5 minute read

SIZE IS EVERYTHING

When it comes to wanting to get a drink, I for one, have many moods and personalities. A sort of Jekyll and Hyde of the cocktail circuit if you will. There have been days when all I want is to catch up with an old friend and actually be able to hear the words coming out of their mouth while I sip on a dangerously Dry Martini. Other days, the last thing I want is to be spoken to, so I’m looking for something far more distracting but with equally great drinks.

My search for the perfect bar for every mood has led me to discover them in all shapes and sizes. From tiny three-seaters in Italy to the 500-odd-cover bar in a bustling Colombian city, I’ve seen it all.

CAPACITY ≤10

Perfectly private

When in the mood for something very private, unhindered by conversations from the neighbouring table or too much information about someone’s marital issues, the intimate-style bars offer safe haven. There are single-bartender bars in Tokyo (and in fact across Japan) where there is just one person making drinks – somewhat of a virtuoso performing a solo and yes, the wait for the drink can be 10-15 minutes, which is considered very normal in places of this kind. Highly recommended bars in the city include Land Bar Artisan and Bar Dice, both of which typically serve no more than five or so people at a time, have no apprentice bartenders, and are committed to technique – don’t expect a ‘quick drink’ here. But trust me when I say your patience will be rewarded.

The omakase room at The Aubrey in London, with seats for no more than six people (if you like a snug fit) is a great place to celebrate with a very small group of friends. This needs to be pre-booked and you have to book the whole space. No single seats or walk-ins, unfortunately. But once you’re in, you’ll be regaled with beautifully crafted drinks and light bites all in keeping with the luxurious interiors of the omakase room.

Another ‘hidden’ gem of this kind is Backdoor 43 in Milan, a 43 sq. ft. bar with seats for three guests, a miniature window through which they can receive their drink (and sneak a little peek of the bartender – or their hands – at work), and entry restricted to password holders. The best part about a bar like this where you and your two friends will likely be the only guests, is that the menu is tailored for you. There is a plethora of rare and old spirits to choose from and you’ll find yourself sufficiently occupied with all the curious things hanging on the walls, while your drink is being masterfully crafted for you. The three-seat situation does have potential to get a bit awkward though, especially if someone is on a date and you’re just hanging around like the uninvited third wheel. But if you’re there with friends, it’s just the kind of place that can feel like a cool little back-room, after-hours party.

CAPACITY ≤30

Warm and inviting

Some days, the murmur of people talking over barely audible music while you sip a cold Martini is all it takes to nourish your soul. For days like this, I pick a place where I’m most likely to find a quiet seat at the bar within earshot of the bartender, and a great view of the rest of the room. A cosy bar that seats 15-20 people is what I’m usually looking for. Enough room for everyone to enjoy a sense of solitude but no chasms of empty space for it to feel desolate. The Bellwood in Tokyo’s Shibuya comes to mind – modelled after a 20th-century Japanese coffee house, it serves cocktails based on tea and coffee. Dark wood interiors, warm lighting, and the melodic sound of ice dancing in mixing glasses and cocktail shakers makes this moody little bar the perfect place to sit back with a book.

Another such find is Bar Rocking Chair in Kyoto. Housed within an old townhouse, it’s one of Japan’s best-kept secrets. Behind the long wooden bar there’s an enviable selection of spirits, and I can safely say this is quite the introvert’s haven, showcasing the finest of Japanese hospitality. A bartender serves you in the most unostentatious and elegant way possible, and knows exactly when to leave you alone and when to come back to tempt you with another crisp cocktail. This is the kind of service one dreams of at the end of a long day, and Singapore’s Live Twice is another little gem that is perfect for an evening like this. Inspired by bars in midcentury Japan, the place is warm, the service style restrained and the Vespers icy-cold – it’s the kind of place where time stands still.

When in the mood for something more edgy, Le Syndicat, located in Paris’s 10th arrondissement, is the place to go. A gritty urban space with forward-thinking drinks, industrial interiors and a great hip-hop playlist, it has all the vibes and none of the pretence.

Large and lively

A larger celebratory event or a reunion of friends calls for somewhere that serves upwards of 50 people. Bars of this kind are typically busier, a tad louder and brimming with energy – which is probably the mood you’re looking for when going out in big groups. Drink Kong in Rome, known for its uniquely progressive drinks, neon lighting and King Kong influences, is a great example of a big bar that gets it right. Much like Lyaness in London and Double Chicken Please in New York, there is no compromise on the quality of drinks or service, no matter how busy the bar is on any given night.

At a bar like Double Chicken Please, you can expect to find casual service, lots of great bar bites (their Popcorn Chicken is dangerously addictive) and that classic Lower East Side joie de vivre that makes it come alive every night. DCP is busy on most days, so the Front Room has cocktails on tap – a clever way to ensure consistency in quality and speed in service. The Back Room, however, is a whole other world, with dishes like French Toast and Mango Sticky Rice reinvented in liquid form and served as tastebud-tingling cocktails.

Bars like these are great for a casual catch-up with your best mates, but they’re perfect for first dates too, with just enough welcome distractions and conversation starters to keep your night flowing.

CAPACITY 300+

High volume, high energy

For days when I’m yearning for distraction, I’m typically in the mood for something boisterous and high energy. Something that will infuse a zest for life right back into my bloodstream and get that serotonin to do its thing. On such days, I’m inclined towards the high-volume bars, the ones that cater to upwards of 300 people and where you can forget about the very idea of personal space.

Tucked in the bylanes of bustling Cartagena is Alquímico, a bar that is a culmination of the city’s infectious energy and Colombia’s unbridled lust for life. Expect high-quality pre-batched drinks, impeccable service across all three floors, a less-than-subtle reggaeton playlist and a dancefloor that you’ll have to fight hard to keep yourself from.

Over at Himkok in Oslo, things are only slightly different. There’s no pumping reggaeton here, I’m afraid – but what they lack in dance therapy, they more than make up for in drinks. With pre-batched cocktails, taptails, beers and ciders on tap, this Norwegian bar can serve over 400 guests at a time across three main areas, and consistently deliver the highest quality drinks quickly and efficiently.

For those more inclined to enjoy a drink in a slightly more formal setting, Milan’s Camparino in Galleria might be just the spot. At this historic aperitivo bar, opened in 1915, you can have all the buzz of a high-volume bar while being served by bartenders in crisp white jackets and enjoying spectacular views of the city’s famed Duomo. Camparino has the special ability to attract as many local regulars as it does tourists and it would not be an exaggeration to say that the bar has stood the test of time for a reason: the fine art of seamlessly blending tradition with modern-day luxury.

From bars in historic squares to bars behind surreptitious doors, from the quiet corners of Kyoto to the busy streets of New York, there is something for everybody. All you need to do is pick a mood.