The Cocktail Lovers Magazine Issue 26 Winter 2018

ISSUE 26

WINTER 2018

FULL ON FLAVOUR

ISSN 2052 0603

LESSONS IN TASTE FOR 2018 With guest editor Monica Berg

- Photos: Fotolia

PUT A SPELL ON YOUR COCKTAIL

Caribbean Pineapple Premium Liqueur Product of France

www.giffard.com GIFFARD – 49240 Avrillé (Angers) - FRANCE / Tel: + 33 2 41 1885 00 – contact@giffard.com

IN-tro

FLAVOUR T H ER E’S A WO R D TO

CHEW O V E R

A N D

DIGEST The dictionary defines it as ‘an indication of the essential character of something'. Monica Berg devotes this entire issue to it.

“Flavour is everything; a life without it would be both boring and empty,” says the award-winning bartender, author and selfconfessed flavour geek, who guest edits our first edition of 2018.

She’s done a brilliant job, showcasing an array of fascinating flavours – some known, others less so but all definitely worth acquainting your palate with.

She starts with her pick of the next generation of tastemakers (p. 18), and moves on to explain the simple but complex meaning of flavour and the affect it has on our enjoyment of taste (p. 26).

Monica shares her secrets too, including her favourite books for deliciousness (p. 32), exotic products worth travelling for (p. 38), and ingredients that pack a punch in the flavour department (p. 40). How about food we hear you cry? Don’t worry, she’s got that covered. Check out Food for Thought, where chefs and bartenders take one ingredient and use it to dramatic effect (p. 48).

And what have we been up to while Monica’s done the hard work?

Why trying her suggestions of course. It would have been rude not to.

We suggest you do the same.

Happy imbibing!

Ms S & Mr G thecocktaillovers.com

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The Cocktail Lovers - 3

IN-gredients

9. IN-the know

32. IN-the spotlight

The reading list

The top ten books you need to up your flavour game

25 reasons to be a cocktail lover this season

Drinking to our health and mixing G with a T– just two of the things we're looking forward to this season

38. IN-the spotlight Flavour hunting

Exotic ingredients worth jumping on a plane for

14. IN-the hotseat

40. IN-dulge

Talking food, foraging and flavour with our guest editor Monica Berg

Five beautiful bottles that pack a flavoursome punch

Monica Berg

18. IN-spire

The rare necessities

48. IN-the mix

The palate pleasers Introducing the next generation of tastemakers

Food for thought

What happens when six chefs and six bartenders from around the world are given the same ingredient to work with

26. IN-spire

54. IN-focus

Everything you need to know about how our brain interprets flavour

Is it better to create by learning why instead of what? Alex Kratena and Monica Berg each put forward their case

Why flavour, why not flavour?

6 - The Cocktail Lovers

Flavour vs. recipes

IN-gredients

58. IN-formed

Mains & Martinis

Three London restaurants where the drinks are more than a match for the food

Editors: Sandrae Lawrence Gary Sharpen Sub-editor: Sally Briggs Creative Director: James Cheverton at Burnt Studio burntstudio.com Illustrations: Clementine Mitchell

60. IN-formed

Photography: Beth Crockatt Rob Lawson roblawson.com Contributors: Rebecca Milford Lauryn Tomlinson With huge thanks to our guest editor Monica Berg

For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact: mail@thecocktaillovers.com 020 7242 2546

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News, views and reviews from the cocktail front

64. IN-ternational

Printed by Stones The Printers Limited on FSC accredited paper

Bella Italia

Falling for the magic of Milan’s most stylish bars

Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers Magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited.

The Cocktail Lovers Issue No. 26 Winter 2018 The Cocktail Lovers magazine is published by The Cocktail Lovers Ltd. in London, UK PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY The Cocktail Lovers are proud winners of Best Cocktail & Spirits Publication, Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards 2016 and The London Evening Standard Progress 1000 – London’s Most Influential People 2015 and 2017

The Cocktail Lovers - 7

Contributors

Clementine Mitchell

Emil Seth Åreng

Clementine is an illustrator, designer, teacher and mum (not always in that order). She lives and works in London, collaborating with and working for the food and drinks industry in the UK and further afield. She has worked with brands including The Langham hotel, Artesian bar, St. John restaurant, The Savoy, Absolut and Bacardí. Clementine is also a senior lecturer at Ravensbourne University and currently full-time mum to her four-month old baby girl. For this issue she’s illustrated the ingredients in the Food for Thought feature, p. 48.

Renowned for putting Umeå – in the northern part of Sweden – on the map as far as bartenders are concerned, Emil has represented his country in numerous global cocktail competitions, most notably Diageo World Class and Bacardí Legacy. His other accolades include being named Best Bartender in Sweden at both the Bartender’s Choice Awards and the Oslo Bar Show, and picking up the Best Cocktail Menu award at the Bartender’s Choice Awards for Open/Closed, the bar he manages in Umeå. Additionally, he’s Chief of First Impressions (or Global Brand Ambassador) at Hernö Gin, blogger at Café Magazine and author of cocktail book Salongs i Norrland. Here, he's created a recipe for Food for Thought, p. 48.

Clementine's favourite flavour: “Salt and vinegar – it's the perfect mix of tangy and salty that makes me think of pub gardens and a nice glass of white wine (or maybe it’s the wine that’s actually my favourite flavour!”)

Emil's favourite flavour: “Cloudberries, nothing beats sitting in the woods on your own and eating them freshly picked. If anyone says any different, they haven’t lived.”

Rob Lawson

Constança Cordeiro

A regular contributor to The Cocktail Lovers Magazine, with good reason: Rob has been photographing drinks for over 20 years.

His work takes in both editorial and advertising campaigns for the likes of Haig Club, The Balvenie, Grey Goose, Martini, Smirnoff, Ketel One Vodka and Plymouth Gin – in fact, he’s travelled the world working with all the major drinks brands. “My early career saw me assisting photographers like Terence Donovan, Terry O’Neill and George Logan, but after photographing drinks for the first few issues of CLASS Magazine in 1997, I realised I'd found my niche and was hooked.” His photographs of flavoursome drinks can be found on page 40.

Having spend three years working in some of London's leading bars such as Original Sin and Peg + Patriot, Constança recently moved back to her native Portugal to open her own venue. The concept? To use only the freshest Portuguese ingredients. In the meantime, she's developing CO-Lab Project where each month she invites two international bartenders to explore the Portuguese countryside and develop recipes from the region – all of which will be replicated in her bar Toca da Raposa, when it opens in May 2018. She shows off her flair for flavour in this issue on page 48.

Rob's favourite flavour: “I’ve been loving making Daiquiri’s recently – make them quickly and drink them slowly, that's my motto! Love ‘em!”

8 - The Cocktail Lovers

Constança's favourite flavour: "It has to be creamy and peachy. Don't get me wrong, it doesn't have to have cream or peach in it but that fullness and texture gets me every time."

25

IN-the know

REASONS TO BE A COCKTAIL LOVER THIS SEASON

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Having a Cubist moment As you might expect from the Tate Modern, its first ever solo Picasso exhibition is going to be pretty mega.

Over 100 paintings, sculptures and drawings mixed in with personal objects, all from 1932, the most creative year in his life, will be on show. And when you’re done with the culture, call into the café. On the menu? Love, Fame and Tragedy cocktails and a two-course food menu inspired by the show.

The EY Exhibition: Picasso 1932 – Love, Fame Tragedy is at Tate Modern from 8 March-9 September. tate.org.uk

NUDE WOMAN IN ARED ARMCHAIR (FEMME NUE DANS UN FAUTEUIL ROUGE), 1932. OIL PAINT ON CANVAS 1299 X 972mm.

TATE. PURCHASED 1953. © SUCCESSION PICASSO/DACS LONDON, 2017

Wearing our hearts on our heads, channelling our inner Mary Berry and drinking to our health, just a few of the things we're looking forward to in the next few months…

The Cocktail Lovers - 9

IN-the know

Jooshing up our interior

three 2

Did you know that one of the next big trends is ‘Electric Jungle’? This cool number for your drinks fits the bill nicely. Vinilo Nevera Tropical fridge/freezer, tenvinilo.com

…keeping with the what’s in vogue theme, want to know the colour du jour? According to Pantone, it’s ultra violet. Inject some papal purple into your life with this. Edward Levatappi corkscrew, shop.viceversa.it

04

…on our heads, with this perfect Valentine’s date night cocktail hat from

5. Getting in a spin The question isn’t do you really need a self-stirring mug, more like how dull will your life be without one? prezzybox.com

06

Channelling our inner Mary Berry

Merci Monsieur Roux for your bon cake recipes, including this one which comes with cake mix, chocolate curls, cake tins and a mini bottle of the fizzy stuff. We definitely feel a bake off coming on… bakedin.co.uk

PHOTOGRAPHY: JOHNNIE PAKINGTON

PHOTOGRAPHY: ANTHONY LYCETT

Wearing our hearts victoriagrant.co.uk

N8 o

Being in awe…

of the kick ass ladies in drinks. 2018 is the Year of the Woman doncha know, so we’ll be highlighting our favourites in every issue, starting on p. 62.

09

Drinking pretty 10 - The Cocktail Lovers

PHOTOGRAPHY: ADDIE CHINN

07

Mr Lyan always does substance with style. This gorgeous-tasting collab with Firefly, blends aronia, grapefruit, redcurrant, cascara, wormwood, angelica, kola nut and green coffee for a non-alcoholic drink with a botanical punch. Find it at harveynichols.com

…and this gent gets the royal seal of approval. Arise Desmond Payne, Master Distiller at Beefeater Gin, recently awarded an MBE for services to the drinks industry.

IN-the know

11

Parking fine 10. Respecting elders

Why choose shiny and new when you can inject some character with vintage? Start your collection with a sleek retro soda siphon from the selection at scaramangashop.co.uk

14

And we mean that sincerely folks. These Vespa bar stools are just the ticket. smithersofstamford.com

Twelve Throwing in the towel Only the rubbish ones mind.

This work of art is an absolute beaut.

N 13 o

MAKING LIKE BOY SCOUTS and always being prepared. Keep this handy whatchamacallit about you and you’ll always be able to rustle up a cocktail, pronto. Sunnylife All-in-one Cocktail Tool, yellowoctopus.com.au

…and if you don’t frame that, how about this? The job’s already done. Towel and print from yellowstoneartboutique.co.uk

15

…and you never know when you’ll need a foraging bag for infusion goodies (even if they do come from the market…) Available at thenewcraftsmen.co.uk

17 …water gets the V.I.P. treatment too. A sachet of Conscious Water flower essence won’t just perk up your water bottle, it’ll do the job on your mood as well. consciouswater.com

to 16 Drinking our health

Imagine the indulgence of lush, hot chocolate but with healthy benefits. That’s the thinking behind the nutrient rich, all natural delights at Noble Earth. Packed with all the good stuff like turmeric, beetroot and baobab, they’re just what the health guru ordered…madebynoble.earth

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IN-the know

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NINETEEN...

ASKING ALEXA

Clutching at straws

Does it get more biodegradable than a straw you can eat? We don’t think so. Lolistraw, new from loliware.com

20

Need instant tips for wine pairings, how to make your favourite cocktail or what glassware to use? Ask Alexa Skills and be amazed. amazon.com

TWENTY ONE

22

Chomping on chocs Mixing G with a T …as in gin with a trim.

Spend £50 or more on grooming at Murdock London and you'll be treated to a fab Silent Pool Black Tea cocktail created by Stu Bale. murdocklondon.com

Luxury chocolate studded with gummy bears made from vintage Dom Perignon, we’re in! Milk chocolate Champagne Bears Bar by Sugarfina exclusively at harveynichols.com

23 TRYING NEW FLAVOURS New year, different tipple. Try Escubac. Like gin – only without the juniper – it’s made from 14 botanicals then sweetened with raisins and vanilla, and pairs perfectly with tonic. sweetdram.com

12 - The Cocktail Lovers

Perfecting our lifts Here’s how. Gin Bunny sweatshirt, oflifeandlemons.co.uk

TWENTY FOUR Turning water into wine

or Martinis, with a virtual cocktail. Hook your glass up to the 3D cradle and hey presto, you get the aroma, taste and visuals of a cocktail with none of the effects. Coming soon…

N 25 o

…for drinks wizardry you can try now, book up for the revolutionary Out of the Blue sensory menu at the Blue Bar at The Berkeley. See more details on p. 63.

AVAILABLE NATIONWIDE IN WAITROSE, MAJESTIC AND 31DOVER.COM

IN THE HOTSEAT

MONICA BERG Flavour has always played an important role in our guest editor Monica Berg’s life – both personally and professionally. Here she tells us why

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PHOTOGRAPHY: BETH CROCKATT

IN-terview

IN-terview

When did you know that you wanted to work in bars and restaurants?

Fast-forward to now, how would you describe your bartending style?

Ever since I can remember. From a very early age I used to play restaurants at home. I’d prepare a menu and my dad had to choose something that I would cook – it was always the same thing mind you – a mix of flour, milk and cacao powder and a lot of imagination! At the end of the meal I’d give him a bill – I loved it. I even decorated my bedroom as a bar!

I like simplicity and try to use as few ingredients as possible. I approach my drinks purely from a flavour perspective so I’m always willing to manipulate ingredients. Which is where combining bartending and cooking comes in.

Where do you think your interest in hospitality stems from?

As a family we used to go to holiday camps and I remember being really fascinated by the reps. They were the ones who made sure everyone was taken care of and entertained – they really inspired me and I wanted to be just like them.

That explains the hospitality side of things, what about your fascination with flavour?

I grew up in Norway and my life was very much centred around food. My great grandparents were farmers and grew crops, my uncle was a butcher, both stepsisters live on farms and my stepfather always made sourdough bread as well as wines and beers. I’ve been keeping sourdough alive since I was eight or nine; I made fruit beer at the same age. I had to fish for herring and mackerel, went mushrooming – being from Scandinavia it was just natural. It was normal for me to open the pantry and see an elk hanging up, or go out picking berries. Nowadays people call it foraging, in Norway, it’s just a way of life.

Can you recall your first long-lasting memory of flavour?

It has to be strawberries… my grandfather used to pick them in the middle of Norway during the summer when they were at their best. He would bring them home, sprinkle sugar on them to draw out the moisture, then they'd be packed in a box and put in the freezer.

We were only allowed to eat them on Sundays for breakfast which made them extra special. I still remember their taste now.

Anything else?

Yes. My grandmother was very particular about what she ate; she would have one piece of bread and cut it into four pieces so she could have four toppings. Even as a young child I thought that made so much sense – what a creative way to make the most of flavour!

How so?

Take cauliflower as an ingredient, for instance. From a bartending perspective it’s not particularly exciting – it has a very distinct taste and not many people like it raw or juiced. But if you think like a chef and manipulate it, there are so many interesting things you can do with it.

You just need to approach it differently: what if I fry it?

It becomes crispy and can be used as a garnish. What if I ferment it? There's so much that can be done with it.

I approach my drinks purely from a flavour perspective so I’m always willing to manipulate ingredients Other than manipulating flavours, what other things can bartenders learn from chefs?

The biggest lesson that bartenders can learn from chefs is to be more structured. Chefs record everything – which is a good thing. There’s no point in experimenting if you don’t document what you’re doing. Also they have such dedication – chefs do most of their work without anyone seeing what they do, but they still do it. If you’re in the business just for the accolades and to be seen, then you probably should be doing something else.

And what can chefs learn from bartenders?

Some chefs can definitely learn how to deal with people.

It’s a skill to be front of house. There are things that we don’t know about cooking unless we go into the kitchen and try, and vice versa because chefs have never been in a bar environment. They don’t understand temperature that well or dilution. I’ve had so many tasting menus and drinks from chefs where they’ve said that they’re going to serve the drink directly from the fridge with no dilution. In the world of cooking you’re always trying to reduce, reduce, reduce to intensify the flavours but for bartenders, we need dilution.

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IN-terview

Which leads us to the inevitable question: can you successfully pair cocktails and food?

Yes, you can but it’s not something that you can do overnight. If you don’t have a chef and bartender who are willing to work together, it’s impossible. Think about it: in a good way, both chefs and bartenders have egos, so if you want a good pairing, it’s not about the food or the drinks, it’s about the combination of both, so both sides have to be willing to make adjustments. A lot of the time, the drinks won’t necessarily be balanced and delicious to have on their own. It’s the same with the food – sometimes you may think the food is under-seasoned but then you taste it with the drink and it makes sense.

It takes a lot of work but done well, food and cocktail pairings can be incredible.

One of the biggest lessons I’ve learnt was from my distiller in Oslo, he told me you have to be brave enough to do as little as possible You’ve worked with distillers, chefs and bartenders, what have you learned from each of them?

One of the biggest lessons I’ve learnt was from my distiller in Oslo, he told me you have to be brave enough to do as little as possible; in other words: put your ego on the side and know when to leave things alone. Especially when you work with good ingredients. I like working with chefs because of how they approach things, they teach you to respect ingredients more. Bartenders trust the bottles, they’re the same all year round and everywhere in the world. But every morning chefs have to taste the produce and trust their palates – bartenders can learn a lot from following their lead.

Why did you want to guest edit this issue?

For lots of reasons, but essentially because I meet so many amazing people and experience so many wonderful flavours when I travel, that I want to bring them to the attention of other people. Working on this issue has been a great opportunity to do something different and express my creativity.

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Where’s your favourite place for flavour?

Eleven Madison Park in New York, (elevenmadisonpark. com), there are few people’s palates I respect more than Leo Robitschek’s (Bar Director). His drinks are always so different, he doesn’t go for recipes, he goes for f lavour. He thinks like a chef.

I also can’t praise Heidi Bjerkan enough. She runs Credo (restaurantcredo.no/en), a beautiful restaurant in Trondheim and adheres to the most genuine farmto-table philosophy I know of, she even makes her own soil! She works with farmers and coaches them, has sustainably woven napkins, picks seaweed from outside her house – the lot.

To find out more about Monica and upcoming projects, see pourdrink.org

THE PALATE PLEASERS

Meet the next generation of tastemakers as identified by Monica Berg

IN-spire

DIMITRIS DAFOPOULOS Co-founder Three Cents Soda, Athens, Greece. threecents.gr So first thing, why mixers?

Well, everything started after a trip to Mexico and a visit to Tequila Town’s oldest bar, the famous La Capilla.

The bartender was serving Batangas and Palomas to a bewildered group of thirsty bartenders during an extremely hot afternoon and he was making it look so easy! I remember asking myself what excited me that day, and why I liked the experience.

Jake Burger once said of his former bar the Portobello Star: “Anyone who has ever spent a million pounds on a bar should come here to see why they wasted their money’’. You can’t replicate tradition, culture and authenticity, but that visit got us researching how to replicate La Capilla’s traditional Paloma and discovering why that drink was so successful.

What is your dream destination for eating and drinking?

Oaxaca, Mexico hands down!

And last but not least, a few quick ones: Favourite spirit: Mezcal Coffee or tea: Coffee Sweet or sour: Sweet Best mixer: Anything but Coke!

Your local bar: Odori Vermuteria Di Atene (Athens, Greece)

One of my colleagues, George Bagos, and I worked at a tequila bar in the centre of Athens, one thing led to another and soon we had our own Pink Grapefruit Soda.

It wasn’t long before we had a whole line of house mixers and it took us less than six months to create our own brand, Three Cents. We got intrigued by all the aspects of long drinks, their timeless popularity and the science that lies behind a phenomenally simple G&T. We truly believe that long drinks are the future of fine drinking as they carry a great deal of history and they represent the modest art of simplicity in mixing.

What is the most memorable eating or drinking experience you’ve ever had?

The first time that I visited a Michelin-starred restaurant in Dijon, France in 2013. I was amazed by the meticulous sourcing of ingredients and the chef’s relationship with the producers, along with the region’s deeply rich culture in gastronomy. The welcome drink was a simple Kir, made right in front of us without measuring the proportions, with a rare variety of Burgundian wine and a high-proof crème de Noir du Bourgogne, that will never escape my mind!

What's your deep, dark guilty pleasure – food or drink?

Islay whisky and chocolate. If together, even better…

What is your go-to drink and why?

We got intrigued by all the aspects of long drinks, their timeless popularity and the science that lies behind a phenomenally simple G&T

I always go for an aperitivo before anything. Something like a Campari?Vermouth Tonic or an Americano. It’s a fixer and it gives me an idea of how long the night’s going to be!

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IN-spire

YVONNE TRAN Bartender at Corner Club, Stockholm, Sweden. cornerclub.se If you had to choose only one ingredient to work with for the rest of your life, what would it be and why?

And last but not least – a few quick ones;

Oil. I'm so fascinated by the intensity of flavour that can be found in one single drop and how it can help lift an ingredient, give the cocktail a silky-smooth mouth feel or be used as garnish. And the number of varieties that are available is something that never crossed my mind before I started to use it in drinks. There's a whole world of oils out there! My personal favourite is birch oil.

Favourite spirit: Bourbon Coffee or tea: Tea Sweet or sour: Both!

Best mixer: Soda water Bar you think people should know: Botaanik Bar (Tallinn, Estonia)

Tell us one thing about Stockholm that we might not know.

Lilac and elderflower grows everywhere here in the summer, which means you can make cordial for your picnics!

What is the most memorable eating or drinking experience you’ve ever had?

Barcelona 2009, at a tapas bar called Inopia with my family. Summer, packed with people, music, cold drinks and super tasty food. It was a magical evening.

Which bartender has influenced you most in your career so far?

My former bar manager Simon Epale, who I worked with in London. He has an amazing product knowledge and is always a good host behind the bar. I learned a lot from him. Also, he made me discover Smith & Cross rum.

What is your go-to drink and why?

A Negroni. Because it has complexity and balance – everything one could ask for in a drink.

In your opinion, do you think non-alcoholic drinks can rival their alcoholic counterparts when it comes to flavour, texture and creativity?

Absolutely. Non-alcoholic drinks are a fun challenge and the demand for them is growing. It’s the bartender’s duty to give all guests a tasteful experience, whether they drink alcohol or not. There are bars that are doing amazing stuff for non-spirit drinkers, and it inspires me to experiment making good non-alcoholic drinks.

It's easy to get stuck in the citrus-sugar-soda mode, but there are ways to be more creative both in flavour and visually; I think it's definitely moving forward.

20 - The Cocktail Lovers

Non-alcoholic drinks are a fun challenge and the demand for them is growing

ALEXIS TINOCO Bar Director at The Aviary, Chicago, US. theaviary.com

If you had to choose only one ingredient to work with for the rest of your life, what would it be and why?

Which bartender has influenced you most in your career so far?

Absinthe. I often use it like someone might use salt, to season a cocktail. In our downstairs space, The Office, it sits atop the copper bar in a dainty dasher, perfectly within arms reach. After tasting something that needs that small touch, I often find myself reaching for a couple of light drops and immediately feeling satisfied that the drink sits balanced. I guess you could call it my ketchup – it goes on everything!

Micah Melton has definitely influenced me the most.

When I started at the Aviary he was the equivalent of a Chef de Cuisine in the kitchen – he was helping Charles Joly run the bar. I come from a very traditional bar background in which the depth of your creativity could only span as deep as your ingredients. I never really thought that I could manipulate flavours and ingredients to be what I wanted them to be until I began my tenure here at The Aviary.

What is the most memorable eating or drinking experience you’ve ever had?

My most memorable eating experience isn’t in a restaurant of any sort, actually. I’ve been lucky enough to eat in some of the most amazing restaurants, which makes me feel slightly sheepish to admit that I just can’t get over my mother’s cooking.

My mom grew up in South Korea as one of six children; she moved to the US when she was in her early 20s and soon after met my father. My dad is of Irish descent and was soon eating the home cooked meals of a Korean woman. So this was what I grew up eating and now when I go home it’s really nice to be able to (as an adult) appreciate what my mom does!

I never really thought that I could manipulate flavours and ingredients to be what I wanted them to be until I began my tenure here at The Aviary Micah came from a kitchen background and was trained very rigorously as a bartender when The Aviary opened in 2011. He played almost every role you could as one of the back of house staff here and when I started he was the most grounded of the bar team. He was easy to talk to and understood flavours well and always has good advice.

The Cocktail Lovers - 21

IN-spire

It was very cool to find a kindred spirit that turned out to be my boss – someone that also understood what chefs do and how to take advantage of your palate and all the cool things that go beyond just spirits, vermouths and cordials – I could make my own cordial, my own vermouth, my own whatever I wanted. I’ve always been into strange flavours and out of the ordinary combinations and it was (and still is) great to have a mentor who works alongside all of us day in and day out.

I think my palate is still growing and learning and I feel lucky to have an environment that challenges that.

I always feel sad when I get a Negroni that doesn’t hit the mark, but I’m so blown away when I get a perfect one

In your opinion, do you think non-alcoholic drinks can rival their alcoholic counterparts when it comes to flavour, texture and creativity?

This is always a tough one. I want to say yes because we have so many different ways to create flavour and texture. The culinary world is full of applications that allow us to manufacture what might not have been otherwise. I believe the creative side is the one that can really shine. For anyone that's been a part of the process of crafting a non-alcoholic beverage that really makes a point, you know that getting nerdy and immersed into it is half the battle.

We pulled apart the flavours of gin once and created a stock that was fun to make; we looked at the botanicals and aromas we wanted to capture and were able to get a very interesting and super-flavourful product. I feel the real compromise comes with the alcohol itself and the properties it has. I think as long as we aren’t trying to sell something for what it isn’t, there can be a competitive ground. Especially for bartenders who are trying to live healthier lifestyles and use this as a platform to raise the bar on non-alcoholic beverages.

And last but not least – a few quick ones; Favourite spirit: It’s a toss-up between rum and gin.

Shit, rum.

Coffee or tea: Coffee for sure, black.

Sweet or sour: Sour Best mixer: Angostura bitters or Amaretto… I don’t know if you mean mixer as in ‘I just raided my mom and dad’s liquor cabinet and found Blue Curaçao and Sweet and Sour Mix’ – if that’s the case I’m a sucker for Blue Curaçao, mostly because it’s blue, and looks great over crushed ice. Don't tell anyone I said that.

Bar you think people should know: PCH in San Francisco, or Proletariat in the East Village (for beer geeks).

What is your go-to drink and why?

A Negroni. I think this says a lot about the person making it. I always feel sad when I get a Negroni that doesn’t hit the mark, but I’m so blown away when I get a perfect one; how do these three ingredients just work so well together or not so well together?! It kind of hints at the age-old adage about being good at the simple things as a building block for being great at the complicated things. When you look at bartending, where it's been, or where it’s still going, one thing always stands – the classics.

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IN-spire

ANDREA GUALDI Bartender at Maybe Frank, Sydney, Australia. maybefrank.com If you had to choose only one ingredient to work with for the rest of your life, what would it be and why?

And last but not least – a few quick ones;

Agave and everything that belongs to it! I’m a huge fan of both the tradition behind it, and the flavours that you can get out of this plant.

Favourite spirit: Tequila

What is the most memorable eating or drinking experience you’ve ever had?

Best mixer: San Pellegrino Grapefruit Soda

This year I have been very impressed by Tippling Club in Singapore, and I had an amazing experience over there.

Which bartender has influenced you most in your career so far?

Coffee or tea: Tea Sweet or sour: Sour Bar you think people should know: Sottovoce bar in Bergamo, Italy. It’s a new, cool speakeasy in a little old church in my hometown. The drinks are beautiful and the atmosphere is amazing. A must see if you’re in the area.

Alex Kratena, he showed me the importance of creating a guest experience rather than focusing just on the drink itself, and the importance of hard work; even today when I’m not sure about something I ask myself “what would Alexino do in this situation?”.

What is your go-to drink and why?

Usually, prosecco and mezcal are my choices when I go out. Prosecco because it brings me back to my home Italy, for a moment, and mezcal because I love it!

In your opinion, do you think non-alcoholic drinks can rival their alcoholic counterparts when it comes to flavour, texture and creativity?

Absolutely, that's the real challenge. Making an amazing flavour with a non-alcoholic drink requires more skills and knowledge, and is way more attractive to me!

Making an amazing flavour with a nonalcoholic drink requires more skills and knowledge

The Cocktail Lovers - 23

IN-spire

So what can we thank for this urge to indulge? Well, several factors play a part, but one of the most important is flavour.

As a concept, flavour is so simple, yet so complex. If you add up all the aroma compounds and taste molecules in any given ingredient, there you have it, it’s flavour. But if you close your eyes and think back to the Sunday roast from your childhood, there you also have flavour – this time courtesy of your flavour memory. But what about the crispiness of your crisps, or the temperature of your red wine, or the pristine look of a perfectly ripe apple – are they flavour too? The short answer is yes.

Our perception of flavour is the observations made by our five senses; sight, smell, taste, touch and sound, and then interpreted by our brain. We often credit the wrong senses for what we think is happening, while other times, we just don’t credit them enough.

Take taste for example. Our tongue often basks in the glory of being the superstar among our senses, but in fact, as a tastemaker it’s pretty one dimensional. It can only really detect sweet, sour, bitter, salt and umami. But our nose, or sense of smell, can detect

thousands of different aromas which combined help our brain to interpret flavour. Just think back to how flavourless everything was the last time you had a cold, and you realise just how precious our olfactory system is.

But what about sound? Well, imagine the last time you ate crisps.

How would you rate the crunchiness? The crunchiness, or how much sound food makes when we chew, impacts how flavourful and fulfilling we find it.

And sight; we’ve all heard the expression that we eat with our eyes, and this is why bartenders and chefs spend so much time thinking of garnish and plating, the shine on our glasses, the distance between the cutlery and the napkins, and even what our restrooms look like. If you can see it – it counts!

Last but not least, we have touch, an oh-so-crucial detail that can make or break any dish or drink. Think of a soufflé or a Ramos Gin Fizz that won’t rise, or mushy pasta and overcooked meat – it just isn’t the same as when it’s cooked to perfection.

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IN-the spotlight

As our pursuit of flavour, and obsession for the culinary, has increased over the past decade, so has our interest in the people connected to it. Today, we have TV channels, magazines and websites dedicated to food and drinks, and with that come the celebrity chefs, food writers and TV hosts. This has greatly benefited our industry.

Modern chefs and bartenders are no longer confined to the kitchen or bar, we’ve been released into the world with a voice of our own. We’re actively having conversations with our guests, both via traditional channels like our workplaces, but increasingly also through social media. A dish or a drink, restaurant or bar, can become an instant hit on Instagram, but even if a picture is worth 1,000 words, it still can’t replace a sip or a bite, and it definitely can’t transport flavour!

When chefs try to create drinks, their lack of understanding of dilution is often their biggest pitfall.

Another, perhaps more surprising one, tends to be temperature. While temperature is clearly important in cooking, the impact is arguably more fragile in drinks.

But the temperature will not only affect the texture of the drink, but it will also dictate which flavours are unlocked, at what intensity and when.

THE BARTENDER/CHEF PARADOX If bartenders and chefs are so closely connected in what we do, why do we still have such difficulties familiarising ourselves with each others’ work? It comes down to the core basics; where chefs often try to concentrate flavour – think of all the stocks, purées and sauces, bartenders will try to open flavour up by adding dilution. This is because our ingredients often behave so differently.

The main ingredient bartenders work with is alcohol, which is an excellent carrier and enhancer of flavour. It comes in many shapes and forms, but what most of them have in common, is that they are highly concentrated.

This is why we often combine them with non-alcoholic ingredients to make them more pleasurable on the palate, or we use techniques such as shaking or stirring to create dilution with the help of ice.

temperature will not only affect the texture of the drink, but it will also dictate which flavours are unlocked, at what intensity and when

28 - The Cocktail Lovers

So, what is it that chefs do that bartenders find so hard to decode? Well, structure and precision for starters. A chef is trained to always have their mise ready for service, and understands the importance of making it identical each time. In the kitchen, there just aren’t any shortcuts. Do it nice, or make it twice!

Another area where chefs excel, is in their understanding of the full potential of produce. Take the cherry for example. Many bartenders will automatically think of those few weeks a year where you can get perfectly ripe, delicious and juicy cherries – ideal for refreshing drinks. But unless you learn how to work with the cherry as a starting point, and not the finished product, your cocktails will always remain somewhat one dimensional, and dare I say, boring? By learning how to ferment, pickle, preserve and cook them, you expand not only your cocktail repertoire, but also your personal flavour library.

Despite our differences, kitchens and bars continue to grow closer together, and increasingly, we see collaborations between chefs and bartenders flourish. I see this as a great thing; it can only get better, as we grow together.

IN-the spotlight

THE FUTURE OF FLAVOUR The world we live in today, is filled with an enormous diversity in the variety and availability of produce. But is this always a good thing? The amount of food waste created by today’s food industry is shocking; every year 45% of all fruit and vegetables are wasted, the same goes for roots and tubers. In the industrialised parts of the world, consumers throw away 286 million tonnes of cereal products, and of the 263 million tonnes of meat produced globally, over 20% is lost or wasted – to put it in perspective, this is equivalent to 75 million cows!

Perhaps the constant availability of everything is making us appreciate it less?

Increasingly, there’s a disconnect between what we say we want; organic, flavourful, cruelty-free and locally grown, and what we choose to spend our money on;

cheap, mass-produced, low quality but good-for-profit supermarket-bought produce. The consequences for the farmers, and ultimately us as a society, is that it will no longer be sustainable or possible, to grow nutritious produce or keep healthy and happy livestock. In the race to maximise yield and quantity, have we knowingly compromised flavour for profits?

Without any pressure to grow flavourful produce, modern agriculture will shortcut the process, and we’ll be left with bland, average but perfect looking ingredients. This does not create delicious drinks.

The future of drinking and the future of flavour is so interconnected, it’s quite impossible to separate the two.

45% OF ALL FRUIT AND VEGETABLES ARE WASTED

20%

OF MEAT PRODUCED GLOBALLY IS EITHER LOST OR WASTED

THE END

The Cocktail Lovers - 29

Promotion

Time out TAKING A BREAK FROM ALCOHOL DOESN’T MEAN MISSING OUT ON A GLASS OF SOMETHING TASTY

Always drink responsibly

The Reading List MY FAVOURITE BOOKS FOR DELICIOUSNESS

BY MONICA BERG

IN-the spotlight

IN-the spotlight

Setting the Table – Danny Meyer The Spice Companion – Lior Lev Sercarz Spices are the unsung hero of any kitchen or bar, and unless you're an enemy of flavour, this book should always be within reach of both!

Lior Lev Sercarz is a chef and owner of La Boîte, a destination spice shop in New York City, and this book will probably change the way you shop for spices, cook or mix with spices and most importantly, how you enjoy spices.

At first glance, it’s easy to dismiss this book as something only servers need to read.

Let me just shut that down straight away.

This book should be mandatory reading for anyone looking to work in hospitality, anyone who wants to be an entrepreneur or wants to succeed in business. This book has probably influenced my work style as a manager more than anything else, and I can’t recommend it enough.

The Essence of Perfume – Roja Dove Dirt Candy, A Cookbook – Amanda Cohen & Ryan Dunlavey Besides being bad ass, Amanda Cohen is also an NYC chef. With a vegetarian restaurant. This book is a graphic novel of how she built her namesake restaurant, and it shares her secrets to making super flavourful veggie dishes like Korean fried broccoli and brussel sprouts taco (both delicious btw). If you think vegetables have to be boring or healthy, look the other way!

The Art of Flavor – Daniel Patterson & Mandy Aftel This book will change the way you understand flavour, and more importantly, the creation of flavour.

Written as a collaboration between two Michelin star chef Daniel Patterson and celebrated natural perfumer Mandy Aftel, it focuses less on cooking techniques and more on the sensory side of it. Whether you’re throwing a dinner party at home or developing a new cocktail menu, The Art of Flavor will widely broaden your flavour library.

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Bartenders (myself included) have long been fascinated by the perfume world, and especially how perfumers work with aromas and structure scents. Knowing that scent is perhaps more important than taste when it comes to eating and drinking, it’s no wonder that bartenders and chefs look beyond the culinary for inspiration. This book is not only stunningly beautiful, but also exceptionally well written.

Promotion

Christmas.

Does it really come but once a year?

We’re upstairs at Callooh Callay in East London. There’s a Christmas tree in the corner, the room is festooned with tinsel, classic yuletide tunes are playing and people are wearing festive sweaters, comedy reindeer antlers or even a full elf outfit. Yes, it can only be one very special time of year. January.

It’s the final of The Fords Gin Festive Cocktail Challenge and you can always count on the team behind this spirit to do things differently; hence Christmas drinks in the first month of 2018. It’s not about being different for the sake of it though.

Most beautiful, tasty and Christmassy of all, though, was the team effort from Sager + Wilde – Marcis Dzelzainis, Jackie Lia and Martin Ball. The body and richness of a flip, festive ingredients such as frankincense water and served in a celebratory Champagne flute. All finished off with a sparkling, edible gold spray. Visitors to Sager + Wilde Paradise Row were lucky indeed to be enjoying Christmas in a glass with the Frankincense Fizz.

Next up, how about an Easter cocktail competition? If it’s as much fun as this, we’re there!

While some people were dreaming of a white Christmas, Dan Warner, Fords Gin European Sales and Marketing Director and Nick Caputo, Fords Gin Ambassador, were dreaming of ways to give bars, bartenders and their guests something different in the festive period.

Frankincense Fizz 40ml Fords Gin 15ml Chinotto liqueur

PHOTOGRAPHY: ELLIOT DAVIES

The brief? Create a Fords Gin cocktail that looks great, tastes amazing and has the all-important Christmas factor. “With a lot of cocktail competitions, the drinks are outstanding but rarely find their way into the hands of regular guests”, says Dan, “we wanted these drinks to actually be on the bars’ menus.” 44 London bars took up the yuletide challenge and the best ones became The 12 Cocktails of Christmas – the shortlisted drinks for the final.

2.5ml frankincense water 1 egg yolk 25ml orange juice 20ml lemon juice 20ml sugar syrup (1:1) Top soda

Which brings us back to that oh-so-Christmassy room, 12 festively adorned bartenders and judges Claire Warner, industry stalwart, Max Ernst Ostwald, Bar Manager Hawksmoor Air Street and Gary Sharpen of The Cocktail Lovers.

Short of being served by Santa himself the drinks couldn’t have been more Christmastide terrific. Highlights included Christmas pudding in a super indulgent slushy (The Wigmore), mince pies in a delicious milk punch (Scout), reindeer-shaped glasses (Rev JW Simpson), the ultimate flip (68 & Boston) and a kitsch home-made Christmas print skirt (House of Tippler). Did everyone answer that brief? Oh yes.

Shake all ingredients, strain into a Flute and top with soda. fordsgin.com Please enjoy Fords Gin responsibly

Discover the finest contemporary silver and jewellery from over 300 designer-makers. www.thegoldsmithsdirectory.co.uk

Cocktail set: Martyn Pugh

1.0 JARR If you haven’t jumped on the ‘booch’ craze yet, no one will introduce you to the new age of kombucha as well as London’s Jarr. Perfect on its own, or as a mixer for your drinks, it comes in three flavours: original, ginger and passion fruit. They even have a booch bar if you find yourself in Hackney Wick. jarrkombucha.com

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3.0 RICANTI The Amazon is a magical place and Ricanti has developed a series of bitters using Amazonian ingredients. Rarely seen outside of Peru, this Citricos Amazonicos is made with peels from two indigenous varieties and is perfect for Martinis.

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5.0 EMPIRICAL SPIRITS Based in Copenhagen, Empirical Spirits is a new generation distillery. In an attempt to craft unique flavour profiles, they’ve re-examined the process; from the local heirloom grains and bespoke yeast strains, down to the in-house koji production and distilling under vacuum, with ultrasonic transducers. Easy Tiger is a gin-like spirit made with Douglas Fir, which is foraged near the distillery. empiricalspirits.co

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FLAVOUR Vs.

RECIPES

IN-focus

WHICH METHOD OF LEARNING GETS YOUR VOTE? FLAVOUR SAYS ALEX KRATENA

RECIPES SAYS MONICA BERG

The first thing you learn in culinary school is that being a chef is far more complex than most people realise. From your white commis cap down to your shoes, everything is designed for safety, efficiency and cleanliness. In fact, sanitation is the first subject you’ll tackle, learning how factors from temperature to humidity, pH to protein content, affect the safety of everything you cook. From the choice of ingredients to the precision required for each preparation, your day-to-day work as a culinary student is all about learning to be focused and to multitask. Everything is a balance of time and precision – do it fast, but do it right.

Recipes are the building blocks of drinks. They’re the footprints of the bartenders before us, and the compass guiding us when we set out to create our own drinks. Without them, there would be a lack of order, and more importantly, it would be impossible to classify and categorise drinks. How would you know your Whisky Sour from your Rum Sour, if it wasn’t for the recipe? For the expert tippler, it might not be a problem, but do we all need to become experts just to order a drink at the bar?

When you start in bartender school, you learn history, production, spirit categories; you learn to use a shaker and mixing glass, and then you realise that old recipes often don’t work that well when you recreate them.

It’s like closely following Escoffier’s recipes and then noticing that they often completely lack salt. Equally, many historic drinks simply lack salt, sugar, or they appear flat, not balanced, too sour, too plain. It’s evident that the thought and process of old bartenders was much the same as ours, but the produce, environment and palates have changed and the aim of the modern bartender is not to create a monster museum, but to serve delicious cocktails.

Instead of teaching culinary techniques, we teach the future generation proportions that need to be memorised by heart. Recipes are good as guidelines, but I suggest that instead of focusing on historical data, we teach how to best extract flavours from ingredients and balance them, how to blanch a tomato, why you need to brush your citrus with sugar, alcohol and ascorbic acid when making dehydrated garnishes, and why you should consider changing the ratios of your Manhattan depending on what vermouth and whisky you use.

I suggest we give bartenders the information they need to start thinking. When you start as a cook you learn different techniques, you learn why you should add lemon or vinegar to hollandaise and that’s where our young bartenders should be more like our culinary students, they should be learning why instead of what.

And what about bartender education – how do we train bartenders to make drinks, if we don’t have any standards for them to follow? Many of us start bartending young, and my palate was as inexperienced as me back then. If my teachers hadn’t equipped me with an assortment of classic cocktails to memorise, I would have struggled to confidently recommend and make drinks for my guests.

A recipe gives us common ground and a starting point, but it doesn’t have to be absolute. Take for example the legendary Dry Martini; its classic recipe makes it re-creatable anywhere, and thus we can more or less walk into any bar in the world, order it and expect the bartender to know of it.

Through recipes, we can standardise drinks, which makes it easier for bartenders to understand and work with them. It gives them a language to bond over. When we’re creating new drinks, f lavour is a great source of inspiration, but it’s too subjective to function as a guideline. At the end of the day, what’s the value of creating delicious drinks that can’t be replicated? Without working towards a standardised recipe, how can an entire bar team be sure they’re making the same drink?

Creativity, especially for the inexperienced, needs to be counterbalanced with knowledge and structure, otherwise, we would all be trapped in a world of improv, which really should be reserved for the theatre.

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Promotion

FEELING THE HEAT IN TRINIDAD at the ninth Angostura

®

Global Cocktail Challenge Angostura® Global Cocktail Challenge finalists have all the luck. Not only do they get flown out to Trinidad for the grand finale, they bag themselves a money-can’t-buy opportunity to experience the incredible sights, heat and sounds of the world-famous Trinidad carnival as well.

It makes for a thrilling, action-packed five days. There’s culture, starting with a fascinating tour of the Angostura Distillery and Museum – even being granted permission inside the secret Bitters Room no less – as well as taking in the unmistakable rhythms of the steel bands, seeing the island by boat and experiencing the childlike joy of slathering on mud and paint in the glorious night-long street party that is J’ouvert.

There’s carnival. Or ‘mas as it’s known by the locals.

All competitors are kitted out in full costume for this spectacular, in-your-face riot of colour, feathers, sequins and Lycra (that goes for the boys as well as the girls), to fully immerse themselves in the biggest and best event on the Trinidad calendar. Trust us, it’s something they’ll never forget.

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And there’s the competition…now in its ninth year, the Angostura® Global Cocktail Challenge (AGCC 2018) is the perfect vehicle to showcase the rich selection of goodies in the company’s portfolio. Starting with the rums – Angostura 1824®, Angostura 1919®, Angostura® 7 Year Old, Angostura® 5 Year Old, Angostura® Reserve and recently launched Angostura® 1787– all varying in depth, character and complexity. Amaro di ANGOSTURA® – the newest and much-lauded addition to the range – is also highlighted and of course, Angostura® bitters – both aromatic and orange play a role in the drinks.

our goal is to collate a suite of inventive modern classics that showcase Angostura’s® unique brands

So what does it take to be crowned AGCC 2018 champion? First step: beating off the competition in their respective regions by devising two original cocktails: the first with one of the aforementioned Angostura® rums and a minimum of two dashes of either Angostura® aromatic or Angostura® orange bitters, the other with Amaro di ANGOSTURA®. Next, to do it all again in front of an esteemed panel of judges at the Global Finals.

It won’t be an easy task. Tasting the drinks, analysing the performances and assessing who best fits the position of Angostura® Global Brand Ambassador representing the House of Angostura® portfolio for two years will be Mike Ryan (Kimpton Hotels, Chicago), Monica Berg (award-winning bartender and author, London, London), JJ Goodman (co-founder London Cocktail Clubs, London), Carol Homer (Senior Manager responsible for Blending, New Product Development and Quality Assurance at Angostura®) and last year’s winner from Trinidad, Neal Ramdhan.

“The Angostura® Global Cocktail Challenge aims to discover and encourage new and creative uses of the House of Angostura® portfolio by gifted, bartenders around the world,” says company CEO Genevieve Jodhan, “our goal is to collate a suite of inventive modern classics that showcase Angostura’s® unique brands.”

We’re certain they’ll deliver the goods.

The ninth Angostura® Global Cocktail Challenge takes place on 11th February 2018. Check angosturaglobalcocktailchallenge.com for live streaming and The Cocktail Lovers social media channels for updates throughout the day.

Please drink Angostura® products responsibly

THE WINNER TAKES IT ALL The grand prize…

US$10,000 and a two-year contract as Angostura® Global Brand Ambassador representing the Angostura® portfolio

Competing for the prize Daniel Gregory, Australia (Australia) Alexander Kirles, USA (USA) Maximiliano Vallée Valletta, Canada (Canada) Leesha Marcellin, Antigua (Caribbean) Martin Tummino, Argentina (Latin America) Thomas Gedney-Higham, UK (UK) Pedro Martinez, France (Europe) John Mansour, Lebanon (Middle East & Africa) Joshua Ivanovic, Malaysia (Asia) Raymond Letoa, New Zealand (New Zealand) Kishion Guillaume, Trinidad & Tobago (Trinidad & Tobago)

IN-formed

MAINS & MARTINIS

RESTAURANTS WHERE THE COCK TAILS ARE AS GOOD AS THE FOOD

Dishoom

Rudie's

5 Stable Street, London, N1C 4AB. T: 020 7420 9321. dishoom.com/kings-cross

50 Stoke Newington Road, London, N16 7XB. T: 020 7249 9930. rudieslondon.com

Who: Those in search of a fresh take on Indian dining.

What: Inspired by the old Irani cafés of Bombay, popular in the last century their spirit is alive and well in Dishoom.

When: Mon-Wed 8am-11pm, Thurs-Fri 8am-midnight, Sat 9am-midnight, Sun 9am-11pm.

Wear: Everything goes from office wear, via trainers, to something just a little bit smarter.

Ms S says: The only place that I'll queue up for – this place is a delight.

Hot dish: The Chicken Berry Britannia, a classic based on an original Irani café speciality but with a tantalising twist.

Cool cocktail: Coriander and chai syrup give the Colaba Colada a delightful, herbaceous edge.

Mr G says: As well as the alternative versions of Indian classics, they have a lot of fun with their drinks too.

Hot dish: A Bombay take on the classic full English breakfast has got to be a good idea. Spicy scrambled eggs, peppery Shropshire pork sausages, masala baked beans and buttered, home-made buns.

Cool cocktail: The Viceroy’s Old Fashioned is typical of what they do so well here, taking something familiar and giving it their own take, enough to be different but not being too clever. In this case introducing a bay leaf reduction and green tea for a subtle and appealing dryness

Who: This has neighbourhood bar and restaurant written all over it, but well worth making it a destination, especially on a Sunday.

What: Smoked jerk cooking, Jamaican rums and reggae.

When: Mon-Thurs 6pm-10pm, Fri-Sat 12pm-11pm, Sun 12pm-9pm.

Wear: Whatever makes you feel good.

Ms S says: I love the Jamaican take on the traditional Sunday roast. Throw in the cocktails and a great soundtrack and that’s your afternoon sorted.

Hot dish: A whole chicken (for sharing obviously) roasted jerk style, with sides of roast yams, pumpkins and sweetcorn, not to mention gravy with a dash of jerk rum.

Cool cocktail: The Jerk It Up Daiquiri (Appleton Special, orange juice and pimento) is definitely on the sweeter side but has a nice hint of heat.

Mr G says: When it’s a little cold and grey outside this is the place to grab a little Jamaican sunshine.

Hot dish: Yes, Sunday’s are all about the roast, but if you want to go all out for jerk overload then head for the platter of chicken, pork, lamb and sweetcorn.

Cool cocktail: The perfect accompaniment to sharing the Sunday roast is the equally convivial sharing punch Katch A Fire (a selection of Jamaican rums finished with flaming Wray & Nephew Overproof Rum).

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The Ivy Soho Brasserie 26-28 Broadwick Street, London, W1F 8JB. T: 020 3301 1166. theivysohobrasserie.com Who: Anyone working or playing in the heart of Soho.

What: Inspired by the iconic Ivy restaurant mothership this is one of several diffusion outlets that have been popping up.

When: Mon-Sat 8am-midnight, Sun 9am-11pm.

Wear: Like Soho itself it’s all about individuality, so absolutely anything goes.

Ms S says: From the design to the dishes there’s a lot of attention to detail that makes it feel smart but never stuffy.

Hot dish: The Blackened Cod Fillet (baked in a banana leaf with baby pak choi, shaved radish, toasted sesame and yuzu mayonnaise) – bursting with flavour but virtuous too.

Cool cocktail: The Romantic Era (Briottet Rose liqueur, Sipsmith sloe gin and hibiscus topped with Champagne) adds to the glamour of the surroundings perfectly.

Mr G says: I love the space, it’s bustling but with some quiet areas that are equally good for business meetings or romantic get togethers.

Hot dish: Here my favourite steak tartare has a little Laphroaig added to the mix and thick cut chips on the side. Delicious.

Cool cocktail: The Illuminated Ivy (Wyborowa vodka, homemade sake syrup and yuzu juice) couldn’t be more accurately named, it positively glows in the glass. Slips down very nicely too.

IN-formed

The Ivy Soho Brasserie

The Cocktail Lovers - 59

IN-formed The

Cocktail

Girl

In pursuit of London’s coolest bars.

Coupette In the depths of winter, who could blame this Cocktail Girl for wanting to go on a European jaunt that embraces the sophisticated side of life?

And while post-Christmas budget might not allow for an actual flight, luckily French flair can be found only a short bus ride away, courtesy of Coupette.

Located in Bethnal Green – already home to some staunch cocktail bar favourites – Coupette was making waves before it even opened thanks to Chris Moore, who previously headed up the Beaufort Bar at the Savoy Hotel. Now it’s been open for just over six months, do the cocktails take our French fancy?

The menu serves not only as an education in French ingredients (you’ll find calvados, cidre and poiré feature heavily, and in ways you might not expect), but also as a 101 in French historical figures. Six, to be exact avant-garde cultural icons from the worlds of art, music, photography and dance. Each muse is accompanied by six cocktails, and flicking your way through the menu definitely beats conjugating verbs with Madame Bowden all those years ago.

One drink that needs to be tried is ‘The Vine’. This is a real chance to jump into the deep end and embrace French ingredients – nine, to be exact.

Noilly Prat, Vin de Liqueur and Jurançon (it’s a dry French wine, fyi), all make an appearance, and the result is a no-holds barred dry cocktail that seems to reveal more levels of flavour and intensity with each sip. One to be appreciated while admiring the bar, the top of which is covered with vintage 10-Franc coins.

After this taste sensation I couldn’t resist countering it with the relative simplicity of ‘Apples’ – consisting of just Calvados of the Month and whatever apples happen to be seasonal, then carbonated for a fizzy finish.

Lusciously addictive and basically transporting me to a sunny field under a wide blue sky with each sip, it’s a burst of fruity splendour that might have you nostalgic for picnic blankets and pop.

The ‘Room With A View’ is a rich, heady potion that includes Muscat, Eau de Noix and orange caramel, and seems to coat the tongue in velvet, while the particular favourite of this Cocktail Girl was the Truffled White Negroni. A twist on the traditional herbaceous punch of your normal Negroni, this version uses Escubac, Lillet Blanc and Suze for a more fragrant botanical finish, while that earthy, pungent wave of truffle elevates it to levels of satisfying luxury. What can I say? Sometimes you need the finer things in life.

And this bar is where you’ll find them – with its inventive and adventurous cocktail menu that holds more than a few surprises. Apparently 'coupette'– as well as being an elegant glass – translates to ‘cheeky one’. Well, let me tell you – after a night here you’ll certainly be embracing your cheeky side with wild abandon. Forget the flight – I’m heading to East London to get my dose of ‘joie de vivre.’

THINGS THAT MAKE US GO, OOH! The only thing better than a Berluti leather anything, is Berluti leather fashioned into a chic Champagne carrier. Of course, being designed by Haider Ackerman every detail of the dark cherry Krug x Berluti Wild Journey Backpack is seriously lush. There’s thermofoil lining to keep your bottle perfect and chilled, two glasses, chrome bottle stopper and a bottle of Krug Rosé, of course. krug.com

HIGH FLIERS

Weighing up the options of who to fly with this year? Have you heard who Virgin Atlantic have partnered with to create the cocktail lists for their Clubhouses? Only the best bars in the corresponding cities, that’s all. Flying from Heathrow? Sip complimentary drinks by Dandelyan (above). JFK? There’s Employees Only. And on it goes: San Francisco has Smuggler’s Cove, Gatwick has Super Lyan and Newark has drinks from BlackTail. New to the Clubhouse collection this year is The Walker Inn for Los Angeles and brand new bar Mootee (see p. 70) in Johannesburg. And you wonder why love Virgin? Get booking at virginatlantic.com

423 Bethnal Green Road, E2 0AN. coupette.co.uk

The Cocktail Lovers - 61

IN-formed

WE’RE LOVING... …this Zeppelin Funk Punch, new on the menu at Red Frog, a must-visit stop when you’re in Lisbon. The rich claretcoloured concoction is a clarified milk punch made from Chase GB Dry Gin, Dalva Late Bottled Port, Earl Grey tea, buttermilk and blueberries, with a chocolate cup nestled in the centre. Perfect for Valentine’s Day. facebook.com/redfrogspeakeasy

LET’S HEAR IT FOR THE GIRLS…

2018 is officially Year of the Woman so we’ll be celebrating a few of our favourite in each issue. Starting with Claire Warner, formerly Director of Spirit Creation at Belvedere.

She’s long been a champion of healthier living in the drinks industry with her fantastic initiative Drink, Eat, Live and was a former contributor on all things health in this magazine. Claire now combines all of those attributes in her new role as Head of Brands creating new, non-alcoholic products at Seedlip Drinks. We can’t wait for the results.

Watch this space for details. seedlipdrinks.com

BUY THE BOOK

Wherever your travels take you, be sure to consult this little gem at just shy of 300 pages it's filled with over 500 bars and drinking experiences to enjoy around the globe, as told by the world's drinks experts.

Straight Up: Where to drink & what to drink on every continent,

by Joel Harrison & Neil Ridley, published by Octopus. Available from amazon.com

62 - The Cocktail Lovers

IN-ternational

BELLA MILANO

IN-ternational

Prada, MaxMara, Gucci, Missoni, Ferretti, Armani – most of our favourite designers are Italian. We’re also rather partial to the odd tipple from that part of the world – particularly our new favourite aperitif, Italicus and Peroni Ambra, the aperitivo-inspired beer.

But after a recent visit to Milan (thank you Disaronno!), we’ve added another object of desire: it’s bars. Check out our new favourite Italian classics below…

1930 No address These days you really don’t have to look too hard to find a speakeasy bar. Which is an oxymoron given the fact that they were originally all about decoy entrances only accessed by secret passwords and special invitation. 1930 harks back to that era. Don’t even try to be smart by looking up the address online. You won’t find it. Only a select few have access to the clandestine location. And they earn that by being hand picked from the guests at MAG Café (p. 68). Once given the special password (or membership for regulars), their details are phoned through to the bar and upon arrival, they utter the secret word/s and in they go.

It does make you feel smug as you saunter in. Instead of jostling for space in a crowded bar, you get to lounge around in an exclusive club set out like a cosy living room circa.

1930. That means vintage tables and chairs, all manner of retro paraphernalia, a jazz soundtrack either live or recorded, plus a bonus if you’re partial to a cigarette – a WWII bunker which serves as a smoking room.

There’s only room for 30 or so, which makes entry all the more desirable. Chill out as your bartender concocts your drink of choice to enjoy in the genteel environment.

BackDoor 43 Ripa Di Porta Ticinese 43, 20143 Milan

outside backdoor 43, the smallest bar in the world

With space for just two seated at the bar and another two to the side, bars don’t come more compact than this. It’s intimate alright, the smallest bar in the world no less but there’s nothing gimmicky about it. In fact, the detail it packs into the 4m-square room, BackDoor 43 manages to put larger bars to shame.

The experience is pretty special too. How often do you have the undivided attention of a personal bartender on hand to mix your drinks – we’re talking outside the home?

Make the most of it, it’s yours for two hours during which time you get to set the mood of the evening by selecting your playlist and sitting back, enjoying fine conversation and watching your host at work. Take time to survey the fabulous details in the room, including the map on the ceiling, myriad bottles on the shelves and mix of sepia photography and framed, mounted butterfly displays.

Every inch has been put to good use – there’s even a bathroom to the back and a serving window to the side for those not lucky enough to secure a spot inside. Here’s where customers on the street can knock on the hatch, place an order and be served a cocktail in a paper cup. And just because that might be a bit boring compared to what’s going on inside, punters don’t get to see who’s serving them. Instead they’re greeted by a pair of hands, or even creepier, the bartender wearing a V for Vendetta mask. One tiny space – two big ideas.

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clockwise from top left: carlo e camilla, backdoor 43, il bar at the bulgari hotel

Camparino in Galleria Piazza del Duomo 21, 20121, Milan There are times when you’ve simply got to give in to the fact that you’re a tourist. Making time for an aperitif in the Camparino bar when you’re in Milan is a case in point. Ignore the crowds, they’re inevitable, instead focus on the splendour of the place – there’s plenty to take in, starting with the dazzling neon sign and continuing with soaring ceilings, intricate mosaic wall panels and stylish wrought-iron chandeliers – all in a splendid Art Nouveau style.

The glorious building dates back to 1867 and was acquired by Gruppo Campari in 1915 with the aim of revolutionising the way Campari was drunk. Modernday bartenders may think they’re being cool with their fancy ice programs but over 100 years ago Camparino installed a special hydraulic system in the cellar to ensure a continuous flow of iced soda water to the bar. Genius.

It’s changed names a few times – switching from Zucca, to Miani, then Zucca again until 2012 when the Camparino sign, designed by Ugo Nespolo, returned to the Galleria. To drink? Cocktail-wise? Anything as long as it’s Campari based. Choose from a selection including on the rocks, with seltzer, orange and in a Negroni. And don’t forget, there is one way that you can show you’re in-the-know: stand at the bar like the locals and order your drink rather than paying more to sit at a table.

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Carlo e Camilla via Giuseppe Meda 24, 20141 Milan. carloecamillainsegheria.it You’ve got Tanja Solci to thank for both the imposing site and the equally impressive look of the Carlo e Camilla. It was her grandparents who acquired the former sawmill in 1930 and her tasteful eye that created the aesthetics of the dramatic and extremely beautiful restaurant and bar.

Like something out of Peter Greenaway’s sumptuous The Cook, The Thief, His Wife & Her Lover, the theatrical space with its T-shaped banqueting table, Cappellini chairs and mismatched vintage porcelain plates lends itself to an evening of feasting and glamour. Food comes courtesy of Michelin-starred chef Carlo Cracco and the drinks, until recently were dreamed up by the brilliant mind of Filippo Sisti whose thinking and creativity held no bounds.

Who will take over from him remains to be seen but in the meantime, we suggest heading there for his existing drinks menu anyway. Or at the very least, a glass of wine – this place definitely deserves your attention.

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above: the ice well at iter; below: the relaxed, homely environment at iter

Il Bar at the Bulgari Hotel, via Privata Fratelli Gabba 7b, 20121 Milano. bulgarihotels.com/en_US/milan Fancy a spot of fabulousness, dahling? Slip into your designer clobber (just make sure it’s black) and park yourself at the sexy oval resin bar (black, of course) at the Bulgari Hotel. Set in a private drive in a renovated 18th century palazzo, it definitely has a wow factor about it. But despite the high gloss and glamour, there’s a genuine warmth throughout.

The bar is busy with hotel guests, business folk and as you might expect, the fashion set, and the drinks list ticks each box accordingly. Cocktails are split into Classics (think Americanos, Manhattans, Gin Fizzes etc); Martinis (including Vespers and your regular gin or vodka types, plus a fruity selection including Apple, Elderflower and Passionfruit). There’s a small selection of Bulgari Bar Specials. again, sweet but a touch more adventurous (St. Germain Spritz, Mango Spice and the Bulgari with gin, Aperol and fresh orange juice, pineapple and lime juices), and for gin lovers there’s the G&T Selection featuring Gin Mare, G’Vine and 209 paired with complimentary garnishes and tonics.

For those laying off the sauce, there are alcohol-free cocktails (quite fruity but if that’s not your bag, try the 0.1%, grapefruit juice, tonic water and Peychaud bitters).

Time your visit to coincide with Bulgari aperitivo (6.30pm-9pm) and you’ll get an array of extremely tasty snacks thrown in, making your €22 cocktail (€19 non-alcoholic) much better value.

Iter via Mario Fusetti 1, 20143, Milan Flavio Angiolillo and Marco Russo are bloody clever so-and-so’s. Not content with their successes at BackDoor 43, 1930 and MaG Cafe they’ve recently added Iter to the family. There’s no doubting that it has the same DNA as it’s siblings – strong concept, good positioning, funky setting – all the things that ensure each of their bars are winners. But Iter definitely has its own personality. For starters, it’s more industrial and modern. But any hard lines from the exposed pipes are softened with cosy furnishings and tastefully homely design.

The other difference is the concept. Every six months the restaurant and bar will ‘travel’ to a different country, so the food, drinks, even the decor will take inspiration from that particular stop. For the opening in September last year, it stayed at home, exploring the joys of the various regions in Italy, with aperitif-style drinks, food like mamma used to make and ‘Nonna’s Sunday’.

Things we love: ice wells at the counter for customers to keep their drinks cold – so simple but so thoughtful, the menu designed as a series of postcards – in fact, the whole set-up. Honestly, we could have stayed here all day.

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MaG Cafe Ripa di Porta Ticinese 43, 20143 Milan

Allow yourself extra time to plough through the menu – it’s a biggie and even when you've worked your way through it, the chances are you’ll be none the wiser.

The best bet is to take pot luck, based on your spirit preference and wait for the drama to unfold.

Rotonda Bistro Via Enrico Besana 12, 20122 Milan

the bartenders at secret drinking den 1930

Three words of advice if you plan on visiting MaG in the evening: get there early! This place gets seriously busy and the later you leave it, the more likely it is that you’ll be spending the best part of your night on the pavement.

Nice as that is (it’s on a bustling canalside and seats are provided), it’s not a match for the good times inside.

This is the main bar in Flavio Angiolillo and Marco Russo’s stable and like the others, it’s decked out with a quirky mix of furniture, photos and artefacts which gives it an instantly welcoming vibe, attracting everyone from students to old timers like us. With good reason it turns out. The energy is up, the service is on and the mood is 100% infectious.

As is the Italian way, plates of cheese and hams are served as a complimentary accompaniment to the drinks, either a top-notch selection of cocktails or a nice choice of wines. It’s not the place for a quiet drink, at least not in the evening. If you want to fully observe the antique Argentinian counter, cabinets and curiosities, go during the day for a coffee and pastry. Then either stay or go back later for the party atmosphere.

Nottingham Forest Viale Piave 1, 20129 Milano Who would have thought that a Caribbean-inspired bar named after an English football team would have kickstarted the cocktail scene in Milan? Weirder still, it focuses on molecular mixology… In many ways, it's just as bonkers as it sounds but there’s an undeniable brilliance about it too. A fact that hasn’t gone unnoticed by the industry professionals. Nottingham Forest has been a regular fixture on the prestigious World’s 50 Best Bars list.

It’s Dario Comino’s baby and you’ll find him weaving his magic behind the bar – adding foams here, spherifications there, then assembling the lot in all kinds of crazy vessels. Instagram was invented for this kind of stuff and with its mix of artefacts and over 2,000 bottles from the Far East, Caribbean and Africa, the decor doesn’t disappoint on that front either.

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What do you do if you take on the top spot in a bar only to be told by the Principality of Milan that you’re not allowed to serve any spirits? If you’re Diego Ferrari you turn it into a positive and as well as offering delicious coffees and teas all day, you devise a cool and clever menu of low abv cocktails, all 21% abv or less.

It works perfectly in the family-friendly venue which is set in a former deconsecrated church dating back to 1700. First on the list when Rotonda Bistro opened three years ago was the classic Spritz but over time Diego has made it a mission to devise new and exciting drinks using mainly, but not exclusively, Italian aperitifs.

There’s the Japanjito (Zucchero, lime, mint, sakè, soda and green tea kombucha), Besanino (Bitter Bordiga, Carpano Rosso, Zucca, Braulio and Angostura bitters), and Bloody Mary (tomatoes, wasabi, Tabasco, lemon, sakè and port). This year for the first time, the Bistro has been granted a licence to introduce spirits. But don’t go expecting anything like whisky on the rocks or a shot of tequila – they can only be mixed into a cocktail. Not that Diego minds the restrictions, he’s become an expert on low abv cocktails and has written a book Low Alcohol Cocktails – The New Frontier in Mixology, available in the next few months.

Please note: most bars in Milan close all day Monday.

Check for details.

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Call of the wild: Strong looks, strong concept, Mootee bar in Johannesburg looks set to be one of the biggest bar openings of the year. It's headed up by one of our favourite bartenders, Denzel Heath. Be sure to have it on your radar.

mooteebar.com

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