ISSN 2052-0603
BAR GAZERS What’s coming up on the cocktail front as predicted by industry experts
FOR OLD TIME’S SAKE Why vintage spirits are showing the young guns who’s boss
SOUND JUDGMENT The science of matching music to the flavours of drinks
PLUS 25 reasons to be a cocktail lover this season
ON THE COVER: Style and substance at Opium Cocktail & Dim Sum Parlour
KETEL ONE is a trademark of Double Eagle Brands N.V. © 2011 PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY www.DRINKiQ.com
IN-tro
2012 IS SOOO LAST
Y E A R
which is why, for this issue we’re bigging up all things new. We talk to Alexa Perrin from the Experimental Food Society about who she thinks is pushing the boundaries on the drinks front (p. 10); we’ve asked key bartenders around the world to share their trends for the year (p. 12), and Professor Charles Spence gets all futuristic on us with his thoughts on how sound can change our perception of the taste of a cocktail – riveting stuff (p. 18). Innovation is also the the name of the game for Anonymous Artists. We chat to the dynamic integrated communications company about how they take drinks companies out of the dark ages and into a contemporary arena (p. 21). Meanwhile, Ivy Mix and Lynnette Morrero are going for a UK first with their female-only bartending competition, Speedrack (p. 30). Style-wise it’s all about our latest crush on recently-opened Opium Cocktail & Dim Sum Parlour. Not only is Dre Masso’s place fresh, funky and downright fabulous in every single way, it’s also the perfect place to see in the Chinese New Year (p. 30). And how does our feature on vintage spirits fit into all this? Aha! Despite their advanced age these sublime liquids are now finding a youthful flush as must-have additions to the coolest drinks lists (p. 16). Add that little lot to a close-up on the bar scene in Reading (p. 42), fab vessels for whisky drinkers (p. 24), and an interview with the wonderful folk at Sacred gin (p. 33) and we think we’ve got the beginning of 2013 pretty much licked. As for the rest of the year: look out for our next print issue coming to a venue near you in April. Drop us a line for more details at mail@thecocktaillovers.com.
Happy imbibing! Ms S & Mr G www.thecocktaillovers.com
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Mixology by Perrier
As one of the first bottled waters, Perrier, characterised by its exceptional effervescence, has led where others follow. Perrier has a flavour which works fantastically well with other cocktail ingredients and its large bubbles are unlike any other sparkling water. 100% natural and without the bitter aftertaste of some mixers. ‘The champagne of waters’, Perrier’s style and distinctive bottle shape make it as iconic now as it was when it launched in 1906.
For London culture and lifestyle go to http://societeperrier.com/london/ & follow us on Facebook
IN-gredients
6. IN-the know
26. IN-style
25 reasons to be a cocktail lover this season
Get the drinks in at…
Getting Ziggy with it, adding wine to our grooming ritual and signing up for spiritual enlightenment – just a few of the things we’re looking forward to in the next three months
10. IN-terview In the hotseat – Alexa Perrin The force behind the Experimental Food Society talks revolutionary bars, bartenders who are pushing the boundaries and bitters infused with moisture
12. IN-spire Bar gazers Jacob Briars and co. turn Mystic Meg and predict the drinks trends for 2013
16. IN-the spotlight New tastes for old spirits Gins from the 1950s to rare cognacs from the 19th century – vintage spirits are creating a stir
18. IN-focus Sound advice Professor Charles Spence of Crossmodal Research Laboratory at Oxford University lifts the lid on how sound can affect the taste of cocktails
21. IN-focus Bright sparks Fresh thinking in drinks promotion from the innovative Anonymous Artists
22. IN-focus Going out vs. staying in It’s winter and it’s cold, dark and miserable. Will you be staying in or going out for your cocktails? We put forward our case for both
24. IN-dulge Whisky-a-go-go Eight terrific tumblers for sipping your drams in style
Dre Masso’s Opium Cocktail & Dim Sum Parlour. Three floors, four moods, five people – one helluva killer venue
30. IN-dustry greats The need for speed Ivy Mix and Lynnette Morrero bring talented female bartenders to the fore in the first Speed Rack UK
33. IN-dependent spirits Home is where the art is We’re talking artisan gin, dreamed up and distilled in Ian Hart and Hilary Whitney’s family home in Highgate, London
37. IN-formed Mains and martinis Three restaurants where the cocktails are as good as the food
38. IN-formed Word up… The Cocktail Girl gives Barrio East her nod of approval, how to choose Champagne, last orders from comedian David Mills, Bryan Ferry gets the jazz treatment and drinks recipes to see you through until March
42. IN-sider’s guide Reading, steady – go! Ash Bovey puts Reading firmly on the map
44. IN-ternational Hot stuff Trinidad plays host to the Angostura Aromatic Bitters Global Cocktail Challenge, we check out the competition ahead of the February finals
46. IN-vite only Snapshot Pictures from our favourite parties, competition and events from the past three months
CLICK THE LINKS THROUGHOUT THE MAGAZINE FOR DETAILS ON THE PEOPLE, PRODUCTS AND PLACES.
Editors Sandrae Lawrence, Gary Sharpen Sub-editor Susannah O’Grady Creative director James Cheverton at Burnt Studio www.burntstudio.com Illustrations Melanie Milne www.seriousaboutdesign.me.uk Nick Shon www.nickschonillustrator.com Photography Johnnie Pakington www.johnniepakington.com Contributors Ash Bovey, Professor Charles Spence, Lauryn Tomlinson For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact: mail@thecocktaillovers.com 020 7242 2546 07801 932 941/07816 202 547 www.thecocktaillovers.com Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited. On the cover: Clockwise: Maria Carol wears pink dress with lace bodice, £85; gold python small box clutch bag, £519, Alexandra DeClaris. Megs wears blue fitted dress, £85. Esther wears floral belted dress, £85; Dre wears navy suit, £95; white shirt, model’s own; tie, £12; hat, stylist’s own. Jay wears brown suit, £95; white shirt, price on request, Ports 1961, Harrods; tie £12. All clothes unless otherwise stated from Mint Vintage Clothing, 71-73 Stoke Newington High Street, N16 8EL. T: 020 7249 4567. www.mintvintage.co.uk Cover photography by Johnnie Pakington Issue No. 6 January-March 2013
PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY
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25
REASONS TO BE A COCKTAIL LOVER THIS SEASON
one
Getting Ziggy with it
©Duffy archive. special terms: david bowie is
in honour of David Bowie is, the new exhibition opening at the Victoria & Albert Museum from 23 March. Try the Ziggy Stardust: 4 parts vodka, 1 part violette liqueur, a dash of orange bitters, 1/2 part Goldschläger and ground cinnamon. Stir the first two ingredients with bitters over ice. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Light a small glass of Goldschläger and pour over the drink. Dust the flame with cinnamon and serve. www.vam.ac.uk
6 - The Cocktail Lovers
02.
IN-the know
STOCKING UP ON OUR NEW SEASON’S COCKTAIL DRINKING OUTFITS
N3 o
That’s three to four consecutive days without alcohol – more realistic than an out-and-out detox but just as beneficial.
FOUR
(on a budget) at London Fashion Weekend at Somerset House, 21-24 February, and while we’re there, checking out Valentino: Master of Couture exhibition to see how it’s done when money’s no object. www.londonfashionweekend.co.uk www.somersethouse.org.uk
05
ADHERING TO THE 3:4 RATIO
Signing up to www. vintageseekers.com
PRACTISING OUR FRENCH
for its Shop by Celebration service. Give them the nod and they’ll source spirits, bar accessories and gorgeous nick-nacks for milestone birthdays and anniversaries from your specified year.
so we can get our orders in at Tony C’s Bar Le Coq in Paris. Warning Eurostar: you’ll be seeing a lot of us in 2013… www.barlecoq.com
06
Falling for custom liqueurs
like those made by Ruth Ball at Alchemist Dreams. Have a go creating your own concoctions online or try one of the excellent house blends including Blackberry Magic and Everything’s Rosy. www.alchemistdreams.co.uk
07
BECOMING FULLY FLEDGED MEMBERS OF THE JOHNNIE WALKER BLUE LABEL APPRECIATION SOCIETY. Oh come on, not only is it a mighty fine tasting whisky, they’ve only gone and signed up David Gandy as Global Ambassador… www.johnniewalker.com
08. COMBINING TWO OF
OUR FAVOURITE THINGS:
chocolates and cocktails. Anthon Berg’s Cocktail Creams include a B52, Cosmopolitan, Margarita and Strawberry Daiquiri enrobed in decadent chocolate. Who said diet? www.kingdomofsweets.com
09
DEVELOPING A CRUSH ON STRAWBERRIES especially for Valentine’s Day. We’ll be giving our loved ones Bloom gin and tonic strawberry cupcakes, available from www.primrosebakery.org.uk from 1st to 28th February.
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10.
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Showing off our crafty side
Warming up with fur throws and open fires
How so? By making Lego robots, knitting Mr T cosies and creating papier-mâché monster mashes, all with cocktails in hand at the wonderful Drink Shop Do in King’s Cross, that’s how. www.drinkshopdo.com
The former from the luxe collection at www.mydeco.com the latter in London’s most historic and atmospheric bar, the upstairs room at Rules. www.rules.co.uk
THIRTEEN
Building our fragrance wardrobes
With everything from Gin & Tonic, Egg Nog and Mint Julep sprays in its extensive portfolio, Demeter Fragrances should be on every cocktail lover’s must-have list. Get your collection started with the Virtual Cocktail Party set. www.demeterfragrance.com
15
VAMPING THINGS UP WITH COOL COCKTAILS AND CLASSY CABARET at The Crazy Coqs, www.brasseriezedel.com, Hippodrome Casino, www.hippodromecasino.com, House of Wolf, www.houseofwolf.com and the Beaufort Bar at The Savoy hotel www.fairmont.com
17 Taking time for tea
16
or more specifically, High Tease at the Grosvenor Hotel. Forget la-di-da, stiff upper lip affairs and welcome cocktails, champers, cake and sarnies served with saucy burlesque on the side. Now that’s more like it… www.guoman.com/tease 8 - The Cocktail Lovers
12. LAUGHING IN THE FACE OF HANGOVERS and taking precautionary measures with Noho – the wee bottle that packs a mighty punch against a throbbing morning-after-the-night-before head. Drink one before and after a heavy sesh and according to the label, you’ll be sorted. Bwah, ha, ha! www.nohodrink.co.uk
14. MAKING LIGHT WORK OF SPRITZING LEMONS AND LIMES by inserting this bad boy into the centre of the fruit for a citrus mist at the touch of a button. Fabulous! www.jwpltd.co.uk
Going back to nature
and seeking out foraged cocktails. Check out the beauties on the menu at Stovell’s in Surrey, www.stovells.com and Inn The Park in St. James’s Park, London www.peytonandbyrne.co.uk
BARREL-AGEING OUR OWN COCKTAILS
Who cares if bartenders have been doing it for ages, it’s our turn to have some fun. We’ve got our order in for the Mature Your Own kit available from the ever-inventive Master of Malt. www.masterofmalt.com
19. Keeping tabs on important dates
We’ll be making our mark on the beautiful Snow Queen vodka calendar photographed by Ellen von Unwerth. Available from www.snowqueenvodka.com
21
TWENTY
BOWING AT THE ALTER OF THE NEW WAVE BLOODY MARY
Find delicious, inventive twists on the vitamin C-enriched classic making waves at 69 Colebrooke Row www.69colebrookerow.com Bart’s www.barts-london.com and The Parlour www.theparlourbar.co.uk
ADDING WINE TO OUR GROOMING RITUAL no, not in our glasses but with the Vinothérapie Spa range from Caudelie. Apply the detoxifying Crushed Cabernet Scrub and Body Oil to your dry parts and say bye, bye drab winter skin, hello buff bodies. www.uk.caudelie.com
TWENTY THREE GIVING OUR BARWARE THE RESPECT IT DESERVES and only drying our kit with this cool-as-you-like tea towel by Stuart Gardiner. Available from www.rockettstgeorge.co.uk
22 HAVING GOGO COCKTAILS ON SPEED DIAL For an array of tasty libations such as Spiced Apple Daiquiris and Gimlets delivered to our door. www.gogococktails.com
24. TUNING INTO FREQUENCY AT RADIO for posh cocktails, stylish nibbles and live DJs on the rooftop of ME London, on the last Thursday of each month. www.melondonuk.com
25. SIGNING UP FOR SPIRITUAL ENLIGHTENMENT With the excellent courses on offer at the Wine Spirit Education Trust. Take your pick from the one-day Level 1 Award in Spirits, three day Level 2 Award in Spirits, or evening classes – perfect for wannabe drinks geeks. www.wset.com
The Cocktail Lovers - 9
Alexa Perrin
IN-terview
IN THE HOTSEAT Alexa Perrin set up the Experimental Food Society in 2009 to champion the food and drinks arts in the UK. A former PR Account Director on Hendrick’s gin, she launched Bulldog gin in the UK under her own company and has since worked with brands such as Willie’s World Class Cacao, Borough Market and House of Wolf. Here she talks about the who, what and why of experimental drinks What is the Experimental Food Society? The Experimental Food Society takes the form of an online directory with a series of Experimental Food Society Talks, an annual large scale culinary arts exhibition and finale banquet at which all members come together with a unique installation that demonstrates their skills. Members are diverse in talents and include Food Landscape Artist Carl Warner who creates incredible landscapes out of food and photographs them; Jellymongers, and foodsmiths Bompas & Parr who are known for crazy antics such as flooding a Grade I-listed building with four tonnes of punch! What are your predictions for the future of drinking and in particular, cocktails? I think we are going to continue to see a rise in artisan spirits, the use of premium and rare teas in cocktails and molecular mixology. I also think that rather than focusing on the ‘serious art of mixology’ we are going to see a far more fun and theatrical side to cocktail making. How has the way we eat and drink changed since you started the Society? I think people have developed much higher levels of expectation from their eating and drinking experiences. What were once techniques and methods utilised by a limited number of high-end restaurants and bars around the world have become more mainstream as restaurants and bars across the UK adopt them to offer their customers a more multi-sensory, experiential approach. In turn, guests are expecting more. Additionally, our knowledge of food and drink and subsequent interest in it continues to grow, matched by an economic downturn that presents food and drink as an affordable luxury. In your opinion, which bartenders are pushing the boundaries in the way we drink cocktails? I don’t think I would be surprising your readers by naming Tony Conigliaro who is often referred to as the Heston Blumenthal of mixology. He has a revolutionary approach to cocktail making, developed in his laboratory that continues to set him apart. For a relative newcomer I would say Stephen Quainton, Head Mixologist at House of Wolf. His experimental creations push boundaries not only with taste but the drinking experience itself. Additionally, I would also single out Marian Beke at Nightjar for his experimental approach to flavour. He consistently nails it, presenting cocktails with new flavours that excite the taste buds.
Which bars capture the essence of the Experimental Food Society and why? House of Wolf’s Apothecary Bar, 69 Colebrooke Row and Nightjar for the reasons outlined above. Fluid Movement’s three bars, Purl, Worship Street Whistling Shop and Dach & Sons for their fun, multi-sensory and molecular approach and also The Lab Bar for its encouragement in creating some of the UK’s most creative bartenders. Which EFS members (particularly drink ones) should we be looking out for and why? 1. Jellymongers and foodsmith’s Bompas & Parr who continue to collaborate with various premium drinks companies to create some fantastical creations. 2. Experimental food artists and experiential food event creators The Robin Collective who are doing some really innovative things with drinks. They have just created a range of bitters infused with moisture taken from the rooms (library’s, studies etc.,) of British icons such as Winston Churchill and Arthur Conan Doyle to name a few. Presented in little dropper bottles each comes with a cocktail suggestion inspired by the relevant icon. 3. Food Futurologist Dr. Morgaine Gaye who has just created the Supershake which she currently sells via her website and is about to take to market. A combination of some of the highest potency minerals, vitamins and micro-nutrients* which are all bio-available (that means, really easy for the body to absorb and use), this combination of high potency ‘super-foods’ is an elixir for the body. What are your plans for 2013? The Experimental Food Society is active throughout the year with commissions and I will also be planning for the annual Experimental Food Society Spectacular. Additionally there are some exciting talks ahead about a documentary series on us – watch this space! For more details on the Experimental Food Society see www.experimentalfoodsociety.com 69 Colebrooke Row www.69colebrookerow.com Dach & Sons www.dachandsons.com House of Wolf www.houseofwolf.co.uk The Lab Bar www.labbaruk.com Nightjar www.barnightjar.com Worship Street Whistling Shop www.whistlingshop.com
The Cocktail Lovers - 11
IN-spire
BAR GAZERS WANT TO KNOW WHAT’S COMING UP ON THE DRINKS FRONT? JACOB BRIARS, GLOBAL ADVOCACY AND TRAINING AT BACARDI, LOOKS INTO HIS CUT-CRYSTAL MIXING GLASS AND OFFERS US HIS THOUGHTS…
With bartenders having finally broken through their fear of vermouth, and their guests enjoying bitters and amari, I think this is the year when they come together and finally tip into the mainstream. From big brands to boutique products, it’s an exciting time ahead. The world’s leading vermouth, Martini, turns 150, while Noilly Prat turns 200 – and both will inspire a raft of stories about vermouth in the press. 2013 will also welcome some exciting boutique brands. What’s the appeal? Few things stimulate the appetite better than a glass of vermouth, and it’s often the ‘missing ingredient’ I suggest to bartenders needing a finishing touch to their drinks as it brings both complexity and balance to cocktails, whether made with gin or rye and everything inbetween. Plus, you can get a great bottle of vermouth for under £10. I think vermouth on ice and vermouth and soda will both be much more common in 2013, as well as playing a leading role in cocktails rather than making do with a bit part.
As bartenders increasingly fall in love with higherproof spirits, I suspect our clientele will express the opposite craving – for flavoursome, refreshing drinks that can they can enjoy but still be able to sensibly face the evening’s dinner and the morning’s to-do list. The rise of drinks like the Americano and the Sbagliato, and the rebirth of the gin and tonic, shows guests are after drinks that offer the same complexity as cocktails, with less octane! Together with an increasing tendency for restaurants to pair food with cocktails, the awareness of host responsibility by venues will see a category of drinks between cocktails and mocktails, and I for one welcome that wholeheartedly.
I know many bartenders are sick of this already, and when done badly, the results can be disappointing. But it’s an easy ‘trick’ to add to a cocktail menu and the romantic appeal of ageing your own spirits is still a powerful one. Plus, a badly mixed cocktail can become a great one with a little contact with wood. You’re likely to see this method become mainstream as restaurants and even hotel chains add a barrel-aged drink or two to their cocktail menus.
The tequila of 2013 and beyond. As the neo-speakeasy trend wanes, I foresee a lot of rum drinks on the horizon. Rum has always struck me as the most mixable spirit, from lighter styles like Bacardi through to brooding monsters like El Dorado. No spirit has the range that rum does, or offers such quality at every price point. At one end it makes crisp, refreshing cocktails that are brighter than any gin drink, at the other it can be the base of brown and bitter drinks the equal of bourbon. I am also seeing the classic Daiquiri on more menus, and a renewed love affair with ‘guilty pleasure’ rum drinks like Piña Coladas and the Mai Tai. Bars like London’s Trailer Happiness and San Francisco’s Smuggler’s Cove have flown the rum flag for years. Now for 2013 I think the bartender’s secret won’t be too hidden for much longer.
A few years ago in the first flush of the cocktail revival, there were two kinds of bars: serious and silly. You couldn’t be both and most high-minded bars took the serious speakeasy path, serving spiritous drinks to guests in hushed tones. But now we are seeing the emergence of a new kind of bar, where the drinks are as serious as ever but the tone is much more lighthearted. Leading this charge has been the amazing Artesian at The Langham hotel, awarded the world’s best hotel bar yet serves drinks with a great sense of humour as well as attention to detail. Artesian, Callooh Callay, Last Word and many more are bringing an element of theatre and fun that reminds us why we got into bars in the first place. I hope many more bartenders follow their lead.
I think there will be more people working on the overall experience happening in bars rather than focusing on the drinks only. This will be expressed by drinks with less but better ingredients and better service. Guillaume Le Dorner, 69 Colebrooke Row, London