YOUR LOCAL GUIDE TO ESTONIA FINE DINING
Where to splurge on a great meal HOT SUN
What’s new in summer skincare BOLD & BEAUTIFUL
Lichen and moss at the Estonian Museum of Natural History ROAD TRIPPING
Alternative tours across the country
Maarja Nuut – Live at Viljandi Folk Nightlife: Hot nights in the city
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SALE Fashion. Accesories. Household products.
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Eating together brings people closer! On our summer brunch table there are exquisitely delicious and healthy dishes that are perfect as the focal point of a summer day. For the sweet tooth, in addition to other goodies, is a locally made ice cream in a waČ&#x17E;Č le cone. Price does not include drinks. The hotel reserves the right to make changes.
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editorial
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U LY 2 0 1 6
Event-Filled Days of Summer
I
f it seems like there are dozens of events happening every week and weekend during summer, it’s because it’s true. It would be fair to say that at any given time there is certainly something going on somewhere in Estonia. This month kicks off with the annual Õllesummer (or beer summer), which as the name suggests, offers beer. John Newman and The Prodigy will be playing, along with many other bands, including quite a few from Estonia. If drinking and loud music aren’t your thing, then you may be interested in the bi-annual Baltoscandal Theatre Festival in Rakvere. Enjoy two great folk music festivals this month as well. Võru Folk
takes place at the beginning of the month and Viljandi Folk wraps up July. You can read more about everything that is taking place this summer on page 15. This month we’ve also organised a few road trips for you. If you’re in Estonia for a few days, why not venture outside of Tallinn and explore other fascinating regions like the Islands, Eastern Estonia or Southern Estonia. We’ve got something for every schedule. And as always, check out our restaurant news for all the latest gastronomic delights.
Contents
Happy travels! Kristina Lupp, Editor-in-chief
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restaurants
July Highlights
6, 8 restaurants: buffets in Tallinn fine dining worth the splurge restaurant news
01 TALLINN MARITIME FESTIVAL Culture, music, and a festive atmosphere all make up the Maritime Days taking place 15-17 July in Tallinn’s port district. One of the summer’s most anticipated events will focus on vikings. The Maritime Days headliner is the popular Estonian band Ewert and the Two Dragons, who will play 16 July at the port.
02 AMERICAN CARS AND ROCK N’ ROLL The American Beauty Car Show is focused around, you guessed it, American cars. Taking place in the Haapsalu Castle Yard from 15-17 July, visitors can enjoy popular rock music, including Beth Hart (USA), Imelda May (IRE), and Mustasch (Sweden).
shopping
03 HANSEATIC DAYS IN TARTU The summer’s third Hanseatic Days will take place 9-10 July in Tartu. This old Hanseatic centre will be filled with market stalls and a varied cultural programme. There is sure to be something of interest for the whole family!
The headliner for the Saaremaa Opera Days is the Wroclaw Opera Theatre, which will perform Bizet’s Pearl Fishers, Verdi’s Othello, and Szymanowski’s King Roger. The Opera Days will take place 25-31 July at the Kuressaare Episcopal Castle.
Photo: Anton Klink
04 POLISH OPERA
10 shopping 12 shopping 14-16 Estonian road trip 20 museum 18-19 sightseeing 21 interview: Maarja Nuut 26 nightlife 22 transport 24-25 visitor information and maps
05 RALLY IN SOUTHERN ESTONIA
Your Comments ■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add – good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.
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O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seitse Merd Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel
Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee
Photo: Kaupo Kikkas
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PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal, M/L Liverpool Seaways Paldiski-Kapellskär-Paldiski HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Estonian Air Europe-Tallinn routes, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus, Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones,
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The most-anticipated motor sport event, auto24 Rally Estonia brings rally drivers from all over Europe to the winding roads of Southern Estonia. This FIA Europe event will take place 15-17 July. The rally starts and finishes in Tartu.
from
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restaurants
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U LY 2 0 1 6
Effortless Buffets Photo: Hilton
For those travelling in a large group, a buffet restaurant is a great option. Here’s a look at some buffets to check out while in Tallinn. The first Hilton in the Baltics. TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
RESTAURANT NEWS The first Hilton in the Baltics opened in June. It is connected with the Olympic Casino. The hotel rooms overlook a green park towards Tallinn’s Old Town. The view can also be admired from the second floor restaurant The Able Butler or its terrace. The restaurant offers Black Angus beef. On offer is a huge 800g portion, as well as two different burgers. The kitchen is run by the Italian chef, Salvatore Coco. On Haabneeme beach in Viimsi, check out Puri Rannaresto. Enjoy a view of the sea from the terrace. Tallinn’s courtyards are full of cosy terrraces. ÕU is an outdoor restaurant located in the Brookus courtyard/square that can be accessed from Olevimägi street. Here you can play table tennis and enjoy some fast food, like burgers from the food truck. There are also many concerts and events taking place throughout the summer. The former Kaarmanni Store has now found new life as Olde Hansa Hortus, named after a medieval wealthy merchant’s courtyard. It offers refuge from the busy Viru Street with its beautiful, calming interior. OZO is a modern Japanese restaurant that opened just before Midsummer. Amalfi, located beside it, has added an ice cream bar. The latter offers pizza, as well as interesting seafood dishes. ■
Merineitsi restaurant in the Ori-
ginal Sokos Hotell Viru is known for its cabaret shows in winter. Restaurant manager and head chef Margus Tammpere, together with his team have put together a summer brunch that surely the whole family will enjoy. Everyone can make their own burger or taco. Ingredients include pulled pork, coleslaw, warm smoked fish, and prawns. On a hot day enjoy a refreshing bowl of beetroot gazpacho. There are also many different salads to try. Of the hot foods, Merineitsi offers meatballs, chicken, and a daily fish special together with sides. There are three different desserts. Lunch is served from 13.00-16.00 until the end of August. 16 adults, children 6-12 are half price and younger children eat free. Best Pizza Buffet is open daily
from 11.00-21.00. Just like the name suggests, they have pizza, of which there are six to seven different kinds to choose from or you can order one to your liking. But pizza is not all they have, try soups, pastas, and about 20 different salad combinations, meatballs, chicken wings, chips, and spring rolls. All ingredients are fresh and local. If you’re visiting with a large group, be sure to book a table in advance. Alcoholic drinks, like beer and wine are reasonably priced. 9.90 adults (weekday lunch 6.90), children 4-10 5.90, and children 1-3 3.90. You can buy soft serve ice cream as an extra for dessert. Drinks and pancakes are free. ■
Location The Able Butler, Fr. R. Kreutzwaldi 23, Tallinn. Hilton Tallinn Park. Tallinn b3. Puri Rannaresto, Kesk tee 4, Haabneeme, Viimsi. ÕU, Vene 37, Tallinn Old Town f3. Olde Hansa Hortus, Vanaturu kael 8, Tallinn Old Town h2. OZO, Vana-Viru 13, Tallinn Old Town h3. Amalfi, Vana-Viru 13, Tallinn Old Town h3.
The combinations of salads are endless at Best Pizza Buffet.
You'll find something for every taste at Merineitsi restaurant.
Buffets in Tallinn ■ Merineitsi, Viru väljak 4, ■ ■
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Original Sokos Hotel Viru. a2. Best Pizza Buffet, Gonsiori 10. b3. Tempo. (Four soups and two main dishes), Sadama 9, Tallink Express Hotel. a2. Lime Buffet. (Breakfast and lunch on weekdays. Priced by weight). Narva mnt 11 d. a3. Bliss, (Vegetarian buffet. Priced by weight). Mustamäe tee 17. Gauranga, (Indian vegetarian dishes. Priced by weight). Pallasti 1. c4. Turg, (Large weekday lunch buffet). Mündi 3. Old Town h1. Wiegand, (Weekday lunch buffet). Põhja pst 21b. Ilmarine Hotel. a2. Senso, (Weekday lunch buffet). Liivalaia 33. Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia. b2.
Choose between the daily pizza or order your own at Best Pizza Buffet.
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U LY 2 0 1 6
restaurants
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Head chef Margus Tammpere, together with his team have put together a summer brunch that surely the whole family will enjoy.
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restaurants
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U LY 2 0 1 6
The dining room with the best view in town.
Gourmet Views of Tallinn Dinner in the Sky is back and this
year’s events will be held in the Old City Harbour of Tallinn from 15-21 July. The table, with 22 guests, will be suspended at a height of 50 metres by a team of professionals, for a unique and special meal. It’s truly a
gastronomic experience like no other! As Dinner in the Sky is celebrating its 10th anniversary, there will also be concerts in the sky together with two beloved Estonian artists, Chalice and Laura. Taking place over continents, the
idea and concept of Dinner in the Sky is to offer unforgettable fine dining experiences in the sky, together with an exclusive atmosphere, breathtaking view of the city, and wonderful cuisine from the top chefs. ■
Fine Dining Guide Tallinn’s restaurant scene continues to grow, with everything from pop ups to containers to beachside cafés to modern cuisine. The fine dining scene is no exception. We asked Tallinn locals what some of their favourite places to splurge on a good meal were, here’s what they had to say:
Ribe’s chef, Radoslav Mitro has taken Estonian cuisine and made it his own.
Estonian cuisine and international. Classic Estonian flavours like dill, sour cream and salted fish are contrasted with bolder flavours like coriander. But all in all, you will find a wonderfully thought out out menu highlighting the best of local ingredients.
Horisont at Swissôtel Tallinn
Colourful dishes at Chedi.
TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
Tornimäe 3, Tallinn Horisont restaurant and bar sits on the 30th floor of Tallinn’s Swissôtel and offers one of the best views over the city. Despite this being restaurant in a large international chain, the chef’s own signature can be seen everywhere on this inventive and innovative menu. It will be hard to choose what to have, so leave it in the hands of the kitchen and a talented sommelier. Try their tasting menu with wine pairing for a real indulgence.
Art and food meet at Art Priori.
Art Priori Olevimägi 7, Tallinn Old Town f3 Art Priori aims to combine art and food, though the food is a work of art itself. It’s a feast for the senses continues as each course arrives, simply plated, with rich and mild balanced flavours and textures. Art Priori has one of the most modern kitchens in Estonia, as well as Estonia’s youngest head chef. Between the beautiful interior, professional and friendly service, semi-open kitchen to watch all the action, and of course the creative menu, Art Priori is a dining experience well recommended.
Chedi Sulevimägi 1, Tallinn Old Town f2 For anyone that’s ever eaten great dim sum in North America, Australia, or even Asia, when you see the price for the dim sum platter here, you might think twice about ordering. Chedi’s dim sum are just wonderful, as is the rest of their food. Sticky ribs, crispy fried squid, and aromatically spiced meat dishes are just some of items that make of this sophisticated Asian menu.
knowledgeable. Ask them to suggest wine, there is no doubt they have tasted the menu and are confident in their ability to pair a glass with your meal. Food portions are generous. Especially after an appetiser, soup, and main course, it’s difficult to squeeze in dessert. In summer, dine outside on their peaceful and enchanting courtyard.
Tchaikovsky
Cru finds a balance between modern and traditional.
Vene 9, Tallinn Old Town h2 This elegant restaurant does just about everything right and is chosen year after year as one of the best in the city. The staff are friendly, professional, and most importantly,
Vene 7, Tallinn Old Town h2 Ribe’s chef, Radoslav Mitro, has taken Estonian cuisine and made it his own, experimenting with foraged ingredients, local market flavours, and preparing them in innovative ways that only international experience can bring. Try the six-course chef’s menu with wine pairing for a delightful meal and excellent service.
Ö
Cru Viru 8, Tallinn Old Town h2 Chef Dmitri Haljukov’s compete for Estonia in 2014 at the prestigious Bocuse d’Or cooking competition and made this country proud. His menu at Cru aims to find a balance between modern and traditional,
Ribe
The elegant dining room at Tchaikovsky.
Mere pst. 6e, Tallinn a2 Set in an old distillery, its minimalistic decor makes sure all the focus is on the food. The food is modern, with touches of tradition (pickling, salting, etc) peeking through. The menu is a choice between four, five, and seven courses where the chefs prepare dish after dish of interesting flavour combinations. Ö shares a kitchen and chefs with its bakficka (back room) restaurant, Kaks Kokka, which is also worth a visit. ■
Enjoy the best French specialities, milkshakes and smoothies at
VIRU CAFÉ LYON! PRESENTS
THI S I S O NE O F
T HE B E S T R E S TAU R A N T S OF E S TON I A 2 0 1 6
Live music every riday and Saturday. F
”Fantastic food under historic arches at Gloria Wine Cellar” Located in the historic walls of Tallinn’s Old Town, Gloria Wine Cellar offers visitors the chance to enjoy wonderful food in addition to the largest wine cellar in the North. Eight different sized rooms and a romantic terrace truly make this restaurant of the Old Town’s pearls.
JULY SPECIAL: (pre-order) Chef´s Special • Aperitifs • Amuse Bouche
One of the owners, Marko Hark is a sommelier and the wine cellar’s kitchen combines Estonian and European cuisine. Gloria Wine Cellar is the ideal choice for those who like fine wine and great food to go along with it. PRESENTS
THIS I S ONE OF
VIRU CAFÉ LYON IS LOCATED ON THE PARK SIDE OF VIRU CENTER.
www.cafelyon.ee
ESTONIAN CUISINE IN TALLINN'S OLD TOWN SQUARE
At Liisu’s
THE BEST RESTAU RANTS OF ESTONIA 2016
July Offer APPETISER: Beef and goose liver terrine, pickle, apple chutney, Calvados sauce.
Lunch or dinner for four: receive a free bottle of sparkling wine
MAIN: Duck breast and grape sauce, sweet potato, onion jam with black lentils. DESSERT: Rye bread and cranberry parfait
Menu price 33€ Gloria Veinikelder: Müürivahe 2, Tallinn • Tel + 372 6 406 804 • Mon–Sat 12.00–23.00 vein@gloria.ee • www.gloriaveinikelder.ee • www.facebook.com/gloria.veinikelder
Summer of Champagne: Veuve Cliquot 55€ bottle & 11€ glass.
Restaurant Liisu Juures Open everyday 10-23, Raekoja plats 13, Old Town, Tallinn tel +372 6 441 983
Welcome!
Located on the Viru roundabout, the old wooden house from 1887 contains the most exquisite new Asian fusion restaurant in Tallinn! Tai Boh brings together delicacies of whole Asia by authentic Thai chefs, craziest magical interior that blows Your mind and coctails to die for!
www.taiboh.com Mere pst.1 +372 6200 249
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shopping
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■ Department
Stores Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. b3 The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store. Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. b2 This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.
■ Central Shopping
Centres
Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2 Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques. Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2 The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2 This modern shopping centre in the Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.
Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Free bus from the port. This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world. Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja). A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants. Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65. Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn. Magistrali Keskus, Sõpruse puiestee 201/203, Tallinn
■ Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. a3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoe stores.
Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2 One of Tallinn’s newer shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket. Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2. This modern shopping centre houses top name designer stores, great cafés and restaurants, as well as a large bookstore.
■ A bit further out Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57. This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well
Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. a3 The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops. Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. a3 A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more. SadaMarket, Kai 5. a2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.
■ Food Markets as a store for everything you might need for your sauna. Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port. A modern mall just outside of the city centre. Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3. A shopping centre in the west end of the city.
Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. a1 Closed for renovations. Open in the interim at Telliskivi 62. Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. b3 Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. a2 Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a. Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a. Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8. Sadama Turg – Sadama 25. a2
Local designer pop-up shop.
Shopping Spotlight: Stockmann TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
For anyone that has visited Stockmann department store in Tal-
linn lately, some changes have been noticeable. The Baltic Guide met with Mari Villem, Marketing Manager at Stockmann, to find out just what we can look forward to in the upcoming months. “Probably the biggest change will be to the fifth floor, which is closed for renovation at the moment. Here, visitors can look forward to more restaurants and cafés, as well as beauty salons”. Stockmann has already renovated part of the main floor to bring in Katharinenthal Café, as well as Rikets florists. “We are renovating to expand and to be able to offer more to the client”, explains Mari. Stockmann’s strategy is not only to offer better customer service, but to inspire. “We want clients to visit different departments and to be inspired to try things in their home”. The houseware department is a good example of this, where different table settings, colour combinations and fabrics invite you to do a little redecorating. Stockmann offers top quality
products and brands, which can be seen throughout the store, including their wine shop and grocery store. It is the place to go for hard-to-find ingredients. The food department is impressive, with an excellent prepared foods counter, fresh meat and fish, and much more. “While we can’t be experts at everything, we can certainly find those who are. That’s why we have teamed up with Euronics to offer you an excellent selection of elec-
Get inspired with ideas for the home.
Stockmann offers top quality products and brands, which can be seen throughout the store, including their wine shop and grocery store.
tronics and appliances”. Mari also told us that the children’s department will move to the fourth floor and have a fantastic toy section from XS Toys. And from time to time, local designer brands will open pop-ups. Global Blue Tax-free shopping is
available for tourists. Tourists are also eligible for a temporary loyalty card, which is valid for three days and gives 10 off all purchases in Stockmann. A permanent loyalty card cost 3 and can be
used in Stockmann stores in Helsinki and Riga. Parking is available in the multi-storey car park located next to the main building. The entrance is off of Liivalaia. Stockmann loyalty customers receive 2 hours of free parking, for other customers it costs 1/30 minutes. ■
Location Stockmann Liivalaia 53, Tallinn b3
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Rataskaevu 2, Tallinn
Tel. +372 641 6440
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Buffet price includes: huge selection of salads, soup, Asian dishes (sweet and sour chicken, noodles, and spring rolls), chicken wings and cheesy pizzas, chips, wieners, and meatballs. And of course an unlimited choice of soft drinks! Best Pizza Buffet is a great choice for families with children and large groups! There is something for every taste!
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All you can eat and drink – Buffet 9,90€
Gonsiori 10, about 150 metres from Viru Keskus.
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35 THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD Viru 22, Tallinn, ph. +372 661 5518, www.steak.ee Eteläranta 14, Helsinki, ph. + 358 (0)504198000, www.steak.fi
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shopping
Beach Style! Seaside fashion inspired by classic, luxurious femininity. Striped swimming costume Jasper Conran €59.95 Blue purse Principles €44.95 Silver ballerinas RedHerring (Debenhams) € 29.95 Yellow leather purse Cristelle&Co (Stockmann) €89.90 Hat Cambodia market (stylist’s own) €1
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U LY 2 0 1 6
Bright tones contrast and comple-
ment. Be daring, try out new shades because summer is the perfect time for it! This season’s most popular cuts are anything from classical (form fitting and slimming) to triangles and monokinis!
Bikini from Stockmann Top €79.90 Bottom €59.90 Purse Julien Macdonald (Debenhams) €64.95 Earrings Plum D’or (www.plumdor. com) €95 Linen turban Etcetera (Stockmann) €49.90
Bikini from Debenhams Top €34.95 Bottom €19.95 Bag Fiorelli.com €59.95 Shoes Debenhams €54.95 Hat Vietnam market (stylist’s own) €2
PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV THANKS TO: CITY SPA (CITYSPA.EE) MAKEUP: BIOLOGIQUE RECHERCHE PRODUCTS MODEL: MARILIN KAARESTE STYLE: ŽENJA FOKIN
Blouse and trousers from Max&Co starting from €99.00 Sunglasses Global (Stockmann) €19.90 Earrings Plum D’or (www.plumdor. com) €55 Shoes Guess €210
Bikini from Michael Kors Top €84.90 Bottom €74.90 Earrings Plum D’or (www.plumdor. com) €95 Hat H&M €12.99, Brazilian feather fan (stylist’s own) €20. Where to Buy Kaubamaja Gonsiori 2, Tallinn b2 H&M Narva mnt 1, Tallinn a2 Stockmann Liivalaia 53, Tallinn b3
Debenhams Rocca al Mare Shopping Centre Paldiski mnt 102, Tallinn Guess Viru Keskus Shopping Centre Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn b2
BAGGYS OLD TOWN Viru 4, Tallinn Sun-Thur 10-19 Fri-Sat 10-20
BAGGYS ROCCA AL MARE Paldiski mnt. 102, Tallinn Sun-Sat 10-21
KRISTIINE BAGGYS Endla 45, Tallinn Sun-Sat 10-21
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ÜLEMISTE BAGGYS Suur-Sõjamäe 4, Tallinn Sun-Sat 10-21
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Eesti Käsitöö Kodu Products from different parts of Estonia. An exhibition of artisan. Vene 12/Katariina käik, Tallinn
www.folkart.ee
Eesti Käsitöö Maja Products from different parts of Estonia. Gallery of Folk Art Pikk 22, Tallinn Allikamajan Handicrafts Products from different parts of Estonia. Lühike Jalg 6a, Tallinn
Tallinn Old Town Medieval Days 7-10 July 2016
Eyewear boutique
+372 631 1871 viuu.ee
Telliskivi 60, Tallinn Telliskivi Creative City
New craft supply shop in the Freedom Square tunnel.
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Art, handicraft, and other hobby supplies. Pearls, semi-precious stones, beads, jewellery accessories, gift boxes, yarns, knitting supplies, embroidery supplies, embroidery floss, art supplies, oil and acrylic paints, children’s crafts, soap-making supplies, candle-making supplies, school supplies, school bags, office supplies, clay, and much more.
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Visit us at: Vabaduse väljak 9, Tallinn.
Lahemaa National Park Viinistu museum
TALLINN
Hara degaussing station
Jägala waterfall
Käsmu
LOKSA SA A Palmse Manor
Vihula Manor
KUNDA
Ontika cliff
Valaste waterfall
Viitna
KOHTLA-JÄRVE
MAARDU
PALDISKI
KIVIÕLI Rakvere Castle
KEILA A
SSAUE
KEHRA
TAPA
NARVA-JÕESUU Oru Palace Ruins
JÕHVI SILLAMÄE
PÜSSI Ü
RAKVERE
AHTME Kuremäe Nunnery
RAPLA PAIDE
ALU
MUSTVEE
Eastern Estonia Where East Meets West TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
Like with any road trip, the more
time you have, the more you’ll get to see. The good thing is is that distances are short and a few days should get from Tallinn to Narva and back with some stops along the way. Probably the most beautiful of the stops you will make on this trip will be your visit to Lahemaa National Park. Occupying an enormous amount of land (over 700 km2), Lahemaa offers visitors a stunning coastline, lush forests rich in wildlife, and little villages to explore like Käsmu and Viinistu, as well as Vihula, Palmse, and Sagadi manors. As you head east of the park, the lush landscape transforms to something industrial. Leftovers of Soviet industry can still be seen in some of the towns like Kunda, Kohtla-Järve, and Sillamäe, offering an excellent look at Stalinist-era architecture. Hara, on the Juminda Peninsula has a former Soviet submarine degaussing station that can be explored at your own risk. Rakvere is worth a stop to visit Rakvere Castle, which sits proudly on the hillside in the centre of town. The castle dates back to the 14th century. While the ruins are fascinating to look at, it’s the wide range of medieval-style activities that can be enjoyed that make this a fun stop for the whole family. Try dressing up in costumes, visit the animals at the petting zoo, or try your hand at archery or jousting, among other things. Driving further, the majestic cliffs at Ontika make for a good place to stretch your legs.
Soak up the sun on the beautiful beaches of Narva-Jõesuu.
Rakvere Castle dates back to the 14th century.
We would recommend driving through Narva (coming back of course to visit the next day) and staying overnight in the seaside town of Narva-Jõesuu, known for its long sandy beaches and spas. Narva offers a taste of Russia without having to cross the bor-
War reenactment at Narva Castle.
der. Most of the residents here are Russian and you’ll definitely hear more Russian than Estonian spoken on the streets. A wonderfully restored 13th century castle is one of the highlights of the city, where you can look over the Narva River to Russia. ■
Narva Castle
NARVA
PAIDE MUSTVEE TÜRI
LIHULA
JÕGEVA
KALLASTE
VÕHMA PÕLTSAMAA
Alatskivi Castle
SUURE-JAANI
PÄRNU Võrtsjärve watchtower
VILJANDI SINDI
TARTU
Kala ja Sibula restaurant
Viljandi Castle
ELVA Taevaskoja
KILINGI-NÕMME ABJA-PALUOJA KIHNU
MÕISAKÜLA
PÕLVA
OTEPÄÄ
KARKSI-NUIA
RÄPINA TÕRVA Setomaa
VÕRU VALGA
ANTSLA A
Piusa sa ves Caves Haanja highlands Suur Munamägi watchtower Plaani Church
Southern Estonia Rolling hills, fascinating culture, and beautiful lakes are only a few of the reasons to visit this area. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
Southern Estonia is often overloo-
ked as a travel destination, but this is too bad because there is so much to see and do that it’s worth taking a few days to explore it. One thing you will notice about this area are the rolling hills, it’s the only part of Estonia that’s not flat. You’ll have plenty of photo opportunities of stunning landscapes. Otepää may be the winter capital of Estonia, but in summer it boasts plenty of activities like hiking and swimming. Visit the beautiful woodlands of Haanja and Karula National Park. Especially noteworthy are the Piusa Caves at Taevaskoja. Here you can take boat trip along the Ahja River. Lake Peipsi stretches along Estonia’s eastern border and is one of the country’s largest lakes. It is a popular place for sunbathing, fishing, and boating. Drive the road along its western shore where you will come across plenty of stalls with smoked fish and local produce. The area is known
for its onion-growing. Put together a picnic for yourself or eat at the Kala ja Sibula (fish and onion) restaurant in Kolkja where you can taste the traditional cuisine of the Russian "Old Believers". Head even further south to one of the most fascinating regions of Estonia, the villages near Lake Pihkva, where you can can learn about the Setos and their culture. The Setos have kept their traditions alive, including their own language and clothing. They also
have a strong polyphonic singing tradition. If you are looking for more views, then head to one of the watchtowers in Southern Estonia including the Suur Munamägi watchtower and the watchtower overlooking Võrtsjärv. Some other places worth checking out are Alatskivi Castle, which dates back to the 17th century and the Russian Orthodox church in Plaani consecrated in honour of St. Nicholas in 1874. ■
Drive through the villages along Lake Peipsi.
Explore the caves in Piusa.
PALDISKI OSMUSSAARE KEILA A
The Islands
Riisipere
Noarootsi
KÄRDLA
S
VORMSI
Artersian waters Kalana port and surfing
HIIUMAA
Haapsalu Castle
H HAAPSALU
Käina Church
Thousands of islands speckle the coastline of Estonia, each with their own story to tell.
Hiiu Brewery Matsalu
Estonia’s islands boast untouched
nature and seaside villages that seem almost trapped in time. The two largest islands, Saaremaa and Hiiumaa are a good place to start, though each have much to see and do that each could be a trip in themselves. There is plenty of hiking, horse riding, and ruins to explore. Saaremaa is the largest island and is a popular spa destination. Its capital city, Kuressaare has an episcopal castle that is definitely worth a visit for its fantastic museum and beautiful grounds. The well preserved and restored castle dates back to the 14th century. Vilsandi National Park is a must-visit for nature lovers. It is comprised of 150 islands that are home to interesting plant and animal species, with many fossils to discover as well. Hiiumaa is celebrating its local flavours this year with the Flavours of Hiiumaa year, as it was chosen as Estonia’s Undiscovered Treasure competition for best food tourism destination in 2015. Be sure to visit at the beginning of August for the Kärdla Café Days, where local residents turn their yards into outdoor cafés and restaurants. The Estonian islands have a chequered history, and it is worth visiting many of the museums on several of the islands. Historical beacons, churches, fortresses, windmills and other buildings are found in several places. No less interesting is the local culture, which has survived on many tiny islands, even to the extent that Kihnu culture is recognised by UNESCO on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Back on the mainland, Haapsalu is a picturesque seaside town that was once a resort for 19thcentury Russian aristocrats. Visit the 14th-century bishop’s castle, where you will find plenty going on in summer, including the White Lady Festival. Drive up to Noarootsi and learn about the Coastal Swedes. ■
MUHU Panga cliffs
LIHULA
Angla Windmills
PÄRNU
SAAREMAA
Vilsandi National Park
Kuressaare Castle
KURESSAARE KIHNU
Sõrve lighthouse
Ruhnu Church
RUHNU
Many lighthouses can be seen throughout the islands.
The stunning Tagaranna Cliff on Saaremaa.
Windmills can be seen on Hiiumaa as well.
beauty
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U LY 2 0 1 6
17
Sun bathing 101 Keep yourself protected while in the sun. damia Professional Endless Summer hair care series with shampoo,
conditioner, dry oil, and leavein products. The shampoo, for example is gluten and sulfate-free and also contains a colour protector. 236ml 23.50
TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
Not many people realise, but the
sun can be quite strong in Estonia. The Baltic Guide visited Stockmann (Liivalaia 53, Tallinn b3) and spoke with one of their beauty experts to find out how to keep yourself protected in the sun.
easily or with rosacea. The innovative combination filter SunSitive protects you from UVA and UVB rays, as well as slows the signs of ageing. The cream has soothing Avéne water and anti-irritation properties. 50ml 21.
There are so many different brands and types of skin. How do you choose suntan lotion? Many people choose their suntan lotion based on brand and this is perfectly fine. We have many different lotions and after-sun cream to choose from, so there is certainly something for every skin type. For example, for sensitive skin, as well as for the face and neck, I recommend Avéne High Protection SPF 30, which is also good for people who burn
Ultrasun has release a new product called Glimmer suntan gel SPF 20. It is a water-and sweatproof liposome gel that reflects micro pigments and has bio restorative enzymes, which inhibits the negative effects of UV rays. It is also good for people with a sun allergy. 100ml 18.50 How, and should we protect our hair? We don’t always think about protecting our hair, but hair does need protection from the sun as well. Prolonged sun exposure dries and damages the hair, especially coloured hair. Try the Maca-
What are the best bronzers? There are so many to choose from. Try Academie (30ml €37), which you can add to your face cream; self-tanning shower gel (St.Tropez In Shower Gradual Tan 200ml €23.50), self-tanning moisturising night mask (Vita Liberata Self Tanning Night Moisture Mask
65 ml 37.90); self-tanning cream for face and body (Lumene Gradual Self Tan Lotion 150 ml €10.50); Lancaster Tan Maximizer Sublimating Oil Repairing After Sun mois-
turiser which strengthens and extends your tan 150 ml 39.50 ■
Lancaster Sun Sport Multi Protection Easy-on Gel SPF 20 gives skin
a healthy, golden, long lasting tan. You can use it both on the face and on the body and it is water and sweat proof, meaning that it’s great for active people. 75ml 33.50 For children with sensitive skin try Australian Gold Kids SPF 50 losjoon. You should apply it at least 20 minutes before going in the sun and then apply more 40 minutes after swimming, or at least once every hour.
18
sightseeing
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U LY 2 0 1 6
TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
Must-see sights of the Old Town Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels
Raekoja plats
Viewing Platforms Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arm's length. The red-tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn b1 Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church was even taller in medieval times and the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn b1 Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets. Tallinn b1
St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik) Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath, but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea, was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town e2
Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s. Tallinn Old Town h 1-2
The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means “look into the kitchen” in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick. Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn b1
Raeapteek The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location, on Town Hall Square. Tallinn Old Town h1
KGB Museum Toompea Castle The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Riigikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn b1
A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests. The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours fill up quickly so bookings are recommended. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2
Hop on, Hop off Bus Tour Sometimes you just don’t have enough time to see everything, but on the Tallinn City Tour you just might. Three lines run daily, and best of all, each one passes through the Port of Tallinn, making it even more convenient. The tour operates in ten different languages and is guided by a recorded audio track that follows the sequence of the sights. One ticket is valid for 24 hours. This means that you can travel on all three routes in one day.
Paks Margareeta Katariina käik Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene. Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants. Tallinn Old Town h 2-3
Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 metres and the walls are up to 5 metres thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn, if arriving by sea. The Estonian Maritime Museum is located in the artillery tower (suurtükitorn). Pikk 70, Tallinn a2
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U LY 2 0 1 6
sightseeing
19 ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE
TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
Outside of the Old Town Kalamaja & Kopli Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. Since the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870, many factories
opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types have moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafés began to open, and the area continues to grow.
Area: 45,227 km2. Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000. Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country. Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are nonreligious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.
Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County. Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu. Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).
A quick history of the city of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).
Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam) Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines
built in the UK in the mid 1930s. Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian War of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service. The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.
Patarei Prison (Patarei Vangla) Kalaranna 2-2a By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop.
Kadriorg Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century. The park and the palace were built by Peter the Great, who apparently
1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town. 1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn. 1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.
Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as a barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.
helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.
Pirita Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgitta’s Convent (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day in summer. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens
■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070
TOURIST INFORMATION (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TVTower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only provides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district. St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn
Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoja plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva
1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes the capital of newlyindependent Estonia. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.
■ Central Post Offices Postimaja Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2. Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1. Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3. Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla
■ Currency Exchange Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.
Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn
Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.
Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn.
Holidays
Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life
from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.
1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day
The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.
2015/2016 School Holidays Autumn Break 17 October 2015 – 25 October 2015 Winter Break 23 December 2015 – 10 January 2016 Spring Break 19 March 2016 – 27 March 2016 Summer Break 4 June 2016 - 31 August 2016
20
museum
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U LY 2 0 1 6
Museums & Galleries
TALLINN ■
Museums
Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum) Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18.
Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18.
Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace
Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, a2 www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee. We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18.
Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU) Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19.
Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, b1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18.
Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum)
Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, a5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17.
Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, h2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum. 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30.
Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum)
Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)
Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, d3 www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18.
Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum)
Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30.
Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum)
Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, f2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We 10-17, Th 10-19, Fri-Su 10-17.
Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/ basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.
Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)
■ Art Museums & Galleries
Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee. 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17.
Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum)
Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.adamson-eric.ee. We-Su 11–18
Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, a4 www.kadriorumuuseum.ee. Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17. May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17.
Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages
Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)
Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, j1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/. 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18. 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30.
Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, b4 www.mikkelimuuseum.ee. Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17. July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20.
MiiaMilla Museum (Muuseum MiiaMilla)
Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum)
Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri muuseum) Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17. Winter by appointment only.
Starring...Lichen & Moss
Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum)
Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, i2 www.tmm.ee. 1.09-31.05 May, Tu-Sa 10-18. 1.06-31.08, Mo-Sa 10-18.
L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn b4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamilla Tu-Su 12-18.
Look, touch, and smell lichen and moss at the exhibit.
Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, b5 www.kumu.ee. Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18. May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18.
Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17. Ticket office closes 16.30.
Did you know that fragrances are made from lichen or that moss is also great in the garden? These, and other fascinating facts can be learned at the new exhibit at the Estonian Museum of Natural History. TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
T
he exhibit “The Bold and the Beautiful”, is an accurate description of lichen and moss. The main objective for the exhibit’s curators, Marja-Liisa Kämärä and Loore Ehrlich was to present the unique place that lichen and moss hold in the ecosystem and introduce their survival skills in extreme conditions. Lichen and moss are not the same. Lichen is a fungi, moss is a plant and this is why the exhibit is split into two rooms. In the lichen room, you can touch different types of this fascinating fungi or look at them under the microscope. “The lichen roulette is a favourite attraction among children”, explains Kämärä. Spin the roulette wheel and different lichen appear under the microscope. According to Kämärä, lichen has been used for thousands of years. Few people know that the stomachs of mummies were filled with lichen in Egypt so that they would not collapse. Lichen that was sent into space came back alive. “At first lichen that is common to Estonia was used in
Chanel No5 perfume”, says Kämärä. Lichen is used as food as well, in such things as teas, powders, and flours that are made into bread. The moss room smells like the forest; the entire room is filled with different types of moss. “Moss is quirky, it is a very unique plant”, explains Loore Erlich, an expert on moss. “Moss doesn’t have roots, it takes the water it needs from the air or dew. It can dry completely and when it gets water, it wakes up again”.
While moss doesn’t need soil, it produces soil and acts as a growing medium for many other plants. Learn about the different animals, like squirrels and birds that use moss. Many animals like the soft moss to make their nests. People also use moss for things like pillows, handicrafts, and insulation in log houses. A newer trend is the use of moss in sanitary napkins and diapers, because moss is known for its absorbency. The different types of Japanese moss that have come to Estonia have become quite popular for gardens. “Moss is a great alternative to grass, as it requires little maintenance and stays green all year round”. Be sure to visit the rest of the Museum of Natural History on the second and third floors. There, you will learn about Estonian forests, rivers, and seashores. Exhibit texts are in English, Estonian, and Russian. ■
Location Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town g2. The exhibit is open until 8 January 2017.
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U LY 2 0 1 6
events
21 SUMMER EVENT CALENDAR 2016
Maarja Nuut:
The Single-Minded Soloist Returns to Viljandi TEXT STUART GARLICK
music, it's not really about the surface of the track, about the three or so minutes when it's in your ears. It's more about the ambiance the track gives off, and the feeling of being on a journey. What shape that journey takes is up to you, but you've got to be prepared to travel light, without preconceptions over genre, place or time. Maarja Nuut has been playing her violin since childhood and has been teaching the instrument, in Viljandi and Tallinn, for many years. Though her birthplace is the small, peaceful northern-Estonian town of Rakvere, she has become closely associated with Estonian traditional music capital Viljandi, where she is one of the leading acts at the world-renowned Viljandi Folk Festival this July. Nuut's following has grown each time she has played her ethereal music, compared to the sound of angels by fan and Duran Duran singer Simon le Bon in a 2015 tweet. The chance to hear this breakout success at the spiritual home of Estonian music is not to be missed. It might be expected that a musician who began making music that was so personal, rather than deliberately commercial, might feel added pressure given the unexpected, fast, growth of her international and local following. However Nuut keeps calm by thinking about what she wants her music to convey. "It’s all about people and their stories, me reflecting the world through sounds and finding finding ways to express them. The only important pressure is to remain fresh and interested in the surroundings," she explains.
Photo: Kaupo Kikkas
When you listen to Maarja Nuut's
approaches and ideas were put together as I was still very much into researching and teaching Estonian traditional music, connected with other projects, and I was also learning more about looping. Since then, I've begun to explore how to develop my technical setup and created a lot of new material. The new album feels more solid." Nuut feels comfortable when at
home in Tallinn, and recorded "Une Meeles" at a studio just a short walk from her home in Kalamaja, a regenerated area full of beautiful old houses and picturesque walking paths. "The album was recorded throughout summer 2015. It was a lovely wooden space, and I loved the fact that I could walk out of the door with a cup of coffee in my hand and after 10 minutes already be in the studio." Though loopers, which allow solo musicians to repeat and multi-track sounds, are prominent on Nuut's music, the technology aids a traditional song-building process. "The process often starts with improvising with my full setup," Nuut says. "Or sometimes a little melodic
phrase comes to my mind and might not develop into anything more for months, and then suddenly I take my violin and it’s all there: harmony, form, often a certain visual landscape. But more and more the starting point is to play around with the looper and create a certain soundscape that I later on develop into a piece." Nuut says there are lots of reasons why the Viljandi Folk Festival is special to her. "It’s a festival I’ve been attending since 1994, literally every year. And have been playing there with different projects since 2002. It really is a lovely festival, especially when being an artist there; it's got a nice vibe, it's well-organised, and there are lots of chances to meet and hang out with other musicians." Nuut has one standout tip for first-time Viljandi visitors. "Do yourself a favour and visit the Rohelise Maja Pood ja Kohvik (Green House Shop and Cafe), you'll find best coffee and pastries in the world! Visiting the Viljandi Folk Music Festival is very simple – just go with the flow and enjoy the beautiful stage surroundings and music!" ■
Hanseatic Days, Pärnu Hard Rock Laager, Vana-Vigala Õllesummer, Tallinn Haapsalu Early Music Festival, Haapsalu Baltoscandal Theatre Festival, Rakvere Võru Folk, Võru Medieval Days, Tallinn Glass Bead Days, Tartu Ceramics Days, Narva Hanseatic Days, Tartu Friendship Fair (Sõbralaat), Kunda Pärnu Music Days, Pärnu Pärnu Film Festival, Pärnu American Beauty Car Show, Haapsalu Tallinn Maritime Days, Tallinn auto24 Rally Estonia, Otepää Yoga Festival, Haapsalu Saaremaa Opera Days, Kuressaare Viljandi Folk Music Festival, Viljandi Jõgevatreff, Jõgeva
AUGUST 1-6 Love Film Festival, Tartu 4-7 Weekend Festival Baltic, Pärnu 5-6 Augustibluus Blues Festival, Haapsalu 5-7 Leigo Moto Festival, Kiviõli 5-7 War History Festival, Valga 6 Seto Kingdom Day, Valga 11-13 Kuressaare Maritime Days, Kuressaare 12-14 Viru Folk Festival, Käsmu 13-21 Birgitta Festival, Pirita Convent Ruins, Tallinn 13-14 Narva History Festival “Battle of Narva”, Narva 13-14 Hauka Fair, Antsla 13 August Insomnia – Night of Pärnu Arts, Pärnu 19-21 White Lady Days, Haapsalu 21 Tartu In-line Skating Marathon, Tartu 27 Night of the Ancient Bonfires, all over Estonia FOOD EVENTS & FESTIVALS 26 July Coastal Folk Festival and Fish Market, Viimsi 4-7 August Café Days, Kärdla 20 August Tahkuranna Pickle Festival, Tahkuranna 20 August Garlic Festival, Ülenurme 27 August Lüübnitsa Onion and Fish Fair, Lüübnitsa 27-28 August “Summer in a jar” Preserves Festival, Narva Castle
TARTU SUMMER EVENTS 2016 ■ Pop Choir Party 2 July, www.popkooripidu.ee
■ Urban Festival UIT 17–20 August, www.uit.ee
■ Festival “Glasperlenspiel” 7–12 July, www.erpmusic.com
■ Garlic Festival 20 August, www.küüslaugufestival.ee
■ Tartu Mill Triathlon 8–10 July, www.tartutriatlon.ee
■ Street Art Festival “Stencibility” 5–11 September www.stencibility.eu
■ Hanseatic Days 9–10 July, www.hansapaevad.ee ■ Auto24 Rally Estonia 2016 15–17 July www.rallyestonia.ee ■ Vanemuine Symphony Orchestra Summer Concert 31 July, www.vanemuine.ee ■ 10th Tartu Love Film Festival “tARTuFF” 1–6 August, www.tartuff.ee ■ Emajõgi River Festival 5–6 August www.tartu.ee/emajoefestival ■ The Food Festival 13 August, www.ettevotlus.tartu.ee
Photo: Renee Altrov Photography
Nuut's new album "Une Meeles",
the follow-up to her 2013 debut "Soolo", has just been released. It's the kind of record where, the more you listen, the more you hear. The thought process drifts from misty lakes with lonely fishing boats to the insistent squeak of a village swing. Nuut feels the new release is more cohesive than its predecessor. "'Soolo' was rather sketchy – different
JULY 1-3 1-2 6-9 6-10 6-9 6-10 7-10 7-12 8-10 9-10 9-10 11-17 11-24 15-17 15-17 15-17 23-24 25-31 28-31 28-31
■ Estonian Theatre Festival Draama 5–11 September www.draama.ee ■ Japanese Pop-Culture Festival AniMatsuri 23–25 September www.animatsuri.eu ■ Festival of Archaic Arts “RegiÖÖ” 23–25 September www.tartu.ee/regioo ■ Tartu Rally 23–24 September www.tarturally.eu ■ Researchers’ Night Festival 25–30 September www.teadlasteöö.ee
■ Event and Concert Tickets Tickets to just about any event or concert in Estonia can be purchased on-line at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro. Or, visit one of their central locations at: ■ Piletilevi: Viru Shopping Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2. ■ Ticketpro: Solaris Shopping Centre, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn B2. ■ Piletimaailm (Eesti konsert): Estonia pst 4, Tallinn B2.
getting around
22
TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ JJUULLYY 22001166
Ticket Information
PUBLIC TRANSPORT Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free. Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader. Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee
KOPLI
1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati
Maleva Maleva
Sirbi
Sitsi Lõime Angerja
Madala
KALAMAJA
PÕHJA-TALLINN
The Smartcard or Ühiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet. ee. A €2 deposit is needed to purchase the Smartcard. If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the beginning of each journey.
Ehte Volta
Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5
Trams
Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Balti jaam – Keskuse Balti jaam – Mustamäe
1 2 3 4
Põhja pst
Nisu
Balti jaam Telliskivi
Kadriorg – Kopli Ülemiste– Kopli Kadriorg – Tondi Ülemiste – Tondi
Kolde puiestee
From the driver
4 5
J. Poska
KADRIORG
Mere pst
Ädala
Ristiku Sõle Ülase Taksopark Hipodroom Koskla Välja
Balti jaam Hobujaama L. Koidula 1, 3 Tallinna Htl. Tallinn OLD Viru Ülikool KADRIORG TOWN 1 Htl. Tallinn Paberi 3 Tehnika TõnisEstonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi Keskturg MAJA Vabaduse soni väljak Tõnismägi Majaka AutobussiKoidu jaam Sikupilli Kosmos Lubja Koidu
Kelmiküla
Lille
HAABERSTI
Linnahall Port
Taksopark Koskla
UUS-MAAILM
VEERENNI
ÜLEMISTE
Pae Bus Station
VäikePaala
Majaka põik
E-tickets
Marja Tedre
Airport
KRISTIINE Löwenruh
ÕISMÄE
Linnu tee
Aiandi
TallinnVäike
Sääse
TONDI
Siili
A. H. Tammsaare tee
MUSTAMÄE 1 3 5
MUSTAMÄE Mustamäe
Kaja
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Tondi
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Akadeemia tee KESKUSE Männi Vambola Mustamäe Liivaku Keskuse 9 4 Raja Keemia Ehitajate tee
JÄRVE
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Vineeri
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■ single ticket €1.60 ■ student ticket €0.80 Try to have exact change for the driver. Cards are not accepted. The ticket is valid for one journey only on that specific vehicle. Discounts are only available to ISIC cardholders.
6* From June until September 2016 trams 1 and 2 will not be running due to roadworks. Bus 52 will offer an alternate route between Kopli-Hobujaama.
■ ■ ■ ■ ■
1 hour ticket 1 day (24h) 3 days (72h) 5 days (120h) 30 days
€1.10 €3 €5 €6 €23
Where to buy ■ ■ ■ ■
from the driver from kiosks from post offices online www.pilet.ee (Top up your smartcard with MasterCard or Visa)
TALLINN CITY TOUR PIRITA
Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.
Free ■ preschool children ■ adult travelling with children 3 years and under ■ holders of a validated Tallinn Card
LASNAMÄE KOPLI port
KALAMAJA ROCCA AL MARE
PELGULINN MERIMETSA
OLD TOWN
VEERENNI
KADRIORG
SIKUPILLI
Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets 19€ www.citytour.ee
6-118-000 11-800 (+€0.74 / min)
www.pilet.ee, info@pilet.ee
■ Useful Phrases please.................................................. palun thank you .......................................... aitäh, tänan excuse me ......................................... vabandage hello..................................................... tere, tervist good morning ................................. tere hommikust good day............................................ tere päevast good evening .................................. tere õhtust good night ........................................ head ööd goodbye ............................................ nägemist, head aega all the best......................................... kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.............................. head reisi bon appetite .................................... jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ................... terviseks
How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?
transport
T HE EB BA AL TL ITCI CG GU UI DI DE E™ ™J UJ UL YL Y2 02 10 61 6 TH
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TALLINN
Photo: Margus Johanson
■ Getting to and from Tallinn
www.visitestonia.com Tartu
■ By bus: Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee
■ Phone calls There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.
■ Free WiFi Ye s , t h a t ’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.
■ Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE and EMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h) ■ Taxis
From the bus station to the city: ■ tram no. 2, 4 ■ bus no. 17, no. 23
Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero. ■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists. ■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways. ■ All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night. ■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. ■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid further penalty.
■ By sea: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2
Car Hire You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at Tallinn Airport: ■ Budget – www.budget.ee ■ Europcar – www.europcar.ee ■ Hertz – www.hertz.ee ■ National – www.europcar.ee ■ Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com
There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee. ■ ■ ■ ■
Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee
■ By train: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town
Parking Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.
P
Parking in Tallinn can be confusing. There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots. The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time – placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle. This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.
CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN: 0,375 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fr 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays
DOWNTOWN / SÜDALINN: 1,20 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fi 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays
OLD TOWN / VANALINN: 1,50 / 15 minutes Paid parking around the clock Parking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn. For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parkingin-Tallinn
■ By air: Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K
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26
nightlife
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J U LY 2 0 1 6
Paar Veini achieves the feat of managing to be both a cavernous hideout for secret lovers or old friends.
Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:
Bars & Pubs Clayhills Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town h1
Drink Baar
G-punkt
Nimeta Baar
S
ummer in the city means you’ve got a lot more choice where to go out, and who to go out with, as thousands of tourists pour into Tallinn to catch the rays and enjoy the snatches of sunny weather we have come to expect from Estonia. You’ll be wanting to find the best bars for these occasions, where the nicest people are hanging out. Let’s take a look at a few that should be considered. Sauna Street, which used to be the home of the now late lamented Angel gay club, still holds two great places to spend time on any evening – Frank and Paar Veini. Frank was once considered to be a place where people would begin a night out. This was because alongside an excellent food menu, there was a Paris-style café atmosphere. You could imagine Ernest Hemingway scribbling in a notebook with a glass of whisky, but the modern Hemingway would probably move on to a place with music and dancing after he’d finished penning his opus.
Veini (Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town b2), which continues to be a gem of a place, set in a very old building. Paar Veini achieves the feat of managing to be both a cavernous hideout for secret lovers or old friends, with nooks and crannies
around the back of the bar where people can sit quietly and talk at a reasonable volume, but also a great place for dancing, courtesy of a dance floor on the other side where some adventurous DJs try out sounds on the mostly-young audience. It’s also possible to hire the dancefloor part of Paar Veini for birthdays and other receptions. The wine ranges from cheap carafes of enamel-challenging house wine, which are very good for those getting drunk on a budget, through to expensive French and Italian choices. Which way you go is up to you, but Paar Veini, like a bike shop that also offers beard-trimming and a selection of checked shirts, manages to be all things to all hipsters.
of local and imported craft beer, plus some decent wine, and the service is still spot-on. What has changed is that there is now another Frank, next door, which stays open until the small hours of the morning and serves all manner
Frank has an excellent selection of local and imported craft beer.
X-baar Tatari 1, Tallinn b2
Karaoke
Protest
Gelsomino Karaoke
Mere pst 6a, Tallinn a2
Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town g1
Põrgu
Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar
Rüütli 4, Tallinn Old Town i1
Roseni 13, Tallinn a2
The Highlander
Laif Restoran & Karaoke Club
Kuninga 1, Tallinn Old Town h2
Lai 5, Tallinn Old Town g1
Cigar Lounges
Nightclubs
Chicago 1933
Butterfly Lounge
Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3
Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, Tallinn Old Town h3
La Casa del Habano Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town h1
The Oak Lounge
Café Amigo Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2
Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town h2
Club Baila
Estonian
Club Hollywood
Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town i2
Kochi Ait Tavern Lootsi 10, Tallinn a3
Kolmas Draakon Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town h2
Seiklusjutte Maalt ja Merelt Tartu mnt 44, Tallinn b3
Valli Baar Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town h3
Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2 Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town i2
Club Privé Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town i1
Club Studio Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2
Loung Club Violet Roseni 9, Tallinn a2
Teater Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town j1
Vabank Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town j1
Live Music
Venus
Café Amigo
Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town h3
Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2
Chicago 1933 Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3
Clazz Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town h2
NYC Piano Bar Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town i2
Rock Café Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn c4
Should you wish to take things up a notch, you need only to head two doors downhill from Paar Veini, where you will find Stu-
dio (Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town b2),
Frank (Sauna 2, Tallinn Old Town b2) still has an excellent selection
Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn
Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town i2
Karja Kelder
of wine, beer and spirits to keep even the liveliest crowd entertained. If you haven’t been to the new extension of the Frank brand, it’s definitely one of the best places in the Old Town to continue or even finish a great night, and you could also consider moving from one Frank to another, perhaps having a burger and a few beers in one, then finishing up with a cocktail or two in the new part. While all this is going on, there’s a long-standing alternative next door, in the shape of Paar
Narva mnt. 5, Tallinn a2
Gay
Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town h2
TEXT STUART GARLICK
Cubanita Live Cafe
Hell Hunt Mad Murphy’s
in the City
Pärnu mnt 158g, Tallinn
Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town i2 Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town g2
SUMMER
Tapper
the nightclub where locals go. It’s commonly felt in Tallinn that places like Club Hollywood and Club Prive are for young people, foreigners and tourists, while Vabank and Klubi Teater are aimed more at the well-heeled (in every sense), Lexus-driving, Louboutin-wearing elite. Studio is for the rest of us. Set on two floors, the club has a main room for music with mass appeal, and then upstairs a room where more ”alternative” sounds can be danced-to. The music choice varies depending on the night and DJs, but what is consistent is that you’ll have a good time, in what is mostly a non-threatening
Late Night Dining Istanbul Kebab Estonia pst 7, Tallinn b2
Loca Tatari 1, Tallinn b2
Söögiplats Tatari 1, Tallinn b2
Taco Suur-Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town i2
place to meet new people. Bring friends, though, as most of the clientele is Estonian, and Estonians don’t really do ”talking to new people on a crowded dancefloor”. If you get time, also admire the excellent sound-system, with speakers that project such clear, defined sound, that no matter how loud it is, two people standing next to each other can still hear each other clearly. It’s an example of the attention to detail that makes this club a winner. ■
✏
STUART GARLICK is a journalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn. Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.
22.00-06.00 CLUB VIRGINS
CABARET PROGRAM C Tallinn city Burlesque show Tartu mnt. 29 Shower show www.virgins.ee Adult show Tel. +372 5399 3999
Gentlemen Club
ENTRANCE 10 € COCKTAILS 10 € BEER 4 € COLA 2 €
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