The Baltic Guide ENG May 2016

M A Y 2 0 16

Estonian Ice Cream Visit the Zoo New Restaurants in Tallinn

Summer Travel Guide Nightlife: Live Music Venues

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3

editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M AY 2 0 1 6

The Great Estonian Road Trip

A

ll winter long we try to tell you that Estonia is beautiful any time of year, but between you and me, summer is the best, especially as the days grow longer, sunny days outnumber rainy days, and the streets of Tallinn’s Old Town fill up with more and more visitors. One sure sign of summer are the outdoor terraces that open in April and May. April brought us great weather and we were able to enjoy the sunshine early. It’s great to see the city coming to life! The real sign of summer is The Baltic Guide’s summer travel special that you will find in the middle of this paper.

We cover all the must-see sights of Estonia, from east to west, north to south. New this year, we’ve scoped out the top five restaurants for you to try in each part of the country, so not only will you know what to see, what to do, but now, where to eat as well. Not sure where to go? Plan a road trip around one of the season’s many festivals happening throughout Estonia. From culture to food to music to art, there is something for everyone! Happy travels!

Contents

Kristina Lupp Editor-in-chief

3 Editorial

May Highlights

restaurants re 4 Restaurants: Haku Restaurant News Babulja Satay

01 QUEEN’S HITS ROCK THE SONG FESTIVAL GROUNDS

Photo: Live Nation Baltics

The legendary Queen will perform together with Adam Lambert at the Tallinn Song festival Grounds on 5 July. This will be the biggest outdoor concert of the year as the grounds can fit up to 75,000 people. Tickets are available from Piletilevi starting at €59.

02 HANSEATIC TIMES COME BACK TO LIFE The known medieval trading town Viljandi will go back to its roots for the annual Hanseatic Days taking place from 3-5 June. Enjoy music, handicrafts, and bargaining at the market.

shopping 6 shopping 8-9 summer event calendar 10 nightlife 12 beauty 13-19 summer travel special 22 museum 23 transport 24-25 visitor information and maps

RäimeWest brings the seaside town of Lao in Pärnu County to life on 14 May. The Baltic Herring smokers attract people from all over. During the day, visitors can try different Baltic Herring dishes and learn about the fishing culture.

04 TALLINN BICYCLE WEEK The annual bicycle week (2-5 June) attracts locals and tourists. The main event is a ride through Tallinn where several thousands cyclists take part. More info: www.tbw.ee

05 WOMEN’S SPORT PARTY Photo: Kristi Jahilo

The annual women’s SEB Maijooks or May Run will take place 21 May and bring together thousands of energetic women at Tallinn’s Song Festival Grounds where the 7km starts. You can part by running, walking, or Nordic walking. The day finishes with a concert at the Song Festival Grounds.

Your Comments ■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

Contact Information

Pick up your free copy at:

Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Contributors: Stuart Garlick Design: Evelin Linholm Photography: Andrei Chertkov Printing House: AS Kroonpress

O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seitse Merd Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee

Photo: Andrei Chertkov Model: Alina Keller Makeup: Kaia Triisa (Karaja) Style: Ženja Fokin Clothes: Marmara Sterling, Liina Stein, Cortefiel Thanks to: Restoran Babulja

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M AY 2 0 1 6

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal, M/L Liverpool Seaways Paldiski-Kapellskär-Paldiski HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Estonian Air Europe-Tallinn routes, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus, Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones,

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03 BALTIC HERRING MARKET

restaurants

4 RESTAURANT NEWS The extensive road works on Viru Street have disrupted the flow of traffic on the popular Old Town main street, as well as restaurant business. Restaurants are open, but terraces have not yet been assembled, for obvious reasons. The roadworks should finish by the end of November. Last year, restaurant Mais opened in Kuressaare and it has received much praise. The kitchen keeps Slow Food in mind. You can also enjoy reasonably priced lunch specials on weekdays. Kohvik Mesilatern is the second café to sell Anneli Viik handmade chocolates in the Old Town. You can enjoy sweet treats in the new café, as well as browse handmade candles. The Monk, opened earlier this year has been preparing Indian and Chinese dishes in the Old Town. Their international cooks ensure flavourful dishes. Prices are reasonable. Daily specials cost 3.90. The Korean restaurant Gotsu is open weekdays from 12.00-20.00, and while the menu is short, it offers a good assortment of dishes. Definitely try the kimchi and the chili fried chicken. The restaurant is located in the basement level of an apartment building near the Vineeri bus stop. ■

A Fresh Cut Babulja is not your ordinary Russian restaurant. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

From the street, Babulja looks little

more than a small café, but upon entering, you realise there is an immense dining room upstairs. Opened earlier this spring, Babulja is already popular among locals looking for a hearty and casual meal. The atmosphere is casual as well, with friendly and chatty servers eager to talk about the food and make suggestions, especially when it comes to their signature cocktails. While there isn't white linen on the tables, there is still a touch of elegance in the etched wine glasses and shiny cutlery. While tourists may see Babulja as

another Russian restaurant, the concept here is different. It’s a steakhouse with Russian hospitality. But let’s start at the appetisers. Three types of roe are served with

the buttermilk blini. The thick and fluffy pancake is almost not enough to go with the generous portions of roe. I tried the housemade lamb and beef dumplings served in broth, though after finishing, the waitress said the salmon dumplings in broth are even better. We will have to go back for another visit. Now for the steak: anyone that

has visited or spent any time in Estonia knows that it’s difficult to come across a good steak, and a good steak that doesn’t cost a fortune. Babulja offers you both. The 250g entrecote is juicy on the inside, crisp with grill marks on the outside, and included in the 20 cost is one side and your choice of sauce. You won’t go wrong with any of them. We finished the meal with the chocolate fondant, served warm with

Babulja is a steakhouse with Russian hospitality.

a gooey, chocolatey centre, and d a scoop of vanilla ice cream and d local cranberries. ■

Location Babulja Restoran Pärnu mnt 2, Tallinn a1

--------------------Appetisers: €5 –€ 15 Mains: €10–€20 Dessert: €5–€10 ---------------------

IIII I IIII I I IIIII I II I II I I

The Importance of Tradition Haku restaurant brings authentic Japanese cuisine to Tallinn.

Location

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Restaurant Mais, Tolli 7, Kuressaare, Saaremaa Mesilatern, Vana-Posti 2/ Harju tn 3. Tallinn Old Town i1 The Monk, Nunne 7, Tallinn Old Town g1 Gotsu, Pärnu mnt 62 A, Tallinn c1

Located in an outbuilding for the

summer manor house Gloy, Haku Japanese restaurant opened this spring. Shuichi and Marju Shiraishi run the restaurant together, with Shuichi in the kitchen and Marju in the front of house. On a warm spring evening we are greeted by Shuichi and Marju as we enter Haku. The dining room is lit by the setting sun and the seat by the window looks out over a small garden. Despite the location on busy Narva mnt, the house is set back from the street and noise is minimal. imal. Japanese music plays in the he background.

the tongue. And the soy sauce is house-brewed. Of the warm appetisers we decided to try the crispy chicken and the stuffed chicken wings. The former is delicate and crispy, served with ginger-garlic soy sauce and a lemon wedge. The chicken wings are rich and flavourful, stuffed with minced pork, and quite filling. For the main course, we share the Unagi Don or grilled eel in a sweet soy marinade. It’s served over a bed of steamed rice. Marju brings us a little bit of extra sauce as well, which is certainly not wasted.

Shuichi began his cooking career at

a young age, working in traditional Japanese restaurants while finishing school. He has a rich culinary background, having worked as the head chef at the Japanese Embassies in both Fiji and Russia. He has also worked in many top international restaurants, including the Michelin starred restaurant Bulgari in Tokyo. Shuichi has extensive catering experience as well, having catered to Hollywood stars in Australia. Haku is the kind of restaurant that leaves you feeling happy after a great meal. It also makes you want to com come back and try more items off th the menu. ■

Location

The menu is short, offer-

Kohvik Mesilatern is the second café to sell Anneli Viik handmade chocolates in the Old Town.

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M AY 2 0 1 6

Haku,, Narva Na mnt 55a, Tallinn a4

ing a selection of hot and cold appetisers,, the chef 's choice of sushi and sashimi, main dishes, and dessert. Wee start with a selection of sashimi. The fish is expertly sliced and of excellent xcellent quality. The salmon n melts on

--------------------Appetisers: €3–€17 Mains: €9.80–€25 Dessert: €4.80–€14 ---------------------

IIII I IIII I I IIIII I II I II I I

Chef's choice of sashimi

Nepalese born chef Parsuram Bhandari runs the kitchen.

Satay For those that love Thai food, a stop at Satay restaurant while in Tallinn is a must. The menu is inspired by Thai and Tibetan cuisine, which Nepalese born chef Parsuram Bhandari prepares. Choose a few dishes from the menu to share. We liked pork ribs and crispy W aubergine. Of the main courses au we really enjoyed the pad thai w aand sweet and sour chicken, though there were so many th things that sounded good on th the menu that we’ll definitely th be back for more. ■ b

HAVE YOU TRIED THE BEST WOK IN TOWN?

WOK TO WALK TALLINN: VANA-VIRU 14 Sunday-Thursday 10:00 AM - 11:00 PM Friday-Saturday 10:00 AM - 06:00 PM Pick up service! Tel. +372 444 3320 www.woktowalk.com

If you are after good food, top quality wine, and friendly service in a cosy atmosphere, SPOT is just the place for you. In our restaurant you will find more than 200 champagnes and they can all be enjoyed alongside delicacies from our a la carte menu. Stop in for a great meal! We are always happy to have you. Restoran SPOT, Vene 4, 10123, Tallinn, Estonia phone:+372 600 4977; e-mail: spot@restoranspot.ee www.restoranspot.ee

6

shopping

Spotlight: Foorum Shopping Centre

■ Department

Stores Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. b3 The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store. Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. b2 This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

■ Central Shopping

Centres

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2 Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques. Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2 The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2 This modern shopping centre in the Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Free bus from the port. This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world. Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja). A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants. Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65. Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn. Magistrali Keskus, Sõpruse puiestee 201/203, Tallinn

■ Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. a3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoe stores.

Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2 One of Tallinn’s newer shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket. Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2. This modern shopping centre houses top name designer stores, great cafés and restaurants, as well as a large bookstore.

■ A bit further out Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57. This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. a3 The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops.

Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port. A modern mall just outside of the city centre. Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3. A shopping centre in the west end of the city.

High fashion, gourmet cuisine, beauty, and more! TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Foorum is one of the most stylish

shopping centres in Tallinn. The golden interior shines from end to end. Its “shopping street” is lined with beautiful boutiques, ready for you to browse. Foorum is the ideal meeting place because of its central location and there is no shortage of good places to have a bite or enjoy a drink. What’s new? The florist Decoration & Fleur is a lovely addition to the centre. Freshly cut flowers and little gifts line the shelves, and the florists have many years of experience in the business. If you’re looking for unique flower arrangements, or just a simple bouquet, stop in and have a look. While we can’t list everything in the shopping centre, here’s a look at some of the highlights. For women’s fashion, shops like the French brand Morgan offer stylish women’s clothing at reasonable

Forum's golden interior shines from end to end.

prices. You will find Danish designs at S’NOB and natural materials used in Replay’s seasonal fashion. Find underwear for the whole family at Millenia and tights, stockings, leggings and more at Sokisahtel. Children’s wear can be found at the Swedish store Polarn O. Pyret.

The whole of Foorum is scented by the fresh handmade cosmetics at Lush. Enjoy a range of beauty treatments at Thaya Shop & Salon. Kangas & Noop is the largest fabric store in central Tallinn, where you can get inspired for a little DIY. The smells of freshly baked pastries come from Bonaparte Bistro. Later in the day, have a drink and a meal at St. Patrick pub or enjoy live music and good food at Cubanita. If you walk through the shopping street to the other side of Foorum you’ll find Vapiano for freshly prepared Italian food on the go, as well as the well known American takeaway Subway. ■

Location Narva mnt 5, Tallinn OPEN: Mo-Sa 10.00-20.00, Su 10.00-19.00

Arts & Crafts are good for the soul My Hobby offers a break for the digital life. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV

Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. a3 A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more. SadaMarket, Kai 5. a2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

■ Food Markets as a store for everything you might need for your sauna.

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M AY 2 0 1 6

Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. a1 Closed for renovations. Open in the interim at Telliskivi 62. Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. b3 Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. a2 Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a. Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a. Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8. Sadama Turg – Sadama 25. a2

Husband and wife owners Andrei and Kristina Ušakov believe in finding yourself in real life, not in a virtual one. My Hobby is just the shop for anyone looking to find a handson hobby and to step away from the computer for a moment. “Constant attachment to the screen has become such a problem these days. Just look at kids today who spend so much time on smartphones and tablets, and so do their parents. In China, they already have a treatment problem to help people deal with virtual addiction”, explains Andrei. “This can of course all be done without hospitals and psychiatrists. We believe that the best way to find yourself is through hobbies and handicrafts”. At My Hobby there is for example a huge selection of the very popular colouring book series for adults, which is great for reducing stress and taking some

My Hobby follows all the latest trends and are always bringing in new items.

time out to relax during the day. Kids can enjoy it too, but they might also enjoy: paper mache, batik, painting, designing, making models and carving, as well as embroidery, or jjewellery-making. And this is just a small part of what you will find in the shop. “We’re following all the latest trends and we are always bringing in new and interesting items”, explains Andrei.

Step away from the screen and pop into My Hobby to take a look, get inspired and start your next creative project or discover a new hobby. ■

Location Vabaduse väljak 9, Tallinn Old Town j1 Located in the underpass

34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45 W

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Rataskaevu 2, Tallinn

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NEW - The Home of Estonian Handicrafts Eesti Käsitöö Kodu Products from different parts of Estonia. An exhibition of artisan. Vene 12/Katariina käik, Tallinn

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Eesti Käsitöö Maja Products from different parts of Estonia. Gallery of Folk Art Pikk 22, Tallinn

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Allikamajan Handicrafts Products from different parts of Estonia. Lühike Jalg 6a, Tallinn

Tallinn Old Town Medieval Days 7-10 July 2016

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8

summer eve

Markets, Sea and Culture There is no shortage of summer events in Estonia. Here’s a look at some of the highlights from our calendar. TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS?

This year in Estonia is known as the

year of maritime culture. The full programme of events can be found at www.merekultuur.ee. The Year of Maritime Culture aims to raise awareness of Estonian maritime history and traditions. Sõbralaat also supports the old Estonian and Finnish-based commercial ties, which takes place in July in the town of Kunda. Estonian folk music is gaining popularity. Its performers have created new songs to enchant audiences. Be sure to catch Curly Strings, who have risen in popularity. They won multiple Estonian

Music Awards in 2015.. Folk festivals are held all over the country, starting with the largest one, Vilja-

tect against the wind, and the roof from rain. This year, the festival is dedicated to the memory of artistic director Eri Klas, who passed away earlier this year. Birgitta Festival is one of the major events of the summer in Estonia. This year will include Moz-

ndi Folk Music Festival.

One of the last summer folk festivals will be held in the beautiful town of Käsmu, about 90 km east of Tallinn and is organised by Viru Folk. This year’s theme is the Nordic Islands. The music of Iceland, Scotland, Åland and Gotland will be heard along with Estonian music on the second weekend in August. The week-long Birgitta Festival takes place in August in Tallinn, in the ruins of Pirita monastery. The old monastery turns into a theatre for ballet and opera, the walls pro-

art’s Cosi fan tutte, the flamenco ballet Carmen by Bizet, Tchaikovsky’s Eugene Onegin, and Prokofiev’s Romeo and Juliet ballet.

Every weekend there are fairs from May to September and more information can be found on www. laadakalender.ee. Antique collectors can find old items and gardeners can find new accessories. ■

Curly Strings

This year is the year of maritime culture in Estonia.

Exciting events are taking place all summer long.

TARTU SUMMER EVENTS 2016 ■ Estonian Aviation Days 4–5 June www.lennundusmuuseum.ee

■ 10th Tartu Love Film Festival“tARTuFF” 1–6 August www.tartuff.ee

■ International Night of Churches in Tartu 10 June www.kirikuteoo.ee

■ Emajõgi River Festival 5–6 August www.tartu.ee/emajoefestival

■ Wow Run

18 June www.wowrun.ee ■ Tartu City Day 29 June www.tartu.ee/linnapaev ■ Pop Choir Party 2 July www.popkooripidu.ee ■ Festival “Glasperlenspiel” 7–12 July www.erpmusic.com ■ Tartu Mill Triathlon 8–10 July www.tartutriatlon.ee

Tallinn Maritime Days take place 15-17 July.

■ The Food Festival 13 August www.ettevotlus.tartu.ee ■ Urban Festival UIT 17–20 August www.uit.ee ■ Garlic Festival 20 August www.küüslaugufestival.ee ■ Street Art Festival “Stencibility” 5–11 September www.stencibility.eu ■ Estonian Theatre Festival Draama 5–11 September www.draama.ee

■ Hanseatic Days 9–10 July www.hansapaevad.ee

■ Japanese Pop-Culture Festival AniMatsuri 23–25 September www.animatsuri.eu

■ Auto24 Rally Estonia 2016 15–17 July www.rallyestonia.ee

■ Festival of Archaic Arts “RegiÖÖ” 23–25 September www.tartu.ee/regioo

■ Vanemuine Symphony Orchestra Summer Concert 31 July www.vanemuine.ee

■ Tartu Rally 23–24 September www.tarturally.eu ■ Researchers’ Night Festival 25–30 September www.teadlasteöö.ee

ent calendar

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 6

SUMMER EVENT CALENDAR 2016 MAY 13-14 14 20-22 21 27-29 28

Kuressaare Garden and Flower Fair, Kuressaare Museum Night, over 150 museums taking part Türi Flower Fair, Türi SEB Maijooks, the biggest women’s running event, Tallinn Barokksepis, smith’s festival, Narva Võrukate Uma pido, Põlva

JUNE 1-5 2-5 2-9 3-4 4-5 4-5 17-23 16-19 23 28

Tallinn Old Town Days, Tallinn Tallinn Treff Theatre Festival, Tallinn Beautiful Concerts in Käsmu (Kaunid kontserdid Käsmus), Käsmu Italian Wine Festival, Haapsalu Line Dancing Festival, Pärnu Viljandi Hanseatic Days, Viljandi Suure-Jaani Music Festival, Suure-Jaani Sõru Jazz, Sõru Port, Hiiumaa Avinurme Barrel Fair, Avinurme 3 July Juu jääb, Muhu

JULY 1-3 1-2 6-9 6-10 6-9 6-10 7-10 7-12 8-10 9-10 9-10 11-17 11-24 15-17 15-17 15-17 23-24 25-31 28-31 28-31

Hanseatic Days, Pärnu Hard Rock Laager, Vana-Vigala Õllesummer, Tallinn Haapsalu Early Music Festival, Haapsalu Baltoscandal Theatre Festival, Rakvere Võru Folk, Võru Medieval Days, Tallinn Glass Bead Days, Tartu Ceramics Days, Narva Hanseatic Days, Tartu Friendship Fair (Sõbralaat), Kunda Pärnu Music Days, Pärnu Pärnu Film Festival, Pärnu American Beauty Car Show, Haapsalu Tallinn Maritime Days, Tallinn auto24 Rally Estonia, Otepää Yoga Festival, Haapsalu Saaremaa Opera Days, Kuressaare Viljandi Folk Music Festival, Viljandi Jõgevatreff, Jõgeva

AUGUST 1-6 Love Film Festival, Tartu 4-7 Weekend Festival Baltic, Pärnu 5-6 Augustibluus Blues Festival, Haapsalu 5-7 Leigo Moto Festival, Kiviõli 5-7 War History Festival, Valga 6 Seto Kingdom Day, Valga 11-13 Kuressaare Maritime Days, Kuressaare 12-14 Viru Folk Festival, Käsmu 13-21 Birgitta Festival, Pirita Convent Ruins, Tallinn 13-14 Narva History Festival “Battle of Narva”, Narva 13-14 Hauka Fair, Antsla 13 August Insomnia - Night of Pärnu Arts, Pärnu 19-21 White Lady Days, Haapsalu 21 Tartu In-line Skating Marathon, Tartu 27 Night of the Ancient Bonfires, all over Estonia FOOD EVENTS & FESTIVALS 14-15 May Dandelion Flower Festival and Räimewest, Pärnu 28 May Garfish Festival, Hiiumaa 10-11 June Grillfest - Good Food Festival, Pärnu 11-12 June Telliskivi Street Food Festival, Tallinn 26 July Coastal Folk Festival and Fish Market, Viimsi 4-7 August Café Days, Kärdla 20 August Tahkuranna Pickle Festival, Tahkuranna 20 August Garlic Festival, Ülenurme 27 August Lüübnitsa Onion and Fish Fair, Lüübnitsa 27-28 August “Summer in a jar” Preserves Festival, Narva Castle

La Muu are constantly introducing new flavours.

I Scream, You Scream, We all Scream for Ice Cream! Cool off with some great local ice cream. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

You may have already heard of it, but La Muu has now been pleasing the palates of locals since 2012. La Muu uses local and natural ingredients in all their products. They make different sorbets and ice creams and are constantly introducing new flavours. You can find La Muu in most grocery stores now, but you can also visit them in their café in Viru Keskus. Recently opened, Il Cortile has had almost instant success with their traditional Italian gelato. Made fresh daily, Il Cortile is Italian owned. We’ve been told the lemon gelato is a must-try. ■

Il Cortile is a muststop for Italian gelato in the Old Town.

Location La Muu Kohvik Viru Keskus 3rd floor (inside Rahva Raamat bookstore), Tallinn b2.

Il Cortile Lühike jalg 4, Tallinn Old Town i1

9

10

nightlife

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M AY 2 0 1 6

Chicago is loved by locals and visitors.

Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

Bars & Pubs Clayhills Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town h1

LIVE MUSIC

Pärnu mnt 158g, Tallinn

Cubanita Live Cafe Narva mnt. 5, Tallinn a2

Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Gay

Hell Hunt

G-punkt

Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town g2

Mad Murphy’s Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

Nimeta Baar

Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn

X-baar Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town i2

Karaoke

Protest

Gelsomino Karaoke

Mere pst 6a, Tallinn a2

Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town g1

Põrgu

Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar

Rüütli 4, Tallinn Old Town i1

Roseni 13, Tallinn a2

The Highlander

Laif Restoran & Karaoke Club

Kuninga 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Lai 5, Tallinn Old Town g1

TEXT STUART GARLICK

Cigar Lounges

Nightclubs

W

Chicago 1933

Butterfly Lounge

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3

Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, Tallinn Old Town h3

in Tallinn

Clazz (Vana-Turg 2, Tallinn Old Town h2) is the classic live music venue that most people know about. Situated in the middle of the old town, it attracts everyone from well-heeled locals to tourists wanting a good time in a comfortable place. The food continues to be excellent, as does the live music provision.

Under previous ownership, the Brazilian nights on a Tuesday night were the stuff of legend, with truly the most joyous music you’d find anywhere on the Baltics, and some fine dancing from the members of the public who went there. If you can dance samba, salsa or any other Latin form, you’ll find that the tradition of great dance nights endures to this day at Clazz, and even if you have two left feet like me, you can just move around and have a great time. There’s usually a different artist every night, and you’re likely to see one of the stars of Estonian music on stage whenever you go. Sometimes, an internationallyfamous figure from the world of jazz, such as bass legend Amp Fiddler, will play a gig there. After a shaky start after going into administration and reopening with new owners, Clazz is rebuilding its reputation, is almost as good as

La Casa del Habano Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town h1

Põrgu Photo: Clazz

ith the summer approaching, we all need different forms of entertainment. Tallinn has shown in the past month, with Tallinn Music Week, that it can host a great festival, as if there was any doubt about that, but the live music continues throughout the year. We take a look at three of the best and coolest nights out if you like to listen and dance, maybe even at the same time.

Excellent food and fabulous music keep people coming back to Clazz.

The Oak Lounge

Estonian

Club Hollywood

Karja Kelder Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Kochi Ait Tavern Lootsi 10, Tallinn a3

Seiklusjutte Maalt ja Merelt

There’s another great live music venue in the Old Town, and although it shares a lot of the ambiance of Clazz, it invites you to go to Chicago for your evening on the town – Chicago 1933 (Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3). When you enter, you feel transported to another place, with hardwood and dark colours all around bringing a feeling of a place where fun, chatter and intrigue can happen. Although the interior can be a bit on the dark side for some, we’d invite you to stay a while and sample the excellent music and cocktails, while lounging on the spacious leather chairs or hitting the dance floor. Chicago is loved by locals and weekend visitors

alike, and some time in there will show why. Chicago also attracts some of the most proficient local musicians, with the songs to make the night swing. There’s a difference between Clazz and Chicago, and that’s in the service on offer. In Clazz, perhaps due to the smaller space to cover, the waiters and waitresses always seem to have everything sussed. At least on the occasions I’ve been there, a hallmark of Clazz has been unhurried and ordered service, usually with a smile. Everyone seems to have been through a staff training programme of the scale of a marine exercise, and overall it’s incredibly impressive. In Chicago, especially on a crowded Saturday night, you can wait a long time to be served at your table, or you can take your

Rock Café is a "proper" rock venue.

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Club Baila

Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

it used to be, and you should give it a try for yourself.

Café Amigo

Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town h2

Kolmas Draakon

Photo: Kaur Ilves

Photo: Stina Kase

Drink Baar

Tapper

Tartu mnt 44, Tallinn b3

Valli Baar Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2 Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Club Privé Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town i1

Club Studio Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Loung Club Violet Roseni 9, Tallinn a2

Teater Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town j1

Vabank Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town j1

Live Music

Venus

Café Amigo

Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Chicago 1933 Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3

Clazz Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

NYC Piano Bar Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Rock Café Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn c4

chances at the round bar in the centre of the room, which leaves too few bar staff covering far too many customer eyeballs. Add that to the sprawling real-estate the staff need to cover, and it’s perhaps clear why they often look stressed or overworked. That said, the quality of the music, and the bar’s decor, swing it for me, and Chicago is a comfortable and entertaining night out. If your idea of live music is something a little less rarefied, with beers to hand rather than cocktails, you need to catch the Ülemiste tram, or take the tenminute taxi ride, to Rock Cafe (Tartu Mnt 80D, Tallinn). This famous and storied venue is set in the cavernous Zelluloos complex near the airport. Go in and it’s abun-

Late Night Dining Istanbul Kebab Estonia pst 7, Tallinn b2

Loca Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Söögiplats Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Taco Express Suur-Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town i2

dantly clear you’re in a “proper” rock venue - but that’s a strength of the place. No table service here; it’s a good old-fashioned bar service, and this is one of the places, like the Old Town’s Von Krahl Bar (Rataskaevu 10, Tallinn Old Town h1), where you can go and hear raucous bands while jumping and headbanging. Check the bill and see who’s on here - whether you like pop, rock or metal, you won’t be disappointed by a night at Rock Cafe. ■

✏

STUART GARLICK is a journalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn. Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.

Mexican Restaurant and Bar ANCHO Real Mexican food and drink Open Su-Th 12-23, Fri, Sat 12-02 Address: Müürivahe 17, Tallinn Old Town Telephone: 6600498 www.ancho.ee

Offering tasty thick crust American-style pizza since 1995.

THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD We are located at Müürivahe 2, Tallinn Opening hours: Su-We 11:30-21:30, Th-Sa 11:30-22:30 Tel: +372 644 8837

Read articles online:

www.balticguide.ee www balticguide ee

Viru 22, Tallinn, ph. +372 661 5518, www.steak.ee Eteläranta 14, Helsinki, ph. + 358 (0)504198000, www.steak.fi

12

beauty

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M AY 2 0 1 6

Specialised Skin Care Find the right treatment for your skin type at i3 Viru Ilusalong. ommends the Soin Dermatologie treatment for sensitive skin. Essentially, this treatment helps reduce redness. All the products used are free from preservatives. They help stimulate microcirculation and strengthen capillary walls.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Everyone is different and skin type

is no exception. It’s important to take care of your skin, no matter the time of year. The Baltic Guide went to visit i3 Viru Ilusalong to try the new line of specialised skin care from Maria Galland. The atmosphere is warm and inviting at i3 Viru Ilusalong. Service is friendly and professional. All of the cosmeticians know their trade and can answer any questions you may have. I lie down on the chair and Kati, my cosmetician, asks me about my skin. I explain that it’s a bit dry, but also oily in the t-zone. Kati also remarks that my skin is a bit red. She immediately rec-

While the masks sets enjoy a relaxing massage.

The treatment starts with cleansing and exfoliation. Then, the first clay mask is applied, which stays on for about eight minutes. The mask is then rehydrated and removed. A serum is applied to the face that works with second mask and then the second mask is applied. While the mask set, I was given a relaxing, yet deep massage of the shoulders and chest, then the massage moved to the pressure points of the face.

The second mask has some rubber in it, so once it’s dried and ready to be removed, it’s simply peeled off. To finish, moisturiser is applied. After the treatment, my skin was

clear, with no signs of redness at all. Skin was soft and looked refreshed, though the best part was indeed the massage. The one-hour Soin Dermatologie treatment for sensitive skin costs 75. ■

Location i3 Viru Ilusalong Sokos Hotel Viru 3rd floor (entrance through the hotel) Viru väljak 4, Tallinn a2

Mesothreads Explained Imagine younger, tighter looking skin, without plastic surgery. The mesothread treatment at Kaidrino Ilusalong, offers just this. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV, KAIDRINO ILUSALONG

The Baltic Guide met with Aino Oja, at Kaidrino Ilusalong, who is quickly becoming one of the top cosmetologists of the mesothread treatment in Estonia. With an extensive background in medicine and cosmetics, having studied in both Estonia and Finland, Oja has been learning from the top specialists in the field like Julia Kudrjavtseva in Estonia, as well as others from Finland, France, and Russia. What are mesothreads exactly? Mesothreads are biodegradable and antiallergic. They’re a sur-

gical thread with microscopic notches. The thread is placed in the lower layer of the skin and is then pulled to tighten the skin in the area. The number of threads used on the skin depends on the person. Does the procedure hurt? Mesothreads are inserted with local anesthesia and the procedure last 30-60 minutes. While it’s not painful, patients can feel some discomfort. However, after the procedure, you can return to your regular daily activities. Are the results visible right away? How long do they last?

Mesothreads are inserted with local anesthesia.

It usually takes about two months for the full results to be seen, but then the effects last up to two years, when the threads dissolve. You can maintain the face tone in the long term with a combined treatment of hyaluronic fillers and mesotherapy. Who can b enefit from mesothreads? Ideal candidates for the mesothread procedure are men or women, ages 35 - 60 with no excessive skin on the face and neck. It’s meant for people that want the effects of a facelift, but without the surgery. It’s ideal for lifting the forehead region, rais-

Before and After

ing cheekbones, correcting wrinkles around the nose and lips, tightening extra skin on the jaw and neck. Excessive skin must first be melted otherwise it will be too heavy for the threads to lift. Are there any side effects? After a procedure skin will be slightly swollen and some bruising may occur at the points of entry. It takes about two weeks to completely recover, so avoid vigorous sports and i sleep on your back, because any extra pressure on the face can be painful. The quality of the threads is also important, because cheap

threads can break, which in turn can cause bruising. Kairdrino Ilusalong is centrally located in Tallinn. Make an appointment by calling Aino Oja directly 372 510 6194 or book online at www.kaidrino. ee. Book a consultation to discuss the right treatment options for you, where Aino will talk about the procedure in more detail. ■

Location Kaidrino Ilusalong Narva mnt 7d, Tallinn a2, 5th floor (Entrance at side of building opposite the main entrance to Park Inn).

Skin is visibly tighter and lifted.

Estonian Summer 2016 Travel tips and information for any type of holiday

An Infinite Sea

E

stonia is ready for summer. This year, Estonia has been named the year of maritime culture. The sea has brought people together and has shaped relations over the centuries. There is no shortage of events taking place this summer. Visit fascinating historical and modern sites. Though Estonia is small in size, each region is different, boasting a unique cultural heritage. Everyone will certainly find something of interest here. â–

KOHTLA-JÄRVE

14 Northern Estonia

PALDISKI

NARVA TALLINN JÕHVi

RAKVERE

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M AY 2 0 1 6

MUSTVEE

Top 5 Northern Estonia

Untouched Nature TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS CARL SARAP, MIKKO SAVIKKO, KRISTINA ERNITS, VLADIMIR SURMIN, EAS

You can familiarise yourself with the nort-

01 NARVA BOARDWALK The popular kilometer long walk runs along the border bridge. Access the promenade through the restored Victoria bastion casemates.

02 KOHTLA MINING MUSEUM In the renovated museum, one can see the start of mining in Estonia. Learn about the fascinating history of mining. It is hard to believe that in 2001, women still separated the rocks by hand and some 25 tons a day!

hern part of Estonia in many different ways. Raplamaa has the Toosikannu Zoo and in Kohtla-Nõmme at Adrenaator visitors can go off-roading in this mining area or paddle the channels in old quarries. In Ida-Virumaa, nature and the human environment are very different. The landscape has been influenced by industry and wars. The region still has genuine, preserved forests, marshes, and lake regions, as well as renewed mining around the area. Over the last few years travelling has grown, so one should take some time to visit the area and get to know it. If you have not been to the area before, you should start from Narva, which has a beautiful new beach boardwalk. Kuremäe monastery and Narva-Jõesuu’s waterfront are the main travel destinations in Ida-Virumaa. ■ Northern Estonia is rich in history.

03 SILLAMAE CULTURAL CENTRE In Soviet times, it was closed, thus preserving Sillamäe's renowned Stalinist architecture. Dozens of well-preserved crystal chandeliers can be seen. A bunker houses a museum about the Soviet era.

04 HARJUMAA COASTAL AREAS To the east and west of Tallinn are beautiful coastal beach areas. Immediately close to the capital, for example, are steep vertical bluffs. Easily accessible are Harku county's Türisalu bluffs, which are also near the popular Vääna-Jõesuu beach.

05 SÕBRALAAT 2016 Every second year, Finns and Estonians have organised a friendship fair based on shared mutual commerce. It will be held this year in Kunda, from 9-10 July.

Distances by road: ■ Tallinn – Jõhvi 173 km ■ Tallinn – Narva 214 km ■ Tallinn – Mustvee 174 km ■ Narva – Mustvee 115 km ■ Tallinn – Paldiski 46 km ■ Tallinn – Keila 26 km ■ Tallinn – Rapla 56 km

More information: www.northestonia.eu

How to get there. From Tallinn there are three trains to Jõhvi and Narva. Travel time to Narva is about 2.5 hours and the ticket costs €11.40. From Tapa there is also a connection to Tartu. Express buses travel from early morning until late at night, and the trip to Narva takes about three hours. The Paldiski electric train goes to Keila 14 times daily and to Rapla even more often. A ticket to Keila costs €2.40 and €3 to other cities.

15 Western Estonia's Islands

TALLINN

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M AY 2 0 1 6 Vormsi KÄRDLA Hiiumaa Muhu Saaremaa

PÄRNU

KURESSAARE Kihnu Ruhnu

In and around the islands.

Top 5 Western Estonia's Islands

The Western Estonian Islands are a diverse travel destination. TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The islands are full of nooks and crannies and

great sandy beaches to explore. There are also ports with a host of modern services. The islands are a great travel destination especially if you have your own boat. Port information can be found at www.sadamaregister.ee, which shows all the Estonian ports on maps (the page is in both Estonian and English). It is worth driving around the islands by car, with a bike or even on horseback. The latter, for example, can be arranged in Muhu at the Tihuse stables or in Saaremaa at Ratsukievari. The flavours of Hiiumaa are seen in the local food culture and during the many events organised during the summer season. One of the specialities is Hiiumaa garfish, which has a festival named after it (Tuulekala Festival at the end of May). The island's food culture can be found in many local cafes and restaurants, of which Pädaste Manor Alexander in Muhu has been chosen several times as the best restaurant on the island and in Estonia. Kuressaare’s newest restaurant is Mais, that in addition to good food, also offers cultural experiences. The restaurant is located at Tolli 7. ■

Distances by road: ■ Tallinn-Virtsu 135 km ■ Tallinn-Rohuküla 110 km ■ Tallinn-Munalaid 165 km The largest cities (population): ■ 13,300 Kuressaare (Saaremaa) ■ 3,100 Kärdla (Hiiumaa)

Western Estonia’s largest islands: ■ Saaremaa: About 2670 km2, population approximately 40,000 ■ Hiiumaa: Nearly 1,000 km2, population approximately 10,000. ■ Muhu: About 200 km2, population approximately 1,900. ■ Vormsi: About 93 km2, population of 400. ■ Kihnu: About 17 km2, population of 500. ■ Ruhnu: About 11 km2, population of 70.

01 LOCAL FLAVOURS Hiiumaa is celebrating local flavours this year and on the other islands there are also delicious local products to be tasted. On Saaremaa, the Pöide brewery on the island’s east coast produces beer in the traditional way. The brewery’s products are in such high demand that it will be expanding its operations to Kuressaare.

02 NATURE TRIPS

Estonian islands are almost all untouched nature reserves. The nature reserves and national parks are magnificent. The Vilsandi National Park is located on the west coast of Saaremaa and includes dozens of islands, including the island of Vilsandi.

03 RELAXING VACATIONS One feels like you are in an old film on the Estonian Islands. A hurried lifestyle seems to disappear, which creates a calming opportunity to relax. Relaxation can be enjoyed at spas, golf courses, cafés or under nature’s spell.

The Estonian islands have a checkered history, and it is worth visiting many of the museums on several of the islands. Historical beacons, churches, fortresses, windmills and other buildings are found in several places. No less interesting is the local culture, which has survived on many tiny islands, even to the extent that Kihnu culture is recognised by UNESCO on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

How to get there. You can get to Muhu and Saaremaa by ferry from Virtsu port (journey time 30 min). There is an elevated road connecting Muhu to Saaremaa. From the port of Rohuküla, ships depart for Hiiumaa with a journey time of 90 minutes to Heltermaa. Between Hiiumaa and Saaremaa - ferries are running on a regular basis between Triigi and Sõru (travel time 75 min). From Pärnu to Kihnu the journey takes 2.5 hours, from the Munalaiu port one can get to Kihnu and Ruhnu, and to Ruhnu from Saaremaa Roomassaare harbour. Beautiful scenery and fascinating history awaits you on the islands.

04 LIVING HISTORY

05 OPERA IN THE CASTLE The Saaremaa Opera Days will be held outdoors by the stunning Kuressaare Episcopal Castle from 25 - 31 July. The Wrocław Opera House will perform at the festivities and is planning to include Verdi’s Othello. The varied programme has something for children and includes many fine concerts.

16 Western Estonia

Top 5 Haapsalu

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M AY 2 0 1 6

Pärnu & Haapsalu – Essential summertime destinations TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS KAUPO KALDA, ANDRES PUTTING, ANDREI CHERTKOV, TOOMAS TUUL, ILON'S WONDERLAND, EAS, MIKKO VIRTA, MATI KOSE, PÄRNU

01 HAAPSALU SUMMER STREET Haapsalu’s romantic beachside promenade is filled with people in summer. The beautiful Kuursaal is certainly worth a stop for a coffee or a meal. If you’re lucky, you might even see a polar bear in the water.

02 THE HISTORICAL BISHOP’S CASTLE The Bishop’s Castle makes up a large part of the skyline of Haapsalu. Located in the Old Town, visit the museum inside as well as the fascinating cathedral.

03 ILON’S WONDERLAND In summer, the children’s centre has an outdoor theatre and workshops. This theme park was made in honour of Ilon Wikland who illustrated Astrid Lindgren’s children’s books.

04 WHITE SANDY BEACHES Nõva, in Estonia’s most northwest corner, boasts beautiful white sandy beaches. It’s said that the beach sings because the sands are so fine. Nõva’s pine forests are a well-kept natural secret.

Haapsalu is also sometimes referred to as

the town of cafés. On Karja street in the Old Town, tens of them line the street, some of which are only open in summer. Haapsalu is a great family holiday destination. The town is peaceful in summer, save for the times that there are larger events on. Explore this small town on bicycle, which you can rent in town. The Peetri train drives through the streets and will take you past all the town’s top attractions. The Bishop’s Castle and the African Beach game parks are fun for the youngest members of the family. The steamship Kallis Mari will also be sailing this year. The south western beach town of Pärnu is a

popular destination, even for locals. Readers of the www.reisidiilid.ee website chose Pärnu as the best family holiday destination, and only second as the best holiday spot after Barcelona. There are many reasons to go to Pärnu. For some, it is a city of parks and greenery and being outdoors for leisurely activities, and for others, vibrant cultural

Haapsalu's Kuursaal offers a stunning view over the water.

Top 5 Pärnu

Distances by road: ■ Tallinn- Pärnu 135 km ■ Tallinn-Haapsalu 100 km The largest cities (population): ■ Haapsalu: 11,000 ■ Lihula: 2500 ■ Pärnu 43,000

programs. Pärnu’s long sandy coastline is impressive even those who have visited many times. Pärnu's old market will be undergoing renovations for about 8 months but will be open occasionally in summer. The plan is to re-

open the market in autumn, larger than ever. Good news for market goers, on Thursdays from 16-18 in front of Pärnu Keskus local food producers in Pärnu county will be selling their goods. This includes eggs, honey, jams, preserves, dairy products and fresh fish. For active holidaymakers, there is the Valgeranna Adventure Park, Audru Ring Auto24 race track, many very luxurious spas, surf beach and a central skatepark. ■

01 ESTONIA'S FAVOURITE BEACH Good things are free. The sun, the sea, and the beach sand don't cost anything. Estonia's most popular beach on a beautiful summer day may have as many as 30,000 sun worshipers.

02 FUNCTIONALISTIC BUILDINGS

It’s thanks to architect Olev Siinmaa that Pärnu looks the way it does. The mud baths, Rannahoone and the Rannahotell are excellent examples.

03 THE COUNTRYSIDE CALLS If the noise in Pärnu bothers you, go to the countryside. Go towards the seaside village of Kabli, on the shore of historical Tori River or visit Varbla's sandy beaches.

04 SUMMER EVENTS

Pärnu's cultural scene is bustling throughout the summer. Events worthy of mention are the Hanseatic Days (1-3 July), the city festival Augustiunetus (13 August), the annual exhibition Man and Woman art exhibition (29 May - 4 September), and the major electronic music event Weekend Festival Baltic (4-7 August).

05 MATSALU NATIONAL PARK From Haapsalu it’s just a quick trip to Matsalu, one of Europe’s best birdwatching sites with views over the nests of sea beach and the sea. May is one of the best months for birdwatching and in June, see interesting plant species, including wild orchids.

05 NATURE TRAILS Nature can be appreciated in the city as well. Pärnu boasts some of the best trails. Or if you want, escape to the beautiful Soomaa National Park, about an hour's drive from Pärnu.

Haapsalu and Läänemaa Museums www.salm.ee

Italian

Restaurant and Pizzeria

Haapsalu Town Hall

Railway and Communications Museum

Kooli 2, Haapsalu Tel. +372 473 7065 info@salm.ee

Raudtee 2, Haapsalu Tel. +372 4734574 raudtee@salm.ee

“Peetrike” Tourist Train

Ants Laikmaa Home Museum Kadarpiku village, Lääne-Nigula Parish Tel. +372 472 9756 • laikmaa@salm.ee

Tel. +372 473 4574; raudtee@salm.ee

“Kallis Mari” Steam Ship Tel. +372 5396 1396

Open M-Th 11.30-23.00 F,Sa11.30-24.00, Su 12.00-23.00

Authentic Italian food prepared by our Italian chefs. - Our pizzas are cooked in a wood fire oven. - Delicious pasta that melts in your mouth. - Located in the heart of Tartu. - A cosy summer terrace. - WiFi

Haapsalu Episcopal Castle

Ilon’s Wonderland

Lossiplats 3, Haapsalu Tel. +372 518 4664 linnus@salm.ee

Kooli 5, Haapsalu Tel. +372 5836 2806 imedemaa@salm.ee

Kompanii 10, Tartu Tel. +372 7407 545 www.ladolcevita.ee

Estonia’s first smart hotel! 1h – 2.50 EUR; 3-6h – 7.50 EUR 24h – 10 EUR 1h – 5 EUR; 3-6h – 13 EUR 24h – 18 EUR

HOTEL

!

RESTAURANT BEAUTY SALON MINI-SPA Restaurant Postmark Mon–Sat 12–22, Sun 12–18

245 museums?

Beauty Salon Tue-Thu 10-18 Fri-Sat 10-20 Sun, Mon closed

Read The Baltic Guide to learn more about Estonia.

Mini-Spa Mon-Sun 18-22

Did you know that Estonia has

www.balticguide.ee

Jüri 38a, Võru • Tel. +372 332 2221 • info@georgihotell.ee www.georgihotell.ee

18 Southern Estonia

TALLINN

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M AY 2 0 1 5

VILJANDI PÕLVA

VÄRSKA VALGA

Top 5 Southern Estonia

VÕRU

Familiar Landscape The rolling hills of southern Estonia make up a different landscape than that of the rest of the country. TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS REIGO JÕE, TOOMAS TUUL, HOTEL GEORGI, REMO SAVISAAR, MAREK METSLAID

Viljandimaa has large fields, but south of

01 VILJANDI FOLK MUSIC FESTIVAL Now in its 24th year, this is an event for the whole family. The programme includes children’s music, spiritual music, dance music and folk rock. This year’s theme is women’s voice.

02 OBINITSA

Last year, the Finno-Ugric cultural capital city in Setomaa celebrated its culture. This summer from 30 June to 10 July enjoy the play Obinitsa, a Tartu Vanemuise production.

03 GEORG HOTEL In Võru a modern hotel has opened in the former post office building. The historical architecture blends beautifully with modern technology. Services include a mini spa and a beauty salon.

Tartu the landscape changes to be more hilly and spotted with lakes. Some of the world’s largest pines grow in Veriora county in Põlvamaa. One of the tallest of the giants is 46.6 m high and over 200 years old. Põlvamaa’s neighbour is Võrumaa whose smoke sauna culture is recognised

Distances by road: ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

Tallinn-Viljandi 154 km Tartu-Viljandi 78 km Pärnu-Viljandi 86 km Tallinn-Võru 257 km Tallinn-Valga 246 km Võru-Valga 68 km Võru-Viljandi 120 km Viljandi-Valga 80 km

on Unesco’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Near the town of Võru is the Mooska farm which is known for its smoke sauna and smoked meats. Although Otepää’s hilly areas are suitable for winter sports, it also offers activities for the whole family in the summer like adventure parks. Estonia’s Valga and Latvia’s Valka are twin towns.The history of the region relates to the squad of Finnish volunteers Põhja Pojad (Northern Sons) that fought in the 1919 Battle of Paju with Estonians. ■

How to get there? A train from Tallinn to Viljandi takes about 2.5 hours and costs €8.90. The train travels four times a day. Rapid bus lines travel the route as quickly and the fare is a very favorable €5. Buses from Tallinn to Võru take about 4 hours and ticket prices start at €10.

04 MIDSUMMER SOLSTICE CELEBRATIONS The Pühajärve Midsummer solstice bonfire in 2016. In Otepää the event hosts international and local artists including Gigi D’Agostino. In Setoma the summer solstice is celebrated 22 June at Mikitamäe and 23 June at Värska. The Viljandi bonfire will be lit on the beach at 20.00 on 23 June

05 LÜÜBNITSA FISH AND ONION FAIR On the last weekend of August in Põlvamaa one can buy traditionally grown onions and garlic for winter use.

Experience the unique smoke sauna in Southern Estonia.

19 Tartu

TALLINN

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M AY 2 0 1 6

TARTU

Top 5 Tartu 01 TARTU’S OLD TOWN New cafés in Tartu’s Old Town have sprouted like flowers after the rain. The city’s best cakes and coffee, as well as terraces can certainly be found here. The Old Town is an excursion for the whole family. Visit places like Toomemägi (Dome Hill), the Toy Museum, and of course the university’s main building. The statue of kissing students in the Town Hall Square is a symbol of the city.

02 ESTONIAN NATIONAL MUSEUM AND TARTU’S MUSEUMS Tartu is known for its many museums, including the Tartu University Museum, Tartu City Museum, and the biggest science centre in the Baltics, AHHAA. The Estonian National Museum will open in its new location in autumn as one of the most modern in the north. Its permanent exhibitions will discuss Estonians and Finno-Ugric cultures. The museum is built on the Raadi property and the former Soviet Raadi airport. The museum is approximately 40,000 square metres in size. www.ahhaa.ee www.erm.ee/et/Kylasta/Raadi

Tartu Blooms in Summer Tartu is a great stop for a weekend or longer holiday. TEXT LAURA KOIVISTO, PHOTOS LIINA LAURIKAINEN, ARE TRALLA, JAAK NILSON, KERLY ILVES

Distance: ■ Tallinn-Tartu 185 km

Tartu is known for its university and his-

torical significance. Wander the streets of the Old Town in the sun and then stop for a coffee in a café. Enjoy some of the many cultural events taking place and the exciting nightlife. Visit the Tartu Adventure Park and climb high among the trees. Tartu is also known for its museums. There are close to 20 museums so you are sure to find something for every taste. The Tartu University Museum is completely new where you will see many interesting exhibits. Other points of interest include the Observatory,

Population: ■ Approximately 99,000 More information: www.visittartu.com

Botanical Gardens and the historical Dome Church. ■

03 ST PAUL’S CHURCH OF TARTU The stunning St Paul’s Church is Estonia’s only Art Nouveau church, which was designed by Finnish-American architect Eliel Saarinen. The beautiful building is a unique part of Tartu’s skyline. You can take a guided tour of the church. http://tartupauluse.ee/for-guests

How to get there 04 THE WOODEN HOUSES OF SUPILINN AND KARLOVA

A trip from Tallinn to Tartu lasts 2 hours by train and 2.5 hours by bus. We recommend buying your tickets in advance.

Walking among the wooden houses in Supilinn and Karlova, you get the feeling you’ve stepped back in time, with the smell of wood fire coming from the chimneys. The Bohemian area of Supilinn is closest to the city centre and is known by the funny names of the streets like Herne (pea), Kartuli (potato), and Oa (bean). It’s also worth a visit to Karlova where you can see the Aparaaditehas and many great cafés.

05 EMAJÕGI RIVER The summer has officially started when gardeners come to plant flowers on the banks of the Emajõgi River. Enjoy a picnic and watch the boats pass by. You can also ride along the river with the Jõmmu barge or hire a canoe.

20

sightseeing

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M AY 2 0 1 6

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Must-see sights of the Old Town Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels

Raekoja plats

Viewing Platforms Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arm's length. The red-tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn b1 Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church was even taller in medieval times and the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn b1 Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets. Tallinn b1

St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik) Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath, but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea, was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town e2

Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s. Tallinn Old Town h 1-2

The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means “look into the kitchen” in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick. Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn b1

Raeapteek The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location, on Town Hall Square. Tallinn Old Town h1

KGB Museum Toompea Castle The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Riigikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn b1

A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests. The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours fill up quickly so bookings are recommended. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Hop on, Hop off Bus Tour Sometimes you just don’t have enough time to see everything, but on the Tallinn City Tour you just might. Three lines run daily, and best of all, each one passes through the Port of Tallinn, making it even more convenient. The tour operates in ten different languages and is guided by a recorded audio track that follows the sequence of the sights. One ticket is valid for 24 hours. This means that you can travel on all three routes in one day.

Paks Margareeta Katariina käik Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene. Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants. Tallinn Old Town h 2-3

Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 metres and the walls are up to 5 metres thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn, if arriving by sea. The Estonian Maritime Museum is located in the artillery tower (suurtükitorn). Pikk 70, Tallinn a2

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M AY 2 0 1 6

sightseeing

21 ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Outside of the Old Town Kalamaja & Kopli Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. Since the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870, many factories

opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types have moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafés began to open, and the area continues to grow.

Area: 45,227 km2. Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000. Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country. Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are nonreligious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.

Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County. Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu. Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

A quick history of the city of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).

Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam) Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines

built in the UK in the mid 1930s. Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian War of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service. The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.

Patarei Prison (Patarei Vangla) Kalaranna 2-2a By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop.

Kadriorg Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century. The park and the palace were built by Peter the Great, who apparently

1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town. 1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn. 1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as a barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.

Pirita Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgitta’s Convent (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day in summer. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

TOURIST INFORMATION (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TVTower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only provides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district. St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoja plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes the capital of newlyindependent Estonia. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

■ Central Post Offices Postimaja Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2. Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1. Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3. Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

■ Currency Exchange Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn.

Holidays

Estonian Open Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life

from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.

1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day

The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

2015/2016 School Holidays Autumn Break 17 October 2015 – 25 October 2015 Winter Break 23 December 2015 – 10 January 2016 Spring Break 19 March 2016 – 27 March 2016 Summer Break 4 June 2016 - 31 August 2016

22

museum

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ M AY 2 0 1 6

Museums & Galleries

TALLINN ■

Museums

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU) Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19.

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, b1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18.

Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18.

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum)

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum)

Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, h2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum. 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30.

Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18.

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace

Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30.

Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, a5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17.

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri muuseum)

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum)

Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17. Winter by appointment only.

Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, d3 www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18.3

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum)

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, f2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We 10-17, Th 10-19, Fri-Su 10-17.

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee.

23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17.

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum) Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, i2 www.tmm.ee. 1.09-31.05 May, Tu-Sa 10-18. 1.06-31.08, Mo-Sa 10-18.

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, j1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/. 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18. 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30.

MiiaMilla Museum (Muuseum MiiaMilla) L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn b4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamilla Tu-Su 12-18.

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, a2, www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee. We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18.

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/ tallinn/basic-information/hotel-viru-andkgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian. ■ Art Museums & Galleries

Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.adamson-eric.ee. We-Su 11–18

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, a4 www.kadriorumuuseum.ee. Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17. May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17.

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum) Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, b4 www.mikkelimuuseum.ee. Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17. July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20.

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, b5 www.kumu.ee. Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18. May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18.

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17. Ticket office closes 16.30.

Tallinn Zoo The zoo keeps visitors coming back year after year. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

The zoo is one of those places that

you can visit many times and still not see everything. It’s fun and interesting for visitors of all ages, especially with baby animals born in the spring. Tallinn Zoo is definitely Estonian, because you can watch many of the animals live via webcam from the zoo’s homepage. But of course, visiting is much more fun. Located in the Veskimetsa park forest, Tallinn Zoo houses one of the most fascinating collections of wildlife in northern Europe. It has over 7,700 specimens from almost 600 species from all over the world. Tallinn Zoo has an impressive collection of wild goats and sheep, as well as a large population of vultures and eagles, along with other birds. Guided tours can be booked in English for those wanting a

The Tallinn Zoo makes for a great family day trip.

deeper understanding of the zoo and its inhabitants. There is still plenty to see wandering through the grounds on your own. Children can enjoy the children’s zoo, located in the Environmental Education Center at the West Gate. You’ll find pygmy goats, bunnies, guinea pigs, hamsters, alpacas, tortoises, rats, chinchillas, a frog and

even a chipmunk! Other favourites are the Elephant House and the Tropical House. Tallinn Zoo is large, so for families with smaller children, it is best to rent a cart, which can fit up to two young children. The zoo has a number of cafes; be sure to book at least half a day to see everything. ■

Location Tallinn Zoo Paldiski mnt 145 / Ehitajate tee 150, Tallinn

Meet creatures big and small.

HOW TO GET THERE: Paldiski mnt. 145 – north entrance From Tallinn city center (Kaubamaja) bus nr. 42 (Bus stop Zoo) From the Freedom Square (Vabaduse väljak) buses nr. 41, 42 and 22 (Bus stop Zoo) From the Railway station (Balti jaam) buses nr 21, 41 and 43 (Bus stop Zoo) Ehitajate tee 150 – west entrance From Tallinn city center (Kaubamaja) bus nr. 42 (Bus stop Karikakra or Nurmenuku) From the Railway station (Balti jaam) bus nr. 43 (Bus stop Karikakra or Nurmenuku) Busses nr. 10, 12, 13, 28, 37, 45, 46, 47 Summer opening hours Ticket Booth 9.00- 19.00, Indoor Exhibits 10.00-19.00 (Closed on Mondays), Children’s Zoo 10.00- 19.00.

getting around

TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ M MAAYY 22001166

23 Ticket Information

PUBLIC TRANSPORT KOPLI

1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati

Maleva Maleva

Sirbi

The Smartcard or Ühiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet. ee. A €2 deposit is needed to purchase the Smartcard. If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the beginning of each journey.

Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free. Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader. Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee

Sitsi Lõime Angerja

Madala

KALAMAJA

PÕHJA-TALLINN Ehte Volta

Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5

Trams

Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Balti jaam – Keskuse Balti jaam – Mustamäe

1 2 3 4

Põhja pst

Nisu

Balti jaam Telliskivi

Kadriorg – Kopli Ülemiste– Kopli Kadriorg – Tondi Ülemiste jaam – Tondi

Kolde puiestee

From the driver

4 5

J. Poska

KADRIORG

Ädala

Ristiku Sõle Ülase Taksopark Hipodroom Koskla Välja

Balti jaam Mere pst Hobujaama L. Koidula 1, 3 Tallinna Htl. Tallinn OLD Viru Ülikool KADRIORG TOWN 1 Htl. Tallinn Paberi 3 Tehnika TõnisEstonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi Keskturg MAJA Vabaduse soni väljak Tõnismägi Majaka AutobussiKoidu jaam Sikupilli Kosmos Lubja Koidu

Kelmiküla

Lille

HAABERSTI

Linnahall Port

Taksopark Koskla

UUS-MAAILM

VEERENNI

Bus Station

Vineeri

Tihase

Majaka põik

ÜLEMISTE

VäikePae Paala

4 Ülemiste jaam

ÜLEMISTE JAAM

Marja Tedre

Airport

KRISTIINE Löwenruh

ÕISMÄE

Linnu tee

Aiandi

TallinnVäike

■ single ticket €1.60 ■ student ticket €0.80 Try to have exact change for the driver. Cards are not accepted. The ticket is valid for one journey only on that specific vehicle. Discounts are only available to ISIC cardholders.

2 Ülemiste

E-tickets ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

1 hour ticket 1 day (24h) 3 days (72h) 5 days (120h) 30 days

€1.10 €3 €5 €6 €23

Sääse

TONDI

Siili

A. H. Tammsaare tee

Tondi

3, 4

Where to buy

MUSTAMÄE 1 3 5

MUSTAMÄE Mustamäe

Kaja

Szolnok

■ ■ ■ ■

Lepistiku

Akadeemia tee KESKUSE Männi Vambola Mustamäe Liivaku Keskuse 9 4 Raja Keemia Ehitajate tee

JÄRVE

from the driver from kiosks from post offices online www.pilet.ee (Top up your smartcard with MasterCard or Visa)

TALLINN CITY TOUR Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

PIRITA

Free ■ preschool children ■ adult travelling with children 3 years and under ■ holders of a validated Tallinn Card

LASNAMÄE KOPLI port

KALAMAJA ROCCA AL MARE

PELGULINN

OLD TOWN

KADRIORG

MERIMETSA VEERENNI

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets 19€ www.citytour.ee

6-118-000 11-800 (+€0.74 / min)

www.pilet.ee, info@pilet.ee

■ Useful Phrases please.................................................. palun thank you .......................................... aitäh, tänan excuse me ......................................... vabandage hello..................................................... tere, tervist good morning ................................. tere hommikust good day............................................ tere päevast good evening .................................. tere õhtust good night ........................................ head ööd goodbye ............................................ nägemist, head aega all the best......................................... kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.............................. head reisi bon appetite .................................... jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ................... terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

24

transport

MAAYY 22001166 TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ M

TALLINN

Photo: Margus Johanson

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

■ By bus: Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

■ Phone calls There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

■ Free WiFi Ye s , t h a t ’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

■ Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE and EMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h) ■ Taxis

From the bus station to the city: ■ tram no. 2, 4 ■ bus no. 17, no. 23

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero. ■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists. ■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways. ■ All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night. ■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. ■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid further penalty.

■ By sea: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

Car Hire You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at Tallinn Airport: ■ Budget – www.budget.ee ■ Europcar – www.europcar.ee ■ Hertz – www.hertz.ee ■ National – www.europcar.ee ■ Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee. ■ ■ ■ ■

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

■ By train: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

Parking Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

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Parking in Tallinn can be confusing. There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots. The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time – placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle. This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.

CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN: 0,375 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fr 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

DOWNTOWN / SÜDALINN: 1,20 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fi 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

OLD TOWN / VANALINN: 1,50 / 15 minutes Paid parking around the clock Parking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn. For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parkingin-Tallinn

■ By air: Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K

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