ISSN 2052 0603
Small is Beautiful The diminutive drinks companies with big ideas
States of Independents Close up on seven of the best US craft spirits producers
Music for cocktails lovers Creating the perfect party play-list
views and + news, interviews from
the cocktail front
On the cover
Bright sparks – The Umbrella Project style it up at the Discount Suit Company
IN-tro
CRAFT THIS
CRAFT
T H AT
Those five letters put together are the sexiest thing in drinks right now. From the lone guy making gin at his kitchen table to the independent companies who have grown in size and stature, on the face of it, it would seem there’s never been a better time to be in boutique spirits. In this issue we speak to six independent producers in the UK about the pros and cons of taking on the big guys (p. 12); Yolanda Evans highlights seven of the best craft spirit companies Stateside (p. 24); Michael Vachon spreads the gospel according to boutique brands (p. 32), and Ben Norum takes a look at the craft revolution and tries to work out what it really means (p. 30). Craft and cocktail lifestyle gets a look-in too. If you’re planning a soirée at home you’ll need to curate the perfect soundtrack. Lounge-loving DJ Johnny Vercoutre gives us his top ten tracks and suggests libations to go with them (p. 27). And what about the bits and bobs that you serve your cocktails in? Lizzy Barber seeks out a handful of the growing band of craftspeople making their mark in drinks (p. 22). On the fashion front, our cover stars Andy, Ally and Stephen from The Umbrella Project go against the name of their bar, the Discount Suit Company, and show off the craft of this season’s latest styles (p. 44). There’s more too – interviews, travel, restaurant reviews and tips on a mind, body and spirit spring clean – that should keep you busy until the next issue of The Cocktail Lovers magazine in July.
Happy imbibing! Ms S & Mr G
www.thecocktaillovers.com
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IN-gredients
6. IN-the know
36. IN-focus
25 reasons to be a cocktail lover this season Fixing up, looking sharp and funking for Jamaica – just a couple of things we’re looking forward to in the next few months
The spirit of Giffard How one French pharmacist became the toast of the drinks world
10. IN-terview In the hotseat – Monica Berg The queen of Oslo’s bar scene is now shaking things up in London. We meet her at her new post, Pollen Street Social
12. IN-spire
39. IN-focus The craft of: The cooper Behind-the-scenes with Ger Buckley, Master Cooper at Jameson
40. IN-focus Flash vs. dash Pre-batched cocktails or tailor-made libations, which gets your vote?
Small is beautiful Independent distillers making waves in British drinks
42. IN-dulge
18. IN-spire
44. IN-style
A few of my favourite things Inside the mind of Colin Field, awardwinning bartender at the Hemingway Bar at The Ritz, Paris
Get the drinks in at… Discount Suit Company. And there’s no cheap schmutter in sight
22. IN-spire Maker’s marques Lizzie Barber tracks down cleverly crafted barware worth getting excited about
24. IN-the spotlight States of independents From Philadelphia to Portland, New Orleans to New York, Yolanda Evans looks at the rise of craft distilleries Stateside
27. IN-the spotlight Music for cocktail lovers Johnny Vercoutre chooses his ten top tracks for stylish soirées
30. IN-the spotlight The art of craft What is our obsession with craft spirits and what does the term actually mean? Ben Norum tries to find out
32. IN-the spotlight The man with the suitcase One man’s mission to bring the best independent drinks brands to an audience thirsty for quality
34. IN-focus Take a break Spring cleaning for mind, body and soul (no booze allowed)
Tray bon! Cool chargers for classy cocktails
50. IN-dustry greats Want to know about whisky? Whisky expert Dave Broom talks about his latest book
52. IN-dependent spirits The distiller’s cut Jamie Baxter is the go-to guy for anyone looking to distill their own spirits – whether at home or in the bar
54. IN-formed Mains & martinis Five London restaurants where the cocktails are as good as the food
56. IN-formed Word up… News, views and reviews from the cocktail front
60. IN-sider’s guide Up all night in Liverpool Forget namby-pamby closing hours, Joe Wild tells us how to party, Scouse-style
62. IN-ternational Cold comforts Vodka, beer and cocktails in Reykajavik
65. IN-vite only Snap-shot! Couldn’t make it to our 10th issue bash? The pictures are here…
Editors Sandrae Lawrence, Gary Sharpen Sub-editor Sally Briggs Creative Director James Cheverton at Burnt Studio burntstudio.com Illustrations Melanie Milne mellmadedesign.com; Becky Roberts doodleyboo.com Nick Schon nickschonillustrator.com; pezandpencil.co.uk Photography Johnnie Pakington johnniepakington.com; Ed Dabney; Gen Latour. Contributors Lizzy Barber, Yolanda Evans, Shane Mulvany, Ben Norum, Michael Vachon, Johnnie Vercoutre, Joe Wild, Stephen Williams. For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact: mail@thecocktaillovers.com 020 7242 2546 www.thecocktaillovers.com Printed by Polestar UK Print Ltd. Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited. Cover shot: Stephen wears bright pink linen shirt, £165, Budd Shirtmakers; ‘Wright’ bow-tie, £42, Monsieur London. Andy wears ‘Commo’ floral shirt, £125, New & Lingwood. Ally wears canary yellow linen shirt, £165, Budd Shirtmakers; ‘Como’ bow tie, £42, Monsieur London. Umbrellas £75 each, Beaumont & James at The Clerkenwell Collection. For all stockist details see p. 49. Cover photography: Johnnie Pakington Issue No. 11 May - July 2014 The Cocktail Lovers magazine is published by The Cocktail Lovers in London, UK PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY
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25
REASONS TO BE A COCKTAIL LOVER THIS SEASON Embracing the holiday spirit, wising up to wine and getting a chocolate fix – just three of the things we’re looking forward to in the next three months
01
21 is the magic number at Quaglino’s. To celebrate its 21st birthday Quaglino’s new Bellini Bar will be offering 21 variations of the prosecco-based cocktail – ideal for sipping as you check out ‘21’, Dean Chalkley’s exhibition featuring, you guessed it, 21 photographs of stars including Amy Winehouse and Daft Punk. Until 5 July. quaglinos.co.uk
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Amy winehouse ©deanchalkley/nme/ipc media. this image was originally shot for the nme magazine by dean chalkley
MIXING FIZZ WITH PHOTOGRAPHY
03.
IN-the know
Making 30 minutes count
No, not HIIT workouts, we’ll be using those vital 1,800 seconds to make Limoncello – organic of course – ready to drink in a few weeks’ time. #rollonsummer abelandcole.co.uk
TWO...
FOLLOWING THE FORMULA ONE ACTION
Two iconic brands, one great partnership – cheer on team Williams Martini Racing with a Martini Royale. Fill a glass with ice, add Martini Bianco and a squeeze of lime. Top with Martini Prosecco and a wedge of lime. Job done. williamsf1.com
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UPPING THE QUALITY OF OUR CONDIMENTS
No prizes for guessing what makes the Bourbon Barrel Foods range taste so goddamned good. Straight from Kentucky and onto your plate the smoked pepper, sugars and sauces add smoked bourbon-y goodness to any dish. harveynichols.com
04
Creating a cocktail ambience Pop one of these bad boys into a coloured glass bottle and bam! You’ve got yourself some serious mood lighting. huntergatherer.info
7.
Getting a chocolate fix
Excuse us, did someone say gin, whisky, rum, pear cider and cognac? In truffles? Sorry, but diets don’t stand a chance… Liquor Selection H-Box from Hotel Chocolat. hotelchocolat.com
08
PLAYING
COCKTAIL-OPOLY
5
Fixing up, looking sharp Bow-ties and braces, silk squares and shirt stays, clip-on buttons and collar stiffeners – great looks for snappy dressers in front of or behind the bar. Get yours at sharpanddapper.com
GOING FOR GOLD
Add the Midas touch to your cocktails with gold lemon sugar, sprinkles and an edible sheet – all nestled in a matchbox. Keep one on standby when you want to pimp up your drinks. inamatchbox.com
09
Think Monopoly with Spirit. Collect ice cubes, buy cocktails instead of property and avoid landing on the hangover spot. Come on, what’s not to like? homewetbar.com The Cocktail Lovers - 7
IN-the know
12
BEING DRINKIFIED
10.
Ringing the changes We’re smitten with the new ‘Cornucopia’ cocktail rings from Lilly Hastedt. Each one comes with two interchangeable gemstones, so fickle fashion folk can change the look to match their outfits. Nice! lillyhastedt.com
LOOKING TO THE FUTURE
17
Styling it out in a hat ‘Tis The Season of polo, tennis, racing and general merriment – it’s time for a titfer. Ladies, get your new hat off-the-peg or made-to-order from Deborah Dalton. deborahdaltonmillinery.co.uk
Pop fruit, syrups, alcohol and ice in the glass carafe of the Tea-Jay, add your chosen tea to the top chamber, pour in hot water and the next thing you know, you’ve got a delicious punch. Simple. blomus.com/tea-jay
14.
EMBRACING THE HOLIDAY SPIRIT
Summer’s coming – get your tan on in Sara Ulger’s exclusive designs for Malibu including dresses, swimwear and cocktail glasses, plus a hot new makeover for the bottle itself. facebook.com/malibuUK
13
Imagine a library for your spirits, one that’s synced to your iPad so when stock is running low you get an alert, refills arrive by post and you receive intuitive cocktail making tips. Welcome to Project Gutenberg, the new initiative coming from Pernod Ricard. Sexy, streamlined and smart. pernod-ricard.com
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What’s that you say? Only the coolest personalised portraits service in the whole wide world. Send Dave Stolte your reference photo and the name of your favourite cocktail and woosh! He’ll capture your spirit in no time. homebarbasics.com
Portrait of ivy mix, speedrack.com
ELEVEN
Brewing up tea cocktails
16
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BLITZING OUR CITRUS
Who wants a dull old squeezer when you can have a double-sided, brightly-coloured Citrange? Not only does it extract every ounce of juice, there’s an in-built funnel so you can squeeze the citrus directly into your glass. scandinavianshop.co.uk
EIGHTEEN
…and gentlemen,
seek out everything from formal to fun hats at bates-hats.com
MAKING LIGHT WORK OF INFUSIONS
Chilli, jelly beans, salted caramel – whatever takes your fancy the Zinger will infuse it into your chosen spirit in a jiffy. Who knows, you could be on to the next big thing… zing-anything.co.uk
IN-the know
20 PLANNING A TRIP TO ‘BEEFA’
19.
Spiking our juices
Not just for scorchio temperatures and picture postcard sunsets, we’ll be booking in for dinner, dancing and cocktails at Experimental Beach Ibiza, from the team behind Experimental Cocktail Club. eccbeach.com
no.
At Stories in East London the Spiked Juices include Bananaruma, Show Me Your Melons and Don’t Be Strawberry Fooled, all with masses of fruit and a generous glut of Santa Teresa rum. That’s your inner saint and sinner sorted. storiesonbroadway.com
Bigging up the British Aperitif
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Kamm & Sons gets our vote. Try the
WISING UP TO WINE
newly packaged, botanically charged spirit on ice, or with bitter lemon – its beauty is in its simplicity. kammandsons.com
Don’t know your Barbera from your Burgundy? That’s where London Wine Week comes in. New to the drinks calendar the seven day vin-fest is dedicated to demystifying those fusty, dusty wine lists. Sign up for your £10 wristband now. londonwineweek.com
TWENTY THREE... FUNKING FOR JAMAICA
Dub Jam (p. 54), Boom Burger (boomburger.co.uk), Jamaica Patty Company (jamaicapatty. co.uk), The Rum Kitchen (therumkitchen.com) – everyone’s getting into the Jamdown groove. Rum essential, obvs…
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25
24
Learning more about gin
Love gin? Who doesn’t, right? Leon Dalloway’s Gin Journey is just the ticket for fans of the juniper spirit, taking in a chauffeur-driven tour of bars, cocktail tastings and all the anecdotes you need to make gin your specialist subject on Mastermind. Check for dates at shakerattleandstir.co.uk
STREAMLINING OUR KIT Q: What do you get if you ask bartenders to list their most essential tools? A: The Bonzer Bar Kit, 10
products in one box – no home bar should be without it. bonzer.co.uk
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IN THE HOTSEAT
MONICA BERG
IF YOU KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT COCKTAILS IN OSLO, YOU’LL HAVE HEARD OF MONICA BERG. HAVING WORKED AS EVERYTHING FROM BAR BACK AND HEAD BARTENDER TO BAR MANAGER AND TEACHER IN NORWAY’S CAPITAL FOR THE PAST 12 YEARS SHE ALSO REPRESENTED NORWAY IN THE DIAGEO RESERVE WORLD CLASS GLOBAL BARTENDER OF THE YEAR FINALS 2013. SHE MADE THE MOVE TO LONDON LAST YEAR AND TOOK UP THE BAR MANAGER’S POSITION AT MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANT POLLEN STREET SOCIAL. WE TALK TO HER ABOUT MAKING THE SWITCH. How did you get into bartending?
What do you miss most about Oslo?
It was pretty random. I’d worked in bars and pubs to make extra money then a friend and I were travelling in Greece and came across a bar school which offered accommodation as well as training. We did the course and ended up staying in Greece for six to seven months working in bars. I loved it and carried on when I went back to Oslo. Eventually I set up a branch of the school in Oslo. It’s still going although I’m no longer running it.
I miss the bar community. My father used to say that you can do something for yourself or for the greater good, so I liked the feeling of being part of a process that was being built; I liked thinking that maybe in 20 years time people would look back and say this was when the bar scene in Oslo really took off and I was one of the people behind it.
You were very much central to the bar scene in Oslo, was it hard to leave? It was. I was part of a crowd that did a lot to push the scene in Oslo forward and I felt like I’d let them down by jumping off mid-way.
What do you enjoy most about being in London? The reason I came here was 100% personal and if it wasn’t for my relationship with Alex [Kratena from Artesian Bar at The Langham] I probably wouldn’t be here. But now that I am, I’m loving every minute and I’m really enjoying the challenge.
IN-terview
You took up the Bar Manager’s spot at Pollen Street Social four months ago, what attracted you to the post? The kitchen. I’ve worked in restaurant bars before but not at a Michelin-starred level – this place really excites me.
I’m quite annoying! I’m using a lot more cheffy ingredients and techniques in my cocktails – ingredients like dulce de leche, verjus and sumac, techniques like sous vide and fatwashing – things I would never have done before.
Tell us about your new menu at Pollen Street Social and the thought processes behind it.
You’re renowned for your culinary approach to cocktails, when did your interest start?
For the first month I didn’t implement anything, I wanted to feel how the place breathed. Slowly I began to introduce a few drinks, tweaked some of the ideas I had before starting, and now my new menu is ready and I’m really happy. I’ve kept it pretty simple, there are only 10 cocktails in total as I think it’s important to keep things as pared back as possible; I also like to keep all the recipes on one page. Funnily enough, I’ve never really liked the idea of making cocktails with Asian flavours but now that I’m working with the kitchen, I appreciate how well they balance with food.
It’s always been there. Growing up in Scandinavia everybody forages for ingredients – I remember every Sunday being woken up by my mother at 7.30am if she was in a good mood and we’d go out to pick blueberries, or gathering nets for fishing. One of my chores when I was 12 was keeping the yeast alive for making sweet wine – that was pretty normal, it’s about self-preservation. What was it like presenting your first menu to Chef Jason Atherton? Pretty nerve wracking! But that’s only because the first time you present a menu to any new boss is like handing over part of yourself – you don’t know what their flavours are and they don’t really know you. I gave him two drinks to try, the Matcha Peachu (pictured left) with Tapatio bianco tequila, peach liqueur, yellow chartreuse and matcha tea; as well as Empire of the Sun made from kaffir lime leaf and lime infused Tanqueray gin, jasmine rice and coconut water horchata, lime and a touch of chilli – luckily he liked them both. It was like, ‘phew!’ Aquavit was a huge part of your repertoire in Oslo, are you still working with it now?
Monica’s Matcha Peachu cocktail
What are you proudest of on your menu and why? Ooh, that’s a tricky one but if pushed I’d probably say the Plum Japonaise. It’s inspired by Tom Ford’s fragrance, Plum Japonais and features Ketel One Vodka, Akashi-Tai Siraume Umeshu, lemon juice, cedar wood sugar and a float of Peychaud Bitters. It starts off very intense then, as it’s served over crushed ice, it mellows like a perfume does at the end of the day. The float of Peychaud Bitters gives it a nice crisp finish. How has it been working in a Michelin-starred restaurant bar?
Photography: ed dabney
I love it! I’m learning so much – here it’s all about details of service and seeing things in the bigger picture. Generally in a bar it’s about you, the drinks, and the bar whereas here it’s about the food, the wine and the cocktails so you really have to fight your corner. I like that. I also like the fact the bar is the first and the last thing guests see when they come to the restaurant, so they will linger for an aperitif on the way in and a digestif before they leave. Do you work very closely with the kitchen? The kitchen was one of my main reasons for coming here and I go in there as often as possible – I’m sure chef thinks
I have one cocktail on the menu, Lies and Alibies which has Aquavit as one of the ingredients. The cocktail is a blend of Britain and Scandinavia: Aquavit, Pimm’s, curry and British lager – it works really well. I’m also talking to the company in Oslo about making an Aquavit exclusively for Pollen Street Social – watch this space. What are you proudest of in your career? I love it when someone says one of my cocktails was amazing or if they begin by saying they don’t like a particular spirit and after tasting one of my cocktails which has it in, I’ve won them round. Other than that, probably my seminar on Nordic Flavours at the Prague Bar Show. That was the first presentation I’d done as myself – not representing a brand – and doing something I’m really passionate about. It was my chance to show that Norway isn’t just about fish and snow! What are you working on now? I’m finishing off the new menu for Little Social, our bistrostyle restaurant across the road at number five. Who makes the cocktails at home – you or Alex? We both do! Pollen Street Social, 8-10 Pollen Street, W1S 1NG. pollenstreetsocial.com
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IN-spire
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IN-spire
VESTAL VODKA The Vestal Vodka Company is a unique series of artisan vodkas produced by father and son team John and Willy Borrell. Launched in 2011 the boutique family-owned distillery produces three vodkas – Vestal Blended Potato, Kaszebe and Podlasie, and a Kaszebe vintage as well as Amber, an Elderberry liqueur. John lives in Poland while Will is based in London working on tastings, events and his boat, the Vestal Voyages.
What was your brief to yourself when starting out? To build this company organically. Most brands in the UK come to market with huge budgets a stark contrast to Europe where wholesalers ask to sample the product first before they make any judgment. What makes your product different from the competition?
The simple answer is the love of a good Martini, but also there seemed to be a gap in the market for boutique, artisan brands offering spirits made with true provenance.
Vestal is the only unfiltered potato vodka that is singlehandedly fighting the good fight to show people that vodka is something to be savoured. We have embraced some of the techniques of whisky and cognac production and marketing, cellaring and ageing to add value to small, high-class batches of artisanal vodka. Ours are vodkas with a vintage and a very specific provenance. Ours are vodkas which improve with age and which fetch higher and higher prices as the vintage sells out. Ours are vodkas which, like an outstanding Bordeaux or single cask whisky, can never be faithfully replicated.
Did you have any previous experience in the industry?
What’s been your proudest moment to date?
I didn’t know anything or anyone in the Industry, which has proved problematic at times and helpful at others; problematic as there are certainly cliques of friends who are wary of new people coming in, positive as I have approached everything with fresh eyes and positivity. Innovation comes from outside most industries.
When our second vintage, the 2010 Vestal Kaszebe received a 5+ out of 5 from diffordsguide. This is equal to ordering a Vestal Martini at a bar knowing that I have single-handedly created the brand with no outside investment to date.
What inspired you to set up your own boutique drinks company?
Has the process of starting your own drinks brand been easier or harder than you originally anticipated?
Illustrated by pez and pencil
ever tasted. A bold claim I stand by and something I suggest people try with the 2010 Kaszebe vintage.
When I first started the sales director of a national wholesaler said, “you’d better have deep pockets or just admit you’re insane to start a vodka brand.” This is something I’ve come across time after time, and it has been a struggle convincing the industry how different our vintages are year on year and from field to field. Did you have a customer demographic in mind when creating your products? My original demographic was simple – anyone who wanted to experience the best Vodka Martini they had
What’s the best piece of advice you received during the process of setting up your business? I was reminded this year at the World Economic Forum in Davos, where Google served Vestal Vodka to all their guests all week, by Richard Branson as we shared a Vestal Martini that, “the best measure of success is how you deal with failure”. What advice would you give to anyone thinking about setting up their own boutique drinks company? Don’t be afraid to do things differently and challenge people’s thinking, politely of course, and over a vintage Vestal Vodka. vestalvodka.com
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