The Baltic Guide ENG March 2015 by The Baltic Guide

ENGLISH EDITION

Your free guide to Estonia

m a r c h 2 0 15

www.balticguide.ee

what The best things where to seedoandin when Estonia

Tallinn Music Week

Curly Strings Shopping at Ülemiste Family Fun in the City Where to get your spice fix

Nightlife – Tallinn on any Budget - Tips for a frugal night out

The Most Exciting Estonian Shopping Center

Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport Tartu Airport Flying is the fastest and most comfortable mode of travel. The airport is the best place to advertise. Promote your business with banners, back-lit windows, showcases, posters, billboards, internet kiosks, car advertising and other personalised solutions, everywhere in the airport.

Queries: +372 605 8234

advertising@tll.aero

editorial

t h e b a lt i c g u i d e ™ m a r c h 2 0 1 5

Signs of Spring

hile the winter may not be over quite yet, the short winter days certainly are. And what a difference it makes! Dare I say it: spring is in the air? March is a great month in Estonia. Tallinn Music Week takes place at the end of the month, with a great line up of Estonian and international bands. It’s a good way to familiarise yourself with the local music scene. Also taking place at the same time is the Tallinn Craft Beer Weekend at Telliskivi. Back in the fall a local craft beer festival was organised and it was a huge success. Take the time to cross the train tracks and visit the bohemian neighbourhood of Kalamaja where Telliskivi is located. This area has been growing over the last few

years and is turning into quite a place, filled with great restaurants, theatre, and shopping. In this issue we’ve got a great selection of new restaurants to try, including a few vegetarian ones. We’ve got a guide to where to get your fix of spice in Tallinn, if you’re getting tired of the meat and potatoes. Turn to the centre for a look at the best things to see and do while in Tallinn. Outdoor activities, fascinating museums, and gorgeous sites are just some of things in store for a trip to Estonia in March. Happy travels! Kristina Lupp Editor-in-chief

Contents 3 editorial 5-6 sightseeing

March Highlights

restaurants 8-9 restaurants: spicy food in Tallinn vapiano väike uba raw food café bliss café fresh

01 Tallinn Craft Beer Weekend From March 27-28, an international festival of craft brewers will take place in Tallinn. The festival will bring together about twenty or so different brewers, including eight from Estonia. Samples of the craft beers will be available for tasting. The event will take place at Telliskivi 57.

02 Top Violin Concert The British violin virtuoso Vanessa Mae will perform on March 30 at Tallinn’s Saku Suurhall, together with a symphony orchestra and choir.

03 International Women’s Day International Women’s Day is celebrated in Estonia with flowers and bubbly drinks. You can celebrate women’s day by going to a concert. The favourite band Noorkuu will be performing at the Estonia Concert Hall on March 8 in Tallinn. Many concerts will be taking place all over Estonia in honour of International Women’s Day.

The World Film Festival 2015 brings new documentary films to Tartu from all over the world from March 14-21. The festival takes place in the Tartu Uus Theatre, the Estonian National Museum, and the Genialistide Klubi.

05 Estonia vs. Iceland Estonia will take on Iceland at the A Le Coq Arena in Tallinn on March 31. This is a farewell competition for the Estonian football player Raio Piiroja. Piiroja finishes his career after one hundred matches.

Pick up your free copy at:

March 2015

Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Contributors: Stuart Garlick Design: Evelin Linholm Photography: Andrei Chertkov Printing House: AS Kroonpress

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones,

O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seitse Merd Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

Your Comments n We always appreciate your feedback. Tell us your thoughts on our content, layout, things you think we should add -- good or bad. Write to: kristina@balticguide.ee. or send a letter to: THE BALTIC GUIDE Põhja pst. 25, 10415, Tallinn.

Contact Information Põhja pst 25, 10415 Tallinn, tel +372 611 77 60 e-mail: balticguide@balticguide.ee Marketing Manager: Annika Aavik tel +372 58 502 480

Photo: Patrik Tamm

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04 The Wonder ful World of documentary Film

10-11 entertainment & nightlife 12-13 activities 14 shopping 15 beauty 16 march events 17 walking tour 18 museum 19 getting around 20 transport 21-22 maps and information

Photo: Maailmafilm

shopping

Första stället i Tallinn när man kommer sjövägen och sista när man beger sig till havs! The first place to come when You arrive and the last place to visit before leaving!

Massor av härliga smakupplevelser!

Levande musik varje dag/ Live music every day 12-15

Taste one of our delicious dishes! Öppet/Open: varje dag/every day 8-19. Köket öppet från kl/ The kitchen open from 8. Sadamarket Shopping Centrum 1a vån/1st floor, 100m från A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals. Sadama 8/Kai 5 (opposite the Sadamaturg), Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, info@seitsemerd.ee, www.seitsemerd.ee

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sightseeing

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Photo: T. Tuul

Must-see sights of the Old Town in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick. Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn B1.

Text kristina lupp, Photos Andrei Chertkov

Viewing Platforms Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arms length. The red tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn B1. Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church was even taller in medieval times and the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn B1. Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets. Tallinn B1.

Raeapteek The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location, in the Town Hall Square. Tallinn Old Town H1. Photo: Anneli Tandorf

Raekoja plats Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s.

Toompea Castle The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Riigikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn B1.

Tallinn Old Town H 1-2.

Katariina käik

Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene. Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants. Tallinn Old Town H 2-3.

Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels

St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik) Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath, but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea, was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town E2.

The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means, “look into the kitchen”

Paks Margareeta Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 metres and the walls are up to 6.5 metres thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn, if arriving by sea. Pikk 70,Tallinn A2.

Hop on, Hop off Bus Tour

KGB Museum

Town Hall Square

Kiek in de kök

A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests. The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours fill up quickly so bookings are recommended. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.

Sometimes you just don’t have enough time to see everything, but on the Tallinn City Tour you just might. Three lines run daily, and best of all, each one passes through the Port of Tallinn, making it even more convenient. The tour operates in ten different languages and is guided by a recorded audio track that follows the sequence of the sights. One ticket is valid for 24 hours. This means that you can travel on all three routes in one day. If you purchase a 24-hour Tallinn Card then your journey on the Tallinn City Tour is free.

n Pick up the Tallinn Card (available from Tourist Information Kiosks and the A & D terminals at the port) for free entrance to many museums, free use of Tallinn city transportation, including the Hop on, Hop off bus (don’t forget to swipe the card), and further discounts all around town. www.tallinncard.ee

sightseeing

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Estonia at-a-glance

Area: 45,227 km². Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000. Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country. Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are non-religious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.

Outside of the Old Town Text kristina lupp, Photos Andrei Chertkov

by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.

Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail.

Kalamaja & Kopli Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. Since the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870, many factories opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafés began to open, and the area continues to grow .

Patarei Prison (Patarei Vangla) Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

Kalaranna 2-2a By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. From there, by foot along the Cultural Kilometre trail, just before the Seaplane Harbour.

Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam) Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines built in the UK in the mid 1930s. Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian War of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service. The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI

The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–). 1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn.

Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre and offers a variety of things to see and do. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. A stroll through the ruins and the surrounds, including the small cemetery, is a moving reminder of the past. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day in summer. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only provides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district. A starting point for information on these can be found at:

1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

n Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn.

Tourist Information Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoja plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu

Kadriorg Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century. The park and the palace were built by Peter the Great, who apparently helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.

A quick history of the city of Tallinn

1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish.

Pirita

Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County. Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu. Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes Estonia's capital. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

n Central Post Offices Postimaja Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2. Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1. Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3. Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

n Currency Exchange

Estonian Open Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn.

Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

Holidays

1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

2014/2015 School Holidays Christmas break 20 December 2014- 4 January 2015 Spring Break 14-22 March 2015 Summer Break 4 June - 31 August 2015

New German Schnitzel Restaurant in Tallinn’s Old Town.

Free shot of liqueur when you order a schnitzel.

Pork Schnitzels, Chicken Schnitzels… Always up to 500g

Children’s Menu Available All dishes prepared by our German chef.

New location:

Rüütli 28/30, Old Town

Schnitzel Haus • Open Sun-Thu 12-24, Fri-Sat 12-02 Rüütli 28/30, Old Town • Tel +372 6 450 059 • www.schnitzelhaus.ee

THE BEST STEAK YOU’VE EVER HAD Viru 22, Tallinn, ph. +372 661 5518, www.steak.ee Eteläranta 14, Helsinki, ph. + 358 (0)504198000, www.steak.fi

RAEKOJA PLATS 15 TEL. +372 627 6245 MON–SUN 10–23 WWW.TROIKA.EE Live music every night!

FROM RUSSIA...WITH LOVE

FRESHEST SALAD, PASTA AND PIZZA IN TOWN!

“We were a group of 42 people and we decided to visit the Estonia Concert Hall. On the way back to the hotel, we stumbled upon the Beer Garden, a restaurant in the Old Town. They had a great selection of beers and fantastic food, but the best part was that we got to sit together at one big table! We danced until we could dance no more! Some of us even partied until morning and did not even make it back to the hotel…” Jane, 36; London

VAPIANO FOORUM Hobujaama 10, Tallinn. Near the harbour. VAPIANO SOLARIS Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn Near the National Opera Theatre. Open Sun-Thu 11-23, Fri-Sat 11-24 VAPIANO EESTI FREE WIFI WWW.VAPIANO.EE

VAPIANO HELSINKI Mikonkatu 15, Helsinki Open Mon-Thu 11-23, Fri 11-01, Sat 12-01, Sun 12-21 VAPIANO HELSINKI FREE WIFI

PASTA & PIZZA from

5,50€

WWW.VAPIANO.FI

Aia 10 / Inseneri 1, Old Town, Tallinn info@beergarden.ee Ph.: +372 688 0013; Mob.:+372 565 2004 Fri - Sat 10.00-05.00, Sun - Thur 10.00-00.00

restau

Photo: Tallinn Music Week

n TMW Tastes 2015

n Toortoidukohvik Väike Uba

Thanks to the success of last year’s Tallinn Music Week Tastes, the five-day restaurant festival is back. The festival selects the best of Tallinn’s restaurants and cafés and offers special menus and discounts to festival guests.

Tallinn has seen a few vegetarian/ vegan restaurants open this past year, and here is another. This raw food café is only open Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays from 13.00-15.00, but visitors can expect a different menu every week featuring a great selection of vegetarian and vegan dishes.

25-29 March Various locations, Tallinn

Vabriku 41, Tallinn

Excellent Mexican takeaway at Cerrito Burrito.

Falafels and wraps are made fresh to order at Papa Joe’s.

How many chillies can you tolera When you’re tired of meat and potatoes, visit any one of these great restaurants for

international Text Kristina Lupp, Photos Andrei Chertkov

n Chedi

Photo: Tokumaru

Sulevimägi 1, Tallinn Old Town F2

If you’re in the mood to splurge for a fancy meal, Chedi is the place to come. The modern interior welcomes guests into an exotic and intimate setting for a meal to remember. Try the fried squid and the pork ribs. Every dish is beautifully plated and perfect for sharing. The longest sushi roll at Tokumaru.

n Shimo Wok & Roll Rataskaevu 9 / Dunkri 11, Tallinn Old Town H1

The kitchen stays open late at Shimo, and if you’re counting your pennies you need look no further than this bar. They have a good and inexpensive selection of TexMex favourites and some Asianfusion dishes as well.

n Tokumaru

Estonia pst 9, Tallinn (2nd floor, Solaris Shopping Centre) B2

Chakra offers Tallinn's best Indian cuisine.

Located just above the cinema in the Solaris Shopping Centre, Tokumaru is Tallinn’s first ramen place. In addition to ramen, there is also a good selection of sushi. For something different, try the Aburi salmon – it’s salmon sushi that was been cooked slightly on the top and served with a thin slice of lemon.

n Cha Dao

Suur-Patarei 2, Tallinn A2

This is probably the best place to come for dim sum in Tallinn and not spend a fortune. If you come at lunch, Cha Dao offers business lunch specials, which include soup, salad, and a main. Tea lovers will certainly enjoy their extensive list.

n Golden Dragon

Pikk 37, Tallinn Old Town G2

If you are craving lemon chicken, and other fried Chinese favourites, this is the place to come. This cheap and cheerful Chinese restaurant is located in a cellar in the Old Town; go to the back of the restaurant for a cosy booth.

here, but you can add even more to your burrito with their selection of hot sauces.

n Papa Joe’s Falafel Sadama 25/4, Tallinn A2

Located in the port area of Tallinn, Papa Joe’s Falafel has a small menu of vegetarian and meat dishes. Be sure to try the grilled halloumi and sujuk wrap. The falafels are prepared while you wait, and the friendly staff is always chatty and eager to tell you more about the food.

n Chakra

Bremeni käik 1, Tallinn Old Town G3

Gotsu is the best place for Korean food in Tallinn, hands down. It’s a little ways out of the Old Town, but worth the walk, or short tram ride. Try some of the house made ice tea, kim chi, and the fried chicken with chilli.

This is the best option for Indian in Tallinn. It’s located a little off the beaten track in Tallinn’s Old Town in a tiny passageway. The three dining rooms are richly decorated with bright fabrics that hang from the ceiling. The menu is long, offering everything from veggies to seafood, chicken and lamb. And best of all: spicy means spicy.

n Cerrito Burrito

n The Street Wok

n Gotsu

Pärnu mnt 62A, Tallinn C1

Estonia pst 9, Tallinn (1st floor, Solaris Shopping Centre) B2

The short menu at Cerrito Burrito offers tacos, salads, soups, nachos, and burritos, of course. There is something for everyone, including gluten-free tortillas and vegetarian fillings. Spicy means spicy

Tatari 42, Tallinn B2

The small menu includes dishes like Nasi Goreng and Beef Kway Teow, served in generous portions. Tip: ask for spring rolls (not listed on the menu). They make a great starter while you wait. n

urants

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n Buffee-Restoran Bliss

n Fresh

Looking for a quick, easy, and healthy lunch option? Look no further than Bliss. They promise healthy and natural food that is GMO-free. Every day the buffet is filled with over 100 different tasty and healthy dishes, as well as a great selection of dessert. The buffet also includes over 50 gluten-free dishes and 50 lactosefree dishes. Takeaway available too!

Fresh offers an international selection of dishes. Located a little bit outside the city centre, we’ve been told it’s worth the trek. Daily specials are available, as well as a sushi menu.

Mustamäe tee 17, Tallinn

Vilde tee 122, Tallinn

Chinese comfort food at Golden Dragon.

rate? a little bit of spice.

Vapiano renewing itself Text Mikko Savikko, Photos Andrei Chertkov

Of the world’s 120 Vapiano restaurants, two are to be found in Tallinn. The international chain, known for its fast service, has a very interesting payment system. The client receives their own card, where all the purchases are registered. When the client leaves the restaurant, the cashier scans the card and the bill is paid. Another innovation is the device that the client is given to alert them when their pizza is ready. At Vapiano, everything that can be prepared is prepared in

Elegant plating at Chedi.

front of your eyes. Salads, pastas, and pizzas, as well as desserts are all made while you wait. Many clients have chosen their favourites already and do not even need to look at the menu. One of them is the Caesar salad, to which many people add buffalo mozzarella. Every two months, clients can chose between new dishes. And it’s not always food that changes. For example, coffee with lactosefree milk is one of the new things on Vapiano’s menu. Since November, Vapiano has offered its own brand iced tea. n

Food is made fresh, while you wait.

Location Vapiano Solaris Center, Estonia 9, Tallinn B2. Vapiano Forum Center, Hobujaama 10, Tallinn A2.

--------------------Starters: €2.50-10.0 0 Pastas: €5,30-8,50 Pizzas: €5,50-8,50 Deserts: €1,30-3,90 ---------------------

IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII

nightlife

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Photo: Red Emperor

Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

Bars & Pubs

Gay

Clayhills

G-punkt

Drink Baar

X-baar

Hell Hunt

Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town G2.

Karaoke

Mad Murphy’s

Gelsomino Karaoke

Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town G1.

Nimeta Baar

Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar

Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Roseni 13, Tallinn A2.

Protest

Laif Restoran & Karaoke Club

Mere pst 6a, Tallinn A2.

Lai 5, Tallinn Old Town G1

Põrgu

Nightclubs

Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town H1. Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Tallinn on any Pocket – Tips for a Budget Trip

allinn isn't just about flashing the cash and being brash. It's also about being smart with what you have. This month, we take a look at those places you can visit with ten euros in your pocket, and have a great time.

itely influenced by the presence of a hostel down the corridor, but this place is welcoming, and will never let you down in the middle of a Saturday night out with your mates. When you're there, try the vodka laced with Skittles - it's something to behold.

Red Emperor

Hostel Euphoria

Aia 10, Tallinn Old Town G3

Roosikrantsi 4, Tallinn B1

The Red Emperor, which is a bar attached to a hostel that opened in 2012, has a routinely raucous atmosphere, aided by the huge open space, given over to pool tables and a variety of games, which have included a massive Jenga tower. It's a bit of a mission to find this bar, but once you've gone around the back of the Hotel Bern on the edge of the Old Town (close to Kalev Spa) and gone up a flight of stairs, you're in a great place. The clientele is mostly twenty something, and the feel is defin-

Another hostel, but with a distinct atmosphere, very different to that of the Red Emperor. If you're staying at the hostel, you'll find a comfortable, community feel, with guests encouraged to mingle, but under no pressure. There is a reasonably well-stocked fridge of drinks, to pay for which you have to hand cash over to the receptionist. The great thing for visitors to Euphoria is the variety of great live events held in the unpretentious second-floor establishment on one

of the well-lit side streets that feed Vabaduse Väljak. This writer saw powerful and handsome singersongwriter Markus Rafael Nylund performing a full-blooded acoustic set, but more recently there was a Valentine's Day party at the venue, which, unlike an expensive dinner at one of Tallinn's many restaurants, was attended by both lovedup and single people. If you don't have buckets of cash, you need a place where you feel comfortable, and where you're not being fleeced. Euphoria is such a cosy hostel, just far enough away from the drunken hordes of the Old Town, that you have a joyous time without regretting it the next day.

Shimo Wok n' Roll Bar Rataskaevu 9, Tallinn Old Town H1

Shimo has moved. However, the connoisseur’s cheap bar still packs the same party ambiance into its Photo: Red Emperor

Rüütli 4, Tallinn Old Town I1.

The Highlander

Kuninga 1, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Cigar Lounges

Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn Tatari 1, Tallinn B2.

Butterfly Lounge

Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Café Amigo

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2.

Chicago 1933

Club Baila

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

La Casa del Habano

Club Hollywood

Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town H1.

Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Sigari Maja

Club Privé

Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Estonian

Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town I1.

Club Studio

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Karja Kelder

Loung Club Violet

Kochi Ait Tavern

Teater

Kolmas Draakon

Vabank

Seiklusjutte Maalt ja Merelt

Venus

Valli Baar

Late Night Dining

Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town I2. Lootsi 10, Tallinn A3. Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town H2. Tartu mnt 44, Tallinn B3.

Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Live Music

Roseni 9, Tallinn A2.

Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town J1. Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town J1. Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town H3.

Istanbul Kebab

Estonia pst 7, Tallinn B2.

Café Amigo

Loca

Chicago 1933

Söögiplats

Clazz

Taco Express

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2. Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town H3. Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town H2.

Tatari 1, Tallinn B2. Tatari 1, Tallinn B2. Suur-Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town I2.

NYC Piano Bar

Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2.

Rock Café

Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn C4.

Tapper

Pärnu mnt 158g, Tallinn

compact surroundings. In its old Suur-Karja cove, it was the kind of bar thousands of tourists probably walked past without spotting - but those who entered would find cocktails just as good as those of the nearby Clazz, but at half the price, decent snack food for less than €5, and an all-night party attitude. In its new home on the corner of Rataskaevu, Shimo is conveniently located right next to a taxi turning point, making it a fine end to a great night out. You're also within a street's distance from Raekoja Plats and the other tourist marvels of Tallinn's Old Town. You do get the odd drunk local who may not be keen on the presence of foreigners, but the bar is well-run, with Rob, a Canadian who has settled in Tallinn, a bril-

liant and friendly landlord who can also be found DJing on a Saturday night. Go with friends and you'll see what a great place Shimo is. As you can see, there is plenty in Tallinn to interest the budget traveller, whether you are a student, a backpacker, or just someone who likes to have fun with nice people but not pay a premium for the privilege. Some people will tell you that Tallinn is far too expensive in these days of euro-inflation - we're here to tell you this is not the case - if you know where to look. n

. Stuart Garlick is a journalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn. Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.

entertainment

t h e b a lt i c g u i d e ™ m a r c h 2 0 1 5

Tallinn Music Week 25 – 29 March Over 200 artists from 26 different countries will perform in Tallinn’s clubs and bars during the festival. Here are TMW organiser Helen Sildna’s top 5 picks for this year’s festival: Read the full interview with Helen Sildna on page 16. Photo: promo

Photo: promo

2. Vashti 1. All We Are (UK) Bunyan (uk) Photo: promo

The recently released self-titled debut album, under the prestigious record label Domino, has been described as “psychedelic boogie”. The Liverpool trio has said that if you stand upside down

in front of a mirror and say “All We Are” three times, then they will appear and play a song for you. Kino Sõprus 27 March @ 21.30 Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I1-I2.

Photo: promo

The British record label FatCat and the Estonian indie label Õunaviks are putting on one of the most interesting contemporary and new folk evenings of the festival with the FatCat artist from the 1970s who developed a cult following, the godmother of baroque pop and psychedelic music, Vashti Bunyan. House of the Blackheads 27 March @ 23.00 Pikk 26, Tallinn Old Town I1-I2.

3. Odd Hugo (est) The outstanding concert performer Odd Hugo plays blues, indie, folk, rock, soul, and other inexplicable and fresh sounds that a truly their own and “odd”. At the centre of their sound is intense

two vocal harmony, blues torn guitars, dynamic drums, brass, piano, and ukulele. Rock Café 27 March @ 22.45 Tartu mnt. 80d, Tallinn C4. Photo: promo

4. Repetitor (Serbia) The Serbian garage rock cannon Repetitor has made it to the top of the charts back home and won the hearts of critics and rocked out at one of the most important

music festivals in Europe – Sziget Festival. Sinilind 27 March @ 22.00 Müürivahe 50, Tallinn Old Town H3.

5. Tartu Popi ja Roki Instituut (EST) The Tartu sound researcher has been influenced by the history of pop music in different time periods, in particular 1960s pop and rock. Their third LP “Marienbad” was released in December 2014 under the US record label Minty Fresh, which also gave the

start to the Swedish band the Cardigans. Von Krahl 27 March @ 00.45 Rataskaevu 10, Tallinn Old Town H1.

This year’s TMW includes: n 205 artists from 26 different countries n Free concerts in galleries and record stores n Restaurant festival including some of the restaurants n Tallinn Craft Beer Weekend (2728 March) n TMW Talks - exciting discussions n TMW pop-up restaurant n TMW Arts art programme in galleries www.tmw.ee

activities

Family Fun a m e n i C

n ARTIS Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), Tallinn B2.

Tallinn’s art house cinema features independent films, shorts and kids films. n KOSMOS Pärnu mnt. 45, B2

This is Estonia’s first IMAX cinema with three theatres, which show both regular and 3D films.

n SOLARIS CINEMA Estonia pst. 9, Tallinn B2.

n COCA-COLA PLAZA Hobujaama 5, Tallinn A2.

This state of the art cinema plays all of the latest releases.

This 11-screen cinema plays all of the latest releases and has a 3D theatre too.

n SÕPRUS Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town I2. This is

where the true film lovers come to watch art house films, both European and Estonian, but not always with English subtitles.

s d i K r o f s m u Muse Miiamilla Children's Museum

n Estonian Health

Museum

Lai 30, Tallinn Old Town A2

The newly renovated Health Museum is great fun for the whole family. It is filled with health related artefacts, interactive displays and many hands-on exhibits. n Estonian Puppet

on display in the large exhibition room that have been used in theatre productions, as well as puppets that have been imported from around the world. Even the outside of the building has an interactive display window that features ”The Steam Theatre,” which is activated by mobile phone.

Miiamilla Children's Museum

Theatre & NUKU Museum of Puppet Arts

Lai 1/Nunne 8, Tallinn Old Town A1

Koidula 21A, Tallinn A4

Theatre performances are held everyday, but for the tourist, the museum is probably the most interesting attraction. The NUKU museum introduces the visitor to modern techniques using the history of the Puppet Theatre. See how theatre puppets are made professionally. There are puppets

This is truly a museum for kids, especially those between the ages of 3-11. Exhibits change frequently and many are interactive as well. A smaller museum of the same name can also be found in the Kalamaja district (Kotzebue 16, Tallinn A1), which displays modern and antique dolls.

in Tallinn

in the City

t h e b a lt i c g u i d e ™ m a r c h 2 0 1 5

Lu Text Kristina

dr pp, Photos An

13 ei Chertkov

a e S e h t d n a , y g r e n E , s l a Anim

n Energy Discovery

Centre (Energia Keskus)

Põhja pst 29, Tallinn A2

Located in the Kalamaja district, the Energy Discovery Centre has 130 interactive exhibits that present the history of energy, nuclear energy, sound, and optics. The centre is housed in a renovated 100-year-old power plant.

Seaplane Harbour

n Seaplane Harbour

(Lennusadam)

Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn

The Seaplane Harbour or Lennusadam (as it is called in Estonian) is more than just a maritime museum. The largest exhibits are the ships and a submarine. Many of the exhibits are interactive so that for example, visitors can try navigating a ship in the dark Tallinn harbour. There is plenty to see and do for people of all ages and the building itself is worth seeing. n Tallinn Zoo Paldiski mnt.145 / Ehitajate tee 150, Tallinn

There is a lot to see in the large zoo: hundreds of species of animals, everything from mammals to fish to birds. The Zoo is located in the Rocca al Mare district, and you should plan to be there for several hours, especially if you want to see all of the animals. The bus stops at the nearby shopping centre (one of the largest in Estonia). n

s a p S & s k r a p Water Tallinn Zoo

n Viimsi Spa Hotel Randvere tee 11, Viimsi

This spa is located just a little way out of Tallinn and has different pools, including a children’s pool and many different kinds of saunas. n Kalev Spa Hotel &

Waterpark

Aia 18, Tallinn Old Town G3

Located in the heart of Tallinn, this spa hotel has a great water park for children, and saunas for the adults.

Kalev Spa Hotel & Waterpark

shopping

New Shops at Ülemiste

n Department Stores Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. B3. The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store. Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. B2. This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

n Central Shopping

Centres

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2. Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques. Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2. The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2. This modern shopping centre in the Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Free bus from the port. This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world. Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja). A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants. Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65. Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn.

n Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. A3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoe stores.

Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2. One of Tallinn’s newer shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket. Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2. Twenty years ago the site of this shopping centre was nothing but a parking lot, right beside the Hotell Viru. In 2004, it turned into a modern shopping complex with over 100 stores.

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. A3. The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops.

n A bit further out

Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. A3. A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more.

Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57. This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well as a store for everything you might need for your sauna.

t h e b a lt i c g u i d e ™ m a r c h 2 0 1 5

SadaMarket, Kai 5. A2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

Estonia’s largest shopping centre keeps getting better and better. Text Kristina Lupp, Photos Andrei Chertkov

Ülemiste shopping centre opened back in November after extensive renovations and a significant addition. Ülemiste has become your one-stop for shopping, meeting friends, as well as a destination for the whole family. The addition brought an extra 22,000 m² of shop space, totalling 60,000 m² altogether. There are over 50 new shops and service points, a parking house with 400 extra spaces, themed rest areas (there is one that even includes a slide), and children’s play areas. The centre can now boast having Estonia’s largest selection of shoes, with 23 different shops, children’s clothing and toys, and sports apparel. And, if that’s not enough, the selection of places to eat has doubled. The renovations at Ülemiste also brought with it certain brands to Estonia for the first time.

n Sports Direct

Sports Direct is one of the UK’s leading sports retailers, selling sport apparel and accessories. This is the first store in Estonia. Located on the second floor.

The first Sports Direct can be found at Ülemiste.

n H&M Home

H&M has already been in Estonia for a few years now. Estonia’s only H&M Home can be found at Ülemiste, as well as very large H&M clothing section too. H&M Home sells accessories for the kitchen, living room, bedroom, and bathroom. Located on the first floor.

n The Pier

Don’t have time to travel to find some eclectic pieces for your home, don’t worry, The Pier has scoured the globe for unique accessories for the home, like textiles, accessories, furniture, and a wide selection of candles. Located on the first floor.

n Zara

Zara has also been in Estonia for some time now, but their new location at Ülemiste is the largest in Estonia. Located on the first floor.

n Nike Flagship store

Visit the Nike store at Ülemiste for a wide selection of training, running, and casual shoes and clothes. Located on the first floor. n

Location Ülemiste Keskus Suur-Sõjamäe 4, Tallinn C4

n Food Markets Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. A1. Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. B3. Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port. A modern mall just outside of the city centre. Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3. A shopping centre in the west end of the city.

Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. A2. Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a. Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a. Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8. Sadama Turg – Sadama 25. A2.

The Pier

H&M Home

beauty

t h e b a lt i c g u i d e ™ m a r c h 2 0 1 5

15 Text Kristina Lupp, Photos Andrei Chertkov

Spring Beauty

A sneak peek at the season’s beauty trends.

Shiseido Sheer Eye Zone Corrector €31.99 3.8 mL Apply under the eye to cover up dark circles. It not only conceals, but brightens as well.

Guerlain Meteorites €51.99 25 g These handmade beads are the final step to perfect your look. They shine, brighten, and are available in three different tones.

MAC Lip Gloss €17.99 4.8 mL A new colour just in time for spring. This sparkling coral pink lip gloss makes your lips noticeably fuller.

MAC Viva Glam €19.99 3 g This neon coral pink lipstick is a fabulously fresh colour for the upcoming warmer season.

Clinique Smart Custom-Repair Serum €68.99 30 mL / €98.99 50 mL Suitable for all skin types and ages, this smart serum finds the problem and fixes it.

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair €68.99 30 ml / €95.99 50 ml This favourite night cream replenishes and protects against wrinkles. Suitable for all ages and skin types. The formula has been inspired by the latest DNA research.

Giorgio Armani Face Fabric €49.99 40 mL This foundation is light and never gives the feeling of wearing too much makeup.

Yves Saint Laurent Luxurious Mascara for a False Lash Effect €39.99 7.5 mL This mascara gives so much volume and length to your lashes that it seems you are wearing fake ones.

Where to buy: Kaubamaja Ilumaailm 1st floor Gonsiori 2, Tallinn B2

march events

t h e b a lt i c g u i d e ™ m a r c h 2 0 1 5

■ Event and Concert Tickets Tickets to just about any event or concert in Estonia can be purchased on-line at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro. Or, visit one of their central locations at: n Piletilevi: Viru Shopping Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2. n Ticketpro: Solaris Shopping Centre, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn B2. n Piletimaailm (Eesti konsert): Estonia pst 4, Tallinn B2.

Photo: J. Mettik

Orchid Exhibition 7-15 March Tallinn Botanic Gardens, Kloostrimetsa tee 52 March is the month to see many exotic orchids in bloom. They offer strange form and brilliant colours. At the Tallinn Botanic Gardens, the Orchid Exhibition will have different varieties on display, both wild and propagated.

“I am happy that I can do work where I see immediate results”, says Helen Sildna, sitting beside Pipar, the festival’s dog.

The Queen of New Music

Helen Sildna, director of Tallinn Music Week, believes that Estonian bands have their place on the world’s stage.

Photo: Estonian Beekeepers Association

Text Mikko Virta, Photos Andrei Chertkov

Honey Days 7-8 March Flower Pavilion, Pirita tee 26 This is your opportunity to buy quality honey directly from the producers. Organised by the Estonian Beekeepers Association.

Lord of the Dance: Dangerous Games 17 March Saku Suurhall, Tallinn Michael Flatley’s world-renowned dance spectacle comes to Tallinn in March for an unforgettable evening. Spectators can enjoy, not only great dancing but a truly amazing light show with all the latest technology including holograms and the large Holo-gauze 3-D screen.

elen Sildna, 36, is a busy woman. As the brains behind Tallinn Music Week, she falls into a new cultural generation that has learned to work in a globalised world.

The beginning

Sildna worked for years as a concert organiser for BDG, a company that brought big name acts, like Madonna and Metallica to Estonia. When travelling, the young woman came up with a great idea. “I sensed that something was missing in the world of Estonian music. There was no one working to promote Estonian bands overseas”. A festival seemed like the most logical solution to this problem. TMW 2009 saw about one hundred visitors from overseas. “The feedback was staggering. People didn’t know that such great music was being produced in Estonia”.

A music lover at heart

Sildna explains that she has loved music all her life. She divides her work into two parts: before and after Tallinn Music Week. Her work has changed music into more of a business. Sildna wishes she had more time to simply enjoy music. Music is now easily available. Do you think that there is too much music? There can never be too much good music. I think that music lovers live in a fantastic time right now the whole world of music is accessible! But yes, on the other hand, today’s public and client has to be smarter than ever before, to be able to find the best things. But at the same time, I personally like this, that we are moving in the direction where we don’t have any unambiguous superstars, everyone can find their favourites. This is also TMW’s thought - to help people find their new favourites.

Success provides opportunity to others

Over the past few years, many interesting bands have come out of Estonia. Ewert and the Two Dragons have been actively touring the world for the past few years. The legendary record producer Seymour Stein noticed the band and signed them under his Sire Records label. Their new album, "Circles", was released in February. Sildna believes that the next Estonian music stars will come from the ethno-folk world in Viljandi, for example Maarja Nuut, Mari Kalkun, Trad.Attack!, and Curly Strings.

TMW- A Musical Degustation

The main idea of the festival is offer short performances of musical taste sensations to the audience. In one night, the spectator can see many different and interesting bands. There are over 200 performers from 26 different

countries in this year’s programme. In addition, many different record company managers, festival managers and music writers from around the world will be in attendance. In the six-year history of the festival, the top moments were certainly the attendance of Seymour Stein and Pussy Riot. Sildna is particularly proud of the city stages, where bands perform in surprise locations. For example, one year a band played on a bed in the Nordic Hotel and the public came and listened. What is TMW’s recipe for success? “To do what we do and do it well. To organise the kind of festival that I would like to attend”. The Guardian and Observer chose Tallinn Music Week as one of five of the world’s best music festivals. This already shows that Sildna is on the right track. n

walking tour

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The lookout tower in the parking lot offers a nice view of the cape.

The Village by the Sea

Puise is in fact a peninsula that extends out of Matsalu towards Muhu. Text Mikko Virta, Photos Andrei Chertkov

Puise is located 15 km from Muhu. In the 20th century, the residents of Muhu and Saaremaa could cross over the ice to Puise and then continue on from there to Haapsalu and Tallinn. Kumari and Papilaid, two small islands where there was once a pub on each, facilitated the journey. In the autumn of 1944, a group of Estonians fleeing to Sweden gathered in Puise. The Soviet troops were approaching from inland at the same time. Puise was at the time, under the leadership of Otto Tief. The ship en route from Sweden arrived late, so many went back inland. During the Soviet period, Puise was a port where locally caught fish were frozen and sent to, among other places, Moscow. Fish is still caught today and seven different fishing companies use the port of Puise. Thanks to its geographical location, the tip of the cape is an excellent place for bird watching. In May, flocks of arctic water birds fly to the beach, and the seashore is

50 km

Tallinn

oo oooo Haapsalu

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Risti

Puise

Märjamaa

Virtsu

bustling with life before their journey continues on to Siberia. In the last few years, the tourism industry has begun to flourish. Lunches can be organised for groups and the green towers along the seaside can be rented as accommodation. When visiting the area, be sure to mind the dogs while admiring the gardens from afar. n

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Location Puise is located in Ridala County, which can be reached by turning towards Puise from the Haapsalu-Lihula highway.

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The best time to visit Puise is in the spring.

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museum

t h e b a lt i c g u i d e ™ m a r c h 2 0 1 5

Porcelain and Faience at the Tallinn City Museum Situated in one of the oldest buildings in Tallinn’s Old Town, the Tallinn City Museum has opened their porcelain and faience depository to the public. The collection features an excellent assortment of Estonian porcelain, as well as pieces from Germany, Russia, the Nordics, central and western Europe, and from as far away as China and Japan. Most of the dishes in the collection come

from tableware sets that have been used in Tallinn homes. The depository has technically been open to the public since the 1960s, but one needed to register to look at the collection during the Soviet period. Renovations began about five years ago to properly organise and clean the dishes. The depository holds about 2700 pieces, 2000 of which are on display. The most noteworthy collection is the 18th century Carl Chris-

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum)

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri museum)

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum)

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum)

Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu)

Text Kristina Lupp, Photos Andrei Chertkov

The collection not only holds dishes, but fireplace tiles as well.

tian Fick Faience Manufactory collection (1772-1782). There are now about 300 pieces that remain in the world, 37 of which can be seen in the depository. n

Location Tallinn City Museum Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town G2 Open We-Su 12.00-17.30 Admission €2 (or €1.50 with a ticket to the museum)

Museums & Galleries TALLINN n Museums Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum) Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, 1G. www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.ajaloomuuseum.ee 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace

Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, F2. www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We 10-17, Th 10-19, Fri-Su 10-17

Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum) Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, I2. www.tmm.ee. 1.09-31.05 May, Tu-Sa 10-18 1.06-31.08, Mo-Sa 10-18

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages

Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, A5. www.ajaloomuuseum.ee We-Su 10–17

Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, J1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/ 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum)

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda)

Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, D3. www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18

L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn B4. www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18

Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, G3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17 Winter by appointment only.

Ahtri 2, Tallinn, A2. www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18

Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, G3. www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum)

n Art Museums &

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum)

Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum)

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum)

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum)

Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, B1. www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18

Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, H2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30

Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, B4. www.mikkelimuuseum.ee Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17 July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn B2. http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/ basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU) Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, G1. www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum)

Galleries

Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1. www.adamson-eric.ee We-Su 11–18

Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, A4. www.kadriorumuuseum.ee Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17 May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum)

Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, B5. www.kumu.ee Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18 May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum)

Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, I1. www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17 Ticket office closes 16.30

getting around

tthhee bbaalltti icc gguui iddee ™™ m maarrcchh 22001155

19 Ticket Information

PUBLIC TRANSPORT Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free. Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader. Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee

KOPLI

1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati

Maleva Maleva

Sirbi

Sitsi

Lõime

Angerja

Madala

KALAMAJA

PÕHJA-TALLINN

From the driver

Ehte Volta

Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5 6 7

Nisu

Trams

Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Balti jaam – Keskuse Balti jaam – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Väike-Õismäe Balti jaam – Väike- Õismäe

1 2 3 4

Balti jaam Telliskivi

Kadriorg – Kopli Ülemiste– Kopli Kadriorg – Tondi Ülemiste – Tondi

Kolde puiestee Ädala Lille

Pirni

Zoo

Ülase Taksopark

Hipodroom

Mooni Koskla

Välja

Haabersti

UUS-MAAILM

Hobujaama

VEERENNI

Tallinna Ülikool

L. Koidula

1, 3

VÄIKE-ÕISMÄE 7 6 Väike- ÕISMÄE

Õismäe PR

VäikeÕismäe

Autobussijaam Lubja Bus Station

Vineeri

Majaka

ÜLEMISTE

Sikupilli Majaka põik

2, 4

Pae VäikePaala

Airport

Linnu tee

Aiandi

TONDI

Siili

A. H. Tammsaare tee

1 3 5

Kaja

Szolnok

Tondi

3, 4

MUSTAMÄE

Lepistiku

Akadeemia tee KESKUSE Männi Vambola Mustamäe Liivaku Keskuse 9 4 Raja Keemia Ehitajate tee

n 1 hour ticket n 1 day (24h) n 3 days (72h) n 5 days (120h) n 30 days

€1.10 €3 €5 €6 €23

n from the driver n from kiosks n from post offices n online www.pilet.ee (Top up your smartcard with MasterCard or Visa)

TallinnVäike

Sääse

Kullerkupu

Ülemiste

E-tickets

Where to buy

Löwenruh

Nurmenuku

Mustamäe

KADRIORG

Keskturg

KRISTIINE

Karikakra

KADRIORG

Paberi

Tedre

Sinilille

n single ticket €1.60 n student ticket €0.80 Try to have exact change for the driver. Cards are not accepted. The ticket is valid for one journey only on that specific vehicle. Discounts are only available to ISIC cardholders.

J. Poska Mere pst

Htl. Tallinn OLD Viru 6 TOWN Htl. Tallinn 1 Tehnika Tõnis3 Estonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi Vabaduse soni MAJA väljak Tõnismägi Koidu Kosmos Koidu

Tihase

Marja

Sinilille

Taksopark Koskla

Linnahall Port

4 7 5

Balti jaam

Kelmiküla

Ristiku Sõle

Hipodroom

Humala

Looga Mustjõe

HAABERSTI

Põhja pst

The Smartcard or Ühiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet. ee. A €2 deposit is needed to purchase the Smartcard. If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the beginning of each journey.

Free

JÄRVE

n preschool children n adult travelling with children 3 years and under n holders of a validated Tallinn Card

TALLINN CITY TOUR Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

PIRITA

6-118-000

11-800 (+€0.74 / min)

www.pilet.ee, info@pilet.ee

LASNAMÄE KOPLI port

KALAMAJA ROCCA AL MARE

PELGULINN

OLD TOWN

KADRIORG

MERIMETSA VEERENNI

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets 19€ www.citytour.ee

Accepted in nearly 100 locations, the Tallinn Card gives you free entrance and discounts.

Tallinn Card is available at: Tallinn

Tourist Information Kiosks, Kullassepa 4/ Niguliste 2, from A and D terminals at the Port of Tallinn, as well as in many Tallinn hotels. www.tallinncard.ee.

■ Useful Phrases please...................................................... palun thank you.............................................. aitäh, tänan excuse me............................................. vabandage hello........................................................ tere, tervist good morning..................................... tere hommikust good day............................................... tere päevast good evening...................................... tere õhtust good night............................................ head ööd goodbye................................................ nägemist, head aega all the best............................................ kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.................................. head reisi bon appetite........................................ jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health....................... terviseks

How much does this cost?.............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?................................... kas teil on? on teil? where is…............................................. kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean?...................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal)................... kuidas läheb? not bad................................................... pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you........... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you................... oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it?.................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian... mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English?...................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German?............ /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

transport TALLINN

maarrcchh 22001155 tthhee bbaalltti icc gguui iddee ™™ m Photo: Margus Johanson

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

n By bus:

■ Phone calls

Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

■ Free WiFi Ye s , t h a t ’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

■ Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE 110 EMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h) ■ Taxis

From the bus station to the city: n tram no. 2 n bus no. 17, no. 23

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: n Blood alcohol level must be zero. n Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists. n The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways. n All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night. n In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. n Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid penalty.

TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

Car Hire You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at the Tallinn Airport: n Budget – www.budget.ee n Europcar – www.europcar.ee n Hertz – www.hertz.ee n National – www.europcar.ee n Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

Parking Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

n By sea:

Parking in Tallinn can be confusing. There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots. The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time – placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle. This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.

CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN:

0,26€ / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fr 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee. n n n n

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

n By train: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

DOWNTOWN / SÜDALINN:

0,58€ / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fi 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

OLD TOWN / VANALINN:

1,15€ / 15 minutes Paid parking around the clock Parking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn. For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parkingin-Tallinn

n Bt air: Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K FAST CLASS By Copterline – www.copterline.ee Travel between Tallinn and Helsinki city centres by helicopter.

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Kalasadama A2 Kanuti A2 Kappeli C4 Karu A3 Katusepapi C4 Kauka B2 Kauna C2 Kaupmehe B2 Keldrimäe B3 Kentmanni B2 Kevade B1 Killustiku B5 Kivimurru A4-B4 Kodu C2 Kohtu A1 Koidu B1 Koidula A4 Köleri A4 Kollane B3 Komeedi C1 Kooli A2 Kopli A1 Kotka C1 Kotzebue A1 Kreutzwaldi B3 Kristiina C1 Kuhlbarsi B3 Kunderi B3 Kuninga A2 Laagna tee B4 Laboratoorimi A2

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VILJANDI

Maakonna keskus

Haldusjaotus on seisuga 01.04. 2007

Tugimaantee Kõvakattega maantee

Territoriaalmere piir

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Maakonna piir Riigipiir, kontrolljoon

VILJANDI

Maakonna keskus

Haldusjaotus on seisuga 01.04. 2007

Tartu rahu piir Territoriaalmere piir

BRASSERIE-RESTAURANT TELETORN Chef de Cuisine

CAFE . PIZZA . RESTAURANT . SUMMER GARDEN

Benvenuto! Al Bastione is an Italian pizzeria and grill located in Tallinn’s Old Town, where pizza is prepared right before your eyes in a stone oven, as well as different dishes on the grill.

Priit Toomits and his kitchen team combine the elements of Japanese freshness and Asian sultriness with French traditions and excellent Estonian ingredients. Welcome to the highest brasserie-restaurant in Northern Europe!

Please book ahead! Tel. +372 5815 0020

NEW!

Exclusive dinner with surprises 10.03 and 14.04

A´la carte menu

A café is located on the first floor where you can enjoy Al Bastione Suveaed French desserts like macaroons and cardamom pastries and don’t forget about the wide variety of coffee either. A café is located on the first floor where you can enjoy French desserts like macaroons and cardamom pastries, and don’t forget about the wide variety of coffee either. B R A SS E R I E & R ESTAU R A N T

Restaurant Al Bastione | Viru 23, Tallinn Info and reservations : info@albastione.ee or +372 666 0005

Read articles online:

Brasserie & Restaurant Teletorn Open daily: 10 - 23 Kloostrimetsa tee 58a, Tallinn Tel +372 5815 0020 E-mail: restoran@teletorn.ee www.teletorn.ee/restoran

How to get here By bus: 34a, 38 Viru Keskus – Teletorn City Sightseeing Tallinn, green line Mere pst – Teletorn Takso24 +372 640 8927

MAD MURPHY ’S

Opened Monday-Thursday 10:00 - 02:00, Friday -Saturday 10:00 - 04:00, Sunday 11:00- 02:00

irish pub & grill

• Largest whisky selection in Estonia • Live music & karaoke • Located in the old town, overlooking the Raekoja plats (Town Hall Square) Mündi 2, Tallinna Phone: +372 6 011 070 info@madmurphys.ee

www.madmurphys.ee

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