Christmas past and present in Antigua

You might be dreaming of a white Christmas - and in Antigua & Barbuda, that dream can come true. But instead of snow, you’ll find powdery white sand. And instead of building a snowman, you’ll be building sandcastles on one of the islands’ breathtaking beaches.

Many people escape Christmas at home for a variety of reasons, seeking the beauty, sunshine, and serenity of the Caribbean while leaving behind family politics, holiday stress, and the relentless commercialism of the season. If that sounds like your kind of Christmas, Antigua offers the perfect escape. Imagine spending Christmas Day sunbathing on a stunning beach and swimming in warm, turquoise waters.

For those who live on the islands -or those keen to celebrate the season in paradise -there’s no shortage of festive cheer. Homes and businesses are decked out with colourful decorations and Christmas trees, while carols and holiday music fill the air. Children and the young at heart might spot Santa making appearances at hotels and restaurants. Meanwhile, for those who cherish the spiritual side of Christmas, joyful services are held in churches across the islands, with the midnight mass at St John’s Cathedral being a particularly special experience. If you’d like, you can celebrate Christmas just as you would at home - albeit with a few more palm trees and a lot more sunshine.

What makes Christmas in Antigua & Barbuda truly unique, however, is the vibrant fusion of British colonial traditions and African heritage brought by enslaved West Africans. This cultural blend brings a distinctive flavour to the Antiguan Yuletide.

No Christmas is complete without a feast, and in Antigua it's no exception. While turkey and baked ham are staples, they’re often served with an island twist. Think pineapple-glazed ham infused with spices or turkey brushed with a rum glaze for an extra kick. For those with a sweet tooth, black cake (a richly spiced fruit cake) is a holiday favourite. And to toast the season, nothing beats a glass of sorrel. This crimson-coloured drink, made from sorrel petals or the roselle plant and flavoured with ginger, cinnamon and cloves, is a holiday staple. Of course, being in the Caribbean, there’s always rum on hand - perfect for spiking the sorrel or sipping neat to keep the celebrations lively.

In days gone by, things were a little different. Traditional Christmas fare was usually stew pork, lovingly slow-cooked overnight in a coal pot over the fire, with green papaya and served with seasoned rice, pigeon peas, fried dumplings, and slices of yam, green fig and sweet potato. Beyond the food, Christmas past in Antigua was marked by fascinating traditions and characters, some of which may seem curious today.

Whether you’re looking to escape the hustle and bustle or embrace a new way of celebrating the holiday, Christmas in Antigua & Barbuda offers something truly magical.

One standout tradition was the masqueraders who paraded through the streets dressed as fantastical characters. The John Bulls, for example, donned costumes inspired by African witch doctors, complete with bull horns, while their attendants, known as ‘cattle tenders’, cracked whips to provoke the bull. This would spur the John Bull to charge at the excited children following them, sending them fleeing in mock - or sometimes genuine - terror.

Another iconic figure was the Long Ghost, a towering 12-foot-tall stilt walker. Wearing masks with cutouts for eyes and noses and with their ‘grotesque’ teeth illuminated by candlelight, these towering figures roamed the streets, peering into merchant homes and soliciting donations. If refused, a hidden string would be pulled, causing the ghost’s arms to wave menacingly in protest. Some of the John Bulls travelled from villages to towns to take part in the festivities, but many of them were porters or dock workers often found lingering around the rum shops. Carollers also brought music and joy, carrying a “Carol Tree” - a wooden frame decorated with Japanese lanterns - as they sang house to house.

Jazz bands were also a beloved part of the festivities until the late 1950s. The first was the Lyric Band, formed by the Antigua Volunteer Defence Force as early as 1921, recognisable by their red and green clown clothes. Another was the Portuguese Band, dressed in red and yellow. These vibrant traditions have now sadly faded into the past.

However, even today, whether it’s traditional carols in church, festive tunes from a steel pan band, or lively Soca music, Christmas in Antigua & Barbuda wouldn’t be the same without music. Antiguans love to celebrate, and Christmas provides the perfect excuse with parties, street parades, and plenty of opportunities for visitors to join in with the fun. If you happen to be on the island on the 25th December, the Christmas Day Champagne Party at the UNESCO World Heritage site of Nelson’s Dockyard is a definite must. As the name suggests, champagne flows freely, but even those who prefer to skip the bubbly will enjoy this iconic celebration. The dockyard comes alive with music, market stalls, and entertainment, all set against the stunning backdrop of one of the world’s most picturesque harbours. It’s no surprise that The New York Times named it one of the five best Christmas events in the world.

Whether you’re looking to escape the hustle and bustle or embrace a new way of celebrating the holiday, Christmas in Antigua & Barbuda offers something truly magical. With its mix of sun, sand and unforgettable traditions, there is nowhere better to experience the most wonderful time of the year.