The Baltic Guide ENG December 2015

D E C E M B E R 2 0 15

Holiday shopping guide What to wear this season Occupations Museum Mediterranean flavours of Tallinn

Christmas in Estonia Nightlife: Venturing outside of the Old Town

www.balticguide.ee

ENGLISH EDITION

Your free guide to Estonia

what The best things where to seedoandin when Estonia

Första stället i Tallinn när man kommer sjövägen och sista när man beger sig till havs!

The first place to come when You arrive and the last place to visit before leaving!

Massor av härliga smakupplevelser!

Levande musik varje dag/ Live music every day 12-15

Taste one of our delicious dishes! Öppet/Open: varje dag/every day 8-19.

Köket öppet från kl/ The kitchen open from 8.

Sadamarket Shopping Centrum 1a vån/1st floor, 100m från A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals.

Sadama 8/Kai 5 (opposite the Sadamaturg), Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, info@seitsemerd.ee, www.seitsemerd.ee

Authentic Bavarian Oktoberfest beer.

Come and taste it.

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editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5

Holiday Traditions

A

n Estonian Christmas is a mixture of traditional and modern. The many occupations of Estonia have influenced celebrations here.

Like in most of Northern Europe, Estonians celebrate Christmas on Christmas Eve (24 December). In the folk calendar, Christmas began on St. Thomas’s Day (21 December) and lasted until Epiphany (6 January).

Christmas holidays were celebrated from 25-27 December, with 24 December being the most important day.

The word jõulud (Christmas) comes from the word Jul, a word that has no connection to Christianity.

Scandinavia and Estonia are the only areas in Europe where Christmas is still referred to by a pre-Christian word. The word näärid, of German origin, was also used to mark the holiday. It was the only official seasonal holiday during the Soviet period. Otherwise, New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day were celebrated at the time and

Christmas was celebrated unofficially in the privacy of one’s home.

Every year, on 24 December, the President of Estonia declares Christmas Peace. This is a 350-year- old tradition that began in the 17th century by the order of Queen Kristina of Sweden.

Christmas time in Estonia is magical. The huge tree in the middle of the square is the centre piece for the Christmas market. Smells of black pudding, sauerkraut, and mulled wine fill the Old Town. Traditional Estonian Christmas food includes pork with sauerkraut and blood sausage. There are many opportunities to try traditional Estonian Christmas food while visiting this December.

Look for restaurants with special Christmas menus on offer. And no visit to Estonia in winter is complete without a mug of glögg or mulled wine.

Contents 3 Editorial

restaurants

Happy Holidays!

4-5 Restaurants: salt lusikas restaurant news

Kristina Lupp Editor-in-chief

December Highlights 01 DISCO CHRISTMAS The legendary Boney M, together with one original member performs 20 December at the Nordea Concert Hall in Tallinn. Mazie Williams, an original member of the band will sings such hits at Rasputin and Daddy Cool.

02 THE LIGHT IN THE DARKNESS

shopping g

Celebrate Winter Solstice 21 December in Pärnu at the event Victory of Light Over Darkness. Starting at 18.00 in the Vallikääru Park, enjoy a lights show and dancing. Pärnu Christmas money will also be distributed.

6 Beauty 8–9 Shopping 10 Nightlife 12–13 style & fashion hion 14 family fun 15 Events 16-17 Sightseeing ng 19 Getting Around nd 20 Transport 21-22 Maps and Information

03 SANTA’S DESIGNER BAG Clothing, jewelry, bags, ceramics, and more are on sale at Design Market. The Design Market or Disainiturg takes place 20 December at Kultuurikatel, located close to the A Terminal.

04 CHRISTMAS MARKETS IN TARTU AND PÄRNU Pärnus Christmas market can be found in front of the Pärnu Centre from 18 - 23 December. Tartu’s Christmas Market takes place 12 December in the city centre.

05 WHITE GOSPEL

Your Comments ■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst.

25, 10415, Tallinn.

Contact Information

Pick up your free copy at:

Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Contributors: Stuart Garlick Design: Evelin Linholm Photography: Andrei Chertkov Printing House: AS Kroonpress

O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seitse Merd Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee

Photo: Andrei Chertkov Model: Maarja-Liisa Kallit Make-up: Mammu Hair: Anett Laisaar/Intersalon.ee Style: Ženja Fokin Thanks to: Hortes.ee

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DECEMBER 2015

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal, M/L Liverpool Seaways Paldiski-Kapellskär-Paldiski HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Estonian Air Europe-Tallinn routes, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus, Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones,

@ balticguide_en

Photo: Press

White Gospel takes place for the fifth year in a row and brings the WAF Choir and seven top Estonian artists to the Saku Suurhall 10 December. Enjoy songs in English and Estonian by Tanja Mihhailova (shown in the photo), Koit Toome, Kaire Vilgats, Nele-Liis Vaiksoo, Ott Lepland, Lauri Pihlap, and Rolf Roosalu.

restau

4

The wine list focuses mainly on artisan wines.

The octopus ceviche is inspired by Peruvian street food.

Taste, as it should be Salt, a small Kadriorg bistro, aims to share the flavours of the world.

bistro TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Tiina Treumann, owner of Salt

restaurant has travelled extensively. “I want to bring the flavours of favourite dishes I have tried and share them here in

Tallinn”. Take for example, the octopus ceviche Tiina tried at a street festival in Peru. The thinly sliced octopus is a burst of fresh flavours with lime, coriander, onion, and tomato jam.

The menu changes weekly, but the ceviche has secured itself a permanent spot.

Another favourite is the beet-

root ravioli. This colourful dish is fantastic whether you’re vegetarian or not. Thinly-sliced beetroot is wrapped around fresh goat’s cheese and served with pistachios and mango cream. But for something a little bit more substantial, the moose saddle with kale, glazed carrots, and truffle sauce will warm the coldest of nights.

To complement the everchanging weekly menu, Tiina has composed an wine list focusing mostly on artisan wines and beers. Helen, one of the servers at Salt, is a beer sommelier and can recommend beer to match the food, for something a little different.

Salt’s service is top notch, yet

still friendly and casual. After a meal, it truly feels like you’ve been to a good friend’s house for dinner.

■

Location Vase 14, Tallinn b3

Warm Flav The Mediterranean inspired menu mediterranean TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Alo Stamm, head chef at Lusikas

Mediterranean flavours inspire the menu at Lusikas.

restaurant in Tallinn’s Old Town loves Mediterranean food. His menu reflects this with a great assortment of fish and seafood dishes. “I cook what I like, but more importantly, I cook what our clients like”, he explains as he tells me about the menu. Stamm’s dishes are fresh and simple, as is the style of Mediterranean cooking. “What’s important are quality ingredients”. Meat lovers need not worry, there are many meat dishes to please every palate.

Fresh oysters are always on the menu, a wonderful way to whet the appetite with a glass of sparkling wine.

Lusikas has a fabulous selection of

sparkling wines and champagnes.

Then move on to the mussels, which are served as a 1kg portion (half portions are also available). Served with a white wine cream sauce, the rich broth is the ultimate winter comfort food. For dessert, try the apple cake, which has been on the menu since the restaurant opened in 2012. “Our clients won’t let us take it off the menu”, explains Stamm.

Lusikas’ wine list has over 300 bottles, offering wide selection of both region and price. Lusikas is also a great place to come for drinks and appetisers. Their wine menu offers cheese platters and snack platters for two. ■

Location Lusikas Aia 7, Tallinn Old Town g3

urants

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Save room for dessert at Tchaikovsky.

RESTAURANT NEWS --------------------Appetisers €2.90-11.50 Mains €10.50-18.50 Desserts €5 ---------------------

IIII I IIII I I IIIII I II I II I I

Adding the final touches to the beetroot and goat's cheese ravioli.

ours for Cold Months at Lusikas brings a little bit of sunshine to the cold north.

The Black Rose Pub at Viimsi Spa Hotel has just opened a seafood restaurant of the same name, Black Rose Seafood. The restaurant offers a breakfast, lunch, and dinner buffet daily. The a la carte menu offers everything from scallops to sprats, squid to moose burgers. There is live music every wednesday night.

Kalakohvik FAO 27, located in Tabasalu, just on the outskirts of town is the new restaurant

by Pärnu’s Kalamajakas, which belongs to the list of 50 Best Restaurants in Estonia.

A new restaurant Triangel, just opened near Norde Centrum in the port area. It opens at 7.30 for breakfast and offers daily lunch specials as well. Warm dishes start at 3.30. From off the à la carte menu, pasta dishes start from 5, and the most expensive main, duck, is 13. There is also a children’s menu.

Michelin star chef Leif Mannerström will take to the seas aboard the Viking Line from 17 November to 26 December to offer traditional and modern

dishes. The meals brought 170,000 travellers aboard the ship last year.

The White Guide Nordic now includes Estonia. Twenty five of Estonia’s restaurants made the list this year. Alexander at Pädaste made the International Masterclass category and five restaurants made the masterclass category: Noa Chef’s Side, Ö, Tchaikovsky, OKO, and Art Priori. ■

Location Black Rose Seafood, Randvere tee 11, Viimsi Kalakohvik FAO 27, Klooga mnt 5a, Tabasalu Triangel, Lootsi 3a, Tallinn a3 Alexander, Pädaste, Muhu saar Noa peakoka Pool, Ranna tee 3, Tallinn Ö, Mere pst 6E, Tallinn a2 Tchaikovsky, Vene 9, Tallinn Old Town h2 OKO, Punaste laternate 1, Kaberneeme Art Priori, Olevimäe 7, Tallinn Old Town f3

IIII I IIII I I IIIII I II I II I I

Photo: Art Priori

--------------------Appetisers €3-12 Mains €10-19 Desserts €5-6 ---------------------

Service is fast and friendly.

Art Priori made the masterclass category in the White Guide Nordic.

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beauty

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Photo: MMetropol Beauty Studio

The Real Deal Considering hair extensions? Here’s a look at why quality matters.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTO BELLICAPELLI.RUU

Ly Isabel Taavel was the first st in Enjoy comfort and style at Metropoli Salong.

Metropol Beauty Studio Ly Isabel Taavel was the first in

Estonia to start importing hair extensions and offering courses on how to apply them. This was back in 1998. Seventeen years later, Taavel believes that it’s important to offer top quality products and professional service. Metropoli is therefore the best place to go for hair extensions, if you’re looking for the real deal. Metropol Belli Capelli brand extensions that are authentic slavic hair extensions,

they look and feel like your real hair. Metropol also offers haircutting, styling, manicures, pedicures, extensions, and massage.

Check out their website for a full list of services. Metropol is located in the heart of the city in the Metropol hotel. ■

Location Roseni 13, Tallinn a2

Eclat Recently opened this year, Eclat Beauty Salon offers hair cutting,

Photo: Eclat

styling, and colouring, gel manicures, eyelash extensions and more. Visit Eclat for a top-notch hair style for your wedding day or any other event. They have professional and experienced stylists that will make sure you leave looking and feeling your best for your big day. ■

Location Have you hair and makeup done for any special event.

Roseni 9, Tallinn a2

Peel & Belle Peel & Belle offers professional

beauty services including facials, manicure and pedicure, waxing, makeup, hair cutting and styling, and more! Convenient online booking makes it easy to book a time and then just sit back and enjoy. They use the best of the best, meaning top international

brands in all of the services that they offer, and professional and experienced service from their team of beauty experts. ■

Location Tartu mnt 28, Tallinn b3

beauty needs is at Ursula Ilusalong.

Conveniently located in Tallinn’s city centre, Ursula offers hair cutting and styling, manicures and pedicures, eyelash extensions, waxing and more! Enjoy professional service and easy online

booking. Check out their Facebook page for a look at some of the great haircuts they’ve done. ■

Location Pärnu mnt 26, Tallinn b2

Ho do you look after extensions?

How Is it harder than with real hair?

The better the quality, the easier it Th is to t look after them. Good-quality extensions don’t need any special care. You can use your favourite shampoo and conditioner, sleep with your hair down, and go swimming. Rough extensions can sometimes be fixed by applying a moisturizing mask and specialized moisturizing conditioner spray.

How long do they last?

Once again, the better the quality, the longer they last. Good quality extensions can last up to a couple of years.

Are hair extensions suitable for everyone?

When the extensions are attached, you have to make sure they don’t ruin your own hair. The lighter and thinner your hair is, the lighter the extensions should be.

Good quality extensions weigh less and should be easy to brush through, because when brushing rough extensions, they can pull out some of your real hair. ■

Product Review: Vestige Verdant Infinity Eye Serum TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV

Your eyes are one of the most

Ursula Ilusalong Your one-stop-shop for all your

Estonia to start importing hair extensions and offering courses rses on how to apply them. This was back in 1998. Seventeen years ars later, Taavel believes that it’s important to offer top quality ity products and professional serervice. Metropol Beauty Salon n is therefore the best place to go for hair extensions if you’re re looking for the real deal. Belli lli Capelli brand extensions are re authentic Slavic hair extensions ns that look and feel like your real eal Belli Capelli are award-winning in Russia hair. Metropol Beauty Salon on and the leading hair extension brand. also offers haircutting, styling, They are the best in Estonia. manicures, pedicures, extensions, and massage. Check out Ly Isabel tells us what you should their website for a full list of know and how to choose. services. Metropol Beauty Salon is located in the heart of the city in the Metropol hotel. Hair extensions Are all hair extensions the same? are all the rage at the moment and Hair extensions vary in origin and many salons throughout Tallinn are how they are attached to your head. offering them at different prices.

The best quality extensions are How do you know which one to Slavic hair extensions from Russia. choose, so that you don’t end up They are elastic, thin, silky, shiny, and are the best choice for people with something you’ll regret? Hair extensions should look and feel from Northern Europe. The follike your hair. Good quality extenlicles are not ruined because the sions should last long and shouldn’t extensions are made by hand. Hair require any more extra care than extensions also come from India your actual hair. You should be able and China, but they are thicker and to use your favourite shampoo and stiffer. Some places claim to offer conditioner to wash you hair, comb “Slavic hair”, when in fact it is not; through your hair easily, and sleep the difference is clear. When you with your hair down without it go for your extensions,be sure to becoming tangled. ask where they are made and for The Baltic Guide met with Ly a certificate of authenticity. Some salons buy Chinese extensions and Isabel Taavel, owner of Metropol Beauty Studio, who was the first to put them together themselvesand bring hair extensions to Estonia. call them “Slavic”.

Is real hair used?

Good quality hair extensions G are always made from real hair, ar but there are of course synthetic bu extensions and ones made from ex animal hair. Often the term an “remy” is used to distinguish “r between the different types of be extensions. This means that hair ex is attached in the same way as it grows from your scalp, with the gr root at the top. This is the right ro way to attach the extensions. wa

noticeable things about you. They reveal if you’re tired or stressed.

Many of us have dark circles or puffiness around the eyes, and as you get older fine lines and wrinkles begin to appear. The skin around your eyes is extremely delicate and it’s important to take care of it.

To help you, Vestige Verdant has developed a wonderful product, Infinity Eye Serum, that is lightweight and effective - a true fusion between high-end technology and natural ingredients.

The Infinity Eye Serum absorbs quickly and helps prevent premature ageing. The result -

your eyes look and feel rested and refreshed, regardless of how tired you actually feel. The eye serum comes in the shape of a wand with a cooling zinc alloy metal tip for application. Not only does it feel good on the skin, it feels good going on. It’s applied in circular motions under the eye and along the eyebrow ridge. Think of it like a quick massage for for you eyes.

The verdict: Vestige Verdant Infinity Eye Serum is a fantastic product that noticeably improves the skin texture around the eyes.

After a week of use, twice daily, dark circles were reduced, eyes were less puffy, and the look of fatigue was gone. It’s suitable for all skin types. ■

Vestige Verdant Infinity Eye Serum, 20 ml, €39

ESTONIAN CUISINE IN TALLINN'S OLD TOWN SQUARE

At Liisu’s December Offer Lunch or dinner for four: receive a free bottle of sparkling wine Restaurant Liisu Juures Open everyday 10-23, Raekoja plats 13, Old Town, Tallinn tel +372 6 441 983

Welcome!

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shop ■ Department

Stores Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. b3 The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store.

Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. b2 This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

■ Central Shopping

Centres

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102.

Free bus from the port.

This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America.

It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world.

Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87.

Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja).

A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants.

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2 Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques.

Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2 The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2 This modern shopping centre in the Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.

Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4.

Buses 2, 7, 15, 65.

Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn.

Magistrali Keskus, Sõpruse puiestee 201/203, Tallinn

■ Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. a3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoe stores.

Lucky Laika’s cool animal figures decorate clocks, earrings, and pendants. Find the brand at Les Petites, Hää Eesti Asi, and Krunnipea Butiik.

Pendant €11, Earrings €12, Clock €40, Krunnipea Butiik.

Estonian C

Top up Santa’s bag with fun and practical al gifts from handicr handicraft raftt store TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV, LUCKY LAIKA, JÄRVAKANDI KLAASISTUUDIO, HELE KERAAMIKA, OUTLAW MUSIC

Järvakandi glass studio is known throughout the whole of Estonia for its handmade and blown glass. Beautiful bowls and blown glass birds make a wonderful gift. Bowl €10, Bird €15. Meistrite hoov.

Juniper syrup is a delicacy from the islands that can be used in different dishes and drinks instead of sugar. Find it in most food stores for around €10.

Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2 One of Tallinn’s newer shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket.

Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2.

This modern shopping centre houses top name designer stores, great cafés and restaurants, as well as a large bookstore.

■ A bit further out Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238.

Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57.

This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well as a store for everything you might need for your sauna.

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. a3 The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area.

The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops.

Norde Centrum, Lootsi tsi 7. a3 A medium sized shopping ping centre with a sports apparel rel shop, grocery store, and more. re.

Warm up with a cup of tea. Light blue coffee or tea cup without saucer, Paul Pikk €24.

SadaMarket, Kai 5. a2 2 This has the appearance ce of a market, with many small all stalls and shops.

■ Food Markets ets Baltijaam (Train Station) ion) – Kopli 1. a1 Keskturg (Central Market) arket) – Keldrimäe 9. b3 Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45.

Free bus from the port.

A modern mall just outside of the city centre.

Kalaturg (Fish Market) et) – Kalaranna 1. a2

Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116.

Trolleys 1, 2 and 3.

A shopping centre in the west end of the city.

Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a.

Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a.

Nõmme Market – Turu ru plats 8.

Sadama Turg – Sadama a 25. a2

Drink beer from a wooden box.

90.

Starting from €54.90.

Hää Eesti Asi.

pping

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5

There is no better gift than Estonian music. Arvo Pärt’s Adam’s Lament won the 2014 Grammy for best choir performance. €18.99, Apollo.

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Last year’s Estonian Tribute to Hurriganes Get On album features Ivo Linna. €13.99, Apollo. Want to hear more Estonian music? Check out Estonian Voices and Curly Strings.

One of Estonian best bands is Ewert and the Two Dragons, who just released their new album Circles, this year. €13.99, Apollo.

Krunnipea's new location also sells Estonian designer clothing.

Christmas

es in Tallinn. Find a unique gift that you certainly ce won’t find at home.

Second Location: Krunnipea Butiik Krunnipea Butiik’s first location

in Tallinn’s Old Town is doing so well, they decided to open another location in the city centre. Owned by two best friends, Greenika Berezjuk and Tiiu Vakra, the ladies wanted to open an Estonian and Scandinavian design shop that reflected their own style. On top of the Estonian designer jewelry, accessories, and homewares, the

second location also sells clothing. At Krunnipea you will find the works of over 50 designers, like Tanel Veenre, Kaia Saarna, Woolish, and more. There are also some designers like Birgita Silberg (knitwear and clothing) and Härra Aprill (accessories) that you will only find at Krunnipea. ■

Location Müürivahe 28, Tallinn Old Town i3 Kaarli pst 7, Tallinn b1

Wooden Lifestyle’s style’s wooden n ts bowtie have won the heart hearts of Estonians. Strong and ties are on salee at durable bowties utiik €52.

Krunnipea Butiik

Handmade artisan chocolate makes a great gift. Try kama, cherry, sea buckthorn or apple. Karli ja Linda maiustused (100g), €5.90, Hää Eesti Asi.

Where to buy Apollo Bookstore, various locations in Tallinn. Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45 and Solaris Keskus, Estonia pst. 9.

Tallinn b2 Rahva Raamat, various locations in Tallinn. Viru Keskus and Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt. 102.

Lasering, Viru Keskus, Viru väljak 4.

Tallinn b2 Meistrite hoov, Vene 6.

Tallinn Old Town h2 Les Petites, Telliskivi 60a.

A handmade woolen rocking horse is a unique gift for kids. €89. Hää Eesti Asi.

Krunnipea Butiik, Müürivahe 28.

Tallinn Old Town i3.

And Kaarli pst. 7, Tallinn b1 Hää Eesti Asi, Aia 1 / Viru 23.

Tallinn Old Town h3

Choose from over 300 different frames.

Silmatera Optika Since 2014, Silmatera Optika has

offered professional optometrist services to Tallinn. Their optometrists offer over 20 years of combined experience and tend to the client’s needs.

Come for an eye test. Choose from the best frames (over 300 to choose from), lenses, and

contact lenses. They offer fast and flexible service, and believe that choosing the right glasses should be easy. ■

Location Pronksi 7, Tallinn

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nightlife

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Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

Bars & Pubs Clayhills Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town h1

Drink Baar

Cubanita is an established name in Tallinn's bar scene, but is best-known for its weekly salsa nights.

G-punkt

Photo: Cubanita Live Cafe

Nimeta Baar

T

allinn nightlife isn't only in the Old Town. There are plenty of intriguing night spots all the way down the stretch of road leading you from the edge of the Viru gates to Pirita, the seaside area of Tallinn that once hosted the 1980 Moscow Olympics' sailing segment. There's a lot to see that isn't usually discovered by the average tourist to Estonia, and not all of it's scary, or expensive, either.

X-baar Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Karaoke

Protest

Gelsomino Karaoke

Mere pst 6a, Tallinn a2

Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town g1

Põrgu

Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar

Rüütli 4, Tallinn Old Town i1

Roseni 13, Tallinn a2

The Highlander

Laif Restoran & Karaoke Club

Kuninga 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Lai 5, Tallinn Old Town g1

Cigar Lounges

Nightclubs

Chicago 1933

Butterfly Lounge

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3

Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, Tallinn Old Town h3

La Casa del Habano Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town h1

Café Amigo Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town h2

Club Baila

Estonian

Club Hollywood

Karja Kelder Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Kochi Ait Tavern Lootsi 10, Tallinn a3

Kolmas Draakon Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Seiklusjutte Maalt ja Merelt Tartu mnt 44, Tallinn b3

Valli Baar Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2 Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Club Privé Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town i1

Club Studio Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Loung Club Violet Roseni 9, Tallinn a2

Teater Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town j1

Vabank Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town j1

Live Music

Venus

Café Amigo

Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Chicago 1933 Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3

Clazz

IO Lounge: trendy lunch spot by day, polished entertainment Batcave by night.

Cubanita Live Cafe

Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

NYC Piano Bar Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Narva mnt 5, Tallinn a2

IO Restoran & Lounge Narva mnt 63/4, Tallinn a3

A short taxi-ride away from Cubanita, IO is a new night-spot, which transforms from trendy lunch hangout for the monied Kadriorg set, to a kind of polished entertainment Batcave through the kind of technology Christian Bale's Batman would have been proud of.

The floor-length windows surroun-

ding diners are obscured at night by electronically-drawn full-length curtains, that, when the mechanism has completed its work, reveal a Renaissance-style mural.

If you're at IO for a meal, the staff are courteous and serve with a sense of humour. I was a little disappointed by my main course, but of course if you're a nightlifeseeker, you will come to IO for

Rock Café Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn c4

the events, not for the food. As an event venue, IO is almost unbeatable. The vast central performance and dance area is surrounded by dining tables, with great sightlines to the action wherever you are. You will find that you can get served with drinks pretty quickly wherever you are, as staff are attentive to your needs.

Black Taverna Lounge Pirita tee 20, Tallinn

Photo: Black Taverna Lounge

We begin with a cafe that is a favourite of Tallinn-based foreigners, as well as many locals.

Cubanita is an established name in Tallinn's bar scene, but is bestknown for its weekly salsa nights.

The bar, which is situated in the gold-exterior, garish Foorum centre, actually manages to beat off its Trump Tower-style surroundings and is pretty classy when you get inside.

The cocktails are excellent, as is the salsa party. Salsa is, of course, a great way to get to know new people, as it often requires people to pair with someone they have not met before. However, it's really not awkward, if you get into the spirit of the event.

The DJing is invariably excellent, and the fact that a Tallinn bar is so long-running, in what is traditionally a city in which franchises change hands at a rate of knots, tells you a lot about the bullet-proof popularity of Cubanita.

Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn

Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town i2

The Oak Lounge

Põrgu

Narva mnt. 5, Tallinn a2

Gay

Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

TEXT STUART GARLICK

Cubanita Live Cafe

Hell Hunt Mad Murphy’s

OUTSIDE OF THE OLD TOWN

Pärnu mnt 158g, Tallinn

Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town i2 Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town g2

THE PARTY

Tapper

Step inside the dark, low-lit and intimate Black Taverna.

First-language Russian-speakers might often opt for a post-club spot like the Black Taverna, situated just next to the Song Festival Ground on the way to Pirita, although this bar is a great place for anyone to go, and we are merely stating who makes up the majority of the clientele. Step inside and it's dark, low-lit and intimate - perfect for quiet chats about

Late Night Dining Istanbul Kebab Estonia pst 7, Tallinn b2

Loca Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Söögiplats Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Taco Express Suur-Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town i2

what you've just seen, or done, on the dancefloor.

The food is the best thing at Black Taverna. No matter what time of night you arrive, you'll be greeted by waiting staff who are happy to see you, and a plate of the finest sushi you'll find after midnight. When you take into consideration the problems finding food after clubbing in the centre of Tallinn that doesn't taste like rubber, it's a welcome change to find such great meals at such an early hour of the morning. ■

✏

STUART GARLICK is a journalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn.

Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.

WWW.

.EE

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5

Restaurant & Trahter - Raekoja Plats 15 troika@troika.ee, +372 627 62 45

Cafe ÂŤTROIKAÂť - Mere pst.5 cafe@troika.ee, +372 631 37 65

New German Schnitzel Restaurant in Tallinn’s Old Town.

Free shot of liqueur when you order a schnitzel.

Pork Schnitzels, Chicken Schnitzels‌ Always up to 500g Children’s Menu Available All dishes prepared by our German chef.

New location: Rßßtli 28/30, Old Town

:JOUP[aLS /H\Z ‹ 6WLU :\U ;O\ -YP :H[ 9……[SP 6SK ;V^U ‹ ;LS ‹ ^^^ ZJOUP[aLSOH\Z LL

TELETORN BRASSERIE AND RESTAURANT New:

CHRISTMAS PARTY: A great opportunity to organise a memorable Christmas party for family, friends or colleagues.

Please get in touch and we would be more than happy to make you a great offer.

5-course Winter Menu â‚Ź35/person

Live music every Friday and Saturday

NEW YEAR’S EVE: Take part in an unforgettable 2016 gala!

At 175 metres high, spend a magical and entertaining New Year’s Eve at the Teletorn Brasserie & Restaurant!

In addition to a rich 6-course gala dinner and performances, experience an extraordinary view of Tallinn!

The party takes place 31 December at 20.00.

Price â‚Ź140!

B R ASS E R I E & R AV I N TO L A

Brasserie & Restaurant Teletorn Open daily: 10 - 23 Kloostrimetsa tee 58a, Tallinna Tel +372 5815 0020 E-mail: restoran@teletorn.ee www.teletorn.ee/restoran https://et-ee.facebook.com/ RestoranTeletorn

How to get here By bus: 34a, 38 Viru Keskus – Teletorn City Sightseeing Tallinn, green line Mere pst – Teletorn Takso24 +372 640 8927

THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD Viru 22, Tallinn, ph. +372 661 5518, www.steak.ee Eteläranta 14, Helsinki, ph. + 358 (0)504198000, www.steak.fi

12

style

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Festive Fashion!

PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV MODEL: MAARJA-LIISA KALLIT MAKEUP: MAMMU HAIR: ANETT LAISAAR / INTERSALON.EE STYLE: ŽENJA FOKIN SPECIAL THANKS TO: HORTES.EE

The Christmas spirit is already in

the air in early December and clothes are no exception! More thought goes into the details, as darker shades like grey and

bordeaux (but also cream to beige) are at the forefront. Red is in, as well as the number one material that adds a bit of glam to any outfit - sequins.

Here are some inspiring outfits, everything from party dress to chic pantsuit ensembles, so that everyday, whether in the office or at a party, is filled with joy.

Wishing you a fashionable and merry holiday season! ■

Where to buy Stockmann Liivalaia 53, Tallinn b3

Ehteäri Narva mnt 12, Tallinn a2

Ecco Viru Keskus, Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Hortes Seljaku 4b, Laagri

Marks & Spencer Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45, Tallinn

Cortefiel Viru Keskus, Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

NS King Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45, Tallinn

New Yorker Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45, Tallinn

H&M Ülemiste Keskus, Suur-Sõjamäe 4, Tallinn

Koduekstra Ülemiste Keskus, Suur-Sõjamäe 4, Tallinn

Wear-arts.com Halens.ee Expressions Viru Keskus, Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

TED BAKER cashmere coat €369 TED BAKER dress €309 (STOCKMANN) / ECCO golden shoes €99.90

Marks & Spencer bordeaux leather skirt €72.99 Marks & Spencer bordeaux blouse €47.99 New Yorker hat €12.95 New Yorker €9.95 Tamaris shoes €49.95 Daniel Wellington watch €119 Arts&Crafts bracelet €45 Arts&Crafts Avant Garde watch €107 Artificial tree €49 (Hortes)

Halens.ee trousers €44.95 Halens.ee pale blue sweater €47.90 Cortefiel sneakers €69.95 Plum’Dor earrings (STOCKMANN) €55 TRIWA watch €265 Bunnies are on sale at HORTES

H&M silver sequin dress €99 Plum’Dor handmade earrings €65

WEAR ARTS dress (wear-arts.com) €195 H&M tall suede boots €149 EXPRESSIONS earrings €7.99

Max & Co. skirt €289 (STOCKMANN) Max & Co. sweater €119 (STOCKMANN) EXPRESSIONS pendant €7.99, black and white chain €4, black necklace €6.50 ECCO leather purse €219.90 & boots €144.90

H&M sweater €19.99 H&M skirt €34.99 shoes NS King €55.95

Cortefiel blouse €49.95, leggings €29.95, handbag €79.95 EXPRESSIONS pearl necklace €3.99 Walking stick Koduextra €7.99 H&M shoes €39.99

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fashion

13

Polished Diamonds at Kaubamaja’s Shoe Department PHOTOS: MAIKEN STAAK, STYLE: LIIS PLATO

Dark tones are the trend with shoes,

which are brought to life with shiny

metallic patent leather. The shimmering sparkle of small diamonds peeking out from under the tail of a dress or trouser leg steer those that wear them directly to the party.

Winter gems

dress or skirt, why not try a flat boot or comfortable sneakers.

Winter without boots is like a film without actors. Beautiful boots for a snowy winter are one of the biggest treasures for women, which for this season come in short, tall, and extra tall. In addition to heels with a

Where to buy Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2, Tallinn b2

Boutique Moschino bag €399.99 Boutique Moschino shoes €349.99 Michael Kors wallet €169.99 Marc by Marc Jacobs hair elastics €32.99

Angelo Carutti bag €77.99 Boutique Moschino shoes €379.99 L. K. Bennett shoes €299.99 Marc by Marc Jacobs hair clips €33.99

Boutique Moschino boots €699.99 Karl Lagerfeld bag €209.99 DKNY shawl €63.99 Marc by Marc Jacobs earrings €75.9

Angelo Carutti boots €129.99 See by Chloé boots €399.99 Marc by Marc Jacobs boots €449.99 Karl Lagerfeld bag €379.99

Sacha London shoes €149.99 Sacha London shoes €129.99 DKNY wallet €84.99

Sacha London shoes €159.99 Red Valentino shoes €339.99

Marc by Marc Jacobs bag €219.99 Högl boots €259.99 HK gloves €49.99 Tamaris sneakers €79.99

Michael Kors wallet €149.99 Sacha London boots €199.99 Sauso gloves €75.99 Coccinelle bag €479.99

Weekend by Pedro Mirallese sneakers €134.99 Pedro Mirallese shoes €149.99 DKNY bag €49.99

Karl Lagerfeld bag €449.99 Gino Rossi shoes €129.99 Gino Rossi shoes €129.99

Furla bag €229.99 Marc by Marc Jacobs earrings €69.99 Albano boots €229.99 Marc by Marc Jacobs bag €399.99

Högl boots €239.99 Gino Rossi sneakers €139.99 Guess bag €99.99 Laimböck gloves €89.99

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family fun

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Christmas traditions are brought to life at the Estonian Open Air Museum.

An Old Fashioned Estonian Christmas The Christmas village at the Open Air Museum presents centuries worth of Christmas traditions.

TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM

Old log houses bring Christmas to

life at the Estonian Open Air Museum. Every building has its own story to tell, which only becomes apparent upon entering.

The village inhabitants, dressed in period clothing, talk about everyday life and traditions. Visit the Härjapea or Sepa Farms, as well at Kuie school. Gifts for Santa’s bag can be bought from the village store.

Christmas is celebrated at the Open Air Museum until 9 January.

The Christmas village is open from 18-20 December.

The Christmas market at SassiJaani farm will be open. Listen to Christmas concerts sung by the choirs at Sutlepa chapel. On Sunday 20 December at 15.00, take part in the Christmas service in the chapel.

Christmas is celebrated at the Open Air Museum until 9 January. Included in the programme are also Seto and Old Believers’ Christmas parties. Christmas food, games, and predictions for

the future will take place at both farms.

You can get to the Open Air Museum from the Balti jaam train station with buses 21 and 21B. The museum is closed 24-25 December and 31 January. ■

Location Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum), Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn.

Christmas Village 18 - 20 December

Visiting Santa Singing, dancing, and pony riding at Santa’s Farm TEKT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTO JÕULUVANA KORSTNA TALU

Visit Santa on 26 and 27 December.

Santa Claus’s Korstna Farm, located in Tõstamaa invites the whole family to visit on 26 and 27 December to meet Santa, Mrs. Claus and his elves. The family day programme runs from 12-16 and starts with a visit with the animals, meeting with the elves, and other fun games.

The youngest members of the family can enjoy a pony ride and larger groups can go

for a horse-driven sleigh ride.

Rabbits, sheep, goats, ponies, and horses also reside at the farm. Try some pancakes or other warm snacks at the cafe.

Entrance is 5.

A third family day takes place 3 January from 12.16. ■

Location Santa Claus’s Korstna Farm (Jõuluvana Korstna talu), Tõstamaa parish. Located near Maria talu, 32 km from Pärnu.

events

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15

■ Glenn Miller Orchestra

Photo: Event organiser

6 December, Nordea Concert Hall

Curly Strings NYE Concert 29 December Nordea Concert Hall Hot in the Estonian music scene, Curly Strings will put on a great concert to celebrate the end of the year. Their debut album received many awards at the Estonian Music Awards and the Golden Disc Ceremony. Tickets available at Piletilevi.

Christmas Jazz Festival 28 November - 17 December Various locations This two-week festival organises concerts throughout the city in churches, clubs, and concert halls to get you in the holiday spirit.

This year’s lineup includes Vijay Iyer Trio (USA), Antonio Sanchez and Migration (USA), Ana Moura (Portugal), Manu Delago (AustriaUK), Kellylee Evans (Canada) and many more.

Christmas Market Joy Get in the holiday spirit at the Old Town Christmas Market TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV

The Christmas market is known

for its small wooden huts, filled with handicrafts, clothes, and more. Find unique gifts to fill your stockings, like jewelry and ceramics.

Gingerbread, glögg, and other smells of Christmas food fill the square. Glögg and mulled wine are available with or without alcohol, or with different flavours like sea buckthorn or blueberry. Be sure to try traditional Christmas sausages (black pudding) with sauerkraut.

Enjoy a cultural programme every Friday from 16.00-18.00, Saturday from 17.00-19.00, and Sunday 12.00-14.00. Watch folk

Enjoy a dazzling evening of cabaret, great food and wine, and an unforgettable journey through different periods of time. A ticket includes a glass of sparkling wine, a three-part cabaret performance, a three course a la carte dinner, and free entrance to Café Amigo nightclub afterwards. Check Piletilevi for tickets and performance dates.

Photo: Event organiser

Photo: Event organiser

The world famous Glenn Miller Orchestra comes to Estonia for a truly unforgettable evening, taking you back to the days of big bands and swing. Listen to classics from Glenn Miller, Louis Armstrong, Frank Sinatra, Elvis Presley, and others.

■ Life is a Cabaret

dancing and listen to children’s choirs.

Visit Santa every day from 12.00-18.00. He’s brought along his reindeer too!

The Christmas tree in the centre of the square is truly impressive. It’s over 20 metres tall and has been brought to the square every year since 1441.

Some say it was the first of its in Europe.

Restoran Merineitsi, Tallinn

Dancing, Glamour, and Sinatra TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTO TEATER VANEMUINE

This is one of the best end of year events. Enjoy wonderful musical programme including Lele-Liis Vaikss and Olav Ehalat, the Tartu Big Band who will play a concert dedicated to Frank Sinatra, and GlamBand, who will take the party late into the night.

Tickets are available from Piletilevi and cost €50.

Vanemuise New Year’s Eve Ball (Vanemuise aastalõpuball) 30 December at 19.00. Vanemuise Concert Hall, Vanemuise 6, Tartu

■

Waltz into the New Year Location Tallinn Christmas Market (Tallinna jõuluturg), Raekoja plats 20.11.2015– 8.1.2016. Tallinn Old Town h2.

The market is open daily from 10.0019.00, and warm drinks are served until 22.00. At Christmas the market is open 12.00-15.00.

Homemade Handicraft Fair

The Estonian National Opera puts on its annual New Year’s Eve party, inviting guests to dance to the classical music of the Estonia Orchestra. Enjoy music in the theatre, concert hall, winter garden, the white hall, and café Colonbina.

Tickets are available from Piletilevi from €45-€47 Estonia Ball, 31 December at 19.30.

National Opera Estonia, Estonia pst 4, Tallinn b2.

Ring in the new year in style!

Insight into the life in Estonia during three occupations (1940-1991)

11-12 December Sakala Keskus, Viljandi This fabulous fair brings together handicraft masters and local food producers for a great weekend of traditions. Viljandi makes for a great day trip from Tallinn and is certainly worth the drive for this fair.

The Living Universe 18 November - 31 March Tallinn TV Tower Kloostrimetsa tee 58 A, Tallinn Are we alone in the universe?

This is a question that we have been asking for a long time. The exhibition “The Living Universe” seeks to answer this question in greater detail, examining the mechanics behind the origin of life, conditions on other planets and developing technology fo r c o m m u n i c a t i n g w i t h extraterrestrial life.

Tallinn’s Christmas market in the medieval Town Hall Square is one of the most beautiful in the world.

Temporary exhibitions

■ Event and Concert Tickets Tickets to just about any event or concert in Estonia can be purchased online at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro. Or, visit one of their central locations at: ■ Piletilevi: Viru Shopping Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2.

■ Ticketpro: Solaris Shopping Centre, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn B2.

■ Piletimaailm (Eesti konsert): Estonia pst 4, Tallinn B2.

Forbidden Tunes Prague through the lens of the secret police MUSEUM OF OCCUPATIONS Toompea 8, Tallinn Open 11.00 - 18.00 Phone: +372 668 0250 muuseum@okupatsioon.ee www.okupatsioon.ee

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sightseeing

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Must-see sights of the Old Town Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels

Raekoja plats

Viewing Platforms Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town.

The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arm's length. The red-tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn b1 Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church was even taller in medieval times and the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn b1 Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets.

Tallinn b1

St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik) Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath, but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea, was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town e2

Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s.

Tallinn Old Town h 1-2

The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means “look into the kitchen” in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders.

Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick.

Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn b1

Raeapteek The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location, on Town Hall Square. Tallinn Old Town h1

KGB Museum Toompea Castle The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Riigikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn b1

A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests.

The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours fill up quickly so bookings are recommended. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Hop on, Hop off Bus Tour Sometimes you just don’t have enough time to see everything, but on the Tallinn City Tour you just might. Three lines run daily, and best of all, each one passes through the Port of Tallinn, making it even more convenient. The tour operates in ten different languages and is guided by a recorded audio track that follows the sequence of the sights. One ticket is valid for 24 hours. This means that you can travel on all three routes in one day.

Katariina käik Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene.

Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants.

Tallinn Old Town h 2-3

Paks Margareeta Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 metres and the walls are up to 6.5 metres thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn, if arriving by sea.

Pikk 70, Tallinn a2

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sightseeing

17 ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Outside of the Old Town Kalamaja & Kopli Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. Since the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870, many factories

opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types have moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafés began to open, and the area continues to grow.

Area: 45,227 km2.

Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000.

Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country.

Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are nonreligious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.

Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County.

Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu.

Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

A quick history of the city of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).

Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam) Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop.

Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines

built in the UK in the mid 1930s.

Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian War of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service.

The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.

Patarei Prison (Patarei Vangla) Kalaranna 2-2a By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop.

Kadriorg Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century.

The park and the palace were built

by Peter the Great, who apparently

1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League.

1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town.

1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish.

1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn.

1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital.

1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn.

1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life.

For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as a barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park.

From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.

Pirita Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgitta’s Convent (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day in summer. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

TOURIST INFORMATION (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TVTower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only provides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district.

St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoja plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics.

1991 Tallinn becomes the capital of newlyindependent Estonia. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

■ Central Post Offices Postimaja Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2.

Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1.

Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3.

Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

■ Currency Exchange Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns.

Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn.

Holidays

Estonian Open Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn.

Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life

from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.

1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day

The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

2015/2016 School Holidays Autumn Break 17 October 2015 – 25 October 2015 Winter Break 23 December 2015 – 10 January 2016 Spring Break 19 March 2016 – 27 March 2016 Summer Break 4 June 2016 - 31 August 2016

18

museum

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5

Museums & Galleries

TALLINN ■

Museums

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum) Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18.

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18.

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, a5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17.

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum) Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, d3 www.meremuuseum.ee.

01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18.

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, f2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee.

We 10-17, Th 10-19, Fri-Su 10-17.

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee.

23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17.

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum) Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, i2 www.tmm.ee. 1.09-31.05 May, Tu-Sa 10-18. 1.06-31.08, Mo-Sa 10-18.

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, j1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/.

1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18.

1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30.

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda) L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn b4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda.

Tu-Su 12-18.

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri muuseum) Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17.

Winter by appointment only.

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum.

Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, a2 www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee.

We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18.

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU) Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19.

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, b1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18.

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum) Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, h2.

(Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum.

1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30.

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum) Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30.

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum) Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/ basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking.

Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

■ Art Museums & Galleries

Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.adamson-eric.ee. We-Su 11–18

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, a4 www.kadriorumuuseum.ee.

Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17.

May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17.

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum) Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, b4 www.mikkelimuuseum.ee.

Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17.

July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20.

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, b5 www.kumu.ee.

Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18.

May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18.

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee.

We-Su 10–17. Ticket office closes 16.30.

Exhibition at the Kumu Art Museum

11.12.2015–28.02.2016

supersymmetry

Ryoji Ikeda is a Japanese audio and visual artist whose substantial installation “supersymmetry” uses mathematical algorithms to create spatial sensations.

The work is a part of a larger series to be completed in 2014–2015.

Ryoji Ikeda. supersymmetry. 2014. Audiovisual installation. © Ryoji Ikeda. Photo by Ryuichi Maruo

kum u. e km . e e

What's on at the Occupation Museum TEXT STUART GARLICK, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

E

very visit to the Occupation Museum brings a new surprise of some description. For someone who did not live through Estonia’s Soviet occupation, it’s easy to imagine what the city of Tallinn might have looked like in Soviet times, but it’s not possible to live through those times. That’s where a place like the Occupation Museum comes in. In a modernist, glass-surrounded building at the bottom of Toompuiestee, the museum projects an understated calm, all the better for drawing attention to its exhibits.

The aim of the permanent exhibitions is to show what Estonia was like to live in, under Soviet rule. There are impressive artefacts, including paraphernalia from an old home, old cars, and of course the rogues’ gallery of Soviet political and military busts held downstairs, opposite the toilets, and sure to give you a fright when you realise how close you are to Lenin.

There are impressive artefacts, including paraphernalia from an old home, old cars, and of course the rogues’ gallery of Soviet political and military busts held downstairs.

As the photographers were not professional artists, and their concern was not getting caught, rather than taking a good photo, the details often catch the viewer by surprise.

There are lots of examples of Prague in the time of communist rule that will surprise the modern viewer, and which were caught incidentally by the lens. ■

“Prague through the Lens of the Secret Police”

Ryoji Ikeda

KUMU ART MUSEUM Weizenbergi 34 / Valge 1, Tallinn, Estonia

The aim of the permanent exhibitions is to show what Estonia was like to live in, under Soviet rule.

OPEN: Wed 11am–8pm, Thu–Sun 11am–6pm

A riveting exhibition that takes place until January 3 2016, this explores the capital of the then Czechoslovakia through the hastily-snapped camera of a series of watchers employed by the Czech security police to keep an eye on people suspected of activities against the government.

For someone who did not live through Estonia’s Soviet occupation, it’s easy to imagine what the city of Tallinn might have looked like in Soviet times, but it’s not possible to live through those times.

getting around

TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ DDEECCEEM MBBEERR 22001155

19 Ticket Information

PUBLIC TRANSPORT KOPLI

1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati

Maleva Maleva

Sirbi

The Smartcard or Ühiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet. ee. A €2 deposit is needed to purchase the Smartcard.

If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the beginning of each journey.

Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free.

Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader.

Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee

Sitsi Lõime Angerja

Madala

KALAMAJA

PÕHJA-TALLINN Ehte Volta

Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5 6 7

Trams

Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Balti jaam – Keskuse Balti jaam – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Väike-Õismäe Balti jaam – Väike- Õismäe

1 2 3 4

Balti jaam Telliskivi

Kadriorg – Kopli Ülemiste– Kopli Kadriorg – Tondi Ülemiste jaam – Tondi

Kolde puiestee Ädala

Ülase

Hipodroom

Humala

Taksopark

Pirni

Hipodroom

Zoo

Mooni Koskla

Välja Haabersti

From the driver

4 7 5

J. Poska

Balti jaam Mere pst Hobujaama L. Koidula 1, 3 Tallinna Htl. Tallinn OLD Viru Ülikool KADRIORG 6 TOWN Htl. Tallinn 1 Paberi Tehnika Tõnis3 Estonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi Keskturg Vabaduse soni MAJA väljak Tõnismägi Majaka AutobussiKoidu jaam Sikupilli Kosmos Lubja Koidu

Kelmiküla

Ristiku Sõle

Looga Mustjõe

Linnahall Port

KADRIORG

Lille

HAABERSTI

Põhja pst

Nisu

Taksopark Koskla

UUS-MAAILM

VEERENNI

Bus Station

Vineeri

Tihase Tedre

Karikakra

Õismäe PR

VäikeÕismäe

Airport

KRISTIINE

Sinilille

VÄIKE-ÕISMÄE 7 6 Väike- ÕISMÄE

Löwenruh Linnu tee

Aiandi

Nurmenuku

TallinnVäike

2 Ülemiste

E-tickets ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

1 hour ticket 1 day (24h) 3 days (72h) 5 days (120h) 30 days

€1.10 €3 €5 €6 €23

Sääse

Kullerkupu

TONDI

Siili

A. H. Tammsaare tee

1 3 5

MUSTAMÄE

Kaja

Szolnok

Tondi

3, 4

MUSTAMÄE

Mustamäe

4 Ülemiste jaam

ÜLEMISTE JAAM

Marja

Sinilille

Majaka põik

ÜLEMISTE

VäikePae Paala

■ single ticket €1.60 ■ student ticket €0.80 Try to have exact change for the driver. Cards are not accepted. The ticket is valid for one journey only on that specific vehicle. Discounts are only available to ISIC cardholders.

Where to buy ■ ■ ■ ■

Lepistiku

Akadeemia tee KESKUSE Männi Vambola Mustamäe Liivaku Keskuse 9 4 Raja Keemia Ehitajate tee

JÄRVE

from the driver from kiosks from post offices online www.pilet.ee (Top up your smartcard with MasterCard or Visa)

TALLINN CITY TOUR PIRITA

Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus.

Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages.

Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

Free ■ preschool children ■ adult travelling with children 3 years and under ■ holders of a validated Tallinn Card

LASNAMÄE KOPLI port

KALAMAJA ROCCA AL MARE

PELGULINN MERIMETSA

OLD TOWN

VEERENNI

KADRIORG

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square.

Tickets 19€ www.citytour.ee

6-118-000 11-800 (+€0.74 / min)

www.pilet.ee, info@pilet.ee

■ Useful Phrases please.................................................. palun thank you .......................................... aitäh, tänan excuse me ......................................... vabandage hello..................................................... tere, tervist good morning ................................. tere hommikust good day............................................ tere päevast good evening .................................. tere õhtust good night ........................................ head ööd goodbye ............................................ nägemist, head aega all the best......................................... kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.............................. head reisi bon appetite .................................... jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ................... terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab?

Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on…

What is this?......................................... mis see on?

What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab?

How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate?

How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on?

I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

20

transport

MBBEERR 22001155 TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ DDEECCEEM

TALLINN

Photo: Margus Johanson

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

■ By bus: Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

■ Phone calls There are no city codes in Estonia.

Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372.

Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

■ Free WiFi Ye s , t h a t ’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

■ Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE and EMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h) ■ Taxis

From the bus station to the city: ■ tram no. 2, 4 ■ bus no. 17, no. 23

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero.

■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists.

■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways.

■ All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night.

■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged.

■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid further penalty.

■ By sea: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

Car Hire You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at Tallinn Airport: ■ Budget – www.budget.ee ■ Europcar – www.europcar.ee ■ Hertz – www.hertz.ee ■ National – www.europcar.ee ■ Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee.

■ ■ ■ ■

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

■ By train: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

Parking Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso.

A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

P

Parking in Tallinn can be confusing. There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots.

The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time – placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle.

This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.

CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN: 0,30 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fr 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

DOWNTOWN / SÜDALINN: 0,75 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fi 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

OLD TOWN / VANALINN: 1,20 / 15 minutes Paid parking around the clock Parking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn.

For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parkingin-Tallinn

■ By air: Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K

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A. Alle A4 Aasa C1 Adamsoni B1 Ahtri A2 Aia A2 Aida F1 A. KapiB1 Ao B1 Asunduse B4 Bensiini A4 Eha B1 Endla B1 Estonia pst B2 Faehlmanni B3-A4 Falgi tee B1 Filtri tee C3 Gildi B3 Graniidi A1 Hariduse B1 Harju I1-J1 Hermanni B3 Herne C2 Hobujaama A2 Imanta B3 Inseneri A2 Invaliidi C2 Jakobi B3 Jakobsoni B3 Jõe A3 Juhkentali B3 Kaarli pst B1 Kai A2

Tuukri A3 Tuulemäe C4 Tuvi B1 Ülemiste tee C4 Uue Maailma C1 Uus F3-H3 Vabriku A1 Väike-Ameerika C1 Väike-Karja I2 Vaikne C2 Vaimu F2 Valgevase A1 Vana-kalamaja A1 Vana-Lõuna C2 Vana-Posti I1-I2 Vana-Viru H3 Vase A3-B3 Veerenni C2 Veetorni B1 Vene F3-H2 Vesivärava A3 Videviku C1 Villardi B1 Vilmsi B4 Virmalise C1 Viru A2 Võistluse C3 Weizenbergi A4 Wiedemanni B4 Wismari B1

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