The Baltic Guide ENG April 2015 by The Baltic Guide

a p r i l 2 0 15

Shopping Extravaganza Street Food in Tallinn Summer Event Guide

Spring is in the Air Nightlife – Club Hollywood vs Club Privé

www.balticguide.ee

ENGLISH EDITION

Your free guide to Estonia

what The best things where to seedoandin when Estonia

editorial

t h e b a lt i c g u i d e ™ a p r i l 2 0 1 5

Spring in Estonia organising the Tchaikovsky Festival, in honour of the composer’s 175th anniversary. To help you get a start with your summer travel plans, we’ve also compiled a list of the summer’s biggest events, with more to be announced in the upcoming months. Whatever music or activities you like, there is sure to be something for everyone.

Contents

Happy travels! Kristina Lupp Editor-in-chief

3 editorial 5-6 sightseeing

April Highlights 01 Top Stars of Jazz and Estonia’s Best Musicians

restaurants 8-9 restaurants: umami masha street food in Tallinn

Photo: Jazzkaar Promo

Photo: Lauri Laan

This year’s Jazzkaar jazz festival will bring Grammy Award winning singer Gregory Porter and saxophone legend David Sanborn to Tallinn. During the week-long festival you can see some great Estonian artists too. The festival takes place April 17-26 at the Telliskivi Creative City.

02 Walpurgis Night in Tallinn Walpurgis Day in Tallinn is a regular holiday, with the same kind of carnival type feeling. In the countryside, it’s celebrated with bonfires and sometimes you can even see a witch.

shopping

Hilma af Klint (1862–1944) was a pioneer in abstract art, whose works were not seen by the public for a long time. The central elements of the Swedish artist’s work are colour, mysticism, souls, and spiritualism. The exhibit, on loan from the Stockholm Moderna Museet runs from March 13 to July 7.

04 Horror and Fantasy The Haapsalu Horror and Fantasy Film Festival (HÕFF) will take place from April 23-26 in the small seaside town. The festival features horror, fantasy, and science fiction films.

05 Student Party The Tartu Spring Days will take place April 27 to May 3, bringing thousands of students together in the university town. The programme includes a dance marathon, pub rally and the traditional boat race on the Emajõe River.

Pick up your free copy at:

april 2015

Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Contributors: Stuart Garlick Design: Evelin Linholm Photography: Andrei Chertkov Printing House: AS Kroonpress

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones,

O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seitse Merd Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Your Comments n We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

Contact Information Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee Marketing Manager: Annika Aavik tel +372 58 502 480

Photo: Andrei Chertkov Model: Elisa Kolk Make up: Iren Tšuprijanovskaja (YSL) Clothes: Nóló, Marimo, NS King Style: #zenjafokin Thanks to: Hotel St.Petersbourg (www.hotelstpetersbourg.com)

03 Pioneering Abstract at KUMU

10-11 nightlife 12-13 summer events 14-15 shopping 16 april events 17 walking tour 18 museum 19 getting around 20 transport 21-22 maps and information

@ balticguide_en

fter a mild winter, signs of spring can already be seen throughout Estonia. Early spring flowers are starting to appear from the ground, the snow has melted away, and the days are getting longer. But probably the surest sign that summer is just around the corner is that on sunny days, everyone wants to be out on the patios enjoying the sun. Another sign of summer is that the festival season is starting. In April, you can enjoy some great concerts at the annual Jazzkaar jazz festival, as well as during the Estonian Music Days. And if you are a fan of classical music, the Estonian National Opera will be

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sightseeing

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Photo: T. Tuul

Must-see sights of the Old Town in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick. Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn B1.

Text kristina lupp, Photos Andrei Chertkov

Viewing Platforms Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arms length. The red tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn B1. Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church was even taller in medieval times and the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn B1. Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets. Tallinn B1.

Raeapteek The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location, in the Town Hall Square. Tallinn Old Town H1. Photo: Anneli Tandorf

Raekoja plats Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s.

Toompea Castle The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Riigikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn B1.

Tallinn Old Town H 1-2.

Katariina käik

Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene. Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants. Tallinn Old Town H 2-3.

Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels

St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik) Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath, but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea, was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town E2.

The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means, “look into the kitchen”

Paks Margareeta Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 metres and the walls are up to 6.5 metres thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn, if arriving by sea. Pikk 70,Tallinn A2.

Hop on, Hop off Bus Tour

KGB Museum

Town Hall Square

Kiek in de kök

A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests. The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours fill up quickly so bookings are recommended. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.

Sometimes you just don’t have enough time to see everything, but on the Tallinn City Tour you just might. Three lines run daily, and best of all, each one passes through the Port of Tallinn, making it even more convenient. The tour operates in ten different languages and is guided by a recorded audio track that follows the sequence of the sights. One ticket is valid for 24 hours. This means that you can travel on all three routes in one day. If you purchase a 24-hour Tallinn Card then your journey on the Tallinn City Tour is free.

n Pick up the Tallinn Card (available from Tourist Information Kiosks and the A & D terminals at the port) for free entrance to many museums, free use of Tallinn city transportation, including the Hop on, Hop off bus (don’t forget to swipe the card), and further discounts all around town. www.tallinncard.ee

sightseeing

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Estonia at-a-glance

Area: 45,227 km². Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000. Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country. Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are non-religious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.

Outside of the Old Town Text kristina lupp, Photos Andrei Chertkov

by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.

Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail.

Kalamaja & Kopli Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. Since the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870, many factories opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafés began to open, and the area continues to grow .

Patarei Prison (Patarei Vangla) Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

Kalaranna 2-2a By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail, just before the Seaplane Harbour.

Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam) Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines built in the UK in the mid 1930s. Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian War of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service. The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI

The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–). 1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn.

Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre and offers a variety of things to see and do. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. A stroll through the ruins and the surrounds, including the small cemetery, is a moving reminder of the past. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day in summer. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only provides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district. A starting point for information on these can be found at:

1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

n Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn.

Tourist Information Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoja plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu

Kadriorg Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century. The park and the palace were built by Peter the Great, who apparently helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.

A quick history of the city of Tallinn

1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish.

Pirita

Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County. Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu. Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes Estonia's capital. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

n Central Post Offices Postimaja Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2. Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1. Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3. Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

n Currency Exchange

Estonian Open Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn.

Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

Holidays

1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

2014/2015 School Holidays Christmas break 20 December 2014- 4 January 2015 Spring Break 14-22 March 2015 Summer Break 4 June - 31 August 2015

New German Schnitzel Restaurant in Tallinn’s Old Town.

Free shot of liqueur when you order a schnitzel.

Pork Schnitzels, Chicken Schnitzels… Always up to 500g

Children’s Menu Available All dishes prepared by our German chef.

New location:

Rüütli 28/30, Old Town

Schnitzel Haus • Open Sun-Thu 12-24, Fri-Sat 12-02 Rüütli 28/30, Old Town • Tel +372 6 450 059 • www.schnitzelhaus.ee

THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD Viru 22, Tallinn, ph. +372 661 5518, www.steak.ee Eteläranta 14, Helsinki, ph. + 358 (0)504198000, www.steak.fi

RAEKOJA PLATS 15 TEL. +372 627 6245 MON–SUN 10–23 WWW.TROIKA.EE Live music every night!

FROM RUSSIA...WITH LOVE

FRESHEST SALAD, PASTA AND PIZZA IN TOWN!

“We were a group of 42 people and we decided to visit the Estonia Concert Hall. On the way back to the hotel, we stumbled upon the Beer Garden, a restaurant in the Old Town. They had a great selection of beers and fantastic food, but the best part was that we got to sit together at one big table! We danced until we could dance no more! Some of us even partied until morning and did not even make it back to the hotel…” Jane, 36; London

VAPIANO FOORUM Hobujaama 10, Tallinn. Near the harbour. VAPIANO SOLARIS Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn Near the National Opera Theatre. Open Sun-Thu 11-23, Fri-Sat 11-24 VAPIANO EESTI FREE WIFI WWW.VAPIANO.EE

VAPIANO HELSINKI Mikonkatu 15, Helsinki Open Mon-Thu 11-23, Fri 11-01, Sat 12-01, Sun 12-21 VAPIANO HELSINKI FREE WIFI

PASTA & PIZZA from

5,50€

WWW.VAPIANO.FI

Aia 10 / Inseneri 1, Old Town, Tallinn info@beergarden.ee Ph.: +372 688 0013; Mob.:+372 565 2004 Fri - Sat 10.00-05.00, Sun - Thur 10.00-00.00

Photo: Mane

restaurants n Mane

n Kuus Hernest

n Café Enflammé

Caucasian food made its way to Estonia during the Soviet period and has stuck around ever since. But we’re not complaining – grilled meat, kebabs covered in lots of onions, and of course dumplings, are just some of the reasons you should try the Armenian cuisine at Mane. Bring a friend or two along and share a few dishes.

As the website states: if it matters where your food comes from and you like a cosy café, this is the place for you. Focusing on local ingredients, Kuus Hernest or Six Peas is open daily and even serves brunch on Sundays. We haven’t had the chance to try it yet, but we’ve heard good things.

This new café wants to be the go-to French café. They specialise in omelettes and crêpes, but also offer quiches and salads. Café Enflammé also has daily specials and a good wine list. The atmosphere is warm and cosy, everything you would expect from a Frenchstyle crêperie.

Lai 6, Tallinn Old Town G1.

Photo: Lauri Laan

The Fifth Flavour

Photo: Lauri Laan

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Brought to you by the owners of Leib Resto & Aed, Umami takes the same passion for good food and wine and has a little a fun.

Herne 6, Tallinn C2.

Pühavaimu 7, Tallinn Old Town G2.

international Text Kristina Lupp, Photos Andrei Chertkov

The beautiful yard and design of Umami is worth the trip itself to the restaurant, located a little ways from Tallinn’s city centre. The house is designed in a 1930s villa style, furnished with retro Scandinavian furniture. Even the speakers at Umami have been refurbished. “We are playing with vintage”, told Kristjan Päeske, coowner of Umami. The house itself is from the 1930s and Kristjan explained that the owner had always wanted to turn it into a restaurant, something that suits the house so well now. Umami is the fifth taste. It’s those flavours like mushroom, tomato, and Parmesan. “At Leib we focus on 100% local cuisine, but at Umami we can have a little fun with it”, explains Kristjan. “We still use local ingredients whenever possible, but the menu incorporates more international cuisine”. Come for lunch or dinner. Umami has weekly lunch specials that are always interesting and tasty. There are also a few vegetarian dishes, and Kristjan assures that some other dishes, like the curries, can be made veggie as well. And as Kristjan is a sommelier, you can be assured of an excellent wine list. In the summertime, the large backyard is open for probably one of the best outdoor dining experiences in the city. Inside, there is a ‘parents with children’ dining room, where kids will stay entertained in the playroom and parents are not too far away. n

Location Kadaka tee 141, Tallinn Ample parking is available in the parking lot beside the restaurant. --------------------Starters: € 7.50 – 9.50 Mains: € 9.50 – 18.9 0 Deserts: € 4.00 – 6-00 ---------------------

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Modern Russian Traditional cuisine in a contemporary setting.

russian Text Kristina Lupp, Photo Andrei Chertkov

Masha restaurant is maybe one of the best-kept secrets for Russian food in Tallinn. They have all of the favourites like borscht, blinis, dumplings, zakushkas, stroganoff, and chicken Kiev. The restaurant is decorated with a modern, yet cosy style and wooden furniture made especially for the restaurant. Here, you will understand the true meaning of Russian hospitality, with large portions, friendly service, and great drinks list, with of course, a great selection of vodka. I decided to try the blinis to start. A large blini, or fluffy pancake came served in a cast iron pan, with a plate of toppings on the side. I went for the blini with red caviar, sour cream and onions, but it can also come with smoked fish or mushrooms.

For the main course I had the chicken Kiev, which did not disappoint with its rich herbed butter that came pouring out with the first cut. And for dessert, as if there was any room for it, I just had to try the quark pancakes, a personal favourite of mine. These are blinis made with curd cheese and served with jam. Come with an empty stomach for a truly great meal with great Russian hospitality. n

Location Restoran Masha Lootsi 14, Tallinn (D- Terminal), A3. Live music and dance performances at the weekends.

--------------------Starters: €4.50 – 19.2 0 Mains: €9.80 – 19.9 0 Deserts: €4.70 – 6.90 ---------------------

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restaurants

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n Meat & Wine

n No99 Restaurant

If you’ve lived in Estonia for any length of time you’ve probably realised that the quality of the local beef is not consistent. Another steakhouse in Tallinn is therefor a welcome gift. Meat & Wine imports beef from Australia and the US and cooks various cuts on their Josper grill. The décor is a bit cheesy, but don’t let that put you off, the steak is worth it.

The restaurant/café at one of Tallinn’s best theatres is under new management. Come for their daily specials, or try something off the regular menu. It’s a favourite lunch spot for many locals and the food compliments the atmosphere.

Väike.Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Sakala 3, Tallinn B2.

Photo: Square Kebab

Estonian Street Food

Square Kebab

Just like many other cities, street food is taking over Tallinn. We’ve put together a list of some of the city’s best places to get your street food fix.

street food Text Kristina Lupp, Photos Andrei Chertkov

n Estonian Burger Factory Pärnu mnt 41a, Tallinn B1-2.

The gourmet burger trend has a really taken off in Tallinn. We finally had a chance to go and try the burger place everyone has been talking about and here’s the verdict: tasty burgers, but be warned, they are big! The menu offers many different kinds of burgers, including the “Angus and Black Bread”, which adds a bit of an Estonian twist.

n Burger Box Kopli 4, Tallinn A1.

Burger Box is not your regular burger joint – this is burger place with an Asian twist. What does that mean exactly? Think pulled pork burger with crispy kim chi fries on the side. It was not quite open at the time this article was

Momo

Papa Joe's

written, so we haven’t had a chance to test it out, yet. Burger Box is neighbours with Põhjala Brewery’s Speakeasy, so you won’t have to go far in the cold for a great beer, or vice versa.

n Papa Joe’s Sadama 25/4, Tallinn A2.

Located in the port area of Tallinn, Papa Joe’s Falafel has a small menu of vegetarian and meat dishes. Be sure to try the grilled halloumi and sujuk wrap. The falafels are prepared while you wait, and the friend-

Burger Box

ly staff is always chatty and eager to tell you more about the food.

n Momo Kunderi 29, Tallinn B3.

Momo is more a Japanese grocer, than a restaurant, but they offer delicious daily specials that you can eat-in or takeaway. Every day a new dish is offered, like Japanese vegetarian curry, chicken teriyaki, fried prawns with spicy Japanese mayonnaise, or salmon sashimi, just to name a few. All dishes come served with rice.

Estonian Burger Factory

n Square Kebab Vabaduse väljak 9, Tallinn Old Town J1.

This is the place to come to get your fix of kebab in Tallinn. Or, if you’ve never tried a calzone kebab, here’s your chance. Located under Freedom Square, we only wish this place was open later too.

n Kaarmanni Kauplus / Road Food Vanaturu kael 8, H2.

The owners of Olde Hansa, Tallinn’s favourite medieval restaurant opened a small grocery store

in the Old Town. What’s better is the takeaway street food counter that’s open at the front of the shop, where you can enjoy warm sandwiches from 11.00 onwards.

n Bueno Gourmet Telliskivi 60, Tallinn.

This is where you come for a normal sized burger in Tallinn, and this writer’s favourite burger in the city. Located in a food truck that mainly stays in the Telliskivi Creative City, the small menu offers a nice selection of warm sandwiches as well. n

Road Food

nightlife

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Photo: Marko Mäestjärv

Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

Bars & Pubs

Gay

Clayhills

G-punkt

Drink Baar

X-baar

Hell Hunt

Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2.

Karaoke

Mad Murphy’s

Gelsomino Karaoke

Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town G1.

Nimeta Baar

Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar

Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Roseni 13, Tallinn A2.

Protest

Laif Restoran & Karaoke Club

Mere pst 6a, Tallinn A2.

Lai 5, Tallinn Old Town G1

Põrgu

Nightclubs

Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1. Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Hollywood vs. Prive

his month it’s the clash of the titans: a face-off between the major mainstream nightclubs of central Tallinn. We can all find a favourite bar, a preferred corner of the city, for chatting, listening to live music, eating, or even (should the evening take you that way) downing shots. But what about when you’re ”out-out”? When you need the hit of positivity you can only get from being in a sweaty room with 200-300 people jumping to EDM music? For those times, you’ve got to go for the giants.

Club Hollywood Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I1.

The classic guilty pleasure, Hollywood is the place no Tallinner will admit enjoying - but regularly filled to capacity at weekends, someone must be. Hollywood’s ranks are swelled in the summer by a regular trickle of tourists, drawn to the club by its central Old-Town location. There are regular events, such as the monthly Grind drum-andbass gathering, that tend to fill the old Stalinist Sõpruse Theatre. It was at Grind that I saw the best and worst of Club Hollywood. Queuing for two hours to get in is never a pleasant prospect, and there were numerous times in that queue when I hoped the club might send someone out with warm drinks for the punters. But, of course, this is Tallinn, and you’ve got to cowboy up and fend for yourself. Finally getting into the club, the building’s versatility becomes clear. There is a big dance floor, surrounded by standing areas and upstairs you can watch the action. It’s almost like the building’s Russian architects planned a nightclub before the time. There is plenty of space to move around, and the wait is never too long to get served. Overall, it’s a bit like a music festival in a muddy field. A sprightly 23 year-old will revel in the experience, feeling it’s the ideal environment in which to hear music, make new friends, and get off with old

friends. But as soon as you cross over into your thirties, getting sweaty while a guy behind the mixing desk instructs you to ”make some noise” can seem a bit offputting. Partying at Club Hollywood is a young person’s game. If you are one of those, you will not find your life mate, but you will have a good time with similarly uninhibited people, provided you’re not after any subtlety.

Club Privé Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town J1.

Privé is seemingly a smaller brother of Club Hollywood, but somehow they’ve managed to give it more of an inclusive, adult, spin. It might be the relatively friendly security guards stationed on the door, or the way that a full ticket gets you into not only the main part of the club, but also into one of the lounge areas (the other lounge is for VIPs), but the place makes one feel like you’re being welcomed and asked, rather than expected, to enjoy your night. There are frequent guest DJs, as at Hollywood. However the music rarely deviates from the regular chart fare, and that is what the crowd, by and large, wants to hear. Although still a young-ish

. Stuart Garlick is a journalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn. Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.

clientele, people who go to Privé are far more likely than Hollywood visitors to be in their thirties, and as such, are a lot more musically-conservative. You’re likely to hear a few nineties classics alongside ”Uptown Funk” on a Saturday night, but aggressive dubstep, for example, is a rarity. It might be all the better for that. Drinks are about the same price as in Hollywood, but you don’t feel like you’re being fleeced here, because you can enjoy your drinks a lot more when you feel relaxed. The dancing girls and trapeze artists are consistently impressive; only the best are hired. I’m perhaps painting a picture of a staid place – Privé isn’t that. You’ll have a lot of fun here, but without any of the baggage or hassle of standing in the crowds of Hollywood. You get dressed up for a night out hoping to feel special when you go somewhere, and Privé delivers that in spades. n

Photo: Club Privé

Rüütli 4, Tallinn Old Town I1.

The Highlander

Kuninga 1, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Cigar Lounges

Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn Tatari 1, Tallinn B2.

Butterfly Lounge

Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Café Amigo

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.

Chicago 1933

Club Baila

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

La Casa del Habano

Club Hollywood

Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town H1.

Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Sigari Maja

Club Privé

Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Estonian

Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1.

Club Studio

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Karja Kelder

Loung Club Violet

Kochi Ait Tavern

Teater

Kolmas Draakon

Vabank

Seiklusjutte Maalt ja Merelt

Venus

Valli Baar

Late Night Dining

Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town I2. Lootsi 10, Tallinn A3. Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town H2. Tartu mnt 44, Tallinn B3.

Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Live Music

Roseni 9, Tallinn A2.

Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1. Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1. Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Istanbul Kebab

Estonia pst 7, Tallinn B2.

Café Amigo

Loca

Chicago 1933

Söögiplats

Clazz

Taco Express

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2. Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3. Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2.

NYC Piano Bar

Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Rock Café

Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn C4.

Tapper

Pärnu mnt 158g, Tallinn

Tatari 1, Tallinn B2. Tatari 1, Tallinn B2. Suur-Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town I2.

12 Text Kristina Lupp

summer

What’s On This Su

The white night of summer mean that there is no shortage of things to do all over Estonia. CULTURAL EVENTS n 5 – 26 May – Seto Lace Days, Seto Farm Museum, Värska Alevik n 9 May – Narva Spring Fair, Narva n 15 May – Tallinn Day 2015, Tallinn n 15 – 17 May– 38th Türi Flower Fair, Türi n 16 May – Museum Night 2015, Various locations n 30 May – 6 June – Tallinn Old Town Days, Tallinn n 27-31 May – HeadRead, Tallinn n 4-7 June – Tallinn Treff Festival, Tallinn n 4-7 June – XXXV International Hanseatic Days in Viljandi n 4-7 June – Narva Days, Narva n 6 June – Northern Livonia Festival, Häädemeeste n 22 June – 8th Estonian Wife-Carrying Championships and Rapla County Tug-of-War Open, Reonda Village, Kassi-Võllimägi n 23 June – Avinurme Fair, Avinurme n 9-12 July – XVI Medieval Days, Tallinn n 10-12 July – Tallinn Maritime Days 2015 n 10-12 July – Kihnu Sea Party, Kihnu Island n 22 July – Saaremaa Opera Days, Kuressaare n 27 July – 21 August – Pärnu Bluusipäevad (Blues Festival), Pärnu n 31 July – 1 August – Bluesfest ”Augustibluus”, Haapsalu n 31 July – 1 August – Leigo Lake Music Festival, Lutike Village, Leigo Farm n 1 August – Seto Kingdom Day, Obinitsa Village, Meremäe County n 3-8 August – Tartu Love Film Festival TARTUFF, Tartu n 7-9 August – Historical Festival ”Narva Battle”, Narva n 7-8 August – Kuressaare Maritime Festival, Saaremaa n 28-30 August – White Lady Festival, Haapsalu

Tallinn Maritime Days

Photo: Elena Rudi

Viljandi Folk Music Festival Photo: Ahto Sooaru

Tallinn Old Town Days

Tartu Love Film Festival TARTUFF

r events

t h e b a lt i c g u i d e ™ a p r i l 2 0 1 5

ummer in Estonia

. Check out our summer event calendar to see what’s on this summer from May to August. Photo: Jarek Jõepera

FOOD EVENTS n 16-17 May – Dandelion festival in the Romantic Coastline, Neitsiraba Visitors Centre, Kihlepa Village n 12-13 June – Grillfest – Good Food Festival, Pärnu n 13-14 June – Tallinn Street Food Festival, Telliskivi n 31-2 August – Kärdla Café Days, Kärdla, Hiiumaa n 8 August – 9th Kalevipoeg Fish & Water Festival, Tiheda Village, Kasepää n 15 August – Seto Food Day, Setomaa n 20 August – Pickle festival, Tahkuranna Village n 22-23 August – Lüübnitsa Onion & Fish Fair, Lüübnitsa Village n 29-30 August – Summer Into the Jar Harvest Festival, Narva

SPORTS EVENTS n 1 May – 85th Grand Race Around Lake Viljandi, Viljandi n 3 May – 14th Mulgi Cycling Marathon, VIljandi n 10 May – SEB Tartu Jooksumaraton (23/10 km running and Nordic Walking), Otepää n 23 May – SEB Maijooks (May Run), Tallinn n 25 – 30 May – Tour of Estonia 2015 n 31 May – SEB Tartu Cycling Rally (road cycling, 133/71 km), Tartu n 13 June – Narva Energy Run (Narva Energiajooks), Narva n 18-19 July – Yoga Festival, Haapsalu n 31 July – 2 August - TriSmile Otepää Triathlon 2015, Pühajärve, Otepää n 15 August – Night Run Estonia, Rakvere n 23 August – SEB Tartu Inline skating, 42/21 km, Tartu

Leigo Lake Music Festival

CONCERTS n 8-12 June – Tallinn Guitar Festival, Tallinn n 13-14 June – Nargen Festival, Haapsalu n 1-4 July – Õllesummer, Tallinn Song Festival Grounds n 1-5 July – 19th Haapsalu Early Music Festival, Haapsalu n 2-7 July – Juu Jääb Festival, Muhu Island n 3-4 July – Hard Rock Laager 2015, Vana Vigala n 4 July – Schilling Festival of Beautiful Music, Kilingi-Nõmme n 16-19 July – Festival Hiiu Folk, Kassari Village, Hiiumaa n 17-23 June – Suure-Jaani Music Festival, Suure-Jaani n 16-18 July – Mustjala Festival, Mustjala n 23-26 July – XXIII Viljandi Folk Music Festival, Viljandi n 6-16 August – Birgitta Festival, Pirita

CARS & BIKES

SEB Maijooks (May Run), Tallinn

Photo: Promo

n 10-12 July – American Beauty Car Show, Haapsalu n 17-19 July – International Bike Fest “NARVA BIKE“, Narva n 17-19 July – auto24 Rally Estonia, Otepää n 1-2 August – Kiviõli Motocross Festival, Kiviõli

Photo: Õllesummer

Õllesummer

Photo: auto24

auto24 Rally Estonia

shop

Flow

n Department Stores Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. B3. The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store. Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. B2. This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

n Central Shopping Centres

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Free bus from the port. This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world.

Bright colours

Get the look – Stylist tips Text Kristina Lupp, Photos Andrei Chertkov

Basic rules: Choose the right foundation that gives your face a fresh glow. Eyebrows, like always, are important in framing the face, so keep them shaped. You can always go brighter with lip gloss, but look for ones that are less glossy. The hottest colours this season are: old school pink, bright red, purple orchid, and sultry pink. Choose the one that is right for your skin tone and hair colour. And always keep your make up essentials nearby in your purse for a quick touch-up if you need.

Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja). A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants. Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2. Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques. Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2. The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2. This modern shopping centre in the Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.

Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65. Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn.

n Near the port:

For wavy and voluminous hair: 1) Crimp the roots to add volume. It gives hair that standing effect and makes it easier to tease. 2) Curl the hair with a straightener, in any direction. 3) Comb out the curls for a more natural look. 4) Tease the hair, which will give the hair a more glamorous a voluminous look. 5) Twist large chunks of hair to make big curls. Use a medium hold spray to keep a natural effect, leaving the hair flowing and elastic, with shine! n

Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. A3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoe stores.

Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2. One of Tallinn’s newer shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket. Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2. This modern shopping centre houses top name designer stores, great cafés and restaurants, as well as a large bookstore.

n A bit further out Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57. This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well as a store for everything you might need for your sauna.

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. A3. The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops. Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. A3. A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more. SadaMarket, Kai 5. A2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

n Food Markets Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. A1. Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. B3.

Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port. A modern mall just outside of the city centre. Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3. A shopping centre in the west end of the city.

Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. A2. Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a. Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a. Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8. Sadama Turg – Sadama 25. A2.

Where to buy Liina Stein Fashion Pärnu mnt 59, Tallinn B2. NS King Narva mnt 1, Tallinn A2. Continental Moda Tartu mnt 18, Tallinn B3.

MARIMO Müürivahe 17, Tallinn Old Town H3. MOSAIC Mosaic Moetänav Veerenni 24, Tallinn C2.

Stockmann Liivalaia 53, Tallinn B3. Danija Endla 45, Tallinn B1. Suur-Sõjamäe 4, Tallinn C4. Center Salon Solaris Estonia pst 9, 4th floor, Tallinn B2. www.centersalon.ee

pping

t h e b a lt i c g u i d e ™ a p r i l 2 0 1 5

style: #zenjafokin Model: Ethel Tampõld Make up: Christina Paduri (Center Salon) hair: Agnes Lepiste (Center Salon) Thanks to: Kochi Aidad Kohvituba (kochiaidad.ee)

wers in Bloom! and floral patterns bring life back into spring fashion in Tallinn.

1 Say it with daffodils! Hand embroidered daffodil yellow dress – Liina Stein Fashion, €750

5 A simple dress for the office, or make it fancy with a glamorous hat to be the belle of the ball! Dress – MOSAIC (Mosaic Moetänav, Baltika Kvartal) €79.95 Kate Middleton style designer hat – Continental Moda €119

2 Classic spring! Floral dress – Liina Stein Fashion, €175 Beige platform shoes – NS King €49.90

6 An optical illusion and it doesn’t wrinkle! Yellow dress – Continental Moda €249 Shoes – DANIJA €79.99

3 You can’t go wrong with red! Shiny red cocktail dress – Continental Moda (Michaela Louisa) €230 Hat €95, Evening bag €24 – Continental Moda

7 Off to the races! Bursting floral dress – MARIMO €159 Feather fascinator – €56

4 A blouse and skirt combo, suitable for the office or an evening out – MOSAIC €39.95 each Shoulder bag LOVE MOSHINO (available at Stockmann) €199 Silk shawl Global Accessories (available at Stockmann) €12.90

8 Flowing and floral! Dress – MARIMO (price in store) Necklace – Continental Moda €69

april events

t h e b a lt i c g u i d e ™ a p r i l 2 0 1 5

■ Event and Concert Tickets

Photo: Nathan Beddows

Tickets to just about any event or concert in Estonia can be purchased on-line at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro. Or, visit one of their central locations at: n Piletilevi: Viru Shopping Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2. n Ticketpro: Solaris Shopping Centre, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn B2. n Piletimaailm (Eesti konsert): Estonia pst 4, Tallinn B2.

Photo: Promo

“The Great Tchaikovsky” Festival Simple Session 18-19 April Tondiraba Ice Hall, Varraku 14, Tallinn This year celebrates the 15th anniversary of this annual event. Simple Session brings top BMX riders and skateboarders to Tallinn for one weekend of non-stop excitement. Check the website for full programme details. Photo: Jazzkaar Promo

15-19 April Estonian National Opera, Estonia pst 4, Tallinn B2 This year marks the 175th anniversary of the great Russian composer Pyotr Tchaikovsky. In honour of this event, the Estonian National Opera has put together a festival. Programme: 16.04 Tchaikovsky’s opera “The Queen of Spades” 17.04 Tchaikovsky’s Ballet Gala 17.04 Symphony Concert in the Estonia Concert Hall, conductor Nikolai Aleksejev 18.04 Ballet “The Sleeping Beauty” 18.04 Tchaikovsky’s Opera Gala 19.04 Tchaikovsky’s opera “The Queen of Spades” 15.04 Cranko’s ballet “Onegin”

Tallinn TV Tower Run 2015 5 April Tallinn TV Tower, Kloostrimetsa tee 58a, Tallinn The Tallinn TV Tower and the World Federation of Great Towers will hold a tower running challenge for the second year in a row. This promises to be a fun a event for both spectators and participants alike!

Photo: Mati Jüriado

Estonia Music Days

Jazzkaar International Jazz Festival 17-26 April Various locations, Tallinn Jazzkaar is the biggest jazz festival in the Baltics. After 26 years, Jazzkaar still continues to bring some great jazz artists to Tallinn for the ten-day festival. Gregory Porter will play the Nordea Concert Hall on April 23. This year’s programme includes artists from Estonia, USA, Turkey, Albania, Israel, Ethiopia and more.

10-17 April Various locations, Tallinn This distinctive contemporary classical music festival celebrates its 36th year with a fabulous programme of music by some of Estonia’s top composers. Performers will include the Estonian National Symphony Orchestra, the Tallinn Chamber Orchestra, Vox Clamantis, Resonabilis, YXUS Ensemble, and more. Helena Tulve and Time Steiner are the festival directors.

Find Your Home Away From Home The Baltic Boutique Apartments are centrally located in a historical building only 300 m from Tallinn’s Old Town in the bohemian neighbourhood of Kalamaja. Experience Tallinn like a local, with funky restaurants and cafes right at your doorstep. The apartments are stylish, yet comfortable. They have all the modern comforts of your home away from home, like a TV and

DVD player, cable TV, WiFi, kitchenette with microwave, fridge, and kettle. You can spend your free time in the yard or the sauna. You can even book yourself a massage. n

Location Baltic Boutique Apartments Soo 24, Tallinn

Photo: Baltic Boutique Apartments

walking tour

A Church and Parish Named After a Saint

34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45

Kadrina Parish is located in Lääne-Virumaa, less than 90 km east of Tallinn. The population at the beginning of this year was 5018. Text Mikko Savikko, Photos Andrei Chertkov

Tallinn

50 km

Haljala The parish’s name comes from the church of the same name, named after Saint Catherine of Alexandria, and the church was Rakvere built at the beginning of the 16th century. One of the most stunning pieces in the Kadrina church is the chandelier from 1727, which Tapa was donated by a local miller in remembrance of his wife Malle. Near the main doors to the church is a large monument, Catherine’s Memorial. It is a monument to the War of Independ- importance of the sauna in Kadrina can ence, Construction of the monument was be seen by the fact that the current street started in 1920 and was completed in 1926. address Tehnika 8 will be changed to In 1941, the Red Army destroyed it. About Sauna Street. 49 years went by and then it was rebuilt There are great sport opportunities too. in 1990. Part of the original monument In the Sports Centre there is a shooting was found buried and this was used in the range, gym, swimming pool, and halls for ball games. Horse back riding is available reconstruction. There is more in Kadrina than histor- at the Spordikämping, where you can stay ical monuments, of course. Nature lovers for reasonable rates. A single person room adore the lakes and hills of Neeruti. The costs 19€ per night. The Tristvere Café protected area has a total of 14 km of hik- offers a cheap and cheerful dining option, ing trails. In summer, you can admire as well as accommodation for up to ten orchids, includpeople. ing the lady’s Viitna Kõrts slipper orchid ( Ta v e r n ) is also located in (Cypripedium calceolus). Kadrina, which is There are differEstonia’s largest tavern post staent kinds of water tion. Its history lilies that grow in the lakes too. dates back to the Many birds and middle ages. The animals inhabit tavern can accomthe area. modate large The Sauna groups. It is located on the TallinnClub in Kadrina Narva highway. is well known. In the change You can get room there is a to Kadrina by guests list where train, three times you can find the daily. A ticket costs €4.80. It names of many takes one hour Estonian ministers and other and eleven minwell known indiutes to get there. St. Catherine's Church and Monument v i d u a l s . Th e n

Sizes 34-45 www.vivianvau.ee Mon-Fri 11-19 Sat 12-16

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museum

t h e b a lt i c g u i d e ™ a p r i l 2 0 1 5

Lennusadam Seaplane Harbour

Kalar anna

x xx

xxx

Kü ti

Text Mikko Virta, Photos Andrei Chertkov

The joint exhibit Sail or Sink, organised in collaboration with the Seaplane Harbour and the Ahhaa Science Centre, gives an overview of the sea, ships, and forces of nature. Sail or Sink features 14 interactive exhibits and delves into

the middle of a whirlpool and the secrets of the mysterious Bermuda triangle. Parts of the exhibit can be bent, folded, and tried in other ways. And what’s better is that you will create waves and whirlpools. This interactive exhibit will keep the whole family entertained for hours.

Insight into the life in Estonia during three occupations (1940-1991) Temporary exhibitions:

Attacks and Migrations

ma ala

gr i

Vä ik

Va na -K

Diving into the Waves

ur -L

Pa ta

i tare r-Pa Suu

Kö

NB! You can no longer access the Seaplane Harbour from the Culture Kilometre because the path is being dug up. The easiest way to get there is along Soo Street, where you will have to turn right onto Vana-Kalamaja Street and continue on from there along Küti, Oda, and Kalaranna Streets.

re i

Jah

Soo

Rumbi Põhja pu ie

Nii

The most popular is probably the robot submarine, which, while steering it you can learn about the ocean floor. You will certainly understand the Panama Canal when you try to steer a small ship through its locks. Get your adrenaline pumping in the wind chamber and experi-

Sadama

ence strong winds. A small shriek of joy can be heard when climbing through the corridors of a sinking ship, trying to make your way to a lifeboat. Most of the exhibits have touchscreens with fascinating stories of maritime history and other information. It’s a great way

to spend an afternoon with the whole family. n

Location Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam), Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn.

Museums & Galleries TALLINN n Museums Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum) Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1G. www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18.

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18.

MUSEUM OF OCCUPATIONS Toompea 8, Tallinn Open Tue-Sun 11.00 - 18.00 Phone: +372 668 0250 muuseum@okupatsioon.ee www.okupatsioon.ee

stee

Travel Port Terminal A, B

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace

Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5. www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17.

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum) Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3. www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18.

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2. www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We 10-17, Th 10-19, Fri-Su 10-17.

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee. 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17.

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum) Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2. www.tmm.ee. 1.09-31.05 May, Tu-Sa 10-18. 1.06-31.08, Mo-Sa 10-18.

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1. www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/. 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18. 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30.

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda)

L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4. www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18.

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri muuseum) Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3. www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17. Winter by appointment only.

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee. We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18.

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU) Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19.

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1. www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18.

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum)

Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum. ee/fotomuuseum. 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30.

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)

Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3. www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30.

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum)

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2. http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/ basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

n Art Museums & Galleries Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1. www.adamson-eric.ee. We-Su 11–18

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum)

Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuuseum.ee. Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17. May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17.

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)

Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.ee. Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17. July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20.

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum)

Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5. www.kumu.ee. Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18. May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18.

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum)

Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1. www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17. Ticket office closes 16.30.

getting around

tthhee bbaalltti icc gguui iddee ™™ aapprri ill 22001155

19 Ticket Information

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free. Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader. Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee

KOPLI

1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati

Maleva Maleva

Sirbi

Sitsi

Lõime

Angerja

Madala

KALAMAJA

PÕHJA-TALLINN

From the driver

Ehte Volta

Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5 6 7

Nisu

Trams

Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Balti jaam – Keskuse Balti jaam – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Väike-Õismäe Balti jaam – Väike- Õismäe

1 2 3 4

Balti jaam Telliskivi

Kadriorg – Kopli Ülemiste– Kopli Kadriorg – Tondi Ülemiste – Tondi

Kolde puiestee Ädala Lille

Pirni

Zoo

Ülase Taksopark

Hipodroom

Mooni Koskla

Välja

Haabersti

UUS-MAAILM

VÄIKE-ÕISMÄE 7 6 Väike- ÕISMÄE

Õismäe PR

VäikeÕismäe

Nurmenuku

Linnu tee

TallinnVäike

Sääse

Kullerkupu

TONDI

Siili

A. H. Tammsaare tee

1 3 5

Mustamäe

Kaja

Szolnok

Tondi

3, 4

MUSTAMÄE

Lepistiku

Akadeemia tee KESKUSE Männi Vambola Mustamäe Liivaku Keskuse 9 4 Raja Keemia Ehitajate tee

1, 3

KADRIORG

Paberi Keskturg Autobussijaam Lubja Bus Station

NB!

Löwenruh Aiandi

Tallinna Ülikool

L. Koidula

Majaka

ÜLEMISTE

Sikupilli Majaka põik

Vineeri

KRISTIINE

Karikakra

Hobujaama

VEERENNI

Tedre

Sinilille

n single ticket €1.60 n student ticket €0.80 Try to have exact change for the driver. Cards are not accepted. The ticket is valid for one journey only on that specific vehicle. Discounts are only available to ISIC cardholders.

J. Poska Mere pst

Htl. Tallinn OLD Viru 6 TOWN Htl. Tallinn 1 Tehnika Tõnis3 Estonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi Vabaduse soni MAJA väljak Tõnismägi Koidu Kosmos Koidu

Tihase

Marja

Sinilille

Taksopark Koskla

Linnahall Port

4 7 5

Balti jaam

Kelmiküla

Ristiku Sõle

Hipodroom

Humala

Looga Mustjõe

HAABERSTI

Põhja pst

The Smartcard or Ühiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet. ee. A €2 deposit is needed to purchase the Smartcard. If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the beginning of each journey.

2, 4

Pae VäikePaala

Airport

Due to construction, tram lines 2 and 4 will be out of service until autumn. Bus #42 will run between Vesse – A. Laikmaa in the meantime.

JÄRVE

Ülemiste

E-tickets

n 1 hour ticket n 1 day (24h) n 3 days (72h) n 5 days (120h) n 30 days

€1.10 €3 €5 €6 €23

Where to buy

n from the driver n from kiosks n from post offices n online www.pilet.ee (Top up your smartcard with MasterCard or Visa)

Free

n preschool children n adult travelling with children 3 years and under n holders of a validated Tallinn Card

TALLINN CITY TOUR Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

PIRITA

6-118-000

11-800 (+€0.74 / min)

www.pilet.ee, info@pilet.ee

LASNAMÄE KOPLI port

KALAMAJA ROCCA AL MARE

PELGULINN

OLD TOWN

KADRIORG

MERIMETSA VEERENNI

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets 19€ www.citytour.ee

Accepted in nearly 100 locations, the Tallinn Card gives you free entrance and discounts.

Tallinn Card is available at: Tallinn

Tourist Information Kiosks, Kullassepa 4/ Niguliste 2, from A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn hotels. www.tallinncard.ee.

■ Useful Phrases please...................................................... palun thank you.............................................. aitäh, tänan excuse me............................................. vabandage hello........................................................ tere, tervist good morning..................................... tere hommikust good day............................................... tere päevast good evening...................................... tere õhtust good night............................................ head ööd goodbye................................................ nägemist, head aega all the best............................................ kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.................................. head reisi bon appetite........................................ jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health....................... terviseks

How much does this cost?.............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?................................... kas teil on? on teil? where is…............................................. kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean?...................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal)................... kuidas läheb? not bad................................................... pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you........... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you................... oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it?.................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian... mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English?...................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German?............ /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

transport TALLINN

tthhee bbaalltti icc gguui iddee ™™ aapprri ill 22001155 Photo: Margus Johanson

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

n By bus:

■ Phone calls

Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

■ Free WiFi Ye s , t h a t ’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

■ Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE 110 EMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h) ■ Taxis

From the bus station to the city: n tram no. 2 n bus no. 17, no. 23

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: n Blood alcohol level must be zero. n Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists. n The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways. n All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night. n In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. n Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid penalty.

TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

Car Hire You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at the Tallinn Airport: n Budget – www.budget.ee n Europcar – www.europcar.ee n Hertz – www.hertz.ee n National – www.europcar.ee n Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

Parking Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

n By sea:

Parking in Tallinn can be confusing. There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots. The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time – placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle. This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.

CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN:

0,26€ / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fr 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee. n n n n

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

n By train: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

DOWNTOWN / SÜDALINN:

0,58€ / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fi 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

OLD TOWN / VANALINN:

1,15€ / 15 minutes Paid parking around the clock Parking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn. For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parkingin-Tallinn

n Bt air: Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K FAST CLASS By Copterline – www.copterline.ee Travel between Tallinn and Helsinki city centres by helicopter.

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Su of Old Ol Town Map Map uof rtü Old Pa evis Town

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3 Travel Port Travel Port Terminal A, B, C

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Alev-vald Alev

VILJANDI

Maakonna keskus

Haldusjaotus on seisuga 01.04. 2007

Tugimaantee Kõvakattega maantee

Territoriaalmere piir

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3 km 2 1 0

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Pededze 22˚00'

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Kureküla Rannu

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Tihemetsa

Häädemeeste

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Puurmani Tabivere

Saarde Kihnu

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Vastemõisa

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Abruka

Käina

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Maakonna piir Riigipiir, kontrolljoon

VILJANDI

Maakonna keskus

Haldusjaotus on seisuga 01.04. 2007

Tartu rahu piir Territoriaalmere piir

BRASSERIE-RESTAURANT TELETORN Chef de Cuisine

CAFE . PIZZA . RESTAURANT . SUMMER GARDEN

Benvenuto!

Priit Toomits and his kitchen team combine the elements of Japanese freshness and Asian sultriness with French traditions and excellent Estonian ingredients. Welcome to the highest brasserie-restaurant in Northern Europe!

Please book ahead!

NEW! A´la carte menu

Al Bastione is an Italian pizzeria and grill located in Tallinn’s Old Town, where pizza is prepared right before your eyes in a stone oven, as well as different dishes on the grill.

April special offers

A café is located on the first floor where you can enjoy Al Bastione Suveaed French desserts like macaroons and cardamom pastries and don’t forget about the wide variety of coffee either. Exclusive dinner with surprises 14.04 and 12.05

A café is located on the first floor where you can enjoy French desserts like macaroons and cardamom pastries, and don’t forget about the wide variety of coffee either. B R A SS E R I E & R ESTAU R A N T

Restaurant Al Bastione | Viru 23, Tallinn Info and reservations : info@albastione.ee or +372 666 0005

Brasserie & Restaurant Teletorn Open daily: 10 - 23 Kloostrimetsa tee 58a, Tallinn Tel +372 5815 0020 E-mail: restoran@teletorn.ee www.teletorn.ee/restoran

How to get here By bus: 34a, 38 Viru Keskus – Teletorn City Sightseeing Tallinn, green line Mere pst – Teletorn Takso24 +372 640 8927

MAD MURPHY ’S

Opened Monday-Thursday 10:00 - 02:00, Friday -Saturday 10:00 - 04:00, Sunday 11:00- 02:00

irish pub & grill

Första stället i Tallinn när man kommer sjövägen och sista när man beger sig till havs! The first place to come when You arrive and the last place to visit before leaving!

Massor av härliga smakupplevelser!

Levande musik varje dag/ Live music every day 12-15

Taste one of our delicious dishes! Öppet/Open: varje dag/every day 8-19. Köket öppet från kl/ The kitchen open from 8. Sadamarket Shopping Centrum 1a vån/1st floor, 100m från A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals. Sadama 8/Kai 5 (opposite the Sadamaturg), Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, info@seitsemerd.ee, www.seitsemerd.ee

• Largest whisky selection in Estonia • Live music & karaoke • Located in the old town, overlooking the Raekoja plats (Town Hall Square) Mündi 2, Tallinna Phone: +372 6 011 070 info@madmurphys.ee

www.madmurphys.ee

The Most Exciting Estonian Shopping Center

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