ISSN 2052 0603
Brilliant minds:
In praise of the drinks innovators
Cocktails with quirk 10 of the best kooky London bars
The science of colour and how it affects your taste
+ Unveiling the oldest gin recipe in the world
On the cover
Sharp on style, cool on cocktails
IN-tro
INNOVATION:
NOW T HERE’S A WORD WITH A
BIG IMPACT
Particularly when it comes to cocktails. The past few years have seen a wealth of talent making waves on the drinks front and this issue celebrates their creativity. London takes centre stage. Well, Blighty Central is renowned for its forward-thinking. It’s also our way of doffing our caps to London Cocktail Week which runs 6th to 12th October. So what’s inside? We kick off by asking 50 people in the drinks industry for their definition of innovation and how it applies to cocktails (p. 12); Rebecca Milford goes in search of the kookiest bars in the capital (p. 32), and Lizzy Barber celebrates the brilliance and sheer bonkersness of some of the mavericks currently rocking the drinks world (p. 30). Having innovative ideas is one thing, implementing them is something else entirely. We meet two companies helping pioneering bars and brands stand out from the crowd (p. 34), while Thomas Aske lifts the lid on the bits of kit behind some of the most original cocktails (p. 46). There’s a bit of history too, with Ben Norum and Phillip Duff both looking to the past as the source of inspiration for the drinks of the future (p. 24 and p. 26); Professor Charles Spence provides the science bit with his thoughts on how colour affects the way we think about what’s in our glasss (p. 28), and art comes courtesy of eight bright sparks in the drinks world with a background in the creative industries (p. 38). We also have interviews, recipes, travel and restaurant reviews, in fact, everything you need to make your winter just that little bit more bearable – mix yourself a cocktail and enjoy!
Happy imbibing! Ms S & Mr G www.thecocktaillovers.com
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IN-gredients
6. IN-the know 25 reasons to be a cocktail lover this season Things we’re looking forward to in the next three months
10. IN-terview In the hotseat – Zoe Burgess Head of Research & Development at the Drink Factory
12. IN-spire Innovation is… 50 inspiring minds share their thoughts on innovation
How to drink responsibly by Claire Warner-Smith and Georgia Van Tiel
46. IN-focus Putting the ‘mmm’ into molecular Thomas Aske lifts the lid on the tech speak behind modern mixology
49. IN-focus The craft of: the Cellar Master with Eric Forget from Hine
50. IN-focus Mixologists vs. bartenders Which gets your vote?
22. IN-spire
52. IN-dulge
Hannah and her (abv global) sisters Meet the ladies behind London Cocktail Week
Blow the budget Cocktail kit worth splashing out on
24. IN-spire
Mince source Like mince pies? Then you’ll love these seasonal recipes from Richard Woods.
Book of wonder & delight Recreating the recipe for the oldest gin recipe in the world, by Phillip Duff
26. IN-spire Timely but timeless Ben Norum looks to London’s past and how it’s shaped the new wave of spirits
28. IN-spire
54. IN-the mix
56. IN-dependent spirits A roaring success The rise and rise of Ryan Chetiyawardana and White Lyan
58. IN-dustry greats
Drinking in colour Professor Charles Spence on the science of colour and cocktails
Mixing it up with the Maestro Hats off to Salvatore Calabrese, almost 50 years in the business and still at the top of his game
30. IN-the spotlight
62. IN-formed
Bonkers but brilliant Lizzy Barber celebrates the most creative minds in drinks
Mains & Martinis Five restaurants where the drinks are as good as the food
32. IN-the spotlight
64. IN-formed
Cocktails with kook 10 London bars where originality is key, by Rebecca Milford
Word up… News, views, reviews and interviews from the cocktail front
34. IN-the spotlight
68. IN-sider’s guide
Creative streaks Meet two companies injecting innovation into bars and brands
Top toon Where to get quality cocktails in Newcastle, by George E. Fellows
38. IN-style
70. IN-ternational
Get the drinks in with… The arty set. Eight creative talents in the world of drinks
Pole stars Vodka shots and zakaska in Warsaw
44. IN-focus
Snap-shot The best bits from the last three months
Drink, eat, live
74. IN-vite only
Editors: Sandrae Lawrence, Gary Sharpen Sub-editor: Sally Briggs Creative Director: James Cheverton at Burnt Studio burntstudio.com Illustrations: Melanie Milne mellmadedesign.com pezandpencil.co.uk Nick Schon nickschonillustrator.com Photography: Johnnie Pakington johnniepakington. com Travis Watson traviswatson@hotmail.com Contributors: Thomas Aske; Lizzy Barber; Peter Chua; Philip Duff; George E. Fellows; Rebecca Milford; Ben Norum; Professor Charles Spence; Lauryn Tomlinson; Georgia Van Tiel; Claire Warner-Smith; Richard Wood For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact: mail@thecocktaillovers.com 020 7242 2546 www.thecocktaillovers.com Printed by Polestar UK Print Ltd. Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited. Cover shot: Johan Ekelund, occasional bartender and director of Sharp & Dapper. For details see p. 40. Issue No. 13 Autumn/Winter 2014 The Cocktail Lovers magazine is published by The Cocktail Lovers in London, UK
PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY
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25
REASONS TO BE A COCKTAIL LOVER THIS SEASON
N1 o
Having a Hendrix experience Andre 3000 as Jimi Hendrix in ‘Jimi: All Is By My Side’, now that’s something we must see. To drink? A Purple Haze cocktail of course. Mix six parts Absolut Vodka, two parts lime juice, one part Chambord Raspberry Liqueur, one part gomme syrup. Shake over ice and serve in a chilled (out) glass.
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Illustration: mark reihill markreihill.com
Intensifying the G&T experience, stirring things up then taking it sloe, just three of the things we’re looking forward to in the next few months
IN-the know
03
02
TUCKING INTO WINTER WARMING DISHES
getting our gin on
such as plain old pasta given the VIP treatment with Venison, Mushroom & Whisky sauce. Summer salads don’t come even close. davidandoliver.co.uk
There’s nothing like a London Dry Gin actually made in London. Try this new one from eastlondonliquorcompany.com
FOUR
Dressing up
‘Tis the season for getting your swank on. Ladies, 20th Century Foxy has got party frocks down pat – flattering figures in sexy 1940s through to 1960s styles, in sizes 8 to 24. 20thcenturyfoxy.com
08 Rocking out to wine
Seriously. Whether you’re into Metallica, Mozart or Madonna the sommeliers at D&D Wine have the tipple that’s in tune with your palate, they even pair it with a suggested playlist. Rock on! danddwine.com
05
TAKING IT SLOE
Woah tiger, not so fast, during winter time gin benefits from some sloe action. Make your own sloe gin by piercing the skin of 450g sloes, then adding 275g sugar and 750ml of gin to a sterilised jar. Stir and leave to do its stuff for two to three months.
Indulging 07 in creamy drinks Shhh, don’t tell anyone but come winter we have been known to partake in a cheeky creamy cocktail or two. Try a Brandy Alexander: 1 part brandy, 1 part créme de cacao, 1 part double cream. Shake over ice and pour.
06.
Or cheat… Too much like hard work? Don’t worry, we won’t judge. Get into the sloe groove courtesy of Sipsmith – its Sloe Gin is the business in a Negroni. sipsmith.com
NINE...
KEEPING IT IN THE FAMILY
Parent wears gin, mini-me is the tonic – happy families all round. Gin and Tonic organic cotton twin set, Twisted Twee. notonthehighstreet.com The Cocktail Lovers - 7
IN-the know
11 Hitting the sweet stuff
Mojito, Peach Bellini, Pina Colada – winning combos that taste just as good reworked into non-alcoholic Jelly Belly Cocktail Classics as they do in your glass. jellybelly-uk.com
10
BEING CHARMED
Drop the fat bloke in the red coat a hint and if you’ve been good, one of these charms may well end up in your stocking. linksoflondon.com
12
Making friends with Cocknies
Not the cor blimey guv’nor types, we’re already down with those, we’re focusing on the cocktail brownies from South East Cakery. Bite into cocktail-licious combos including sublime Strawberry Daiquiri. southeastcakery.com
13.
UPPING OUR VEG QUOTA
We’re aiming to get at least one of our fivea-day in a cocktail. Veg out on the Laroche Cocktail featuring heirloom tomatoes, basil, celery, apple juice and mushroom syrup, on the menu at The Balcon until the end of October. thebalconlondon.com
POPPING STYLE AT THE SAVOY
14
The new menu in the Beaufort Bar is literally a work of art. Each of the 15 delicious cocktails is depicted with a stunning pop-up illustration, followed by a knock-out drink. fairmont.com
FIFTEEN
DRINKING IN THE RAW At Tanya’s Cafe the cocktails on the menu after 4pm take in super foods and cold-pressed juices. Get fresh with drinks combining raw honey, coconut palm sugar, matcha powder and chia seeds, given bite with a healthy splash of alcohol. tanyascafe.com
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Adding salt to our cocktails
16
Just a pinch of sodium chloride makes your cocktails sing – don’t take our word for it, it’s the must-have ingredient behind some of the world’s best bars. Try it and see.
18.
adopting bartender style Bow ties aren’t just for guys, girls can rock the look too. We’re loving the natty tartans, tweeds and paisleys in the Edinburgh Bow Tie collection. Add a clean shirt and bags of attitude. edinburghbowtie.co.uk
17
Applying longlasting lipstick We’ve put them to the test and if you want one that remains on your mouth, not on the glass, we recommend L’Oreal Rouge Resist – it’s a stayer. loreal.com
IN-the know
N 19
20
No freezer should be without this l’il gizmo. Freeze the cooling pouring spout, pop it into a bottle and it will be cold in a matter of minutes. handpickedcollection.com
with BTW tonic syrup. Handmade in Bermondsey each week to a traditional Victorian recipe, it’s the secret weapon to a cracking cocktail. btw-drinks.com
o CHILLING
Intensifying the G&T experience
STIRRING 22 THINGS UP Want to save your wrist action for more important things? Then this little gizmo will help you out. Add your ingredients to the Cocktail Spinner, press the lever and simply watch it do its stuff. root7.com
TWENTY ONE Bringing the sunshine in
Bog off winter, we’ve got our defence sorted. The Duppy Share rum is bursting with heat from the Caribbean – sure beats bulky woollies. theduppyshare.com
24
Honouring tradition
There’s mulled wine and there’s Cornelius Ampleforth Christmas Mulled Cup. To make the perfect winter drink take one bottle of fruity red wine, 65g of caster sugar, heat in a pan with 50ml of this spiced elixir and you’re done. masterofmalt.com
23
Going for glassware with bite
We mean it. Edible glassware is a thing. Get your teeth into the biodegr(edible) cups currently available in pink grapefruit and yuzu flavours. Forget washing up, when you’ve finished drinking, just eat! loliware.squarespace.com
KEEPING HANGOVERS 25. AT BAY Be prepared for the party season. Keep some magnesium in the kitchen, Apply Me Hangover Rescue Balm in the bathroom cabinet and a litre bottle of water by your bed – that should do the trick. applymebeauty.co.uk The Cocktail Lovers - 9
Photography: addie chinn
IN-terview
IN THE HOTSEAT
Zoe Burgess
MEET ZOE BURGESS, HEAD OF RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT AT DRINK FACTORY. SET UP IN 2005 AS A SPACE WHERE LIKEMINDED BARTENDERS COULD EXPAND THEIR KNOWLEDGE OF COCKTAIL CRAFT AND PUSH CREATIVE BOUNDARIES, IT’S GEEK CHIC IN EXQUISITE LIQUID FORM What is the Drink Factory? Drink Factory is a research hub run by Tony Conigliaro. We focus on flavour and aroma in a liquid format and develop drinks for our bar 69 Colebrooke Row. We also create the drinks lists for Zetter Townhouse and Grain Store as well as work on various in-house projects such as the Drink Factory magazine. As a child, what did you want to be when you grew up? I always enjoyed making things as a child and knew that I wanted to go into the arts or a creative field.
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As an adult, how close do you feel you have come to achieving this? I feel very lucky; I’ve ended up in one of the most creative environments I can think of. Drink Factory is an ever-changing space so there’s lots of scope to get involved in different projects and flex various creative muscles. Is there an element of childlike curiosity to the work you do? I would say there is, in terms of how we peruse ideas, we never dismiss any thoughts and we’re never afraid of something failing. I find this approach, and lack of negative judgment, quite childlike. Who is the team and how do you fit into it? Tony leads the group at Drink Factory, we consist of five full-time people who manage the admin and creative side of the company. My role is Head of Research and Development.
IN-terview
What does your role as Head of Research and Development entail? I look after the research and development of new drinks and ideas, after brainstorming with Tony and the team it’s my job to start looking into the ideas in more detail and push them into finished drinks. I also look after the lab as a whole, making sure everything is running as it should and that we have the equipment required to complete our work. How did your previous experience equip you for the role? I previously worked with chocolate so had developed a palate which was focused on looking for the nuances of flavour, this really helps in my current work.
As Head of Research and Development, what’s the one tool you couldn’t work without? My notebook, I’d be lost without it! Who’s the most inspiring person you’ve ever met and why? I’ve been lucky enough to host some talks with some great scientists such as Professor Charles Spence (p. 28) and Professor Andrea Sella, which is a great opportunity to open up a dialogue into different areas of science and f lavour.
What qualities are prerequisites for the job? Attention to detail is a must, along with not being afraid to try new things. How has your job evolved in the 3.5 years you’ve been at Drink Factory My role is ever evolving. When I first started I worked on the floor at 69 Colebrooke Row, which gave me great insight into the running of the bar and what’s involved in the drinks. How have you evolved in the years since you’ve been at Drink Factory and how much of this do you attribute to the job? I would definitely say my confidence has grown a great deal. As we work with such a diverse range of ingredients at the Drink Factory I’ve been lucky enough to really build my palate and repertoire of aromas and tastes, which is invaluable. What’s the best part of your job? I don’t think I could pick out one thing! What projects are you proudest of working on and why? Working on the Drink Factory magazine has to be one of my proudest moments. For the first issue we explored the theme of gothic in great detail, allowing ourselves as much creative freedom as possible. The goal wasn’t to create drinks that would necessarily be used in a bar, though all of the drinks were made and do work. We wanted to explore the limits of what a cocktail can be and play with this boundary a little. Do you and the team purposely set out to be innovative? I think this is part of the nature of Drink Factory. We start with what we’re interested in at the time, be it an ingredient or something more abstract like a piece of music, take a narrative from this and see what can be translated into the drink.
From issue one of the drink factory magazine
What does innovation mean to you? Not being afraid to try new things. What are the most important innovations you’ve seen in drinks and the way we drink in the past five years? I think people are much more open minded and willing to try new things. I really like how drinking environments have become all encompassing and involve the full sensory experience, not just the drink itself. thedrinkfactory.com 69colebrookerow.com grainstore.com thezettertownhouse.com
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ASK 50 CREATIVE PEOPLE FOR THEIR THOUGHTS ON ONE SUBJECT AND YOU’RE ALWAYS GOING TO GET INTERESTING ANSWERS. THE QUESTION? WHAT’S YOUR DEFINITION OF INNOVATION AND HOW DOES IT APPLY TO COCKTAILS?
IN-spire
INNOVATION IS... IAN …a new or better way to prepare or present your drink, a way that inspires others to want to replicate it, or the regurgitation of forgotten styles of drink-making brought back to life for a new, discerning audience. For example, throwing or rolling your cocktails, blazing your spirits or even using abstract vessels to serve your cocktail in. Ian Burrell, Global Rum Ambassador
EGOR
ALEX
…a modernist approach to one of the elements of constructing cocktails. One of the main and last innovations in my opinion is flavoured ice and the smoking gun, both of these innovations are helping bartenders rethink classic cocktails.
…the application of better, different and more interesting solutions to drinks and everything which surrounds them.
Egor Stepanov, Time Out Bar, Moscow
Alex Kratena, Artesian Bar, London
NATHAN …something that comes from passion and desire. Passion is the influencing factor that comes from cooking, art, books, drinks or just life. Desire is the drive to constantly create new avenues to explore and constantly look at new ways to improve what we do on a daily basis. Nathan O’Neill, Dandelyan, London
SimONE …challenging people into a new experience. The consequence of a good innovation is evolution. Some traditional products are still popular after decades because they were a result of a new discovery which was successful and set a new standard. Simone Caporale, Artesian Bar, London
DEE
…something new and/or different. In the cocktail world this means finding new and exciting ways of making the most interesting, tasty, best-presented drink and standing out from the crowd. Dee Davies, Western Europe Brand Ambassador, Jinzu, Bristol
MONICA …something that either challenges what already exists, making it better, or something completely new that changes the way we look at things from that point on. I think the cocktail industry has seen a lot of innovation, in how we approach drinks-making and our understanding of why. Monica Berg, Pollen Street Social, London
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