ISSN 2052-0603
CLEVER DICK (BRADSELL) We meet the inventor of the Espresso Martini
BARS LESS ORDINARY Cocktails with quirk
D.I.Y vs. KIT How do you shake your drinks?
PERFECT MANHATTAN Bigging-up New York’s bars
On the cover
Tristan and Thomas from Fluid Movement – Keeping check on London’s cocktails in their own inimitable style
IN-tro
T W O W O R D S:
‘LO N D O N’ A N D ‘C O C K TA I L S’
If you’d tried to put them in the same sentence 30 years ago you’d have been laughed right out of town. Dick Bradsell changed that. Thanks to his passion to the bartending craft, cocktails in the capital became clever, creative and cool. So who better to have a drink with to celebrate London Cocktail Week and to toast our London issue? Read what he has to say about inventing the Espresso Martini, his early ambitions and trying to find a decent cocktail in the 1980s (p. 40). Dick may have had a problem tracking them down three decades ago but there’s no shortage of first-class bars in the capital these days – many of which are presided over by people who have come from as far as Australia and Mumbai to work behind them. We talk to Erik Lorincz and a few of our favourite bartenders about their London calling (p. 12). As for our fashion feature, well, we wanted to capture a little of that dapper English eccentricity London is renowned for. Cue styling Tristan Stephenson and Thomas Aske in a mash-up of classic and contemporary gents collections in the Worship Street Whistling Shop, their modern interpretation of a Victorian gin palace (p. 44). Elsewhere Lucy Britner spills the beans on the World’s 50 Best Bars 2013 shortlist (p. 32); Ben Norum has fun checking out London’s quirkiest drinking spots (p. 30), and we head over to New York for some serious cocktail loving (p. 62). And as this issue kicks off the party season, starting with London Cocktail Week on 7th October, leading right through to New Year’s Eve, we talk to the Better Bootcamp crew about keeping the fun/health balance in check (p. 34). Remember folks: please drink responsibly.
Happy imbibing! Ms S & Mr G
www.thecocktaillovers.com
The Cocktail Lovers - 3
Enjoy AlizĂŠ responsibly
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IN-gredients
6. IN-the know
40. IN-focus
25 reasons to be a cocktail lover this season Doing it Frank’s way and joining the turtleneckers – things we’re looking forward to in the next few months
A beginner’s guide to whisky Matt Chambers and Karen Taylor break down the barriers of the amber spirit
10. IN-terview
D.I.Y. vs. Kit Kitchenware or swanky kit, how do you shake your cocktails at home?
In the hotseat – Desmond Payne Master Distiller at Beefeater Gin
14). Can . IN-spire
42. IN-focus
44. IN-dustry greats
London calling Erik Lorincz and co. on coming to London to be the stars of the bars
Clever Dick Dick Bradsell talks Espresso Martinis and Pink Chihauhaus with plenty of fun in between
19. IN-spire
46. IN-dulge
London in drinks Playing the numbers game
Roller coasters Top spots to park your glass
20. IN-spire
48. IN-style
A few of my favourite things Herchelle Perez Terrado, awardwinning spirits buyer at Waitrose
Get the drinks in at Worship Street Whistling Shop where Victorian London gets a progressive twist – Fluid Movement style
22. IN-spire On the home front Thinking of setting up your home bar? Yolanda Evans tells you how
24. IN-spire Class acts Where to gen up on drinks
26. IN-spire Wine merchants with spirit History, heritage and outstanding liquors at Berry Bros. & Rudd
30. IN-the spotlight Un-booze-ual: bars less ordinary Ben Norum goes in search of quirky London drinking spots
32. IN-focus Capital choices Who will be top of the World’s 50 Best Bars list? Lucy Britner whets our appetites
38. IN-focus Balancing acts How to keep the fun and health factor in check
56. IN-dependent spirits Fruits of labour Apples and pears – not rhyming slang but the basis of Charles Martell’s homegrown spirits
59. IN-formed Mains and Martinis Three restaurants where the cocktails are as good as the food
60. IN-formed Word up… News, reviews and how-tos
64. IN-sider’s guide Midland grand Rob Wood picks out the best bars in Birmingham and its surrounds
66. IN-ternational American beauties 48 hours to hit-up New York’s array of mighty fine bars
70. IN-vite only Snap-shot! The best bits of the last three months
Editors Sandrae Lawrence, Gary Sharpen Sub-editor Hermione Barnett Creative Director James Cheverton at Burnt Studio www.burntstudio.com Illustrations Melanie Milne www.melmadedesign.com; Nick Schon www.nickschonillustrator.com; Becky Roberts www.doodleyboo.co.uk. Photography Ben Millar Cole www.benmillarcole.com; Liam Kennedy www.liamkennedy.com Johnnie Pakington www. johnniepakington.com; Contributors Lucy Britner, Matt Chambers, Yolanda Evans, Ben Norum, Karen Taylor, Lauryn Tomlinson, Robert Wood. For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact: mail@thecocktaillovers.com 020-7242 2546 www.thecocktaillovers.com Printed by Polestar Wheatons. Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited. Cover shot: Thomas wears light brown check overcoat, £1,675, and light brown check suit, £1,850, both Kaushal Niraula; cream Oxford shirt, £125, Budd Shirtmakers; 100% beaver felt Melusine Top Hat, £395, shape exclusive to Bates Hats; two-tone spots bow tie, £69, Paul Smith at Fenwick. Tristan wears light grey check coat, £1,675, Kaushal Niraula; three-piece Prince of Wales check wool suit with shawl collar waistcoat, £2,795, Gieves & Hawkes; white round-collared shirt, £129, S& Gibson at Fenwick; cravat, £65, Bates Shirtmakers; 100% beaver felt Bowler hat, £265, shape exclusive to Bates Hats. Cover photography by Johnnie Pakington Issue No. 9 September - December 2013 The Cocktail Lovers Magazine is published by The Cocktail Lovers in London, UK PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY
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REASONS TO BE A COCKTAIL LOVER THIS SEASON Playing doctors and nurses, starting a Snowball revolution and luxe-ing it up at the movies, just a few of the things we’re looking forward to in the next three months.
01
Doing it Frank’s way Jack Daniel’s was Ol’ Blue Eyes’ whiskey of choice and who are we to argue? We’ll be toasting The Voice with a glass of Sinatra Select, the limitededition bottling from JD, launching in October. www.jackdaniels.com 6 - The Cocktail Lovers
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Luxe-ing it up at the movies with Film & Fizz at One Aldwych hotel. Hello, three courses in Axis restaurant, followed by chilled champers, leather seats and a blockbuster to watch, what’s not to like? www.onealdwych.com
NDRINKING 4 ART o
Starting a Snowball revolution One part naff, two parts delicious, we’re making it our mission to bring back the mighty Snowball cocktail. Shake two measures of Warninks Advocaat and a quarter measure of fresh lime juice. Pour into a highball glass filled with ice, top with lemonade and you’re good to go.
No-one does cocktails quite like the Artesian crew. Succumb to the pleasures of the glass with their beautiful and simply stunning new creations. www.artesian-bar.co.uk
5
03
Munching on medicinal marshmallows
New addiction alert: try The Cockney Quick Fix (bourbon and black treacle) and Anti-Malarial (gin and tonic). Trust us, sink your teeth into these billowy, boozy bites of brilliance and you’ll be hooked. www.therobincollective.co.uk
06
KEEPING THE FUN/HEALTH BALANCE IN CHECK
For every heavy night we’ll be ordering a One Day Post Party Pick Me Up, complete with juices, teas and supplements – just what the doctor ordered. www.raw-and-juicy.com
EIGHT
Pouring a drink, locking the door
simone rocha
07
COCKTAIL COLOUR-CODING OUR WARDROBES we’re talking Pina Colada creams, deepest, darkest espresso Martini browns, minty Mojito greens and this season’s hottest shade from the catwalks, Clover Club pink (above).
and cocooning ourselves in this deeply luxurious Pod Spitfire Chair by Andrew Martin. Hibernation has never been so chic. Available from www.occa-home.co.uk
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…and the ultimate accessory to go with it? Why, this Beefeater cushion of course. Available from www.littlemillhouse.co.uk The Cocktail Lovers - 7
10.
11. PLAYING DOCTORS AND NURSES
Saying ‘Amen’ to the Rev. J.W. Simpson its Spirited Sermons will see the Fitzrovia bar spreading the gospel according to rare, unused and forgotten ingredients and mixing them up in delicious cocktails. Preach! www.revjwsimpson.com
with the Thirst Aid Drinks Kit from Asprey. If looks are anything to go by, the prognosis is pretty good. www.asprey.com
12. Joining the turtleneckers Our all-time favourite winter wrapping has its own merry band of cocktailloving followers. Pull on your chicest polo and sip on Hendrick’s Gin libations at a Turtle Neck Club do, coming to a venue near you. For dates and details, see www.turtleneckclub.com
PAIRING COCKTAILS WITH FOOD
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at Coal Vaults, the new restaurant where every dish on the menu is listed with a cocktail to match. Who says wine is the only way to go with your meal? www.coalvaults.com
hobbs
FIFTEEN
Upping our IQ quota
SLIPPING ON OUR GLAD RAGS for Le Caprice Jazz Sessions. With speciallymade Martell cognac cocktails, great food from the Le Caprice crew and music from an exciting line-up including Theo Jackson and Yolanda Brown, it’s got ‘date night’ written all over it. www.le-caprice.co.uk/ sunday-night-jazz
hackett
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by attending Conversation Drinks at The School of Life. On the programme: Ben Haggarty on Anon and Trad; Toby Litt on Václav Havel, and Simon Garfield on Ted Hughes – that’s the thinking and drinking boxes ticked… www.theschooloflife.com
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17.
Put your order in for the You’re My Boy Blue-berry Bourbon Jam (bourbon, blueberries and vanilla), or Drunken Monkey Jam (bananas, lime and rum); better still, buy both. Your pancakes and toast will thank you for it. Available from The Jam Stand, New York. www.thej.am
Christmas is a comin’, get ready to get your bake on. Steep sultanas, raisins or currants, dried figs, candied peel, dried apricots, grated orange peel, glace cherries and brown sugar in lashings of brandy and leave it to do its magic for at least six weeks. That’s your mincemeat filling done right there.
o
SPREADING THE LOVE
8 - The Cocktail Lovers
Steeping vine fruits in booze
EIGHTEEN...
MAKING MIXOLOGY GO TO OUR HEADS Choose your base and fragrance, add any two superserum shots and shake up your own specially blended Shampyou, marketed as the first shampoo cocktail. www.concoction.co.uk
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Dimming the lights and going for a moody, wintery vibe. These candles in retro Babycham coupes will do the job just nicely thank you. Another gem from www.littlemillhouse.co.uk
Lusting after sexy glassware
We’ve seen the future of decanters and it’s Joe Cariati-shaped. Drop Santa a line and ask for a set of the ever-sosinuous, jewel-coloured glassware and who knows? If you’ve been good, he just might oblige. www.joecariati.com
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...and ladies,
splash out on the deliciously decadent Martini and Manicure treatment on the menu at SoSpa at Sofitel. www.sofitelstjames.com
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Consulting The Drunken Cookbook Milton Crawford’s cool compendium of tasty recipes to curb booze-induced munchies. www.rbooks.co.uk
Preening ourselves for the party season
Guys get your fix with The Hemingway, a delicious ‘because-I’m-worthit’ package comprising a Bloody Mary, aromatherapy facial and massage. www.gentlemenstonic.com
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No
N 19 o
Cracking open a home brew
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Not ours, but the new wheat beer made with English raspberries and gorse flowers by the hippest baker in east London, Lily Vanilli, and London Amateur Brewers. Available from The Sebright Arms. www.sebrightarms.co.uk
25. Getting infusiastic coffee beans, split vanilla pods, black peppercorns, red hot chilli peppers – just a few of the things we’ll be steeping in vodka ready for winter-warming cocktails. Kilner bottles an absolute must. www.kilnerjar.co.uk
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- IN THE HOTSEAT -
DESMOND
PAYNE M ASTER DISTILLER
IN-terview
THERE’S NOT MUCH DESMOND PAYNE DOESN’T KNOW ABOUT GIN. LITTLE WONDER REALLY, HE’S BEEN WORKING IN THE INDUSTRY SINCE 1967. AFTER 28 YEARS AT PLYMOUTH GIN, FIRST AS ASSISTANT DISTILLERY MANAGER THEN MOVING ON TO DISTILLERY MANAGER, HE TOOK OVER THE TOP JOB AT BEEFEATER GIN AS MASTER DISTILLER IN 1995. BESIDES TAKING CARE OF JAMES BURROUGH’S ORIGINAL RECIPE, DESMOND HAS CREATED FOUR BEEFEATER EXPRESSIONS OF HIS OWN, INCLUDING THE AWARD-WINNING BEEFEATER 24 AND THE RECENTLY LAUNCHED BURROUGH’S RESERVE. How and when did gin lure you in? Way back in 1967, when I realised that the wine and spirits company where I was working had a gin distillery. Do you remember the first time you tasted the juniper spirit? If so, when was it, what was it and what were your initial impressions? My first gin and tonic was at the Holbrook Hall hotel in Scarborough. The hotel has since spectacularly slid off the cliff top into the North Sea, but I have somehow managed to keep going. I remember the drink as being the height of sophistication. It still is. Describe what being a Master Distiller entails. Everything from choosing botanicals, developing new products and ensuring consistent quality of the gin, through to tasting cocktails. It’s a dream job. How does one become a Master Distiller? There are not many opportunities to become a Master Distiller in the gin business. You may have to wait a while… However, my old boss at Plymouth Gin used to remind me that graveyards are full of indispensable people! What’s the single most important factor of being a Master Distiller? You need to develop a good sense of taste and understand how flavours work. What is the greatest lesson you’ve learnt on the job?
You’ve got 24 hours to show a martian how to drink, understand and appreciate gin, where would you take it and why? I would take it to the tasting room at the Beefeater distillery and let our brand ambassadors, Tim Stones and Seb Hamilton-Mudge, demonstrate one or two cocktails. That would leave 22 hours free for the return journey to Mars. Job done. It took 40 years before you showed Desmond Payne off in liquid form with Beefeater 24. Why so long and was it an exciting or nerve-wracking experience? The craze for new gins was just beginning in 2007 when I started work on Beefeater 24. We had recently been acquired by Pernod Ricard and there was a fresh approach to innovation. It was both exciting and nerve-wracking but it gave me the confidence to go on and develop other new gins for Beefeater. What were the high and low points of creating your first Beefeater gin from scratch? The low point was about an hour before I presented my new gin to an independent tasting panel made up of the great and good of the gin trade. I couldn’t taste anything from the samples! Fortunately, the high point came an hour later when it received top marks from the panel. Another high was taking the International Wine & Spirit Competition gold medal for Beefeater 24 in its first year.
Don’t rush it. If you were starting out all over again, is there anything about the industry that you’d change? This is a fascinating and absorbing industry. I would probably like to have prevented the minimum strength of gin descending to 37.5% though. Why do you think gin has gone from being Mother’s Ruin to the tipple of choice in the trendiest bars?
You need to develop a good sense of taste and understand how flavours work
It’s all about the quality.
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