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Where to eat Estonian food? Jazzkaar Festival Visit Tartu Interview: Louis Zezeran of Comedy Estonia

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TALLINN HELSINKI STOCKHOLM LONDON WIEN AMSTERDAM BERLIN HAMBURG ISTANBUL

HEALTHY FRESH FAST

The most colourful ideas of spring

PASTA & PIZZA from

4,90 € Foorum Center, Hobujaama 10, Tallinn Near the harbour tfn. +372 6 829 010 Solaris Center, Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn Near the National Opera Theatre tfn. +372 6 285 999

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BEST VENUES IN TALLINN! WELCOME! FIND OUR RESTAURANTS ON THE TALLINN MAP ON PAGE 47

VISIT VAPIANO IN HELSINKI, MIKONKATU 15!

LIIVALAIA 53 • OPEN Mon – Sat 9 – 21 • Sun 10 – 21 • WWW.STOCKMANN.EE


editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 2

3 Contents

Lizz Wright performs at Jazzkaar

Tallinn, a city like no other n 1939, Baroness Irina UngernSternberg wrote an article about Estonia for the National Geographic Magazine. She described Tallinn like this:

I

“The electric sign ordered us to tie ourselves firmly to our seats, since we were landing in Tallinn. Tallinn, the city of reveries and contradicting realities, was hidden in a dreamy fog. Only here and there could I catch sight of a faint outline of its numerous towers….Next morning I set out to explore the city, which is like Peiping in that it is so different from anything else in the world…. The narrow, winding cobblestone streets might have belonged to any medieval Danish or German town, yet in some subtle way they bore a Russian mark of the East. Above the old-fashioned horsedrawn cabs within the city walls, the houses look as if they leaned toward each other for support, so closely huddled together.” While the horse-drawn cabs might be long gone from the streets of the Old Town, the

winding cobblestone streets remain. Wandering through these streets, if one ignores the modern cars, it could be said that this article still reflects the same dreamy town. April is perhaps one of the best times to visit Tallinn. The streets are still relatively quiet. The weather is uncertain, but if there happens to be a sunny day, the city comes back to life. Seating starts popping up outside of restaurants and bars in the main square. In this issue explore Estonia. Taste traditional and modern Estonian cuisine at some of Tallinn’s great restaurants. Do you have a foodie friend? Why not bring them an Estonian food gift? Get a great view of Tallinn from the newly reopened TV Tower, or the viewing platform at the Oleviste church in the Old Town. And new this month, we’ve put together a travel itinerary for you that highlights some points of interest in Tallinn as well as other places around Estonia, to help you make the most of your time in Estonia.

3 editorial 6-7 TOP 7, sights 6 day tripping 7 jazzkaar 10 museum 12 -13 restaurants 14-15 person16 Tartu 17 culture 18-22 information

8 shopping Estonian gastronomy Some tasty souvenirs featuring the true flavours of Estonia.

Kristina Lupp Editor-in-Chief

12-13 restaurants Vanaema juures, Glad Estlander, and Neh Taste traditional, medieval, and modern food in Tallinn's city centre.

The changing of the seasons The Baltic Guide It is the light that signals the changing of the seasons in Estonia. In the deep winter the long darkness and human life is measured by the welcome candles outside cafés and restaurants. Slowly though, each day begins to bring more light and soon the days grow long and bright. The low horizons of this flat and forested land makes the early spring sunshine blinding against the snow- it is almost as though a searchlight has come on in order to banish the winter darkness. The return of the sun is the promise of new warmth and by March and April the days are visibly lengthening from one sunrise to the next. Gently the grip of the frost begins to let go. The workmen go onto the roofs to shovel the snow so that it does not turn to ice, though still the passer-by must be wary as the thaw drops icicles from the steep pitched gables of the Old Town.

The cafés begin to put out tables on the cobbles, not the elaborate terraces that come out when the leaves do, but still another sign of spring- albeit wrapped in warm woollen fleeces and blankets. From the cinnamon of the Hoogvein or Gloog that we drank in the deep winter darkness, we might now venture a coffee without a shot of warming 'naps.' Now we now pick our way along the winding lanes in the clear light of the morning of the year. Soon we will be drinking the cold beers or light wines of high summer. Then there is no night at all- only the long twilight with buildings or trees picked out in sharp shadows against the luminous sky. James Oates

Your Comments ■ We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: balticguide@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

APRIL 2012

Managing Director: Jane Konga Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp Design: Kristi Möls Photography: Andrei Chertkov

Distribution Network PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information, Viru Centre Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport RESTAURANTS Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones, O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seven Seas Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm,Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm

Contact Information Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee Marketing Manager: Kirli Lembinen tel +372 58 50 2472

Photo: Andrei Chertkov Style: Ženja Fokin Models (MJ models): Rufina, Veronica Clothes: Mohito, VeroModa, ABC King Thanks to: MASHA florists (www.masha.ee)


4 news

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 2

RUSSIAN RESTAURANT

Raekoja plats 15, Tallinn, Estonia Tel. +372 627 6245 restoran@troika.ee

www.troika.ee

The Baltic Guide is now on Facebook!

'Like' us and....

Photo: Kristi Reimets

April TOP 7 01 Easter celebrations at the Estonian Open Air Museum April 8

get the latest info on tourism in Estonia be the first to know about upcoming events let us know what you think, leave your comments and suggestions

Gain insight into ancient Estonian traditions at The Estonian Open Air Museum on April 8, Easter Sunday. The inn offers traditional food, an Easter service in the chapel, and visitors can learn about farm life of a bygone era. Admire the colourful eggs painted with onion skins and try some delicious pasha, a traditional Easter dessert.

02 TV-tower reopens April 5 The Tallinn TV-tower will reopen April 5. The 314-meter tower, built in 1980 is the tallest building in Estonia. A restaurant and visitor’s terrace is located at 170 meters. The tower has undergone a total makeover and offers a splendid view over its surroundings. During Soviet times it was one of the few places that offered contacts with the capitalist West. Often Helsinki, located about 80 km away could be spotted.

03 Pärnu Day April 8 Pärnu, Estonia’s summer capital comes back to life on April 8 with the Pärnu Day celebrations. It is an excellent way to get acquainted with the wide array of activities that are offered and to learn more about the city. Pärnu has been a spa destination for more than 170 years and offers excellent hotels and top quality cultural delights.

04 International Dog Show April 14-15 If the dog is your best friend, go to the Tallinn Winner 2012 Dog Show at the Saku Suurhall on April 14 and 15. It is organised by the Estonian Kennel Union and showcases everything from cute puppy class to junior, champion, and veteran classes. Sure to be lot’s of fun with lot’s of barking!

05 Michael Bublé at Saku Suurhall April 21 Canadian rock-pop star and triple Grammy Award winner Michael Bublé will hit Tallinn on April 21 as part of his world tour Crazy Love.

KATUSEKOHVIK (roof cafe) a place for friends!

Photo: Concert Organiser

Everything that you’d expect from a café...

The Haapsalu Horror & Fantasy Film Festival focuses on films from the darker side of cinema: from fantasy to horror, forgotten classics, filmmaker and country retrospectives, extreme films, and celebrated guests. The festival takes place on the night of the full moon. Haapsalu once a renowned summer retreat of the Russian Tsars, is now a picturesque town known for its healing mud and spa treatments.

Delicious menu Open from 10:00 till late.

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Cozy shisha room.

+372 6440145 www.katusekohvik.ee Viru 13/15 4th floor, Tallinn, Old Town. On top of De La Gardie store.

06 Haapsalu film festival April 27-29

07 Walpurgis night April 30. In all Nordic countries the arrival of spring is celebrated with Walpurgis night on April 30. It is a night of bonfires and merriment, enjoyed all over the country. No doubt, some will suffer serious hangovers on May 1, a day when the blonde May comes down the stairs of the Toompea castle. True or not, it is nevertheless a nice legend!


sights 5

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 2

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A walk in the park Free shot of liqueur when you order a schnitzel.

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Longer and warmer days bring Estonia out of hibernation. TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

menu features Spanish, Italian and French influenced dishes. For a day better spent inside, peruse through one of the many art galleries. The KUMU Art Museum is the main gallery of Estonia and features many interesting permanent and temporary exhibits. The Mikkel Museum houses the former private collection of Johannes Mikkel. Donated in 1994, this vast collection features European, Russian and Chinese paintings, prints, and porcelain. â–

Spring is in the air, and what better way to celebrate its arrival than a stroll through Kadriorg Park. This park was originally the grounds of a former tsar palace. The land initially spread over 100 hectares, but has since been made smaller by nearby private residences. Russian tsar Peter the Great built a holiday home for his family in the early 18th century. The Kadriorg Palace, now housing the Kadriorg Art Museum is a baroque building surrounded by perfectly How to get there trimmed gardens and fountains. In 1938, the Estonian presidential palace From the city centre, take either the number 1 or was built uphill from Kadriorg Palace. Its 3 tram to the Kadriorg stop. gardens connect to a series of criss-crossing paths that will eventually lead you to Location the sea. Kadriorg Restaurant – Weizenbergi, 18. Tallinn While it may be a little cold for a pic- Map Code B4 nic in the park, surrounding the park are KUMU Art Museum – Weizenbergi, 34/Valge, 1. many great restaurants. Past the presiden- Tallinn Map Code B4 tial palace, going up the hill, the KUMU Kadriorg Palace – Weizenbergi, 37. Tallinn art museum has a wonderful cafÊ with a Map Code B4 glorious view over the park. For something Presidential Palace – Weizenbergi, 39. Tallinn bit fancier, at the other end of the park, Map Code B4 just past the swan pond, is Kadriorg Res- Mikkel Museum – Weizenbergi, 28. Tallinn taurant. Spread out over three floors, its Map Code B4

Great heights TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

On April 5, the newly renovated Tallinn TV Tower will open its doors to the public. Climb, or take the high-speed lift to the top and experience the beautiful view over the Muuga forest, Tallinn’s Old Town in the distance, and the Baltic Sea. Apparently on a clear night you might even be able to see the distant lights of Helsinki. The tower first opened in 1980 for the sailing events of the Moscow Olympics. Its construction took five years. The TV tower quickly became a popular destination for family outings. In 1991, the tower was an important structure in the events leading up to the restoration of Estonia’s independence. Its defence was crucial when Soviet troops tried to seize it on August 20, 1991. The tower closed in 2007 failing to meet safety requirements.

Shooting with firearms

Enjoy a spectacular view over Tallinn from the newly renovated TV tower.

Paintball

When the TV tower opens again, it will house the Estonian Hall of Fame, a history exhibit documenting the history of the TV Tower, as well as a cafĂŠ and restaurant. This is a great outing with children, as there are many interactive exhibits, including a 3D film. A glass floor on the observation deck gives an interesting perspective of the forest below. â–

ATV SAFARIES

How to get there The Tallinn TV Tower is about 10km from the city centre and 4 km from the Pirita Marina. Take buses 34 A, 38, or 49 to the Teletorni stop. The City Tour Bus also stops here.

www.balticguide.ee death@death.ee eath@deat ath.ee ee e 1 +372 +37 504134 5041346

Location Tallinn TV Tower. Kloostrimetsa tee, 58A

Photo: I. Michelson

www.death.ee


day tripping

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 2

Tallinn

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Estonia: Quick Trips Not sure what to do while you’re in Estonia? Too much to see, too little time? The Baltic Guide is here to help. We’ve put together a few suggestions for you.

Day 1 in Tallinn

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Shopping: For some unique souvenirs, visit Oma Asi (Saiakang 4, Tallinn Old Town Map Code H2). Here you’ll find distinctive handicrafts including knitwear and jewellery. Nu Nordik (Vabaduse väljak 8, Tallinn Old Town Map Code J1) has modern Estonian designs, including clothing, jewellery and home décor items. A. Galerii (Hobusepea 2, Tallinn Old Town Map Code G2) features mostly modern Estonian jewellery.

Take a walk through Tartu’s Old Town. Visit the Town Hall Square to see good examples of neoclassical and late-baroque architecture. The fountain in the middle of the square in front of the Town Hall features a young couple kissing under an umbrella in the rain. About a block from the square is the main building for Tartu University (Ülikooli tnv 18, Tartu). A little further on are the Botanical Gardens (Lai 40, Tartu) that have an impressive collection of over 6500 plant species, many of which are housed in a giant greenhouse.

Church: Visit the Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral (Lossi plats, Tallinn Map Code B1). Built between 1894-1900, this Orthodox cathedral was part of the Russification of the Baltic provinces in the last quarter of the 19th century.

Museum: The Estonian History Museum in the Great Guild Hall (Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town Map Code G2) was recently renovated in 2011. This museum has wonderful exhibits to help you get acquainted with Estonia’s past. Free entry on the last Thursday of every month. Dinner: Get a taste of the Russian side of Estonia with a meal at Troika (Raekoja plats 15, Tallinn Old Town Map Code H1). Try a selection of Russian dumplings (pelmeenid), roasted eel, or bear meat stew. Then wash it all down with a shot of vodka. Photo: Andrei Chertkov

Day 2 in Tallinn:

Take a walk, or rather hop on the City Tour bus to see greater Tallinn. Get off at Kadriorg Park (Tallinn Map Code A4), and enjoy a stroll through the gardens. Or stay on the bus and visit the ruins of the Pirita Convent (Merivälja tee 18).

Tartu

From Tallinn, about 180km southeast, is the university town of Tartu. Daily connections by train or bus from Tallinn are convenient and inexpensive. (For more information, timetables and ticket prices visit: www.bussireisid.ee; www.edel.ee) Visitor information: www.visittartu.com See page 20 for Tartu city map.

Take a walk through Tallinn’s Old Town, and up the hill to Toompea. Toompea, located on the upper part of the Old Town has great views over the city and the Gulf of Finland. In the lower part of the centre, wander through narrow streets and get a true feeling for this medieval northern town.

Lunch: Enjoy a quick medieval lunch at the Town Hall (Reakoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town Map Code H1). Elk soup and traditional ale are served in earthenware bowls and cups. Stuffed pastries (pirukad) are baked throughout the day, and are worth the wait, should they run out. Too nice to sit inside? As the weather warms up, patios pop up all over the Town Hall Square, a great place to people-watch.

Tartu

1 Day in Tartu:

Photo: Toomas Tuul

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Rakvere

Day Trip from Tallinn: RAKVERE: is located close to Lahemaa National Park, a favourite place for hiking in the summer. About 100km east of Tallinn, Rakvere is the fifth largest city in Estonia. Rakvere Castle Ruins: This is the city’s main attraction. Located on the hill just outside of the city centre, the ruins of this medieval castle will entertain both adults and children. There are informative displays on the castle’s history, as well as weapons history. Try your hand at shooting a bow and arrow, or take a tour of the torture chamber. Town Hall Square: Built in 2004, this is probably Estonia’s most modern town hall square. Lutheran Church of the Holy Trinity: (Pikk 19, Rakvere) A medieval church built in the 17th century with a strangely tall and slim spire. Rakvere Town Citizen’s Home Museum: (Pikk 50) Get a feel for life in Estonia at the end of the 19th century. This museum showcases how people lived in Rakvere at the time. Dining: Try the Art Café (Lai 13), for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. It has a cosy, yet modern interior. Taste their selection of savoury pancakes.

Museum: Visit the Estonian National Museum (Kuperjanovi 9, Tartu). This museum displays temporary and permanent exhibits about Estonian history and culture. It is a wonderful place to become acquainted with Estonian customs and life in Estonia. Or, for something a little different, visit the Toy Museum (Lutsu 8, Tartu). Fun for both children and adults, this museum showcases everything from traditional Finno-Ugric toys, to nostalgic toys from the Soviet era. Lunch: Enjoy a quiet lunch at the Eduard Wilde Café (Vallikraavi 4, Tartu). This restaurant has a large patio open in the summertime. Their long menu has everything from curries to schnitzels, Caesar salad to crispy pork salad. Church: Founded in 1330, the Jaani Church (Jaani 5, Tartu) has been rebuilt many times. Despite being ruined by Soviet bombing in 1944, its restoration reflects the original structure. Enjoy 15 minutes of music every Tuesday and Friday at 12.15pm. Dinner: Built in a former gunpowder cellar, the Püssirohukelder (Lossi 28, Tartu) is a unique place to come for good hearty food. Popular among students, this pub often features live music. Evening entertainment: Enjoy everything from ballet, opera, musicals, and children’s plays at the Tartu Vanemuine Theatre (Vanemuise 6, Tartu). For more information and tickets visit www.vanemuine.ee)

Museum: Visit the KUMU Art Museum (Weizenbergi 34 / Valge 1 Tallinn Map Code B4) in Kadriorg. Admire Estonian art from the beginning of the 18th century to present. The gallery also has a café with a nice view over the park. Lunch: Get a taste for modern inspired Estonian and Russian food at Kohvik Moon (Võrgu 3, Tallinn Map Code A2). Try the Siberian dumplings in mushroom stock, or the herring. Bookings recommended. Church: Experience another great view over the city from the tower of the Oleviste Church (Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town Map Code F2). Once the tallest structure in Northern Europe, this church was dedicated to the 11th century Norwegian King Olaf II. During the Soviet period, it worked as a surveillance centre for the KGB. Dinner: Restaurant Ö (Mere pst 6E, Tallinn Map Code B2) serves modern Estonian food, using fine local ingredients and experimenting with traditional flavours. Try the six-course degustation menu to get a taste of what modern Estonian cuisine is all about. Evening Entertainment: Take in a performance at the Estonian National Opera and the Estonia Concert Hall (Estonia pst 4, Tallinn Map Code B2). Enjoy opera, ballet, or a concert in this theatre founded at the beginning of the 20th century. For tickets and information: www.opera.ee; www.concert.ee

Photo: Toomas Tuul The 'kissing fountain' is located in Tartu's Town Hall Square.


T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 2

relax

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Jazz by the sea Tallinn's annual jazz festival will be held at the port this year. TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS JAZZKAAR

Near the A-terminal at the Port of Tallinn, a marine pavilion will accommodate thousands of music lovers. This year the list of performers is long and incredibly varied. Norwegian Ambassador Jan Garbarek will perform with his jazz band, as well as the Indian percussion wizard, Trilok Gurtu on April 28 at the Nokia Concert Hall. English acid-jazz legends The Brand New Heavies will make you

dance on April 27 at the Marine Pavilion. The third headliner is a young American singer, Lizz Wright who will appear on April 27 at the Nokia Concert Hall. Alto saxophonist Rudresh Mahanthappa and bassist Christian McBride from the United States will also take part.  Estonian music can be enjoyed at the festival as well. At the Estonian Vocal Gala Concert ten wonderful jazz singers will take the stage. Tõnis Mägi will perform alongside a large orchestra;

and other well-known Estonian musicians include Oleg Pisarenko, Jaak Sooäär, Raivo Tafenau Mill and Villu Veski. The young Finnish soul singer Jo Stance will also perform. In addition to Tallinn, concerts will take place in 16 different locations across Estonia. Tickets can be purchased from Piletilevi outlets. ■

Location Jazzkaar, April 20 - 29 www.jazzkaar.ee

Music couple Amadou & Mariam from Mali will perform on April 20.

To gel or not to gel... Gel polished nails are the latest salon trend to hit Estonia.

Nail Lounge offers an OPI-only experience.

TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

The Baltic Guide wanted to find out what all of the fuss was about. Basically, gel polished nails are a type of polish that hardens under UV light. This means that when you go for your manicure or pedicure, as soon as you are finished your nails are dry. And, best of all, the polish stays on for a minimum of two weeks. These nails are dishwashing-proof, sauna-proof, sand-proof, and swimming-proof. We visited two of Tallinn’s great nail salons to try it out for ourselves. ■ Nail Lounge is the first salon

in Estonia to offer an OPI-only

experience. This means that all the products that are used during your manicure or pedicure are OPI brand. Nail Lounge manager Katrin Sootna is proud to offer these products to her clients and says, “you can really feel and see the better quality. The hand creams contain natural ingredients, and the scents are soothing but not overpowering.” When a client walks into the cosy and warming Nail Lounge they are made to feel special. Each manicure or pedicure is personalised to suit the client. The gel polish manicure (24.50) lasts at least two weeks, and clients usually come back with the colour having simply grown out. The Nail Lounge also offers classic manicures

(17) and pedicures (29). These include a massage. The classic pedicure is comparable to a regular spa pedicure. Feet are left feeling clean, relaxed, and soft. Appointments can be booked online as well as via telephone. ■ The Nail Spa works like a well-

oiled machine. As soon as the client walks in, they are greeted

and offered a beverage. The salon is filled with the chatter of regulars, and the friendly and professional service is just part of the reason clients keep coming back. The Nail Spa uses OPI-brand products for their manicures and pedicures. The gel manicure (23) lasts about an hour and half. Your hands must be dry for this manicure so there is no soa-

king involved. First, nails are filed and shaped. Then the nails are brushed with a coat of special clear polish that helps the colour adhere to the nails. Throughout the manicure, it certainly seems like there are many coats of polish being put on, but the gel polish will not damage your nails. After each coat your nails are put under the UV light to dry and at the end of the manicure, the manicurist gave a hand massage and my nails were completely dry. Appointments can be booked on-line as well as via telephone. ■

Location

The gel polish manicure lasts about an hour and a half.

Nail Lounge Roseni 9 / Mere pst 6A Tallinn Map Code A2 Nail Spa Narva mnt 9 Tallinn Map Code B3


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shopping

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 2

Estonian gastronomy You’ve tried Estonian food at some Tallinn’s great restaurants; why not take a few things home with you. These items make the perfect gift or keep them for yourself as a tasty souvenir. The Baltic Guide has some suggestions for you that feature the true flavours of Estonia. TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

Where to buy: Visit Hää Eesti Asi for these products and much more. Viru 23, Tallinn Old Town Map Code H3.

■ Fir Shoot Syrup – Made from fir shoots, this sweet pine-tasting syrup adds a little bit extra to meat marinades. Add a spoonful to hot tea to help fight that winter cold. Fir shoots are rich in vitamins. 3.20€ 180mL.

■ Olde Hansa Onion Jam – Packed in an ornamental clay pot, this jam goes well with sausages and pork. 15.50€, 600g.

■ Pädaste Gourmet Muhu Hazelnut Honey – Estonian honey infused with hazelnuts and cranberries, straight from Muhu Island. 7€, 250g

■ Võhu Rhubarb Wine – This semisweet fruit wine is an excellent aperitif. Serve chilled on a hot summer day. 12% alc/vol. 9€ 500mL.

■ Artisan Estonian Chocolate – White chocolate with hemp, dark chocolate with green tea and mint, white chocolate with sea buckthorn, dark chocolate with lemon and rose… need we say more? 6.30€ 95g.

■ Sea Buckthorn Liqueur – This little orange berry is a prominent ingredient in modern Estonian cooking. Its liqueur is not too sweet, as the berry itself is quite sour. Enjoy as an after dinner drink. 17% alc/vol. 8.90€ 500mL.

Visit Sadama Market

■ Dried Fruit Crisps – These chips are made with organic freeze-dried fruit. They make an excellent addition to muesli, or eat them on their own as a snack. Assorted flavours including: cowberry, raspberry, strawberry, blueberry and mixed berry. 4.50€ 80g.

The Sadama Market located in Tallinn’s Port district is open again in time for spring! Sample great Estonian foods by local producers and farmers. Open daily from 8 – 19.

Location Sadama Turg Sadama 25-4 Tallinn Map Code A3.


Estonian handicraft

SEE THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN EXCELLENT AND ORDINARY LENSES. Come for an eye exam today. Register on-line www.optiline.ee or in-store.

in SadaMarket

PEREOPTIKA Aia 2, Tallinn, WW Passaaz, tel +372 56820045 STOCKOPTIKA Tartu mnt 18, Tallinn (Opposite Stockmann) tel+372 56820044 +/-Optika Tartu mnt 11D, Tallinn (In the Sampo courtyard) tel+372 56820043

A, B terminals Entrance

ASAD T E K MAR Information desk

BOX

1-28

Entrance

DRESS CLOTHES FOR ALL AGES AND SIZES ACROSS FROM STOCKMANN IN TALLINN SadaMarket • Sadama 6/8 Tallinn • box 1-28 • Open every day 8-19

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Restaurant Le Chateau brings French cuisine to Tallinn!

Enjoy Le Chateau's cozy and charming atmosphere while you taste the 17th Century-inspired French menu.Come experience the royal dining traditions of the Sun King Louis XIV!

Bring this ad with you and enjoy a complimentary

GLASS OF LIQUEUR!

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Restaurant/Pub FĂśrsta stället i Tallinn när man kommer sjĂśvägen och sista när man beger sig till havs! The ďŹ rst place to come when You arrive and the last place to visit before leaving!

Massor av härliga smakupplevelser!

Levande musik varje dag/ Live music every day 12-15

Taste one of our delicious dishes! Ă–ppet/Open: varje dag/every day 8-19. KĂśket Ăśppet frĂĽn kl/ The kitchen open from 8.

Sadamarket Shopping Centrum 1a vün/1st oor, 100m frün A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals. Sadama 6/8, Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, info@seitsemerd.ee, www.seitsemerd.ee


10

museum

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 2

Baby animals at the zoo When spring arrives the nurseries at Tallinn Zoo fill up with adorable new-born animals. The Tallinn Zoo is a great place to come with children.

Many visitors come to Tallinn just to see these. The zoo also has an outstanding number of eagles and vultures, and a remarkable collection of owl and crane species. Mati Kaal, Managing Director of the Tallinn Zoo says, that more space is needed but finances are limited. On the other hand, the high reproduction rates confirm that the animals are doing well. One of the highlights this year is a rhinoceros baby. The zoo takes an active part in international cooperation with other zoos around the world, especially in relation to the reproduction and preservation of endangered species.

TEXT: TOOMAS KÄBIN, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

It starts in April when hoofed animals like goats and camels give birth. This year, two of the most exotic cat species, the Amur Leopard and the Snow Leopard are expected to have children. The crepuscular leopards can usually be seen romping around their enclosures in the early morning and late afternoon, and can be followed live on the web. In fact, many of the animals at the Tallinn Zoo can be watched via webcam. By international standards Tallinn Zoo has limited resources, however this zoo can pride itself by having the best collection of wild goats and sheep in the world.

A joey keeping warm in his mother's pouch.

The children’s zoo is open during the summer months from the beginning of June. The kids just love the small animals! A new environmental centre for children will be opened later this summer with an aim to teach children how to appreciate nature and take care of animals. Since the Tallinn Zoo area is large, carts can be rented for children, as well as wheel chairs for a nominal fee. ■

Location Tallinn Zoo, Paldiski mnt 145, Tallinn, close to the Rocca-al-Mare Shopping Centre Transportation; trolley-bus 6 and 7, and bus 22

Adamson-Eric Arts Museum Metal jewellery on display in the museum.

TEXT: TOOMAS KÄBIN, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

Adamson-Eric was a dynamic, yet controversial artist and intellectual. He was a true cosmopolitan, influenced by contemporary European art and the ideology of his time. In the 1920s he studied applied arts in Berlin, and drawing and painting in Paris. In spite of his left-wing political views and sympathy for the Soviet power during and after WWII, he

was later purged during Stalinist cleansing and had to take up a position as factory worker. During the early period of his professional life as a painter, Adamson-Eric focused on nature mort. In addition to painting, he laid a solid foundation for applied art in Estonia and has left his masterpieces behind in the form of metal jewellery, ceramics, porcelain painting, leather engraving,

One of the few Estonian artists who has been awarded a museum of his own is Adamson Eric (1902-1968). This year marks his 110th birthday. metal forms, decorative tiles, textile, and furniture. His works are very characteristic and therefor easy to recognise. The art deco style is one of his main influences. His masterpieces are are classical, elegant, and distinguished. ■

Location Adamson-Eric Museum, Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town Map Code I1

The Adamson-Eric museum is tucked away in the Old Town.


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ESTONIAN CUISINE IN TALLINN'S OLD TOWN SQUARE

Liisu Juures (At Liisu's) Traditional Estonian food in a homey setting THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD    ‡ ZZZVWHDNHH 7DOOLQQ9LUX

Open everyday 10-24, Raekoja plats 13, Old Town, Tallinn tel +372 644 1983

Welcome!

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20% DISCOUNT IN MARCH


12

restaurants

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 2

■ In memory of Whitney Houston

■ National Opera Boy’s Choir turns 40 April 21

Estonia's top artists will perform Whitney Houston’s top songs in her honour. Whitney Houston, who died in February, has many fans in Estonia. In honour of the pop diva, the concert series, We Will Always Love You, will tour three Estonian cities. At the concerts you can hear classic songs like I Will Always Love You, I Wanna Dance With Somebody and Greatest Love Of All. Taking the stage will be some of the country's best singers, from musical performer Birgit Õigemeele to Eurovision winner Dave Benton. Ultima Thule will play with Raul Vaigla and the WAF choir will also perform.

Everybody agrees that if there is one thing that Estonians excel in, it is music. The Estonian National Opera Boy’s Choir will celebrate its 40th anniversary with a festive gala at the Estonia Concert Hall with music by Schütz, Bruckner, Mendelssohn and Pärt. The boys are accompanied by Hortus Musicus, one of the country’s best-known choirs, specialising in early music.

Tickets start at 15€, and can be purchased from Piletilevi. Location 14.4. Nokia Concert Hall, Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn. Map Code B2. 18.4. Vanemuine Concert Hall, Vanemuine 6, Tartu. 04.05. Pärnu Concert Hall, Aida 4, Pärnu.

Singing Whitney Houston songs requires great skill and experience. Birgit Õigemeele (left) has that in spades.

PHOTO: HARRI ROSPU

Estonian food, as it once was Dine in the atmosphere of the 17th century at Glad Estlander.

A New Twist

TEXT: JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

Neh brings Nordic island cuisine to Tallinn.

Glad Estlander, Vanaturu kael 3, Tallinn Old Town Map Code H2.

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is fashionable today and works well. ■

Every year the kitchen staff from Pädaste Manor on Muhu Island moves to the city. Neh restaurant in Tallinn is a little bit off the beaten track, in the port district of Tallinn. As soon as you step through the door, this cosy restaurant welcomes you out of the cold with open arms. Neh serves both lunch and dinner, with a “lighter” price for lunch-sized portions. For something a little different try the salted ostrich with ramson and crosne (12/13). Ramson, a type of wild garlic and crosne, also known as a chinese artichoke pair well with the strong flavoured ostrich. Or if you are not feeling very adventu-

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potatoes did have some herbs sprinkled over them. The dishes certainly had a simple flavour that remained true to the tastes of the local ingredients used. The historical theme of the restaurant

ESTONIAN RESTAURANTS

Raekoja plats 17

rous, you can’t go wrong with the braised beef cheek, served with tuhli sonk, sauerkraut and chokeberry sauce (17/19). This tender piece of meat is braised in artisan beer and the tuhli sonk or crushed potatoes helps soak up the bittersweet chokeberry sauce. If you just can’t decide, let the Neh chefs choose the best of the day for you. At lunch you can have a two-course set menu (15) and a three-course set menu at dinner (28). Looking for somewhere to eat after the theatre? Try the twocourse night menu (21) served between 22.00 – 23.00, Thursday to Saturday. ■

TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

Suur-Karja

Glad Estlander has only been in business a few months, but you will not see any new furniture in this restaurant. This is a good thing because the restaurant is meant to have a baroque or 17th century feel. The restaurant has two floors; the first floor is divided into small rooms. Glad Estlander has managed to create a festive yet cosy atmosphere. The menu is fairly small and does not offer any gastronomic surprises. The most expensive dish is a meat stew (25), but I opted for the salmon instead. The salmon was a lighter choice for lunch (12.50). My dining companion ordered the fish soup (6), which was served with housemade bread warm from the oven.  The food presentation suited the atmosphere. It was simple. Coarse stoneware, roughly chopped pieces of vegetables and generous portion sizes were just right.  The food was tasty but not overly seasoned, although the


restaurant

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 2

13 ■ Wolf Biermann in concert May 7

■ Homage to Barbara Streisand April 24 – 26

PHOTO: SONY MUSIC

The world famous German singing poet and Grand Old intellectual Wolf Biermann is the main star at this year’s Prima Vista literature festival in Tartu. Biermann (75) will perform on May 7. Biermann, an honorary citizen of Berlin, was expelled from East Germany in 1976 where he worked with the Berliner Ensemble and was connected with Berthold Brecht and Hanns Eisler.

Barbara Streisand turns 70 and she will be honoured by the Estonian Youth Symphony Orchestra in Tartu at the Vanemuise Concert Hall April 24, in Tallinn at the Estonia Concert Hall April 25, and in Pärnu at the Concert Hall April 26.

At grandmother's House Food, just like your Estonian granny used to make. TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: ANDREI CHERTKOV

Located in the heart of Tallinn’s Old Town, this restaurant lives up to its name: At grandmother’s or Vanaema juures. You will not miss the giant skillet hanging over the entranceway, and the old iron serving as a door handle. Vanaema juures offers traditional Estonian fare, incorporating local ingredients. Dishes are served

up just like granny used to serve them –generously portioned. To start, try the salt cured salmon with lemon cream (5). This dish comes served with bread, and is delicately seasoned with fresh lemon juice. It is an excellent light dish to try, especially if you don’t want to miss out on a main. Alternately, for a true Estonian classic, you certainly can’t pass up the Baltic herring with mustard, apple,

The aromas from the kitchen bring you back to your childhood.

and onion salad (4). The sweetness of the apple salad balances out the full flavour of the herring. As a second course, try the roast pork with sauerkraut (12.50) or the roast salmon with cream sauce (13). While these dishes will not ‘wow’ you palate, the smell of the dill garnish over the boiled potatoes accompanying the salmon or the aroma of the sauerkraut, brings you back to your Estonian grandmother’s kitchen, and the comfort of knowing that you certainly won’t be going home hungry. If you’re a vegetarian, don’t worry, granny has even prepared

Service is friendly.

mushroom and potato dumplings, served with sour cream and an assortment of salads and steamed vegetables (7). Still hungry? Try the pancakes, served with jam, honey or sour cream (4) or the daily cake

Dishes are served just like granny used to serve them, generously portioned.

(3.50). On our visit, it was a traditional fresh cheese cake, and it was certainly worth saving room for. ■

Location Vanaema juures. Rataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn Old Town Map Code H1

The atmosphere is warm and inviting.

Estonian restaurants in Tallinn: ■ Kaerajaan, Raekoja plats 17 Kaerajaan, the name of a wellknown folkdance serves contemporary Estonian cuisine.

Raekoja plats 13 Located in the Town Hall Square, this Estonian restaurant serves herring, perch and pikeperch.

■ Kolu Kõrts,

■ MEKK, Suur-Karja 17/18. As the name suggests, this restaurant features modern Estonian cuisine.

Open Air Museum, Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12 Kolu Kõrts, located in the Open-Air Museum, is a traditional inn.

■ Kuldse Notsu Kõrts, Dunkri 8 The name in English means ‘golden pork tavern’ and their menu features traditional Estonian dishes. Kuldse Notsu Kõrts

■ Liisu juures,

■ Neh, Lootsi 4 The staff from the Pädaste Manor on Muhu Island move to the city for the winter and servesthe best of Nordic Island cuisine. ■ Talukõrts, Viru 18 Located on the third floor, this restaurant serves everything from crispy pig's ears, to grandma's traditional apple pie. ■ Vanaema juures, Rataskaevu 10 A cosy basement restaurant, with the atmosphere of being at grandma’s house for Sunday lunch.


14

person What's on...

Tallinn from a different angle The observation platform at the Oleviste Church will reopen for the season on April 1. See Tallinn’s Old Town from 60 meters above ground. During Soviet times the tower was used by the KGB and filled with surveillance antennas.

Late nights at the museum Didn’t have time to get to the museum before it closed? The KUMU and Kadrioru Art museums are both open until 8pm on Wednesdays. You can visit both because they are almost side by side. At KUMU you can discover contemporary art. At the Kadrioru Castle, historical paintings are on display.

Aha, take an ice cream to the forest Enjoy the educational and familyoriented exhibition "Aha, take an ice-cream to the forest" at the Tallinn branch of the Science Centre AHHAA. It is conveniently located in the Vabaduse Square, in the city centre. You will have the opportunity to wander around in a model forest built by the Estonian State Forest Management Centre (RMK) and discover the secrets of old ice cream machines.

Congestion in the air Air space in Matsalu, some 100 km west of Tallinn is congested in April. Millions of birds land, refuel, and then take off again. Matsalu is one of the largest bird sanctuaries in Europe.

Ships on the move The Estonian Maritime Museum is on the move. Doors of the new premises at the fascinating Seaplane hangar open in May. You can enjoy virtual underwater tours and see a real submarine.

The bicycle season starts! Rent a bike and discover Tallinn on your own. There are plenty of biking trails in and around town. Don’t forget your helmet!

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 2

Laughing

out loud


T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 2

person

15 We did two shows in January at Club Privé because there was so much demand. They were like night and day. At the first show, the audience was made up of mostly newcomers, people that had never been to a comedy show before. They didn’t seem to be laughing much, but you could see that they were enjoying themselves. After the show, people came up to us and said that they had a great time. The second night was for the regulars, the people that had already seen a couple of shows. It was just wild. Everyone was getting into it. Once people have been to one or two shows, they get it and it just goes over the top.

Stewart Johnson (left) and Louis Zezeran (right) on stage at Club Privé

The Baltic Guide sat down with Louis Zezeran, Australian comedian and co-founder of Comedy Estonia, to talk about comedy in Estonia, but more importantly, what is an Australian doing in Tallinn. TEXT: KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS: MIHKEL UBA, JOHN COWBOY / CLUB PRIVE

How did Comedy Estonia start? I was living in Stockholm and doing comedy there, but after my relationship ended, I decided it was time to move on. A friend of mine, living in Finland at time convinced me to move over there. I must have been in some kind of state, because I thought to myself, ‘yeah, Finland is probably a good idea.’ Possibly the only time anyone has said Finland is a good idea. Then at the same time, Eric Seufert, a Texan living in Estonia, contacted me. He was interested in doing a show. So we got some friends together, Stewart Johnson, an American living in Estonia for

At first we thought only 40 people would show up... 150 people came!

14 years now, and an Estonian, Andrei Tuch. I invited another friend from Sweden, Joe Eagan. At first we thought only 40 people would show up, if we were lucky. 150 people came! Who makes up Comedy Estonia? Eric Seufert was part of our crew, but he’s living in Finland now.

He’s an example of a very good Estonian, got a better job in Finland. So he performs with us in there. At the moment, it’s myself and Stewart Johnson, as well as three Estonians: Sander Õigus, and two girls, Keiu Kriit, and Janika Maidle. I think it’s great that the girls are there to say, comedy is not just for loud foreign dudes. It’s for Estonians and it’s for girls too. Janika has a very shy, introverted style, so it shows that you don’t always have to be big and loud, you can be any way you want. The first show we did was half stand-up, half improv comedy. Eric and I had been coordinating over email and got down to the poster-design, which is really quite late in the game, and Eric says, ‘should we say what language it’s in?’ and I said, ‘what do you mean?’ ‘Well the improvers work in Estonian.’ So we had this English language first half and Estonian language, second half. As it turns out, crossing languages is not a problem in shows. How do you like living in Estonia? I think it’s great here. I first came as a backpacker in 2006. I connected with it because it’s a small country and Australians value the underdog. I also connected with the space. Australia has a lot of space, even though the wilderness is quite different, I still like it. How does Comedy Estonia work? We run about five shows a month in Estonia, and about five to six shows in Finland. The night at Drink Bar is where mostly local

Have there been any problems along the way? No huge disasters. At first we had to cancel a few shows, like in Pärnu. For whatever reason we’ve never been able to get a show up and going in Pärnu. This was probably because of poor marketing. But we’ve learned our lesson. Finding the right partners is also important. As a foreigner you can be very segregated if you don’t integrate yourself. You can just

comedians come. There are about three to four of us, and often we will bring in one or two international people as well. Every month we prepare all new jokes, so you can come back every month and see all new material. We are always bringing in new headliners as well. The show at Club Privé is a bit more fancy. There we bring in two international comedians and then Stewart and I are the hosts. At Club Privé people get a seat, and there’s a jazz band between acts. Where as at Drink Bar, everyone is packed in, mostly standing, but that’s great. It’s a different atmosphere. Then we also have an openmic night. It’s a smaller event where people can come and test their jokes. New comedians can try it for the first time. We will be starting that night at a new venue, Tops in Kalamaja. That’s where we would normally go to test new material. Anyone can come and try it out. There are three levels of Comedy Estonia. We see it like a movement and we want to grow it together. If people do well at the open-mic night, there is nothing stopping them from getting to the next level. It’s very important that it’s very inclusive.

exist in an ex-pat community. It’s been about finding the right Estonian partners to work with. Also, coming to the understanding that Estonia is a very small country but that’s also one of the reasons why I like it. President Ilves said in his independence day speech that, everyone in this country matters, every person makes a difference. I love that idea. We really began to understand this when we would make jokes about politicians and they heard it. This fundamentally changed me. If we make fun of Ilves, we know that he hears this. And that’s wild, that we have such a direct connection.

What is the comedy scene like in Estonia? It’s pretty rockin’. I think we stumbled across this accidentally. At Drink Bar, it’s very familiar. Estonians are very shy, but after a few drinks, people really start to open up. Drink Bar is a familiar place that a lot of people would come to anyway, so in many ways it just feels like a big party.

What have been some of the best moments? We’ve done a few stunts recently, like the tram gig. This was standup comedy on a tram. We hooked it up with the tram people. We sent a press release out and three different media came. It was great. We had told everyone to meet at a certain stop at a certain time, and about 25 people came along with

the TV channels. We got on the tram just started to do stand-up with a portable microphone. Then in Tartu, there were the ACTA protests in February. Everyone was wearing a tinfoil hat, so we thought, let’s just be silly and we covered ourselves in tinfoil. We made it onto the news for that too. So what other stunts do you have planned, or is that a secret? It’s a secret, meaning I haven’t thought it up yet. Where do you see Comedy Estonia a year from now? I’d like to put on some larger international shows a few times a year. I’d also like to see us have more shows with more Estonian comedians. I want to continue building a more local comedy scene, so we have more of these open mic nights, and people trying and getting better. Just to keep doing what we’re doing and doing it well. In the long term, we’d like to expand by doing more shows in Finland, and hopefully into Latvia as well. In the autumn we’re going to do a show in Riga. More shows, more good times. We want every show to be like a good party. ■

Enjoying a laugh at Club Privé

Upcoming Shows April 3: Tartu Comedy Night Vilde Lokaal & Café, Vallikraavi 4, Tartu April 4: Drink Bar Comedy Night Drink Bar & Grill, Väike Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town Map Code, I2 April 14: TOPS Open Mic TOPS Soo 15, Tallinn Map Code A1. May: Tour of Estonia (These shows will be in Estonian). Pärnu, Rakvere, Viljandi, Kuresaare May 8: Arensburg Boutique Hotel & Spa, Kuresaare May 9: Endla Theatre Cafe, Pärnu May 10: Rakvere Theatre Café, Rakvere May 12: Pärimusmuusika ait, Viljandi

For more information and upcoming shows visit: www.comedyestonia.com www.comedyfinland.com


16

Tartu

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ A P R I L 2 0 1 2

April News Government vows to fund National Museum The Estonian National Museum’s planned new building will be funded by the Cultural Endowment funds. However, without any EU funding, the Ministry of Finance must look for other ways to balance the government sector budget. It is expected that it would take the Cultural Endowment Fund 10-12 years to finance the entire 87.5 million euro project.

Tallinn cruise sector to help pay for tourist amenities The mayor of Tallinn has approached the Port of Tallinn with a proposition to let the city use half of the port revenue for improvement costs of public facilities. In 2011, 1.17 million day-trippers arrived in Tallinn, 90% of whom arrived by sea.

Student and Spring Days in Tartu U of Tartu makes top 1% in molecular biology and genetics The Reuters Web of Science list ranked the University of Tartu in the top 1% of the world’s most influential research institutions in molecular biology and genetics. The list is compiled by considering the number of published academic articles and references. The University of Tartu has previously made the top 1% in chemistry, plant and animal sciences, environmental studies, biology and biochemistry.

Estonian population decreases The population of Estonia decreased by 3000 people last year according to Statistics Estonia. Decreased births and increased emigration contributed to the drop. There were 14,679 births, 15,224 deaths, 3709 immigrations, and 6214 emigrations. Close to one third of population of Estonia resides in Tallinn.

The annual Tartu Student and Spring Days is real proof that spring has arrived. out of anything that floats or doesn’t float. One’s imagination is the only limit when it comes to the construction of the vessels. If you prefer to stay dry, warm, and on land, enjoy the student market, song festival or one of the many pub rallies. The Student Days finish up with a huge party on April 30, the night of Walpurgis, which marks the definite arrival of spring! When: April 25 – May 1, www. studentdays.ee

TEXT: TOOMAS KÄBIN, PHOTOS: TOOMAS TUUL

The downtown area is taken over by students who put on entertaining cultural and sporting events, blended with a bit of humour and intellectual sharpness. One of the most significant and crazy events is the boat race, which takes place along the Ema River that runs through town. Spirits are high in spite of the strong currents and ice-cold waters. To be honest, the fun is in the eye-catching vessels, made

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According to the results of a state-wide poll, Russian and Estonian integration has improved since 2008. Almost one third of the Russian-speaking population in Estonia are people who are active in the community and identify themselves within Estonian society. Estonian people also showed that the opinions of the Russian-speaking population should be taken into consideration more. The poll was commissioned by the Ministry of Culture.

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Over the next year, a garbage heap measuring about 4.2 hectares will be dismantled and sorted. Reusable materials will be reclaimed. The Kuresaare dump, closed in 2009, is considered an environmental hazard and contains waste generated over 40 years. The area is about 18 meters in height. This project will cost 2 million euro and in 18 months it is expected that the site should be two thirds in size and vegetated.

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Quick Facts

■ A night at the theatre Few cities the size of Tartu can boast to having such high-class theatre. In April the Vanemuine theatre, the oldest in Estonia, puts on great performances like the musicals Mary Poppins and The Sound of Music; the opera Manon, the Ballet Onegin and the operetta The Merry Widow. ■ Academic Tartu at a glance Tartu is the second largest town in Estonia with a population of about 10,000. It is the cradle of the Estonian Song Festival, Estonian theatre, and the Estonian state. Tartu is the Estonian university centre par excellence with academic traditions dating back to 1632. It is often referred to as the city of good thoughts; and no doubt, new ideas are sprawling and bubbling in the auditoriums, laboratories, and in the minds of students. Because of its dynamic development and innovative atmosphere, Tartu University is attracting an ever growing number of foreign students and researchers. According to a recent study, Estonia ranked first in an international student survey for satisfaction of stay in the hosting country institution.

Tartu Jaani Church

How to get there?

Botanical Gardens

Tartu is located 180 km southeast of Tallinn. By air via Tallinn (Estonian Air) and Helsinki (Finnair/FlyBe). By bus from Tallinn: http://bussireisid.ee/ By train from Tallinn: http://edel.ee/. www.tartu.ee .

Estonial Natural Museum Toy Museum Eduard Wilde Café Püssirohu kelder


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Opera and Theatre: Estonian National Opera (Rahvusooper Estonia)

Russian Theatre (Vene teater)

Estonia pst 4, Tallinn, tel +372 683 12 14, www.opera.ee. Location: Old Town Map Code J3

Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn, tel +372 611 49 62, www.veneteater.ee Location: Old Town Map Code J1

Tallinn City Theatre (Tallinna Linnateater) Lai 21, Tallinn, tel +372 665 08 00, www.linnateater.ee. Location: Old Town Map Code G1

Estonian Drama Theatre (Eesti Draamateater)

Estonian Doll and Youth Theatre (Eesti Nuku- ja Noorsooteater) Lai 1, Tallinn, tel +372 667 95 50, www.nukuteater.ee Location: Old Town Map Code G1

Pärnu mnt 5, Tallinn, tel +372 680 55 55, www.draamateater.ee. Location: Old Town Map Code I/J2

Exhibitions & Museums:

Concerts: Saku Suurhall

Location: Old Town Map Code J2

Paldiski mnt 104B, Tallinn, www.sakusuurhall.ee

Pärnu Concert Hall (Pärnu Kontserdimaja)

21.4 2.5

Michael Bublé Irina Allegrova

Estonia Concert Hall (Estonia Kontserdisaal) Estonia pst 4, Tallinn, www.concert.ee Location: Old Town Map Code I/J3 8.4 11.4

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Easter Concert Birmingham School Symphony Orchestra (UK) Violino bis! Tallinn Chamber Orchestra Lõunamuusika. Estonian National Symphony Orchestra ERSO. PASSACAGLIA Pille Lille Anniversary Gala Elite Concert VIII. Marko Martin Golden Classics: RO Estonia Orchestra Forest Songs Treasury of Estonian Music III Uus Tallinna Trio Happy Birthday Barbara Streisand! Family Concert. Hortus, Kuuskemaa, keskaeg Words and Music. France ERSO Final Concert of the Season

Swedish St Michael’s Church (Rootsi-Mihkli kogudus)

Opera Singer Pille Lill Charity Concerts(PLMF) www.plmf.ee:

Aida 4, Pärnu, www.concert.ee Location: Pärnu and Western Estonia Map Code A1

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Rock Cafe

12.4 14.4 15.4 26.4 27.4

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Tartu Academic Men’s Choir 100 Mihhail Oginski nim. Maladzetšna Higher School of Music Symphony Orchestra Ballet Evening "Othello", "Aeg" Man from La Mancha National Opera Estonia Boy’s Choir 40 Happy Birthday Barbara Streisand! NordicSounds ja EIVOR. Veski/ Kalluste 5tet Final Concert of the Season

Jõhvi Concert Hall (Jõhvi Kontserdimaja) 18

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Vanemuise Concert Hall (Vanemuise Kontserdimaja)

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Vanemuise 6, Tartu, www.concert.ee Location: Tartu and southern Estonia Map Code B2

7.4 8.4 22.4 29.4

Concert Finnish Musical : hardushetk Öömissa Church Service Swedish Church Service German Church Service Swedish Church Service

Tallinn City Hall (Tallinna Raekoda) Raekoja plats, Tallinn, veeb.tallinn.ee/raekoda Location: Old Town Map Code H1/2

Jaani Church (Jaani kirik)

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Harpsichord Festival (More Info: www.klavessiin.kul.ee) Iren Lill, Mustpeade Maja, Tallinn Baltic Baroque: Andrei Reshetin, Mustpeade Maja, Tallinn Silvia Marquez Chulilla (harpsichord), Gorka Hermosa (accordion), Väravatorn, Tallinn Children’s Concert, Lastekirjanduse Keskus, Tallinn Beatrice Martin (Harpsichord), Raekoda, Tallinn International Jazz Festival Jazzkaar (More info: www.jazzkaar.ee) Estonian Folk Music Festival "Moisekatski Elohelü" Põlvamaa, Mooste Manor (More info: www.folkfest.polvamaa.ee)

Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, www.eam.ee, tel +372 622 86 00. Location: Map Code A5 Opening Hours: We-Su 10–17

Tartu mnt. 80D, Tallinn, www.rockcafe.ee 5.4 6.4 7.4 8.4 13.4 20.4

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Example (England) Kukerpillid Kosmikud Mustasch (Sweden) Kolumbus Kris 25 Metsatöll/Finntroll (Finland)/ Tracedawn (Finland) Contus Firmus/X-Panda Poets of the Fall (Finland)

Organ Concerto U.P.Tanilood Pop Diva Whitney Houston Memorial Concert Tartu Academic Men’s Choir 100 Happy Birthday Barbara Streisand! Treasury of Estonian Music III Uus Tallinna Trio

5.4 6.4 7.4 12.4 13.4

Beer Pong (Beer Game) Tricky Jay Laur Joamets and Mait Seger Beer Pong Alternative Rock Night with 2 Bands (Pilet 3€) 14.4 "OORT" CD release party (Pilet 5€) 19.4 Beer Pong 20.4 October Wine 21.4 Blues Duo Nevil Blumberg and Heiki Tark 26.4 Beer Pong 27.4 Tribute to Hurriganes "Crazy Dayz" 28.4 Janno Reim and Erki Reim "Nevesis" Every Tuesday night: Salsa Night.

Free Concerts: Restaurant C'est La Vie (Suur-Karja 5, Tallinn) Location: Old Town Map Code I2

Classical Wednesdays Café Wabadus (Vabaduse väljak 10, Tallinn) Location: Old Town Map Code J1

Tartu Jaani Church (Tartu Jaani kirik) Jaani 5, Tartu, www.jaanikirik.ee Location: Tartu and southern Estonia Map Code B1

Vabaduse väljak 1, Tallinn, www.tallinnajaani.ee

Festivals:

Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 602 60 00. Location: Map Code B5 Opening Hours: October–April Wed 11am– 8pm, Thu–Sun 11am–6pm. May–September  Tue 11am–6pm, Wed 11am–8pm, Thu–Sun 11am–6pm

Pärnu mnt. 19, Tallinn, www.guitarhunt.ee

Birmingham School Symphony Orchestra (UK) Elite Concert VIII. Marko Martin Surprise Guest Russian Romance Võssotskini Man from La Mancha Man from La Mancha Little Witch Elite Concert Mati Mikalai and Kai Ratassepp

Rüütli 9, Tallinn, www.stmikael.ee Location: Old Town Map Code I1 13 17 23 15 12 15 12

Pille Lille Anniversary Gala, Estonia Concert Hall, Tallinn

Estonian History Museum, Maarjamäe Castle(Eesti Ajaloomuuseum, Maarjamäe loss)

Guitar Hunt

Pargi 40, Jõhvi, www.concert.ee 9.4

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Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum)

KUMU art museum.

Tallinn Botanical Gardens (Tallinna Botaanikaaed)

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)

Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn, www.tba.ee, tel +372 606 26 66 Opening Hours: 11 -16

Vene 17, Tallinn, www.linnamuuseum.ee, tel +372 615 51 83 Location: Old Town Map Code G3 Opening Hours: We – Mo 10.30–18

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn, www.okupatsioonid.ee, tel +372 668 02 50. Location B1 Opening Hours: Tu-Su 11 - 18

The Best of Estonian Metal Metsatöll's music draws inspiration from traditions and an ancient Estonian dialect. The lyrics often carry the listener into the obscurity of the forest, full of wolves and other creatures.

Adamson-Erics Museum (Adamson Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 644 58 38. Location: Old Town Map Code I1 Opening Hours: We-Su 11–18 Ticket office closes 17.30

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum)

The music is heavily influenced by folk music. Lauri Õunapuu's folk instruments, such as bagpipes and the harp, give the band a unique sound.

Niguliste 3, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 631 43 30. Location: Old Town Map Code I1 Opening hours: We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30

The November released album Ulg, has received much praise. The album was recorded in the middle of a southern Estonian forest, far from the noise of the city.

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)

The Estonian folk metal band Metsatöll was established in 1999 in Tallinn. The band's current members have been together since 2004. Their debut album 'Terast mis hangund me hinge" was released in 1999. Metsatöll has released 5 albums in total. They have performed 300 times in over 10 countries. See them live at Rock Café on April 20. Tartu mnt. 80D, Tallinn, www.rockcafe.ee

Photo: Viktor Koshkin

Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 606 64 00. Location: Map Code B4 Opening Hours: January–June Wed 10–20, ThuSun 10–17. July–December  Tue 10–17, Wed 10–10, Thu-Sun 10–17

Kadrioru Castle (Kadrioru loss) Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, www.ekm.ee, tel +372 606 64 00, Map Code/Kartkod A4 Location: Map Code A4 Opening Hours: January–April Wed 10–20, Thu– Sun 10–17. May–June  Thu 10–17, Wed 10–20, Thu–Sun 10–17. July–December 2012  Closed

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn, www.loodusmuuseum.ee, tel +372 641 17 39 Map Code Old Town/Kartkod gamla stan F2 Location: Old Town Map Code F2 Opening Hours: We-Su 10–17

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design(Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum) Lai 17, Tallinn, www.edtm.ee, tel +372 627 46 00 Location: Old Town Map Code 1G Opening Hours: We-Su 11 - 18

Estonian Maritime Museum, Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) Pikk 70, Tallinn, www.meremuuseum.ee, tel +372 641 14 08. Location: Old Town Map Code D3 Opening Hours: We-Su 10–18

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu) Ahtri 2, Tallinn, www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee, tel +372 625 70 00 Location: Map Code A2 Opening Hours: We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18 Permanent exhibitions: Greater-Tallinn, Art Nouveau, Wooden Architecture, Functionalism, Power and the Square, Contemporary Architecture.

Tartu Toy Museum (Tartu Mänguasjamuuseum) Lutsu 8, Tartu, www.mm.ee, tel +372 746 17 77 Location: Tartu and southern Estonia Map Code B1 Opening hours We – Su 11 – 18


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traffic www in estonia traffic

TALLINN

Tartu

C II CDG EG U U™I DI D T HTE HBETAHLBETAI BCL ATGLI TU DEEE ™C™ EAAMPPBRREII LRL 2 0 11 212

Ferry Schedule Tallinn–Stockholm

Tallinn–St. Petersburg

Tallink departs everyday at 18.00

St. Petersline “Princess Anastasia” Su 18.00

Helsinki–Tallinn

Таllinn-Helsinki

07.30–09.30 Tallink Star/

07.30–09.30 Tallink Star/Superstar

Superstar (Su–F)

08.00–10.30 Viking XPRS

08.00–11.00 Nordlandia (M–F)

10.00–11.30 Lindaline

08.30–10.30 Tallink Superstar (Sa)

10.30–12.30 Tallink Star (Su)

09.00–12.00 Nordlandia (Sa)

11.00–13.00

10.00–11.30 Lindaline

11.30–13.30 Tallink Superstar (Sa)

10.30–12.30 Tallink Star/Superstar

12.00–13.30 Lindaline

10.30–13.30 Nordlandia (Su)

13.00–16.30 Baltic Princess

11.30–14.00 Viking XPRS

13.30–15.30 Tallink Superstar (Su)

12.00–13.30 Lindaline

14.00–16.00

13.30–15.30 Tallink Star (Su)

15.00–16.30 Lindaline

14.00–15.30 Lindaline

16.00–19.15 Nordlandia (Su)

14.00–16.00

16.30–19.00 Viking XPRS (Su)

Tallink Star/Superstar (M–F)

Tallink Star/Superstar (M–Sa)

14.30–16.30 Tallink Superstar (Sa)

16.30–20.00 Nordlandia (M–F)

16.30–18.30 Tallink Superstar (Su)

16.30–18.30 Tallink Star (Su)

17.00–18.30 Lindaline

17.00–18.30 Lindaline

17.30–19.30

17.30–19.30

Tallink Star/Superstar (M–Sa)

Tallink Star/Superstar (M–Sa)

18.30–22.00 Baltic Princess

17.30–20.45 Nordlandia (Sa)

19.00–20.30 Lindaline

18.00–20.30 Viking XPRS (M–Sa)

19.30–21.30 Tallink Star (Su)

19.00–20.30 Lindaline

20.00–22.30 Viking XPRS (Su)

19.30–21.30 Tallink Superstar (Su)

20.15–23.30 Nordlandia (Su)

21.00–22.30 Lindaline (F–Su)

21.00–22.30 Lindaline (F–Su)

21.00–23.00

21.00–00.15 Nordlandia (M–F)

22.30–00.30 Tallink Star (Su)

21.30–23.30

00.30–06.40 Nordlandia (M)

Tallink Star/Superstar (M–Sa)

The distance between the Viru Centre and the port is about 1 km. Bus no. 2 goes to the port. It passes by the airport. The Mõigu Bus Line passes through the port. For more information and timetables http:// soiduplaan.tallinn.ee/#bus/2/ ab. The Viru Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa. Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60€ or from R-kiosks for 1€.

08.00–09.30 Lindaline (M–Sa)

08.00–09.30 Lindaline (M–Sa)

Tallink Star/Superstar (M–F)

Getting to the Port

Tallink Star/Superstar (M–Sa)

21.30–00.00 Viking XPRS (M–Sa)

01.00–06.40 Nordlandia (Tu–F)

22.30–00.30 Tallink Superstar (Su)

01.00–07.00 Nordlandia (Sa)

Schedules are based on current information at the time of printing and The Baltic Guide is not responsible for changes/errors. Please consult individual websites before booking.

Free Bus from the Port

Useful Information No international driver’s license required. It is important for drivers to follow the following regulations: ■ Blood alcohol level must be 0. ■ Estonia has no freeways. Please mind intersections and cyclists. ■ The speed limit in towns is usually 50 km / h, but can vary between 30- 70 km / h. Speeds will be marked. Outside built-up areas the speed limit is 90 km / h, in some sections 110 km / h, but only in summer.

■ All cars must carry a warning triangle,

wheel chocks, first-aid kit and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear a fluorescent vest when stopped at night. ■ In case of collision, and in the event of injury, it is advisable to call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. ■ Parking and speeding fines will still be charged if visiting from overseas. Please pay fines on time to avoid penalty.

The Viking Line offers a free shuttle service to and from the city. The bus stop is Mere puiestee, opposite the Viru Centre. The bus departs at 14.15, 14.30 and 14.45. Rocca al Mare Prisma has a free bus that passes through the port terminals everyday between 10–17. Please consult the website for departure times: www.prismamarket.ee/prismabuss.php?lang=fin

Getting to the Airport The distance between the Viru Centre and the airport is 4 km. The no. 2 bus goes to the airport. The exact schedule can be found at http://soiduplaan.tallinn. ee/#bus/2/ab. The Viru Centre bus stop is A. Laikmaa and the airport stop is Lennujaam. Tickets are available on the bus for 1.60€ or from R-kiosks for 1€.

Important PU H E L I N NPhone U M E RNumbers: O T : P O LPOLICE I I S I 1 1 0110, , P E EMERGENCY L A S T U S T O I M I 112, 1 1 2 ,AUTOMOBILE A U T O A B I 1 81888 8 8 ( 2(24 4 h) H).

Copterline USEFUL VOCABULARY The car has broken down . . The car has run out of petrol Here is an accident. . . . . . . There is a block in the road . Where is the car repair?. . . .

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Auto läks katki Bensiin sai otsa Siin on avarii Teel on ummik Kus on autoremonditöökoda/kummiparandus?

www.fast-class.com Tel. +358 (0) 200 18181

Tallinn Bus Station Lastekodu 46, 10144, Tallinn Open M–Sa 6.30–21, Su 6.45–21 Tel. +372 12 550 (Schedules www.bussireisid.ee)

Tallinn Train Station

Parking in Tallinn

Toompuiestee 37, 10133, Tallinn Tel. +372 1447 (Schedules www.edel.ee/soiduplaanid/)

Eckerö Line

■ Customs Regulations Visitors from EU countries may carry unlimited amounts of tobacco products into Estonia. ALL TOBACCO PRODUCTS MUST DISPLAY HEALTH WARNINGS. IN THEIR ABSENCE, THE FOLLOWING RULES APPLIES: 200 CIGARETTES OR 200G OF LOOSE TOBACCO

Cars or motorcycles entering Estonia may carry up to 10L of petrol in regulation containers. Drugs may not be brought into Estonia without permission. Live animals and plants as well as rare animal and plant species and so forth, also require special permission. Firearms and other weapons are prohibited. Pirated materials are prohibited.

See also http://www.emta.ee/ index.php?id=1089 Customs Information Tel. +358 20 690 600

CUSTOMS REGULATIONS FOR PERSONS ARRIVING FROM OUTSIDE OF THE EU. PERSONS OVER THE AGE OF 18 MAY BRING: TOBACCO :

40 cigarettes 100 cigarillos 50 cigars 50 g smoking tobacco or 50 g chewing tobacco

The first 15 minutes of parking are free when using a parking clock. The 15 minute free parking does not apply in parking lots. Parking tickets can be purchased from a kiosk or in select stores. Parking tickets must state the year, month, day, hour and minute of purchase. Shopping malls are equipped with an automatic teller that accepts coins. In Tallinn, most parking lots are paid. Parking fines vary. Failure to pay for parking may result in a fine of 20. If the parked car is obstructing traffic, the fine will be 64

ALCOHOL Wine 4 L (and sparkling wine) Beer 16 L 2 L of alcohol under 22% alc/vol or 1 L alcohol above 22% alc/vol.

■ Tallinn Taxis

Up to 10 L of petrol may be brought into Estonia by car.

■ Day and evening (23.00–6.00) taxi fares can vary. Each taxi company has their own rates. Every taxi must display driver information and photo.

TAX-FREE

Visitors from outside the EU may be eligible for a tax refund under the Tax Refund Scheme. Purchases exceeding 38,35€ including VAT are eligible for a tax refund with proof of purchase document obtained at the time of purchase to be presented at the airport. Further information can be found in stores bearing the tax-free symbol.

■ For example, a one-way ride starting at Viru Hotel and lasting approximately 1.5 km should cost about 6€. With traffic congestion, the amount may be higher. ■ It pays to be careful when choosing a taxi, because some companies have much higher rates than others. Taxi prices are displayed on the right rear window and on the vehicle’s dashboard. The minimum fee must be displayed on the price list, as well as the rate per kilometer and standing rate. The

with the possibility of it being towed. In this case, please contact the city police 14410. Unpaid fines do not go away, even if you are overseas. Unpaid fines may triple in value.

Nordlandia Tallinn: Reisisadam A-terminal Helsinki: Länsi Terminal

Linda Line

Parking Fees ■ Tallinn Parking 15 min / 0,26€ Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15. Free on Sundays. ■ City Centre 15 min / 0,58€ Payment required M–F 7–19, Sa 8–15. Free on Sundays. ■ Old Town 15 min / 1,15€ Payment required 24h, 7 days.

cost of the trip is always the displayed taximeter rate, as an ‘agreed rate’ will not always be honoured. Taxi drivers must print a receipt. If for some reason the taxi driver does not offer a GFIK&?89FLI receipt then the passenger is not KiX`eJkXk`fe obliged to pay. If you feel that the I8EE8Dv< price was unreasonable then make 8?KI@ M@IL K<< E8IM8DEK% note of the car registration number, FC; JHL8I< date of journey and the name of M`il_fk\cc KFNE the taxi company. <JKFE@8 JkfZbdXee >FEJ@FI@ GJK% C@@M8C8@8 GvIELDEK%

Bookings +358 6 000 4300 (1.64 €/received call+local call cost). Tallinn Tel. +372 6 646 000

K8IKLDEK% AL?B<EK8C@

■ If you feel that you have been cheated, you may send complaints to: tta@tallinnlv.ee and/or The Baltic Guide: editorial@balticguide.ee. Or call the Tallinn Service Line 1345.

Bookings Tel. +358 60 0066 8970, (1.64 €/received call+local call cost). Tallinn Tel. +372 6 999 333. www.lindaliini.ee Merilin & Karolin Tallinn: Linnahall Port Helsinki: Makasiini Terminal

Tallink Bookings everyday from 07–22, Tel. +358 6 001 5700 (1.64 €/ received call+local call cost), Tallinn info and bookings Tel. +372 6 409 808. Tickets also available in travel agencies. Tallink Star, Baltic Princess, Superstar Tallinn: Reisisadam D-terminal Helsinki: Länsi Terminal

Viking Line Helsinki Bookings Tel. +358 6 004 1577 (1.64 €/ received call+local call cost), Tallinn Tel. +372 6 663 966 Tallinn A-terminal, Helsinki Katajanokka

Finnair www.finnair.ee. Tallinn +372 6 266 310, +372 6 266 309 Helsinki–Vantaa Airport +358 600 140 140 (3.04 €/ received call+local call cost)


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first aid…esmaabi

www.visitestonia.com

T

Tartu

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V

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, 10119, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282

TOURIST INFORMATION

Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullasepa 4, Tallinn. Tel. +372 6 457 777

Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Tel. +372 44 73 000 Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare, Saaremaa Tel. +372 45 33 120 Hiiumaa: Hiiu tn 1, Kärdla Tel. +372 46 22 232 Haapsalu: Posti 37, Haapsalu Tel. +372 47 33 248

■ Post Office Tallinn Post Office Narva mnt 1, 10111, Tallinn Open M–F 8–20, Sa 9–17 Tel. +372 617 7037

Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Tel. +372 337 05 68 Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva Tel. +372 359 91 374 Otepää: Lipuväljak 13, Otepää Tel. +372 766 12 00 Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Tel. +372 766 16 99 Viljandi: Vabaduse plats, Viljandi Tel. +372 433 04 42 Võru: Tartu mnt. 31, Võru Tel. +372 782 1881 Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Tel. +372 324 27 34 Rapla: Viljandi mnt. 4, Rapla Tel. +372 489 43 59 Tartu: Raekoda, Tartu Tel. +372 744 2111

Holidays 1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday Easter Monday; 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

School Breaks 17–25.3. Spring Break 6.6.–31.8. Summer Break 22.–30.10. Autumn Break 23.12.–8.1. Winter Break

■ Tallinn Shopping Centres Hours of Operation

EMBASSIES AUSTRIA Vambola 6, 10114 Tallinn +372 627 8740

FINLAND Kohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn, +372 610 3200

ICELAND Tõnismägi 3A, 10119 Tallinn, +372 640 8711

NORWAY Harju 6, 10130 Tallinn +372 627 1000

TURKEY Narva mnt. 30, 10152 Tallinn, +372 627 2880

Rocca Al Mare Shopping Centre Centre Open 10–21 Prisma Open 8–23

BELGIUM Rataskaevu 2-9, 10123 Tallinn, +372 627 4100

FRANCE Toom-Kuninga 20, 10122 Tallinn, +372 616 1600

IRELAND Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 681 1888

POLAND Suur-Karja 1, 10146 Tallinn +372 627 8206

UKRAINE Lahe 6, 10150 Tallinn +372 601 5815

Kristiine Shopping Centre Centre Open 10–21 Prisma Open 8–23

BULGARIA A. Lauteri 5E, 10114 Tallinn +372 648 0388

GEORGIA Viru väljak 2, 10111 Tallinn +372 698 8590

ITALY Vene 2/4, 10140 Tallinn +372 627 6160

PORTUGAL Kohtu 10, 10130 Tallinn +372 611 7468

UNITED KINGDOM Wismari 6, 10136 Tallinn +372 667 4700

Stockmann Open M–Sa 9–20 (Groceries and Cosmetics 9–21), Su 10–20

CANADA Toom-Kooli 13, 10130 Tallinn, +372 627 3311

GERMANY Toom-Kuninga 11, 15048 Tallinn, +372 627 5303

LATVIA Tõnismägi 10, 10119 Tallinn, +372 627 7850

RUSSIA Pikk 19, 10123 Tallinn +372 646 4175

Tallinna kaubamaja Open everyday 9–21, Grocery store open 9–22

CZECH REPUBLIC Lahe 4, 10150 Tallinn +372 627 4400

GREECE Pärnu mnt 12, 10148 Tallinn, +372 640 3560

LITHUANIA Uus 15, 10111 Tallinn +372 631 4030

SWEDEN Pikk 28, 10133 Tallinn +372 640 5600

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Kentmanni 20, 10116 Tallinn +372 668 8100

DENMARK Wismari 5, 10136 Tallinn +372 630 6400

HUNGARY Narva mnt 122, 13628 Tallinn, +372 605 1880

NETHERLAND Rahukohtu 4, 10130 Tallinn Tel. +372 680 5500

Mustika Shopping Centre Open M–Sa 10–20, Su 10–18 Prisma Open 8–23 Ülemiste Shopping Centre Open 10–21, Grocery store open 9–22

How to make a phone call

Norde Centrum Open 10–21, Grocery store open 8–22

in Estonia, from Estonia, to Estonia With a mobile phone from Estonia to outside the country: + (country code)(phone number) When calling Estonia enter country code +372 then the phone number. For example +372 6 666 666. When calling within Estonia the country code may be omitted. For example, 777 7777. Russia’s country code is +8, Estonia +372.

WIFI Networks When travelling in Estonian please consult www.wifi.ee for wireless hotspots. At the end of September there were 1136 wireless networks listed. In Tallinn, the city is divided into several sections. In the city centre, 185 hotspots can be found, and most of them are marked in green, meaning that they can be used free of charge. The Viru Shopping Centre, as well as many hotels and bars also offer free connections. In some places, a password may be required to access the free network. Many cities including Tallinn, offer their guests and residents free connections. These can be found on the website listed above. If you are in need of a constant internet connection, it is advised to purchase a pre-paid plan from a mobile company.

SadaMarket Open 8–19 Foorum Shopping Centre Open M–Sa 10–20, Su 10–19 Solaris Open 10–21, Grocery store open 9–23

Event Tickets Tickets to Estonian events are sold at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm and Ticketpro. Piletilevi (www.piletilevi.ee) The site is in English, Estonian, Russian and Finnish. Purchases require login. Sales outlets can be found in shopping centres and Statoil stations. Piletimaailm (www.piletimaailm.com) The website is in Estonian only and sells theatre tickets. Sales outlets can be found in theatres and supermarkets. Ticketpro (www.ticketpro.ee) The website is in Estonian, English and Russian. Sales outlets can be found in post offices and at the Solaris Shopping Centre.

Tallinn Card is available at

■ Currency Exchange

Tallinn Tourist Information Kiosks, Kullassepa 4/Niguliste 2, from A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn hotels, www.tallinncard.ee.

Banks will exchange currency for a small commission.

please...........................................palun thank you ...................................aitäh, tänan excuse me ..................................vabandage hello..............................................tere, tervist good morning ..........................tere hommikust good day.....................................tere päevast good evening............................tere õhtust good night .................................head ööd goodbye .....................................nägemist, head aega all the best..................................kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.......................head reisi bon appetite .............................jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ............terviseks

Tavid Kristiine Shopping Centre Endla 45, Tallinn. M–Su 10–21 Järve Selver Pärnu mnt. 238, Tallinn M–Su 10–21

■ Useful Phrases

Picture: Kaarel Mikkin

Viru Shopping Centre Open everyday 9–21, Grocery store open 9–22

Rocca Al Mare Shopping Centre Paldiski mnt 102, Tallinn M–Su 9–21 How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

Sikupilli Prisma Tartu mnt 87, Tallinn Lõunakeskus Ringtee 75, Tartu. M–Su 10–21

Eurex Viru Keskus Viru väljak 4, Tallinn. M–Su 9–21 Mustakivi Shopping Center Mahtra 1, Tallinn M–Sa 10–20, Su 10–18 Kaubamajakas Papiniidu 8/10, Pärnu. M–Su 10–20


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Tallinn and Estonia

Tartu Tartu

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Tallinn Sightseeing Foto: Stina Kase

■ Kadriorg Park. This area houses the Presidential Palace and the palace of Peter the Great, where today the KUMU Art Museum stands. There are plenty of other things to see as well, in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace head straight along the park trail to the Rusalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland.

ABOUT ESTONIA Area: 45,227 km2. Population: about 1,350,000. Capital: Tallinn, population about 400,000. Independence: 24 February, 1918, Re-independence: 20 August, 1991. Weather: Average temperature July 16°C, February -9°C. Time zone: GMT +2 Language: Official language Estonian. Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. Religion: Approximately 20 % of Estonians are non-religious, 30 % Lutheran, 28 % Orthodox and 3 % Catholic. Currency: Euro. Visa, MasterCard, Eurocard, Diner’s Club and American Express are widely accepted. Electricity: 220 V / 50 Hz, European (Type C) plug.

Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. IN THE OLD TOWN: ■ The watchtowers of Suur-Kloostri and Väike-Kloostri allow access to Nunna Tower and from there, access to Sauna Tower and Kuldjala Tower.

■ The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe’s oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location in the Town Hall Square.

■ Town Hall Square (Raekoda). Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square was built at the beginning of the 1400s.

OUTSIDE OF THE OLD TOWN: ■ Freedom Square (Vabaduse väljak). This square holds great symbolic importance and is located just south of the Old Town. The pillar located at the edge of the square, consists of a large pedestal with the Cross of Liberty (Vabadusrist) placed on top. This monument reads: “Estonian War of Independence 1918–1920”. On its other side in a the Freedom Bell (Vabaduse kell).

■ Built in 1246, St. Catherine’s Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. ■ Mustapeade House. Built in 1399 for the Brotherhood of Blackheads and is Tallinn’s only renaissance building.

Arena 3

Mere pst. 6a, Tallinn A2 www.protest.ee

Closed Sundays Vana-Viru 13/Aia 4, Tallinn H3 www.kokteilibaar.ee

Cathouse Open: Wed–Su. Viru Väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2. www.cathouse.ee

Cellar Open: Thu–Sa. Laikmaa 5, Tallink Hotel B2. www.hotels.tallink.com

Club Von Überblingen Open: Fri–Sa. Madara 22a, Tallinn www.uberclub.ee

Hollywood Closed Sundays. Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn I2 www.clubhollywood.ee

Inferno Open: Wed–Su. Viru 24, Tallinn H3 www.amneziaclub.ee

Korter Roseni 9, Tallinn A2. www.krtr.ee

Panoraam Open: Fri–Sa. Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2 www.clubpanoraam.ee

■ History Museums Bastion Tunnels (Bastioni käigud). Kommandandi tee 2. Map Code Old Town J1. Underground tunnels beneath Tallinn’s Old Town. Kiek in de Kök. Kommandandi tee 2. Map Code Old Town J1. Medieval watchtower. Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum). Müürivahe 33. Map Code Old Town G3. A medieval monastery with monk’s rooms. Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum). Viru väljak 4. Map Code Tallinn B2. Soviet era hotel culture and KGB surveillance room. Estonian History Museum – Maarjamäe Castle (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum – Maarjamäe loss). Pirita tee 56. Estonian History Museum – Suurkildi Building ( Eesti Ajaloomuuseum – Suurkildi hoone). Pikk 17. Map Code Tallinn G2. Both museums showcase

Estonia’s and the Estonian people’s history. The Suurkildi building was renovated in 2011. Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum). Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12. In the suburb of Rocca al Mare, the west end Tallinn museum with a model Estonian village.

Parlament Open: Fri–Sa. Ahtri 10, Tallinn A2 www.clubparlament.ee

Partei Open: Fri–Sa. Rävala *, Tallinn www.parteiklubi.ee

Protest

Rock Café Tartu mnt. 80D, Tallinn C4 www.rockcafe.ee

Sossi Klubi Open: Fri–Sa. Tartu mnt. 82, Tallinn C4 www.sossi.ee

Teater Open: Fri–Sa. Vabaduse Väljak 5, Tallinn B2. www.klubiteater.ee

Vabank Open: Fri–Sa. Harju 13, Tallinn J1 www.vabank.ee

Venus Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn B2 www.venusclub.ee

Von Krahl Baar Rataskaevu 10/12, Tallinn H1 www.vonkrahl.ee

Tallinn Sports Pubs and Restaurants The following establishments show football as well as other sports. Clayhills, Pikk 13. Hiiu Pub, Pärnu mnt 325. Mack Bar-B-Que, Tartu mnt 63. Molly Malone’s, Mündi 2. Nimeta Baar, Suur-Karja 4. The Lost Continent, Narva mnt 19. Winners Sports Lounge, Kloostri tee 6.

pets at the Estonian Puppet Theatre in Tallinn.

this museum also has the icebreaker ‘Suur Töll’ on display.

Photo Museum in Tallinn’s old town prison (Raevangla fotomuuseum). Raekoja 4. Map Code Old Town H2. Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square, this museum showcases modern photography exhibits.

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti-ja disainimuuseum). Lai 17. Map Code Old Town F2.

■ Other Museums

Tallinn Science Centre (Tallinna teaduskeskus). Põhja pst 29. Map Code Tallinn A2. The wonders of energy and physics.

AHHAA Science Centre (AHHAA teaduskeskus). Vabaduse plats, Kaarli pst 2B. Map Code Tartu Old Town J1. Fun for the whole family.

Estonian Architecture Museum (Eesti arhitektuurimuuseum). Ahtri 2. Map Code Tallinn A2. Estonian architecture, past and present.

Children’s Museum (Lastemuusem). Kotzebue 16. Map Code Tartu A1. Children’s toys throughout the ages.

Estonian Nature Museum (Eesti Loodusmuuseum). Lai 29A. Map Code Tallinn F2. Estonian flora and fauna.

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda). L. Koidula 21C. Map Code Tallinn B4. An interactive children’s museum.

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti meremuuseum). Pikk 70. Map Code Old Town E3. Located in the Paks Margareeta tower and the Seaplane Harbour in Tallinn.

Puppet Museum (Nukumuuseum NUKU). Lai 1. Map Code Old Town G1. A museum about the world of pup-

■ Tallinn Zoo. Approximately 90 hectares, this zoo houses many rare species as well as many large mammals, including elephants, polar bears, chimpanzees and rhinoceros. Located opposite the Rocca al Mare Shopping Centre.

Open: Wed–Sa. Harju 6, Tallinn B2 www.clubprive.ee

Butterfly Lounge

Tallinn Museums

■ The Tallinn Botanical Gardens. 4,500 varieties of plants and 123 hectares of greenhouses, and parks, the Botanical Gardens are an oasis in the summer and winter.

Privé

Mere pst 6E, Tallinn B2 www.bonbon.ee

Tallinn has a vibrant nightlife. The city has many kinds of clubs and pubs, fancy or casual. There is something for everyone. Be sure to check out individual club websites for upcoming gigs.

■ The Ruins of St. Bridget’s Convent (Pirita Klooster). Located near Pirita Beach, this monastery was built in 1407 during the Swedish occupation. The convent was destroyed by Ivan the Terrible’s troops in 1577.

Open: Thu–Su Viru Väljak 4, Tallinn B2 www.amigo.ee

Bonbon

Tallinn Nightlife

■ The Tallinn Song Festival Grounds (Tallinna lauluväljak). Built in 1960, this amphitheatre can hold more than 30 000 singers. These grounds played an important part of the process that led to the restoration of Estonian independence, the initial phase in the Singing Revolution.

Cafe Amigo

Open: Fri–Sat. Sadama 6, Tallinn B2 www.arena3.ee

Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam). Küti 17. Located on the north shore,

z A Brief History of Estonia

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum). Müürivahe 12. Map Code Old Town I2.

■ Art Museums Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru plats – Kadrioru kunstimuuseum). A. Weizenbergi 37. Map Code B4. Located next to Mikkeli Museum, displaying foreign art. Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum). Niguliste 3. Map Code Old Town I1. Located in an old church, this museum has many silver objects on display. Kumu Art Museum (Kunstimuuseum Kumu). A. Weisenbergi 34/Valge 1. Map Code Tallinn B5. Estonian art museum, designed by architect Pekka Vapaavuori.

10,000 BC The Ice Age ends and people arrive in the territory of Estonia. 11th Century The main source of subsistence is agriculture and the provincial government is formed. 1200s The Livonian Brotherhood of the Sword is formed in Southern Estonia and the Danish occupy Northern Estonia. 1343 St. George’s Night uprising. Estonian peasants rise up against the occupiers with modest success. 1346 Denmark sells land in Estonia to the Teutonic Order. 1558 Ivan the Terrible of Russia goes to war against Livonia, when Estonia comprised part of Latvia. The war began in 1553 and included Denmark, Sweden and Poland. Estonia and Latvia were divided among Poland (Latvia and Southern Estonia), Sweden (Northern Estonia), and Denmark (Saaremaa). 1600s Schools are set up and the University of Tartu (1632) is under Swedish rule. 1700–1710 The Great Northern War inflicts fruitless years of famine and plague. The population decreases from 350,000 to 100,000. 1710 Tallinn and Uusikaupunki belong to Russia after the Treaty of Nystad. 1800s The power of the Tsar diminishes, serfdom is abolished and peasants are given the right to purchase land (1860). In 1914, half of the land belongs to the German nobility. Political power remains in the hands of the nobility. 1917 With the fall of the Russian Empire, Estonia receives autonomy. Estonia organises elections and Konstantin Päts becomes head of government. 1918 Germany occupies Estonia. The Estonian Provincial Assembly declares Estonia’s independence on February 24. Estonian forces fight against German and Russian forces. 1919 Estonian War of Independence continues and ends on 02.02.1920 in Tartu.

1920 The first formal law of Independent Estonia is made to expand democracy. Many small political parties are formed. 1929–35 The economic and political crisis of 1929-35 results in a state of emergency and a disbandment of the parliament. Päts rules by decree. 1937 A new constitution is written, 1938 Päts becomes president, there is a return to constitutional governance, but full democracy is not reached prior to the Soviet occupation. 1939 The German-Soviet NonAggression Pact is signed. On September 28, Estonia is forced to allow the Soviet Army to set up military bases in Estonia. 1940 “Elections” are held, after which Estonia becomes a Soviet Republic (27.7.) and merges with the Soviet Union. 1940–41 The Germans occupy Estonia. Nearly 70 000 Estonians join the German army. In September 1944, the Red Army sweeps in on Estonia again. 1944–91 Estonia is Soviet Estonia. Near the end of 1944, a large part of the population flees abroad. About 10,000 men (The Forest Brothers) will continue to fight. 1948–25,000 Estonians are deported to camps in the east. In 1940 the Estonian population was estimated at 1.1 million, but by 1949 it had decreased to 850,000. 1955 Over 200,000 non-Estonians move to Estonia. In 1980, more than 60% of the population is Estonian. 1987 An attempt is made by Estonians to break from the Soviet Union. There are demonstrations, including the environmental campaign against opening large phosphorus mines in Virumaa. 1988 The Singing Revolution, Estonia declares its sovereignty on 16.11.1988. 1991 Estonia regains independence on August 20 after the failure of the coup d’état in Moscow. 2004 Estonia joins the European Union and NATO. 2011 The Euro replaces the Crown, used since 1992 as currency.

City of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–). 1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided amongst princes and bourgeoisie in the uppertown and craftsmen in the lower-town. 1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn. 1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes the Estonian capital. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.


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The Baltic Guide ENG April 2012  

The Baltic Guide in English is a tourist newspaper for visitors to Estonia. The newspaper's broad content covers everything from cultural e...

The Baltic Guide ENG April 2012  

The Baltic Guide in English is a tourist newspaper for visitors to Estonia. The newspaper's broad content covers everything from cultural e...

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