The Cocktail Lovers Magazine Issue 6 Winter 2013

ISSN 2052-0603

BAR GAZERS What’s coming up on the cocktail front as predicted by industry experts

FOR OLD TIME’S SAKE Why vintage spirits are showing the young guns who’s boss

SOUND JUDGMENT The science of matching music to the flavours of drinks

PLUS 25 reasons to be a cocktail lover this season

ON THE COVER: Style and substance at Opium Cocktail & Dim Sum Parlour

KETEL ONE is a trademark of Double Eagle Brands N.V. © 2011 PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY www.DRINKiQ.com

IN-tro

2012 IS SOOO LAST

Y E A R

which is why, for this issue we’re bigging up all things new. We talk to Alexa Perrin from the Experimental Food Society about who she thinks is pushing the boundaries on the drinks front (p. 10); we’ve asked key bartenders around the world to share their trends for the year (p. 12), and Professor Charles Spence gets all futuristic on us with his thoughts on how sound can change our perception of the taste of a cocktail – riveting stuff (p. 18).

Innovation is also the the name of the game for Anonymous Artists.

We chat to the dynamic integrated communications company about how they take drinks companies out of the dark ages and into a contemporary arena (p. 21). Meanwhile, Ivy Mix and Lynnette Morrero are going for a UK first with their female-only bartending competition, Speedrack (p. 30).

Style-wise it’s all about our latest crush on recently-opened Opium Cocktail & Dim Sum Parlour. Not only is Dre Masso’s place fresh, funky and downright fabulous in every single way, it’s also the perfect place to see in the Chinese New Year (p. 30). And how does our feature on vintage spirits fit into all this? Aha! Despite their advanced age these sublime liquids are now finding a youthful flush as must-have additions to the coolest drinks lists (p. 16).

Add that little lot to a close-up on the bar scene in Reading (p. 42), fab vessels for whisky drinkers (p. 24), and an interview with the wonderful folk at Sacred gin (p. 33) and we think we’ve got the beginning of 2013 pretty much licked.

As for the rest of the year: look out for our next print issue coming to a venue near you in April. Drop us a line for more details at mail@thecocktaillovers.com.

Happy imbibing!

Ms S & Mr G www.thecocktaillovers.com

The Cocktail Lovers - 3

Mixology

by Perrier

As one of the first bottled waters, Perrier, characterised by its exceptional effervescence, has led where others follow.

Perrier has a flavour which works fantastically well with other cocktail ingredients and its large bubbles are unlike any other sparkling water. 100% natural and without the bitter aftertaste of some mixers. ‘The champagne of waters’, Perrier’s style and distinctive bottle shape make it as iconic now as it was when it launched in 1906.

For London culture and lifestyle go to http://societeperrier.com/london/ & follow us on Facebook

IN-gredients

6. IN-the know

26. IN-style

25 reasons to be a cocktail lover this season

Get the drinks in at…

Getting Ziggy with it, adding wine to our grooming ritual and signing up for spiritual enlightenment – just a few of the things we’re looking forward to in the next three months

10. IN-terview In the hotseat – Alexa Perrin The force behind the Experimental Food Society talks revolutionary bars, bartenders who are pushing the boundaries and bitters infused with moisture

12. IN-spire Bar gazers Jacob Briars and co. turn Mystic Meg and predict the drinks trends for 2013

16. IN-the spotlight New tastes for old spirits Gins from the 1950s to rare cognacs from the 19th century – vintage spirits are creating a stir

18. IN-focus Sound advice Professor Charles Spence of Crossmodal Research Laboratory at Oxford University lifts the lid on how sound can affect the taste of cocktails

21. IN-focus Bright sparks Fresh thinking in drinks promotion from the innovative Anonymous Artists

22. IN-focus Going out vs. staying in It’s winter and it’s cold, dark and miserable. Will you be staying in or going out for your cocktails?

We put forward our case for both

24. IN-dulge Whisky-a-go-go Eight terrific tumblers for sipping your drams in style

Dre Masso’s Opium Cocktail & Dim Sum Parlour. Three floors, four moods, five people – one helluva killer venue

30. IN-dustry greats The need for speed Ivy Mix and Lynnette Morrero bring talented female bartenders to the fore in the first Speed Rack UK

33. IN-dependent spirits Home is where the art is We’re talking artisan gin, dreamed up and distilled in Ian Hart and Hilary Whitney’s family home in Highgate, London

37. IN-formed Mains and martinis Three restaurants where the cocktails are as good as the food

38. IN-formed Word up…

The Cocktail Girl gives Barrio East her nod of approval, how to choose Champagne, last orders from comedian David Mills, Bryan Ferry gets the jazz treatment and drinks recipes to see you through until March

42. IN-sider’s guide Reading, steady – go!

Ash Bovey puts Reading firmly on the map

44. IN-ternational Hot stuff Trinidad plays host to the Angostura Aromatic Bitters Global Cocktail Challenge, we check out the competition ahead of the February finals

46. IN-vite only Snapshot Pictures from our favourite parties, competition and events from the past three months

CLICK THE LINKS THROUGHOUT THE MAGAZINE FOR DETAILS ON THE PEOPLE, PRODUCTS AND PLACES.

Editors Sandrae Lawrence, Gary Sharpen Sub-editor Susannah O’Grady Creative director James Cheverton at Burnt Studio www.burntstudio.com Illustrations Melanie Milne www.seriousaboutdesign.me.uk Nick Shon www.nickschonillustrator.com Photography Johnnie Pakington www.johnniepakington.com Contributors Ash Bovey, Professor Charles Spence, Lauryn Tomlinson For all editorial and advertising enquiries, please contact: mail@thecocktaillovers.com 020 7242 2546 07801 932 941/07816 202 547 www.thecocktaillovers.com Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of The Cocktail Lovers magazine without prior permission from the editors is strictly prohibited.

On the cover: Clockwise: Maria Carol wears pink dress with lace bodice, £85; gold python small box clutch bag, £519, Alexandra DeClaris.

Megs wears blue fitted dress, £85.

Esther wears floral belted dress, £85; Dre wears navy suit, £95; white shirt, model’s own; tie, £12; hat, stylist’s own. Jay wears brown suit, £95; white shirt, price on request, Ports 1961, Harrods; tie £12.

All clothes unless otherwise stated from Mint Vintage Clothing, 71-73 Stoke Newington High Street, N16 8EL. T: 020 7249 4567. www.mintvintage.co.uk Cover photography by Johnnie Pakington Issue No. 6 January-March 2013

PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY

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The Cocktail Lovers - 5

25

REASONS TO BE A COCKTAIL LOVER THIS SEASON

one

Getting Ziggy with it

©Duffy archive. special terms: david bowie is

in honour of David Bowie is, the new exhibition opening at the Victoria & Albert Museum from 23 March. Try the Ziggy Stardust: 4 parts vodka, 1 part violette liqueur, a dash of orange bitters, 1/2 part Goldschläger and ground cinnamon. Stir the first two ingredients with bitters over ice. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Light a small glass of Goldschläger and pour over the drink. Dust the flame with cinnamon and serve. www.vam.ac.uk

6 - The Cocktail Lovers

02.

IN-the know

STOCKING UP ON OUR NEW SEASON’S COCKTAIL DRINKING OUTFITS

N3 o

That’s three to four consecutive days without alcohol – more realistic than an out-and-out detox but just as beneficial.

FOUR

(on a budget) at London Fashion Weekend at Somerset House, 21-24 February, and while we’re there, checking out Valentino: Master of Couture exhibition to see how it’s done when money’s no object. www.londonfashionweekend.co.uk www.somersethouse.org.uk

05

ADHERING TO THE 3:4 RATIO

Signing up to www. vintageseekers.com

PRACTISING OUR FRENCH

for its Shop by Celebration service. Give them the nod and they’ll source spirits, bar accessories and gorgeous nick-nacks for milestone birthdays and anniversaries from your specified year.

so we can get our orders in at Tony C’s Bar Le Coq in Paris. Warning Eurostar: you’ll be seeing a lot of us in 2013… www.barlecoq.com

06

Falling for custom liqueurs

like those made by Ruth Ball at Alchemist Dreams. Have a go creating your own concoctions online or try one of the excellent house blends including Blackberry Magic and Everything’s Rosy. www.alchemistdreams.co.uk

07

BECOMING FULLY FLEDGED MEMBERS OF THE JOHNNIE WALKER BLUE LABEL APPRECIATION SOCIETY. Oh come on, not only is it a mighty fine tasting whisky, they’ve only gone and signed up David Gandy as Global Ambassador… www.johnniewalker.com

08. COMBINING TWO OF

OUR FAVOURITE THINGS:

chocolates and cocktails. Anthon Berg’s Cocktail Creams include a B52, Cosmopolitan, Margarita and Strawberry Daiquiri enrobed in decadent chocolate. Who said diet? www.kingdomofsweets.com

09

DEVELOPING A CRUSH ON STRAWBERRIES especially for Valentine’s Day. We’ll be giving our loved ones Bloom gin and tonic strawberry cupcakes, available from www.primrosebakery.org.uk from 1st to 28th February.

The Cocktail Lovers - 7

10.

N 11 o

Showing off our crafty side

Warming up with fur throws and open fires

How so? By making Lego robots, knitting Mr T cosies and creating papier-mâché monster mashes, all with cocktails in hand at the wonderful Drink Shop Do in King’s Cross, that’s how. www.drinkshopdo.com

The former from the luxe collection at www.mydeco.com the latter in London’s most historic and atmospheric bar, the upstairs room at Rules. www.rules.co.uk

THIRTEEN

Building our fragrance wardrobes

With everything from Gin & Tonic, Egg Nog and Mint Julep sprays in its extensive portfolio, Demeter Fragrances should be on every cocktail lover’s must-have list. Get your collection started with the Virtual Cocktail Party set. www.demeterfragrance.com

15

VAMPING THINGS UP WITH COOL COCKTAILS AND CLASSY CABARET at The Crazy Coqs, www.brasseriezedel.com, Hippodrome Casino, www.hippodromecasino.com, House of Wolf, www.houseofwolf.com and the Beaufort Bar at The Savoy hotel www.fairmont.com

17 Taking time for tea

16

or more specifically, High Tease at the Grosvenor Hotel. Forget la-di-da, stiff upper lip affairs and welcome cocktails, champers, cake and sarnies served with saucy burlesque on the side. Now that’s more like it… www.guoman.com/tease 8 - The Cocktail Lovers

12. LAUGHING IN THE FACE OF HANGOVERS and taking precautionary measures with Noho – the wee bottle that packs a mighty punch against a throbbing morning-after-the-night-before head.

Drink one before and after a heavy sesh and according to the label, you’ll be sorted. Bwah, ha, ha! www.nohodrink.co.uk

14.

MAKING LIGHT WORK OF SPRITZING LEMONS AND LIMES by inserting this bad boy into the centre of the fruit for a citrus mist at the touch of a button. Fabulous! www.jwpltd.co.uk

Going back to nature

and seeking out foraged cocktails. Check out the beauties on the menu at Stovell’s in Surrey, www.stovells.com and Inn The Park in St. James’s Park, London www.peytonandbyrne.co.uk

BARREL-AGEING OUR OWN COCKTAILS

Who cares if bartenders have been doing it for ages, it’s our turn to have some fun.

We’ve got our order in for the Mature Your Own kit available from the ever-inventive Master of Malt. www.masterofmalt.com

19.

Keeping tabs on important dates

We’ll be making our mark on the beautiful Snow Queen vodka calendar photographed

by Ellen von Unwerth. Available from www.snowqueenvodka.com

21

TWENTY

BOWING AT THE ALTER OF THE NEW WAVE BLOODY MARY

Find delicious, inventive twists on the vitamin C-enriched classic making waves at 69 Colebrooke Row www.69colebrookerow.com Bart’s www.barts-london.com and The Parlour www.theparlourbar.co.uk

ADDING WINE TO OUR GROOMING RITUAL no, not in our glasses but with the Vinothérapie Spa range from Caudelie. Apply the detoxifying Crushed Cabernet Scrub and Body Oil to your dry parts and say bye, bye drab winter skin, hello buff bodies. www.uk.caudelie.com

TWENTY THREE GIVING OUR BARWARE THE RESPECT IT DESERVES and only drying our kit with this cool-as-you-like tea towel by Stuart Gardiner. Available from www.rockettstgeorge.co.uk

22 HAVING GOGO COCKTAILS ON SPEED DIAL For an array of tasty libations such as Spiced Apple Daiquiris and Gimlets delivered to our door. www.gogococktails.com

24. TUNING INTO FREQUENCY AT RADIO for posh cocktails, stylish nibbles and live DJs on the rooftop of ME London, on the last Thursday of each month. www.melondonuk.com

25.

SIGNING UP FOR SPIRITUAL ENLIGHTENMENT With the excellent courses on offer at the Wine Spirit Education Trust. Take your pick from the one-day Level 1 Award in Spirits, three day Level 2 Award in Spirits, or evening classes – perfect for wannabe drinks geeks. www.wset.com

The Cocktail Lovers - 9

Alexa Perrin

IN-terview

IN THE HOTSEAT Alexa Perrin set up the Experimental Food Society in 2009 to champion the food and drinks arts in the UK. A former PR Account Director on Hendrick’s gin, she launched Bulldog gin in the UK under her own company and has since worked with brands such as Willie’s World Class Cacao, Borough Market and House of Wolf. Here she talks about the who, what and why of experimental drinks What is the Experimental Food Society?

The Experimental Food Society takes the form of an online directory with a series of Experimental Food Society Talks, an annual large scale culinary arts exhibition and finale banquet at which all members come together with a unique installation that demonstrates their skills. Members are diverse in talents and include Food Landscape Artist Carl Warner who creates incredible landscapes out of food and photographs them; Jellymongers, and foodsmiths Bompas & Parr who are known for crazy antics such as flooding a Grade I-listed building with four tonnes of punch!

What are your predictions for the future of drinking and in particular, cocktails?

I think we are going to continue to see a rise in artisan spirits, the use of premium and rare teas in cocktails and molecular mixology. I also think that rather than focusing on the ‘serious art of mixology’ we are going to see a far more fun and theatrical side to cocktail making.

How has the way we eat and drink changed since you started the Society?

I think people have developed much higher levels of expectation from their eating and drinking experiences.

What were once techniques and methods utilised by a limited number of high-end restaurants and bars around the world have become more mainstream as restaurants and bars across the UK adopt them to offer their customers a more multi-sensory, experiential approach. In turn, guests are expecting more. Additionally, our knowledge of food and drink and subsequent interest in it continues to grow, matched by an economic downturn that presents food and drink as an affordable luxury.

In your opinion, which bartenders are pushing the boundaries in the way we drink cocktails?

I don’t think I would be surprising your readers by naming Tony Conigliaro who is often referred to as the Heston Blumenthal of mixology. He has a revolutionary approach to cocktail making, developed in his laboratory that continues to set him apart. For a relative newcomer I would say Stephen Quainton, Head Mixologist at House of Wolf.

His experimental creations push boundaries not only with taste but the drinking experience itself. Additionally, I would also single out Marian Beke at Nightjar for his experimental approach to flavour. He consistently nails it, presenting cocktails with new flavours that excite the taste buds.

Which bars capture the essence of the Experimental Food Society and why?

House of Wolf’s Apothecary Bar, 69 Colebrooke Row and Nightjar for the reasons outlined above. Fluid Movement’s three bars, Purl, Worship Street Whistling Shop and Dach & Sons for their fun, multi-sensory and molecular approach and also The Lab Bar for its encouragement in creating some of the UK’s most creative bartenders.

Which EFS members (particularly drink ones) should we be looking out for and why?

1. Jellymongers and foodsmith’s Bompas & Parr who continue to collaborate with various premium drinks companies to create some fantastical creations.

2. Experimental food artists and experiential food event creators The Robin Collective who are doing some really innovative things with drinks. They have just created a range of bitters infused with moisture taken from the rooms (library’s, studies etc.,) of British icons such as Winston Churchill and Arthur Conan Doyle to name a few. Presented in little dropper bottles each comes with a cocktail suggestion inspired by the relevant icon.

3. Food Futurologist Dr. Morgaine Gaye who has just created the Supershake which she currently sells via her website and is about to take to market. A combination of some of the highest potency minerals, vitamins and micro-nutrients* which are all bio-available (that means, really easy for the body to absorb and use), this combination of high potency ‘super-foods’ is an elixir for the body.

What are your plans for 2013?

The Experimental Food Society is active throughout the year with commissions and I will also be planning for the annual Experimental Food Society Spectacular. Additionally there are some exciting talks ahead about a documentary series on us – watch this space!

For more details on the Experimental Food Society see www.experimentalfoodsociety.com 69 Colebrooke Row www.69colebrookerow.com Dach & Sons www.dachandsons.com House of Wolf www.houseofwolf.co.uk The Lab Bar www.labbaruk.com Nightjar www.barnightjar.com Worship Street Whistling Shop www.whistlingshop.com

The Cocktail Lovers - 11

IN-spire

BAR GAZERS WANT TO KNOW WHAT’S COMING UP ON THE DRINKS FRONT? JACOB BRIARS, GLOBAL ADVOCACY AND TRAINING AT BACARDI, LOOKS INTO HIS CUT-CRYSTAL MIXING GLASS AND OFFERS US HIS THOUGHTS…

With bartenders having finally broken through their fear of vermouth, and their guests enjoying bitters and amari, I think this is the year when they come together and finally tip into the mainstream. From big brands to boutique products, it’s an exciting time ahead. The world’s leading vermouth, Martini, turns 150, while Noilly Prat turns 200 – and both will inspire a raft of stories about vermouth in the press. 2013 will also welcome some exciting boutique brands. What’s the appeal? Few things stimulate the appetite better than a glass of vermouth, and it’s often the ‘missing ingredient’ I suggest to bartenders needing a finishing touch to their drinks as it brings both complexity and balance to cocktails, whether made with gin or rye and everything inbetween. Plus, you can get a great bottle of vermouth for under £10. I think vermouth on ice and vermouth and soda will both be much more common in 2013, as well as playing a leading role in cocktails rather than making do with a bit part.

As bartenders increasingly fall in love with higherproof spirits, I suspect our clientele will express the opposite craving – for flavoursome, refreshing drinks that can they can enjoy but still be able to sensibly face the evening’s dinner and the morning’s to-do list. The rise of drinks like the Americano and the Sbagliato, and the rebirth of the gin and tonic, shows guests are after drinks that offer the same complexity as cocktails, with less octane! Together with an increasing tendency for restaurants to pair food with cocktails, the awareness of host responsibility by venues will see a category of drinks between cocktails and mocktails, and I for one welcome that wholeheartedly.

I know many bartenders are sick of this already, and when done badly, the results can be disappointing. But it’s an easy ‘trick’ to add to a cocktail menu and the romantic appeal of ageing your own spirits is still a powerful one. Plus, a badly mixed cocktail can become a great one with a little contact with wood. You’re likely to see this method become mainstream as restaurants and even hotel chains add a barrel-aged drink or two to their cocktail menus.

The tequila of 2013 and beyond. As the neo-speakeasy trend wanes, I foresee a lot of rum drinks on the horizon.

Rum has always struck me as the most mixable spirit, from lighter styles like Bacardi through to brooding monsters like El Dorado. No spirit has the range that rum does, or offers such quality at every price point.

At one end it makes crisp, refreshing cocktails that are brighter than any gin drink, at the other it can be the base of brown and bitter drinks the equal of bourbon. I am also seeing the classic Daiquiri on more menus, and a renewed love affair with ‘guilty pleasure’ rum drinks like Piña Coladas and the Mai Tai. Bars like London’s Trailer Happiness and San Francisco’s Smuggler’s Cove have flown the rum flag for years. Now for 2013 I think the bartender’s secret won’t be too hidden for much longer.

A few years ago in the first flush of the cocktail revival, there were two kinds of bars: serious and silly. You couldn’t be both and most high-minded bars took the serious speakeasy path, serving spiritous drinks to guests in hushed tones. But now we are seeing the emergence of a new kind of bar, where the drinks are as serious as ever but the tone is much more lighthearted.

Leading this charge has been the amazing Artesian at The Langham hotel, awarded the world’s best hotel bar yet serves drinks with a great sense of humour as well as attention to detail. Artesian, Callooh Callay, Last Word and many more are bringing an element of theatre and fun that reminds us why we got into bars in the first place. I hope many more bartenders follow their lead.

I think there will be more people working on the overall experience happening in bars rather than focusing on the drinks only. This will be expressed by drinks with less but better ingredients and better service.

Guillaume Le Dorner, 69 Colebrooke Row, London

IN-spire

…AND TRENDS FOR THE YEAR AS PREDICTED BY BARTENDERS AROUND THE GLOBE The time for tight-lipped seriousness has passed, and the most popular bars are revelling in fun and nostalgia: blue drinks, creamy drinks, blenders, tropical fruits, great retro drinking vessels – a devil-may-care attitude and cheeky nods to the 70s, 80s and early 90s are all a big part. We’re no longer too snobby to dismiss punches and sharing drinks, so why not cocktails on tap, from a slushy machine or carbonated concoctions served by the bottle, making ready-to-drink cool again?

Big, innovative garnishes are great fun too. But not every drinks needs a garnish: a well-thought-out and unique glass or vessel, a nicely contrasted straw and coaster, a well positioned and stylishly delivered drink coupled with a perfectly pitched compliment or joke will speak just as loudly as a visual masterpiece atop one’s beverage.

Theatre isn’t just what is happening on the stage.

Julian de Feral, Gorgeous Group, London We’ll definitely be seeing more simple drinks such as Highballs and Boilermakers on bar menus, I think we’ll also see more fun and dive bars making an appearance. Foraging will become another big trend, with bars using and picking interesting ingredients which grow around the place they live.

Monica Berg, Icebar, Oslo Low alcoholic drinks will rise, they will be flavourful and sexy – the equivalent of the revolution vegetarian food brought to fine dining.

Also, we’ll see an increase in the number of establishments who premix (pre-batch) their drinks to ensure consistency and efficiency – very common in the USA. Bartenders will also work more with aroma.

Alex Kratena, International Bartender of the Year, Artesian, London

14 - The Cocktail Lovers

2013 will see even more of a culinary approach in the preparation of cocktails with cordials, syrups, infusions, vermouths, liqueurs, bitters and juices being prepared and batched so that cocktails can be produced more efficiently at service. The fun of cocktails most certainly needs to be brought back along with the simplicity of execution. We are going to see some exciting developments in glassware design and the vessels cocktails are being served in; low alcoholic cocktails, ale and beer will be jumping on the cocktail gravy train and conceptual drinks are still going to play a big part in showcasing the skills of resident bartenders.

Adam Freeth, MD, Shaker Consultancy, London Top quality simple drinks and service is our goal for the year and therefore the trend for us. Premium, mostly local ingredients and the balance between them is another goal.

The economic crisis turned our attention to local treasures, including herbs, spirits and liqueurs like Skinos Mastiha which had been overlooked before. The Mediterranean has always had a big tradition in cooking and drinking and we want to make this global.

Another trend will be the classics revisited cocktails, taking a new look at classics using the best of our liquors and replacing old stuff with new, homemade natural ingredients.

In general let’s go back to basics: simplicity/balance in cocktails and top quality in service and ingredients. Last but not least, we believe that the big new trend of the year is to keep huge smiles on both sides the bar!

Thanos Prunarus, Baba Au Rum bar, Athens, winner Cocktail Bar of the Year, Cocktail and Drinks Menu of the Year and Best Spirit Selection of the Year, Greece

IN-spire I see bartenders using a lot more spirits such as Calvados and Cognac, stepping away from the classic combinations associated with those spirits and using bolder, fresher flavours instead. For instance, instead of pairing Cognac with heavy ingredients such as chocolate, I think you’ll see bartenders use lighter more floral flavours, with a drier more acidic edge. - Marcis Dzelzainis, Bar Le Coq, Paris Mainstream western markets like the UK, Australia and the US will finally adapt their palates to appreciate drier cordials and liqueurs like Campari, Unicum and Fernet Branca. It sounds obvious, but Australia will follow the lead of leading restaurants and start paying more attention to the season, provenance and perhaps even stop buying imported fruit. Bartenders will go back to basics, finally realising dry ice is a stupid gimmick. In 10 years time we will look back at flavoured fogs/mists/airs in the same way we look at Tom Cruise in Cocktail. Kinda amazing, but happy we have moved on.

Tim Philips, Diageo Global World Class winner 2012 and owner Bulletin Place, Sydney Trends for next year? In my humble opinion cities like London, Berlin, Sydney are busy with experienced bartenders with decades of service fulfilling their dreams and opening small bars. Mostly that means getting fresh ingredients, playing around with a few seasonal ideas, creating unique concepts and holding on to them. As I spent the last four months in Asia, I can say that all of this is slowly happening here as well and China isn’t too far behind either. My new home 28 Hong Kong Street is a proud fighter for bars in south east Asia to keep on this trend.

Zdenek Kastanek, 28 Hong Kong Street, Singapore On the drinks front, there are going to be many impersonators on themes but I think we will be looking at simpler drinks, cleaner garnishes, less ingredients – more homemade and hopefully better. Gin’s going to get bigger, white and aged rums are going to explode and I think we will see a trend for a lot more aperitif and wine based or vermouth cocktails. It’s a shame we can’t just trend service and the art of hospitality, this year, last year, next year and every other year after. My ‘last words’ on trend - keep an eye out for bartender collaborations with major brands and my move to London.

Jamie MacDonald, The Raconteur, Edinburgh

2013 looks set to continue the revived interest we witnessed last year in all things whisk(e)y with a renewed vigour from a young demographic for simple ways to enjoy it. Food pairing plays a large part for us and we will be driving experimentation in the fortified wine world with a focus on dessert wine as a cocktail ingredient. People requesting specific gins and pairing them with specific tonics (brandcalling) is also starting to kick off and this will continue to grow. Despite the grumbling from the trade about new gins every five minutes, consumers are really grasping the array of gins with different perfect serves available to them from the high street to top-end bars with G&T lists.

Jody Monteith, The Liquorists, Manchester With more people becoming excited about drinking occasions and cocktails, it seems only natural that more accessible drinks should come to the fore. Accessible doesn’t just have to mean cheesy 1980s drinks.

Speed of service continues to be the pet hate of guests and managers alike who wish there was more money going through the till and we should see more venues looking at ways to increase speed and efficiency. Lists of approximately ten drinks or so will find their way into many bars. It allows for an easier rotation of new drinks ideas, seeing what works and what doesn’t. Plus it allows for more flexibility in drinks offerings at different times of the week.

Leanne Davidson, Bacardi Brown-Forman Brand’s Training Team, UK I think vinegars will be big. Generally they are being used in ‘shrubs’ (American colonial cocktails made with vinegar syrup, spirits and water) but in some cases, as a standalone ingredient – ‘Pok’ drinking vinegar is a good example.

I’m doing a winter citrus shrub made with Blood Orange Vinegar, tangerine juice, sugar and Averna Amaro.

Tim Cooper, Goldbar, New York

The Cocktail Lovers - 15

IN-focus

The world of cocktails is so much fun, in part, because people are more willing to be playful and to be surprised by the contents of a cocktail glass than they are by the food on a plate. Just think, for example, of the incongruent colouring of the orange-flavoured cocktail ingredient, blue Curaçao. In fact, it’s surprising that it’s taken molecular mixologists as long as it has to follow in the path of the molecular gastronomists, in terms of their enthusiasm for innovation and their desire to deconstruct and then to recreate dishes/drinks in wholly new ways. But from the evidence that I have seen recently, the mixologists are catching up fast.

Now, while the idea of matching the music to your drink might sound altogether futuristic, it is worth noting that novelists have been talking about such possibilities for well over a century. Take, for example, Jean Des Esseintes, the lead character in Huysmans’ (1884) novel, Against Nature. He builds himself a “liqueur flavours keyboard” that allows him to play “on his palate a series of sensations analogous to those where music gratifies the ear”. The taste of dry Curaçao is very much like the “clarinet with its shrill, velvety note”, while Kummel liqueur corresponds to “the oboe, whose timbre is sonorous and nasal”. In a similar vein, the French author,

Here at the Crossmodal Research Laboratory, based at Oxford University’s Department of Experimental Psychology, we are currently particularly interested in studying the ways in which the sounds a drinker or diner hears can change their behaviour toward, not to mention perception of, food and drink.

Illustration: dreamstime/photograph at 69 colebrooke row

We work extensively with Condiment Junkie, a Londonbased sonic design/branding agency. While previously, we collaborated on ‘The Sound of the Sea’ seafood dish served at Heston Blumenthal’s Michelin-starred The Fat Duck restaurant in Bray, we have now started to turn our attention to the design of soundscapes to bring out the taste/flavour of cocktails.

One hears anecdotally that listening to loud German techno music brings out the alcohol in a drink. While German techno might not be everyone’s preferred soundtrack to accompany a particular cocktail, we have recently demonstrated that there is actually a scientific way to match music and soundscapes to the tastes and flavours of drinks such as wine, coffee, and beer. For although it might sound bizarre, it turns out that most people will match sweetness in a beverage, and red fruit flavours (e.g., raspberry, strawberry) with high-pitched notes, and if you ask them to pick an instrument, more likely than not they will choose the sound of a piano. By contrast, most people associate the bitter tastes of coffee and dark chocolate with low-pitched and brassy notes. Knowing this, one can start to choose particular pieces of music, or, if you happen to be Condiment Junkie, create specific soundscapes to ‘synaesthetically’ match one or other of the competing tastes or flavours in a cocktail. Indeed, this is precisely what we did at a recent masterclass at 69 Colebrooke Row. To give you an idea of what is possible here, in our latest research with Condiment Junkie and The Fat Duck experimental research kitchen, we found that people will rate a bitter/sweet toffee as tasting significantly more bitter while listening to a ‘bitter’ low-pitched soundscape, while rating it as tasting sweeter when they sample exactly the same food while listening to a higher-pitched ‘sweeter’ soundscape (you can listen to the soundscapes on The Condiment Junkie website www.condimentjunkie.co.uk).

musician and playwright Boris Vian more recently described a “pianoctail” that, or so he imagined, would prepare drinks appropriate to the music that happened to be playing at the time.

Where the molecular mixologists and gastronomists lead, sensory marketers soon follow. And so it is in this case. There is now a huge commercial interest in the matching of music to taste and flavour (what is often described as synaesthetic marketing). Everything from Starbucks’ 2011 release of a low-pitched musical composition, that people could download from the web, and which was designed to enhance one’s morning coffee, through to the Italian beer manufacturer who recently launched a range of musical beer bottles (see www.elavbrewery.com). However, perhaps the most interesting example here for the cocktail lover comes from Courvoisier’s December launch of a sensory App that provides a series of distinct musical exerts designed to match several of the key flavours/aromas, such as candied orange, ginger biscuits and crème brûlée, that are present in its XO Imperial Cognac (see www.courvoisier.com/uk/le-nez-de-courvoisier-app/).

Given all the recent excitement around the synaesthetic matching of music with tastes and flavours, don’t be surprised if you find a CD of carefully chosen music attached to the back of the next cocktail book you happen to buy from one of the star mixologists of the moment. Indeed, the last year or two has already seen a number of chefs, such as Pierre Gagnaire in France and Zaccary Pelaccio in the US, do just that!

For more information visit: www.psyweb.psy.ox.ac.uk.ac

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IN-focus

Bright Sparks To be innovative in the drinks world, you’ve got to look outside the industry. So says Olivier Ward of Anonymous Artists. “If something’s cool in fashion, food or music say, why shouldn’t it be translated to drinks?”

Why not indeed? It’s this way of thinking that gives his integrated communications company the edge when it comes to creating memorable, fun and engaging events which take drinks brands out of the dark ages and into consumer consciousness. It’s also the reason why brands such as Monkey Shoulder and The Balvenie have embraced the Anonymous Artists way of doing things. Thanks to them, the two whiskies – one fresh and modern, the other steeped in heritage and tradition – have managed to dispel the serious, old duffer connotations younger audiences tend to associate with the liquid and reinvented them into something relevant, sexy and cool.

Take the work the team have done with Monkey Shoulder for instance. While the spirit and the seriously good cocktails it creates are integral to the overall message, the Anonymous crew dig deeper, immersing guests in a fullyinteractive experience. From frolicking in a pit of popcorn to foraging for chocolates in an indoor wilderness; making Manhattans while strapped into a big yellow taxi or taking on various boxing related challenges to create a whisky punch, these playful ways of linking the product to imaginative happenings are certain to spark conversation and keep the product top-of-mind.

How one integrated communications company are bringing ‘newness’ to the drinks industry

“We try to be as extreme as possible when thinking about new ideas and then see how close we can get to making them a reality,” Ward says of the company he runs with his brother Emile. “It’s important to remain playful and put the consumer first. There’s also an element of risk involved.” Not risk for risk’s sake obviously, but enough (and perhaps a teensy bit more in Anonymous Artists’ case) to challenge perceptions and get people talking about the product in question.

Calling on a rosta of creative minds from a broad range of disciplines, Olivier, Emile and the team of four pride themselves on their ability to produce bespoke solutions that are as varied as their clients. For The Balvenie they focused on the craftsmanship of the product, building a continually evolving bar and exhibition space where visitors could explore the intricacies of the whiskymaking process, sample drinks and talk to whisky experts – all for free. It was a huge success and paved the way for The Balvenie Masters of Crafts awards.

“I do get annoyed when people point to an event and call it ‘experiential’, Olivier says when describing what the much bandied around term actually means. “It’s not, it’s an event. Experiential is a culmination of an event, PR, digital, on-trade, off-trade and bringing them altogether.

That’s how you get ‘newness and that’s exactly what we do.’” See what they mean at For One Night Only, their next Monkey Shoulder event on 21st March. ‘Newness’ is guaranteed. www.monkeyshoulder.com/foronenightonly

The Cocktail Lovers - 21

IN-focus

STAYING IN VS

GOING OUT Braving the elements to check into your favourite bar, or making your own cocktails in the warmth of home, which will you be doing this winter?

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IN-dulge

Whisky a-go-go

Whether you’re a newbie to or a fully paid-up member of the whisk(e)y appreciation society, your glass is as integral to the enjoyment process as the spirit itself. Take a sip from our pick of the best for every mood and budget

FOR THE NEW WAVE CLASSICIST: Shapely, solid and sophisticated – just what the whisky doctor ordered.

Bold flat cut ‘Freddie’ tumbler, from £69, William Yeoward. www.williamyeowardcrystal.com

FOR THE NON-CONFORMIST: Well-priced, well-designed glasses for people who don’t take life too seriously.

Leaning Old-Fashioned glass, £5.50, (for a pair), Urban Bar. www.urbanbar.com FOR THE SERIOUS TASTER: The experts choice: carefully crafted to enhance your drinking pleasure.

Vinum Single Malt Whisky Glass, £40 (for a pair), Riedel. www.riedel.co.uk

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IN-dulge

FOR THE MODERNIST: Discreetly dimpled and seriously chic.

Normann Copenhagen Whisky Glasses, £34.95 (for a pair), Handpicked London. www.handpickedcollection.com

FOR THE BARGAIN HUNTER: FOR MAKING A BOLD STATEMENT: Show-stopping black crystal glasses for those who like to stand out from the crowd.

No frills, no fuss, no worries if they break – keep these in your cupboard on stand-by.

Crystal Glass Tumbler, £15 (for 4), Sainsbury Home Collection. www.sainsburys.co.uk

Octopus Tumbler, Black, £145, Asprey. www.asprey.com

FOR A TWIST ON TRADITION: Cross-cut crystal glasses in dramatic cobalt blue.

Lismore Cobalt Double Old Fashioned tumblers, £195 (for a pair), Waterford. www.uk.wwrd.com

FOR THE FUNSTER: Rock your whisky to life without ever spilling a drop.

Rocking Tumbler, £17.50 (for 4), Britt Bonessen. www.carolinemcgrath.co.uk

The Cocktail Lovers - 25

IN-style

MODERN ORIENTAL (above): Megs wears Zihra blue crepe de chine tunic with kimono sleeves, £519, Rohmir. Esther wears patterned Chinese jacket, £30, Chinatown; black netted pillbox hat, £345, Enmy Jaarsma, The Hat Gallery. Maria Carol wears long red and black Regent dress, £109, Ossie Clark Collection, Debenhams.

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IN-dustry greats

The need for

Speed

Females at the bar? Nothing new in that, but a female-only speed-based bartending competition? Now that’s definitely a first for the UK. We talk to Ivy Mix and Lynnette Morrero about their plans to bring Speed Rack across the pond Ivy: “The idea for Speed Rack came after I’d been asked to take part in a series of videos called ‘Shaker Faces’ which were doing the rounds at the time.

I was one of the only females who was involved which got me thinking: wouldn’t it be fun if we did a spoof for the girls? My original idea didn’t even feature their faces, it would just zone in on their boobs as they showcased their bartending skills. Un-PC I know but initially it was a fun, crazy thing but the more I talked to people, the more serious it became.

I mentioned the idea to Lynnette who had started LUPEC (Ladies United for the Preservation of Endangered Cocktails) in New York. All I had at this stage was the name Speed Rack (which I’d registered on the advice of a friend), women and boobs but she loved the idea.

We worked on a format, decided to incorporate a breast cancer charity, then got on the phone to our friends in the drinks industry to raise the money to do it. We launched in 2010.”

Lynnette: “St. Germain was one of our first sponsors and they have continued to be supportive; also becoming one of our first sponsors for the UK tour.

We’ve been very lucky to get support from many large companies and it’s great because we get to work with so many different brands. It’s great to see Pernod Ricard, William Grant, Remy Cointreau and Bacardi all in one room supporting such a cause.”

Ivy: “Each qualifying round starts with 16-20 women in each city and during the competition, they’re whittled down to one. We have eight rounds with two women competing against each other, making four drinks randomly selected by the judges in the fastest time possible. It’s pretty nerve-racking because they’re being watched by the judges and cheered on by the audience that kind of pressure can do funny things to you! Speed

30 - The Cocktail Lovers

is key but that’s not the only thing contestants have to think about; they also get marked for accuracy. It’s a really fun event but it’s also very serious.”

Lynnette: “We piloted Speed Rack in New York, on home turf. The format has remained consistent but we have got more efficient and fine-tuned our systems. We definitely have more opportunities during the events to talk about the cause, and that’s great. It’s more of a performance now. We did add a 20 second penalty to the competition and also decided that sticking to classic cocktails is best.”

Ivy: “That first competition made us realise how Speed Rack brought the ladies together. I was never a sorority sister but Speed Rack is a sisterhood and I realised that at the first go.”

Lynnette: “At first people thought Speed Rack was anti-men but it’s not, it’s about elevating and celebrating great female bartending talent. Speed Rack gives women the platform to step on and show the world how amazing they are and how good they are at their jobs.”

Ivy: “The cities that create the biggest buzz varies. The big cocktail hubs are always huge: New York (our home), San Francisco (my home away from home), and actually Texas (who knew!?). Seattle this year is also creating a lot of buzz.”

Lynnette: “Speed Rack Houston raised the most money for our chosen charity last year (over $9,000), this year they have already raised over $10,000 in local events, so look set to raise over $15,000.”

Lynnette: “The best advice we received regarding the competition came from industry legend Audrey Saunders, who got it from another revered name in the

business, Dale DeGroff and that was to take the wheel of the car and drive. Speed Rack is a full-time job and to have the support of the top names in the industry including Julie Reiner, Audrey Saunders, Dale DeGroff and Steve Olson is just incredible.”

Ivy: “2012/2013 has been going really well so far.

There’s been lots of travel, lots of really amazing girls and also lots of new cities for us. We went to Boston and New York again but have also embraced Tampa, Tucson, St. Louis and San Antonio – all new cities for us and new ladies to meet, greet and get to know.”

Lynnette: “One of my stand-out moments from the first competition was when one of the competitors Beate Kiser tossed her mixing spoon into the crowd It was amazing! She was super-fast. She was a club bartender when she entered the competition first time round and she came back and worked on her skill. It was great. Also the comaraderie and excitement among the women really struck me. It’s been amazing to see them really challenge themselves personally.”

Ivy: “Why Speed Rack UK? It’s time for Speed Rack to spread its little wings and fly! The UK seemed like such a fantastic fit for many reasons. We have lots of friends in the UK, we love that London is a cocktail mecca and that

the cocktail craze has spread across the UK. Also, we think it’s a prime time for Speed Rack to be here because we don’t know that many ladies in the UK. We know they’re there; we know that they are good at their jobs; we know they are badass, and yet, we don’t know them.

That is what Speed Rack did in the US, created a platform for ladies to stand on, if they should so wish, and use it to say: ‘Hey! We’re here, and we work and work hard.

Pay attention!’”

Lynnette: “I think in general there will be a different style and presentation in the UK but that’s true of US vs UK bartenders in general. We are excited as we’ll only have one big event so it will be grand like the finals in LA. Also London and New York have such a great connection and we have the indispensable Ria Soler working there. It just made sense ” Ivy: “Once we’ve conquered the UK, I think our first thought will be mission accomplished then: where can we go now? There are ladies everywhere, it’s just a matter of getting there…”

Speed Rack UK takes place at Village Underground on 8 April. For more details on entering and buying tickets for the event, see www.facebook.com/speedrackuk All proceeds go to The Haven breast cancer charity.

The Cocktail Lovers - 31

IN-dustry greats

HARVEY NICHOLS COCKTAIL M ASTER CL ASS LEARN HOW TO BLEND PERFECT COCKTAILS AND A FEW OTHER TRICKS OF THE TRADE, PERFECT FOR GROUPS OF FRIENDS, SPECIAL OCCASIONS, OR SIMPLY TO TRY SOMETHING A BIT DIFFERENT. FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO BOOK PLEASE VISIT WWW.HARVEYNICHOLS.COM KNIGHTSBRIDGE, BRISTOL, DUBLIN, MANCHESTER, EDINBURGH, BIRMINGHAM, LEEDS, OXO, PRISM.

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Home is where the art is

Why have a distillery in a clinical laboratory when you can create award-winning, artisan spirits from home?

The most surprising thing about Ian Hart and Hilary Whitney is not the fact they run a successful micro distillery from their family home in Highgate; or that Ian previously worked in finance and Hilary as a former agent for Bond girl Naomie Harris; no, the thing that strikes you about the couple is just how down-to-earth they are. We put it down to their working environment…

Hilary is big smiles and warm hugs as she greets us at the door, ushering us past the main living areas and into the inner sanctum of the Sacred Spirits Company. A scaled-down lab this is not. Instead we find ourselves in what resembles a traditional well-used dining room – all wall-to-wall pine cabinets, matching shelves and chairs; there’s even a sofa and television lurking in the corner.

At the heart of it all is a simple but solid kitchen table

(pine, of course) over run with bottles of this, that and the other, myriad glass tubes, lots of rubber nozzles and more pans and condensers than you’d find in the average chemistry department at school. In fact, and I’m sure they won’t mind us saying this, it resembles the secret testing room of the nutty professor.

This is where the magic happens. And by magic we mean the decidedly superior portfolio of artisan spirits the company of two produces. There’s the award-winning gin, a delicious Spiced Vodka, a perky Spiced English vermouth and at the time of writing, a limited-edition Christmas Pudding gin.

For aspiring gin-makers there’s also the wondrous Open Sauce botanical kits containing six 20cl distillates to sip on their own, give extra welly to your existing G&T, or blend together to concoct your own gin.

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So how did a former headhunter for the financial sector and his partner with a theatrical background become players in the drinks business? “From the end of 2006 onwards the global banking system became a vast trainwreck. No one was hiring in the financial sector and I had to find another way to make a living,” Ian recalls in his soft, calming voice. “I have a natural sciences degree and I’ve always been interested in distillation, it was the sort of thing I liked to do in my spare time as a kid. As I have a large collection of Bordeaux wine, it occurred to me to use vacuum distillation equipment to remove water from some of the less successful vintages to create a richer wine.” As you do.

Fun though it was, Hart recognised that the new, improved wine was fundamentally someone else’s product, “However, I really enjoyed the distilling process and as I’ve always appreciated a good gin and tonic, I thought I’d try my hand at creating my own gin – something a bit different, something made in London.”

Every Sunday night we’d take our latest gin recipe into our local pub, The Wrestlers, for people to try Hence the kitchen table-cum-laboratory set-up. And did we mention the Wendy House containing the vaccuum pump that sits in their garden? Talk about keeping it close to home… The same can be said about their initial entry to the market. “Every Sunday night we’d take our latest gin recipe into our local pub, The Wrestlers, for people to try,” chips in Hilary. “It was incredibly generous of landlord, Martin Harley as when people were sampling our gin, they weren’t spending any money! One evening in early 2009, everyone was unanimous that our 23rd recipe was a great gin and, importantly for us, unlike other London Drys. Martin said if we bottled it, he would put it behind the bar. That gave us the impetus to produce our first 2,500 bottles.”

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IN-dependent spirits

The recipe in question is a deliciously dry, refreshingly piney, delicately spicy mother of a gin created by first macerating the botanicals in premium English grain spirit, then distilling them separately under reduced pressure. It’s this last bit that gives Sacred gin its distinct character. As for those botanicals; there are 12 – all organic – including fresh cut citrus, cardamom, nutmeg, juniper of course, and a type of frankincense called Boswellia sacra which inspired the company name.

Not long after going into production Sacred gin was listed in the go-to outlet for drinks buffs, Gerry’s Wines and Spirits in Soho as well as Fortnum & Mason, suppliers to Her Majesty The Queen. “That kind of endorsement was hugely encouraging and persuaded other retailers to take us seriously,” Ian says. The other big thumbsup for the company came when the Martini Maestro Alessandro Palazzi from Dukes Hotels picked it out as his gin of choice. “That was a real turning point for us,” says Ian. “It represented a very important nod of quality approval from one of the best Martini bars in the world.”

The products are now stocked in bars and retail outlets the world over, with the team producing around 1,000 bottles a month. Despite the success, they still operate in much the same way as they did at the beginning: from home with Ian responsible for all the distilling and Hilary dealing with press and publicity. “Apart from that we don’t have clearly defined roles,” explains Hilary, “we just get on with whatever needs doing – from processing orders and making deliveries to hand-bottling small runs and hosting tastings for our customers. We have no shareholders, no bosses and no-one we owe money to.

It’s hard work but it’s also incredibly varied. We wouldn’t have it any other way.”

For more information, see www.sacredspirits.com photography by Ben Quinton. www.benquinton.co.uk Twitter @ben_quinton

I really enjoyed the distilling process and as I’ve always appreciated a good gin and tonic, I thought I’d try my hand at creating my own gin – something a bit different, something made in London

The Cocktail Lovers - 35

IN-formed

WORD UP...

NEWS, VIEWS, REVIEWS AND HOW-TOS

HOW TO… Buy Champagne How much should you expect to pay for a ‘good’ entry-level Champagne?

Champagne’s diversity extends to pricing which conveniently fits all pockets and occasions.

Few consumers realise that there are three ‘families’ of Champagne: non vintage, vintage and prestige cuvées. NV accounts for the majority of production with prices ranging from £20 to £30. Expect to pay £30 plus to £60 for vintages and anything from £60 to £200 plus for prestige cuvées.

What are the key characteristics to look out for?

It’s very personal. For me, it is freshness and complexity.

How should you drink it?

CREATE A STIR EACH MONTH: JANUARY: Detox month Blueberry and Rosehip Sling (by Shaker Consultancy) 8 blueberries 20ml rosehip cordial 25ml passion fruit purée 15ml fresh lemon juice 50ml apple juice Method: Muddle blueberries in glass, build remaining ingredients and churn through crushed ice. Garnish with a quartered passion fruit and three of the blueberries.

FEBRUARY: Valentine’s Day (14th) Unbridled Passion (by James Coston, Monin UK) 20ml Monin Passion Fruit Syrup 30ml rum 25ml melon liqueur 60ml pineapple juice 10ml lemon juice.

In an unadorned tulip-shaped glass that will show off the Champagne’s colour, bubbles and aromas to best effect.

Method:

What is your favourite Champagne?

MARCH: St. Patrick’s Day (17th)

Champagne’s diversity of house styles and vintages means that we have a huge palette we can choose from depending on the occasions and the company. My preferences vary according to the occasions, who I drink Champagne with and even the seasons. NV Champagne is a timeless favourite. Vintage is brilliant to match with food. Prestige Cuvées are superb for very special occasion or to gift to dear ones.

Francoise Peretti, Director, Champagne Bureau UK. www.champagne-civc.co.uk

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Combine ingredients in shaker filled with ice cubes and shake vigorously.

Pour into a glass and garnish with a rose petal.

St. Patrick’s Day Julep (by Ago Perrone and Rusty Cervan for the Irish Tourist Board) 40ml Inish Turk Beg – Maiden Voyage Irish Whiskey 40ml Guinness 7 fresh mint leaves 3 blackberries infused with port 3 dashes of liquorice bitters (or Angostura Bitters) 1 tsp of caster sugar Method: Gently muddle fruits in whiskey glass, add rest of ingredients and fill up with crushed ice. Swizzle (mix them gently). Garnish with mint sprigs and blackberries.

MUSIC TO DRINK COCKTAILS TO...

The Bryan Ferry Orchestra, The Jazz Age

Come with us as we step back in time. It is the 1920s. It is a time when gentlemen dressed for dinner and ladies dressed to kill. We are crossing the threshold of The Savoy hotel in London and we are bound for the bar. As we enter our eyes adjust slowly to the dimmed lights, catching sight of ecstatic dancing and dashing waiters.

Our ears adjust too, to the noise: laughter and chatter in harmonious competition with the exuberant shaking of cocktails As we take our seats and dispatch our drinks order, our ears catch another sound. A band has struck up and is playing delightfully dizzy jazz, but there is something strangely familiar about it – it is the Roxy Music classic Love Is The Drug. Played at a fabulously furious pace, it is enticing and intoxicating. Synthesisers and electric guitars have been replaced by violins and violas, trumpets and trombones. We sip our White Ladys and Dry Martinis, and we dance to curious, catchy renditions of Do The Strand, Slave To Love, Virginia Plain and more from the Bryan Ferry oeuvre.

This is not altogether a fanciful daydream. The Jazz Age from The Bryan Ferry Orchestra is a joyful reworking of gems from the Ferry and Roxy Music back catalogue, played in the style of jazz standards of a bygone age. Pour yourself your classic cocktail of choice, listen to this album and step into a fantasy like no other.

BMG Records. Available from www.amazon.co.uk

ONE FOR THE DRINKS CABINET Whisky-lovers, make a space for Ealanta, the fourth annual release in Glenmorangie’s exclusive Private Edition range. This is one 19 year-old you won’t want to mess with, coming in at a fully-matured, very refined, 46% abv.

Priced £74.99, available from www.whiskyshop.com; www.royalmilewhiskies.com; www.thewhiskyexchange.com.

The

Cocktail

Girl

In pursuit of spiritual enlightenment in London’s bars I’m such a frequent visitor to Barrio North in Angel that I know the bartenders by name. Once, after an absence of about six months I was greeted with: ‘where have you been, we’ve missed you’ like I was Norm from Cheers. So I guess it’s fair to say I’m familiar with the bar and its concept. Which is why I was expecting good things from its latest outpost, Barrio East in Shoreditch .

And I wasn’t disappointed. There are differences though.

While Barrio North has the cosy feel of a Brazilian taverna, its sister in the east is much larger with three zones that roughly separate into drinking, eating and dancing areas. The décor is bright and eclectic and the music, though loud, isn’t intrusive enough to prevent conversation (a massive plus, especially in noisy Shoreditch). The eating space features dinky booths – perfect for dates or small groups – and there’s a huge converted caravan in the dance area which would be perfect for hiring out to small parties.

As I said, I’m pretty well versed with the Barrio cocktail menu and usually I order the simple but gorgeous Brazilian Lady (a classic mix of cachaça, passion fruit and lemon). However, this time I started with the fantastically-named Malibu Stacey (Wray & Nephew rum, Blackwell rum, lemon and passion fruit) which is basically the Brazilian Lady on steroids. It’s smooth but it does sneak up you.

On to the Jalisco Highlander (Ocho Blanco tequila, elderflower, ginger and lime), which was the ultimate palate cleanser, all perky, fresh and delicious. My final drink, the incredibly tasty Tropic Plunder (Santa Teresa rum, banana liqueur, mango and passion fruit) has become the love of my life in liquid form. Not only was it delicious but it was served in the most exciting way.

Can I just say that any bar where the waiter comes over and says: “Ladies, would you like to see your cocktails set on fire?” is good with me. Half a passion fruit was dusted in cinnamon, sprayed with rum then set ablaze and dunked into the drink.

If it were possible for me to run away and start a new life somewhere with any cocktail, this would be the one.

The food here works a treat and like everything in the Barrio family, has a strong Latin flavour. Take your pick from the tasty selection of small plates and if you’re not that hungry, a side of tacos will definitely help soak up those Brazilian Ladys...

141-143 Shoreditch High Street, E1 6JE. T: 020 7749 3940. www.barrioeast.com

The Cocktail Lovers - 39

IN-formed

Tales from the bar…

Paris

by Forest Collins www.52martinis.com No longer content to just follow global trends, Paris is now bringing its own brand of bar to the scene. Some of the current newsworthy openings exemplify owners with the gumption and foresight to dramatically diverge from what we’ve seen thus far. The latest address from the Candelaria crew, Glass, maintains cocktail quality, but takes a new tack with lower prices, trends like cocktails on tap and a kicky dive atmosphere. And, this year’s buzziest opening, Bar le Coq, brings something a bit more brute with its self-proclaimed 70’s rock’n’roll edge while still employing cutting-edge cocktail techniques à la Tony Conigliaro, who is one of owners. These new and different directions prove Paris has moved from successful imitation to interesting creation. It’s a very exciting time for the Paris cocktail scene indeed.

Le Glass, 7 rue Frochot, Paris, 75009. T: (33) 09 80 72 98 83. www.glassparis.com Bar le Coq, 12 rue Chateau d’Eau, Paris 7510. T: (33) 01 42 40 85 68. www.barlecoq.com

Los Angeles

by Yolanda Evans www.theyolandaproject.tumblr.com Unless you been in a drunken stupor over the last few months, then you’re no doubt familiar with The 86 Company, the bartender-friendly spirit company founded by Simon Ford, Jason Kosmas and Dushan Zaric. Launched last September, the team hit the road with the fruits of their labour , unveiling Caña Brava Rum, Ford’s Gin, Tequila Cabeza and Aylesbury Duck Vodka to the bartending community in a few select cities across the US. Luckily for me, Los Angeles was one of their pit stops and I was able to sample some lovely libations like the Daiquiri Classico, Mum’s Apple Pie and Simon’s Bee’s Knees. They’re great boozes that make even better cocktails. And don’t think that’s just a coincidence. I chatted with Ford, who told me that when they were in the development stage, the team stopped and considered how drinks would be made with their spirits and tested the formula many times to ensure that what they crafted would make excellent cocktails. And believe me when I say this; they do. Try some for yourself as these spirits are the next big things for drinkers everywhere in 2013. www.the86co.com

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IN-vite only

SNAPSHOT: 1.

Pictures from the hottest events, competitions and openings in the last three months

2.

2.

5.

3.

4.

7.

8.

6.

9.

1. Eliza Doolittle at the Grey Goose Winter Ball to Benefit the Elton John AIDS Foundation. Battersea Power Station, London. November 2012.

4. Erik Lorincz preparing Tanqueray No. TEN and Ketel One cocktails at the Skyfall premiere. Turbine Hall, Tate Gallery, London. October 2012.

7. Bobby Womack at the Q Awards, sponsored by Red Stag by Jim Beam Fresh Tracks. Grosvenor House Hotel, London. October 2012.

2. Ellen von Unwerth and Pandemonia at the launch of the Snow Queen vodka calendar. Gallery Different, London.

December 2012.

5. Beefeater Brand Ambassador Tim Stones, competition winner Nathan O’Neill, Master Distiller Desmond Payne and Beefeater International Brand Ambassador Sebastian Hamiliton Mudge at the Beefeater Global Bartender Competition 2012. Shoreditch Studios, November 2012.

8. Glenfiddich Ambassador Jamie Milne (centre), with judges and finalists in the Glenfiddich Malt Mastermind presentation. China Tang, London.

November 2012

3. Ralph Little at the Old Vic 24-Hour Musicals Celebrity Gala after party, sponsored by Jack Daniels Single Barrel.

Vinopolis, London, December 2012.

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6. Ron Zacapa Ambassador Daniel Dove, Chris O’Dowd and waitresses at Lingerie London, sponsored by Ron Zacapa. Old Billingsgate, October 2012.

9. Salvatore Calabrese’s record-breaking world’s most expensive cocktail – a snip at £5,500. Salvatore at Playboy Club, London, October 2012