The Baltic Guide ENG January 2016 by The Baltic Guide

ENGLISH EDITION

Your free guide to Estonia

J A N U A R Y 2 0 16

www.balticguide.ee

what The best things where to seedoandin when Estonia

Café culture Shopping: keep warm with a great coat Queen for a day at Olde Hansa

Winter fun in Tallinn Nightlife – Places to Stay, Places to Crash

Första stället i Tallinn när man kommer sjövägen och sista när man beger sig till havs! The ﬁrst place to come when You arrive and the last place to visit before leaving!

Massor av härliga smakupplevelser!

Levande musik varje dag/ Live music every day 12-15

Taste one of our delicious dishes! Öppet/Open: varje dag/every day 8-19.

Köket öppet från kl/ The kitchen open from 8. Sadamarket Shopping Centrum 1a vån/1st ﬂoor, 100m från A och B-terminalerna/100m from A and B terminals. Sadama 8/Kai 5 (opposite the Sadamaturg), Tallinn, tel. +372 661 4605, info@seitsemerd.ee, www.seitsemerd.ee

Authentic Bavarian Oktoberfest beer. Come and taste it.

editorial

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 6

Beating the winter blues

he past few winters in Estonia have been more of a grey season. This year, everyone is hoping for a little bit more snow, or any snow really. Snow or no snow, one needs a winter survival plan to beat the short days while we wait for warmer and brighter weather. The holidays were spent eating and drinking indoors, so January should be spent staying active outdoors. Estonians love cross-country skiing. In fact, they train all year long, using roller skates in summer. We have

a guide to winter activities in and near Tallinn to help you to also stay active. January is a quiet month in Tallinn, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. If you arrive near the beginning of the month, you can still catch the Christmas market in Town Hall Square. Feel like staying indoors? Relax at a spa, or enjoy some of the fine cuisine Tallinn has to offer. All this and more, you will find in these pages. Happy travels!

Contents

Kristina Lupp Editor-in-chief

3 Editorial

January Highlights

restaurants

01 HURTS SEDUCES TALLINN

4-5 Restaurants: Olde Hansa Vana Wiipuri Café culture in Tallinn Restaurant News

True Hurts fans in Tallinn will gather for the premier of the new Surrender album 10 March at the Saku Suurhall. Tickets are on sale at Piletilevi starting from €34.

02 ACTUAL DOC FILMS Photo: Press

The Helsinki Docpoint Festival comes to Tallinn from 27-31 January. The programme includes current and society-critical documentary films.

03 MUSTONEN’S BAROQUE FESTIVAL MustonenFest brings some of the top performers to Estonia from 29 January to 6 February to perform in Tallinn, Tartu, Pärnu, and Jõhvi. The festival culminates with a gala concert on 6 february at the Estonia Concert Hall where soprano Keren Hadar and clarinet player Giora Fiedmas, both from Israel, will perform.

04 SAUNA MARATHON Already in its seventh year, the annual Sauna Marathon will take place 6 February in the Otepää area. The goal of the competition is to visit as many saunas as possible over the course of six hours.

05 SLEDGING AT THE OPEN AIR MUSEUM Shrove Tuesday is celebrated 7 February at the Estonian Open Air Museum as is tradition with a day of sleding. The programme also includes typical foods and traditional games. On Shrove Tuesday (9 February), a 70s style ski party will take place.

shopping 6 Beauty 8–9 Shopping 10 Nightlife 12–13, 14 family fun 15 Events 16-17 Sightseeing 19 Getting Around 20 Transport 21-22 Maps and Information

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Managing Director: Kirli Lembinen Editor-in-Chief: Kristina Lupp kristina@balticguide.ee Contributors: Stuart Garlick Design: Evelin Linholm Photography: Andrei Chertkov Printing House: AS Kroonpress

O 'Malleys, Odessa Restaurant, Seitse Merd Restaurant, Troika Restaurant, Turg Restaurant, Waynes Coffee PÄRNU Astra Hotel, Legend Hotel, Pärnu Visitor's Centre, Strand Hotel, Sanatorium Tervis, Tervise Paradiis, TRK Viiking, Koidulapark Hotel, Pärnu Airport TARTU Dorpat Hotel, London Hotel, Pallas Hotel, Tartu Visitor's Centre, Tartu Airport, Turu Linna City Information Point WESTERN ESTONIA Pärnu Yacht Club, Arensburg Boutique Hotel, Fra Mare Thalasso Spa, Haapsalu Tourist Information, Hiiumaa Tourist Information, Johan Spa Hotel, Kuressaare Airport, Kuressaare Tourist Information, Promenaadi Hotel Haapsalu, Meri Spa Hotel, Rüütli Spa Hotel EASTERN ESTONIA Jõhvi Tourist Information, Meresuu Spa, Narva Tourist Information, Rakvere Tourist Information, Saka Cliff Hotel & Spa, Toila Sanatorium, Vihula Manor, Villa Theresa, Sagadi Manor SWEDEN EAS Stockholm, Estonian House Göteborg, Estonian Air Stockholm,Tallink Mariehamn, Tallink Stockholm RIGA Cinnamon Sally Backpackers Hostel, Friendly Fun Franks Backpackers Hostel, The Blue Cow Backpackers Hostel, The Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel

JANUARY 2016

PORTS B-Terminal, D-Terminal, M/L Liverpool Seaways Paldiski-Kapellskär-Paldiski HOTELS Barons Hotel, Bern Hotel, Braavo Hotel, City Portus Hotel, My City Hotel, Domina Ilmarine Hotel, Ecoland Hotel, Economi Hotel, Euroopa Hotel, Go Hotel Schnelli, Imperial Hotel, Kalev Spa Hotel, Kreutzwald Hotel Tallinn, L'Ermitage Hotel, Meriton Grand Conference & Spa Hotel, Metropol Hotel, Nordic Forum Hotel, Old House Hostel, Old Town Maestro Hotel, Oru Hotel, Palace Hotel, Park Inn Central Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Tallinn, Radisson Blu Hotel Olümpia, Reval Park Hotel Tallinn, Savoy Hotel, Scandic St. Barbara Hotel, Sokos Hotel Viru, St. Olav Hotel, Susi Hotel, Swissotel, Tähetorni Hotel, Tallink Express Hotel, Tatari 53 Hotel, Telegraaf Hotel, Ülemiste Hotel, Vana Wiru Hotel, Viimsi Spa Hotel, Von Stackelberg Hotel Tallinn OTHER TV Tower, Hansabuss Business Line, Swedish Embassy, Sadama Market, Stockmann Info, Tallinn Airport, Estonian Air Europe-Tallinn routes, Tallinn Tourist Information, Citytour Buses, Hansabuss Airport, Merekeskus, Lootsi keskus, Puumedi Group OÜ RESTAURANTS Pirita Yacht Club, Arizona, Beerhouse, Clazz, Molly Malones,

restau

The Good Old Days Interwar nostalgia at Wana Wiipuri restaurant.

Russian TEXT JUKKA ARPONEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

At first glance the Russian and Kar-

jala themed restaurant seems a little out of left field, but the two places have more in common than you might think. Both saw much change between the two world wars. Wana Wiipuri looks at the better times. Located in the Old Town in a cellar on Pikk street, the medieval interior is well-suited to the restaurant’s theme. The music playing in the background is old Finnish dance music.

The wine list has ample selection to go with any dish.

When you first sit down, everyone is offered a shot of house schnapps. It’s a great way to start the evening, thoughnot every-

one has to. The menu of course matches the theme. The menu has one vegetarian option called Vege. It is tasty and composed of different textures, marinated vegetables, cheese, and baked beetroot. It is big enough to be a main course. We also tried the onion soup and vorschmack, which were particularly good. For the main course, we ate beef tartar and fried cod. The tartar was served in a classical way and the taste was good. The cod was served on a bed of rice with salad and tartare sauce, as well as a few slices of lemon. The fish was cooked well and the entire dish was a simple favourite. The wine list has ample selection to go with any dish and any taste. We had a bottle of Ogier Cotes du Rhone (29) and it went

well with all of our dishes. The wine list had many other choices ranging from 27-45. The service was good and the atmosphere relaxed. It’s a great place to spend a cold winter’s evening and warm up. ■

Location Restoran Wana Wiipuri, Pikk 33, Tallinn Old Town g2

--------------------Appetisers €4.90–15.90 Mains €8.60–19.90 Desserts €4.20–5.90 ---------------------

IIII I IIII I I IIIII I II I II I I

Café Culture Warm up with a hot drink in one of Tallinn’s many cafés. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Along Pikk Street is the Anneli Viik Chocolate Café. All of the

On a cold January day, there’s noth-

truffles are made using fine Belgian chocolate, but handcrafted in Estonia. Try the Madame Butterfly truffle made with Bailey’s Irish Cream, or The Swan truffle, infused with whiskey. Reval Café is chain of coffee shops and has a few locations in the Old Town. Their menu offers light meals, and the display is always filled with appetising cakes and pastries. Located right off the Town Hall Square, Kehrwieder must be one of Tallinn’s cosiest cafés. The low ceilings and the dim lighting add to this ambiance. Delicious cakes are on display, and the coffee is some of the best in town. Across the street you can smell the coffee roasting in the Kehrwieder roastery. Maiasmokk has great pastries and an even better interior. The rooms have been used as a café for almost 200 years! Tables are small like in old time Parisian cafés. The walls are covered with wood and mirrors, originating from its heyday when the place was called Stude. Pastries and freshly made salads line the display, and hot meals are available to order from the small kitchen.

ing better than finding a warm place to sit with great cup of coffee. Here is a quick look at some of the cafés that can be found in the Old Town. Caffeine is rather quickly growing chain of coffee bars in Tallinn and Tartu. Their modern and stylish interior is the perfect place to enjoy a great cup of coffee, maybe a pastry, and relax. Saiakang is one of the best people watching spots in town. With an entire window as a wall facing onto the narrow Saiakang passage, sip on a coffee while enjoying free WiFi, and watch the people the go by. Pastries and freshly made salads line the display, and hot meals are available to order from the small kitchen. Last year a really cool little coffee shop Coffee Bar 10133 opened up one of the smallest shops in town. With little more than a couple of seats (this place is really more of a takeaway), size doesn’t matter when ordering a cup of great coffee. There is also a small selection of pastries to choose from.

Caffeine is a small chain of coffee shops in Tallinn.

Coffee Bar 10133 is perhaps one of the smallest cafés in Tallinn.

Excellent coffee and delicious pastries are what’s on the menu at August. Opened earlier this year, the mix of modern and retro make this a cool spot to visit in the Old Town. Rukis, attached to the Estonian restaurant Farm offers a cosy atmosphere with a huge selection of cakes and pastries baked fresh daily. ■

Location Reval Café (Old Town locations) Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town h3 Vene 1, Tallinn Old Town h2 Kehrwieder Saiakang 1, Tallinn Old Town h2 Maiasmokk Pikk 16, Tallinn Old Town g2 Saiakang Saiakang 3, Tallinn Old Town g2 Caffeine Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town h3 Harju 3, Tallinn Old Town i1 Mündi 3, Tallinn Old Town h2 Coffee Bar 10133 Suurtüki 2, Tallinn Old Town a2 Anneli Viik Chocolate Café Pikk 30, Tallinn Old Town g2 August Väike-Karja 5, Tallinn Old Town i2 Rukis Viru 13, Tallinn Old Town h3

urants

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In November 2015 there were 145 newly registered beers from small brewers.

RESTAURANT NEWS

A medieval evening for ladies only.

A Queen for a Day Olde Hansa invites you to experience the customs and traditions of medieval women. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

In medieval times, getting dressed

was a ritual. The type of dress and headpiece you wore signified your background and your status in society. For example, the longer your sleeves or the more material used in a gown were a sign of wealth. This is how the evening starts. You are led upstairs to the very top floor of Olde Hansa where your hostess for the evening helps you choose the right dress. She helps you put it on along with the headpiece, which can be a bit tricky if you’ve never worn medieval headdress before! You are then led back downstairs to the dining room with your group where you wash your hands in a basin on the stairs and then seated at the table. The dresses are long, but we are told never to show our ankles. This makes the stairs are a bit tricky, but certainly adds to the authenticity of the experience.

There seems to be a boom of

small breweries in Estonian restaurants and shops. In November 2015 there were 145 newly registered beers from small brewers. In 2014 there were 95 and in 2013, only 18. Last year, the Finnish brewer Sori Brewing took up shop in Estonia and not have 14 registered products. Manna la Roosa, in Tallinn’s city centre has just opened an Asian restaurant on their second floor called Tai Boh. Mains range from 13-26. The most expensive dish is the half duck. A 200 gramme special Kobe beef filet is 91. There are two tasting menus for 40 and 50 respectively. The restaurant is closed on Mondays. In Kopli, in the Standardi house, the restaurant Kamahouse has shortened its name to Kama. With the change in ownership, the restaurant will still maintain its multifunctional space, offering breakfast, lunch and a la carte dishes, as well as putting on different events. Kama opens weekdays at 10.00 and 11.00 at weekends. The closest tram stop is Angerja. There seems to be something new (wise) at Telliskivi Crea-

Kama is open weekdays and weekends.

tive City almost every month. The speciality beer bar Pudel Baar will be expanding. Next to it, the food truck Bueno Gourmet offers Latin American style sandwiches. ■

Location Tai Boh, Vana-Viru 15, Tallinn b2. Kama, Kopli 25, Tallinn. Pudel Baar and Bueno Gourmet, Telliskivi 60A, Tallinn a1.

The evening continues with per-

fume-making and then a filling meal. Choosing between five different scented essential oils like peppermint and ginger, we are told how to mix the scents. “Less is more in this case”, our hostess says because the scents become stronger as the oil infuses. And of course you can take the perfume home with you in a hand blown medieval glass bottle. When you sit at the table you are served a shot of berry schnapps. The meal is a rich selection of appetisers

with different dips and spreads, cured and salted meat and fish, pickled vegetables and two types of rustic house made bread. Don’t worry, you won’t go home hungry. The smooth chicken liver pate pairs beautifully with the red onion jam. A choice of red or white wine is also served. For those that wish, you can hire a photographer to take pictures throughout the even-

ing. Olde Hansa is candlelit, so a professional photograph or two isn’t such a bad idea. The cost is 35 per person and can be organised for groups of six or more people. ■

Location Olde Hansa, Vana turg 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

The decor at Tai Boh is worth a trip itself.

beauty ■ Estonia’s first Thai eco-cosmetics shop opens in Solaris

Photo: Lemongrass

Lemongrass House specialises in organic and ecological spa products and eco-cosmetics. Located on the first floor of the Solaris Shopping Centre, you will find products for the whole family including soaps, shampoos, shower gels, face and body creams, massage oils, and even a large selection of herbal teas. Lemongrass House is a family owned company that was established in 1996 in Thailand. Their products are now on sale in over 30 countries worldwide. All products are made using natural ingredients. Lemongrass House, Solaris, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn b2

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 6

■ Perfume for your Hair Herra Protect Hair Perfume is a protective hair perfume suitable for all kinds of hair types. It protects hair from air pollution, UV rays, and dry air. It doesn’t contain any oils or alcohol. Herra has just released two new products - Oud Inspired and Oud Intense. Oud Inspired has hints of floral notes with a light woody smell. It contains patchouli, wood, as well as other aromas like rose, lavender, and gerbera. Freshness is added by mandarin and lemon. Oud Intense is a rich and warm scent. It contains notes of cedar and patchouli, with a touch of softness added by rose and jasmine. Both hair perfumes are available from I.L.U stores throughout Estonia, as well as Kaubamaja in Tallinn, Stockmann, and Rosena online shop.

Gourmet Luxury Six new saunas and a top Estonian restaurant are just two reasons to visit Laulasmaa Spa this winter. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS LAULASMAA SPA

For anyone visiting Estonia, t ime

spent in a sauna is a must. This past October, Laulasmaa underwent a huge renovation of their sauna centre, adding six new saunas and generally improving the facilities, making them bigger and more luxurious.

Laulasmaa has steam, waterless, salt, and a Finnish sauna, as well as a sanarium and a traditional wood-burning sauna. The Pine Cone Sauna, with temperatures reaching up 95 C, yes celsius, has medium humidity. This is the kind of sauna where you should cool down in cold water between sessions. Saunas like the Aroma

Relax and unwind with a weekend at Laulasmaa Spa.

Sauna and the Maritime Aroma Sauna are slightly cooler and good for improving the immune system and aiding with respiratory problems. While you can read about all of the saunas on their website www.laulasmaa. ee, classic is, by far, the outdoor sauna where once again the medium humidity sauna is heated to 90C and then you

A visit to a sauna when in Estonia is a must.

can cool off in the outdoor pool afterwards. Laulasmaa Spa is a multipurpose destination - a wellness spa, hotel, and conference centre. Their restaurant, Wicca, has been chosen among Estonia’s 50 Best Restaurants for the fourth year in a row. Award-winning head chef Angelica Udeküll takes care that all the products

are fresh and of local origin. Set among pine forests, it’s a wonderful retreat any time of year. The water and sauna centre is open daily from 07.00-22.00. ■

Location Laulasmaa Spa & Conference Centre Puhkekodu 4, Laulasmaa, Keila parish

Wicca, has been chosen among Estonia’s 50 Best Restaurants for the fourth year in a row.

Exercise and Relaxation Who says you can’t have it all? Swimitation offers water therapy, water fitness and simple enjoyment. a personal trainer or physiotherapist, or on your own, watching the movement on the screen above you. A workout lasts one hour, 15 minutes of which are meant for relaxation.

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Let’s just say Swimitation is unlike

any other exercise you’ve ever done. You can exercise in private, enjoy hydrotherapy, and best of all, just relax. This new bath is 100 an Estonian invention, where its inventors decided it was time to invent a form of exercise, especially for women where they could feel comfortable with a private trainer or even doing exercises on their own. How does it work? Think of it like aquafit in your own private bath, but also while laying down. The bath has an adjustable backrest where you lie back and are either guided through your workout by

Swimitation has many benefits. First of all, it’s low-impact,

This new bath is 100% an Estonian invention.

meaning it helps strengthen your back, hips, and shoulders without straining them any more. It can help with fatigue, promote better circulation, better kidney health, strengthen the nervous system, and promote heart, cardiovascular, and lung health. Best of all, it’s a real stress-reliever. The exercises have been specially developed by Finnish physiotherapist Marko Kantaneva. He is internationally

known as the key developer of Nordic Walking. The shape of the bath is developed from the shape of a snow angel, allowing you to move while reclined. In addition to the Swimitation bath, visitors can also enjoy the infrared sauna, known to help with weight loss, as well as dry salt therapy. Full packages can be found on their website www. swimitationspa.com. More information about the bath can be found on the website www.swimitation.com and the bath can be bought for home use as well. ■

Location Swimitation Telliskivi 60, ON-building N-part, 2nd floor, Tallinn

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shop ■ Department

Stores Stockmann, Liivalaia 53. b3 The Tallinn branch of Finland’s favourite department store. Tallinna Kaubamaja, Gonsiori 2. b2 This Estonian department store has been in business since 1960 and is now attached to the Viru Shopping Centre.

■ Central Shopping

Centres

Keep warm with a great fur.

Rocca al Mare, Paldiski mnt 102. Free bus from the port. This massive centre was completed in 1998 and resembles a large mall in North America. It is over 54,000 square metres in size and houses 170 shops – everything from food to fashion, Marks & Spencer to a children’s play world. Sikupilli Keskus, Tartu mnt 87. Busses 2, 15 and 54 (Sossimägi), Trams 2 and 4 (Lubja). A small shopping centre located near the airport that houses fashion outlets, a few electronics shops, and restaurants.

Foorum, Narva mnt 5. B2 Almost opposite the Viru Shopping Centre, Foorum houses a promenade of stylish boutiques. Postimaja Shopping Centre, Narva mnt 1. B2 The newest shopping centre in Tallinn houses an H&M. Rotermanni keskus, Rotermanni 8. B2 This modern shopping centre in the Rotermanni district houses gourmet food shops, a Scandinavian furniture store, and many international clothing brands.

Ülemiste, Suur-Sõjamäe 4. Buses 2, 7, 15, 65. Located close to the airport, this two-level shopping centre is one of the biggest in Tallinn. Magistrali Keskus, Sõpruse puiestee 201/203, Tallinn

■ Near the port: Lootsi Keskus, Lootsi 8. a3 This shopping centre houses a food store, large liquor store, and top brand clothing and shoe stores.

Viru Keskus, Viru Väljak 4. B2. This modern shopping centre houses top name designer stores, great cafés and restaurants, as well as a large bookstore.

■ A bit further out Järve Keskus, Pärnu mnt 238. Buses 5, 18, 32, 36, 57. This shopping centre has quite a few furniture shops, as well as a store for everything you might need for your sauna.

Merekeskus, Mere pst 10. a3 The Merekeskus is the oldest shopping centre in the area. The two-level complex houses many clothing stores and souvenir shops.

Photo: Fureality

Solaris, Estonia pst 9. B2 One of Tallinn’s newer shopping centres that houses a cinema, numerous restaurants, as well as a top-end supermarket.

Norde Centrum, Lootsi 7. a3 A medium sized shopping centre with a sports apparel shop, grocery store, and more. SadaMarket, Kai 5. a2 This has the appearance of a market, with many small stalls and shops.

■ Food Markets Baltijaam (Train Station) – Kopli 1. a1 Keskturg (Central Market) – Keldrimäe 9. b3 Kristiine Keskus, Endla 45. Free bus from the port. A modern mall just outside of the city centre.

Kalaturg (Fish Market) – Kalaranna 1. a2

Mustikas keskus, A.H.Tammsaare tee 116. Trolleys 1, 2 and 3. A shopping centre in the west end of the city.

Mustamäe Market – E. Vilde tee 75a.

Lasnamäe Market – Punane 48a.

Nõmme Market – Turu plats 8. Sadama Turg – Sadama 25. a2 There are furs for every style and budget.

pping

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 6

Fur Shopping in Tallinn How to choose a good quality coat or accessory. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

First you must determine what you want. Fur coats exists for warmth, style, and practicality. Do you want a fashion statement or an investment? In northern countries we wear furs for warmth above style, thought do not think for one second style doesn’t matter either. Decide on your colour before you go shopping. This will help narrow the search. The length of the coat will also narrow your search. Go with a full-length fur coat if you want to wear it to formal occasions. A three-quarter length coat will be a trendy coat capable of being worn both casually and formally. A shorter, snugger coat or jacket is great for outdoor activities. Once you have decided what

you want, ask yourself what is your budget. Different furs have different price tags. It used to be that fur was only for the rich, but now anyone can wear it. They are made in every price range. No matter what the budget, there is something for everyone.

The fur coat is no longer your grandmother’s fur coat. While you can certainly still find the floor length coat, more modern cuts are still available. There are jackets with zippers and hoods. Not wanting to go the the full distance, even a bit of fur trim can accent many different outfits. Vests and ponchos can make a statement. Tallinn’s Old Town has a few reliable fur shops that are more than happy to answer your questions. You will find different types of furs and while there may be no need to buy a full length coat, a hat or fur-trimmed gloves can make a great souvenir. ■

Viuu Optika Salong Viuu is a unique eyeglass store

in the trendy Telliskivi area in the suburb of Tallinn. If you are looking for truly great pair of glass, ones that really stand out, Viuu is the place to go. The helpful staff will help you find the right pair. The Viuu collection is made up many top

name brands including Fendi, Dior, Ray Ban, Andy Wolf, Cesare Paciotti, and more. ■

Location Telliskivi 60, Tallinn

When in doubt, ask for help.

New Handicraft store in Tallinn

Contemporary styles at one of Tallinn's Old Town shops.

The Estonian Folk Art and Craft Union opened a new shop in

Stop in and have a look for a unique souvenir. ■

Tallinn’s Old Town. The Union aims to preserve and develop Estonian handicraft traditions. At the shop national handicrafts are on sale from local craftsmen.

Location Vene 12, Tallinn h2

nightlife

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 6

Protest is a no-frills bar that has been a fixture of Rotermann since the beginning of its time as an entertainment venue.

Tallinn Nightlife A few more suggestions for evening (or early morning) entertainment:

Bars & Pubs Clayhills Pikk 13, Tallinn Old Town h1

PLACES TO STAY, PLACES TO CRASH

TEXT STUART GARLICK

ightlife is mostly about going to bars and clubs and having a great time. However, I’m aware that nightlife needs to be practical at times. That’s why I’ve decided to look at ways you can have a good time, close to your hostel.

For the Drinkers: 16 euro Hostel & Protest I begin with the hostel that I would is the best in Tallinn at the moment, for the simple reason that, when I was testing this out last weekend, my friend, who was visiting Tallinn, was able to get a very late bed here, but not anywhere else. 16 euro Hostel is based in the Rotermann quarter, which can be an area that looks a little bit scary at times. However, on the developed side of Rotermann the outlook is very different, with the place slowly taking on the kind of vibe that is reminiscent of, perhaps, Liverpool’s Albert Docks. When my friend stepped into the hostel at 4am, considered an unreasonable hour by many Tallinn hotels and hostels, he was greeted by a nice receptionist there was a late room available. Add to that the fact that it was a private room that he got at such late notice (they all are), and this was an excellent experience. Protest is a no-frills bar that has been a fixture of Rotermann for years. With its wood panelling and, often, large crowds, this is a great place to go, to have a few beers. It’s not a place to see and be seen, but it’s all the better for it. There is a good beer selection behind the bar, and the seating, although hard to come by on a Saturday night, is arranged in a way that makes it easy to sit and chat if you’re tired of standing. Far from just a night-starter, I’d even argue that this bar can be the main

✏ STUART GARLICK is a journalist and English language teacher based in Tallinn. Since 2012, his blog, Charm Offensive, has covered food, music and fashion in Estonia.

Drink Baar

Tapper Pärnu mnt 158g, Tallinn

Cubanita Live Cafe Narva mnt. 5, Tallinn a2

Väike-Karja 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Gay

Hell Hunt

G-punkt

Pikk 39, Tallinn Old Town g2

Mad Murphy’s Mündi 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

Nimeta Baar

Pärnu mnt 23, Tallinn

X-baar Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Suur-Karja 4, Tallinn Old Town i2

Karaoke

Protest

Gelsomino Karaoke

fixture of your night out; it’s mere metres from the hostel and it’s incredibly cheap.

Mere pst 6a, Tallinn a2

Lai 2, Tallinn Old Town g1

Põrgu

Koskenkorva Karaoke Bar

Rüütli 4, Tallinn Old Town i1

Roseni 13, Tallinn a2

For the Hipsters: Fat Margaret’s Hostel & Tops

The Highlander

Laif Restoran & Karaoke Club

Kuninga 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Lai 5, Tallinn Old Town g1

Cigar Lounges

Nightclubs

Chicago 1933

Butterfly Lounge

Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3

Vana-Viru 13 / Aia 4, Tallinn Old Town h3

If you want to experience what many locals enjoy, you would be advised to stay outside of the usual hostel loops. Fat Margaret’s Hostel is actually located in the shadow of the redeveloped factories of Kalasadama, where the outlook is rapidly changing. Once a dark, unbecoming area, this is transforming into a place where business is encouraged, and where lighting is very good. The hostel offers a free sauna and pool session to residents as standard (though this comes with a quite strict time limit), along with a variety of male, female or mixed dorms that are all at between 9 and 10. Reviews suggest Fat Margaret’s is a place which is for the younger traveller, given that it is on two different floors, and is located outside (though not too far away from) the Old Town. If you walk away from Fat Margaret’s down Soo street in the direction of the Rimi supermarket, and then continue down that same road, you find Tops, a bar inside an old wooden shop building in historic Kalamaja, the home of Tallinn’s cool hipster community. Inside this bar, the atmosphere is really lively, the music is excellent thanks to, at weekends, a selection of great guest DJs, and bar staff will happily help you choose a craft beer to suit your tastes. What makes Tops great, though, is the people. You find that, in spite of its hipster origins, every kind of person frequents this little beer with a big heart. There’s always someone new to talk to. ■

La Casa del Habano Dunkri 2, Tallinn Old Town h1

The Oak Lounge

Café Amigo Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Raekoja plats 16, Tallinn Old Town h2

Club Baila

Estonian

Club Hollywood

Karja Kelder Väike-Karja 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Kochi Ait Tavern Lootsi 10, Tallinn a3

Kolmas Draakon Raekoja plats 1, Tallinn Old Town h2

Seiklusjutte Maalt ja Merelt Tartu mnt 44, Tallinn b3

Valli Baar Müürivahe 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2 Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Club Privé Harju 6, Tallinn Old Town i1

Club Studio Sauna 1, Tallinn Old Town i2

Loung Club Violet Roseni 9, Tallinn a2

Teater Vabaduse väljak 5, Tallinn Old Town j1

Vabank Harju 13, Tallinn Old Town j1

Live Music

Venus

Café Amigo

Vana-Viru 14, Tallinn Old Town h3

Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Chicago 1933 Aia 3, Tallinn Old Town h3

Clazz Vana turg 2, Tallinn Old Town h2

NYC Piano Bar Vana-Posti 8, Tallinn Old Town i2

Rock Café Tartu mnt 80D, Tallinn c4

Late Night Dining Istanbul Kebab Estonia pst 7, Tallinn b2

Loca Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Söögiplats Tatari 1, Tallinn b2

Taco Express Suur-Karja 18, Tallinn Old Town i2

SATUMAA

Rock & Roll Karaoke Bar

Location Rotermanni 16 euro Hostel Roseni 9, Tallinn a2 Protest Mere pst 6a, Tallinn a2 Fat Margaret’s Hostel Põhja pst 27, Tallinn a2 Tops Soo 15, Tallinn

Finnish and International Karaoke Bar, located at Viru 4 (Old Town) in the heart of Tallinn. Originally founded in Helsinki in 1999. Over 36000 songs available.

SHOTS 3€ Opening hours: Sun - Tue 15–02 Wed - Sat 12–04

WWW.

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T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 6

troika@troika.ee, +372 627 62 45

Cafe «TROIKA» - Mere pst.5 cafe@troika.ee, +372 631 37 65

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Restaurant & Trahter - Raekoja Plats 15

family

Winter Fun in T You don’t have to go very far to keep active this season.

roviding we actually get some snow this year, (or even if we don’t), there is plenty to keep you busy outside this winter. Did you know that there are beautiful forests and serene landscapes, all within a quick bus or train ride from Tallinn? Or, that you can skate right in the centre of the Old Town? Whether you like skiing, skating, tobogganing, snow tubing, or simply hiking, you won’t find a dull moment here.

Skating in the Old Town Harju tn, Tallinn, Old Town i1

Have you ever skated in the centre of a medieval town? Enjoy skating right in the heart of Tallinn’s Old Town on Harju Street. Skates are available for rental. And you can warm up with a cup of hot cocoa beside the rink.

Tallinn Song Festival Grounds Narva mnt 95, Tallinn Buses 1A,5,8,34A,38-stop “Lauluväljak”

In winter, and provided there is snow, the slopes of the Song Festival Grounds are packed with skiers, snowboarders and tobog-

y fun

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 6

Tallinn gans. In past years the Winter Park has had a snowpark with ten obstacles including flat boxes, a rainbow, A Frame, Wave box, some pipes and more. Skaters can enjoy a skating rink; crosscountry skiers can enjoy 1.8 kilometres of tracks, suitable for both classic and skating styles; and snow tubes are provided.

Pirita Velodroom & Trails Rummu tee 3, Tallinn

The trails at Pirita are used for walking in summer and skiing in winter. In winter, the trails are lit until 22.00. There are 7.2 kilometres of trails all together. Ski equipment rental is available from the Pirita Velodrome, as well as locker rental and use a shower and sauna.

Nõmme Spordikeskus Külmallika 15a, Tallinn

Train schedules: www.elron.ee If you have never been to this suburb of Tallinn, then you’ve been missing out. This forest area is beautiful both in summer and in winter. It’s easily accessible by train, and you can take part in both cross-country and downhill skiing. Enjoy 1, 2, 3, 5, 15 kilometre

cross-country ski trails from the Nõmme Spordikeskus. Ski equipment rental is available, as well as use of sauna.

Nõmme Snowpark (Nõmme Lumepark) Vana-Mustamäe tee 16, Tallinn

The Nõmme Snow Park offers downhill skiing and snowboarding. Equipment can be rented and individual and group lessons can be organised for beginners more advanced skiers, and snowboarders alike. The slopes are lit until 21.00. ■

Other favourite places for families in Tallinn: Tallinn Zoo (Tallinna Loomaaed), Paldiski mnt 145 & Ehitajate tee 150, Tallinn. Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum), Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam), Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn. Energy Discovery Centre (Energia Avastuskeskus, Põhja pst 29, Tallinn a2 Tallinn TV Tower (Tallinna teletorn), Kloostrimetsa tee 58 A, Tallinn.

family fun

A walk through Kadriorg is beautiful in both winter and summer.

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 6

The childern's museum Miiamilla organises different workshops.

Fun for Everyone Tallinn is a great city break for the whole family. TEXT VENLA RANTANEN, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

A walking tour of the Old Town is

fascinating, but perhaps not so much for children. Thankfully there is no shortage of other fun things for the whole family.

Tallinn TV Tower and Botanic Gardens The TV Tower is just a short bus ride from the city centre. Along the way there are other points of interest like Pirita Convent and the Song Festival Grounds. The TV Tower stands almost 200 meters above sea level. The viewing platform looks out over Tallinn and Viimsi. On the 22nd floor there is also a restaurant. Near the tower are the Botanic Gardens, which are accessible with the purchase of a ticket. There is

Seaplane Harbour

something to see for both young and old. Warm up in the greenhouse where there is a large array of plants.

Kadrioru Park Kadrioru Park is both lovely in summer and winter. The presidential palace is located here as well as a few art museums. Visit the fountain in front of the Kadrioru Art Museum. Kadrioru also a large playground. One part is suitable for younger children and the other for older children. Beside the playground is the MiiaMilla Children’s Museum, which is most suitable for younger children. If you get hungry, stop in at Katharinenthal Café. The top floor is a restaurant and the main floor is a café with a great selection of pastries and sweets.

The botanic gardens are interesting for the whole family.

Visit Tallinn's TV Tower.

The Seaplane Harbour is a short taxi ride or slightly longer walk from the city centre. It’s an old seaplane hangar that has been turned into a maritime museum. It’s a museum that will be fun for the whole family. Outside there are many old ships that you can visit. You can wander through the icebreaker Suur Tõll. Inside, explore the inside of a submarine. Many of the exhibits are interactive where you can try shooting down a plane, flying a seaplane or playing with ships in a pool. Until the end of April visit the exhibit Race to the End of the World, about the race to reach the South Pole.

Practice your aim at the Seaplane Harbour.

Miiamilla Children’s Museum The children’s museum in Kalamaja features different dolls and dollhouses. Outside there are other toys you can play with. The museum also organises different workshops. ■

Location Tallinn TV Tower (Tallinna Teletorn), Kloostrimetsa tee 58a, Tallinn. Busses 34A and 38 from under Viru Keskus, Teletorn stop. Kadrioru Park. Trams 1 and 3 towards Kadriorg, Kadriorg stop. Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam), Vesilennuki tee 6. Miiamilla Children’s Museum (Laste muuseum Miiamilla), Kotzebue 16, Tallinn a1. Trams 1 and 2 towards Kopli, Telliskivi stop.

events

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■ The Living Universe

■ Mulgi Skating Marathon

“Are we alone in the universe?” – This is a

18 November - 31 March Tallinn TV Tower Kloostrimetsa tee 58 A, Tallinn

Provided the snowy cold wintery weather is in our favour, the Mulgi Skating Marathon will celebrate its 7th anniversary in January. Register at www.sportinfo.ee. All skating enthusiasts are welcome on the rink before and after the marathon.

Photo: Ratta Klubi

question that we have been asking for a long time. The exhibition “The Living Universe” seeks to answer this question in greater detail, examining the mechanics behind the origin of life, the conditions on other planets and developing technologies for communicating with extraterrestrial life.

24 January, Viljandi Lake, Viljandi

The Wild Boar Trail Get to know these interesting creatures at the new exhibit at the Estonian Museum of Natural History. TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTO ANDREI CHERTKOV

The wild boar was name animal of

the year in 2015; it was often in the Estonian media because African swine fever has devastated the pig population both in the wild and domestically. Currently the fever seems to be under control in pigstys, but is still rampant in the forests. Despite this, there is still a population of tens of thousands of wild boar in Estonia. Wild Boar - A Real Pig follows a day in the life of a wild boar. Take a look at the wild boar photo competition where you can see the boar in different places. In the middle of the room a stuffed boar is on display. Just seeing the sheer size of the animal makes you wonder how nature photographers must feel out there in the wild. The best part of the exhibit for children is the dimly lit room where you can see how the boars live, or the treasure hunt for hidden goodies. The smell test can be quite strong for some, especially the bottle with wild boar urine. The examp-

Have you ever tried wild boar?

les of fur also show that wild boars have different types of fur on different parts of their bodies. The exhibit offers plenty of information about wild boar. Did you know that a wild boar makes 20 different sounds? Or that a wild boar recognises itself in the mirror? Stand in front of the mirror and take a wild boar selfie. Take the time to visit the second and third floors of the

museum where you will see different kinds of nests and learn about creatures that live in rivers, forests, and the sea. ■

Location Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum), Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town f2 The exhibit runs until 21 February 2016.

Elsa and Anna’s Anniversary Show Disney On Ice has thrilled audiences for for 25 years. The anniversary show comes to Tallinn in February. TEXT MIKKO VIRTA, PHOTOS DISNEY ON ICE

This special performance will

bring all of your favourite Disney characters to the ice. Your hosts for the evening are Mickey and Minnie, Goofy, and Donald and Daisy duck. Well known characters are together from four classic films. Spectators will be shown The Lion King, The Little Mermaid, Peter Pan and the fantasy world of Frozen.

This unforgettable show will be

performed by master skaters with fabulous costumes skating to well-known Disney music. There will five shows over four days at the Saku Suurhall in Tallinn from 11-14 February. Tickets start at 19 and are available from Piletilevi. ■

Location Disney On Ice, 11–14 February, Saku Suurhall, Tallinn.

■ Event and Concert Tickets Tickets to just about any event or concert in Estonia can be purchased online at Piletilevi, Piletimaailm, and Ticketpro. Or, visit one of their central locations at: ■ Piletilevi: Viru Shopping Centre, Viru väljak 4/6, Tallinn B2. ■ Ticketpro: Solaris Shopping Centre, Estonia pst 9, Tallinn B2. ■ Piletimaailm (Eesti konsert): Estonia pst 4, Tallinn B2. The exhibit offers plenty of information about wild boar.

sightseeing

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TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Must-see sights of the Old Town Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels

Raekoja plats

Viewing Platforms Kohtu Platform - offers one of the best views of the Old Town. The impressive tower of the Niguliste Church seems at arm's length. The red-tiled roofs with white edges are characteristic of Tallinn. Tallinn b1 Patkul Platform - shows both a view of St Olaf’s Church, and part of the city wall. The church was even taller in medieval times and the tallest building in the world in its time. Nowhere else can you see the city wall from a better angle. Tallinn b1 Kiriku Platform - the platform at the end of Kiriku Street faces west and offers a view of splendid and romantic sunsets. Tallinn b1

St Olaf’s Church (Oleviste kirik) Climb the stairs of the St Olaf Church and you will discover not only the lower town beneath, but also the magnificent palaces facing the slopes of Toompea Hill, and the upper town. The old town of Tallinn is divided into a lower and upper part. The lower town was inhabited by hanseatic traders and the upper town, or Toompea, was inhabited by nobility. Lai 50, Tallinn Old Town e2

Tallinn’s Old Town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats) is Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval town hall square and was built at the beginning of the 1400s. Tallinn Old Town h 1-2

The Kiek in de Kök tower is the entrance to historical underground bastion tunnels. In Soviet times they were supposed to serve as bomb shelters and protect the communist elite in case of a war. Kiek in de Kök means “look into the kitchen” in Low German, as this was one of the main things soldiers spent their time doing while on the lookout for intruders. Kiek in de Kök dates back to the 15th century. The tower is 38 metres tall, and the walls are four metres thick. Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn b1

Raeapteek The Town Hall Pharmacy (Raeapteek) is one of Europe's oldest pharmacies, which still operates in its original location, on Town Hall Square. Tallinn Old Town h1

KGB Museum Toompea Castle The Tall Hermann Tower (15th century) on the southwest corner of the hill, and the blue, black, and white Estonian flag signify independence and freedom for Estonians. Today, Toompea is the centre of Estonian government and the Riigikogu (parliament). Look for the pink building behind the Russian Orthodox Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral. Tallinn b1

A fascinating museum about Soviet history in Estonia is located on the top floor of the Viru Hotel. The hotel rooms were under KGB surveillance. The rooms were equipped with microphones, and small holes were made in the walls, where cameras could be placed to take pictures of hotel guests. The museum is only accessible by guided tour. Tours run daily and are held in English, Finnish, Russian, and Estonian. English tours fill up quickly so bookings are recommended. Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2

Hop on, Hop off Bus Tour Sometimes you just don’t have enough time to see everything, but on the Tallinn City Tour you just might. Three lines run daily, and best of all, each one passes through the Port of Tallinn, making it even more convenient. The tour operates in ten different languages and is guided by a recorded audio track that follows the sequence of the sights. One ticket is valid for 24 hours. This means that you can travel on all three routes in one day.

Paks Margareeta Katariina käik Blink and you might miss this narrow passageway off of Vene. Built in 1246, St. Catherine's Monastery (Püha Katariina klooster) is the oldest building in Tallinn. This passageway is also known as the Latin Quarter of Tallinn, and where you can find one of Tallinn’s first Italian restaurants. Tallinn Old Town h 2-3

Fat Margaret (Paks Margareeta) is the most important fortification tower in Tallinn. She was built in the early 1500s. The diameter of the tower is 25 metres and the walls are up to 5 metres thick! She was constructed to protect Tallinn from intruders from the sea. Fat Margaret is often the main entrance gate and first encounter for visitors to the Old Town in Tallinn, if arriving by sea. The Estonian Maritime Museum is located in the artillery tower (suurtükitorn). Pikk 70, Tallinn a2

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 6

sightseeing

17 ESTONIA AT-A-GLANCE

TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Outside of the Old Town Kalamaja & Kopli Kalamaja (Fish house) is a historic suburb filled with wooden houses and old factories. Since the 14th century, Kalamaja has served as Tallinn’s main fishing port and was home to fishermen and fishmongers. When the railroad connected Tallinn with St. Petersburg in 1870, many factories

opened. The colourful wooden houses you still see today were built in the 1920s and 1930s to house the growing working population. Kalamaja has seen a revival over the last few years as artists and other bohemian types have moved in for the large spaces and cheap rent. Restaurants and cafés began to open, and the area continues to grow.

Area: 45,227 km2. Population: approximately 1,350,000 Capital: Tallinn, population approximately 400,000. Other cities: Tartu 98,522, Narva 64,057, Pärnu 42,433 Ethnicity: Estonians 68%, Russians 24.8%, Other 6.5% Language: The official language is Estonian, which belongs to the Finno-Ugric group of languages (Finnish, Hungarian). Russian is the mother tongue of more than 300,000 inhabitants. English is widely spoken throughout the country. Religion: Approximately 20% of Estonians are nonreligious, others Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic.

Currency: Euro € Independence: 24 February 1918 Re-independence: 20 August 1991 Weather: Average temperature July 16C, February -9C Time Zone: GMT +2 Elevation: The highest point in Estonia is Suur Munamägi (318m) located in Võru County. Islands: 1,521. The largest are Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, and Muhu. Lakes: Lake Peipsi, located on the border between Russia and Estonia, is Europe’s fourth largest lake (3,555km2).

A quick history of the city of Tallinn The name Tallinn originates from the Danish occupation (1219–).

Seaplane Harbour (Lennusadam) Küti 17 / Vesilennuki 6, Tallinn By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop. Have you ever seen the hull of a real submarine from below? Or better still, crawled through the narrow living and working quarters of a fully refurbished sub from the 1930s? The submarine Lembit was one of two Estonian submarines

built in the UK in the mid 1930s. Another sight is an authentic replica of the Short Admiralty Type 184 seaplane, a British two-seat reconnaissance, bombing, and torpedo carrying folding-wing seaplane used in the Estonian War of Independence in the early 1920s and later for mail service. The museum is located in the former seaplane hangars built during WWI by the Russian tsar. The construction is architecturally unique since it was the largest armoured concrete ceiling in the world at the time of construction.

Patarei Prison (Patarei Vangla) Kalaranna 2-2a By tram: No. 1 or 2 from the city centre to the Linnahall stop.

Kadriorg Kadriorg Park is the area that houses the Presidential Palace (Presidendi kantselei) and the Kadriorg Palace (Kadrioru loss), and the KUMU Art Museum. (All located on Weizenbergi). Kadriorg means Catherine’s Valley in Estonian, and dates back to the 18th century. The park and the palace were built by Peter the Great, who apparently

1285 Tallinn joins the Hanseatic League. 1346 The Danish sell Tallinn to the German Order. Toompea was divided among princes and bourgeoisie in the upper-town and craftsmen in the lower-town. 1561 Tallinn goes to the Swedish. 1721 The Russians conquer Estonia and Tallinn. 1918 Estonia declares independence and Tallinn becomes its capital. 1939–44 Russians and Germans occupy Tallinn. 1944 The Soviet Army bombs Tallinn in March and causes extensive damage. 1400 people are killed.

Patarei Prison gives an eerie glimpse into gloomy Soviet era prison life. For a small entrance fee you can take a self-guided tour through the dark halls of this old sea fortress that has served as a barracks, and then as a prison during Soviet times.

helped in its building. As was customary at the time, the main house was named after his wife. There are plenty of other things to see in this beautiful and prestigious park. From the Kadriorg Palace, head straight along the park trail to the Russalka monument, located at the shore of the Gulf of Finland. The famous Song Festival Grounds (Lauluväljak) are only a short walk from the park as well.

Pirita Pirita is an area located a short distance to the east of the city centre. Start by visiting the ruins of St Birgitta’s Convent (Pirita klooster) whose colourful history dates back to the 15th century. Its proximity to the Pirita River and the beach makes it perfect as part of a day excursion. The 2km long beach can attract up to 30,000 visitors a day in summer. Also located a short distance from the beach is the city’s Botanical Gardens

■ Medical Centres and Pharmacies 24H Pharmacy Tõnismägi 5, Tallinn Tel. +372 644 2282 Mustamäe Medical Centre Ehitajate tee 27, Tallinn Tel.+372 659 8318 Keskhaigla Medical Centre Ravi 18, Tallinn Tel. 1900, +372 622 7070

TOURIST INFORMATION (Botaanikaaed) and the famous Tallinn TVTower (Teletorn), which is a must see as it not only provides a number of interactive exhibits but also offers one of the best views of the city and the district. St Birgitta’s Convent ruins (Pirita klooster)-Kloostri tee 9, Tallinn

Tallinn: Niguliste 2/Kullassepa 4, Tallinn Tartu: Raekoja plats 1A, Tartu Pärnu: Uus 4, Pärnu Narva: Peetri plats 3, Narva

1944–1991 Tallinn becomes a Soviet capital and hosts the sailing competitions of the 1980 Moscow Olympics. 1991 Tallinn becomes the capital of newlyindependent Estonia. In 1997, it is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 2011 Tallinn is the European Capital of Culture along with Turu. Its population is estimated at 411,000: 53% Estonians, 38% Russians, 9% Other.

■ Central Post Offices Postimaja Post Office Narva mnt 1, Tallinn B2. Kristiine Post Office Endla 45 (Kristiine Shopping Centre), Tallinn Airport Post Office Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn Toompea Post Office Lossi plats 4, Tallinn Old Town, B1. Old Town Postal Store Viru 20, Tallinn Old Town, H3. Rakvere: Laada 14, Rakvere Järvamaa: Keskväljak 8, Paide Räpina: Kooli 1, Räpina Jõgeva: Suur 3, Jõgeva Saaremaa: Tallinna 2, Kuressaare Hiiumaa: Hiiu 1, Kärdla Haapsalu: Karja 15, Haapsalu Jõhvi: Rakvere 13A, Jõhvi Otepää: Tartu mnt 1, Otepää Valga: Kesk 11, Valga Viljandi: Vabaduse plats 6, Viljandi Võru: Jüri 12, Võru Rapla: Viljandi mnt 4, Rapla

■ Currency Exchange Debit and credit cards are widely accepted throughout Estonia, especially VISA and Mastercard. American Express is not as widely accepted.

Tallinn TV Tower (Teletorn) Kloostrimetsa tee 58A, Tallinn

Currency can be exchanged in banks throughout the country. Major Estonian banks include: LHV, Swedbank, SEB, and Nordea. There is a wide network of ATMs in major cities and smaller towns. Currency can also be exchanged at Eurex, and Tavid.

Botanical Gardens (Botaanikaaed) Kloostrimetsa tee 52, Tallinn.

Holidays

Estonian Open Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. Visitors can catch a glimpse of the Estonian countryside and village life

from the past. The venue has a distinctive rural atmosphere that includes various farm buildings as well as its own church, tavern, and schoolhouse. Several mills, a fire station, fishing net sheds, a dancing area, and a village swing add to the character of the place. Some of the country’s iconic windmills can also be seen. Various demonstrations, displays and interactive activities help bring the past to life and provide visitors with a fun and educational experience.

1 January – New Year’s Day 24 February – Independence Day Easter Good Friday 1 May – Spring Holiday; Pentecost; 23 June – Victory Day; 24 June – Midsummer’s Day; 20 August – Re-independence Day; 24 December – Christmas Eve; 25 December – Christmas Day; 26 December – Boxing Day

The work day preceding New Year’s Day, Independence Day, Victory Day, and Christmas Day is reduced by three hours.

2015/2016 School Holidays Autumn Break 17 October 2015 – 25 October 2015 Winter Break 23 December 2015 – 10 January 2016 Spring Break 19 March 2016 – 27 March 2016 Summer Break 4 June 2016 - 31 August 2016

museum

T H E B A LT I C G U I D E ™ J A N UA R Y 2 0 1 6

Museums & Galleries Museum of Estonian Architecture (Eesti Arhitektuurimuuseum. Rotermanni soolaladu)

TALLINN ■

Museums

Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design (Eesti Tarbekunsti- ja Disainimuuseum) Lai 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.etdm.ee. We-Su 11 - 18.

Museum of Puppet Arts NUKU (Nukumuuseum NUKU) Lai 1, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.nuku.ee. Tu-Su 10-19.

Estonian History Museum Great Guild Hall (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum) Pikk 17, Tallinn Old Town, g1 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. 01.09 - 30.04 Th-Tu 10–18.

Estonian History Museum Maarjamäe Palace Maarjamäe Castle, Pirita tee 56, Tallinn, a5 www.ajaloomuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17.

Estonian Maritime Museum (Eesti Meremuuseum) Pikk 70, Tallinn Old Town, d3 www.meremuuseum.ee. 01.10-30.04 Tu-Su 10–18.

Occupation Museum (Okupatsioonimuuseum) Toompea 8, Tallinn Old Town, b1 www.okupatsioon.ee. Tu-Su 11 - 18.

Photo Museum (Raevangla fotomuuseum) Raekoja 4, Tallinn Old Town, h2. (Located behind Tallinn’s Old Town Square) www.linnamuuseum.ee/fotomuuseum. 1.03-31.10 Th-Tu 10.30-18, 1.11-29.02 Th-Tu 10-17.30.

Tallinn City Museum (Tallinna Linnamuuseum) Vene 17, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.linnamuuseum.ee We – Mo 10.30–17.30.

Estonian Museum of Natural History (Eesti Loodusmuuseum) Lai 29a, Tallinn Old Town, f2 www.loodusmuuseum.ee. We 10-17, Th 10-19, Fri-Su 10-17.

Estonian Open Air Museum (Eesti Vabaõhumuuseum) Vabaõhumuuseumi tee 12, Tallinn. www.evm.ee. 23.04-28.09 Mo-Su 10-20, 29.09-22.04 Mo-Su 10-17.

Estonian Theatre and Music Museum (Eesti Teatri- ja muusikamuuseum) Müürivahe 12, Tallinn Old Town, i2 www.tmm.ee. 1.09-31.05 May, Tu-Sa 10-18. 1.06-31.08, Mo-Sa 10-18.

Kiek in de Kök & Bastion Passages Komandandi tee 2, Tallinn Old Town, j1 www.linnamuuseum.ee/kok/. 1.03-31.10 Tu-Su 10.30-18. 1.11-29.02 Tu-Su 10-17.30.

Miia-Milla-Manda Museum (Muuseum Miia-Milla-Manda) L. Koidula 21C, Tallinn b4 www.linnamuuseum.ee/miiamillamanda. Tu-Su 12-18.

Dominican Monastery Museum (Dominikaanlaste Kloostri muuseum) Vene 16, Tallinn Old Town, g3 www.kloostri.ee. 1.06-30.09 Mon-Sun 11-17. Winter by appointment only.

Ahtri 2, Tallinn, a2 www.arhitektuurimuuseum.ee. We 12–18, Th 12-20, Fr-Su 11-18.

Viru Hotel and KGB Museum (Hotell Viru ja KGB muuseum) Viru väljak 4, Tallinn b2 http://www.sokoshotels.fi/en/hotels/tallinn/ basic-information/hotel-viru-and-kgb-museum/ Please contact the hotel to make a booking. Tours available in English, Finnish, and Russian.

■ Art Museums & Galleries

Adamson-Eric Museum (Adamson-Ericu muuseum) Lühike jalg 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.adamson-eric.ee. We-Su 11–18

Kadrioru Art Museum (Kadrioru kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 37, Tallinn, a4 www.kadriorumuuseum.ee. Jan–Apr: We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17. May–June : Th 10–17, We 10–20, Th–Su 10–17.

Mikkeli Museum (Mikkeli muuseum) Weizenbergi 28, Tallinn, b4 www.mikkelimuuseum.ee. Jan–June: We 10–20, Th-Su 10–17. July–Dec: Tu, Th-Su 10–17, We 10–20.

Kumu Art Museum (Kumu kunstimuuseum) Weizenbergi 34/Valge 1, Tallinn, b5 www.kumu.ee. Oct–Apr: We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18. May–Sept: Tu 11–18, We 11–20, Th–Su 11–18.

Niguliste Museum (Niguliste muuseum) Niguliste 3, Tallinn Old Town, i1 www.nigulistemuuseum.ee. We-Su 10–17. Ticket office closes 16.30.

Insight into the life in Estonia during three occupations (1940-1991)

Temporary Exhibitions Guided Tours upon prior reservation

MUSEUM OF OCCUPATIONS Toompea 8, Tallinn Open 11.00 - 18.00 Phone: +372 668 0250 muuseum@okupatsioon.ee www.okupatsioon.ee

Look for the big red bus in Viru Square.

Hop On, Hop Off A bus tour is a great way to see the city’s sights while keeping warm. TEXT KRISTINA LUPP, PHOTOS ANDREI CHERTKOV

Tallinn Card holders can can choose one free tour.

Why not take an afternoon to enjoy

the sights of Tallinn from the comfort and warmth of the big red Tallinn City Tour bus. If you have travelled in Europe, then you have probably seen a city tour bus already, as they are running in most major European cities. The Tallinn City Tour offers three different routes. The tour operates in ten different languages and is guide by a recorded audio track that follows the sequence of the sights. One ticket (19) is valid for 24 hours or 23 for 48 hours. Family packages are also available, as well as discounts if you book online. This means that you can travel on all three routes in one day.

The Red Line – This route lasts one hour and gives a good overview of the history of Tallinn. It is the most popular route among tourists, as you really get a sense of how Tallinn has changed over the years. This is evident in the architecture. The Blue Line – This route also

lasts for one hour and travels west outside the city centre to give you a taste of the old countryside at the Open Air Museum in the Rocca al Mare district. The Green Line – This route tra-

vels east in the opposite direction towards Pirita Convent. Along

the way, the bus stops at Kadriorg Palace, the Song Festival Grounds, Maarjamäe Castle and the Estonian History Museum. All three lines pass through the Port of Tallinn, so if you are coming from Helsinki or Stockholm then it is a great way to start your weekend in Tallinn. Other packages are also available including the Bus & Top Stops package where one ticket can be used on all three lines and includes access to two museums. Try the Bus & Balloon package where you can take a ride on both the bus and Balloon Tallinn for an unforgettable view over the city. Check the website www.citytour.ee for schedule details and stops. ■

getting around

TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ JJAANNUUAARRYY 22001166

19 Ticket Information

PUBLIC TRANSPORT KOPLI

1, 2 9 Kopli Sepa Marati

Maleva Maleva

Sirbi

The Smartcard or Ühiskaart can be topped up with money or e-tickets and can be purchased from any of the sales points listed at www.pilet. ee. A €2 deposit is needed to purchase the Smartcard. If you are using pay-as-you-go credit, your Smartcard automatically calculates the cheapest fare for you within a 24-hour time period. You must validate your card at the beginning of each journey.

Tallinn’s public transport system consists of trams, buses, and trolleys. All three use the same ticketing system. In 2013, a smartcard ticketing system was introduced. If you plan on using public transport more than three times, this is your best option. Smartcards can be purchased and topped up at R-Kiosks and are transferrable. The Tallinn Card also allows you to use public transport for free. Both cards must be validated by touching them to the orange card reader. Detailed route plans are displayed at all the stops, or plan you journey ahead of time on-line at: http://soiduplaan.tallinn.ee

Sitsi Lõime Angerja

Madala

KALAMAJA

PÕHJA-TALLINN Ehte Volta

Trolley-buses 1 3 4 5 6 7

Trams

Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Mustamäe Balti jaam – Keskuse Balti jaam – Mustamäe Kaubamaja – Väike-Õismäe Balti jaam – Väike- Õismäe

1 2 3 4

Balti jaam Telliskivi

Kadriorg – Kopli Ülemiste– Kopli Kadriorg – Tondi Ülemiste jaam – Tondi

Kolde puiestee Ädala

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Hipodroom

Humala

Taksopark

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Mooni Koskla

Välja Haabersti

From the driver

4 7 5

J. Poska

Balti jaam Mere pst Hobujaama L. Koidula 1, 3 Tallinna Htl. Tallinn OLD Viru Ülikool KADRIORG 6 TOWN Htl. Tallinn 1 Paberi Tehnika Tõnis3 Estonia KAUBAA. Adam- mägi Keskturg Vabaduse soni MAJA väljak Tõnismägi Majaka AutobussiKoidu jaam Sikupilli Kosmos Lubja Koidu

Kelmiküla

Ristiku Sõle

Looga Mustjõe

Linnahall Port

KADRIORG

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UUS-MAAILM

VEERENNI

Bus Station

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Tihase Tedre

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KRISTIINE

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VÄIKE-ÕISMÄE 7 6 Väike- ÕISMÄE

Löwenruh Linnu tee

Aiandi

Nurmenuku

TallinnVäike

2 Ülemiste

E-tickets ■ ■ ■ ■ ■

1 hour ticket 1 day (24h) 3 days (72h) 5 days (120h) 30 days

€1.10 €3 €5 €6 €23

Sääse

Kullerkupu

TONDI

Siili

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1 3 5

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■ single ticket €1.60 ■ student ticket €0.80 Try to have exact change for the driver. Cards are not accepted. The ticket is valid for one journey only on that specific vehicle. Discounts are only available to ISIC cardholders.

Where to buy ■ ■ ■ ■

Lepistiku

Akadeemia tee KESKUSE Männi Vambola Mustamäe Liivaku Keskuse 9 4 Raja Keemia Ehitajate tee

JÄRVE

from the driver from kiosks from post offices online www.pilet.ee (Top up your smartcard with MasterCard or Visa)

TALLINN CITY TOUR PIRITA

Take a tour of Tallinn on the red double-decker bus. Simultaneous translation in 10 different languages. Hop On Hop Off - bus tickets valid for 24h on three different lines.

Free ■ preschool children ■ adult travelling with children 3 years and under ■ holders of a validated Tallinn Card

LASNAMÄE KOPLI port

KALAMAJA ROCCA AL MARE

PELGULINN MERIMETSA

OLD TOWN

VEERENNI

KADRIORG

SIKUPILLI

Red Line - City Centre Green Line - Pirita Blue Line - Rocca al Mare Tour routes last approximately one hour. All services begin at Viru Square. Tickets 19€ www.citytour.ee

6-118-000 11-800 (+€0.74 / min)

www.pilet.ee, info@pilet.ee

■ Useful Phrases please.................................................. palun thank you .......................................... aitäh, tänan excuse me ......................................... vabandage hello..................................................... tere, tervist good morning ................................. tere hommikust good day............................................ tere päevast good evening .................................. tere õhtust good night ........................................ head ööd goodbye ............................................ nägemist, head aega all the best......................................... kõike head, kõike paremat have a good trip.............................. head reisi bon appetite .................................... jätku leiba, head isu cheers, to your health ................... terviseks

How much does this cost? ............. kui palju see maksab? Do you have…?.................................. kas teil on? on teil? where is… ............................................ kus on… What is this?......................................... mis see on? What does this mean? ..................... mida see tähendab? How are you? (formal)...................... kuidas elate? How are you? (informal) .................. kuidas läheb? not bad .................................................. pole viga! nice to see you/to meet you.......... rõõm teid näha, meeldiv kohtuda it was nice meeting you .................. oli meeldiv tutvuda What time is it? ................................... palju kell on? I do not speak Estonian, Russian .. mina ei oska eesti (vene) keelt Do you speak English? ..................... kas te räägite inglise keelt? /Swedish/Finnish/German? ........... /rootsi/soome/saksa keelt?

transport

TTHHEE BBAALLTTI ICC GGUUI IDDEE ™™ JJAANNUUAARRYY 22001166

TALLINN

Photo: Margus Johanson

■ Getting to and from Tallinn

www.visitestonia.com Tartu

■ By bus: Tallinn Central Bus Station (Tallinna Autobussijaam) Lastekodu 46, Tallinn www.tpilet.ee, www.peatus.ee Ecolines – www.ecolines.ee Hansabuss Business Line – www.businessline.ee Lux Express – www.luxexpress.eu Temptrans – www.temptrans.ee

■ Phone calls There are no city codes in Estonia. Local calls can be made simply by entering the number as is. Mobile phone numbers start with 5. Estonia’s country code is +372. Dail 00, then the country code, and then the phone number to make a call overseas.

■ Free WiFi Ye s , t h a t ’s right, the rumours are true! Almost everywhere you go in Estonia, you will find free WiFi access for your mobile devices. Look for the orange and black WiFi sign, or visit www. wifi.ee for a listing of all Internet hotspots.

■ Emergency Phone Numbers: POLICE and EMERGENCY 112 AUTOMOBILE 1888 (24 h) ■ Taxis

From the bus station to the city: ■ tram no. 2, 4 ■ bus no. 17, no. 23

Driving in Estonia No international driver’s licence is required to drive in Estonia, but the following rules apply to all drivers: ■ Blood alcohol level must be zero. ■ Estonia has no motorways per say. Please mind intersections and cyclists. ■ The speed limit is most often 50km/h in towns, but can vary between 30-70km/h depending on the area. Speed limits will be posted. Outside of cities and towns the speed limit is 90km/h and 110km/h on dual carriageways. ■ All cars must carry a warning triangle, wheel chocks, a first aid kit, and fire extinguisher. Drivers must wear fluorescent vests when stopped at night. ■ In case of collision, please call the police. Insurance documents and driver information should be exchanged. ■ Please pay parking and speed fines to avoid further penalty.

■ By sea: TO/FROM HELSINKI Eckerö Line - www.eckeroline.ee Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com Viking Line - www.vikingline.ee Linda Line Express www.lindaline.ee TO/FROM STOCKHOLM Tallink - www.tallinksilja.com TO/FROM ST. PETERSBURG St. Peter Line www.stpeterline.com From the Port of Tallinn to the city/airport: bus no. 2

Car Hire You don’t need to hire a car to get around the city of Tallinn, but a car is a great way to see the countryside and explore small towns. If you are arriving by plane, your most convenient option is to use one of the many rental companies at Tallinn Airport: ■ Budget – www.budget.ee ■ Europcar – www.europcar.ee ■ Hertz – www.hertz.ee ■ National – www.europcar.ee ■ Sixt Rent A Car – www.sixt.com

There are many other companies to use in Tallinn, some which have a car drop-off and pick-up option to your hotel or holiday apartment. For more information on driving in Estonia visit www.mnt.ee. ■ ■ ■ ■

Easy Car Rent – www.easycarrent.ee Hansarent – www.hansarent.ee Sir Autorent – www.sirrent.ee Yes Rent – www.yesrent.ee

■ By train: Train Station (Baltijaam) Toompuistee 37, Tallinn www.edel.ee www.gorail.ee From the train station to the city: tram no. 1, no. 2, or ten minutes on foot to the Old Town

Parking Tallinn’s taxi rates can vary drastically, so to avoid being ripped off remember to check the rates displayed on the window before getting in. For a full listing of taxi rates visit: www.taksod.ee The Tallinn Airport has an agreement with the following taxi companies: Tallinna Takso, Tulika Takso, and Tallink Takso. A journey from the airport to the city centre should cost between 7-10€, or slightly more in heavy traffic.

Parking in Tallinn can be confusing. There are public paid areas as well as private parking lots. The first 15 minutes of parking is free , if the driver is using a parking clock or written notice stating the start time – placed visibly on the windscreen of the vehicle. This does not apply to privately owned off-street car parks.

CITY CENTRE / KESKLINN: 0,375 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fr 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

DOWNTOWN / SÜDALINN: 1,20 / 15 minutes Paid parking: Mo - Fi 07:00 to 19:00; Sat 08:00 to 15:00 Parking is Free on Sundays and on public holidays

OLD TOWN / VANALINN: 1,50 / 15 minutes Paid parking around the clock Parking for motorcycles (two-wheeled vehicles) is free of charge in the public paid-parking areas of Tallinn. For more information: http://www.tallinn.ee/eng/Parkingin-Tallinn

■ By air: Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport (Lennujaam) Tartu mnt 101, Tallinn www.tallinn-airport.ee/eng From the airport to the city: bus no. 2, no. 90K

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