The Cultured Traveller, December-January 2015-16 Issue 8

ART AROUND EVERY CORNER JUST STEPS FROM THE ATLANTIC, W SOUTH BEACH offers a cutting-edge oasis in the heart of South Beach, where the pulsating worlds of music, fashion and design meet contemporary luxury.

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TAKING LUXURY TO NEW HEIGHTS Perched on a plateau two thousand metres above sea level facing the plunging gorges and dramatic rock formations of Oman’s Green Mountain, Alila Jabal Akhdar has been designed to sit in perfect harmony with its breathtaking location. This unique destination is a sanctuary dedicated to the peace and splendour of the mountain and the serenity it has to offer.

As temperatures drop the summer haze clears and immaculate blue sky days are followed by crystal clear nights awash with the brightest stars. Take advantage of the perfect winter climate and make a luxuriously spacious suite your home from which to explore the beautiful and fascinating interior regions of the Sultanate.

Or simply unwind in the elegant haven of Spa Alila and indulge in a culinary experience which embraces the best of Omani and international cuisine.

For reservations email: jabalakhdar@alilahotels.com Like us on

www.facebook.com/alilajabalakhdar

w w w. al i l ahotel s . c o m

CONTENTS

HIGHLIGHTS

35 BEAUTIFUL VIENNA

Vienna is a city of grand palaces, world-class art museums and elegant coffee houses. Alex Benasuli visited the capital of Austria for a long weekend, and discovered that the former epicentre of the Austro-Hungarian Empire still exudes stateliness, importance and respectability.

44 SUITE HONG KONG

Joe Mortimer road tested an Upper Suite on the 44th floor of swanky Hong Kong boutique hotel, The Upper House, which counts celebrities, business tycoons and the odd royal among its loyal guests.

60 THE RETURN OF SANUR

Lucy Taylor discovered that the grande dame of Bali’s tourism scene is making a five-star comeback.

65

DOHA’S SPRAWLING METROPOLIS

Doha is one of the fastest growing cities on the planet and top of the list when it comes to wealth per capita. Gordon Hickey gives us the lowdown.

80 NANA MOUSKOURI

Kalia Michaelides interviewed world-famous Greek singer, UNICEF Goodwill Ambassador and former member of the European Parliament, Nana Mouskouri, who at 81 is still touring and performing.

84 WELSH FASHION WONDER

Designer to the stars and Welsh success story, Julien Macdonald OBE, talks exclusively to The Cultured Traveller about his path to international fashion greatness, his favourite places to holiday and what he simply cannot travel without.

December 2015/January 2016 The Cultured Traveller 07

Editor’s Letter

DECEMBER 2015/JANUARY 2016

It's hard not to be moved to cancel your travel plans by the recent downing of a Russian holiday charter flight, and the horrific bombings in two of the world's most cosmopolitan capital cities, Beirut and Paris.

The possibility that a bomb was put on Metrojet Flight 9268 at Sharm el-Sheikh on 31st October 2015, led several countries to immediately suspend flights to that airport. Many airlines, including British Airways, have since cancelled flights to the Egyptian resort until the new year, instantly decimating the tourist industry upon which the Egyptian people are so heavily reliant. With a death toll of 224 people, and almost all of them tourists, the destruction of flight 9268 immediately impacted the travel industry and people around the world, especially those about to set off on vacation who were shocked to their cores. Even some of my well-travelled, self-confident friends cancelled plans to visit European cities before Christmas, preferring instead to stay put and shop at home.

On 12th November 2015, two suicide bombers detonated explosives in Bourj el-Barajneh, a southern suburb of Beirut, killing more than 40 people. The bombings were the worst terrorist attack in Beirut since the end of the Lebanese Civil War. On the night of 13th November 2015, a series of coordinated terrorist attacks occurred in Paris and its northern suburb, Saint-Denis, killing 130 people, including 89 at the Bataclan Theatre, where the terrorists took hostages before engaging in a stand-off with police. 400 people were injured in addition to the dead.

A week after the Paris attacks, the Belgian capital of Brussels was locked down for the weekend after reports emerged that the city was facing the threat of a bomb and gun attack, similar to that seen on the streets of the French capital. With so much death and destruction in the world’s cities and the skies above our most popular tourist resorts, you would be forgiven for staying indoors, battening down the hatches, and not going anywhere for the next few months. But this would be giving in to the perpetrators of this heinous crimes and rewarding them for their shocking actions. I don’t believe that we should all stay at home and stop travelling. Be extra vigilant, yes. Be sure to heed the warnings of your government about travelling to unsafe territories. And as you are about to board a plane or take a train during one of the year's most chaotic periods to get anywhere, remember that statistics tell us that flying is still one of the safest forms of travel, and you’re more likely to be mown down by a reindeer that die in the sky. Seasons greetings to all our readers and our thoughts are with the family and friends of all those who perished in the recent attacks.

Nicholas Chrisostomou

10 The Cultured Traveller December 2015/January 2016

Vienna

Sanur

Doha

Contributors Alex Benasuli

Julien James Davis

Resides: London Wrote: City Focus & Taste&Sip

Resides: London Wrote: Taste & Sip

Alex has been traveling the world his whole life. Growing up in New York City, he would accompany his family every summer on visits to relatives in Spain, France and Germany. A successful two-decade career in finance often took him to Brazil, Mexico, Turkey, Russia, India, Indonesia and all over the Far East.

Today, as an avid yoga practitioner and part-time teacher, Alex has a keen appreciation for combining luxury highbrow urban travels with off the beaten track alternative destinations and experiences.

Julien James Davis has been a freelance travel writer for the past five years contributing to various publications including the Daily Mail & Tempus Magazine specialising in high end, luxury brands.

His path to journalism has been an unorthodox one, having spent fifteen years travelling the globe as a musician, composer & DJ across five of the six continents, which inadvertently fuelled his hunger for exploring diverse societies and cultures along the way. Julien lives in South London and considers South America to be his Everest…

Lucy Taylor

Joe Mortimer

Resides: Bristol Wrote: Spotlight

Resides: Bristol Wrote: Suite Envy

Lucy is an award-winning journalist with more than a decade’s experience in print and broadcast media. She spent 7 years in the UAE, most recently working for Arabian Radio Network as News Editor and Presenter/Producer of The Travel Show, and as a contributing reporter on City7 TV’s UAE Weekly programme.

Lucy left Dubai in December 2014 and has spent most of 2015 on the road, exploring new countries and cultures, freelancing for various publications, and creating videos and podcasts for her website, www.LucyTaylorTravels.com.

Lucy has travelled to and reported from more than 50 countries.

Joe Mortimer is a freelance travel writer.

After spending four and a half years writing about luxury travel and editing stories written by others, Joe quit his comfortable job in Dubai, sold his worldly belongings and set off on a journey around South and Central America. Former senior editor of Destinations of the World News and contributor to numerous magazines, Joe founded the travel blog www.somewhereinthebetween.org dedicated to a life on the road, which chronicles his experiences as a full-time nomad and explores the challenges and opportunities of life between one place and the next.

Gordon Hickey

Farheen Allsopp

Resides: Dublin Wrote: Traveller Lowdown

Resides: Doha Wrote: Stylish Globetrotter

Dublin native Gordon may have spent the past decade working as a TV producer, but has spent twenty years in front of the camera exploring the world. Fascinated with maps and geography as a child, he went on his first solo trip to Italy at the tender age of 14 and hasn’t looked back since.

Eating his way around the globe and sampling local street cuisine sees him at his happiest. When he’s not globetrotting, you’ll probably find Gordon busting his moves at one of Ireland’s music festivals.

Farheen is a model turned entrepreneur from London, currently based in Qatar. After the runways of India, Paris, Milan, London and New York she now advises international fashion brands on their Middle East strategy specialising in retail, PR and events. A globetrotter herself, Farheen is an avid online shopper and treasure hunter. She loves discovering emerging brands and is committed to bringing the far-fetched to your attention. Farheen loves adventure and is a cat-loving, free fall parachutist, mother of two boys.

EDITOR Nicholas Chrisostomou CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Kalia Michaelides FEATURES EDITOR Claudia Avila-Batchelor GRAPHIC DESIGNER Eleana Nicolaou WEB DEVELOPERS Oleg Gnatyk & Dmytriy Suslov

SUBSCRIPTIONS subscribe@TheCulturedTraveller.com TCT ON THE WEB www.TheCulturedTraveller.com TCT ON FACEBOOK www.facebook.com/TheCulturedTraveller AD DEPARTMENT ads@theculturedtraveller.com EDITORIAL TEAM words@theculturedtraveller.com

FÊTE DES LUMIÈRES FRANCE

BUDAPEST CHRISTMAS MARKETS HUNGARY

Situated on the Danube River - with the Buda Hills to the west and the Great Plain to the east - Budapest remains a firm favourite with European cultured travellers, not least due to the stunning Palace complex, world-class classical music scene, secret caves snaking beneath the city, beautiful buildings spanning the banks of the river that twinkle as dusk sets upon the city, and, when the festive season approaches, the colourful Christmas markets. Hungary’s capital has been nicknamed the “Paris of the East” for its scenic setting and magnificent architecture, and at no time of the year does the city look more majestic and regal as it does in December, when the streets and squares are laden with hundreds of booths selling traditional Hungarian handicrafts, leather products, and Christmas ornaments, and bands play on stages entertaining market goers clutching mugs of mulled wine. Whilst two of the best markets are the Budapest Christmas Fair and the Budapest Basilica Christmas Market, don't miss world famous Hungarian confectioner, Café Gerbeaud (www.gerbeaud.hu) whose windows serve as the city's most famous advent calendar through 'til Christmas Day. December 2015 www.budapestchristmas.com

ELECTRIC DAISY CARNIVAL BRAZIL

A dusk till dawn, rain or shine, exhilarating Sao Paulo event with a twist, for dance and music worshipers. Held in Autódromo de Interlagos, this electronic dance music festival features genres including EDM, house, drum n bass, techno, dance-punk, hardstyle and dubstep, and

Each year, 3 to 4 million people flock to Lyon to be bedazzled by the phantasmagoric display of street and architectural illuminations that transform the city to a sparkling wonderland. Fête des Lumières, or the Festival of Lights, sprang from an age-old tradition dated back to 1643 to today’s unique urban event of extravagant and professionally run light performances. The four-night programme delivers a different theme each night, complete with video, music and sound effects to compliment the dynamic imagery seen throughout the city, its rivers and its parks. Designers hailing from all corners of the planet participate with imaginative installations, whilst all Lyonnais get involved in their own way by burning candles on their windowsills and balconies, further enhancing the glittering spectacle.

5 - 8 December 2015 www.fetedeslumieres.lyon.fr

MEVLÂNA FESTIVAL is packed with not only frenetic music but arty installations, technology, nature and much more. An adult playground is dotted with fairground ride favorites, from contraptions that flash, spin and whirl to a traditional Ferris wheel. Exaggerated costumes designed especially for EDC, dancing troupes, stilt walkers, aerialists, circus performers and other imaginative characters complete the giant funky extravaganza. This year's line-up includes Tiësto, Steve Aoki and top Brazilian producer duo, Tropkillaz, comprising DJ Zegon and Laudz.

4 - 5 December 2015 www.electricdaisycarnival.com

TURKEY

Dubbed the world's largest event deThis authentic sema (ceremony) attracts more than 100,000 visitors to the Anatolian city of Konya for the Whirling Dervishes Festival, which commemorates the death of 13th century Sufi poet, Mevlâna Celaleddin-i Rumi, one of the world’s great mystic philosophers. His work in poetry and religious writings are among the most cherished in Islam and beyond. Known as Rumi in the west, he is a best-selling poet in the US, with avid fans that include Madonna.

The United Nations declared 2007 The Year of Rumi and world-wide celebrations were held in his honour.

December 2015/January 2016 The Cultured Traveller 13

Throughout the festival, whirling dervishes, dressed in their white robes with voluminous skirts, dance as if they are in trance, under the observance of a seyh (master). Their performances can best be described as utterly mesmerizing and mystifying. The highlight of the festival is on the last night, when the entranced dervishes spin to commemorate Mevlâna’s wedding night. Konya - Turkey's seventh largest city - is an hour’s flight from Istanbul.

10 - 17 December 2015

HOGMANY

SCOTLAND

BURNING THE CLOCKS UK

A Brighton tradition for almost two decades, Burning the Clocks is a unique community event that brings together the whole seaside city to mark the shortest day, the Winter Solstice.

Created in 1994 by the award-winning community arts charity, Same Sky, as a way to celebrate the holiday spirit regardless of people's religious beliefs, in recent years it has adopted a totally different purpose as a peaceful yet dramatic rebellion against the modern day excess of Christmastime commercialism. Local people make their own beautiful paper and willow star lanterns, and after a procession through the city, they pass them into a blazing bonfire on Brighton beach, as a token of the year’s end. A GBP22 package contains all the materials needed to make two star lanterns, and includes four wrist bands allowing visitors to join the parade and gain entrance to a special viewing area on Madeira Drive to watch the grand finale fire show.

21 December 2015 www.facebook.com/burningtheclocks

JUNKANOO PARADE

12 14 The Cultured Traveller December 2015/January 2016

a new street party experience featuring additional entertainment, a new stage and increased arena space for crowds to ‘bring in the bells’. The Scottish sure know how to party!

29 - 31 December 2015 www.edinburghshogmanay.com

HARBIN ICE FESTIVAL CHINA

BAHAMAS

The high point of the season for all Bahamians, is when Nassau's main artery, Bay Street, is transformed into a sea of sight and sound that delights, amazes and entertains all who experience Junkanoo Parade. Tracing its roots to the music, dance and spectacle of West Africa, Junkanoo is one of the oldest surviving street festivals in the Caribbean, dating back to the 17th century. Legend has it that slaves of old decorated themselves using whatever scrap materials were available - the easiest to lay their hands on being paper and feathers - which were sewn onto their clothes, whilst flour paste was used to paint their faces. Nowadays Junkanoo is a wonderful celebration of life and freedom and the major cultural festival of the Bahamas. But you'll need stamina to be part of Junkanoo, because each year it is celebrated in the early hours of the morning on

Repeatedly name-checked as one of the top 100 things to do before you die, three days of spectacular events, big bands and electrified crowds from every corner of the globe come together in Edinburgh every year for the biggest New Year's Eve celebrations on the planet. See Shetland Vikings bearing fire lit torches, hear beautiful choral singing in St Giles' Cathedral, enjoy birling to traditional Scottish music in the Old Town, and watch top stars and incredible fireworks from Princes Street Gardens. Last year 150,000 revelers from over 70 countries joined hands for the world’s biggest rendition of Auld Lang Syne.

This year's packed programme includes

Boxing Day, 26 December, and the main event - the biggest parade - is on New Year’s Day! 26 December 2015 + 1 January 2016 www.bahamas.co.uk

With one of the most bitterly cold winters of all Chinese cities, Harbin is known as the Ice City for its well-known winter tourism and recreations, and its world famous ice and snow festival - the largest of its kind on the planet. It takes 15,000 ice sculptors, artisans and workers, working painstakingly for 16 days, cutting 120,000 cubic metres of ice blocks from Songhua River’s frozen surface, to create the breathtaking illuminated iced sculptures and statues, plus full size buildings and figures, dotted around the city. However, the main highlights are the two focal exhibition areas, namely Sun Island and Ice & Snow World. Ice slides and festival food and drinks can be found in abundance in several parks and major avenues in the city, as well as winter activities such as Yabuli Alpine Skiing, snowmobile driving, winter-swimming in the

Songhua River, and the traditional ice-lantern exhibition in Zhaolin Garden.

5 January - 25 February 2016 www.icefestivalharbin.com

PROTOTYPE USA

Since its inception 4 years ago, PROTOTYPE has established itself as an important presenter of innovative new operas, experimental theatre and musical works in New York. Since launching in 2013, PROTOYYPE has produced and presented 91 performances, shared the works of more than 275 local, national, and international artists, exposed visionary work to more that than 9,000 people, and filled 19 stages across multiple boroughs of New York City.

The much celebrated festival will return in 2016 with the world premiere of “Angel’s Bone” - an opera about angels and human trafficking, by Du Yun with a libretto by Royce Vavrek - and will also feature the New York premiere of David. T. Little’s opera “Dog Days”; the American premiere of “The Last Hotel,” an opera by DonnachaDennehy that was written and directed by Enda Walsh; and “The Good Swimmer,” a musical-theatre work set during the Vietnam War. 6 - 17 January 2016 www.prototypefestival.org

CARTAGENA INTERNATIONAL MUSIC FESTIVAL COLOMBIA

For eight days each January, the historic Colombian walled city of Cartagena, is completely filled with music during the Festival Internacional de Music. Under the artistic direction of Charles Wadsworth, renowned pianist and creator of chamber music events worldwide, festival concerts take place in historic venues throughout the city, including the Teatro Heredia and the beautiful chapels of the Hotels Santa Clara, Santa Teresa, Iglesia de Santo Toribio and the Plaza San Pedro Claver.

Cartagena opens some of its most charming colonial spaces - indoors and out - to the public for performances by classical musicians from around the world. For 2016 the festival program will be divided into three main matrices, with the audience hearing music composed in Europe, music from different eras made in the New World, and works composed in Europe with influences from

unpublished languages of the New World. As well as countless live performances, the festival runs master classes for young artists. This year's performers include the Orpheus Chamber Orchestra and the Youth Philharmonic Chamber Orchestra, a grouping of the Philharmonic Orchestra of Bogotá.

6 - 14 January 2016 www.cartagenamusicfestival.com

KEY WEST FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL USA

ATI-ATIHAN PHILIPPINES

Whilst Filipinos are known worldwide for their gracious hospitality, this feast festival held annually in January, in honor of the Santo Niño (Infant Jesus), allows us a glimpse of their wild, colourful and playful side, a facet of these devout and thoughtful people rarely seen.

Ati-Atihan is nine days of constant movement, drumming and feasting - a non-stop riot of exhibitionism, costume, music and dance. Soot-black painted faces, feather headdresses and animal bones create a show-stopping visual treat, and after days of relentless drumming and festivities it's nigh on impossible for even the most reluctant traveller not to get covered in soot and join the romping, all night closing masquerade ball.

17 - 26 January 2016 www.kaliboatiatihan.ph

For the foodies and wine lovers amongst you, this American festival is as good as it gets.

Recognised by the Travel Chanel as one of best Food & Wine Festivals in America, it attracts thousands of epicureans to delight on creative cuisine and a wide range of wines. A 5-day festival bursting with flavours, it hosts over 40 unique and diverse events including waterfront tastings, winemaker/chef collaborations, and local funky happenings that present an authentic taste of Key West, Florida.

Festival favourites include the Key West Kitchen Tour which takes you hopping to homes and restaurants of locals to sample a different dish and wine at each location, and The French Masquerade Party, a sophisticated dance event, where guests are encouraged to dress up in full Marie Antoinette style, don their best wigs, sip champagne and dance the night away.

27 - 31 January 2016 www.keywestfoodandwinefestival.com

Rest Your Head

Courchevel, Bath, Macao, Weligama, Valetta, Phuket, Jabal Akhdar Paro, Amsterdam, Bogotรก, London, Great Barrier Reef

14 16

COURCHEVEL SIX SENSES RESIDENCES COURCHEVEL Located in the heart of the world-famous ski resort, 100km from the airport of Chambéry and Lyon-Saint Exupéry and accessible via TGV and Eurostar (30-minute drive away in the town of Moutiers), the arrival of Six Senses Residences Courchevel this month marks the opening of the first residential spa development in Courchevel (formerly 1850). Courchevel is at one end of the world's largest lift-linked ski area - the Trois Vallées - which has 600km of pistes and over 170 lifts. Because of the north-facing aspect of many of Courchevel's local slopes, the snow here is usually some of the best in the area, with terrain to suit everyone from beginner to expert. Indeed, many visitors never feel the need to leave the Courchevel valley, despite having the rest of the Trois Vallées at the tips of their skis.

Six Senses Residences Courchevel features 53 beautifully appointed apartments, a Six Senses Spa, an exclusive private ski-in-ski-out concierge service, plus all of the usual upscale services that guests of Six Senses have come to expect. All apartment interiors have been designed by Alain Foeillet, blending contemporary styles with traditional mountain influences - including timber walls, robust beams and stone and clay flooring - that celebrate the alpine aesthetic, complemented by custom-made furniture and local art. For the ultimate ski residences, 10 spacious penthouses cover 100m2 offering panoramic mountain views, up to five exquisitely appointed bedrooms, specially configured wine cellars and triple aspect balconies overlooking the slopes.

Six Senses Spa Courchevel will surely be the perfect place to ease tired muscles after an exhilarating day on the slopes, offering signature massages, restorative therapies, facials and body treatments in five deluxe treatment rooms. An indoor swimming pool, saunas, steam room, relaxation lounge, gym, studio and wellness classes, manicure and pedicure stations, and a juice bar will complete the five-star ski & spa experience. www.sixsenses.com

THE ST. REGIS MACAO An hour-long ferry ride separates Hong Kong from Macao, China’s tropical destination on the country’s southeastern coast. It is a humid furnace from late April through early October, while temperatures can fall into the 50s in midwinter. To many who have visited, Macau is a frenetic, crazy and gambling-driven sensory overload, flooded with the familiar trappings of money and modernity, few if any of which are of interest, or visually attractive, to a cultured traveller. This former Portuguese colony continuously parades its wild side, not least in its growing number of nearly 40 massive casinos.

But the brashness eclipses a more serene, little known sophisticated side to the region that’s defined by lush landscapes, art galleries, avant-garde design shops and low-key bars. This is where the new St Regis Macao comes in, opening on 17 December 2015, to cater to a new generation of both leisure and corporate travelers seeking a different experience.

Located along the vibrant Cotai Strip which offers easy access to over 600 retail outlets (perfect if shopping’s your thing), hundreds of dining options and a diverse range of world-class entertainment, The St. Regis Macao is positioned to become a veritable haven from the madness outside and hence, in time, most likely the most coveted address in this mega-popular gaming destination.

Aspiring to set a new standard for luxury and bespoke service in Macau, The St. Regis Macao features 400 exquisitely styled and lavishly appointed guest rooms and suites (25% being suites), reflecting traditional Chinese and Portuguese elements, ranging from 53m² to 477m², providing discerning travelers with a luxurious respite from the hectic urban brew. The hotel’s strategic location and distinctive layout affords guests sweeping views of the Cotai Strip, with almost all rooms boasting commanding vistas of the bustling, brightly lit metropolis, as well as 55-inch LED TVs, Remède bathroom products and Simmons beds. The St. Regis Macao has four Presidential Suites. All rooms and suites benefit from the signature St. Regis Butler Service, a first for any hotel in Macao. This 24-hour service customises each guest’s stay to their specific needs, tastes and preferences, and when it comes to butlers, St. Regis really knows what it’s doing! www.stregis.com

18 22 The Cultured Traveller December 2015/January 2016

MACAO

LE MÉRIDIEN PARO, RIVERFRONT

PARO

Nestled in a beautiful valley and surrounded by the dramatic Eastern Himalayas, Paro is one of the most attractive cities in the Kingdom of Bhutan. Situated on the edge of the Chu River, and providing stunning views of Paro Valley, Le Méridien Paro, Riverfront offers panoramic views of the Eastern Himalayas and is an ideal gateway for discovering the region’s charms, unique cultural heritage, and spectacular scenery. The intimate hotel features 59 contemporary guestrooms and suites, all designed with a classic Bhutanese feel. Paro International Airport is little more than 3km from the hotel, and Bhutan’s capital, Thimphu, is less than an hour’s drive away.

Paro is home to numerous sacred fortresses and monasteries. Set on the edge of a steep cliff, the 17th century Paro Taktsang (Tiger’s Nest) is one of Bhutan’s most famous attractions and is just 30 minutes away by car. Kyichu Lhakhang is one of the nation’s oldest and most beautiful monasteries, dating back to the 7th century. Overlooking Paro Valley and filled with rich history, the large Buddhist monastery and fortress Rinpung Dzong is another top attraction. Housed in a former watchtower, the artefacts at the National Museum of Bhutan are equally stimulating. For open-air adventurers, Western Bhutan’s striking forests and the Himalayas can be appreciated on an exhilarating trek.

Bhutan’s unique archery matches are considered the kingdom’s national sport, and traditional Bhutanese musical performances are also well worth seeing. More ancient Bhutanese culture can be found during the popular annual Paro Tsechu festival held every March or April. During this colourful multiday event, locals can be seen dressed in native attire, visitors can spin a prayer wheel for wisdom and good karma, or one can take pleasure in watching unique, religious dance performances.

After a stimulating day of touring and sightseeing, reward yourself with a Bhutanese hot stone bath in the hotel’s signature Explore Spa, and feast on the region’s flavourful cuisine, which includes jasha maru made with minced chicken and tomatoes, ema datshi made with spicy cheese and chilli peppers, momos (dumplings), nutty flavoured red rice, and butter tea served with crunchy fried rice. www.lemeridien.com

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CAPE WELIGAMA

WELIGAMA

The charming island nation of Sri Lanka is a place of multiple experiences, sights, sounds, tastes and colours. No sooner than you think you've discovered the best food or the best place to rest your head, the inventive country-folk with their internationally-travelled influences conjure up yet better hotels and more creative restaurants. In Sri Lanka you can spend a day walking through spectacular hills, admiring tea plantations and quaint villages, then find yourself on a safari trip looking for leopards and elephants. You can white water raft in the rainforest, then check out for a few days on a picturesque beach, bask in glorious sunshine or take advantage of world-class surfing conditions. Sri Lanka is a year-round destination. Even in the rainy season, downpours are short and the skies clear quickly after the rain stops. From the bustling metropolis of Colombo to the lush green landscape of the hill country, you can be revelling in the authentic hustle and bustle of a thriving local city one minute, and be transported to the lap of luxury the next.

Situated on the south coast of the country and positioned on a headland with views out across the water and beaches in every direction, few places in Sri Lanka do luxury quite as spectacularly well as Cape Weligama. The resort is about 30 minutes drive from the UNESCO World Heritage site of Galle Fort, which is close enough for sightseeing but far enough away to feel like a sanctuary. Set out in the style of a village, much lauded Thai architect, Lek Bunnag, has designed the villas in a contemporary mod-Asian style which works beautifully. Every villa is attended by a butler and sits within a flower-scented garden, no more than a few steps from a cooling pool. And because a stay at Cape Weligama is all about unadulterated luxury, relaxation and comfort, the hotel is all-inclusive, so guests can freely order drinks and snacks without fearing the bill at the end of their stay. Even laundry is included.

For cultured travellers with a blow-out budget, the two-storey 307m² Cape Weligama Residence has two bedrooms that both boast sweeping Indian Ocean views, and a private infinity pool on the roof terrace. Even at USD1,500 per night (for the Cape Weligama Residence) during peak season, this is cheap by comparison to the Maldives, where you’d pay far more for even half the amount of luxury floor space. www.capeweligama.com

THE PHOENICIA, MALTA

VALLETTA

CampbellGray Hotels - famous for Carlisle Bay in Antigua, and Le Gray, arguably Beirut's top hotel and The Cultured Traveller's favoured abode in the Lebanese capital - has entered into a business partnership with the Audeh family, sole owners and developers of the new Le Gray Amman Hotel and Residences, to develop Le Gray Amman, The Phoenicia Malta, and The Machrie Hotel and Golf Links on the Hebridean island of Islay.

Built in 1939 under British rule, the Phoenicia was Malta’s first luxury hotel, giving it a wealth of history and a unique charm, standing proudly at City Gate just outside the main entrance to Valletta. Its imposing interior bears a gentle Art Deco influence, particularly in the main lounge bar, with many of the iconic hotel's 136 bedrooms and suites benefitting from truly majestic views of Marsamxett Harbour, Floriana parish church, the 7 acres of beautiful hotel gardens, the main entrance to Valletta (with its charming bus station which is not in fact particularly unsightly) and the city's ancient fortifications.

Since the Phoenicia’s architectural beauty is considered to be one of the sights of the island, the six-month EUR15 million revamp of this much-loved hospitality grande dame in the old-town heart of Malta, will be sympathetic to the hotel’s heritage.

The redesign scheme - which is already well underway - has been carefully considered by Peter Young Design and Fox Linton Associates, founded in the Seventies by British doyenne, Mary Fox Linton. Fox Linton Associates works across a broad spectrum of commissions, from high-end private homes to established hotel brands such as the Dorchester Collection and Raffles. Its trademark is originality, faultless detailing and intelligent design, which is evident in both Le Gray and Carlisle Bay, so expect the reimagined interior of the refurbished Phoenicia to be beautifully detailed yet comfortable and functional.

Charismatic hotelier, Gordon Campbell Gray, has said “I have always wanted to restore a grand hotel and opportunities such as this happen rarely. The philosophy behind the renovation of The Phoenicia is very much about restoring it to its original grandeur while at the same time making it feel like now and therefore more relevant to the current international traveller. What excites me most though is the chance to work with the super-professional staff at The Phoenicia who, over the years, have contributed to the success and popularity of the hotel.”

The revitalisation of the Phoenicia includes the complete refurbishment and upgrading of all bedrooms and bathrooms, the creation of new rooftop Sky Suites, the addition of a new outdoor infinity pool with sweeping views of the harbour, a complete re-landscaping of the stunning grounds and terraces, the painstaking restoration of the Phoenicia’s classic façade and the refurbishment of the Phoenicia Grand Ballroom. The Phoenicia Malta will reopen in April 2016. www.campbellgrayhotels.com

December 2015/January 2016 The Cultured Traveller 23

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TRISARA

PHUKET

Stepping into the Trisara is like gliding into your own private paradise. The resort’s name means “The Garden in the Third Heaven,” and the verdant rainforest that embraces the lux villas certainly affirms the Eden-esque moniker.

Secluded and romantic, the resort’s ergonomic design compliments the 48 secreted villas and 20 private residencies - all with private pools - that can also be hired along with their own staff and world-class chefs. A stunning boathouse, constructed in robust teak wood, presides over uncompromising views across the Andaman Sea, as do all of the villas and suites across the complex. The architecture has been thoughtfully designed to offer romantic getaways or for those seeking privacy. Kate Moss is rumoured to have a home here.

Now celebrating their decade, Trisara has built up a loyal clientele whose custom they keep by providing a range of generic and bespoke services that leave no attention to detail unchartered. One off culinary experiences, personalised health breaks, contemporary art evenings and more are some of the pursuits on offer for visitors. The cuisine is one of the highlights of the property, with several restaurants offering traditional Thai fare, international plates and one of the best wine collections in the country. Private dining in each of the residential decks is also de rigueur. A recent addition has been the Trisara Seafood Restaurant, supplying fresh Andaman and Mediterranean fish. On the private beach, a newly built bar offers both established and unique house cocktails, perfect companions for the uninterrupted sunsets.

Trisara is consistently lauded in high profile, glossy Asian media, and in the last year it has also reinvented itself as a premium destination for fitness and well-being. A range of sporting activities including a private golf course and yachting are also combined with personal training facilities, holistic treatments and an organic spa, mixing traditional Thai practices and Western therapies.

The flow and contemporary aesthetic of Trisara is what makes this a delightfully deluxe resort and a consistent winner of international travel awards. Given the fierce competition in Phuket, this untainted piece of paradise is a real gem to be revered. www.trisara.com

ANANTARA AL JABAL AL AKHDAR RESORT

JABAL AKHDAR

Thai-based hotel group, Anantara, is synonymous with connecting modern travellers to genuine places through personal experiences, and the luxury hospitality brand is edging closer to opening its first resort in the Sultanate of Oman. Billed by the international travel press as one of the most exciting hotels to open in 2016, Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort will be perched almost 3,000 metres above sea level, on the curving rim of a great canyon, in the rocky contours of the vast Saiq Plateau on Oman’s fabled Green Mountain, making it the highest five star resort in the Middle East and the second highest in the world. It’s also a location visited by Princess Diana and HRH Prince Charles in November 1986.

Having helicoptered in, most of his time was spent painting the magnificent scenery in watercolours, while Diana read her book.

The remote mountain setting is a manageable two-hour drive from Muscat International Airport, passing date plantations, wadis and historical forts. The resort will offer an exhilarating escape for culture and history enthusiasts, with the ancient city of Nizwa only a 30-minute drive away.

Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar will boast 82 luxurious rooms plus 33 high-end villas, each with their own private swimming pool and all furnished in rich and authentic traditional Omani style, state-of-the-art interactive IPTV’s - including video on demand and complimentary Wi-Fi throughout the resort – that will ensure guests have every convenience befitting of a luxury traveller whilst enjoying their mountain stay experience. The resort’s top accommodation will be its three-bedroom Royal Mountain Villa.

Guests will have six on-site dining options to choose from, including Al Qalaa Arabian grill which will be housed in a castle tower, inspired by the many ancient citadels dotted around Oman, and Bella Vista - adjacent to the resort’s infinity pool overlooking a vast mountain canyon - which will offer contemporary Italian cuisine. Additional resort facilities will include a deluxe Anantara Spa with five treatment rooms, two luxury couple suites with outdoor private relaxation areas, indoor swimming pool and a hammam. www.anantara.com

December 2015/January 2016 The Cultured Traveller 27

THE PIG

BATH

The Pig near Bath is the younger sibling of the Pig in New Forest, originally opened in 2011 as a country house with attention to culinary detail and combining a touch of luxury with homely charms. The initial flurry of awards and media accolades allowed the owners the freedom to expand to other parts of the quintessential English countryside.

The Pig near Bath was the third in the group, having been inaugurated in spring 2014. 2016 will see the launch of the fifth of their litter in Devon. The second and fourth Pigs are located in Hampshire and Dorset respectively. Shabby chic comfort in the heart of the British countryside has been the recipe for success in this boutique group of highbrow country hotels. Renovated stately homes combine aesthetically with organic, seasonal local produce; renowned chef Mark Hix is a fan of their kitchens.

A creation of Robin Hutson, widely known for his development of the Hotel du Vin group, the porcine chain has garnered particular love from the music industry and boho guests who frequent their Somerset branch. Glastonbury festival artists and revelers, who have high-rider expectations, flock to the grade two listed building to be spoilt and recharge their batteries, in between catching live acts or going on countryside yomps. Hutson’s previous experience of running Babington House clearly shines through: the smallest of details are provided for demanding visitors, including colourful Hunter Wellingtons and a chauffer service to and from local events.

Large fires, chunky distressed wood, and exposed brickwork detail make the Pig a cosy yet plush hotel option. Coupled with exceptional food on offer and a stunning location, this is an idyllic country retreat and well deserving of the media support they have enjoyed. The organic credentials are further enhanced with an onsite allotment and livestock, reared to provide gastro feasts for the dining tables of guests.

Sagacious London townies and international visitors continue to flock to the 29-room hotel, comfortable in the knowledge that service and relaxation will be provided with minimal fuss. www.thepighotel.com

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W AMSTERDAM Located steps away from the Royal Palace and just behind Dam Square - Amsterdam’s bustling Times Square equivalent - the new W Amsterdam has, for the first time, shifted the focus of hotel guests and visitors from the city’s canals to the Dutch capital’s rooftops and skyline, with the opening of a design-led property - brimming with upbeat New York energy - crowned by a 360-degree rooftop bar and Amsterdam’s first rooftop pool, 22-metres long and heated in the winter months. It’s a wonder that no one in the water-obsessed capital had thought of a rooftop pool before - such is the passion of the Dutch people for all things aqua-orientated.

Located in the epicentre of Amsterdam’s vibrant social scene, the 238-room hotel spans two iconic buildings, one of which used to house the city’s former telephone exchange and the other previously home to KAS Bank, now known as Exchange and Bank respectively, with 172 five-star modern luxe-styled rooms in the former and 66 in the latter. Exchange is fully operational while Bank’s rooms will open in spring 2016. Once in full flight, the hotel will have a total of 21 suites, three WOW suites and two lavish Extreme WOW suites - the brand’s take on a presidential suite. Boasting an impressive 183m² of innovative design, an open plan bathroom complete with a hot tub, walk-in wardrobe and large round bed with extraordinary views of the Royal Palace, the Extreme WOW Suite is sure to become the city’s most sought after and glamorous crash pad. No doubt many a pop diva’s post show bash will be held here.

W Amsterdam was designed by Office Winhov & Baranowitz + Kronenberg Architecture, who collaborated with local designers to refresh the historic buildings with contemporary detailing inspired by their storied past, and features the hospitality industry’s first keyless entry system, enabling guests to use their smartphone or wearable device as a room key.

Guests arrive in style at the rooftop W Lounge - the brand’s re-interpretation of the traditional hotel lobby - on the sixth floor of Exchange. With four outdoor terraces and floor-to-ceiling windows, guests enjoy spectacular 360-degree views over canal houses, heritage sites and the dome of the Royal Palace while checking-in. Also contained within the glass-enclosed box on the rooftop of Exchange, Mr Porter blends qualities of a modern steakhouse with the sophisticated ambiance of a chic, high-energy lounge.

Across the street in Bank, The Duchess opened in June 2015 to rave reviews, combining an eclectic taste of London and Viennese grandeur. The building also houses a state-of-the-art fitness centre, a spa located amid the original bank vaults, and XBANK, a 700m² exhibition gallery and immersive creative incubator concept space that connects local design, fashion and music talents - all of which will be unveiled in Spring 2016 (together with the remaining 66 guest rooms). For anyone visiting the funky Dutch capital interested in fashion, design, art, clubbing and music, W Amsterdam is undoubtedly the new place to be. www.wamsterdam.com

AMSTERDAM

BOGOTÁ FOUR SEASONS HOTEL CASA MEDINA BOGOTÁ Originally built in 1946, Medellín born and Paris educated architect Santiago Medina Mejia incorporated pieces of demolished colonial convents (stone columns, hand-carved doors), reassembled reclaimed floors, polished wood paneling and wrought ironwork into his design of Casa Medina, to create an exclusive enclave of apartments and a beloved local landmark - in a fashionable area of the city. The historic building went through several alterations before being declared a national monument by the country’s Ministry of Culture in 1984 and turned into Hotel Casa Medina, which for more than 25 years, was the preferred choice amongst luxury travellers, rock stars, captains of industry and heads of state visiting the city. Hotel Casa Medina was once the playground of the capital’s power players and jet-setters - a beautifully accented hotel where hushed deals were brokered behind its hand-carved wooden doors - so it came as little surprise that Four Seasons snapped it up to debut the premium hotel brand in Colombia. With two more hotels due to open in the next year (including a second property in Bogotá), Four Seasons is betting big on Colombia and it’s not hard to see why. Tourism to the South American country has been steadily on the rise in the past few years as its international reputation has gradually improved. More than four million travellers visited Colombia in 2014 up more than 10% on 2013 - and half of them stopped off in Bogotá - no doubt drawn by its museums, architecture, thriving food scene and colourful street art.

The recent restoration of the building by architect Milena Vargas, has seen Casa Medina’s original French and Spanish architectural details skillfully preserved, while being enhanced by contemporary features including residential-style furnishings and a collection of traditional and current artwork selected by designer Lauren Rottet. Plus, of course, the addition of a myriad of conveniences for the modern day traveller, becoming of a luxury Four Seasons hotel.

No two of the new hotel’s 62 rooms and suites are alike. Most are reached via the original wooden staircase, which curves sensually past bright stained glass windows depicting songbirds, a favourite motif of Majia, the original architect. The Cultured Traveller recommends a junior suite, with its hand-carved wooden furniture, a leather sofa and armchair, trunk-style coffee table, bright refined décor, and a wood-burning open fireplace at its centre. www.fourseasons.com

30 The Cultured Traveller December 2015/January 2016

LONDON THE GORING Opened by Otto Richard Goring in 1910 (and still in the family to this day), he created the last authentic Edwardian hotel in Great Britain when The Goring was unveiled just two months before the death of Edward VII. It’s a very well designed hotel, with every thought given for the comfort of the guests - being the first hotel in the country to introduce en-suite bathrooms to every room.

Literally across the road from Buckingham Palace, The Goring is where the Middleton family and the Duchess of Cambridge stayed the night before the Royal Wedding, under the leadership of the fourth generation of the family to take charge of the five-star, 71-bedroom hotel, Jeremy Goring. Father and son are a delightful double act and keeping the hotel in the family is why The Goring has maintained its reputation for so long as a warm, friendly and - above all else - fun and characterful place to stay. The hotel also has the great advantage of a huge private garden, surrounded by flower borders and shrubbery, with a central lawn on which croquet is played in the summer months.

To mark its 100th anniversary, the hotel began a programme of stylish redecoration that has just finished with the unveiling of its ravishing new Front Hall, clad with hand-painted wallpaper of exotic animals in a romantic English landscape. Changes have also included the redesign of the dining room by David Linley and of the lounge, bar and terrace by Tim Gosling. The bedrooms have also gradually been refurbished by Gosling, Nina Campbell and Russell Sage. Future plans include the creation of a two-bedroom Centenary Suite from six bedrooms on the fifth floor.

Designed by Sage and using Gainsborough silks, with a grand piano and steps that lead down into an enormous bath, the suite is expected to be one of the most sumptuous in London. A further 20 bedrooms are to be refurbished, and a gym and pool are also planned.

For a rather special culinary experience, have dinner at The Dining Room, which was awarded its first Michelin star just a few months ago in September 2015. Executive chef, Shay Cooper, uses only the best seasonal British produce in his imaginative cooking, and his elegant dishes complement the hotel perfectly. Bollinger afternoon tea - served every afternoon in the traditional five-star surroundings of the Bar & Lounge - is also a must. www.thegoring.com

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GREAT BARRIER REEF

LIZARD ISLAND

Located 240km north of Cairns and 27km off the coast of tropical North Queensland, Lizard Island is a national park covering more than 1,000 hectares amid the natural beauty of the Great Barrier Reef, and is only accessible by private charter from Cairns Airport. Thus this unique and truly beautiful location is completely secluded from the rest of the world, and the resort is reserved for the fortunate few to experience an unforgettable holiday like no other.

It's but a short drive from the gravel airstrip to the resort, which recently reopened after an extensive 12-month USD50 million renovation. Guests check-in while reclining on cushioned benches, sipping champagne and snacking on fruit, chocolate dipping sauce, and smoked salmon rolls. This deluxe welcome sets the tone for the standard of vacation which lies ahead for lucky guests, who enjoy secluded picnics and sunset culinary feasts on private beaches, twilight snorkeling, dusk cruises, night dives and five star cuisine. Six motorised dinghies are provided for guests to explore the island's 24 virtually untouched white sand beaches - with gourmet picnic hampers to take with you considerately included in your room rate.

The new Essential Day Spa is a luxurious and serene retreat, offering a menu of pampering spa and indulgent treatments, complemented by organic products by high-end French brand La Biosthetique, plus a new dedicated manicure and pedicure room.

Guests slumber in 40 elegant rooms and suites which all provide breathtaking vistas of the Australian seascape. Using the stunning views from each room as the palate for the redesign, OPV Architects and Hecker Guthrie have created fresh, new interiors which naturally integrate with the surrounding environment, combining neutral tones with highlights of colours from the surrounding reef, including coral, blue and gold. The resort’s best accommodation is The Villa: 154m² of deluxe accommodation secluded from the rest of the property, and afforded the ultimate privacy atop a ridge, that boasts two bedrooms en-suite, a spacious lounge (with butler’s kitchen) opening onto an expansive deck overlooking the Coral Sea, and a private 8-metre plunge pool.

With everything a guest might need on the island provided, Lizard Island Resort is an ideal destination for highflying execs and corporate kings to detach and unplug. Indeed there is no mobile phone signal on the island (but there is Wi-Fi) and guests are restricted to one suitcase and one small item of carry-on on the charter flight from Cairns - totalling no more than 32kg each - so dinner suits and Manolos should most definitely be left at home! www.lizardisland.com.au

VIENNA AUSTRIA’S MAJESTIC, REFINED & BEAUTIFUL CAPITAL WRITTEN BY ALEX BENASULI

A A

city of grand palaces, world-class art museums and elegant coffee houses awaits you in Vienna. Capital of Austria and former epicentre of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the city exudes stateliness, importance and respectability. However, this external formality is softened by the exquisiteness of the city’s cultural offerings, particularly in the areas of music, theatre, art and design, in all of which Vienna was one of the world’s leading centres for centuries, and in many ways still

is. A cross between Paris and Budapest with accents of Berlin, Prague and Zurich, Vienna is a gateway between Western and Eastern Europe. Orderly like Northern Europe, it also has some of the joie de vivre of the south. Vienna is where the slow lane meets highbrow. This is not a city in a rush. It is compact and mostly accessible by foot, making it ideal for a weekend break or even just a day. Yet the desire to see and learn more about the city’s glorious past and discover the Vienna of today, only grows the more time one

I love a city where you can go from the airport baggage claim to the centre of town in thirty minutes or less. Vienna is such a city. You can hit the ground running within an hour of arriving.

December 2015/January 2016 The Cultured Traveller 35

spends there. The music, art, parks, bike lane networks, café society and low crime rate all combine to consistently rank Vienna as one of the most liveable cities in the world.

I love a city where you can go from the airport baggage claim to the centre of town in thirty minutes or less. Vienna is such a city. You can hit the ground running, as I did, within an hour of arriving. When I explained to my taxi driver that it was my first time in Vienna, he eagerly shared a wealth of knowledge about the city’s palaces, music halls and parks breezing past the car en route to the hotel. The Viennese are incredibly proud of the history and beauty of their city. Almost all of the high-end hotels, grand buildings and luxury shops are located within the 1st district, the historical heart of Vienna. The district is a tangle of tidy streets bordered by middle European 17th through early 20th century buildings. Ornate Baroque fountains and churches stand side-by-side stylised art nouveau-fronted cafés and pharmacies. At the district’s centre lies St. Stephen's Cathedral. With its multi-coloured tiled roof, St. Stephen’s is one of the city’s most recognisable landmarks and the perfect place from which to start exploring the enchanting capital. Alternatively the Ringstrasse - a horseshoe-shaped set of grand boulevards that borders the entire 1st district and separates it from the outer districts - is a good choice to begin to get to know Vienna on foot. The Ringstrasse was commissioned by Emperor Franz Joseph in 1858 and finished in 1865. It was meant to signify Vienna's arrival as a European modern metropolis, in the spirit of what Boulevard Haussmann did 36 The Cultured Traveller December 2015/January 2016

for Paris and what the Diagonal did for Barcelona. At the time, Europe’s leading architects, financed by the newly wealthy bourgeoisie, built stately and elegant apartment blocks, single-family mansions and government buildings to announce Vienna's place as one of the world’s greatest cities. Today, a walk, cycle or tram ride along the tree lined 5.3km Ringstrasse allows one to leisurely take in some of the city’s most important buildings and parks. At one end there is the Greek revival Austrian National Parliament building, the gothic Rathaus (town hall) and Burgtheater -

SEE MAK

The Museum of Applies Arts is a jewel and a must see for design buffs. It houses one of the most complete and impressive collections of Art Nouveau style in the world, primarily based on design architecture, furniture and art and crafts. The exhibit chronicles the origins of art nouveau from the 1890s, a time when Austria was in search of a modern style, up through to interwar period, when the style and art deco became more en vogue globally. Except for the most devoted of connoisseurs, the entire collection could be appreciated in less than an hour. However, the knowledge gained will help to enlighten visitors of the visually stunning part of not only Viennese art and cultural history, but also of modernism. When the MAK opened in 1863, founded by Emperor Franz Joseph, it was the first of the many grand museums to open on the Ringstrasse. At the end of the year, the much beloved restaurant space at the MAK will be reopened under the name Salon Plafond. www.mak.at

UPPER BELVEDERE The Belvedere refers to the palace complex situated in Vienna’s 3rd district.

The grounds date from the early 1700s and include two baroque palaces (Lower and Upper), fountains and gardens. The Upper Belvedere houses

one of the most important theatres in the German-speaking world. At the other end lies the splendid Museum for Applied Arts (MAK) and the world famous Staatsoper (state opera house). At the top of the Ringstrasse - like the jewels in the crown - are the Natural and Art History Museums, giving way to the elegant parks that border the sumptuous Hofburg Palace (www.hofburg-wien.at), the former imperial palace that was the winter residence of the rulers of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, on and off since the 13th century.

the world’s largest collection of oil paintings by Gustav Klimt. Klimt was one of the founders of the Secession movement in Austria, an extension of Art Nouveau. His sensual and immediately recognizable paintings have become part of today’s zeitgeist. In the Upper Belvedere you have an entire gallery devoted to these iconic masterpieces, including Kiss and Judith. For many, it is one of life’s highlights to gaze at these works in person. The effect is profound. Works by Egon Schiele and Oskar Kokoschka, devotees of Klimt, are also represented. www.belvedere.at

STATE HALL LIBRARY If the notion of tackling the entirety of Baroque art history intimidates or exhausts, head to the State Hall Library for a quick but awe inspiring fix.

The former court library was created in the first half of the 18th century. It is considered one of the most beautiful library halls in the world and one of the most important examples of secular Baroque architecture. More than 200,000 volumes are displayed here as well as housing one of the largest collections of Martin Luther writings from the Reformation Era. On display are a roving assortment of one of a kind illuminated manuscripts and maps. However, it is the marble floors, frescoed arches and domes, and floor to ceiling walnut bookcases that combine to impress. The effect is at once joyous, jaw dropping and scholarly.

In Vienna it seems there is a museum for almost everything.

The splendour of Austria is on display in numerous buildings, housing collections that make up the palace complex. These include the Sisi and Treasury Museums. As I explored the complex, I randomly stumbled into the State Hall, which is regarded as the one of the most handsome libraries in the world, and is the biggest baroque library in Europe. Elaborate, elegant, breath-taking and under visited, the State Hall ranks amongst the most spectacular set of rooms I have ever seen. The wealth and art collections of the Hapsburgs are on display throughout Vienna. The Albertina Museum - located in the 1st district near the Hofburg Palace houses pristine examples of what Hapsburg interiors looked like, including furniture and tapestries, plus some exceptional drawings by Michelangelo and Durer. The museum is better known for its excellent permanent collection of impressionist paintings. It would be impossible for many to contemplate art and Vienna without mentioning Gustav Klimt. Vienna is one of the best cities in Europe, and indeed the world, to gain an appreciation for art nouveau, the modernising movement that swept through the western world at the turn of the 20th century and led to art deco.

Klimt remains perhaps the most well known of the art nouveau protagonists. The Klimt gallery at the Upper Belvedere - another palace complex of exhibition spaces in Vienna's 3rd district - has the most Klimt paintings in one space anywhere in the world. If art nouveau is your thing then a visit to MAK, the Museum for Applied Arts, is a must.

It houses an unrivalled collection of furniture, decorative arts, and paintings that chronicle the art nouveau movement.

TASTE CAFÉ CENTRAL Vienna has no shortage of historic and authentic cafes. However, Café Central ticks all the boxes and then some. Founded in 1836, it is a Viennese institution. In the late 19th century it was a key meeting place of the Viennese intellectual scene. Famous patrons included Leon Trotsky, Josip Tito, Sigmund Freud and even Adolf Hitler. The interior is impressive – marble pillars, arched ceilings and glittering chandeliers. Waiters in black tie usher patrons to banquets or standalone tables and chairs and ply them with delicious home made pastries and coffee served dozens of ways. You can ogle the pastries in the dual aspect glass display cases that dominate the foreground of the café. From 5pm on most days there is live piano music.

The location on the corner on an attractive and busy street in the 1st district, a stone’s throw away from the Hoffburg Palace, means that you will probably pass by its entrance numerous times. Take the time to go in and enjoy what Vienna is famous for. www.cafécentral-wien.at

ZUM SCHWARZEN KAMEEL Another Viennese institution, Zum Schwarzen Kameel (The Black Camel) was founded in 1618. It occupies a very prominent position just off the Graben in the heart of the Vienna’s luxury shopping district. Its credentials

Virtually unique to Vienna, are the vineyards that thrive in the hilly outskirts within the city limits. Wine taverns, or “heurige”, take a close second place to coffee houses as places to socialise and unwind.

So much walking around and absorbing millennia of art and history, is best enjoyed by taking plenty of breaks and visiting as many cafés as possible. Vienna is famous for its coffee houses, institutions throughout the city where you can effortlessly linger from breakfast through to lunch and on to dinner. Almost immediately upon arrival, I made my way to Café Landtmann on the Ringstrasse - a regular haunt of Sigmund Freud - for a late lunch of Wiener Schnitzel and

as an esteemed dining establishment were established during the time of Beethoven who is said to have been a regular patron. The locale runs a slightly different format than a typical café. The large front room is mostly standing with bar stools and counter tops, yet is sophisticated. They serve tasty sandwiches and of course coffee and pastries. If time is not an issue and a proper lunch or dinner is desired, head to the elegant and intimate art nouveau dining room towards the back. The menu, which focuses on Austrian specialties, changes seasonally. Be sure to order Wiener schnitzel even if you don’t see it on the menu. They prepare this national dish beautifully. www.kameel.at

PLACHUTTA For straight up Viennese cuisine served in a low key yet inviting setting, head to Plachutta. Popular with both tourists and locals alike, Plachutta specialises in Tafelspitz or boiled beef, another one of Austria’s national dishes. Potatoes, chives, and a sauce combining horseradish and applesauce accompany each order. The menu features other Viennese staples such as goulash soup, calves liver and braised pork with cabbage.

The cross-section of patrons, from business men to families to visitors, gives proof that comfort food served in a warm and unfussy surrounding is as popular as ever. Reservations are highly recommended. www.plachutta.at

potato salad, followed by apple strudel and coffee with heavy cream. My fellow patrons were a mix of well-heeled Viennese politicians and businessmen, families, bohemian intellectuals and tourists. When visiting Café Landtmann and others - like Café Central, Café Mozart, Zum Schwartzen Kameel and Café Sperl - do take the time to ogle and taste the sumptuous pastries and peruse coffee menus that are pages long. Don’t be in a rush. Watch the world go by. Relax and recharge. Coffee culture is deeply rooted in the city's history and psyche. One of the seminal moments in Viennese and Western European history took place in 1683 when the Ottoman army was finally defeated at the city's gates, thereby keeping Vienna out of the Ottoman sphere

UPPER BELVEDERE

Virtually unique to Vienna are the vineyards that thrive in the hilly outskirts within the city limits. Wine taverns take a close second place to coffee houses as places to socialise and unwind.

December 2015/January 2016 The Cultured Traveller 38

forever. Sacks of coffee belonging to the retreating Ottomans were found, and the rest, as they say, is history. Viennese café culture really came into it’s own at the end of the 19th century. It was in the coffee houses that the different classes and segments of society - such as artists, writers, musicians, scientists and businessmen - would mingle and discuss topics of the day.

Enjoying life is a prerogative of the Viennese. Virtually unique to Vienna, are the vineyards that thrive in the hilly outskirts within the city limits. Wine taverns, or “heurige”, take a close second place to coffee houses as places to socialise and unwind. In the warmer months, sitting outside

SCHONBRUNN PALACE 40

in the gardens of the taverns, surrounded by vineyards, is a favourite pastime of locals. Vienna is well known for its parks and gardens. Fifty percent of Vienna's land mass is made-up of public green spaces, making it ideal for runners, cyclists and nature lovers. There is Prater Park famous for its Ferris wheel, which was the tallest in the world until 1985.

There is the Volksgarten, known for the hundreds of varieties of roses which make up the imperial rose garden. There is Stadtpark with its boating lake, and statues of Mozart, Strauss and Schubert, a nod to Vienna's status as the city of music. A bit further afield is Schönbrunner Schlosspark, home of the elegant Schönbrunn Palace, summer residence of the Habsburgs.

City of palaces, city of gardens, city of music, city of museums, city of coffee houses.. there are so many layers to Vienna. The city may no longer be capital of an empire but its proud and elegant spirit is alive and well.

Home to OPEC, the IAEA (International Atomic Energy Agency), and the third most important United Nations city after New York and Geneva, Vienna continues to pull its weight in the world. And, due to its geography and historical ties, Vienna is the de facto financial capital of Eastern Europe, the River Danube connecting the city to Bratislava, Budapest and Belgrade.

Beethoven wrote and premiered his great masterpiece “Ode to Joy” - the final movement of his 9th symphony - in Vienna.

The city and it glorious sites made my heart sing. Like any good flirt, confident of their attraction and self worth, the city left me wanting more.

SIP

LOOS AMERICAN BAR For more than a century, Loos Bar (also know as the American Bar) has been one of the architectural jewels of fin de siècle, art nouveau Vienna. Located in the heart of the 1st district, the space itself is intimate and cosy. However what it lacks in physical space, it more than makes up in style and vibe. Mahogany counters, ceiling panels and mirrored walls combine with onyx and amber backlit wall tiles, and green and white marble floors, to create this timeless temple of bohemian elegance. Gucci filmed a TV advertisement here a few years ago. Loos has always been a beacon for visiting Hollywood stars ever since Orson Wells made it his regular haunt when filming The Third Man in the 1930s. The owner operates a strict no camera rule. To sip a cocktail at Loos is the epitome of chic. www.loosbar.at

MEINL’S WEINBAR Also located in the 1st district, Meinl’s wine bar offers a sophisticated boozy break from the luxury shopping that surrounds it. Austria is becoming increasingly well recognized for its wines. Offering more than 30 mostly local wines by the glass and 2000 by the bottle. Meinl is the perfect place to advance your Austrian sommelier skills. The Weinbar is located in the lower ground floor of Julius Meinl am Graben, the well-known gourmet food and wine department store. Meinl is a delicatessen temple in the league of Harrods’s of London and Fouchon of Paris. www.meinl.com

LE LOFT For an alternative to the many traditional and historic places in which Vienna excels at, head to Le Loft, the rooftop bar and restaurant on the 18th floor of the Sofitel hotel in Vienna’s 2nd district. Floor to ceiling, wrap around windows allow for a dramatic birds eye view over Vienna and beyond. Go before sunset for drinks and then stay on for dinner at the acclaimed restaurant. The wine list is certainly impressive; however, this is a real cocktail bar. The vibe is smart and cosmopolitan. www.sofitel.at

SPEND

LOBMEYR

J. & L. Lobmeyr is the famous glassware shop and museum located in Vienna’s 1st district.

Founded in 1823, Lobmeyr has provided glassware and chandeliers to palaces, museums, and private homes all over the world ever since. Past clients include the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Kennedy Performing Arts Centre and the Kremlin. At their main store, they offer an extensive offering of the finest European manufacturers and ateliers as well as their own designs and lines. There is a particular focus on glassware table sets, decorative accessories, chandeliers and other lighting fixtures. There is no pressure to buy. However, the exquisiteness of what is on display will make it difficult to escape empty handed. The second floor is the home to the glass museum. The 19th century interiors are worth the visit alone. In many ways Lobmeyr epitomizes the best of Vienna – imperial splendour with 21st century appeal. www.lobmeyr.at

HOLZER GALERIE Located in the leafy and trendy 7th district, Holzer Galerie is a treasure trove of art nouveau furniture. They deal original pieces from both the late 19th and early 20th Centuries. They have repeat clients from around the world who commission individual pieces as well as furnish entire homes. The airy and well-proportioned showroom is complimented by detailed catalogues, outlining history and inventory of all the signature Art Nouveau styles for most furniture types. Bespoke orders on reproductions can be customized in terms of wood finish and textile type and colour. Werner Holzer, one of the owners, is friendly, helpful and more than willing to sit down with customers to determine what their requirements are. Actually, there are two show rooms on the same street: one that deals more exclusively with furniture reproductions and the other with original pieces and more portable home accessories. www.galerieholzer.at

BURGGASSE 24 Also in the 7th district, Burgasse 24, is a forward thinking concept store combining art and fashion along with café. Primarily focussed on a well-curated and vintage selection of men and women’s clothing and accessories, Burggasse 24 also features contemporary young designers. Couches and shabby chic style make the store feel like a living room. Indeed, it is so welcoming and comfortable that you may just want to stay a while. There is an adjoining space that also serves as an art gallery and event room, where you’ll often find a DJ on the decks. The café is warm and buzzy, acting as a bit of a creative nexus for the area, a hub of creative boutiques and galleries that stand in contrast to the more traditional and well heeled offerings in the 1st district. www.facebook.com/burggasse24

PALAIS HANSEN KEMPINSKI VIENNA Heritage listed and 5-star, the Palais Hansen Kempinkski combines location with modern comforts in elegant surroundings. The ambience is relaxed luxury. The hotel is located at the Schottenring part of the Ringstrasse, on the periphery of Vienna’s historic 1st district. Originally built as a hotel for the World Exhibition in 1873, the building encompasses latter 19th century scale and period features with 21st century creature and technological comforts.

Within walking distance of the Vienna Stock Exchange, St. Stephen’s Cathedral and Hofburg Palace, the hotel’s central location also benefits from easy vehicle and U-Bahn access. Opened in 2013 after a multi year renovation, the property feels fresh and warm. Home to Edvard - a Michelin-stared fine dining restaurant the Palais Hansen Kempinski has established itself as one of Vienna’s most desirable addresses.

The cosy, old world-style reception and concierge area gives way to a large main lobby, the central courtyard of this former palace.

Double height and topped with large skylights, the spaciousness and light of the foyer impresses. The centre of the room is dominated by a coffee table (with books and games to choose from), from which an architectural gem of standing chandelier emanates. It is a lobby in which to have tea, conduct an informal meeting or to just relax on the many sofas after a busy day or night out on the town.

It feels like the living room you wish you had. This union of classic yet relaxed is evident throughout the hotel. Die Kuche is the more

42 The Cultured Traveller December 2015/January 2016

informal all day dining restaurant, its layout incredibly well considered. There is an open seating area as well as more private seating nooks. The tables are well spaced from each other, ensuring a degree of discretion if you want it. The main dining room features impressive and well-maintained living walls and natural flooring.

The breakfast buffet is one of the best you may ever experience in terms of quality and presentation, reminiscent of an upscale Viennese bakery. The hotel spa - which includes a fitness centre, pool and sauna – is not dissimilar to an Ottoman hamam, complete with geometric doors and multi-coloured tiles. All of these details add an innovative and intimate touch to this high-end property.

All 152 rooms - including 54 suites - combine classic design and Viennese style elements. Colours are subtle shades of brown, beige and cream. All rooms have an iPad-driven entertainment system, allowing guests to not only regulate the TV and lights from one place but also order room service, book spa treatments and read newspapers. Bespoke for Palais Hansen Kempinski, each room has a Vienna insider’s guide that provides unique, exciting and helpful tips for discovering some of the city’s more off the beaten track delights. Whilst Kempinski properties excel at delivering luxury experiences in excellent locations with superb service, it is the personal and individual touches at Palais Hansen Kempinski that make the hotel truly stand out. www.kempinski.com

PARK HYATT VIENNA Park Hyatt Vienna reset the standard for luxury accommodation in the city when it opened mid 2014. Located in the 1st district, in the oldest square in the city, Am Hof, the hotel is literally in the middle of it all. It sits within the city’s recently pedestrianised luxury shopping district and is fifteen-minutes walk from most of Vienna’s important sites, including the Hofburg Palace, Albertina Museum and Opera House. The hotel occupies a 100-year old protected building that was once the national headquarters of a bank. The imposing edifice underwent a five-year no-expense-spared renovation, which returned the building to its former art nouveau glory. The result is nothing short of spectacular.

Opulent and sophisticated, Park Hyatt Vienna exudes luxury throughout.

As one might imagine from a turn of the century bank headquarters, the proportions of the lobby and foyer are enormous and ooze establishment. However, it is the wealth of art nouveau architectural and design details that make the property exceptional and without doubt on par with the world’s best hotel buildings.

Marble, rich wood panelling, alabaster, brass and mother-of-pearl are plentiful throughout. In keeping with its origins, the name of the main restaurant, which is open plan and an integral part of the hotel experience, is called Bank. It is nothing short of a visual

masterpiece. In addition to lunch and dinner, Bank is where breakfast is served. The effect of starting one’s day in such a lavish setting is not easily forgotten. It lifts, awakens and impresses the senses. Many of the hotel’s common areas are named after various elements of the building’s history and design details. The lounge and bar is called Pearl, after mother-of-pearl. Adjacent to Pearl is the more clubby, wood panelled Living Room, which is a deluxe cigar and whisky bar. Arany, the spa, occupies the basement of the building. The swimming pool floor is adorned with gold leaf, paying homage to its location in the former bank vault.

The Art Nouveau detailing continues throughout the hotel’s 108 rooms including 35 suites, many of which have been fashioned from the former executive bank offices. All rooms have high ceilings, parquet flooring and large windows with views over the baroque facades of Am Hof square or Vienna’s historical cityscape.

Rooms feel opulent yet uncluttered.

The location, Bank, Pearl and Arany all make Park Hyatt Vienna an incredibly desirable and luxurious hotel address. However, it is the attention to design detail and the lovingly attentive restoration that catapults this property to world class status. www.hyatt.com

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Upper Suite The Upper House

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pace comes at a premium in Hong Kong, where the average price of real estate is higher than almost anywhere else in the world, and urban development surges upwards rather than outwards. The tangle of tall office and residential buildings that cover every inch of Hong Kong Island’s prime commercial and financial hubs clamour for space as they soar to the sky, affording spectacular views of bustling Victoria Harbour and its throng of maritime life.

According to Forbes, luxury real estate in the city averaged USD11,000 per square foot in 2012, and it has continued to rise since then. It’s a situation worthy of contemplation as I gaze out from my suite on the 44th floor of The Upper House, the aptly named boutique hotel designed by Hong Kong-based wunderkind Andre Fu, which counts celebrities, business tycoons and the odd royal among its loyal guests. It’s also the flagship property of Swire Hotels’ slowly expanding House Collective, which also has properties in Beijing and Chengdu.

From my Upper Suite, the view is uninterrupted for 270 degrees, looking out across the towers of Hong Kong Island and over the harbour to the buildings of Kowloon on the other side. To the rear, lush, forested slopes spill down the side of The Peak, the green mountain that towers over the city.

46 40 The Cultured Traveller December 2015/January 2016

There are just twenty-one Upper Suites at the hotel, which are second in size only to two Penthouse Suites, which are virtually identical but for the addition of a second bedroom. My temporary home, suite number 4406, is an open and welcoming space that radiates warmth and natural calm, with limed oak floors and cream oak timber walls offset by art that seems to have been designed with the suite in mind. The first thing you see on entering is a wood-grain sandstone sculpture by artist Marvin Mintofang, whose work appears throughout the hotel. Amid the frenetic activity of Hong Kong, walking into the suite puts me immediately at ease.

The hotel has no reception area in the traditional sense; check-in takes place in the comfort of the suites, where snacks pre-ordered during the airport limo transfer (in a Lexus RX450 Hybrid or Mercedes S-Class – both with WiFi) are ready and waiting.

The term ‘House’ is fitting, and I feel at home as soon as I enter the suite. In the living area, there’s a huge L-shaped sofa, stacks of weighty hardback tomes on fashion, architecture and design, and floor-to-ceiling windows. Next door, there’s a roomy bedroom with plenty of wardrobe space and a meditative bathroom with twin sinks (essential to a harmonious holiday if travelling with a significant other), a huge limestone

bathtub loaded with all-natural REN amenities, and an open-sided rain shower whose podium-like floor lends a pleasing sense of drama to one’s ablutions.

The neutral colour palette throughout the suite (and the rest of the hotel), with liberal use of oak, bamboo and other natural finishes, appeals to the aesthete and the naturalist. If, like me, you like your hotel rooms unfussy, intelligent and practical, this will tick all your boxes. But it’s the small touches that elevate this from a great room to a suite par excellence: a ‘Maxi Bar’ (their version of the minibar) complete with complimentary soft drinks, snacks and beer (wine and champagne is chargeable) that’s restocked daily, playing cards in case the mood demands a game of bridge, and a bathrobe that’s softer than a kitten’s belly.

I couldn’t say how long I spent gazing out over Hong Kong as it changed colour throughout the day, the

neighbouring buildings reflecting kaleidoscopic images on their mirrored windows. The only reason compelling enough to tear me away from those views and the comfort of my suite was sun-downers and dinner at the superb Café Gray Deluxe, the domain of Chef Gray Kunz and home to what I will confidently call the best braised short-rib in Hong Kong. Martinis at the bar followed by dinner at a table by the window overlooking the twinkling lights of Hong Kong is an absolute must. Repeat your visit the following morning to enjoy breakfast in the company of finance execs, bankers and the occasional pouty model, who appear equally in awe of the superb à la carte breakfast menu.

If you can tear yourself away from the hotel itself, there’s plenty to entertain in the immediate vicinity.

The hotel occupies the uppermost 11 floors of an angular, glass and steel building in Pacific Place, a vast Swire Properties mixed-use project in Admiralty that

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includes four five-star hotels, acres of premium office space, serviced apartments and one of the most luxury brand-packed malls in the world.

Head out through The Upper House’s discrete porte cochère, tucked away behind the ‘Stone Curtain’ façade of the building, to explore Pacific Place. This elegant entrance is part of the development’s recent face-lift by British architect Thomas Heatherwick, whose other notable works include the 2012 Olympic Cauldron, the Bombay Sapphire Distillery, and the new style London bus.

Returning to the hotel on a post-shopping high, you’ll notice the Stone Curtain is just one part of what Andre Fu called the ‘Poetic Upward Journey’: a voyage through art, which continues from the entrance all the way up to the 49th floor in the Sky Lounge and Café Gray Deluxe. This artistic journey is mapped out on a beautifully designed presentation card listing

individual works and their creators, available from the concierge desk on the ground floor.

It’s likely that you will have to leave your suite during the course of your stay, be it for a business meeting or to explore the gritty neighbourhood of Wan Chai, which is going through ultra-rapid gentrification as Michelin-star chefs and independent designers move in. But leaving just makes the return all the more sweet, and entering The Upper House after another Hong Kong escapade feels like coming home, again and again.

Writer Joe Mortimer stayed in an Upper Suite at The Upper House in September 2015.

In December 2015 and January 2016 the nightly rate for an Upper Suite is USD2,500 inclusive of breakfast and taxes. www.upperhouse.com December 2015/January 2016 The Cultured Traveller 49 43

QATAR AIRWAYS’ A380 BUSINESS CLASS Few international carriers have achieved growth quite as quickly and established themselves quite as strongly in the worldwide airline arena as Qatar Airways. First established in 1993 and re-launched in 1997, the national carrier of Qatar, based at the multi-billion dollar Doha Hamad International Airport, has in just twenty years grown at an astronomical pace, from a fledging airline of less than a handful of planes, to a multi award-winning premium brand known the world over, flying 160 aircraft to destinations across six continents. Winner of the prestigious Skytrax Airline Of The Year award no less than three times in the past five years - in 2011, 2012 & 2015 - it is hardly surprising therefore, that from one of

introduce a two class configured A380 seating 617 passengers), Qatar Airways is bucking the trend and putting service and comfort for its premium passengers first, which in an ever growing market segment, may just prove to be a very wise move. Affluent travellers are demanding more for their money and better service on board, and the Qatar Airways A380 business class cabin delivers this with just 48 seats on the upper deck in a 1-2-1 configuration, each with an 80” fully flat bed, 17” HD in-flight entertainment screen and direct aisle access.

the youngest fleets in our skies today comes probably the best designed A380 interior I have experienced to date. Qatar Airways' A380 business class product is so thoughtfully designed and seamlessly executed, that apart from a couple of minor irritations, I found the entire experience impossible to fault, and for someone who has flown the skies in a number of A380 business class cabins on different airlines, these are not words I speak lightly.

Soho cocktail bar than anything I had experienced in the sky to date, with a long, curved central bar virtually dividing the room in two, allowing people to sit and chat on either side, on deep curving leather sofas, broken up by small tables, where passengers could gaze out of the windows at the fluffy cloudscape whilst sipping their flutes of Krug - or stand at the bar and order an expertly-mixed cocktail and nibble on olives and snacks.

The room felt very un plane-like, probably due to the absence of a large screen mapping the route of the flight (which so many airlines seem to like), force-reminding passengers that they are on a plane, when perhaps they'd prefer to feel like they are in an upscale lounge floating through the sky. Qatar Airways has got this room just right. I could have lingered there - as some passengers did - for the entire journey.

The quality of Qatar Airways’ business class service has, I believe, a lot to do with the airline’s spacious configuration of 517 seats in three classes. At a time when airlines seem to be cramming more people onto their A380s (Emirates has dropped its first class cabin from some of its undelivered superjumbos, in order to 50 The Cultured Traveller December 2015/January 2016

The elegant lounge area had more in common with a slick

From the moment the super jumbo quietly took off and began its ascent into the sky, an air of calm, tranquility and understated exclusivity filled the business class cabin, which was presided over by a bevvy of graceful and polite attendants, floating up and down the aisles, smiling as they delivered food dishes and tasty treats to grateful guests. I'm not sure if it was the perfectly turned-out all-female crew, or whether all of the business class passengers on my flight were under some sort of hypnotic spell, but everyone was relaxed and chilled and happy. The flight felt like a moving members club in the sky, with not a trolley in sight, and guests waited on hand and foot and delivered everything they wanted on demand. No rigid meal times. No fussiness. No rules. No set anything. Recline, walk-around, watch a movie, sip, eat, chat, relax and enjoy. I had much pressing work to get done on the flight, but once on board found it very

both easy access to the seat and some reassuring cosseting when sleeping. An ingenious desk-shelf glided out from underneath the TV screen, on the same level as the surrounding shelves, to provide surely one of the largest workspaces of any business class in the sky, providing ample space for my laptop, phones, magazines, glasses and various other bits and bobs we all drag onto planes with us. And when I needed a bigger desk, a flap folded out to enlarge the workspace further, all exceptionally well engineered, solid-feeling, beautifully designed and supremely functional. In fact, pretty much everything I touched during the flight felt high quality and built-to-last.

difficult to set my mind to work mode, such was the calmness of the energy in the cabin.

meal times, despite being instructed, when the flight took off, to serve us at the same time. It was annoying that I was eating my main course while my companion was already on dessert. Since this could apparently not be corrected midway through our meals, I suggest you do make sure that - if travelling with someone - you make the crew well aware that you want to eat at the same time. This was honestly my only complaint. With the exception that the flight from London to Doha wasn’t long enough. I could have easily spent 10 hours or more in Qatar Airways’ A380 private members club in the sky.

The toilet felt more like a bijou, nightclub powder room rather than a loo in the sky - scented with fresh red roses, decorated in a number of finishes including faux wood veneers and marble, with a large sink and waterfall tap, laden with deluxe toiletries by Rituals of the Netherlands.

An oversized padded leather seat covered the toilet, so when using the room just to change or freshen-up, the space felt like a posh, compact changing room.

From the perspective of a business traveller and laptop user, the functionality of the seat and desk were the best I had ever experienced on any A380. Armrests rose and dropped electrically at the touch of a button, providing

My solitary gripe on my flight, was that when travelling with a companion (as I was) and occupying the central two seats, we were served by different stewardesses in different aisles who could not seem to coordinate our

Nicholas Chrisostomou flew on a Qatar Airways A380 from Heathrow to Doha on 15 November 2015. www.qatarairways.com

SKY BRIEF NEW VVIP TERMINAL AT LAX Pop divas, Hollywood movie stars, tech billionaires and corporate moguls aren’t your average air travellers. So it should come as little surprise that Los Angeles International Airport is building a special terminal to protect celebrities from the indignities of paparazzi photos and encounters with - or even just the mere sight of - the general public and autograph-seekers.

The American Board of Airport Commissioners has unanimously approved a plan to

LA COMPAGNIE ALL BUSINESS CLASS TO NEW YORK

redevelop a cargo hanger into a rather special terminal. For USD1,500 to USD1,800 per flight, celebrities and diplomats will be able to drive (or let's face it - more likely be driven) into a covered entrance, before entering a terminal with its own security line, passport controls and lounges. When it’s time to board, a car service will drive passengers directly to the plane. The Cultured Traveller suspects that Kanye West may be footing the bill for LAX’s new VVIP terminal, so that no one (apart from he) gets to see his Kardashian spouse remove her Louboutins and put them on a conveyor belt.

fares, and replaced the usual 300+ seats with just 74 flat-beds. Marketing itself as "the boutique airline for people who like business class comfort without the business class price tag", their company, La Compagnie, may well revolutionise business class travel in the same way easyJet and Ryanair revolutionised economy.

Winter offers start at just GBP1,000 Luton Newark return, or GBP1,700 for two passengers flying together. The Cultured Traveller thinks that this is a bit of a bargain for an all business class roundtrip from London to the Big Apple. www.lacompagnie.com

SINGAPORE UPGRADING 777 FLEET Premium Asia Pacific carrier,

EMIRATES' NEW 617-SEATER A380 Emirates launched on 25

Singapore Airlines, is investing USD325 million to retro-upgrade 19 Boeing 777-300ERs with the latest generation of cabin products, featuring new seats in all classes and the world’s most advanced in-flight entertainment system. This huge spend on existing aircraft will provide consistency across the airline’s entire 777 fleet, and demonstrates Singapore's confidence in the future of premium full-service air travel and the airline's determination to keep high-spending travellers happy.

October 1985 with a single route to Karachi. Back then Dubai Airport had just 3 million passengers annually. 30 years later the airport handles more than 70 million passengers and the airline is the world's largest operator of the Airbus A380. Emirates currently flies more than 60 of the superjumbos, but - in an attempt to command greater yields for its brand and reputation - has recently taken delivery of two new A380s that do not feature the airline's prestigious first class

The new cabin products are currently available on selected daily services to London Heathrow and Tokyo Narita. They were introduced after more than two years of development with world-renowned design firms, including BMW Group DesignworksUSA and James Park Associates. Singapore's new first class seat featured a fixed-back shell design with curved side panels for added privacy, ergonomically sculpted cushion and adjustable headrest, customised in-seat lighting, and at 35 inches wide and with an increased bed length of 82 inches, is one of the most spacious first class products in the sky. www.singaporeair.com

suites. The premium Middle Eastern carrier has dropped its 14 first class suites and 2 showers from 15 of its undelivered superjumbos, in order to introduce the world’s first two-class configured A380, which will seat 617 passengers in economy and business classes. This is a full 100 passengers more than it's regional airline rival, Qatar Airways, whose A380 jets carry 517 passengers.

Emirates has this month launched daily flights between Dubai and Copenhagen, using its first two-class 617-seat A380s. www.emirates.com

There is something very special about a plane where everyone is in luxury class - it feels like a private jet, or an exclusive flying club where everyone is an invited guest or of a certain wealth level. Two Frenchmen, with years of aviation experience, Frantz Yvelin and Peter Luethi, identified the world’s two most popular long-haul routes - Paris and London to New York - leased two Boeing 757-200s from Icelandair, did away with economy completely and lowered business class

December 2015/January 2016 The Cultured Traveller 53

54

No Shoes Required Claudia Avila-Batchelor is embraced by an opulent seafront palace retreat, on the shores of Playa Grande in the Dominican Republic

C

hristopher Columbus marveled at the lushness and beauty of Hispaniola when he first set eyes on her in December 1492. Making it his colonial base from which to explore the Americas during his efforts to establish permanent settlements on the island of Hispaniola, initiated the Spanish colonisation of the new world. The subsequent

decimation of her natives and imperialistic dominance, resulted in the division of the island into what is now Haiti in the west and the Dominican Republic in the east. Despite these historical horrors, the Dominican Republic has remained stoic and majestic, continuing to lure people from all over the world to her effervescent beaches. In the north of the island, these are some of the most stunning and least

spoilt in the region. Unlike most other Caribbean islands, the Latin stamp has not been eradicated and as such, a playful Latino warmth prevails throughout, characterised by the language, food, music and general spirit of its people.

The DR - as Americans affectionately call her - has been colonised by the Yanks in addition to the Spanish, French, British and Dutch. Add to that the barbaric subjugation of African slaves to its shores, and the DR’s native evolution shines brightly with a glorious blend of races, creating a human rainbow of the most diverse and dazzling colourings in the Caribbean. It is therefore apt that I retreated for a no shoes required moment of pleasure, to a setting that can only be described as a slice of India in the tropics, but this time an infinitely more welcomed colonial invader! Balaji Palace takes its name from the man who commissioned the creation of this splendid, opulent edifice, renowned vascular surgeon Dr. Malur R. Balaji.

Hailing from Bangalore, the third largest city in Southern India, Dr. Balaji left his native country to study medicine and eventually settle in the US. In due course he found his own corner of paradise in the northern part of the DR, and began the process of building his dream - a place he could call home and from where he could easily escape to from his adopted New York. Taking eight years and USD 30 million to complete, Dr. Balaji’s home was eventually opened to the public in 2010 - a couple of years after enjoying it for his

private use - since he did not wish to see the property mostly empty throughout the year. His boutique villa on a grand scale is conveniently located for three international airports Santo Domingo, Puerto Plata and Samana - each between an hour and a half to two hours away, making Balaji Palace a fantastic long weekend option, especially when travelling in DR, Colombia or Florida.

Because it was originally built as someone’s home as opposed to hosting the public, walking into Balaji Palace is literally like being embraced. Every detail has a personal touch. Dr. Balaji has lovingly built a place that makes guests exhale their worries at the front door. The Palace is divided into three separate buildings, all a moments’ walk away from each other. A large atrium in the centre of the domed structure in the main house, bestows ever-changing patterns of light across grand pillars and intricate balconies. Each of the three floors comprises a total of eleven suites, featuring hand-carved beds and furniture, sensual Indian silks and throws, and huge stone and marble bathrooms. I would say the look is one of ‘graceful Raj.’ You can really inhale the sea breeze from every room.

Beautifully carved doors and mirrors, ornate light fittings and a dash of mirrored and pastel tiles, show off the artisan talent that was employed to add countless unique touches to the property. The Palace is a treasure trove of artistic expression, none more apparent than with the delicately sculpted Indian ladies on the light alcoves on the curving December 2015/January 2016 The Cultured Traveller 49 57

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staircases. I frequently smiled with joy at finding interesting and quirky artifacts scattered around. The suits of armour and antique telephone were just two things that could not have been more pertinent.

There are two cliff suites carved into the rocks on the seafront, each with their own small kitchens for those who would like to be more private or independent. A plantation-style house on the opposite side of the main property provides a further four rooms which can also be rented separately by groups or individuals. There is truly something for everyone here.

Attentive but non-intrusive staff ensured that my every request was met and delivered with nothing but infectious smiles. Kicking off my shoes on arrival, I gulped a refreshing melon juice offered with greedy gusto, which really was the most delicious I had ever tasted. The epicurean delights continued throughout my stay. Balaji Palace’s chef uses locally sourced organic produce, so every meal option comes from a very short seasonal menu, and every bite was nothing less than culinary splendor. It was an added bonus to watch local fishermen bring in their catch, which was on our plates within a couple of hours. Meals tasted as wholesome as they were succulent.

The location of the Palace makes it a little prohibitive to venture out and explore or shop as all there is to see is

verdant farmland, tropical palm trees and undeveloped coast.

For me this was bliss and basic for a vacation place where shoes are largely redundant. The ethereal ambience is further enhanced by the Disney-esque wildlife on the property.

Resident peacocks willingly show off their beauty, butterflies flirt wildly with colourful flowers, hermit crabs peek at you from under pretty shells, fish pirouette out of the aquamarine waters, cicadas and frogs serenade you at dinner, birds chorus you awake, baby dinosaurs play peek-a-boo across the grounds as neighbouring chickens curiously greet you. I can see why there are no televisions in the rooms. This is a place to reconnect with nature and yourself. Apparently there was a very good in-house spa and there’s talk of a gym being constructed, but with so much natural beauty all around, plus old school recreation such as board games, billiards, ping pong and cards…why bother? This is even before you even think about walking through exotic gardens down to the magnificent beach.

Time stood still as I watched the brightest stars on the darkest of skies, and fell asleep to the sound of the sea. Yet sadly - before I knew it - my shoes had to be put back on my feet and my divine time at the Palace was over. But I will most definitely return. Next time I may even wear one of the many outfits I didn’t get to dress up in - such was the relaxation I felt that nothing else but my sarong was necessary. www.thepalacedr.com

December 2015/January 2016 The Cultured Traveller 59

SPOTLIGHT

SANUR

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ith its balmy, palm-fringed beaches, lux accommodation, batik-filled boutiques and a wealth of cultural attractions, Sanur is a destination with some serious credentials. Once a sleepy fishing village nestled on Bali’s southeast coast, Sanur was put on the global map in 1906, as the landing site for the Dutch invasion. It reprised that role in World War II when Japanese forces landed there. Several decades on, Sanur was back to its tranquil self and by the 1980s was garnering a reputation as Bali’s first tourism hotspot. Big names such as Mick Jagger and Jerry Hall, Sting and Yoko Ono flocked to its sun-drenched shores to enjoy a secluded slice of paradise.

Yet despite its obvious attractions and high-flying fans, this relaxed retreat has remained relatively under the travel radar, with the bulk of tourists heading to the island’s other holiday hubs. But now this is changing and Sanur is enjoying something of a renaissance, as discerning travellers seek out less hectic alternatives to crowded Kuta and traffic-filled Seminyak.

There’s a lot to recommend in this gentile resort town, from its pretty beaches and lively water-sports scene, to a bustling town centre packed with fashionable boutiques and perfumed spas, topped off with a generous helping of culture thanks to plentiful local temples and a thriving art scene.

Sanur is also home to a wide range of places to stay, the speciality being beachfront luxury, with a number of attractive resorts gracing its coastline. Internationally branded 5* hotels are still something of a rarity in Sanur, but at the end of 2014 a new deluxe property arrived on the scene. Although 60 The Cultured Traveller December 2015/January 2016

Lucy Taylor discovered that the grande dame of Bali’s tourism scene is making a five star comeback

it opened in 2013 as Regent Bali, Canadian hotel group Fairmont took over management of Fairmont Sanur Beach Bali in December 2014. This is a beautifully designed resort, with a clean, elegant style and tasteful local touches, such as the intricate wooden screens dividing the lobby area, carved in the Kawyng motif: a tessellating floral pattern at one time used only for the clothing of Java’s royal families.

Guest rooms at Fairmont Sanur Beach Bali are a welcome respite from the Indonesian heat. Cool havens of glossy dark wood, they are accented with soft cream and muted blue furnishings, and decorated with polished driftwood sculptures. The highlight of the Fairmont Garden Suite we occupied, was without doubt the outdoor space, a huge covered area almost the same size as the room itself. It was the ideal space for gazing out onto the frangipani-filled garden below, and catching the last rays of sun tousling the tips of the palm trees. Those looking for an ultimate holiday experience should consider the Presidential Beachfront Villa, which comes with its own private entrance directly onto the sands, spectacular 180° vistas across the Indian Ocean, a private pool, spa treatment

room, steam room and obligatory expansive separate dining and living areas.

Whilst the hotel is just a minute’s walk from central Sanur and multiple dining options, the standard of food at the Fairmont is exceptionally good. Layang Layang is an all day dining restaurant with an Indonesian flavour. Guests are welcomed by the sonorous sounds of the 'gender' - a local instrument similar to a metal xylophone - and can choose from a buffet of local specialities or order à la carte.

Meanwhile the poolside Nyala Beach Club and Grill - a colonnaded restaurant spilling out onto a broad terrace overlooking the pool - offers a more international menu and is a lovely location for a lazy sundowner. Here you can drop into an oversized armchair, select from a cocktail list heavy with Balinese inspiration and fruity, tropical concoctions, and watch the poolside burners send flames dancing across the water, casting a gentle glow over the bright pink orchid sculpture by renowned British artist Marc Quinn (pictured).

Dinner at Nyala Beach Club and Grill was a refined Mediterranean treat, featuring classic dishes with a modern twist, prepared using local ingredients. The chilli crab was sweet and fresh, whilst the Carbonara Raviolo with Parmesan

ice cream was clever and delectable. Main courses of spring chicken and plump, pan-fried local Barramundi were beautifully cooked, satisfying and elegantly presented. For dedicated foodies, numerous cooking classes offer an insight into the local culinary heritage, most including a pre-class trip to Sanur market, an entrancing riot of noise and colour.

The only element that occasionally let down Fairmont Sanur Beach Bali - when we visited at least - were the staff.

Fairmont is renowned for its knowledgeable local employees, delivering service and insider information with a smile. Here, that attitude was definitely not present across the board, with several employees displaying a lacklustre attitude and even, upon occasion, a basic lack of knowledge about the hotel itself. This wasn’t a blanket problem at the resort - some employees were friendly, helpful and very well informed - but it was clear that more work was needed to bring the whole team up to scratch.

Once you have successfully secured a position by the hotel pool - an infinity affair with a stunning sea-view - you could well be tempted never to leave, but Sanur’s enticing centre is little more than a short walk away and most definitely worth a visit. Once out of the hotel’s sprawling

Situated on the northern shores of the Dead Sea, set an amazing 400 metres below sea level on the shores of the world’s deepest salt lake and in a land teeming with history.

Mövenpick Resort & Spa Dead Sea is an oasis of tranquility with its astonishing surroundings and offers guests a destination unlike any other in the world.

Mövenpick Resort & Spa Dead Sea Sweimeh, Dead Sea Road P.O. Box 815538, 11180 Amman, Jordan Phone +962 5 356 11 11, Fax +962 5 356 11 22 resort.deadsea.reservations@moevenpick.com www.movenpick.com Moevenpick.Resort.DeadSea MovenpickJo

www.movenpick.com

Remarkable and stunning.

SPEND Nogo Bali Ikat Center This well-established artisan store sells hand-woven Indonesian fabrics in various forms, from clothing to curtains. Staff are knowledgeable and happy to talk curious customers through the complex dying and weaving processes. www.nogobali.com

TASTE Massimo Run by the eponymous chef Massimo Sacco – a Bali resident for more than 20 years – this welcoming and unpretentious courtyard restaurant serves up huge wood-fired pizzas and flavoursome fresh pasta dishes, along with specialities from the chef’s home-region of Lecce. Booking is advised since there’s often a queue in the evenings. www.massimobali.com

manicured gardens, you’ll soon find yourself on the beachfront, where a 5km path leads strollers and cyclists past seaside bars, restaurants and spas. Turn up one of the inland roads and within a few minutes you’ll be in the main high street, a veritable Aladdin’s cave for the keen holiday shopper. Here a slew of stores sell everything from wooden carvings and sarongs made from local batik fabrics, to colourful artworks and delicate silver jewellery. As the destination has attracted more discerning travellers, so high-end shops have opened up to serve them. There are many stylish stores vending beautifully cut linens and naturally dyed silks, of a high quality to rival any fashion-led capital. By night, Sanur centre comes alive with numerous bars and restaurants, offering visitors a wealth of dining delights ranging from authentic Indonesian fare through to excellent Italian, German and French options, many of which are run by expats who’ve made the town their home.

Laden with delicious eateries, relaxing spas, plenty of activities and luxurious accommodation, the idyllic seaside town of Sanur is the perfect counter to Bali’s louder and brasher resorts. The key is to visit soon and enjoy it now before too many others recognise its understated appeal.

SIP Tandjung Sari Bali’s original boutique hotel, Tandjung Sari (which means ‘Cape of Flowers’), is where Mick Jagger and Jerry Hall got married. Make your way through the lush gardens to the beachfront bar and order sweet, fresh starfruit martinis and get some serious rockstar-like satisfaction! www.tandjungsari.com

SEE Pura Blanjong The Blanjong Temple, just to the south of Sanur, is the area’s most important religious site. As well as showcasing the traditional temple set-up on a grand scale, it’s home to Bali's oldest known artefact, an inscribed stone pillar - the Prasati Blanjong - dating back to the 10th Century.

PLAY Water Sports Sea-based activities abound in Sanur, where scuba-diving, snorkelling, fishing and boat trips are readily available. Take a stroll down the beach path and negotiate a deal with one of the numerous tour operators lined up along the sand.

RELAX Bali is famous for its blissful spa treatments and you can’t walk far into Sanur town centre without being offered a relaxing reflexology session or invigorating head massage. But if you’re after a more deluxe experience, visit the in-house spa at Fairmont Sanur Beach Bali, where expert therapists offer everything from a traditional Balinese full body massage to a complete holistic package. www.fairmont.com/sanur-bali/spa

STAY Fairmont Sanur Beach Bali Sanur’s newest luxury resort boasts elegant design and superb food set on an unbeatable beachfront location, just minutes from the town centre. This is a resort to suit every style of vacationer. www.fairmont.com/sanur-bali

December 2015/January 2016 The Cultured Traveller 63

TRAVELLER LOWDOWN Avid foodie and traveller, Gordon Hickey, advises to visit Doha before the world cup masses descend, to enjoy Qatar's charming capital at its best.

D

oha, Qatar. One of the newest cities in the world.

40 years ago it was a sandy fishing village on a barren peninsula jutting out into the Arabian Gulf.

Pearl fishing was what kept the small population ticking over. Fast forward to the present day and this sprawling metropolis is one of the fastest growing cities on the planet and top of the list when it comes to wealth per capita. The discovery of natural gas in their coastal waters, leapfrogged these traditionally Bedouin people out of their tents and into gleaming penthouses high above the desert below.

DOHA TOWER

Qatar isn't one of the most well known places on the planet but they are preparing to become centre stage, when the 2022 World Cup will be hosted by this petite nation. Endless wealth from their natural resources has Qatar dreaming. And their dreams are big.

Actually their dreams are huge. Spending some time in this city while still relatively undiscovered is a must, and with guaranteed sunshine 99% of the year, you’re certainly onto a winner if good weather is an essential ingredient of your trip.

Doha is relatively small so navigating the city is pretty easy. The main bulk of attractions are located along the corniche (waterfront), and although there is no established public transport system (they are in the throes of building a gleaming new metro system - phase 1 will be operational by the end of 2019), taxis are inexpensive and in abundance. However a more delightful way to get your bearings in the city, is from the upper level of an open-top double-decker Doha Bus, which ambles around Doha’s highlights at a leisurely pace (www.dohabus.com).

One of the first stops on any tour of Doha should be the Museum of Islamic Art (www.mia.org.qa). This magnificent building designed by much-celebrated architect I.M. Pei - rises on its own island just off the city’s waterfront corniche, and is the jewel in December 2015/January 2016 The Cultured Traveller 65

INDULGE AT Grand Hyatt Doha.

Celebrate unparalleled luxury at Grand Hyatt located on the shoreline of the West Bay Lagoon.

The hotel features balconies or terraces in all rooms, suites and villas showcasing breath-taking views of the Arabian Gulf.

The hotel offers extensive meeting and banquet facilities, a full-service business centre, the renowned Jaula Spa, a 400-metre private beach, indoor or outdoor pools and a broad selection of cuisines at our innovative outlets.

For reservations and more information call +974 4448 1234 Hyatt. You’re More Than Welcome.

GRAND HYATT DOHA West Bay Lagoon, P.O. Box 24010 Doha, State of Qatar Facebook.com/GrandHyattDoha | doha.grand.hyatt.com HYATT name, design and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. Š2015 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved Generic Ad TCT.indd 1

5/4/15 2:00 PM

MUSEUM OF ISLAMIC ART

MUSEUM OF ISLAMIC ART

"The discovery of natural gas in their coastal waters, leapfrogged these traditionally Bedouin people out of their tents and into gleaming penthouses high above the desert below."

Doha’s architectural crown. The structure is a powerful cubist composition of square and octagonal blocks stacked atop one another, culminating in a central tower. Inside 41,000 square feet of galleries are organised around a towering atrium capped by a dome. The MIA houses manuscripts, textiles, ceramics and other works mostly assembled over the last 20 years, and has emerged as one of the world’s most encyclopedic collections of Islamic art. At the very top of the museum is one of Doha’s finest restaurants, IDAM, Alain Ducasse’s first restaurant in the Middle East and winner of countless accolades. Here you can feast on French Mediterranean cuisine with an Arabic twist in a stunning dining room designed by Philippe Starck. IDAM’s 3-course set lunch at QR200 (roughly EUR50) is good value for such a dramatic and memorable culinary experience (www.alain-ducasse.com).

One thing you will notice while in Doha, is its adventurous attitude towards building statement properties; the skyline rivals those of New York and Hong Kong. Some of the structures have won awards, notably the cylindrical Doha Tower, which won the Best Tall Building Worldwide award in 2012. To get a peak into Qatar’s future, visit the Msheireb Enrichment Centre (www.msheireb.com) at the other end of the corniche, close to the Sheraton hotel. Here you can get a glimpse of the mammoth projects the reigning Emir has in store for his nation,and wonder at the infrastructural projects in the pipeline. With all the exploring you’re bound to work up an appetite, and Doha is one of the best places to get a unique flavour of the world. Apart from flying, eating is highest on my list of favourite things to do, and in Doha I was spoilt for choice. A good place to fill up on great food is Souq Waqif. This marketplace is bursting with restaurants to suit every palette. I could happily eat Middle Eastern cuisine daily and Damasca One restaurant is my first recommendation (+974 4475 9088). Here you can sample some of the finest cuts of grilled meats, and dip them into an array of hummus, moutabels, labnehs and baba ganoushes. My favourite dish of the region is muhammara, a traditional spread that originates from Syria and is made from a blend of red peppers, walnuts, olive oil, pomegranate and chilli. It resembles an exotic, aromatic hummus and it is irresistible, so be ready to fight over who gets to scrape the bowl.

Once you’ve had your fill of delicious foods, take a stroll around the souk for souvenir, carpet and traditional garment shopping.

This is also the place to try the local coffee or karak (sweet tea).

Sip, sit, watch the world go by and marvel at the locals in their crisp white dishdashas and flowing black abayas. Take a breather and celebrate the fact you’re in one of the newest and fastest growing cities in the world.

It’s worth mentioning that Doha has restaurants to cater to every budget and all tastes. Nearly a quarter of Qatar’s residents hail from India and I can honestly say that the best curry I’ve ever tasted was in Doha, not India. Nestled in a small street at the beginning of the busy Salwa Road is Homeland Restaurant (+974 4441 9789). This brightly lit, canteen-style eatery is one of the cheapest - yet tastiest - establishments to sample Hyderabadi style dishes in the city. A curry, rice, naan bread and soft drink will set you back about EUR4. If you’re looking for something a little more extravagant, being in one of the world’s richest capitals, naturally there is a wealth of choice. Doha is home to some of the culinary world’s top restaurant brands, including Nobu, Hakkasan, Gordon Ramsay and more, and waiting times are substantially shorter than London or New York. These high-end eateries are some of the only places you can have an alcoholic tipple with your meal, as Qatar is a strict Muslim country and alcohol is only available within a five-star hotel. My favourite destination restaurants in the city are Isaan at Grand Hyatt Doha (+974 4448 1250), Spice Market at W Doha (+974 4453 5000) and Hakkasan at The St. Regis Doha (+974 4446 0170). As Doha food experiences go, I have saved the best ‘til last. If you happen to be passing through Doha on a Friday, brunch is an absolute must.

Dress in your finest (yet loosest) clothing and indulge in a 4-hour food and drink fest commencing just after midday. These all-inclusive brunches cost anywhere between EUR80 - EUR120 depending on the hosting hotel. Fill up on lobster, foie gras, champagne, more lobster, Sunday roast, sushi, more champagne, and do as the ex pat population do: eat, drink and be merry. One of the city’s best is The Grill’s award-winning brunch at Grand Hyatt Doha (+974 4448 1240). Visit www.diningindoha.com for a full rundown of the decadent brunches every Friday afternoon.

December 2015/January 2016 The Cultured Traveller 67

After so much eating and exploring you are going to need some downtime and R&R. Luckily Doha is littered with some of the best spas in the world. The Six Senses Spa at Sharq Village (+974 4425 6999) is out of this world. Unwind with treatments in a traditionally styled location, take a dip in the pool and enjoy lunch on the terrace overlooking Doha Bay. At the other end of the city is Jaula Spa at Grand Hyatt Doha, which holds the accolade of winning the World Luxury Spa Awards in Qatar in 2014 and 2015 (+ 974 4448 1056). If yoga is more your thing, check out Yama Yoga Studios in Asas Towers (www.yamayogastudios.com). Bhanu Bhatnagar is one of Doha’s most respected teachers and he’ll calmly bend and contort your body until you’re blissfully stretched. Doha has plenty more to offer in terms of leisure activities visit www.eventsdoha.com for details.

So with exploring, eating and relaxing out of the way, it’s now time for some fun. You may be under the illusion that Doha is a sleepy city by night because of alcohol restrictions, but this is simply not the case. In fact Doha has a thriving nightlife and clubbing scene, and a constant stream of world-renowned DJs keep the expat community (and some locals) entertained into the wee hours, on most nights of the week. The weekend begins after work on Thursday, which is when Doha’s young, vibrant and stylish revelers come out to play. Global DJ superstars Calvin Harris, Bob Sinclar and Mark Ronson, amongst others, have all played in Doha recently. There is a very active jazz and swing music culture, with a multitude of regular jazz nights around the city, and the dedicated Jazz at Lincoln Center Doha club at the scene’s epicenter (www.jalcdoha.com) boasting live performances curated by world renowned Jazz at Lincoln Center artists. If house music is more your tempo and you wanna dance, head to Hed Kandi at Strata (+974 4015 8888), Doha's highest nightlife venue situated 56 floors above the city. Here you’ll enjoy great music and spectacular views to match.

Other funky bars to check out include Sky View at La Cigale Hotel (www.lacigalehotel.com), Wahm at W Doha Hotel (www.whoteldoha.com) and The Rooftop at The St. Regis Doha (www.stregisdoha.com).

There are plenty of places to rest your head in Doha. New hotels continually pop up and again cater to every budget. Most of the high end, well known hotel chains are located in West Bay. Here you'll find hotels such as the Kempinski, W Hotel, Intercontinental, Four Seasons and Hilton, nestled amongst some of the architectural gems I spoke of earlier. In West Bay Lagoon you’ll find the very popular Grand Hyatt Doha Hotel set in 27 lush acres, across the road from swanky Lagoona Mall (www.lagoonamall.com), an upscale shopping destination where you can buy everything from an iPhone to a piano!

Being in a modern bustling city, you tend to forget that geographically you are standing in one of the hottest,driest, most barren places on our planet (unless it’s between June to September when the heat is unbelievable). Book a local driver to bring you out to the desert and marvel at the sandy wilderness that is only a 40-minute drive from Hamad International Airport. Tours of the dunes can be organised at an easy pace, but if you're feeling adventurous and want to be a modern-day Lawrence of Arabia, try your hand at dune bashing, which is effectively racing up and down massive sand dunes in 4x4s. This heart -stopping way to see the desert will be one adventure you won't forget in a hurry. Also worth visiting is the Inland Sea, which is a great place to catch your breath again. This is one of the few places on earth where sloping sand dunes meet the waves of the Arabian Gulf. Contact Arabian Adventures Qatar for an inland Qatari adventure (www.arabianadventureqatar.net).

Doha has so very much to offer that there is just too much to fit into one article.

It’s not as commercial as Dubai or as developed as Abu Dhabi, and has managed to hold onto much of its historical identity. Being more compact than UAE cities gives Doha an endearing, village-like charm. Though things are changing fast. My advice is to visit before the World Cup masses descend, to truly enjoy Qatar's bustling and charming capital at it’s best.

68

" Doha has a thriving nightlife and

SOUQ WAQIF

clubbing scene, and a constant stream of world-renowned DJs keep the expat community entertained into the wee hours, on most nights of the week."

70

TASTE &SI P EDVARD VIENNA

Food Atmosphere

V

ienna abounds in cafes and traditional restaurants that serve classic Austrian and middle European home cooking with panache and style.

Specialties like Wiener schnitzel, goulash, apple strudel and Sachertorte never fail to please. The settings for such old standards are typically authentically staged family run restaurants with long and established pedigrees. The interiors - oftentimes steeped in mid 19th and turn of the century Art Nouveau design - can alone warrant a visit. Service is professional, dignified and warm.

However, increasingly a new fresh crop of chefs and restaurants are claiming their place in the Vienna foodie scene. These restaurants favor cleaner presentations, locally sourced ingredients, dishes with a crisper contemporary edge and more modern interiors, which all appeal to a more cultured clientele. Edvard has set the bar for such modern Viennese fine dining and provides a superb experience in a warm and intimate setting.

Located on the Schottenring part of Vienna’s famous Ringstrasse, Edvard is located within the luxurious

A T STE transformed the breads into an important part of the dinner ritual to be savored.

The core of any dining experience is, of course, the food, which Edvard delivers brilliantly. Executive chef, Anton Pozeg, believes in using seasonal and mostly local products of the best quality and a well-curated list of ingredients, to achieve an innovative and modern menu.

In a city where variations of Austrian cuisine are the norm, Edvard looks to the Mediterranean for inspiration.

PARMESAN FAGOTINI PANCETTA

Palais Hansen Kempinski hotel. Open since 2014, Edvard has quickly established itself as one of the top fine dining experiences in Vienna. Upon entering Edvard - either from the street or via the hotel -one immediately feels at ease and welcome. Restaurant manager, Lukas, greeted me with a warm open smile and just the right amount of fuss. Discreet and warm do not usually go hand and hand; at Edvard, they do. The dining area is three, spacious and handsome interconnecting rooms. With a capacity for just 42 diners, the rooms at once felt intimate and comfortable to me. Mostly in shades of white with lime green accents and softened by well-designed lighting, the décor is elegant and understated. The mood is sophisticated and relaxed.

Soon after I was seated, a parade of beautifully presented amuse-bouche were delivered in succession.

A glass of champagne was offered. Delicious and warm sourdough breads arrived, baked exclusively for the restaurant by Joseph, one of the best bakeries in Vienna. Saffron and marigold blossom butter 72 The Cultured Traveller December 2015/January 2016

There are 4-course and 7-course tasting menus as well as the à la carte menu, and all menus change with the seasons. In addition to keeping things fresh and exciting, the change in menu also gives a reason to return for another Edvard evening.

My starter of duck liver pate, with piped beetroot puree and hot liver quickly pan-fried and then baked in salt and ginger and served on toasted brioche, was a triumph. I didn’t want it to end, cutting ever smaller pieces of brioche with which to accompany the foie gras in the hope of making it last a tiny bit longer. For my main course, I opted for medallions of locally sourced lamb, encrusted in herbs and mustard seeds, accompanied with eggplant caviar and Tzatziki foam. The presentation and taste were perfect. Dessert was orange zest and ginger accented chocolate mousse, as well as a mini ice cream sandwich served with blackberries on a blackberry glaze.

Vienna is an excellent place to discover or deepen one’s knowledge of Austrian wines. The country has

& SI P established itself as one of the more exclusive wine producers, not produced for the mass market, with the focus on high quality, particularly the Gruner Valley for dry whites. Austrian dessert wines are world renowned.

Edvard’s sommelier, Marcel, was on hand throughout the meal to guide me through the restaurant’s wine list, which was presented on an iPad. The digital format allows diners to filter wines by grape, region and taste, as well as to educate more thoroughly about the vintages stocked. Edvard serves an impressive 60 wines by the

glass, allowing everyone at the table to choose wines per course or as their heart desires. For a special occasion, Edvard’s list includes Austrian wineries that produce only a few hundred cases per year.

The sense of occasion at Edvard is enhanced by the fact that the restaurant is just open for dinner. Moreover, there are no set seating times. The table is yours for the night, whatever time you decide to dine. There is no need to hurry. And why would you want to? The food is excellent - innovative, expertly presented and cooked to perfection - and begs to be lingered over and relished to the max. The service strikes the perfect chord between professional and personal. Edvard proves that a restaurant can have a Michelin star without being formal or stuffy, yet at the same time elegant and delivering a sense of occasion. Coupled with Edvard’s relaxed and customer-focused approach to fine dining, the impeccable service and exciting food are what make Edvard a compelling restaurant destination in Vienna.

BEEF, BELL-PEPPER, WILD HERBS

EDVARD

Food: Atmosphere:

Executive chef: Anton Pozeg Address: Schottenring 24, 1010 Vienna, Austria Telephone: +43 1 236 1000 8070 Email: edvard.vienna@kempinski.com Website: www.kempinski.com/vienna Cuisine: Seasonal Contemporary Lunch: Closed Dinner: 18:00 - 22:00 Dinner price: Average main course EUR36

Ideal meal: 7-course-degustation menu EUR119.

Paired wines EUR89 Reservations: Essential Wheelchair access: Yes Children: Under 14 not admitted. No kids menu.

Credit cards: All major Parking: Free valet Reviewed by: Alex Benasuli on 10 October 2015 for dinner.

Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.

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TASTE &SI P AQUA NUEVA LONDON

Food Atmosphere

I

f we’re to be perfectly honest, when it comes to eating out in Central London, Oxford Circus is a destination we more readily associate with countless fast food unmentionables one is occasionally forced to nip into once a year, whilst heroically attempting to evade dawdling tourists and placard wavers during the dreaded Christmas shop. It is most certainly not - with one or two notable exceptions - an area synonymous with fine dining. Yet, with merely one judicious right hand turn from the very epicenter of consumerist hell, barely off the beaten track at all, there is a rather subdued and unassuming doorway through which can be found a rather glorious oasis of calm and gastronomic delight assuming you know which turn to take, of course.

On the rainy November night on which we arrived, the only light catching this enigmatic entrance was the reflected amber glow coming from the garish, illuminated “CATS” marquee outside the Palladium Theatre across the street. Once inside, a smiling-if-saturnine doorman politely checked our bags and ushered us into an

elevator to the top floor. The whole effect was somewhat akin to walking into a spy movie, or perhaps the gateway between London life and one of Neil Gaiman’s short stories, and the location is certainly a brave choice for any establishment that expects actual patrons to frequent it at any point, let alone regularly. Yet such is Aqua’s international reputation for excellence, that they’ve no need to shout their whereabouts from the rooftops. On the subject of which, it is perhaps the two gorgeous, prime roof terraces overlooking London’s cinematic skyline that have placed both Aqua Nueva and its twin sibling Aqua Kyoto firmly on the radar of London’s dining cognoscenti since it first opened back in 2009. However, on the chilly autumnal night we visited, it was not the Mary Poppins views we came to see. No and even though we can honestly say we really didn’t feel it needed it - designer Robert Angell has created a sumptuous refit and reimagining of Aqua Nueva for 2015. The new look restaurant quietly exudes an effortless class and hushed elegance many pretenders aspire to, but precious few achieve.

TM

A T STE Due to the somewhat labyrinthine nature of the interconnected venues, I was pleased to see that the first thing that demanded my undivided attention was still the somewhat unnerving, life-sized bull statue, eternally charging headlong at you down a nightclub-dark corridor, setting the tone viscerally for the deeply Spanish flavour of the experience ahead. He too has had a slight makeover, and is now resplendent in a fresh royal blue coat of paint - a hue that suits him very well.

Once inside the restaurant, it really is all change from the ground up. The floors are now woven with an intricate

black and cream lattice mosaic, perhaps more evocative of an intimate Spanish favela than a setting as chic and cosmopolitan as this. The bar has become a freestanding island bustling with the capital’s bright and beautiful on all sides, above which hangs an eye-catching bespoke golden chandelier. Stop by to sample one of the many delightful signature cocktails dreamt up by bar manager Luca Missaglia before taking your seats for dinner - the passion fruit-based On the way to Saronno is every bit as exotic and refreshing as its colourful name suggests.

Our Seating Times Are 6 P.M To 8 P.M 8.30 P.M. Onwards 7 P.M. To 9 P.M 9.15 P.M. Onwards Open Daily Lunch 12 Noon to 3 P.M. | Dinner 6 P.M. to 11 P.M. Closed on Poya Days December 24th, January 23rd 2016 Old Dutch Hospital, Colombo, Sri Lanka 011 234 CRAB (2722) | reservations@ministryofcrab.com www.ministryofcrab.com

The ceiling too has been artfully redesigned into a captivating, elliptical curve that runs the length of the dining area. It’s at once reminiscent of both the inside of a smoked whisky barrel and a rather beautifully appointed spaceship. Not an easy double-act to pull off, but once again Aqua Nueva walks the tightrope between these two opposing forces with the agile grace of a ballerina. Once we took to our intimate banquette seating below this arresting feature, it was at this point that the real magic began. Executive chef, Alberto Hernandez, has created a brand new menu that boldly

& SI P encompasses both the traditional and the more avant-garde, and this being a dining experience that has Spain at its castanet-beating heart, we decide to go that most Hispanic of routes, and sample the tapas.

Plate after plate (or more accurately, slate after slate) of culinary delights were brought forth to our increasing gastronomic amazement. Our delightful server, Patricia, was both authentically Spanish and extremely knowledgeable - a most welcome combination - and only too eager to share her contagious enthusiasm for the menu with us. Where my friends and I might have been

GRILLED HAND-DIVED SCALLOPS, SERVED WITH SAN SEBASTIAN CRAB GRATIN

inclined to stick with the classics (the padrón peppers were indeed exquisite, and it’s more or less a given that the jamón ibérico is always a mouth-watering must), she made an impassioned plea for us to step out of our collective comfort zone and sample some of the more adventurous elements on offer, and who were we to argue. The Pulpo a la gallega con su empanada consisted of a divinely presented row of octopus cuts standing proud atop a light pastry base, looking somewhat reminiscent of an organic ocean liner. Meanwhile the Rabo de toro marinado - oxtail marinated for a full 24 hours - was not something I would ordinarily lean toward, but it arrived looking every inch a steaming slice of warmed chocolate gateau, and the taste, whilst decidedly savoury, was every bit as creamy and fall-apart-on-your-tongue perfect.

Since one of our party stuck to seafood, the waitress selected - quite excellently - a delightfully crisp and fruity bottle of 2013 Albariño, Bodegas Castro Martin, which deftly offset the heady cornucopia of flavours on the table.

Pierre Koffman Eileen Atkins

Mick Jagger

Marianne Faithfull

Dennis Potter

Sienna Miller Peter Blake Danny La Rue

The Beatles Sam Smith Marco Pierre White Nigel Havers

Eartha Kit Imelda Staunton

Kenneth Halliwell

Joe OrtonPeter CookElton John

Paloma Faith Coco Chanel Beryl Cook

Francis Bacon

Frankie Howard

Dudley Moore

Lucien Freud Diana Judi Dench General de Gualle

Ella Fitzgerald Janis Joplin

Laurence Olivier

Edward Heath Cleo Laine

Stephen Fry Frank Sinatra

A SoHo Institution Since 1927 Restaurant & Club Privé

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Monday to Sunday: All day until 1am

• 48 Greek Street London W1D 4EF Telephone 020 7494 1318 www.lescargotrestaurant.co.uk

Also worthy of note amongst the dishes sampled, were quite possibly the most melt-in-your-mouth pristine croquetas I had ever tasted; Salmonete con arroz negro hojaldrado y ali-oli - heavenly little fillets of red mullet with alioli, served on asymmetrically cut pastry parcels of black ink rice; plus the night’s overall winner for everyone around the table, the Vieiras con txangurro - absolutely breathtaking scallops, served with San Sebastian crab gratin. These are not to be missed.

There was the occasional slight misfire here and there.

The patatas bravas have undergone such a seismic culinary overhaul that they appeared to have simply become basic thick-cut chips, and personally I found the soft poached egg with chorizo, pancetta and fried potatoes a touch on the heavy side. But really, these were very minor quibbles in an otherwise excellent and constantly entertaining dining experience.

Amazingly, between us we managed to find the tiniest sliver of room left to sample a dessert or two, and if you visit Aqua Nueva I heartily suggest you do the same.

You’d be forgiven for overlooking the Pan con chocolate y aceite, which rather unflatteringly describes itself as “chocolate, bread and olive oil”, but do so at your peril because ours arrived looking far more glamorous than it sounded - and with an opulent taste to match. The other big hit at our table was the Arroz con leche al limoncillo y sopa de moritas de verano, a lemongrass rice pudding with summer blackberry, which literally came with wings. This cultured traveller was already quite a fan of Aqua Nueva, but the recent upgrade has really placed it right back at the top of my destination eateries in London. Excellent.

Click here to watch Creating The New Aqua Nueva

CHOCOLATE, BREAD & OLIVE OIL

AQUA NUEVA Food: Atmosphere:

Executive chef: Alberto Hernandez Address: 5th Floor, 240 Regent Street (Entrance 30 Argyll Street), London W1B 3BR, UK Telephone: +44 (0) 20 7478 0540 Email: reservations@aqua-london.com Website: www.aquanueva.co.uk Cuisine: Spanish Lunch: 12:00 - 14:45 (Monday - Saturday) Dinner: 18:00 - 22:30 (Monday - Wednesday). 18:00 - 23:00 (Thursday - Saturday).

Sunday: 12:00 - 20:30 continuous service. Set menu of 4 dishes and a cocktail GBP45.

Lunch price: Set lunch of 4 small plates GBP21.

Dinner price: Sharing plates for 2 - 3 persons around GBP80 (total) excluding drinks.

Ideal meal: Terrina de castañas trufada, raviolis de setas, calabaza cítrica (GBP11.50). Vieiras con txangurro (GBP13). Salmonete con arroz negro hojaldrado y ali-oli (GBP11.50). Secreto con patatas ali-oli (GBP10.50). Arroz meloso de pichón y setas (GBP 13.50).

Bavarese de chocolate blanco, cerezas y perfume de rosas (GBP6.50). Pan con chocolate y aceite (GBP7.50).

Wheelchair access: Yes Children: No kids menu Credit Cards: All major Parking: No Reviewed by: Julien James Davis on 16 November 2015 for dinner.

Ratings range from zero to five stars and reflect the reviewer’s feedback about the food and service, and separately the atmosphere in the dining room.

December 2015/January 2016 The Cultured Traveller 79

NANA MOUSKOURI

PHOTOGRAPHED BY KATE BARRY

KALIA MICHAELIDES INTERVIEWED WORLD-FAMOUS GREEK SINGER, UNICEF GOODWILL AMBASSADOR AND FORMER MEMBER OF THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT, NANA MOUSKOURI, WHO IS STILL TOURING AND PERFORMING AT 81

80

music& NIGHT LIFE

What is your personal definition of music?

Music is an endless source of inspiration, emotions, creation and freedom. Music has many faces - it recreates itself constantly. One should approach music with humility, love and above all, respect.

When young Nana Mouskouri received her first ever prize back in 1959, did she ever imagine that she would become such a prolific singer and a musical legend?

Of course I was happy and proud, but my need was to sing, and my next step was to learn more and sing better. I never thought I would come this far. It was an unexpected dream.

You have collaborated with many iconic figures in the music industry worldwide. Which influenced you most?

Composer Manos Hadjidakis and poet Nikos Gatsos, with their music and words, first gave me an identity as a Greek singer. Before then, I studied classical music and singing at the Conservatoire. I grew up listening to gospel by Mahalia Jackson, jazz

by Ella Fitzgerald and Nat King Cole, and rock ’n’ roll

by Elvis Presley.

Is there anyone you consider to be a mentor and why?

Quincy Jones first for music, respect and beliefs. Harry Belafonte for stage performances and mentoring me to learn different repertoires. Michel Legrand for his unique style and talent as a musician. Manos Hadjidakis and Nikos Gatsos for their poetical direction, optimism, truth and depth. Quincy once told me that being a good singer in my own language would make me better in other languages.

Of all the styles of music you perform, is there one style you identify with most?

I believe folk rock ballads suit me like Greek songs. I love singer-songwriters like Joan Baez, Bob Dylan, Leonard Cohen, Joni Mitchell and many others. I loved and still do - Maria Callas. I loved the 70s - when I came to Europe - and The Rolling Stones and The Beatles.

I grew up listening to gospel by Mahalia Jackson, jazz by Ella Fitzgerald and Nat King Cole, and rock ’n’ roll by Elvis Presley.

Who writes your songs?

Some are written for me by artist friends. Some I find through people I admire.

You have sung duets with many artists. Is there someone you would still like to perform with?

A duet means sharing musical emotions and creating harmony with another artist. Both have to open to the other and become one when creating music. I have been lucky to sing with Charles Aznavour, Harry Belafonte, Julio Iglesias, Johnny Mathis and Joan Baez, and shared many wonderful moments with these talented artists. I would like to sing with Rufus Wainwright. I would have loved to sing with Amy Winehouse and Whitney Houston.

What has been your biggest professional challenge to date?

My whole life, surviving in the international musical world, has been a professional challenge. Every moment has been important - whether learning small or large lessons and has brought me here and created who I am today.

What has been your most memorable career highlight to date?

Working with exceptional musicians at the very beginning was my first career highlight. Then my 82 The Cultured Traveller December 2015/January 2016

concerts… my first Royal Albert Hall, L'Olympia Bruno Coquatrix in Paris, L'Opéra de Paris, Berliner Philarmonie, New York’s Carnegie Hall, Washington’s Lincoln Theatre, Sydney’s Opera House and above all others, my first concert in 1964 at Athens’ Odeon of Herodes Atticus in the shadow of the Parthenon. I must add that, on a personal note, the highlight of my life was to mother two children, of whom I am so very proud.

You have recorded more than 2000 songs. Is there one special song which resonates with you?

Hartino To Fengaraki, Plaisir D’Amour, Amazing Grace and Je Chante Avec Toi Liberté are all very personal for me.

How did your 1986 hit single “Only Love” change your life?

It first went to number 1 in France, then England, Germany, Spain and Portugal. I believe it was an opportunity for a younger audience to hear me. It changed my life in that I worked harder to learn and go further.

You have travelled the world and stayed in many hotels. Which hotel is your favourite and why?

Is there a particular place in Greece that is special to you?

I have stayed in many wonderful hotels but I prefer smaller, friendly, more personal hotels, situated in locations close to the centre of town, where I can stay with my team when performing a concert.

Perhaps Athens, although I love the islands. I love everything about Greece. I grew up in Athens during WW2 and then the civil war. I love Corfu - the island my mother came from - and Agios Petros Kynourias, the village my father came from.

Do you have a favourite holiday destination and please tell us what makes it special to you?

Becoming a goodwill I always holiday in Greece since my home is there, close to the sea. This is my favourite place because I spend so much time in hotels.

You have been living abroad for the majority of your life. Do you still consider Greece home?

ambassador for UNICEF was a great privilege, perhaps one of the most valuable parts of my life.

I am and will always be Greek. A European Greek, I say this in a good way. Many countries in Europe welcomed and adopted me as a Greek singer, and I grew up across Europe singing in many languages. I have been living between France, Germany, England and Switzerland but feel at home everywhere.

Do you still have connections with Crete?

Yes, I still have many friends there.

Also my godmother is from Crete.

As a UNICEF Goodwill Ambassador you have travelled to many underprivileged countries. How would you describe this experience?

Becoming a goodwill ambassador for UNICEF was a great privilege, perhaps one of the most valuable parts of my life. I was fortunate not only to experience and share emotions and hard work with UNICEF workers, but also to drive projects for children, in order to give them a future and more dignified lives. It felt like I gave out some of the love I have received in my life. I feel honoured to be working with UNICEF.

After serving five years as a member of the European Parliament, what triggered your decision to resign?

PHOTOGRAPHED BY DINOS DIAMANTOPOULOS

I thought I could help my country get closer to Europe. I tried my best, but realised that politics is not my forte. I believe in peace, love, hope and unity.

Your daughter Lenou is also a successful artist in her own right. Since both of Lenou’s parents are musicians, in what way would you say each of you influenced her musically?

Lenou chose the best way she knew to express herself and was very little influenced by her parents. She listened to the music of her time, developed her own distinctive style and has a beautiful voice.

How do you relax and where in the world?

I relax at home, in the company of my husband, listening to music. Summers are spent in Athens. Winters are spent in Geneva or Paris. www.nanamouskouri.net

84

GLOBETROTTER

DESIGNER TO THE STARS AND WELSH SUCCESS STORY, JULIEN MACDONALD OBE, TALKS EXCLUSIVELY TO THE CULTURED TRAVELLER ABOUT HIS PATH TO INTERNATIONAL FASHION GREATNESS, HIS FAVOURITE PLACES TO HOLIDAY & WHAT HE SIMPLY CANNOT TRAVEL WITHOUT

How did your love affair with fashion begin?

I’ve always had a passion for fashion. As a young boy I would always wear flamboyant clothes. It was during my time at Cardiff School of Art & Design that I fell in love with decorative textiles. Soon my passion turned from fashion to textile design, with knitwear being my favourite medium.

Over the years many celebrities have been named fashion icons, including Jackie Onassis, Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly. Which fashion icon, if she or he were alive today, would you have liked to tie with one of your collections?

I’ve always been a huge fan of Marilyn Monroe. If she were alive today she would be my fashion icon. I loved her sense of glamour and style, whilst at the same time always being so chic and sophisticated.

You aspired to be a dancer, instead you followed a path to fashion. How did this change of heart happen?

As a young boy my mother used to send me to tap and ballet lessons, you could say I was like a young Billy Elliot. However whilst I loved dance but it was not what I really wanted to do. I dreamed of being an artist or pop star - Boy George and Culture Club influenced me greatly.

made two black biased-cut lace knitted dresses. At the time I was very good friends with Isabella Blow and Philip Treacy. Isabella gave me two pairs of Manolo Blahnik shoes and Philip gave me two evening hats, so I styled my dresses with expensive accessories. Since Karl was the judge I had the pleasure of meeting him, he loved my designs and named me the winner of the competition. The prize was to work with him that summer in Paris.

Would you say that success came easy to Julien Macdonald?

Success never comes easy. You must always learn from your mistakes and never forget true family values.

What are your favourite materials and components to use when designing one of your famous gowns, and what’s the most lavish frock you have ever created and who wore it?

I love using amazing embellishments on my dresses and use a lot of Swarovski crystals and wonderful beads from all over the world. Everyone needs a fabulous black dress, and I created one that Kate Beckinsale wore to the Vanity Fair Oscars party. It’s an amazing dress, embellished with thousands of black Swarovski crystals.

From London’s Royal College of Art to head knitwear Which fashion designer do you most admire and why? designer at Chanel. Please describe the moment Karl I have always been a huge fan of Chanel. When I was Lagerfeld approached you and what it meant to you. 23 I had an incredible opportunity to work closely with During our course we were given a brief to design a wardrobe for a typical Karl Lagerfeld customer and I

Karl Lagerfeld when I became his protégé and Chanel’s knitwear designer. To me Chanel is elegant and

timeless and never goes out of fashion. Karl Lagerfeld is a fashion legend.

From where do you derive your inspiration to create a new collection?

My inspiration for all of my collections comes from my love of travel. I’m constantly searching the world for inspiration, whether it is Miami, Bali, Las Vegas or Russia. I also visit many exhibitions in my home city of London, my favourite being the V&A Museum.

Tell us about your new menswear collection.

have all been spotted at my show. The show is always dramatic and fun for anyone attending. The atmosphere is electric and the anticipation is high as people wait for the models to strut down the runway in my latest collection.

What’s the most beautiful destination you’ve ever visited?

I have visited many beautiful destinations but I wouldn’t say that one of them was top. My favourite places to visit are St Petersburg, Bali and Florence, but there are still many places I would love to visit, including Japan and Buenos Aires.

It was always a passion of mine to design a menswear collection and I felt the time was right for Spring Summer 2016. Over the past five years, there has been a Do you have any tips for keeping up appearances on massive progression within menswear, which is a long-haul journey? particularly cutting edge and exciting in London.

Whenever I travel I always take my Elemis Hydra-Balance Day Cream and Hydra-Nourish Night Tell us about one of your most creative and fun Cream. Another thing I like to do is use lavender room mist on my pillow when I’m sleeping since it helps me fashion collaborations. to relax. I also have a fabulous Bottega Veneta face mask I have a fantastic relationship with Debenhams. My which I never leave home designs are in more than 200 without when travelling. stores worldwide.

Debenhams allows my What’s your favourite hotel customers to buy into the Julien Macdonald brand at in the world and why? high street prices via Star by I have so many favourite Julien Macdonald. I design hotels it’s difficult to pick womenswear, girlswear and just one. In Paris it would homewares and all these have to be The Ritz. In products can be bought Miami I’d say Soho House or under one roof at The Edition. My favourite Debenhams. hotel in Mykonos is the Theoxenia.

Where do you go to relax?

Quite honestly I love anywhere hot. I recently went to Frégate Island in the Seychelles, absolutely loved it and it has already become one of my favourite holiday destinations.

What's top of your travel hot list - somewhere you haven't visited yet?

What do you like to bring back from your travels?

Are you a fan of winter sports and what’s your favourite ski resort?

When I go travelling I always explore the local culture and visit art exhibitions, galleries, churches and street markets. This is where I find new inspiration for my collections. I am always taking photos and buying antiques or fabulous antique textiles.

What do you never leave home without when embarking on a vacation?

I always travel with my black cashmere tracksuit and blanket. I get changed as soon as I board a flight. These are my travel essentials and I take them everywhere.

What elements can guests at a Julien Macdonald runway show always expect to see and experience?

My shows always attract a celebrity packed front row.

Kylie, Mick Jagger, Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss 86 The Cultured Traveller December 2015/January 2016

I’ve always wanted to visit Australia. Japan is also somewhere I would love to visit.

I am a huge fan of winter sports and ski every year. I particularly love Gstaad in the Bernese Oberland region of the Swiss Alps.

Do you have a favourite hotel spa anywhere in the world?

The Maia Spa at the Fusion Maia resort in Da Nang, Vietnam. It is simply amazing.

What is your number one fashion travel tip?

Always travel with a great bag, I have a selection of personalised luggage from Goyard - the famous French malletier and trunk and bag-makers of the most exclusive luggage in the world. www.julienmacdonald.com

The holiday season is upon us, along with the big question, “What gifts do I buy?” Luckily, with online shopping at our fingertips and international shipping becoming more mainstream, we can access global products from the comfort of our homes. Whether we want to replenish our favourite little luxuries, discover something outrageous, or find that special gift for a loved one, they can be delivered to our doorstep, beautifully gift-wrapped, with just the click of a mouse or a tap on your smartphone.

For Him

Farheen Allsopp, Fashion Guru

SHAVING KIT A natural, essential oil-based starter kit for the perfect shave, consisting of pre shave oil, shaving cream, after shave balm and shaving brush. Free of parabens, phthalates and sulphates, this is the ideal gift for a man with sensitive skin, razor burns or a tough beard.

USD30 WWW.SEPHORA.COM

SMYTHSON TRAVEL WATCH ROLL This handy watch roll, made with brown printed calf leather with a caramel suede lining, ensures that prized watches are well protected in style. An ideal gift for a sophisticated male globetrotter, it is part of Smythson’s 2015/2016 Mara Collection.

GBP350 WWW.SMYTHSON.COM

BACKGAMMON SET This lacquered backgammon set is a fabulously bright combination of function and funky design.

It folds into a chic, bright box and looks great open or closed, adding a touch of panache to any home.

USD395 WWW.JONATHANADLER.COM

ROBINSON PELHAM CUFFLINKS Good things come in small packages, which is certainly true of these silver cufflinks with blue and black enamel rounds. From the jewellers who made the Duchess of Cambridge’s wedding earrings, they are the epitome of cool sophistication and are available to order online.

GBP225 WWW.ROBINSONPELHAM.COM

L’ATELIER CORKSCREW If James Bond had to open wine bottles, he would choose this beautiful Oeno wood corkscrew by L’Atelier du Vin. Made from chromed metal and solid walnut, it makes the uncorking of every bottle seem effortless. Pleasant and safe to handle with an adaptable fit, it is a must-have accessory for any wine connoisseur.

GBP99.95 WWW.HARRODS.COM

IWC IW503302 PORTUGIESER WATCH For the man who has everything, this horlogerie collector’s dream is easy on the eye although a little tough on the wallet! Featuring an alligator strap and white or blue dials, it comes in two variations single or double moon - and features nine functions powered by the IWC 52610 calibre. The single moon watch pictured, features a luxury rose gold case with a stunning silver dial and has a 7-day power reserve.

USD41,900 WWW.IWC.COM 88 The Cultured Traveller December 2015/January 2016

CHANEL BOOKS Almost every woman has a love of Chanel. This fabulous trilogy of books by Assouline uncovers the heritage of the House of Chanel, from Coco’s avant-garde styles to Karl’s current innovations. The elegant slip case includes Coco Chanel’s jewellery, perfume, and fashion triumphs, and is a must for the stylish lady’s coffee table.

USD49 WWW.AMAZON.COM

JO MALONE BODY OIL

For Her

Indulge a female friend with this decadent and rich eastern scent of velvety roses and Oud. This wonderfully moisturising body oil comes in a 50 ml bottle, perfect for home or travelling, and comes wrapped in an elegant Jo Malone ribbon-tied box.

GBP50 WWW.JOMALONE.CO.UK

CHLOÉ GEORGIA BAG Chloé's Georgia bag is described by the label as "the star" of its Fall '15 collection. The elegant curves make it a timeless classic, while the long cross-body strap gives it a current edge. Though mini in size, this classic caramel leather design has two snap-fastening compartments to keep your phone and keys organised.

GBP610 WWW.NET-A-PORTER.COM

DOLCE AND GABBANA HEADPHONES These statement headphones are made of nappa leather and embellished with the brand’s signature jewellery and glittering, vintage-inspired adornments such as pearls, gold chains, Swarovski crystals, and velvet across the earpieces and bridge.

Perfect for a bad hair day or for rocking that Christmas party!

EUR3,950 WWW.DOLCEANDGABBANA.COM

DIPTYQUE CANDLE SET Light up your home this holiday season with a limited edition set of 3 candles dedicated to the aroma of trees.

Sapin has pine-tree resin tinged with mandarin, orange, and woody notes.

Liquidambar has amber spiced with warm cinnamon and nutmeg, and the third is scented with muscovado sugar and Oliban creating incense vapours of comforting woody scents. Perfect as a stocking filler or small present.

Diptyque offers free delivery for orders over USD75.

USD100 WWW.DIPTYQUE.COM

RYAN STORER EARRINGS These earrings by Ryan Storer are a festive and contemporary take on a classic design. Set with Swarovski pearls and crystals, these are the perfect accessory to a little black dress, or a glamourous addition to your white-T and jeans combo.

GBP206 WWW.NET-A-PORTER.COM

WIN!

WORTH USD125 0!

A 2-NIGHT SUITE STAY FOR TWO AT GRAND HYATT DOHA Win two nights in an executive suite at Qatar's premier 5-star resort hotel, Grand Hyatt Doha, set in 27 acres of lush, landscaped grounds in West Bay Lagoon, within 20 mins drive of new multi-billion dollar Hamad International Airport, and moments away from the city’s financial and commercial centre.

All of Grand Hyatt Doha's luxury rooms and suites feature private balconies or terraces, and many boast breathtaking views of the blue waters of the Arabian Gulf.

Grand Hyatt Doha also offers extensive meeting and banqueting facilities, a full-service business centre, the multi award-winning Jaula Spa & Gym, a 400-metre private sandy beach, indoor & outdoor swimming pools, and a diverse range of eating options at half a dozen on-property restaurants and bars, include much decorated South East Asian eatery, Isaan, traditional Arabic cafe and shisha lounge, Majlis, and the hotel's Mediterranean poolside destination venue, Rocca.

The lucky winner will stay for two nights in a luxury suite for two people, have dinner for two in Rocca, enjoy breakfasts in bed, and checkout at 2pm on day three. doha.grand.hyatt.com Please email your contact details (name, email and mobile number) to win@theculturedtraveller.com and your name will be entered into this competition draw. The draw will take place on 31 January 2016 and the lucky winner will be contacted first week of February 2016.

Rest assured your contact details will not be shared with third parties.

December 2015/January 2016 The Cultured Traveller 91

A

H

Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort www.anantara.com

Harbin Ice Festival www.icefestivalharbin.com

Arabian Adventures Qatar www.arabianadventureqatar.net

Hofburg Palace www.hofburg-wien.at

Ati-Atihan www.kaliboatiatihan.ph

B Budapest Christmas Markets www.budapestchristmas.com Burggasse 24 www.facebook.com/burggasse24 Burning The Clocks www.facebook.com/burningtheclocks

C Café Central www.cafécentral-wien.at Café Gerbeaud www.gerbeaud.hu Cape Weligama www.capeweligama.com Cartagena International Music Festival www.cartagenamusicfestival.com

D Dining in Doha www.diningindoha.com Doha Bus www.dohabus.com

E EDVARD Vienna www.kempinski.com/vienna Electric Daisy Carnival www.electricdaisycarnival.com

Hogmany www.edinburghshogmanay.com Holzer Galerie www.galerieholzer.at

I IDAM www.alain-ducasse.com

J Julien MacDonald www.julienmacdonald.com Junkanoo Parade www.bahamas.co.uk

K Key West Food & Wine Festival www.keywestfoodandwinefestival.com

L La Cigale Hotel www.lacigalehotel.com La Compagnie www.lacompagnie.com Lagoona Mall www.lagoonamall.com Le Loft At Sofitel Stephandsom www.sofitel.at Le Méridien www.lemeridien.com Lincoln Center www.jalcdoha.com Lizard Island www.lizardisland.com.au Lobmeyr www.lobmeyr.at Loos American Bar www.loosbar.at

M

Emirates www.emirates.com

Mak www.mak.at

Events Doha www.eventsdoha.com

Massimo www.massimobali.com

F

Meinl’s Weinbar www.meinl.com

Fairmont Sanur Beach Bali www.fairmont.com/sanur-bali Fête Des Lumières www.fetedeslumieres.lyon.fr Four Seasons Hotel www.fourseasons.com

92 The Cultured Traveller December 2015/January 2016

Msheireb Enrichment Centre www.msheireb.com Museum of Islamic Art www.mia.org.qa

N Nana Mouskouri www.nanamouskouri.net Nogo Bali Ikat Center www.nogobali.com

P Palais Hansen Kempinski Vienna www.kempinski.com Park Hyatt Vienna www.hyatt.com Plachutta www.plachutta.at Playa Grande www.thepalacedr.com Prototype www.prototypefestival.org

Q Qatar Airways www.qatarairways.com

S Singapore Airlines www.singaporeair.com Six Senses Residences Courchevel www.sixsenses.com

T Tandjung Sari www.tandjungsari.com The Goring www.thegoring.com

752 GOURAUD ST. SAIFI VILLAGE BEIRUT • LEBANON T: +961 76 997 676 M: +961 76 997 676

The Phoenicia, Malta www.campbellgrayhotels.com The Pig www.thepighotel.com The St. Regis Doha www.stregisdoha.com The St. Regis Macao www.stregis.com The Upper House www.upperhouse.com Trisara www.trisara.com

U Upper Belvedere www.belvedere.at

W W Amsterdam www.wamsterdam.com W Doha Hotel www.whoteldoha.com

Z Yama Yoga Studios www.yamayogastudios.com

Z Zum Schwarzen Kamel www.kameel.at

•BEIRUT•

www.giltbeirut.com