ISSUE 16
SUMMER 2015
The Light Issue
Rays in the bar Illuminated thinking For inspired drinking
Putting on the Spritz
World Class cocktails in Sydney
+ Bright sparks & lightbulb moments
ISSN 2052 0603
IN-tro
DID YOU K NOW
THAT 2015 IS THE INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF
LIGHT? Nope, neither did we until we started working on this issue. But isn't it apt that at the same time that scientists are looking at advances in fibre optics, energy technology and all kinds of astronomy shenanigans, the world of drinks is lightening up as well? Think about it. Bars are creeping away from the dark, sombre set-ups and going for lighter, brighter environments, low and non-alcoholic drinks are making more of an impact on menus and the general mood in drinking establishments is becoming lighter as a result – in London, we even have Redemption, an alcohol-free bar. Coincidence? We think not. In this issue we chat to Charlie Ainsbury and Luke Ashton about 'This Must Be The Place', their refreshingly light-filled bar in Sydney (p. 10), ask five movers and shakers to share a lightbulb moment in their careers with us (p. 12), and talk to the Portman Group about the drinks industry pledge to remove one billion units of alcohol in the UK by the end of the year (p. 24). Then we have François Monti who looks at the surge in popularity of vermouth around the globe (p. 26), while Ben Norum zones in on bars keeping things on the light side in London (p. 18). Marian Beke explains how getting creative with lighter abv drinks is the way for bartenders to go (p. 40) and pilates expert Marcia Polas shares tips on how to combat the heaviness associated with standing on your feet all day and night (p. 48). Have you seen the light yet? Maybe it's time to make the switch.
Happy (lighter) imbibing! Ms S & Mr G
thecocktaillovers.com
The Cocktail Lovers - 3
Discover the finest contemporary silver and jewellery from over 300 designer-makers. www.thegoldsmithsdirectory.co.uk
Cocktail set: Martyn Pugh
IN-gredients
6. IN-the know
42. IN-focus
25 reasons to be a cocktail lover this season Multi-tasking on the taste front and pimping our drinks, just two of the things we're looking forward to in the next few months
Telling Tales What makes Tales of the Cocktail the must-visit event on the drinks calendar? We ask the people who go there
10. IN-the hotseat Charlie Ainsbury and Luke Ashton Putting on the Spritz at 'This Must Be The Place' in sunny Sydney
12. IN-spire Seeing the light Five inspiring minds on one defining moment in their careers
18. IN-spire Sipping the light fantastic Ben Norum checks out the London bars that have come out of the dark and celebrate the brighter side of drinking instead
46. IN-focus Simple or elaborate? Drinks menus are getting more fanciful – good or bad thing? Discuss
49. IN-focus Drink, Eat, Live Movement consultant Marcia Polas gives her top tips to Claire Warner and Georgia Van Tiel on how to feel lighter on your feet, behind and in front of the bar
50. IN-dependent spirits Cyprus calling! Yes, really. Adjust your DrinksNav to Nicosia and discover the delights of Lost + Found Drinkery
22. IN-the spotlight
10. IN-dustry greats
Future proofing Whether you like it or not, the volume of alcohol in your glass is getting lighter. We speak to the Portman Group about the Unit Reduction Pledge
Time for T He may have recently retired from his job as Master Distiller at Tanqueray but Tom Nichol shows no signs of slowing down
26. IN-the spotlight
55. IN-formed
Nothing but vermouth François Monti charts the rise in popularity of the aperitif once favoured by grandmas, now the hipsters' sip
Mains & Martinis London, Athens, Barcelona – three cities, three restaurants where the cocktails are as good as the food
28. IN-the spotlight
56. IN-formed
Shine a light gaz regan looks at the fundamental ingredients in what makes a good bartender tick
Word Up News, views, reviews and interviews from the cocktail front
32. IN-dulge Gadgets & gizmos 10 pieces of kit designed to take the hard work out of preparing and serving your drinks
34. IN-style
60. IN-sider's guide Dial M for Manchester Checking out the latest places to enjoy a quality cocktail with the queen of the Manchester bar scene, Susie Wong
62. IN-ternational
Summer in the city Take advantage of the last of those summer rays and enjoy your cocktails al fresco
Cocktails in Catalunya Yes, it does sherry, vermouth and Tinto de Verano but Barcelona is renowned for its cocktail bars as well. We highlight a few of the best
40. IN-focus
66. IN-vite only
How low can you go? Marian Beke extols the virtues of getting creative with low- and nonalcoholic cocktails
Snap shot The hottest drinks events, competitions and party pics from the last three months
Editors: Sandrae Lawrence, Gary Sharpen Sub-editors: Sally Briggs, Rachael Bull Creative Director: James Cheverton at Burnt Studio burntstudio.com Illustrations: Melanie Milne mellmadedesign.com Pez and Pencil pezandpencil.com Photography: Johnnie Pakington johnniepakington.com Contributors: Jad Ballout Rebecca Milford Ben Norum Marcia Polas gaz regan Lauryn Tomlinson Georgia Van Tiel Claire Smith-Warner Susie Wong
For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact: mail@thecocktaillovers.com 020 7242 2546 thecocktaillovers.com Printed by Polestar UK Print Ltd. Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited. Cover illustration: Rays in the bar ©Pez and Pencil/ The Cocktail Lovers Issue No. 16 Summer 2015 The Cocktail Lovers magazine is published by The Cocktail Lovers Ltd. in London, UK
PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY
The Cocktail Lovers - 5
25
REASONS TO BE A COCKTAIL LOVER THIS SEASON Sinking into a pineapple, winning at brunch and making like it's 1920s America – summer just got serious for cocktail lovers
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Surrealism has inspired two great drinks menus of late: one at Artesian in London, the other at Baba Au Rum in Athens. Which is why we’re going for The EY Exhibition: The World Goes Pop at Tate Modern as our cultural event this season – it’s only a matter of time before cocktails go pop as well. Until then we suggest getting acquainted with Lemonaid+, the sparkling ‘pop’ drink made with organically grown, Fairtrade ingredients. It's time to get fizzical! lemon-aide.de/en The EY Exhibition: The World Goes Pop at Tate Modern from 17 Sep 2015 to 24 Jan 2016 tate.org.uk
6 - The Cocktail Lovers
IN-the know
02
…Speaking of art and drinks, check out the three limited
3
edition Campari labels featuring sketches by Futurist artist Fortunato Depero. Available from waitrose.com
FIVE... Packing the perfect picnic Take one Tipplesworth Apple & Elderflower cocktail kit, add a blanket and you’ve aced a sublime picnic. Indoors or out. tipplesworth.com
PIMPING OUR DRINKS
Flying coach? Don’t let that cramp your drinking style. Elevate those complimentary minis into things of beauty with the Gin & Tonic, Old Fashioned and Moscow Mule cocktail kits from W+P Design. wandpdesign.com
04
…Or you could always upgrade. In the Virgin Atlantic Heathrow Clubhouse you can have a signature cocktail from the menu at Edition hotels mixed at your side, courtesy of the bespoke Martini trolley. #swanky. virginatlantic.com
Listening to the sipster hipsters
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Coconuts are soooo last year. According to those in the
know, birch water is the next big thing. Reputed to be good
06
Multi-tasking on the taste front Ice-cream or gin? Why torture yourself – have both. Go for an aperitif and dessert in one delicious hit with Gin & Tonic Ice Cream from Jude’s. Available from ocado.com
for everything from rehydration to liver disease, it’s set to become the drink on everyone’s lips. sibberi.com
08
BEING AIR HEADS
You don’t need to aerate your spirits but adding a little oxygen to your glass sure can help the mellowing process. Besides, why should wine have all the pomp? www.vinturi.com
WINNING AT BRUNCH
09
Another food/cocktail lovechild: burger with Bloody Mary jelly, vodka ketchup and chips sprinkled with celery – all hail the Bloody Mary burger. On the menu at K West Hotel & Spa. k-west.co.uk The Cocktail Lovers - 7
IN-the know
11
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Pairing cognac with macarons
FEELING THE KNEAD
Lushness alert: make the nuances in your Martell cognac sing by pairing with Pierre Hermé macarons. Top combos? Infiniment Vanille and Martell Chanteloup, and Caramel with Martell Creation Grand Extra. martell.com; pierreherme.com
The only thing nicer than the smell of freshly baked bread is freshly baked bread with beer added to the mix. Warning: one slice may not be enough… firebox.com
13.
12
Sinking into a pineapple
Pineapples are all about hospitality, right? Give your guests the best seat in the house with this kitsch but comfy silk cushion. silkenfavours.com
14
Nailing our ratios The Cocktail Key jiggers are the perfect guide to getting the balance of your cocktails just so. Follow their ratios for sweet, sour, strong, weak and spice to get great drinks every time. panchdrinks.com 8 - The Cocktail Lovers
HAILING THE COCKTAILCAR Weddings, garden parties, summer fetes… every outdoor event needs The Cocktail Car. Provide your own booze and they’ll bring everything else or, better still, go for the complete package. thecocktailcar.com
15
Making like it's 1920s America
Okay, drinking your hooch from these teacups would have given the game away during Prohibition but you get the idea… yvonneellen.com
SEVEN TEEN
Riding high
Load your cocktail accoutrements in the saddle pack, strap a bottle into the holder and hey presto! You’ve got yourself a portable bar. (Remember folks, do not drink and ride…) notonthehighstreet.com
16.
BEING COCKTAIL PIED PIPERS You’re sure to make friends with this sign. illuminatedcanvas.co.uk
IN-the know
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19
PERKING UP OUR PINKIES
Saying it with flowers
fingers and toes… For a mani/pedi with attitude just add a slick of Cocktail Bling (their name, not ours), one of the hot shades from essie.com
20 Kicking hangovers into shape Ensure your last cocktail of the night makes you feel better the next morning. With its hangoverbusting blend of vitamin B, magnesium, potassium and milk thistle, Ohayo is designed to ease the pain. ohayotomorrow.com
Nothing says summer in a glass quite like a floral garnish. Pretty up your drinks with edible violas, cornflowers, daisies, pansies and rose petals from shopterrain.com
JAMMING REAL GOOD
21
Cocktails on toast? We’re in! Try the fruit-packed, utterly delicious Bramble, Bellini, Negroni and Mojito jams from Manfood, you may never have other preserves ever again. harveynichols.com
23
Tuning into the spirit of London
Music-loving gin fans take note: Beefeater London Sounds brings the rich musical heritage of its birthplace to life through a limited edition bottle and a blockbuster list of tunes. beefeatergin.com/londonsounds
24
25 Learning from the pros
TWENTY TWO
Bringing elegance to the bar
Taking bubbles to the next level
Out: grubby fingers in the olive bowl. In: sexy cocktail picks and forks. Yes, you can use cheapo wooden versions but where’s the glamour in that? eu.l-objet.com
Say hello to the next generation Sodastream. Carbonate juices, spirits and/ or cocktails in a revolutionary machine created for both bartenders and consumers alike. mix-sodastream.com
Take a leaf out of Micah Melton’s book of awesomeness and create ice cubes/blocks/spheres that evolve in the glass and change the taste of your drinks as per the Chivas Masters. See thecocktaillovers.com for details. The Cocktail Lovers - 9
IN-terview
IN THE HOTSEAT
CHARLIE AINSBURY AND LUKE ASHTON
left: luke ashton; right: charlie ainsbury
LIGHT PLAYS AN IMPORTANT ROLE IN THE LOOK AND FEEL OF 'THIS MUST BE THE PLACE', CHARLIE AINSBURY AND LUKE ASHTON’S BAR IN SYDNEY. IT’S ALSO THE KEY TO THE STYLE AND ALCOHOL CONTENT OF THEIR DRINKS. WE CAUGHT UP WITH THIS WORLD CLASS ACT TO FIND OUT MORE.
Luke, describe Charlie:
When and where did you meet?
Charlie: After Luke came back from the World Class Global Finals in 2013 he approached me. We had been friends for a while and I think we were both on the same track at the same time in our careers. We both knew that we didn’t want to work for someone else and our own venue was on the cards. Perfect timing.
Charlie: There was most likely a drunken handshake over shots at the Bayswater Brasserie, but formally at a restaurant bar called Duke Bistro in Sydney 2010. You’ve both represented Australia in the World Class Global Finals, how much of an impact has the competition had on your careers? Charlie: A huge impact. I’ve been working behind the bar for nearly 12 years now and that time, of late, has been in management. My head was stuck in spreadsheets, rosters and other management duties, meaning I had no time for creativity. I left that role during the National leg of the competition and it helped me get back in touch with being a bartender. Getting that far in World Class certainly reminds me of the potential I have in this business.
10 - The Cocktail Lovers
Passionate, annoyingly insightful and dedicated. Charlie, describe Luke: Passionate, annoyingly meticulous and dedicated. When did you decide you wanted to work together and why?
Tell us a bit about the concept of the bar and how the idea first came about. Charlie: We didn't set out to open a Spritz Bar, but it was the space that dictated that concept as well as the trends and general climate of the Sydney bar scene. We wanted to do something that was completely left-field, disruptive and, most of all, high risk in terms of concept… So instead of focusing on something like whisky and classic cocktails in a dark, speakeasy-like, low-lit environment, we set out
IN-terview
to do a Spritz bar focusing on low-alcohol cocktails in a bright and airy environment with a low price point. What, if anything, are you doing differently from other bars in Sydney? Charlie: The method of production is pretty different. We’ve taken a page from Dave Arnold’s book Liquid Intelligence (literally) and applied his carbonation system. We wanted a way to get cocktails out quickly so batching was the way to go. All the prep is done back of house and before we open the bar. When it comes to service we simply carbonate the Spritzes, add the volatile ingredients like fresh juice if need be, garnish, and off they go. Light plays an important role in the look and feel of the bar as well as the drinks. Do you feel we’ll be seeing more of this coming through in other venues? Charlie: I’d like to think that we’re that influential but I doubt it. If anything I hope people try to do something different when it comes to forming a concept for their own bar and really pay attention to their guests and what they are looking for. I’m not saying we’ve nailed that aspect but we’re certainly trying. How long did it take from concept to opening the door and have you had to tweak any of your original ideas along the way? Luke: We came up with the concept when we signed the lease so there really wasn’t much to tweak. We were taught that you can’t apply a concept to any venue, it has to work with the surroundings. Charie: Yep, it was merely refining the concept. In a sense we’re still refining it; we’re always trying to perfect it. What attracted you to the site? Charlie: We were looking for nearly a year before we found this one. It’s not the most attractive spot; we’re in an area that is in need of some rejuvenation. Rent soared around three to four years ago and it’s driven a lot of tenants out of the area. Our landlord was the first to lower his price after two years of vacancy. It used to be a bar as well so it still had a liquor licence, fridges and various other bits that made it attractive to take up. What’s the most exciting thing about being an owner/ operator? Luke: Complete creative freedom. And the hardest? Charlie: Luke with complete creative freedom. Tell us about the drinks on the menu, the rationale behind them and any key themes running through your list. Luke: Our drinks are focused on being light, refreshing, produce-focused and simply delicious. Charlie: We wanted every drink on the list to be tasty in the way that you go back for the second sip almost immediately. Luke: The spirits and liqueurs are used almost as a seasoning to the cocktail as opposed to being the main ingredient. This lets the produce stand out and subsequently allows
us to lower our price. We’ve found the drinks to be more approachable and accessible to guests and they don’t feel bad or concerned about ordering another. Charlie: We wanted to remember that most guests don’t drink like bartenders, so as delicious as that Manhattan/ Negroni/Old Fashioned variation might be and appropriate for say, a pre-dinner drink, it usually hits people too hard and, most likely, they’ll revert to beer or wine after that. What drink would you recommend for a) the cocktail newbie? b) someone who wants to challenge their tastebuds? a) Any of the ones on our list. They’re approachable, bright and light. b) Coltrane: Mandarin, lemon, Prosecco, Talisker, Amontillado Sherry and mace. This drink fits the menu but it’s an odd marriage of ingredients. It has those autumnal cocktail elements, seasonal fruit and effervescence. What are you proudest of about the bar? Luke: The diversity of guests we have and how receptive and accepting they have been of this concept. Charlie: I agree. We’ve had a great response from our community and the neighbours. A lot of them have come up to us and expressed how happy they are to have us in the area. As we mentioned before, we’re in the middle of a block that used to be the place to go. Nowadays it’s quiet and mostly vacant. Hopefully we’re bringing some life back to the area. What have you found out about yourself since being owner/operators? Luke: I get grumpy when I’m tired. Charlie: You didn’t know that before? Luke: I’ve never been this tired. What are your plans for TMBTP? Charlie: At the moment we’re trying to get it to a level we’re happy with and hopefully it’ll run without either of us in there. We’re learning that you can’t run the business when you’re actually right in it. We need to take a step back and see it as an owner as opposed to a bartender. Luke: We have an upstairs as well that we need to work on. Charlie: True, at the moment it’s like that miscellaneous drawer at home. Needs a clean out. This bar is just the beginning though, we’re looking into expansion into other fields but we’ll save that story for another time. Any tips for anyone thinking about opening their own bar? Charlie: Allow the space and neighbourhood to dictate your concept. Really see if there’s a need for you to open a bar there. And when you do, try to do something different. Don’t let the trends sway your decision. Luke: Get some sleep, take a holiday and re-assess your decision. Charlie: Yeah, come to think of it… don’t do it. This Must be The Place, 239 Oxford Street, Darlinghurst NSW 2010, Australia. tmbtp.com.au
The Cocktail Lovers - 11
FIVE GREAT MINDS REVEAL ONE LIGHTBULB MOMENT IN THEIR CAREERS
IN-spire
The menu: Alex Kratena, Head Bartender, Artesian Bar, London The lightbulb moment for our menu came to us last September. Every autumn we narrow our ideas for the upcoming drinks list down to three to five of the most interesting topics and themes, then we do further research on them. When we came up with the idea of surrealism we flew to the Dalí museum in Spain. We also found out Dalí made a cookbook and used to throw elaborate dinner parties. We snapped up the famous cookbook in an auction and dived into it – the guys at Roux even cooked some of the dishes for us. We learnt that surrealists used to make cocktails, but to be honest, they were all really basic. We realised that surrealism tapped into every area and discipline including architecture, art and cuisine, but the cocktails were never really explored. That was our lightbulb moment, it just clicked and we said, “Why don't we write the missing chapter of surrealism?” Experience the #surrealism2015 menu at artesian-bar.co.uk
top: alex kratena; above: 'heaven is for sinners' on the menu at artesian