Sweet & Savory

Soju: Everything you need to know about Korea's National Drink

By Layne Imada

The first time I tried soju was at a Korean barbecue spot many years ago. I was greeted with a strawberry-infused glass upon entering because our table was still being prepared. I took a sip, and discovered it tasted like a light Capri Sun: juicy, fruity, delightfully sweet, and devoid of the boozy sting I was anticipating. I then took about 6 more sips in quick succession before we reached our table. Multiple rounds were ordered throughout our meal, and I do not remember dessert. As a matter of fact, I don’t remember how we got home!

Flash forward to a more non-formal after work team dinner in 2017. Myself and my staff had just sat down for some bibimbap, and our host whips out a bottle of cloudy, clear liquid and pours us shots. “Soju!” he yells at us, and I freeze. Oh no! I imagined myself fading into blackness like the last time I drank this spirit. But, we cheer and throw our glasses back, and I’m met with a different flavor entirely. It’s floral and dry, and tastes like booze in the best way. It’s transcendent. This time, I sip it for the remainder of the meal, appreciating its complexity. When it’s time to go, we end up boosting the unfinished bottle—we couldn’t bear to let it go to waste.

Like many Americans, I didn’t know what to expect from soju, a Korean spirit that’s been around for centuries. When I watch K-dramas, K-movies, and even K-tv series, we always see soju being consumed by people at gatherings, be it social, work related, or even by themselves. It seems to be the norm, if you’re in Korea or amongst the Korean community, it’s almost religious. It’s not only traditional, but a huge part of the Korean culture. So, what’s the big deal with this drink? Everyone knows sake, but few know about soju. Hopefully we can shed some light on this liquid gold.

The national drink of Korea, soju is the best-selling liquor in the world by volume, and sales have only been growing in recent years. Long underrated in America, soju is finally starting to gain traction stateside. But, if you’ve never had the spirit, or even heard of it, here’s everything you need to know about soju to get acquainted.

What is Soju?

At its most basic, soju is a clear, 20-24 percent alcohol by volume (ABV) spirit. It’s from Korea, and is mostly consumed in Korea, Japan, and China, with Jinro being the most popular brand. Soju is neutral-tasting like vodka, but doesn’t have the harsh alcohol burn thanks to having around half the percentage of alcohol. Soju is traditionally consumed straight with food but, also mixes well into cocktails.

Another thing to know about soju is that the taste can vary considerably, thanks to lax laws regarding the ingredients used to make it. In general, soju resembles a low-alcohol, tasteless version of vodka, but it’s more viscous and a little sweeter.

It was first distilled in Korea during the 1300s. Historians believe that the Mongols brought the Persian technique of distilling arak to Korea. The word soju means “burned liquor,” referring to how the alcohol is distilled at a high temperature. Mild in flavor and typically distilled from rice—though I warn against buying from the “green bottle” low-quality producers, who fake the process with chemicals—it’s different varieties sit around 16 to 45 percent ABV. For context, that’s stronger than beer or wine, but less alcoholic than most vodkas. Flavors can vary and aren’t strictly traditional, though historically, natural flavors like plum were often added to temper the taste of alcohol.

Despite the worldwide sales numbers of soju, the spirit isn’t well known in the United States. With the rise of Korean food, however, that’s starting to change.

In America, soju has been seen as a distilled spirit that doesn’t follow the rules of a distilled spirit. It’s almost watered down, and it can be served with the same license as a beer and wine license.

Restaurants that want to serve soju don’t have to apply for (or pay for) expensive liquor licenses in New York and California. If a business has a beer and wine license, then it can sell soju. Restaurants can build low-alcohol cocktail lists by using soju as a vodka replacement, in turn boosting its popularity.

Soju hasn’t received the respect or elegance as sake but, it’s on the cusp. It’s just a matter of time until it breaks out.

How to drink soju traditionally

Like wine, soju is meant to be consumed with food, and vice versa. They have a word in Korea that we don’t have “Anju,” which means food that is specifically made to be consumed with alcohol. Soju goes especially well with barbecue, stews, and spicy meals. Think iconic dishes like Korean fried chicken or tteokbokki, or rice cakes in gochujang sauce. Some restaurants combine their supply with honey, Sprite, and fresh fruit for a more whimsical presentation and taste.

New soju drinkers can stick to another traditional Korean bar beverage: Somaek, maekju in Korean, combines soju and beer for a two-ingredient cocktail. The ratio preferred in Korean bars is three parts soju to seven parts lager, and is sometimes served in special glasses that mark the exact pours.

The bottom of the glass is tapped with a spoon to trigger the beer’s carbonation, which mixes the drink. But, whether you’ll be mixing drinks or drinking your soju straight, finding high-quality bottles are vital.

In addition to drinking it with food, the way it’s traditionally served is also important. You never pour your own soju; it’s always consumed as a communal drink. For the first drink, an older member in the group will pour some soju into a shot glass and hand it to you. You take that shot glass with two hands, turn your face to the side, so you aren’t making eye contact with the person who handed you the glass, and shoot it. After the first drink, glasses are filled up whenever they’re empty, and people pass the bottle around the table. You can sip it if you want, but shooting it is more common.

Soju brands available on the American market

I suggest the best bottlings in the US market right now are Yobo, Tokki, and Hwayo. Others are Charm, Hwa Yo 23, Hwa Yo 41, and Jinro. Explore what you like, just like wines and craft beers.

Charm: Distilled from rice, barley, sweet potatoes, and tapioca, Charm is made in Korea and has 20 percent alcohol by volume.

Hwa Yo 23: A premium Korean soju.Hwa Yo 41: A higher-alcohol-by-volume version of Hwa Yo 23 that sits at 41 percent alcohol by volume. Good for cocktails.

Jinro Chamisul: Made from a mix of rice, barley, and tapioca, this popular soju has 20.1 percent alcohol by volume.

Tokki: A premium rice soju made in Brooklyn using the traditional method. Has 23 percent alcohol by volume.

Yobo: A grape-based soju made in New York State. Has 23 percent alcohol by volume.