ISSUE 32
SUMMER 2019
ISSN 2052 0603
The Italian Issue Celebrating the people, products and passion from the home of hospitality
WE DIDN’T INVENT TEQUILA Tequila has been around for centuries, but we took the time to get it right, crafting a small-batch spirit that’s worth sipping slowly. It requires Mexico’s finest 100% Weber Blue Agave, hand-selected and distilled in custom copper stills for a smooth finish every time. We didn’t invent tequila,
The perfect way to enjoy Patrón is responsibly. Handcrafted and imported exclusively from Mexico by The Patrón Spirits Company, Las Vegas, NV. 40% abv.
WE JUST PERFECTED IT.
IN-tro
WHY A WHOLE ISSUE
D E VOT E D TO
I TA LY ? ARE YOU KIDDING?
When it comes to genuine hospitality, Italians win hands down. That’s our opinion and we’re sticking with it, besides, who would argue that it isn’t true? Also, it’s summer and just as we reach for lightweight clothes, so too it is with our drinks – who needs the faff or intensity of the heavy, labour-intensive, wintry cocktails? The relative ease and freshness of aperitivo-style libations matches the season perfectly. Jane Ryan shines a light on the art of the aperitivo and how it features in the daily life of Italians (p. 24) – perhaps only second to coffee, the most important drink of their day (p. 22). Enough of the drinks for a moment, this issue also pays tribute to the people sharing the cocktail love – both in Italy and abroad. We start with the stalwarts, Peter Dorelli, Salvatore Calabrese and Giuseppe Morandin (p. 18 & 62), stop off with Giuseppe Gallo for his roundup of those who have left home to develop their careers elsewhere (p. 30) and continue with Stefano Nincevich’s pick of the names to know in Italy (p. 38). We’ve got recipes (p. 49), groovy barware (p. 56) and the best bars (p. 66) – all with an Italian focus. And this being the centenary of the Negroni, we’re celebrating that too (p. 44). Your summer of drinking like an Italian starts here… Salut!
Please imbibe responsibly
Ms S & Mr G thecocktaillovers.com
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The Cocktail Lovers - 3
IN-gredients
7. IN-the know
24. IN-the spotlight The art of the Aperitivo
In Italy everything stops for Aperitivo. Jane Ryan takes time out to get down with the ritual
30. IN-spire Big time hospitality
When it comes to hospitality, Italians win hands down. Giuseppe Gallo explains why
25 reasons to be a cocktail lover this season
Getting an umami fix, hero-ing the sandwich and switching on to taps, just a few of the many things we're looking forward to this summer
13. IN-the know The glassware
Treasures from Murano
15. IN-the know The gadget
Italy's biggest squeeze
17. IN-the know The drink
Simple, complex and delicious – the Negroni is 100 years old
18. IN-the know The people
A salute to London's living bartending legends
34. IN-spire A taste of Italy
How five quintessentially Italian ingredients inspire cocktails around the world
38. IN-focus Local heroes
Bartenders, drinks producers, bar owners – Stefano Nincevich shines a light on the names to know everywhere from Milan to Rome
44. IN-focus Ode to the Negroni
gaz regan takes a trip down memory lane as he remembers his first Negroni
48. IN-style
22. IN-the spotlight
…and first there was the cafeteria In praise of coffee culture
La Dolce Vita
Five bottles everyone needs when the clock strikes Aperitivo o'clock!
4 - The Cocktail Lovers
IN-gredients
54. IN-focus
Editors: Sandrae Lawrence Gary Sharpen
Let's hear it for the girls
Meet the Italian women kicking some serious ass in the world of drinks
Sub-editor: Sally Briggs Creative Director: James Cheverton at Burnt Studio burntstudio.com
56. IN-dulge Bellisimo!
Beautiful barware crafted with care in Italy
58. IN-formed
Will prosecco keep bubbling
Steve Pryer on the facts and figures behind our growing thirst for prosecco
60. IN-formed Mains & Martinis
Three restaurants where the drinks are more than a match for the food
Photography Rob Lawson roblawson.com Lawrence Watson lawrencewatsonphotogaphy.com Illustrations Clotilde Lataille clotildelataille.com Contributors: Giampiero Francesca Giuseppe Gallo Tara Garnell Rebecca Milford Stefano Nincevich Steve Pryer gaz regan Jane Ryan On the cover:
62. IN-formed Word Up
News, views and reviews from the cocktail front
Toasting the people, places and products of Italy Photograph by Rob Lawson Glassware: The Conran Shop and Villeroy & Boch For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact:
66. IN-ternational Italy's best bars
Giampiero Francesca opens his address book and shares his favourite drinking spots in Florence, Milan and Rome
The Cocktail Lovers are proud winners of Best Cocktail & Spirits Publication, Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards 2016 and The London Evening Standard Progress 1000 – London’s Most Influential People 2015 and 2017
mail@thecocktaillovers.com T: 020 7242 2546 thecocktaillovers.com Printed by Stephens & George Distributed by Gold Key Media Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers Magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited. The Cocktail Lovers Issue No. 32 Summer 2019 The Cocktail Lovers magazine is published by The Cocktail Lovers Ltd. in London, UK PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY
The Cocktail Lovers - 5
Contributors
Giampiero Francesca
Stefano Nincevich
Giampiero Francesca is the creator and owner of BlueBlazeR Italian cocktail bars guide and magazine (blueblazer.it). He’s based in Rome but travels Italy and the world to discover the best cocktail bars.
Stefano has been writing about the bar scene in Milan for the last 18 years. He is sought out for a number of projects including heading up special events at ‘Bargiornale’, the leading trade magazine for bar news in Italy and sitting on the jury of the finals of Mixologist, the first talent show dedicated to emerging bartenders. Last year he was chosen to be the Italian endorser of the Disaronno video-documentary, The Mixing Star and he can also be seen on the Bargiornale Cocktail News video series. Stefano’s book, ‘Cocktail Safari – an adventurous
In his free time he loves to discover the latest food trends while sipping a very cold Dry Martini. Here he takes us on a tour of the best bars in Florence, Milan and Rome in his ultimate drinking guide. Don't head to Italy without it (p. 66).
journey through 70 drinks’ can be purchased via amazon. For this issue he shines a light on the people making waves in Italy’s bar scene (p. 38).
Steve Pryer
Clotilde Lataille
Steve Pryer is an independent writer and editor with more than 30 years experience in national newspapers and magazines, including covering food, wine and travel at the London Evening Standard. He is a long-standing member of the Circle of Wine Writers.
Clotilde started her career in drinks working as a waitress at Callooh Callay in London, before moving on to join the team at Hawksmoor Spitalfields. She’s now French Apertifs Ambassador at Pernod Ricard as well as working on her equally important love, art.
He sings the praises of prosecco, the bright, bubbly Italian sparkler in this issue and, good news for fellow fans, he says that the trend for it shows no signs of slowing down (p. 58).
For this issue, she combines both talents in a series of illustrations featuring quintessential Italian ingredients that have inspired some mighty fine drinks (p. 34).
6 - The Cocktail Lovers
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IN-the know
REASONS TO BE A COCKTAIL LOVER THIS SEASON Embracing our inner demon, bigging up apples and bagging our bottles – just a few of the many cocktail-tastic things we're looking forward to this summer
N1 o
Escaping the ordinary
Tim Walker: Wonderful Things is at the Victoria & Albert Museum from 21st September 2019 to 8th March 2020. vam.ac.uk
tim walker, 'duckie thot, aubrey's shadow', london, 2017 ©tim walker studio
Tim Walker’s fantastical images transcend fashion, taking the viewer on an unapologetic, elaborately staged journey full of wonderment and delight. How you’ll ‘ooh’ and ‘ahh’ at the selection of extraordinary pictures and photographic sets on display at ‘Tim Walker: Wonderful Things’ at the V&A. We suggest celebrating the exuberance of his work with an equally creative cocktail, like the ones on the menu at Oriole (oriolebar.com). Never knowingly understated.
The Cocktail Lovers - 7
IN-the know
2
THREE
Getting an umami fix
Next level taste bomb: Vegemite. On buttered toast. In a bottle. Love it or loathe it, we bet you want to try it. Order now at archierose.com.au
Bagging our bottles
Ooh, hello! Six mini Prosecco bottles in a stylish, clear tote. You’d think it couldn’t get any better, right? But wait, said bag is waterproof so you can fill it with ice. Picnic time sorted! Available from reservebar.com
05
No. four …more cool options for booze fans on the go – introducing the Aged & Ore Travel Decanter; featuring a 500ml, hand-blown glass bottle encased in two stainless steel double wall tumblers. Pre-order at agedandore.com
…and there’s the Jägermeister Cool Pack. Stackable, compact and portable, so Jäger fans can get an ice-cold shot whenever and wherever the mood takes them. jagermeister.com
Raising our glass game We love us some cool glassware and this Calici Milanesi trio is high on our wish list. Perfect for elegant soirees. agustonibottini.com
06
eight
Hero-ing the sandwich
Stop everything! The search for the perfect bar snack is off. We’ve found it in the offthe-scale taste sensation that is the Iberian Pork Sando from TA TA Eatery at Tayer + Elementary. Not great if you’re veggie, vegan or off the carbs but brilliant news for everyone else. tayer-elementary.com
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SEVEN
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To pour in them? One of the three nonalcoholic varietals from Æcorn Aperitifs. aecornaperitifs.com
…and there’s the NoLo collection from Libbey. Clean, simple and stylish, each of the seven designs have been made with no and low alcohol drinks in mind. foodservice.libbey.eu
IN-the know
ELEVEN
10
Having a dose of animal magic
Channelling citrus
What happens when a bartender combines his love of animals with his passion for graphic design? Cocktail Critters, the delightful menagerie of cocktail-loving pins created by Mitchell Lum, that's what. Get yours from cocktailcritters.com
Hey guys, fancy wearing your garnish? Try these swimming trunks from Franklin Eugene out for size. Go on, we dare you! franklineugene.com
12
13 Checking us some Hennessy
Sipping Sicilian style Inspired by the orange groves of Sicily, J.J.Whitley Blood Orange Gin is dark and rich with Mediterranean marmalade orange notes. No toast required. jj-whitley.com
Did you know that with 5,000-plus mentions Hennessy is the most referenced drinks brand in hip-hop and grime tracks? Find out more at Hennessy: For the culture, an entire installation dedicated to unearthing the link from drink to lyric. Until 15th September. somersethouse.org.uk
15
14.
Bigging up the apples
SIXTEEN
…music-loving Bacardí go even further with Make It Hot, the brand new, dance hall stylee summer anthem released in collaboration with Major Lazer and Anitta. To drink? Bacardi Coconut rum of course!
It’s taken a long time but calvados is finally having its moment. The one to seek out? Avallen by Tim Etherington-Judge and Stephanie Jordan, embracing environmental issues and great taste in one bottle. avallenspirits.com
Switching on to taps What’s not to like about the new crop of tapped cocktails? They’re delicious, consistent and fast. One of our current faves? Ice cold Grey Goose Espresso Martinis. Coming to a bar near you soon.
17. Laying it on thick We’re talking about the delectable Strawberry, Tangerine and Mint Jam laced with Pimm’s – with that tasty combo, why on earth would you want to hold back? shop.anyoneforpimms.com
The Cocktail Lovers - 9
IN-the know
EIGHTEEN
19
Embracing our inner demon
Given the choice between a tea with or without cocktails, which would you go for? Exactly! In truth, the scones, sarnies and cakes in the Saint & Sinners afternoon tea at L’Oscar work perfectly on their own but the three cocktails that accompany them are
For a major city London is pretty short on late night bars. Which is why Double Standard at the newly-opened The Standard Hotel in King’s Cross is going for a 24-hour license. So when you want to keep the party going, we’ll know where to find you. standardhotels.com
bloomin’ amazing (p. 60). loscar.com
22
TWENTY ONE
20
Making London late again
Dramming it up An entire hotel dedicated to whisky? Yes please! Upon
completion in September, Black
Upgrading our snacks The meaty, premium products from Made For Drink deliver on every front. madefordrink.com
Rock Mark II will feature a blending room, bar and three
Going grey
guest suites. Get your bookings in now! blackrock.bar
Any nail polish called Cocktail Bling gets the thumbs up by us. essie.co.uk
24
BEING LABEL LOVIES
Bog standard wine labels are so last season darlings, all the cool kids are getting down to sensorial labels that allow you to interact through touch, sound and smell. Find out more at averydennison.com
TWENTY FIVE
23 10 - The Cocktail Lovers
Scotch eggs are great but these handmade chocolate truffles live up to the name by featuring real Scotch whisky encased in a ginger crunch shell. Yum! firebox.com
Sharing the cocktail love The best new drink? The Sunflower Martini. Where to try it? Erik Lorincz’s new bar, Kwant. You’re welcome. momo.london
WHITLEY NEILL
T H E U K ’ S N O .1 P R E M I U M G I N
Presents
BLOOD ORANGE SPRITZ
2 5 M L WH I T L E Y NE I LL B LO O D O R A N G E GI N
Add gin and prosecco to a glass
5 50 0 M L P RO S E C C O
f i l l e d w i t h i c e . To p w i t h s o d a wa t e r
TOP U P WI TH P R E M I U M S O DA WATER
and garnish with an orange wheel.
‘THE UK’S NO.1 PREMIUM GIN’ SOURCE: NIELSEN GB OFF-TRADE DATA, VALUE SALES, MAT TO 23.03.19