem. Known as “golden grassland” in Thai and located in the middle of the island, Koh Phra Thong’s savannah houses numerous animal species and a dawn safari is the best time to see it, when some of its mostly nocturnal wildlife is still semi-active. Characterised by clutches of Melaleuca trees and long grasses everywhere, during the rainy season, the savannah’s large, flat fields become wetlands, which is an important habitat for the island’s diverse range of fauna.

GOOD EYES OR A PAIR OF BINOCULARS ARE ALL YOU need to appreciate Koh Phra Thong’s rich avian population. As well as storks and hornbills, all kinds of eagles, herons, egrets and woodpeckers are on display, cruising the skies, perched on branches and swooping down into the marsh land. It may not have the drama of an African safari, but those who appreciate its unique and fragile eco system will not be disappointed.

Breakfast is served in absolute stillness in a shady spot by a freshwater pool.

If you are planning to see sambar deer, you will probably need to venture into the savannah at night, on foot, because vehicles tend to scare the exceptionally jumpy animals. Mature sambar are large – with males growing up to two metres long and weighing a few hundred kilos – so don’t attempt to get close if you happen to come across a fully-grown animal!

Mangrove forests play a key role in supporting the island’s ecosystem and the east and southeast of Koh Phra Thong are dominated by 36 square kilometres of them. Providing a place for juvenile fish and crustaceans to flourish and acting as a filter

120

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

NO SHOES REQUIRED KO H P H R A T H O N G

Koh Phra Thong’s tropical savannah

for terrestrial run-off, Koh Phra Thong’s pristine mangroves are essential to maintaining the eco equilibrium of the beautiful island.

Tourists can take a kayak tour through the mangrove swamps with a local guide, spot many different types of sea bird and see the island’s clever macaques, which catch crabs and use stones to smash them open to eat. For those wishing to stay closer to home, Golden Buddha will loan you a free kayak to potter around in the resort’s bay or row the short distance across to the two Pling islands of Koh Pling Lek and Koh Pling Yai, which are notable for their fringing reefs ideal for snorkeling.

Across the bay from Golden Buddha, just 15 minutes away by speed boat, Ko Ra’s hilly rainforest terrain is perfect for some moderate jungle trekking and a local guide will point out butterflies, frogs, spiders and a whole range of fascinating insects indigenous to the island.

Yoga can be perfect to relax and wind-down before an evening, and a complimentary, daily late afternoon class at the resort includes meditation and breathing to rebalance after a day of adventuring.

After a hearty meal at the resort’s club house, a walk along the beach may be all that’s required to prompt a deep, restful sleep with just the sound of the waves for company. If spending time on a truly unspoiled island appeals, with a pristine beach metres away from your bed and a precious ecological environment close-by to explore, drop anchor on Koh Phra Thong for a week and experience southeast Asia like you have never seen it before. ➤ ww.tourismthailand.org

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

121

LOŠINJ ISLAND

➤CROATIA

croatia’s near-pristine vitality isle RENOW N ED AS A N ISLA N D OF WELLNESS, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU EXPLORES NEAR-PRISTINE LOŠINJ AND DIVE S IN TURQUOISE SEAS, E X P L O R E S R U G G E D S C E N E R Y, F E A S T S O N F R E S H LY C AU G H T F I S H A N D E N J O Y S T H E WA R M E S T OF C ROAT I A N W E L C OM E S

122

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

D E S T I N AT I O N T R AV E L L E R LOW D OW N

T

HE LARGEST IN THE ADRIATIC SEA and the second largest in the Mediterranean (after Greece), Croatia’s archipelago of more than 700 islands and almost 400 islets, not to mention and 78 reefs, offers everything from deserted beaches, unspoilt nature, skinny dipping and back-to-basics camping, to high-end resorts, boutique hotels, fine dining and all-night partying.

Situated in the northern Adriatic – between the Istrian peninsula in the north and North Dalmatia in the south – Kvarner and Primorje is a coastal region which includes the town of Rijeka, the touristic riviera of Crikvenica, Vinodol and Opatija and the islands of Cres, Krk, Pag, Rab and Lošinj.

Each of the hundreds of islands in Croatia’s archipelago are characterised by their own, personal micro-identities. Located in the central northern Adriatic, at the mouth of the gulf of Kvaerner, a mere stone’s throw from Italy, Lošinj island has been luring visitors for centuries for a variety of reasons.

Almost uninhabited until the middle of the 13th century, ➤

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

123

by the turn of the 19th century, Lošinj had developed into a leading regional maritime power. The island’s five-mile natural harbour became the second most important shipping hub in the Adriatic, immediately after Trieste. And the islanders were not only known for their skilfulness in the construction of sailing ships, but were also renowned seamen.

The curative effects of Lošinj’s near-perfect climate, crystalline seas and air infused with the scent of hundreds of native plant species make it a supremely healthy destination, year-round. This was first recognised by Ambroz Haračić, a 19th century botanist. By analysing its sunshine, humidity, temperature and latitude, Haračić established that the island’s climate was near-perfect and in 1892, Lošinj was proclaimed a climatic health resort by a Ministry of Health decree. When word reached Emperor Franz Josef, his highness packed his bucket, spade and mistress for Lošinj. Some weeks later, the Emperor returned to Vienna detoxed and fit. Thereafter, Lošinj became the Emperor’s preferred holiday resort and the AustroHungarian aristocracy built numerous villas and summer residences on the island.

Mali Lošinj

124

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

Boutique Hotel Alhambra

T R AV E L L E R LOW D OW N LOŠINJ ISL AND

Restaurant Alfred Keller

Known today as an ‘island of wellness and vitality’, I fly to Zagreb from where I board a small private plane for the 40-minute flight to Lošinj’s tiny airstrip. Of course, it’s less costly to travel from Croatia’s capital via road and ferry via Krk to Lošinj.

CIRCLING LOŠINJ AT LOW ALTITUDE, just as the sun begins to set, I see the island in all of its natural splendour below me, including its indented coastline and countless bays, and the memories of my journey instantly melt away.

Surrounded by crystal clear turquoise seas and being relatively obscure and unspoilt, Lošinj offers a classic Adriatic setting in a near-pristine state. As I step off the plane, the exceptionally clean air is the first thing I notice, before I am whisked away for the short drive to Boutique Hotel Alhambra. Being just 31 kilometres long and under 5 kilometres wide, nothing is too far away on Lošinj.

Perched on the edge of beautiful Čikat Bay, surrounded by an idyllic scented forest by the sea, Lošinj’s most luxurious hotel is housed within two Mediterranean-style villas designed in the early 20th century by Austrian architect Alfred Keller.

A contemporary, new building stylishly fuses Alhambra’s architecturally old and new and links them subterranea. While the new building is modern, slick and modish, the majestic villas are notable for their ornate façades, plasterwork and filigree balconies. Rooms and suites are luxe and offer every conceivable modcon. My corner lodgings in the main villa ➤

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

125

Veli Lošinj

overlooking the water, provide a spectacular vista of the bay and beyond, and every morning I make time to breakfast al fresco on my bijou balcony. The first evening, I feast on the fresh local catch at the hotel’s onsite fine dining Restaurant Alfred Keller and get an early night.

Konoba Cigale

126

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

A HEAVILY WOODED ISLAND – with its two main historic towns of Mali Lošinj and Veli Lošinj ringed by fragrant pine forests - the vegetation on Lošinj is lush and intensely varied and on my first day I rent a quad bike to explore it. There’s nothing like jumping on a squad to discover an island, without a map and just seeing where the day takes you, so that’s exactly what I do. For those who prefer to walk or cycle, there are 250 kilometres of trails and paths on Lošinj, and exploring the island at ground level offers an up-close-and-personal opportunity to meet the 1100 plant species and 230 medicinal herbs that thrive on the island. Its wild coastline also yields a myriad of natural surprises along the way.

Atop the hill that forms the mass of the southern part of the island – which is fringed by numerous deserted bays – I pause to absorb the incredible panoramas on both sides and then continue south along the spine of the island until the road begins to plunge downwards. At this end of Lošinj, I stop to take in the magnificent seascape of the neighbouring island of Ilovik and the northern tip of the Kornati labyrinth. The scene before me is utterly breathtaking.

That evening I dine al fresco at Konoba Cigale, shaded by pine forests overlooking the sea on the edge of Čikat Bay. My dinner of monkfish carpaccio and fresh octopus is excellent. ➤ www.losinj-hotels.com/en ➤

NO SHOES REQUIRED

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

127

THE NEXT DAY, A SMALL BOAT SPEEDS ME through the calm seas surrounding Lošinj to visit some of the many tranquil, uninhabited islands which surround Lošinj. We drop anchor off the coast of two or three, where I jump off the boat into crystal clear waters and pick shells off deserted beaches.

As we criss-cross the Adriatic, we spot a small school of Bottlenose dolphins in the sea. An endangered species, around 100 of them live in the waters around Lošinj.

Overgrown with oleanders, roses and eucalyptus trees, Ilovik is known as the ‘island of flowers’. The southernmost inhabited island of the Lošinj archipelago, we moor the boat at Restaurant Dalmatinka, where we tuck into simply prepared sea bass freshly caught by the owners. ➤ www.restoran-dalmatinka.com/en

To be on Lošinj and not indulge in a spa treatment would be criminal, so I amble a few hundred metres along the waterside path from the Alhambra, to the sprawling, multifaceted spa clinic at the Bellevue hotel. Filling the entire ground floor of the 206-room property, the facilities include indoor and outdoor pools, steam rooms and saunas, countless treatment rooms, couples’ suites and yoga and cross-fit studios. It’s an impressive spa and my Valmont facial leaves my skin feeling rejuvenated and looking radiant. ➤ www.losinj-hotels.com/en

Ilovik Island

128

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

T R AV E L L E R LOW D OW N LOŠINJ ISL AND

ON DAY THREE, I HEAD OUT to investigate Lošinj’s charming harbour towns, which are blissfully free of overtourism (for now). On the way, I pass lovely little villages, ancient Roman ruins, quaint hamlets of traditional stone houses and grand villas which hark back to Lošinj’s 19th century heyday when the island was a major shipbuilding center and a destination for Europe’s elite. I stroll around the lovely port towns of Mali Lošinj and Veli Lošinj, the architectural appearance of which have apparently changed little in the past few hundred years.

Devoted to the single, larger-than-life Greco-Roman statue of a handsome young athlete, which dates back to 1st or 2nd century BC, the small Museum of Apoxyomenos in Mali Lošinj weaves a fascinating narrative around this uniquely charismatic piece of bronze and is worth checking-out.

Čikat Bay

➤ www.muzejapoksiomena.hr/en

The Croatian Apoxyomenos

For a small island, there is plenty to do on Lošinj and I am both rejuvenated and culturally satiated after four days on the divine Croatian idyll. Whilst I would have been quite happy if I had never moved from my balcony at the Alhambra, I enjoyed a little bit of the best of everything Croatia has to offer, in the most beautiful and unspoilt of island packages. ➤ www.visitlosinj.hr

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

129

luxing lake 130

ISSUE 2 9 ➤ MA RCH – MAY 2020

D E S T I N AT I O N SPOTLIGHT

on como

D

OES LIFE GET ANY BETTER than skimming across the azure waters of Lake Como, in the warm October sunshine, on a classic Italian speedboat? I am aboard “Ruy”, one of Grand Hotel Tremezzo’s private launches, crossing Italy’s most glamorous lake. Just an hour by car from Milan and I’ve stepped into a bedazzling world of stunning architecture and exquisite nature with a healthy dash of Italian chic. I am almost certainly in one of the most beautiful spots in Europe.

ALEX BENASU LI R E DI S C OV E R S T H AT OL D S C HO OL I TA L I A N GLAMOUR NEVER GOE S O U T O F FA S H I O N A N D A F E W DAY S O F L A D OL C E V I TA N E V E R FELT SO GOOD

Lake Como sits at the foot of the snow-covered Alps surrounded by verdant, forested hills and dotted with sumptuous villas, elaborate gardens and picturesque towns.

Not only is the area visually stunning, but it is also a haven for foodies, culture aficionados and wildlife enthusiasts. Outdoor playgrounds do not get better much than this and it’s not hard to see why the lake has enchanted visitors since before Roman times.

Reminiscent of an inverted Y, with 160 kilometres of undulating shoreline, Lake Como is the result of glacial melting combined with the erosive action of ancient River Adda. From the water, palace-like mansions and gardens that would be ➤

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

131

Above and right: Villa Del Balbianello;

concealed from the road reveal themselves like precious gems, one more beautiful than the next, with their own intriguing backstories and unique charms.

Villa del Balbianello, located in the charming hamlet of Lenno, is almost certainly one of the region’s most breathtaking estates. If you were thinking that this late 18th century palazzo – fringed by towering cypress trees, manicured gardens and steps cascading down to the water – would make the perfect movie set, you would not be the first. Some scenes for the James Bond movie Casino Royale were filmed here, as were some for Star Wars: Episode II – Attack of the Clones. In many ways, these two cinematic titans sum up the effect that Lake Como has on most people – sophisticated, glamorous, fantastical and ethereal.

For those with time, it’s worth spending a few hours

132

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

exploring Villa del Balbianello’s beautiful grounds, which can be accessed from the shoreline on Tuesdays and the weekends.

The lush gardens and ornate balustrading, separating the terraces from the lake, are simply divine. Before being transferred to Italy’s equivalent of the National Trust in 1988, the villa was owned by industrialist and explorer Count Guido Monzino. Countless artifacts and treasures gleaned from Monzino’s far flung expeditions fill the villa’s magnificent interiors. ➤ fondoambiente.it TYPICAL OF THE TOWNS AROUND THE LAKE AND halfway down Como’s western side is Tremezzo, home to Villa Carlotta. Occupying a prime lakefront perch and built on a series of hillside terraces, the views from the villa and its grounds are extraordinary. Though named after a Prussian

SPOTLIGHT LAKE COMO

princess, for whom the villa was a wedding gift in 1847, Villa Carlotta dates back to the mid-1700s. While the interiors impress and the museum section houses some historical and noteworthy paintings and sculptures, it is the expansive gardens and park-like grounds that truly enamour.

While in front of the villa orchards are gracefully connected by pergolas, a world-famous collection of rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias dominates behind the property, making spring the best time to visit. One can spend as little as 15 minutes getting a feel for the gardens or many hours exploring the 20-acre grounds, enjoying its plethora of private corners, not to mention the perfectly framed views of the lake and beyond. ➤ villacarlotta.it Directly across the lake from Tremezzo is Bellagio, fondly known as the ‘Pearl of Lake Como’. Strategically positioned ➤

Bellagio

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

133

between the two southernmost branches of the lake, although Bellagio’s beauty has been chronicled for almost two millennia, it wasn’t until the Lombard aristocracy built beautiful villas here in the 18th and 19th centuries that the village’s desirability became entrenched. Today, visitors flock to its lakefront, café-filled arcade and the picture-postcard tangle of narrow, cobblestoned streets filled with rose coloured buildings and charming eateries.

FROM THE CENTRE OF BELLAGIO, FACING THE LAKE, walk left along the water to Villa Melzi. The villa’s lakefront gardens are a welcome respite from busy Bellagio in the summer. Completed in 1810, privately owned Villa Melzi is a perfect example of neoclassical architecture. A formal lakeside path – lined with plane trees pruned into an umbrella-like canopy in a Napoleonic style – provides abundant shade from the heat. Sculptures dating back to a number of historical periods punctuate the setting. Unusually for Lombardy, the terraced parts of the villa’s grounds showcase a traditional Asian aesthetic, with ponds and water features framing prominent trees and verdant sight lines. The views across the lake towards villages, hills and higher alpine scenery beyond are mesmerising. ➤ giardinidivillamelzi.it Horticulturalists will almost certainly want to explore more than 18 kilometres of avenues and paths that wind through 15th century Villa Serbolloni Park’s splendid gardens. A 50acre hilltop estate, boasting expansive views over both sides of the lake, since 1959 the Rockefeller Foundation has run the villa as a retreat and think tank for artists and scientists from all over the world. Past visitors include Leonardo da Vinci, Emperor Maximillian I and Queen Victoria. Today, its ➤ Top: Bellagio; Centre and right: Villa Melzi

134

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

dine with us. stay with us

nobuhotelloscabos.com

Left: Cernobbio; Below: Como Cathedral

gardens are home to a number of rare and exotic plants crowned by a summer house offering a shady perch to enjoy the tremendous views. ➤ bellagiolakecomo.com On the northern tip of Bellagio, at the base of the Rockefeller complex, is popular restaurant La Punta, which offers classic yet somewhat refined Italian fare with an emphasis on local fish. Its lake facing terrace, with the views over the water towards the alps, is an idyllic spot for a smart yet relaxed lunch or early dinner. ➤ www.ristorantelapunta.it Bellagio’s legendary charms assure its year-round popularity.

In high season it can be a victim of its own success. So, a short boat ride away to the north is the quieter but equally ravishing village of Varenna, which was founded by local fishermen in the 8th century. From Varenna, look back towards Bellagio to the point where the two branches of Lake Como emanate.

With its cypress-lined avenues, ornate balustrading and neoclassical charms, Villa Monastero offers perfect vistas of the breathtaking surroundings. ➤ www.villamonastero.eu For more lofty views, it’s a moderate (and occasionally steep) hike up the hill behind Varenna to Castello di Vezio, which sits on hallowed grounds that have been built upon since before Christ. The views from the top are staggeringly beautiful and ever-present falcons circling above add a dash of majesty. ➤ www.castellodivezio.it

Villa Serbolloni

136

SPOTLIGHT LAKE COMO Varenna

BACK IN THE HISTORIC CENTRE OF TOWN, VECCHIA Varenna serves local dishes in a space that was formerly a 15th century marble workshop. The restaurant’s 15 tables are built on a terrace which is semi-suspended over the lake. It doesn’t get much more waterfront or romantic than this! ➤ www.vecchiavarenna.it For a touch of reality, head to the lake’s largest metropolis of Como. This thriving and bustling city is located at the southern tip of Lake Como and serves as the lake’s primary gateway.

Boasting an impressive gothic cathedral and a fairly sizable old walled city, brimming with bars, restaurants and shops, the combination of well-heeled locals and international tourists makes for a lively scene and offers a welcome contrast to the rarefied realm of villa and palazzo hopping!

To glimpse how the local movers and shakers roll (and feast on amazing pizza!) head to Ristorante in Teatro, which is next to Como’s jewel of a theatre and opera house. ➤ www. pizzeriaincentro.com . The hand crafted cocktails, low lighting and discreet seating at stylish Bar Hemingway make for a cheeky aperitivo or post dinner night cap. ➤ www.barhemingway.it Of course, the lake and its jaw dropping vistas are never far away. From Como, it is an easy 45 minute-walk or short bike ride along the elegant lakeside promenade to neighbouring Cernobbio. With one of the highest concentrations of 18th and 19th century villas and gardens of the entire area, Cernobbio is yet another opportunity to soak in the sublime

Castello Di Vezio

architectural richness of Lake Como.

Sitting on a park bench or a café terrace in dappled sun, gazing towards villa studded hills while watching boats zip toand-fro, is to be in a dream that one never wants to end. Time spent in and around Lake Como, whether on a boat or dry land, amidst such rich, visual splendour, is a cultured traveller’s heaven on earth. After days spent feeling like the star of my own personal movie, the timeless beauty of Lake Como will undoubtedly remain with me long after I have departed Lombardy back to reality.

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

137

G R AN D H OTEL T R E M E Z Z O TREMEZZINA, LAKE COMO, ITALY

➸

LAKE COMO HAS BEEN SEDUCING VISITORS since Roman times and before.

For much of the 18th and 19th centuries, European royals and the Lombardian aristocrats of northern Italy decamped to lavish lakeside villas for their summer holidays. It is with this spirit of refinement and luxury that Grand Hotel Tremezzo opened its doors more than a century ago.

While the property’s glamorous Belle Époque roots assure a style and level of discernment that is enchanting, it is its impressive array of resort-like facilities, executed to the highest standards, complete with impeccable service, that propel Grand Hotel Tremezzo to world-class luxury hospitality prominence.

Situated half-way up Como in Tremezzina, arguably the sunniest spot on the lake, the hotel’s waterfront position assures jaw dropping views from almost every angle and most guest rooms. There is hardly a more convenient spot on the lake to take full advantage of its numerous gems. Boat tours set off a stone’s throw from the hotel entrance and the public passenger ferry is a few hundred metres away. Villa Carlotta is but a few minutes’ walk from the hotel. At night, Bellagio’s twinkling lights, dancing against the

138

ISSUE 2 9 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

water, are directly across from Grand Hotel Tremezzo for its guests to enjoy.

Art nouveau accents are sprinkled throughout the hotel. Decadent, inlaid marble and exquisite multiwood parquet floors are offset by vibrant upholstery and ornate, palace-like detailing. Grand spaces and sprawling terraces boasting endless lake views are punctuated by countless nooks in which to rendezvous or lounge more privately. It is not easy to blend vintage palatial elegance with mystery, romance and contemporary 21st century nods, yet Grand Hotel Tremezzo achieves this with panache. The results are pure hospitality eye candy.

While some landmark properties might rest on past reputations of grandeur at the expense of investing in new facilities, this could not be further from the truth at Grand Hotel Tremezzo. For instance, there are not one, but three swimming pools to choose from.

Water-On-The-Water is a floating pool literally sitting in and surrounded by Lake Como. Edged by timber decking and connected to dry land by bridges, swimming in it is akin to being in the lake itself.

Behind the main building and sloping up the hillside are extensive private gardens and the serene Flowers

SPOTLIGHT

Pool. A veritable work of art, its clean, modern lines and contemporary mosaiced bottom provide a striking contrast to the classic elements which dominate elsewhere.

As if a Turkish bath, Mediterranean-themed steam room and a sauna were not enough, award-winning T-Spa boasts an indoor infinity pool with a wall of floor-to-ceiling windows opening onto a terrace bedecked with loungers afforded unobstructed views of Lake Como and the Alps beyond. Well-equipped fitness rooms also look onto the lake’s azure waters.

If it were not for the absolute splendour that is Lake Como and its gorgeous villas, charming towns and villages, you might be tempted to never leave Grand Hotel Tremezzo. But if you do, hop aboard one of the hotel’s two private launches and enjoy Lake Como’s many charms from the water. Either way, whether from the palatial surrounds of its regal interiors or the wooden deck of a classic Italian speedboat, Grand Hotel Tremezzo is everything a discerning traveller could ever wish for in a Como hotel and more. ALEX BENASULI

➤ www.grandhoteltremezzo.com

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

139

taste&sip OUR FOOD AND DRINK E X P E R T S T R AV E L T O COLOMBO, ZÜRICH AND BARCELONA

MINISTRY OF CRAB ➤ COLOMBO,

SRI LANKA

BAUR’S ➤ ZÜRICH,

SWITZERLAND

Spring Chicken Under A Brick Baur’s, Zürich

B A R C E L O NA’ S FOOD SCENE

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

141

taste &sip

ASHLEE S TA R R AT T DONS AN APRON AN D GRA BS SOME CRAB CRACKERS TO FIND OUT W H AT M A K E S T H E NAT ION ’ S M O S T FA M O U S EAT ERY T H E U LT I M AT E C EL EBR AT ION OF SRI LANKAN SEAFOOD

142

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

EXPE

MINISTRY OF CRAB ➤ COLOMBO, SRI LANKA

➸

Garlic chilli crab

THE INDIAN OCEAN has spilled its fresh bounty on the shores of Ceylon for many millennia. Offerings such as sprats, cuttlefish, prawn, and lobster the backbone of maritime offerings that find their way from net to table. But venture further inland, to the mangrove pools and fecund lagoons that punctuate the island of Sri Lanka, and you’ll find the elusive species that holds pride of place – Scylla serrata, the Sri Lankan mud crab.

In a nation replete with natural resources, to think that its most prized delicacy has practically become a scarcity on the island is met with raised eyebrows. But the staggering reality is that the bulk of catches of these succulent crustaceans are exported abroad to satiate the appetites of Singapore – sometimes up to a half tonne per day.

That being said, if there’s one thing that the Sri Lankan spirit is renowned for – it’s resilience. In the aftermath of the country’s 26-year civil war which began in 1983 and ended in 2009, the nation has jockeyed to find its centre once again in an attempt towards a fragile new unity – from the reclaiming of ancestral lands, to a resurgence of ➤

RIENCE T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

143

culinary tradition. More recently, the Easter 2019 bombings, which targeted high-end hotels and churches in Colombo and the east of the island, shook the nation to its very heart. But Sri Lanka is slowly recovering, albeit not as fast as the islanders would like.

Pepper crab

AT THE FOREFRONT OF the nation’s hospitality industry are chef Dharshan Munidasa and Ministry of Crab – the only restaurant on the island dedicated to the celebration of Sri Lankan mud crab. Culinary craftsman and storyteller, Munidasa brings Sri Lanka’s gastronomic tale to the plate at this award-winning restaurant, which he opened in 2011 with cricketing legends Kumar Sangakkara and Mahela Jayawardene and has since been repeatedly name-checked as one of Asia’s 50 Best.

Situated in the capital’s historic Old Dutch Hospital district – one of the oldest buildings in Colombo Fort –

Garlic chilli prawn

144

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

TA S T E & S I P

Culinary craftsman Dharshan Munidasa brings Sri Lanka’s gastronomic tale to the plate Dharshan Munidasa

Ministry of Crab’s location dates back to 1677 and the Dutch colonial era.

What was once the home of Colombo’s old apothecaries, the area was a hub for the Dutch East India Company and a stone’s throw from the harbour teeming with ships and heaving with trade.

Today it has gone through somewhat of a gentrification. While the original structure remains, once where seafarers and villagers trod among its cobbles, its open-air courtyards and alley-ways now swell with eclectic shops and restaurants, street music, art exhibitions and rooftop bars, that draw both tourists and Colombo’s upscale socialites alike.

With a prime location in the main, central courtyard of the Old Dutch Hospital, Ministry of Crab is packed with throngs of devotees at any given time of day, claw crackers in hand and decked out in ‘Keep Calm and Crab On’ aprons. Despite the lull after the Easter 2019 bombings, the restaurant offers multiple sittings every day to accommodate everyone.

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

145

taste &sip

N E WC O

146

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

BAUR’S ➤ ZÜRICH, SWITZERLAND

MER NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU VISITS A BUZ ZING N EW ZÜRICH GASTRONOMIC D E S T I NAT I O N , T H AT S K I L F U L LY COMBINES CHIC AND MODERN DE SIGN WITH COMFORT AND S OP H I ST ICAT ION I N A BR A S S E R I E

➸

UNTIL RELATIVELY RECENTLY, especially by comparison to the world’s other large financial centres, Zürich’s food scene wasn’t really worth discussing. You’d be right in thinking that it largely consisted of upscale and traditional restaurants only, few demonstrating much in terms of gastronomic imagination. Classic, yes. Inventive - definitely not. Today, however, things couldn’t be more different, for during the past few years, an influx of talented young chefs eager to make their mark, coupled with the revitalisation of Zürich-West, has seen Switzerland’s largest city emerge as one of Europe’s hottest new foodie destinations.

Whether eating a sausage on the street, sharing cheese fondue with ➤

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

147

Chateaubriand

friends, dining at the world’s first vegetarian restaurant or pushing the boat out with a meal at a Michelinstarred establishment (of which the city has about a dozen), the menus on offer around Zürich have never been more mouth-watering, and the choice is steadily growing to feed the demands of 1.5 million people who have gotten the taste for more interesting fare and exciting food concepts and want more.

Not satisfied with being home to The Pavilion – one of the city’s most elegant restaurants and holder of two Michelin stars – Zürich hospitality grande dame Baur Au Lac recently unveiled Baur’s, occupying the space formerly known as Rive Gauche, located just off Bahnhofstrasse.

THE EPITOME OF A CLASSIC brasserie re-imagined in a contemporary European style, Baur’s skilfully straddles chic and modern design with comfort and sophistication. Inspired by the history and iconography of Baur au

Roasted calamari

148

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

Lac and refreshing traditional brasserie styling with modern flare, Baur’s was fashioned by Martin Brudnizki Design Studio, which is internationally renowned for designing restaurants, private clubs and hotels over the last decade, many of which have redefined modern hospitality.

Offering a buzzier more lifestyleorientated alternative to Baur Au Lac’s time-honoured fine dining options, Baur’s’ thoroughly modern design aesthetic has been achieved by using a warm colour palette of burgundy red and soft green, blended with chic finishes and rich materiality to create an animated, happening ambience. There’s a distinct sense of occasion to visiting Baur’s, without even the slightest hint of stuffiness.

Having arrived via a rather grand marble staircase lined with graphic wallpaper, we land at a bar-lounge area where folks meet, sip cocktails and socialise. The atmosphere is bubbly and animated around a statement central bar, crafted from red marble and antique ➤

mirrors, which lends a central dash of glamour to the proceedings. We position ourselves at the bar, order pre-dinner drinks and linger somewhat longer than planned, revelling in observing such a wide variety of characters in one place.

Oversized Murano glass chandeliers hang overhead. Cosseting bar stools, comfy armchairs and fabric wall panelling in red and gold tones contrast with timber detailing to deftly create a relaxed and intimate ambience that it’s hard to leave.

MOVING THROUGH TO THE spacious main room, which seats just 66, a combination of fixed leather banquette seating with button detailing and freestanding dining chairs with contrasting fabric finishes create a restaurant that warmly welcomes diners.

The perfect position from which to people watch, a central dining counter, made principally from marble and glass, is ideal for eating alone or having a swift, informal meal.

Overhead, an impressive decorative

150

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

lacquered ceiling with contrasting fabric inserts, offset by more large Murano chandeliers, creates a mood of warm grandeur throughout. Frosted glass panels subtly dividing tables instils a sense of intimacy in the room, whilst a mixture of low-level table lighting and ceiling lights enhances the cosy and familiar atmosphere. While a great deal of work obviously went into the highly detailed design, the overall effect is one of effortless comfort.

Capitalising on the vast array of fresh seasonal vegetables, meats and fish readily available locally, the unpretentious menu allows the region’s top-quality produce to shine. We kick-off with 50 grams of Prunier oscietra caviar (at a very reasonable CHF 82 on the menu) which is served with the usual blinis and condiments.

My Sole Meunière main is cooked to perfection, while my dining companion’s sepia linguine with lobster and Datterini tomatoes is moreishly divine. Every dish that comes out of the kitchen of chef de

Baked Alaska

TA S T E & S I P

Rum cake

cuisine Olivier Rais appears to be of the same high standard.

We wash the meal down with a bottle of 2018 Julien Brocard Chablis Premier Cru, selected from an extensive list put together by Baur au Lac’s awardwinning sommelier Marc Almert, who was recently named the world’s best.

You simply can’t beat a quality white burgundy!

Everything is delivered to our table by a distinctively affable and efficient team, helmed by charming restaurant manager Alessia Koch, who cut her teeth at Paco Perez’s very popular Cinco in Berlin.

Combined with world-class art liberally adorning its walls, the menu of classic dishes reimagined with 21st century culinary flair makes Baur’s the quintessential modern European brasserie, and dining within its splendid confines a wonderful gastronomic experience that will undoubtedly stand the test of time. ➤ www.baurs-zurich.ch/en

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

151

taste &sip

BARC EL A F L AV O U R FROM THE HUMBLE MARKET TO THE L OF T Y H EIGH T S OF M IC H E L I N STA R D OM , B A R C E L O N A’ S C U L I N A R Y L A N D S C A P E I S A C O L O U R F U L C A N VA S T H A T D E M A N D S T O BE EX PL OR ED. JOE MORT I M E R DI S C OV ER S T H E S E C R E T S O F T H I S F O O D I E PA R A D I S E

152

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

➸

ONA F I E S TA

PINCHED BETWEEN the ancient port of Tarragona and the riverside city of Girona, Barcelona is one of the greatest culinary destinations on the planet. The Catalonian capital was established along the north-eastern coast of Spain by the Romans just over 2,000 years ago. The city’s strategic location – surrounded by the teeming waters of the Mediterranean, the towering Pyrenees and the legendary French gastronomic landscape beyond – has provided an enormous influence on Barcelona’s epicurean identity.

Catalonia’s stretch of sun-kissed coast in northeastern Spain is home to some of the most influential chefs in Europe, not least renowned gastronomic names like Ferran and Albert Adrià (elBulli), Joan Roca (El Celler de Can Roca) and Jordi Cruz (ABaC), who have re-shaped gourmet trends around the world and had a major impact on the region’s own dining offering. But it is Barcelona itself that stands out for its sheer breadth of choice: a city known equally for its traditional tapas restaurants as for its ground-breaking modern dining, where the entire Spanish culinary cosmos is distilled into one flavoursome package.

Food is ubiquitous in this non-stop city, the second largest metropolitan area in Spain and home to some 5.5 million people, all of whom need constant feeding. Somewhere in Barcelona’s colourful history, food transcended the practical and became part of the city’s social fabric. Today, dining is a social occasion and here, ➤

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

153

El Born

people like to talk and eat and drink throughout the day, and long into the night if possible.

The story of its local cuisine begins in the market and Barcelona is home to dozens of them. The marketplace has been the spiritual and commercial heart of Barcelona since time immemorial.

From the tourist-packed aisles of La Boqueria on the edge of the Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter) and Mercat de Santa Caterina in trendy El Born, to smaller covered markets in residential neighbourhoods, el mercado is where many Barcelonés start their day.

Renovated in 2005 with flair by celebrated architects Enric Miralles and Benedetta Tagliabue, beneath the waveshaped multicoloured ceramics rooves of

154

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

Mercat de Santa Caterina, you will find everything from fruits, vegetables and flowers, to fish, meat and even a small supermarket. ➤ www.mercatsantacaterina.com It’s hard to imagine what Spanish markets would have looked like before tomatoes were brought back from the New World in the 16th century. Today, stalls are laden with mountains of the plump vegetables from all over the country, in myriad hues of red, yellow and green; the backbone of the Spanish larder. Stacked next to them are piles of ripe peppers, rows of chunky courgettes and heaps of vivid green beans. Mounds of ripe figs and fleshy grapefruits are placed next to stacks of juicy Valencia oranges and giant strawberries, while rows of cured meats and pungent

TA S T E & S I P

Mercat de Santa Caterina

sheep, cow and goats’ cheeses offer a smorgasbord of delights.

Stalls around the edge of the market sell gourmet snacks made from market produce: small plates of fresh seafood, marinated artichoke or cones of spicy chorizo – popular bites often found on bar menus known as pica pica, intended to accompany a glass of cava (Spain’s dry sparkling white wine) or vermut (sweet vermouth). The latter is the local aperitif and the ritual of enjoying a glass with pica pica and friends in the afternoon is as ingrained in society as ‘aperitivi’ in Italy. Swap the vermut for cava and you’re even closer to the ritual enjoyed

by Spain’s Roman descendants on the other side of the Mediterranean.

Tapas remains the core dining proposition in Barcelona; a general term that simply means small dishes designed for sharing; all fresh and handmade.

From succulent seafood plucked fresh from the Mediterranean (think cockles, mussels, oysters and octopus in lemon juice and olive oil) to staples like crunchy croquetas made with salty ham and creamy cheese, or fried potatoes (patatas bravas) served with tangy tomato sauce and potent aioli (made from garlic and olive oil); tapas covers the full portfolio found within the marketplace.

Porky products are the backbone of Barcelona’s casual dining landscape, at least when it comes to meat dishes, and Jamón Ibérico is king of them all. ➤

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

155

Somewhere in Barcelona’s colourful history, food transcended the practical and became part of the city’s social fabric Like wine, cheese, vinegar and olive oil, the production of Jamón Ibérico is controlled by Spain’s ‘Denominación de Origen’ classification system, which regulates which breeds and regions can be labelled Ibérico and divides them into four categories that determine quality.

IT’S THIS FASCINATION WITH quality and purity that led to what can only be described as a culinary revolution in Barcelona and the wider region, a dramatic shift in values led by one of the most influential chefs in history.

“Fifteen years ago, gastronomy in Barcelona was very much based on French cuisine, probably due to its proximity to France,” says Jose Sánchez, executive chef at Pullman Barcelona Skipper.

“But this changed with the emergence of elBulli. Ferran Adriá gave Catalan food a new dimension. He converted it into an experience. He transformed the visual presentation of the dishes and he emphasized the importance of local food, carrying Mediterranean cuisine to its highest point. He influenced all the chefs of the time and continues to do so today.”

Indeed, Barcelona now basks under a bright canopy of 25 Michelin stars, with chefs like Martin Berasategui, Carme Ruscalleda, Paco Pérez and the Torres brothers continuing to innovate with exceptional dining concepts; and the legendary Adriá brothers continuing the elBulli legend with elBarri, a collection of new venues led by Michelinstarred Tickets, which takes the traditional tapas menu and elevates it to the sublime.

Three things are immeasurably helpful when visiting Barcelona: a healthy appetite, a basic understanding of the Spanish language and the encyclopaedic knowledge of a master sommelier. The Catalan capital’s unique dining offerings, while exceptional

156

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

in their own right, are made all the more remarkable with the right liquid accompaniment. And while Barcelona’s culinary landscape may seem familiar, the world of Spanish wines, filled as it is with numerous grape varieties that are unfamiliar to the untrained nose, is best navigated with the help of a professional.

Chef Jose explains, “Although Spain is not a very large country, it is a very rich country culturally speaking, with very diverse traditions, and you may find very different wines from regions separated by less than 100 kilometres. Catalonia is one of these regions, with its own wines and its own traditions.

Ferran Adriá

TA S T E & S I P

Tickets

In Catalonia, we have 10 different Denominations of Origin, which are proud of their roots, proud of their grapes and proud of their idiosyncrasies.”

Cava is of course the most well-known Catalan wine, and arguably the closest relative to Champagne you’ll find outside northern France. Some 95% of all cava is produced in Catalonia, mostly in Penedès between Barcelona and Tarragona. But the distinctive Xarel-lo, Parellada and Macabeo grapes grown in the region also make quality still white wines.

In the absence of a professional sommelier, some combinations are accessible to all. Nestled among the narrow medieval streets of El Born neighbourhood, Bodega La Puntual is

a worthy stop on any investigation into the nuances of Barcelona cuisine.

Here, simplicity is everything. A plate of boquerones marinados (anchovies in vinegar) washed down with a chilled glass of cava is simply divine; the dry, acidic sparkling wine tearing through the salty, oily anchovies like a swordfish through the waves. Mop up the oil with a piece of pan con tomate – lightly toasted soda bread rubbed with fresh garlic and ripe tomato – and follow it up with a plate of heady, melt-in-the-mouth jamon ibérico, and you have the makings of truly unforgettable meal.

This is the fundamental character of dining in Barcelona: high-quality ingredients served in a straightforward manner, preferably paired with the right wine and some excellent company. The rest is just garnish.

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

157

158

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

M USIC & NIG HT LIFE

gloria estefan WIN N ER OF SEVEN GRAM M YS, WITH GLOBAL ALBUM SALE S I N E X C E S S O F 10 0 M I L L I O N, NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU C H AT S W I T H T H E OR IGI NA L L AT I N P OP IC ON

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

159

Your family was amongst the first wave of Cuban immigrants to flee the regime of Fidel Castro, for Miami. What do you remember about this time?

I was very young when we arrived in the States. My Dad had been a police officer in Cuba, so he knew the changes that were coming. He found us a place to live in Miami, near the Orange Bowl, close to all of my mom’s friends, who supported one another while the men fought in the Bay of Pigs invasion.

It was a little bit like living in a commune. We would get groceries and do laundry together. The women shared one car, which was bought for USD 50. When a hurricane struck, all the women and kids were holed up in our apartment, just in case something happened. So, from very early on, I learned a lot about camaraderie and the strength of women.

160

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

Who first influenced young Gloria musically?

I loved my mother’s records by Celia Cruz, Cachao, Olga Guillot, Javier Solis, Johnny Mathis, Dean Martin, Nat King Cole and Andy Williams, which were smuggled to us, from Cuba, by my maternal grandmother. I was very young, but I would listen to those records, stare at the album covers in awe and wonder how human beings could create such magical sounds.

When was the first time you performed on stage?

At my guitar teacher’s recital. I was about 10 years old. My mom got me a special dress, light blue tights and did my hair up. I was petrified! I sat on the stage (thankfully in a chair) playing my guitar. People went crazy when I started singing,

INTERVIEW

Believe it or not, I really don’t like being the centre of attention

but inside I was dying. Since it was the first-time I sung for anyone other than my family, it was incredibly difficult for me.

Believe it or not, I really don’t like being the centre of attention.

weekends. A friend wanted to put together a band, to play for the parents when they came back from one of these events and he asked me to be the singer. My friend’s father worked at the same place as Emilio, and suggested he should give us some pointers, since his band, the Miami Latin Boys, had just played for the mayor and was super successful. I remember Emilio brought his accordion and was wearing vee-rry short shorts. When he played it he looked like he was naked, because the accordion covered up his shorts. I was enthralled. I thought he was a lot older than me because he looked mature. I was 17 at the time – Emilio was 21.

How long did it take you to become comfortable performing?

A good 10 years, which is why I am so thankful for the experience of performing with the Miami Latin Boys (which later became Miami Sound Machine). I started in 1975. In 1985 everything exploded with Dr Beat and Conga. By that point, I had performed in front of audiences as small as one and as large as 100,000 in stadiums in Latin America, because we were very well known there before we crossed over into the American market. I realised I was incredibly shy, but knew it was very important for me to put my best foot forward.

Eventually, when I stepped on a stage, it became like stepping into my home.

Your unique blend of dance, salsa and pop not only took the Latin community by storm but also the world. Did this surprise you?

The strength of your partnership with and marriage to Emilio are legendary in the music industry. How did you first meet?

How did it feel to receive your first Grammy?

We first met in May 1975, when I was about to graduate high school. During senior year, our parents would have spiritual

Emilio and I were not at all surprised that our music worked so well in the States and around the world, because we had the best focus groups ever, which were the gigs we played in Miami. Miami is an incredibly international community and is very mixed culturally. Because we could play Latin music well, we became very successful in Miami. When we started adding our originals, things really took off, especially when we added Conga.

I was nominated six times before receiving my first Grammy!

What was very beautiful, is that I received it for Mi Tierra, which was a seminal album for us. If I had to choose just one ➤

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

161

album to stay behind in the world, that would be it, because it presented my culture to the world – my roots, the place where our Latin sound came from and the Anglo/Cuban mix which is who I am.

Why do you think so many people connect with your music?

I think it’s the rhythm, since we all have a very guttural and basic reaction to rhythm. When you throw down a song that people can move their bodies and dance to, it really breaks the ice, culture doesn’t come into it and the lyrics can be secondary.

What do you prefer to write songs about?

I have always tried to write about subjects that are human in nature: love, losing love and getting it back. I stay away from politics and religion. Although I have written some songs with a social commentary – talking about freedom of speech – I prefer music that bridges and unites. I have stayed away from political themes because music was my escape from all that.

I lived a very political life with my Dad, the Bay of Pigs invasion and Vietnam, and my music was an escape from those hard times.

You were at the height of your fame when your tour bus was involved in a major accident, you suffered massive injuries and were told you may spend the rest of your life in a wheelchair.

How did you get through this experience and were you able to

162

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

derive anything positive from it?

I derived a lot of incredibly beautiful experiences from the terrible accident, and from being paralysed. Number one: the power of prayer. I had literally millions of people all over the world praying for me and I can tell you that I felt like I was plugged into the wall and energised by those prayers. I absorbed them into my body, imagined and visualised them reconnecting my nerves. I didn’t know at the time, but this type of visualisation is used in the recovery of injured and ill people.

After the accident, my main aim was to do as much as I could to prevent my family going through what I went through with my Dad. I knew that if I had to face being in a chair, I would, but I did everything in my power to aid my recovery. Love, prayers and support got me through this tough period, and my husband, who didn’t leave my side for three months. My family and numerous people were part of my recuperation, as well as, ultimately, my music.

Tell us about the first single released after your accident,

INTERVIEW

my way, and so this is literally what Coming Out Of The Dark is about. It took us 15 minutes to write and was the first song I performed publicly after recovering.

The most memorable moment of your Miami Sound Machine days?

Coming Out Of The Dark.

On the day of the accident – as Emilio was in a helicopter and I was in the medevac – despite it being a grey day, a ray of light kept hitting him in the eyes, so he wrote down the words ‘coming out of the dark’. Three months later, he found the piece of paper, called Jon Secada and went to the studio. Because he knew that music had always been a healing force in my life, and he wanted to get me away from the constant rehab and focus on something positive, Emilio told me, “I would really love for you to come and work on this”. When I got to the studio, Emilio and Jon sang the melody and a couple of lines they had written. This feeling of incredible gratefulness washed over me, to everyone who had sent a good thought or a prayer

Stepping back on stage on 1 March 1991 – having broken my back, been paralysed and told that I may never walk again, much less get back on a stage. That night is the happiest I have ever been in my entire life. It was about regaining my life, it was about getting back my independence and it was about reclaiming what I was meant to do on this earth, which is entertain and sing. That night was also an example to people that, no matter what happens in your life, you can always fight your way back, even in the face of terrible odds. ➤

No matter what happens in your life, you can always fight your way back, even in the face of terrible odds T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

163

INTERVIEW

Is there anywhere in the world you would like to perform, where you haven’t already?

In a free Cuba. A free Cuba means a Cuba that holds free elections – where the Castro government is out of the picture.

A Cuba where people can choose their future; can choose their representatives; can choose which religion to follow and are not jailed for speaking freely. And a Cuba where I can sing about freedom of speech and not have to worry about speaking words on stage that may get me arrested or cause violence in the audience. I pray it will happen in my lifetime. The chances look slim at the moment, but I never lose hope that one day I can sing in my homeland.

Aside from your music, your business empire includes a football team, restaurants and hotels, and you also find time to publicly advocate against repression, defend human rights and fight against violence. How do you juxtapose your time as a businesswoman, wife, mother and public speaker?

My key word in life is balance. Emilio and I are a good partnership, so we help each other as much as we can in everything. It’s crucial for me to give back. We are in a

privileged position to have a voice because people know us, and there have been moments in my life where I have felt that it is very important to stand up for what I feel is right. I will always do that, although sometimes it’s not easy to do. Even though I am never going to lecture people on how they should live or what they should do, and you are never going to hear any lectures in my music, you are definitely going to hear an opinion if I feel it is necessary to raise my voice.

You recently spent USD 15 million renovating your Cardozo Hotel on Ocean Drive in Miami – how involved were you and Emilio in the project?

I honestly have to say that the Cardozo renovation was Emilio’s baby every step of the way. He has a keen eye for design, is infinitely creative and had the energy and patience to take on such an endeavor. Emilio was able to maintain and enhance the Cardozo’s unique Art Deco style, as it intended by its architect, Henry Hohauser, while bringing it up to date with clean, new lines and fresh decor. My input was to insist that the rooms were well soundproofed, so that guests can enjoy ➤

Emilio and I are a good partnership, so we help each other as much as we can T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

165

166

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

INTERVIEW

the excitement of Ocean Drive without it keeping them awake at night! ➤ www.cardozohotel.com What persuaded you to buy the 1939 Art Deco icon in the first place?

My maternal grandfather, Leonardo, loved the beach as much as I did, and he and I would spend every afternoon of my youth frolicking in the surf across from Ocean Drive. At the time, I remember thinking that someone should bring those beautiful hotels back to their glory days and wondered why it hadn’t happened. I convinced Emilio to start investing in properties on the beach, before the Art Deco Preservation movement began.

I remember thinking that someone should bring those beautiful hotels back to their glory days Our first property (which we still own) was a small apartment building on Euclid Avenue. After the success of Dr. Beat in 1985, we decided to make more investments on the beach, and purchased the Shore Park Hotel (where we opened our first restaurant) followed by the Cardozo.

What do you most enjoy about being a hotelier?

Above: The Cardozo Hotel; Right: Gloria with husband Emilio; Below: Costa d’Este Beach Resort & Spa

Creating spaces where people can enjoy beautiful surroundings, in a place that caters to their every vacation need, while enjoying wonderful service provided by friendly and capable people.

Your favorite hotels in the world?

My favourite hotels stand out thanks to the special experiences I had in them. My then four-year-old daughter, husband and I saw the Hale-Bopp comet up-close-and-personal from our open-air suite on the beautiful hillside where The Four Seasons Resort Bali At Sayan is situated. I loved the suite’s open floor plan, with air-conditioned bedrooms either side of a main lounge space open to the elements, with a central infinity pool facing the ocean, crowned by a towering thatched roof. More recently, we invited the family to the opening of our musical On Your Feet in London and took a vacation through Europe afterwards. Everyone adored the luxurious rooms and luxe amenities at The Peninsula Paris, not to mention the delicious hors d’oeuvres and fruits delivered daily and the best croissants I’ve tasted anywhere! ➤

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

167

What do you look for in a good hotel?

A high-quality mattress with decadently indulgent bed linen; a hot and powerful shower, and being able to make the room temperature very cold, because I love to sleep snuggled up to a plush comforter (duvet).

Where is your favorite place in the world to visit?

North of Miami, Vero Beach is my number one favorite, other than Miami! Its pace reminds me of Miami when I was a child, and its environmental consciousness – like protecting our sea turtle nesting grounds – fills my soul. Its cooler climate and pristine beaches draw me and give me peace. We bought a home in Vero Beach in 2002, then bought and renovated Costa d’Este Beach Resort & Spa there. ➤ costadeste.com Our family loves to ski and some of my favourite vacations have been spending quality time on the mountains of Beaver Creek, Aspen and Vail, every night recounting the exciting challenges of the day.

168

Another favourite is anywhere in Hawaii, although Maui especially. Emilio and I spent a month honeymooning in the Orient and ended the trip in Hawaii, so to say that it holds magical memories for me is an understatement. Since that trip, I have revisited Hawaii many times to work and play. Its beautiful mountains, breathtaking beaches, stunning scenery and warm, inviting people will forever make Hawaii one of my favourite places on earth.

Where do you like to eat in Miami?

Il Gabbiano and Estiatorio Milos for delicious sea bass cooked in salt; the food is always wonderful at Zuma and Nobu, and Fiola for Italian.

What’s next for Gloria Estefan?

This year is gearing up to be one of my busiest yet! I have a new album coming out, that reimagines some of my greatest hits as if I’d been born in Brazil. It was recorded in Brazil, with some the nation’s finest musicians. We also shot a documentary about the history of Samba. I’m participating in a couple of feature films and creating a series for television. I’m also enjoying spending as much time as possible with our grandson, Sasha. ➤ www.gloriaestefan.com

INTERVIEW

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

169

S T Y L I S H G L O B E T R OT T E R

fashion’s greatest emperor A T I T A N O F T H E I N D U S T R Y, W H O S E C R E A T I V E C A R E E R S PA N N E D S E V E N D E C A D E S , K A R L L A G E R F E L D WA S T H E E P I T O M E O F A G R A N D D A M E FA S H I O N D E S I G N E R I N E V E R Y S E N S E O F T H E W O R D . T H E C U L T U R E D T R AV E L L E R L O O K S B A C K AT T H E C A R E E R O F A T R U E FA S H I O N I C O N

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

171

ONE OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY’S most decorated and charismatic designers, having helmed Chanel for more than thirty-five years, when Karl Lagerfeld died in Paris last year, he was still going strong at the age of 85 and was one of the most prolific and iconic designers of the 20th and 21st centuries.

Not only was Lagerfeld almost certainly the most famous and recognisable designer on the planet, but he had also simultaneously created legacies at both the iconic French fashion house of Chanel and the Italian luxury fashion house of Fendi, not to mention establishing a world-famous brand in his own name.

Above: 1964 while at Jean Patou; Right: Winning the International Wool Secretariat in 1954

When I was four I asked my mother for a valet for my birthday

172

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

FA S H I O N

I’m very much down to earth, just not this earth Above right: 1964 at Chloé; Below: 1960 in his Paris office; Bottom: 1973

The son of a wealthy businessman who had made his fortune in condensed milk, Karl Otto Lagerfeldt was born on 10 September 1938, in the German port city of Hamburg. Young Karl led a sheltered childhood, learning early to speak French, English, and Italian, as well as his native German, fluently.

Always interested in fashion as a child, he once remarked that he pored over history books more for the costume etchings and descriptions than the battlefield tales.

Initially educated at a private school in Hamburg, as a young man, Lagerfeld often visited Hamburg’s Kunsthalle museum for artistic inspiration. Leaving Hamburg for Paris in 1950, Lagerfeld completed his education at the famous Lycée Montaigne, where he focused on drawing and history.

In 1954, at the age of 21, after winning the International Wool Secretariat in the coat category, Lagerfeld was hired as an assistant to Pierre Balmain, where he designed for

films and dressed stars including Sophia Loren. Three years later, he joined Jean Patou as head designer, where he created 10 couture collections under the name of Roland Karl. Whilst Lagerfeld’s early collections for Patou were notable for how badly they were received by the press, subsequent collections generally impressed, and his elegant and chic yet understated style began to typify his designs.

AFTER FIVE YEARS WITH PATOU, Lagerfeld decided to launch himself as a freelance designer, honing his skills at Krizia, Charles Jourdan and Valentino.

With financial backing from his family, he then opened a small boutique in Paris. In the meantime he continued to design, on a freelance basis, this time ➤

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

173

Vanity is the healthiest thing in life for Tiziani, the Italian couture brand created by American designer Evan Richards, one of his most famous clients being Elizabeth Taylor.

Widely accepted to be France’s first ready-to-wear label, Lagerfeld began freelancing for Gaby Aghion at Chloé in 1963. Working alongside other designers including Graziella Fontana and Michèle Rosier, it was to be the first of his two stints at the brand.

Top left: 1984 at Chanel; Left: In 1978

IN 1965, LAGERFELD JOINED Roman furrier label Fendi, as head designer for its ready-to-wear and fur collections, a post that he held for 54 years until his death. Fendi blossomed under Lagerfeld’s direction.

In 1983, Alain Wertheimer, the coowner of Chanel, asked Lagerfeld to breathe new life into the iconic French house, which was reportedly on its way out at the time, having been in decline since Coco Chanel’s death in 1971. To say that Lagerfeld obliged in spectacular fashion is something of an understatement. In 1984, he presented his first couture collection for the brand.

In the years that followed, as its creative director, Lagerfeld is credited with modernising the legendary French ➤

Left: At the Chanel haute couture show in 1983; Above: 1982 in Paris; Right: With Inès de La Fressange at a Chloé fitting in the mid-1980s

174

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

KNO CKOUT UNDIE S & NIGHT WE AR British Boxers are proud to use traditional nightwear and underwear shapes to create a classic collection of loungewear.

Our clothing isn’t just about sleep. It’s about providing ultimate comfort wherever you are. Our fabrics are built to last – incredibly crisp two-fold cottons which are cool against the skin in warmer climates and exceptionally soft and warm two-fold brushed cottons to keep you cosy on cold days. We travel with you.

www.british-boxers.com

Sweatpants are a sign of defeat. You lost control of your life so you bought some sweatpants brand, pivoting it to appeal to a younger audience and gradually taking Chanel from a small fashion house to one of the industry’s leaders.

The designer would go on to redefine Chanel’s codes while paying homage to Coco Chanel herself, by substituting her ideals with his own modern take on her most renowned designs, consequently making cult items of the house’s bouclé tweed, pearls, dual-toned footwear and interlocking C’s for new generations around the globe.

Main image: Photographed by Annie Liebovitz in 2018; Top Right: Mid 1980s; Above: Surrounded by models, including Jerry Hall, following the Chanel autumn/ winter 1984 show; Right: With the five Fendi sisters in 1984

176

IN 1984, THE DESIGNER FOUNDED his own line, Karl Lagerfeld. Twenty years later, he sold the brand to the Tommy Hilfiger group but remained its chief creative and continued to be involved in the brand’s design processes.

In 2002, Lagerfeld launched the

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

FA S H I O N

Métiers d’Art concept, to celebrate the workmanship of the ateliers that Chanel acquired via its Paraffection subsidiary, some of which Coco Chanel herself worked with, including Lessage (embroidery), Goossens (goldsmithing) and Lemarié (feathers).

Lagerfeld became famous for creating the most spectacular runway shows for Chanel, including a recreation of the Eiffel Tower and a Chanel-branded supermarket. In his fall/winter 2017/18 ready-to-wear show for Chanel, Lagerfeld literally launched a rocket into the sky in an explosive, spacethemed runway show, to a backdrop of Elton John’s seminal track, Rocket Man. In 2017, Chanel released financial figures for the very first time, revealing that it had made GBP 1.35 billion the previous year. This was entirely

I lost 200lb to wear suits

by Hedi Slimane

Lagerfeld’s doing, for, under his watch, Chanel became the most profitable and recognisable global luxury brand. And at his most productive, Lagerfeld was overseeing more than 10 shows a year across three brands.

Meanwhile, as Fendi womenswear’s creative director, Lagerfeld developed and grew the brand’s iconic “F” monogram to such an extent that it could literally be tiled onto anything the house produced, which in turn would sell like hot cakes. Coats, ski suits, bags, dinner plates, phone cases, luggage and more all got the Lagerfeld typography treatment.

As he grew Chanel and Fendi over the years, Lagerfeld’s personal style became as famous as his designs and ➤

Top right: During the finale of the spring/summer 1993 Chanel show; Above: Caption; With Kate Moss and Linda Evangelista backstage post-show in 1995

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

177

Above: With his godson Hudson Kroenig and Cara Delevingne at the end of the Chanel spring/ summer 2014 couture show; Below: In 2015 with Kristen Stewart

he became a 21st century cultural icon, achieving a phenomenal level of fame more akin to that of a pop star. His ice-white ponytail, dark sunglasses, Chrome Hearts rings and black leather gloves became his recognisable style signatures, as did his black tailored suits, his favourite being the slimline style by designer Hedi Slimane while he was at Dior, which he famously lost 6 kilos to fit into. He even penned a weight-loss book in 2002.

HIGHLY OPINIONATED, LAGERFELD was a regular source of quips and quotable lines, some of which got him into trouble. But he didn’t care.

Bernard Arnault, chairman and CEO of LVMH, which owns Fendi, called Lagerfeld “a creative genius who helped to make Paris the fashion capital of the world and Fendi one of the most

178

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

FA S H I O N

I’m a kind of fashion nymphomaniac who never gets an orgasm innovative Italian houses”.

An incredibly talented designer and inspired creative director, there may never be another fashion personality of Lagerfeld’s presence and calibre ever again. But what Lagerfeld really was, was an artist, not only in the way he sketched freehand constantly, but in the way that he behaved, acted in public and captured the attention of anyone even vaguely interested in fashion.

Despite his declining health, Lagerfeld kept tight control of his work. In the week of his death, he was scheduled to be present for fittings for a Chanel womenswear show. Karl Otto Lagerfeldt died in Paris on Tuesday 19 February 2019. Lagerfeld’s millionaire cat, Choupette, was named in his will.

Top right: With Kate Moss at Chanel’s autumn/winter 2009 show in Paris; Above: With Keira Knightley in 2009; Right: With Cara Delevingne in 2014

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

179

ST YLISH GLOBETROT TER

julien macdonald’s creations dazzle celebrity guests at charity fundraiser ➸

CELEBRATED FASHION DESIGNER Julien Macdonald showed his latest creations, Welsh soprano Katherine Jenkins performed “Never Enough” and “Time To Say Goodbye” and London’s fashionistas and glitterati came out to play, on a cold winter’s night, for the Royal Osteoporosis Society gala dinner. The glittering, annual fundraiser raises tens of thousands of Pounds for the fragile bone disease that causes painful, debilitating and sometimes fatal fractures.

Hosted by British comedian Alan Carr and attended by Earl Snowdon, Dame Shirley Bassey, Philip Treacy and Viscountess Weymouth, amongst others, the star-studded bash took place on 27 November 2019 in the palatial

180

ISSUE 2 9 ➤ MA RCH – MAY 2020

surroundings of Banqueting House, which was completed in 1622 by Inigo Jones and is the only surviving part of the lost royal Palace of Whitehall. The spectacular dining room is crowned by nine magnificent 17th century oilon-canvas paintings set into the ceiling, by Peter Paul Rubens, one of Europe’s most influential and important artists.

Guests who had paid up to GBP 750 per plate to attend sipped premium champagne, nibbled canapés and feasted on a delectable multicourse dinner that was rich in minerals and fresh vegetables for bone health, including wild mushrooms, roasted artichokes and crispy kale.

Following dinner, the English novelist and former politician, Jeffrey Archer, entertained

the packed room with engaging anecdotes, while persuading them to part with more than GBP 100,000 during an auction which included a bespoke Julien Macdonald gown, VIP tickets to Wimbledon and front-row seats for an Alessandra Rich fashion show going under the hammer.

Closing the night was the most highly anticipated part of the evening’s proceedings: an exclusive, one-off fashion show by Julien Macdonald, during which more than thirty models, wearing his striking clothing from a variety of seasons, accessorised with couture headwear courtesy of eminent milliner Philip Treacy, dazzled the enthralled throng.

➤ www.theros.org.uk

EVENT

Main image: Julien Macdonald takes a bow; Below left: Dame Shirley Bassey and Julien

T H E C U LT U R E D T R A V E L L E R

181

LIT T L E B L AC K B O O K

1

25HOURS LANGSTRASSE ➤ www.25hours-hotels.com

25HOURS ZURICH WEST ➤ www.25hours-hotels.com

ISLAS SECAS ➤ islassecas.com

J

A

ALEX ➤ www.campbellgrayhotels.com

JOALI ➤ www.joali.com

AMANGALLA ➤ www.aman.com

JULES VERNE PANORAMABAR ➤ jules-verne.ch

B

BAR HEMINGWAY ➤ www.barhemingway.it

K

BAR SACCHI ➤ www.sacchi.bar

KUNSTHAUS ➤ www.kunsthaus.ch/en

BARCHETTA BAR & LOUNGE ➤ www.storchen.ch

JETFUEL ➤ www.15thdegree.com

KONOBA CIGALE ➤ www.losinj-hotels.com/en

BOUTIQUE HOTEL ALHAMBRA ➤ www.losinj-hotels.com/en

L

BRASSERIE LIPP ➤ www.brasserie-lipp.ch/en

LAW LIBRARY, ZÜRICH UNIVERSITY ➤ www.ius.uzh.ch/de/library

BAUR AU LAC ➤ www.bauraulac.ch/en BAUR’S ➤ www.baurs-zurich.ch/en BOTTEGA BERTA ➤ www.bottegaberta.ch

C

CAPELLA UBUD ➤ www.capellahotels.com CASTELLO DI VEZIO ➤ www.castellodivezio.it CINCHONA BAR ➤ www.25hours-hotels.com COCO GRILL & BAR ➤ www.restaurant-coco.ch

E

ENSOIE ➤ www.ensoie.com

F

FISCHER’S FRITZ ➤ www.fischers-fritz.ch FRAU GEROLDS GARTEN ➤ www.fraugerold.ch FRAUMÜNSTER ➤ www.fraumuenster.ch/en FREITAG ➤ www.freitag.ch

G

GLOBUS ➤ www.globus.ch GLORIA ESTEFAN ➤ www.gloriaestefan.com GOLDEN BUDDHA RESORT ➤ www.goldenbuddharesort.com GRAND HOTEL TREMEZZO ➤ www.grandhoteltremezzo.com

182

I

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

LANDESMUSEUM ➤ www.landesmuseum.ch/en LILY’S ORIGINAL ➤ www.lilys.ch LIMITED STOCK ➤ www.limited-stock.com LOŠINJ TOURIST BOARD ➤ www.visitlosinj.hr

M

MARKTGASSE HOTEL ➤ www.marktgassehotel.ch MAURICE DE MAURIAC ➤ www.mauricedemauriac.ch MAX CHOCOLATIER ➤ www.maxchocolatier.com MEINRAD’S TEDDY CLINIC ➤ www.poupee.ch MELISSA ODABASH ➤ www.odabash.com MERCAT DE SANTA CATERINA ➤ www.mercatsantacaterina.com

Ministry of Crab

F E AT U R E D I N T H I S I S S U E O F T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

MINISTRY OF CRAB ➤ www.ministryofcrab.com

SOFITEL MEXICO CITY REFORMA ➤ www.sofitel.accor.com

MUSEUM RIETBERG ➤ www.rietberg.ch/en

SOHO HOUSE MUMBAI ➤ www.sohohousemumbai.com

INDEX

W E B A D D R E S S E S A N D PAGE N U M B E R S F O R E V E RY P L AC E

STORCHEN ➤ www.storchen.ch/en

N

T

NENI ZÜRICH ➤ www.neni.ch/en/langstrasse

THAILAND TOURISM ➤ www.tourismthailand.org

O

THE DATAI LANGKAWI ➤ www.thedatai.com THE DIXON ➤ www.thedixon.co.uk THE OLD CROW ➤ www.oldcrow.ch THE SAROJIN ➤ www.sarojin.com

OZU CASTLE ➤ www.ozucastle.com

THE SILO HOTEL ➤ www.theroyalportfolio.com

P

PAVILLON LE CORBUSIER ➤ www.pavillon-le-corbusier.ch/en PROVIDENCIA THEME VIEWPOINT ➤ www.losinj-providenca.com

V

VECCHIA VARENNA ➤ www.vecchiavarenna.it VILLA DEL BALBIANELLO ➤ www.fondoambiente.it

R

VILLA CARLOTTA ➤ www.villacarlotta.it VILLA MELZI ➤ www.giardinidivillamelzi.it VILLA MONASTERO ➤ www.villamonastero.eu

RACLETTE FACTORY ➤ www.raclette-factory.ch

VILLA SERBOLLONI PARK ➤ www.bellagiolakecomo.com

RAPPERSWIL CASTLE ➤ www.swiss-castles.com

VIRGIN GALACTIC ➤ www.virgingalactic.com

RESTAURANT DALMATINKA ➤ www.restoran-dalmatinka.com/en

ROYAL OSTEOPEROSIS SOCIETY ➤ www.theros.org.uk

W

S

Z

RESTAURANT LA PUNTA ➤ www.ristorantelapunta.it RISTORANTE IN TEATRO ➤ www.pizzeriaincentro.com ROSEWOOD LUANG PRABANG ➤ www.rosewoodhotels.com

WIDDER KITCHEN ➤ www.widderhotel.com

SHIPWRECK LODGE ➤ www.shipwrecklodge.com.na

ZÜRICH TOURISM ➤ www.zuerich.com/en

SINGAPORE CHANGI AIRPORT ➤ www.jewelchangiairport.com SIX SENSES MAXWELL ➤ www.sixsenses.com

Zürich

Sofitel Mexico City Reforma

T H E C U LT U R E D T R AV E L L E R

183

T R AV E L T I P S F R O M T H E T O P

melissa odabash

I F YOU’R E A SEA S ON ED GL OBET RO T T ER , W H AT CA N YOU S I M P L Y N O T T R AV E L W I T H O U T ?

WE ASK THE DE SIGNER, CEO AND FIGU R EH EA D OF H ER EPON Y MOUS I N T ER NAT IONA L S W I M W EA R LABEL, MELISSA ODABASH

LUGGAGE There are certain times of

the year when I travel non-stop, mostly for photoshoots and opening pop-ups, so I have certain bags for certain trips. For photoshoots, I use large Briggs and Riley cases because they don’t get damaged and hold loads of samples. I never use black luggage, because I like to spot my cases straight away on the carousel and so I always tie an Odabash ribbon on the handles.

CARRY-ON I always take two: a large beach tote (if I’m going somewhere sunny!) and a small, over-the-shoulder YSL bag containing my passport and money. I always pack a bikini in my carry-on, so if my checked-in bags don’t show up, I can still sit on a beach and not waste a day waiting!

IN-FLIGHT I’m always

freezing on planes, so a huge wrap around cashmere scarf (big enough to use as a blanket) is an absolute must for me and I tend to wear oversized cardigans with a t-shirt and loose-fitting trousers in-flight.

I always wear my sneakers, since they take up too much space in my case! I use antibacterial wipes to clean everything around my seat, and Dr. Bronner’s organic hand sanitizer, because it smells like lavender which also calms my nerves!

SKIN CARE Since sitting next to the

window on a plane exposes me to

184

ISSUE 29 ➤ MARCH – MAY 2020

UVA rays which penetrate the deeper layers of skin and are known to cause photoaging, I use Dr. Barbara Sturm day cream with Dr. Rita Rakus sunblock on top.

STAYING HYDRATED Flying can be really

dehydrating, so I use Caudalié face mist to keep my skin fresh and, when no one is looking, I put on a pair of Guerlain’s eye sheet masks.

SLEEPING I always carry a silk eye

mask and ear plugs to block out the light and noise, otherwise I won’t sleep and more often than not I have to get off a flight and go straight to work or a shoot.

SCENT If I don’t buy perfume in

an airport, then I travel with a container filled with my favourite scent. For years I only wore Chanel Cristalle, but recently changed to Issey Miyake.

READING MATTER I am obsessed with health books and my new favourites are the Medical Medium books by Anthony William, so I usually have one of his books with almost always buy a new book at the airport to read on a trip. I also carry a small notebook, since ideas constantly pop into my head while I’m travelling.

BEING PREPARED I always pack a blazer in white or black, which is perfect for wearing to a meeting or throwing over

a dress in the evening. And my black heels travel everywhere with me since they work with any outfit.

LOOKING HEALTHY

It makes such a difference to be tanned or at least have a base before you arrive at your holiday destination, so I use Bare

by Vogue Williams which comes in many different shades and really lasts so well! Plus, you don’t want to put on a white bikini and have your skin matching the fabric!