mise en place issue 55 Getting Better With Age

No. 55, March 2011

ALUMNI MAGAZINE OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA

Joan, Then and Now...

Getting Better With Age

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(Left to Right) CIA faculty Lou Jones, Corky Clark ‘71, Kathy Merget, Shirley Cheng, Jean Morris, Greg Zifchak ‘80, and Lynne Eddy

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Getting Better with Age Foodservice meets the Boomers

10 The Aging Palate

The experience of taste as we age

12 Kopf: The Trip of a Lifetime

A student’s journey to wine country

16 Inside the CMC Exam

A close-up look at the CMC exam and summit

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29 14 Across the Plaza

Following the Presidential Trail | Opening New Career Doors | Kudos | The Wisconsin Cheese Tour

22 Education for Life

With Age Comes Character | How WOF Changed My World Book Shelf | Hiring the Best

29 Gifts at Work

Hobart and the CIA…in the Mix | Why Give?

Giving’s Impact

32 Class Notes

Alumni Council Corner | Class Notes | In Memoriam

While preparing this edition of mise en place, I realized two very important things. First, how great it is that high-quality foodservice is making real inroads in the healthcare/senior care industry. And second, aging ain’t what it used to be. In fact, seniors are finding that, at least when it comes to food,

mise en place® No. 55, March 2011 Nancy W. Cocola, Editor Leslie Jennings, Designer

things can get better with age.

Contributing Writers

For the first time in our nation’s history, the senior population will outnumber

Mark Ainsworth ’86

other generations. And Baby Boomers are redefining what it means to be

John Fischer ’88

“old.” It’s clear when you hear them say, “60 is the new 40,” that their aging

Shelly Loveland

bodies don’t necessarily reflect their still-young psyches. As the front edge

Andrea Morris

of the Boomer bubble officially hits retirement age in 2011, the healthcare/

Tama Murphy

senior care industry is feeling the approach and preparing. Providers know

Brigid Ransom

that as a group, Boomers are more active, informed, and sophisticated than

Felicia Zammit

previous generations of retirees. They’ve known a lifetime of exposure to world cuisines, fine wines, and international travel. And because they are Internet savvy, they know more about their medical conditions and proposed

Editorial Board Dr. Tim Ryan ’77 President

Chet Koulik Francisco Migoya

industry. More and more experienced chefs are heading to the kitchens of

Nancy Harvin Vice President for Advancement

hospitals, retirement communities, and senior centers. They are succeeding

Mark Ainsworth ’86

Tama Murphy

in developing inventive, flavorful, healthy meals in often challenging

Brad Barnes ’87

environments, and to hear them talk about it, the work is incredibly satisfying

Sue Cussen

Anthony Nogales ’88

treatments than any generation before them.

Businesses began anticipating the inevitable “senior boom” years ago, but now, everyone has accelerated the pace. It is no different in the foodservice

and creative. This edition of mise en place will take a look at how foodservice is meeting the complex dietary needs and culinary demands of a population that wants its food to get better as they age!

Nancy Cocola, Editor n_cocola@culinary.edu

Ron DeSantis ’81

Chris Loss ’93 Douglass Miller ’89

Jen Stack ’03

Heather Kolakowski ’02

Mission

Mise en place is the college magazine for alumni and friends of The Culinary Institute of America, and reflects its principles and core values. Its mission is to foster a mutually beneficial and enduring relationship between the CIA, its alumni, and friends by: Providing information of interest about the college, its alumni, faculty, and students.

Presenting substantive, balanced, and accurate coverage of major issues and events concerning the college as well as highlighting alumni leadership and contributions to the foodservice industry. Creating a forum to help alumni network and build community. ©2011 The Culinary Institute of America All rights reserved.

nancy at age 17

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Photography: Keith Ferris, Eve Heyah, Andrea Morris, and Anne Rettig

You Make Us Better— One Brick at a Time

contemporary American art movements.

This year, you’ve responded to our

9 a.m.–5 p.m.

Be sure to stop by the library’s Tober Exhibit Room, Monday–Friday from

Brick Campaign in greater numbers

Prix Fixe Has Perfect Pitch

than ever before! Every brick purchased supported the Alumni Scholarship Fund—

The CIA’s Singing Society, Prix Fixe, has

helping future students pursue their

been hitting just the right notes around the

culinary passions through an excellent

Hyde Park campus. The 14-member group

education. Bricks are personalized to

has been raising its collective voice at such

your specifications and are a great way

events as home soccer games, the Board of

to acknowledge yourself, a friend, family,

Trustees annual meeting, Octoberfest, Stars

faculty, or the memory of someone

and Stripes July celebration, and a Student

you hold dear. Your brick will have a

Government Association-sponsored concert

permanent place adorning the walls of

in Farquharson Hall. “We’re trying to

the Student Recreation Center—a hub of activity on the Hyde Park campus.

Call 845-451-1401 or order online at www.ciaalumninetwork.com.

branch out and put together some specialty chronicles the evolution of a movement

groups like a barbershop quartet and a

in contemporary American dinnerware

girl group,” says Derek Smith, president of

and decorative ceramics that began in the

the society. “We’d like to contribute to the

first half of the twentieth century with the

school in any way we can, like helping to

“father of British studio pottery,” Bernard

entertain at admissions recruiting events.”

Leach. It includes functional pottery

Derek suggests that anyone who wants to

created by individual potters as well as

get in touch should contact the Student

decorative fine art ceramics inspired by

Activities Office at 845-451-1400.

alumni council memeber jim binner— and his brick

CIA Library Goes to “Pot-tery” An exciting new exhibit was unveiled at the Conrad N. Hilton Library on the Hyde Park campus. Entitled “In the Style of...American Pottery in the British Studio Tradition,” it will run from October 15, 2010–May 31, 2011. The work on display

mise en place no.55, March 2011

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Getting Better With Age Foodservice Meets the Boomers

By Nancy Cocola

In 1978

the motto of the U.S. government’s Administration on Aging was “Older Americans and the Family.” In 2010, the motto was “Age Strong! Live Long!” The difference in tone, language, approach, expectation, and pure energy is striking, and it mirrors a changing attitude towards aging. In the year 2011, the first of the Baby Boomer generation will turn 65 and be eligible to be called “senior citizens.” They are considered retirement material. But there is no doubt that this up-and-coming senior generation sees its “old age” in a completely different light than generations that have preceded it. They feel younger than their birth certificates attest, they are more physically active, and they have very high expectations of the “autumn” of their lives.

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www.ciaalumninetwork.com

By the sheer force of its numbers—76 million American children were

deeply influenced by the demands of this growing demographic,

born between 1945 and 1964—the Baby Boomers are a demographic

foodservice sees still more change on the horizon. Two major segments

wave that reshaped society as it passed through. Almost from

of the foodservice industry that will be most directly affected are

“conception,” Boomers were fodder for marketers, setting them apart

healthcare and senior living. For the purposes of this article we

and reinforcing their identity as powerful, special, and different.

will divide them into hospitals and adult communities—including

From toys to music, from fashion to social change, Boomers had

independent living, assisted living, or non-acute nursing care.

a voice that was listened to. The culinary arena was no different.

commonplace and innovative. But that changed as the Boomers found

Hospitals— Where Dining Means Healing

their guru in Julia Child. In 1963, her WGBH television show The

Remember lying in the hospital bed and hearing the squeaky wheels

Raised on convenience foods cleverly marketed to their homemaker mothers in the ’50s, things like TV dinners and boxed macaroni were

French Chef opened up a world of food unlike any other Americans had seen before. The oldest Baby Boomers were 18 back then and they watched, rapt, as Child brought new flavors and demystified the heretofore daunting French cuisine. Suddenly there was the possibility that everyone could cook!

of the food cart as it stopped in front of every room on its halting trek down the hall? As it approached your door you might have found yourself hungry and salivating. But once you removed the warming dome from the plate, your hunger evaporated. None of what was on that plate had the remotest resemblance to the lemon chicken with

Since then, Baby Boomers have seen food as part pleasure and part

new potatoes and string beans you had so scrupulously requested

mission. They were the first to accept, demand, and buy foods from

on the paper menu the night before. “Grey” was the predominant

around the world. Remember, the shelves of stores were not always

impression the food gave. Take heart. Those days are gone. A new era

stocked with Epoisses, Comte, Brie, Taleggio, and Morbier cheeses.

has dawned in hospital food.

They were not always bulging with fine French, Italian, Australian,

Just ask Richard Jarmusz ’79, executive chef at the Fletcher Allen

and Argentine wines. And they have not always offered up exotic spices, grains, and condiments until they were as common as ketchup and mustard. It is the willingness of the Boomer generation to try new things, as well as their collective buying power, that changed the culinary landscape.

Health Care Medical Center in Burlington, VT. “Eating well is a major part of the healing process,” Richard explains. “And there is lots of potential for improvement in hospital foodservice.” That is why almost six years ago he began plans to make a major overhaul at Fletcher. Serving 1.6 million meals a year to both patients and visitors,

Now as they are aging up, they are creating yet another imperative.

it is the largest healthcare facility in Vermont. How is it possible to

In 1963, there were 17 million people age 65 and over. In 2009,

customize and improve the quality of foodservice on that large a scale?

there were 39.6 million people age 65 and over (about 13% of

At Fletcher, that meant a marriage of technology, training, culinary

the population). And according to the U.S. Census Bureau, it is

skill, financial buy-in from the institution, and creativity.

conservatively projected that in 2030 there will be 72.1 million people

Going to a room service model at Fletcher required everyone—from

in that demographic group (almost 20% of the U.S. population). These staggering numbers mean that Baby Boomers are going to define and shape what it means to be a senior citizen for years to come. Already

the operator who takes the patients’ requests to the chefs creating the meals to the doctors writing dietary orders to the dietitians who guarantee a well-balanced meal—to believe that patients would

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ultimately benefit from undertaking such a complex system. Richard

herbs. Items grown there can offer fresh notes to dishes being sent to

also had to prove that it was a financial “go” for the institution. His

the rooms. Of course, Fletcher buys most of its produce and 98% of its

hypothesis, which was quickly borne out, was that the cost of creating

beef from local Vermont farmers.

a restaurant-style menu and serving it on-demand would be defrayed by savings on the food itself. Institutions like hospitals are notorious for food waste. Patients will often not eat food that gets cold waiting at the bedside for them to return from a test or looks so unappealing that their flimsy appetite isn’t prompted to eat. “Turns out, even though it is more labor intensive to prepare food à la minute, we remain budgetneutral,” Richard explained.

That’s good news. But the cost of the complex computer systems that track everything from a patient’s dietary restrictions to pending medical tests to current medications can be prohibitive. Fletcher agreed to be a Beta test site for the computer company that developed the program. That meant being a “show and tell” site, where potential clients were brought into Fletcher to see the system in action. The upside? The system came at a reduced cost to the hospital.

To address the salt/sugar/fat conundrum, Fletcher produces food using the healthful Mediterranean-style. In addition, Richard and his team have just started a program to produce their own fresh chicken, beef, and vegetable base broths. They process chickens themselves so they can use the bones for stock. This enables them to more successfully control the salt content in all of the dishes they prepare.

It is clear that this trend in hospital dining is widespread. Hospitals across the country, and foodservice companies like Aramark, have been initiating innovative approaches in the institutions they serve for some time now. They know that patients and their families recognize good food. Expectations are increasingly high for chefs to produce healthy, flavorful, and visually appealing food to sustain patients during their stay. By allowing patients to choose their meals, chefs are giving them back a sense of control in an otherwise infantilizing, often

When a patient calls to order a meal, a trained nutrition assistant

depersonalizing, environment. This control, and the accompanying

guides him or her through the process, suggesting different options

nourishing appeal of the meals being presented to patients, is how

should a patient’s selection fall outside his or her individual dietary

dining is essential to the healing process.

prescription. After that process of “negotiating” an appealing meal

will go off, alerting the kitchen staff. And whether there are other

Adult Communities— Where Dining is the Activity du Jour

trays ready for distribution or not, that tray is headed to the patient’s

They used to be called health care facilities, nursing homes, and

with the patient is over, it’s “order up!” Once prepared and on the tray, the meal is tagged electronically. After eight minutes, a beeper

room. From order to service it takes only 35 minutes. According to Priscilla Nuwash ’74, director of quality process improvement at the Poudre Valley Health System, their room service motto is “10 minutes or 10 orders,” whichever comes first. Believing firmly in the idea that patients must eat well to get well, Priscilla’s team has even gone to the lengths of heading to the store to satisfy an ailing patient’s craving if

continuing care communities. But not only have the names changed, the entire approach to servicing the growing population of Americans over the age of 65 has undergone an overhaul. Once built on a medical model, they are now fashioned on a residential framework.

that is the only thing that will tempt them to eat.

Life in an adult community is not so far off for Baby Boomers. Their

Another challenge facing hospitals when they make the change to

wish to maintain the lawn and make all the meals, and they crave

restaurant-style foodservice is educating the existing kitchen staff.

The actual kitchen at Fletcher had to be redesigned to eliminate the tray line and function more like a restaurant kitchen with stations. In the past, the tray line meant bulk cooking. Now, at Fletcher, workers are asked to cook to order. Richard had his cooks own the process by asking them to develop recipes. He takes them to restaurants with open kitchens so they could watch cooks on the brigade line. And in

kids are grown, their friends may have moved away, they no longer the time to enjoy travel, dining, culture, and, most of all, people.

While many people in their 60s and early 70s are still working, adult communities offer the opportunity to free them of the grinding responsibilities of home ownership.

Seniors can opt to buy into free-standing adult communities comprised of independent-living houses and apartments or a Continuing Care

the end, buy-in from the cooks helped make it a success.

Retirement Community (CCRC), where a variety of accommodations

In addition, Fletcher is working to reduce costs, appeal to the Baby

both types of communities, the approach to seniors has begun to

Boomers’ more sophisticated palate, and address health issues through its rooftop garden. With a part-time gardener on hand, the 45' x 60' garden affords opportunity to teach people about garden-to-plate dining. Staffers are encouraged to use their break time to get out and work in the garden and familiarize themselves with the produce and

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senior citizens apartments. Now they are called adult communities or

are available as the individual’s needs for assistance increase. In change and will continue doing so under the critical eye of the Baby Boomer. They are demanding the autonomy, self-determination, and intellectual stimulation they have always enjoyed. They want activities, ambiance, accommodations, and food that mirror their current lives.

For some, university-linked facilities are a popular alternative. There,

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

active older adults have access to the stimulation of campus facilities,

North Carolina, recognizes the challenge of meeting the expectation

classes, film, and theater performances. But there is no doubt that

of what he calls “a captive audience.” When people are dining with

one of the primary differentiators for seniors as they compare living

you between one and three times a day, keeping meals new and fresh

options is the quality of the dining services.

is the challenge. While some older seniors are interested in having the

According to Jon Benson, director for culinary operations North America at Hyatt Hotels, “When seniors move into one of our communities, the lovely trappings and sophisticated accommodations

same comfort items on the menu, the growing culture of “younger” seniors wants variety. To better prepare this increasingly demanding public, two approaches have been taken.

are a draw. But after a few weeks, that fades to the background and

First, care facilities, like hospitals, are hiring restaurant chefs. Second,

food becomes a huge focus of pleasure, social life, and good health.”

they are training their existing chefs in order to provide opportunities

Don Clawson, assistant vice president of food and beverage for Vi Living (formerly Classic Residence by Hyatt), explains, “The Baby

for them to take a leadership and innovative role in providing food in adult communities.

Boomer isn’t living with us quite yet. Our current residents traveled to

For Vi Living, a relationship with the CIA has been an important

Europe, the Caribbean, and Russia, but weren’t focused on the food

component of maintaining a leadership role in the adult community

and didn’t bring it back with them. But Baby Boomers are bringing

arena. Vi wants its chefs to create nutrient-dense food to enhance

home world cuisines. It’s become a passion and a cultural attribute,

the lives of residents in their various communities. Indeed, they

and we are getting ready for them so when they arrive at our doors we

are creating dining experiences they like to call “stealth health.”

can meet their expectations and preferences.”

According to Clawson, “We want our restaurant-quality menus

What exactly does that mean? First, it means that adult communities are luring restaurant chefs to their kitchens. They have the expertise to cook any type of cuisine while using healthy cooking techniques.

Second, it means any new construction is anticipating the Boomers’ interest in the chef as “artist” and food as his “flavor palette.” Gone are the big auditorium-style dining rooms, where everyone got offered one or two choices. Today, communities are building a variety of venues to meet the moods of their residents. Interested in a romantic dinner for two? A beautiful dining room with European table linens and blown glass goblets awaits you. Want a quick sandwich after a dip in the pool and a sauna? The light fare of the café beckons. Having a quick drink

sifted through the CIA’s healthy cooking lens. We operate within the philosophy of classically caring cuisine, which means cooking with lower amounts of fat, sugar, and salt while applying healthy cooking techniques.” Vi has contracted with the CIA for seven classes so that every head chef in their facilities goes through the Certified Executive Chef training—enabling them to increase their knowledge of world flavors, taste profiling, and flavor dynamics. Beyond that, Vi and many other adult communities are requiring that their chefs become Certified Dietary Managers. This helps them understand the language spoken by nutritionists and dietitians, with whom they collaborate daily to shape delicious meals around the needs of residents.

with out-of-town friends before heading out for the evening? The bar is

Once again, foodservice is playing a pivotal role in shaping and

stocked for every preference. Interested in how your food is prepared?

meeting the expectations of an important segment of our population.

Open kitchens are part of the plan. Chefs are offering cooking classes

A new generation of chefs is going to be at the forefront of ensuring

and emerging from behind the stove to meet with residents.

that as Baby Boomers enter their golden years, they will dine

Menu options are a big part of meeting residents’ expectations. Todd Ohle ’95, food and beverage director at The Cypress of Raleigh in

deliciously, snack sumptuously, and enjoy the benefits of healthy food prepared expertly. Boomers should be confident in the fact that as they age, their food options will only get better and better.

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The Aging Palate

By Mark Ainsworth ’86, PC III/CEC

All of us enjoy good food; it is one of the most pleasurable parts of our

tongue. An “average taster,” comprising most of the population, has

lives. From the moment we are born, we seek out the tastes that make

about 5,000. Those with only 2,000–3,000 are considered “non-

us feel good. As children, we have strong opinions about food but have

tasters,” whereas some “super tasters”—two-thirds of whom are

trouble articulating our sensitivity to new tastes, textures, and colors.

women—are endowed with more than 10,000, and are, by far, the

As adults our palate matures and ages, and we learn to appreciate new

most sensitive to taste and flavor.

and unusual flavors that we may have shied away from as kids. In our golden years, we struggle with weight, medication, special diets, and food restrictions that inhibit our enjoyment of food. As this particular demographic of older citizens’ increases in numbers, it is important to understand their dietary needs, food preferences, and the changing nature of their palates.

Thousands of years ago, when we lived in tribal groups, the men were hunters, while the women gathered and foraged for food. Game was scarce and the catch would be shared equally with the entire group. Fruits, nuts, and wild grains, which made up the majority of the calories, were collected by the women. With their highly developed sense of taste, they became the first line of defense against rotten and poisonous foods.

All Tongues Are Different The number of taste buds someone has varies from person to person for no discernible reason. These small taste receptors on the tongue, known as papillae, have the ability to perceive sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami—a heretofore relatively unknown taste sensation originally identified in Japan. This fifth taste is often described as a meaty sensation or savory taste, commonly found in aged and fermented

Aging Taste Buds Until middle age, taste buds have the ability to regenerate every couple of weeks. After the age of 40, this rate of regeneration decreases and our ability to taste is compromised. Our tongue and taste buds age along with the rest of our body.

food, tomatoes, and beef. For centuries, chefs have added tomato paste

With this in mind, the key to cooking for this age group is more,

to the drippings of a roast to make the sauce. We now understand that

not less, flavor. For years, chefs had an all-or-nothing approach to

combining these two umami-rich ingredients adds to the overall flavor

seasoning, reaching for the fat, salt, and sugar to make food taste

of the dish.

good. Gradually they have learned to manipulate and coax these delicate flavors out of the food by using a variety of ingredients,

Sensitivity to taste is derived from the number of taste buds on the

Your Tongue Ages Too! We lose the ability to taste, starting first with sweet, then salty, followed by bitter, and lastly sour.

PLUS, age means loss of nerve endings that register heat and spice.

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bitter sour salty 3

2

sweet

1

4

cooking techniques, and spices. For example, applying the right

guidelines for a healthy person are 2,300 mg of salt a day, and 1,500

amount of heat to a food can transform its flavor and texture in what is

mg or less if you are in any of the following groups:

referred to as the maillard reaction. Coffee, chocolate, bread, chicken,

• Over 40 years of age

and beer are just a few of the foods and beverages that benefit from

• If you are African American

this type of browning and rich flavor development.

• If you have high blood pressure

Taste and Aroma = Flavor Although very efficient in detecting the four basic tastes, taste buds are unable to distinguish a food’s flavor. To understand this, hold your nose

Additionally, it is interesting to note that one teaspoon of table salt equals 2,400 mg of sodium, which is already 100 mg over the recommended daily allowance. The majority of Americans consume more than twice this amount daily.

closed and eat a piece of candy. The flavor you perceive should be

Most professional kitchens use kosher salt, which is free of additives

sweet, sour, salty, or bitter—nothing else. Now release your nose. What

like sodium, silicoaluminate, dextrose, and iodine. Its large crystals

you will taste is the candy’s flavor. This delicate interaction of aroma

make it easy to use because the flat sides of each grain adhere to food

and taste can be used to stimulate appetite. One successful approach

surfaces and absorb liquid. Although all salt is marine-based, sea salt

to increase sales of appetizers is to have a server walk around the

is evaporated from the sea and takes on the mineral-rich flavor of the

dining room with a pan of sautéed onions and garlic. The same

water from which it is collected.

technique works for dessert. The aroma of chocolate or apples and cinnamon might just be enough to entice an undecided customer. This is a perfect way to entice seniors to eat healthy food—an occupation they often forego because food has stopped tasting as good.

Contrast and Balance Contrasting flavors and texture is another method to master flavor development without the use of extra fat and salt. The reason most people enjoy a hot dog with relish, ketchup, and mustard is contrasts. A hot dog contains meat, salt, spices, 25% fat, and smoke. The sweet and sour effect of the condiments contrasts the flavor by cutting through the fat to create a powerful combination. Understanding that opposite flavors act to heighten the overall success of the dish is an important point to remember when preparing food for seniors. Sauces, dips, relishes, chutneys, pickles, and fruits can all be served with a myriad of center-of-the-plate offerings to increase the flavor profile and give the customer additional choices that are perceived as valuable addons. Developing dishes with contrasting cooking methods in mind is another technique for successful flavor development. Serving a grilled steak with grilled vegetables and grilled potatoes is not as effective as contrasting the grilled steak with boiled potatoes, braised vegetable, and fried shallots or onions. Following this through with a variety of

Seasoning with Salt for Low-Sodium Diets Sea salt can effectively be used for low-sodium diets by adding it to the food at the very end of plating. Foods contain natural amounts of sodium so it is important to use nutritional analysis programs in developing accurate low-sodium dishes. Once this analysis is done, the trick to restricted sodium cooking is to measure any remaining salt and using it to finish the dish. An immediate burst of textured sea salt makes a strong flavor statement to the consumer who is accustomed to having the salt buried in the food. Chefs may find it difficult to cook with no added salt, but this technique of applying it last is an accurate and effective way to season food and make it appealing.

Make the Flavors Count The world pantry encompasses highly flavored healthy foods that can be used to create wonderful tasting dishes. Herbs, spices, citrus, and vinegars are all flavorful and low in calories and sodium. Fresh foods, legumes and grains, lean meats, and fish contain the most nutrients and are colorful and delicious.

sauces allows for a complex, well-engineered dining experience.

It should be noted that not all senior citizens have diminished

Sodium

that last a lifetime. However, chefs and food professionals have a

Interestingly, sodium is the only mineral we crave and is critical for

age. With the population living many years longer than our ancestors,

the regulation of our body’s fluids. Historically, salt was difficult to

it behooves us to preserve this trend by providing great-tasting, well-

obtain and was a valuable commodity. Without salt in the ancient

balanced, and, above all, healthful food.

kitchen, proteins including meats, fish, and cheese were highly perishable. Today, the majority of the sodium we eat comes from

sensitivity to taste. Many people are blessed with acute taste receptors responsibility to understand their customers’ needs regardless of their

Mark Ainsworth is a CIA professor in culinary arts.

processed and fast foods. The Center for Disease Control daily

mise en place no.55, March 2011

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Kopf: The Trip of a Lifetime

By Andrea Morris

When I was told that I had won the storied Kopf Scholarship, I was overcome with excitement. I’d heard from faculty members and past winners about the amazing people I’d meet, places I’d see, and food and wine I’d experience over the six-week trip to California, Italy, and France, but nothing could prepare me for what was in store.

California

Italy

In California, winemakers from

My first and lasting impression

Santa Barbara up to Sonoma

of Italy was the way every

definitely knew the science

cobblestone, sloping hill, and

behind the wines. Nearly all of them hold degrees from the University

bell tower seemed to sag under the weight of history. Yet the Italian

of California, Davis and seem as comfortable in a lab coat as in

people could not be more up-to-date and vibrant—zooming through

jeans. We were given a firsthand look into this scientific approach

the narrow and winding streets on Vespas and drinking espresso with

at Domaine Carneros, the gorgeous California outpost of Taittinger

grappa at all hours of the day. I was in heaven.

Champagne. Known for sparkling wine, the winery also produces a number of very noteworthy Pinot Noirs. Founding winemaker Eileen Crane took us through a tasting of a number of partially vinified musts (juices) to explore the way the flavor of the juice evolves as it ferments.

We then met with TJ Evans, head of still wine production, to discuss the differences inherent in creating sparkling and still wines.

that we heard nearly as much German as Italian. It was here that we first realized our good fortune—mushroom season was in full throttle.

At lunch with the dark-humored Roberto Pighin of Pighin Winery, we began with charcuterie, but it was “all porcinis” from there. We enjoyed mushrooms in soup that was garnished with pheasant mousse;

After a tour of the winery, we sat down at a long table set with two

mushrooms stuffed into a single giant raviolo with local wild berries;

wine glasses at each spot and three pairs of bottles of red wine. Upon

and mushrooms simply grilled and served with cheeses of the region.

closer examination, the bottles did not bear the retail label, but rather

What to drink with this bounty? Of course there was the regional

codes like “M+TH” and “Stemmed.” We were being prepared for a

favorite, Pinot Grigio, but there was also a grape I was unfamiliar

side-by-side tasting of Pinot Noirs made identically except for one

with called Refosco, which was blended with Merlot and Cabernet

detail in each one. The “M+TH,” meaning “medium plus toasted

Sauvignon. The wine was of medium weight with currant and warm

heads,” referred to a slightly higher level of toasting on the barrel

spice notes that were the perfect antidote to the rainy drizzle that

than the one labeled simply “M” for “Medium.” But the difference

persisted throughout the day and were the perfect accompaniment to

was remarkable. TJ explained that he and his team do this kind of

the porcini!

comparison for every different vineyard they work with, choosing the treatment that best suits each block of grapes.

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Our first stop was in Friuli, a picturesque region so close to the Alps

But not even the barrage of delicious mushrooms could compare to what we found at Michele Chiarlo winery in Barolo. While gazing

Impressed with Domaine Carneros and all of the other wineries we

over the rolling hills, painted with patches of vineyards separated

visited in California, we boarded a very early flight to Italy, excited to

by neat rows of hazelnut trees, we were so enamored that we found

see the country that has so influenced American food and wine.

ourselves wondering about the logistics of moving here to live.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

Looking to dine, we stepped into a tiny café, where the dining room

their winery with an eye to feng shui. Their grand cru vats are

air was thick with the unmistakable aroma of white truffles. No one

arranged in a circle in the center of the winery below a round opening

needed a menu to know what they were ordering. One server brought

in the roof, which head winemakers Jacques Lardiere and Frederic

out seven bowls of noodles tinted gold by egg yolks, then presented

Barnier believe promotes positive energy during the fermentation

a tray holding two fist-sized white truffles and a shaver. She proudly

process. They are also building a special barrel room for aging their

went from bowl to bowl, shaving several ounces of truffle on each,

top wines, which is shaped like the oval silhouette of a barrel, to

only to circle around a second time for good measure. Though

channel and circulate the wine’s energy as it ages.

we were in Barolo, we drank the lighter white Soave, so as not to overpower the one-of-a-kind delicacy before us.

But all of this attention to energy flow is for nothing if the wine does not deliver. Luckily, a barrel tasting of twenty of the 2009 vintage wines put any doubts to rest. So good were they that it made the necessary spitting seem like a shame. Perhaps even more impressive

France The transition from Italy to France was less dramatic than from California to Italy, and yet, there were differences. Whereas most of the restaurants in Italy served regional Italian cuisine, in France, especially Paris and some less cosmopolitan areas, we found everything from sushi bars to shishkebab stands mixed in with the traditional brasseries and cafés.

This mix of traditional and modern translated into the winemaking process as well. As we drove down RN74—the famed route through the vineyards in Beaune, Burgundy—and passed the brick walled clos and stone archway marking the entrance to the Chevalier-Montrachet vineyard, I began to believe that nothing had changed here for centuries. But Burgundy is surprisingly progressive and is one of the leading regions using biodynamic methods in the vineyard. This technique goes beyond organic by following the cycles of the moon and by creating a self-sustaining ecosystem within a cultivated area.

In that same vein, at Maison Louis Jadot in Beaune we saw that in addition to growing their grapes sustainably, the winemakers designed

the cobweb-filled cellars at maison louis jadot in beaune

were the decidedly old-fashioned cellars where a share of each vintage has been saved. It seemed disrespectful to speak above a whisper as we walked through the cobwebbed chambers, spotting famous appellations and bottles from as far back as the mid-nineteenth century. With no frills and no seeming order to the placement of different piles of bottles, it was the opposite of modern—save for the extremely high-tech security system! Visiting the highly conceptual winery and then the unchanged wine cellars summed up the way that France, or at least French wine, has come into modern times; with one foot firmly rooted in its rich past and the other stepping towards technology and sustainability.

And with that, our adventure was over. With the French fuel strike looming, we felt as though we were fleeing the country before all flights were grounded. Naturally, we celebrated the end of our journey with Champagne and tried to convince ourselves that we could go back to living our normal lives as students and recent graduates. The lessons I learned about food, wine, and culture will stay with me forever, as will a yearning for sparkling wine, fresh Alba truffles, and aged Burgundy.

Andrea Morris is a CIA bachelor’s degree student.

Andrea (far right) harvesting grapes in napa

13

Following the Presidential Trail The work of a college president is often very challenging and difficult. So when there are opportunities to celebrate accomplishments, anniversaries, and new partnerships that advance the college, it’s always a delight. At the end of 2010, President Ryan had a number of such opportunities. short continuing education classes to our current model that includes two AOS degree programs and an accelerated wine and beverage program. Looking through old pictures, Tim took time to reminisce with the original team about the trials and tribulations of getting Greystone up and running. Among those challenges were the tremendous rainfall and flooding of St. Helena that year. Note the old sign in the picture.

Marine Corps Celebrates The CIA hosted a special birthday celebration for the U.S. Marines here at the Hyde Park campus that marked the 235th anniversary of the Corps. The ceremony, which included eight Marines who are

Hyde Park Hosts Singapore In anticipation and celebration of the CIA’s historic partnership with the Singapore Institute of Technology (SIT), Dr. Tan Chin Tiong, president of SIT; Tan Chek Ming, deputy president of operations; and Tan Gan Hup, manager of the corporate & planning team; visited our Hyde Park campus in November 2010.

Students in Singapore now have the opportunity to earn a CIA Bachelor of Professional Studies (BPS) degree in culinary arts management—the only degree of its kind in Asia from a U.S.-based culinary college. The first class of students began the program in the CIA’s spectacular new 30,000-square-foot facility on the campus of Temasek Polytechnic in January. While in Hyde Park,

currently enrolled in the college’s ProChef® Certification Program, as well as numerous veterans from the other four branches of the U.S. Military—many of whom are enrolled CIA students—was stirring. The formal ceremony involved a videotaped message from the U.S. Marines Commandant and the singing of the National Anthem by the college’s singing group Prix Fixe. Marine tradition has it that every Marine, no matter where he or she is stationed, gets a piece of birthday cake on the Corps’ birthday. The presiding major explained that the cake is cut with a saber to remind everyone that, “Marines are warriors.” In this picture, the major is cutting a cake decorated with the Marine Corps logo that was prepared by our pastry chefs. The ceremony concluded with the promotion of a Marine officer.

the group toured our facilities, met with Tim and cabinet members, and enjoyed a celebratory lunch in Ristorante Caterina de’ Medici.

Greystone Turns Fifteen August 2010 marked the fifteenth anniversary of the opening of our Greystone campus. During Tim’s visit in September, a small celebratory dinner was held that included many of the staff that has been with the college since 1995. Together, they have watched our California campus grow from one that only offered

14

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

Opening New Career Doors Preparing our students for the real

will discuss advanced meal delivery systems. Kevin

world and making sure they have the

Ronayne and Stephanie Seymor, both of Saratoga

education to take a leadership role

Hospital, will discuss group purchasing, being part of a

on every culinary-related front—these

food consortium, recycling, and other green initiatives

are two of the primary standards for

that affect foodservice in a hospital. And finally, from

curricular decisions at the CIA. So it

Vineyard Commons Senior Center, a 55+ luxury

is no small wonder that, in preparation

independent living facility, executive chef Chris Diesing

for the increased demand for trained

’02 will discuss how restaurants can be modified to meet

chefs in healthcare facilities and senior

the needs of seniors. Vineyard’s Executive Director Bill

retirement communities, Lecturing

Burson will discuss continuum of care.

Instructor in Business Management Lynne Eddy, MS, RD, FADA conceived of the first Foodservice Management in Health Care course ever offered at the CIA. The 15-week course will feature a mix

Capstone Project: For the course capstone project, teams of two students each will visit, observe, and participate in the foodservice departments at one of four local hospitals—Vassar, Northern Dutchess, St. Francis, or Kingston. They will prepare both a lengthy written report and presentation to the class regarding what they

have learned at that site. The students will: • Create a thorough exploration and discussion of the organizational chart of the foodservice department and all departments that interface with it.

• Report and review their facility’s menu cycle and foodservice style.

• Identify the food delivery system that the facility uses and compare it with alternative systems available in the industry today.

• Recommend how to enhance food delivery at their site.

• Identify the role of the dietitian and understand how nutritional screening is

of classroom discussion, readings,

used for patient/customer counseling,

facility tours, guest speakers, and

education, and discharge planning.

extended on-site visits to pre-approved

• Identify the Continuous Quality

hospitals. With an eye toward preparing

Improvement (CQI) Plan for foodservice

students to be competent entry-level

and describe the way data is collected.

managers in health care facilities, the

• Demonstrate an understanding of the

course is structured so that each student will be exposed to:

Joint Commission on the Accreditation

Tours: Two site visits will bookend the

standards.

of Healthcare Organizations ( JCAHO)

course—the first, to Vassar Brothers

• Summarize the top three priorities they

Medical Center in Poughkeepsie, NY,

would have as a manager to improve the

and the second, to Memorial Sloan

foodservice at their facility and the next

Kettering Cancer Center in New York

steps to be taken.

City. They will introduce students to the workings of foodservice and patient

On hand at each of these thorough

care in both general and specialized

presentations will be the vice presidents for

hospitals.

each of the four hospitals so that, in the spirit

Guest Speakers: An array of

of shared information and collaboration, they can get a sense of what other local hospitals

guest speakers will bring front-line experience and expertise to share with

are doing in the area of foodservice.

students. Jo Anne Brown and JoAnne

Throughout the course, emphasis will be

Carlin from Vi Living will help define

placed on understanding the customer/

the nature of high-end independent

patient experience. With hospital patients

and assisted living facilities. Michael

having increasingly high expectations of the

D’Agnes, CEO of Raritan Bay Medical

taste, quality, and presentation of their food,

Center, will discuss current health

career opportunities in this field make this

care reform and its effect on hospitals.

Herb Decato from Aladdin equipment

mise en place no.55, March 2011

students listen intently as experts at vassar hospital share critical information

course timely and relevant.

If you would like more information about this exciting and innovative course, please contact Lynne Eddy at l_eddy@culinary.edu.

15

Inside the CMC Exam

robert mancuso ‘90

the judges

brian Beland ‘94

With a hint of reverence and a wish not to disturb, I tiptoed my

The 12 intrepid candidates could not “cram for the test” but

way into the kitchens to watch four of the 12 chefs taking the

rather had to come prepared with a pantry of experience and a

Certified Master Chef (CMC) exam at the CIA. I wasn’t the only

store of finely honed skills that would take them through each of

one who was fascinated and drawn to watch what is considered

the grueling test days. The Wednesday before the actual exam,

one of the ultimate tests of a chef’s professional chops. Family

each candidate received an e-mail communication with the

and friends of the candidates, CIA visitors, and our own students

protein selected for the first exam segment—Healthy Cooking.

could be found with their noses pressed against the windows that

By Thursday they had to return a menu, ingredient list, and

opened into the kitchens. Watching. Waiting. Anxious. Excited.

nutritional analysis—which was reviewed and verified by a

®

The criteria to qualify for entrance in the American Culinary Federation’s top culinary certification are very specific. Each candidate must have: • Certified Executive Chef or Certified Culinary Educator credentials • Letters of recommendation from two CMCs • The practical skills to perform to the highest standards • A foundation of quality experience and education in advanced courses • Completed coursework in management, cost management, sanitation, food safety, and wines within the last five years • The physical and mental preparation to perform for eight days under extreme pressure • $4,000–$6,000 for fees, travel, housing, etc.

16

By Nancy Cocola

registered dietitian and the CMC exam administrator. Friday was earmarked for the Healthy Cooking orientation and the drawing for the Buffet Catering proteins. Finally, the first day of cooking began and the week’s schedule looked like this: • Saturday: Healthy Cooking • Monday: Buffet Catering • Tuesday: Classical Cuisine • Wednesday: Freestyle Cooking • Thursday: Global Cuisine • Friday: Baking and Pastry • Saturday: Continental and Market Basket With days spent cooking and nights spent prepping ingredient lists for events two days ahead, there was little time for anything else.

In the kitchen, the chefs and their apprentices worked with

Once chefs get over these hurdles, the exam itself is eight days of

a singular focus that was stunning. According to the CIA’s

exacting performance, unrelenting pressure, immense physical

Associate Dean of Culinary Education Brad Barnes ’87, CMC,

demand, and nonstop judging.

the apprentices—all CIA students—were selected using a vetting

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

It was probably the hardest thing I’ve done— mentally, emotionally, and physically—in the culinary profession. It was such an intense exam.

Brian Beland ’94

fate. When it came down to the final day, seven candidates remained standing. What awaited them was a two-part marathon of cooking.

At the end of all the preparation, cooking, tasting, and stress, five new CMCs were named. Among them were three CIA grads: Brian Beland ’94, executive chef at Country Club of Detroit in Grosse Pointe Farms, MI; Daniel Dumont ’90, vice president of culinary/ corporate chef for Ocean Properties LTD in Portsmouth, NH; and Robert Mancuso ’90, executive chef at The Country Club in Chestnut Hill, MA. In addition, Richard Rosendale, executive chef The Greenbrier in White Sulphur Springs, WV; and Brian Sode, executive chef at The Bears Club in Jupiter, FL, made the grade.

As they donned their white CMC jackets, the chefs joined the ranks of a rarified group who, with their inclusion, now number only 66 chefs in the entire United States. Proud family and friends, relieved candidates, and delighted judges welcomed the new CMCs to the fold. The time for silent tiptoeing was over—noisy jubilation filled the room.

the summit

process. As one young apprentice flew by me to grab a bit of olive oil from the shelf, I asked him if it was nerve-wracking to assist his chef during the exam. “No,” he exclaimed. “I wouldn’t say nerve-wracking, I’d say exciting—the most exciting thing I’ve ever done.”

CMC Summit Planned to coincide with the CMC Exam, the CIA hosted the inaugural CMC Summit. Under the leadership of Victor Gielesse, CIA associate vice president of business development, 25 Certified Master Chefs

That day, one of the floor judges was Culinary Director at Cargill

and Certified Master Pastry Chefs gathered for a day of discussion and

Stephen Giunta ’83, CMC. He explained what he was evaluating as

planning they hoped would help to define the role of the CMC program.

he moved silently from station to station in the kitchens. Teamwork,

With almost half of the country’s CMCs together in a room, it was

with the apprentices, other chefs, and even the pot washers (also

possible to address key issues that affect the current status and future

selected CIA students), was observed. Sanitation, as it related to cross-

viability of the CMC program.

contamination and timing of products in and out of refrigeration, got a hard look. Mise en place, including planning with the apprentice, organization of service ware, and even the order and location of items stored in the refrigerator as it pertained to preparation, was scrutinized. Craftsmanship was analyzed from the standpoint of technique, level of fabrication, and utilization of product.

Some of the key topics discussed were: • Unifying the voice of the CMC group • Exploring the CMC’s relevance and role in the ACF • Defining the role of CMC as coach mentors • Investigating how to make the ACF-CMC brand sustainable and viable over the long term

Once the dishes were prepared, the plates went before the panel of

• Utilizing the entrepreneurial spirit of the current CMCs

CMC tasting judges who, along with other CMCs, included CIA

• Refocusing, optimizing, and understanding food presentation

faculty and alumni: Victor Gielisse, Fritz H. Sonnenschmidt, Brad

techniques

Barnes, Adam Busby, Stephen Giunta, Thomas Griffiths ’80,

• Helping to define direction of current taste and food trends

David Megenis ’80, Kenneth Arnone ’92, Rudy Speckamp, Derin

• Creating synergy with the ACF to share resources

Moore ’80, Noble Masi, and Thomas Vaccaro ’85. All judges rotated

This first-ever summit was a landmark for U.S. CMCs. Future meetings,

between floor evaluation and tastings.

subcommittee groups, and projects are in the offing and the group

The grading system is complex and exacting. Each day, after the

anticipates that they will be able to further enhance the value and

tasting and floor evaluations were compiled, candidates were told their

mise en place no.55, March 2011

function of the CMCs throughout the foodservice industry.

17

KUDOS Women Take Championship The CIA Women’s Cross Country team took first place at the Hudson Valley Women’s Athletic Conference (HVWAC) Cross

demonstration of dishes plucked from Mexico’s colonial era—mole poblano and chiles en nogada.

Country Championships! Not only did the team come in first, but

Taking Care of Terra Madre

of our seven runners, six women finished in the top 12 out of 53

Being selected as a delegate to the Terra Madre Summit in Torino,

competitors. Jackie DeGrandpre took first place, cruising through

Italy is an honor, and Professor in Liberal Arts Rich Vergili was

the 5K course a full minute ahead of her nearest competitor. In

delighted to have been chosen. The Terra Madre is an international

second was the CIA’s Brittany Ronan. An additional honor was

conference that gathers sustainable food producers, farmers, cooks,

given to CIA Head Coach Lowell Fisher, who was selected as the

educators, and activists from around the world. They share stories and

2010 Hudson Valley Women’s Athletic Conference Coach of the

traditions, as well as their innovative solutions for keeping small-scale

Year. Kudos to all.

agriculture and sustainable food production alive. With one in six people in the world being food insecure, the delegates from over 150

The Birth of a Nation

countries focused on a few key issues: creating a youth movement,

In conjunction with the Teresa Lozano Long Institute of Latin

of those active solutions already in progress across the globe. Rich

American Studies at The University of Texas at Austin, Chef Iliana de la Vega presented a lecture entitled The Culinary Birth of a Nation.

She explored watershed moments in Mexican gastronomy that gave

18

mechanisms for feeding people in need, and continuing their support presented at the Sustainable Education breakout session.

rise to the country’s unique culinary identity—an identity that had the

Luke Bergman Strikes Gold

United National Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization

You may remember Luke from last year’s Bocuse d’Or USA

(UNESCO) put on its World Heritage List. Iliana took the group on

competition at the CIA, where he came in second. Part of his prize

a culinary journey from the time of the conquistadors and Mexico’s

was the opportunity to compete at the Académie Culinaire de France

colonization by Spain to the modern era of independence and the

Trophée Passion in Paris last October. And compete he did—Luke,

revolution of 1910. In addition, she treated all participants to a

the sous chef at The Modern restaurant in New York City, took the

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

gold! The event was chaired by Thierry Marx, leader of the Mandarin

indigenous, sustainable ingredients from the Hudson Valley. And

Oriental in Paris. Thanks to the unique and personal touch that he

the green theme even extended to the magnificent display. From the

brought to his dishes—a Prodemar™ turbot with three different sauces

table materials to the use of a live tree, everything was created in an

and a dessert using Valrhona, Grand Marnier Cordon Rouge, and

environmentally conscious way.

biscuits—Luke beat out 10 other candidates from Argentina, Australia, Belgium, Canada, Colombia, Spain, France, Great Britain, Mauritius, and Mexico.

Three Stars for Alinea The Michelin guide has turned its critical eye on the windy city of Chicago. In its inaugural edition, it awarded stars to 23 restaurants,

The peanut-shaped table on which the food was presented was fashioned out of compostable, recyclable, and reusable material— recycled corrugated cardboard. A ticker-tape-style trim edged its way around the table and sported theme-related messages. From a remarkable bakery display that included a forest floor scene made completely from bread to a chocolate display that drew inspiration from the driftwood found on the banks of the Hudson River abutting

with only two of them garnering the coveted three-star rating. Alinea,

the Hyde Park campus, creativity was abundant.

the much-touted restaurant owned by Grant Achatz ’94, was awarded

The effort, cohesiveness of theme, and absolutely exquisite execution

that recognition. Upon hearing the news, Grant said, “To me it’s a

resulted in the CIA sweeping the awards. They included:

lifelong dream. I grew up in this business listening to Thomas (Keller) and Charlie (Trotter) wax poetic about the greatness of three-star restaurants in the world. And it was like, man, if these people, my mentors, hold it that dear, it becomes your goal as a chef. That said, I was worried.” Congratulations, Grant!

Chef John Reilly ’88 won Best in Show, Fish Platter Chef David Kamen ’88 won Best in Show, Meat Platter Chef Hans Welker won Best in Show, Bakery Display Chef David Bruno ’88 won Gold for fish

CIA Sweeps Culinary Arts Awards

Chef Howie Velie won Gold for vegetarian

The Société Culinaire Philanthropique’s 142nd Salon of Culinary

Chef Kate Cavotti won Gold for wedding cake

Art and Exhibition held during the International Hotel/Motel & Restaurant Show in New York was the CIA’s time to shine. The combined efforts of 10 CIA faculty members assisted by 30 students

Chef Peter Greweling won Gold for chocolate work Chef Joseph Utera won Gold for centerpiece

created a green-themed entry. The food was prepared using local,

Putting the finishing touches on display centerpiece

mise en place no.55, March 2011

19

The Wisconsin Cheese Tour Or, How CIA Instructors Spent Their Summer Vacation

By Shelly Loveland

L

ast summer, CIA faculty development took a decidedly cheesy turn. It was during the July 2010 break when more than a dozen chef-instructors, front-of-the-house faculty, and staff from the Hyde Park campus flew to Wisconsin for a private, no-holds-barred culinary tour of producers of the state’s most famous food.

The educational event was spearheaded and hosted by Sara Hill ’77, the culinary manager for cheese education at the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board in Madison, WI. For four heavenly days, the participants toured producers and dairy farms, sampled the area’s restaurants, and ate altogether too much cheese. This is their story.

Why did you go on the Wisconsin Milk Board tour?

Bruce Lavender ’82: To educate myself about the Wisconsin

cheese industry and artisanal cheeses.

Lynne Gigliotti ’87: Because I have had a lifelong love affair

with cheese. The more I know, the more I can convey to my students—that, and I want my third husband to be made of cheese!

20

Doug Miller ’89: To see cheese making and get a better

understanding of how to make cheese.

Tama Murphy: In Continuing Education, we do a lot of

cheese lectures in both the classes for professionals and the food enthusiast programs. And, I am a cheese-a-holic…

John Kowalski ’77: I went to learn more about cheese mak-

ing and the equipment used, and to see the cheese being aged in caves as it should be.

Heather Kolakowski ’02: In the American Bounty Restau-

rant, where I am the front-of-the-house instructor, we offer a cheese course tableside. I wanted to learn more about cheese production so I could bring that knowledge back to the students. Plus, I love cheese.

John Fischer ’88: Because I wrote a book about cheese and

everybody would have made fun of me if I didn’t go. Okay, it’s because I wanted to learn more about cheese making in America, and to see operations of different sizes. Also, I desperately wanted to meet the makers (I love me those Gingriches!) of my favorite cheese, Pleasant Ridge Reserve.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

How did this trip impact you professionally?

you also get more in debt.

Fischer: I am deeply thankful for having had the opportunity to meet

Gigliotti: The sheer amount of artisanal and farmstead cheese makers in Wisconsin. No wonder they consider themselves cheese heads!

the people who are making some of the best cheeses in the country right now. Although I’m not currently teaching the subject of cheese, I have a more profound understanding of what makes cheeses different, and what the most important details of production are.

Miller: I lecture about cheese every block and the trip gave me a more in-depth perspective and broader knowledge base on cheese.

What really impacted me is that cheese making is a labor of love. It is not a financially lucrative business and it is a lot of hard work.

Gigliotti: This trip reinforced my love of cheese as the star, not just

Fischer: Well, I couldn’t believe how little cheese Little Willi makes.

But I think that the general truism “10 pounds of milk to make one pound of cheese” will stick with me.

Kolakowski: Ninety percent of the milk from Wisconsin cows is used

to make cheese. And Wisconsin produces nearly 26% of all domestic cheese.

Lavender: The cheese maker who ran his factory at off-hours to

an ingredient. I can share my new knowledge of the cheese-making process with my students and hopefully incorporate it into the Garde Manger and Cuisines of the Mediterranean courses.

save money on his electric bill. The rotational grazing practices that Uplands employs. The ingenuity of using an underground bunker to age cheese.

Kolakowski: I make sure we offer the Pleasant Ridge Reserve

Any anecdotes or “ah-ha” moments?

from Uplands Dairy on our cart, as I thought it was one of the best cheeses we tasted. And I use the video Sara gave us in lecture to show the students how cheese is made.

Miller: It is interesting how much milk and cheese is a part of the Wisconsin culture. Everyone eats cheese in the state.

Kolakowski: I love my Wisconsin cheese beer cozy that I won when

Murphy: There was lots of information we can incorporate into our

we had the cheese trivia game on the bus the last day! lectures and course materials. Although other countries have outMurphy: All the cheese makers are passionate standing cheeses, it was very educational to learn about their product; however, from a business perabout the breadth and depth of cheese styles and spective, they all have their own unique strategy types that are produced in the U.S. And, of course, and approach. Some are concerned with organic Wisconsin is a major contributor to If you would like to sample some of and sustainable products; others are charged with Wisconsin’s best for yourself, here that industry. are the stops from “CIA Faculty and appreciate mass manufacturing for global Wisconsin Cheese Tour 2010”: Kowalski: We make fresh cheese on day 10 in the markets. They also show great respect and support Garde Manger course. Now I will be able to give for the other cheese manufacturers, dairy farmers, Bleu Mont Dairy the students more first-hand, in-depth information and cheese stores.

Blue Spoon Café on how cheese is handled. Since the trip, I have Fischer: Walking into the smear-washing room for Carr Valley Cheese begun to use cheese more, especially the artisanal Limburger at Chalet Cheese Co-op was actually ones made in the U.S. Chalet Cheese a “NUH-UH” moment. I’ve never encountered a Edelweiss Creamery Lavender: I think what impacted me most was the smell that intense and overpowering in my life... sheer quality and expert craftsmanship I found and I’m not sure I ever want to smell it again.

Fromagination with Wisconsin cheese. I have already brought Hook’s Cheese Company Kowalski: John Fischer in a hair net. I have pieces of this trip into my classroom. pictures.

Quivey’s Grove

Take Your Own Tour

Is there a particular fact or figure that impressed you?

Murphy: That Wisconsin produces more than 25%

of all the cheese in the U.S.!

Miller: That it takes about 10 pounds of milk to

yield one pound of cheese.

Kowalski: The volume of cheese that is produced

on a farm. Plus the fact that the price of milk has not changed in 30 years, so in order to make money you need to become bigger, but that means

mise en place no.55, March 2011

Roelli Cheese Haus

Gigliotti: My “ah-ha” moment was realizing how

Roth Kase

much cheese one single person can consume in one day!

Sardine restaurant Sassy Cow Creamery Sprecher Brewing Company

To learn more about Wisconsin cheese, visit the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board at www.eatwisconsincheese.com.

Uplands Cheese Company Wollersheim Winery Just remember to pace yourself!

Shelly Loveland is a writer/editor in the CIA’s Marketing Department.

21

With Age Comes Character We all know that getting older

the weight of the wine on one’s

isn’t all bad—the accumulation

palate and the wine’s viscosity.

of knowledge, wisdom, and

Alcohol has also been used as a

experience more than make up for

preservative for hundreds of years,

that lost extra step on the tennis

and it still does the trick in a bottle

or basketball court. Well, age has

of wine. You may not have realized

its benefits in other areas as well,

it, but Port, Sherry, and Madeira

especially in the worlds of wine and

are all fortified wines, meaning

cheese. I would be remiss if I failed

that alcohol is added during the

to mention, though, that older wines

winemaking process. Historically,

and cheeses are not automatically

they added alcohol to ensure that

better than younger versions;

the wines would be able to survive

it’s a matter of personal taste.

a long sea voyage in decent shape.

Their relative scarceness bestows commodity status on many bottles of mature Bordeaux and wheels of aged Parmigiano-Reggiano.

And some people won’t ever enjoy these foodstuffs if their tastes lean towards fresh and clean flavors. But let’s see what goes on inside the bottle and within the rind as time goes by that gives them character and makes them worth a try.

Wine There are potentially three elements that are part of the wine’s flavor profile and also act as preservatives: acid, alcohol, and tannin.

Tannins are complex polyphenolic compounds found in the skins, seeds, and stems of a grape, and are responsible for the mouthfeel of a wine—especially the drying sensation you get from a young, dark red wine. They also preserve wine, and as they slowly break down (actually, polymerize) with time, they become part of the wine’s bouquet—the complex and deep aromas that develop with age.

So why does any of this matter? Almost all of the wine made on this planet is meant for immediate consumption, with a small percentage being considered “ageable.” Americans buy a lot of wine that could be aged, partly because we feel comfortable

Acid helps to keep the wine from oxidizing; think of lemon juice

purchasing wines with high ratings from Wine Spectator magazine

on apple slices. Different acids abound in wine, depending on how

and Robert Parker. The most highly rated wines tend to be more

it’s made, but malic acid dominates. It is one of the acids in sour

expensive and more age-worthy. We also like to drink these wines

apples, and is sometimes controlled with the use of malolactic

because young wines have brighter, fresher fruit flavors, and are

(ML) fermentation, which tames the tartness but also reduces the

cleaner tasting. Alternatively, aged wines may have lost the blush

preservational potential. This fermentation can occur naturally,

of youth, but the tannins have softened and the bouquets have

but is usually induced in all red wines and some whites, like the

developed to their full potential.

Chardonnay.

Alcohol helps to create the body of a wine, which translates into

22

By John Fischer ’88

So, young wines are more affordable and fresher tasting, aged wines (because of their rarity) are higher-priced and more

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

subtle in their presentation. As you may

ever drink. Cheese—once discovered—could keep those vital calories

have guessed, Americans prefer fresh and

viable for a longer time than fresh milk. Making cheese was a means

affordable. Aged wines should be suitably

of preserving and extending the milk.

stored, but how many of us have that? Not me…I have a wine basement, not a cellar.

Now, milk fresh from the udder has an enormous amount of living bacteria in it, almost all of which is beneficial. They are referred to

If you have decided to go with an aged

as starter bacteria, in that they are in the milk when you start making

bottle of wine, you might be wondering

the cheese. These bacteria produce a great number of chemical

what to serve with it. Remember, well-

compounds as they respire, and some of them are enzymes that

aged wines have lost the brashness of

can eventually break down fat and protein molecules into smaller,

has little or

youth and acquired a subtle complexity

aromatic compounds. This happens over time, which explains why

no tannin in

of aroma and texture. The food should be

young cheeses are rather bland, and older ones can get downright

selected with that in mind.

“funky.” It also explains why cheese from raw milk is prized—

Because white wine

it (tannins

I have read in many places and heard

reside with

from a lot of fellow professionals that the choice to pair with an old Bordeaux

the color compounds in the

pasteurization kills off bacteria so there are fewer left to do the job of flavor making.

One other factor that changes a cheese’s flavor over time is

is simply roasted chicken. The idea

moisture loss. Just as a sauce will get more intense as it’s reduced,

is for the dish not to upstage, but

the evaporation of water from a wheel of Gruyère leads to a more

grape’s skin), whites tend

rather to serve as a frame for, the art that sits in the glass. You

concentrated flavor. So the aging of cheese runs in the opposite direction from that of wine—the cheese will gain power as it matures.

can take that basic principle

This also means that accompaniments for older cheeses need to

and run with it, choosing to

be able to keep up. Whereas the natural choice of wine for fresh

There are a few exceptions,

serve a simple white fish,

goat cheese would be a crisp Sancerre, a spoonful of Stilton begs

such as Grand Cru Chablis,

veal, or pork as the main

for a glass of vintage Port. Even the crackers and bread served

protein. You should avoid

with aged cheese should have more character; raisin-nut bread can

some German Rieslings,

strongly flavored or piquant

be a good choice, as well as crackers made with darker flours like

accompaniments. I would

pumpernickel. This is one place to avoid powerful, young tannic

and the best white sweet

not recommend chipotle

red wines, as much as that might seem the natural direction to

chicken wings for that ’90

head. This is the job for sweet wines, in that the rich mouthfeel and

not to get better with age.

wines like Sauterne—all of which have high acidity and great complexity. But most whites are meant for near-immediate consumption and few will get better beyond their fifth year in the bottle.

Latour in your cellar! You could also serve an aged wine with a relatively subtle cheese, which leads us to…

Old & Cheesy With the domestication of dairy animals a few thousand years ago, farmers ended up with more milk than their families could

mise en place no.55, March 2011

sweetness of a Sauterne or Tokai Aszu can calm the power of an aged cheese’s flavor, and also provide a sweet contrast to the saltiness of, say, Roquefort.

So even though it would have made for a happy ending to see the perfectly aged Sbrinz walking into the sunset with a ’90 Clos Vougeot, it would be doing them both a disservice. Instead, make a meal out of it and serve the aged Vougeot with a simply roasted Pintade, and the mature Sbrinz for dessert with a sweet Vendange Tardive Gewürztraminer from Alsace. Everybody, especially you, will be happy.

John Fischer is associate professor in hospitality and service management at the CIA.

Raw-milk cheeses are available in the United States, but they must be aged for a minimum of 60 days.

23

How the Worlds of Flavor: Japan

Changed My World

By Brigid K. Ransome

This year it was all about Japan. And the most riveting part of the

cutting edge mores of the conference’s host state of California against

Worlds of Flavor International Conference & Festival at the Greystone

the richly traditional and conventional philosophy of kaiseki, Kurisu

campus was prefaced with a daring disclaimer—“It’s not something that

tempered both culinary and cultural extremes in a way no one

can be taught.” As a student, I’ve heard those words before, or at least

expected. And presenting that to a group that is not easily wowed—

some variant of them, from people who insist that they are singular in

the gatekeepers of all things food—his demo was a wild success. The

their craft. Usually that phrase

Ventura Center at Greystone

is posed as either a challenge or

was pin-drop quiet as he

a rebuke. But when a chef whose

methodically plated the lobster,

Michelin-starred restaurant has

the quintessential symbol

a lineage fit for a crest speaks

for long life and celebration

those words, they are heavy and

in Japan. In this case, it also

hammer into the very core of my

served as a representation of

culinary passion.

the Golden Gate Bridge. In a lighthearted move, a skillfully

Mashahiro Kurisu is the chef and

cut piece of vegetable, which

director of Tankuma Kitamise,

seemed like an outlier on the

whose one-star Michelin

plate, was used to symbolize

restaurant in Kyoto specializes

Alcatraz Island. The chef

in kaiseki. He also has a

continued to employ different

location in Tokyo. At this year’s

ingredients to depict key

conference, Chef Kurisu gave

components of life on the

an impassioned demonstration

West Coast. It was humbling

of kaiseki; a highly formalized

to watch him do two things

meal that is anchored in its

at once without compromise.

artistic tribute to nature and the

The manner in which he fused

“24 seasons” of Japan. Since the

two cultures, which are worlds

1700s, kaiseki has evolved from

apart, into the idiom of kaiseki

an exquisite tea ceremony to an

emboldened and humbled me.

unrivaled culinary adventure.

Seeing food come alive in a

The use of flawlessly fresh

way that told a story of human

and local ingredients woos

experience, and hearing his

diners into an almost spiritual

remarks on the significance

experience, where both food and

of plating, redefined my

art share the plate perfectly.

means to serve food. According to Chef Kurisu, that’s exactly the goal.

that this was the first time I was being introduced to the practice

“In kaiseki you need to tell a big story,” he explained.

of kaiseki, but as the demo continued I realized why. Unlike the “sushification” that has fully circled the globe, kaiseki remains strategically aloof from Westernized culinary culture. Inspired by the indomitable spirit of the Japanese, kaiseki is a culinary heirloom and the practice of it remains exclusive to them. It is a mysterious art that they will proudly showcase, but never share—and rightfully so.

Chef Kurisu did something truly mystical. By contrasting the trendy,

24

perception of what it really

During the demo, every part of me was fully engaged. I was surprised

I always knew plating was important and an invaluable aspect of what we are taught here as rising culinary professionals at the CIA, but what I saw wasn’t simply plating. It was technical ingenuity with the palate as client. I’m certain that the next time I serve food I will remember the lessons of Chef Kurisu and the valued traditions of kaiseki, even if that plate is “only” a popular lamb burger from K-16.

Brigid Ransom is a CIA student.

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

Book Shelf Cooking for One

My Sweet Mexico

By Mark Erickson ’77

By Fany Gerson ’98

and Lisa Erickson ’79

While there are

Cooking for one can be

countless cookbooks

simple and easy. Chefs

about Mexican food,

Mark and Lisa Erickson

very little has been

apply their passion for

written about the vast

food and professional

and varied world of

experience to create

Mexican desserts.

the satisfying,

In My Sweet Mexico,

healthy, flavorful

Mexican native

meals shared in

and New York resident

this book. They offer simple, practical strategies and techniques for shopping and menu planning that will

Fany Gerson explores the history behind the familiar landmark Mexican staples. She explains the significance of unfamiliar ingredients and provides modern twists

help you get the most from the ingredients you buy. You’ll find recipes

on old favorites. You’ll enjoy recipes for such delights as chestnut

for easy-to-prepare desserts, pizzas, and savory soufflés, as well as

flan, sweet fried masa cakes, dead man’s bread, cheesecake with

global dishes such as Asian-inspired fish and noodle recipes, Indian

spice quince, mango bread pudding with tamarind sauce, and

curry, and Vietnamese salad rolls. Cooking for one will soon become

hibiscus ice pops. Delicioso!

cooking for fun.

The Complete Idiot’s Guide® to Easy Artisan Bread

By Yvonne Ruperti ’95 Did you know that the earliest cookbooks didn’t have bread recipes listed in them because they

Exploring Wine, 3rd Edition

By Steve Kolpan, Brian Smith, and Michael Weiss Completely revised and updated, this new edition of the critically acclaimed guide

were protected by

features more

special bread guilds?

comprehensive

Well, the secret is out and made easy to follow with this delightful book for the aspiring baker in your life. The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Easy Artisan Bread provides everything you need to know to make delicious bread from scratch. It has more than 80 recipes for boules, bagels, sandwich breads, focaccia, rolls, and more. Also included is a primer on flours, sweeteners, leaveners, and other essential bread-baking ingredients. Illustrations help the baking beginner envision each step along the way.

mise en place no.55, March 2011

coverage of the wine regions of the world, grape varietals, winemaking, purchasing, tasting, service, and pairing. The expanded food and wine pairing section explains why particular wines and foods pair well with each other. The book includes informative charts, tables, maps, and beautiful full-color photographs. Expanded, revised, and better than ever, Exploring Wine is a comprehensive resource and ideal companion for wine lovers and students alike.

25

Hiring the Best

Interviewing Candidates in a Buyer’s Market

By Tama Murphy, CHE, CCP, CMP, CCSP Today’s economy has produced a “buyer’s market” for employers

to the candidate. And it certainly does a disservice to you and

who have open positions. On the surface, this looks like a good

your organization. A bad hiring decision can be very costly; both

problem to have. After all, you can get more for your money!

in terms of the time, money, and energy you invest in recruiting,

However, with the market saturated with talented people looking

training, and managing that person, as well as the potential for

for jobs, the hiring process can be daunting.

reduced morale of other staff and unhappy customers.

Preparation is the key to selecting the candidate who will best

So prepare for that all-important interview! Here are some

meet today’s needs and tomorrow’s strategic opportunities.

key steps:

Ultimately, you want to surround yourself with passionate

1. Thoroughly read the job description and hiring criteria. What

employees who provide the best products and services for your

knowledge, skills, and abilities are necessary to be successful in

customers and maximize profits for your business. So in the

the position?

interviewing process, you want to be on the lookout for people who have the right combination of “can do” and “will do.”

candidate has submitted, including résumé, cover letter, and application. Make notes where you’d like clarification,

“Can do” factors include

such as gaps in job history,

the knowledge, skills, and

interesting job titles, and

experience the candidate

inconsistent career focus.

brings to the table. The

3. Establish a structure for

“will do” qualities relate

the interview. Develop a list

to the individual’s desire,

of standard questions you

willingness, and attitude

will ask every candidate.

towards performing the

This ensures consistency

job. You want people

and fairness in the decision-

who are both technically

making process and helps

capable of doing the job

you focus on what is truly

and enthusiastic about the

important for success in

position; otherwise, you

the position.

are potentially hiring a

4. Schedule a time and place

problem employee.

for the interview. Make sure

Preparing for the Interview Your ability to get the

you allocate enough time and that there will be no interruptions.

process depends on how

Let the Interviews Begin

prepared you are. Some

Now you’re ready to start

managers just “wing it”—

the actual interviews. There

but this is dangerous. First

are generally three parts:

of all, it is disrespectful

the introduction (or warm-

most out of the interview

26

2. Review all paperwork the

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

up), information gathering, and the closing. The warm-up helps put the candidate at ease. As part of your introduction, make sure you convey what your role is and how it relates to the position that’s open.

Explain what your organization does and how the job fits into the goals and objectives. The introduction should be insightful but brief; after all, you want to spend the majority of the time learning about the

• What skills would you like to improve?

If the answer you’re given to a question doesn’t elicit the information you’re looking for, don’t be afraid to continue probing. For example, if the candidate states that he saved the company money on a project, ask how much and how those savings were achieved.

applicant.

Wrap It Up

Questions, Questions

At the end of the interview, give the prospect a chance to ask

The heart of the interview is information gathering. Since this phase of the interview is critical to your decision-making process, you need to make every question count—and that means if a question has no strategic significance, don’t bother asking it. It’s also vital that all questions you ask be legal and not offend the individual. Equal Employment Opportunity laws prohibit discrimination against applicants on the basis of age, race, religion, sex, disability, or national origin. So the best way to avoid legal pitfalls is to ask only questions that are job-related and will help you assess a candidate’s

questions—remember, he or she is interviewing you, too. You’ll find that these questions are very revealing, as well as a good way of determining if the applicant is truly interested in the position or just needs a job.

A good technique for closing the interview is to summarize. By repeating the candidate’s strengths and weaknesses and reasons for wanting the job, you let him or her know you are a good listener and care about hiring the most qualified person for the position.

This also gives the candidate the opportunity to clear up any

qualifications, skills, and things like maturity level and willingness to

misunderstandings.

accept responsibility.

In addition, make the applicant aware of the next step in the interview

Using a structured approach for the interview ensures consistency

process. Will there be another interview? Are there additional forms

and allows you to compare candidates against the same criteria. It’s also helpful in maintaining control of the interview if the candidate

or tests that need to be taken? Besides being a courtesy, discussing the next step also emphasizes the importance of the hiring decision to

is chatty or likes to go off on tangents. Apply the same method of

your business.

questioning to all applicants and use open-ended questions to probe

End the interview on a formal note by standing and shaking the

for “who, what, when, where, why, and how” answers. Here are a few

individual’s hand and thanking him or her. This lets the candidate

examples:

know the session is formally ended and gives the signal that it’s time

• Tell me a little about yourself.

to leave.

• What do you know about our organization and why do you want to work here?

• What is appealing about this position? What skills and strengths can you bring to it?

• Tell me about your favorite boss. What attributes do you hope your new manager will have?

• What aspect of your work life are you most passionate about?

• What skills do you bring to this job that will make you successful?

• Who and what have motivated you in the past?

• Why did you leave your last position?

• What are you most proud of in your career?

• Tell me about a time when you made a mistake. How did you handle it? What did you learn from it?

• Tell me about an important decision you made.

• Can you give me an example of how you handled a workplace conflict in the past?

• Tell me about a time you pulled a team together to produce solid

Document, Decide, and You’re Done There’s one last step that’s critical to making your hiring decision a good one: document your interview findings. Documenting the interview provides proof that your decision was based on legitimate criteria and not factors that can be construed as discriminatory. Most important, by using a standard form that is completed after each interview, you’ll have ready access to the details about each candidate when it’s final decision time. This is especially helpful when you have a lot of candidates to choose from. Remember that buyer’s market?

By objectively comparing everyone’s documented skills, abilities, and qualifications, you ensure that you’re selecting the best candidate for the position—and your organization’s future.

Tama Murphy is director of certification and training at The Culinary Institute of America and is a certified culinary professional and certified culinary sales professional. Feel free to contact her at t_murphy@culinary.edu.

results.

mise en place no.55, March 2011

27

Aramark • Sodexo Delaware North Companies Belize Tourism Board Campbell Soup Company Pinnacle Entertainment Runaway Bay Heart Training Center U.S. Air Force • U.S. Marine Corps

Their Chefs are ProChefs.

Are Yours?

The competition is here to stay—and that means you need culinary professionals on your team who can take on any challenge the industry serves up.

www.ciaprochef.com/prochef 1-888-367-7131

So how do you prepare your chefs to lead? In two words: ProChef® Certification.

ProChef develops and tests their skills at three industry-recognized levels of excellence. Your chefs will gain a new perspective on the culinary arts—and you’ll grow the talent you need to be the best.

ProChef Certification—The Standard for Excellence

28

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

Hobart and the CIA…in the Mix

By Felicia Zammit

When you think of something “getting better with age,” you might

logo showcased on the many products they have provided. “A strong

imagine great wine or a wonderfully aromatic cheese. Most likely

working relationship between the two entities just makes good sense,”

you haven’t thought about a kitchen full of foodservice equipment.

says Mr. Hynes. “We have always believed that part of the culinary

However, Hobart Corporation has, indeed, gotten better with age.

working environment at the CIA should include providing the students

With over 110 years of experience providing equipment and service

opportunities to work on the best state-of-the-art equipment, and we

to the foodservice and food retail industries, Hobart has earned a

do our best to make that a reality.” Jim DeJoy, manager of Gift-In-

reputation as a leader in delivering products designed and built to the

Kind for the CIA, echoes those sentiments. “Working with Hobart has

highest possible standards of performance, quality, and durability. It’s

been a win-win for both parties. We’ve had the opportunity to have

a reputation that has withstood the test of time.

their quality products in our teaching kitchens, while giving Hobart

One of Hobart’s biggest markets is the healthcare sector, which has provided the company with tremendous opportunity for growth.

“For the past nine years, I have had the pleasure of working closely with both the acute and long-term care components of the healthcare

the opportunity to get their products in front of thousands of future customers each day. What the students use in the classroom are what students want after they graduate. It’s been a pleasure working with Hobart and we look forward to building on that relationship.”

industry,” says Dick Hynes, director of consultant services and

Most recently Hobart worked very closely with the CIA on the new

healthcare for Hobart. “The changes in this market segment are

San Antonio campus. Mr. Hynes states, “Over the years, we’ve had the

constant and will continue as the new National Healthcare Program

opportunity to work with some amazing people at the CIA. I only see

is implemented. More and more chefs are finding the healthcare

our relationship becoming stronger in the coming years, as we work

market a great venue for them to develop new menus with great eye

together on some exciting new projects.” It is a relationship that is

appeal, nutritional value, and great taste. To be able to participate in

getting better with age.

this transition, even in a small way, has been very rewarding to me.”

Hobart provides facilities with traditional ware washing, refrigeration,

Felicia Zammit is a CIA advancement officer.

and food machines such as ovens and food processors—all vital equipment needed to service hundreds of people every day.

Hobart’s role in helping the CIA provide students with the world’s best culinary education began more than 30 years ago, and continues to this day. Mr. Hynes explains, “From my first cold call those many years ago, I knew this was an organization with which Hobart needed to be working closely. There was, and is, an aura about the place. The quality of the students prepared by the CIA is superb. There was no question that we needed to partner closely with the college.”

Walk into any of the kitchens in any of our three campuses and you’ll see the familiar Hobart

hobarts at work in CIA kitchens

mise en place no.55, March 2011

29

Why Give?

Candice (Malk) Wolk ’96 Member, CIA Society of Fellows What Motivates You to Give?

How Do You Give?

I have always believed that for me, it is a luxury to say, “I am

I try to give both my time and philanthropically to several

having a bad day.” I can say it because you know tomorrow or

different causes. Although I no longer cook professionally, I give

the day after will be better. For millions of people that luxury

back in ways that reflect my love for food and the industry. I

doesn’t exist.

have been involved with the largest Massachusetts organic farm

What Makes Giving Meaningful?

When I graduated from the CIA there were days when I would pass a homeless person and, although I may have only had a couple of dollars on me, I gave it to them. I could always work more, earn more, save more, and withdraw more. None of those statements could be said for them. The most meaningful thing for me about giving is knowing I can help. I think there are so many ways to make a difference, whether by volunteering your time, thinking of ways to improve existing programs, or giving

that grows the produce used in many of the food shelter kitchens around Boston. I have helped support a nutritional cookbook with recipes built on sustainable nutritional values that can be prepared in low-income housing situations, where sometimes the only tools for food preparation are a bathroom sink and a microwave. And I have helped to host private dinners with celebrity chefs, where 100% of the proceeds go to the homeless. Most recently, my husband Howard and I became members of the CIA Society of Fellows. For our anniversary, Howard gave a gift in my name to support the Chefs in Community Service organization at the CIA.

financially.

30

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

Giving’s Impact

Christian S. E. Hanrahan Teaching Assistant–Jones Dairy Farm Kitchen, AOS in Culinary Arts ’09, BPS in Culinary Arts Management ’11 (anticipated)

every three weeks and the pressure of producing 400–600 meals

Recipient Jones Dairy Farm Scholarship

I enjoy hiking and camping, and am an Eagle Scout. Becoming

The Beginning

is food, learning about everything from cheese to charcuterie. I

I grew up as the oldest of eight children in a food-centric family,

being 16-year-old Lagavulin single malt. I also enjoy playing video

and my fondest memories have always included substantial

games—I always find time for that!

amounts of food. During high school, I worked in the kitchens of the Legal Sea Foods restaurant chain. I loved the heat and action of a professional kitchen, so attending The Culinary Institute of America was a natural next step for me.

in a one-hour lunch period—that’s six meals a second! The high expectation of employee performance thrilled me and was a reaffirmation of why I chose culinary arts as my profession.

Outside Interest/Hobbies an Eagle Scout taught me to always be prepared—sounds just like mise en place—and to value what I have. My passion really consider myself a Scotch and Whisky connoisseur, my favorite

Hopes for the Future My professional goal is to eventually found and operate a restaurant in the Greater Boston area. I think Boston is in the early

College Highlight

stages of blossoming into its own as a restaurant destination city.

The highlight of my time at the CIA was working as a teaching

The Impact

assistant (TA) in the Quantity Food Production class in the Jones Dairy Farm Kitchen. Working there was one of the greatest educational experiences of my life and the coolest job I ever had.

It presented unique challenges such as the 100% turnover of staff

mise en place no.55, March 2011

Receiving the Jones Dairy Farm Scholarship is a blessing and basically covered the expenses of my BPS degree. Without it, I would have had to work at least 35 hours a week, and now I can dedicate that time to my studies.

31

Alumni Council Corner Council Welcomes Two New Members Robert Kabakoff ’86 and Brad LaBel ’97 are the two newest members to join the Alumni Council. Elected this past October during the CIA’s Annual Meeting, they joined a group of 17 dedicated volunteers. Led by new Council Chair Dale Miller ’79, these two alumni will help create programs to support your alumni network of more than 40,000 members.

Robert is owner and director of culinary operations at White Chocolate Grill, which has locations in Denver, CO; Phoenix, AZ; and Naperville, IL. As an active alumni volunteer, he is a mentor, a host mentor, a Career Fair recruiter, an externship site host, and an Admissions volunteer. Robert is a member of both the Society of Fellows and the Society of the Millennium—comprised of those who have provided in their estate for the CIA. Robert has created two scholarships to benefit students on all three campuses.

As the president of LaBel Foodservice Equipment & Design in New York, Brad develops new foodservice projects from start to finish. His areas of expertise include designing restaurants, corporate and school cafeterias, hotel and catering kitchens, and gourmet grocery stores. Brad is a member of the Society of Fellows and created the Alumni Marketplace Scholarship to benefit students interested in careers in restaurant design.

Welcome Robert and Brad!

Interested in learning more about the Council? Want to get involved? Please contact the Alumni Relations Office at 845 451-1401 or alumni@culinary.edu.

’51

Benjamin Stanley Bludnicki graduated from

the CIA’s New Haven campus in January

’69

John P. Christman retired

Club. Priscilla is director, quality process

from Hy-Vee Grocery in

improvement at Poudre Valley Health

Kansas City, MO.

System.

changed careers and became a motor vehicle driver for the U.S. Postal Service.

He retired from that job after 30 years.

’62

’71

Michael Devine retired from the U.S. Navy Subma-

the summer of 2010 at a camp in New

various foodservice positions culminated

Hampshire. He demonstrated how to make whole wheat bread in a Dutch oven

USS Alabama. Socrates Inonog is a

using charcoal as an energy source.

retired in December 2010

consultant for Island Pacific Supermarkets

After 20 years of working in

foodservice, he retired to join the fire department in Meriden, CT. Recently, he retired from that job after 25 years

in Panorama City, CA. He was the first Culinary Federation as a certified culinary educator (CCE) back in 1977.

’74

’77

Michael Lynch was recently named 2010 ProStart® Teacher

of the Year by the New York State Restaurant Association Educational Foundation.

Michael has taught culinary arts in the

Norman Nuwash and his

New York City schools for 18 years and

wife Priscilla Nuwash ’74

was cited for his outstanding connection

were in the very first class to begin at the

with students, which results in their suc-

ambulance company doing medical livery

Hyde Park campus. Norman is general

cessful test scores.

and would love to get in touch with his

manager of the Fort Collins Country

of service. He now works with his local

1968 classmates.

32

with the Boy Scouts during

rine Force. His 31 years of active duty in

person to be certified by the American

’68

’75

Raymond Joyner worked

in his becoming Chief of the Boat for the

Bill Grella has retired twice!

for The Barbeque Chef Inc.

World Barbeque Competition Team

Lawrence E. Murphy, Sr.

after 48 years in the foodservice industry.

Thomas Ingalls is pit master

He was given the 2010 United States/

1951 with a degree in commercial baking.

He worked for one year as a baker, then

’78

Leader Award by the New York State Buffalo Stampede Barbeque Challenge Inc., a registered charity and not-for-profit in New York.

’79

Lisa Drost is currently the office manager at The

Evergreen School in Seattle, WA. Jeffrey Alexander Melkonian participated in a 100-mile cycling event on October 31, 2010 to benefit the Leukemia and Lymphoma Foundation’s research arm.

’81

Michael McCaffrey is executive chef for The Goldminer’s

Daughter Lodge in Alta, UT. He has a daughter Chelsea and a granddaughter Keyrstin.

’82

John Scott Pierce II is chef/

the Navy, Air Force, Marines, and Coast

owner of Chateau Country

Guard. Robert Masullo, chef/owner of

Caterers, LLC, which was voted #1 cater-

Masullo in Sacramento, CA, was featured

er in Germantown, TN from 2006–2010.

in the pizza edition of Popular Plates

John has a new granddaughter named

magazine. Robert is married and has a

Addison.

two-year-old son. Maureen Timmons is the director of dining services for North-

’85

(Gordon) Scott Philip is chef/owner of Hurricane Cafe

in Juno Beach, FL. The café was Zagatrated “excellent” from 2004–2010 and “best value” in 2009. In addition, Scott was named “small businessman of the year” in 2004 by Palm Beach County.

eastern University in Boston. She recently received a “Best Concepts Award” for Best New Facility from Food Management magazine.

’93

William Clifford is executive chef at Portland Harbor

Hotel in Portland, ME. He was one of

’87

Stephen Perkins is a culinary arts instructor for The

Culinary Institute of Virginia, which is part of ECPI College of Technology. In February 2010, he participated in tryouts for the Culinary Olympic team. He is also president of the Virginia Chefs Association of the ACF. Gary S. Toscano

three finalists competing for the title of

Art or Science—It’s Food!

Maine Lobster Chef of the Year 2010,

Is food art or is it science? Anyone who has plated a culinary

sponsored by the Maine Lobster Promo-

masterpiece or painstakingly followed a baking formula knows it’s

tion Council.

’94

both. And as someone who has made a career of combining the culinary arts with food science, CIA graduate and food scientist Dr.

Brian Beland successfully completed the grueling

eight-day exam to become one of only 66

Chris Loss ’93 has a unique perspective on the interplay between the two disciplines—and on why it’s important for busy chefs to

is assistant director of dining services for

Certified Master Chefs in the U.S. The

take the time to delve deeper into the science behind their cuisines.

Kirkland Village in Bethlehem, PA. He is

exam was held at the CIA’s Hyde Park

“Understanding the basic scientific principles underlying culinary

currently studying to become a Certified

campus. Philip Canapini is executive

methods will allow chefs to be more creative and authentic in their

Dietary Manager.

chef at the Trump National Golf Club in

cooking,” Chris says. “When chefs ask me why it’s important for them

Hudson Valley, NY.

’88

Robert Heenan is executive pastry chef for The Country

Club of Birmingham in Birmingham, AL.

’97

Edmund Pike never imagined being a stay-at-home dad

would enable him to use his training and

’90

Daniel Dumont and Robert Mancuso successfully

completed the grueling eight-day exam to become two of only 66 Certified Master Chefs in the U.S. The exam was held at the CIA’s Hyde Park campus.

’91

Dina Altieri is a chef instructor at Kendall College in

Chicago, IL. She was coach of the 2010 Kendall College ACF Knowledge Bowl Team National Champions.

mind. By creating his own paints, canvas, and brushes he was able to give greater depth and meaning to his creations. This deeper understanding of his medium made him the great artist we all know.

skills to cook for his four children. He

I believe that we in the food industry would also benefit from a more

loves it.

complete understanding of our medium, the ingredients we use, and how they interact.”

’98

Paul Clark is executive chef in the first-class lounge

at Philadelphia International Airport

It was the CIA’s AOS program that first turned Chris on to food science. And with the encouragement of several instructors, he

working for FLIK/British Airways.

headed to Cornell University in Ithaca, NY, where he earned his

Scott Jones is executive food and wine

doctorate, master’s, and bachelor’s degrees. In addition to his studies,

editor for Southern Living magazine in

he worked for a small contract R&D group as research assistant in

Birmingham, AL. Romeo Stivaletti is the executive chef for the Trump orga-

the Department of Food Science at Cornell. With the CIA since 2005,

nization. He advised contestants about

Chris is now director of menu research and development.

culinary situations during a food segment

Today, with funding granted through the CIA Menu Research and

of NBC’s Apprentice filmed at his Trump

’92

to understand food science, the artist Vincent Van Gogh comes to

Flavor Discovery Initiative and access to Vi Living’s adult residences

Sergeant 1st Class Rene

location. David A. Thorne is head chef

Marquis is an enlisted aide

for Dega Catering in Knoxville, TN. Prior

provided by CIA Fellow Don Clawson, Chris has embarked on a

for the U.S. Special Operations Com-

to that, he ran a local food delivery busi-

research project to characterize and gain insight into the food and

mand out of MacDill Air Force Base. He

ness in Alaska known as AK Root Sellers

dining preferences of seniors. Data from focus groups will help

was part of a two-man team that defend-

and a local food catering business called

ed the Army’s culinary crown and was

Delicious Dave.

guide the development of menu offerings and optimization of dining

subsequently named champions of the second Freedom Chef Challenge, held

ambiance. By taking a science-based approach, the CIA will gain valuable knowledge, which can then be translated by the foodservice

during the 2010 American Culinary Fed-

and hospitality industry into products and services for this rapidly

eration National Convention in Anaheim,

growing consumer demographic. It is Chris’s contention that

CA. He competed against teams from

“understanding scientific principles will help chefs better meet their customers’ needs.”

mise en place no.55, March 2011

33

’99

’08

Marc Dunham is director

met while attending the CIA, where they

recently received his Master’s degree in

of culinary arts at the Francis

both got their bachelor’s degrees. Merry

Hotel, Restaurant, and Institutional Man-

Tuttle Technology Center in Okalahoma

works for her family business, Big Apple

agement from Yonsei University in Seoul,

City, OK. Jason Zeller is executive chef

Finer Foods in Chicago. Rob works for

South Korea. He is junior director of the

Rise Namiki ’09, who also works at the

for The Hamlet Country Club in Delray

Compass Group as executive chef/man-

R&D team at Sunatfood, also in Seoul.

Ritz-Carlton along with many other CIA

Beach, FL, where he was instrumental

ager in corporate dining. They also own a

Derek A. Courtney has earned four

grads. John Jednak is chef at the Lamy

in a $10 million renovation that featured

catering business. Ji Cha is the owner of

ACF bronze medals—two in pastillage and

Station Café, a 1950s train dining car out

two new restaurants for the facility.

Chef Ji’s Moon Jar Restaurant in Fort Lee,

two in the hot food category. He recently

of Lamy, NM. Dennis Pitchford is ex-

NJ. She also works for Sysco Metro NY in

returned from Mallorca, Spain, where he

ecutive business development chef for the

Jersey City, NJ.

worked in Michelin-star Restaurant Buc-

Lincoln, Merrychef, and Merco brands of

chus as a commis chef. He is currently an

Manitowoc Foodservice. Blake Shepler

assistant pastry chef at Restaurant Avon-

is owner/executive chef of Roasted

dale in the Westin Riverfront Resort &

Mobile Bistro and Catering. Visit www.

Spa in Avon, CO. Edgar and Christina

roasted-houston.com to see what he’s up

(Milian) Torres, who met the first day

to. Ross Warhol took a leave of absence

of classes at the CIA, have two handsome

from his position as executive chef at the

boys ages one and three, and recently

Atheneum Hotel in Chautauqua, NY to

opened Zandunga Mexican Bistro in

take on a 13-month internship under Chef

Austin, TX. Their sous chef is Nathan

Ferran Adrià at El Bulli in Roses, Spain.

Powers ’04.

Ross met Chef Albert Adrià at the World

’00

Matthew Kallinikos opened the Carter Green

Steakhouse at the Island View Casino Resort in Gulfport, MS, in June 2010. He has competed and medaled in over 20

’03

Dennis Friedman is chef/ owner of BEZU Restaurant in

Potomac, MD. He recently won the 2010

ACF events, most recently winning gold

Mason/Dixon Master Chef Tournament—

in the June 2010 Culinary Classic. Laura

a multi-week, single-elimination event

Ann Nedich Kenya is executive pastry

designed to showcase the Baltimore

chef at the Essex Spa and Resort in Essex,

metropolitan area’s finest chefs and

VT. She got married in September 2010.

restaurants. Audrey Jones Spence is

Jeremy Patrick is owner of Hawg Wild

corporate sous chef for Tom Douglas

BBQ at Catfish House in Clarkesville,

Restaurants in Seattle, WA. She also was

GA.

recently married. Lori Vrazel has won several awards for her cakes, including a

’01

William Abbott is a semiretired, self-employed caterer.

He won the 2010 Trapiche Wine Grill-Off Recipe Competition in Orlando, FL, for his original chili marinated flank steak recipe. While at the CIA, he was known

’05

Kayla Roche is executive chef for The Golden Door in

Escondido, CA. Jason Seidel is cook

Competition in Mississippi.

at BC’s Kitchen in Lake St. Louis, MO, which is owned by Bill Cardwell ’71.

’04

sommelier/wine director for

Michy’s in Miami, FL. She was named

by his group members as “group daddy”

one of the “7 Best New Sommeliers of

because of his age. Robert Bischak

2010” in the October 2010 issue of Wine

was married to fellow CIA grad Merry

& Spirits magazine. Hyun Jung Choi

at the Ritz-Carlton Kapalua

in Maui. In May 2010, Jonathan married

Pastry Forum in 2009, and was offered

first place award in the 2009 Food as Art

Allegra Eve Angelo is

Jonathan Haynes is chef

Jason is the proud parent of two children.

the position for the 2010 season.

’10

Jasmine Diaz is the chef at White Horse Village, a retire-

ment community in Newtown Square, PA. She keeps the residents entertained, engaged, and educated with her craft

’07

Sewha Chang is pastry chef

beer-making demonstrations and tastings.

at Great Performances in New

York City.

Lodarek ’03 in September 2010. They

Texas Hold ’em Under a big Texas sky, with delighted friends and family as witnesses, Samantha Bussman ’09 and Robbie Rensel ’10 exchanged vows at Belle Rose Maison in Conroe, TX on May 29, 2010. Samantha is currently the sous chef at Houston’s Westlake Country Club and Robbie is working as resident chef for Sur La Table at Houston City Center. Astrid Sierra ’08 helped the couple cater the entire affair, which they cooked and served themselves. Also in attendance was CIA Senior Advancement Officer Lee Ellen Hayes, who had worked with the couple, prior to

In Memoriam Wendell A. Hall ’51

Scott Walsack ’86

James Pavana ’54

David Keener ’88

Bruce S. Taylor ’55

Peter Wildermuth ’90

James Dawson III ’68

Dana Michele Vittorio ’95

Morton Gilbert ’68

David R. Lombardo ’98

Malcolm Lawrence Noonan ’71

Andrew Greenberg ’99

Terry W. Earl ’72

Kathleen Weaks ’04

Nick Cullura ’73

Patrick Humphrey ’05

Anthony Timoteo, Jr. ’75

Marshal Meyer ’05

David Jagielski ’81

Samuel J. Montgomery ’07

Ivan Joseph Capowski ’86

Brent Collinsworth ’10

their graduations, on networking for jobs in the Houston area.

34

www.ciaalumninetwork.com

Where in the World is the CIA? Help us answer that question

Senior Advancement Officer Patty Hamilton carrying a CIA tote near the Parthenon in Athens, Greece.

Take a picture of yourself with

Oh, and don’t forget to write a caption

your CIA gear in places of interest

for your pictures so we know who is

around the world and send them

in it and exactly where it was taken!

to us. The most interesting photos

Don’t have any CIA-branded gear?

will be included in our June 2011

Head online to get hats, t-shirts,

edition of mise en place that will

pants, sweatshirts, and all sorts of

focus on where CIA alums are

great CIA stuff. Gear is available at

working worldwide.

the Barnes & Noble Craig Claiborne

Be sure to take hi-resolution (300dpi) pictures and send them via e-mail to alumni@culinary.edu.

Bookstore at the Hyde Park campus.

Visit http://ciachef.bncollege.com.

Looking for CIA at Greystone gear?

Just visit www.ciastore.com and ask for a 20% discount.

35

The Culinary Institute of America Alumni Relations 1946 Campus Drive Hyde Park, NY 12538-1499

cia 2011 Leadership Awards Gala Join us at a once-in-a-lifetime event to CELEBRATE EXCELLENCE at The Culinary Institute of America 2011 Leadership Awards Gala Wednesday, March 30, 2011 6:30 p.m. Reception | 7:30 p.m. Dinner The New York Marriott Marquis in Times Square Honorees

Paul Bocuse, Chef of the Century Daniel Boulud, Chef of the Year Jerome Bocuse ’92, Alumnus of the Year Michael Chiarello ’82, Alumnus of the Year Richard E. Marriott, Frances L. Roth Award Contact Lisa Vanata at 845-905-4279 or l_vanata@culinary.edu to secure your place at a culinary event like no other!

This event raises scholarship funds for CIA students.

Alumni Relations Admissions Advancement CIA Web Sites Career Services Conrad N. Hilton Library Professional Development 845-451-1401 1-800-285-4627 845-905-4275 ciachef.edu 845-451-1275 845-451-1270 1-800-888-7850 ciaalumninetwork.com ciagiving.org ciaprochef.com

General Information 845-452-9600