The Baltic Guide ENG July 2017

YOUR LOCAL GUIDE TO ESTONIA Grill test Tallinn’s best burgers The reincarnation of the Balti jaam market An unsettling past KGB prison cells Best views of the city

Sting and other hot summer tickets Nightlife: A speakeasy, pop-ups, and other hidden places to drink

www.balticguide.ee

S U M M E R 2 0 17

Your free guide to Estonia

ENGLISH EDITION

SHOWGIRLS WORLD

LEADING DEPARTMENT STORE IN THE HEART OF TALLINN

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Summer is ďŹ lled with formal evenings, receptions, festivals, and weddings to which you wear elegant hats.

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We offer beautiful and airy hats made from natural materials in every colour to match any outďŹ t.

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editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S U M M E R 2 0 1 7

A new guide You might notice something a little different in this issue. The Baltic Guide in English is now printed quarterly. We are packing even more information and great articles into every issue. In addition to events, we’ve got the latest about the dining scene in Tallinn, along with where to find the best burgers in town. Check out the newly renovated and reopened Balti jaam Market. No matter what you’re after in Tallinn, you’re sure to find it here.

Photo: Sven Tupits

I

f it seems like there are dozens of events happening every week and weekend during summer, it’s because it’s true. It would be fair to say that at any given time there is certainly something going on somewhere in Estonia.

The summer kicks off with the Youth Song & Dance Celebration, followed by the annual Õllesummer (or beer summer), which as the name suggests, offers beer.

Enjoy two great folk music festivals this month as well.

Võru Folk takes place at the beginning of the month and Viljandi Folk wraps up July. Turn to our event calendar for a look at everything that’s happening through to September.

Contents

Happy travels!

Kristina Lupp, Editor-in-chief

restaurants

Summer Top 5

4 best burgers in Tallinn restaurant news 6 Gloria veinikelder Trühvel

01 HAAPSALU YOGA FESTIVAL The annual yoga festival will take place in the idyllic seaside town of Haapsalu from 21-23 July. In addition to workshops and practical lectures, an open-air programme will take place as well. There will be activities for yoga enthusiasts of all levels and special programme for children too.

02 CAFÉ DAYS IN KÄRDLA Every year, this small town on the island of Hiiumaa turns into a village of cafés. From 3-6 August, local residents turn their yards into outdoor cafés and restaurants.

03 BIRGITTA FESTIVAL

this month

Set among the ruins of the Pirita Convent, the annual Birgitta Festival offers a wonderful way to spend an August evening. From 4-13 August, the monastery is turned into a modern opera house for classical opera, ballet, oratorios, contemporary dance and musical comedy. Don’t worry if it rains, the area is covered and an a la carte restaurant is open as well.

9 beauty 11 summer gig guige 12 nightlife 14-15 event calendar 16-17 culture 18-19 best views of Tallinn 20-21 shopping 22 museums 23-26 visitor information and maps

04 NIGHT OF THE ANCIENT BONFIRES All over Estonia, bonfires are lit along the beaches on 26 August.

On the last Saturday in August say goodbye to summer on the night of the ancient bonfires, an Estonian tradition that honours the end of summer, an enchanting end to this enchanting time of year.

05 SAAREMAA FOOD FESTIVAL & STREET PICNIC

Your Comments ■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add – good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

Contact Information

Pick up your free copy at:

Managing Director: Jane Konga Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Contributors: Stuart Garlick Design: Evelin Linholm Photography: Andrei Chertkov Printing House: AS Kroonpress

O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seitse Merd Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee

Sting Photo: Press

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SUMMER 2017

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal, M/L Liverpool Seaways Paldiski-Kapellskär-Paldiski HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Estonian Air Europe-Tallinn routes, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus, Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones,

@ balticguide_en

Photo: Enn Veerpalu

Since 2014, the Saaremaa Food Festival brings the island together to celebrate the best of local food culture during this week-long festival. From 4-9 September, enjoy the best of the island’s cuisine. On 9 September, take part in the Kuressaare Street Picnic, where everyone brings their own picnic basket and sits at a table that reaches almost the length of the main street of the island’s capital.

restaurants

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Outdoor dining at Leib.

Poseidon is serving up burgers that you can actually take a bite out of.

RESTAURANT NEWS TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

It must be summer, because there

are so many new places to check out in Tallinn, we couldn’t even mention them all!

Located in the newly renovated Balti jaam market by the train station, Baojaam (Kopli 1, Tallinn a1) is Tallinn’s first bao bun takeaway. A bao is a steamed bun that is filled with different, flavourful fillings, usually pork. These baos are all made in-house, with your choice of five different fillings.

Venture out of the Old Town to Pärnu mnt to taste the flavours of Africa at Chop Afrik Kitchen (Pärnu mnt 28, Tallinn b2).

Located in the same venue at Café VS, Chop Afrik Kitchen.

While we haven’t had a chance to visit yet, the menu looks intriguing.

Out in Kopli at the new Arsenal Keskus, which opened earlier this year, Poseidon (Erika 14, Tallinn) is serving up burgers that you can actually take a bite out of. While the rest of the city seems to be creating burgers that just get bigger and bigger, Poseidon offers an alternative.

Don’t worry if you want a big one, their Megaburger boasts 4x100g patties!

Try something local Where to taste Estonian cuisine in Tallinn.

Think sauerkraut, mountains of boiled potatoes, large portions of pork, you get the idea. We quite liked the sausage feast.

The capital city is filled with all

kinds of restaurants, offering many different kinds of food.

Sometimes, however, you want to get a taste of local cuisine. Here’s a list of a few places to taste some Estonian-style fare, both modern and traditional.

Liisu Juures Raekoja plats 13, Tallinn Old Town h1

Farm

It doesn’t get more central than a meal at Liisu Juures in the Town Hall Square. Located in a warm and inviting cellar in Tallinn’s Old Town, this is the place to come for good food, and good Estonian hospitality. Here you’ll get a good taste of traditional dishes, like pork roast and herring. Liisu Juures also has a good selection of Estonian beers.

Müürivahe 27B, Tallinn Old Town h3

As different international cuisines arrive in Tallinn, perhaps the one type of restaurant we were missing was a seafood restaurant. The Seafood Bar (Viru 23, Tallinn Old Town h3) serves fish and shellfish in every form you might want - raw, grilled, or baked.

If you’re looking for something a little more local, Mehed Köögis (Pärnu mnt 2, Tallinn b2)

takes its inspiration from Nordic cuisine.

Last but not least, taking over the old location of Francesco Sibio at Solaris, Mintleaf (Estonia pst 9, Tallinn b2) offers Indian cuisine along with a fine selection of gin. ■

Farm brings modern Estonian cuisine to Tallinn. The restaurant’s interior is rustically elegant and the glass-enclosed open kitchen is the centre of attention in the middle of the room. It’s seen great success since its opening, with its head chef competing for Estonia at the Bocuse d’Or 2017 cooking competition. A great place to try some traditional Estonian flavours reinvented.

Through the back, or around the corner on Viru Street, you will also find their bakery, Rukis (Viru 11, Tallinn Old Town h3).

food. The flavours of traditional Estonian food is combined with modern cooking techniques to produce wonderfully flavourful and colourful dishes.

Leib

Kuldse Notsu Kõrts

Uus 31, Tallinn Old Town f3

Dunkri 8, Tallinn Old Town h1

Leib Resto ja Aed is the dream of sommelier Kristjan Peäske and chef Janno Lepik, two friendsturned restaurateurs. Their love for good food and good wine can be seen in the restaurant’s seasonal menus, and the ever-changing wine list. All of Leib’s raw ingredients come from local farms and producers, the majority of which are organic too.

This is the place to come for hearty, traditional Estonian food.

Farm offers modern Estonian cuisine.

Vanaema Juures Rataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn Old Town h1

Located in the heart of Tallinn’s Old Town, this restaurant lives up to its name: At grandmother’s.

Vanaema Juures offers traditional Estonian fare, incorporating local ingredients. Dishes are served up just like granny used to plate them – generously portioned.

Vegetarians will find plenty to choose from as well. ■

Mekk Suur-Karja 17/19, Tallinn Old Town i2

A new seafood bar in Tallinn.

MEKK stands for Moodne Eesti Köögi Kunst, or modern Estonian cuisine in English, and this is an apt description of MEKK’s

It doesn’t get more central than a meal at Liisu Juures in the Town Hall Square.

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restaurants

Homemade burgers at Taps.

Tallinn’s favourite burgers TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Estonia’s capital loves its burgers

and it seems like every month a new burger joint opens up. We asked Tallinn locals where they go to satisfy their burger cravings.

Here is what they told us.

Taps Klooga mnt 7a, Tabasalu

house, as is the mayo, sauce, and ketchup. Uulits is located in Kalamaja at the start of Soo, near the Põhja pst tram stop.

Burger Box Kopli 4, Tallinn a1

Burger Box is certainly one of the favourites here. They have a

While not technically in Tallinn, Taps is worth the drive. This casual little burger place offers a short menu including a grilled prawn sandwich and pulled pork.

We loved the classic and especially liked their brioche buns.

Suur-Karja 11, Tallinn Old Town i2

The popular food truck Linnutee Puhvet opened an indoor location in the Old Town, where they serve their delicious grilled burgers made fresh to order. What’s great about this place, apart from its convenient Old Town location and great food, is the setup. A counter wraps around the open kitchen/bar, so you can sit among the action.

Their veggie burger is quite tasty as well.

Estonian Burger Factory Pärnu mnt 41a, Tallinn b2

EBF was one of the first “gourmet” burger places in Tallinn. The brains and some say the talent behind the popular Vesivärava Grill started EBF back in 2014.

Freshly grilled beef burgers are served on soft homemade buns.

Try some of their sides too, including the fries, which are one of our favourites in the city.

Vabaduse pst 39, Tallinn

Soo 1B/6, Tallinn a1

Everything is prepared in-house at Uulits.

Linnutee Puhvet

Diner

Uulits If you’ve never tried their burgers before, you can expect a juicy larger-than-life burger with fresh homemade toppings. Burgers, salads and fries are all made in-

very short menu, but what they do offer, they do well. Order your burger (we love the classic, but we’ve heard the veggie falafel burger is great too), then go next door to Põhjala’s Speakeasy for a pint. Your order is passed through a tiny hole in the wall between both places.

This tiny takeaway is a cashonly spot.

Gourmet hot dogs at Hotokas.

Just as the name suggests, Diner takes its inspiration from a classic American diner, except this diner serves mostly burgers. We could even go so far as to say they have the most extensive burger menu in Tallinn. If you’re looking for a tiny burger, you won’t find it here. Their regular burgers are mammoth, which makes us wonder what the XXL ones look like.

Hotokas Toompuiestee 16, Tallinn b1

Ok, so it’s not a burger a joint, but we wanted to include it anyway. Hotokas serves hot dogs.

Choose between different kinds of sausages, tons of different toppings and some tasty fries too.

They even have a couple of burgers on the menu too. ■

restaurants

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A cellar for wine lovers wine bar TEXT SILJA HURSKAINEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

If you’re looking for something dif-

ferent from the regular bottles at the shop, then a stop in Gloria Veinikelder is a must.

The wine cellar and restaurant offer customers 700-800 different wines from 25 different countries.

The octopus carpaccio was soft and delicate.

The oldest wine on the rack is from 1939.

“We are a chateau-style wine restaurant. While we don’t grow or press the grapes ourselves, we offer wine degustation, meals, and a shop where you can buy bottles to bring home”, explains Marko Hark, the restaurant’s owner and sommelier.

When you first walk into Gloria Veinikelder, there is a store where you can buy almost anything made from grapes. The oldest bottle on the shelf id from 1939.

Hark says that the wine cellar focuses on smaller, Old World producers.

Next, you will find the cosy restaurant. We tried the octopus carpaccio to start, which was soft and delicate, served with the unlikely combination of truffle cream and marinated apples.

For the main, we tried the duck

breast, which played with pleasantly sweet elements. In addition to the sweet potato, it was also served with red onion and black lentils.

In summer, a small terrace sits in front of the restaurant, where

you can enjoy a small selection of tapas with your wine. ■

Location Gloria Veinikelder, Müürivahe 2, Tallinn Old Town i1

--------------------Appetisers: €9–14 Mains: €14–21 Dessert: €5–8 ---------------------

IIII I IIII I I IIIII I II I II I I

Truffled delight Mediterranean inspiration at Trühvel. mediterranean TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The trendy Telliskivi area is bust-

ling both day and night. Trühvel restaurant is no exception.

It’s lunchtime and the restaurant is packed. We sit down and are not even offered a menu because most customers at this time of

day order from the lunch menu.

Lunch specials are posted weekly on their Facebook page. While the lunch special on that particular day did sound intriguing, we opted to taste a few dishes from the a la carte menu.

The menu starts with a selection of antipasti, which suit a glass of wine on their large outdoor terrace. We start with the goat’s cheese, which is served with pickled rhubarb, basil oil,

and beetroot crisps - a new twist on a classic combination. To follow, the trout fillet cooked at 46C melts on the tongue and the asparagus, potato crisps, and cauliflower cream with horseradish sauce make good accompaniments.

If you come later in the day, after 15:00, you can enjoy something from the grill, or rather the Big Green Egg. Desserts on offer are beloved mediterranean classics like tiramisu. And don’t forget to try the coffee from Brick Coffee Roastery, which share the same space with Trühvel. ■

Location Restoran Trühvel Telliskivi 60n, Tallinn --------------------Appetisers: €6.50–10 Mains: €19–16 Dessert: €4–6 ---------------------

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Enjoy a daily lunch special or order from the a la carte menu.

Great Seafood. Good Mood. It’s Addic ve!

WE SCOUT YOU TASTE THE DIFFERENCE Viru 23, Tallinn

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Many different classical finnish PUB SHOTS (salamari, mansikkaremmi, mustikka, minttusalmari, fisu, mummontossu, omppuremmi, vaarintossu, ässämix, margareetha, suomi 100, leijonapastilli, viidakko, panteri)

Satumaa offers Tallinn’s best

KARAOKE.

We have about 36 We have lish new eng s song .

We are located in the heart of the Old Town on the main street Viru 4 (courtyard)

000 songs in Finnish and English

Watch sports, Finnish TV, and Formula 1 channels.

Downstairs there is a safe nightclub for Finns.

Open Wednesday to Saturday 20:00-06:00 Open Sunday - Tuesday 18.00-02.00 Wednesday to Friday 18.00-04.00 and Saturday 15.00-04.00

Kim +372 54 569 193 Bookings for private events available

Read all about Estonia on your smart phone or tablet!

www.balticguide.ee

+372 6 565 705

www.seafoodbar.ee

ESTONIAN CUISINE IN TALLINN'S OLD TOWN SQUARE

At Liisu’s Lunch or dinner for four: receive a free bottle of sparkling wine Restaurant Liisu Juures Open everyday 10-23, Raekoja plats 13, Old Town, Tallinn tel +372 6 441 983

Welcome!

HAVE YOU TRIED THE BEST WOK IN TOWN?

WOK TO WALK TALLINN: VANA-VIRU 14 Sunday-Thursday 10:00 AM - 11:00 PM Friday-Saturday 10:00 AM - 06:00 PM Pick up service! Tel. +372 444 3320 www.woktowalk.com

THAI ORCHID SPA IS THE CENTRE FOR ASIAN WELLNESS AND HEALTH PHILOSOPHY! Experienced and professional Thai masters offer the possibility to enjoy traditional Thai massage, Thai aroma or oil massage, Thai foot reflexology and luxurious eastern spa treatments.

NEW – The Home of Estonian Handicrafts Eesti Käsitöö Kodu Products from different parts of Estonia.

An exhibition of artisan.

Vene 12/Katariina käik, Tallinn

www.folkart.ee

f of nt

Aia 4 / Vana-Viru 13 Tallinn 10145

% cli 0 2 e th e

+(372) 599 999 88, +(372) 545 223 44

e i joy a fr d w pon n E nd ar ou c sc a i th

info@thaispa.ee www.thaispa.ee Opening Hours: Mo-Sa 09-21, Su 10-21

33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45

Eesti Käsitöö Maja Products from different parts of Estonia.

Gallery of Folk Art Pikk 22, Tallinn Allikamajan Handicrafts Products from different parts of Estonia.

Lühike Jalg 6a, Tallinn

Read articles online:

Sizes 33-45 www.vivianvau.ee Mon-Fri 11-19 Sat 12-17 Su -

Kuninga 1, Tallinn

Tel. +372 641 6440

Semi-precious stone paradise Puolijalokivien paratiisi at Vabaduse Square Vapauden aukiolla!

Choose from our wide variety of stones and pearls and make the jewellery of your dreams.

You will find pearls, semi-precious stones, agates, Swarovski crystals, glass pearls, Czech Preciosa seed pearls, silver clasps and pieces (silver concentration 925) and much more!

We also sell yarn, embroidery floss, and art supplies.

Open Monday - Friday 11-19, Saturday 12-15 www.mh24.ee

The store is located in Vabaduse Square tunnel.

My Hobby handicraft store, Vabaduse väljak 9 (entrance through the underground tunnel)

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beauty

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S U M M E R 2 0 1 7

A little bit of Thailand in the Old Town Thai Orchid Spa is a warm inviting oasis in the city centre.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Walking into Thai Orchid Spa, you

are immediately greeted by a friendly receptionist. Leave your shoes and coat at the door, step into some cosy slippers and sit back and relax.

Thai Orchid Spa has been in business for over eight years and specialises in traditional Thai massage. Their masseurs are from Thailand and have been professionally trained in their field.

Traditional Thai massage is different from regular massage. You wear loose-fitting clothing and you sit with the masseuse on a mat. She then moves your body into various positions, stretching and moving problem areas. Think of it like yoga, except someone else is doing the movements for you.

I opted to try the Thai oil massage to relax and recharge tired bones. This is a full body massage, where the masseuse starts on the back, working down the legs to the feet and then back up

Relax and recharge with a Thai oil massage.

to the arms, shoulders and chest.

The massage is intense, as the masseuse works deep into the tissue. As the massage nears to an end, she has me sit up and moves my body into various poses for further stretching. The one-hour massage was relaxing, yet invigorating. I could feel my body loosen as she worked through my tight muscles.

In addition to Thai massage, Thai Orchid Spa also offers cosmetic services like facials that

can be combined into a spa package as well. Couples are welcome and can enjoy a romantic massage while lying side by side. You can also sign up for a client card, after which you’ll be eligible for a discounted rate on all procedures. ■

Location Thai Orchid Spa Aia 4 / Vana-Viru 13, Tallinn Old Town h3

A day at the salon Krislin Liiva talks about what sets Tiia Ilusalong apart from the rest.

TEXT AS TOLD TO KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

I finished my training at CIDESCO,

which was Estonia’s first private cosmetics school and have now been working as a beautician for four years. I love my work.

At Tiia Ilusalong we offer many different treatments and procedures like facials, depilation, massage, pedicures, manicures, and body care. I also perform all of these procedures. Our salon differs from the rest, as we offer curative pedicures and body sugaring, which are the most popular procedures in summertime. A curative pedicure is different from a regular pedicure because it helps fix various foot problems like ingrown nails, nail and foot fungus, corns, warts, heel cracks, etc.

Nail fungus is a very common

problem these days and often people don’t realise they have fungus before the problem has taken over the entire nail. The

faster you seek help for the fungus, the easier it is to take control of. Here’s how we can help: first we file and clean the nail.

Our salon has the unique Fox laser, which cures nail fungus.

A treatment consists of four visits over two to two and half months. The laser heats up the nail to the point where it kills the fungus. You can help the healing process at home by reducing your sugar and white flour intake, as these foods feed the fungus.

Hygiene is also important. You should disinfect your feet and shoes. If you visit a spa or a public pool, then you should certainly wear sandals. You can also use a curative polish during this time. Foot fungus is much easier to treat. You can use anti-fungal creams on your feet, make sure you dry your feet properly, change your towels often and wash all socks and sheets in at least 60C water.

Depilation is also popular in sum-

mer and at Tiia Ilusalong we use Alexandria body sugar, which is easy on the skin. It is one of the world’s cleanest and most allergen-free depilation sugars. Our salon offers the sugar waxing ball method, which is very hygienic. We use clean gloves and apply the wax in the same direction as the hair grows. This helps prevent the hair from breaking, as well as ingrown hairs. Hair also grows back more slowly.

Tiia Ilusalong differs from other nail care salons because they don’t cover up the problem, they fix it. The salon has been operating since 1997, and long running business and regular clients (both international and local) are proof of the quality service Tiia Ilusalong provides. ■

Don't cover up the problem, fix it.

Location Tiia Ilusalong Estonia pst 1/3, Tallinn Located on the third floor of the MELON Shopping Centre.

events

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Sting - 57th and 9th Tour 29 September, Saku Suurhall

Sting’s “show of a lifetime” comes to Tallinn.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTO PRESS

After sold-out concerts all around

the world, Sting’s 57th & 9th World Tour is taking the world by storm with rave reviews from fans and critics alike.

On the 57th & 9th Tour, Sting will be joined by his longtime guitarist, Dominic Miller, Josh Freese (drums) and Rufus Miller (guitar) with special guest Joe Sumner, as well as accordion player, Percy Cardona, who regu-

larly performs with The Last Bandoleros.

Sting’s twelfth solo studio album, 57th & 9th was released last November. The album shows the diversity of Sting’s musical and songwriting styles from the

first single, “I Can’t Stop Thinking About You” to “Petrol Head” and “50,000.”

Get your tickets fast, this gig is certainly one not to be missed.

■

Location Sting - 57th and 9th Tour 29 September, Saku Suurhall Tickets available from Piletilevi.

events

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Summer Gig Guide 2017 TEXT STUART GARLICK, PHOTO SILVER TÕNISSON

There are many reasons to be excit-

ed about the schedule of concerts and performances around Estonia this summer. That’s because the biggest local stars are all out on summer tours, along with a smattering of international names to make your calendar sing.

Eurovision is still taken as seriously as ever by Estonia - and with good reason, because this year Koit Toome and Laura made up a duet dream team that might not have stunned the public in Kiev, but did pick up plaudits for their song, ‘Verona’, based around the Shakespeare play Romeo and Juliet. Now, Koit and Laura are touring the nation with their Verona tour, taking in Kuressaare, Palmse Manor, Tartu, Viimsi, Kadriorg Park in Tallinn, and many other venues of all sizes, between 10 and 30 July.

Koit Toome is a busy man, because as well as his tour with Laura, the Estonian singing star is on his own solo tribute to 1970s and ‘80s rock icon Jaak Joala, Suveöö or Summer Nights.

Beginning in June, Toome’s tour takes him to all four corners of Estonia, ending at Alatskivi Castle on 24 August.

Should your Eurovision musical tastes be more retro, there’s another chance to see the ubiquitous Dave Benton, the Aruba native having settled in Estonia in the 1990s, forming a one-off partnership with the young Tanel Padar in 2001 that brought Estonia, and the world, ‘Everybody’, the song that won Eurovision, took the hearts of many, and encouraged us all to roll the carpet from the floor.

Benton regularly hosts a Christmas show, but for those keen to get some summer entertainment with this national treasure, he’s on tour

with his Parimad Laulud (Favourite Songs) from 1-11 August.

Sticking with the loose Eurovision theme, Lenna Kuurmaa was once part of Vanilla Ninja, the epochal Estonian girl band that still has the best-selling ice cream in Estonia as official merchandise and in spite of all members being Estonian, represented Switzerland at Eurovision. Lenna, having released ‘Slingshot’ for Eesti Laul 2017 (the Eurovision selection contest), is now gearing up for what we all hope will be a new album soon. Lenna, who has one of the sweetest voices in Estonian pop, is backed up by the supergroup Estonian Voices, featuring, among a cast that gives classic songs an a capella twist, the excellent jazz vocalist Kadri Voorand. Catch Lenna and Estonian voices from 2-10 July.

Liisi Koikson is another icon of recent Estonian music who is

Trad.Attack! are one of the most feted and critically-acclaimed bands in Estonia.

doing something brand new, in her case, the new album ‘Coffee for One’, which is a departure from her previous work, which was mostly in the smooth jazz category, into more pop-oriented territory, as evidenced by recent single ‘Procrastination Queen’. It’s a sign of the increased confidence Koikson feels in her craft having studied in London at the Tech Music School - and for visitors to Tartu for Muusikasuvi, on 3 August, there’s a chance to sample Koikson’s new sound.

Jaan Tätte was described by author Justin Petrone as being “Estonia’s version of a Renaissance man,” and the folk legend with the booming bass voice is back on the road again, as he is every summer, this time with long-time collaborator Jaan Pehk, a big man with the voice of an angel. The two are a great team and tickets are sure to sell out, so book early to avoid

disappointment. They play various venues from 20 July to 3 August.

Trad.Attack! are one of the most feted and critically-acclaimed bands in Estonia, and have been an international success story thanks to the three band members’ globetrotting philosophy, which has seen the folk-electro trio win friends and fans in China recently, among many territories. The band takes archive samples of folk chants and turns them into something mystic, dreamlike, but still danceable, quite a gift in itself, but they’ve also shown themselves not to be onetrick ponies with their new album ‘Kullakarva’ (Shimmer Gold), which is a musical step on from the easilymemorable power chords of their first album. Catch Trad.Attack! on 26 August, when they close their short Estonian tour in Treski. ■ All tickets for these concerts can be purchased on Piletilevi.

nightlife

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On selected nights, Sveta Baar comes to life with games night, pub quizzes, and live DJs.

Nightlife: Pop-Up Passions TEXT STUART GARLICK, PHOTOS SVETA BAAR, ANDREI CHERTKOV

T

he nightlife of Tallinn, for foreigners and tourists, can seem to be dominated by the big beasts that are the major nightclubs, and the Old Town bars we all know and love. But that’s not necessarily right. There are an increasing number of bars and clubs in pop-up and temporary venues, or in places converted from one purpose to another. If you look hard enough, nightlife can ALWAYS be interesting. Let’s take a look at the best in Tallinn.

We’ve mentioned Speakeasy (Kopli 4), the little box-bar run

by Põhjala Brewery, a few times in this article already, but it’s worth celebrating, because it’s back, at least for the summer, and possibly into the autumn depending on demand. The bar had closed except for private parties due to the profusion of construction work all around, but with Kalamaja once again an attractive place to stroll, it means Speakeasy again gets strong passing trade, and Põhjala a place for testing its newest brews.

There have been plenty of good nights in Speakeasy, and though it seems like what it is - a basic prefab nightspot - there are

Speakeasy is open again!

myriad reasons for spending part of your night there. For starters, as mentioned, you get to try out the full range from Põhjala Brewery, everything from the smooth, considered Uus Maailm to the inky Öö, which will send you into the night with a bang.

You’ll find a diverse mix of people there, from the hipsters of Kalamaja lore to day-trippers and couchsurfers looking for a new thrill. If you’re feeling peckish, no problem - just order a burger and kimchi fries through the hole

in the wall, and Burger Box, next door, will oblige.

Kalamaja isn’t exactly the wild frontier it used to be, though. Now there are two major supermarkets competing for attention within 200 metres, and you even have to pay an admission fee to the Telliskivi Food Fair. What about if you want to experience the hipster side of Tallinn from before Kalamaja went gentrified? Take a walk further up the tram line, towards Kopli, once the home of feverish activity in the Soviet shipyards, and still the

home of a sizeable maritime workforce. On the edge of Kopli, before you start seeing the slightly scarylooking dive bars, there’s a real oasis of calm - Kopli Restaurant, formerly Kamahouse, which lies next door to the behemoth former Standard paper factory.

On selected nights, the bar adjacent to Kopli Restaurant, Sveta Baar (Kopli 25), comes to life. There are games nights, a popular quiz night, live DJs, and the nicest barstaff in the whole of Tallinn - ask for Gerda! Sveta Baar makes the best

possible use of an unconventional space, in the L-shaped complex that houses Kopli Restaurant, through which you can walk to get to Sveta Baar. Although the two places are separate entities, they work superbly together, and you’ll feel perfectly at home as soon as you step into the reclaimed industrial building.

Telliskivi continues to throw up surprises, even though it’s seven or eight years since cafes and bars began sprouting up there, an epoch in Tallinn time.

Next to the disused railway line that runs up to the active part of Balti Jaam or Baltic Station, from which those shiny orange trains run every day, there’s a little bit of history. It’s called Peatus (Telliskivi 62), or stop, and in old railway cars that were once pulled by the engines that used to go to Moscow or Leningrad, you will now find chilled people celebrating to a fluid stream of music from a great DJ. It’s the perfect way to round off a night on the town. ■

✏

STUART GARLICK is a journalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn.

Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.

Read all about Estonia on your smart phone or tablet! www.balticguide.ee

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11.-13.8. Viru Folk Festival, Käsmu

events

Summer Event Calendar

2017 6-9.7. Medieval Days, Tallinn

JULY 30.6.-7.7.

5-8.7

Photo: Joogafestival

21.-23.7. Yoga Festival, Haapsalu

15.-16.7. American Beauty Car Show, Haapsalu

World Championships for Racing, Tartu Õllesummer Music Festival, Tallinn

5.-9.7.

Haapsalu Old Music Festival, Haapsalu

5.-9.7.

Võru Folklore Festival, Võru

6-9.7.

Medieval Days, Tallinn

6.-11.7.

Glasperlenspiel Music Festival, Tartu

7.-9.7.

Hanseatic Days, Tartu

3.-16.7.

Pärnu Film Festival, Pärnu

15.-16.7.

American Beauty Car Show, Haapsalu

15.-18.7.

Tallinn Maritime Days

21.-23.7.

Yoga Festival, Haapsalu

28.-29.7.

Rock in Haapsalu, Haapsalu

14.-22.7.

Saaremaa Opera Days

27.-30.7.

Viljandi Folk Music Festival

events

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AUGUST Love Film Festival, Tartu

11.-13.8.

Viru Folk Festival, Käsmu

3.-6.8

Café Days, Kärdla

11.-13.8.

Historical Festival “Narva Battle”, Narva

3.-5.8.

Weekend Festival Baltic, Pärnu

11.-13.8.

White Lady Festival, Haapsalu

4.-5.8.

August Blues, Haapsalu

11.-12.8.

Opinion Festival (Arvamusfestival), Paide

4.-5.8.

Leigh Lake Music Festival, Valgamaa

12.-13.8.

Hauka Fair, Antsla

4.-13.8.

Birgitta Festival, Ruins of the Pirita Convent, Tallinn

12.8.

Street festival “August Insomnia”. Night of the Arts, Pärnu

18.-20.8

Kiviõli Moto Festival, Kiviõli

26.8.

Night of the Ancient Bonfires, all over Estonia

10.-17.8.

Pärnu Music Festival Järvi Academy, Pärnu

26-27.8.

Onion and Fish Festival, Lüübnitsa, Põlvamaa

10.-12.8.

Kuressaare Maritime Days, Kuressaare

24.-26.8.

Aparaaditehas Block Festival, Tartu

7.-13.8.

SEPTEMBER 2.9.

Tartu Autumn Exhibition. Pedigree Animals, Estonian Agricultural Museumm, Ülenurme

2.-3.9.

Estonian National Opera Theatre Market, Estonia National Opera

4.-10.9.

Saaremaa Food Festival, Kuressaare, Saaremaa

05.-9.9.

Estonian Theatre Festival Draama, Tartu, Various Locations

08.-9.9.

Plant Fair of Pärnu, Pärnu, Vallikääru aas

08.-10.9.

SEB Tallinn Marathon, Tallinn

08.-9.9.

Karksi Honey Festival, Karksi-Nuia

9.9.

Maarjalaat 2017 in Tartu, Tartu

9.9.

Kuressaare Street Picnic

16.9.

20.-24.9.

Buffet day on Onion Road, Alatskivi Matsalu Nature Film Festival, Haapsalu, Lihula

23.-24.9.

Japanese Pop-Culture Festival AniMatsuri, Hugo Treffneri Gümnaasium, Tartu

24.-29.9.

Researchers’ Night Festival, Tartu, Throughout Estonia

24.9.

20th Tartu Rattamaraton (Tartu Cycling Marathon, 89/40 km), Tehvandi Sports Centre Stadium, Otepää linn

30.9.

Türi Apple Festival, Türi

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culture

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Summer’s best beach party Weekend Festival Baltic brings electronica and thousands of people to Pärnu.

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS GEOFFREY HUBBEL

The third annual Weekend Festival Baltic is already a much-antici-

pated event. On the first weekend in August, fans from Latvia, Lithuania and even Poland will flood Estonia’s summer capital.

Many tickets were already sold in spring.

Jyri Keikkinen from RL Concert recommends buying your tickets ahead of time, because Weekend Festival Baltic sells out every year. They are anticipating about 30,000 visitors this year.

Part of the festival’s popularity is thanks to Pärnu itself. “Pärnu is fantastic at organising festivals, the atmosphere also adds to its popularity. You can get there from Helsinki, Tallinn, and Riga in a couple of hours”, he explains.

Weekend Festival Baltic anticipates about 30,000 visitors this year.

“ Weekend Festival has received a lot of praise from both visitors and performers”, Keikkinen adds.

This year, you can look forward to some big names like The Chainsmokers, Armin Van Buuren, Alesso, Clean Bandit, Deadmau5 and Marin Garrix.

“The selection of artists has also changed more from EDM to pop music. We always want to improve and keep up with the times”, explains Heikkinen. The festival also has many different food options, as well as many different programmes. ■

Location Weekend Festival Baltic, 3.-5.8, Pärnu beach.

Summer folk TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV, VIRU FOLK

Viru Folk takes place every year

at the beginning of August in Käsmu, which is located about 80 km from Tallinn.

Viru Folk is has become one of the most popular folk music festivals in the Baltics. This year’s theme celebrates Finland’s 100 year anniversary.

You can see electrical stage performances, and troll metal.

Troll metal is performed by the Finnish band Finntroll.

The accordion virtuoso Kimmo Pohjonen will take to the main stage with daughters Inka and Saada. Their ensemble’s name is Kimmo Pohjonen Skin. Among Estonia's biggest folk names are Untsakad

and Pantokraator. Concerts are organised on many stages, as well as in Käsmu church.

In addition to the many different kinds of concerts, the will also be films in the Käsmu Rahvamaja. KÄFF (Käsmu Film and Photo Programme) will take you on a journey through the stories of the Nordic Islands.

You can get to Käsmu by bus from Tallinn and Rakvere. Võsu, located about 6 km from Käsmu is where you will find the nearest store and ATM. ■

Viru Folk is has become one of the most popular folk music festivals in the Baltics.

Location Viru folk 11.-13.8, Käsmu, Lääne- Virumaa.

For more information: www.virufolk.ee

This year’s theme celebrates Finland’s 100 year anniversary.

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culture

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Maritime Days in Tallinn gramme on at Noblessner, with an open-house day in the new apartment blocks, as well as a concert.

TEKSTI ARJA KORHONEN, PHOTOS SVEN TUPITS

T

allinn’s port will be filled with stunning sailboats when The Tall Ships Races regatta makes a stop in town on its way to Turku. The most noteworthy of them all is the four-masted barque, the world’s largest traditional sailboat still in use, which is used as a training ship.

From the water you can see mysterious flying ships and the Flying Phantom catamaran.

The Maritime Days got its start 10 years ago when the city of Tallinn and the Port of Tallinn joined forces with the Maritime museum. The festival has become one of summer’s most interesting events.

This year’s maritime days will take place over four days and divided over five ports between Pirita and Kakumäe. You can get to the sea from each one.

The festival’s unoffical opening is at Pirita on 14 July, where they will have fireworks and the popular Regatt band.

The main event areas are between A and D terminals at the Old Town guest harbour, Old City Marina, and Seaplane Harbour. On stage you will see top Estonian pop artists, young bands, the Pärnu City Orchestra, a street circus, and the St. Petersburg Jazz Orchestra. On Sunday, the nighttime song festival will take place when the first of the large ships begin to arrive.

Vikings and robots

Forest festival at the beach At Noblessner, a little bit west of the Seaplane Harbour, is where you’ll find a new cultural centre in the making. The old port buildings are being refurbished and

new houses are being built by the water’s edge.

Noblessner will open a private docking area on 15 July for one day only, where invited guests from the Intsikurmu festival in Põlva will come.

The Intsikurmu festival is known as a sort of travelling hipster forest festival. The beachside picnic starts at 12.00 and finishes at 1 am. Cyclists from the Tour d’ÖÖ will join in the evening.

There is a different pro-

Tallinn Maritime Days 15.-18.7 Location: Vanasadam, Seaplane Harbour, Pirita, Noblessner and Haven (Kakumäe) Recommended: ■ 15.7 Intsikurmu @ Noblessner ■ 16.7 Nighttime Song Festival at the Seaplane Harbour @ 22.00 ■ 17.7 Tall Ships Races boats, Vanasadam and Seaplane Harbour Full programme: www. talliinamerepäevad.ee There are plenty of children's activities.

The Maritime Days are first and foremost a family-friendly event and there is something for children to do at every port. There is a separate children’s play area at the Vanasadam and Seaplane Harbour. The Vikings at the Seaplane Harbour are truly fun for children, where they can master sword fighting, make fairytale jewellery, learn to shoot a bow and arrow or throw axes. The vikings will organised shows and there is a catapult and viking ship on site too.

The newest part of the Maritime Days is the innovation area at Vanasadam, where boat technology and underwater archeology will be on display. Those who wish can build a robot in the workshop or learn about simulators and swim in virtual reality.

Haven port is open at Kakumäe and will be taking part in the festivities for the first time this year with a sporty weekend. You can play beach football and volleyball, different Speed Races, and watch catamaran demonstrations.

Children have their own activities with boat trips and a pop up sailing school by Meresõber.

A naval show will be organised at Kakumäe, where helicopters, lifeboats and the Estonian Navy will take part.

Most of the events are free, except for ship and helicopter rides. ■

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sightseeiing

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S U M M E R 2 0 1 7

Best Views of Tallinn With warm weather and sunny days just around the corner, it’s time to explore Tallinn from above and see it from a different angle.

MEALS WITH A VIEW

HOTEL VIRU & KGB MUSEUM

Not every view in Tallinn involves a long climb to the top. Some places have elevators, like Horisont Restaurant & Bar, located on the top floor of the Swissotel (Tornimäe 3, Tallinn b2) and the rooftop terrace at Radisson Blu Sky Hotel (Rävala pst 3, Tallinn b2).

A little bit further along the coast towards Viimsi, you can stop in NOA (Ranna tee 3, Tallinn), one of the city’s top restaurants, for a beautiful view across the bay.

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn a2

VIIMSI OPEN AIR MUSEUM

TALLINN TOWN HALL TOWER

Muuseumi tee 1, Pringi

Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Located on the coast in Pringi, just past Viimsi, not only does this open air museum offer a glimpse into the everyday life of coastal folk, it also gives you a view of the city from the other side of the bay.

Tallinn’s Town Hall is the only intact Gothic town hall in Northern Europe. In July and August it’s open as a museum and from June to August, climb the 64-metre tower for some spectacular views of Tallinn, right in the heart of the Old Town.

A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the 23rd floor of the Sokos Hotel Viru. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests. The museum is only accessible by guided tour.

sightseeiing

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S U M M E R 2 0 1 7

19 ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE Area: 45,227 km2.

Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000.

Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country.

Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are nonreligious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.

Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County.

Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu.

Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

A quick history of the city of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).

1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League.

1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town.

1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish.

1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn.

1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital.

1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn.

TV TOWER Kloostrimetsa tee 58a, Tallinn

Tallinn’s TV tower, standing at 314 metres is Estonia’s tallest building. Head up to the 170 metre viewing platform for an interactive exhibition or “walk on the edge” of the tower, if you dare!

ST OLAF’S CHURCH

1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics.

1991 Tallinn becomes the capital of newlyindependent Estonia. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town f2

Once the tallest building in the world (from 15491625), the 124-metre tower of the church can be climbed from April to October. If you can make it to the top, the view of the Old Town is certainly worth the climb.

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

TOURIST INFORMATION Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoja plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva

■ Central Post Offices Postimaja Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2.

Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1.

Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3.

Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

■ Currency Exchange Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

TOOMPEA HILL VIEWING PLATFORMS AT KOHTUOTSA, PATKULI & PIISKOPI The upper area of the Old Town, or Toompea as it’s called has a few hidden viewing platforms. Piiskopi aed or Bishop’s Garden is located on the west side of the hill and overlooks Kalamaja and Pelgulinn. In the 18th and 19th centuries it served as the garden’s for the Dome Church. The east corner of Toompea or Kohtuotsa platform is probably one of the most photographed areas of the Old Town, from where you can see the Old Town with a backdrop of the modern city. The north side of the hill or Patkuli platform offers the best view of the Town Wall and towers, St Olav’s Church and the harbour. After you're done up there, walk down the winding staircase to Schnelli Park below.

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns.

Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

Holidays PIRITA Pirita tee 1, Tallinn a4

One of the most picturesque strolls in Tallinn is along the 2km paved pathway that stretches from Kadriorg to Pirita along the seaside. Enjoy a beautiful view of the Tallinn skyline and watch the ships come in and out.

1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day;

20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

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shopping

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S U M M E R 2 0 1 7

A new market in Tallinn The market beside the Balti jaam trains station reopened its doors in May. TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

If you remember the old market,

you’ll remember that the Balti Jaama Turg was quite a unique place to visit. It all seemed a little dirty, run-down, but at the same time, had its own character and charm. The old sellers have now returned to new rooms. The fish and meat halls have “lost” their familiar smell. The messy workstations have disappeared. All that is in the past. The renovations brought new clean rooms for what is now Estonia’s most modern market hall. Outside, there are market stalls where you can buy vegetables and berries.

There are lots of other additions to the market. There is a new Selver supermarket, cafes and restaurants together with a large terrace, a large natural foods store, a vintage store, fitness centre, and antiques.

On the second floor you can find the antiques, as well as clothing and handicrafts. The first floor is where you will find the

A little bit of history The official name of Tallinn’s train station dates back to the 19th century.

In 1870, the Paldiski-Tallinn-St. Petersburg rail line was opened, otherwise known as the Baltic rail line. The main building of the train station was built out of limestone, but it was destroyed by the red army in 1941. The building that stands there now was built in 1966.

food, with a dairy and meat hall, as well as fish hall.

The huge outdoor terrace is a wonderful place to spend a summer afternoon, or try some interesting food in the street food section of the market.

For those that miss the Soviet nostalgia of the old market, you can still step back in time at the Depoo Market next door. ■

Location Balti Jaama Turg, Kopli 1, Tallinn a1

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shopping

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Swedish style TEXT SILJA HURSKAINEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

A decorating business is much

more than a trade. Homeart, at Telliskivi in Tallinn is a good example of this.

“We know our customer’s lifestyle,” describes Kairit Potisepp, owner of Homeart, which also houses a cafe within its shop, something that adds to the unique cosy atmosphere in the store.

The style in Homeart is carefully thought out. Potisepp, who lived and worked in Sweden longed for Scandinavian style. Most of the products from Homeart are from the west side of the bay. You won’t find much plastic here. The shelves are stocked with lots of wood, glass and the now, very trendy concrete.

Potisepp wanted to create a movement that would allow for

interior decoration on a decent budget. “Our prices are not the lowest, but we're certainly not exclusive either. We want to show that even with small amounts of money you can create a nice and comfortable interior”.

■

Location Homeart, Telliskivi 60a, Tallinn a1

My Hobby has everything you need to get started with beading and making your own jewellery.

Seamless blending of styles and materials at Homeart.

Bottlescouts hunt for the best drink

New hobbies at My Hobby Step back from the computer and create something beautiful.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Husband and wife owners Andrei and Kristina Ušakov believe in TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTO BOTTLESCOUTS

Do you know which wine pairs

well with shellfish? Or chocolate?

If you want to find the best wine pairing for your food, then you should ask someone who knows. There are thousands of different kinds of wine in the world and the specialists at Bottlescouts can help make your selection easier.

The scouts at Bottlescouts search, research, and pair your food with the best wine. The result, an easy-to-read list that will open your palate. Prices are average, but even experienced wine collectors will find a suitable bottle. Wine can be ordered online and delivered to your home or picked up in their shop.

You can also visit their shop to peruse the selection.

Bottlescouts specialists Pekka Terävä, Petra Anttila, Petri Lukkarinen and Kim Mollis.

Bottlescouts are profiled to produce experiences for gastronomy enthusiasts. A strong contribution is made by the background of the Olo Group, with Pekka Terävä one of Finland’s most valued cooks, who

can help pair wines with seasonal dishes as well. ■

Location Bottlescouts, Lootsi 14-2, Tallinn A3

finding yourself in real life, not in a virtual one. My Hobby is just the shop for anyone looking to find a hands-on hobby and to step away from the computer for a moment.

My Hobby offers modern hobbies for adults, especially those who spend their behind behind a computer. “When you get home, why not create something. Who knows where a new hobby can lead”, explains Andrei.

My Hobby has everything you need to get started with beading and making your own jewelry, a hobby that is already very popular throughout Europe. Make your own bracelets, necklaces, or earrings from sterling silver pieces, and add any number of colour combinations with their huge selection

of semi-precious stone beads.

Stones are available unpolished or polished, coloured or natural.

Kristina can help you choose what’s right for you. A string of beads will starts anywhere from 5-10 and goes all the way up to 160, which is for a string of charoite. Beads are also sold individually.

A starter kit with all the tools

you need will cost you around 50, says Andrei. “You may start making jewellery for fun, but soon it could become a small business, as there are plenty of opportunities to sell your creations at local handicraft fairs”, says Andrei encouragingly. Step into My Hobby to find your new hobby.

Location My Hobby, Vabaduse väljak 9, Tallinn Old Town j1 Located in the underpass

22

museum

CLASSIC

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ S U M M E R 2 0 1 7

M O D ER N

Visit three art museums in Kadriorg with one ticket!

Kumu Art Museum, Kadriorg Art Museum and Mikkel Museum

Adults 12 € | Family ticket* 24 € *up to two adults with children (up to the age of 18) kunstimuuseum.ekm.ee

Insight into the life in Estonia during three occupations (1940-1991)

Terrifying KGB prison cells will open to the public TEXT SILJA HURSKAINEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

P Present this ad to get the audio guide for just 1€ Temporary Exhibitions Guided Tours upon prior reservation

MUSEUM OF OCCUPATIONS Toompea 8, Tallinn Open 10.00 - 18.00 Phone: +372 668 0250 muuseum@okupatsioon.ee www.okupatsioon.ee

agari 1, in Tallinn’s Old Town looks unsuspecting from the outside, but you won’t believe what happened here behind closed doors.

Behind the six-paned window are 8.5 m2 cells, where interrogations took place during the Soviet period. At its worst, there were up to 18 people held in one cell, waiting to be interrogated, which generally happened overnight.

Pagari 1 was the KGB headquarters. To those who lived in Estonia during the Soviet

Pagari 1 looks unsuspecting from the outside.

There could be up to 18 people in one cell at a time. period, this building brings back particularly gloomy memories.

Tallinn’s Museum of Occupations will open the Pagari cellars to the public in mid-July.

“We want to show everyone how totalitarian systems work”, explains Sander Jürisson, the exhibition’s manager from the Museum of Occupations.

Together with Tallinn’s Patarei Prison, Pagari Street was where the horror began. Some went straight to prison from Pagari, which Jürisson referred to as a sanatorium. It goes to show the great fear people felt towards Pagari Street, as Patarei prison was no vacation either.

Six cells and one 4 m2 Karzer room, remind us of a time that in fact, was not that long ago. ■

Location KGB Prison Cells, Pagari 1 (entrance from Pikk and Pagari intersection), Tallinn Old Town f2. The cellars will be opened to the public by the end of July 2017.

getting around

TH BA SU TH E EB A L TL ITCI CG G UU I DI D E E™ ™S U MM MM E RE R2 02 10 71 7

23 Ticket Information

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free.

Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader.

Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#tallinna-linn/map/en

KOPLI

1, 2 Kopli Sepa Marati

Maleva Sirbi

Sitsi Angerja

Madala

KALAMAJA

PÕHJA-TALLINN Volta

Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5

Põhja pst Balti jaam

Trams

Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Balti jaam – Keskuse Balti jaam – Mustamäe

1 2 3 4

Telliskivi

Kadriorg – Kopli Suur-Paala – Kopli Kadriorg – Tondi Ülemiste jaam – Tondi

4

Kanuti 5

Balti jaam

J. Poska Mere pst

Kelmiküla Ristiku Lille Ülase Taksopark Hipodroom

HAABERSTI

Koskla Välja

Taksopark Koskla

Linnahall Port

Hobujaama

Htl. Tallinn OLD Viru TOWN 1 Htl. Tallinn 3 Tehnika TõnisEstonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi MAJA Vabaduse soni väljak Tõnismägi Koidu Kosmos Koidu

UUS-MAAILM

Tallinna Ülikool

L. Koidula

KADRIORG 1, 3

VEERENNI

Keskturg Autobussijaam Lubja Bus Station

NB!

Tedre

KRISTIINE Löwenruh

Linnu tee

Aiandi

TallinnVäike

Sääse

TONDI

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A. H. Tammsaare tee

1 3 5 Mustamäe

Kaja

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MUSTAMÄE

MUSTAMÄE

Lepistiku

Akadeemia tee KESKUSE Männi Vambola Mustamäe Liivaku Keskuse 4 Raja Keemia Ehitajate tee

SUURPAALA

Majaka Sikupilli

VäikePae Paala

Majaka põik 4 Ülemiste jaam

ÜLEMISTE JAAM

Marja

ÕISMÄE

KADRIORG

Paberi

Vineeri

Tihase

The Smartcard or Ühiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet. ee. A €2 deposit is needed to purchase the Smartcard.

If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the beginning of each journey.

More information: www.visittallinn.ee/visitor/plan/getting-around/ public-transport.

JÄRVE

TALLINN CITY TOUR

Airport

The last stop on the Ülemiste line (no. 2) is Suur-Paala. On the other end, the last stop is Baltijaam.

Line no. 4 ends at Ülemiste jaam.

The tram does not go further than Baltijaam. Tram line construction will end in autumn when the no. 1 line resumes service.

NB! In summer, tram no. 2 will not be running from 26 June - 31 August, due to construction.

■ Single-ride ticket from driver: €2 ■ 24-hour: €3 ■ 72-hour: €5 ■ 5-day: €6

2 SuurPaala

■ 30-day: €23

Who can ride for free: ■ Registered residents of Tallinn ■ Tallinn Card holders ■ Unaccompanied children under 6 ■ Children under 3 with one accompanying adult

PIRITA

Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus.

Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages.

Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24 and 48 hrs on three different lines.

LASNAMÄE

KOPLI port

KALAMAJA ROCCA AL MARE

PELGULINN MERIMETSA

OLD TOWN

VEERENNI

KADRIORG

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square.

Tickets: adults: €19/24hr, €23/48hr www.citytour.ee

6-118-000 11-800 (+€0.74 / min)

www.pilet.ee, info@pilet.ee

■ Useful Phrases please.................................................. palun thank you .......................................... aitäh, tänan excuse me ......................................... vabandage hello..................................................... tere, tervist good morning ................................. tere hommikust good day............................................ tere päevast good evening .................................. tere õhtust good night ........................................ head ööd goodbye ............................................ nägemist, head aega all the best......................................... kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.............................. head reisi bon appetite .................................... jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ................... terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab?

Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on…

What is this?......................................... mis see on?

What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab?

How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate?

How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on?

I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

24

transport

I DE E ™™ S SUUMMMME ER R 2 20 01 17 7 T THHE E B BA AL LT TI CI C GGUUI D

TALLINN

Photo: Margus Johanson

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

■ By bus: Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Bussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

■ Phone calls There are no city codes in Estonia.

Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372.

Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

■ Free WiFi Ye s , t h a t ’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

■ Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE and EMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h) ■ Taxis

From the bus station to the city: ■ tram no. 2, 4 ■ bus no. 17, no. 23

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero.

■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists.

■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways.

■ All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night.

■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged.

■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid further penalty.

■ By sea: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

Car Hire You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at Tallinn Airport: ■ Budget – www.budget.ee ■ Europcar – www.europcar.ee ■ Hertz – www.hertz.ee ■ National – www.europcar.ee ■ Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee.

■ ■ ■ ■

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

■ By train: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.elron.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station tion to the city: tram ram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

Parking

P

DOWNTOWN / SÜDALINN: 1,20 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fi 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays ys

OLD TOWN / VANALINN: 1,50 / 15 minutes Paid parking around the clock Parking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn.

CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN: 0,375 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fr 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parkingin-Tallinn

■ By air: Nordica - Estonia's newest airline, replacing Estonian Air currently serves many routes in Europe and Scandinavia in cooperation with Adria Airways. +372 664 2200 info@nagroup.ee, www.nordica.ee Open 5.00-21.00, Sa 5.00-16.00

Photo: Nordic Aviation Group

Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tulika Takso, Tallink Takso and Tulika Business. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

Parking in Tallinn can be confusing. There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots.

The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time – placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle.

This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.

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