The Cultured Traveller, March-May 2018 Issue 21

ISSUE 21 MAR-MAY 2018

GRANADA WATEGOS BEACH • YOGA IN RISHIKESH BOGOTÁ’S BEST RESTAURANTS • LIVERPOOL • DAVID BOWIE

A NEW PE RSPECT I V E ON LOND ON

MONDRIANLONDON.COM

PART OFS B E

HIGHLIGHTS MAR-MAY 2018 ISSUE 21

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MAJESTIC MARITIME METROPOLIS

A key trading port from the 18th to the early 20th centuries, hometown of The Beatles and former European Capital of Culture, LIVERPOOL has a colourful and historic pedigree. Nicholas Chrisostomou visits Northwest England’s charismatic maritime city and is charmed by its honest people, stunning architecture and blossoming foodie scene.

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WIN 3 NIGHTS ON AN ARABIAN ISLAND

Win a three-night half board stay for two people, in a private two-bedroom pool villa, on exclusive 13-hectare Banana Island by Anantara in the Arabian Gulf.

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BOGOTÁ’S BEST RESTAURANTS

In recent years, the capital of the land of magical realism has become an adult gastronomic playground, aplomb with a wide variety of restaurants spanning every price point and taste sensation. The Cultured Traveller visited BOGOTÁ’s top eateries to give our readers a guide to the best places to dine in Colombia’s vibrant capital.

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TURN UP THE HEAT THIS SUMMER

Spring/summer 2018’s fashion trends are nothing if not bright, bold and beautiful, not to mention diverse, featuring everything from 1950s pastels and colourful stripes to tropical prints and uber-cool sportswear. Adrian Gibson rounds up the hottest items to wear this summer, whether strutting along the Strand or striking a pose on La Croisette.

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WHEN GREAT COOKING IS ART

Celebrated British chef PAUL ASKEW, creative force behind Liverpool's fine Art School restaurant, chats with The Cultured Traveller about his colourful career, the Royal Academy of Culinary Arts’ apprenticeship scheme and winning a prestigious national award.

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BEIRUT’S NEW BAROQUE NIGHTSPOT

Nicholas Chrisostomou visits MusicHall owner Michel Eléftériades’ latest, decadent addition to the Lebanese capital’s pulsating nightlife scene, B BY ELÉFTÉRIADES.

LIVERPOOL

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136 8 EDITOR’S LETTER 48

9 CONTRIBUTORS 10

10 NEWSFLASH The Cultured Traveller rounds up the cultural events and unmissable festivals happening around our colourful planet through ‘til the end of May 2018, including the world’s largest tourism trade fair - ITB BERLIN; the Irish national festival of ST. PATRICK’S DAY in Dublin; the Mother City’s annual CAPE TOWN JAZZ FESTIVAL; SNOWBOMBING in the Tyrolean resort of Mayrhofen; SANTA CLARITA COWBOY FESTIVAL, 30 minutes north of Los Angeles, and the world-famous HAY FESTIVAL in Wales.

18 REST YOUR HEAD

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Take a peek inside the coolest places to lay your hat around the world, including MONTAGE LOS CABOS, set to open at the tip of Mexico’s Baja Peninsula in May 2018; renowned Lebanese Canadian nightclub impresario Charles Khabouth’s glamorous new hospitality palace, BISHA in Toronto; only the second new property to be built in Sydney’s CBD for more than 15 years, WEST HOTEL, and the first-class oceanfront CONRAD CARTAGENA resort, which recently

opened just outside the historic 16th century Colombian walled city.

48 CITY FOCUS Nestled between Lake Nicaragua and Mombacho Volcano, GRANADA blends history, culture and nature, together with a burgeoning boutique hotel and restaurant scene, in one compact and individual destination. Alex Benasuli explores its colonial streets and is utterly enchanted by the Nicaraguan city’s colourful 17th century architecture, crumbling courtyard gardens, elaborate Moorish villas and unique frontier-like spirit.

84 SUITE ENVY In 1904, John Jacob Astor broke ground for the building of the first St. Regis hotel in the most exclusive part of Manhattan. More than a century later, Nicholas Chrisostomou road tests a two-bedroom Empire Suite at ST. REGIS DOHA, to see how one of the hospitality industry’s most historic hotel brands has been reinterpreted in the capital of the world’s richest country.

106 BOARDING PASS Flying can be stressful for even the most seasoned traveller. Whether you‘re embarking on a transatlantic

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journey or heading off on a quick business trip, a negative in-flight experience can set the tone for the whole trip and ruin a vacation. So, The Cultured Traveller rounds up a selection of in-flight essentials which you simply must have handy when flying at 30,000 feet.

110 SKY BRIEF Singapore Airlines’ exclusive new A380 first class suites, designed by renowned French aircraft and yacht interior specialists, Pierrejean Design Studio.

136 NO SHOES REQUIRED If “Welcome to Byron Bay! Cheer Up. Slow down. Chill out” sounds like the kind of mantra you fancy adopting on your next vacation, and your Australian holiday plans include Sydney or a Gold Coast road trip, then be sure to stopover in Byron Bay. Nicholas Chrisostomou enjoys a unique barefoot break at RAE’S boutique hotel on legendary Wategos Beach, five minutes from Byron.

148 SPOTLIGHT On the banks of the Ganges in the tranquil Himalayan foothills, RISHIKESH is a centuries-old destination for pilgrims and renowned

CONTENTS

sanctuary for travellers seeking a deeper cultural understanding of northern India. Dawn Gibson disconnects from her daily routine and follows in the footsteps of The Beatles, by studying yoga at one of the town’s many ashrams.

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188 TASTE & SIP EXPERIENCE

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Greece has a rich history of winemaking, as ancient as the columns that line the Parthenon, so it’s hardly surprising that the country’s wine culture has finally come into line with its flourishing tourist industry. Nicholas Chrisostomou visits KTIMA GEROVASSILIOU winery, nestled amongst the slopes of Epanomi just outside Thessaloniki, to enjoy a relaxed yet sophisticated wine tasting experience.

194 MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE In a career spanning half a century, DAVID BOWIE changed the face of popular music. From space cadet to glam rock god, electro pioneer to song and dance man, his talent for reinvention dazzled and confounded critics and inspired devotion among his legions of followers. Paul Burston charts the many ‘ch-ch-changes’ of rock’s greatest chameleon.

226 LITTLE BLACK BOOK

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EDITOR’S LETTER

M

y first memory of eating something rather good was fresh watermelon carved up by my father in Cyprus. I also remember lobsters in a tank at my parents’ restaurant, and them scampering around the kitchen floor before being plunged into boiling water. Back then, eating and travelling were distinctly separate experiences and didn’t especially overlap. In fact, unless candy-floss or whipped ice-cream was involved, eating whilst on holiday was almost a chore, which came secondary to pretty much anything else which was more exciting. Jump forward to 2018 and I don’t think travel and food have ever been as intertwined as they are today.

As travellers have become more seasoned and savvy, and the decreasing cost of flying has meant that more of us can travel further, more frequently, so too have holiday-makers’ expectations been elevated on the food front – with most now attributing as much importance to this element of their holiday as beach time. And so, I’m happy to say, the quality,

variety and pricing of the cuisine available in a destination has become almost as important today as the forecasted weather.

I wouldn’t call this a ‘gastronomic issue’ per se, since every incarnation of The Cultured Traveller contains some articles to satisfy the culinary cravings of our readers, but Issue 21 does include a number of foodie features hailing from all over our taste-filled globe. We chat with the 21st century's answer to Keith Floyd, modest British chef Paul Askew, who helms one of the top places to enjoy the art of eating north of Birmingham (page204). Alex Benasuli more or less ate his way around the colourful Nicaraguan city of Granada, which is the subject of our cover story (page48). Sophia Brault and Katy Araujo reviewed a selection of the Colombian capital’s most celebrated eateries to compile Bogotá’s Best Restaurants, which showcases some crème de la crème dining establishments in the land of magical realism (page115). And I visited Gerovassiliou winery, set in a spectacular position just outside Greece’s second city, where I spent a memorable Sunday afternoon sampling some of the country’s finest vintages (page188). So, whilst this is not a dedicated foodie issue, our travels in pursuit of the perfect vacation have almost taken us around the world – and right back to the kitchen tables of our childhood. Because, if there’s one shared human experience that lingers, it’s the interconnectedness of food and memories.

Nicholas Chrisostomou Editor-in-Chief

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CONTRIBUTORS

ALEX BENASULI

KATHERINE ARAUJO

PAUL BURSTON

Alex has been traveling the world his whole life. Growing up in New York City, he would accompany his family every summer on visits to relatives in Spain, France and Germany. A successful two-decade career in finance often took him to Brazil, Mexico, Turkey, Russia, India, Indonesia and all over the Far East. Today, as an avid yoga practitioner and part-time teacher, Alex has a keen appreciation for combining luxury highbrow urban travels with off the beaten track alternative destinations and experiences.

Born and raised in Cali, Colombia’s salsa capital, Katherine Araujo had the good fortune of growing up with a close affinity to Colombian cuisine thanks her mother, and inherited delicious traditional recipes from her grandma. Araujo studied cooking and hospitality management in Argentina and Switzerland and likes nothing more than seeing the world and eating great food.

Today, she co-publishes the only restaurant guide in Colombia, travels the country researching and selecting the best establishments for the handbook, and steers foodies to the hottest eateries throughout Colombia.

Paul Burston’s books include the critically-acclaimed novels ‘Shameless’, ‘Lovers & Losers’ and ‘The Black Path’. His journalism has been published in numerous newspapers and magazines, including The Sunday Times, The Guardian and Time Out. A frequent contributor to TV and radio, he has also written and presented documentaries for Channel 4. He is the curator and host of award-winning literary salon Polari at London’s Southbank Centre, and founder of The Polari First Book Prize for new writing. Born in Yorkshire and raised in South Wales, Paul divides his time between London and Hastings.

SOPHIA BRAULT

ADRIAN GIBSON

DAWN GIBSON

Of French-American descent, Sophia Brault grew up between New York, California and Paris and her parents publish restaurant guides about fine cuisine. Sophia studied business and hospitality management in Switzerland with a view to continuing the family business. Brault has been living in Colombia for two years with her partner who she met at school in Switzerland, and with whom she co-publishes Best Restaurants Colombia guide. Brault loves what she does and intend to continue travelling and exploring wonderful and exciting cuisines from around the world, in pursuit of finding what pleases the senses.

Adrian worked as a professional fashion buyer for some of London's leading department stores for more than two decades, including Selfridges, Harrods and Harvey Nichols. Recently he has been working in the Middle East, selecting designer brands for both Harvey Nichols and Bloomingdales in Dubai. An avid shopper himself, he enjoys nothing more than visiting stores, meeting designers and supporting new talent where ever and whenever he’s travelling the globe, as well as keeping a keen eye on the latest trends, both online and on the world’s streets.

Dawn Gibson combines her life-long passions for writing and travel as a globe-trotting journalist, and has worked as a senior news reporter for a leading city daily newspaper in Australia, and editor of a glossy lifestyle magazine in the Middle East. Currently based in England, Dawn has lived in three countries and visited more than thirty. As a keen scuba diver, she is particularly partial to remote tropical beaches, but is equally happy wandering around an art gallery in Paris or searching for an ancient temple in a far-flung part of India.

CITY FOCUS ON GRANADA

BOGOTÁ’S BEST RESTAURANTS

BOGOTÁ’S BEST RESTAURANTS

S/S 2018 FASHION ROUND-UP

MUSIC & NIGHT LIFE

SPOTLIGHT ON RISHIKESH

ITB BERLIN GERMANY

HOLI INDIA This ancient Hindu ritual to mark the beginning of spring – otherwise known as the Festival of Colours due to the bright powders participants throw at each

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other – is essentially a two-day celebration of the triumph of good over evil. The proceedings begin with the lighting of Holika bonfires, symbolising how the God Vishnu helped burn the devil Holika, according to Hindu scriptures. The next day, Rangwali Holi is when people delight in covering their neighbours in water and a rainbow of gulal, or paint powder (apparently Lord Krishna, a reincarnation of Lord Vishnu, liked to prank village girls in this manner). While Holi is observed throughout the world, the best places to see the festival are India and Nepal, especially Delhi, Varanasi, Vrindavan and Jaipur. One note: women should avoid walking about alone during Holi as some men take it as an opportunity to get a little too close for comfort!

1-2 March 2018 www.goindia.about.com

The world’s largest tourism trade fair could be just the ticket if some inspiration is needed for your next cultured travelling experience! ITB Berlin is billed as a trip around the globe in just a few hours, and an opportunity to explore destinations in over 180 countries. With more than 10,000 exhibitors it might be a bit of a nightmare to navigate, but thankfully it’s made easier by being divided into regions and thematic sections, including responsible tourism, business travel, cultural tourism, adventure travel, medical tourism, travel technology, LGBT travel and etravel. A map of the exhibition layout is available online, so you can plan what to see before arriving. This mammoth, annual event has surprises around every corner – expect everything from flamenco dancing to henna hand-painting, massages to cooking demonstrations,

EDM to folk dancing. For travel professionals there are also press conferences, talks, product presentations and networking events.

7-11 March 2018 www.itb-berlin.de/

LAS FALLAS SPAIN This noisy, exuberant celebration, which involves masses of fireworks and the burning of giant puppets, attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors from Spain and around the world to Valencia. Held in honour of St. Joseph’s Day on 19th March, Las Fallas is believed to have originated in a pagan celebration of the spring equinox, and is recorded as first being held from the late 15th century. Each

ST. PATRICK’S DAY IRELAND Held to commemorate Ireland’s patron saint and the arrival of Christianity, St. Patrick’s Day has been an official Christian feast day since the early 17th century. Legend has it that the association with shamrocks and the “wearing of the green” stems back to Saint Patrick’s use of the three-leaved plant to explain the Holy Trinity to the pagan Irish. Celebrated in more countries than any other national festival, today St. Patrick’s Day is a tribute to the far-reaching influence of the Emerald Isle’s expatriate population. However, there’s nothing like experiencing 17th March in Ireland itself, where the public holiday is the climax of a long party. The official festival, established by the Irish government 23 years ago, includes four

CAPE TOWN JAZZ FESTIVAL SOUTH AFRICA

neighbourhood in Valencia funds the construction of its own ‘falla’ – the wood and papier-mâché sculptures at the heart of the fiesta – which can reach up to 15 metres high and usually poke fun at local and international politicians and celebrities, so expect a multitude of Donald Trumps this year! The fallas are placed at key points around the city so visitors can wander about and check them out, before they are burned in a ceremonial explosion accompanied by a giant midnight firework display on the final day.

15-19 March 2018 www.visitvalencia.com

Now in its 19th year, the Mother City’s annual award-winning celebration of jazz will once again take over the Cape Town International Convention Centre for two full days, featuring every type of live performer, from legends to festival newcomers, musical storytellers and up-tempo high-energy acts for younger attendees. More than forty local and international artists will perform on five stages, including celebrated English jazzy singer-songstress Corinne Bailey Rae (pictured), and Brazilian musician, singer/songwriter and actor Seu Jorge, whose Portuguese covers of David Bowie’s songs got global recognition in the movie The Life Aquatic with Steve Zisou. Local fusion sensation Mi Casa are also in the line-up for the 2018

days of street parades, concerts, céilithe (traditional music sessions), theatre performances and fireworks. Whilst the best place to participate in the revelry is Dublin, cities, towns and villages throughout Ireland hold their own parades and festivals.

17 March 2018 www.stpatricksfestival.ie

festival, along with veteran Cape Town performer Alistair Izobell. Sekunjalo Edujazz Band will also be on stage to deliver their impressive interpretation of evergreen standards and local classics. Helmed by new director Kelly Bell, the ensemble’s varied playlist includes many memorable highlights.

23-24 March 2018 www.capetownjazzfest.com

DUBAI WORLD CUP U.A.E. Get the hatbox down from the top of the wardrobe and dry clean your best designer togs – the world’s richest horse race is upon us again. Held in one of the world’s most talked-about cities and attracting the cream of Dubai society as well as a fair few international glitterati, the Gulf’s leading equestrian event is as much about being seen as it is a tribute to the beauty of Arabian horses. The culmination of Dubai’s World Cup carnival, the main event at Meydan Racecourse, will see USD 30million of prizes presented to the winners of the day’s nine races, which include eight thoroughbred contests and

one for purebred Arabians. The after-race concert typically draws some of the biggest names in pop – the past few years have seen SIA, Janet Jackson, Kylie and Jennifer Lopez take to the stage – and the day concludes with a spectacular fireworks extravaganza.

31 March 2018 www.dubaiworldcup.com 12 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2018

NAGHOL LAND DIVING VANUATU Essentially the precursor to bungee jumping, this ancient ritual sees brave men and boys of the Sa tribe (near Tansip, on Pentecost Island, in a remote part of the South Pacific) hurtle towards the ground head first from wooden

towers of 20-30 metres high, at speeds of more than 40mph, with nothing but tree vines tied around their ankles and no safety equipment. Tribal members on terra firma sing and dance to help the divers be brave. The vines act as bungee cords and each diver is invited to build their own platform and select their own vine so no one else can be blamed for a fatal accident. If the vine is too short the jumper will crash back into the tower. If it’s too long, he will almost certainly break bones or possibly even perish. Watch National Geographic’s video about Vanuatu’s famous land divers.

Every Saturday between April and June 2018 www.vanuatu.travel

DANCE OPEN RUSSIA One of the most important events in the international ballet calendar, lovers of the dance genre from all over the world are drawn annually to St. Petersburg by a series of pristine shows, master classes and the much-coveted Dance Open Awards. Festival shows are performed in the historic Alexandrinsky Theatre, considered the birthplace of the Russian ballet more than 250 years ago, whilst the awards celebrate the greatest personal achievements of ballet soloists, including their technique and artistry, regardless of styles, genres and performance trends. For the XVII season of the festival, ballet companies from Monte Carlo, Amsterdam and Maribor, as well as independent dancers from all over the world, will come together to perform in Russia’s second-largest city, and the program includes premieres, choreographic experiments and unusual scenographic solutions. The closing night gala on 17th April, comprising various styles including classical and modern, promises to be a supremely memorable night for ballet aficionados.

2-17 April 2018 www.danceopen.com

time to smell the roses Explore the famous rose terraces of Jabal Akhdar on an expertly guided tour, indulge in a special rose-inspired Spa Alila treatment, and dine on the finest fare at the award-winning Juniper restaurant. Throughout the rose season, Alila Jabal Akhdar is offering a very special ‘Rose Experience’ package. Ideally positioned 2,000 metres above sea level amongst the rocky peaks of the stunning Hajar mountains, Alila Jabal Akhdar invites guests to celebrate the exquisite rose harvest in Oman with a rose-inspired experience not to be missed!

ROSE EXPERIENCE 15 April to 15 May 2018 | Two-night accomodation, subject to availability Rate starts from USD 720 excluding17% Government Taxes / per couple Daily breakfast and dinner changing three-course table d›hote menu at Juniper restaurant Guided tour for Rose terraces and Spa Alila treatment Booking Code: PKROSE2018

SNOWBOMBING AUSTRIA The world’s biggest festival in the snow takes place over a fun-packed week in the Tyrolean resort of Mayrhofen in Austria, towards the end of the traditional annual ski season. Frequently referred to as the Glastonbury of mountain gatherings, days are spent skiing, boarding, enjoying music in mountain-top locales, feasting on vast spreads and relaxing in luxury hotel saunas and over 100 spas and pools. Nights deliver a completely different experience, with cutting-edge performances happening in a host of unique alpine venues, from pools and sky-high igloos to enchanted forest clearings and mountain stage sets. This year’s line-up is headlined by former lead singer of rock band Oasis, Liam Gallagher, together with Australian drum and bass and electronic rock band, Pendulum. Also topping the Snowbombing bill this year, is English hip-hop recording artist and record producer Dizzee Rascal, who 15 years ago brought London’s grime scene into the mainstream’s consciousness.

9-14 April 2018 www.snowbombing.com

SONGKRAN THAILAND Having fun is a big part of Thai culture, even better having fun amidst scorching heat! The hottest month of the year, April, sees the entire country go bananas in friendly water fights and street parties that last nearly a week. Also known as Thai New Year or Thailand Water Festival, Songkran was originally a way for Thai people to sprinkle water on their family members and elders to bring good fortune, as well as pay their respects to images of the beloved Buddha. Today, the festival has transitioned into three days of fun-filled water fights and non-stop revelry, soaking locals and visitors in the teeming streets, with buckets of water, hoses and super soakers. Previously held on dates that were dependent upon the Thai lunar calendar, whilst Songkran is now commemorated on the same days every year, the sopping wet celebrations typically begin before and end many days after the official holiday! 13-15 April 2018 www.songkranday.com

SANTA CLARITA COWBOY FESTIVAL U.S.A. About 30 minutes north of Los Angeles, the Californian city of Santa Clarita is home to one of the world’s biggest, annual cowboy gatherings. Marking its th 25 anniversary this year, the Santa Clarita Cowboy Festival celebrates California’s Western heritage, and the city’s love of the Western film genre. This action-packed happening routinely attracts more than 10,000 attendees for its live music, authentic western activities, trick ropers, gun spinners, magicians and more, as well as living history exhibits and fine Western gear, not to mention Dutch oven peach cobbler which is reputedly so tasty it’s earned a reputation of its own. This year’s festival features four different stages of cowboy, folk and bluegrass music courtesy of a host of performers, including famed band Hot Club of Cowtown, lauded for its down-home melodies and exuberant improvisation, and lifelong buckaroo and cowboy poet Waddie Mitchell, a master in the art of spinning tales in rhyme.

19-22 April 2018 www.cowboyfestival.org 14 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2018

THRISSUR POORAM ELEPHANT FESTIVAL INDIA Known as the cultural capital of the Indian state of Kerala, its name literally translating to “the city of the Sacred Siva”,

Thrissur, the country’s 20th largest city, is rich in history, brimming in cultural heritage and wealthy in archaeological treasures. If you have a weakness for colourful Indian festivals that both delight and assault the senses at the same time, then this is the one for you, complete with fireworks, folk dancing, revelry and plenty of drumming. In a region in which elephants are a common feature of religious festivities, Thrissur Pooram stands out as an observance that is specially endowed with the presence of these giants, which are, of course, the main attraction – decorated with gleaming golden headdresses, ornamental bells, palm leaves, peacock feathers and beautiful intricate paintings. Ornate parasols – carried by the elephant riders on tall bamboo poles – add to the stunning overall visual feast of it all.

25 April 2018 www.thrissurpooramfestival.com

CINCO DE MAYO MEXICO th

In mid 20 century America, the celebration of Cinco de Mayo became, among Mexican immigrants, a way of boosting pride in their heritage, not to mention an excuse to eat Mexican food and drink tequila. But in Mexico the holiday is celebrated a little bit differently: Since Cinco de Mayo actually commemorates a military victory, when, despite being vastly outnumbered by the French, the Mexican army was triumphant on 5th May 1862, the day is celebrated in the state of Puebla with parades, speeches, mouthwatering meals and historical re-enactments of the 1862 battle. In Puebla visitors experience an authentic, vibrant and colourful celebration, featuring arts spectacles, costumed paraders, Mexican dancers, mariachi bands, parties and dancing

filling the streets. Be sure to sample mole poblano, the most traditional Cinco de Mayo dish. It’s a thick sauce made with green chillies – among many other ingredients – that is often served over turkey or chicken.

5 May 2018 www.everfest.com

BRIGHTON FESTIVAL U.K. Taking place in venues both familiar and unusual across the bohemian, British south coast city, Brighton Festival is an annual celebration of music, theatre, dance, circus, art, film, literature, outdoor and family events. A veritable creative cornucopia of world-class art and entertainment happenings – including debates, musical concerts and theatrical performances – many of the festival’s events are specially commissioned and have their first public airings during these three weeks every May. Previous guest directors of this London-By-The-Sea critically acclaimed mixed arts fest, have included Vanessa Redgrave (2012) and Burmese leader Aung San Suu Kyi (2011). Guest director for the 2018 outing of the Brighton Festival, is acclaimed visual artist and cartoonist David Shrigley (pictured). Best known for his distinctive drawing style and works that make satirical comments on the absurdity of 21st century society, Shrigley’s darkly humorous compositions reflect the inconsequential, the bizarre, and the disquieting elements of daily life.

5-27 May 2018 www.brightonfestival.org

HAY FESTIVAL

BEIRUT BOAT

WALES

LEBANON Fast-paced, fashion-conscious and overwhelmingly friendly, the Lebanese capital is the quintessential East-meets-West experience, and wholeheartedly lives up to its moniker of “the Paris of the Middle East”, so-called thanks to its French influences and vibrant cultural and intellectual life. The city’s pulsating art, food and nightlife rival anything New York, Paris or London have to offer, and once a year, over the course of five days, Beirut’s boat show blends supreme luxury with exhilarating escapades. Not only is Beirut Boat an opportunity to see some of the world’s most extravagant super yachts and talk all things nautical with luxury yachting

companies and brokerage houses, but it also gives visitors an opportunity to be immersed in couture fashion, exquisite jewellery and rare supercars.

And, as one would expect of the party capital of the Arab world, the vast array of pleasure craft on show is complemented by a host of live music events and exclusive parties.

9-13 May 2018 www.beirutboat.com

For ten days annually, from the end of May until early June, when the playful British weather is most likely to be bright and sunny, thousands of literary buffs young and old alike, descend upon Hay-on-Wye in Wales’ beautiful Brecon Beacons National Park, to sit and read books. The world-famous Hay Festival celebrates great writing from poets and scientists, lyricists and comedians, novelists and environmentalists, and the power of great ideas to transform peoples’ way of thinking, and gives everyone from children to professors the opportunity to enjoy the energy of the written word. One of this year’s

GIRONA FLOWER FESTIVAL SPAIN The historic Spanish city of Girona – located in the country’s northeastern Catalonia region, beside the River Onyar – is best known for its medieval architecture, walled Old Quarter and the Roman remains of the Força Vella fortress. But for ten days every year, Girona’s buildings,

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courtyards, monuments, patios and gardens are adorned with more than one hundred spectacular floral displays and arrangements, staged alongside a programme of traditional Spanish events and culinary happenings.

Whole streets become art installations, accompanied by music, light, fountains and the intoxicating scent of thousands of flowers. Girona’s Town Hall always comes up with a well-constructed and somewhat dignified display, that befits its status and its central location on the Plaça del Vi, the city’s bustling square enclosed by arcades. Throughout Girona during the festival, the wonderful ensembles of striking colours and penetrating aromas that accompany the cultural heritage of this beautiful Catalan city, make this part of Europe a must visit Spring destination.

12-20 May 2018 www.gironatempsdeflors.cat

headline events, is Canadian writer of more than 40 books of poetry, fiction and essays, Margaret Atwood, discussing her 1985 dystopian masterpiece The Handmaid’s Tale with Peter Florence. Also a highlight, will be the performance of great West African all women supergroup, Les Amazones d’Afrique, with their exuberant harmonies and sublime rhythms.

24 May–3 June 2018 www.hayfestival.com/wales

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TERRANEA RESORT LOS ANGELES, U.S.A.

Mar-May 2018 The Cultured Traveller 19

LOS ANGELES, U.S.A. TERRANEA RESORT Feeling more like the Mediterranean than Southern California, it’s hard to believe that the rambling 102-acre Terranea Resort, on the Palos Verdes Peninsula overlooking Catalina Island, is only 30 minutes from the melting pot of bold creatives and eclectic world cultures that is Los Angeles, and conveniently positioned between LAX and Long Beach airports offering easy highway access to Hollywood and Disneyland.

A member of the Destinations Hotel family, Terranea inherited the site of the old Marineland oceanarium, designed in the 1950s by architect William Pereira, who was responsible in part for LAX’s iconic Theme Building. In the 1980s, after Marineland went bust, the site lay dormant for decades, which was perhaps a blessing in disguise since this preserved its original coral trees. More than two decades after Marineland shipped off its whales and closed its gates, and the culmination of 10 years of planning and costing some half a billion Dollars to build, the 582-room resort opened in 2009 atop the same ocean bluffs in Rancho Palos Verdes.

So large it can host five weddings at the same time, and with one of the largest ballrooms in Los Angeles County, Terranea occupies one of the most spectacular settings of any hotel in the States. Eight years after it opened, the resort has just unveiled a USD40 million restoration by Chicago-based design firm BAMO. Retaining the hotel’s classic Spanish Colonial style, the redesign also now embraces the casual elegance of coastal California. Today, guests face the daily option of choosing between the sybaritic life or one of adventure. You can sip cocktails in front of the Lobby Bar’s fireplace, out on its heated terrace, or around the private fire pit outside your own bungalow or villa for that matter. Guests can also lounge at any of four saltwater-treated swimming pools, two of which are adults-only, and frolic down a 140-foot waterslide in another.

More than 350 of Terranea’s guest rooms are located in the main hotel. With full kitchens, 50 three-bedroom ocean view casitas and 32 villas are nicely private. The twenty bungalows in front of the spa and closest to the sea cliffs have their own little secluded vibe. All accommodation has seen upgrades, including new décor and furnishings, plus the addition of locally sourced artworks to complement the coastal tones and refined palette. The 50,000ft2 spa now has 25 treatment rooms. Onsite Catalina Kitchen has reopened, complete with an overhauled interior, new external décor and an open kitchen and new bar. And a new casual outdoor dining venue - The Grill at Terranea - has also been unveiled. For non-Terranea guests, the impressive buffet brunch alone, at Catalina Kitchen with its enormous shaded patio, is worth negotiating L.A.’s freeways for. www.terranea.com

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HARADS, SWEDEN TREEHOTEL Inspired by Jonas Selberg Augustsen’s film ‘The Tree Lover’ (a tale of three urbanites that build a treehouse together in the forest), it all started in 2010 with Britta and Kent Lindvall's dream to turn a 1930s retirement home into a guesthouse in their home village of Harads, about 70 minutes from Luleå airport in the north of Sweden. The end result is far from an ordinary B&B, and although there are eight guest rooms in Britta’s Pensionat, it is the Treehotel that people travel from all corners of the globe to experience.

Seven Scandinavian architects have now built treehouses for Treehotel, including a bird's nest, a UFO, a mirrored cube and the most recent addition unveiled earlier this year, ‘The 7th Room’ designed by Norwegian architects Snøhetta. There is also ‘The Blue Cone’ with a double bed and two singles, approached by a ramp way; the rectangular shaped ‘Cabin', a favourite with honeymooners, boasting mesmerising views into the surrounding forest; and 'The Dragonfly' comprises two separate bedrooms with two double beds of four singles. Whilst the characteristics of each of the seven tree houses differ tremendously according to each's particular design, all are minimalist with eco-loos and basins, and simple pine walls and floors. ‘The 7th Room’ is the only tree house which has a shower (showers are available in two sauna houses) and is the largest and highest house, with a capacity to sleep five. All hang in a pine forest, far above the ground in deepest Swedish Lapland, and the silence within the tree houses is palpable.

There is a small clearing above each tree house from which the Northern lights can be seen on a clear night. Reindeers with their Sámi herders and the Arctic Circle are easy day trips, and Treehotel is well placed for fishing, in summer or winter, in the wide Lule River just a few minutes away. Classic Swedish massages are available. There’s a zip-line onsite, and other activities include moose safaris, ice-fishing and dog-sledding - plenty to occupy even the most energetic of Lapland adventurers! www.treehotel.se/en

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M’DIQ, MOROCCO SOFITEL TAMUDA BAY BEACH AND SPA Located in the town of M’diq about 20 miles east of Tangier, and nestled between the Rif mountains of Northern Morocco and the deep blue waters of the Mediterranean, this imposing resort courtesy of French luxury hotel brand Sofitel, invites guests to experience the ultimate combination of nature, Moroccan art de vivre and French artistic inspiration in one uber-cool oasis of well-being.

Conceptualised and fashioned by French-Lebanese architect Galal Mahmoud, of Beirut based firm GM Architects, Sofitel Tamuda Bay’s architecture and interior design were conceived as a smooth and seamless transition between indoors and outdoors, uniting sophisticated Moroccan culture with modern architecture, in interiors rich in colour and texture that are highly characteristic of the local way of life which has evolved over so many centuries. The result is a hotel that is strongly inspired by the glamour of the French Riviera in the 1950s and ‘Fauviste’ artists including Matisse and Rouault, that makes the most of a wonderful stretch of land between Fnideq and M‘diq, where the sand is golden, the waters are crystal clear and the weather is almost always good.

Guests are accommodated in a range of rooms, plus suites of varying sizes, eight bungalows and five villas.

All rooms are designed in an arty-chic fashion and positioned in an idyllic setting on the edge of one of the Kingdom’s most beautiful beaches. The gorgeous beach villas touch the sand. Interiors are cool, bright and uncluttered so blend seamlessly with the magical natural landscape.

Lounge around the turquoise-blue pool or in a beach cabana. Indulge at Le Marche du Saveurs’s expansive all-day dining buffets, or feast alfresco at the SO Beach Lounge, before sipping on a signature cocktail at the Koudiaz Bar. Night owls will enjoy the SO Lounge, a fully-fledged nightclub that regularly plays host to international DJs. And for those wishing to rest and relax, the onsite SoSPA is the perfect place to unwind, with hammam rituals among the many therapies on offer. www.sofitel.com

LOS CABOS, MEXICO MONTAGE LOS CABOS With its combination of luxury hotels, trailblazing restaurants, world-class golf courses and outstanding fishing, complete with vistas that will jam your Instagram feed, Los Cabos, set at the tip of Mexico’s Baja Peninsula, delivers the quintessential Mexican beach holiday. Just a two-hour flight from Los Angeles, this vacation oasis, where the Pacific Ocean meets the Sea of Cortez, unsurprisingly attracts a healthy celebrity quotient pretty much year-round. With its pleasant desert-like weather (think dry and hot days and cool, breezy nights) there’s really no bad time to visit Los Cabos. Jennifer Aniston is regularly spotted at hotels like the One&Only Palmilla, and George Clooney loved the area so much that he built a beachfront pile and flipped it to a Mexican billionaire for a tidy sum.

Widely considered to be the best place for snorkelling in the area, Bahía Santa María (also referred to Santa Maria Bay) is brimming with a multitude of tropical fish and marine life. This is largely thanks to its placid waters being a protected fish sanctuary and part of an underwater reserve. Edged by a serene horseshoe-shaped bay and surrounded by cactus-covered rocky cliffs, brightly coloured fish swarm through chunks of white coral and golden sea fans. It is in this cherished location

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that Montage resorts - which are situated all over the States - has built a high-end resort of contemporary design that sits lightly in its idyllic setting, and is sensitive to the beautiful environment surrounding it.

Joining the private residential community of Maryville Los Cabos, perched upon the best piece of beach in Cabo and set within 39 lush acres, luxury Montage Los Cabos resort will open in May 2018 with 122 generously-proportioned guest rooms and suites, a sprawling full-service spa and multiple dining options, as well as 52 whole ownership residences.

In addition to ocean views from every hotel room and residence, the extensive use of natural woods and stones, plus native planting indigenous to Mexico will create a timeless environment that reflects the careful balance, care and elegance in the resort’s design. And being the first international outpost of Montage, the American brand has really gone to town with the resort’s facilities, which will include a Fred Couples Signature golf course in addition to onsite tennis courts, a 20,000-square-foot pool spanning two levels, sport fishing, sailing, surfing, yachting, horseback riding and countless other leisure activities.

www.montagehotels.com/loscabos

TORONTO, CANADA BISHA Charles Khabouth is a renowned Lebanese Canadian nightclub impresario and restaurateur, not to mention Toronto’s nightlife kingpin, who is fond of serving-up flashy, immersive and upscale experiences. Hailing from Beirut, the Paris of the Middle East, where appetites for nightlife and entertaining are deeply engrained, it’s little surprise that Khabouth’s sultry new Bisha hotel in Toronto - his first foray into the hotel industry - articulately reflects the midnight mood and downtown edge of the electric entertainment district of the vibrant capital of the Canadian province of Ontario.

Stepping into the 44-storey Wallman Architects-designed Bisha tower - a name that nods to his childhood nickname - is like entering the dramatic abode of a Saudi prince. Whilst the tower’s exterior form boasts a dramatic façade of glass and steel, complemented by the traditional red brick cladding and stone trim of the retained heritage building at its base, inside is all crushed velvet walls, mosaic marble flooring, hypnotic artworks and an intimate, dimly lit atmosphere, conducive to slick business deals, clandestine meetings and naughty liaisons. The lobby is a real showstopper, with a snazzy floor of custom-cut marble and walls of iridescent jet-blue velvet. Elsewhere within the building, dramatic blacks and whites, bold geometric floors and sensual textures lend to the general highly charged interior design aesthetic, all courtesy of Toronto’s Studio Munge A hotel and condo hybrid, floors 9 through 42 contain luxe one and two-bedroom apartments. The hotel part comprises 96 rooms including 13 suites on the eight floors below the residences. A standard hotel room (which starts at around USD400 per night) boasts custom furniture against chalk-white walls - including a velvet couch and a glossy black Art Deco-inspired armoire 300-count Frette linen, a sumptuous bathroom with heated floor and deluxe toiletries by cool Swedish brand Byredo, including its new Bal D’Afrique fragrance. Chic touches like super-slim TVs suspended from the ceiling and a retro mini-bar cart filled with truffle chips, Red Bull and iStore essentials lend to the rock-star feel.

Floor-to-ceiling windows yield views and plenty of light, while blackout drapes ensure you can sleep ‘til noon.

On the 44th floor there’s Kōst, an epic rooftop restaurant and patio with panoramic city and lake views. Anyone who’s been lounging too long downstairs may well be blinded by the white oak walls, ivory ceramic table-tops and floor-to-ceiling windows (which look out onto an infinity pool, with the CN Tower in the background). Directly below Kōst is a private events space that can comfortably accommodate more than two hundred guests. Oh, and the seventh floor’s hotel suites were designed by Lenny Kravitz (yes, he’s a designer now). www.bishahoteltoronto.com

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LONDON, U.K. THE DIXON Situated between Tooley Street and Queen Elizabeth Street within London’s characterful and historic Tower Bridge Conservation Area, The Dixon encompasses a sympathetic conversion of the Grade II listed 1906 John Dixon Butler police station and Tower Bridge Magistrates’ Court, together with the addition of a new-build extension to the rear of the property, to create a unique boutique hotel which is deeply imbedded in the local community.

Set to open in Autumn 2018 and offering travellers a unique take on the boutique hotel experience, guests will enjoy a warm, neighbourhood feel in the heart of the British capital whilst staying just 200m from London’s iconic Tower Bridge. Socially and culturally immersive, The Dixon will be as much about enjoying the local community as it will be about feeling comfy and at home. And cleverly reflecting the building’s former role, the hotel’s Courthouse café will serve as a both a neighbourhood gathering place and artistic hub, that will welcome not only hotel guests but also locals.

Part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection, The Dixon’s 193 rooms including 9 suites, will redefine the traditional boutique hotel, by seamlessly incorporating local culture through an artful mix of heritage design. Think simple brickwork, plenty of natural light, tall windows and modern British-designed furniture sitting alongside more classic pieces, original Georgian oak panelling and reclaimed pieces from the Courthouse. Tasteful, curated works courtesy of local artists will adorn the walls, and The Dixon’s support of the local arts will extend far beyond the hotel, with a diverse and carefully orchestrated cultural programme, including special access to the local theatres and studios surrounding its central South East London location. The Tate Modern, Shakespeare’s Globe and the diverse offerings of the new Bridge Theatre are all just a few minutes’ walk away from The Dixon, which will undoubtedly make this hotel the funky, well-connected and perfectly situated new kid on the Tooley Street block when it opens later this year. www.thedixon.co.uk

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A Swire Properties Company

GAMMARTH, TUNISIA FOUR SEASONS HOTEL TUNIS Located some 20 kilometres north of the Tunisian capital, adjacent to La Marsa, Gammarth is an upmarket seaside resort known for its exclusive hotels and fancy shops. Here, north of the ancient ruins of Carthage and located on a sandy site that steps down to the Mediterranean, Four Seasons Hotel Tunis recently débuted, exuding 5-star elegance through a charming North African lens, and using simple fabrics and furnishings in response to the refined, yet casual vernacular of the region.

Designed by San Francisco-based firm BraytonHughes Design Studios, which also oversaw the construction of the property, the concept for Four Seasons Hotel Tunis grew out of a week-long discovery tour of rich Tunisian culture, dating back to the time of the Phoenicians who settled in 1000 BC. The traditional houses of Tunis’ medina were the inspiration for a series of 2-3 storey interior courtyards that became the entry ways to each of the hotel’s guest rooms. Meanwhile, the hotel’s main entrance, about 50 meters above sea level, together with its exterior architecture, step down the hill like the nearby village of Sidi Bou Said. The overall result is both imposing and striking, yet warm and inviting.

A grand dome hovers above the mosaic floors of the lobby, which is also anchored by a sculpture by celebrated artist Yahya Turk, described by many as the “father of Tunisian painting”. All 203 guestrooms are mirrored after simplistic, romantic North Africa homes, with locally-sourced stone floors and lightly coloured plaster walls. Cool, open rooms are endowed with contemporary divans, locally crafted rugs and regionally inspired artwork. Even standard rooms feature a living area, bedroom, a generously-proportioned terrace and a full, oversized bathroom.

Like the rest of the hotel, the spa has been designed with an intense sensitivity to the local terrain, complete with classic Islamic-style arches, Tunisian black and white tiled columns, plaster and wood architecture, and detailing reminiscent of the location’s hillside towns. Four Seasons Hotel Tunis is both a sanctuary of modern luxury and style and a gateway to city’s wonderful seaside lifestyle. www.fourseasons.com/tunis

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Experience luxury Stay at The St. Regis Doha, where contemporary luxury meets classic sophistication.

Enjoy the grandeur and timeless elegance of our suites overlooking the amazing sights and scenes of the Arabian Gulf and allow our butlers to complete your experience with impeccable service. Indulge your taste buds with our world class cuisine in any of our 12 award winning venues.

Come and explore our exquisite offer with 15% discount on rooms, food & beverage and Remède Spa. Offer is subject to availability and it is bookable until 31st March 2018. Booking code: Spring Promotion The St. Regis Doha Al Gassar Resort, West Bay, Doha, Qatar t. +974 4446 0000 reservations.doha@stregis.com stregisdoha.com

Stay exquisite at more than 40 St. Regis hotels and resorts worldwide. @stregishotels

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SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA WEST HOTEL Named after its location on the western corridor of Sydney’s central business district - close to Darling Harbour and just five blocks from Wynyard Station - the eye-catching West Hotel is only the second new property to be built in the city’s CBD for more than 15 years. But unlike many places to rest one’s head in the capital of New South Wales, West Hotel’s distinctive character offers a UNIQUE taste of design splendour in the city‘s newest cultural hub, and appeals to both curious corporate guests and discerning travellers seeking a more authentic Sydney experience.

Architects Fitzpatrick and Partners have incorporated some cool design elements within the fabric of the building, which set the hotel apart from others in Sydney, including a cool open-air central garden atrium.

Meanwhile, a variety of modern classic design elements have been skilfully crafted throughout the interiors, courtesy of interior designers Woods Bagot: the same design firm behind many of Qantas’ new airport lounges, including the new domestic business lounge in Brisbane. Throughout West Hotel, a colour palette which reflects the character of Sydney Harbour and its natural surrounds, is complemented with rich, textured hues and married with bespoke artworks and graphic floors. Whilst sculptural lighting and natural stones successfully offset edgy industrial detailing with polished sophistication.

Each of the hotel’s 182 guest rooms feature state-of-the-art in-room entertainment systems and functional work areas for the busy corporate traveller. Whilst the four sleek suites - boasting views of either the Barangaroo precinct or Sussex Street - feature a separate living room and a private bedroom as well as an oversized bathroom laden with amenities by celebrated Melbourne born hair stylist Kevin Murphy. curiocollection3.hilton.com

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CARTAGENA, COLOMBIA CONRAD CARTAGENA In recent years Colombia has undergone a remarkable transformation and made huge strides in restoring security and stability to the nation. Today, the country’s boundless energy and genuine spirit fill every corner of the land, and music, dance, food, art, fashion and style saturate its conurbations. Nowhere is this more evident than the historic 16th century Caribbean walled city of Cartagena de Indias, a fairytale destination of romance, legends and superbly preserved beauty and remarkable secrets, contained within centuries-old colonial stone walls.

Cartagena was granted World Heritage Site status by UNESCO in 1984 and remains one of the most authentic and well-maintained examples of Spanish period colonial architecture in the world. A maze of cobbled alleys, ornate bougainvillea-covered400-year-old houses, crumbling mansions and massive churches that cast their shadows across plazas, music, aromas and pulsating rhythms greet visitors in every corner of city. Horses and carts clatter through the streets and flash mobs dance in pretty squares. Whilst the whole of Colombia is designed to be explored at ground level, once visited, the nation’s undisputed Caribbean queen saturates with her architectural gems and embraces with her alluring charms to such an extent that it’s truly hard for one to leave.

The recently opened Conrad Cartagena resort hotel, on the north side of the walled city, is a veritable first-class oceanfront oasis, boasting a tropical atmosphere with vibrant colours and Caribbean flavours. Aside from the 268 rooms including 31 deluxe suites, Cartagena’s new hospitality queen offers seven restaurants and a wealth of leisure facilities, including four swimming pools, a scenic 18-hole Jack Nicklaus-designed TPC golf course, a sprawling spa with a multitude of treatment rooms including a couples’ suite, a well-equipped fitness center, a dreamy beach club, a kids club, an executive lounge for VIP guests and expansive sandy beaches. In short, staying at Conrad Cartagena affords visitors to Colombia’s VIBRANT Caribbean city the perfect place to recover after a night out on the town and rejuvenate in readiness for the next! www.cartagena.conradhotels.com

AMSTERDAM, NETHERLANDS HYATT REGENCY AMSTERDAM Just outside the central canal belt though centrally located, Hyatt Regency Amsterdam ticks numerous boxes as a highly desirable place to stay for both business and leisure travellers when visiting the Netherlands’ capital, and is the first and only hotel in the city to achieve BREEAM sustainability certification, taking great pride in its eco credentials.

Bordering the leafy and increasingly trendy eastern Plantage district - full of parks, 19th century buildings and a host of museums - Hyatt Regency Amsterdam is housed within an attractive, purpose-built modern structure, that spills into a series of period townhouses. Blending contemporary design and creature comforts with creative nods to its neighbouring institutions, the hotel’s spacious and light filled spaces are in stark contrast to the typically more cramped experiences that are often the hospitality norm for properties converted from Amsterdam’s historic buildings.

Inspired by the nearby Hortus Botanicus, there is a massive living wall and plants everywhere, whilst Indonesian touches add eye-catching accents to the décor in honour of the Tropenmuseum a few minutes away. Hence spending time in the seamless common areas of this hotel is a real pleasure, not to mention both calming and uplifting.

Upstairs, the 211 rooms and 15 suites are generously proportioned and continue the design theme of light-flooded and contemporary décor, with clean lines and comfortable soft furnishings, complemented by colourful botanical print artworks. All rooms have dedicated workstations and many have boast views over the city’s skyline, towards historic buildings, canals or nearby parks. All bathrooms have walk-in rain showers. All suites have deep soaking bathtubs. The hotel’s biggest lodgings - The Spinoza Suite - offers apartment-like living with separate living and dining rooms, a kitchenette and huge closets.

Mama Makan, the hotel’s signature restaurant, offers an interesting menu of traditional Indonesian dishes, complete with a bar serving cocktails inspired by well-travelled spices, herbs and plants, a carefully curated selection of craft and specialty beers, and a good selection of European and new world wines. And on Friday nights a guest DJ provides a funky musical soundtrack which lifts the atmosphere at the start of each weekend.

Anything but a buttoned-down business hotel and a true 21st century property, Hyatt Regency Amsterdam successfully pulls-off flawlessly what is almost unheard of in the industry – to be a full-service hotel appealing to both business and leisure travellers, without compromising style, heart and soul.

Service is warm and personal. Bicycles are offered to guests to explore the surroundings. Bespoke walking tours are arranged to suit all types of interests.

Though the well-equipped gym is open 24 hours, residents are encouraged to go jogging in the fresh air of nearby Oosterpark, or around the perimeter of the botanical gardens and zoo.

Much like Amsterdam itself, Hyatt Regency Amsterdam offers an innovative and fresh product in the Netherlands’ capital, whilst embodying enough nods to city’s heritage to gently yet constantly remind you that you’re staying in one of the world’s most fun and colourful metropoles. www.amsterdam.regency.hyatt.com

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CHIANG MAI, THAILAND VILLA MAHABHIROM On the banks of the Ping River, the historic city of Chiang Mai - Northern Thailand’s largest city - dates back to the 13th century and was the capital of the independent Lanna Kingdom until 1558. Today, Chiang Mai strikes a fine balance between the traditional and the contemporary, the old heart of the city still retains its historic walls and moats, and the city’s long and leafy boulevards offer an alluring alternative to the Thai capital, Bangkok. Instead of traffic-choked urban sprawl, travellers find a picturesque downtown easily navigated on foot, where the air is clean and the climate mercifully cool. Amid the multitude of temple spires in the old town, barefoot monks in flame-coloured robes collect alms in the morning and street vendors hawk their wares by night. In complete contrast, a short bike or scooter ride out of the city soon leads to densely rainforested countryside interspersed with natural waterfalls.

On the road to the historic Wat Umong temple, the original seat of the Sri Lankan tradition of Buddhism in Lanna, lies Villa Mahabhirom, a new luxury bijou resort which opened last year. Conceptualised as a sophisticated yet comfortable boutique hotel, that threads history, culture, community, arts and craft with a sense of peace and wellbeing, Villa Mahabhirom comprises only 14 spacious traditional 14th century stilted teak Thai houses. Each of these historic dwellings was rescued from dereliction, meticulously and lovingly restored, and filled with objets d’art and bespoke furnishings. The owners, who have been friends since their childhood in Bangkok, have eclectic yet interesting tastes, and hence some of the accents and detailing ranges from French settees to gold enamel pieces from the Ayutthaya period. Each house features a private, open-air balcony overlooking the resort’s lush tropical gardens, and the intimacy and privacy of this stunning property genuinely lends itself to relaxation and calming reflection.

Though there are plenty of dining options in town, and chic Nimmanhaemin neighbourhood with its plentiful bars, cafés and restaurants is just 10 minutes away by car, be sure to stay at Villa Mahabhirom for dinner at least once. www.villamahabhirom.com

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STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN DOWNTOWN CAMPER Capital of Sweden, largest city in the Nordic region and one of the fastest growing commercial hubs in Europe, Stockholm oozes down-to-earth confidence and dynamism. Nestled between Lake Mälaren and the Baltic Sea, spread across fourteen islands connected by bridges and canals and surrounded by forests and abundant countryside, few cities on the planet can match Stockholm’s stunning natural setting. And, unsurprisingly, Stockholm has a long and proud history. Gamla Stan, the old city dating back to the 13th century, is one of the best-preserved medieval districts in Europe. Elsewhere, buildings and boulevards from the late 19th and early 20th centuries abound, giving the city elegance in spades. The combination of architectural marvels set in such a natural environment makes Stockholm a visually unique metropolis and a complete delight to explore. Though the visual experience alone should be enough to position the Swedish capital at the top of everyone’s city break list, it is the city’s contemporary design and fashion industries, as well as its cosmopolitan hospitality, café and restaurant culture, that allows Stockholm to stand globally alongside much larger international peers. Nowhere is the city’s sophistication more evident than the recently opened 494-room Downtown Camper, conceptualised by Swedish design practice Stylt Trampoli and owned by Nordic hotel company Scandic.

Downtown Camper’s location - on Brunkebergstorg Square slap bang in the centre - offers spectacular views of Stockholm’s most famous landmarks, including the Royal Castle, Stockholm City Theatre and Globen arena, and its close proximity to the city’s main shopping streets and cultural venues makes the hotel a veritable hub for urban exploration.

Accommodation comes in all shapes and sizes, from a 12m² “Cozy Single” with city views, to a 25m² “Double Sleep” window-less cabin with a king-size bed, spacious suites in three different sizes, and “Camper Co-Living” rooms which comprise adjoining bedrooms, central gathering areas and can sleep up to 12. A warm, earthy, nature-inspired theme runs through the interiors, complete with welcoming reading nooks, log-shaped bedside tables and pendant lamps reminiscent of a campfire. Crowning the hotel is the “Nest”, a private, residents-only rooftop wellness sanctuary, set against a backdrop of panoramic urban vistas, and featuring experience showers, heated pool, gym, sauna, yoga area and a juice and cocktail bar. www.scandichotels.com

HOLI During the ancient, annual Hindu ritual of Holi, also known as the “festival of colours�, participants throw brightly coloured powders at each other to celebrate the triumph of good over evil and mark the arrival of spring.

1-2 March 2018

PRIZE DRAW

WIN A THREE-NIGHT STAY ISLAND RESORT DOHA

11km from the heart of Qatar’s vibrant capital, via a luxury 25-minute catamaran crossing the crystal clear waters of the Arabian Gulf, lies an exclusive 13-hectare island with its own private 800-metre natural sandy beach, marina and reefs, which quite literally feels a world away from Doha. Welcome to Banana Island Resort Doha by Anantara - a paradise sanctuary offering world-class facilities and limitless activities providing relaxation, adventure, wellness and pure indulgence.

Guests hideaway on the island in true Arabian luxury in 141 rooms, suites, pool villas and over water villas, which set the scene for unforgettable holidays with family and friends. Leisure activities include snorkelling, scuba diving, kayaking, 8-pin bowling, a 9-hole putting course, tennis, four swimming pools and a VIP cinema. A variety of world-class international cuisines are served at eight different restaurants including Arabic, Mediterranean, Italian, beach barbeque and American diner style, while the resort’s sprawling onsite Anantara Spa – overlooking the Arabian Gulf’s glittering waters – offers a range of Thai-inspired treatments that coax the body, mind and spirit into beautiful balance. doha.anantara.com

Y IN A LUXURY PRIVATE VILLA ON BANANA

BY ANAN TARA IN THE ARABIAN GULF The winner of this prize will stay for three nights in a private two-bedroom sea view pool villa with personal pool, for two people, including return luxury limousine airport transfers from Doha International Airport (DOH) to Al Shyoukh terminal, catamaran transfers to Banana Island Resort Doha by Anantara, wi-fi, daily buffet breakfasts and dinners in Azraq restaurant, and a couples spa treatment at Anantara Spa.

To enter this prize draw please email your contact details (name, home city, email and mobile no.) to win @ TheCulturedTraveller.com Entrants will be added as subscribers to The Cultured Traveller's mailing list. The draw will take place after 31st May 2018 and the winner will be notified via email. This prize is not transferable, can be used anytime on weekdays or weekends before 30th December 2018 and is subject to availability when booking. Blackout periods apply during peak season and public holidays.

The Cultured Traveller will not share your contact details with third parties.

Mar-May 2018 The Cultured Traveller 47

ALEX BENASULI EXPLORES THE COLONIAL STREETS OF GRANADA IN NICARAGUA, AND IS UTTERLY ENCHANTED

BY ITS COLOURFUL 17TH CENTURY ARCHITECTURE, CRUMBLING COURTYARD GARDENS, ELABORATE MOORISH VILLAS AND UNIQUE FRONTIER-LIKE SPIRIT

GRANADA

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If Barcelona, S anymore, plan a cit Costa Rica’s e charmed by the o between Lake Nicarag blends history, cultu and res

San Francisco and Bangkok are not quite cutting it for you ty break in the Spanish-built former capital of Nicaragua, edgy northern neighbour, and you will undoubtedly leave oldest inhabited city in continental Latin America. Nestled gua and towering, dormant Mombacho Volcano, Granada ure and nature together with a burgeoning boutique hotel taurant scene, in one compact and individual destination

Mar-May 2017 The Cultured Traveller 51

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traddling the Caribbean and the Pacific, Nicaragua may not be the first place you’d normally consider for a fun, sun-filled vacation. Indeed, if you mention Nicaragua to friends you may get a mixed response. Some Nicara Nicaragu may be confused and require prompting as to where it actually is. Others might be slightly aghast, wary of the country’s violent 1980s revolution and subsequent economic collapse, which rendered Nicaragua a virtual no-go zone for decades. However, for those in the know, Nicaragua elicits nodding heads and deeply approving oohs and ahhs, because in recent years, after a generation as a forgotten backwater, the largest country in Central America is having its long-awaited moment and has become something of a travel hotspot, its affordability increasing its allure. Nicaragua is now hip, appearing on list after list amongst those in the

know as one of the hottest new destinations on the planet.

Surfers flock to its hundreds of kilometres of ruggedly pristine Pacific coastline. Meanwhile the country’s Caribbean side offers white powdery sand beaches, calmer waters and a more tropical temperament.

Boasting many of the same attractions as Costa Rica in terms of beaches and nature, but with a fraction of the tourist numbers, Nicaragua is a veritable paradise for the intrepid traveller in search of unspoilt natural environments, and warm hospitable people, its generation of criollos (people of Spanish descent), and mestizos (people of mixed European and Indigenous descent) contributing much to its conservative yet colourful character. Located in the middle of the country, Granada is indisputably the best place to

NICARAGUA IS A VERITABLE PARADISE FOR THE INTREPID TRAVELLER IN SEARCH OF UNSPOILT NATURAL ENVIRONMENTS AND WARM HOSPITABLE PEOPLE

immerse oneself in this beautiful, enchanting and welcoming land.

Getting to Granada is relatively easy from Europe or North America, courtesy of a host of American carriers which fly direct from Houston, Atlanta and Miami – the latter being little more than two hours away. Forty-five minutes-drive from the Nicaraguan capital of Managua, the vibrant colours, arresting architecture and energetic street life of Granada have made it the metropolitan star of the nation’s growing tourist industry, drawing rising numbers of adventurous visitors to its characterful streets, which positively ooze laid back charm.

Alongside Antigua in Guatemala, Granada was, for centuries since the Spanish conquest in the 16th century, one of the

most important cities in Central America, a flourishing center of commerce, culture and government, and a showcase of New World riches. Francisco Hernández de Córdoba, the legendary Spanish conquistador, decimated the thriving indigenous population and founded Granada in 1524, which is considered to be one of the first European cities in mainland America. Named after the medieval Andalusian Granada in Spain, Nicaragua’s Granada was historically known as “La Gran Sultana”, an ode to the distinctly Moorish appearance of the city, with its prevalence of wrought iron detailing, oriental lines and concealed open air inside courtyards.

Granada is one of the first cities in the Americas to have been laid out in a grid system, making it relatively easy to navigate on foot. The best place to start soaking up the city’s Mar-May 2017 The Cultured Traveller 53

compact center is Parque Central or central park, which provides a snapshot of daily life in Granada. This tree-filled green space in the heart of Granada is a colourful tableau of local life, flanked on all sides by historic, low slung predominantly white and cream buildings, complete with multiple arches and decorative flourishes. The bright yellow neo-classical Granada Cathedral, originally built in 1583 and rebuilt in 1856, dominates. Palm, ficus and mango trees surround a central fountain. Children play while seniors sit on park benches exchanging gossip.

Locals come from neighbouring towns to sell indigenous crafts. Street food aficionados will love vigorón – a mélange of chicharrón (fried pork rinds), mashed yucca and pickled cabbage served on a plantain leaf – and quesillos, essentially a Nicaraguan cheesy tortilla, served with pickled onions and sour cream. Late afternoon and during sunset, after the heat of the day has past, is when Parque Central really comes alive, morphing into a veritable merry-go-round of colours, sounds, smells and sights, reminiscent of a Gabriel García Márquez novel.

On the western side of Parque Central, brightly painted horse-drawn carriages congregate, offering tours of Granada. While most drivers are reasonably knowledgeable of their city’s history, some vetting may be in order, particularly if an English-speaking guide is required. Traversing the narrow streets by horse-drawn carriage is the perfect way to get the lay of the land before exploring the city on foot.

There are seven main churches in Granada. Apart from the cathedral, Iglesia La Merced, dating back to 1534, is probably the most worth visiting. While the mix of neo classical and baroque design is noteworthy, it is the view from the bell tower that’s the showstopper. Providing stunning views across the entire city, and with the ever present watchful Mombacho Volcano in the distance on one side and Lake Nicaragua on another, visiting La Merced is not be missed.

Back on street level, Granada’s fascinating past and pulsing present coexist seamlessly. Street after street of buildings, painted every colour of the rainbow, add joy and light-heartedness to the city’s period architecture. Every church, square and corner has a different story to tell. At various points in time, Granada was the capital of Nicaragua and one of the wealthiest cities in Central America. Hence gracious homes, grand civic buildings and impressive religious landmarks abound. However, Granada was also invaded and burned to the ground by pirates and RATHAUS 54 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2017

foreign mercenaries and rebuilt a number of times. Despite this, there is scarcely a building newer than the early 1900s.

Refreshingly, global retail chains are virtually non-existent in Granada. It is this authenticity and throwback to the past, yet at the same time being a living, breathing and bustling town, that makes Granada so appealing and unique. Granada’s location, between a towering dormant volcano and an expansive lake, also makes it the ideal staging post from which to embark upon the multitude of nature-oriented eco and adventure trips on offer.

Mombacho Volcano, rising to almost 1,400 metres, is visible from almost everywhere in Granada. Although not extinct, it last erupted in 1570, so chances are you will be safe. There is a visitor center at the peak, from where guides can be hired to lead hikes, ranging from easy/moderate to the four-hour Puma trail which is challenging yet exhilarating. The peak lies within a mystical cloud forest national park that occupies much of the volcano’s sides and top. It can be blazing hot and sunny in Granada – and most of the way up coffee plantations and fruit farms mark the ascent to Mombacho’s peak – but

wet and cool at the top, so plan accordingly. When the clouds part, revealing dramatic views of the valley below, towards Granada and Lake Nicaragua beyond, the sight is nothing short of breath taking. On the day I hiked around the peak there were more clouds than views, but I still loved it.

A trip to Mombacho can be combined with a sedate tour of a coffee plantation or adrenaline-charged zip-lining across the top of the forest canopy. Zip-lining entails mounting platforms built on to trees or perches at different heights, being strapped into a harness attached to a cable, and then effectively flying up to a few hundred metres from platform to platform. I need not have been as nervous as I was. The attendants were professional, my safety being of paramount importance to them. The experience was nothing short of thrilling.

At some point Lake Nicaragua (or Lake Cocibolca, as it’s also known) will also beckon, since it literally sits at the base of Granada. However, this is no ordinary lake. For starters, it is massive. To put it into context, Lake Nicaragua, is the largest freshwater lake in Central America and the twentieth largest

Mar-May 2017 The Cultured Traveller 57

NICARAGUA IS NOW HIP, APPEARING ON LIST AFTER LIST AMONGST THOSE IN THE KNOW AS ONE OF THE HOTTEST NEW DESTINATIONS ON THE PLANET

in the world, covering an area of more than 3,000 square miles. It has a various unique eco systems and is even home to rare freshwater sharks. In many ways the lake is more like an ocean, with water as far as the eye can see, prone to wind driven rough seas and violent storms. It is from the expanse of the lake, and the various river systems that feed into it from both the Caribbean and the Pacific, that pirates preyed upon and plundered Granada in the city’s past.

Close to Granada and the low-lying areas of Mombacho, is an area of Lake Nicaragua known as Las Isletas. Here, more than 360 tiny islands were formed when Mombacho blew its cone thousands of years ago. Today this shoreline-hugging archipelago offers a natural paradise of calm waters and wetlands, all teeming with fish and bird

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life. I never before fancied myself as a bird watcher, but after a few days staying on one of Las Isletas’ private islands I soon became one. Watching flocks of herons, ospreys and cormorants taking flight, swooping down for fish, and hanging out in their natural habitat, with the silhouette of Mombacho Volcano in the background, was a highlight of my vacation. An afternoon spent on the water weaving through Las Isletas, either on a motorboat with a guide or in a kayak, is also highly recommended.

There is no shortage of truly one-of-a-kind mini excursions which one can take from Granada. Thirty minutes or so in the opposite direction from Lake Nicaragua, lies the otherworldly Laguna de Apoyo, part of a national park with steep forested slopes giving way to a multitude of access

points for swimming. This natural wonder is essentially a freshwater lake in the caldera of an ancient extinct volcano that suffered a massive eruption some 20,000 years ago.

Approximately 6km in diameter and 175m deep, the lagoon is about 150m lower than the level of the surrounding plateau, and its warm and mineral-infused waters reputedly possess healing and medicinal qualities. There are aquatic ecosystems at the bottom that have yet to be documented.

The lake was first filled by underground sources and continues to be replenished naturally, its waters now having been an important part of indigenous culture for millennia.

An afternoon spent on the shores of Laguna de Apoyo is an exceptionally blissful experience.

For a bird’s eye view of Laguna de Apoyo, make for the town

of Catarina, famed for beautiful handcrafted polished wood furniture and the best tropical plant nurseries in the country. The 180-degree vantage point from the town reveals the full majesty of Laguna de Apoyo in all her glory. To see the bright blue waters ringed by the rim of the former volcano is spectacular. Even if you want to pass on the swimming beaches below, the view from Catarina alone is worth a visit.

THE VIBRANT COLOURS, ARRES ARCHITECTURE AND ENERGETI LIFE OF GRANADA HAVE MADE METROPOLITAN STAR OF THE N GROWING TOURIST INDUSTRY

Twenty-five km southeast from Managua, is one of Nicaragua's most active volcanoes and the country’s most visited sights. Masaya is one the few places in the world today where you can drive up to the rim of an active volcano and see fluid red and orange basaltic lava gurgling away. A tour of Masaya Volcano at night is invariably a highlight of any visit to Nicaragua. Dusk comes early in Nicaragua, so if you arrive at the entrance to Masaya Volcano National Park at 5pm, you will be back in Granada in time for dinner.

Whilst the natural setting of Granada and its environs sets the city apart as a standout destination for both naturalists and adventure junkies alike, it is the recent opening of a variety of new designer boutique hotels and restaurants that has propelled Granada on to so many travel hot lists. Whilst compared to its surroundings Granada may seem busy, it is at its heart a very relaxed city, tempered by the tropical climate and a languid pace of life. Relaxing in the interior courtyard of your bijou hotel or rented house, sipping a freshly squeezed fruit juice or cold Toña beer, is essentially what a vacation in Granada is all about. Once the midday heat has subsided, it is time to again explore the enticing, historic metropolis, and uncover new neighbourhoods and local watering holes without any particular agenda. This is the beauty of visiting Granada – going off-piste, being a little foot loose and fancy-free and expecting the unexpected.

Trust me, you won’t be disappointed. On the contrary, Granada will surely captivate you, like it did me.

I had few expectations of my trip to Granada, but boy was I blown away by the city’s intense charm and beauty, as well as the sheer wealth of activities on offer.

Visiting the 17th century former capital of Nicaragua had the wanderlust excitement of backpacking, tempered with hip and comfy lodgings. My time spent in Granada left me yearning for more trips like that – less shop, spend and luxury, and more adventure, heart and soul.

Granada and Nicaragua, I will be back.

ALSTERARKADEN

STING IC STREET IT THE NATION’S

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STREET AFTER STREET OF BUILDINGS, PAINTED EVERY COLOUR OF THE RAINBOW, ADD JOY AND LIGHT-HEARTEDNESS TO THE CITY’S PERIOD ARCHITECTURE

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GRANADA STAY TRIBAL LOS PATIOS JICARO LODGE ISLETA EL ESPINO HOTEL PLAZA COLÓN

TRIBAL

STAY TRIBAL One property more than any other has helped to put Granada on the tourist map. The brainchild of New York restaurateur Jean-Marc Houmard and his business partner Yvan Cussigh, and feeling a little like their own, personal holiday retreat, Tribal is tucked away on a quiet residential street, a stone’s throw from the main square.

A riot of colour, the hotel’s design aesthetic can best be described as global ethnic chic, inspired by their travels to India, Bali, Thailand, Morocco, Turkey and Kenya.

Contemporary art works and photographs are liberally distributed throughout. The furniture and pottery has been made by local artisans. Fashion and fine art magazines beg to be flicked through.

The five eclectically-decorated bedrooms and two junior suites surround an open-air patio with a photogenic, compact splash pool at its center. Whilst rooms are intimate all have an indoor/outdoor feel, with private terraces, air-con and queen-sized beds.

White t-shirt and blue jeans-clad staff are on hand to spoil guests with expertly made cocktails and nibbles, served to sultan-like divans and loungers that adorn the public spaces. Cussigh literally lives around the corner and is onsite almost all the time - his attention to detail and panache as a host ensures that guests are always in excellent hands. www.tribal-hotel.com

TRIBAL

ISLETA EL ESPINO There is something to be said about being able to enjoy pristine nature on a tropical island while at the same time being no more than a 30-minute combined boat and taxi ride away from the historic colonial city of Granada. A small, off-grid eco-friendly hotel powered by the sun, that takes great pride in its integration within its natural surroundings not to mention its relationship with the local community, Isleta el Espino is a more laid-back and chilled accommodation option amongst the Isletas of Granada.

Thoughtfully designed using native materials, while supporting local artisans and community-run crafts projects, Isleta el Espino has five guest rooms each featuring a private deck and offering spectacular lake views, and the lodge features a swimming pool, yoga platform, free kayaks, spa services and an intimate bar. A small team of local women, led by a warm grandmotherly type, prepare all meals, with freshly 66 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2018

ISLETA EL ESPINO

caught fish featuring prominently on the changing daily menu, and delicious smoothies made from home-grown produce including dragon fruit, mango and passion fruit.

Homemade granola, yogurt, jams and bread are served every morning. They even make their own dark chocolate! Words cannot adequately describe the soothing effect of having the silhouette of Mombacho Volcano constantly in front of you. www.isletaelespino.com LOS PATIOS Whereas Tribal tends towards maximalism, the city’s other boutique hotel triumph veers towards a more pared-back yet still classy design ethos. At Los Patios, its Danish owners have skilfully combined minimalist Scandinavian design with traditional Nicaraguan ambiance, creating an altogether sleek and inviting place to base oneself in the heart of Granada.

Opened in 2011 and situated on a quiet residential street about 10 minutes-walk from Granada’s landmark cathedral, once inside the bright blue hotel, it feels like the building goes on and on, as one walks from one airy patio to another - the multiple outdoor spaces giving Los Patios its name.

Sleek concrete-framed sofas, book-lined shelves and cosy seating abound, nicely juxtaposing order with relaxation. French doors from the library lead to a patio with swinging hammock-style chairs that’s open to the sky. Five bedrooms are spread out throughout the property, giving guests privacy and space. High ceilings, made from local cane, give all rooms a light and open feel. Bathrooms are modern are generously proportioned with Hansgrohe fittings, walk-in showers and concrete-topped vanities. Los Patios’ best room is undoubtedly the spacious second floor Balcony Suite, which boasts views from its private terrace over the Granada’s rooftops towards Lake Nicaragua and Mombacho volcano. www.lospatiosgranada.com JICARO LODGE Just a 15-minute boat ride southeast of Granada, and consisting of around 365 small tropical islands formed 20,000 years ago by a massive volcanic explosion, Las Isletas de Granada is a unique place where prominent Nicaraguan have vacation homes and a local fishing community makes its living. Of the vast array of accommodation on offer across the islands, 9-bedroom Jicaro Lodge - winner of National Geographic’s Lodges

HOTEL PLAZA COLÓN

LOS PATIOS

of the World award - is almost certainly the most exclusive option.

Almost all the lodge’s buildings are made from recycled wood, and the property prides itself on its low environmental impact credentials. Coconut palms and mango trees naturally help to conceal private lakeside casitas and a yoga sala. An open-air spa lies below a lush forest canopy. A gorgeous infinity pool and a variety of exposed and covered lounge areas, many boasting views over the water towards the volcano, provide plenty of nooks and crannies in which to cosy up, unwind and relax. Staff look after guests’ every need with care and humility.

Either stay onsite and enjoy the many wonders of the property and rich eco habitat of Las Isletas, or use the lodge as a staging point for all the wonderful day trips that make up the wider Granada area. www.jicarolodge.com

JICARO LODGE

HOTEL PLAZA COLÓN Before the proliferation of boutique properties opened in Granada, Hotel Plaza Colón was arguably the best place to rest one’s head in the heart of the highly walkable old quarter, and even today, it remains one of the only full-service hotels in town, occupying a prime position on one side of Granada’s Parque Central. Behind the hotel are Granada’s best museums, oldest churches and monasteries.

Hotel Plaza Colón was previously a private colonial-era mansion, and thankfully the hotel remains faithful to its historic roots, complete with creaking wooden floorboards and antique ceiling fans. A good-sized swimming pool occupies much of the central courtyard, surrounded by shady verandas and lounging nooks, and provides a welcome oasis from the city’s heat and noise.

The hotel’s 27 bedrooms of high ceilings, whitewashed walls and tiled or polished wooden floors retain the grand proportions of its former incarnation, are furnished with colonial furniture and hung with original contemporary paintings. It’s well worth paying a little extra for a room overlooking Parque Central, since these come with broad balconies and cedar wood rocking chairs – perfect for front row views onto Granada’s lively scene. Friendly staff and a delicious breakfast buffet serve to make staying here even sweeter. www.hotelplazacolon.com

Mar-May 2018 The Cultured Traveller 69

SEE PARQUE CENTRAL Granada’s main square is a verdant oasis in the middle of the city. Surrounded on all sides by historical buildings, and dominated at the east side by the city’s main Cathedral de Granada, this central plaza is the perfect place from which to orient oneself. It is also one of the best places to watch the world go by and be immersed in Central American daily life, either from a park bench or one of the many cafés that ring the perimeter. The horse and carriages that congregate at one end of the park are an excellent way to quickly see Granada’s main sights.

Ave Vega, Granada IGLESIA LA MERCED Probably the most beautiful church in Granada, La Merced is just a few blocks to the west of Parque Central. Originally completed in 1539 but rebuilt a number of times since, La Merced is fronted by a beautiful, if slightly crumbling baroque façade dating back to 1781-1783. Inside, a simple although somewhat austere mostly white interior houses a number of religious icons, including an important image of the Virgen de Fatima. The adjacent bell tower offers impressive 360-degree views over Granada’s tiled rooftops towards Mombacho Volcano and Lake Nicaragua. Visit Iglesia La Merced at sunset for the most sublime light.

Calle Real & Avenida 14 de Septiembre, Granada

IGLESIA LA MERCED

CONVENTO Y MUSEO SAN FRANCISCO Almost certainly Granada’s most striking building and fronted by a stunning pale blue façade, Iglesia San Francisco was originally constructed in 1585, was subsequently burned to the ground by pirates, and was later rebuilt by William Walker in 1868. In 1989 the historic monastery was restored, and is now home to a beautiful museum which chronicles Granada’s religious 70 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2018

PARQUE CENTRAL

history. Museum highlights include top-notch Primitivist art and the Zapatera statuary, two regiments of black-basalt statues looming above large men, carved between AD 800 and 1200, then left behind on the ritual volcanic island of Isla Zapatera in Lake Nicaragua.

Calle Cervantes, Granada

CONVENTO Y MUSEO SAN FRANCISCO

FUNDACIÓN CASA DE LOS TRES MUNDOS Founded in 1986 by Austrian actor and author Dietmar Schönherr, and Nicaraguan poet, priest and politician Ernesto Cardenal, the Fundación Casa de los Tres Mundos is an international cultural center that initiates, supports and promotes cultural projects in Nicaragua and Central America via artistic, musical and educational activities. The foundation also finances and coordinates an integrative rural development project in Malacatoya.

Housed in the historic 1720 Casa de los Leones building, with a beautiful neoclassical façade, at the entrance, a board lists forthcoming special events including poetry readings, classical ballet, folkloric dance and free movies. The entrance fee also includes access to the mansion. www.facebook.com/casatresmundos CHOCOMUSEO When the Mayans discovered nutrient-rich chocolate 2,000 years ago - and made it available to all classes of its society, rich and poor alike - little did they know that it would become a coveted, worldwide superfood.

Providing amusement for the whole family, plus, of course, chocolate lovers, Granada’s ChocoMuseo offers an immersive overview of the history, cultivation and production of cacao and chocolate. At one of the museum’s workshops, visitors can also participate in the complete chocolate-making process, including roasting and grinding cacao, and making chocolate bars and drinks. A café and gift store complete the sweet experience. www.chocomuseo.com/granada

CHOCOMUSEO

TASTE ESPRESSONISTA By far away and away the most cutting-edge eating option in Granada is Espressonista speciality coffee bar and restaurant, located in the residential district of Xalteva. Here multilingual Nicaraguan owner Andrés has created an eclectic and somewhat avant-garde space, that reflects both local and European inspirations. The restaurant serves excellent ceviche and fresh pastas together with heartier dishes like Ossobuco and daily specials.

Desserts are worth the calories. Also serving some of best hand-crafted cocktails in town, Espressonista is an all-around winner, and the only eatery in town that offers such a sophisticated yet relaxed ambience that it wouldn’t be out of place in a Paris. www.facebook.com/pg/espressonistacoffee EL TERCER OJO Located in the middle of Calle La Calzada, Granada’s main bar and restaurant area, El Tercer Ojo offers well turned-out and innovative global cuisine focussing on Middle Eastern, Asian and Latin flavours. With indoor and outdoor and indoor seating, a lively bar and frequent live music, El Tercer Ojo is very much an evening entertainment complex. The bar, restaurant tables and lounge area are organised within a covered, al fresco courtyard, around the perimeter of which a number of bijou boutiques sell the wares of some of the city’s contemporary local designers.

Whilst El Tercer Ojo can get quite busy, there’s almost always plenty of room for everyone to chill! www.eltercerojonicargua.com

ESPRESSONISTA

ESPRESSONISTA

THE GARDEN CAFÉ Particularly appealing for breakfast and lunch, and mostly serving healthy fare, The Garden Café is all about sustainability and creating a productive community for tourists, regulars and employees. Breakfast is a combination of Western and Nicaraguan staples, including nacatamal - traditional Nicaraguan cornmeal 72 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2018

EL TERCER OJO

RESTAURANTE EL ZAGUÁN

NACATAMAL

tamal filled with chicken or pork, rice, mint, potato and chilies, all steamed in a banana leaf. The lunch menu consists of salads, wraps and tasty sandwiches on artisan breads, together with a variety of fresh juices. Do try salpicón - a typical Nicaraguan home meal.

Whilst The Garden Café’s food is incredibly tasty, it’s the setting amidst a lush garden-like interior patio that really makes the place special. www.gardencafegranada.com RESTAURANTE EL ZAGUÁN Though lacking a little in the ambience department, large yet somehow inviting El Zaguán, just behind the cathedral, undoubtedly serves the best piece of meat in town. Nicaragua is a major beef exporter and it is easy to understand why - the quality and tastiness of the nation’s meat is second to none. El Zaguán specialises in locally sourced melt-in-your-mouth steaks, flame-grilled before your eyes and served with a variety of sauces and sides. Some hearty chicken mains, rather tasty fish dishes and a good wine list round out the menu. Whilst El Zaguán is very old school it’s popular with tourists so do make reservations. www.facebook.com/elzaguannic MANSION DE CHOCOLAT Located in the center of Granada and housed in the city’s largest surviving intact colonial mansion and former presidential residence, Mansion De Chocolat is an eclectic, sprawling chocolate-themed hotel complete with a “Choco Spa”, extensive gardens, courtyards, a good-sized swimming pool and a rooftop yoga studio. Large shared balconies provide residents with an ideal vantage point from which to experience spectacular sunsets over Mombacho Volcano. Mansion De Chocolat’s extensive, all-you-can-eat chocolate-themed buffet breakfast spread is well worth the indulgence at least once, and if you pay an extra five dollars you can stay on and use the pool all day. www.facebook.com/pg/mansiondechocolate

THE GARDEN CAFÉ

LA CALZADA

SIP ENCUENTROS An atmospheric rooftop bar, pool club and hotel all rolled into one, set within an attractive colonial house, Encuentros attracts a cool mix of locals, tourists and expats all looking to have a boogie and let their hair down in a relaxed environment. Guest DJs preside over the weekends and provide a funky house music soundtrack. There are plenty of areas to chill for those wishing to have a less hectic night. Cocktails are tasty, reasonably priced and served quickly. And whilst the crowd at Encuentros tends to be a little younger, everyone is made to feel welcome and the atmosphere is fun and buzzy. www.encuentrosclub.com LA CALZADA Pedestrian friendly Calle La Calzada is very much Granada’s main street, is closed off to automobile traffic and lined with restaurants and outdoor cafés. In the evenings the whole place springs to life, and literally everywhere fills up with locals and tourists alike, who come to relax, chat, eat, drink and watch the world go by. There are all sorts of venues on La Calzada, ranging from civilised and sedate to lively and loud, and even some which verge on rowdy. The bar restaurant at Toritos Hotel is worth checking-out, and becomes a bustling hub at the weekends, filled with visitors and Nicaraguans feasting on scrummy paella and drinking moreish Sangria (www.hotel-toritos.com/en/bar-restaurant).

Calle La Calzada, Granada CIUDAD LOUNGE A little off the beaten track, anyone passing Ciudad Lounge might be forgiven for mistaking the venue for a shop, because almost everything is for sale. Name-checked by The New York Times as the “most exciting restaurant in Granada”, and run by husband and wife team Naomi and William (aka Chef Puro), inside the space is filled with an eclectic mix of timber tables and 74 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2018

CIUDAD LOUNGE

BOCADILLOS

CAFÉ LAS FLORES

chairs, ceramic vases, sculptures and statues, with swathes of blood red fabric hanging off the backs of barstools. A restaurant, wine bar, rum tasting room and cigar lounge all rolled into one makes Ciudad Lounge perfect for dinner, a glass of vino or learning about Nicaragua’s premier rum, Flor de Caña. www.ciudadlounge.com BOCADILLOS With friendly staff, a warm and welcoming atmosphere, a daily happy hour offering two-for-one drinks and a great roof terrace affording patrons spectacular views across Granada, there are ample reasons why Bocadillos has a reputation for being one of the coolest places in town for regulars and visitors alike to drop anchor. Attached to boutique Hotel Casa San Francisco, Bocadillos has both inside and garden seating, plus café-style tables on the sidewalk if you just fancy a coffee. A nice variety of small plates are perfect for an afternoon snack or light dinner, whilst you’re unlikely to stop at just one of Bocadillos’ delicious signature cocktails, hand-crafted using freshly squeezed juices. www.bocadillosgranada.com CAFÉ LAS FLORES Since coffee came to Nicaragua in the mid 1800s it has played a significant role in the country’s economy and environment.

Today coffee is a big deal in Nicaragua. Locally produced coffee has a medium to smooth body, oozes rich yet subtle flavours, has a balanced sweetness, and its nutty bouquet often exhibits notes of vanilla. Café Las Flores is one of Nicaragua’s finest coffee companies, established over three generations. Of the brand’s many countrywide outposts, the Granada location, next to Hotel Plaza Colón, serves excellent cakes as well as one of the best cups of coffee in the city. www.cafelasflores.com/our-stores

SPEND TÍO ANTONIO HAMACA Located adjacent to Café de las Sonrisas (Smiles Coffee) in Xalteva, a few blocks from Parque Central, Tío Antonio specialises in producing hand-crafted, well-constructed hammocks in all shapes, sizes and a rainbow of colours. The shop is really an extension of his onsite factory, and visitors can receive a tour and an explanation of the hammock making process.

Many of the staff of the neighbouring café as well as the hammock makers are deaf and/or mute, and it is refreshing to see a thriving business employing people with disabilities. The tiled floors and soaring wood beamed ceilings only add to the atmosphere of this rather special shop. www.tioantonio.org

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MOMBACHO CIGAR COMPANY Nicaragua is currently the second largest cigar producer in the world, ahead of Cuba. Named after the prominent volcano overlooking the 500-year-old colonial city, and housed within a stunning, renovated colonial mansion, Mombacho produces and sells quality cigars, and is the only producer in the country to use 100 percent Nicaraguan tobacco.

Mombacho’s cigars have won numerous awards, and the company prides itself on sustainable development and treating employees like family. The brand’s Granada headquarters is exquisite, and a tour of the grounds and cigar making process is fascinating, highly recommended and a must for cigar aficionados. www.mombachocigars.com SOY NICA Made of Nicaraguan cowhide and pigskin, Soy Nica’s premium leather bags fuse Danish design with a taste of the tropics to great effect. Soy Nica only sources leather from free range cows, never removing imperfections like scars and bruises. Each piece has its own story and charm, as unique as the individual characters of the people who buy them.

Available in totes, cross-body bags, backpacks, purses and everything in between, Soy Nica’s designs come in a vast array of colours, including bright orange, black and red. Buy Soy Nica at the Nicaraguan brand’s charming store on Calle La Calzada, in front of Carlos A. Bravo School. www.soynica.dk 78 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2018

ROOTS & SOUL

SHANTALL LACAYO

SHANTALL LACAYO Coming from a family of artists and having spent her childhood surrounded by creativity and eccentricity in Managua’s Museo-Galería Genesis artistic center, Shantall Lacayo learned the art of fashion design at Argentina’s Escuela de Moda, before becoming a 2010 contestant and finalist on Project Runway Latin America. Today Lacayo is a highly regarded designer in Nicaragua, and crafts clothing for modern, confident and strong women. From the street to the boardroom, Lacayo’s fun prints and pattern cut outs are evocative of life in her tropical home nation. Shop for Shantall Lacayo at her boutique at #2 Villa Fontana Norte Casa in Managua, the Nicaraguan capital. www.shantalllacayo.com ROOTS & SOUL Inspired by travelling, nature and surfing, and based in Amsterdam but sourced in Nicaragua, the throws and bags produced

by Roots & Soul are the perfect travel companions during any trip. Drawn to Nicaragua by their passion for yoga, surfing and beach life, Roots & Soul’s founders, Bart and Flora, moved to Central America in 2013, leading them to discover the craftsmanship and beauty of the country’s artisan goods. In collaboration with local craftsmen, the duo started their business in 2014, and now produce throws, bags, espadrilles and a host of other travel apparel. Honouring the natural, organic roots of Nicaraguan goods, no two items are the same and everything is handmade. www.rootsandsoul.co Mar-May 2018 The Cultured Traveller 81

LAS FALLAS Involving masses of fireworks and the burning of giant puppets, every neighbourhood in the Spanish city of Valencia funds the construction of its own, huge wood and papier-mâché falla at the centre of Las Fallas.

15-19 March 2018

Empire Suite

The St. Regis Doha, Qatar

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A

t the beginning of the 20th century, as John Jacob Astor’s hotel was going up on the corner of Fifth Avenue and 55th Street, Astor was stuck for a name for what was to become his hospitality swansong.

During Astor's stay with his brother-in-law on a beautiful lake in the Adirondack Mountains in upstate New York, Astor's niece offered a solution, “Uncle Jack, why don't you call it after this lake?” After doing a little research, Astor discovered that the lake was named after a 17th century French monk, Jean-François Régis, who was known for his kindness and hospitality to travellers, as well as and his care for the poor and marginalised. The monk was recognised as a saint by the Roman Catholic Church in the 18th century. Astor thought, what better name for his new hotel, the St. Regis. And so the hospitality legend began.

By the time the Trowbridge and Livingston-designed St. Regis opened in 1905, its construction had cost more than USD 5.5 million, an unheard-of sum at the time. It was also the tallest hotel in New York, standing at 19 storeys high, and was widely described as the most richly furnished and opulent lodgings in the world. When the St. Regis opened, the daily room rate was USD 5.00.

Astor spared no expense in his furnishing the St. Regis: floors and hallways were paved with marble from the quarries of Caen in Normandy. Louis XV furniture filled the rooms. Stunning Waterford crystal chandeliers hung from the ceilings. Antique tapestries and great works of art adorned the walls. Beautiful oriental rugs lay on the floors, and 3,000 leather-bound, gold-tooled books filled the oak shelves of the hotel’s library. Two beautiful burnished bronze doors marked the entrance, the hotel soon set high new hospitality standards, and consequently the St. Regis hosted some of the most celebrated and prestigious parties.

After divorcing his wife with whom he had two children, Colonel Astor shocked New York society by marrying a 19-year old lady, Madeline. After their wedding, they left New York to honeymoon in Europe. Unfortunately, their return trip was on the doomed Titanic, and Astor gave up his seat on a lifeboat for his pregnant young wife. Astor was last seen trying to free his dog from the ship's kennels.

Their son, J. J. Astor VI was born a couple of months after his father died, and was nicknamed the Titanic Baby.

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COLONEL JOHN JACOB ASTOR, FOUNDER OF ST. REGIS

THE FIRST ST. REGIS HOTEL, NEW YORK

THE ST. REGIS NEW YORK

After Colonel Astor’s death, his son Vincent sold the St. Regis to Benjamin N. Duke, and the St. Regis continued to thrive. Salvador Dali, his wife Gala and their pet opossum stayed at the hotel every winter from 1966 to 1973. Some other well-known guests included Alfred Hitchcock, Bing Crosby, Judy Garland, Liza Minelli, Ethel Merman, Dustin Hoffman, Tony Curtis, Vidal Sassoon, Frank Sinatra and Tony Bennett. Mick Jagger had his 30th birthday party at the St. Regis.

After World War II, the St. Regis underwent a series of other owners until the ITT Sheraton Corporation of America acquired it in the mid 1960s. In 1988 the hotel was declared a designated landmark by the New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission. In May 2016, it was announced that an investment fund from Qatar offered a billion dollars for the St. Regis hotels in New York and San Francisco. In the end, only the hotel in San Francisco was sold for a cool USD 175 million.

Today, the St. Regis in New York continues to be one of the world’s most revered hotel addresses, and John Jacob Astor’s hospitality legacy lives on. It is against this intensely historic backdrop that I was curious to see how the renowned hospitality brand had been reimagined in Doha.

First-time travellers to Doha, the capital of the world’s richest country, would be forgiven for mistaking the city as a little aloof. While its regional metropolitan peers have a clear semblance about what they are (just take one look at Dubai – positively oozing glitz, glamour and wealth), the Qatari capital is, to some extent, still searching for its footing, as it carves out its identity amidst a geopolitical climate that remains tense, since a June 2017 blockade and trade embargo against the tiny Gulf state was imposed by Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, the U.A.E and Egypt. But delve deeper.

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Wander through the capital’s Souq Waqif, or ‘Standing Market’, and you’d be fooled into thinking you’re in the middle of an authentic Arabic bazaar, complete with a cacophonous riot of sounds, sights, smells…and even camels.

The souq is indeed an atmospheric place to spend a Thursday night and kick-start a weekend in Doha. The city’s iconic I.M. Pei-designed Museum of Islamic Art (MIA) stands slap-bang across the street, located at one end of Doha’s graceful seven-kilometre waterfront Corniche, and could be straight out of one of Europe’s great cities – beautifully-constructed, fastidiously-executed and lovingly maintained.

Sitting on its own island close to the traditional dhow harbour, the MIA is currently Doha’s greatest artistic magnet – soon to be in close competition with the new Jean Nouvel-designed Qatar National Museum opening just down the road, which takes the tumbling shape of a desert rose. While at Katara Cultural 90 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2018

Village, the city’s planners have cleverly executed a snapshot of Qatari life, interspersed with Arabic history and a touch of ancient Rome.

With the 2022 FIFA World Cup looming, hospitality expansion and development continue at warp speed – although, on the whole, the city falls somewhat short when it comes to premium hospitality, since many of Doha’s five-star hotels lack European levels of class. Happily, sophistication and decorum prevail in a handful of the city’s top hospitality establishments, of which the supremely-refined St. Regis Doha is the newest, largest and most lavishly-appointed beach resort hotel you’ll find in the country.

Happily, sophistication and decorum prevail in a handful of the city’s top hospitality establishments, of which the supremely-refined St. Regis Doha is the newest, largest, and most lavishly-appointed resort hotel you’ll find in this city-state.

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Situated within Al Gassar resort, between Doha’s heritage sites and the city’s business hub, and adjacent to Katara Cultural Village, the 336-room St. Regis Doha is an imposing hotel which utterly dominates the beautifully manicured grounds in which it is situated. Standing tall either side of the hotel’s driveway are giant 12-ton 14-metre Oryx sculptures, designed by Ellen Hlavata and fashioned in stainless steel by the renowned Foibos Design Lab. At the top of the driveway, the imposing edifice oozes opulence, timeless elegance and luxury from the moment one sets foot in the grand lobby.

Lavish surroundings and a peaceful atmosphere are complemented by more than ten different restaurants (including an award-winning Hakkasan and two Gordon Ramsey outposts), a stylish jazz club, a residents-only private beach, heated outdoor Olympic-sized pool and a blissful Remède spa. In harmony with the hotel’s extensive leisure facilities is an inimitable butler service, a hallmark

of The St. Regis Doha experience, and available 24/7 via WhatsApp to fulfil any guest request at literally any hour.

A bank of floor-to-ceiling windows stand sentinel the length of the corridor leading up to my lodgings, offering spectacular vistas of West Bay’s gleaming skyline. At the end, a pair of imposing dark oak doors mark the entrance to my home for the next three nights, Empire Suite 944, and a plush abode it is. In keeping with the traditions of one of the world’s most elegant and refined hospitality brands, the suite’s interior décor is understated and unfussy, yet the overall effect is one of grandness and sophistication.

Large geometric rectangles of marble and onyx adorn the entryway floor in a complex shadow-play that offsets the neutral palette of the space. To the right of this foyer is one of the master suites, while to the left, a corridor of 94 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2018

Arabesque arches leads to a dining nook, powder room, large lounge with a wall of floor-to-ceiling windows and, at the end, the largest of the two bedrooms en-suite. The dual-aspect sleeping quarters fill opposite corners of the tower and give way to stunning views across the water towards West Bay and The Pearl-Qatar. In each, a huge bed, oversized chaise, desk, dresser and plenty of wardrobes lend the feeling of a smart New York apartment, gently accessorised by hand-blown glass vases in shades or burnt orange and red, and semi-abstract original artworks adorning the walls.

The airy lounge sits comfortably in between the bedrooms, offering both distance, sound-proofing, and a great degree of privacy between the sleeping chambers. In the living space, muted tones of sable and sand, offset by russet and gold accent features, artfully mirror the natural surrounds of desert, sky, and sea, and little distracts from the spectacular views - through more huge

windows - out across the azure waters of the Arabian Gulf. This is a lounge for contemplation and relaxation, rather than partying.

The en-suite baths are elegant, marble-clad sanctuaries with free-standing deep soaker tubs, acres of counter space, walk-in showers, French Laboratoire Remède toiletries and every conceivable mod-con. As always with St. Regis, the devil is in the details, a fact that’s not been overlooked even in the bathrooms, where modern but classic American Standard Town Square faucet fittings in gleaming chrome-coated brass finish the rooms perfectly. Each feels like an opulent, private mini spa. In the larger of the two bedrooms, the master bath is reached through a spacious walk-in closet and dressing area – further adding to the sense of sanctuary and privacy. Here one can luxuriate in bubbles whilst watching the sunset from the comfort of the bath.

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More detailing is gently evident throughout the suite, although not, at any point, in your face – which makes the entire space easily liveable and perfect for working and entertaining if you’re a business traveller, or simply seeking a five-star address for a city staycation with friends. For me, the only thing missing was perhaps a butler kitchen and separate access for in-room dining deliveries, but, this aside, an Empire Suite at The St. Regis Doha offers the perfect combination of space to live/work/entertain for a family or group of friends who want to indulge in a first-class experience in the Qatari capital.

Nicholas Chrisostomou stayed in a two-bedroom Empire Suite at The St. Regis Doha in January 2018. The nightly rate for March-May 2018 is QAR 4,500 inclusive of breakfast. www.stregisdoha.com

NAGHOL LAND DIVING This ancient, annual ritual sees men from the Sa tribe on Pentecost Island in the Pacific island nation of Vanuatu, hurtle head first towards the ground from wooden towers, at speeds in excess of 40mph, with just tree vines tied around their ankles.

April & May 2018

TASTE &SIP

NEWCOMER B BY ELEFTERIADES BEIRUT LEBANON

Nicholas Chrisostomou visits MusicHall owner Michel Eléftériades’ latest, decadent addition to Beirut’s vibrant nightlife scene

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Michel Eléftériades is anything but a newcomer to Beirut’s nightlife scene. On the contrary, the self-proclaimed emperor and founder of Nowheristan (Eléftériades' utopian world of tomorrow), is a familiar character throughout the vibrant Lebanese capital.

Many would say that Eléftériades is himself an inherent, inimitable part of the colourful fabric of Beirut’s ever-changing nightlife scene, and, without him, the city would be lacking something substantial. I have to say that I tend to agree. Whether you love him or loathe him, Eléftériades cuts a striking figure. Of Greek and Lebanese origins, tall, distinguished and ageing rather well, with long curly hair and a longer beard, he looks the part of an alchemist of antiquity. His authoritative appearance is usually accentuated by regal-like attire or velvet robes, which he tends to wear inside and outside his home, with scant heed to social norms. From his eccentric fashion and easy-going manner, you would never guess you were in the presence of a long-time militant, with a history of commanding amidst instability. But Eléftériades is just that, and, today, in 21st century Lebanon, he is also much more: artist, successful entrepreneur, family man, musician, director, events organiser, warrior-poet, creator and owner of MusicHall - undoubtedly Beirut’s most well-known and hugely popular nightlife venues. Somewhat tellingly, Eléftériades’ two MusicHall venues in Beirut are much more popular with the Lebanese people than visitors and tourists – a clear indication of the high regard in which he is held in his home country.

In a world where everything often feels like it is more of the same, especially when it comes to food and beverage, it’s refreshing when someone unveils a project which is utterly different, novel and ground-breaking or eccentric. Personally, I enjoy visiting eccentric new venues best, not least because, due to the way bars and restaurants are financed these days, very few new openings are of note when it comes to the décor or atmosphere. Sadly, there’s little originality out there, because restaurateurs just cannot afford to take the risk in the current climate. So, when something entirely unique presents itself, I, for one, always make a point of going to have a butcher’s.

If nothing else, Eléftériades' latest offering, B By Eléftériades, is eccentric. Overtly eccentric to be more precise – in a theatrical nightclub-meets-lavish-movie-set kinda way. And the arrival of “B”, just over six months ago, came at a time when Beirutis thought that they had run out of cool new places to fill at the weekends. How wrong they were.

Set on the Mediterranean just north of Beirut, with a striking façade of red ceramic tiles, Aïshti by the Sea is a landmark five-storey building designed by renowned architect David Adjaye. Owned by renowned Lebanese businessman and art

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collector Tony Salamé, the building combines a high-end retail mall and various exhibition spaces, and in its skilful integration, beautifully juxtaposes art and shopping in an entirely original setting. Since opening in 2015, Aïshti by the Sea has become one of Lebanon's primary lifestyle destinations for fashion, wellness, food and art. So it is fitting, therefore, that B By Eléftériades is located on the rooftop of Aïshti by the Sea – the Lebanese capital’s most modern temple to the arts, fashion, and to some extent, consumerism.

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As soon as the elevator doors open on the top floor, guests are greeted by striking female hosts and lead through a moody bronze corridor to the venue. When the expanse of the place is unveiled it is a veritable feast for the eyes and not unlike stepping into another dimension, complete with baroque, surrealistic kitsch and pop memorabilia - all spray-painted gold and lovingly assembled in an ornately artistic fashion.

For me, the bar is where it’s all happening at B. Presided

over by a bevy of mixologists, the hand-crafted cocktails I enjoyed were amongst some of the best I’d sipped in Beirut, which is saying something. Whilst B serves food I wouldn’t visit for dinner, because the drinks, atmosphere, setting and music is where B excels, the latter being where Eléftériades truly comes into his own. The live band on the night I visited B was incredible, complete with a vocalist who I wouldn’t be surprised if you told me had released a number one album by now.

At around midnight B turns into a club and the mu¬si¬cians fly out of the door, leaving the place to bottle drinkers and wild dancers heaving to electro beats. So I suggest that you visit B early, soak in the sheer decadence of it all, hang out by the bar, people watch and enjoy the live music. One thing’s for sure, you won’t have been anywhere like B before, and, without characters like Michel Eléftériades, the nightlife world would be a much duller place. www.bbbeirut.com

CYGNETT PHONE CHARGER We all love our iPhones but rarely leave home without a decent charger these days. Featuring the latest Lithium Polymer battery technology, this Cygnett portable 10,000mAh “ChargeUp Rapid 10K” is lightweight (253g), has two USB slots so I can share the juice with a travel buddy, and can fully charge an iPhone five times. A must for any frequent traveller.

USD 59.99 www.cygnett.com

CUYANA ALPACA SLEEP SET Think about what you might need for a restful night's sleep or even a power nap. Investing in a good eye mask and comforting blanket will pay off on long legs, and make short work flights feel a little closer to travelling in first. Instead of opting for something plush, the wise cultured traveller picks a fabric that’s luxe yet light. Made in Peru and crafted from beautifully soft baby alpaca, this divine sleep set was purpose designed for long-haul flights.

USD 195 www.cuyana.com

AĒSOP HAND SANITISER Unfortunately, planes are usually cesspools of germs, even in business class, because airlines don’t have the time to wipe down everything each passenger touches. So, a good hand sanitiser is an inflight essential these days - just make sure yours is less than 3.4oz/100 ml. This alcohol-based hand wash, by cool Australian brand Aēsop, contains mandarin rind and rosemary leaf, and kills bacteria without water, leaving hands clean, fresh and non-sticky.

AUD 10 for 50ml www.aesop.com

IN-FLIGHT ESSENTIALS FLYING CAN BE STRESSFUL FOR EVEN THE MOST SEASONED TRAVELLER. WHETHER YOU'RE EMBARKING ON A TRANSATLANTIC JOURNEY, OR HEADING OFF ON A QUICK BUSINESS TRIP TO A CITY JUST A FEW HOURS AWAY, A NEGATIVE IN-FLIGHT EXPERIENCE CAN SET THE TONE FOR THE WHOLE TRIP. WE SUGGEST EQUIPPING YOURSELF WITH A RANGE OF IN-FLIGHT ESSENTIALS TO MAKE THE JOURNEY AS ENJOYABLE AND RELAXING AS IT CAN BE, AND ENSURE THAT YOU ARRIVE FEELING AND LOOKING YOUR BEST. FROM THE CULTURED TRAVELLER'S FAVOURITE IN-FLIGHT BEAUTY PRODUCTS, TO SOME CUTE ADD-INS WE'VE FOUND MAKE FLYING A TOUCH MORE FUN (ESPECIALLY IF YOU’RE NOT UP FRONT!), HERE'S OUR ROUND UP OF WHAT TO HAVE ON HAND WHEN FLYING AT 30,000 FEET.

KORRES WILD ROSE MOISTURISER Planes dry you out big time, so a quality, easy-to-apply moisturiser is essential during a flight to both feed your skin and counteract the drying effect of a pressurised cabin. This 24-hour product by celebrated Greek brand Korres is good value cream for a mid-range product and is formulated with a range of ingredients that moisturise and brighten the complexion, including wild rose oil - a natural source of vitamin C - which helps repair the look of fine lines and skin discolourations.

ODOYO WATERPROOF EARPHONES Essential to keep out the noise of screaming babies in-flight, even if you don’t listen to music, these versatile and very reasonably-priced earphones are waterproof, sweatproof, dustproof, freezeproof and shockproof. Most importantly the fully active ambient noise-cancelling feature blocks out the sounds of unwanted noises on a flight.

These also have a built-in remote and microphone for phone usage on terra firma.

USD 35.99 Model EP900iAW www.odoyo.com

EUR 29.80 www.korres.com

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ILA RADIANCE AROMA ROLLER

INCASE LAPTOP POWER SLEEVE Whilst laptop designers have been obsessed with creating slimmer, lighter laptops, it’s generally been at the expense of battery power. A flat battery during a work session on a long flight is a business traveller’s worst nightmare, especially when the in-seat power sockets don’t work. This cool IconConnected “power sleeve” houses a 14,000mAh battery within its protective walls, which is enough to fully charge a MacBook Pro twice. There’s also space inside to store a USB-C cable for recharging. Available in 13" and 15" sizes, it will go on sale later this year.

Ila’s aroma rollers are designed to provide a lighter in-flight alternative to traditional perfumes, as well as restorative and therapeutic effects. Glowing Radiance is made from an infusion of essential oils including rose otto, sourced from roses picked in the foothills of the Himalayas - that provide an uplifting fragrance and help restore balance. The portable roll-on stick applicator is both compact and ideal for a swift, no-spill application, and provides a burst of energy wherever you may be.

GBP 29 www.ila-spa.com

USD 199.95 www.incase.com

SK-II FACIAL TREATMENT MASK A long flight is the perfect opportunity to watch a good movie, and combat the dehydration your skin is undergoing in-flight. Get down with your favourite fashion and beauty influencer and spend 15 minutes with a sheet mask on; they pack easily and require no rinse-off. SK-II’s award-winning facial treatment mask is packed with a concentration of Pitera, delivers exceptional moisture in a single use and softens the surface of the skin, resulting in a visibly more radiant, firm and youthful-looking complexion.

USD 17 www.sk-ii.com 108 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2018

GILLHAMS ANTI-STRESS DRINK

Not everyone is a seasoned travelle pleasure. For those of us who nee pre-flight or want to relax on-board, vegan and organic magnesium an calming remedy helps your muscles a properly, keeps your heart rhythm blood sugar levels and promotes norm Take a couple of sachets with you o ditch the Xanax!

GBP 9.82 for 30 sachets www.amazon.c

PILLOWPACKER INFLATABLE TRAVEL PILLOW Sleep is a crucial way to kill time on a long-haul flight, and a comfortable pillow is an essential sleep aid. We put extra emphasis on the word “comfortable” here, because most airline-provided pillows just don’t cut it! This luxury travel pillow by Canadian brand Pillowpacker, is made from Brome Lake goose (the finest duck down in the world) and duck down, and the 100% cotton exterior has a 260-thread count, making it the perfect blend of luxury and comfort.

er or finds flying a ed a little calming this 100% natural, nd calcium-based and nerves function steady, regulates mal blood pressure. on every flight and

co.uk

CAD 175.00 www.pillowpackers.com

THISWORKS IN-TRANSIT MOISTURE SPRAY Right before you land, and many times during the flight, be sure to give your face a spritz with a rejuvenating, hydrating mist.

This will not only refresh your skin and give you a boost after a long journey, but you'll look far more fresh upon arrival.

ThisWorks’ in-transit moisture spray provides extreme hydration and includes a natural blend of repairing plant oils to restore balance, and organic Aloe Vera water to relieve irritated skin.

USD 33.00 www.thisworks.com

CARRY-ON COCKTAIL KIT If you aren't privy to first class premium spirit and mixology options, these funky kits are the result of a unique collaboration between W&P Design and award-winning online drinks magazine PUNCH, and an easy and fun way to turn a standard in-flight beverage service into some expertly prepared custom cocktails.

Whether you’re in the mood for a good Bloody Mary, a proper Old Fashioned or the perfect G&T, one of these kits includes everything you'll need to mix up two delicious drinks at 30,000 feet.

USD 24 www.wandpdesign.com

SINGAPORE AIRLINES’ NEW FIRST CLASS SUITES

Designed by French luxury yacht designer Jean-Jacques Coste, Singapore Airlines’ former first-class suites ignited a new passion for luxury flat beds on-board when they premiered on the premium carrier’s Airbus A380 in 2007. Ten years on they still rank amongst the best in the sky, so it comes as little surprise that the unveiling of the latest incarnation of the airline’s first-class suites has met with much applause. Designed this time by celebrated French aircraft and yacht interior specialists Pierrejean Design Studio, each suite has a separate fully-flat bed with adjustable recline, plus a plush leather chair upholstered by world-renowned Poltrona Frau. For couples travelling together, the beds in the first two suites of each aisle can be combined to form a double bed/suite. When not in use, beds can be stowed completely, creating even more personal space. Add to this a 32” screen monitor and bedlinen by Lalique, and the suite feels more like a bijou luxury hotel room than a plane cabin. www.singaporeair.com

MERIDIANA TO BECOME AIR ITALY

Sardinia-based Italian carrier Meridiana – which is part-owned by Qatar Airways – is rebranding itself Air Italy, as part of an ambitious plan to overtake perennially troubled Alitalia as the nation’s top carrier. While Alitalia is in the process of being auctioned off in pieces to other European airlines, the soon-to-be Air Italy airline is already Italy’s second largest carrier, plans to make Milan’s Malpensa airport its main hub, and intends to quadruple its fleet and passenger numbers by 2022. www.meridiana.it

GROWING MOVEMENT FOR CHILD-FREE ZONES

There is most definitely a growing movement towards child-free seating sections on planes, and some international carriers have already taken note. Malaysia Airlines, AirAsia, Scoot Airlines and IndiGo have all introduced “kid-free” zones, where travellers can purchase seats without the risk of sitting next to a noisy child. The idea of separating children and adults in-flight has also gained traction on Reddit, the American social news and discussion site, but so far no US airlines have obliged.

NORWEGIAN AIR CONTINUES TO GROW

It’s all go at Norwegian Air, the sixth largest low-cost airline in the world. Norwegian continues to expand, and will introduce at least 11 new trans-Atlantic routes this year, including services from New York JFK to Amsterdam Schiphol (beginning 7 May), and New York JFK to Madrid-Barajas commencing 18 July. There will also be new services from Los Angeles to Milan (beginning 18 June), and LA to Madrid commencing 16 July. www.norwegian.com

AIR ASTANA FLIES DAILY TO LONDON

Air Astana, the national carrier of Kazakhstan, will commence daily, non-stop flights from Nazarbayev International to London Heathrow from June 1st, linking the shiny metal and glass Kazak metropolis to the British capital. Rising somewhat implausibly from the flat plains of oil-rich Kazakhstan, to form a city somewhat stuck between a Soviet past and an aspirational present, Astana is most certainly an interesting city to visit. www.airastana.com

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SONGKRAN Originally a way for Thais to sprinkle water on their family members to bring good fortune, today the festival of Songkran has transitioned into three days of fun-ďŹ lled water ďŹ ghts and non-stop revelry.

13-15 April 2018

BOGOTA'S BEST RESTAURANTS

The vibrant capital of the land of magical realism, Bogotá stands tall and proud at 2,600 metres above sea level, that much closer to the stars than its many of its South American culinary contemporaries. Lush green mountains surround the city and the bustling streets of the capital are filled with greenery.

The fertile lands of this vast country offer its talented chefs some of the freshest and most tasty produce on the planet.

And this is without talking about the country’s vast variety of fruits, many of which are indigenous to Colombia, the fourth most biodiverse country in the world. In short, Colombia’s pantry is immense, providing an incredible array of ingredients.

In Colombia chefs have a bigger role to play in delivering dishes from farm to table. Here, meeting farmers and hand-picking or growing their own produce are integral practices to the culture of the land. Smoking one's own paprika from scratch, spending hours to make sauces, and, in some cases, even hunting their own meats, Colombian cooks take things further than usual, and each bite of their culinary labours is a tasty testament to this.

For a long period of time, the Bogotá restaurant scene was less than elaborate, populated mainly by classic establishments that Colombians would visit only on special occasions. The industry belonged to just a few. But now it is constantly evolving, thanks to young and passionate cooking-driven minds, who hustle to get the freshest, most remote and natural ingredients into their creations and onto their tables. What’s more, they ensure that not only the food tastes good but that the details are also in place.

The fortunate diners who live in Bogotá are lucky enough to experience the foodie scene’s rapid and fascinating evolution. And it is still evolving.

Today, Bogotá is an adult gastronomic playground, aplomb with a wide variety of restaurants spanning every price point and taste sensation. From the downright industrial to

the elegant and refined, quaint bistros to majestic restaurants, and pavement cafés to fine dining big hitters, you will find every type of eatery on the streets of the Colombian capital. The city has become a world class destination to experience fantastic food, be immersed in unique dining décor and enjoy a variety of distinctly different ambiances. All are windows into the history, agriculture and talent of the Colombian people, and when it comes to their cuisine, Colombians don’t rest until they get it right: from delicious corn-based arepas which are a staple of the country, to traditional homemade ajiaco (chicken and potato soup) which is especially popular in Bogotá, and on to much more elaborate contemporary dishes where the fresh produce is almost always the star.

Hip and trendy restaurants, which highlight what it means to be Colombian, are popping up more frequently as eating-out and tourism increases. However, since Bogotá is a city of contrasts, residents also dine often in classic restaurants that left their culinary mark on the city long ago. Some notable establishments have been catering to the Colombian elite for many years with a more traditional service style and lower profile than the newest and most talked-about of the city’s places to dine. Such variety of restaurant trends affords locals and visitors alike rich pickings when it comes to choosing where to eat and the type of fare.

Many of Colombia’s most well-known chefs spent a lot of time abroad, learning their craft and perfecting the cooking techniques they employ today in the kitchens of their restaurants in Bogotá. Their preparations are complex. They foster a mentality of beginning the creation of a dish from scratch and developing it to perfection. And their natural passion for cooking is evident. As a result, contemporary Colombian cuisine is on the rise, and nowhere is this home-grown talent more evident than in the capital, where a handful of chefs and their restaurants are taking the country’s food status to new gastronomic heights.

BOGOTA'S

BEST RESTAURANTS

MESA FRANCA

B Y KAT Y ARAUJO

E

xciting, vibrant and delicious: these three words describe both modern Colombian cuisine and Mesa Franca. Bogotá is a city with good taste and fine food, and now, more than ever, young chefs are identifying what contemporary Colombian means for their pride and for the world to enjoy. Since opening its doors at the end of 2016, in up-and-coming Chapinero neighbourhood, understated Mesa Franca has rapidly become one of the best restaurants in the country.

The traditional but restored corner house that is home to Mesa Franca, commemorates the past through its exposed foundations, and acknowledges the present via semi-industrial fittings and steel chairs. The décor is essentially minimalist, warm and comfortable. Boasting four intimate spaces, Mesa Franca has a colourful terrace for warmer days as well as an unpretentious inside dining room and inviting bar adjacent to an open kitchen. The high-top table directly in front of the bar is perfect for a night out with friends who also happen to be foodies. The second floor offers larger spaces for bigger groups, again 118 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2018

kitted out in a quasi-industrial yet appealing and comfortable style.

Three young personalities make Mesa Franca happen in beautiful culinary unison, and are making names for themselves as restaurateurs to be reckoned with: Sommelier Maria Paula Amador in the dining room, commands her team with love, leadership and tact, as she strolls through the tables taking orders, chatting with guests, talking about her changing wine list, setting the stage for exquisite meals and presenting dishes that smell like food heaven.

Tom Hydzik – originally from Poland – is the creator of a range of delectable hand-crafted cocktails, that combine local fruits and slightly bolder aperitifs. Hydzik’s accomplished bar menu might very well be the envy of some of the world’s most established mixologists. Divided into sections – Spritz’d, Sours, Raspados, High Balls and Aromáticos – I sample a pink pisco with fresh pineapple, spearmint, pisco, aperol and honey. The smooth yet fruity and dry taste left my palate positively animated.

Iván Cadena – the star of the kitchen – tends to stand at the other side of the dining room, across from the bar. Looking at his guests from his cooking domain, his contagious excitement always on show, it’s satisfying to see how his young assistants follow him with rigor. Cadena is a young and passionate chef, rich in both wisdom and experience.

Having started his career at Astrid y Gaston, Cadena was a sous-chef for Virgilio Martinez, widely recognised as the best Latin America chef today. Cadena rose rapidly through the ranks. Mesa Franca is the first restaurant where he has accomplished an honest menu that showcases local products cooked with exquisite techniques to great success.

Cadena plays with herbs, spices, textures and the presentation of his dishes like no other chef in the country, achieving finesse and subtlety via unique combinations of flavours which explode in the mouth.

On the Thursday evening we visited Mesa Franca, it was ‘Salsa vinilo y cochinillo’, with suckling pig the culinary star, to a backdrop of DJ Pantera playing classic salsa using vinyl and

turntables. My starter of romaine lettuce hearts with feta cheese, caramelized nuts and a subtle basil-lemon vinaigrette was supremely appetising. The moreish suckling pork dumplings are not to be missed on a Thursday – vegetables and pork flavours playing with the seared texture of the dough and delicate Asian seasonings. And to say that the main course suckling pig was succulent is an understatement.

Mesa Franca was conceived out of Amador, Hydzik and Cadena’s love for great restaurants, where the relationships between a restauranteur and its suppliers are close, and where honest Colombian flavours are elevated by creative and ingenious recipes. In Mesa Franca, these three restaurateurs have successfully created a cutting-edge culinary sanctuary, where the finest produce, gastronomic excellence, friendly service, fine wines and delectable cocktails meet together and sing in perfect harmony. This restaurant will without doubt continue to be the talk of Bogotá’s food scene for many years to come, and is a destination venue for any serious food lover visiting the Colombian capital and wanting to sample the best cuisine the city has to offer. www.facebook.com/mesafrancabogota/

BOGOTA'S BEST RESTAURANTS

LEO

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ogotá now boasts a huge range of food and beverage establishments to suit all tastes and purses, and the city's flourishing culinary scene has quite rightly been commanding many international column inches of late. Whilst many sophisticated eateries now abound in the capital, presided over by immensely talented chefs, few stand out as prominently as Leonor Espinosa's fine dining establishment, LEO, which delivers some of the most authentically Colombian dishes in the city.

Crowned the region's best female chef at the fifth outing of Latin America’s Best Restaurants Awards, which were held in Bogotá last year, prominent Colombian restaurateur Leonor Espinosa is no stranger to praise and accolades. She has been championing the food of her homeland for many years – way before many of the country's current top-flight chefs – and her efforts have not only been instrumental in earning underrated Colombia a seat at the global gastronomic table, but also winning Espinosa the EUR 100k 2017 Basque Culinary World Prize for her crusade and commitment to using gastronomy to drive ecology and social change.

Colombia is one of the world’s most biodiverse countries, and Espinosa takes great pride in using her work to propel society in a better direction, and attract greater attention to the country’s regional ingredients, like corozo and yacón, snails and fried ants (a Colombian delicacy). Espinosa also uses special ingredients from the Andes in her dishes, like the chachafruto, considered a miracle fruit in the Americas because of its nutritional value.

Espinosa reaches out through her Fundación Leo Espinosa – also known as FUNLEO – to work with and help small rural communities around the country (www.funleo.org).

The foundation’s mission – whose slogan is ' food for development' – is to identify, reclaim and promote culinary traditions that have often been forgotten or ignored. She 120 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2018

brings these rare ingredients and methods to her cooking and restaurant, combining a love for discovery with an inherent sense of social well-being.

It is both Espinosa's extraordinary culinary skills and consistent use of good, honest ingredients that have put her eponymous restaurant in Bogota’s downtown financial district, LEO, permanently in South America’s gastronomic limelight.

Opened in 2007, LEO's dining room successfully juxtaposes understated luxury and comfort with a touch of formality old school Colombian love songs taking the edge off the proceedings, and adding an authentic charm to the experience. Whilst some chefs have achieved fame by expanding beyond the country's borders for inspiration, Espinosa sticks not just to Colombian food, but to food from little-known regions of the country.

In the kitchen you can quite literally see Espinosa’s love of anthropology, art and the environment coming together on the plate, the culmination of all her creative energies expressed in one place, like an artist painting a canvas. Espinosa’s skilful fusion of modern and ancient Colombian cookery have made her restaurant famous throughout Colombia and gained the modest chef wide recognition. And quite rightly so. Her cooking is composed with love, both for her craft and her country, and her flavours unite in the mouth to create gastronomic taste sensations in every bite. Unsurprisingly LEO was voted best restaurant in Colombia in 2016.

Choose one of the tasting menus (there are usually two), rather than ordering à la carte, to really experience Espinosa’s passion for her homeland and Colombian cuisine. Her incredible 12-step tasting menu including paired wines will run you around USD 75 per head and is worth every peso. If you have the budget for just one fancy dinner in Bogotá let it be at LEO. www.restauranteleo.com

BRUTO

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n Colombia, the most creative chefs are balancing the rich produce of the country’s land and seas with global cooking techniques to create an identity that belongs to the nation. Utilising fine ingredients from around the country, along with some staples hailing from Spain, BRUTO offers plates that both amaze and educate as well as entertain one’s taste buds. In a city with a number of tapas restaurants, it can be difficult to stand out, yet BRUTO does just that.

In Bogotá, where the dining scene is top-notch and visiting a restaurant is both exciting and delicious, BRUTO has a uniquely appealing atmosphere and menu all of its own.

Situated in the charming Quinta Camacho district, BRUTO is best discovered by arriving on foot, to enjoy the contrast of the brisk mountain air and nearby forest with the city’s buzz. The venue’s semi-industrial design and large inside-outside bar will almost certainly have you enticed from the get-go. Inside, exposed brick walls, soaring ceilings, open balconies, brightly coloured furniture and a warm overall aesthetic come together to create a distinctive space that has made BRUTO one of the city’s classic dining establishments.

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BRUTO’s celebrated chefs Felipe Arizabaleta and Luis Carrión, along with talented restauranteur Emilia Castellanos, have brought Spanish flavours to Colombian shores whilst staying true to the cuisine and its traditional dishes, at the same time introducing bold South American flavours with precise balance. The accomplished menu is a mix of familiar tapas plates plus bigger dishes like pig stew, together with classic Spanish dishes executed with a Colombian twist, the combination of which has been warmly accepted by Bogotá’s foodies and met with universal acclaim.

From the sweet mandarin to the bitter blackberry, and the unusual soursop (or guanábana) to the cape gooseberry (or uchuva), all of these splendid Colombian fruits are used in the preparation of BRUTO’s extensive range of exquisite hand-crafted cocktails, which make the perfect start to an evening meal.

Make the most of Bogotá’s temperate nights by dining on the patio, where those in-the-know can be seen enjoying their delicious dinner al fresco, whilst savouring the balmy evening and happening ambience around them.

Everything from patatas bravas to empanadas gallega, and salmorejo con guarnición (a silky, cold soup, rich with the

taste of fresh tomatoes and bread, and topped with egg and bacon) and croquetas de calamar con salsa alioli (squid croquettes with a silky, garlicky aioli) skilfully demonstrate why this Spanish-Basque restaurant is a bright star in Bogotá’s culinary firmament, and reservations are a must.

Thrilling flavours that highlight the produce used in every dish’s construction will have you ordering plate after plate.

If the food doesn’t lure you to BRUTO’s bustling bar and warm embrace, the prospect of quality music in a supremely stylish setting will almost certainly do the trick, the compelling rustic-chic décor being perfectly suited to live entertainment. Talented bands make a regular appearance at BRUTO to lay down some jazz or drop some funky beats, providing the perfect musical backdrop.

Tables above the main throng, on the second floor, enjoy the music from an aerial perspective while servers move around, up-and-down, delivering sugary delights to diners in the last throes of their meal, before they return to the bar for some post dinner cocktail treats. For dessert, the torrija caramelizada con helado de café (caramelised French toast with coffee ice cream) is a divine finale not to be missed.

In many respects, being at BRUTO feels a lot like hanging out in a well-travelled friend’s fashionable home. The problem is, you may never want to leave. http://bruto.restaurant

BOGOTA'S

BEST RESTAURANTS

BOGOTA'S BEST RESTAURANTS

HARR Y SASSON

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ith thirty years’ experience under his whites, arguably Colombia's most well-known chef, Harry Sasson, has built a mini empire of F&B venues across the country, which includes a bar, bakery, steakhouse and some sublime restaurants. His flagship eatery, Harry Sasson in Bogotá, remains the crème de la crème of the city’s gastronomic scene, recently celebrated its 20th anniversary and remains one of the country's must-visit dining destinations.

Sasson's penchant for cooking was awakened as a child.

Being Colombian, he grew up in a country abundant with wholesome fruit, vegetables and meat, and hence naturally developed a palette for home-cooked meals and tables filled with avocado, plantain and beans, organic chicken and local beef.

As a young adult, Sasson moved to Vancouver, working in restaurants that specialised in dishes embodying an Asian influence. At the age of 25, Sasson knew that he wanted to return to his motherland to open a restaurant branded with his own unique style. Today Sasson is the executive chef and co-owner of Harry Sasson in Cartagena, and Harry Sasson, Harry's Bar, Club Colombia and Nemo in Bogotá, the latter named after his father’s nickname, as a way to honour him. Each establishment is individually styled with different menus. All are much lauded by the foodie community in both cities, and incredibly popular with international visitors.

Sasson’s crown jewel is an irrefutably great eatery and a very special place to dine. Occupying two floors of an imposing ivy- covered faux 1938 Tudor mansion on the

north side of Bogotá, transformed by the addition of a white-steel bird’s nest extension, the Harry Sasson experience begins as you pull into the driveway and sweep past giant eucalyptus and evergreen trees towards the elegantly restored house. Inside boasts antique furniture and a wealth of detailing, including bouquets of long-stemmed orchids, rustic wood beams, rich upholstery and lavish drapes. Hanging from the high ceiling on the second floor are three immense crystal chandeliers which set the dramatic and opulent tone for meal enjoyed beneath them. The stunning bar, clad in glass and girders, is a show-stopper.

The eclectic menu reflects Sasson’s culinary education and combines Colombian ingredients with global influences including Latin America, Asia and Europe. Standout dishes

include slow-braised pork belly with a fig and orange mustard, and large cuts of meat which are cooked to perfection on a traditional charcoal grill. Sides are generously portioned so order to share. A special tasting menu is served at the chef’s table in a private upstairs room of the mansion.

An encyclopaedic wine list, almost certainly one of the most extensive in the country, spans vintages hailing from South America to California and Europe, with many wines available by the glass to accompany the simple but delicious food. It is this inclusiveness coupled with friendly staff and a warm, inviting atmosphere that makes Harry Sasson a unique fine dining experience in Bogotá, and one which will no doubt continue to prosper for many more years to come. www.harrysasson.com Mar-May 2018 The Cultured Traveller 125

BOGOTA'S

BEST RESTAURANTS

DONOSTIA

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ow more than ever, gastronomy is an integral part of Colombian culture, with many restaurants’ plates positively encouraging diners to bond with the passion of its people and the products of the land, and embrace the togetherness of sitting with one another to eat. In Bogotá, the capital in the clouds, dining out is the thing to do and in a restaurant is the place to be seen.

Wedged between the bullring and the lush Andean mountains lies barrio La Macarena, a small, hilly neighbourhood lined with turquoise, pink and orange buildings which was off limits last decade but is now saturated with bohemian charm and eclectic cuisine.

Macarena’s quiet, tree-lined streets are populated by fashionable restaurants, pavement cafés, workshops, galleries and boutiques - the air of downtown obscurity attracting a hip in-the-know crowd not dissimilar to Greenwich Village in NYC. Macarena was the trailblazer of Bogotá's foodie scene and there are at least a dozen

restaurants here where you can get a really excellent meal.

For nearly two decades, talented chef Tomás Rueda and his partners were pioneers in offering market-style cuisine, opening their first restaurant eighteen years ago. Ever since, this passionate posse has been setting Bogotá’s culinary stage with flavourful native cuisine - a task of vital importance to Colombia, because food displays another side of the country, to both its people and the world.

When Donostia opened its doors just over a dozen years ago on the Calle 29 - a steep and quiet street behind the country’s National Museum - it did so in an attempt to break the notion that a restaurant must be located in a populated and heavily transited gastro zone in order to be successful.

While chef Tomás Rueda was living in Barcelona studying cooking at a postgraduate level, San Sebastián – or Donostia by its Basque name – was one of the regions that

he often visited, frequently dining on delectable pintxo-bar fare, where dishes of tantalising seafood - octopus, anchovies, sardines, salmon - routinely occupy the bar, ready to be scooped atop pieces of freshly toasted bread. In this world-class gastro-paradise, Rueda learned first-hand how to pick and choose fresh produce at markets and walked away from Spain with a profound respect for the Basque plate.

While the Basque influence is evident in the name of his restaurant, Rueda serves an innovative mix of Spanish cuisine cooked with Colombian ingredients, with many dishes encompassing local produce and meats.

The first thing to do is install yourself on the long, elegant brown leather banquette which runs the length of the dining room. A high ceiling with globe lamps blends a modern décor with the building's colonial past. Beneath the gaze of a once mighty bull, peruse the daily tapas menu chalked on a blackboard stretching over the bar and open

kitchen. The menu features only what Rueda can get fresh from the market that day. A wide selection of savoury items are available, not least anchovies, Iberian ham, Spanish tortilla, meatballs, manchego cheese and divine patatas bravas - diced and spiced potatoes. From the fixed menu, try the ravioli stuffed with Colombian sour cream, candied tomatoes and chorizo from Antioquia, or order the grilled trout roasted in bijao banana leaves. Rueda’s cooking shows a fondness for robust flavours and ingenious combinations, and large plates are often accompanied by uncommon companions which work tremendously well.

Whether visiting for drinks and small bites best enjoyed with libations of beer and sangria, or a full and hearty meal accompanied by a good wine, everything served at Donostia is unpretentious, deliciously moreish and supremely tasty, and you will almost certainly leave the restaurant craving more. www.elorigendelacomida.co/donostia

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BOGOTA'S BEST RESTAURANTS

LOCAL B Y RAUSCH

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hen Jorge Rausch and his brothers, beloved by Colombia and its people, founded Criterion 15 years ago in Zona G, there were only a few other restaurants in the area. Back then, Colombia’s capital didn’t have many renowned dining establishments, and even fewer were known outside of the country. Criterion has now been on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list ever since the prestigious awards began. “It is a classic restaurant in Bogotá now,” says Jorge Rausch, the executive chef who co-founded Criterion with his two brothers, pastry chef Mark and business manager Ilan.

The brothers’ popularity reached new heights once Jorge formed part of the Master Chef Colombia team, and they are now the city’s most famous chefs and owners of seven restaurants, with nine different locations scattered throughout the country, including two Bistronomy locations in Bogotá, El Gobernador in Cartagena, Rausch Energía Gastronómica in Medellín, and Kitchen in Barranquilla.

El Chico is one of Bogotá’s most exclusive areas, boasting lots of trees and delightful green spaces interspersed with swanky properties and oasis-like parks. Smart and picturesque, El Chico is alive and bursting with the vibrancy, excitement and colour of a Latin city, and it is nestled in the heart of this lush neighbourhood that you will find Local By Rausch, opened in 2016.

Spread across three floors, Local allows diners to choose from multiple settings in which to enjoy their meal, including dining rooms, lounge-style bars and an outdoor terrace where one can enjoy the views and the capital’s unique weather.

World-renowned for their high-quality cuisine, Local is essentially the Rausch brothers’ personal and modern take

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on traditional Colombian fare, and the dishes served here draw on Colombia’s rich natural pantry whilst also showcasing their incredible cooking skills. In Local, the brothers have designed the perfect destination venue for Jorge to dazzle with his savoury creations while Mark showcases his sweet sensations. This complementary and productive gastronomic marriage is the reason why the brothers successfully operate so many restaurants together.

A stunning industrial-esque bar welcomes guests on the first floor, which strikes a clever decorative pose by juxtaposing colourful accents with swathes of sexy bare concrete and Colombian drawings hanging on the walls.

Expertly prepared cocktails, that deftly combine Colombian fruits with local herbs and exotic spices, are served to well-attired guests enjoying a relaxed pre-dinner drink.

On the second floor, a happening open kitchen, populated by at least twenty chefs moving around the various fires and cooking stations, sends a plethora of colourful dishes to the pass for onward delivery to eager diners.

At Local, dishes universally bursting with familiar flavours are lusciously reimagined to highlight Colombia's roots.

Take for instance ajiaco, Bogotá’s quintessential potato-based soup. At Local it is presented in the form of an empanada. While buñuelos, usually fried corn and mandioca dough balls eaten for breakfast, are served at Local for dinner, stuffed with chicharrón acevichado (fried pork skins in a ceviche sauce).

A visit to Local should not be mistaken for eating at a traditional Colombian restaurant. Far from it, in fact. But, then again, the Rausch Brothers are far from traditional restaurateurs. www.hermanosrausch.com

BOGOTA'S BEST RESTAURANTS

EL BANDIDO

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ypical of the north-of-centre part of Bogotá, El Nogal is a green and leafy district where many of the city's well-to-do families live. One of Bogotá's poshest and most expensive areas, the first houses were built in Nogal in the 1940s and many of the residences are large and sprawling. Quite a few of the foreign embassies (including the British Embassy) are located in Nogal, and many of the better-off ex-pats and diplomat-types eat, play and hang out here, giving rise to a good selection of cool restaurants and trendy bars in close proximity to each other.

In a city famous for its wild traffic, Nogal stands out in that it’s an area which one can really enjoy walking around. A stroll down Calle de los Anticuarios (Antiques Street) will almost certainly take you back in time through memories and nostalgia that everything here brings. Hidden behind 130 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2018

residential shrubbery at the end of the street, behind an unassuming white wooden door, you will find popular brasserie and bar El Bandido, almost unseen behind shrubbery, awnings and plant pots.

Originally conceived as a French bistro serving simple but well-crafted dishes, El Bandido is all about live music and quality hand-crafted cocktails, has been spicing up Bogotá’s nightlife scene since 2011, and is equally perfect for a good meal with friends, post-work drinks, a night of lounging, or people-watching and dancing.

Centred around a large bar connecting the inside of the restaurant with a cute outside terrace, scattered vintage objets d'art and memorabilia create a kitschy and eclectic yet funky vibe throughout El Bandido, making the whole place feel relaxed and fun. Chairs and stools of all types metal, wood, leather, designer and even plastic - casually rub shoulders with each other as if part of a cool stage set, which cleverly sets a general tone for enjoying life.

Meanwhile, seating for eating ranges from tables of all

shapes and sizes for friends to gather around, to an outdoor covered area for smokers and cosy booths inside for more intimate rendezvous.

terrace. The atmosphere in El Bandido becomes increasingly fun late at night once the live music has got going, so be sure to get comfy before the place starts to rock.

The French-influenced menu is uncomplicated and unpretentious, making the best of local produce and Colombian ingredients, and ranges from steak tartare to moules-frites and coq au vin. Chef Felipe Arizabaleta neither disguises his French roots in his cooking or uses unnecessary culinary paraphernalia to impress. The results are well executed, tasty and hearty food – perfect to fill your belly before a night of drinking. Two of the dishes we devoured – grilled octopus with creole potatoes, green mojo and fresh tomato salad; and Portobello mushrooms with a classic Bordelaise sauce – were both superb. Service is warm and attentive, and friendly waiters are happy to make food recommendations, importantly not always for the most-pricey items.

If you fancy a change of scenery and a slightly more refined environment, head to tiny bar Enano in the very back of the restaurant, separated from the main restaurant by an outdoor terrace. Located within a former storage area, Enano is essentially a chic, upscale speakeasy, inspired by master Austrian and Czech architect Adolf Loos’ renowned American Bar just off Kärntner Strasse in Vienna. In Enano, Bogotá’s tribute to the Austrian capital’s most famous watering hole is equally enchanting and beautifully detailed, and, with a capacity of just 15-20 people, has become the capital's best kept secret since opening in 2015.

The best spots to hang out with a strong mojito in hand are around the main bar, close to the piano or on the cool back

For me, Enano is undoubtedly the chicest bar in Bogotá, and El Bandido the best place to have fun while eating in the Colombian capital, and an opportunity to visit both in the same venue is simply not to be missed. www.elbandidobistro.com/en

BOGOTA'S BEST RESTAURANTS

CASTAN YOLES

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oodies on vacation in Bogotá simply cannot visit the Colombian capital without spending time in Zona G, as in gourmet. Once a quiet, residential neighbourhood near the city's financial district, Zona G is now an all-city dining hot spot that’s abuzz day and night with gastronomic delights, serving everything from upscale burgers and pizzas to fine dining and sumptuous brunches.

The area's outpost of Juan Valdez Café is Bogotá’s loveliest and most lively and particularly worth dropping into (www.juanvaldezcafe.com). Zona G sprawls over several blocks surrounding the intersections of Calle 70 and Carrera 5. At its heart you will find a boulevard of high end restaurants serving traditional and regional dishes with a gourmet edge. And you will find Four Seasons Casa Medina.

When the lovingly restored boutique 62-room Four Seasons Casa Medina opened a couple of years ago in the heart of Zona G, after a lengthy multi-million Dollar refurb, a Colombian hospitality legend was effectively reborn, thrusting the beloved local landmark into a new era and 132 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2018

crowning the country’s burgeoning hospitality industry with a fine new first-class hotel.

Within tripping distance of Bogotá’s financial and commercial core, the 1946-built hotel's imposing, hand-tooled wrought iron-decorated wooden entrance doors swing open to reveal shining parquet floors, fine woollen carpets, freshly polished panelling and majestic stone columns. Rich, wood-lined corridors, oozing with character, weave through the historic building, leading to sumptuous bedrooms, deluxe leisure facilities, elegant meeting spaces, a tapas bar and, at the hotel’s centre, a light-bathed glass-roofed open-plan restaurant, which has become the talk of the lunchtime crowd, and the go-to destination for many of the city’s most fashionable and influential people. Welcome to Castanyoles - named for the traditional hand-held percussion instruments also known as castanets, and conceptualised in the style of a traditional neighbourhood Spanish restaurant, updated to reflect the

way people gather and dine today by local designer Saul Sasson.

A living green wall contributes to the indoor/outdoor feel of the space, beneath a retractable glass ceiling, which can instantly transform Castanyoles into an al-fresco dining experience. In the restaurant’s El Virrey room, a collection of blue/white dinner plates handmade by local artist Camila Gomez is arranged above comfy banquette seating opposite a wine display wall. Outdoors, a stone fireplace creates a cosy enclave for guests to have a drink on chilly evenings, warmed by natural flames. In fact, the relaxed surroundings throughout Castanyoles – with its warm colour palette, Spanish tiles and modern furnishings – skilfully combine to create a chic and inviting atmosphere which positively encourages gourmands to lounge, sip, savour and share.

There is no rushing at Castanyoles. No pressure to eat quickly. No pressure to dive into the next dish and no pressure to leave, not least because Castanyoles is open

every day from 6am continuously through ‘til 10pm.

Castanyoles' menu offers one of Bogotá's finest selections of traditional Spanish cuisine, with an array of classic dishes boasting a medley of authentic flavours hailing from Southwest Europe’s Iberian Peninsula. Signature tapas plates include patatas con salsa brava y mahonesa de jamón (potatoes in smoky tomato sauce and ham mayonnaise) and jamón Ibérico de bellota con pico (ham made from free-range, acorn-fed pigs served with Spanish breadsticks). Of the mains, chuletón de res black angus, papa panadera caballo y germinados de berro is standout (steak with egg-topped potato and baby watercress).

Don’t visit Castanyoles if you’re watching your waistline or in a hurry to be somewhere – this is a place to enjoy both the food and the chic surroundings, and do a little people watching in between courses! www.fourseasons.com/bogotacm

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RAE’S ON WAT

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s Required

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TEGOS BEACH

If “Welcome to Byron Bay! Cheer Up. Slow down.

Chill out” sounds like the kind of mantra you fancy adopting on your next vacation, and your Australian holiday plans include Melbourne, Sydney or a Gold Coast road trip, then be sure to add a long weekend stay in Byron Bay to the itinerary.

Five minutes from Byron, Nicholas Chrisostomou enjoys a unique barefoot break at Rae’s boutique hotel, on legendary Wategos Beach.

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ong thought of as the peace and love capital of Australia, Byron Bay has come a long way since its humble beginnings. Striking an enchanting, cutesy balance between cruisy beach town, hipster surfer hangout and bijou cultural hub, whilst New South Wales’ dreamy seaside town is best known for its stunning beaches, excellent surf breaks and warm hippie character, one of the best things about Byron is its subtropical climate. Usually warm and rarely unbearably hot, when it rains in Byron it really pours, which brings out the sheer natural beauty of the lush greenery, hinterland and rainforest surrounding the place, lending another

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dimension to one’s Gold Coast beach experience. A typical day in Byron could consist of a morning walk up to the lighthouse followed by a swim in the gently rolling turquoise waves of Wategos Beach; lunch sprawled out on a patch of grass in front of Top Shop café; a trip to a local market or some whale watching; sunset cocktails and finger food at The Mez Club, and dinner at Harvest in nearby Newrybar village, which showcases the diversity of this wonderful part of NSW, including seasonal foods sourced from artisan producers. Byron Bay’s relaxed and unpretentious lifestyle – with its colourful mix of wealthy entrepreneurs, health fanatics, musicians, artists and creative types, living

side-by-side in harmony – unsurprisingly draws celebrities from around the world, many of whom stay at Rae’s on Wategos Beach.

One of Byron’s most iconic hotels, just five minutes’ drive from town and effortlessly oozing the perfect mix of Greek island simplicity married with Italian style, Rae’s is one of those places where once you have set foot inside you will almost certainly never want to leave. Perfectly positioned just a few metres back from legendary Wategos Beach, in the protective shadow of Cape Byron Lighthouse, Rae’s' setting is so relaxing and calming that, like me, you

probably won’t want to move your car, or indeed move at all from Rae’s until check-out time.

Once name-checked as one of the world’s top 25 hotels, it doesn’t take long to see why this handsome 7-room Mediterranean-style villa ranks amongst the best places on the planet to rest one’s head and take a load off. Rae’s is a genuinely blissful place to pause, de-stress and relax, and I literally had my shoes off within moments of parking-up. The aura and feel of the place is addictively chilled. Within an hour of being shown to my suite, I had nodded off on a sprawling day bed while gazing at the

surfers’ beach in front of me, Hendrick’s and tonic in hand, to a backdrop of gently crashing waves. I almost certainly could have stayed in that position for a good week. I’m calling it the "Rae’s Effect", because I simply cannot articulate the words to describe it. Yes I, the eternal globetrotter, with countless countries under my belt and an ornately descriptive vocabulary to match, simply cannot find the words to appropriately describe the overwhelmingly soothing effect Rae’s had on me so soon after checking-in, on a slightly overcast afternoon, having made the one-hour flight from Sydney and 100km drive from Gold Coast Airport to spend a few precious days on

the beach. And precious days they really were.

Originally a 1960s house built as a residence by Byron Bay local Ruth Harris, the building operated as a kiosk called “Argentine Ant Cantina” before a stint as “La Belle Époque” restaurant and private home in the 1970s. Legend has it that Salvador Dalí designed the tropical garden and pool as it was owned by a relative. Rae's was the brainchild of Helen Patterson and hotelier and restaurateur Vincent Rae, who bought the property in 1994, added a spa, filled it with an eclectic collection of antiques and artworks and began to welcome guests. Rae's' trademark Greek villa esque

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curvaceous facade and whitewashed walls, by now set among subtropical rainforest and bangalow palms, and offset by louvered timber shutters and a lush green lawn rolling down to the beach, were, for almost two decades, a veritable magnet to discerning international travellers seeking a secluded and exclusive place to stay, including Tom Cruise, Russell Crowe and Keith Richards.

In 2012, a mystery buyer, later revealed to be London financier William Morris, bought Rae's for AU$20million, but the sale was never finalised. By now, Rae had moved to Paris to marry the actress and Chanel muse Anna Mouglalis.

A year later, Melbourne-based publisher Antony Catalano bought the property and ushered in a renaissance for Rae's, together with an injection of new creative blood. This included a complete makeover of the renowned beachfront retreat by Sydney-based interior designer Tamsin Johnson, who introduced a minimalistic, uncluttered and unpretentious coastal feel throughout, using natural fabrics and a monochrome muted palette to update the villa, two penthouses and four suites. Unique pieces were added to the interior to complement the already beautiful bones of the property, whilst the widespread introduction of limestone, timber, sandstone planters, sculptural concrete

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shell lights, handwoven rattan furniture, and loose cotton and linen upholstery re-engaged Rae’s with Wategos Beach, and made the charming retreat sit more in sync within its peaceful, beachside surroundings. Works by Byron Bay artist Todd Hunter, photographer Tom Riley and a few other contemporary Australian abstract artists completed the top-to-toe refreshment of Rae’s last year.

My home for the weekend was Rae's largest accommodation - a sumptuous and generously-proportioned two-bedroom two-bathroom penthouse, complete with bar-cum-kitchenette, sunken dining room, open-plan lounge with fireplace and two private balconies overlooking Wategos Beach.

Rugs, gorgeous objets d’art, colourful artworks hanging on the walls, Moroccan alcoves, daybeds and wrought iron patio furniture, together with teak doors and floor tiles from a Javanese palace, gave the spacious apartment an utterly unique feel and intensely warm aura. Difficult to leave, I spent as much time as possible within the penthouse’s beautiful, cosseting portals.

Whilst I fail to see how the team could possibly improve Rae’s intimate and tailored personal service, future plans for the brand include the introduction of upscale boat and private air operations, with a luxury yacht refurbishment already completed by interior designer Tamsin Johnson.

Staying at Rae’s is akin to lodging within the warm heart of a well-travelled relative’s beautiful, sprawling home. Indulging in a spa treatment, lounging around the secluded private pool, relaxing on your own terrace, munching on beautifully-presented fresh and tasty fare, and sipping a glass of chilled Sauv Blanc while watching the world go by, are all part of a normal day at Rae’s. Here every guest is treated as family and the staff soon become friends. Privacy and peace abound, nothing is routine, nothing is cast in tablets of stone and nothing is too much travel for Rae’s affable team. During my stay I didn’t encounter one person who wasn’t naturally happy and helpful. It must have been something in the air around Wategos Beach. Or perhaps it was just the Rae’s Effect.

RISHIKESH THE ULTIMATE SOULFUL DESTINATION

SPOTLIGHT

On the banks of the Ganges, in the tranquil Himalayan foothills, Rishikesh is a renowned sanctuary for travellers seeking a deeper cultural understanding of northern India. Dawn Gibson follows in the footsteps of The Beatles, by studying yoga at one of the town’s many ashrams.

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T

he fast pace and interconnected nature of modern life has made real relaxation more sought after than ever before, especially during our precious time off from the daily grind. It’s not surprising, then, that blissful mountain and country sanctuaries are overwhelmingly popular, welcoming thousands of stressed out city dwellers every year, enticed by the lure of a break from demanding emails and phone messages.

However, if you’re a cultured traveller bored of typical retreats, and keen for a more novel respite from the everyday, you might like to consider booking a stay at an ashram, an Indian centre for meditation, yoga and spiritual awakening, traditionally presided over by a religious guru and their disciples. However, be forewarned – this is not an option to enter into carelessly, as you may find it one of the most challenging travel experiences of your life, from both a physical and a mental point of view. That said, the number of people who return to India year after year to visit ashrams is a glowing testimony to the relevance of this ancient practice to our increasingly busy lives.

While there are countless ashrams throughout India, I was lured to Rishikesh in the northern state of Uttarakhand, the self-proclaimed yoga capital of the world. From New Delhi I took a 50-minute flight to Jolly Grant Airport (DED) at Dehradun, followed by a 20km taxi ride onwards to Rishikesh.

A pilgrim destination for centuries, The Beatles put Rishikesh on the adventure tourism map when they travelled to Northern India in February 1968 to attend an advanced Transcendental Meditation (TM) training course at the ashram of Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, writing much of the material for their legendary White Album during their stay.

Though the ashram that hosted the Fab Four is now in ruins, Rishikesh itself continues to thrive.

The Hindu faithful flock to the banks of the Ganges at dawn and dusk to bathe in its soul cleansing waters, which are visibly much less polluted here than in towns downstream. Sadhus (holy men) in their distinctive bright orange robes sit watching passersby with eagle-sharp eyes, while sacred cows wander amongst the new age

THE BEATLES WITH MAHARISHI MAHESH YOGI IN RISHIKESH, INDIA IN 1968

tourists and crowds of women bedecked in vivid, jewel-coloured saris. Numerous vegetarian restaurants and cafés line the river, named in honour of Buddha or Shiva, together with stalls selling decorated statues of gods in bronze, jade and plastic. Alcohol and meat are banned in Rishikesh.

One cannot wander far in Rishikesh without chancing upon signs advertising yoga classes of all variations – Hatha, Ashtanga, Bikram and the rest – catering to every skill level.

If you just wish to dip your toe in, metaphorically speaking, classes are available at most of the hotels on a pay-as-you-go basis.

It is well worth investigating several ashrams personally before signing-up for a course, since the quality of accommodation and what’s on offer varies dramatically.

One ashram I visited had rooms so spartan they could have been prison cells, with shared toilet facilities that any decent prisoners’ union would surely protest about. Another had a 4.30am daily wake up call, an experience I decided I could do without, while a third required two months’ written notice in advance. Some ashrams offer free classes, whilst others operate on a donation basis. Basically, it’s well worth doing some proper research before booking any course, and the Himalayan Yoga Academy is a good place to start www.yogaacademy.in/programs.

I chose a seven-day course, with meals and accommodation included, at Shri Sant Sewa Ashram near Lakshman Jhula, one of the two pedestrian bridges. The rooms are basic but clean and functional, with the largest sporting balconies overlooking the river, providing a prime viewing spot for the powerful and spiritually uplifting Ganga Aarti candle ceremony, every evening, as dusk descends.

My course included two hours of Hatha yoga each morning and evening, followed by an hour of meditation. Hatha yoga, a highly popular branch of the ancient practice, was developed in the 15th century, drawing on traditions that go back to at least 200 BC. Asanas (physical postures) and

pranayama (breathing exercises) are used to bring balance and peace to the mind and body, as well as preparing the body for deeper spiritual practices such as meditation. (The word ‘yoga’ means ‘union’, referring to both the union of an individual with the universe as a whole, and the union of mind, body and spirit). Yogis claim each asana has specific health benefits, ranging from improving digestion to reducing aches and pains, and even curing sexual problems.

While I had taken a few yoga classes in the past, it did little to prepare me for the intensity of my first day at the ashram.

Even though the classes were advertised as ‘beginners’ yoga’, my body protested mightily as yogi Kamal Pandey Mar-May 2018 The Cultured Traveller 155

BABA SHIVA, ON THE BANKS OF THE GANGES, INDIA Mar-May 2018 The Cultured Traveller 157

encouraged me to manoeuvre spine and limbs through ‘the camel’, ‘the cobra’ and ‘the mountain’.

After four hours of practice, I was unsure which part of me was more fatigued. So, it was almost inevitable that the following meditation session was a bit of a failure. Instead of closing my eyes and taking a mental journey to a temple to meet God, as I was supposed to be doing, I was soon dozing on my mat. When I eventually opened my eyes, I was secretly pleased that I had not been the only one to have nodded off in our small group of eight participants. I also wondered if the vegetarian diet would be enough to sustain my body until the end of the week, as I thought longingly of the fat steak and glass of red wine I had consumed the day before I flew to India!

There were more tests of endurance to come. In keeping with Hatha yoga’s philosophy of bodily purification, I was expected to perform morning rituals that escalated in difficulty. The first purification ritual almost had me heading for the door. Dr Pandey, a wiry man in his thirties who had been teaching yoga and naturopathy for over a decade, explained that he wanted us to ‘give back his water’. This meant swallowing as many cups of warm salty water as the stomach would allow, and then vomiting the mixture back up. This process was intended to cleanse the digestive system. Although it sounds absolutely revolting, the ritual became more palatable as the days went by – yes, really. I found the initial revulsion faded with repetition, especially as one was performing this on an empty stomach.

While I never really got to grips with the rituals, the asanas did get easier, and I found my flexibility improve to a level I had not experienced since I was a teenager. I even did a back arch – something I thought I would never do – and as packed to depart, I looked visibly healthier and slimmer.

Upon leaving the ashram, back into the bustle of Rishikesh’s streets with their cows and sadhus, I vowed I would return. It had definitely been a different sort of travel adventure, quite literally a world away from the tropical beaches I usually opted for when I wanted to unwind, but I had reached a level of relaxation that I had never previously experienced.

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THRISSUR POORAM ELEPHANT FESTIVAL Decorated with gleaming headdresses, ornamental bells, palm leaves, peacock feathers and intricate paintings, elephants are the main attraction of this annual festival held in Thrissur, the cultural capital of the Indian state of Kerala.

25 April 2018

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TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

2

008 marked a noticeable change in Liverpool – England’s historic maritime city in the northwest of the nation, where the River Mersey meets the Irish Sea. A key trade and migration port from the 18th to the early 20th centuries, and famously the hometown of The Beatles, Liverpool had just celebrated its 800th birthday in 2007, when the following year the city became a European Capital of Culture.

This very public opportunity to showcase its cultural life and development marked the veritable rebirth of this characterful metropolis, the effects of which have yet to slow down. In fact, Liverpool so deftly used its Capital of Culture status to completely transform its cultural base, not to mention the way in which the city was viewed internationally, that one decade on, Liverpool still continues to develop and grow at such a pace that few could have imagined ten years ago. In tandem with this progression, the city’s restaurant, nightlife and tourist industries have also blossomed exponentially, resulting in a fascinating and well-rounded cultural destination, which holds its own internationally and makes for a fantastic city break.

Today, Liverpool is a powerhouse of architecture, art, culture and music, and is thriving like never before. This is evident throughout the city, not just in its friendly and warm people, who are distinctly proud of their cultural heritage, but also in every business connected with the tourist and hospitality industries. And the fact that the people of Liverpool love to share their life stories, inextricably connects visitors to locals in a unique and genuine way.

It didn’t take long for me to feel the spirit of the city’s people, after I disembarked the 2-hour train ride from London, at Lime Street station. Where else in the world does one discover the intricacies of a taxi driver’s daughter’s love life except in the back of a Liverpool cab? I honestly didn’t want to get out, as we pulled up outside my lodgings for the next few nights. In the past few years, Liverpool has been consistently ranked as the UK’s friendliest city, by everyone from Condé Nast Traveller and the Daily Mail to a YouGov poll, and after just a few minutes in the city it was obvious why. The people.

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Scousers are honest, happy-go-lucky types and they’re welcoming to all. I have a few cherished Scouser friends who are some of the warm and kindest people I know, but I had no idea that their warmth stretched to an entire city. Almost every Liverpudlian I met didn’t care where I was from and didn’t give a rat’s ass about my background. I was universally greeted with a smile and an “Alright?”. Moreover, Liverpudlians can’t easily finish a short sentence without giving you a title, and there was a certain charm to being called “la”, “babe”, "hun” and “queen” at the end of every exchange! The tone of my visit to Liverpool was set in those first few minutes fresh off the train, and at that point I just knew that I was going to love this city. But, where to start?

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From Liverpool to Blackpool and the Lake District, the city’s second-tallest building offers panoramic views across Merseyside, Wirral and North Wales, and is the perfect place to orientate oneself and kick-start your Northwest England experience. Originally designed to be a chimney (yes, really), St Johns Beacon stands some 450 feet above the heart of the city centre, and the 360-degree viewing gallery is situated on the level which once housed the famous Tower Restaurant in the 70s. Even here the staff were chatty and friendly, and the views from the top were quite spectacular (www.stjohnsbeacon.co.uk).

Liverpool has the most museums in the UK outside of London,

and the largest amount of Grade I listed buildings in the country...and that’s just the buildings. The jewel in the city’s UNESCO World Heritage crown, St. George’s Quarter, boasts some of the finest Victorian architecture in the country and every museum is free to get in and open every day (www.stgeorgesquarter.org). In terms of art, the city’s exhibitions cover everything from the classical to the contemporary, and the controversial to the downright crazy.

Within quite literally a few hundred metres of each other, I saw one of the UK’s most significant collections of ancient Egyptian and Nubian antiquities at World Museum, and a display of frocks owned by the cross-dressing artist and activist Grayson Perry at Walker Art Gallery. Called “Making Himself Claire”, the

latter was the first display of its kind in the UK, and included the “Bo Peep” dress worn by Perry when he won the Turner Prize in 2003 (www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk). Such variety is one of the hallmarks of Liverpool that I enjoyed immensely during my time exploring the city.

The happening heart of Liverpool’s historic World Heritage waterfront, and another of the city’s cultural and hospitality hotspots, is the picturesque Albert Dock complex. Home to a multitude of museums, galleries, restaurants, bars, shops and boutiques, Albert Dock features the largest collection of Grade I listed buildings and warehouses in the country, and blends old with new in a modern yet affably attractive style.

An afternoon or even a full day can easily spent in this fashionable part of the city, at the epicentre of which Tate Liverpool undoubtedly holds the city’s contemporary art crown.

Since opening in 1988, Tate Liverpool has become one of the most visited art galleries outside of London, and is the home of British and international modern and contemporary art in the North of England. Housed in one of Albert Dock’s bright, former warehouses, the museum contains four floors of public galleries, a very palatable café and a super gift shop. Past artists showcased include Gustav Klimt, Pablo Picasso, Andy Warhol and Claude Monet, and Tate Liverpool’s special exhibition programme, presented on the fourth floor, regularly brings together works from national and international collections, both public and private. Don’t miss the spectacular views across the Mersey from the museum’s top floor - they’re a hidden treat! (www.tate.org.uk/visit/tate-liverpool) Liverpool’s beautiful Georgian Quarter is a legacy of the city’s former wealth, and the area boasts one of the largest collections of terraced Georgian town houses outside London. Treading the cobbled streets of this picturesque district is to uncover a different story at every turn, and hence, unsurprisingly, the Georgian Quarter has become a hotspot for production companies filming everything from Hollywood blockbusters to TV dramas against the backdrop of its gorgeous intact buildings. Start at Rodney Street - once the favoured domain of Liverpool’s elite merchants – then venture towards Hope Street, winner of the Academy of Urbanism award for ‘Best Street’. Be sure to drop into The Philharmonic Dining Rooms at 36 Hope Street, famous for being one of the most lavish and ornate pubs in the country. Commissioned between 1898 and 1900, ‘The Phil’ is a showpiece hostelry in the style of a gentlemen‘s club, and a magnificent place to pause for a pint (www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk). After Hope Street, make your way towards Faulkner Square, and seek out eccentric Peter Kavanagh’s at 2 Egerton Street, one of the city’s most famous boozers (+44 151 709 3443). If you have some spare time, 168 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2018

Titanic Hotel Liverpool, Stanley Dock, Liverpool is all about the restoration of one of the city’s most historic and iconic buildings. Set within a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Titanic Hotel offers: • 153 stylish and spacious bedrooms or delicious evening meal.

• Sip coffee or a cocktail in Rum Bar overlooking the waters of Stanley Dock or, when the sun is shining, enjoy alfresco dining on the colonnade terrace.

• Maya Blue Wellness features a unique thermal suite, hydrotherapy pool, sanarium, relaxation area, extensive range of treatments and health & fitness centre.

Titanic Hotel adjoins the incredible Rum Warehouse and West Bay the hotels newest event space, the perfect venues to host a conference, wedding, dinner or special occasion.

Titanic Hotel is an experience less ordinary.

0151 559 144

TitanicHotelLiverpool Stanley Dock, Regent Road, Liverpool, L30AN

titanichotelliverpool.com

visit neo-classical St Bride’s on Percy Street – the beautiful Liverpool church which feeds more people now than in the days of the Victorian workhouse. The real beauty of the Georgian Quarter is that even if you veer off the beaten track, you will almost always find hidden treasure.

Dominating the skyline at one end of Hope Street is Liverpool Cathedral, one of two great places of worship in the city, both of which are worth visiting. Completed in 1978 and containing around 1700m² of stained glass, Liverpool Cathedral took seventy-four years to build. It is Britain’s biggest cathedral, the largest Anglican cathedral in Europe and the fifth largest in the world. Two lifts and 108 stairs will

get you to the top of the single, massive Vestey Tower, 500m above sea level, from which visitors enjoy spectacular views across the city (www.liverpoolcathedral.org.uk). At the other end of Hope Street, the contrasting Liverpool Metropolitan Cathedral is another of the city’s magnificent landmarks, and the perfect place to stop and pause for a moment. This dramatic icon of faith, architecture and human endeavour is impressive in both scale and design, and Metropolitan Cathedral regularly hosts cultural events including music concerts and recitals. Its scrummy once-monthly Sunday cream teas are a bargain, GBP3.50 buys you fresh scones served with jam and clotted cream together with unlimited tea, and all monies raised go to the Mar-May 2018 The Cultured Traveller 171

cathedral. (www.liverpoolmetrocathedral.org.uk) As one moves around Liverpool it is impossible not to notice the city’s striking architecture, much of which tells its own story. Defining the city’s dramatic skyline and dominating Liverpool’s historic waterfront is a collection of three buildings which have come to be known collectively as The Three Graces; the Royal Liver Building, the Cunard Building and the Port of Liverpool Building. These majestic buildings were conceived and constructed in the early 1900s as visible symbols of Liverpool’s international prestige, and remain a focal point of the city’s heritage more than a century later. Of the three, the Royal Liver Building is the jewel in the crown, Liverpool’s signature landmark and is adorned by two, copper “liver birds”, each of which stands 18ft tall with a 24ft wingspan. One looks out to sea to guide boats safely into port, while the other keeps a watchful eye on the city, protecting its citizens. Legend has it that if the two birds ever face each other, Liverpool will cease to exist. The mythical liver bird is Liverpool’s emblem, and you’ll see them on architecture dotted across the city.

Liverpudlians know a thing or two about how to dine and drink, and it’s rare that you’ll see a local shying away from a bevvy (or three), a good slap-up meal or the opportunity to party. For starters, you simply must sample the city’s fine gin. A premium product, made from scratch in hand beaten copper stills in the heart of the city using only certified organic botanicals, Liverpool Gin is a distinctive, complex and aromatic gin with a bright citrus finish. Try the Rose Petal variation for a special G&T with a fragrant, almost romantic, nose. (www.liverpoolgin.com) To launch a Liverpool weekend in supreme style, head up to Panoramic 34, 100m above sea level on the 34th floor of West Tower, and watch the sunset over the city’s magnificent skyline, with the Royal Liver Building practically at touching distance (www.panoramic34.com). Back on terra firma, The Alchemist (thealchemist.uk.com) and Neighbourhood (www.neighbourhoodrestaurant.co.uk) consistently serve some of the city’s best cocktails in glamorous and happening surroundings.

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Meanwhile Ma Boyle’s is a historic public house dating back to 1870, presided over by charming staff serving a selection of local ales and delicious home-cooked food. Ma Boyle’s’ Saturday jazz nights are also very popular (www.maboylesliverpool.com).

The restaurant scene in Liverpool has exploded in the last five years and now offers a complete British culinary journey, sufficient to satiate even the most discerning of palates. In fact, Liverpool’s blossoming foodie scene puts many other British cities to shame. From independent street food to traditional local dishes, modern British fare and top-end fine dining, Liverpool offers a vast range of places to eat which

cater to every pocket and appetite.

Making the most of the fine local produce and seasonal ingredients available in and around Liverpool, renowned chef Paul Askew’s celebrated Art School restaurant almost certainly provides the city’s premium dining experience. Set in what was once the stunning lantern room of the 1888 Victorian ‘Home for Destitute Children’ building on Sugnall Street, to dine here is to be treated to the best food the city has to offer, complemented by a superb wine list and exemplary service. Don’t miss the recently unveiled Art School Cellars downstairs, perfect for a pre-theatre drink or post dinner nightcap (www.theartschoolrestaurant.co.uk).

For a more informal dining experience, drop anchor at the

WHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD DOES ONE DISCOVER THE INTRICACIES OF A TAXI DRIVER'S DAUGHTER'S LOVE LIFE EXCEPT IN THE BACK OF A LIVERPOOL CAB? Mar-May 2018 The Cultured Traveller 175

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restaurant at Malmaison hotel in Princes Dock. Here, a fiery riot of exposed brickwork, high ceilings and industrial pipework provides the perfect setting for hearty, well-prepared brasserie-style food, served by warm and attentive staff (www.malmaison.com).

Other highly recommended places to eat in Liverpool, include 60 Hope Street (www.60hopestreet.com), multi award-winning London Carriage Works (www.thelondoncarriageworks.co.uk), Stanley’s Bar and Grill at the Titanic hotel (www.titanichotelliverpool.com) and Etsu - which almost certainly serves the finest Japanese food in the city (www.etsu-restaurant.co.uk). One thing’s for sure when dining out in Liverpool – you won’t go home hungry

and you’ll almost certainly have a story or two to tell!

If you were to ask me what makes Liverpool feel so different to other British cities I would struggle to keep my list short.

The city just has so many positives. Liverpool is a place that is so steeped in cultural references and artistic creativeness that there can be very people in the world who are not in some way captivated by its genuine charms. For me, the warm people are Liverpool’s iconic stars and the buildings its architectural gems, but these are just two of the city’s unique characteristics that will almost certainly see me returning to this metropolitan jewel of northwest England again and again.

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LIVERPOOL TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

Liverpool’s most famous international export is undoubtedly The Beatles. Utter the city’s name to almost anyone around the world, and they will probably mention Paul, George, Ringo and John. So, no visit to Liverpool is really complete without a trip to the world's largest permanent exhibition entirely devoted to telling the story of The Beatles’ rise to fame.

Even if you are not a Beatles fan, the award-winning Beatles Story, located in the heart of Liverpool's Albert Dock, takes visitors on an interesting and immersive journey through the lives, times, culture and music of possibly the world’s greatest band. Visitors are chronologically led through The Beatles’ journey, via a clever hand-held multi-media audio guide beautifully narrated by John Lennon’s sister, Julia. Available in a dozen different languages, jam-packed with information and featuring video interviews with Paul McCartney and Ringo Starr, the audio guide gives visitors a unique insight into the story of the Fab Four, via believable walk-through recreations of key locations from the band’s career, including The Casbah Club, The Cavern Club and Abbey Road Studios. Dotted along the way are the original red gates to the Strawberry Field site, John Lennon’s New York piano, Ringo Starr’s drum kit, rare album sleeves and a ton of other memorabilia. Spend an hour at The Beatles Story, learning about England’s most famous rock band, before treating yourself to a leisurely lunch in Albert Dock. www.beatlesstory.com

LIVERPOOL TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

Combining contemporary touches with the genteel feel of a bygone era, Liverpool’s DoubleTree feels way more authentic and luxurious than a standard Hilton property. Situated on one of the city’s most historical sites, in the heart of Liverpool’s business district on St. Thomas Street, the nightlife of the Cavern Quarter, shopping at Liverpool ONE and the museums of St George’s Quarter are all barely a five-minute walk away, making the DoubleTree the perfect location for a city break or long weekend.

Housed within two architecturally and historically significant Grade II listed buildings - one of which began life in 1865 as the stately Liverpool Conservative Club, and was opened by then Prime Minister Lord Salisbury - and connected by a 180 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2018

third new-build annexe, it took almost a decade to lovingly bring this boutique hotel to life, whilst retaining the property's previous grandeur. 87 rooms and suites, across three labyrinth-like wings, feature characterful touches including fabric headboards and window-seat benches with lots of dark grey and green hues to complement the original wood panelling.

Spacious, competitively-priced suites include a lounge, duplex bedrooms and black marble-lined bathrooms.

When staying at Liverpool’s DoubleTree, be sure to sip a cup of Earl Grey amidst the dusty tomes and leather Chesterfields in the wood-panelled Library Room, which managed to survive the conversion and blissfully retains the refined ambiance of the former erstwhile gentlemen’s club. www.doubletree3.hilton.com

LIVERPOOL TRAVELLER LOWDOWN There are many ways to tour a new destination or get a feel for a city, but few offer the experience of multi award-winning Shiverpool. When visiting Liverpool, throw away your guidebook and give the open-top bus a miss.

Instead, book a Shiverpool tour, and be chased down a Liverpool alleyway in the dark of night by a ghastly ghoul with a shovel! Shiverpool is an utterly unique interactive storytelling experience, blending street theatre, dark humour and sinister tales to reveal Liverpool’s culture, hidden mysteries and supernatural secrets.

There are two regular Shiverpool tours - “The Hope Street Shivers” and “Auld City & The Dead House Tour”. The former starts outside Liverpool's most famous ale house, The Philharmonic Pub, explores Hope Street and the surrounding areas, and ends in St James' Gardens “where 58,000 souls are buried”.

The Cultured Traveller experienced the latter and met our theatrical guide “Chilla Black” at the Queen Victoria Monument in the heart of Liverpool's commercial district.

The following 90-minutes were an intensely enjoyable journey on foot around the original seven streets of Liverpool, revealing the area's ghostly medieval past. We chanced upon old plague pits and the old Liverpool Gaol, and were regaled with tales of the strange ghostly figures seen wandering barefoot along the city’s streets. The tour’s scary subterranean finale left us terrified but highly entertained and wanting more.

To see Liverpool in a different light, book a Shiverpool tour. It will be the best GBP15.50 you will have ever spent to be chilled and scared! www.shiverpool.co.uk

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Housed within a red brick, iron and steel Grade II listed 19th century former rum warehouse in Stanley Dock, and simply oozing industrial chic glamour, Titantic is a massive, spacious property, offering a very different type of hospitality experience to Liverpool’s city centre hotels. Yes, Titanic is located slightly adrift from the city’s main cultural and recreational hubs, a few miles downstream from Albert Dock and about a ten-minute taxi ride away from the city centre, but these small inconveniences pale into insignificance when you open the door to your hugely spacious guest room, the smallest of which are a whopping 56sqm.

Each of Titanic’s 153 rooms and suites offers the pared-back appeal of a cool, city loft apartment. Think red brick vaulted ceilings, exposed pipework, pale grey walls, chocolate-coloured sofas and king-size beds. Vast bedrooms are complemented by huge bathrooms which include twin sinks, deep-soaking tubs and walk-in monsoon rainshowers. It’s 184 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2018

LIVERPOOL TRAVELLER LOWDOWN

worth requesting a dual aspect “Superior Corner" room on the fourth (top) floor, with windows towards the hulking, abandoned 14-storey Tobacco Warehouse next door (made of 27 million bricks and at one time the largest brick building in the world) and the Mersey to the front. There’s nothing that makes you feel more like you’re staying in northwest England’s famous maritime city, than opening your curtains to views of the River Mersey in the morning, and tempting window seats in the hotel’s biggest rooms offer a terrific vista of the busy waterway.

Downstairs there are some very good F&B options if you don’t fancy heading into town. In keeping with Titanic’s history, Rum Bar serves 68 different types of rum in a warm yet spacious lounge-styled space, whilst the cavernous Stanley’s Bar & Grill specialises in grills and traditional British fare and serves a very good Sunday roast and generous full English in the mornings. www.titanichotelliverpool.com

CINCO DE MAYO Commemorating the military victory of the Mexicans over the French on 5th May 1862, the festival of Cinco de Mayo is celebrated in the state of Puebla with costumed paraders, Mexican dancers, mariachi bands, parties and dancing filling the streets.

5 May 2018

TASTE &SIP

EXPERIENCE KTIMA GEROVASSILIOU WINERY EPANOMI, GREECE

Nicholas Chrisostomou visits idyllic Ktima Gerovassiliou vineyard, nestled amongst the slopes of Epanomi just outside Greece’s second city, where he enjoys an altogether relaxed yet sophisticated wine tasting experience

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Although Greece may still have some work to do before it can fully shake off its reputation for aggressively pine resin-flavoured retsina, it’s safe to say that Greek wine is officially having a moment, and quite rightly so. Greece has, of course, a rich and celebrated history of winemaking, which is as ancient as the marble columns that line the Parthenon, so it’s hardly surprising that the country’s wine culture has finally come into line with its flourishing tourist industry.

Archaeologists have uncovered in Greece winemaking artefacts that date as far back as 1600 BC, confirming that the country played an enormous role in the early wine trade. The Greeks can even be credited with establishing an appellation system to ensure quality and place of origin.

Yet, whilst winemaking is an ancient art form that has been around for centuries in Greece, due to technological advances it is now moving forward at quite a pace, whilst still retaining longstanding traditions.

Greece’s rugged landscape provides the perfect terroir for red, white, rosé and even sparkling wines, and in its modern incarnation the Greek winemaking industry happily seems determined to avoid the Chardonnay-and-Cabernet-only trap. Updated winemaking technology blended with the nation’s 300 indigenous grape varieties has done much to elevate the modern-day perception of Greek viticulture. Ample sun, minimal rainfall and an abundance of rough soil set the stage for some serious grape growing, and collectively

make for a winning combination. Greek winemakers of today - with a respectable nod to antiquity - are working tirelessly to bring Greek wine back into vogue, perhaps none more so than Vangelis Gerovassiliou and his family, who have been involved in vine cultivation and winemaking since 1981, and now produce a variety of internationally renowned and award-winning wines.

Approximately 25km southwest of Thessaloniki on the Greek mainland, in a verdant area characterised as Mediterranean by mild winters and warm summers that are gently tempered by sea breezes, lies the idyllic Ktima Gerovassiliou winery, nestled amongst the slopes of Epanomi. Surrounded by sea on three sides, with views of the mythological Mount Olympus in the distance, renders

this relatively small but perfectly formed 63-hectare vineyard utterly peaceful and verging on magical. The grounds are festooned with lush foliage and fragrant herbs, as well as an array of eye-catching modern sculptures, including some fashioned by famed Greek artist Kostas Varotsos, who designed the 30-foot-tall glass sculpture of running man “Dromeas”, which can be seen in front of the Athens Hilton.

Hailing from a local agricultural family based in Epanomi, after finishing his studies at the School of Agronomy at Thessaloniki’s Aristotle University, Vangelis Gerovassiliou furthered his education by specialising in oenology and viticulture at the University of Bordeaux in South-West France. Here Gerovassiliou developed such an intense Mar-May 2018 The Cultured Traveller 191

passion for winemaking, that in 1981 he revived the family vineyard by planting the almost extinct Greek grape variety, Malagousia. Gerovassiliou effectively saved this old and forgotten variety from extinction, with the help of Aristotle University Professor of Viticulture Vassilis Logothetis, and became the first to produce wine from this native grape.

More than 35 years later, Ktima Gerovassiliou still researches and experiments with Greek and foreign varieties, and strives to produce exclusive and high-quality wines from grapes cultivated in privately owned vineyards. This is all part of the charm and beauty of Ktima Gerovassiliou visitors can visibly see the passion that runs through the family and the team which manages the vineyard. Today, all of Vangelis Gerovassiliou’s three children are involved in different aspects of the family business, their collective

enthusiasm is very much evident in the taste of the domaine's wines, and Epanomi’s unique microclimate means that the wines embody distinct characteristics from the region that cannot be found anywhere else.

Gerovassiliou now grows a large number of grape varieties, both Greek and international, and there are few better ways to enjoy some real down time, than relaxing on the veranda of the vineyard’s contemporary visitor centre, completed in 2014. Here, a short visit can easily turn into a delightfully long and lazy afternoon, taking in the gorgeous setting and looking out across the vines, while dining al fresco on a host of freshly-prepared and intensely appetising Greek dishes reasonably priced, served informally and paired with the estate’s superb wines.

Of the whites, one of my favourites was Gerovassiliou Malagousia - a floral and peachy wine with bright acid and a whiff of honey, a little like walking in a rose garden. This is the grape that Gerovassiliou revived from near extinction, and it delivers a luscious range of citrus and tropical notes. Now a perennial favourite, and a wine I often order when dining in Greek establishments around the world, is Gerovassiliou Sauvignon Blanc-Fumé. Cultivated in several blocks of the estate's vineyards, after skin contact this wine is fermented in French oak barrels and then aged on lees for a few months, resulting in a bouquet of tropical notes, a rich yellow-gold colour and a toasty vanilla taste on the palate. Of the estate’s reds, I loved Gerovassiliou Avaton, made up of three different Greek grapes: 40% Limnio, 40% Mavrotragano and 20% Mavroudi. This divine blend includes Limnio, a grape first

mentioned by a number of Ancient Greek writers including Homer, Hesiod and Polydefkis, making it a unique artefact of ancient viticulture. Avaton is a plush and elegant wine that drinks like an expensive sports car - racy but refined, with dark berry fruits and vanilla undertones.

The beauty of visiting Ktima Gerovassiliou winery is in the marriage of the informal and the sophisticated in one breathtaking location. Gerovassiliou’s wines and fare are accomplished, sophisticated and complete, whilst the environment in which they are served is wonderfully informal and relaxed, making a visit to the vineyard a calm and highly enjoyable experience and an opportunity never to missed, particularly when in Greece’s second city, Thessaloniki. www.gerovassiliou.gr/en

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music & NIGHT LIFE

IN A CAREER SPANNING HALF A CENTURY, DAVID BOWIE CHANGED THE FACE OF POPULAR MUSIC. FROM SPACE CADET TO GLAM ROCK GOD, ELECTRO PIONEER TO SONG AND DANCE MAN, HIS TALENT FOR REINVENTION DAZZLED AND CONFOUNDED CRITICS AND INSPIRED DEVOTION AMONG HIS LEGIONS OF FOLLOWERS. PAUL BURSTON CHARTS THE MANY ‘CH-CH-CHANGES’ OF ROCK’S GREATEST CHAMELEON

DAVID BOWIE

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He was, by his own admission, a “faker”, a magpie, a borrower of other people’s ideas. But in a career spanning half a century, David Bowie was also a glam rock god, a blue-eyed soul boy, an electro pioneer, an inspiration to many and a musical genius matched by only a few.

It wasn’t until the singer reinvented himself as an alien messiah from Mars that things really took off

Fifty years separate his first album and his last, the jazz-influenced ‘Blackstar’, released two days before his death and riddled with clues about his liver cancer diagnosis and imminent departure. As his longtime producer Tony Visconti said at the time, Bowie died as he’d lived – making art.

He very nearly gave up on pop stardom. After several false starts in the ’60s, Bowie’s breakthrough finally came in 1969 with ‘Space Oddity’. Chosen as the official song of the moon landings, the single rocketed up the charts. But having tasted stardom, the curly haired space cadet failed to match its success. It wasn’t until the singer reinvented himself as an alien messiah from Mars that things really took off. In a bold move that would characterise his career from this point forward, Bowie created a fictional rock god called Ziggy Stardust – and then became him.

Released in 1972, ‘The Rise and Fall of Ziggy Stardust and the Spiders From Mars’ is what one might loosely call a concept album. Musically, it’s rock opera meets drag show with a bit of proto-punk thrown in for good measure. Politically, it’s dynamite.

Released at a time when many people thought the UK was going down the pan, torn apart by strikes and social unrest, Bowie’s vision of a dystopian future borrowed heavily from ‘A Clockwork Orange’ while embracing the emerging gay rights movement. Ziggy Stardust was a bisexual alien sent to Earth to warn people of impending doom. The fact that his message boils down to “let the children boogie” only added to his appeal.

When Bowie first appeared on ‘Top of the Pops’, performing as Ziggy and singing ‘Starman’, a youth cult was born. Fans turned up at concerts dressed as their idol.

Graffiti proclaimed ‘Bowie is Ziggy, Ziggy Is God!’ Bowie toured America and Japan and released a second ‘Ziggy’ album, the iconic ‘Aladdin Sane’. His first album to reach number one, it spawned the hit singles ‘Jean Genie’ and ‘Drive In Saturday’. And then, just when he’d reached the level of success he’d always dreamed of, Bowie famously killed Ziggy off. “Not only is it the last show of the tour,” he told a shocked audience at the Hammersmith Odeon in July 1973. “It’s the last show we’ll ever do!”

‘Bowie quits!’ cried the British music press, whereas in fact he was simply shedding last year’s persona before moving on to his next incarnation. This concept – of reinvention and rebirth – became a recurring theme of his work. Throughout the 70s, the only constant in Bowie’s career was change. He even wrote a song about it – ‘Changes’, which served as a kind of mission statement. He changed his image and musical influences. He changed his hairstyle and adopted a series of theatrical alter egos. After Ziggy and Aladdin he reinvented himself as Halloween Jack for 1974’s ‘Diamond Dogs’, The Gouster for the following year’s ‘Young Americans’ and, most 196 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2018

notoriously, The Thin White Duke for 1976’s ‘Station To Station’.

Later, Bowie would describe The Thin White Duke as “a very nasty character indeed”. Painfully thin, with slicked back hair and a haughty demeanour, the Duke flirted with fascist imagery and was very much a product of Bowie’s fractured mental state at the time.

By the mid ’70s, he was holed up in a mansion in Los Angeles, surviving on a diet of milk, peppers and vast amounts of industrial strength cocaine, a rock casualty waiting to happen. It’s a measure of just how far gone he was at the time that Bowie had no recollection of recording the ‘Station to Station’ album, regarded by many as one of the finest of his career. The epic title track became a firm favourite with fans, while the single ‘Golden Years’ led to an infamous appearance on the black American music show ‘Soul Train’, where he also performed his number one hit ‘Fame’. The singer’s altered state didn’t go unnoticed.

When the ‘Station to Station’ tour ended, Bowie moved to Berlin in an attempt to clean up his act, finally facing his demons and working with Brian Eno on the so-called ‘Berlin trilogy’ of ‘Low’, ‘Heroes’ and ‘Lodger’. Though 1977’s ‘Low’ album confounded critics at the time, its impact was enormous. Without it, it’s unlikely that we’d have seen the likes of Gary Numan, Ultravox, The Human League or any of the electro-pop posers who dominated the British charts in the late 70s and early 80s.

A decade into his career, Bowie had spawned many imitators and inspired a number of youth cults, most notably the so-called New Romantics. Comprised largely of former punks who hung out at the ‘Bowie Nights’ hosted by Steve Strange and Rusty Egan, the New Romantics dressed like their idol and shared his passion for reinvention – and pretension. Steve Strange famously turned people away from his club for not being stylish enough. When Bowie dropped by unexpectedly in late 1979,

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he was treated like royalty – unlike Mick Jagger, who was reportedly refused entry.

Bowie wasn’t simply there for a night out. He was also recruiting. His latest album ‘Lodger’ hadn’t exactly set the charts alight and he was planning a new look and album for the dawn of the new decade. 1980’s ‘Scary Monsters’ was a critical and commercial success. The album spawned several hit singles, the first of which, ‘Ashes to Ashes’, went to number one. The ground-breaking music video features Bowie in a pierrot costume, walking along a desolate beach with Steve Strange and friends following closely behind.

The message was clear – Bowie was still the leader of the gang, the others merely followers. The second single, ‘Fashion’ cast a withering look at club culture but was also Bowie’s most danceable hit in years – and a hint at what was to come.

Throughout the 70s, the only constant in Bowie’s career was change. He even wrote a song about it – ‘Changes’

For many critics and fans alike, ‘Scary Monsters’ remains The Last Great Bowie Album. Few would make that claim for his next album, ‘Let’s Dance’.

Having spent the ’70s one step ahead of the competition, Bowie now seemed content to tread water in an attempt to appeal to the mainstream. Produced by Chic’s Nile Rodgers, the title track was a monster hit – and deservedly so. But the album was patchy at best, with the only other standout tracks a cover of Iggy Pop’s ‘China Girl’ and a re-recording of Bowie’s earlier hit ‘Cat People (Putting Out Fire)’. The shortage of new material suggested that the master of reinvention had finally run out of ideas.

Later, Bowie described the enormous success of ‘Let’s Dance’ as a poisoned chalice. Suddenly he was competing with the likes of Phil Collins. The nadir came in 1987 with ‘Never Let Me Down’. The irony of that title wasn’t lost on the fans. As the 80s drew to a close, and in an attempt to free himself from the weight of public expectations, Bowie formed Tin Machine and declared himself to be “just one of the band”. It was a bold move, but the fans weren’t really buying it. In 1990, he caved in to public pressure with

the ‘Sound and Vision Tour’, performing all the hits he swore he’d never play live again.

On his 69th birthday, he released his final album, ‘Blackstar’ – and by now, David Bowie really was dying

Nobody would suggest that Bowie’s 90s output was as consistently inventive as his run of albums in the 1970s. But by the mid 90s, he’d certainly got his groove back. Conceived as part of a trilogy with his old collaborator Brian Eno, ‘Outside’ marked a return to edgy, experimental form. Bowie then turned to drum ‘n’ bass for 1997’s ‘Earthling’ album. That year also saw him turn 50 – a milestone he marked with a major concert in Central Park. Guest performers included Lou Reed, Foo Fighters, Sonic Youth and The Cure’s Robert Smith.

By the new millennium, Bowie’s reputation was pretty much restored. The ‘Heathen’ album of 2003 and the following year’s ‘Reality’ were both well received, with many critics describing them as his best work since ‘Scary Monsters’. (It became a bit of a running joke that each new Bowie album from the mid 90s onwards was described as his best since ‘Scary Monsters’). The accompanying live concerts showed an artist more at ease with himself and his own legacy, happily playing songs he’d once sworn never to sing again. Then, following a suspected heart attack on stage, David Bowie disappeared from view. Some said that he’d retired, others that he was seriously ill or dying. The Flaming Lips even wrote a song about it – ‘Is David Bowie Dying?’

Then in January 2013, to mark his 66th birthday, the old faker released a new single, ‘Where Are We Now?’ The title sounded like a typical Bowie joke. He hadn’t released a single in a decade. His last public appearance was in 2006. Fans had been left wondering where David Bowie was and what we were supposed to make of his disappearance.

‘Where Are We Now?’ was released without any advance publicity and shot to number one in the download charts, making it Bowie’s biggest hit in almost 30 years and prompting a resurgence of interest in a man who’d been making headlines since the early 1970s. The album, ‘The Next Day’ was similarly well received and opened with the singer apparently tackling those rumours of ill health head on. “Here I am, not quite dying” he sings on the title track. Bowie, it appeared, was back. But not for long.

Three years later, on his 69th birthday, he released his final album, ‘Blackstar’ – and by now, David Bowie really was dying. The lyrics are full of references to his own mortality.

“Look up here, I’m in heaven” he sings on ‘Lazarus’. The announcement of his death from liver cancer came just two days after the album was released. In Brixton, south London, where Bowie was born, thousands gathered in the streets, singing along to ‘Starman’. Others were filmed by news reporters as they laid flowers at the memorial off Brixton High Street. People spoke about what he meant to them, this local boy who became a star and changed the face of rock music.

“I don’t know where I’m going from here,” Bowie once said. “But I promise it won’t be boring.” He wasn’t wrong.

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TASTE &SIP

INTERVIEW PAUL ASKEW

THE CELEBRATED BRITISH CHEF AND CREATIVE FORCE BEHIND LIVERPOOL'S FINE ART SCHOOL RESTAURANT, CHATS WITH THE CULTURED TRAVELLER ABOUT HIS COLOURFUL CAREER, THE ROYAL ACADEMY OF CULINARY ARTS’ APPRENTICESHIP SCHEME AND WINNING A PRESTIGIOUS NATIONAL AWARD

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WAS THERE MUCH COOKING IN THE ASKEW HOUSEHOLD WHEN YOU WERE YOUNG? There was a lot of cooking, always something going-on in the house, and my mother and father were a great hospitality double act. My father – being the old sea dog that he was – took on the self-appointed role of chief barman – serving the drinks, or “ships tots” as he would call them. No one ever had an empty glass! My mum, meanwhile, is what I’d call a very good home cook, and so there were lots of cottage pies, spaghetti Bolognese, the occasional curry and a supremely good traditional Sunday roast. There was always a sense of ceremony when we had 206 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2018

people round, and that’s probably what influenced and inspired me. My Mum would be both the catering and entertainment – she’d often start singing or playing the piano at these evenings – whilst my dad would top up guests’ glasses and recount tales from the sea.

AS A KID WHAT DID YOU WANT TO BE? Having travelled so much in my early years, my first notion of a career stemmed from an obsession with travel and food culture. I was fascinated with aviation and until the age of about 12 I wanted to be an air traffic controller. The big change came in Dubai, when I had a birthday party and

my dad asked a friend to prepare a big pot of chicken biryani. The way he put together all of the spices from scratch, portioned the chicken, cut the onions, prepared the rice, and, the end product, of course, has stayed in my memory since then.

YOUR FATHER WAS A MERCHANT NAVY SEA CAPTAIN AND YOU SPENT A LOT OF YOUR YOUTH AWAY FROM HOME. WHICH CITIES HAD THE MOST EFFECT ON YOU FROM A CULINARY PERSPECTIVE? The souks of Dubai, the fruit and veg and the spice markets – even today I may smell an aroma that triggers a memory

and transports me back to the U.A.E., not least the vividness, the colours and the theatre as they haggled over prices. Singapore was a tropical foodie’s paradise – rather like New York but in Asia. By the time I arrived in New York I was a chef and the produce available was unreal. The time I spent in NYC was a defining point in my life and career, so the “Big Apple” will always hold a special place in my culinary heart.

AT WHAT JUNCTURE DID YOU REALISE THAT COOKING WAS YOUR PASSION? The experience of going back and forth to Singapore in my

early teens surely had an influence but I wasn’t entirely aware of it at the time. Around the age of 15, when I was back at Wirral Grammar School and living with my sister, I got a job at Thornton Hall as a pot washer in the run-up to my O level exams. At that moment I realised that I really liked kitchen life. I particularly enjoyed the camaraderie and liked the fact that there were Spanish waiters, Italian bartenders and the team was so cosmopolitan. There was also this crazy chef, who enjoyed a Guinness and had worked on cruise ships. He cooked beautifully and taught us all some really important lessons, including high standards that are still part of my ethos today.

DO YOU REMEMBER THE FIRST MEAL OR DISH THAT AWAKENED YOUR PALETTE? My Dad used to take me to this hawker centre in Singapore, where you could pick your own snake, frog, turtle or crab, all of which were alive, in tanks. Your choice would be prepared in front of you, while you’d sit at a picnic table with a bottle of beer. My Dad’s favourite was chilli crab. I

loved satay – straight off the chargrill. I also used to eat a lot of squid, cooked part Malay part Chinese style. I think these were the dishes that really first got to me, and I remember thinking how amazing the flavours. It was the quality of the ingredients more than anything else.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR TIME WORKING IN NEW YORK? I worked for a Jewish-owned company call Herbert’s (now Birch Hill), which had a big banqueting operation and four restaurants in downtown Albany, the capital of New York state, not far from Catskill Mountains. Albany is close to Saratoga Race Course, so we used to do a lot of work for the jockey club. I was literally all over the place. One minute I’d be in town at one of the restaurants – the next I’d be catering a dinner for 500 at the race course. The biggest meal I was involved with was a clam bake and BBQ for around 2,500 people at a country and western festival. Barbequing ribs for so many people nearly killed us as a team, but we did it! American life was fast and furious, but I had the most wonderful time, and my stint in the States effectively turned me from a sous into a head chef.

“Our guests know and rely on the fact that we have a strict policy about the integrity of our ingredients, and we produce good, honest food, which is all about real flavours and genuine quality”

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WHERE WAS YOUR FIRST EXECUTIVE CHEF POSITION? “Exec chef” is a funny term which has never really sat well with me. It’s something that everyone sets out to achieve but nobody seems to really know why. To me an exec chef doesn’t do that much cooking but sits in an office with his/her jacket on and authorises invoices for payment. A working head chef, or a chef-patron (chef-owner) is what I always wanted to be. Saying that, I was exec chef at the Liverpool Philharmonic in the mid 1990s, but only because the concert hall combined two jobs, and I was both the catering manager and the head chef!

WHAT POSITION OR ESTABLISHMENT WOULD YOU SAY WAS THE TURNING POINT IN YOUR CAREER? Definitely the Liverpool Philharmonic, because one minute I’d be cooking for Buena Vista Social Club, and the next I’d be in the Town Hall cooking for the Queen! My role was so diverse that it really put me on the map in Liverpool.

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SINCE OPENING IN 2014, YOUR LIVERPOOL RESTAURANT, THE ART SCHOOL, LOCATED IN THE CITY’S GEORGIAN QUARTER, HAS BEEN CONSISTENTLY NAME-CHECKED AS ONE OF NORTH ENGLAND’S BEST RESTAURANTS. WHY DO YOU THINK THIS IS THE CASE? If I was to hesitate a guess, I’d say that our guests know and rely on the fact that we have a strict policy about the integrity of our ingredients, and we produce good, honest food, which is all about real flavours and genuine quality, delivered artistically with passion, and served in a beautiful Victorian building that we’ve restored with love and turned into a place where people want to be. As a diner once put it, “Do you know what Paul, this is like coming to a spa where the treatment is food and drink.” I think this sums up The Art School perfectly.

WHAT STYLE OF FOOD DO DINERS ENJOY AT THE ART SCHOOL, AND WHAT SETS THE RESTAURANT APART IN THE CITY? We serve modern European cuisine at The Art School.

Although I’m a European-trained Brit, my cooking style is influenced by the Middle East, the Far East and North America. I’m passionate about finding the best ingredients, treating them sympathetically and not covering them so you don’t know what you’re eating. So, if the dish is halibut I want you to taste the halibut, and whilst other elements may be served alongside the fish, the halibut should be the star of the show.

IS THERE SUCH A THING AS BRITISH CUISINE? Absolutely! Whilst I think it’s accepted that the U.K. was 20 or 30 years behind from a culinary perspective, there’s been a meteoric desire for growth and knowledge in the last couple of decades, with British chefs making great use of the outstanding British produce from our fields and around our shorelines to produce quintessentially British dishes. Galloway Beef & Oyster Pie is an utterly British dish, and comes from a time when the people of Liverpool didn’t have enough money to buy a lot of beef to put in their pie or stew to feed the family for the week, so they’d go down

to the beach and forage for oysters to add more protein to the meal. Now of course oysters are more expensive, so this dish has become something of a delicacy.

NAME ONE DISH WHICH, FOR YOU, EPITOMISES THE CITY OF LIVERPOOL? Liverpool Bay Sea Bass is synonymous with the city. We’re fortunate enough to get it twice a year - during the Spring and Autumn. In Spring I love to serve it with local asparagus – Formby and the Wirral produce world-class asparagus. In Autumn I serve the fish with Southport potted shrimps and local potatoes.

THE CELEBRITY CHEF HAS BECOME SOMETHING OF A TREND IN THE GASTRONOMIC WORLD OF TODAY. DO YOU THINK IT HAS IT GONE TOO FAR? I’m delighted that the industry is in the spotlight and has been glamorised, since it absolutely needed to happen to help shake off the Victorian attitude towards chefs and waiters. On the whole I think that the

emergence of the celebrity chef has been good for the industry, since people want to know the provenance of their food, how dishes are cooked and how, for instance, the rearing of an animal has influenced the flavours.

What is regrettable is that it hasn’t yet happened for the front of house team. To be a great sommelier, maître d’ or chef de rang takes an incredible amount of dedication, learning and understanding of human beings, and all are credible careers, rather than something one does when there is nothing else.

LAST YEAR YOU APPEARED ON TV IN THE GREAT BRITISH MENU. WHAT, FOR YOU, ARE THE DOWNSIDES TO THE MEDIA FRENZY SURROUNDING CHEFS AND TELEVISED COOKING COMPETITIONS? One could argue that some of it is a little contrived, and is about the personalities involved rather than the food itself.

But then you have to remember it’s entertainment at the end of the day.

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I enjoyed every minute of the Great British Menu, especially the competitive side of it. I learned a lot about myself as well as the other chefs, and it was fantastic to get ten out of ten from a chef with two Michelin stars!

WHAT WERE THE UPSIDES TO APPEARING ON TELEVISED COOKING SHOWS? Both Saturday Morning Kitchen and Great British Menu – the TV shows I’ve appeared on – have incredible followings, and almost caused the restaurant’s and my own Twitter accounts to meltdown. We received emails from all over the world, and bookings increased from people wanting to taste our food. Even now people stop me in the street wanting to chat, thinking they know me, which on the whole is really nice.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE AN EMERGING CHEF TODAY? If you’re someone who is fascinated with food and by how

things are put together, and you have an artistic touch and like looking after people, then you have the most amazing career in front of you and can literally have the world at your feet. Once you’ve got some qualifications and experience behind you, you can roll up your knife pack and get a job literally anywhere in the world. But you need to be dedicated, committed, passionate and hard-working. If you want to know what time you finish work you’re in the wrong job!

YOU HAVE SPENT MANY YEARS GIVING YOUNG PEOPLE THEIR FIRST FOOTHOLD ON THE CATERING CAREER LADDER AND ARE A CHAMPION OF THE

APPRENTICESHIP SCHEME. PLEASE TELL US MORE. We all need a mentor - a mother, brother, agony aunt or bank manager. I remember two or three people who mentored me in different kitchens throughout my career. I know how hard it can be and I’m a great believer in giving people chances, so it’s great if I can make a difference in some small way. As employers, I think it’s our responsibility to give youngsters an opportunity.

At The Art School we take in youngsters when they’re very green. When we first opened the restaurant, some of the individuals we recruited were classed as NEAT (Not in Education or Training), on a mayoral youth contract, and

hadn’t laid a table or picked up a knife before. Obviously you lose some along the way, but one’s now a chef de partie and another is front of house. These are two of the restaurant’s most valuable staff, they’re intensely proud to be doing what they’re doing, and the loyalty they show rubs off on other members of the team. The fact they have a scouse accent also really resonates with guests, creating a dual sense of pride.

WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR BIGGEST CHALLENGES AT THE ART SCHOOL? It was a challenge to secure the right deals for the building

and its refurbishment and get it kitted out. Our Grade 2 listed building was basically derelict, is located in the Georgian conservation quarter of Liverpool, and is surrounded by some of the city’s most beautiful buildings.

It was tough making the heritage people and planners understand that we wanted to convert the building sympathetically, rather than turn it into a soulless dining room, and this process came with a lot of hidden costs.

Thankfully we managed to find a way, and develop a financial model that worked whilst retaining the integrity of what we were trying to achieve.

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in a very difficult place at the moment, with the number of establishments increasing while the number of people coming in is declining. It’s a perfect storm, and why we took the decision to grow our own staff.

PLEASE TELL US ABOUT ONE CULINARY PROJECT YOU ARE HUGELY PASSIONATE ABOUT? I was honoured, a few years ago, to be invited by my industry peers to become a member of the Royal Academy of Culinary Arts. This organisation is so passionate about flying the flag for classic British cuisine, great produce, education for young people and giving back to the industry, that when I saw the level of commitment of my fellow academicians it was impossible not to be inspired myself.

This drove me to get the Royal Academy apprenticeship programme to Liverpool, the first in the north of England.

It’s not without its challenges and it’s a slow burn, but we’re working hard to prove that Liverpool can produce fantastic cooks.

IN 2017 THE ART SCHOOL WON A TASTE OF ENGLAND NATIONAL AWARD, AT THE 28TH VISITENGLAND AWARDS FOR EXCELLENCE. HOW DID THIS MAKE YOU FEEL? I was absolutely elated when it was announced, and it was a great moment, not just for The Art School but for Liverpool. It’s given the team a real boost - to get national recognition has given them the belief that we can do great things in Liverpool, which is great for their confidence. Also, as a result of the award, I was invited to sit on the Tourism Industry Council, which gives me an opportunity to talk to ministers and civil servants about the industry and help shape the future.

WHAT DO YOU LIKE TO COOK AT HOME? Something very simple or something I don’t cook day-to-day, such as roast chicken with lemon, rosemary and garlic - quite French flavours. The sauce is key. My family can smell the bird roasting in the oven, which makes them quite happy all day since they know what they’ll be eating!

“I’m passionate about finding the best ingredients, treating them sympathetically and not covering them so you don’t know what you’re eating”

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DO YOU HAVE A FAVOURITE COMFORT FOOD THAT YOU PREPARE FOR YOURSELF? A typical chef’s sandwich. The most important first step is to get an Indian Pale Ale out of the fridge and have a sip.

Then onto the sandwich, which is basically really good ham, Leerdammer cheese, mustard and mayo. Sometimes I’ll make it a triple decker with pastrami.

named 26th best restaurant in the world last year (www.thecloveclub.com).

I arguably draw the most influence from the Basque Country of Spain, San Sebastián and Bilbao, and my two favourite chefs, Martín Berasategui and Eneko Atxa. I’ve been lucky enough to eat in their establishments on several occasions, and every time I come away with even more inspiration.

WHERE DO YOU LIKE TO EAT OUT? Locally I really like The Wheatsheaf Inn in Raby, which is Britain’s third oldest pub, housed in thatched cottage dating back to the 1600s, serves great game and specialises in cask ale (www.wheatsheaf-cowshed.co.uk).

When I’m in London I like to check out the Michelin-starred establishments, and I recently enjoyed an excellent meal at Scottish-born Isaac McHale’s Clove Club, which was

IF YOU WERE TO WRITE AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO LIVERPOOL, WHAT WOULD YOU INCLUDE? You must see the exhibition of China’s Terracotta Army at Liverpool’s World Museum. It’s the first time in more than 30 years that the warriors are being showcased in a museum outside London, and a huge coup for Liverpool (www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/wml). A visit to Liverpool Philharmonic hall is an absolute must – it’s a stunning Art

218 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2018

Deco building, and you should definitely try to catch a concert by the city’s superb orchestra (www.liverpoolphil.com). I think Hope Street Hotel is still the best boutique property in the city (www.hopestreethotel.co.uk). I’d recommend a trip to bustling Bold Street to see the range of restaurants and visit Matta’s International Foods – the centre of the universe for any foodie (www.mattas.co.uk). Lastly, be sure to take a ferry trip on the Mersey, not only to see Liverpool from the water, but also experience the delights of the Wirral (www.merseyferries.co.uk).

WHERE IN THE WORLD DO YOU MOST LIKE TO UNWIND AND RELAX? The whole island of Ibiza is astonishing. I’m at my most relaxed on the white isle, in Café Del Mar, with a fishbowl of gin and tonic watching the sunset, listening to chill-out music.

IF YOU COULD COOK FOR ONE NOTABLE PERSON IN THE WORLD, WHO WOULD IT BE? I’ve been lucky enough to cook for the Queen otherwise she would be my first choice. Right now it would be Albert and Michel Roux – their contribution to our food culture is overwhelming. They inspired me, and so to cook for them would be amazing.

WHAT’S NEW FOR PAUL ASKEW? I just launched my debut cookbook, Onwards and Upwards, and we recently opened the Art School Cellars – a champagne bar version of the restaurant – not to mention our recently unveiled private dining room. So, all of The Art School’s major expansion plans are complete, for now! www.theartschoolrestaurant.co.u

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SPRING/SUMMER 8 FASHION ROUND-UP Spring/summer 2018’s fashion trends are nothing if not bright, bold and rather beautiful, not to mention as diverse as ever, featuring everything from 1950s pastels and colourful stripes, to totally tropical prints and uber-cool sportswear hailing from La-La Land. Here, international fashion buyer ADRIAN GIBSON rounds up the hottest items to adorn guys and gals this summer, whether strutting along the Strand in London, or striking a pose on La Croisette in the sun-drenched South of France

220 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2018

GLOBETROTTER

Founded in Rome in 1925, Fendi is one of the most iconic fashion brands of our time.

Crafted in Italy from lightweight quick-drying fabric and cut in a straight-leg shape that sits comfortably on the hips, these Fendi ‘Bag Bugs’ swim shorts feature mischievous eyes, which will almost certainly attract playful attention at this summer’s pool parties.

GBP 175 WWW.MATCHESFASHION.COM

AMI SATIN HAWAII SHIRT

Parisian label AMI continues to go from strength to strength with Alexandre Mattiussi at the helm, who previously worked for Dior, Givenchy and Marc Jacobs. Combining two of this summer’s trends for camp collar shirts and bright tropical prints, this tribute to Hawaii is cut in a boxy, vintage-inspired fit, and will look as good paired with jeans in London as it will with shorts on La Croisette in Cannes.

GBP 175 WWW.MRPORTER.COM 222 The Cultured Traveller Mar-May 2018

FENDI BAG BUGS SWIM SHORTS

PALM ANGELS TRACK PANTS

Canadian fashion designer twins Dean and Dan Caten, founders and owners of Dsquared², have always loved to play with themes of luxury and celebrity in their collections, and this beach towel, sporting their ‘24-7 Star’ logo, is no exception.

Fashioned in black cotton-terry, that is both quick drying and exceptionally plush, it will surely make you look like a VIP on the beach.

GBP 150 WWW.DSQUARED2.COM

Preppy tailoring meets skater influences inspired by designer Francesco Ragazzi’s relaxed yet distinctive style, are the hallmark of LA-based label Palm Angels. Imbued with a sense of urban elegance and nostalgia, and instantly recognisable thanks to the signature gothic text logo, these supremely casual uber-cool retro track pants can be worn to the gym or a night out on the town.

GBP 259

With both new management and design teams at the house of Versace, as well as a scandalous American Crime Story TV series about the assassination of its founder, there is renewed vigour in the Italian luxury fashion company which was established nearly forty years ago. Versace’s illustrious archive clearly provides the inspiration for this embroidered logo t-shirt, which elegantly harks back to Gianni's day.

GBP 295

WWW.ENDCLOTHING.COM

WWW.HARVEYNICHOLS.COM

DSQUARED² BEACH TOWEL

VERSACE VINTAGE T-SHIRT

The ‘ugly rubber poolside shoe’ was one of the surprise trends of last year, a style of footwear that sports giant Adidas had been producing since 1972. As the trend continues, it pays to go with a big name designer to stand out from the crowd, and these Givenchy logo pool sliders will certainly get you noticed.

GBP 285 WWW.BROWNSFASHION.COM

GIVENCHY LOGO FLIP FLOPS

Belgian fashion designer Dries Van Noten is known for his embellished and detailed pieces, so when he produces less elaborate clothing the results are usually bang on trend. This sleeveless ribbed knitted top, with contrasting striped trim reminiscent of a cricket jumper, is one way of keeping cool this summer whilst also following the current trend for cropped tops.

GBP 170

Beginning almost by accident, this eponymous label was launched in 1998 when Eugeina Kim hastily created a feathered cloche to hide a disastrous haircut, catching the attention of a large number of local boutiques in New York.

This ‘Emmanuelle’ sun hat is crafted from straw, trimmed with a black grosgrain band and finished with the word ‘undercover’ playfully embroidered on the brim.

USD 465

WWW.SELFRIDGES.COM

WWW.EUGENIAKIM.COM

DRIES VAN NOTEN TOP

GUCCI CHARM BRACELET

Under the direction of creative tour de force Alessandro Michele, Gucci's current eclectic and embellished outlook is helping to reinvigorate the iconic Italian fashion house's previously troubled fortunes. The perfect adornment for your wrist whilst sipping fruity cocktails, this charm bracelet embodies retro chic and Italian style in one cute piece of jewellery.

EUR 850 WWW.GUCCI.COM

EUGEINA KIM SUNHAT

Stockholm-based sunglasses manufacturer Monokel prides itself on its simple designs, stylish looks and sustainable frames, the main component of which is a premium plant-based acetate. Pretty in pink, these vintage-inspired Cleo shades, complete with Carl Zeiss lenses, have been re-coloured for this season to add a feminine touch to your summer ensembles.

EUR 135 WWW.MONOKEL-EYEWEAR.COM

DORA TEYMUR LOAFERS

Turkish-born shoe designer Dora Teymur lives and works in Hampstead, North London, producing handcrafted leather footwear. Whilst his designs certainly take influence from the past, all are updated making them modern day classics. Made for those effortless, summer strolls, these backless, block-toed, white patent leather slip-on loafers feature large metallic buckles and have seventies-style written all over them.

GBP 345

MONOKEL CLEO SUNGLASSES

MIU MIU BEACH BAG

The perfect beach bag for this summer comes courtesy of Prada's little sister, Miu Miu. Fashioned in Italy from woven straw, finished with eye-catching striped canvas handles and branded with the Miu Miu logo, there’s plenty of room inside this tote to carry everything you need for a long and lazy day at the beach.

GBP 685 WWW.MYTHERESA.COM

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ART SCHOOL www.theartschoolrestaurant.co.uk

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL TUNIS www.fourseasons.com/tunis

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FUNDACIÓN CASA DE LOS TRES MUNDOS www.facebook.com/casatresmundos

B BY ELEFTERIADES www.bbbeirut.com BANANA ISLAND RESORT DOHA BY ANANTARA https://doha.anantara.com

H

BISHA www.bishahoteltoronto.com

60 HOPE STREET www.60hopestreet.com

BOCADILLOS www.bocadillosgranada.com

HARRY SASSON, BOGOTA www.harrysasson.com

BRUTO http://bruto.restaurant

HIMALAYAN YOGA ACADEMY www.yogaacademy.in/programs

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HOPE STREET HOTEL www.hopestreethotel.co.uk

CAFÉ LAS FLORES www.cafelasflores.com/our-stores CASTANYOLES

HOTEL PLAZA COLÓN www.hotelplazacolon.com HYATT REGENCY AMSTERDAM https://amsterdam.regency.hyatt.com

www.fourseasons.com/bogotacm/dining/restaurants/castanyoles/ CHOCOMUSEO www.chocomuseo.com/granada CIUDAD LOUNGE www.ciudadlounge.com CONRAD CARTAGENA https://cartagena.conradhotels.com

D DONOSTIA http://elorigendelacomida.co/restaurante-bogota-donostia/ DOUBLETREE BY HILTON LIVERPOOL HOTEL & SPA www.doubletree3.hilton.com

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ISLETA EL ESPINO www.isletaelespino.com

J JICARO LODGE www.jicarolodge.com

K KTIMA GEROVASSILIOU WINERY www.gerovassiliou.gr/en

DOWNTOWN CAMPER www.scandichotels.com

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E

LEO www.restauranteleo.com

EL BANDIDO http://www.elbandidobistro.com/en EL TERCER OJO www.eltercerojonicargua.com

LIVERPOOL CATHEDRAL www.liverpoolcathedral.org.uk LIVERPOOL GIN www.liverpoolgin.com

ENCUENTROS www.encuentrosclub.com

LIVERPOOL METROPOLITAN CATHEDRAL www.liverpoolmetrocathedral.org.uk

ESPRESSONISTA www.facebook.com/pg/espressonistacoffee

LIVERPOOL PHILHARMONIC www.liverpoolphil.com

ETSU www.etsu-restaurant.co.uk

LOCAL BY RAUSCH, BOGOTA http://hermanosrausch.com/local.html

LONDON CARRIAGE WORKS www.thelondoncarriageworks.co.uk

ST JOHNS BEACON www.stjohnsbeacon.co.uk

LOS PATIOS www.lospatiosgranada.com

STANLEY'S BAR AND GRILL www.titanichotelliverpool.com/dining/stanleys-cafe

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ST. GEORGE'S QUARTER www.stgeorgesquarter.org

MA BOYLE’S www.maboylesliverpool.com

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MALMAISON www.malmaison.com

TATE LIVERPOOL www.tate.org.uk/visit/tate-liverpool

MANSION DE CHOCOLAT www.facebook.com/pg/mansiondechocolate

TERRANEA RESORT www.terranea.com

MATTA’S INTERNATIONAL FOODS www.mattas.co.uk

THE ART SCHOOL www.theartschoolrestaurant.co.uk

MCHALE’S CLOVE CLUB www.thecloveclub.com

THE BEATLES STORY www.beatlesstory.com

MESA FRANCA www.facebook.com/mesafrancabogota/

THE DIXON www.thedixon.co.uk

MOMBACHO CIGAR COMPANY www.mombachocigars.com

THE GARDEN CAFÉ www.gardencafegranada.com

MONTAGE LOS CABOS www.montagehotels.com/loscabos

THE PHILHARMONIC DINING ROOMS www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk/restaurants/northwest/thep

N NATIONAL MUSEUMS LIVERPOOL www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk

THE ALCHEMIST http://thealchemist.uk.com

hilharmonicdiningroomsliverpool/findus THE ST. REGIS DOHA, QATAR www.stregisdoha.com THE WHEATSHEAF INN www.wheatsheaf-cowshed.co.uk

NEIGHBOURHOOD www.neighbourhoodrestaurant.co.uk

P PANORAMIC 34 www.panoramic34.com

R RAE’S ON WATEGOS BEACH www.raes.com.au

TÍO ANTONIO HAMACA www.tioantonio.org TITANIC HOTEL www.titanichotelliverpool.com TREEHOTEL www.treehotel.se/en TRIBAL www.tribal-hotel.com

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RESTAURANTE EL ZAGUÁN www.facebook.com/elzaguannic

VILLA MAHABHIROM www.villamahabhirom.com

ROOTS & SOUL www.rootsandsoul.co

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WEST HOTEL https://curiocollection3.hilton.com

SHANTALL LACAYO www.shantalllacayo.com SHIVERPOOL www.shiverpool.co.uk SOFITEL TAMUDA BAY BEACH AND SPA www.sofitel.com SOY NICA www.soynica.dk

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