ISSUE 26
WINTER 2018
FULL ON FLAVOUR
ISSN 2052 0603
LESSONS IN TASTE FOR 2018 With guest editor Monica Berg
- Photos: Fotolia
PUT A SPELL ON YOUR COCKTAIL
Caribbean Pineapple Premium Liqueur Product of France
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IN-tro
FLAVOUR T H ER E’S A WO R D TO
CHEW O V E R
A N D
DIGEST The dictionary defines it as ‘an indication of the essential character of something'. Monica Berg devotes this entire issue to it. “Flavour is everything; a life without it would be both boring and empty,” says the award-winning bartender, author and selfconfessed flavour geek, who guest edits our first edition of 2018. She’s done a brilliant job, showcasing an array of fascinating flavours – some known, others less so but all definitely worth acquainting your palate with. She starts with her pick of the next generation of tastemakers (p. 18), and moves on to explain the simple but complex meaning of flavour and the affect it has on our enjoyment of taste (p. 26). Monica shares her secrets too, including her favourite books for deliciousness (p. 32), exotic products worth travelling for (p. 38), and ingredients that pack a punch in the flavour department (p. 40). How about food we hear you cry? Don’t worry, she’s got that covered. Check out Food for Thought, where chefs and bartenders take one ingredient and use it to dramatic effect (p. 48). And what have we been up to while Monica’s done the hard work? Why trying her suggestions of course. It would have been rude not to. We suggest you do the same.
Happy imbibing! Ms S & Mr G thecocktaillovers.com
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The Cocktail Lovers - 3
IN-gredients
9. IN-the know
32. IN-the spotlight
The reading list
The top ten books you need to up your flavour game
25 reasons to be a cocktail lover this season
Drinking to our health and mixing G with a T– just two of the things we're looking forward to this season
38. IN-the spotlight Flavour hunting
Exotic ingredients worth jumping on a plane for
14. IN-the hotseat
40. IN-dulge
Talking food, foraging and flavour with our guest editor Monica Berg
Five beautiful bottles that pack a flavoursome punch
Monica Berg
18. IN-spire
The rare necessities
48. IN-the mix
The palate pleasers Introducing the next generation of tastemakers
Food for thought
What happens when six chefs and six bartenders from around the world are given the same ingredient to work with
26. IN-spire
54. IN-focus
Everything you need to know about how our brain interprets flavour
Is it better to create by learning why instead of what? Alex Kratena and Monica Berg each put forward their case
Why flavour, why not flavour?
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Flavour vs. recipes
IN-gredients
58. IN-formed
Mains & Martinis
Three London restaurants where the drinks are more than a match for the food
Editors: Sandrae Lawrence Gary Sharpen Sub-editor: Sally Briggs Creative Director: James Cheverton at Burnt Studio burntstudio.com Illustrations: Clementine Mitchell
60. IN-formed
Photography: Beth Crockatt Rob Lawson roblawson.com Contributors: Rebecca Milford Lauryn Tomlinson With huge thanks to our guest editor Monica Berg
For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact: mail@thecocktaillovers.com 020 7242 2546
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News, views and reviews from the cocktail front
64. IN-ternational
Printed by Stones The Printers Limited on FSC accredited paper
Bella Italia
Falling for the magic of Milan’s most stylish bars
Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers Magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited.
The Cocktail Lovers Issue No. 26 Winter 2018 The Cocktail Lovers magazine is published by The Cocktail Lovers Ltd. in London, UK PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY The Cocktail Lovers are proud winners of Best Cocktail & Spirits Publication, Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards 2016 and The London Evening Standard Progress 1000 – London’s Most Influential People 2015 and 2017
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Contributors
Clementine Mitchell
Emil Seth Åreng
Clementine is an illustrator, designer, teacher and mum (not always in that order). She lives and works in London, collaborating with and working for the food and drinks industry in the UK and further afield. She has worked with brands including The Langham hotel, Artesian bar, St. John restaurant, The Savoy, Absolut and Bacardí. Clementine is also a senior lecturer at Ravensbourne University and currently full-time mum to her four-month old baby girl. For this issue she’s illustrated the ingredients in the Food for Thought feature, p. 48.
Renowned for putting Umeå – in the northern part of Sweden – on the map as far as bartenders are concerned, Emil has represented his country in numerous global cocktail competitions, most notably Diageo World Class and Bacardí Legacy. His other accolades include being named Best Bartender in Sweden at both the Bartender’s Choice Awards and the Oslo Bar Show, and picking up the Best Cocktail Menu award at the Bartender’s Choice Awards for Open/Closed, the bar he manages in Umeå. Additionally, he’s Chief of First Impressions (or Global Brand Ambassador) at Hernö Gin, blogger at Café Magazine and author of cocktail book Salongs i Norrland. Here, he's created a recipe for Food for Thought, p. 48.
Clementine's favourite flavour: “Salt and vinegar – it's the perfect mix of tangy and salty that makes me think of pub gardens and a nice glass of white wine (or maybe it’s the wine that’s actually my favourite flavour!”)
Emil's favourite flavour: “Cloudberries, nothing beats sitting in the woods on your own and eating them freshly picked. If anyone says any different, they haven’t lived.”
Rob Lawson
Constança Cordeiro
A regular contributor to The Cocktail Lovers Magazine, with good reason: Rob has been photographing drinks for over 20 years. His work takes in both editorial and advertising campaigns for the likes of Haig Club, The Balvenie, Grey Goose, Martini, Smirnoff, Ketel One Vodka and Plymouth Gin – in fact, he’s travelled the world working with all the major drinks brands. “My early career saw me assisting photographers like Terence Donovan, Terry O’Neill and George Logan, but after photographing drinks for the first few issues of CLASS Magazine in 1997, I realised I'd found my niche and was hooked.” His photographs of flavoursome drinks can be found on page 40.
Having spend three years working in some of London's leading bars such as Original Sin and Peg + Patriot, Constança recently moved back to her native Portugal to open her own venue. The concept? To use only the freshest Portuguese ingredients. In the meantime, she's developing CO-Lab Project where each month she invites two international bartenders to explore the Portuguese countryside and develop recipes from the region – all of which will be replicated in her bar Toca da Raposa, when it opens in May 2018. She shows off her flair for flavour in this issue on page 48.
Rob's favourite flavour: “I’ve been loving making Daiquiri’s recently – make them quickly and drink them slowly, that's my motto! Love ‘em!”
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Constança's favourite flavour: "It has to be creamy and peachy. Don't get me wrong, it doesn't have to have cream or peach in it but that fullness and texture gets me every time."
25
IN-the know
REASONS TO BE A COCKTAIL LOVER THIS SEASON
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Having a Cubist moment As you might expect from the Tate Modern, its first ever solo Picasso exhibition is going to be pretty mega. Over 100 paintings, sculptures and drawings mixed in with personal objects, all from 1932, the most creative year in his life, will be on show. And when you’re done with the culture, call into the café. On the menu? Love, Fame and Tragedy cocktails and a two-course food menu inspired by the show. The EY Exhibition: Picasso 1932 – Love, Fame Tragedy is at Tate Modern from 8 March-9 September. tate.org.uk
NUDE WOMAN IN ARED ARMCHAIR (FEMME NUE DANS UN FAUTEUIL ROUGE), 1932. OIL PAINT ON CANVAS 1299 X 972mm. TATE. PURCHASED 1953. © SUCCESSION PICASSO/DACS LONDON, 2017
Wearing our hearts on our heads, channelling our inner Mary Berry and drinking to our health, just a few of the things we're looking forward to in the next few months…
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IN-the know
Jooshing up our interior
three 2
Did you know that one of the next big trends is ‘Electric Jungle’? This cool number for your drinks fits the bill nicely. Vinilo Nevera Tropical fridge/freezer, tenvinilo.com
…keeping with the what’s in vogue theme, want to know the colour du jour? According to Pantone, it’s ultra violet. Inject some papal purple into your life with this. Edward Levatappi corkscrew, shop.viceversa.it
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…on our heads, with this perfect Valentine’s date night cocktail hat from
5. Getting in a spin The question isn’t do you really need a self-stirring mug, more like how dull will your life be without one? prezzybox.com
06
Channelling our inner Mary Berry
Merci Monsieur Roux for your bon cake recipes, including this one which comes with cake mix, chocolate curls, cake tins and a mini bottle of the fizzy stuff. We definitely feel a bake off coming on… bakedin.co.uk
PHOTOGRAPHY: JOHNNIE PAKINGTON
PHOTOGRAPHY: ANTHONY LYCETT
Wearing our hearts victoriagrant.co.uk
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Being in awe…
of the kick ass ladies in drinks. 2018 is the Year of the Woman doncha know, so we’ll be highlighting our favourites in every issue, starting on p. 62.
09
Drinking pretty 10 - The Cocktail Lovers
PHOTOGRAPHY: ADDIE CHINN
07
Mr Lyan always does substance with style. This gorgeous-tasting collab with Firefly, blends aronia, grapefruit, redcurrant, cascara, wormwood, angelica, kola nut and green coffee for a non-alcoholic drink with a botanical punch. Find it at harveynichols.com
…and this gent gets the royal seal of approval. Arise Desmond Payne, Master Distiller at Beefeater Gin, recently awarded an MBE for services to the drinks industry.
IN-the know
11
Parking fine 10. Respecting elders
Why choose shiny and new when you can inject some character with vintage? Start your collection with a sleek retro soda siphon from the selection at scaramangashop.co.uk
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And we mean that sincerely folks. These Vespa bar stools are just the ticket. smithersofstamford.com
Twelve Throwing in the towel Only the rubbish ones mind. This work of art is an absolute beaut.
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MAKING LIKE BOY SCOUTS and always being prepared. Keep this handy whatchamacallit about you and you’ll always be able to rustle up a cocktail, pronto. Sunnylife All-in-one Cocktail Tool, yellowoctopus.com.au
…and if you don’t frame that, how about this? The job’s already done. Towel and print from yellowstoneartboutique.co.uk
15
…and you never know when you’ll need a foraging bag for infusion goodies (even if they do come from the market…) Available at thenewcraftsmen.co.uk
17 …water gets the V.I.P. treatment too. A sachet of Conscious Water flower essence won’t just perk up your water bottle, it’ll do the job on your mood as well. consciouswater.com
to 16 Drinking our health
Imagine the indulgence of lush, hot chocolate but with healthy benefits. That’s the thinking behind the nutrient rich, all natural delights at Noble Earth. Packed with all the good stuff like turmeric, beetroot and baobab, they’re just what the health guru ordered…madebynoble.earth
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IN-the know
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NINETEEN... ASKING ALEXA
Clutching at straws
Does it get more biodegradable than a straw you can eat? We don’t think so. Lolistraw, new from loliware.com
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Need instant tips for wine pairings, how to make your favourite cocktail or what glassware to use? Ask Alexa Skills and be amazed. amazon.com
TWENTY ONE
22
Chomping on chocs Mixing G with a T …as in gin with a trim. Spend £50 or more on grooming at Murdock London and you'll be treated to a fab Silent Pool Black Tea cocktail created by Stu Bale. murdocklondon.com
Luxury chocolate studded with gummy bears made from vintage Dom Perignon, we’re in! Milk chocolate Champagne Bears Bar by Sugarfina exclusively at harveynichols.com
23 TRYING NEW FLAVOURS New year, different tipple. Try Escubac. Like gin – only without the juniper – it’s made from 14 botanicals then sweetened with raisins and vanilla, and pairs perfectly with tonic. sweetdram.com
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Perfecting our lifts Here’s how. Gin Bunny sweatshirt, oflifeandlemons.co.uk
TWENTY FOUR Turning water into wine
or Martinis, with a virtual cocktail. Hook your glass up to the 3D cradle and hey presto, you get the aroma, taste and visuals of a cocktail with none of the effects. Coming soon…
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…for drinks wizardry you can try now, book up for the revolutionary Out of the Blue sensory menu at the Blue Bar at The Berkeley. See more details on p. 63.
AVAILABLE NATIONWIDE IN WAITROSE, MAJESTIC AND 31DOVER.COM
IN THE HOTSEAT
MONICA BERG Flavour has always played an important role in our guest editor Monica Berg’s life – both personally and professionally. Here she tells us why
14 - The Cocktail Lovers
PHOTOGRAPHY: BETH CROCKATT
IN-terview
IN-terview
When did you know that you wanted to work in bars and restaurants?
Fast-forward to now, how would you describe your bartending style?
Ever since I can remember. From a very early age I used to play restaurants at home. I’d prepare a menu and my dad had to choose something that I would cook – it was always the same thing mind you – a mix of flour, milk and cacao powder and a lot of imagination! At the end of the meal I’d give him a bill – I loved it. I even decorated my bedroom as a bar!
I like simplicity and try to use as few ingredients as possible. I approach my drinks purely from a flavour perspective so I’m always willing to manipulate ingredients. Which is where combining bartending and cooking comes in.
Where do you think your interest in hospitality stems from? As a family we used to go to holiday camps and I remember being really fascinated by the reps. They were the ones who made sure everyone was taken care of and entertained – they really inspired me and I wanted to be just like them. That explains the hospitality side of things, what about your fascination with flavour? I grew up in Norway and my life was very much centred around food. My great grandparents were farmers and grew crops, my uncle was a butcher, both stepsisters live on farms and my stepfather always made sourdough bread as well as wines and beers. I’ve been keeping sourdough alive since I was eight or nine; I made fruit beer at the same age. I had to fish for herring and mackerel, went mushrooming – being from Scandinavia it was just natural. It was normal for me to open the pantry and see an elk hanging up, or go out picking berries. Nowadays people call it foraging, in Norway, it’s just a way of life. Can you recall your first long-lasting memory of flavour? It has to be strawberries… my grandfather used to pick them in the middle of Norway during the summer when they were at their best. He would bring them home, sprinkle sugar on them to draw out the moisture, then they'd be packed in a box and put in the freezer. We were only allowed to eat them on Sundays for breakfast which made them extra special. I still remember their taste now. Anything else? Yes. My grandmother was very particular about what she ate; she would have one piece of bread and cut it into four pieces so she could have four toppings. Even as a young child I thought that made so much sense – what a creative way to make the most of flavour!
How so? Take cauliflower as an ingredient, for instance. From a bartending perspective it’s not particularly exciting – it has a very distinct taste and not many people like it raw or juiced. But if you think like a chef and manipulate it, there are so many interesting things you can do with it. You just need to approach it differently: what if I fry it? It becomes crispy and can be used as a garnish. What if I ferment it? There's so much that can be done with it.
I approach my drinks purely from a flavour perspective so I’m always willing to manipulate ingredients Other than manipulating flavours, what other things can bartenders learn from chefs? The biggest lesson that bartenders can learn from chefs is to be more structured. Chefs record everything – which is a good thing. There’s no point in experimenting if you don’t document what you’re doing. Also they have such dedication – chefs do most of their work without anyone seeing what they do, but they still do it. If you’re in the business just for the accolades and to be seen, then you probably should be doing something else. And what can chefs learn from bartenders? Some chefs can definitely learn how to deal with people. It’s a skill to be front of house. There are things that we don’t know about cooking unless we go into the kitchen and try, and vice versa because chefs have never been in a bar environment. They don’t understand temperature that well or dilution. I’ve had so many tasting menus and drinks from chefs where they’ve said that they’re going to serve the drink directly from the fridge with no dilution. In the world of cooking you’re always trying to reduce, reduce, reduce to intensify the flavours but for bartenders, we need dilution.
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