OF TA UNREALI

SCHAIPARELLI’S SURREALIST REVOLUTION ON THE RUNWAY

Allow me to begin with an explanation: I am not a gold person by any means. I almost find it to be a kind of defining aesthetic that is understood when looking at someone: they are either a gold person or a silver person. What I mean is what metal someone is drawn to when they choose their jewelry, or what compliments them when they wear it. Obviously, it’s all subjective: of course no one is defined to an aesthetic or box they must remain within. However, I have always been defiantly a silver person; almost all of my jewelry is silver and I will not mix metals. Despite the long endured and deeply rooted tradition of ordering an Aggie ring in gold, I chose silver not to be pretentious and above it all, but because I knew it would rarely find my finger in gold.

Despite all of this, my ongoing tense relationship with gold, when I look at the haute couture collections of Schiaparelli, I with no hesitation become a gold person.

For Maison Schiaparelli, gold is simply the tip of the iceberg. First launching knitwear in 1927 and fragrance in 1929, Elsa Schiaparelli began what would become an iconic fashion house. However, it was evident even from Schiaparelli’s first designs that Elsa had a surrealist itch to be scratched: from her original sweaters that gave the illusion of shirt detailing to her first collaboration in 1931 with the creation of the aspirin necklace. The construction of a necklace that was linked together by beads that resembled pain reliever tablets was only the beginning of Elsa’s journey of joining together fashion and surrealism.

It did not take long for the designer to gain recognition: it was evident the public had been waiting for someone to blend art and fashion in such a way. In 1934, Schiaparelli became the first female designer to grace the cover of Time Magazine. Just the next year in 1935, Schiaparelli would collaborate with Salvador Dalí, the first of many between the two. Schiaparelli was known to be influenced by many artists in the surrealist space and said that it released her, “From the boring reality of merely making a dress to sell.” Schiaparelli and Dalí would go on to make everything from the likes of a lobster-printed gown to a ruby-encrusted “mouth brooch” with pearls for teeth.

Amongst her work, Schiaparelli was known for her fragrances accompanied by unique and wacky bottles; one may recognize spring/summer haute couture collection. Additionally, Schiaparelli was known for notably including hand-sculpted animal heads which adorned themselves on multiple gowns. Perhaps one remembers Kylie Jenner waltzing into the show in one of these: one that was embellished with a lion’s head larger than Jenner’s own. Despite the boldness of the collection, Roseberry said that his inspiration came from self doubt: specifically the doubt one experiences when creating art. the late designer left; who was capable of bringing modernity to the surrealism that lived so vibrantly almost a century prior?

After a few collections under two creative directors, in 2019 Schiaparelli would bring on Texas-born Daniel Roseberry who spent a decade designing at Thom Browne. Since then, Roseberry has evoked the wonder of the fashion world and given insight into the beauty that surrealism can evoke.

The question was, how would Roseberry translate Schiaparelli’s heritage into a modern context? After such a hiatus, Elsa left big shoes to fill. How would Roseberry establish his own take on house motifs that came into existence so long ago? Roseberry’s recent spring/summer 2023 couture collection quickly gained virality for its’ bold elements,

On taking inspiration from Dante’s “Inferno,” Roseberry wrote, “it was how perfect a metaphor it provided for the torment that every artist or creative person experiences when we sit before the screen or the sketchpad or the dress form, when we have that moment in which we’re shaken by what we don’t know. When I’m stuck, I often take some comfort in thinking of Elsa Schiaparelli: the codes she created, the risks she took, are now the stuff of history and legend, and yet she too must have been uncertain, even scared, when she was inventing them.”

Roseberry quickly proved Schiaparelli’s couture capabilities, creating garments of meticulous and extraordinary craftsmanship that have rapidly spun the heads of the public. Schiaparelli showed its spring/ summer 2022 collection at the beginning of last year, their first show since the pandemic. The collection without a doubt demonstrated that Roseberry was powerfully here to stay, done almost entirely in Schiaparelli core elements of black, white, and gold. The creative director communicated that Schiaparelli couture encompasses the ethereal, the surreal, and of the otherworldly, and nothing less.

It almost seemed like Schiaparelli needed to come back down to Earth; Roseberry exceeded expectations when it came to custom-made garments worthy of the red carpet, but could he design for everyday wear? On Mar. 2, Schiaparelli exhibited its first ready-to-wear collection. Fans of fashion and industry professionals alike wondered if Roseberry could “dress down” the mystical universe he had conjured.

“Dress down” may not be the phrase: Schiaparelli proved far and wide that making garments for regular wear was certainly not outside their scope, yet executed them at haute couture standards. The collection, which included 34 looks, was for all walks of life yet was vividly Schiaparelli. Readyto-wear fall/winter 2023 featured the return of multiple surrealist house motifs, including the keyhole (featured on numerous handbags and a new clutch iteration), the iconic face bags (they are exactly what they sound like), and feet heels (you may have to google this one).

Schiaparelli proved that making and enjoying beautiful things does not have limitation; perhaps Roseberry’s point, despite the grandeur of it all, is that there is beauty in the grand and in the ordinary.

There are many reasons why I am enthralled by Daniel Roseberry’s work, but when I discovered his work at Schiaparelli, I was captivated by something I could not quite place. Now, when I remember looking at the golden sun look from the spring/summer 2022 couture collection for the first time, it has clicked. Schiaparelli, through Roseberry’s lens, has depicted the importance of creating things that are beautiful. This break, the one of creating art for art’s sake, is one that can be seen as frivolous. Clothing by nature is utilitarian; it serves a clear purpose. I challenge those who hold this school of thought to try and watch a Schiaparelli show — and to try and look away.

Writer: Aubrey Matson

Photographer: Parker Elkins

Design: Alli Powell

Model: Abby Boerm

Writer: Camryn Bacon

Photography: Peri Shaink

Design: Isabela Kaarto

Models: Haley Cox & Drew Martin

Life is not easy, nor is it fair. The film “La La Land” centers around two characters who have big dreams but face hardships in Hollywood. The idiosyncratic, almost entirely unpredictable journey between two people demonstrates the reality of life. The two-hour film, filled with songs and dances, was made to resonate with viewers and debunk the Hollywood fairy tale. Sebastian and Mia, the couple in the film, fall in love at first sight. The pursuit of both of their careers takes over their ability to prioritize their relationship; therefore, the happily ever after never happens, but they grow to meet many milestones throughout the movie. When two people share memories and a connection like no other, it can be hard letting go, but, letting go may open new doors to greater opportunities and lessons. Our most challenging moments are our best teachers.

Starting At the Bottom

If you reach a breaking point in your life, there’s only going up from there! Mia starts her career as a barista on the Warner Bros lot serving famous actresses. Sebastian, a piano player, has a longing to play jazz, but is stuck with an undesirable setlist at a local restaurant. The lofty dreams, and subpar jobs, bring the unlikely pair together. That’s how life works. The unexpected someone or something always comes out of nowhere, but changes our lives drastically. You start from the bottom and work your way to the top. Nothing in life is permanent; obstacles must be hurdled to reach your next achievement. There’s a fine line between dreams and reality, we strive for our dreams without realizing that it might not be realistic.

Conquering Self-Confidence

What makes us so special? There are billions of people in the world with many accomplishments; Nobel prize winners, feminists, authors, revolutionists, etc. Despite the fact that others win significant achievements, the power of small wins leads to larger goals. These small wins can be undermined by questioning ourselves. Second-guessing and self doubt roots in our fear of criticism from others Throughout the film, Mia went into auditions with self doubt; she calculated the cast director’s comments and compared herself to others. Additionally, Mia went into her auditions along with 20 other redheads and didn’t give herself credit for even showing up. Worrying about how others view us stems from the terror we might endure from rejection. Although hiding from social situations and challenging moments can seem safe, this lack of confidence affects our lives. Even then, the thought of no one wanting to see us succeed crosses our minds, but in reality, those around you want to see you at your best. It can be hard to eliminate self-depreciation and develop self-confidence but it is certainly possible. Build your self-esteem piece by piece and appreciate every accomplishment, no matter the significance. Even little wins are the most valued; believe in yourself.

Journey to Success

We often dream of the unknown without thinking about the journey to get there. Dreams take time to achieve, except if you are a main character in a rom-com who always gets that happily ever after. In this scenario, Mia continuously went to auditions rejection after rejection, not allowing doubt to get the best of her. Her grind for acting never stopped; she continued to practice, produced her play, landed her dream roles, and became a successful actress. Same for Sebastian; he wanted to play old jazz music his entire life, but got a job opportunity playing a modern jazz band on tour. He despised the music he played, yet sacrificed his love for old jazz to save money for his future bar. While each character demonstrates a different nonlinear journey, the message is still the same, some sacrifices, big and small, are required to succeed.

Humility Benefits Your Success

After Mia had worked in the cafe on the Warner Bros lot serving famous actresses, she was finally on the other side of the counter. She remained humble, tipping the new barista and greeting them with a smile. This admirable quality is definitely worth noting, as humility benefits one’s success. Humble people may learn better from their mistakes because they are willing to view themselves more clearly and receive constructive criticism. Humble people are more often than not, well liked! Most importantly, though, a key takeaway regarding humility is that we all start somewhere. Garnering success does not mean knocking down those in progress; recognize those who were rooting for you since the You can’t always get what you want, and that’s reality. At the end of the movie, Sebastian is visited by an older Mia in the same bar where they fell in love. Although their relationship is over, they have both found happiness and success. When Sebastian looks up from his piano and notices Mia, he thinks about what could’ve been. They did not end up together, but the love they shared is a fond memory and they were both able to find fulfillment in their own ways. For a movie where the cast bursts into choreographed dances and songs at inappropriate moments, sometimes even on top of cars on the 405 in LA traffic jams, it is one of the most touching movies to exist. At the movie’s end, the camera fades into an iris shot closing the scene, almost as if it were like going back to sleep just to wake up the next morning to relive the day again, back in reality.