D E C E M B E R 2 0 14
Best beauty buys in Tallinn Estonian gift guide Art Deco Fashion Design at KUMU New restaurants in Kalamaja
Christmas Fun Nightlife: New Year's Eve â€“ where to celebrate in Tallinn
Your free guide to Estonia
what The best things where to seedoandin when Estonia
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 4
Estonian Christmas and a tradition that dates back 350 years
hristmas is one of the most important holidays in Estonia. It is a mixture of traditional and modern, of religious and non-religious. Due to the many occupations of Estonia, Christmas celebrations in Estonia have been influenced by many different cultures. Like in most of Northern Europe, Estonians celebrate Christmas on Christmas Eve (24 December). In the folk calendar, Christmas began on St. Thomas’s Day (21 December) and lasted until Epiphany (6 January). Christmas holidays were celebrated from 25-27 December, with 24 December being the most important day. The word jõulud (Christmas) comes from the word Jul, a word that has no connection to Christianity. Scandinavia and Estonia are the only areas in Europe where Christmas is still referred to by a pre-Christian word. The word näärid, of German origin, was also used to mark the holiday. It was the only official seasonal holiday during the Soviet period. Otherwise, New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day were celebrated at the time and Christmas was celebrated unofficially in the privacy of one’s home.
These days Santa brings gifts on the night of 24 December, a relatively new tradition that has become widely adopted. The Christmas tree is also a rather recent addition to Estonian Christmas symbols and came here through German culture in the mid 19th century. The tree was decorated very simply with toys and treats, then later candles. Every year, on 24 December, the President of Estonia declares Christmas Peace. This is a 350-yearold tradition that began in the 17th century by the order of Queen Kristina of Sweden. Traditional Estonian Christmas food includes pork with sauerkraut and blood sausage. There are many opportunities to try traditional Estonian Christmas food while visiting this December. Many restaurants have special Christmas menus on offer. And no visit to Estonia in winter is complete without a mug of glögg or mulled wine.
Contents 3 editorial 5-6 sightseeing
8 restaurants: Tokumaru Le Chateau New restaurants in Kalamaja Kassikohvik Nurri, Tallinn's first cat café Estonian Burger Factory
Kristina Lupp Editor-in-chief
December Highlights 01 GINGERBREAD ART The annual Tallinn Gingerbread Mania exhibit is a sure sign that Christmas is just around the corner. This year’s exhibit is called the Toy Museum. The exhibit runs from 18 December to 8 January at the Tallinn Design and Architecture Gallery (Pärnu mnt 6).
02 TAKE TO THE SLOPES! Tallinn’s best tobogganing hill is without a doubt the long steep hill at the Song Festival Grounds. When there is lots of snow, part of the hill is also turned into a snowboard park with a lift.
03 GREEN CHRISTMAS ROCK Rakvere will rock on 27 December at the Green Christmas event, which has been organized since 1996! The Christmas-themed rock festival brings together the best of the current Estonian bands. Find out more information on Facebook.
04 CHRISTMAS CITY TARTU
shopping 10 entertainment 12-13 shopping 14 family fun 15 beauty 16 december events 18 museum 19 getting around 20 transport 21-22 maps and information n
The Tartu Christmas Market runs from 5-7 December at the convention centre (Kreutzwaldi 60). Handicrafts, toys, clothes, jewellery, books, and much more will be available for sale. The Tartu Town Hall Square Christmas Market changes the city into a Christmas city from 30 November to 24 December.
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Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp firstname.lastname@example.org Contributors: Maarja-Liisa Mahla Design: Evelin Linholm Photography: Andrei Chertkov Printing House: AS Kroonpress
PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones,
O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seitse Merd Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel
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In the heart of the Old Town is the Harju Street Skating rink. The best time to come is after dark and skate on the illuminated rink among the medieval buildings. Skates can be rented on-site. The rink is open from 10.00-22.00 daily.
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Must-see sights of the Old Town TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick. Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn B1.
Viewing Platforms Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arms length. The red tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn B1. Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church was even taller in medieval times and the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn B1. Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets. Tallinn B1.
Photo: Lembit Michelson
Raeapteek The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location, in the Town Hall Square. Tallinn Old Town H1. Photo: Anneli Tandorf
Raekoja plats Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s.
Toompea Castle The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Riigikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn B1.
Tallinn Old Town H 1-2.
Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene. Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants. Tallinn Old Town H 2-3.
Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels
St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik) Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath, but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea, was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town E2.
The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means, “look into the kitchen”
Paks Margareeta Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 metres and the walls are up to 6.5 metres thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn, if arriving by sea. Pikk 70,Tallinn A2.
Hop on, Hop off Bus Tour
Town Hall Square
Kiek in de kök
A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests. The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours fill up quickly so bookings are recommended. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.
Sometimes you just don’t have enough time to see everything, but on the Tallinn City Tour you just might. Three lines run daily, and best of all, each one passes through the Port of Tallinn, making it even more convenient. The tour operates in ten different languages and is guided by a recorded audio track that follows the sequence of the sights. One ticket is valid for 24 hours. This means that you can travel on all three routes in one day. If you purchase a 24-hour Tallinn Card then your journey on the Tallinn City Tour is free.
■ Pick up the Tallinn Card (available from Tourist Information Kiosks and the A & D terminals at the port) for free entrance to many museums, free use of Tallinn city transportation, including the Hop on, Hop off bus (don’t forget to swipe the card), and further discounts all around town. www.tallinncard.ee
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ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE Area: 45,227 km2. Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000. Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country. Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are non-religious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.
Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County. Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu. Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).
A quick history of the city of Tallinn
Outside of the Old Town TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
Kalamaja & Kopli Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. Since the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870, many factories opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafés began to open, and the area continues to grow .
Patarei Prison (Patarei Vangla) Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.
Kalaranna 2-2a By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail, just before the Seaplane Harbour.
1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town.
by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.
Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail.
The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).
1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn.
Pirita Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre and offers a variety of things to see and do. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. A stroll through the ruins and the surrounds, including the small cemetery, is a moving reminder of the past. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day in summer. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only provides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district. A starting point for information on these can be found at:
1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.
■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070
St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn.
TOURIST INFORMATION Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoja plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu
1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes Estonia's capital. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.
■ Central Post Offices Postimaja Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2. Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1. Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3. Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla
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Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam) Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines built in the UK in the mid 1930s. Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian War of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service. The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI
Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century. The park and the palace were built by Peter the Great, who apparently helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.
Estonian Open Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.
Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn.
Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.
Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.
Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day
The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.
2014/2015 School Holidays Christmas break 20 December 2014- 4 January 2015 Spring Break 14-22 March 2015 Summer Break 4 June - 31 August 2015
International routes from 6.60 EUR*
Estonian internal routes from 5 EUR*
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Good stock Tokumaru feeds Estonia’s love affair with Japanese cuisine. The bouillon is the base of the soup. It cooks for seven to eight hours. The noodles are made in house from Estonian wheat flour. The miso paste is also made here. “The recipe is 36 years old. It is traditional, yet modern.” Daigo couldn’t tell me more because it was a secret recipe. Tokumaru serves five different types of ramen, which range in price from 7.80 - 9,80. Smaller portions are also available, or in combination with sushi.
japan TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV
New restaurants in Kalamaja Foody Allen Frenchy Kivi Paber Käärid Telliskivi 60a, Tallinn A1. The Telliskivi complex continues to grow with trendy restaurants popping up almost monthly. Recently opened is the street food themed Foody Allen. It offers street food from around the globe. Frenchy, which opened its doors at the end of November, is serving a French menu of course – a welcome addition to the Tallinn dining scene. Kivi Paber Käärid, or Rock Paper Scissors, will open at the beginning of December and focus on gluten free dishes.
It was a Daigo Takagi’s dream right from the beginning to open a Japanese restaurant in Tallinn, and thanks to the success of Momo (the place to get all things Japanese), this dream has become a reality. The story is very familiar, Daigo came to Tallinn six years ago to study and fell in love with Estonia. “Estonians are very honest and shy people, very similar to Japanese people”, he explained in perfect Estonian. “We want to show people that there is more to Japanese food than sushi. When we opened the restaurant, we didn’t even want to serve sushi”, Daigo told me. For those that love sushi, don’t worry; Tokumaru has a small sushi menu too. I tried the Aburi salmon. The salmon is served over rice and is cooked very slightly on one side. The result is a slightly caramelised
Ramen at Tokumaru
piece of salmon that melts in your mouth, and is topped with a thin lemon slice. Ramen has become popular all over the world, though it’s just starting to reach us here in Estonia, thanks to Tokumaru. According to Daigo, ramen has
Christmas cheer, French style Restoran Le Chateau continues in the tradition of the Musketeers.
Kassikohvik Nurri Tartu mnt 24, Tallinn B3. Tallinn now has its very own cat café. This is where you can come and enjoy a coffee or tea, light lunch or dessert, in the company of cats. The café has ten friendly cats that live in it, and guests are expected to follow simple rules, like not feeding the cats from your plate or waking a sleeping cat.
not even made it to Helsinki, but Finns do know what it is. Ramen is soup. It is a homestyle food that seems very simple when it is put together, but the different elements of the dish take a long time to prepare. Ramen has four parts: the bouillon, the noodles, the sauces, and the toppings.
gourmet TEXT MIKKO SAVIKKO, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
Enjoy a wonderful candlelit meal under the arches of this 17th century French restaurant. The menu offers many wonderful dishes for the holiday season. Start you dinner with a warm ginger and rum drink. The servers are dressed in period costume and bring the food to the table on large platters. The three different Christmas menus are named after the Three Musketeers. One menu includes six appetisers and two to four warm main dishes, together with one or two desserts. The paté has been made with gingerbread, and while the turnips are not baked, as one would expect,
The restaurant is located on the second floor of the Solaris shopping centre, just above the cinema. The minimalist décor suits the restaurant well, leaving nothing to distract you from the food, well, except maybe the open kitchen and the wall of windows offering a lovely view over the street. ■
Location Tokumaru Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn B2. (Inside Solaris Shopping Centre)
stewed in cream, they make a delicious accompaniment. A smoky flavoured fig sauce is served with the roast pork, and the oven roasted potatoes are flavoured with orange and garlic. The saffron sauce pairs well with the oven baked salmon. Coffee is served together with the dessert, but you can also order a French digestif. The special Christmas menus can be ordered ahead of time for groups of six or more. Le Chateau can accommodate up to 130 guests. The Christmas menus cost between 31-40 per person. ■
Location Restoran Le Chateau Lai 19. Tallinn Old Town F2.
Estonian Burger Factory Pärnu mnt 41a, Tallinn B1-2. The gourmet burger trend has a really taken off in Tallinn. We finally had a chance to go and try the burger place everyone has been talking about and here’s the verdict: tasty burgers, but be warned, they are big! The menu offers many different kinds of burgers, including the “Angus and Black Bread”, which adds a bit of an Estonian twist.
Le Chateau offers a French Christmas feast!
New German Schnitzel Restaurant in Tallinnâ€™s Old Town.
Free shot of liqueur when you order a schnitzel.
Pork Schnitzels, Chicken Schnitzelsâ€Ś Always up to 500g Childrenâ€™s Menu Available All dishes prepared by our German chef.
New location: RĂźĂźtli 28/30, Old Town
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THE BEST STEAK YOUâ€™VE EVER HAD Viru 22, Tallinn, ph. +372 661 5518, www.steak.ee EtelĂ¤ranta 14, Helsinki, ph. + 358 (0)504198000, www.steak.fi
RAEKOJA PLATS 15 TEL. +372 627 6245 MONâ€“SUN 10â€“23 WWW.TROIKA.EE Live music every night!
FROM RUSSIA...WITH LOVE
BRASSERIE & RESTAURANT TELETORN
Winter special menu
Welcome to the highest restaurant in Northen Europe! Please book ahead!
â€œWe were a group of 42 people and we decided to visit the Estonia Concert Hall. On the way back to the hotel, we stumbled upon the Beer Garden, a restaurant in the Old Town. They had a great selection of beers and fantastic food, but the best part was that we got to sit together at one big table! We danced until we could dance no more! Some of us even partied until morning and did not even make it back to the hotelâ€Śâ€? Jane, 36; London
New Yearâ€™s Eve Gala 2015! 31 December
Brasserie & Restaurant Teletorn Open daily: 10 - 23 Kloostrimetsa tee 58a, Tallinn Tel +372 5815 0020 E-mail: email@example.com www.teletorn.ee/restoran
How to get here By bus: 34a, 38 Viru Keskus â€“ Teletorn City Sightseeing Tallinn, green line Mere pst â€“ Teletorn Takso24 +372 640 8927
Aia 10 / Inseneri 1, Old Town, Tallinn firstname.lastname@example.org Ph.: +372 688 0013; Mob.:+372 565 2004 Fri - Sat 10.00-05.00, Sun - Thur 10.00-00.00
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Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:
NYC Piano Bar Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.
Ring in the New Year!
Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn.
Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1.
Countdown to 2015!
Drink Baar Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.
Hell Hunt Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2.
Gelsomino Karaoke Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town G1.
Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar Roseni 13, Tallinn A2.
t’s New Year’s Eve, you’re in Tallinn, and you’re looking for something to make your night the most memorable of the year. Allow us to take you through a clutch of places that will provide the party, so all you have to do is bring good spirits and have a great time. There are parties going on all over Tallinn, but the ones you want to be at are where you can enjoy yourself among people who are like you, and people you like. Usually in The Baltic Guide, we suggest a route for your night out. This being New Year’s Eve, it’s far more likely you will head to the best party and then stay there. Take a look at our best parties for people who love to party with the hot people, the luxury-lovers and the hipsters. One warning: as with any city, if you’re going to eat out, book a table; most places will be full when it comes to the day itself.
Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2.
The Hot People: Butterfly Lounge
The Hipsters: Sinilind
Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1.
Müürivahe 50, Tallinn Old Town I2.
Nimeta Baar Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2.
CatHouse Tartu mnt 17, Tallinn B3.
Vabaduse väljak 10, Tallinn Old Town J1.
Viru väljak 4 Tallinn B2.
Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3.
La Casa del Habano Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town H1.
Sigari Maja Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town H2.
Café Amigo Club Hollywood Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.
Club Münt Mürivahe 22, Tallinn Old Town I2.
Vana-Viru 13/Aia 4, Tallinn Old Town H3.
Thanks in part to the closure of some other excellent bars, but also due to good management, Butterfly Lounge has taken on some excellent staff and kept a good reputation for food and drinks that make you feel a million euros, on a mid-range budget. The great thing about Butterfly is the decor - the pastel blues and pinks lift the mood and make customers feel so much happier than they would in some of the dark, drab bars of elsewhere in the Old Town. The other great thing is that about 97 of the clientele are unbelievably gorgeous, making the place a feast for the eyes if you’re a peoplewatcher. Male and female bar-staff get into the swing of things too, wearing pink shirts and seeming like the happiest bartenders in all of Estonia. There is usually live music from a major local music act, with excellent acoustics meaning it’s easy to talk while the band plays on, but also to hear every word sung, if you’re a music-lover. The food is good, although not up there with the best Tallinn has to offer; pre-closure and reopening, Clazz (Vana Turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2) offered the best main course at around 20, but this reviewer has not returned since its relaunch so cannot compare menus any longer. The beef tartar at Butterfly is a treat, melting on the tongue as the egg yolk intermingles with the meat. It is nonetheless with cocktails that Butterfly thrills. The extensive menu of global favourites and celebrity-endorsed tipples will help any New-Year reveller to feel in the mood for dancing.
Butterfly Lounge, although not by any means a ”gay bar”, is very gay-friendly, refreshingly so in Tallinn, a city that has often seemed behind-the-times when it comes to gay culture.
The Luxury-Lovers: Vabank Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1.
Vabank Klubi is the place to be if you want to be in with the incrowd, and go where the in-crowd goes. Though it has a reputation among twentysomethings for being for the slightly older party animal, that’s not really true any longer - you will find plenty of people from early twenties up enjoying themselves. Don’t be surprised to be charged a big admission fee to get in, but when you are in, you will find very welldressed beautiful people, in a more chilled club than neighbouring Prive (Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town J1), or the sweaty-youth Mecca that is Club Hollywood (VanaPosti 8, Tallinn Old Town I1). The laid-back attitude is reflected by (expensive) seating areas where groups of around ten can recline on comfy sofas and share bottles of wine. For an extra few euros you can have access to the VIP area, accessible behind a sliding door. This is a luxury worth paying for if you come to Vabank; you will want a quiet place to dance or sit with your friends, away from the crowds of the main club. For the chosen few, there is also the Bankowners’ cigar club downstairs, although you need a special card to get in there, and it’s by invitation of the club’s management only. Whether you think of yourself as a Justin Timberlake or a Jordan Belfort, you’ll find a calm, sexy crowd and the biggest tunes in Vabank.
If you’re not an aspirational socialclimber and you just want to have good, dressed-down fun with your friends, you’re best-off going to Sinilind, a place we’ve mentioned before, but which comes into its own on New Year’s Eve. This reporter went in there for an hour or so at 1am on New Year’s Eve 2013, and did not emerge until 4.30am, so electrifying was the music being played, particularly in an old-school hiphip set in one of the smaller rooms. There are few musical boundaries in Sinilind; you are unlikely to hear cheesy chart hits, but you will hear something that kicks your night up a notch. If all that dancing gets too much for you and your companions, you can retire to the cute little cafe area, where cakes are served throughout the opening hours. The dress code is ”come as you are”, although it always helps to wear a cool hat or a statement shirt or dress - just keep it playful, not overly fancy or designer.
Fireworks: Vabaduse Väljak (Freedom Square) Tallinn Old Town J1.
Wherever you spend New Year’s Eve, make absolutely sure you step out into Vabaduse Väljak for the annual firework display and street party, where you are sure to meet great new friends, and where the cold of the Estonian winter seems, for a few stolen moments, not to matter any longer. ■
✎ Stuart Garlick is a journalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn. Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.
Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.
Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.
Kochi Ait Tavern
Lootsi 10, Tallinn A3.
Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2.
Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town H2.
Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2.
Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.
Pärnu mnt 158G, Tallinn.
Teater Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1.
Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.
Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1.
Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3.
Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.
Clazz Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2.
New in Tallinn Le Popup Rotermanni 5, Tallinn A2. Tallinn’s latest cocktail bar offers a great selection of inventive cocktails. Snacks are inspired by Mediterranean and Latin American flavours. A great place to start the evening or enjoy a relaxed night out.
Domingo Vinoteek & Lounge Mardi 1, Tallinn B3. Located just a little ways from the Old Town, Domingo has joined Tallinn’s wine bar scene. We haven’t had a chance to go and check it out yet, but from what we’ve heard, they offer a great selection of wines, cocktails, and food.
Club Poseidon Mere pst 20, Tallinn A2. Club Poseidon markets themselves as the only club in Tallinn with a sea view, and it’s true. They are located right next to the Soviet era built Linnahall. The club has two large rooms, as well as a stage.
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“We were a group of 42 people and we decided to visit the Estonia Concert Hall. On the way back to the hotel, we stumbled upon the Beer Garden, a restaurant in the Old Town. They had a great selection of beers and fantastic food, but the best part was that we got to sit together at one big table! We danced until we could dance no more! Some of us even partied until morning and did not even make it back to the hotel…” Jane, 36; London
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■ Department Stores
Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. B3. The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store. Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. B2. This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.
■ Central Shopping
Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2. Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques. Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2. The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2. This modern shopping centre in the newly renovated Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.
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Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt nt 102. Free bus from the port. This massive centre was completed ompleted in 1998 and resembles a large rge mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from om food to fashion, Marks & Spencer er to a children’s play world. Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt nt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), mägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja). A small shopping centre located ocated near the airport that houses es fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, hops, and restaurants. Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65. Located close to the airport, rt, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn.
Northern winters Northe mean we need dress warmly. to dr Choose good Cho quality fabrics qu and choose an something so practical yet pr stylish, like this sty Many classic boyish look. M can look great men’s styles ca too. on women to Gant 138€ Sweater: Gan Gant 168€ Trousers: Gan Bomber jacket: jacke 648€ Hat: Gant 99€ 225€ Scarf: Mulberry: 22 Boots: Gant 228€ available at Watch: Michael Kors av Goldtime 375€
This black and whitee blouse really stands out when set against a blue skirt and bright red bag. Adding a bit of colour our to your outfit in winter brightrightens up simple style. tyle.
Blouse: Zara 49.95€ .95€ Skirt: Gant nt 198€ Boots: ts: Gant 439€ Bag: Mulberry lberry 1350€ Necklace (lava a stone and Swarovski crystal): Plum um ‘Or 180€ Leather bracelet: Plum um D’Or 50€
■ Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. A3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoes can be found as well.
Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2. One of Tallinn’s newest shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket. Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2. Twenty years ago the site of this shopping centre was nothing but a parking lot, right beside the Hotell Viru. In 2004, it turned into a modern shopping complex with over 100 stores.
Merekeskus, Mere pst 10.. A3. The Merekeskus is the oldest est shopping centre in the area. ea. The two-level complex housess many clothing stores and souvenir nir shops.
■ A bit further out
Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7.. A3. A medium sized shopping g centre with a sports apparel shop, p, grocery store, and more.
Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57. This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well as a store for everything you might need for your sauna.
SadaMarket, Kai 5. A2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.
■ Food Markets Baltijaam (Train Station)) – Kopli 1. A1. Keskturg (Central Market) et) – Keldrimäe 9. B3. Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port. A modern mall just outside of the city centre. Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3. A shopping centre in the west end of the city.
Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. A2. Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a. Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a. Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8. Sadama Turg – Sadama 25. A2.
December is always a busy Dec time with holiday parties after work. Save time by wearing work something that is appropriate somet for both the office and the party. During the day, dress your outfit For the evening, change you down. Fo make-up, and dress your outfit up make-up different accessories. with a dif Gant: 368€ (40% wool) Dress: Gan Gant: 339.90€ Boots: Gan box/bag: Goldtime 180€ Jewellery b DYRBERG/KERN available at Necklace: D Ehteäri 199€ Watch (with diamonds): Balmain Goldtime 889€ available at G TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
Just because it’s cold outside, doesn’t mean you have to hide under a parka. This season’s styles are both practical, and stylish. Stylist Ženja Fokin shows us this winter’s hottest trends, for both the office and the evening. ■
A brightly coloured coat can add a modern twist to a classic style, like this riding look. Dress up the outfit with big earrings and a bit of gold. Sweater: Gant 52€ Trousers: Gant 118€ Coat: Zara 139€ Boots: Gant 348€ Bag: Mulberry 860€ Necklace: Plum D’Or 120€ Earrings (mink & silver): Plum D’Or 45€
Where to buy: Ehteäri Narva mnt 12, Tallinn A2. Gant Pärnu mnt 10, Tallinn B2. Goldtime Viru Keskus Viru väljak 4, Tallinn A2.
Mulberry Suur-Karja 2, Tallinn Old Town I2. Plum D’Or Suur-Karja 2, Tallinn Old Town I2.
Zara Viru Keskus VIRU VALJAK 4, Tallinn A2. Ulemiste Suur Sojamae 4, Tallinn C5.
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Made in Estonia
shopping TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
13 At first glance they just appear to be cufflinks, but these accessories are made with recycled clock mechanisms. Bio[loogiline]kell Cufflinks, €30, Les Petites
Souvenirs from your travels not only make lovely mementos, but they also make great gifts. With h the h holidays h ld just around the corner, why not get your Christmas shopping done early with our all-Estonian gift guide.
From far away, you wouldn’t even know that this bowtie was made out of wood. Made from 3-D laminated plywood with birch, walnut, and oak, this piece is finished with natural wax. lum Wooden Bow Tie, €39, Nu Nordik
Spruce up your kitchen with Estonian design! KitchenZoo linen kitchen towels, €12, €14, & €16, Nu Nordik
These are Estonia’s favourite sprats, and typical national cuisine. Tallinn Smoked Sprats, 100g €2.50, Hää Eesti Toit
There is more to Estonia than Tallinn’s n’s Old Town, this new book Terhi PääskyläkyläEstonians aren’t always so serious, in Malmström takes the reader on an fact there are enough Estonian jokes unconventional tour of Estonia. Extreme Estonia – An unconvento fill two books! tional guidebook, €17.79, Estonia Jokes & Estonian Jokes, Rahva Raamat Volume Two, €7, Slothrop’s
Protect your tablet and the environment with the sleeves made from recycled fire hose. HoseWear iPad and iPad Mini sleeves, €28 & €34, Nu Nordik
Designer Reet Aus is the queen of upcycling. T-shirts are light to carry in your case and practical. Up-Shirt by Reet Aus, €40-€45, Nu Nordik Keep your cards organised and looking good. Waltin Card Sleeve, €9, Les Petites
Try this rich duck liver pate with some crispy bread chips –perfect for easy holiday entertaining. Duck and Apple Paté, 150g €4.20, €4.2 Hää Eesti Toit White Wh Bread Chips, 100g €3.10, Hää Eesti Toit You don’t need to go hunting to have a taste of Estonian game. Smoked and Dried Moose Sausage, 210g Sm €14.20, Hää Eesti Toit €14
Stylish and cute ute –this jumper comes es in different colours urs with differentt prints. Dadamora Children’s Top, €24, Les Petites
Sea buckthorn is not ot only rich in vitamins, butt tastes good too, especiallyy in schnapps form. Sea buckthorn schnapps, hnapps, €22.80, Hää Eesti Toit
Where to buy Nu Nord Nordik, Vabaduse väljak 8, Tallinn Old Town Hää Eesti Toit, Viru 3, Tallinn Old Town Slothrop’s English Language Bookstore, Sl th ’ E Pikk 34, Tallinn Old Town Les Petites, Telliskivi 60a, Tallinn Rahva Raamat, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn (Viru Centre 3rd & 4th floor)
The not-so-small design shop Les Petites has been bringing the best of Estonian (and Scandinavian) design to Tallinn since 2009. Petites Disain & Vintage. Elena started making jewellery when As with most great business ideas, she fell pregnant, then decided they usually begin when you least to continue with it instead of expect it. This was certainly the returning to her old job. “I was case for Elena Volk, owner of Les making jewellery next door (to their current location in Telliskivi), and my friends were making things too”. And so the idea was born –a common place for designers to sell their goods. The concept soon became very popular. “I only sell things I, myself, would wear or Elena Volk, owner of Les Petites use”, she explains. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
“In the beginning I was going to design fairs, looking for local designers. I would hand out flyers. Designers could find me on our website and submit examples of their work there”. With over 60 designers now showcasing their goods at Les Petites, I wondered how she chooses. “On any given day I have four to five people coming in to show me their designs, looking for a spot on the shelves at Les Petites”. Of course Elena cannot accept everything. “I look for things that suit the style of our shop”. Les Petites does not just showcase Estonian design. The shop is filled with Scandinavian furniture. In the corner, there is the Stålhästen pop-up bike space. Elena
herself loves vintage Japanese dresses. There is a rack of these as well. “We also house guest designers for two to three months at a time and organise special events”. Elena is still designing jewellery, including the Bio:loogiline:kell line of women’s jewellery and men’s accessories she designs together with Kadri Tulev. “We often have people contacting us from abroad, asking if
we can send items to them. Many people have come into the shop, fallen in love with a particular item and then regretted not buying it. With this is mind, we will soon be opening a web shop”. Keep upto-date with what is going at Les Petites via their Facebook page. ■
Location Les Petites Disain & Vintage Telliskivi 60a, Telliskivi Loomelinnak, Tallinn A1.
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A traditional Estonian Christmas Learn about Estonian Christmas traditions of the past at the Estonian Open Air Museum’s Christmas Village.
TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV
The tour is based on the life of an energetic Estonian lady, Aliine Tamm. The journey begins at Köstriaseme Farm in 1895, where Aliine’s mother is about to give birth to her. A traditional Christmas is being prepared for.
Typical Christmas traditions for 1932, or the first period of Estonian independence are shown at the Härjapea House. These include, a Christmas tree, the preparation of tasty foods, and sharing of presents. The Soviet period brought radical change to Estonian Christmas traditions. Instead of celebrating Christmas in the 1960s, the New Year was celebrated; and instead of Father Christmas, there was Father Frost. In the 1980s, Christmas was cour-
ageously celebrated again, though only the privacy of one’s home. In the idyllic Sutlepa Chapel, choir concerts and Christmas prayers on Saturdays and Sundays are held. There is a Christmas market in the Sassi-Jaani Farm, and you can taste Christmas foods at the Kolu Kõrts. ■
How to get there Take busses 21 and 21B from the Baltijaam Train Station. Christmas Village 19-21 December Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn.
White bears and other wonders of the animal world The Tallinn Zoo is the kingdom of polar bears, elephants, chimpanzees, and rhinoceroses. TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV
In winter you can see many strange sights at the zoo, like Amur leopards in the snow. If you need to warm up, you can visit the tropical house, where you will see Betty, Pino, and Quincy, the zoo’s three chimpanzees. This year’s new attraction was the Amur leopard cubs born in April, who often come to meet the visitors behind the glass window. The snow does not bother Dora, Freddo, and Muusi in their large pen.
The Tallinn Zoo is fun, both in summer, and winter.
At the west gates, a new nature centre opened in spring, where you will find a shop, nature centre, toilets, and children’s zoo, where kids can meet rabbits, guinea pigs, and chickens. Previously, the children’s zoo was only open in summer. For a thorough visit of the zoo, you should leave at least three
hours, or even then entire day. The large zoo will certainly tire youngsters out, so the zoo provides strollers. The zoo also has wooden carts. The ticket counter is open 9.0015.00 in winter. You can stay in the zoo up to two hours after closing, or until 17.00. Adult tickets cost 4, and children’s tickets cost 2. A family pass also allows access to the nearby Open Air Museum. The family pass costs 12. ■
How to get there Take trolley number 6 from in front of Kaubamaja or trolley number 7 from Baltijaam Train Station, as well as busses 21, and 21B. Bus 22 leaves from Vabaduseväljak (Freedom Square). Get off at the Zoo stop. Tallinn Zoo (Tallinn Loomaaed), Paldiski mnt145 / Ehitajate tee 150, Tallinn.
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Modern Beauty Specialised procedures, professional service, and a comfortable atmosphere are just some of the reasons Freya Estetica stands out from the rest. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV
Non-invasive beauty treatments are becoming more and more common. Women, and men, don’t have the time to take a few days from work to recover from a beauty procedure. The No-Needle Mesotherapy procedure for example, takes just an hour and a half, and offers you relaxation as well. Freya Estetica is located in Tallinn’s city centre, right on the edge of the Old Town. While they have a regular client base, stepping in as a first time client, I felt right at home. Depending on which procedure you are trying, you will have to fill out some forms, including a short questionnaire. This is to make sure that the treatment you are undergoing is suitable and that you will get the best results. I tried the No-Needle Mesotherapy, a procedure that has
become quite popular in the last little while. “All of our staff have gone through thorough training”, explains Jelena, my cosmetologist. Jelena is also great at answering all of my questions and explaining exactly how the procedure will go. The hyaluronic acid cocktail for face and neck (2 hours, 119) begins with a laser treatment with the NNM™ device. This machine uses both a laser (red and infrared) and electrotherapy (electro stimulation, micro currents for mio-lifting, lymphatic drainage and interferential therapy). This combination helps the cocktail reach deep into the skin. No-Needle Mesotherapy NNM™ treats both cellulite and age-related skin issues by encouraging the penetration of a topical solution. As the title suggests, it does not use any needles, and as
I found out, is so relaxing that it’s not difficult to fall asleep during the procedure. After the laser has gone over your skin, then the electrotherapy begins. This ensures that the hyaluronic acid solution reaches deep into the skin. The solution, or cocktail, lifts skin, strengthens blood vessels, deeply hydrates, and restores tissue metabolism. In other words, it leaves your skin looking and feeling great. To get the best results, you should undergo 8-10 treatments, though you may even notice results after one treatment. Jelena suggested having a course of treatment twice a year. In December, customers will receive 10 off No-Needle Mesotherapy. ■
Location The hyaluronic acid cocktail for face and neck begins with a laser treatment with the NNM™ device.
Freya Estetica Aia 4/VanaViru 13, 2nd floor, Tallinn A2.
Top 5: Perfume
TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV
Here’s a look at some of the best selling perfumes in Estonia. Classic or modern dern scents are sure to please e everyone.
Dia Amouage €249.99 (100ml), €214.99 (50ml) Amouage uses luxury and rare ingredients from around the world in their perfumes. This blend has delicate notes o of rose and jasmine, as well as other white flowers.
Chanel No.5 Première €134.99 (100ml), €95.99 (50ml) The classic No.5 now has a milder version, geared towards the younger woman.
Giorgio Gi i A Armanii Si €13 €134.99 (100ml), €89.99 (50ml) Enjoy notes of freesia and rose in this light and summery scent.
Estee E t L Lauder d M Modern d Muse €79.99 (50ml), €56.99 (30ml) Orange and honeysuckle dominate this lovely scent.
Trussardi di Donna €99.99 (100ml), €72.99 (50ml) Citrus and white flowers are the strongest notes in this fragrance.
Top 5: Make-up December is all about glitter and glam as you get ready for the festivities. Decem estivities. Here is a look at some of the best beaut beauty ty buys in n Tallinn Tallinn.
Art Deco Perfect Taint Concealer €11.80 This concealer is great co for cov covering up those annoying pimples and annoy lightening dark circles lighten under the eyes.
Where to buy Wher Kaubam Kaubamaja’s Ilumaailm or beauty world is the biggest kind in Estonia. of its k Kaubamaja, 1st floor Kaubam Gonsiori 2, Tallinn B2. Gonsio
Guerlain Coque d’Or €83.99 Add a little bit of glitter to your look with unscented spray and give yourself that little bit of extra glow.
Pupa I’m Lipstick €15.80 Red is the colour of the season and you can’t go wrong with this bright red lipstick from Pupa.
Lancôme ancôme Grandiose randiose €34.99 €3 34.99 This newlyy designed mascara from rom Lancome not only givess you fuller lashes, es, but makess sure that you get every inch covered. The bent wand d helps you get up close to o the eyelid..
L’Oreal Nude Magique CC Cream €12.20 This T green een concealer lessens red, giving l your face y ce a more even tone. e ne.
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■ Event and Concert Tickets Tickets to just about any event or concert in Estonia can be purchased online at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro. Or, visit one of their central locations at: ■ Piletilevi: Viru Shopping Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2. ■ Ticketpro: Solaris Shopping Centre, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn B2. ■ Piletimaailm (Eesti konsert): Estonia pst 4, Tallinn B2.
Get into the Christmas spirit at the market TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV
The Christmas market in Tallinn’s Town Hall Square is the place to find interesting things to fill your stockings. The Square is filled with little houses where handicraft artisans are selling everything from sweaters to tree ornaments and ceramic jugs. Walking among the dozens of wooden houses you will be sure to find something. Be sure to visit with the kids because Santa and his reindeer will also be at the market. You can tell your gift wishes to Santa from 12.00-18.00 every day. In addition
to the reindeer, there are also other animals at the market. It’s worth a visit just to see the immense Christmas tree in the centre of the Square. This has been a tradition since 1441. It’s even argued that it was the first Christmas tree in Europe. Concerts and dance performances are organised on the stage at the market on Fridays and Saturdays from 17.00-19.00 and Sundays, 12.00-14.00. You will see everything from flamenco to ballet and even children’s dance performances.
The Advent candles are lit on Sunday. The mayor declares Christmas peace on the 24th at 12.00. The smell of Estonian Christmas food wafts through the air. Try some sauerkraut, sausages and the traditional blood sausage. Warm up with some mulled wine, or glögg, and other hot drinks until 23.00 every night. ■
Location Christmas Market at the Town Hall Square Tallinn 21 November – 10 January Open daily, 10.00-19.00 Photo: Aron Urb
Sea in the Wardrobe An exhibition on the sea and fashion. Maritime fashion is probably something you’ve never thought about. What do fishermen wear at sea? How has navy fashion changed over the years? What did people wear to the beach 100 years ago? The Sea in the Wardrobe exhibit answers all of these questions and more. The six-room exhibit looks at sea clothing and the materials it is made from, beachwear and children’s outfits. There
is truly something for everyone in this unique exhibit. ■
Location Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam) Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn Open: Tue – Sun 10.00 – 19.00 Combined ticket until 18 January: Adults €14; Students and Children €8; Family ticket €28. Children up to 8 years free if accompanied by an adult.
Photo: concert organiser
Enrique Iglesias 8 December, Saku Suurhall, Tallinn The pop superstar Enrique Iglesias will play Tallinn as part of his Sex and Love tour. Three singles from the album reached number on Billboard’s Hot Latin Songs Chart.
Christmas Jazz 27 November – 14 December Various locations There is nothing like music to get you into the Christmas spirit. Jazzkaar brings Christmas Jazz to churches and concert halls, featuring talented musicians from Estonia and abroad.
Dave Benton Christmas Concert 23 December Kaarli Church, Tallinn Watch the charismatic Dave Benton give a wonderful Christmas concert in one of Tallinn’s most beautiful churches. You can expect a selection of favourite Christmas songs to warm the heart and the soul.
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E R 2 0 14
e City Guide: Rakver nts – New Restauraan d drink t ea to Where ng – Christmas Shopenpiirs Gifts and souve for every tast – Made in Estoniald weather co r fo Skincare
An Estonian village in the capital of Estonia bread baking on Härjapea farm on December 5-7 Christmas Village on December 19-21 holiday time till January 13 – winter holiday activities at the farms horse and carriage rides, handicraft shop and village shop from the 1930s, Estonian national food at the inn Open daily at 10-17 (ex. Dec 24, 25 & 31). Buses: 21 and 21B from the Balti jaam train station. City Tour Blue Line from Viru Square. Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. Ph. +372 654 9100, www.evm.ee.
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Flesh-coloured taffeta evening gown with bead and glass bead embroidery. Yugoslavia, ca 1923.
T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 4
Green and pink dresses: Muslin evening gown with opal and glass beads and lead-crystal embroidery. Western Europe, ca 1924. Magenta fuchsia chiffon evening gown with glass bead and bead embroidery. USA, ca 1922.
A Moveable Feast Art Deco Fashion Design from Alexandre Vassiliev’s Collection TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS KUMU
This fascinating exhibition is based on the collection of Alexandre Vassiliev (1958). Vassiliev is a fashion historian, interior designer, and scenographer, quite well known in Europe. The exhibit focuses on fashion in the decade following World War I.
The exhibition includes 80 costumes and over 200 accessories, as well as some photos and paintings that illustrate the development of European fashion between the two World Wars. Art Deco was the dominant style during this period. The biggest change in women’s fashion during this time was the
change in dress length. Dresses became shorter between 1918 and 1925. Muslin dresses with low necklines, decorated with sequins were typical. Handbags and evening bags were common accessories, including the helmet shaped hats, typical of the period. Other accessories included fans made from ostrich feathers, Bakelite
compacts, shiny cigarette holders and brooches with fake jewels. Alexandre Vassilev has published close to 40 books on fashion history. His Art Deco collection has been on display throughout the world, in cities like Paris, Sydney, Hong Kong, Tokyo, Istanbul, Moscow, Riga, Vilnius, and Kaunas. ■
Location The exhibit runs until 18 January, 2015 KUMU Art Museum Weizenbergi 34 / Valge 1, Tallinn B5.
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES TALLINN
Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum)
Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum)
Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)
Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)
Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2. www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We 10-17, Th 10-19, Fri-Su 10-17
Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17 Winter by appointment only.
Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3. www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30
Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.ee Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17 July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20
Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)
Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu)
Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum) Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1G. www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18
Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18
Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace
Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17
Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum) Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2. www.tmm.ee. 1.09-31.05 May, Tu-Sa 10-18 1.06-31.08, Mo-Sa 10-18
Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages
Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5. www.ajaloomuuseum.ee We-Su 10–17
Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/ 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30
Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum)
Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda)
Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3. www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18
L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4. www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18
Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18
Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU) Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19
Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1. www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18
Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum) Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30
Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum) Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2. http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/ basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.
■ Art Museums &
Galleries Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1. www.adamson-eric.ee We-Su 11–18
Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuuseum.ee Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17 May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17
Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5. www.kumu.ee Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18 May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18
Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1. www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30
TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ DDEECCEEM MBBEERR 22001144
19 Ticket Information
PUBLIC TRANSPORT Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free. Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader. Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee
1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati
Sitsi Lõime Angerja
PÕHJA-TALLINN Ehte Volta
Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5 6 7
Balti jaam Telliskivi
1 Kadriorg – Kopli 2 Ülemiste – Kopli 4 Ülemiste – Vana-Lõuna
Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Balti jaam – Keskuse Balti jaam – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Väike-Õismäe Balti jaam – Väike-Õismäe
Lille Looga Mustjõe
VÄIKE-ÕISMÄE 7 6 Väike- ÕISMÄE
A. H. Tammsaare tee
MUSTAMÄE 1 3 5
Akadeemia tee KESKUSE Männi Vambola Mustamäe Liivaku Keskuse 9 4 Raja Keemia Ehitajate tee
Keskturg Autobussijaam Lubja
Pae Bus Station
TALLINN CITY TOUR PIRITA
Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 diﬀerent languages. Hop On Hop Oﬀ - bus tickets valid for 24h on three diﬀerent lines.
E-tickets ■ ■ ■ ■ ■
1 hour ticket 1 day (24h) 3 days (72h) 5 days (120h) 30 days
€1.10 €3 €5 €6 €23
Where to buy
As of 20 November, tram No 4 will be running between Vana-Lõuna and Ülemiste stops.
Htl. Tallinn OLD Viru 6 TOWN Htl. Tallinn 1 Tehnika Tõnis3 Estonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi Vabaduse soni MAJA väljak Tõnismägi Koidu Kosmos Koidu
■ single ticket €1.60 ■ student ticket €0.80 Try to have exact change for the driver. Cards are not accepted. The ticket is valid for one journey only on that specific vehicle. Discounts are only available to ISIC cardholders.
J. Poska Mere pst
From the driver
4 7 5
Balti jaam Ädala
The Smartcard or Ühiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet. ee. A €2 deposit is needed to purchase the Smartcard. If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the beginning of each journey.
■ ■ ■ ■
from the driver from kiosks from post oﬃces online www.pilet.ee (Top up your smartcard with MasterCard or Visa)
Free ■ preschool children ■ adult travelling with children 3 years and under ■ holders of a validated Tallinn Card 6-118-000
11-800 (+€0.74 / min)
LASNAMÄE KOPLI port
KALAMAJA ROCCA AL MARE
Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets 19€ www.citytour.ee
Accepted in nearly 100 locations, the Tallinn Card gives you free entrance and discounts.
Tallinn Card is available at: Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks, Kullassepa 4/ Niguliste 2, from A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn hotels. www.tallinncard.ee.
■ Useful Phrases please..................................................... palun thank you ............................................. aitäh, tänan excuse me ............................................ vabandage hello........................................................ tere, tervist good morning .................................... tere hommikust good day............................................... tere päevast good evening ..................................... tere õhtust good night ........................................... head ööd goodbye ............................................... nägemist, head aega all the best............................................ kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip................................. head reisi bon appetite ....................................... jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ...................... terviseks
How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?
MBBEERR 22001144 TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ DDEECCEEM
Photo: Margus Johanson
■ Getting to and from Tallinn
■ By bus:
■ Phone calls
Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee
There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.
■ Free WiFi Ye s , t h a t ’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will ﬁnd free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wiﬁ.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.
■ Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE 110 EMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h) ■ Taxis
From the bus station to the city: ■ tram no. 2 ■ bus no. 17, no. 23
Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero. ■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists. ■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways. ■ All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night. ■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. ■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid penalty.
■ By sea: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2
Car Hire You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at the Tallinn Airport: ■ Budget – www.budget.ee ■ Europcar – www.europcar.ee ■ Hertz – www.hertz.ee ■ National – www.europcar.ee ■ Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com
There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee. ■ ■ ■ ■
Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee
■ By train: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town
Parking Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.
Parking in Tallinn can be confusing. There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots. The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time – placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle. This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.
DOWNTOWN / SÜDALINN: 0,58 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fi 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays ■ Bt air: i
OLD TOWN / VANALINN: 1,15 / 15 minutes Paid parking around the clock Parking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn.
CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN: 0,26 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fr 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays
For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parkingin-Tallinn
Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K FAST CLASS By Copterline – www.copterline.ee Travel between Tallinn and Helsinki city centres by helicopter.
Photo: Jarek Jõepera
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ÂŠRegio 2008 KL-8-026 HAAPSALU 175 IKLA MAAKONNAD 347 288 KOIDULA 84 148 335 KUIVASTU HARJUMAA IDALĂ„Ă„NEVIRUMAA VIRUMAA 158 221 408 73 KURESSAARE 56 228 403 121 106 KĂ„RDLA JĂ„RVAMAA RAPLAMAA HIIUMAA 312 349 267 357 431 368 NARVA JĂ•GEVAMAA 108 67 253 81 155PĂ„RNUMAA 161 291 PĂ„RNU VILJANDIMAA SAAREMAA TARTUMAA 199 235 222 245 318 256 167 178 RAKVERE 9 180 356 90 163 47 321 114 208 ROHUKĂœLA PĂ•LVAMAA 99 193 285 144 218 155 211 128 VALGAMAA 99 108 TALLINN 249 209 100 255 328 305 178 174 123 258 186 TARTU VĂ•RUMAA 204 131 173 177 250 257 235 96 149 210 159 78 VILJANDI 22Ëš00' 300 227 62 274 347 353 248 192 194 306 253 71 124 VĂ•RU 22Ëš00'
0 10 Major 10 Estonian Towns
Ringi miku Hom Hospidali
SĂľp ruse pst
LĂ¤Ă¤ ne PĂľh j a pui este e
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ÂŠREGIO 2008 Riia 24, Tartu 51010 tel +372 738 7300
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Första stället i Tallinn när man kommer sjövägen och sista när man beger sig till havs!
The ﬁrst place to come when You arrive and the last place to visit before leaving!
Massor av härliga smakupplevelser! Taste one of our delicious dishes!
V EXY :ER
Öppet/Open: varje dag/every day 8-19. Köket öppet från kl/ The kitchen open from 8.
Pepper Steak 13.90€ÊUÊSouth Indian chicken curry 8€
Grilled Salmon 9.90€ÊUÊGrilled Duck Fillet 12.90€
House Wine 2.90€ÊUÊAppetisers 2€
Vana-Tallinn 2.50€ÊUÊBeer 2.50€
3TIR)ZIV]HE]¯ 1RHM4MOO 3PH8S[R 7EME
Irish coffee 4€ÊUÊVodka 2€
Just 25 metres from Town Hall Square
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Levande musik varje dag/ Live music every day 12-15
Sadamarket Shopping Centrum 1a vån/1st ﬂoor, 100m från A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals. Sadama 8/Kai 5 (opposite the Sadamaturg), Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, email@example.com, www.seitsemerd.ee
The Baltic Guide in English is a tourist newspaper for visitors to Estonia. The newspaper's broad content covers everything from cultural e...
Published on Dec 1, 2014
The Baltic Guide in English is a tourist newspaper for visitors to Estonia. The newspaper's broad content covers everything from cultural e...