The Baltic Guide ENG December 2013

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NYE in Tallinn Shopping Spotlight: Postimaja Where to try Estonian Christmas food

Happy Holidays! Events, dining, gifts, souvenirs, and more!

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D E C E M B E R 2 0 13

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editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 3

Christmas Traditions

A

t long last dull and dreary November has passed and Christmas is here! The streets of the Old Town are bustling with eager Christmas shoppers, the Town Hall Square is brought to life with the annual Christmas market –in other words, the holiday spirit is alive and well in Tallinn! Tallinn is known for its Christmas market, and Estonians would like to think that its one of the most beautiful in Europe. If we are lucky enough to have a snowfall in December, the Old Town is even more magical. The Town Hall Square is the place to be this month. Local artisans sell their goods in the little wooden houses that fill the square. If you’re hungry there is no shortage of places to eat either. Try some traditional Estonian Christmas food, like blood sausage and sauerkraut.

In this month’s issue it’s all about the holidays! We’ve got some gift suggestions, both edible and not; what’s going on this month in Tallinn, like Christmas concerts and other holiday events; and last but not least, where to try Christmas food in Tallinn. This month, Maarja-Liisa has the scoop on where to party New Year’s Eve too!

Contents Happy Holidays!

3 editorial 5-6 sightseeing

Kristina Lupp Editor-in-chief

restaurantss

December Highlights

8-9 restaurants 12 Estonian Christmas food

01 PIROUETTES IN THE OLD TOWN The Harju Street ice rink is perhaps one of the most picturesque skating rinks, you are surrounded by medieval houses. The rink is open daily from 10.00-22.00, and skates are available for rent too!

02 THE LIZARD KING’S BIRTHDAY The Doors lead singer Jim Morrison would have been 70 years old in December. The Lizard King’s birthday will be celebrated in 1960s style in Tartu and Tallinn. Taavi Peterson, the Estonian Morrison has a voice that will surprise all Doors fans. Jim Morrison 70 – The Doors Rock Theatre 6 December at the Tartu Genialistide Klubi and 7 December in Tallinn at Kohvik Sinilind.

03 CHRISTMAS MARKETS IN PÄRNU AND TARTU

shopping 10-11 nightlife 13-14 shopping 15 beauty 16 december events 18 museum 19 transport 20-22 maps and information

Photo: EAS

Christmas markets are organised all over Estonia. Parnu’s traditional Christmas market will be held from 18-23 December in front of the Pärnu Shopping Centre. The Tartu Kaubamaja Christmas market will take place 17-24 December. A Christmas market will also be organised on 14 December in Tartu’s Town Hall Square.

04 NYE WITH A VIEW

05 WHITE GOSPEL Hear the White Gospel concert on 22 December at Saku Suurhall, with Tanel Padar, Ott Lepland, and Liis Lemsalu performing. The WAF Choir will also perform.

Pick up your free copy at:

DECEMBER 2013

Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Design: Evelin Linholm Photography: Andrei Chertkov

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O

'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seven Seas Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Your Comments ■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

Contact Information Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee Marketing Manager: Helen Kaur tel +372 58 502 477

Photo: Andrei Chertkov Model: Breth Makeup: Maria Indermitte Stylist : Ženja Fokin Clothes: Baggys, Karen Millen Thank you to Home4You

@ balticguide_en

Celebrate the new year in style and with a view from 175 meters high! The Tallinn TV Tower will open its doors for a 5-course gala dinner to be followed by an 80s and 90s video disco. Free transport to the city centre will run until 2am.

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Photo: ??????


TALLINN HELSINKI STOCKHOLM LONDON WIEN AMSTERDAM BERLIN HAMBURG NEW YORK

HEALTHY FRESH DELICIOUS

Restaurant/Pub FĂśrsta stället i Tallinn när man kommer sjĂśvägen och sista när man beger sig till havs! The ďŹ rst place to come when You arrive and the last place to visit before leaving!

PASTA & PIZZA

Massor av härliga smakupplevelser!

from

4,90 â‚Ź

Levande musik varje dag/ Live music every day 12-15

Taste one of our delicious dishes!

Foorum Center, Hobujaama 10, Tallinn Near the harbour. Ph. +372 6 829 010

Ă–ppet/Open: varje dag/every day 8-19.

Solaris Center, Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn Near the National Opera Theatre. Ph. +372 6 285 999

KĂśket Ăśppet frĂĽn kl/ The kitchen open from 8.

OPEN SUN-THU 11-23, FRI-SAT 11-24

BEST VENUES IN TALLINN! WELCOME! FIND OUR RESTAURANTS ON THE TALLINN MAP ON PAGE 21 47

VISIT VAPIANO IN HELSINKI, MIKONKATU 15!

Sadamarket Shopping Centrum 1a vün/1st oor, 100m frün A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals. Sadama 8/Kai 5 (opposite the Sadamaturg), Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, info@seitsemerd.ee, www.seitsemerd.ee

New German Schnitzel Restaurant in Tallinn’s Old Town.

Free shot of liqueur when you order a schnitzel.

Pork Schnitzels, Chicken Schnitzels‌ Always up to 500g Children’s Menu Available All dishes prepared by our German chef.

New location: Rßßtli 28/30, Old Town

:JOUP[aLS /H\Z ‹ 6WLU :\U ;O\ -YP :H[ 9……[SP 6SK ;V^U ‹ ;LS ‹ ^^^ ZJOUP[aLSOH\Z LL

RAEKOJA PLATS 15 TEL. +372 627 6245 MON–SUN 10–23 WWW.TROIKA.EE Live music every night!

FROM RUSSIA...WITH LOVE

THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD


sightseeing

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Photo: T. Tuul

Must-see sights of the Old Town TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick. Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn B1.

Viewing Platforms Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arms length. The red tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn B1. Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church was even taller in medieval times and the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn B1. Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets. Tallinn B1.

Photo: Lembit Michelson

Raeapteek The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location, in the Town Hall Square. Tallinn Old Town H 1. Photo: Anneli Tandorf

Raekoja plats Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s.

Kiek in de kök

Toompea Castle The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Riigikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn B1.

Tallinn Old Town H 1-2.

Katariina käik

Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene. Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants. Tallinn Old Town H 2-3.

Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels

St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik) Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town E2.

The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means, “look into the kitchen”

Photo: Toomas Volmer

KGB Museum

Town Hall Square

A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests. The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours book up quickly so bookings are recommended. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.

Paks Margareeta Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 metres and the walls are up to 6.5 metres thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn, if arriving by sea. Pikk 70,Tallinn A2.


sightseeing

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p i r T y Da

TALLINN

Maardu

Paldiski Keila

Outside of the Old Town TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.

Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail.

Kalamaja & Kopli Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. From the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870, many factories opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafés began to open, and the area continues to grow .

Patarei Prison (Patarei Vangla) Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

Kalaranna 2-2a By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail, just before the Seaplane Harbour.

Pirita Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre and offers a variety of things to see and do. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. A stroll through the ruins and the surrounds, including the small cemetery, is a moving reminder of the past. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day in summer. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only provides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district. A starting point for information on these can be found at:

Saue

Tallinn – Paldiski With the days getting shorter, and a little cooler, it’s safe to say you won’t be headed to the beach for sunbathing. If you’re looking for a bit of history and some beautiful natural scenery, then this is the day trip for you.

St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn

Prior to 1994, Paldiski was a Soviet military base and home to 16,000 military personnel. After 1994, and after the military base closed, the population reduced quickly to about 4,300, its population today. The town has been in a state of decay, but slowly seems to be turning around with new investments and development, in particular near the port. Just outside of Paldiski is the Pakri peninsula. The peninsula itself is stunning, with tall limestone cliffs, and is home to the rare black guillemots, which look like small penguins. The Soviet ruins (abandoned bunkers and military debris) that are scattered along the peninsula are being torn down to clean up the area. Other attractions include the red lighthouse, a tsarist era train station, and the Pakri wind farm. ■

Location

Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn

Paldiski is located about 50km west of Tallinn. It’s easy to get there by bus or train. Trains leave from Balti jaam train station and take just over an hour to get there. For train timetables visit: www.edel.ee

Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn.

Kadriorg Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam) Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines built in the UK in the mid 1930s. Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian war of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service. The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI

Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century. The park and the palace were built by Peter the Great, who apparently helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.

A quick history of the city of Tallinn Estonian Open Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn.

The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–). 1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town. 1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn. 1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed. 1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital

and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes Estonia's capital. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.


Toompuiestee 8, Hirvepark,Tallinn

INDIAN RESTAURANT Come and enjoy exotic Kerala, Thai and European dishes! The restaurant's owner is from Kerala in Southern India. Excellent prices

Just 25 metres from Town Hall Square Open Everyday 11-23 Mündi 4 / Pikk 14 (Old Town) Saia

Irish coffee 4€ÊUÊVodka 2€

Dunkri

Raek oja

Pepper Steak 13.90€ÊUÊSouth Indian chicken curry 8€

Kullassep a

Grilled Salmon 9.90€ÊUÊGrilled Duck Fillet 12.90€

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www.gusto.ee

Town Hall Square

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House Wine 2.90€ÊUÊAppetisers 2€

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+372 53 042484

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Mündi

Vana-Tallinn 2.50€ÊUÊBeer 2.50€

Kinga

Mon-Tue 11-21 Wed-Fri 11-22.30 Sat 12-22.30 Sun 12-18

Viru

UP TO THE SKY The city's best pizza!

BRASSERIE & RESTAURANT TELETORN

Small pizza 3.90

RESTAURANT WITH A VIEW



Large pizza 5.90 

Family size pizza 11.90 

Salad 3.50

Open everyday 11-23 Väike-Karja 6, Old Town, Tallinn Phone +372 641 871 8 +372 505 561 6 info@pizzagrande.ee www.pizzagrande.ee



Suur-Karja

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Soft drinks 1.30

31. 12 New Year's Eve Gala 2014

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Coffee 1.20

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Read articles online at The TV Tower is located 10 min. from the city centre and 4 min. from the Pirita Marina. Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn How to get here: You can take buses 34A, 38, and 49 (stop "Teletorn"), or the City Tour bus. Our premises are handicap accessible.

www.balticguide.ee

Parking: The TV Tower parking lot has 5 places for tourist buses and 60 places for cars. Reservations: +372 58150020. E-mail: restoran@teletorn.ee, www.teletorn.ee Open daily 11-23, 24.12 closed, 25.12 open 18–23

Reval Express Sada

Tallink Spa & Conference Hotel

Terminal A Terminal B Terminal C

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Terminal D

Kai

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Narva mnt 7 Viru Keskus

Narva mnt eži

Viru

Tuukri

Karu

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Aia

Vana-Viru

Attention! The use of alcoholic beverages can damage your health.

Mere pst 6

Lootsi 3A

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Kuulsaal Kalev Spa Inseneri

www.alcostore.ee

Aht ri

Hob

Mon-Sun 10:00-20:00 / Ph 660 5986

Norde Centrum

pst

Mon-Sun 10:00-20:00 / Ph 660 5771

Aht ri

Kanuti

Mere

Lootsi 8, Tallinn

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Lootsi 3A, Tallinn

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Narva mnt 7, Tallinn Mon-Sun 10:00-20:00 / Ph 683 7740

Lootsi

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Mere pst 6, Tallinn Mon-Sun 10:00-20:00 / Ph 683 7745

Lootsi 8

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Alcoholic beverages in the city center and at the port

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8

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Enjoy live performances at the weekends.

The lamb was cooked to perfection.

Vodka is a m

Don’t fix what isn’t broken, unless you can make it even better.

The Traditional and Modern russian TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS MAŠA

Masha restaurant has shine, kitsch, and is tastefully romantic. If it’s not clear upon entering what kind of restaurant this is, then the

menu will certainly fill in the blanks. This Russian restaurant offers borscht, blinis, dumplings, zakushkas, and stroganoff, all familiar Russian favourites. These classic dishes just have to be on the menu, and this is how it is at Masha. The wooden furniture is specially made for the restaurant. The chairs are strong, yet comfortable,

and they won’t break. The restaurant is nice, both inside and out. The menu is pleasingly short, but don’t worry, you’re sure to find something. Prices are reasonable – with everything from a starter that costs a few euros, to a 20-euro main, the steak. This is the restaurant’s favourite dish, and it comes served sizzling from a hot pan.

I decided to try a classic dish, the blinis with caviar, followed by the mushroom soup, and to finish, a rack of lamb. Have a shot of vodka to whet the appetite. At Masha they serve Russkii Standart Platinum. The blinis were made with buckwheat flour and the portion was just right.

The dumplings were served in an ovenproof dish and covered with a pastry. The sauce had whole chanterelles and a pleasing autumn flavour. Without even asking it was clear that the dumplings were made in house. It’s worth coming here just for them. The lamb was cooked to perfection and served with pepper

Mack Bar-B-Que offers everything from ribs to hamburgers.

The city’s best American style burgers

"American-style" burgers at Mack Bar-B-Que.

burger TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS MIKKO VIRTA, MACK BAR-B-QUE

As soon as you enter, you know right way what kind of restaurant this is. Glowing advertisements hang from behind the bar. Led Zeppelin and Jimi Hendrix

songs play in the background. And sports play on large TVs. The menu screams America: Mack Bar-B-Que offers pizzas, hamburgers, ribs, chicken wings, and for dessert you can choose cheesecakes or ice cream cocktails. There is even a separate children’s menu. There are close to 30 different beers to choose from, from all over the world.

We decided to order hamburgers, because we were in an American restaurant after all. The house burger, Original Mack BBQ (13) was a huge cheeseburger with both beef and BBQ meat. It was served with crispy fries and mouth-watering coleslaw. The price quality ratio is fantastic at Mack BBQ. On that particular day, they also had Coronas on offer for 2.50. Take trams 2 or 4 to get there from the city centre. It is about 20 minutes by foot. ■

Location Mack-Bar-B- Que, Tartu mnt 63, Tallinn B3 And at Rocca al Mare Shopping Centre. Paldiski mnt 102, Tallinn.


urants

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Cantina Carramba is one of Tallinn’s few Mexican restaurants.

Spice in Kadriorg TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV AND MIKKO VIRTA

must with the blinis.

Save room for desert!

Russian sauce that brought the dish together. We tried the house red and white wines. Both wines suited the dishes, but if you are there with friends, I recommend sharing a bottle. The service was friendly and professional. We were left with a very good impression of Masha. The classical dishes still had a bit

of twist. Masha restaurant has managed to blend the old with the new. ■

Location Restoran Masha Lootsi 14, Tallinn (D- Terminal), A3. Live music and dance performances at the weekends.

This cellar restaurant, with its swinging saloon doors certainly gives the feeling of being in Mexico. The walls are painted orangered and covered with Incan art, and sombrero light fixtures hang from the ceiling. The long menu offers everything from salads and soups, to burritos and fajitas. Main courses cost around 10, and smaller appetisers go for just a few euros. Spicy foods are marked with one to three chillies. The drink list features Mexican beers and tequila, and a strawberry margarita makes a tasty dessert. To start we ordered an avocado soup with chicken (4.40).

This tasty soup was filling and ramba. It also has a great location, refreshing. right in the heart of Kadriorg. As a main course we ordered Trams 1 and 3 will take you there. ■ the Cantina Fiesta (26.20), which is meant to be shared between two. Location The platter came with chicken Cantina Carramba, Weizenbergi 20a, wings, ribs, fried jalapenos, cheese Tallinn, A4. sticks and onion rings, as well as cheese and salsa bread. It was accompanied with salsa and guacamole. Our favourites were the fried jalapenos and onion rings, but the ribs were also quite tasty. We didn’t have room for dessert, but the menu offered ice cream filled tortillas and white chocolate cake. The service was friendEclectic decor at Cantina Carramba. ly and attentive at Car-

Warm up those cold nights with flavourful Asian food at Riis.

Spiced gourmet Riis serves a mix of Thai and Vietnamese cuisines.

asian TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

If you are craving some spicy food, it’s worth the short trip out to the neighbourhood of Kadriorg to Riis. Riis means rice in Estonian, no doubt named after the staple ingredient in many Asian cuisines. The interior at Riis is simple yet stylish, with a long table

running through the middle of the restaurant that can accommodate small groups, or singles during their busy lunch period. Riis is very popular among locals for a quick workday lunch, so it’s recommended to visit either little before, or after the lunch rush, if you plan to go during the day. The menu at Riis is long but not overwhelming. It’s a mix of Thai and Vietnamese cuisines, which includes many staple favourites. The veggie or chicken spring rolls are per-

fect as an appetiser. The crispy rolls are served with sweet chilli sauce for dipping. The tempura prawns were also tasty, if you are craving some more appetisers for sharing. The main course was difficult to choose because there were just so many great options. In the end I decided to try the beef in red coconut curry sauce. While it was not that spicy to start, after finishing you could definitely feel the heat! If you visit at lunch, Riis offers daily lunch specials, consisting of an appetiser, main course, and dessert. And monthly discounts on certain dishes are available with their client card. ■

Location Riis Aasia Köök Tina 21, Tallinn B3

Riis is very popular among locals for a quick workday lunch.


nightlife

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I DE E ™™ DDE ECCE EMMB BE ER R 2 20 01 13 3 T THHE E B BAAL LT TI CI C GGUUI D

discover Tallinn's to e m ti 's it , ts h g si all the must-see about the u o y lls te la h a M When you've seen sa ative Maarja-Lii n n n lli Ta . e if tl h ig n l unges in town! colourfu lo d n a s, b lu c s, b u p best gigs,

CHEERS TO A HAPPY NEW YEAR! December is one of the most beautiful months in Tallinn. You can warm yourself up with mulled wine or elk soup at the Christmas market; cosy little pubs welcome you to meet new people. At the end of the month the biggest party of the year takes place. Here is a little list of New Years Eve parties in Tallinn where you can raise your glass to a new year and new resolutions! Photo: Shooters

Photo: Studio

Studio

■ STUDIO One of the most popular nightclubs in Tallinn, Studio, has quite a busy schedule planned for New Years Eve. On that night DJ David West from Sweden and famous local DJs Jaan Jaago, Muudu, and Critikal will

Estonian Music Dagö is a folk-rock band that was formed by Lauri Saatpalu, Peeter Rebane and Tiit Kikas in 1998 and their first album came out in 2000. Their music was so novel that only one record company was brave enough to release the album. Since then they have released seven albums. All of their songs are in Estonian and many locals find an unexplainable melancholy from their music. They will perform on 5th of December at the Rock Cafe with their concert tour called “Hiired tuules” so if you’re interested in a true Estonian concert experience then check it out!

be spinning records and making the whole house dance. If you are a big RnB, house, and new and old urban music fan then Studio will guarantee that the new year will come with a bang!

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2

Shooters

■ CLAZZ Clazz implies class but they are not too serious about it. That is definitely true because for New Years they have planned a big 70s theme party. Fabulous flower patterns, flared pants and a carefree attitude are the tags for the night. The ticket price

might be a bit steep but it includes a five-course meal and entertainment for the whole night. If you want to make your New Years Eve memorable then sweep the dust off your Afro wig and book your table early!

Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2.

■ PRIVE Club Prive’s New Years Eve party is called “Cashback 2014” and at 3 a.m. “a Lucky Cash Canon” will blow 2000 euros into the crowd. Their parties are known for glamorous crowds and superb music. As always champagne will be flo-

DAGÖ Photo: Dagö Facebook

Sinilind


nightlife

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Photo: Clazz

Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

Gay Sports

Club 69

Clayhills

G-punkt

Sakala 24, Tallinn B2.

Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1.

Drink Baar Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn.

X-baar Tatari 1, Tallinn.

Hell Hunt Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2.

Mad Murphy’s Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Clazz

Nimeta Baar

wing and beautiful dancers will give you their best performance. There are also VIP tables (and even VIP rooms) available so make an early reservation because this is a party you don’t want to miss!

Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town J1.

and raise another shot glass to a new year that will bring us everything we have ever wished for! Shooters is a bar for people of any age and it’s not a bar in which to spend a quiet night. Shooters is a bar for new friends and unforgettable nights that turn into mornings!

■ CLUB HOLLYWOOD

Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Club Hollywood plans to welcome the New Year with a party that you will remember throughout the next year! DJ Kristjan Hirmo and DJ Kert Klaus will spin records; the club will be full of beautiful dancers and drum girls; you can try your luck at the wheel of fortune, and video- and special effects create mystic vibes. There’s only one rule - go wild or go home!

Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

■ SHOOTERS

■ AMIGO The friendliest nightclub in Tallinn welcomes everyone to their wild New Years celebrations! Karl-Erik Taukar, a singer who made all Estonian women sigh for a moment, will be performing with the show “A tribute to Robbie Williams”. Tickets are available only on the spot so line up early and sing along to all the best hits!

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn, B2.

Shooters, one of the wildest shots bars in Tallinn, plans to have another crazy New Years Eve party. DJ Mike Sugar will make you dance

great music, amazing food and refreshing cocktails. The mission of the bar is to give a little bit of the Big Apple’s mystery to Tallinn and the New Years Eve party will be glamorous and fancy – just like in NYC. Oliver Holland is the guest vocalist-pianist from Britain, so take your glass of sparkling wine and enjoy some big city charm!

Vana-Posti 8 , Tallinn Old Town, I2.

■ SINILIND Sinilind is a little vintage style cafe/ bar with interesting soviet detailing. Their New Years Eve party is called “Big Bang 2014” and there will be many different Estonian performers to create a cosy atmosphere. Sinilind is known as the place for bohemians and artsy people so if you’re looking for something different then welcome in the New Year with a big bang!

■ NYC PIANO BAR NYC Piano bar is a fresh and cool place in the Old Town with

Gelsomino Karaoke Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town G1.

Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar

Cigar Lounges

The Shamrock Pub

Roseni 13, Tallinn A2. Viru 24, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Chicago 1933 Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3.

La Casa del Habano Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town H1.

Sigari Maja

Nightclubs Arena 3 Sadama 6, Tallinn A3.

Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town H2.

The Bank Club 777

Estonian

Bibabo

Karja Kelder

CatHouse

Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Kochi Ait Tavern Lootsi 10, Tallinn A3.

Kolmas Draakon Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Valli Baar Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Live Music

Tartu mnt 17, Tallinn B3. Vabaduse väljak 10, Tallinn Old Town J1. Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2.

Club Hollywood Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Club Münt Mürivahe 22, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Club Privé Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1.

Club Studio Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Café Amigo

Panoraam

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.

Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2.

Chicago 1933

Parlament

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2.

Clazz

Tapper

Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Pärnu mnt 158G, Tallinn.

NYC Piano Bar

Teater

Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1.

Rock Café

Vabank

Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn.

Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1.

Von Krahl

Venus

Rataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn Old Town H1.

Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Müürivahe 50, Tallinn Old Town, H3.

Photo: Shooters

Shooters Photo: Jake Farra

Club Hollywood

Karaoke

NYC Piano Bar


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restaurants

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 3

Estonian Christmas Traditions (and where to taste them in Tallinn)

Chef Rene Uusmees at MEKK. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

A Modern Menu

To start, choose between a fish course and a meat course. Both dishes come with a selection of five types of fish or meat prepared in different ways. “When Estonians sit down to eat their Christmas meal, everything is on the table. I wanted to express this in the appetiser by offering smaller portions and a little bit of everything,” explains Uusmees. For the main course, the chef offers a choice between duck leg, braised wild boar, or lamb. The wild boar was tender and juicy, and served with braised cabbage and carrots. For dessert, choose between chocolate cheesecake with cherries and sour cream mousse or warm Christmas pudding with mulled wine sorbet and caramelised hazelnuts.

small, allowing a proper sampling of three different kinds. Included on the platter were blood sausages, pork sausages, and a larger German style wiener. They are served with a generous portion of sauerkraut and roasted potatoes, as well as lingonberry sauce to go with the blood sausage. For another traditional Estonian Christmas dish, try the roasted pork and boiled potatoes.

■ Kuldse Notsu Kõrts On a cold winter’s night, step into this cosy little inn, in the heart of Tallinn’s Old Town. At Kuldse Notsu Kõrts, they offer a Christmas menu, so you can try the food without putting in all of the work that goes into its preparation. On offer this year

will be an assortment of Estonian Christmas favourites, including blood sausage. Or, if you are extra hungry, try the sausage feast with five different kinds of sausages, including blood sausages that come served with sauerkraut, lingonberry sauce and mustard.

■ Eesti Söögituba What was truly great about the dishes at Eesti Söögituba, was that they came in manageable sized portions, meaning you will have room to try a few different dishes, or have room for dessert. The Christmas menu had not yet been published at the time this article went to print, but you can certainly expect to see some traditional favourites on this menu too. ■

Eesti Söögituba

Location MEKK Suur-Karja 17/19, Tallinn Old Town I2. Liisu Juures Raekoja 13, Tallinn Old Town H1. Eesti Söögituba Pikk 29, Tallinn Old Town G2. Kuldse Notsu Kõrts Dunkri 8, Tallinn Old Town H1.

■ MEKK Chef Rene Uusmees bases his menus on seasonal ingredients and dishes inspired by Estonian culinary traditions. This holiday season you can enjoy a three-course Estonian Christmas menu for 35.

Braised wild boar at MEKK.

Something more traditional ■ Liisu Juures It doesn’t get more central than a meal at Liisu Juures in the Town Hall Square. Located in a warm and inviting cellar in Tallinn’s Old Town, this is the place to come for good food, and good Estonian hospitality. If you want to try Estonian Christmas food, look for blood sausage and roasted pork. As a main, the selection of sausages may seem daunting, but the sausages themselves are very

Kuldse Notsu Kõrts is a cosy little inn, in the heart of the Old Town.

Try some traditional food at the Christmas Market in Town Hall Square.

Food Souvenirs

Take something home with you

Muhu bread

NOP is a cosy little café and organics shop located in Kadriorg. Every year they cook up some delicious treats, both sweet and savoury, to take home with you. Here’s a look at what they are offering ring this season. NOP’s apple and cranberry erry chutney, with just a hint off spice makes a delicious accompanimpaniment to roast meats or cheese. heese. Estonians cover their Christmas ristmas tables with all kinds of preserved eserved vegetables made from the summer’s

harvest. NOP is keeping with ha that tra tradition and offering cabbage with champagne and honey, as well as marinated nated organic pumpkin. pumpk For thing someth on the swee-side, try ter side NOP’s Christst-

Marinated pumpkin

Cabbage with champagne and honey

mas cake, gluten-free ee chocolate, orange, and apricot cookies, s, or gingerbread. gingerbr Want tto make your own at yo home? NOP ho P sells both regular sel aand gluten-free gingerbread dough, and their own homemade icings coloured with natural ingrecolo dients like beetroot, turmedien ric aand carrot, wheatgrass, lemon peel. or le ■

Location Locati NOP Köleri 1, Tallinn B3.

Estonian Christmas Beers Every year local breweries release Christmas beers, which b are usually dark stouts and some with a higher alcohol content too. Look for some of the following, available at grocery stores and other shops that sell alcohol around the country: ■ Saku Pühadeporter, Saku Õlletehas, 6.9% ■ Jõuluporter, A. Le Coq, 6.5% ■ Jõulusokk, Viru Õlu, 6.0% ■ Jõululegend, Puls, 4,5%


T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 3

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shopping Some light reading

SAILING AGAINST THE AGAINS WIND  JAAN N KROSS €25

New and used English language books can be found at Slothrop’s in the Old Town. They have a good selection of books about Estonia, and even some translated works of some famous Estonian authors.

INHERIT IT THE FAMILY  VELLO VIKER KAAR €18

INTO EXILE  ELIN IN TOONA GOTT TO SCHALK SCH €13 TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

Gift Guide

Get your holiday shopping done while on vacation in Tallinn. Where to buy Slothrop’s Pikk 34, Tallinn Old Town G2 Paul Pikk Pikk 36, Tallinn Old Town G2 Hää Eesti Toit Viru 3, Tallinn Old Town H2 Etno.ee Viru 23, Tallinn Old Town H3 Tunor Aia 10a, Tallinn Old Town G3

HAT €25 (Etno.ee)

SOCKS €2.90 (Etno.ee)

Keeping K i W Warm Estonians are used to cold weather. You’re You re guaranteed to stay warm w with Etno. these accessories from Etno o.

KEHRWIEDER KE EHRWIEDER CHOCOLATE, various flavours 100g €5.80 var (Hää Eesti Toit) (Hä

Stocking Stuffers

HOUSE €6 (Paul Pikk)

If the way to someone’s heart is through their stomach, then don’t leave without buying a few Estonian artisan chocolates.

Bottoms up! Everyone has tried Estonian vodka,, but have you tried Birch vodka? It’s a pererfect alternative in all your vodka-based ased cocktails. SKATES €10.30 (Paul Pikk) SK

KASEVIIN 75cl €31,20 (Hää Eesti Toit)

NEWSPAPER BIRD €12 (Paul Pikk) MEN’S GLOVES €19.50-€50.90 WOMEN’S GLOVES €32.00 - €47.50 Keep your hands warm while using your mobile phone with these gloves from Tunor.

Decorate! SHOT GLASS S €10 (Paul Pikk) Sip your Eston Si EEstonian i vodka dk ffrom these h cute clay shot glasses.

Paul Pikk boutique has many gorgeous ornaments for your tree; here are some of our favourites


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shopping

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 3

Shopping in Tallinn ■ Department Stores Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. B3. The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store. Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. B2. This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

■ Central Shopping

Centres

Shopping Spotlight: Postimaja This old central post office has been converted into Tallinn’s newest shopping centre. prepared foods for something quick and easy on the go. Or if you want sit and eat, the Reval Café, a chain of coffee stores in Tallinn offers pastries and light meals, with coffee ofcourse. ■

TEXT:KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

There is no lack of good places to shop in Tallinn’s city centre. The Postimaja shopping centre just opened its doors earlier this autumn to add to the great variety of shopping already in the city. Just across the street you have the Viru shopping centre, which houses Estonia’s department store Kaubamaja. The luxury shopping centre Foorum is also opposite, and the Rotermann quarter, known for its design boutiques, top restauPostimaja has rants and cafes, is something for not too far away everyone. either. You certainly won’t get bored with the great selection! The décor at Postimaja has a postal theme. The floor numbers are marked on stamp shaped squares. A central escalator makes it really easy to get from floor to floor.

Location The central post office.

If you are looking for a post office, it can be found in the basement. This location has everything to cover your postal needs. The Rimi grocery store has a great selection of snacks and

Postimaja Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2 Foorum Narva mnt 5, Tallinn B2 Rotermann Quarter Rotermann 8, Tallinn B2 Viru Keskus Viru 6, Tallinn B2

Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2 The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2 This modern shopping centre in the newly renovated Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands. Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2. One of Tallinn’s newest shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket. Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2 Twenty years ago the site of this shopping centre was nothing but a parking lot, right beside the Hotell Viru. In 2004, it turned into a modern shopping complex with over 100 stores.

■ A bit further out Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57. This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well as a store for everything you might need for your sauna. Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port. A modern mall just outside of the city centre.

What’s inside Postimaja: ■ H&M – Clothing and accessories for men, women, and children. ■ Rademar – Sports apparel ■ NS King – Men’s, women’s, and children’s footwear.

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2 Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques.

■ New Yorker – Danish clothing store for men and women. ■ Pere Optika – Eyeglasses for the whole family. ■ Benu Apteek – Pharmacy

■ Eesti Post – Post Office and small gift shop. ■ Rimi – Grocery store with a good selection of prepared foods. ■ Reval Café – Tallinn chain of cafes.

Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3. A shopping centre in the west end of the city. Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Free bus from the port. This massive centre was completed

in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world. Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja). A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants. Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65. Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn.

■ Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. A3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoes can be found as well.

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. A3. The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops. Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. A3. A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more. SadaMarket, Kai 5. A2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

■ Food Markets Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. A1. Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. C3. Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. A2. Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a. Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a. Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8. A2. Sadama Turg – Sadama 25.


T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 3

beauty

15 In the news

RELAX AND UNWIND Beauty, luxury, and indulgence at Sinine Salong. TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

The Hydradvance treatment lasts 80 minutes and leaves your skin soft and hydrated.

Friday morning and Sinine Salong is bustling with clients waiting for manicures and pedicures, haircuts and styling, or massages and facials. It is my first time at Sinine Salong and I feel like a regular already –friendly service from chatty staff makes me feel right at home. It was recommended that I try the Sothys Hydradvance treatment, which is a facial with two masks and massage. With the drying winter weather up ahead, a moisturizing facial was just what the doctor ordered. What makes this facial particularly special is that while the masks are setting, your neck, and shoulders, or arms and hands are massaged. The Hydradvance treatment lasts 80 minutes, and afterwards you skin feels soft and hydrated. Marilin, my cosmetician also applied some light make up after the procedure, which meant that I could go on with my day. Regular clients from Estonia and abroad have been coming to Sinine Salong for years, so many in fact, that they had to expand. Come December, a second spa location will open right next door in the Postimaja Shopping Centre, so close that you could easily run from the Nordic Hotel Forum to

the spa, and only be outside for a few seconds. The new spa will feature couples rooms, and a spa lounge, where guests can enjoy tea and light snacks, or for a truly indulgent experience, a glass of champagne! Some new treatments have been added to the long list of services already offered by Sinine Salong, like a hot stone pedicure or the stress buster massage, three massages in one. The new spa is also childfree, meaning you must be at least 16 to enter. This ensures total relaxation and quiet. Sinine Salong uses top of the line products and even many organic ones, like organic hair colour. Grete and Aili, managers at Sinine Salong also assured their regular clients that prices will not go up. Both locations will offer hairdressing services, manicures, and pedicures as well. The extra space means that Sinine Salong can accommodate more clients, but Grete and Aili told me that bookings are still advised. ■

Location Sinine Salong Ilusalong Viru väljak 3, Tallinn (Nordic Hotel Forum, 1st floor) Sinine Salong Spa Narva mnt 1, Tallinn (Postimaja Shopping Centre, 4th floor)

KLD – Karl Lennart selected designs Joakim Karl Lennart Eriksson began his career in 1980 when he was only 15 years old. His company, Karl Lennart specialises in jewellery, accessories, and clothing. Visit their new store in the Foorum Shopping Centre (Narva mnt 5) and see the beautiful and unique designs for yourself.

Kohuke Sets World Record Back in October, a 537-kilogram kohuke successfully broke a Guinness world record. A kohuke is a cube of sweetened curd covered by chocolate, a favourite Soviet era treat. It was invented in 1949 in Latvia. The previous record for largest kohuke was only 50 grams.

Estonian Air to Fly to Croatia Starting in May 2014, the Estonian national carrier Estonian Air will begin offering seasonal flights to Split Croatia. Flights will run on Saturdays from 10 May to 27 September, and then on Wednesdays and Saturdays from 18 June to 27 August. Split is the second largest city in Croatia.

French Hotel Group to Expand to Estonia Accor, the French hotel chain has plans to open a new location in Tallinn’s city centre. Accor has signed an agreement with the Estonian real estate development company Palmgrupp OÜ for two hotels. Accor would bring its Adagio and Ibis trademarks to Estonia. The company already operates in 92 countries worldwide.

A beautiful smile creates new opportunities!

LUMEN DENTAL CLINIC more than 20 years of solid experience in dentistry!

The friendly staff is always happy to help at Sinine Salong.

Viimsi SPA +372 60 11 812 info@lumen.ee www.lumen.ee


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december events

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 3

■ Town Hall Square Christmas Market

■ A Peek at the Deck of the Titanic

Get into the holiday spirit at the annual Christmas market. Browse the beautiful handicrafts and pottery of Estonian artisans and artists; enjoy traditional Estonian Christmas food, like blood sausage and sauerkraut. Sip mulled wine and admire the enormous tree in the centre of the square. Children will get a chance to meet Father Christmas, and visit the animals at the small petting zoo.

Titanic – The Artefact Exhibition will bring the history of this famous ship to Tallinn. There are over 200 objects on display that were found near the wreck of the Titanic, at a depth of four kilometres. The visiting exhibition will also explore the luxury ship’s cabins and hallway in the spirit of 1912.

22 November – 8 January.

Until 31 March, Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam), Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn.

■ Upcoming Holiday Concerts in Tallinn Christmas Jazz 28 November – 13 December Various Locations

The Nutcracker, 1, 4, 8, 14, 15, 18, 21, 28 December, 4 January National Opera Estonia

Tchaikovsky Symphony Orchestra (Moscow) 4 December Nokia Concert Hall

Christmas concert Lux Aurumque (Light and Gold) 21 December St. John’s Church (Jaani Kirik)

Estonian National Opera Christmas Concert

Christmas Village Magic

22 December St. John’s Church (Jaani Kirik)

Christmas Concert. Arsis hand bell ensemble 25 December Estonia Concert Hall

Corelli Music. Messiah 29 December St. John’s Church (Jaani Kirik)

13-15 DECEMBER Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn

The Christmas Village at the Open Air Museum fascinates with its beauty and atmosphere. The Open Air Museum celebrates Christmas like their forefathers did hundreds of years ago. Children play Christmas games, Christmas dishes are on offer at

the local tavern, gingerbread cookies are baked in the cottage, and Christmas decorations are prepared. Get into the Christmas spirit with Christmas concerts too! Rocca al Mare Shopping Centre is within walking distance. Take buses 21 or 21B from the Baltijaam train station, or bus number 22 from the city centre. ■

■ New Year’s Eve Ball. Ball in Savoy This year’s annual New Year’s Eve ball will feature Pál Ábrahám’s operetta in three acts. The evening includes beautiful music, dining, and dancing. Bring in the New Year in 1930s style! 31 December, Estonian National Opera, Estonia pst 4, Tallinn Photo: EAS

The Art of Gingerbread Gingerbread Mania will take place for the 8th time in a row. “At this year’s event there will be 125 artists, designers, and architects making their creations out of gingerbread. Their inspiration will be art history and famous artists. You can enjoy paintings, sculptures, and buildings that are all made of gingerbread,” says the event organiser Pelle Kalmo.

The exhibit is open daily from 11.00-18.00, except for the 24th and 31st of December when it is open 11.00-15.00. The exhibit is closed 25th December and 1st January. ■

Gingerbread Mania! 19 December – 8 January Design and Architecture Gallery Pärnu mnt 6, Tallinn B2

Art history is this year's theme.


WELCOME TO THE ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM!

An Estonian village in the capital of Estonia Christmas Village on December 13-15 bread baking on Härjapea farm on December 6-8 food Sundays on Härjapea farm horse and carriage rides, handicraft shop and village shop from the 1930s, Estonian national food at the inn Open daily at 10-17 (closed Dec 24, 25, 31) Buses: 21 and 21B from the Balti jaam train station. City Tour Blue Line from Viru Square. Vabaþhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. Ph. +372 654 9100, www.evm.ee.

SEE THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN EXCELLENT AND ORDINARY LENSES.

-20% -50% -70% PEREOPTIKA Aia 2, Tallinn, WW Passaaz, tel +372 56820045 STOCKOPTIKA Tartu mnt 18, Tallinn (Opposite Stockmann) tel+372 56820044 +/-Optika Tartu mnt 11D, Tallinn (In the Sampo courtyard) tel+372 56820043

DRESS CLOTHES FOR ALL AGES AND SIZES ACROSS FROM STOCKMANN IN TALLINN 5"356 ./5 5"--*// r XXX DPOUNPEB FF 5FM r 0QFO .PO 'SJ 4BU

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TALLINNA REAALKOOL

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EESTI PANGA MUUSEUM

Free entrance

ESTONIA SOLARIS

Eesti Pank Museum Tue-Fri 12:00–17:00 Sat 11:00–16:00 Estonia pst 11, Tallinn

Money in society History of money in Estonia History of Eesti Pank Eesti Pank and price stability

Come and discover the Eesti Pank Museum! www.eestipank.ee

The Baltic Guide is now on Facebook!

'Like' us and.... get the latest info on tourism in Estonia be the first to know about upcoming events let us know what you think, leave your comments and suggestions

MAD MURPHY ’S

Opened Monday-Thursday 10:00 - 02:00, Friday -Saturday 10:00 - 04:00, Sunday 11:00- 02:00

irish pub & grill • Largest whisky selection in Estonia • Live music & karaoke • Located in the old town, overlooking the Raekoja plats (Town Hall Square) Mßndi 2, Tallinna Phone: +372 6 011 070 info@madmurphys.ee

www.madmurphys.ee


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museum

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 3

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES TALLINN

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum)

■ Museums

Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuuseum.ee Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17 May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum)

25 Years of the Popular Front A breath of fresh air before Estonian re-independence.

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum) Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.ee Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17 July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20

TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1G. www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee We-Su 10–17

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum) Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3 www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5 www.kumu.ee Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18 May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17

TARTU

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum)

■ Museums

Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2 www.tmm.ee. We-Sa 10-18

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/ 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda) L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18

Estonian Literary Museum (Eesti Kirjandusmuuseum) Vanemuise 42, Tartu www.kirmus.ee. Mo-Th 9 - 17, Fr 9 - 16.30

Estonian National Museum (Eesti Rahva Muuseum) Kuperjanovi 9, Tartu. www.erm.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

Estonian Sports Museum (Eesti Spordimuuseum) Rüütli 15, Tartu. www.spordimuuseum.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum) Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17 Winter by appointment only.

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18

KGB Cells Museum (KGB Kongide Muuseum) Riia 15b, Tartu. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. Tu-Sa 11- 16

Museum of the 19th Century Citizen of Tartu (19. Saj. Tartu Linnakodaniku Muuseum) Jaani 16, Tartu. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee. We-Su 10-15

Postal Museum (Postimuuseum)

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU)

Rüütli 15, Tartu www.erm.ee/en/visit/postal-museum. We-Su 11- 18

Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19

Tartu City Museum (Tartu Linnamuuseum)

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

Narva 23, Tartu. Tu-Sa 11- 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee

Old Observatory (Tähetorn) Lossi 40, Tartu Tu-Su 10 - 18. http://www.ajaloomuuseum.ut.ee/tahetorn

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum)

Tartu Song Festival Museum (Tartu Laulupeomuuseum)

Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30

Jaama 14, Tartu Tu-Sa 12 - 18. http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum) Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum) Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

25 years is long time in recent Estonian history. So long in fact that objects from this time were placed in the Popular Front Museum, which opened on 1st October. It was on this day that the Popular Front was founded 25 years ago. Savisaar’s supporters founded the People’s Party in 1991. During that time, Edgar Savisaar was chosen as chairman, who had launched the idea able to cast aside small differences and work a few months earlier on live television. The together for a common goal. Front’s task was to improve Estonia’s situaTallinn’s mayor Edgar Savisaar, just tion in the Soviet Union through local deci- before his re-election, opened the musesion-making. Perestroika gave the opportu- um. His Centre Party holds the majority nity to develop local government elections of seats on city council. Other Parties criand non-communist candidates could run ticised the timing of the opening of the as well. Thoughts to regain independence museum as a campaign stunt. If this was came later. the thought behind it, it indeed worked. The Popular Front united Estonians and Savisaar’s Party won over half of the seats, enjoyed much support. They gained a higher and Edgar remained mayor. ■ standing in the 1990 Supreme Council elections, which allowed Savisaar to be elected Location as Prime Minister. The opposing party at the Rahavarinde Museum, Vabaduse väljak. time consisted mainly of communists. Under Vabaduseväljak (Freedom Square) The Popular Front did not last long, already in 1990, the party divided with Insight into the life Marju Lauristin leading the Social Demoin Estonia during three occupations cratic Party. (1940-1991) Savisaar’s supporters founded the Temporary People’s Party in 1991. The Party took part exhibitions in the first presidential elections as well. Letters to Sala (the French Children Their candidate Rein Taagepera, who receiof the Holocaust Foundation) ved 25 of votes, came in third place. Boris Vildé and the French Resistance The Popular Front also had a role in the (Musée National d’Histoire Naturelle) process of the re-independence of Estonia, MUSEUM OF OCCUPATIONS which is why the museum opened. PropaToompea 8, 10142 Tallinn ganda materials, photos, audio recordings, www.okupatsioon.ee as well as film materials are on display. This muuseum@okupatsioon.ee Tel +372 66 80 250 small and nice museum gives a clear picture Open Tue-Sun 11.00 - 18.00 of the people and the time, when we were

Tallinn City Museum branch museums: includes the following

www.linnamuuseum.ee

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Tartu Toy Museum (Tartu Mänguasjamuuseum) Lutsu 8, Tartu www.mm.ee. We – Su 11 – 18

City Hall Museum (Raemuuseum) Raekoda, Tartu (Town Hall Square) http://linnamuuseum.tartu.ee/?m=4 15.09-14.05 Mo 9-18, Tu-Fr 9-17, Sa-Su 10-14 15.05 -14-09 Mo-Fr 9-18, Sa-Su 10-17

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■ Art Museums & Galleries 4

■ Art Museums & Galleries Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1 www.adamson-eric.ee We-Su 11–18

Tartu Art Museum (Tartu Kunstimuuseum) Raekoja plats 18, Tartu, http://www.tartmus.ee We-Sa 12:00 - 18:00, Su 11:00 - 18:00

Tartu Art House (Tartu Kunstimaja) Vanemuise 26, Tartu, www.kunstimaja.ee We-Mo 12-18

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1 CITY MUSEUM at 17, Vene Street The Tallinn City Museum is housed in a medieval merchant’s dwelling in the centre of the Old Town. It got the European Museum Forum’s nomination in 2003. The museum and its café are open: Wed-Mon 10.30 am-6 pm 2 Remodelled MUSEUM KIEK IN DE KÖK and BASTION PASSAGES at 2, Komandandi Road 3 New! THE MAIDEN TOWER MUSEUM-CAFÉ at Lühike jalg 9a Exhibition open Mon-Sun 11.30-19.00 Café open Mon-Sun 11.30-22.00 4 PHOTO MUSEUM at 4/6 Raekoja Street, 5 CHILDREN’S MUSEUM at 16, Kotzebue Street 6 HOUSE OF PETER I at 2, Mäekalda Street 7 MUSEUM MIIA-MILLA-MANDA at 21c, Koidula Street Colourful theme museum for children Writers’ museums with authentic interiors: 8 A. H. TAMMSAARE MUSEUM at 12a, Koidula Street 9 E. VILDE MUSEUM at 3, Roheline Aas

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PUBLIC TRANSPORT

1 2

Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. Tourists can purchase a ticket from the driver for 1.60€. Please have exact change ready. In 2013 a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free. Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader. Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee

KOPLI

1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati

Maleva Maleva

Sirbi

Sitsi Lõime Angerja

Madala

KALAMAJA

PÕHJA-TALLINN Ehte Volta

Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5 6 7

Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Balti jaam – Keskuse Balti jaam – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Väike-Õismäe Balti jaam – Väike- Õismäe

1 2 3 4

Balti jaam Telliskivi

Kadriorg – Kopli Ülemiste– Kopli Kadriorg – Tondi Ülemiste – Tondi

Kolde puiestee Ädala Ristiku Sõle Ülase

Hipodroom

Humala Looga Mustjõe

Taksopark

Pirni

Hipodroom

Zoo

Mooni Koskla

Välja Haabersti

Taksopark Koskla

J. Poska

KADRIORG Balti jaam Mere pst Hobujaama L. Koidula 1, 3 Tallinna Htl. TallinnOLD Viru Ülikool TOWN KADRIORG 6 Htl. Tallinn 1 Paberi Tehnika Tõnis3 Estonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi Keskturg Vabaduse soni MAJA väljak Tõnismägi Majaka AutobussiKoidu jaam Sikupilli Kosmos Lubja Koidu UUS-MAAILM

VEERENNI

Bus Station

Tedre

2, 4

Majaka põik

VäikePaala

Ülemiste

Õismäe PR

Nurmenuku

Linnu tee

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

TallinnVäike

Sääse

Kullerkupu

TONDI

Siili

A. H. Tammsaare tee 1 3 5

Kaja

Szolnok

MUSTAMÄE

Tondi

3, 4

3 4

MUSTAMÄE

Mustamäe

driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee.

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

2 4

Löwenruh Aiandi

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on

Airport

KRISTIINE

Karikakra

VÄIKE-ÕISMÄE 7 6 Väike- ÕISMÄE VäikeÕismäe

ÜLEMISTE Pae

Vineeri

Tihase

Sinilille

You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at the Tallinn Airport:

1 3

Marja

Sinilille

Car Hire Budget – www.budget.ee Europcar – www.europcar.ee Hertz – www.hertz.ee National – www.europcar.ee Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

Linnahall Port

4 7 5

Kelmiküla

Lille

HAABERSTI

Põhja pst

Nisu

Trams

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transport

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 3

Lepistiku

Akadeemia tee KESKUSE Männi Vambola Mustamäe Liivaku Keskuse 9 4 Raja Keemia Ehitajate tee

JÄRVE

TALLINN CITY TOUR

PIRITA

Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

LASNAMÄE

KOPLI KALAMAJA PELGULINN

ROCCA AL MARE

PORT

OLD TOWN

MERIMETSA VEERENNI

KADRIORG

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets start at 13€. www.citytour.ee

■ Taxis Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

■ BY BUS: Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee From the bus station to the city: tram no. 2, bus no. 17, no. 23

Linda Line Express - www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line - www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

■ BY TRAIN: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

■ BY AIR::

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero. ■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists. ■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways.

■ All cars must carry a warning triangle,

wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night. ■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. ■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid penalty.

Emergency Numbers: PU H E L I N N UPhone MERO T : P O L IPOLICE I S I 1 1 0 110, , P E LEMERGENCY A S T U S T O I M I 112, 1 1 2 , AUTOMOBILE A U T O A B I 1 81888 8 8 ( 2(24 4 h) H).

Parking Parking in Tallinn can be difficult, especially during working hours. Public parking on city streets will cost between 1.40-4.60 per hour, depending on the area. Blue parking signs will tell you the rate and the paid periods. Some areas, including the Old Town require you

to be for parking at night. Parking passes can by purchased from machines or kiosks. Remember to leave your parking clock (or a written note) indicating the time when you first parked.

■ BY SEA: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee

Lennart Meri eri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) nnujaam) Tartu mnt 101, 01, Tallinn www.tallinn-airport. n-airport. ee/eng From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K FAST CLASS By Copterline – www.copterline.ee Travel between Tallinn and Helsinki City Centres.


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useful information

TALLINN

H EE BB AA LL TT II CC GG UU II D D EE ™™ D D EE CC EE M M BB EE RR 22 00 11 33 TT H Photo: Margus Johanson

www.visitestonia.com

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies

Tartu

24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282

ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE Area: 45,227 km2. Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000. Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country. Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are non-religious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic. Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County. Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu. Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

2013/2014 School Holidays Christmas break 21 December, 2013 5 January, 2014 Spring break 15-23 March, 2014 Summer break 6 June - 31 August, 2014

Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

■ Central Post Offices Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town

EMBASSIES AUSTRIA Vambola 6, 10114 Tallinn +372 627 8740

FINLAND Kohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn, +372 610 3200

ICELAND Tõnismägi 3A, 10119 Tallinn, +372 640 8711

NORWAY Harju 6, 10130 Tallinn +372 627 1000

TURKEY Narva mnt. 30, 10152 Tallinn, +372 627 2880

BELGIUM Rataskaevu 2-9, 10123 Tallinn, +372 627 4100

FRANCE Toom-Kuninga 20, 10122 Tallinn, +372 616 1600

IRELAND Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 681 1888

POLAND Suur-Karja 1, 10146 Tallinn +372 627 8206

UKRAINE Lahe 6, 10150 Tallinn +372 601 5815

BULGARIA A. Lauteri 5E, 10114 Tallinn +372 648 0388

GEORGIA Viru väljak 2, 10111 Tallinn +372 698 8590

ITALY Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 627 6160

PORTUGAL Kohtu 10, 10130 Tallinn +372 611 7468

UNITED KINGDOM Wismari 6, 10136 Tallinn +372 667 4700

CANADA Toom-Kooli 13, 10130 Tallinn, +372 627 3311

GERMANY Toom-Kuninga 11, 15048 Tallinn, +372 627 5303

LATVIA Tõnismägi 10, 10119 Tallinn, +372 627 7850

RUSSIA Pikk 19, 10123 Tallinn +372 646 4175

CZECH REPUBLIC Lahe 4, 10150 Tallinn +372 627 4400

GREECE Pärnu mnt 12, 10148 Tallinn, +372 640 3560

LITHUANIA Uus 15, 10111 Tallinn +372 631 4030

SWEDEN Pikk 28, 10133 Tallinn +372 640 5600

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Kentmanni 20, 10116 Tallinn +372 668 8100

DENMARK Wismari 5, 10136 Tallinn +372 630 6400

HUNGARY Narva mnt 122, 13628 Tallinn, +372 605 1880

NETHERLAND Rahukohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn Tel. +372 680 5500

TOURIST INFORMATION Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoda plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere

Event and Concert Tickets

Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina

Phone calls ■ There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

■ Tickets to just about any event or concert in Estonia can be purchased on-line at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro. Or, visit their most central locations at: Piletilevi: Viru Shopping Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2 Ticketpro: Solaris Shopping Centre, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn B2 Piletimaailm (Eesti konsert): Estonia pst 4, Tallinn B2

Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru

Accepted in nearly 100 locations, the Tallinn Card gives you free entrance and discounts.

Free Wifi ■ Yes, that’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

Tallinn Card is available at: Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks, Kullassepa 4/Niguliste 2, from A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn hotels. www.tallinncard.ee.

■ Useful Phrases please...........................................palun thank you ...................................aitäh, tänan excuse me ..................................vabandage hello..............................................tere, tervist good morning ..........................tere hommikust good day.....................................tere päevast good evening............................tere õhtust good night .................................head ööd goodbye .....................................nägemist, head aega all the best..................................kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.......................head reisi bon appetite .............................jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ............terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

■ Currency Exchange Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted. Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.


Photo: Jarek J천epera

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ŠRegio 2008 KL-8-026 HAAPSALU 175 IKLA MAAKONNAD 347 288 KOIDULA 84 148 335 KUIVASTU HARJUMAA IDALĂ„Ă„NEVIRUMAA VIRUMAA 158 221 408 73 KURESSAARE 56 228 403 121 106 KĂ„RDLA JĂ„RVAMAA RAPLAMAA HIIUMAA 312 349 267 357 431 368 NARVA JĂ•GEVAMAA 108 67 253 81 155PĂ„RNUMAA 161 291 PĂ„RNU SAAREMAA TARTUMAA 199 235 222 245 318 256 167VILJANDIMAA 178 RAKVERE 9 180 356 90 163 47 321 114 208 ROHUKĂœLA PĂ•LVAMAA 99 193 285 144 218 155 211 128 VALGAMAA 99 108 TALLINN 249 209 100 255 328 305 178 174 123 258 186 TARTU VĂ•RUMAA 204 131 173 177 250 257 235 96 149 210 159 78 VILJANDI 22Ëš00' 300 227 62 274 347 353 248 192 194 306 253 71 124 VĂ•RU 22Ëš00'

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ŠREGIO 2008 Riia 24, Tartu 51010 tel +372 738 7300




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