Issuu

host the first FIFA World Cup of the 21st Century. Seoul is preparing for the members of the Global Village a World Cup the likes of which have never been seen before. a rworld Cup of CulturaiJ, a rworld Cup for the Environmentj, and a rworld Cup for the Citizens of the WorldJ

Aâ€˘.JA10EHtAI a, e

www. metro.seoul .kr

BEAUN OF KOREA

Golmu

.,_

Along with womanly virtue, a neat appearance, a graceful manner of speech, and an ability to weave, sewing was one of the essential virtues of women during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). Each stitch a woman sewed reflected her love and devotion, while the too!s she used for sewing were highly prized and cherished The sewing tools -needle, thread, thimble, scissors, ruler, searing iron, and flatiron-were called gyujung chilwu, or the seven (chit) companions of the women's quarters. Of these, the thimble, or golmu was placed on the forefinger to protect against being pricked while applying pressure and guiding the needle. Golmu were made out ofpatterned cloth, colored silk or leather. With their own hands, the women made thimbles of vaious shapes, but the basic shape was the half-moon. They first cut out a thimble pattern and covered it with attractive material. Then they decorated it with embroidery of

ume blossoms, peony blossoms, lotus flowers, pomegranates, butterflies, birds, bats, the yinyang symbol or good-fortune characters. Two colors could be combined on one side or different colors used for the front and back Though simple sewing tools, the thimbles so lovingl y created and d_ecorated with embroidery were treasured by women. In the late Joseon Dynasty document Gyujungchilwujaengnongi (Discourse A 1nong the Seven Companions of the Womens Quarters), the thimble is characterized as Grandmother Gamtu, a much respected woman with significant influence. To express their wishes for longevity, women filled their patchwork thimble cases with 100 handmade thimbles. These days the sight of a woman sitting over her sewing is indeed rare. But imagine a scene of a woman of the past sitting primly in her hanbok (traditional Korean dress) with a thimble on her finger and needle in handnothing could better epitomize elegance. +

KOREAN ART & CULTURE Covel ~ On May 31, the 2002 F!FA World Cup Korea/Japan opens for a month of competition among qualifying teams from 32 countries. This issue of KOREANA features the World Cup, Korean football, Korea's 10 World Cup stadiums, and the cities hosting the matches. On the cover is a scene of the opening ceremony of the 2002 FIFA World Cup held at Seoul World Cup Stadium.

c 0

2002 FIFA World Cup Kicks Off in Korea

4 2002 World Cup and Korean Football

Moon Dong-hoo

KOREA'S 10 VENUE CITIES

N T

12 :

Seoul · Park Kun-han lncheon · You Dong-hyun Suwon · Kim Woo-young Daejeon · Lee]eong-hun Daegu · Kim Sang-jip Ulsan · Kim Sun:fo Busan · Parkjae-kwan Jeonju ·Kim Sean-hi Gwangju · Lee Seong-bu Seogwipo ·Jeong Yong-Bok

40 KOREANAInternet Website http://www.kf.or.kr/koreana

2002 FIFA World Cup Stadiums in Korea Lee Eun-young

46 © The Korea Foundation 2002 All rights reserved . No part of d1is publication may be reproduced in any form without the prior permission of d1e Korea Foundation. The opinions expressed by the authors

do not necessarily represent those of the Foundarion.

Kim Youn-jung

52 SohnJin-chaek's World ofDrama

KOREANA , registered as a quarterly

magazine with the Ministry of Culture

Kim Moon-hwan

1033,

dated Aug. 8, 1987), is also published in Chinese'and Spanish.

Korean Pop Culture Craze Hallyu Sweeps through Asia

INTERVIEW

editors ofKOREANA or the Korea

and Tm1rism (Registntion No. Ba~

FOCUS

58 TRADITIONAL ARTISAN

Lee Hyeon-bae Lee Hyoung-kwon

KOREANA

ON THE ROAD

Trip to Andong Kim joo-young

Published quarterly by The Korea Foundation 13 76-1 Seocho 2-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoull37-072, Korea PUBLISHER

Lee In-ho

MARKETS

Seoul Gyeong-dong Herbal Medicine Mart Kim Mi-ok

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

KimJae-kyu EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Park J eong-yeop

CUISINE

Tastes and Refinement of Korean Cuisine Koo Chun-sur

ART DIRECTOR

Park Seung-u ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Kim Young-uk EDITORIAL BOARD

84 DISCOVERING KOREA

Fireflies ofKorea Kimjong Gill

Hahn Myung-hee, Han Kyung-koo, Kim 1-Jwa-young, Kim Moon-hwan,

Lee Chong-suk, ShimJae-ryong, Yu Hong-june SUBSCRIPTION

Price for annual subscription: Korea W18,000, Asia by air US$33,

88 MASTERPIECES

Blue and White Faceted Porcelain Bottle with Bamboo Design ]eon Seung-Chang

90 ART REVIEW

Special Exhibition of]oseon Dynasty Genre Paintings Sojae-gu

elsewhere by air USS37 Price per issue in Korea W4,500 Subscription/Circulation Correspondence: OVERSEAS

The Korea Fou ndation 1376-1 Seocho 2-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul137-072, Korea Tel: 82-2-3463-5684 Fax: 82-2-3463-6086 DOMESTIC

Myung-Hwa Sa C.P.O. Box

78~

Seoul

Tel: 82-2-2274-5443 Fax: 82-2-2274-7822 ADVERTISING

N W Planning Information 208 Hannam-dong Yongsan-gu , Seoul Tel: 82-2-749-5028 - 9 Fax: 82-2-749-9305 lAYOUT & DESIGN

Art Space Korea Co., Ltd. 31 Shingyo-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul Tel: 82-2-734-7181 Fax: 82-2-737-9377 Printed in March 2002 by Samsung Moonwha Printing Co. 167-29, Hwayang-dong, Seongdo ng-gu, Seoul Tel: 82-2-468-0361/5

he year 2002, filled with hope and inspiration, is when Korea hosts the 2002 World Cup. May 31, the opening day of the month-long football finals that thrill the hearts of people worldwide, is drawing near. The attraction of the World Cup is that the passion and excitement of people from around the world are blended together in a melting pot, transcending such barriers as race, religion and ideology, with all eyes being focused on the movement of the ball. Capturing the attention of the entire world is something only possible with the magic of the World Cup.

The 12th World Cup finals held in Spain in 1982, which occurred between the Moscow Olympics in 1980, that was a downscaled event due to the Soviet Union's invasion of Afghanistan, and the Los Angeles Olympics in 1984, included the participation of 109 countries. This demonstrates that the World Cup is indeed an international sporting festival in the true sense of the word The 2002 World Cup is expected to contribute greatly to world peace and harmony, which is the hope and common goal of all people. Such hopes seem well grounded since the World Cup has served to unite the people of the world while promoting friendship and goodwill transcending national boundaries. Moreover, the 2002 World Cup, coming after.'a year marked by acts of terrorism, is looked upon as a turning point to help reuriite the global community. Though the World Cup is a one-sport evn~ the fan enthusiasm and passion it arouses surpasses even that of the Olympics.

AhnJung-hwan, a member of the national soccer team (above) Professional league soccer match at the Suwon World Cup Stadium (below).

The 1994 World Cup finals held in the United States attracted a cumulative total of 32 billion television viewers, 6 billion more than the Barcelona Olympics just two years earlier, which was watched by an estimated 26 billion people. This means that the World Cup drew more viewers than the Olympics plus the U.S. Super Bowl and World Series combined With the 2002 World Cup being held in the 21st century information age, coverage will undoubtedly include the Internet, TV, and other high-tech multimedia Moreover, with China qualifying for the finals for the first time, the total number of TV viewers the world over could surpass 60 billion, based on the number of TVs now existing in China. With the development of mass media in tl).e 20th century, the World Cup has grown into more than just a sporting event; it is indeed real-life drama and the "greateSt show on earth." The 2002 World Cup will be different

from other World Cup finals in several respects. Until now, the World Cup has been held only in Europe as well as North and South America, making this the first time for it to be held in Asia. Moreover, this is the first time for the finals to be jointly hosted by two countries while the world watches closely to see if Korea and Japan can successfully host this global extravaganza From the perspective of the co-hosts, Korea and Japan, it is the first time in their long history of exchange of more than 1,400 years that they are cooperating as partners on such a high-profile undertaking. Accordingly, this year's World Cup is expected to contribute much to maturing relations between the two countries while boosting mutual understanding and cooperation.

History of Korean Football Football was introduced to Korea

more than 100 years ago in the late 19th century. Modern football, which originated in Britain, is believed to have been brought to Korea by British sailors when the British ship Flying Fish landed at Incheon harbor. However, forma l instruction in football did not begin until 1904 when it was adopted as a subject at the Royal Foreign Language School. Football was first played in Korea in accordance with international standards and regulations in 1920. Then on September 19, 1933 the Joseon Football Association (JFA) was inaugurated, providing a framework for the systematic development of football in Korea. With Korea being a poor country at that time, football quickly became popular among the general populace since it required no special equipment. In addition, the Korean temperament was especially well-suited to the game, which requires athleticism and a competitive spirit.

In 1948, the JF A was renamed the Korean Football Association and it became a member of FIFA (Federation Internationale de Football Association) the same year and a member country of the AFC (Asian Football Confederation) in 1954. Korea first participated in international football competition at the 1948 London Olympics and then in 1954 qualified for its firstever World Cup finals, which were held in Switzerland. Korea developed into a leading football nation in Asia, winning the first two Asian Cups in 1956 and 1960. With subsequent victories in various competitions such as the Merdeka Cup, King's Cup, Asian Games, and Asian Youth Championships, Korea distinguished itself as ~ Âˇ true Asian football power. In 1983, a Korean professional football league, Âˇ called Super League, was launched, which served not only to provide sports entertainment for Koreans

but boost the level of Korean football as well. As the first pro football league in Asia, the Super League also helped pave the way for the start of similar leagues around Asia From the 1986 World Cup in Mexico to the 1998 finals in France, Korea qualified for four successive World Cup finals, making it the most successful Asian country in terms of World Cup appearances (five times). Korean players have also been active on the international scene, starting with Cha Bum-kun who joined the Bundesliga in Germany in 1979 and Huh Jung-moo playing in the Netherlands league in 1980. These days, a growing number of young Korean pla yers, including Ahn Jung-hwan (AC Perugia, Italy) and Seol Ki-hyeon (RSC Anderlecht, Belgium) joined European teams in a quest to become international football stars. With the passing of 120 years since

KOWOC Chairman Chung Mong-joon (second from left) and Japanese Soccer Association Chairman Shun-ichiro Okano (third from left) receive the World Cup trophy from FIFA at the World Cup tournament draw.

football was first introduced to the Korean peninsula, Korea's proud football history will be culminated this year with the hosting of the World Cup, the world's ultimate football competition. The joint hosting of the 2002 World Cup by Korea and Japan is expected to serve as an invaluable opportunity to overcome the past history of confrontation and rivalry between the two countries such that, through football, they together can open a new chapter for promoting harmony and peace throughout the world Of note, football in Korea is bolstered by the Korean people's passion for the game and the players' indomitable determination and fighting spirit. "If the football team you root for wins on Saturday, then you can go to work happy on Monday." As this saying suggests, the hosting of the World Cup and the team's good showing in the competition will noticeably boost the morale of the people and thus have a positive impact on national solidarity. As such, Korea is going all-out to help the national team advance to the second round of this year's World Cup; Korea has already recruited Guus Hiddink, a Dutchman, as new head coach. When France was defeated in the European regional preliminaries and failed to qualify for the 1994 World Cup in the United States, few dreamed that it would go on to win the 1998 championship. But France's victory on its home turf was made possible by the impassioned support of its people.

Significance of the World Cup The World Cup is not just a football competition but a mega-tourism event capable of attracting visitors from all over the world In contrast to the Olympics, the hosting of the World Cup matches will include a number of venues located throughout the country. It is thus an ideal opportunity for the regional host cities to promote themselves through the international media During the evn~ the host 10

The 2002 World Cup will be different from other World Cup finals in several respects. Until now, the World Cup has been held only in Europe as well as North and South America, making this the first time for it to be held in Asia. Moreover, this is the first time for the finals to be jointly hosted by two countries while the world watches closely to see if Korea and Japan can successfully host this global extravaganza.

country is publicized around the world through 1:he global media, which invariably highlights the country's culture, tourism and industry. In this new global age, the reputation and international standing of a regional city will be determined by how well it can make its name known around the world. Thanks to the World Cup, the host cities will have a golden oppottunity to promote themselves as international tourist attractions and establish busi-

ness relations with foreign enterprises. Needless to say, the ten host cities of Korea are doing their utmost to use the World Cup to distinguish themselves as respected members of the global community. In this regard, the potential impact of the World Cup has been evidenced by the successful experiences of recent host nations. In 1998, France enjoyed great success in promoting its national image through the World Cup. The international publicity of its host cities helped to show the world that there was much more to France than just Paris, with cities such as Lyon, Marseilles and Nantes becoming much more widely known. Related to the 1992 World Cup, Spain promoted the catchphrase "Spain is Different" in a concerted eff01t to overcome the negative images of its 40 years under Generalissimo Franco. Thereafter, Spain has rapidly adopted globalization trends, while in the ten years following the World Cup its per capita GNP has doubled Spain has also become a popular tourist destination known as the "land of the sun. " Unlike previous World Cup finals, this year's event is being held amid overall economic downturns in Korea and Japan. Therefore, it is all the more important for the Wodd Cup to serve as a means for invigorating national morale and providing impetus for an economic turnaround. With the aftereffects of the U.S. terrorist attacks adding uncertainty to an already struggling economic situation, the most significant contribution of the 2002 World Cup would be to deliver a message of hope for not only Korea and Japan but the global economy as well. The opening day of the World Cup is right around the corner when the eyes and ears of the world will be focused on Korea, which is proud to be hosting its first international undertaking of this magnitude since the Seoul Olympics in 1988. Koreans are poised to make this World Cup the most successful finals ever. +

• KOREA'S 10 VEMUE CITIES CAPITAL

SEOUL Where Tradition and Modernity Meet in Harmony Park Kun-han Poet

ocated in the central region of the Korean peninsula, Seoul is the capital of Korea, and home to 10.3 million people. It is a city where the tradition and modernity of Korea meet in delicate harmony. The opening ceremony of the 2002 FIFA World Cup Games, being held for the first time in Asia, will take place in Seoul. The city sprawls to the north and the south, divided by the Han River running through its center. The graceful mountains that surround the city provide a scenic backdrop that changes with Korea's four distinct seasons. Seoul has served as Korea's capital for over 600 years, since 1394, and as such is well-established as the center of the country's politics, economy, industry, education, culture and transpottation. It is also an international megalopolis that has hosted such major events as the 1986 Asian Games and the 1988 Summer Olympics. With world--class conference facilities, a downtown air terminal for international travelers, and five-star hotels, Seoul is fully equipped to carry out domestic and global business functions. At the same time, it is also a cultural center, where a wide variety of events are held throughout the year in the many historical venues and cultural institutions around the city. 12

For its preparations for the 2002 Woda Cup Games, Seoul has completed construction of the state-of-the-art, multi· functional Seoul World Cup Stadium, the largest facility of its kind in Asia, and the development of Sangam Millennium City; afuturistic residential town, and Millennium Park With the experience gained from the successful hosting of the 1986 Asian Games and the 1988 Olympics, Seoul is

determined to be the ideal host for the 2002 World Cup Games and prove itself to the international community as a firstclass metropolis not only of the Far East but of the entire world As such, Seoul is seeking to re--create itself as a "human city" where people are the priority, a "Korean city" where 600 years of history lives on, and an "interna· tiona! city" where visitors from around the world can feel at home.

ATTRACTIONS

Gyeongbokgung Palace: Located on Sejongno, this was the royal palace of the Joseon Dynasty. Built in 1395, it burned down during the Japanese invasions in the 16th century and was rebuilt in 1867. Several of its buildings, including Geunjeongjeon, Jagyeongjeon, Gyeonghoeru, and Hyangwonjeong, have been designated national treasures. Changdeokgung Palace: Situated in Waryong-dong, Jongno-gu, this palace built in 1405 is the best preserved of the five major Joseon Dynasty palaces. It was - designated a World Cultural Heritage in 1996. Its noteworthy structures include Donhwamun, which is Seoul's oldest pavilion-style gate, along with Injeongjeon, Daejojeon and Seonjeongjeon. Its back garden, Biwon, or Secret Garden, , features quaint pavilions and a diversity of trees and flowers, showcasing the natural beauty of a traditional Korean garden. Other historical attractions include the Independence Gate on Uijuro in Gyobuk-dong, Seodaemun-gu; Jongmyo (Royal Ancestral Shrine) in Hunjeong-

dong, Jongno-gu; Sajikdan Shrine in Sajikdong; Munmyo (Temple of Confucius) in Myeongnyun-dong; Bosingak Bell at Jongro-2-ga; Segeom-jeong in Sinyeongdong; Dongmyo in Sungin-dong, Dongdaemun-gu; Nakseongdae in Bongch~ -d ong, Gwanak-gu; and Jeonggyebi Memorial in Jeongneungdong, ~6ngbuk-. Jogyesa Temple: The head temple of Jogyejong, the largest Buddhist sect in Korea, its prominent buildings include the Daeungjeon and Deogwangjeon halls. A 500-year-Dld white pine and 400-yearold locust tree can be found on its grounds.

Amsa-dong Prehistoric Settlement This is the largest Neolithic dwelling site found in Korea. Visitors interested in experiencing life in those times can visit the Primitive Life Museum or enter a pit dwelling, where you can see for yourself what it was like to live in prehistoric times.

Namsan and its Vicinity Mt. Natnsan provides a lovely backdrop for Seoul. Halfway up the mountain, there is a gmÂˇden and pavilion, while at its foot is an mÂˇchitectural museum and the Natnsan Hanok Village, comprising five authentic traditional Korean houses. Atop its summit is the Seoul Tower, where visitors can enjoy a panoramic view of the Seoul metropolis.

National Folk Museum Traditional relics, focusing on folklore objects from the ]oseon Dynasty (13921910), are displayed. A museum for collecting, researching and preserving folk relics, the institution also functions as a facility for educating the public, holding a wide variety of exhibitions and lectures.

Buddha's Birthday Lantern Festival On the eighth day of the foUtth lunar month and the preceding Sunday, various activities are held at Jogyesa Temple and along Jongno, including lantern-making, outdoor market, games, bazaar for Buddhist items and a lantern parade.

Changing of the Royal Guards

Insa-dong A street where you can experience

A reenactment of the changing of the guards is performed at the Deoksugung and Changdeokgung palaces from 2 p.m. to 3:30p.m. (3 p.m. to 4:30p.m. in July and August), Tuesday through Sunday from March 24 to December 31.

the antique charm of a Seoul neighborhood of bygone days, lined with art galleries, antique shops, mulberry paper shops, frame shops, craft shops, ceramic studios, calligraphy and art studios, stores specializing in traditional stationery; restaurants serving traditional cuisine, and tearooms.

In addition, the Daehangno area in Dongsung-dong is another center of cultural activity, with numerous theaters and galleries, as well as the Korea Culture and Arts Foundation and the Dongsung Art Museum, drawing crowds daily. All manner of exhibitions, dance and music performances are staged here. With world-class conference facilities, a downtown air terminal for international travelers, and five-star hotels, Seoul is fully equipped to carry out domestic and global business functions. At the same time, it is also a cultural center, where a wide variety of events are held throughout the year in the many historical venues and cultural institutions around the city. 14

SHOPPING

Namdaemun Market

A popular tourist destination, this is Korea's largest traditional-style market. A good indicator of the ups and downs of the Korean economy, bargains await the shrewd shopper.

Itaewon

Myeong-dong

A magnet for bargain hunters, Itaewon has contributed much to Seoul's reputation as a shopper's paradise. The area is lined with various specialty shops, street vendors and restaurants. The streets are filled with shoppers and vendors during the day while at nigh~ crowds gather for entertainment.

The busiest and most sophisticated retail-commercial district in downtown Seoul, it boasts clothing stores, coffee shops and live music cafes. It is also ideal for pleasing your palate. +

Dongdaemun Market A modern version of the Korean marketplace, it includes fashion malls featuring the latest styles as well as crowdpleasing events and shows. 15

• KOREA'S 10 VENUE CITIES DYNAMIC

With a population of 2.6 million residents,

CITY

TRADE

You Dong-hyun Chief Editor, Incheon Metropolitan City Public Relations Office, Gcxxf Morning Incheon

lncheon is Korea's third-most populous citY, following Seoul and Busan. With an international harbor and all-new airport, it now serves as a dynamic transportation and logistics hub for Northeast Asia.

ncheon traces its history back to Michuhol, the government seat of Biryu Baekje. Biryu Baekje was founded by Biryu, who came south from the Goguryeo Kingdom (37 B.C.AD 668) about 19 B.C, with high hopes of building a new kingdom Bityu Baekje soon collapsed, however, and Incheon became an area over which the Goguryeo, Baekje (18 B.C-A.D.660), and Silla (57 B.C-AD935) kingdoms competed for countless years. During the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), the status of Incheon was elevated to Gyeongwon-bu for being the bitthplace of seven generations of queens. It then became Incheon-gun county during a reorganization of the local governing system on October 15, 1413, during the 13th year of the reign of King Taejong (r. 1400-1418) of the ]oseon Dynasty (1392-1910), when the name "Incheon" was used for the first time. October 15 is now celebrated as '1ncheon Citizens' Day." Incheon-gun was elevated to Incheon-clohobu in 1460, the sixth year of the reign of King Sejo (r.1455-1468).

I ·

Incheon underwent a sweeping transformation when, in the final years before its demise, the ]oseon Dynasty abandoned its long-held isolationist policy and opened Jemulpo Port to foreign trad~ ~ At that time an insignificant fishing village located in Daso-myeon, Jemulpo de~ _e loped into a strategic military site for Westet'n powers and the central stage for theit· political and diplomatic activities aftei; the Joseon Dynasty signed an amity and trade treaty with the United States at Hwadojin in May 1882, in addition to a series of trade accords with other countries. Incheon-bu became a city under the local autonomous system that was implemented in 1949 following Korea's liberation from Japanese colonial rule. After undergoing extensive development and transformation into an industrial city throughout the 1960s and 1970s, Incheon was designated a special city under the dit·ect administration of the central government in 1981. In 1995, Ganghwa-gun, Ongjin-gun, and Geomdan-myeon of Gimpo-gun were incorporated into Incheon, making it one of the largest metropolitan cities in Korea. With a population of 2.6 million residents, Incheon is Korea's thit·d-most populous city, following Seoul and Busan. With an international harbor and all-new ait·pott, it now serves as a dynamic transportation and logistics hub for Northeast Asia. Incheon International Airport, which opened in March 2001, is a megascale state-of-the-art international ait·por~ accommodating ultrasonic and super-

large aircraft as well as conventional planes around the clock Cargo and container ships from around the world dock at Incheon Harbor, which also offers regular ferry services to seven ports in China-Weihai, Tianjin, Qingdao, Dalian, Dandong, Shanghai, and Yantai. A city of open skies and seas, Incheon has long been a natural gathering place for people and materials from throughout Korea and the world. This has

enabled it to become an open city that embraces cultural diversity. Its harbor served as a gateway through which foreign culture was introduced, and eventually became home to a Japanese community and Chinatown district, as well as the consulates and trading companies of Western countries. It was also in Incheon that the nation's first train and telephone services were launched. After liberation from Japan, Incheon emerged as a key player in Korea's industrialization drive while attracting people from all parts of the country. When the Korean War broke out, many - refugees from North Korea resettled in Incheon. Because of this history, Incheon retains the elements of various cultures of neighboring countries, including China and Japan, as well as the traditional culture of inland areas such as Hwanghae' do province and Gyeonggi-do province, and the island influences of coastal areas of Ganghwa-gun and Ongjin-gun. Incheon has preserved and promoted

such traditional intangible cultural assets as Eunyul mask dance, samhyeon yulegak, music composed for six instruments, and "Incheon Geunhae Gaekga Norae" (West Sea Waterfront Song). In 1982, Incheon was designated to preserve and carry on the traditional Eunyul Mask Dance (Important Intangible Cultural 61), which originated in Asset No~ Eunyul, the center of western Hwanghae-do. Performances of traditional performing arts can be seen at the Subong Folk Outdoor Performing Area every Sunday wl1ile a variety of local festivals

and cultural events are staged in Incheon throughout the year. Incheon comprises 42 inhabited islands, including Yongyudo, Yeongheungdo, and Seonjaedo, which are connected to the mainland by a bridge network, as well as the more distant islands of Baengnyeongdo, Yeonpyeongdo, and Daecheongdo, and 112 uninhabited islands. Incheon's resort islands boast pristine beaches where visitors can swim, fish, observe various forms of sea life in the tidal flats, have a mud bath, and enjoy the sunset.

A rite to heaven is perlormed at the Chamseongdan altar atop Mt. Manisan on Ganghwado Island (left). Baengnyeongdo Island (top) Paeru Gate in lncheon's Chinatown (above) 17

From left, Gwangseongbo Fort, Ganghwado Island Cultural Festival, Goindol (Dolmen) Festival

Above all, Incheon features a wealth of noteworthy and well-preserved historical relics. Ganghwado, in particular, has such a rich historical heritage that it is called a museum without walls. Around the island are prehistoric relics attesting to Incheon's history as a provisional capital of Goryeo, as well as dolmen; Chamseongdan, an ancient stone altar for worshipping Dangun, the legendary founder of the Korean nation; the site of a royal Goryeo palace; and Hongneung Royal Tomb where the wife of King Gojong (r. 1213-1259), the 23rd king of the Goryeo Dynasty, is buried. Among the most prominent military Âˇrelics are Gwangseongbo Fortress, which was built in 1658 to defend against foreign invasions from the sea and was involved in a brief skirmish between Korea and the United States in 1871, and Deokjinjin Garrison. The center of Incheon is lined with architectural structures related to its harbor opening, including Jemulpo Gurakbu, a building used as a meeting place for foreigners, Incheon Post Office, a dormitory once occupied by foreign women missionaries, and Japan's 58 Bank. Also worth seeing are Korea's only Chinatown, recently designated a special tourism area, and the Incheon Landing Memorial Hall, with exhibits related to General Douglas MacArthur's decisive Incheon landing operation that turned the tide of the Korean War.

Seohaean Pungeoje Pungeoje, a ritual practiced by fishermen to honor gods of the sea and pray for an abundant catch, has become a 18

routine part of life in the harbor city of Incheon. Seohaean Pungeoje can be categorized into baeyeonsingut, which is performed on a fishing boat by a shaman to pray for the safety of the boat and its crew and a bountiful catch, and daedonggut, a communal rite to pray for the well-being of villagers. The shamanic rituals,Âˇ accompanied by singing and dancing, are performed two or thJee times a year at WeoImido and in the vicinity of Yeonan Harbor, which houses the passenger terminal for ferry services to InC:heon's popular resort islands. Meanwhile, the West Coast Village Festival, which is presented on several islands, includes a rite performed on Yeonpyeongdo to pay tribute to General Im Gyeong-eop (1594-1646), a distinguished general during the reign of King Injo (r. 1623-1649) of the Joseon Dynasty who is regarded as a protector of the island

Ganghwa Cultural Festival

producing the Tripitaka Koreana wooden printing blocks, to highlight the remarkable achievements of Korea's printing culture. A reenactment of the enthronement procession and coronation ceremony of King Cheoljong (r. 1849-1863), who was called the ''Bachelor of Ganghwa" before he ascended the throne, is also staged during the festival In addition, a traditional ritual is held on Mt. Manisan, a spiritual mountain, to worship Korea's legendary founder Dangun.

Hwadojin Festival Hwadojin, located in Hwasu-dong, Dong-gu, is a fortress that was originally built in preparation for the intrusion of "Western barbarians" toward the end of the ]oseon Dynasty. It is here that Korea signed its first amity and trade agreement with the United States. The Hwadojin Festival, held each May, features a reenactment of the signing of this agremn~ as well as performances of various folk arts, demonstrations of ceramic making, and traditional crafts.

Home to a variety of cultural relics, Ganghwa hosts an annual cultural festiWolmi Festival val in late September to promote its cultural heritage, which includes prehistoric Wolmido is a favorite resort area of dolmen and the carving of the Tripitaka . Incheon. Every weekend, it bustles witl1 . Korean.a printing blocks. The Dolmen visitors from all parts of the Seoul and Incheon metropolitan areas who come Festival, which takes place at the Dolmen Plaza in Bukgeun-ri, Hajeom-myeon, to enjoy the refreshing sea air. The Wolmi Festival is held annually in Ganghwa-gun, offers a glimpse of what September along the Street of Culture. it was like to live during the prehistoric age through demonstration programs The highlight of the festival is the specthat include digging below-ground sheltacular fireworks show that lights up the ters, producing stone axes, and lighting a night skies over the sea. There are a varifire. Along with related exhibitions, the ety of events including a dance contest Tripitaka Koreana Festival demonstrates for teenagers and performances of jazz, the painstaking process involved with pantominle, and contemporary dance. +

• KOREA'S 10 VENUE CITIES

CITY

FILIAL

PIETY

City of Festivals and World Cultural Heritage Hwaseong Kim Woo-young Managing Editor, Evegreen Suwon

he city of Suwon, adjacent to with a population of 1 million, boasts a rich history and culture dating back to prehistoric times. It is also known for galbi (barbecue ribs), a representative Korean food, and its variety of colorful art festivals held year-round. Ancient relics such as dolmen, stone tools and prehistoric dwellings uncovered in Suwon attest to the city's longtime existence. However, it was in 1796, when Jeongjo, the 22nd king of the ] oseon Dynasty (1392-1910), built the ·~ Hwaseong Fortress, that the Suwon of today began to take shape. During King "' Jeongjo's reign, Korea thrived artistically and culturally, with the latest technology in fortress construction from China and Japan being adopted in the construction of Hwaseong.

T Seou~

Hwaseong Fortress is a composite of sorts of a_flatland palace and a mountain fortress. Four imposing castle gates stand at the east, west, no1th and south walls, along with pedestals on the western summit of the mountain and atop the peaks where the king would stand to command his troops. With the Suwoncheon Stream flowing through the middle of the fortress, there is a water gate that opens onto a grand view, in addition to numerous defense structures all of a different design and pavilions situated all along the fortress perimeter. One of the city's poets has described Hwaseong as "a fortress so beautiful it hurts the eye." However, it is also a fortress of sorrow. When King Jeongjo was a young prince, his father, Crown Prince Sadoseja, was locked up in a wooden rice-

chest and left to die by his own father, King Yeongjo, because of opposing political factions. When King Jeongjo inherited the throne from Yeongjo, his grandfather, he moved his father's tomb to Suwon, considered one of the three most propitious sites in the country, in order to commemorate his tragic death. Thereafter, Jeongjo made regular trips to the city to visit his father's grave. So to accommodate the royal visits, the construction of Hwaseong was ordered, along with a temporary palace, in Suwon. Because 'these structures were built as a result of Jeongjo's love and loyalty to his father, Suwon is often referred 10 as "the city of filial piety." The temporary palace in Hwaseong was designed as a residence for Jeongjo after his retirement. Another reason for Jeongjo's attachment to Suwon were his plans· to use the dty as the headquarters for his ambitious political reforms. However, these reforms were never realized due to his untimely death. Hwaseong extends along the city's border, embracing its former center, making the fortress easily accessible from all parts of Suwon. It is open to the public at all hours, at no cost. Hwaseomun Gate ofHwaseong, a fortress included on UNESCO's World Heritage list (left) 19

With the picturesque Hwaseong embracing the city's downtown area, Suwon is an especially charming tourist destination. In 1997, UNESCO designated the fortress a World Cultural Heritage, citing that: "Hwaseong is an outstanding military structure of the early modern era, built on highly developed scientific concepts, unprecedented in both the East and the West." Suwon is home to a diversity of attractions in addition to Hwaseong. The Korean Folk Village, offering a re-creation of traditional Korean culture, is located nearby, along with the large-scale amusement park, Everland. Both are popular destinations of foreign tourists looking for a cultural experience or just fun. For those who might appreciate the beauty of Korean Buddhist temples and the atmosphere of Zen Buddhism, Yongjusa and other temples in the area are highly recommended. Anyone interested in estuary wetlands, now a fast-disappearing natural resource around the world, should head to Jebudo Island. Known not only for its estuaries and spectacular sunsets, but also for its parting of the sea, similar to the Red Sea miracle of Moses, which occurs twice a year, connecting Jebudo to the shore. When the waters part, the island can be reached either on foot or by vehicle.

Local delicacies include freshly-sliced raw fish and noodles in clam broth. In the summer, the beach is open to the public. The ceramics village nearby Suwon, which recently hosted the International Ceramics Expo, is also well worth a visit. Suwon is famed throughout the country for its galbi, barbecue ribs. Beef ribs are marinated in an all-natural sauce, then broiled over a charcoal fire, producing a heavenly savoriness, according to aficionados. The city is also home to bulhwi, a unique and "healthy" liquor made with dongchunghacho, a kind of mushroom known to have mystical qualities.

Suwon's annual festivals include the reenactment of King Jeongjo's procession to visit his father's grave, that involves sonie 3,000 participants dressed in period costuines; the Hwaseong Cultural Festival, the city's largest public art event; the:Suwon International Music Festival, featuring world-famous musicians; and the Hwaseong International Theater Festival, offering stages for the latest trends in the performing arts. This year, the festivals will be presented around the time of the World Cup matches, so that soccer enthusiasts, from home and abroad, can also enjoy these cultural activities during their stay in Suwon. The city of Suwon will operate the World Cup Plaza during the games so

With the picturesque Hwaseong embracing the city's downtown area, Suwon is an especially charming tourist destination. In 1997, UNESCO designated the fortress a World Cultural Heritage. 20

that fans who were unable to get tickets to the stadium can gather to watch the matches on large TV screens. A variety of free-of-charge performances will also be staged daily at the plaza, while the city will also operate a campsite there. In addition, Suwon is actively publicizing three special points to the soccer fans that visit the city. First, the "beautiful" public restrooms located throughout the city. For those skeptical about the fact that a restroom could be described as "beautiful," they should definitely check out the facilities. Second, a home-stay program is being offered to soccer fans visiting the city for the World Cup matches. Over 4,000 households, with members fluent in English, have signed up to host visitors in their homes, providing them with free meals and lodging. This program is an ideal opportunity for foreignet:s to experience Korean hospitality firsthand and return to their countries with fond lifelong memories. Third, the spectator seats of the Suwon World Cup Stadium are also a source of pride for the people of Suwon. The colorful arrangement of the seats not only makes for a visually striking scene, but is especially noteworthy in that all the seats have been purchased and installed with money donated by the residents of Suwon: children who collected money in piggy banks, shoe shiners who work the streets, maintenance workers, the elderly, regular office workers. One of the donors even contributed money left over from his fathe(s funeral wl1ile another donafed the entire . amount initially set aside for his 70th birthday celebration. Many other individuals participated in tl1e "Own Your Own Chair" campaign for the 40,000-seat Suwon World Cup Stadium. Touched by the enthusiasm and generosity of the people of Suwon, the FIFA chairman and citizens of cities around the world with ties to the city, sent in their own contributions. All of the names of contributors will be engraved onto the seats and preserved there for decades to come. +

â€˘ KOREA'S 10 VENUE CITIES CITY OF TECHNOLOGY AND SCIENCE

DAEJEO Lee]eong-hun World Cup Coordination Committee, Daejeon Metroplitan City aejeon, located at the heart of the Korean peninsula, is the nation's transportation center, the crossroads where the Gyeongbu and Honam railways and highways meet, and in close proximity to the Cheongju International Airport. It is also the nation's second administrative capital, with 11 of the government's ministries , now housed in the Daejeon Government Complex. The Daedeok Research Complex, a cradle of advanced technology and science, is home to 105 research institutes and some 16,000 research professionals. The complex also houses the secretariat of the World Technopolis Association (WT A), an international alliance of 23 science-minded cities. Located nearby Daejeon are Buyeo and Gongju, capitals of the ancient Âˇ ~ Baekje Kingdom (18 B.C.-AD. 660) where myriad cultural relics can be found, such ., as the tomb of King Muryeong and Nakhwaam (Falling Flowers Cliff). Other tourist destinations in the area include the Mt. Gyeryongsan National Park

Daejeon has clearly transformed itself into a future-oriented metropolis with 15 million residents. It boasts an incubation center for high-tech start-ups along with an information industry equipped with state-of-the-art research facilities. In 1993, the city hosted the Daejeon Expo un~ e r the theme, "Toward a New Leap Forward," which attracted some 14 million visitors from Korea and abroad. The or!gimil Expo site has since been converted into the Expo Science Park, where stt1dents can find inspiration and hope in science and the future. The Daejeon World Cup Stadium is equipped with the latest communication and broadcasting facilities, ideal for staging not only sporting events but also

concerts, large-scale assemblies and other outdoor events. After the World Cup Games, the stadium will be fully utilized for a wide range of national and international events, in addition to being available to the public as a commercial, cultural and athletic facility. During the World Cup Games, the city of Daejeon will focus on presenting foreign visitors with various oppOI:tunities to experience Korean customs and culture firsthand through traditional cultural events staged throughout the city. These activities include streets parades by military bands and royal court troupes, folk art performances by the nations with teams competing in World Cup matches in Daejeon, traditional craft

The Daedeok Valley R&D Complex (right) and the Venture Industry Monument erected to commemorate the renaming ofDaedeok Valley (below)

Daejeon has clearly transformed itself into a future-oriented metropolis with 1.5 million residents. It boasts an incubation center for high-tech start-ups along with an information industry equipped with state-of-the-art research facilities. 21

workshops, traditional cultural programs, and folk games from the Daejeon region. The Expo Science Park will feature special programs such as the Science Festival, aimed at promoting the fun of modern science, and the 2002 Daejeon Robot Festival.

Daedeok Valley: Daejeon's Daedeok Valley is the center of Korea's high technology industry, comparable to California's Silicon Valley and Japan's Zukuba. Also located in the Daedeok Valley Complex are the Expo Science Park, National Science Center, Currency Museum and Korea Institute for Science and Technology, which make Daejeon Korea's undisputed mecca of science education and research.

Yuseong Hot Springs A must-experience for all visitors to Daejeon is a visit to the Yuseong Hot Springs. The water, pumped up from 200 meters underground, is rich in calcium, potassium, carbonic acid, sulphate, silicic acid and bicarbonate, which is revered as a remedy for skin ailments and neurological diseases. There are over 100 lodging facilities in the Yuseong aJea, including 12 tourist hotels. The hot springs was designated a special tourism zone in 1994.

Constructed for the 1993 Expo, the 557,700-square-meter Expo park is now a science theme park The Park, comprising the Hanbit Tower, Earth Pavilion and North Korea Pavilion, is transformed into a colorful and exotic venue at night, with flower gardens, dynamic water fountains and flashy fireworks. Located next to the park is Kkumdori Land, the central region's largest amusement facility.

Since 1983, this folk cultural festival has been held in and around Daejeon every October. Its activities are intended to encourage public participation and promote a sense of community as people watch, listen and enjoy.

Daejeon Science Festival

M~.

Expo Park

Hanbat Cultural Festival

Sikjangsan

Daejeon's guardian mountain, Mt. Sil<:jangsan watches over the city from its eastern end. From its summit, you can look out at the bustling city center, Mt. Bomunsan to the east, Mt. Gyejoksan to the north and the scenic Daecheong Lake to -the northeast. The mountain marked the border between the Baekje and Silla kingdoms during the Three Kingdoms period, and used to be known as an area with plentiful resources where people could live in comfort.

Korea's biggest science festival, the Daejeon Science Festival held at the Daejeon Expo Park is worthwhile attending, regardless of your interest 1n science. Various activities for experiencing science from as many dimensions as possible are offered, from science found in everyday life to traditional scientific applications.

Gapcheon Cultural Festival Daejeon's biggest and best offering of traditional folk games, the Gapcheon . Cultural Festival is staged to rekindle interest in Korea's cultural roots and introduce traditional Korean games. It is held along the banks of the Gapcheon, the main waterway of the Seo-gu district. Festival events include folk games, traditional performances, and a family entertainment competition among residents of local apartment complexes. +

â€˘ KOREA'S 10 VENUE CITIES INTERNATIONAL CITY OF FASHION

DAEGU L Kim Sang-jip

A fashion show at the Daegu Textile Expo

Public Relations Office, Daegu Metropolitan City

ocated in the inland area of the peninsula's southeastern region, Daegu, Korea's fourth-largest city, is especially rich in history and culture. In particular, the city has preserved the traditions of the ancient Gaya (A.D. 42-562) and Silla (57 B.C.-A.D. 935) kingdoms, the Buddhist culture of the Goguryeo Dynasty (918-1392) and the Confucian culture of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). Now a metropolis of 2.5 million people, Daegu started out as a village some 3,000 years ago, which by the first century B.C. had developed into a tribal state known as Dalgubeol or Dalgubul. It continued to develop throughout the Silla and Goryeo periods, when in 1601 under King Seonjo of ]oseon, the Gyeongsanggamyeong, the government body responsible for the administrative and military affairs for the entire province of Gyeongsang-do was established in Daegu.

Around the Mt. Palgongsan area, considered sacred by Buddhists, there are several temples including Pagyesa and Donghwasa, home to the largest stone Buddha in the world. Other stone artifacts and Buddhist statuary such as the Gwanbong Stone-carved Sitting Buddha, also known as the Gatbawi Buddha (Treasu ~ No. 431), are representative of the wealth of Buddhist culture that once flourished in the area. In the Dalseong area, once the center of Conftician culture during the Joseon Dynasty, there are numerous ]oseon remains including Dodong Seowon, Yuksinsa Shrine, Namyeong Mun family estate, and Gyeongju Choi family estate in Otgol. Following in the tradition of the Daegu Yangnyeongsi Market, wellknown since the Joseon Dynasty as the distribution and trading center for herbal medicine ingredients, Yakjeon Street is today lined with herbal medicine clinics,

Foreign tourists at Daegu's YangnyeongTraditional Medicine Market

pharmacies and trading companies. Every year, the Yangnyeongsi Festival is held here to preserve and celebrate the legacy of herbal medicine. Daegu is also known as a city of textile and high fashion. Korea's standing as the world's leading manufacturer of synthetic fiber is attributable in large part to the 42 percent of this production that comes from Daegu and its vicinity. rn an effort to systematically promote its fashion design and textile industries, the city of Daegu is currently implementing a five-year development plan (1999-2003) for boosting the regional textile industry. The fruits of these efforts are showcased every year in March at the Daegu International Textile Expo. Geographically, Daegu sits in a basin surrounded on four sides by the Palgongsan and Biseulsan mountains. Its downtown has grown along the Geumhogang River and Sincheon Stream. The Sincheon flows from south to north through the city's center to join the Geumhogang, which flows from east to west and joins the Nakdonggang. The surrounding geography has significantly influenced the city's history and the lives of its people. The abundant waters of the Nakdonggang helped Daegu to thrive as an industrial center. The mountains on four sides mean particularly cold winters and hot summers for the city, resulting in a continental and conservative temperament of its people. Gyeongju, the ancient cultural city, Pohang, Korea 's steel capital, and Andong, the center of Confucian culture, are in the vicinity of Daegu. 23

Mt. Palgongsan The protector of Daegu, Mt. Palgongsan embraces the city along its northeast border. The people of Daegu hike this mountain as if it were a small hill, but its highest peak reaches an impressive 1,192 meters above sea level. The mountain's ridgeline extends over 20 kilometers, while from the main peak Birobong peaks spread out in all different directions.

Daegu Hyanggyo A public education institution established during the joseon Dynasty, the Daegu Hyanggyo also functioned as a Confucian shrine, housing the memorial tablets of Confucius and other Confucian sages. In the past, the Daegu Hyanggyo was utilized not only as a central educational facility for Confucian teachings but also a research center for local Confucian scholars. Today, it specializes in promoting traditional culture such as instruction in Chinese characters, formal etiquette, and traditional marriage ceremonies.

tombs dating from the fifth to sixth century. Designated Cultural Relic No. 262 by theÂˇ:government, the site is assumed to have been a cemetery for the region's ruling elite during the Gaya Kingdom and Three Kingdoms period (1st century B.C.-AD. 7th century).

Apsan Park Mt. Apsan, also called Biseulsan and Daedeoksan, is located within 4.5 kilometers from the city center and boasts out-

Dalgubeol Festival Daegu's largest and most colorful festival, the Dalgubeol Festival is held every October throughout the city. In addition to distinctive local events such as bull fights and a tug-of-war, various performances and exhibitions are held at venues around the city including Duryu Park, the Culture and Arts Center, and the Citizens' Center.

Y angneongsi Festival A cultural program aimed at keeping alive the legacy of Daegu's 350-year-old Yangneongsi Herbal Medicine Market,

Ancient Tomb Site in Bullo-dong Located near the entrance to Mt. Palgongsan, this tomb site houses 211

standing scenery, which makes it a popular rest spot for Daegu residents. It features a 330,000-square-meter naturallyformed oak and white pine forest that is home to 571 plant species. 24

the festival is staged every May along Yakjeon Street, where the Yangneongsi Museum is located. Events include an

â€˘ KOREA'S 10 VENUE CITIES INDUSTRIAL

CAPITAL

ULSAN KimSun-jo Director of World Cup Games Planning, Ulsan Metropolitan City

herbal plant and flower show featuring indigenous Korean medicinal plants, a traditional herbal medicine contest which highlights the traditional pharmacy practices, and other exhibitions and communal activities.

Textile and Fashion Festival Âˇ~

An effort designed to promote the local textile and fashion industry and Daegu's time-honored reputation as Korea's No. 1 textile manufacturer, the festival is held every spring and fall.

hanks to a mild climate and wealth of natural resources, the area around Ulsan has attracted large numbers of people since Neolithic times, a fact that can be confirmed by the many Neolithic and Bronze Age relics which have been unearthed in the region. During the Silla Kingdom (57 B.C.-A.D. 935), the area served-as a trading port for Gyeongju, as well as an entry point for people from Japan, China and even Arabia. The name Ulsan was first used in 1413, the 13th year of the reign of King Taejong of the Joseon Dynasty (13921910), when the region underwent various administrative reforms. Because of the region's proximity to Japan, during the Japanese invasion of 1592, Japanese general Kato Kiyomasa built the Seosaengposeong Fortress here. In 1962, parts of Ulsan county became the city of Ulsan; its population at the time was a

mere 80,000. After being designated a city, Ulsan grew at a rapid pace, and in 1997, was elevated to a metropolitan city. Today, Ulsan has a population of 1.1 million and encompasses an area of 1,056 square kilometers, which is 1.7 times that of Seoul. As home to some of Korea's wealthiest citizens, Ulsan's GDP per resident stands at $18,000, twice the national average. For the past 40 years, Ulsan has been a driving force behind Korea's economic growth, and even today, accounts for 12.2 percent of Korea's industrial production. Currently, Ulsan is home to Hyundai Motor, which manufactures 1.4 million vehicles a year; Hyunclai Heavy Industry, Korea's largest shipbuilder; SK, which operates the world's largest oil refinery; and Samsung SDI. In addition, multinational corporations such as BASF and Dupont also operate large-scale facilities in Ulsan.

Daegu Textile Expo Titled "Preview in Daegu," this international textile exposition features a wide range of functional and distinctive high-end textiles.

Bongsan Art Festival This festival is held every October on Bongsan Culture Street, Daegu's center for the arts. The galleries that line the alleys present a diverse variety of exhibitions and lectures while along the streets, huge paintings are created on the pavement. Other attractions include installation art and body painting.+ 25

Ulsan boasts more natural grass soccer fielcls-27 in all-than any other city in Korea. There are some 230 soccer clubs in the city while over 200 soccer teams annually visit Ulsan for training. It is no exaggeration to call this city the mecca of Korean soccer. Ulsan made the most of its soccer-related infrastructure when it successfully hosted training camps for teams from Brazil, Spain and Turkey in 2002, which is unprecedented not only among the 20 World Cup host cities in Korea and Japan, but in the entire history of the World Cup Games. Over 40 percent of Ulsan's population is comprised of people in their 20s and 30s, with the average age being 29.8, making Ulsan Korea's youngest city. As such, the atmosphere of the city is naturally energetic and dynamic, overflowing with youthful enthusiasm. Ulsan is a city of opportunity, where young people assume leadership roles in all fields: politics, society, culture, and business.

ATTRACTIONS

In the village of Cheonjeon-ri, there are some 200 fossils of dinosaurs that lived 100 million years ago during the early Cretaceous period, including the large plant-eating Ultrasaurus and mid-sized plant-eater Goseongosaurus. Other prehistoric relics include the Bangudae petroglyph, National Treasure No. 285, a worldrenowned cultural heritage. This rock

For the past 40 years, Ulsan has been a driving force behind Korea's economic growth, and even today, accounts for 12.2 percent of Korea's industrial production.

The SK Ulsan plant at night (top), Hyundai Motor's assembly lines (above), Daewangam, the undersea tomb of King Munmu of the Silla Kingdom (middle), Hyundai's shipyard (right)

,-CULTURAL FESTIVALS

carving depicts a wide range of scenes from life in prehistoric times including boats, fences, fishing nets and spears, as well as land animals such as deer, tigers and boars and sea creatures, including whales, seals and tortoises. Ulsan is part of the region that was once under the cultural influence of the Silla Kingdom, and is now home to numerous relics from the era. These include the stone stupa at Manghaesa Temple site, National Treasure No. 173; stupa at Seoknamsa Temple, National Treasure No. 369; stone-carved sitting Buddha at Ganwolsa Temple site, National Treasure No. 370; three-tier stone

stupa at Cheongsongsa Temple site, National .Treasure No. 382; stone stupa with carvings of the 12 Oriental zodiac animals at taehwasa Temple site, National Treasure No. 441; and Gwanmunseong, Historical Relic No. 48. Fronf Ganjeolgot Cape, you can witness the earliest sunrise on the entire Asian continent, while hiking Mt Gajisan, known as the Alps of the Yeongnam (southeast) region, promises to be a delightful experience as well Since Ulsan is the industrial capital of Korea, "industrial toms" are an ideal means of discovering the city. At Hyundai Heavy Industry, visitors can tour the world's largest shipyard, with an oil tanker three times the size of a soccer field and shipbuilding facilities as tall as three threestory buildings stacked atop each other. The world's largest oil refinery, operated by SK, and d1e world's largest auto assembly plant, the Hyundai Motor facilities, showcase d1e highlights of Korea's industrialization in full swing. Fo11y minutes to the north of Ulsan is Gyeongju, Korea's most popular cultural destination, where the city and its numerous attractions serve as a museum. Fifty minutes to the south is Korea's largest pott city, Busan, such tl1at an itineraty covering all d1ree cities will allow visitors to enjoy both d1e past and present, the culture and the industry of two different worlds.

Major cultural programs held annually in Ulsan include the Ulsan Whale Festival in May, Taehwagang River Festival in August, Korean Beef Bulgogi Festival in September, and Ulsan's biggest event of the year, the Cheoyong Cultural Festival in October. There is also a special series of activities being presented especially for the World Cup Games. From May 21 to June 30 at the World Cup Plaza, outside the Munsu Soccer Stadium, performances will be staged of not only Ulsan's folk arts but also those of Brazil, Turkey, Denmark and Uruguay to commemorate the four teams competing there. In Ulsan, on the days of matches June 1 (Uruguay vs. Denmark), June 3 (Brazil vs. Turkey) and June 21 (round of eight) there will be a diverse range of folk performances presented outside the stadium. Other attractions will include dancing water fountains, spectacular fireworks, and massive displays using state-of-the-art information technology. The premiere of the musical Cheoyong will be staged at the Ulsan Culture and Arts Center on May 27, while on June 19, "Symphony of Drums," a performance featuring traditional Korean percussion instruments, will also be presented. In addition to the cultural program organized by the city of Ulsan, the Spain Soccer Association will set up the Spain House at the Hyundai Department Store in Samsan-dong from May 20 to June 24, to coincide with the training camp period of the Spanish national team. At the Spain House, traditional Spanish performances such as the flamenco dance will be featured along with demonstrations by world-renowned performers and authentic Spanish cuisine. â€˘ 27

KOREA'S 10 VENUE CITIES BEAUTIFUL

PORT

CITY

USA Park}ae-kwan Chief Editor, The Busan Shibo

he city of Busan is blessed with a coastline of incomparable beauty. With the sea on three sides, very few cities in the world have such picturesque beaches and rocky cliffs so close by. The clean, clear ocean can be enjoyed everywhere in Busan: Haeundae Beach offers both surf and hot springs; Gwangalli Beach is vibrant with the romance and passion of youth; and Dadaepo Beach's tidal flat area has been deemed an internationally important ecological resource. Above all, Busan is the country's second-biggest city after Seoul and one of the three busiest ports in the world. It is also where the Nakdonggang River finally meets the sea after a lengthy journey of over 700 kilometers. As Korea's largest commercial port, half of the country's exports are shipped from Busan. It is Korea's secondlargest center of politics, economics, culture, and education while serving as the central axis of the southeast coastal industrial region that includes Pohang, Ulsan, Gimhae, Masan and Jinju. The city was first established as Busanpo in 1407 during the Joseon 28

Dynasty (1392-1910), under King Taejong, and has since developed into the gateway to Korea and a maritime hub in Pacific rim trade. The Chinese characters used in its name were supposedly changed from those of the original Busappo, meaning "rich mountain port," to those of its current name, meaning "cauldron mountain," because of the cauldron-shaped mountain situated at the heart of the city. People began to inhabit the Busan area in the Neolithic times. The spirit of the people of those ancient times can be felt at the Yeongdo Dongsam-dong shell mound (Historical Site No. 266). The southernmost shell mound is regarded as

a significant site for the study of Neolithic culture in Korea. Plain earthenware, fishing hooks, ground stone tools, half-moon shaped stone axes, and fish and animal bones have been excavate9 from the shell mound in great numbers. These items reveal the changes in Neolithic culture over time and reflect the local inhabitants' relations with neighboring areas. These valuable prehistoric relics are exhibited at the Busan Museum and Bokcheon Museum. In addition, Busan has endured a painful history of war. As the gateway to Korea, it was the entry point for Japanese invaders during the invasions led by Toyotomi Hideyoshi in 1592.

Geumjeongsanseong, a fortress built to defend against the Japanese invaders, remains preserved almost intact. It is Korea 's biggest fortress with walls standing 1.5 to 3 meters in height, forming a perimeter of 17,337 meters that covers an area of 8.2 square kilometers. It is not known exactly when the original fortification was built here, but the extant fortress is believed to have been constructed in 1703. It is representative of the staunch determination of the Busan people to resist the Japanese invaders. Busan is also the site of the UN. Park, a symbol of freedom and peace. The park is the only U.N. cemetery in the world so designated by the United Nations. Laid to rest here are the multinational troops from 16 countries who were killed in action during the Korean War (195CH953) defending freedom, creating a powerful appeal for world peace and friendship. Thanks to its fjord-style coastline and location at the mouth of the Nakdonggang River, Busan boasts exquisite natural scenery in addition to a wealth of historical sites and traditional attractions.

ATTRACTIONS

Popular attractions in and around Busan include Oryukdo, a group of islets located at the entrance to Busan Harbor, which is serviced by a ferry boat; Taejongdae, where the sight of waves crashing upon intriguing rock formations is memorable; Haeundae, which was named by the distinguished Silla scholar Choe Ji-won who was enthralled by the magnificent scenery and views; Eulsukdo, a habitat for a variety of migratory birds; and Beomeosa Temple on Mt. Geumjeongsan. The name Oryukdo, literally means "five-six island" This is because Oryukdo is made up of five islands but during high tide, one of the islands looks like two an~ ' thus there appears to be six islands. Taejongdae is Busan's rugged rocky coastline. The wide open sea and peculiai· rock formations such as Sinseon Bawi, so-named because it is said that the immortals (sinseon) stopped by there, and Mangbuseok, said to be a woman who turned into stone while waiting for her husband to return, are wondrous sights that can be compared to the island of Capri in the Bay of Naples. The name

Taejongdae is assumed to be associated with Taejong, King Muyeol, the 29th king of the Silla Kingdom. Already a popular tourist destination, Haeundae Beach is an ocean paradise. Thanks to its beautiful shoreline, which extends over 1.5 kilometers, and clear blue waters, Haeundae Beach has become an international tourist attraction It is a wonderful four-seasons resort with a radium-rich hot spring. Beyond Dalmaji Hill at Haeundae is Songjeong Beach, whose white sands, gentle slope and shallow water make it a favorite for family outings. The eastern end is a popular fishing spot. Last year the largest submarine-theme aquarium in Asia was opened at Haeundae. Beomeosa is an ancient temple more than 1,000 years old nestled at the foot of the beloved Mt. Geumjeongsan First built during the Silla Kingdom, its history actually goes back over 1,300 years. Its cultural treasures include a threestory stone pagoda (Treasure No. 250), stone lanterns and traditional paintings and calligraphy. Situated in a valley surrounded by dense forests, the temple attracts visitors year-round. Rising up in the middle of Gwangbok-dong in the heart of downtown Busan is Yongdusan Park, the landmark of Busan. Atop its summit the Busan Tower rises up 120 meters, offering a panoraniic view of the entire city; on a clear day you can catch a glimpse of Japan's Takeshima Island The park also includes a statue of Admiral Yi Sun-sin, a memorial tower for the April 19 Students' Revolution, the Busan·· citizen's bell, and a flower clock Taejongdae (left top) Beomeosa Temple (left below)

World Cup Match Eve Celebration June 1, Gwangalli Beach

Live e nt e rt a i.nm e n ~ fireworks, laser show, and fashion show of modernized hanbok

The Jagalchi Market, the biggest fish market in Korea, has a colorful history. It intimately reflects the joys and sorrows of Busan life while exuding the vigorous spirit of the Busan people. Jagalchi Market firmly established itself after the Korean War. The women shop proprietors are affectionately called 'Jagalchi Ajime." The fish markets are ideal settings to experience the rough-hewn but warmhearted nature of the people of Busan. SPECIAL EVENTS

--- -

Busan is also the host city of a variety of cultural festivals. The culture of Busan combines the characteristics of the land and the sea. The mask dances Dongnae yaryu and Suyeong yaryu, both of which have been designated important intangible cultural assets, feature sharpwitted satire and humor, while the Jwasuyeong eobangnori (a musical rite performed by fishermen) and the east coast Byeolsingut (a shaman ritual conducted for a plentiful catch) are expressive of the lives of the fisherman who depend on the sea. The Dongnae crane dance and daegum sanjo (flute compositions) are cultural resources that reflect the noble spirit and cultural refinement of ancient scholars. In August when the annual Busan International Film Festival takes place, the city turns into a cinema mecca. The Busan International Film Festival, first held in 1996, serves as a venue for the 30

showing and export of Asian films to the world. During the festival many renowned actors, directors, critics, and movie buffs from all over the world descend on Busan, which today is amol)g the foremost film festivals in Asia. The Busan Sea Festival is Korea's largest scale seaside festival, which shows off the distinguishing features of the city of Busan. It is presented annually in August at six beaches simultaneously. Various events, highlighting a meeting between the sea and culture, such as a citizen's parade, Queen of the Sea beauty pageant, seaside movie festival, seaside dance festival, and maritime literature symposium, turn Busan into a bubbling cauldron of energy and enthusiasm. This year Busan hosts a series of major international events, including early-round matches of the 2002 World Cup, the 2002 Asian Games, 2002 World Choir Olympics, and Asia Pacific Paraplegic Games. Accordingly, 2002 has been designated "Visit Busan Year" with active administrative support being extended to ensure that tourists to Busan will hav.e an especially pleasurable and comfortable stay. During the World Cup, a wide range of events will be held all over the city, including an international rock festival, exhibitions of regional specialties and designated products of local small businesses, mime performances, performance arts, a re-enactment of a procession of Joseon Dynasty envoys to Japan, a musical production, and an Asian short-film festival. +

Opening Ceremony for Busan's First Match and Related Events June 2, 4, 6, Busan Asiad Main Stadium

Dance performances, high school girls' marching band parade, sangmo hat dance, drum performance, and events focusing on spectator participation Busan International Rock Festival June 1-3, Dadaepo Beach

Rock festival under the theme of sea, youth and love, featuring popular rock groups from J3 countries Joseon Dynasty Re-creation Parade June 5, Vongdusan Park

Re-creation of Joseon Dynasty envoys to Japan parade to commemorate 2002 F1FA World Cup Musical]agalchi June 14-16, Busan Citizen's Roll

Musical depicting the joys and sorrows of the people of Busan Busan Asian Short-flim Festival May '}!; -June 2, 02 Cinema

Busan Street Festival June 1-9, Throughout Busan

Traditional costume parade, dance performances, and street events

â€˘ KOREA'S 10 VENUE CITIES CITY OF ART AND CULTURE

JEO Preserving its Cultural Roots Atnid Modernization

Pungnamje, Jeorlju's traditional cultural fustival

KimSeon-hi Director of Cultural Affairs,Jeonju City

he name Jeonju has a stable and static feel to it. Like any city deeply rooted in history and tradition, Jeonju's appearance is like that of a quiet and ancient place, its people proud and dignified Compared to the venerable cities of Europe, lined with 18th- and 19th-century buildings, Korea's ancient cities do not have that classic timeworn look; modern cities in Korea were mostly built in haste during Japanese colonial rule (1910-1945) and the industrialization that followed. ]eonju is one of the few Korean cities that has well preserved its ancient past,

largely due to the fact that during the ]oseon Dynasty (1392-1910) it was the capital of what is now known as the Honam region Moreover, as the ancestral home of the Jeonju Yi clan, the royal family of the ]oseon Dynasty, the city has carefully maintained much of the family's ancestral relics. Natural resources have always been plentiful from the wide plains that sunound the city, which helped cultivate a culture that valued refined cuisine and fine arts. It is said that during the Joseon era, a singer would not be acknowledged as a true virtuoso until he or she received a nod from audiences in Jeonju

The people of Jeonju live amid this sophisticated cultural infrastructure and possess a sense of pride for being bestowed with the artistic sensibilities of their ancestors. On the other hand, however,Jeonju is also regarded as a stagnant city, especially in terms of modern industrialization and the lack of jobs that has long been pushing the city's younger generation to seek employment elsewhere. Cunently, there are various projects underway to improve this situation, in addition to preserving the city's distinctive cultural and artistic characteristics as well as breathing new energy and dynamism into the city. Indeed, the ancient city of Jeonju will play host to matches of the 2002 FIFA World Cup finals in June. It is rather ironic that the World Cup games, the most popular and colorful international event, will be held in one of Korea's oldest and most tradition-laden artistic cities. Perhaps this signifies that the event reflects an encounter between the traditional and the modern, the old and the new. The World Cup games might be just what Jeonju needs to shed its image as an old, traditional city and transform itself into a historical and artistic city with a modern sensibility. The games are almost here, a tailor-made event to boost the new image of Jeonju 31

:; ATTRACTIONS

' Gyeonggijeon

It might be said that every stone in

Jeonju has a history of its own, but Gyeonggijeon (Historical Relic No. 339) is truly representative of the city's historical legacies. A pavilion built to enshrine a full-length portrait of King Taejo Yi Seong-gye .(National Treasure No. 931),

the founder-king of the Joseon Dyansty, Gyeonggijeon comprises Bonjeon, the main hall, which houses the portrait, and Jogyeongmyo, a shrine where the memorial tablets of Yi Han, the progenitor of the Jeonju Yi clan, and his wife are maintained. Next to the Bonjeon stands a t'estored version of Jeonjusago, an archives where the annals of the Joseon Dynasty were once stored. During the Japanese invasions in the 16th century, the annals and royal portraits in other regions were all destroyed, but the scholars of Jeonju, proudful of the ancestral home of the royal family, risked their lives to protect the irreplaceable annals and portrait. Thanks to their heroism, the annals were preserved, which UNESCO has recently designated as a World Cultural Heritage.

Jeonju Gaeksa, Pungnammun Gate, ]eon-dong Cathedral Gaeksa refers to a Joseon Dynasty guesthouse for visiting government officials or foreign envoys. In the main building of the Jeonju Gaeksa hangs a large calligraphy signboard written by an envoy from China that reads ''House of Pung Pae:' As the words ''Pung" and ''Pae" refer to the two prefectures in China where Emperor Taizong of Tang China was born and raised, this indicates that Jeonju is the ancestral home of a royal family. Pungnammun Gate is the last remaining vestige of Jeonjubuseong, Jeonju's provincial fortress. Nowadays the bell tower of the gate serves as the venue for the bell-tolling ceremony and related New YeatJs Eve celebrations. The calligraphy on its signboard reads "The Premier Fortress of Honam," a source of Jeonju pride. This is where the impressive overpassat the expressway exit for Jeonju at the Jeonju Tollgate got its name "The Premier Gate of Honam."

Pan Asia Paper Museum, Mt. Chimyeongjasan Scared Ground Korea's first and most genuine theme-oriented museum, the Pan Asia Paper Museum located inside the Pan Asia Paper Korea factory is a popular yearround destination for students, groups and families from around the country. For foreign visitors, this is a good place to experience traditional Korean culture through a modern mode of communication.

Jeonju is one of the few Korean cities that has well preserved its ancient past, largely due to the fact that during the Joseon Dynasty it was the capital of what is now known as the Honam region. Moreover, as the ancestral home of the Jeonju Yi clan, the royal family of the Joseon Dynasty, the city has carefully maintained much of the family's ancestral relics. 32

For Catholics, Jeonju is a city of sacrifice and martyrdom. Mt. Chimyeongjasan Scared Ground (Local Monument No. 68) is home to the world's one and only virgin couple's grave, as well as Green Rock, Jeondong Cathedral, and the Supjeongi Sacred Ground. Adherents make pilgrimages to these sites all year long.

Cultural Resources around Korea's Largest Hanok Village There are a variety of attractions nearby, including the Jeonju lixJ, Deokjin Park, where the lotus pond becomes a spectacle of blossoms in late-July, and Namgosanseong Fortress, where young Gyeon Hwon dreamed of building a dynasty. Among the attractions within an hour's drive of Jeonju are Mt. Maisan in Jinan, known for its stone pagodas; Gwisinsa Temple in Gimje, which appears in a popular work of fiction by Yang Gwi-ja; the jewelry complex in Iksan; and Geumsansa Temple in Gimje, the headquatters for the Maitreya-worshiping sect of Buddhism.

be set up at Taejc:rro Boulevard, recently designated Culture Street. And a variety of programs will be held at other venues, including Pungnammun Gate, the local Confucian school, Omokdae Hill and Jeondong Cathedral. The Paper Festival at Gyeonggijeon will feature the Traditional Mulberry Paper Fashion Show, Mulberry Paper Craft Show, Traditional Papermaking Workshop, and Mulberry Paper Craft Workshop.

SPECIAL EVENTS

During the time of the 2002 Woriel Cup matches, the city of Jeonju will present four consecutive cultural festivals. ._ The Jeonju International Film Festival, which has since emerged as one of Korea's top three film festivals, will be ., held April 26-May 2; Pungnamje, a festival of traditional culture and arts, will be staged June 8-16; the Paper Culture Festival featuring the craft of handmade paper art works will be presented June 7-13; and the Jeonju Daesaseup Contest,

which serves as a debut stage for young musicians specializing in traditional music, will be held in May. The theme for this year's Jeonju International Film Festival is "War and Film," reflecting the winds of war that have swept across the globe following the September 11 terrorist attacks in the United States. The festival's diverse film offerings include alternative films from around the world, independent films from Asia, Korean films, movies for the entire family, and much more. During the Pungnamje, a folk crafts market will

Jeonju Daesaseup Nori features traditional Korean music and dance

The cultural events planned specifically for the World Cup games include a multi-dimensional performance combining the traditional SO[!fJ (drum) dance and sangmo farmers' hat dance, to be staged at the opening ceremony of the first match in Jeonju on June 7. The Jeonju Metropolitan Performing Troupe will perform the musical Honbul (Fire of Spirit), adapted from an epic novel of the same title. Throughout the games, a total of 21local and regional cultural and arts groups will present their own distinctive performances. + 33

II KOREA'S 10 VENUE CITIES

CITY OF CULTURE, ARTS AND PATRIOTISM

GJU Lee Seongcbu Poet

Âˇ-

wangju is Korea's fifth-largest city and the center of the peninsula's southwestern region. A wide range of Bronze Age and Iron Age relics uncovered in the area indicate that man has lived here since prehistoric times. During the Three Han (Mahan, Jinhan, Byeonhan) period, the area was part of the Mahan territory. It then became part of the Baekje Kingdom during the Three Kingdoms period (1st century B.C.-AD. 7th century), and after the fall of Baekje, it became Mujinju under the Unified Silla Kingdom (668-935). Toward the end of Silla, Gyeonhwon iÂˇose to power here and after moving to Jeonju, founded Later Baekje. The city was named Gwangju by Wang Geon, the founder of the Goryeo Dynasty (9181392), after which it went through various changes in name and administrative status: Haeyang-hyeon, Ik-ju, Gwangju-

mok, Mujin-bu, Mujin-gun, and Gwangsanhyeon. In 1931, at the height of Japanese colonial rule, it became Gwangju-eup, in 1935, Gwangju-bu, and finally Gwangju in 1949. In 1986, it was designated jikhalsi, a city under direct supervision of the central government. The city now encompasses an area of 510 square lillometers and its resident population is some 1.4 million. Mudeungsan (1,187 meters above sea level), the symbol of Gwangju, is a mountain formed by the southwest progression of the Honam ridge, a branch of the Baekdudaegan mountain range that makes up the spine of the Korean peninsula. The mountain, which appears to be gently embracing the city from the south, west and east, is closely tied to the city's history and culture. Gwangjucheon, a stream originating in the valleys of Mt. Mudeungsan that runs right through the

city's downtown area, flows northwest to meet with the Geungnakgang River, then joins the Yeongsangang River, forming a fertile plain along its banks. The region's climate includes tolerable summers and mild winters, which seems to contribute to the generous and supple character of its people. Gwangju is the administra.tive, economic and cultural center of Jeollanamdo province. Since long ago, it has also functioned as the commerce center for the southern region's abundance of agricultural and fishery products, as well as its transportation center. It is also known as a center for the arts. It is easy to understand why Gwangju is referred to as an "art capital." Jeong Cheol and Yun Seon-do, two masters of the Korean verse form gasa, are from the area, and some of the most renowned modern Korean poets, including f<.im Young-rang, Park Yong-cheol, Kim Hyon-sung and Lee Dong-ju, were all born here or lived here at some point in their life. Today, the long list of poets and writers with ties to Gwangju seems to continue to grow. Gwangju was also .the cradle for traditional Korean music, the birthplace of the Seopyeonje school of pansori (one-singer traditional operatic form), and also where the changgeuk (folk opera performed by pansori singers) movement began. It is also the birthplace and training ground for numerous Korean music virtuosos, including Lee Nal-chi, Kim Chae-man, Jang Pan-gae, Yu Seong-jun, Lee Hwajungseon and Lim Bang-ui. Even today, Gwangju continues to produce

talented singers and performers, which probably has much to do with the fact that the city is synonymous with traditional Korean music. Gwangju is also a city of art. During the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), Gwangju gave birth to some of the era's most prominent painters including Yun Du-seo, Yang Paeng-seon, Heo So-chi, Heo Baek-ryeon and Heo Geon, whose works represent the ideals of the Namjong school of Korean painting. Gwangju was also home to Oh Chiho, a pioneer of Western-style painting in Korea, and to a series of artists that followed, including Yim Jik-soon, Bae Dong-shin, Yang Su-a and Gang Yongun. Many prominent contemporary artists who were inspired and influenced by these Gwangju figures now make their home in the area. Therefore, it is no coincidence that you can easily find an exceptional painting or two at a humble restaurant or coffee shop here. The city's artistic environment has been further heightened by the Gwangju International Biennale. The artists of

Gwangju have been deeply and broadly involved in not only art, music and literature but theater, dance, crafts, calligraphy and contemporary music as well. Gwangju's rich heritage in culture and arts seems to have much to do with the city's beautiful landscape, mild climate, rich natural resources and the optinlism of its people. However, one should not rule out the influence of various folk games that originated from the region's agricultural society and the vestiges of shamanism, Buddhism and Confucianism. Wang In of Baekje and Kim In-hu and Ji Dae-seung of Joseon were all renowned Confucian scholars born in the region, who went on to influence generations of younger scholars. Such prominent figures asJo Gwang-jo,Jeong Yag-yong and Kim Jeong-hui, who spent time in the region as exiles, also left their marks on Gwangju's culture. Gwangju is also revered for its patricr tism. Whenever the nation has faced a crisis, the people here have willingly risked their lives to struggle against threatening forces. When the Baekje Kingdom fell, this region fought until the end against Tang China and Silla; its people successfully fended off numerous Japanese invasions during the Goryeo Dyansty; and it was also here that Go Gyeong-myeong and Kim Deong-ryeong led their own troops against Japanese invaders in the 16th century. During the Donghak Revolution, Son Hwa-jung, one of the Donghak movement's three principal

leaders along with ]eon Bong-jun and Kim Gae-nam, commanded 4,000 Donghak troops in the Gwangju area. As Japan gained a foothold on the peninsula, Gwangju became the center for resistance against Japan. This included protests led by Kim Won-guk in 1906, and by d1e father-son team Yang Jin-yeo and Yang Sang-gi in 1908, while during the March 1 Movemn~ large-scale demonstrations swept duÂˇough d1e city. In 1929, d1e Gwangju Student Independence Movement was staged, which quickly spread nationwide and played an important role in d1e independence movement against Japanese colonial rule. The May 18 Gwangju incident in 1980 is a tragedy that should never be forgotten, but also remembered as a symbol of Korea's struggle for democracy. Practically all the people of Gw~ngju took part in tllis struggle against nlilitary dictatorship, which contributed immensely to the democratization of Korea. Gwangju is now entering a new era as a high-tech international city, where modernization of industry and technology are taking root. ATTRACTIONS

Mt. Mudeungsan The guardian mountain of Gwangju, its forests serve as places of rest for the city's residents. Its scenic attractions include ]eungsin1sa Temple, Chungjangsa Temple, Ipseokdae Crag, Seoseokdae Crag and Gyubongam Temple. Mt. Mudeungsan in spring

Soswaewon This traditional garden from the midJoseon period features Zen-style landscaping that includes thick pine forests and a stream from the valley which flows into a pond, creating a dramatic effect.

National Museum of Gwangju This museum is home to a large collection of Sung China relics recovered from off the coast of Sinan in 1976. The collection also includes historical and artistic relics from the Baekje Kingdom and prehistoric telics from the Gwangju region.

Unjusa Temple This Buddhist temple is known for its many stone pagodas and stone Buddhas, particularly one of a reclining Buddha. Surrounded by thick forests, the grounds exude a mystic aura.

Gwangju Biennale I

To be held from March 29 through June 29 this year, the biennale features a wide variety of genres including photography, video, film and performance ar~ as well as the participation of internationally renowned artists from around the world

Âˇ-

May 18 Memorial Cemetery Buried here are the Gwangju area residents who lost their lives in the struggle against military dictatorship in 1980. This site is now a symbol of the everlasting spirit of democracy that the people here demonstrated to the entire nation. +

II KOREA'S 10 VENUE CITIES

CITY

DREAMS

AND

FANTASIES

JeongYong-Bok Staff Reporter,jeminilbo

orea's largest island, J ejudo is located in the North Pacific, off the southern coast of the Korean peninsula. The island has been called different names at various times in history, from Doi, Dongyeongju and Juho to Tammora, Seomna, Tangna and Tamna. The island was formed through volcanic activity some 2 million years ago. Then through subsequent volcanic activity, changes in ocean levels, icebergs and tectonic activity, it became connected to the peninsula, then turned back into its current island state. From the center of the island rises Mt. Hallasan, which atop its summit is Paeknokdam, a crater with a diameter of 700 meters, a reminder of the mountain's once volcanic origin Jejudo offers something for everyone, - it seems: unique volcanic and lava topography for geologists; a wide variety of

diverse flora, from subtropical to alpine plants, for botanists; exotic landscapes for tourists from the mainland and abroad; and a secluded way of life different from that of other parts of Korea, of interest to sociologists and folklorists. All these different characteristics can be traced back to the island's volcanic roots. Throughout the island, there are countless traces of volcanic activity from eons ago: rocky cliffs along its coastline; strangely shaped rocks formed by serpentine lava flows; secondary volcano mounds peeping out from the skirts of mountains; and numerous lava caves comprising mazes of underground passages. The island is also called Samdado meaning an island with an overabundance of rocks, wind and women. An island with a culture in perfect harmony with nature, Jejudo boasts more tourism

resources and cultural relics than anywhere else in Korea. With its dolharubang (stone statues of old men), mountains, scenic beaches, caves, waterfalls, lush meadows, rare plants, valleys, agricultural and livestock farms, prehistoric and historical relics, mythical legends, and folk songs, the entire island is a huge natural museum. It also features a number of breathtakingly beautifui sites that remain quite hidden from the public eye. With its volcanic topography and geology, beautiful landscape, mild climate, southern plants and unique customs, Jejudo is one of Korea's most important tourism destinations as well as a renowned venue for international conventions. There are also plans to develop Jejudo into an international free trade zone to serve as a hub for tourism and finance in Nottheast Asia Seogwipo, a city of 85,000 residents, located on the south coast with a milder climate than other areas of the island, is endowed with a picturesque natural beauty. This is where three matches of the 2002 FIFA World Cup Game.S will be played, with soccer stars providing excitement for rabid fans from around the globe. A feverish enthusiasm can be detected in the air on the island of Jejudo, in anticipation of the World Cup Games. The Seoguipo World Cup Stadium, situated amid an exquisite setting 1.5 kilometers from the coast, has been praised as the most spectacular football facility in the world. Its unique design resembles the oreum, or volcanic mounds, that dot the 37

Crashing foamy waves and dark red hexagonal columns layered delicately upon each other like a carved folding screen make up the unusual vista here. Daepo is the eastern section of the coast that runs along the Jungmun Tourist Complex. The columnar formations are a natural wonder that will undoubtedly amaze and intrigue visitors. Jeju landscape, and the tebae, a traditional Jeju raft Three matches will be played at the stadium: Brazil vs. China on June 8; the second game of the Stage 1 matches between Slovenia and Paraguay on June 12; and the first game in the Round of 16, between the first-rank team of the E group and the second-rank team of the B group. Those who have traveled the world agree that there are very few places that measure up to Jejudo, in terms of its majestic Mt. Hallasan; wide, open plains; grand, surreal rocky cliffs along d1e coas~ crystal-clear blue seas; and delectable treats from d1e sea On this island, visitors bask amid such wonders, blanketed by gentle breezes from the Pacific, purified by Hallasan ATTRACTIONS

Columnar Formations along the Coast of Daepo inJungmun

Eongtto Waterfall It is easy to pass by Eongtto Waterfall in the dense forest without noticing it, but when it rains, its majestic silhouette is revealed. Fifty meters in height, the waterfall blends in with the uniquelyshaped rocks and cliffs surrounding it. A lush tropical forest spreads out throughout the valley around the waterfall, creating an exotic green expanse year-round. The waterfall is located in Gangjeongdong, Seoguipo.

Yeomiji Botanical Garden Filled with rare flora from around the world and the rich fragrance of tropical lands, Y eomiji is the largest botanical garden in Asia. Some 2,000 species of rare plants can be seen here, along with over 1,700 species of flowers and trees. The garden is centered around an observatory tower from where you can see as far as Marado, Korea's southernmost point. The 12,210-square-meter domed green-

house houses a butterfly sanctuary as well as gardens of water plants, tropical wildlife, and tropical fruits. The outdoor garden area includes examples of Korean, Japanese, Italian and French styles of gardening.

Jungmun Folk Museum This museum is located along an inlet where the clear waters of the Cheonjeyeon Fall reach the sea after flowing through the Jungmun Tourist Complex. A replica of a traditional fishing village, known as Berinnae, has been built here. Some 3,000 objects, including fishing and farming equipment as well as household items that were part of everyclay life in a fishing village, are on display here.

Teddy Bear Museum Korea's first museum spedalizing in Teddy Bears recently opened in the Jungmun Tourist Complex. On display here are all kinds of rare Teddy Bears from around the world as well as Teddy Bears based on themes related to 20th century history. Visitors can purchase gift items and souvenirs from the Teddy Bear Museum Shop, in addition to enjoying a restaurant specializing in fusion food and a spacious outdoor park

SPECIAL EVENTS Seven Fairies Festival June 7-14, Cheonjeyeon Waterfall

Once upon a time, amid thunder and lightening and the echo of drumbeats, seven fairies, flittering their wings like butterflies, descended from the heavens. On June 7, the city of Seoguipo hosts the 38

Seven Fairies Festival at the Cheonjeyeon Waterfall in Jungmun-dong to celebrate the earthbound journey of the legendary fairies. According to myth, on clear, starry nights, the court fairies of the heavenly gods descend to earth, playing jade flutes, to enjoy the pure water of the Cheonjeyeon Fall.

Throughout the year 2002, the island of Jejudo will present a series of cultural events to celebrate the World Cup Games, providing diverse entertainment and gracious hospitality to its visitors.

YiJung-seop Art Festival May 30-June 20, Vi jung-seop Boulevard

In honor of the late painter Yi Jungseop (1916-1956), who sought refuge in Seoguipo during the Korean War, a commemorative festival will be staged during the World Cup Games. The festival, which kicks off on the same day that the games open (May 30), will feature a variety of cultural and academic programs over 20 days. A special retrospective of the painter's works will be exhibited at Lee's traditional thatched-roof house, which was renovated and opened to the public in 1997 as Daehyang Exhibition Hall, after Yi's pen name. 1

Âˇ"\

]eju Folk Art Performances Jun85, Jeju Beach Performance Center Amphitheater

This program will feature traditional folk performing arts, including Jeju's foil<: songs which have been designated an intangible cultural asset. The perfor-

mances will be included as a tour option for visitors to the games. Highlights include a performance of the shaman ritual Chilmeoridang-gut (Important Intangible Cultural Property No. 71). Jeju Woman Diver Festival May 30-June 16, Tap-dong Beach Performance Center

The sight of Jeju women divers dipping into the rough seas, their rapid inhalations like someone whistling, is becoming increasingly rare these days. These divers were once the symbol of village life on the island. Set against the backdrop of the dark blue waves, the

sight of these women diving to gather seafood can be mesmerizing. The Jeju divers, whose life is entwined with the rough seas, will take center stage at the first Jeju Woman Diver Festival, which will feature a parade of boats based on the theme of Yeongdeung-gut bonpuri, a shaman ritual performed to pray for the well-being of sea-going people. A ship named jeju will lead a procession of boats representing the 32 nations participating in the 2002 World Cup. World Cup Games Commemorative Art Festival May 30-June 20, Cheonjiyeon Outdoor Performance Stage

Special performances will be staged during the World Cup Games for visitors to experience and enjoy a diverse range of music. Evening concerts will feature various genres of music, from classical to modern, including choral music, wind instruments, percussion, ensembles, Samulnori (traditional Korean percussion quartet) and theater as well. Visitors will be encouraged to join in the performances in a spirit of world peace and harmony.+

In Mulheobeok Nori, mulheobeok (water carriers) are played like drums. 39

Lee Eun-young The Korean Organizing Committee for the 2002 FIFA World Cup

orea's 10 World Cup stadiums for the 2002 World Cup finals were designed and built based on state-of-theart architectural and construction techniques along with extensive effort to highlight the nation's unique traditions and culture. Each facility features an archiÂˇ tectural structure designed to maximize the amenities and convenience of not only the competitors, but also spectators and media as well If clothing can make a person, then it would not be an exaggeration to say d1at ilie excellence of a soccer match depends on d1e playing field The quality of a soccer field is determined by how it is planted and maintained. Because of Korea's four distinct seasons, which compared to Japan creates more extreme conditions in terms of temperature, wind, and humidity, the Korean Organizing Committee for the 2002 FIFA World Cup (KOWOC) retained ilie nation's leading research specialists from the outset who carried out all manner of research to ensure high-quality grass playing surfaces. In particular, a test field was constructed in each host city to determine d1e type of field substructure and grass best-suited for that particular location. A top priority in the design of Korea's 10 World Cup stadiums was ensuring ilieir maximum utilization and efficient operation. For example, the space under the stadium seats at Louisiana State University in the United States is used for dormi-

K 1

The Korean Organizing Committee for the 2002 FIFA World Cup (KOWOC) retained the nation's leading research specialists from the outset who carried out all manner of research to ensure high-quality grass playing surfaces. In particular, a test field was constructed in each host city to determine the type of field substructure and grass best-suited for that particular location. 40

tory accommodations, thus promoting student welfare and maximizing the facility's utilization. And portions of the Super Dome in New Orleans house apartment units, a creative and cost-effective concept that helps to ease the housing shortage. Though suffering from financial difficulty when construction of the World Cup stadiums got under way, Korea gave careful consideration to ensuring that the stadiums would be cost-efficient to operate and able to contribute to the local communities in a number of ways well after the final whistle of the 2002 World Cup finals. Toward this end, Korea devised a number of creative ideas for extensively using the stadiums for multiple purposes. Unlike most public stadiums, the 10 World Cup facilities in Korea will be used as recreational hubs for local residents. They will also play a key role in spotts, economic, and cultural activities by functioning as multipurpose cultural and athletic complexes equipped with all kinds of convenience facilities and amenities, including large discount stores, fitness centers, and restaurants. Moreover, all stadiums boast an efficient transportation network In terms of beauty and function, Korea's World Cup stadiums can compare with any world-renowned stadium, including Amsterdam Arena and Eindhoven Stadium in the Netherlands, which are widely recognized as the world's most efficient and versatile stadiums, Manchester Stadium in Britain, and Yokohama Stadium in Japan.

As the co-host of the 2002 World Cup finals, Korea has developed seven stadiums designed exclusively for soccer. There are 2,646 soccer stadiums in 170 countries the world over. The seven soccer stadiums recently built in Korea will contribute significantly not only to Korean soccer but also the overall development of soccer in the Asian region. Korea's 10 World Cup stadiums, including the Seoul World Cup Stadium, are briefly introduced below.

Seoul Sangam World Cup Stadium Seoul, the capital of the Republic of Korea, has spearheaded the development of the nation's politics, economy, society, and culture for some 600 years. The Seoul World Cup Stadium is octagonal in shape, similar to an octagonal-shaped traditional Korean tray, which symbolizes Korea's culture, history, and hopes for the 21st century. The roof is shaped like a traditional Korean kite. The kite embodies the spirit and culture of Korea while reflecting the hopes of humankind. The pillars supporting the roof resemble the masts of a Korean sailboat, hwangpo dotbae, which used to ply the Han River. The roof and the pillars symbolize the flying of a kite holding the hopes of humankind from aboard a sailboat. The overall stadil1111 design is like a covered traditional Korean octagonal serving dish, a symbol of abundance meant to represent the hospitality and

courtesy that Koreans extend to visitors. The pattern of curved lines formed on the roof surface are reminiscent of the roof and eaves of traditional Korean houses whose graceful lines are re-created with the billowing roof surface and advanced technology. The Seoul Sangam World Cup Stadium includes one story under ground, six stories above ground, and a seating capacity of 64,677.

30,000.seat soccer stadium is invariably filled to capacity for soccer matches played there. The Suwon World Cup Stadium exudes a dynamic atmosphere befitting a stadium of the 21st century, an era to be dominated by technology and multimedia. A joint undertaking of Korea's Samwoo Construction and the French construction company that built Saint-Denis Stadium in France, the Suwon

Incheon Munhak Stadium Incheon is Korea's leading maritin1e gateway and a hub of state-of-the-art industries comparable to Madrid in Spain and San Francisco in the United States. Home to a newly built worldclass international airport and the nation's second largest port, Incheon is a venue for diverse global exchanges, reflecting the hopes and dreams of a new era.

World Cup Stadium includes a distinctive wing-shaped roof and decks designed to resemble the walls of Suwon's Hwaseong Fortress. It has a seating capacity of 43,138 and is designed exclusively for soccer.

Daejeon World Cup Stadium

The Incheon Munhak Stadium was constructed with a goal of creating a multiplex recreation facility of a concept appropriate for the 21st century. It features a dynamic appearance that brings to mind a sail and mast. The roof reflects the curved lines of the eaves of traditional Korean architecture through the application of a cable structure system that minimized the use of steel in order to highlight Korea's penchant for curvilinear aesthetics. The weight of the roof was reduced by using a light coated fabric, which also helps to create a pleasant environment by allowing natural light to filter through. At ni g h ~ the interior lighting spreads to the outside, creating a high visibility landmark symbolizing a "green Incheon of the 21st century." The Incheon Stadium has a seating capacity of 50,256.

Daejeon is Korea's second administrative capital and a transportation hub. Known as the Silicon Valley of Korea, it is home to the Daedeok Science Complex, the cradle of Korea's most prominent science and research institutes. The Daejeon World Cup Stadium is a high-tech facility with the nation's first retractable roof. While as cozy and refined as the inner courtyard of a traditional Korean house, it boasts a stylish design. Built exclusively for soccer, the stadium includes a basement level and five stories above ground, and has a seating capacity of 41,000.

Suwon World Cup Stadium Suwon is a city of rich culture and ideal for tourists, located within a 30-minute drive from the comprehensive leisure complex Everland and the Korean Foil<Village. It is home to notable cultural attractions, in particular the Hwaseong Fortress, designated a world cultural heritage by UNESCO. This stadium features the nation's largest grass playing field. The residents of Suwon are passionate soccer enthusiasts; the city's original 43

Ulsan Munsu Football Stadium Ulsan, the birthplace of Korea's automobile industry, is the nation's No. 1 industrial city. It forms a techno-valley with the nearby Pohang and Changwon industrial centers. The cradle of Korean soccer, it boasts some 230 teams and practice facilities

tering the financial, maritime trade, electronics, and tourism industries are currently underway in four areas of the city. Busan has recently hosted the drawing for the 2002 World Cup groupings and will also host the 14th Asian Games in September this year. The stadium's appearance is like a spectacular fireworks display in celebration of the new millennium, with its gently curving roof symbolizing the waves breaking on the Busan coastline. Built to host the World Cup soccer finals and the Asian Games, the stadium is a sphere-shaped multipurpose facility with its roof covering the entire seating area. Its exceptional design was highly praised by Secretary General of the Asian Football Confederation Peter Velappan. The main stadium includes four stories above ground and 53,926 seats, wl1ile the auxiliary stadium has a seating capacity of 5,000.

Gwangju World Cup Stadium

Âˇ-

used exclusively by the national soccer team. The external design of the Ulsan Munsu Soccer Stadium resembles a crane, a symbol of Ulsan, in a position poised to take flight. It features an efficient structure meant to symbolize Ulsan as an industrial center leading the Pacific Rim into the 21st century. Its steelframe supports depict an abstract whale, one of Âˇthe animals in an ancient petroglyph carved on the rock cliff called Bangudae, to symbolize Ulsan's prehistoric era. Along the upper supports, 128 lights are attached, while on a lower level there is another 54 lights. At nigh~ these lights produce the shape of a crown from the ancient Silla Kingdom. The stadium includes two basement levels, three stories above ground, and a seating capacity of 43,512

Busan Asiad Main Stadium Busan, a logistics hub in Northeast Asia and international harbor city, is currently in the process of becoming a key gateway in the Pacific Rin1 era. Four development projects aimed at fos-

Gwangju, "City of Light," where past traditions and future visions come together, is a city of high-tech industries that integrate Korea's cultural and artistic traditions. The roof of the Gwangju World Cup Stadium is designed with graceful curves patterned after the silhouette of Mt. Mudeungsan, which is unusually large for a mountain so near a city, and reminiscent of a mother's gentle shoulder. The designers sought to adapt the stadium to the natural topography, while especially taking care to build the entrances and exits in the middle of the stands so that the spectators can conveniently wall< from their seats to the exits in an uninterrupted flow. The stadium embodies Gwangju's image as a village of light through the layout of entrances and exits, lines of the support columns, and circular patterns on the floor, which together create a brilliant light ill<e tl1at which radiates from an amphitheater. The huge pillars supporting the roof and seating areas are Y-shaped so that the outline of the roof and pillars represent gJssaum, a traditional foil< game played between two teams carrying huge straw ropes. The eastern and western sections of the roof facing each other symbolize the two teams as they ram their straw ropes into each other. The stadium has a seating capacity of 43,121.

]eonju World Cup Stadium Jeonju is famed for its cultural, artistic, and culinary traditions. It has a rich history and features a variety of historical sites and tourist attractions, including Iksan Mireuksa Temple near the stadium, Byeonsan Peninsula National Park, and Mt. Naejangsan National Park The stadium's overall image resembels a hapjukseon, a folding fan with ribs made of double strips of bamboo, which has long been a specialty product of Jeonju. The four huge pillars supporting the roof are shaped like sotdae, a traditional spirit pole. The roof's suspension cables repre-

sent the strings of a gayageum., a 12-string traditional Korean zither, and thus symbolize Jeonju's deep cultural roots. The stadium has one story under ground, six stories above ground, and 42,477 seats.

Daegu World Cup Stadium Daegu, located in the central area of southeastern Korea, is the center for Korea's resurgent textile and fashion industries, "' and is known locally as the "Korean Milan." With an abundance of tourism resources nearby, including Bulguksa Temple in Gyeongju, Haeinsa Temple in Hapcheon, and the traditional

Hahoe Village in Andong, Daegu is striving to transform itself into an international center of fashion, sports, high-tech industry, and logistics. In particular, it is seeking to distinguish itself as one of Asia's top fashion centers under an extensive development plan dubbed the 21st-century J\ililan Project. The Daegu World Cup Stadium has a roof shaped like a globe to represent the embracing of people from around the world under a single roof, while the stadium's overall appearance resembles an eagle. The stadium complements the topographical features of Mt. Daedeok-san in southern Daegu wllile ensuring the continuity of the natural landscape by combining natural and artificial lines. The roof was designed to reflect the linear elegance inherent in Korea's traditional roofs. The stadium has three stories under ground, three stories above ground, and with 65,857 seats has the largest seating capacity of all the World Cup stadiums.

]eju World Cup Stadium A tourist hub of Northeast Asia, Jeju Island is an internationally renowned resort destination boasting superb natural attractions. The shape of Jeju Stadium in Seogwipo resembles o~ r eu m , volcanic mounds that abound throughout the island and contribute to its breathtaking scenery. The stadium's roof is modeled after a traditional Jeju wooden boat called tebae. The stadium creates a majestic scene against the backdrop of the sea which is only 1.5 kilometers away. The playing field, which is built 14 meters below the surface of the ground, resembles the shape of Sangumburi Crater, one of the best-known oreum among the some 360 scattered about the island. The six pillars supporting the roof represent the six continents and the seats are blue to harmonize with the sea. The entrance paths to the stadium, unlike the walkways of other stadiums that are in a straight line to the stands, are tilted about 15 degrees from the northern stands in order to represent olle, a path leading to the yard of a Jeju traditional house that is slanted to block the view of the front gate, as well as Jeju Island's traditional gate called jeongnang The stadium can seat 42,256 people. +

lon was a male pop music duo that was enormously popular in Korea until several years ago. Unfortunately, Kang Won-rae, one of the members, was injured in a traffic accident which led to Clon's breakup. This occurred in 1999 when Clon was hugely popular not only in Korea but Taiwan as well. The duo's dazzling stage costumes, dynamic dancing and macho performances took Taiwanese fans by storm. Taiwanese teenagers screaming Oppa! Oppa! (the Korean word for older brother, but also used to refer to boyfriend) were no differ46

ent from Korea 's maniacal fans, including those who fainted during performances. Following in the steps of Clon, the pop muisic group H.O.T. (now inactive but still popular), NRG, Lee Jeong-hyun, Baby V.O.X. and Papaya, as well as Korean TV and movie actors Ahn Jae Wook, Jang Dong Gun, Song Seung Hun, Song Hye-gyo, Lee Young-ae, and Kim Nam Ju, who came to be known through Korean TV dramas and movies, also became immensely popular in Taiwan. What is it about Korean pop culture that has Taiwanese fans so spellbound?

Asian Teens Embrace Hallyu Taiwan, China, Japan, Vietnam, and other Asian countries have been gripped by a feverish hallyu craze, which literally .means "cultural current from Korea." Hallyu is now spreading to Singapore and Thailand as well. This enthusiasm for Korean pop culture, which began in the late 1990s and continues as strong as ever today, is referred to as hallyu, a word reportedly first used by the Chinese press to describe "Korean cultural current or wind." The biggest contributor to fueling this Korean current has been Korean-produced TV dramas. It was in 1997 when China's CCTV

Channel 1 began to air the Korean drama series ''What is Love" that hallyu began to sweep through the Chinese mainland. This program enjoyed a 4.3-percent rating, which was high for a foreign program at the time, and was re-broadcast by several other Chinese networks. This was followed by the broadcasting of Âˇ'Star in My Heart" and "Love In Your Heart" in Taiwan and Vietnam, which served to spread the hallyu fever to Southeast Asia. Then came the sensational performances by such pop music groups as Cion, NRG, and HOT, which served to further intensify the hallyu rage. In particular, thanks to its Beijing

performance in early 2000, HOT. topped the popularity chatt of DangDaiGeTan, a Chinese music magazine with a circulation of more than one million, for a record five consecutive months. In particular, as they came under the hallyu influence, the people of these Asian countries began to perceive Korea in a new light. For example, Vietnamese antipathy toward the Korean troops who fought in the Vietnam War had continued to linger long after the war ended, with even today's young generations having an aversion toward Korea. But Korean pop culture has won over their hearts while filling their minds with

positive impressions about Korea Today, many Vietnamese secondary school students and even college students wear Tshirts sporting images of Korean pop stars. Meanwhile, the hairstyles of Korean entertainers and their accessories are known to become instant fads. Nowadays, Korean-Chinese students in China are frequently asked by their Chinese classmates to write down the lyrics of the songs of HOT, and explain their meaning. Music tapes and posters of Korean singers are regarded as the most treasured gifts that Chinese students can receive from their Korean friends. Thus an increasing number of Chinese stu47

dents are trying to become pen pals with South Korean students, whom they envy for living in the same country as their idols. Recordings by H.O.T. and NRG have sold more than 400,000 copies and 200,000 copies, respectively, in China alone. H.O.T.'s Beijing concert in February 2000 drew some 13,000 fans, confirming the group's popularity in the Chinese market. This phenomenon even led to the coining of a new phrase hahanzu, which means "Korea maniacs," to describe the Chinese youth who idolize Korean pop music, singers, actors, and Korean businesses are actively developing ingenious marketing strategies to benefit from the hallyu wind, whose ripple effects are extensive. A number of group package tours taking advantage of the surging popularity of Korean entertainers are currently under

development in an effort to attract more foreign tourists to Korea. Pop stars have emerged as tourism resources because so many ardent fans from overseas are.eager to visit the homeland of their Korean idols.

cultural trends. The majority of the products these students use are made in Korea, and they even carry -Korean flags Âˇ in their schoolbags. For some, their status among peers is determined by the amount of Korean products they own. The demand for Korean products continues to rise steadily, even though they are at least five times more expensive than Chinese products. It is mostly the children of high-level party cadres and the nouveau riche who so admire things Korean. The number of people seeking to learn the Korean language is also on the rise, as an extension of their keen 48

interest in the culture and lifestyle of their newfound idols. As for Japan, after the screening of the Korean hit movies Swiri and ]SA, even those who previously had trouble pointing out Korea on a map, started to show an interest in Korea. In particular, the movie ]SA debuted in some 350 theaters in Japan and drew some 800,000 viewers in just two months, reaping more than $7 million (10 billion won) in box office receipts. Moreover, the distribution rights for the movie Friends amounted to $21 million for the Japanese market, a record-high price. Why All the Rave about Korean Pop Culture? Though it seems natural for the culture and trends of the United States, Japan, and other advanced countries to spread beyond their borders, the wind , currentl y blowing about China and Southeast Asian countries is from Korea, not the United States and Japan. Why is the hallyu craze sweeping through Asia? During the 1970s and 1980s, Hong Kong movies enjoyed a boom in Korea. The movies Enter the Dragon and A Better TomoJTow starring Bruce Lee and Chow Yun-Fat mesmerized countless Korean moviegoers. The yellow sweat __ pants Bruce Lee wore in his movies became trendy, while Koreans currently in their 20s and 30s still remember Bruce .,_ Lee's uniqu e gesture of brushing his thumb across the tip of his nose and letting out a yell before pummeling another victim. At the time, Hong Kong movies not only helped Koreans to learn and understand Chinese culture but also conferred a sense of intrigue on the Chinese people. Today, however, Asians are enthusiastically embracing Korean pop culture. In particular, the Chinese people regard Korean culture, which boasts a blend of Western and Korean elements, to be more compatible with their sentiments than Japanese culture, which is excessively Westernized and contains extreme elements. Asians describe the Korean culture portrayed in TV dramas as "unique."

Some believe that Korean culture, while incorporating an appropriate mixture of elements from American and Japanese cultures, ~o mes across as refreshing because of the strongly evident Korean sensibility. While the Chinese music market is traditionally dominated by ballads, the dynamic and unconventional Korean pop music is helping to sa tisfy the repressed desires of a new generation of Chinese. Korean pop music, which can be frenzied and also convey a sense of rebellion, is creating a storm in the Chinese music market

tainers are currently being developed in an effort to attract more foreign tourists to Korea. Pop stars have emerged as tourism resources because so many ardent fans from overseas are eager to visit the homeland of their Korean idols. In a poll the China Research Center conducted of Chinese netizens, 61.7 percent chose Korea as the country they most wished to visit After the Korean drama series "Autumn Fairy Tale" remained at the top of the rating charts for 13 weeks in Taiwan, the Korea National Tourism Organiza tion (KNTO) organized an

The cast of the TV drama "Autumn Fairy Tale"

Meanwhile,Japan is coming under the influence of hallyu through movies, with Japanese people being especially taken with Swiri and ]SA. Notably, the Japanese are said to be attracted to Korean movies because of their unique themes and high entertainment value. Hallyu Group Tours Takeoff Korean businesses are actively developing ingenious marketing strategies to benefit from the hallyu wind, whose ripple effects are extensive. A number of group package tours taking advantage of the surging popularity of Korean enter-

Autumn Fairy Tale Tour. This was followed by an AhnJae Wook Camp at the Yangji Resort in Gyeonggi-do province in August last year, which attracted about 250 Chinese and Taiwanese tourists. "Although it was about 20 percent more expensive than an ordinary tour package, we had no problem in attracting tourists," noted a KNTO official in charge of developing tourism products. "This product is so popular in Beijing that practically every Chinese traveler has heard about it." The key consumers of Korean pop culture in China are teenagers, so-called 49

"little emperors," who grew up spoiled under doting parents who were forced to abide by the government's strict population control measures. Korea is thus devising marketing strategies aimed at Chinese teenagers, such as a three-day tour package to see popular singers NRG and Baby Vox in Korea, which was conducted in August last year. Also of note, a group of some 500 Chinese tourists who recently visited Korea showed that they had little interest in anything other than the activities of their Korean stars. Plans are also underway to introduce a number of tourism products based on the participation of domestic celebrities, including "star" ski camps in winter, to attract foreign visitors. The increasing visits to Korea by Chinese fans are expected to prompt "star-gazing visits" by music fans from other Asian countries. For lowdemand seasons, such as during school terms, products will be introduced which enable foreign visitors to view filming sessions of popular singers and actors at TV networks. In Taiwan, the TV drama series "Invi. tation" and "Flame of Fire," starring Lee Young-ae, enjoyed high viewership ratings, which also fueled booming demand for Korean fashions and cosmetics. In Vietnam, actor Jang Dong Gun and actress Kim Nam Ju have such huge fan followings that the products of "L" cosmetics, which actress Kim Nam Ju promotes, are flying off the shelves, even though they can cost more than onethird the monthly wages of an average Vietnamese. Meanwhile, Chinese mobile telecommunication companies are competing to hire Korean entertainers as spokespersons to promote their products, in hopes of expanding their share of China's huge mobile communications market by using Korean stars with much cachet among Chinese consumers. Indeed, Chinese broa,dcasting networks and magazines are also competing fiercely to repott the latest news about Korean entertainers. Korean cultural trends are so popular in China that the rights to a TV program 50

series that used to be sold for $15,000 can now fetch upward of $50,000.

Sound Promotion of Hallyu Needed The propagation of Korean pop culture is stoking the development of marketing strategies aimed at malting inroads into new markets abroad. It would now be timely to find ways to enter the markets in the United States and Europe, to build on the successful forays into the Taiwanese, Vietnamese, and Chinese markets. Toward this end, it will be necessary to devise a strategy for ensuring that hallyu takes firm root in the huge Chinese market, first and foremost. Above all else, it is essential to instill consumer confidence, which is especially difficult to restore once compromised. For example, plans to stage a "2000 Hallyu Boom" concert in Beijing failed because an employee of Merit 21 Entertainment, the event organizer, ran away with the company's money, leaving various bills unpaid. China could not at what it regardconceal its displ~ure ed as an insult to the entire Chinese people. The Chinese authorities thus declared a "ban on performances by Korean singers for the next five years," such that the hallyu boom was grounded just when it was about to take off. Fortunately, the Chinese authorities lifted the prohibition after six months, allowing Korean entertainers to again perform in Beijing; however, much effort will be necessary to overcome the negative fallout. Because the activities related to Korean pop culture are a form of people-to-people diplomacy between two countries, their significance cannot be taken lightly. In particular, the Chinese are known to highly value loyalty and propriety. Cultural experts thus say that it is essential to carefully consider China's national characteristics in order to sustain the Korean wave. Yazhou Zhoukan, a prestigious weekly magazine published in Hong Kong, reported that Korean pop culture has a dynamic latent power such that the hal-

Chinese funs of things Korean are wild with excitement during their stay in Korea.

lyu craze currently sweeping through the Chinese cultural sphere is W<ely to be more than a transient fad. However, others point out that the soil at the foundation of Korean culture is less fertile than that of American or Japanese culture. Experts are quick to agree that "a cautious approach based on a future-oriented perspective" is most critical at this time when Korean culture is poised for its grand entry into the global stage. Professor Kim Wang-seok, a journalism professor at Chung-Ang Un iversit y,

notes: "A c'ulture can truly blossom only when accompanied by due economic strength. The domestic economy has to be robust in order for Korean pop culture to acquire competitiveness, and it can end ure onl y when we ad-d our own trad itional elements onto th at foundation." The fact that Korean pop culture, which heretofore has blindly followed Western culture, has in large part failed to feature uniquely Korean elements is another problem. Although the hallyu wave has now been sustained for several years, the potential for this boom to subside lil<e a receding tide will become reality if it fails to implant a distinctive Korean image. + 51

INTERVIEW

Sohn Jin-chaek's

WORLD OF DRAMA Kim Moon-hwan Drama Critic Professor of Aesthetics, Seoul National University

orean society in 2002 h as been reverberating from shockwaves generated both a t home and abroad . The upcoming elections for Korea's president and heads of local autonomous governments are fast approaching amid apprehension caused by U.S. President George W. Bush's "axis of evil" remarks. In addition, excitement over the FIF A World Cup soccer finals is building daily, as well as concerns about unforeseen incidents. Although some people maintain that due to its previous experience in successfully hosting the 1988 Seoul Olympics, Korea has been too laid-back about hosting the upcoming World Cup games, the 10 World Cup host cities, especially Seoul, the venue of the opening ceremony and match, are all busily tending to last-minute preparations to welcome soccer enthu siasts from the world over. The FIFA World Cup soccer finals are a more significant global sporting event than the Summer Olympics, with anticipat ion soaring for the cultural opportunities of the 2002 World Cup soccer games. It is natural to aspire to capitalize on the World Cup games exposure as a golden opportunity to promote Korean culture throughout the world. This aspiration is especiall y focused on the cultural significance of the opening ceremony. Beca use th e 52

opening ceremony has to be presented during a 30-minute period before the opening soccer match and is thus subject to various constraints, it is even more critical for this ceremony to be especially passionate and distinctive. The individual under the gun for pulling this off is Sohn Jin-chaek, the highly respected theater director who has been appointed director of cultural programs for the opening ceremony of the 2002 FIFA World Cup finals. Who is Sohn Jin-chaek and w hat kind of an opening ceremon y w ill he be presenting? Sohn Jin-chael< was born in Yeongju, Gyeongsangbuk-do province in 1947. He became involved in drama after major-

ing in theater at Sorabol Art College. Following his graduation in 1970, he became a founding member of the theater company Minye in 1973. A key member of this theater company was Hoe Kyu, a theater director who later became the director of the Na tional Theater of Korea. A graduate of the Agricultural College of Seoul National University, Hoe had been produ cing various plays in conjunction w ith Shilhum Theater Group when he developed an interest in Korea's traditional culture, especially folk plays. He founded Minye with a goal of developing Korean-style plays. As a founding member, Sohn Jin-chaek shared Hoe's goal, which led to their collaborative production of a number of plays for Minye theater company. Sohn gained much recognition by integrating Korea's traditional elements of entertainment into such plays as Seo ul Maldduki, The Ascension of Hanne, Aeoraji, The Rice, and Kkokdugaksi Noreum. For his efforts, Sohn received the new director's award at the 1977 Korea Theater and Film Art Grand Prize ceremony and the Korea Theater Art Prize in 1984. In August 1986, Sohn established the theater company Michoo with some of the members of the Minye theater company and other new members. Michoo is a Korean compound word; "mi" refers to beauty and "choo" to ugliness. The

theater company's founding statement clearly reveals the significance of the group's name and its aspirations. The following is Michoo's entire statement, which can help provide insight into the character of Sohn Jin-chaek. We pursue madang. What is madang? That place is today. That place is an eternal time of the present. It is the present that is alive and that moves by merging with the future and past. For us, there can be no madang of tomorrow or of yesterday that disregards the madang of today. What is madang? It is here. It is the contents and format of a new art, created within the living space of our lives right here. It is a format of our own life that is based on the premise of universal human values. It is the process of our independent lives that can never succumb to any kind of /

authority. What is madang? If is not a catharsis offered as a comfort to the fate of man, but an eternal reform of a fateful life. What is madang? It is an eternal dynamism where the per-

kun, is discussed here, since it is helpful to understanding the basic nature of Michoo. The play begins with the 80-year-old Kim Jong, the 30th-generation descendent of his family, performing the traditional Confucian ancestral rites jesa, which he had stopped performing a long time ago. When he was 30, Kim Jong was present when the grave of an ancestor was dug up and no body was found. He decided to perform jesa again years later when a similar incident occurred. The play continues with various characters speculating about why the ancestor's body was missing. But the real cause, at least according to Kim Jong's uncle who was imprisoned for his participation in the independence movement against Japanese colonial forces after Kim Jong turned him in, involves the ability of the family 's ancestors to rise from the grave of their own accord to search for reinforcements from the ancient past to rescue the hopeless world by becoming secret messengers. The uncle insists that this happens each time that the country or

family faces a crisis. The family's ancestors had once been the leaders of a group of itinerant peddlers. Kim Jong rejects the "family tradition of protecting the world with the sword called money today, contrary to the original practice of safeguarding the world with good intentions, a sword, and medicine." Instead, he believes that the right thing to do in times of trouble is to protect his family through whatever means possible. The theme of the play revolves around the conflict between Kim Jong and his oldest grandson, whose priority is focused on defending his country. After Korea's liberation from Japan, his son is imprisoned, denounced as being projapanese. In the meanwhile, Soviet Union forces enter Korea and again the world changes overnight. Kim Jong, out of greed to retain his pe!Âˇsonal wealth, keeps putting off bailing his son out of prison. Later, his son is executed at a people's trial and his wife commits

Hibakari- A Portrait of the Year 400, a drama produced through a Korea-Japan joint effort in 2001.

former and audience become one. It is a new tradition that constantly breaks down traditional conventions. What is madang? It is the feelings of our body that express beauty and ugliness simultaneously. It is a fierce struggle that illuminates both the bright and dark sides of our lives. To us, there can be no beauty apart from ugliness and no ugliness apart from beauty. Michoo! Michoo is our eternal madang.

Beginning with its opening play ]ikimi in 1987, the theater company Michoo has been constantly striving to express the spirit evident in its founding statement. This opening play, which was based on a drama by Chung Bok53

suicide by hanging herself. This is a tremendous shock for Kim Jong, who thought the proper way of conducting himself was to avoid getting into trouble, no matter how evil a world he might live in. The April19 student uprising against the Syngman Rhee government then takes place in 1960, during which he loses his oldest grandson. His grandson had run out of the house after hearing a familiar voice (that of his ancestor) among the shouting demon-

strators, urging him "to take the lead and go over the mountains to see a powerful and bright world." In the original story, the wife of one of Kim Jong's grandsons drowns herself in the river after a fight with her husband, but in the play this was changed to the family maid being caught wearing her mistress' clothes and jewelry, upon which she stabs Kim Jong's granddaughter-in-law in the face with a pair of scissors. This rna y be interpreted as an expression of

the divide between the haves and havenots of society. Kim Jong, by maintaining silence, reproaches his grandson for forsaking the family tradition. It is at this point that the ancestor's grave is dug up to reveal an empty pit. Once again, the characters in the play speculate about why the body is missing, repeating the explanations they had given at the beginning of the play. But every night, Kim Jong dreams of his "uncle, who rises up from his grave to go back to

the past in search of reinforcements and his oldest grandson following him." Kim Jong "repeatedly wakes up from sleep, exhausted from trying desperately to follow them." He finally concludes that he has no choice but to ask for his ancestors' help by resuming his observance of jesa. He then prays to the ancestors for "the family's protector-a pure and brilliant sword that does not bend or rust under any circumstance at any time."

As the author noted, a tradition spanning 3,000 years and the thought of linking an ancestor's missing body to a spiritual search for ancestral reinforcements can be difficult for audiences to pick up on. The breath of its appeal was also subdued due to ambiguity of the symbolism related to the sword that has to be safeguarded. In addition, the theme was not sufficiently developed, in particular regard to a lack of explanation of what would cause his uncle, who had

died while fighting for national independence, to rise up from his grave. Even so, the skilled swordplay, dance, and musical performances are indeed praiseworthy for seamlessly linking ageold traditions with the present. The play portrayed condensed beauty, but its weak points included a somewhat excessive use of slides, synthesizer sound effects that droned on throughout the first part of the play, which suppressed the overall ambience and failed

The FIFA World Cup football finals are a more significant global sporting event than the Summer Olympics, with anticipation soaring for the cultural opportunities of the 2002 World Cup football games. It is natural to aspire to capitalize on the World Cup games exposure as a golden opportunity to promote Korean culture throughout the world. This aspiration is especially focused on the cultural significance of the opening ceremony.

to highlight changes, and the ancestral altar situ ated in front of the central stage and the elaborate ritu al procedures which created an impression that this decorum was what the play had intended to preserve. There were also insertions of current news before and after the play, in an effort to add to its realism, but one could only wonder that there mu,st be a better way, by compressing the time span for example, to impress upon audiences w hat it is that we should safeguard in the current era, without necessarily relying on ritual rei nfo rcemen t. In any case, Sohn received that year's Baeksang Art Prize for best director, Seoul Theater Festival's best director award, and the best artist award from the Association of Korean

Theater Critics. This was indeed an auspicious start. Sohn later garnered these same and other awards, thanks to stellar reviews for his production of such creative dramas as Toenail of General 0 , A Story of

the Two CountJies, Fabricating Heroes, Heavens for Namsadang, and Cheonmyung, as well as for the adaptation of translated dramas, including Macbeth, and Death and the Maiden (Ariel Dorfman). Michoo describes its selection of such plays as "an attempt to become a part of the popular masses through plays that reflect the social circumstances of the times, without persisting on or being bound to a single th eme." As such, Michoo and Sohn steadfast ly pursued the ge nres of

A scene from the madangnori TI1e StOiy ofHong Gil-dong(1993) 56

changgeuk, Korean classical folk opera, and madangnori, a new theater genre based o n traditional Ko rea n plays. Changgeuk is a genre that has been revived since 1987 with support from th e Dong-A Ilb o. Thus far , six changgeuk productions have been staged, including Story of Sim Cheong, Story of Ch ungh yang, and Story of Heungbu. These productions, w hich are based on traditional panso1i, an epic narrative vocal folk art, have also been staged overseas. Madangnori is a type of satire based on a contemporary adaptation of popular fables. As a new form of entertainment incorporating dance and song, witticism and all manner of recreational activity, as well as audience interaction,

it at times features circus and magic acts and even state-of-the-art stage technology. Michoo explains madangnori, w hich has become a primary source of the group's revenu e, as: "A performance introducing Korea n classics full of humor and satire, which does not stop at simply having the audience watch and enjoy the perfo rmance but also entertains and moves the audience by reflecting on contemporary social situations. Apart from drawing an average of 200,000 viewers during its run, each perfor mance aro uses an enthu siastic response and becomes the talk of the town." I once w rote the following review of Story of Byeongangsoe, the latest in the series of madangnori performances: Considering that many people regard human life as an empty dream, and, in view of the fact that today's society further encourages this belief, we cannot find fault with madangnori, which, after all, is a form of entertainment, for filling the leisure time that keeps on increasing for various reaso.ns. In this world where truly unsound

Âˇ-

forms of recreation are rampant, we can regard madangnori, despite its sometimes risque sexual allusions, as a faultless form of entertainment to be enjoyed by the entire family. But Story of Byeongangsoe failed to properly convey the critical message that the producer revealed as he was preparing for the performance. The producer said that the actions of Byeongangsoe "have to be viewed as realistic responses of a person who had to adapt to the social contradictions of his time." He also argued: "To avoid the hard work of cutting his own trees for timber, Byeongangsoe chose the easy way out by stealing the wooden guardian posts standing in the village. This was not because he was lazy. On the contrary, this should be viewed as his challenge or resistance to taboo and authority. He then died from the wrath of the guardian gods. His wife did not want to go through the bother of holding his funeral and let it be known that she would live with anyone who performs his

funeral in her stead. The men who eagerly took over holding the funeral- monk, exorcist, and street singer-also die, however. Their deaths were not the result of Byeongangsoe's jealousy, but rather retribution for the hypocrisy and avarice that have plagued humans since prehistoric times." His argument sounds plausible enough. But the problem is that the play failed to deliver this kind of interpretation to the audience. Would it be too harsh to say that what the audiences saw was only a series of pleasurable visual scenes that were not adequately linked to the development of the theme?

I often say that my criticism should be taken as well-intended remarks that help Michoo's madangnori to acquire greater cultural significance. Michoo recently became embroiled in a lawsuit with the MBC television network, with which it had co-sponsored madangnori performances for the last 20 years, over the right to use the word "madangnori" aft er their breakup. In the end, the court ruled that Michoo could continue to stage productions that were referred to as madangnori performances under its own name. As a result of this introduction to Sohn Jin-chael< and his artistic world, it might be thought that he is a frog in a well. However, this would be a misunderstanding and contrary to my intentions. In fact, Sohn contributes actively to international exchanges of Korean drama wl1ile serving as the vice chairman of the Korea n branch of the International Theater Institute (ITI). He has toured Hungary, Yugoslavia, the United States, and Japan to p resen t the changge uk Story of Sim Cheong, while also staging the creative plays Toenail of General 0, To th e Mountain s an d Fi el ds Wh en Spring Com es, and H eaven s f or Namsadang in Russia and China. In addi-

tion, in collaboration with the Japanese theater company Subaru he jointly produced and directed Hibaka1i, a play about Korean ceramic a1tists who were abducted to Japan in the early 16th century.

Mo reover, his int ernational exchange experiences ha ve motivated Sohn to further dedicate himself to the study of Korean plays. In my interview of Sohn, he mentioned that the basic theme of the opening ceremony of the Wo rld Cup finals would be "co mmuni ca ti o n ," and th at it w ill depict aspirations for "harmo nio us existence and world peace." When I asked him w hether the performance would reflect the fact that Korea and Japan are co-hosting the first-ever socce r fin als in Asia, h e sa id th a t alth o ug h e le me nts o f informatio n tec hn o logy w ill be featured , th e emphasis w ill be on Korea's indigen o us cultur al ele m e nts , including those of North Korea. He has previo us! y ac hi eve d s uch multiface ted res ults in several p lays, including H eavens for Namsadang, due in part to the par ti cipa tion o f stage art ist YoonJeong-sup. The key members of his staff-Park Bum-hoon, Kim Soochul ( mu sic), and Kook Soo- h o (dance)- are responsible for fine-tuning the Korean cultural elements that w ill be highlighted in the 30-minute opening ceremony, w hich will be presented at 7:45 p.m. on May 31, 2002. I felt that Sohn mu st be burdened by the need to come up with a performance that can be distinguished from the opening and cl osing ceremonies of the Seoul Oly mpics, which had relied heavily on traditional Korean cultur al elem en ts , b ut Sohn o nl y smiled confid ently. One can only look fo rward to th e day of the -opening ceremon y w hen a "madangnori" will be preformed before the eyes of the entire world. These days, Sohn operates his own theater and drama school in the outskirts of Seoul, w here, together w ith his wife Kim Sung-nyo, a stage actress w ho shares his passion for drama, he devotes himself to training actors and provi ding ed uca ti on o n traditional Korean music to further promote the activities of Michoo. â€˘

ARTISAN

ByeonÂˇbae A Quest for Life-breathing Onggi Lee Hyoung-kwon Head, Cultural Prope1ties Research Institute

eople who live off the land tend to be simple. You reap what you sow, and it is said: the land tells no lies. The land gives back as much as the sweat and care put into working it; it remains stoically in its place. Onggi, dark brown pottery crocks and jars that Koreans use to ferment and store foods, are the products of a people who have li.ved in communion with the land as well as the laws and order of nature. In prehistoric tin1es, a group of people began living as a community on a hilly area beside a riverbank They tilled the fertile land, sowed seeds and gathered the grain that ripened under the rain and sun. In order to store the harvested grain, they gathered clay from the land on which they lived and kneaded it, shaped vessels from it, and baked them over fire. The history of pottery thus began with plain and comb-patterned earthenware, with the history of onggi evolving from these origins as well. The term "onggi" refers to both glazed and unglazed pottery. Unglazed pottery is made from clay and fired. Also called earthenware, its surface is dull with a rough, coarse texture. Glazed pottery is left to .dry in the shade and then covered with a glaze made from the ash of burnt leaves, straw and wood before being fired. The glaze makes such pottery shiny with a smooth, hard surface.

P Âˇ-

Lee's wife Choi Bong-hee is always supportive of him, especially when he is frustrated with his work on the wheel.

It is not known exactly when onggi became a part of everyday Korean life. However, it is believed that onggi had been in use from around the Three Kingdoms period (1st century B.C.-A.D. 7th century), developing from the earthenware of prehistoric times that gradually became more durable and lighter. In

Samguksagi (History of the Three Kingdoms), it is recorded that the 31st king of Silla, Sinmun (r. 681-692), sent wedding gifts of rice, wine, oil, honey

and soy sauce to his bride, which suggests the use of onggi vessels. Also, a third-century tomb painting from the Goguryeo Kingdom depicts onggi-like vessels beside a well. Âˇ During the Goryeo (918-1392) and Joseon (1392-1910) dynasties, revolutionary advancement was achieved in Korean ceramics with the development of such highly refined wares as cheongja (celadon), buncheong (white slip porcelain), and baekja (white porcelain). Even so, onggi were still produced for everyday use. Onggi is therefore the most common and longest-used form of Korean pottery, made continuously from ancient times until today. The Korean people have long been nourished by such foodstuffs as doenjang(bean paste), ganjang (soy sauce), and kimchi, for which onggi vessels are so essential for their fermentation and storage that they came to be known as containers of everyday life. However, with the onset of industrialization and modernization, the presence of onggi declined noticeably. Plastic and stainless steel containers or mass-produced chinaware were favored over onggi for everyday use. As a result, onggi kilns were increasingly closed down. The kiln fires have not been completely extinguished, however. A few members of the last generation of artisans who have been making onggi all their lives

Lee Hyeon-hae makes onggi the traditional way. He shapes a pot on the wheel with the fine clay he dug from the hill behind his kiln.

still carry on the tradition, along with a handful of people who have been captivated by its unique brilliance and beauty. Located in Baegunmyeon, Jinan-gun, Jeollabuk-do province, Sonnae is a remote mountain community that has been an onggi-making village for hundreds of years. According to geomancy principles, the village is shaped like an iron cauldron, hence the name Sonnae, which comes from the word sot, or cauldron. Up until the 1970s, it was a typical onggi village with some 200 people, or 30 families, producing onggi for their livelihood. Today, broken pottery shards can be found scattered about, attesting to the village's history as a center of onggi production. Sonnae possesses ideal conditions for onggi malting: an abundance of clay and thick pine forests, which is needed to fuel the kilns. But nowadays, the village exists in name only as all but a few families have long moved out When shrinking demand for onggi brought production to a standstill, families were forced to relocate from Sonnae, which had no land available for farming. To this village, a "young man" by the name of Lee Hyeon-bae has since arrived to rekindle the fires of the deserted, dilapidated onggi kilns. At the age of 40, Lee is still young in terms of onggi masters. He was born in Jangye, ~ mgsu-n, not far from Sonnae, the youngest of two sons and three daughters of a poor family with no land of their own. While Lee's parents worked hard and long in other people's fields, Lee would often get so hungry that he would pick at the ea1then walls of the house. In fac~ there was nothing else to eat but Lee had an unusual taste for dirt, that led him to develop a keen interest in farming. After graduating from high school, he enrolled in the International College of Administration, Kyung Hee University because he wanted to learn about the produce from his native land and their processing. However, college proved to be a wholly different experience from what 59

he had anticipated College did not teach him what he wanted to learn about processing and working with Korean agricultural products. After floundering for a while, he took a year off from school and worked at a junk shop to earn money for tuition. This was when he became interested in onggi. Lee found

himself strongly attracted to the onggi that he used to cart off from the sauce jar terraces of people's homes. All different in shape and color, with a natural grace and beauty, he sensed that they were breathing as he handled them. Eventually, he began to think that he would like to make onggi with his own hands one day. But at the time he did not even know what an onggi kiln looked lil<e. After graduating from college he became a cook at the Hilton Hotel in Seoul where he was a chocolatier. After work, with a vague notion that someday he would make his own onggi, he stud-

ied carving and modeling. As he did so he became ever more entranced with the feel of the clay. As fate would have it, in the spring of 1991 he quit his job and put an end to his ten years in Seoul. Intending to realize his childhood dream of living off the la~d, he headed for the Jinggwang-ri onggi kiln in Beolgyo-eup, Boseong-gun, Jeollanam-do province. There he sought out the veritable onggi master Park Naseop, who at the time may have been the only person still using natural glazes. While working at a kiln that was part of a traditional culture center operated by the magazine Ppurigipeunnamu (Tree

with Deep Roots) Park's Jinggwang-ri onggi became widely known. In 1986, Park received the prime ministeJ0S award in the Jeonseung Handicraft Exhibition. For two years, Lee lived in Jinggwangri w here he devoted all his energy to learning about how to make onggi. Although it had been agreed that Lee would receive 200,000 won a month, the sales of onggi were so slow that he ended up living off the severance pay from his hotel job. Nevertheless, Lee found onggi making to be euphoric. As he came to appreciate the wisdom of ancient Koreans embodied therein, he - was overwhelmed with an indescribable

Onggi, dark brown pottery crocks and jars that Koreans use to ferment and store foods, are the products of a people who have lived in com-

rapture. It was a blissful time for Lee as he collected and treasured drawings discarded by his teacher. After completing his studies at Jinggwang-ri in April 1993, he heard that there was an onggi village in the Jinan highlands near his hometown, which led him to Sonnae village. In this ghost town of a village from where all the onggi

munion with the land as well as the laws and order of nature.

Simplicity and a feeling of familiarity emanate from the pots and vessels holding fruits, tnulitional cookies and tea (opposite page). Onggi of varying sizes are the products of Lee's traditional pot making (below).

masters had long since departed, Lee bought a mud-wall hut for three-and-ahalf sacks of rice that came from his home Day after day, wrestling with the potte(s wheel to make onggi in this desolate mountain village, Lee experienced much exhaustion and despair. But all this while, his wife, Choi Bong-bee, was unwavering in her support. Lee's classmate from middle school, Choi left an enviable life in the city to quietly support her husband in his personal quest. She now has the unpretentious and generous appearance of a country housewife. Indeed, she is much like an onggi jar on a crockery terrace, dutifully going about her business. Whether it is because he has such a loyal wife or because of his hard-earned skill, Lee's onggi works are sought out by many people in Korea and elsewhere. Several galleries have invited Lee to present exhibitions featuring onggi used for different purposes while a popular department store in Seoul approached him with an offer to establish an onggi shop for him on their premises. In addition, an increasing num.ber of people are taking lessons to learn the art of onggi making from Lee, so these days he is often called "teacher." All of this shows that people have come to recognize Lee's attistic as well as tenacious spirit. Whenever he does an interview he says he is afraid that grandiose phrases, such as "an onggi master who captures the spir~" will be used to describe him. Simple and goad-hearted, he says such words embarrass him. But more than anything else, he is an onggi maker who maintains steadfast values. Indeed, it can be said that Lee has a greater love for and deeper understanding of onggi than anyone else today. Lee adheres uncompromisingly to the traditional methods of onggi making, eveQ though the process is painstaking and .time consuming. He believes that this is the only way to make an onggi worthy of its name To make an onggi just like it was made in the pas~ it must be made from the clay that can be found 62

all over Korea, glazed with a natural glaze of gray loam and ash, and conform to traditional shapes. For Lee, the process of making onggi in the traditional way begins with digging up clay from the mountains, which is then spread out on an open field and left there exposed to the elements for several months. The clay is then kneaded, trodden on and pounded and formed into a large lump. Next it is pared down with a blade, much like peeling fruit, to get rid of lumps and foreign particles. After this process has been repeated several times, the large sand particles are removed with only small ones remain-

ing. If the large grains are not removed, there is a danger of holes forming during the firing, that can cause the onggi to explode. On the other hand, the fine grains make the vessel more durable and form minute holes, which enable the onggi to breathe. After the clay is prepared, it is placed on the wheel and spun to form the basic shape. Firs~ the base of the onggi is made and then the clay is rolled into long pieces like rice cake rolls, and coiled up atop the base. As the wheel is spun with the fo~ the hands shape the basic form. When the onggi begins to take shape, the inside is smoothed by hand with a

small, flat wcxxlen disk while the outside is carefully tapped with a wcxxlen implement to smooth out the surface. A wet leather strip is used to shape the mouth of onggi, which is handled with loving care as if shaping the lips of a woman. The vessels are then left in the shade to dry. Once dry, they are covered in glaze. Sometimes the surface is decorated with quick, rough strokes depicting clouds, reeds, willows, and geese. The finished onggi are then moved to the kiln. The next step of firing the kiln is the most difficult and important phase of the onggi-making process. The life of onggi will depend on how well the fire

is maintained. First, a fire is lit and it is kept burning for two days and nights to remove any moisture from the inside of the kiln. Then the fire is built up with firewcxxl being placed in each vent to make sure that the fire burns evenly throughout the kiln. When the inside of the kiln is as hot as a smelting furn ace, the glaze begins to melt and the onggi is baked to a deep reddish-brown. At this point, to

prevent cold air from getting in, all the vents are closed off and the fir e is allowed to burn itself out. The kiln is left to cool down for three days, after which the onggi is removed from the kiln, shiny and full of life like a newborn baby. Not every onggi that comes out of the kiln is intact, however. Some turn out crooked or caved in. As in nature, within a batch there are attractive and not so attractive ones. As such, onggi created in this fashion are like children that need to be anxiously watched over and constantly kept close at one's side. Lee's onggi philosophy is quite unique. To him it is more important that onggi be able to "breathe," rather than being beautiful. These days, whether it's people or pottery, a sleek appearance is desired. The crocks and jars on the sauce jar terraces of the past might have seemed unrefined, but they were warm and earthy vessels that lived and breathed. Plain and simple as they were, they fulfilled their purpose to a tee. To those who visit Sonnae onggi village, Lee makes one request: avoid the new four-lane highway and instead take the steep, winding old road that goes over Moraeje. Passing by Moraeje and coming upon the Jinan highlands will be refreshing to the mind and body, like a peppermint candy in your mouth. This exhilarating freshness is what Lee hopes his visitors will feel toward his onggi. +

It has been nearly a decade since Lee Hyeonbae settled in an adobe cottage in Sonnae Village. The pile of pots in the front yard testifies to the time he has lived here. 63

~ -An~og

is home 111'f!!tBe-seowon8tllis1oricii .,.·'!~li· as ;lf:ontucian scllo'tJirun llv Yi Hw'imo toenname Toe oillaf.inlllB lliSIIJf.VIIIIIorBa's Contuci'imism, antlwlllch Ia enllironment

ndong is located in the noithern area of Gyeongsangbukdo province. In Korea, it is common knowledge that Andong is a village of seonb~ individuals having vast knowledge and impeccable character who exemplify the ideals of Confucianism, as well as yangban, the literati or aristocracy with hereditary rights to hold ministry posts in the government in the past. Korea embraced Confucian culture from the era of Three Kingdoms - Goguryeo, Silla, and Baekje (1st century BC-A.D. 7th century)-and during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) the seonbi gradually consolidated their status as the elite social class. The lifestyle of seonbi also became stylized under the influence of extremely rigid Confucian noims. A seonbi who served the government had the potential to be appointed yeonguijeong (the equivalent of today's prime minister), the highest-ranking gov66

ernment position except for the king. And whether he voluntarily left his government post or was dismissed and led a solitary life in a rural village, as a seonb~ he was obligated to continue lecturing, promoting, and practicing the principles of Confucianism. Accordingly, seonbi received the utmost respect from the popular masses for leading such an exemplary life of virtue and justice. It was necessary for a seonbi to enter government service to actually apply his virtues for the benefit of society. This involved passing the state-administered examinations called gwageo, which only members of the yangban class were qualified to take. But since the examinations were always extremely difficult, only a few of the seonbi could pass and enter government service each year. For the seonb~ a government post represented an oppo1tunity to put his beliefs and values into practice. But they did not become frustrated or disappointed if they failed to

Sosu Seowon (opposite page, top), its entrance (above), and a stone flagpole foundation that stands to the left of the entrance (opposite page bottom)

enter government service. On the contrary, they would visit mral communities, spend time with retired teachers to enhance their knowledge and character, and also teach the younger generation. Even the seonbi who served in a government post would teach students in their

spare time and hoped to become a teacher by continuing to acquire knowledge Those who were regarded as teachers commanded far greater respect than high-ranking bureaucrats. Seonbi who managed to enter government service would frequently give up their positions and return home, if the government mled unjustly or if the king did not heed approptiate advice The seonbi were required to not cherish government posts but instead to think nothing of giving up these privileges because they had to be careful not to be consumed by greed for personal wealth and power, and to always be critical of any form of injustice When a seonbi retired from a government position, he usually chose to live in a remote, scenic setting where he built a village schoolhouse and created an atmosphere conducive to teaching academics and proper character. Seonggyungwan, which was the national academy during the Joseon period, and hyanggyo, local public insti-

tutes that also functioned as Confucian shrines, were state institutions and thus akin to today's state universities. In comparison, seowon and seodang were private Confucian academies that offered instruction in the teachings of revered Confucian scholars and statesmen, while serving as a local forum available to any seonbi The difference between the two was that seowon included a shrine to honor the sages with regular memorial rites. Andong is home to three seowon of historical significance: Sosu Seowon, the nation's first seowon; Dosan Seowon, which began as a Confucian academy operated by Yi Hwang (pen name Toegye, 1510-1570), the neo-Confucian philosopher who is a true pillar of Korea's Confucianism, and which later became a seowon when Yi's disciples built a shrine in his honor; and Byeongsan Seowon, which features the quintessence of architectural elegance

with its perfect harmony with the surrounding natural environment A seowon was generally built on a site with exceptional natural scenery, often at the foot of a peaceful mountain, or in a valley or rural village. The selection of a particular location derived from an intention to leave behind secular affairs to concentrate wholly on studies. Accordingly, an ancient temple site or a crumbling Buddhist temple was sometimes chosen as a seowon site. Sosu Seowon is located

on such a site. Because seowon, unlike ordinary schoolhouses, also served as a shtine to revered scholars and statesmen of the pas~ its location was always closely associated with the birthplace of its honored scholar. A seowon thus included a building called sadang, a shrine for performing memorial services. Sosu Seowon was built at the birthplace of An Hyang (1243-1306), the founder of Korean neoConfucianism who lived during the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392). Dosan

Seowon was firÂˇst built as a seodang and later developed into a seowon with a shtÂˇine honoring Yi Hwang. If you are heading toward Andong from Seoul, I urge you to first stop by Sosu Seowon in Yeongju, Sunheungmyeon, Yeongpung-gun, before making your way into Andong. This original seowon in Korea was founded by Ju Sebung (1495-1554), a scholar-official devoted to the study of neo-Confucianism. In 1542, Ju established Baegundong Seowon to honor An Hyang (1243-1306), the founder of Korean neo-Confucianism, upon his appointment as the county magistrate of Punggi, the birthplace of An Hyang, whom he had always revered. This academy stands amid a grove of old pine trees that are several hundred years old. It was originally the site of a large Buddhist temple called Suksusa, as evidenced by the 4meter-high danggan jiju, a flagpole foundation stone, that stands to the left of the seowon entrance. When the seowon's framework was being erected, Ju Se-bung enshrined a portrait of An Hyang and

Andong's Hahoe Village (opposite page top) A scene from Hahoe Byeolsingut (above) Byeongsan Seowon (opposite page bottom) Byeongsan Seowon's Mandaeru Pavilion (right)

decided on the name Baegundong Seowon. During the Joseon Dynasty, the state-run Seonggyungwan and hyan&,oyo generally enshrined the ancestral tablets of sages, but the seowon enshrined their portraits so that the scholars and students studying at the seowon could picture the face of the virtuous sage they admired and Âˇthus revere them even more. The portrait of An Hyang enshrined at this seowon was created with a very delicate touch. Ordinarily, the portrait is not on public display. The role that Yi Hwang played in the history of Sosu Seowon should not be overlooked as well. Sosu Seowon underwent a major expansion in 1550 when Yi Hwang was appointed the magistrate of Punggi-gun. Yi appealed to the cou1t for a signboard written in the king's own hand. The king assented and wrote four Chinese characters, Sosu Seowon. Such official recognition from the king helped to boost Sosu Seowon's social status, in addition to providing practical benefits, such as tax and compulsory labor exemptions. Yi Hwang dedicated himself to consolidating the seowon's status as a forum for learning by enforcing learning rules to help students study more diligently. He sought to acquire greater knowledge and train disciples through the seowon. An Hyang was the scholar who introduced neo-Confucianism to Korea,

along with its philosophy of the universe and mankind. As an academic institution the seowon served two roles: teaching Chinese classics and performing memorial services for its enshrined sage. The building layout of Sosu Seowon, because it was originally a private shrine and later developed into an educational institution, features various non-traditional elements, with distinctive architectural characteristics. Over the years, Sosu Seowon und e~w nt a series of expansion and remodeling work, such that first-time visitors may think the structures are haphazardly laid out Upon passing through the front gate, visitors will see an imposing stru ct ure know n as Myeongnyundang, the lecture hall where scholars attended lectures. This type of lecture hall usually included rooms with ondol (floor heating), built around a wide hall area. This lecture hall has a signboard reading Baegundong, while on its northern side hangs a tablet with the Chinese characters Sosu Seowon that was written by the king, signifying this is the central building of the academy. The smaller

buildings were used as dormitories for scholars. Because it was Korea's first seowon, it features several cultural relics and also provides source mate1ial for various research subjects. Even today, researchers are invited to visit this academy to conduct in-depth research. The branches and leaves of the ancient pine trees densely surrounding the academy all lean toward the nearby buildings, while the aroma of pine trees waft fragrantly throughout the compound, creating a truly serene atmosphere. Visitors to Andong invariably head straight to Hahoe Village, but if this is your destination, you will not regret a visit to Byeongsa n Seowon. The Nakdonggang River gently curves around Hahoe Village. On opposite sides of Mt. Hwasan you will find Hahoe Village and Byeongsan Seowon, with both being readily accessible. This seowon, located in Byeongsa n-ri, Pungcheon-myeon, enshrines Ryu Seong-ryong (1542-1607, pen name Seoae) who played an instrumental role in repulsing Japanese troops during the 1592 Japanese invasion of 69

Korea Originally called Pungak Seodang and located in Pungsan-hyeon, Andongbu, during the Goryeo Dynasty, it was relocated by Ryu Seong-ryong to its present site in 1572 In 1863 it received official recognition from the king as Byeongsan Seowon. It was among the 47 seowon that survived a comprehensive, nationwide reorganization of Confucian academies that was implemented in 1868 by the Daewongun, Prince Yi Hung-sean who served as regent for his son King Gojong. The main attraction of this academy is the nature-ftiendly design of its buildings. It could be said that the buildings have been quietly nestled onto the grounds without the slightest disruption of the surrounding natural landscape. No matter which building you enter, you will notice that no structure obstructs your view or conflicts with the nearby surroundings. This reflects an architecture that embodies the frugality and integrity of the Joseon seonbi Some architects say this academy is a gift that you can enjoy only if you do not covet it. The academy is situated at the foot of a gently sloping mountain, with the mountain and natural scenery combining with the academy to create an exquisite scene. The buildings produce a uniquely tranquil harmony while at the same time being austere without superficiality. The gate in front of Byeongsan Seowon is Bogyemun, which is intended to symbolize cleansing the body accustomed to hypoetisy and impurities of the secular world. As you walk through the gate, you can see Ipgyodang, a lecture hall, below the long Mandaeru Pavilion, which measures seven gan, a traditional length of measure referring to the distance between two columns. It is this Mandaeru building of which you should take special note. Climb onto the broad wooden floors of Mandaeru and look all around. You will feel your heart opening up and your being able to intimately communicate with the surrounding nature. From this architectural structure, you can profoundly appreciate the concept of nothingness that advocated having everything remain 70

in its natural state, which col.Ild be called an aesthetics of antinomy. The cornfottable and relaxed open space of the building and the unobstructed views no matter where you look allows the nearby natural scenety to come surging into Mandaeru. Apatt from the pavilion railing, there are no ornaments, walls or doors to block your view. The pillm·s at the four corners are round and thus unobstructive to your interaction with the outside world. Being devoid of ornaments and any visually offensive elements signifies an emptying of the mind. In this building, it is taught that frugality and austerity can create a cornfottable space within which a person can complete the process of pmifying the mind. As such, this building is not just an m-chitectural structure, it represents a selfpottrait of Joseon seonbi who considered integrity and frugality as guiding principles of their life. On both sides of Ipgyodang are the residential quarters where scholars used to live, and in the center is a hall where lectures were held. Behind Ipgyodang is a path that leads up to Jondeoksa, the academy's Confucian shtine. The spirits of past residents are melded within Byeongsan Seowon, which at first glance appears to have been built without eat·eful planning. The steps hewn from logs that are laid out to Mandaeru Pavilion, the moderation of the height of the walls on the four sides, and lack of any attificiallandscaping all clearly testify to Koreans' attitude toward nature-appreciating nature without attempting to enclose or possess it. From Ipgyodang, you can see Mandaeru Pavilion, Mt. Byeongsan that envelops it like a folding screen, and the sky, as well as the Nakdonggang River serenely flowing past the pavilion and its pillars. Although it is rm·e that frugality and simplicity can be so impressive, what is more incredible is that an ancient architectural structure hidden in a remote mountain can teach you this. It was early in the morning when my friends and I arrived at Byeongsan Seowon. We were so moved by the perfect harmonization of the architecture

with the surrounding environment, which appeared to have existed together forever with a faint mist hanging over Mt. Byeongsan. It was all the more beautiful because of the rays of the rising sun, which practically mesmerized us. If we were not bound by a schedule, we would have found somewhere to spend the night and stayed for at least a day. After looking around Sosu Seowon, Korea's first Confucian academy, and Byeongsan Seowon that represents the spirit of Joseon literati who aspir·ed to harmonize with nature, om next destination was Dosan Seowon. The road that extends from central Andong to the nottheast toward Mt. Cheongnyangsan is called Toegyero (there is also a Toegyero in Seoul). Drive along National Road No. 35 -the Nakdonggang flows along the right side of the road- and head towm·d Ye-an. When you reach Andong Lake, the upper reaches of the Nakdonggang, you will see a path leading to Dosan Seowon. Dosan Seowon is the center for Confucian scholars from the Gyeongsang-do provinces and the site of a shrine dedicated to Yi Hwang. A memorial service in his honor is held each spring and fall. Dosan Seowon consists of Dosan Seodang, which was personally designed by Yi Hwang, Jeongyodang that his disciples built, Bakyakjae and Gwangmyeongsil. The academy represents Toegye's life and his ideology, while offering glimpses of his spirit. The seodang building measures only three gan in length, including its kitchen. This compact building helps you to appreciate the frugality ofjoseon era's .seonbi who considered it sinful to crave things beyond your needs. While Toegye was living there, the Andong magistrate, distressed that such a respected scholar was living in a cramped and run-down structure, offered to expand the building but Toegye is said to have refused adamantly. Toegye cleared a small plot at the foot of the mountain behind Mongcheon, where he planted his favotite Japanese aprico~ jujube and pine trees. He chose to not build a fence to

Âˇ~ '\

enclose this plot but left it open so that it could be linked to the forest behind, another example of a conscious effott to embrace nature Gwangmyeongsil houses the books Toegye used as well as the books presented by the king. Apatt from serving as a library, Gwangmeyongsil was also used as a publishing house in the past Nongunjeongsa, the building on the left before going up toward Jeongyodang, is I-shaped, a rather unusual architectural design. The scholars who studied at Dosan Seodang used this building as a dormitory. To reach Jeongyodang, you have to climb a steep incline of stone stairs. At Jeongyodang, lectures were presented to scholars who came from all parts of the country. If you sit on the floor and look all around, you will realize that the overall character of the buildings at this academy emphasizes an extremely rigid and disciplinarian environment But it was Yi Hwang's followers who later created this atmosphere of solemnity and authority. Leave Jeongyodang behind and you will come to a small museum that exhibits a number of Yi Hwang's personal belongings, including a pillow, straw mats, walking stick, ink stones, and some of his writings. Among the exhibited items is an astronomical device, called honcheon ui, used for observing celestial movements and constellations. Toegye personally designed this instrument and as such, it is a notewotthy relic that reveals his serious interest in nature and science Nearby the academy is a small house on a hill on the opposite side known as Sisadan, which was built on a raised platform to commemorate its being the site of a special civil service examination that the king authorized in 1792 for the scholars from the Gyeongsang-do provinces. From Goryeo throughout Joseon, esteemed civil service examinations were always conducted at the Seoul palace with the king in attendance But because Toegye's academic achievements were so highly regarded, the king allowed a special examination to be held at Dosan Seowon The spirit of the seonbi who lauded

Dosan Seowon (above) Jeongyodang, a lecture hall at the center of Dosan Seowon (right)

integrity, frugality, and couttesy is still evident in the daily lifestyle of Andong residents even today. Among the best-known foods of Andong are heotjesabap and geonjinguksu. In regions other than Andong, the most savory foods typically involve meat or seafood items, with considerable seasoning and condiments and whose delectable taste can be fully enjoyed only with specialized culinary skills. But these .two well-known Andong dishes can be easily prepared by practically anyone. Many head families of dans are scattered about the vicinity of Andong. These houses perform jesa, or ancestral memotial rites, frequently, with several rites being performed in certain months. The people of Andong use no seasoning or condiments when they prepare jesa food, which tastes simple but with a subtle flavor. This jesa food came

to be commercialized and made available to the public in the form of heotjesabap, consisting of a vatiety of mostly vegetable dishes. Geonjinguksu is another Andong dish that symbolizes the seonbi spirit of frugality, which in this case sought to prevent over-eating. It is a simple dish of noodles served in fish stock When you have finished your tour of Confucian academies and have also sampled these two simple dishes, you have seen about 30 percent of the traditional culture of Andong. To experience the remaining 70 percent, you should stay there for at least 20 days. + 71

MARKETS

Seoul Gyeong-dong

KimMi-ok Freelance Writer 72

eople often complain that the advent of spring after a long winter brings with it a loss of appetite, listlessness, and weakened physical condition. To overcome these symptoms people will eat fresh seasonal vegetables or take hanyak, traditional medicine, or Chinese herbal medicine as it is commonly called. The unique fragrance which belongs only to hanyak readily comes to mind when I envision the preparation of such medicine and the traditional pots used to boil the ingredients. There is a place where you can experience this distinctive scent.

The entrance to Seoul's Gyeong-dong Herbal Medicine Mart bustles with vendors and buyers. 73

As the subway Line 1 train stops at Jegi Station, you might sense that it is different from other subway stations. Of the numerous subway stations scattered about the city of Seou~ Jegi Station is the only place where you are greeted by the unique fragrance of herbal medicine upon taking the first step up the stairs from the platform. The scent intensifies as you head out exit No. 2 toward the Gyeong-dong Market. With each step closer to the market from the underground station, firsttime visitors inevitably become fascinated with the unusual aroma that causes them to wonder what they are about to encounter. The first thing that catches your eye are the various hanyak ingredients piled in front of Singeumgang Pharmacy. One is naturally drawn to the large plastic bags containing a wide assottment of herbs, teas and other ingredients used to brew medicine. The bags all have labels ranging from familiar names such as green tea, Solomom's seal tea, and Chinese matrimony vine tea to wholly unfamiliar nomenclature. Shoppers are approached by merchants asking them what they are looking for or interested in By showing interest in the merchandise, you can easily engage in a friendly and informative conversation with the shopkeeper, even if you are not looking for anything in particular. Nevertheless, salespeople are more than willing to explain the effects of an ingredient on your well-being. In front of the bags of materials, there is a pile of "twigs," that a shopkeeper is cutting in pieces with a small chopper. An elderly woman is squatting down beside him paying close attention to the twigs and the cutting process. When I asked her what the twigs are called, she only answered "Gogapi." When I asked what it is used for, she simply remarked that it was good for your legs. Another lady standing nearby added that it is effective for arthritis. The lady, who came to buy an elm sapling, appeared to be a regular customer. She goes on to explain each material and what it is good 74

The Gyeong-dong Herbal Medicine Mart overflows with clinics where acupuncture is performed, pharmacies with licensed pharmacists, mills that process medicinal materials into powder, and processing facilities where ingredients are transformed into liquid potions. An herbal scent permeates the air.

for, joking that she might as well own the shop, knowing so much about the products. This is the beginning of the long rows of stores that form the Gyeong-dong Herbal Medicine Mart. The long line of stores along the wide road, the materials for medicines displayed outside the stores, and the large arched sign reading "Seoul Gyeong-dong Herbal Medicine Mart" 50 meters ahead, all indicate that this is the heart of the traditional medicine commercial district. Korea's largest hanyak market, some 1,000 stores make up the Gyeong-dong Herbal Medicine Mart that covers the entire Jegi-dong and Yongdu-dong areas of Dongdaemun-gu. One block past the

market, starting from Jegi Station at Jegidong and going toward Cheongnyangni we come to the market district dealing in herbs and dried fish. A traditional market, it has shops dealing in everything from agricultural products to seafood and meat products available at affordable prices. This area eventually leads to 'the retail/ wholesale fruit market at Cheongnyangni. The Gyeong-dong Herbal Medicine Mart got its start in the late 1960s with the establishment of the Cheongnyangni Station and the Majangdong Express Bus Terminal since it was a natural and convenient commercial site for merchants processing or selling materials used in

Nothing but dry twigs to the unknowing, these are all medicinal materials beneficial to promoting good health and well being (left). Koreans feel invigorated at the sight of ginseng roots (top). Deer antlers are a popular medicinal ingredient (above).

Inside the market is packed with traditional medicine clinics and shops. A dannting array of medicinal stuff, each tagged with its name, is waiting for customers (above). Medicinal material shops and street vendors (right)

hanyak. The area also has historical roots as the site of Bojewon, a provider of welfare services for the sick and poor established by royal decree in the early Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). The Gyeongdong Herbal Medicine Mart overflows with clinics where acupuncture is performed, pharmacies with licensed pharmacists, mills that process medicinal materials into powder, and processing facilities where ingredients are transformed into liquid potions. An herbal scent permeates the air. The south entry to the Gyeong-clong Herbal Medicine Mart is lined with pharmacies. Although the corridor is not bustling with people like a general retail market, it is worth walking through to immerse yourself in the pungent fragrance that wafted all the way to the subway station. The pharmacies all look the same but at the same time different. Mills also share the market space with the pharmacies. After a while, you discover an array of one-story pharmacies that are quite old. Here, merchants are busy processing and transferring medicinal materials from the numerous large bags into small bags. The scent of 76

Current market prices for various medicinal ingredients are posted at the entrance of the market for the information of consumers.

hanyak is undoubtedly an integral part of these merchants. With its concentration of so many shops, it is no surprise that some 70 percent of all hanyak ingredients disttibuted throughout Korea passes through the Gyeong-clong Herbal Medicine Mart. By offering customers a full spectrum of materials and direct shipment from prcr ducers at favo,rable prices, the Gyeongdong Herbal Medicine Matt cuts costs by eliminating unnecessary distribution steps. The market offers an extra benefit by providing customers a firsthand look at diverse materials, everything from the most widely used ingredients in herbal medicine to the rarest items available.

The market's competitive prices for ingredients ensure that individual consumers can buy with confidence. A high-rise apartment complex stands nearby. With the strong hanyak aroma emanating from the huge market that is within easy walking distance, its residents may well have a lesser need for herbal medicine. The market area seems to exude a sense of contentment among visitors even though they have neither consumed nor bought anything. Reaching the stores at the Gyeongdong Herbal Medicine Mart is anything but complicated. The shops are arranged in an orderly manner, in a chessboardlike grid. Arched entrance signs are at the

four corners of the market distrc~ prcr viding convenient reference points. Among the signs located at entrance No. 7 at the north end is one with the word Honghwadang. Floating out from this shop is traditional Korean music that arouses the curiosity of passersby. Across the road is a totally different world-the Gyeong-clong Market. Though this market is much like that which can be found in just about any neighborhood offering agricultural products and fresh fish, it does include wholesale merchants selling ginseng and other ingredients for medicine on the second floor. Blanketed by the heavy scent of hanyak, the fragrance of strawberries coming from the street vendors is especially refreshing. One of the greatest joys of visiting the area is to look around the street vendors across from the marketplace. In early spring, in particular, seasonal herbs and vegetables to spruce up a meal are plentiful as well as flavorful strawberries. Inside a medicine shop, a shopper is haggling with the shopkeeper over the price of ginseng. The owner speaks with confidence about the quality of the ginseng, so fresh the dirt on its surface is still moist. With hanyak ingredients on one side and fresh strawberries on the other, I have a hard time trying to concentrate on a particular item, even when a merchant offers to help. I discover dried chrysanthemums and remember the chrysanthemum tea I used to enjoy at Insa-dong. I end up buying 3,000 won worth. Ah, the strong smell of chrysanthemums that flows out as I grasp the bag of dried flowers. For whatever reason, I suddenly feel spirited and swing the black plastic bag merrily as I resume my tour of the market. I feel like I have known the stores and the hanyak ingredients for a long time, as if all of this is familiar to me. There's no fuss, no frivolousness. It takes only a brief time for visitors to become totally immersed in the unique fragrance of the Seoul Gyeong-dong Herbal Medicine Mart. + 77

CUISINE

Tastes and Refinement of

KOREAN CUISINE Koo Chun-sur Director, World Food Research Institute

eat at ordinary times and why they ost people traveling to a foreign country for the first time came to enjoy such food. Since eating is look forward to the new essential for survival, it is natural for everyone, regardless of their social status things they are going to see and the adventures they might or background, to have an interest in experience there. Their pmticular interest food. But how much do foreigners who might be a traditional building of unique visit Korea really know about Korean architecture, or the trees and natural food? Of all the various Korean food, scenery of the country. It may even be a which do they consider to be the most Korean and therespecial religious site, or unusual fore are eager to experience? clothing and food. A discussion of Korean food In surveys of In short, people should start with kimchi. foreigners residing have different in Korea, a majoriinterests. But one Rice and kimchi are such interest that most ty of respondents cite kirnch~ bulgoeveryone shares is essential elements of the a curiosity about gi, and traditional Korean diet that practically the everyday life vegetable panof the local people, cakes bindaetteok everyone who comes to as the most enjoyespecially their able or represenfood. But foreign Korea will try kimchi at least visitors usually end tative Korean once. food. Some forup sampling the eigners who visitdelicacies the local people enjoy mained Korea during ly on special occasions or a regional spethe 1988 Seoul Olympics took an immecialty, not the regular fare that the residiate liking to instant noodles. The noodents eat everyday. dles come in a disposable bowl, together Today, with industrialization taking with various spices and freeze-dried vegroot practically worldwide, hamburgers, etable and meat garnishes. They are ready to eat in just a few minutes after pizza, and ice cream have become global foods, with many kinds of food now available around the world regardless of their origin However, travelers are interKorean royal court cuisine displayed at a hotel restaurant in Seoul ested in finding out what local residents

hot water is added to the bowl, and are reasonably priced, not to mention good tasting. Instant noodles were especially popular among people who were always on the go during the Olympic Games, and having to eat on the run. Unfortunately, as convenient as they may be, instant noodles are hardly a traditional Korean food. What are some unusual types of Korean food that foreigners might enjoy during their stay in Korea? What food will visitors recall back in their own countries when, like Marco Polo after his visit to China, they describe the "strange and bizarre food" experienced there? When I visited Vietnam, I became enthralled with the flavor of durian, a fmit with a revolting odor. In fac~ many people will not touch this fruit because of its offensive smell But it tastes great and makes you crave for more once you get past the smell The herb used in pho, the Vietnamese beef and rice-noodle soup, is also known for its foul aroma, smelling like rotten bedbugs to some. Many foreigners will pass on trying pho, but for those not deterred by its unusual smell, they will likely come back for more. Apart from its rice staple, Korean cuisine features a variety of foods based on fermented grains as well as beans and fish, which include kimchi, soybean paste, soy sauce, red pepper paste, and pickled shrimp. Because of the pungent smell that comes from these types of food, many foreigners are inclined to avoid Korean food. Once they acquire a taste for Korean cuisine, however, their life in Korea will be delightfully transformed as they journey into the exciting world of Korean food, which is inexpensive, great tasting, and healthy.

Excellem HeaiUI Food

Naturally, a discussion of Korean food should start with kimchi. Rice and kimchi are such essential elements of the 80

Korean diet that practically everyone who comes to Korea will try kimchi at least once. It can be difficult to explain kimchi to foreigners because of its countless variety, with individual households making their own version. The most basic or standard type of kimchi is made from Chinese cabbage. The Chinese cabbage is salted and then rinsed. Next, the leaves are stuffed with various ingredients such as sliced radish and scallions, oysters, fermented fish, pear, and cooked rice, packed into crockery jars, and left to ferment at cool temperatures. The amount of powdered red pepper used depends on personal preference. According to conventional wisdom, kimchi that is allowed to ferment in an earthenware jar buried in the ground before the ground freezes will taste the best. As each household adds a different amount of ground red pepper, whose spiciness also varies depending on the type of pepper, kimchi can range from very spicy hot to mild.

Cabbage kimchi (above left) Watery mustard-leafkimchi (above right)

Scallions, garlic, and ginger are included to help promote the fermentation process and add to the kimchi's zesty flavor. These ingredients are what produce the smell unique to ltimchi. People who are not used to this smell or who avoid spicy food may not take a liking to kimchi. However, many who have eaten kimchi several times come to enjoy it so much that it is never absent during a meal. -Until about 50 years ago, Japanese shunned kimchi due to its spiciness and pungent garlic smell. Today, however, an increasing number of people are turning to kimchi as a health food or because they like the taste, while some Japanese students even mistake kimchi as a traditional Japanese food. Because it is fermented, kimchi has a distinct smell, and while most kimchi is spicy, there are varieties that are not especially spicy or strong smelling.

There is one Korean food that even some Koreans have a hard time getting used to due to its overwhelming malodor: cheonggukjang This soup, which ._ to some smells like something decomposing, is prepared by cooking soybean paste fermented at a high temperature ~ with water, pork, radish kimchi, and bean curd. It is usually eaten with rice. Since many people find cheonggukjang's smell to be offensive, they are quick to turn up their noses at it. But this soup also has a fascinating power of making one come back for more after a first taste. It has become more popular lately because it was scientifically proven to be beneficial for preventing high blood pressure, diabetes, and cancer, with many people who did not enjoy cheonggukjang before now eating it regularly. Cheonggl.Jkjang is inexpensive and highly beneficial for people with weight problems and high cholesterol. Restaurants often serve it in winter, with a meal consisting of cheonggukjang, a

bowl of rice, and one or two side dishes costing from $4 to $6. Pluck up your courage and challenge this smelly, but simple, savory soup widely enjoyed by Koreans.

If you were to look for the ugliest

fish in the markets of Korea or Vietnam, in most cases you would no doubt point to the angler fish. This fish has no scales with its blackish skin having no luster. Its mouth is so big that Koreans call it agu, which is a dialectical term for "mouth." At first glance, it looks like a catfish, but even catfish are more attractive. Until Korea suffered from an acute food short-

age following the end of World War II, this fish was regarded as being worthless, causing fishermen to throw it back in the sea, while complaining of their "rotten luck" But when it is cooked well, the tender, white non-fatty meat and unique flavor are well capable of winning over your palate. The only drawback is that the dishes prepared from this fish are invariably spicy. You also have to be careful of its large, needle-sharp teeth. In any case, it is highly regarded today, as evidenced by restaurants specializing exclusively in agutang, a soup made with the angler fish, and agujjim, steamed angler fish. You will be missing a rare treat if you return to your country without sampling this bizarre, ugly-looking fish. Unlike cheonggukjang, a dish of agutang or agujjim (two to three servings) is priced at $25 to $50, and rice must be ordered separately. It also tastes better when accompanied with soju, a local distilled liquor.

fish, whose poison is so potent that its eggs can be lethal. In France, oysters are expensive. In Korea, there is one fish that is neither particularly tasty nor attractive, but which sells for more than $200-$300 per fish: hongeo, or skate. Skate is eaten after it is well fermented rather than eaten raw or cooked. This fish, when fermented, produces a stinging ammonia gas that can jolt your senses awake. People who have never experienced hongeo before can be easily daunted by its ammonia-like smell, unwilling to try even a tiny morsel. But people do take a liking to it once they get used to its distinctive "bite." It is even said that in Korea

a feast is not a feast without a serving of minced skate. The people of the coastal areas of Korea's Honam, or southwest, region invariably serve hongeojjim, steamed skate, on special occasions such as weddings. It is extremely difficult to describe how it tastes. And if you are worried about becoming ill after eating this fermented fish, I have never heard of such an incidence.

Westerners normally discard the heads, intestines, and gills of fish while

Tourists are often taken aback upon learning the prices of fish in the markets of Korea or Japan. This is similar to Koreans who are astounded at how pricey caviar is in the markets of northern Europe. In Japan, high-end fish include sea bream, fresh tuna, and swelleating only the body. This is also the case with typical urban housewives in Seoul. As such, agmijeo~ or pickled fish gills, is an unusual and rare specialty even in Korea. Fish gills function Ii< ~ a brush to filter out impurities when fish take in Âˇwater for oxygen. In most cases, gills are tough and do not taste good even after cooking. Thus they are the first to be discarded, together with the intestines. However, gills, when mixed with spices and fermented, turn into expensive, tasty agarnijeot In Japan, restaurants that serve sea bream or codfish will serve a dish of fish head at a customer's request. Agamijeot includes the head intact, along with fish cartilage and intestines. The cartilage and gills are pounded with 82

a knife to soften them, then mixed with various spices and left to ferment. One would think that being made from ordinarily discarded fish parts agamijeot would be cheap, but it is actually very expensive. I once visited a highland area (about 600 meters above sea level) while conducting research on farming villages. There, I had dinner at the home of a relative of a co-worker who had accompanied me on the trip. Agamijeot was served as a side dish with our meal, which I found to be a delicious treat. Returning home, I asked my wife to buy agamijeot on her next trip to the market. I thought that it would not cost much and was surprised when my wife told me that she refused to buy agamijeot because it was too expensive. Agamijeot is not found on restaurant menus. Because it is most often served as a side dish, you might find it on the table at a Korean restaurant offering full-course meals, if you are lucky. Sampling pickled fish gills is another memorable experience that foreign tourists can enjoy during their stay in Korea.

Korea has been an agrarian country until quite recently. As such, Koreans came to observe rituals in which the "" king would personally visit farming villages during certain occasions of the farming season, such as rice planting, to help out in the fields. The king also prepared food for the government officials and villagers who participated in the ritual and prayed for a bountiful harvest. Because a great many people participated in this ritual, a cow would be slaughtered and everything including the bones and intestines cooked together to make a soup, to which cooked rice was added before being served. The altar set up to perform the ritual was called seolJongdan. The popular beef and rice soup seollongtang, which Koreans often enjoy for lunch and say is invigorating, gets its name from this altar.

Korea's terrain is mainly mountainous with few plains. However, broad expanses of open fields can be found in the southwestern region. In the past, a handful of landlords owned a great deal of land while many households engaged in tenant farming on individual tracts. When celebratory events were held at the homes of the wealthy, a feast would be prepared. The upper-class people would eat first (Koreans have a custom of preparing far more food than is necessary) and the remaining food was served to the workers. Korean meals consist of a staple (rice or barley) accompanied by various foods (sauces, vegetables, fish, and meat). Workers and people of the lower class acquired a habit of placing various vegetables and meat into a large bowl and then mixing them together with rice. Once after a feast was over and the work-

ers were eating this rice mixed with vegetables, called bibimbap, a group of upper-class guests arrived late. There was no other food left over and thus they were served bibimbap. Thereafter, the upper class continued to enjoy bibimbap, which is now a renowned local specialty of Jeonju. Bibimbap typically consists of white rice, cooked bean sprouts, meat, pan-fried zucchini, and other vegetables. The rice and vegetables are mixed with a red pepper paste prepared especially for bibimbap. A serving of bibimbap will usually cost $5-$8. +

eople have an emotional attachment to fireflies. In recent years, however, due to the environmental changes brought about by industrialization and urbanization, the firefly's natural habitat areas have drastically shrunk, which has made fireflies an indicator for measuring the extent of environmental degradation. Only 20 to 30 years ago fireflies were a common sight, but now they have become a nostalgic rarity, highlighted on television shows. In recent years, their natural habitats have been increasingly destroyed and disturbed through envi-

P 84

ronmental damage resulting from the modernization of rural areas and changes in agricultural methods involving excessive reliance on pesticides and chemical fertilizers, as well as street lights that interfere with the ability of fireflies to communicate with each other. Indeed, with all these challenges to its survivability, it is no wonder that firefly sightings are so infrequent nowadays. Since the Cainozoic Period, some 5070 million years ago, some 2,000 species of fireflies have existed all over the earth, except the North and South Pole regions. Among these, eight species are reported to be indigenous to Korea. However,

only three or four species have been identified in recent surveys-the Luciola lateralis, Pyrocoelia rufa, Hotaria papariensis and Hotaria unmunsana . . These species are found throughout Korea but their numbers have dramatically declined. With a goal of heightening public awareness about this situation, the government designated the "fireflies and their habitat" of Seolcheon Village, in Muju, Jeollabuk-do province, as Natural Monument No. 322 in 1982 As we have come to recognize the growing significance of preserving our natural environment, the public interest in fireflies as pollution indicators has also

been on the rise. In October 1998, a group of individuals, research institutes, local governments and various private organizations interested in firefly preservation formed the Korean Firefly Society for the purpose of preserving their natural habitats. Since then, these groups have been carrying out various research projects on the geographical distribution of firefly habitats and the ecological characteristics of individual species. Through research conducted by the Department of Sericulture and Entomology at the National Institute of Agricultural Science and Technology and the Korean Firefly Society, some 300 sites

around the country ha ve been confirmed as firefly habitats. Although the number of habitats is on the decline and the firefly density at these sites has been trending downward, it is a welcome relief that the overall nationwide distribution seems little changed. Among the Korean firefl y species, the Hotaria papariensis and the Hotaria unmunsana can be observed the earliest in the year, from late May to midjuly, while the Luciola lateralis makes its appearance from early June to late July, and the Pyrocoelia rufa from late July to late September. So from late spring through fall, the fireworks of fireflies can

Neutbandiburi, the largest breed of firefly inhabiting Korea (left above ) Aebandiburi flashes its tiny light (top). Paparibandibmi glows brightly (abo~e) .

be seen in the night skies of rural areas. The light emitted by fireflies comes from lu ciferin, a luminous pigment which turns into oxyluciferin when it comes into contact with the enzyme luciferase, oxygen and ATP (adenosine triphosphate). It is generally thought that all fireflies give off light when they reach the adult insect stage, but this is not necessarily true. In many species, the illumination otgan has become rudimentary, 85

while other species are luminous not in the adult stage but during the larva stage and some give off only a very dim light even as adults. The functions of a firefly's illumination can vary; it can be for luring and capturing food , defending against enemies and communicating with the opposite sex for mating purposes, which is probably the most critical function. As for how a firefly uses its light to communicate with others, this also differs from one species to another, especially in the mating process. Some observers can distinguish between species simply from the illumination pattern of their lights. Because fireflies use their light to communicate, having artificial lighting around their h a bit a~ such as street lamps and automobile lights, will seriously disrupt their natural ecology. The Luciola lateralis gives birth once a year with adult insects appearing from early June through late July, laying their· eggs on moss or plant roots close to water. The larvae that come from the eggs head straight into the water where they live on mud snails. They turn into pupae the following May or June, then become adults a month later. The eggs of the Luciola lateralis are milky colored, oval shaped, and 0.6 by 05 millimeters in size. About 50-150 eggs are laid in a single batch, which requir·es 2 to 3 days, and they hatch after 20-25 days. After shedding its skin four times, the fully grown larva climbs to the shore the following May or June and builds a cocoon under the protection of rocks or roots. It turns into a pupa, and then eme1ges as an adult insect The adult is about 8-10 millimeters in length, with the female being usually larger than the male. Its outer wings are black, and its thorax and metathorax are orange with three thick black lines running perpendicular through its center. Both females and males can fly, and their· lights. blink anywhere between 60 and 120 times per minute. The life span of an adult fir·efly is about 15 days. The Luciola lateralis usually lives around rice paddies, swamps and irriga86

tion ditches, where the water flows at a relatively slow speed. With ever more liTigation channels being built for farming, fireflies have increasingly come to settle around wet fields. These habitats are usually quite a distance from urban areas and neighborhoods, where the impact of development has yet to arrive. In size, the Pyrocoelia rufa is the largest species found in Korea. Adult insects appear once a year or every two years (Its larva stage can last as long as two years, depending on the availability of food). Adult insects can be seen between late July and late September,

It is generally thought that all fireflies give off light when they reach the adult insect stage, but this is not necessarily true. In many species, the illumination organ has become rudimentary, while other species are luminous not in the adult stage but during the larva stage and some give off only a very dim light even as adults. though this may vary somewhat according to region. Females can grow to up to 20 millimeters in length, and males 15 millimeters. Having outer wings as well as inner wings, the male can fly, whereas the female cannot due to its lack of inner wings and outer wings which have degenerated into non-functional appendages. Adult insects can live about 15 days and unlike the Luciola lateralis, males and females communicate through both light and pheromones. The illumination pattern of the Pyrocoelia rufa is different from other species in that its light does not blinl< but remains illuminated for about an hour and a half after sunset

After mating, the female lays 40-120 eggs under a rock or nearby plant roots. Each egg is about 1.7 millimeters in diameter. After the passing of winter, the eggs hatch the following May or June. The larvae feed on mud snails, growing to 25-35 millimeters in length. The fullgrow n larva turns into a pupa, and becomes an adult insect after 10-12 days. The Pyrocoelia rufa species, which is indigenous to the Korean peninsula, and Japan's Tsushima are regarded as especially valuable to the study of local ecogeographical characteristics. The Py rocoelia rufa usu all y live around valleys, at the foot of mountains and other shady and wet areas such as the shrubbery around rice paddies and fields. Its larva lives on land. These conditions are necessary not only for the survival of fir·eflies themselves but also for snails, a staple of fir·eflies. These locations are not too close to villages, far enough away from the glare of artificial light, while at the same tim e close enough to allow for human interaction. The Hotaria papariensis and th e Hotaria unmunsana both live on land. The adult insects can be seen between late May and mid-Jul y, the earliest among the fir·eflies on the Korean peninsula. The two species share very similar ecological characteristics. Thus far, there is only limited information about the taxonomical distribution or ecological details of the two species. The adult insect looks much lil<e the Luciola lateralis, but without the perpendicular lines on the thorax. A full grown adult measures 8-10 millimeters in ·length, and . unlil<e other species, the males are larger than the females. The females' inner wings are degenerate, making them flightless. Their lights, which blink 60-80 times per minute, are much more intense than that of the Luciola lateralis, perhaps even the most visible among all species. Their preferred habitat is very similar to that of the Pyrocoelia rufa. The two species are indigenous to the Korean peninsula: the Hotaria papaiiensis was first spotted in the village of

Pabal-ri in Pungsan, Hamgyeongnam-do province; the Hotaria unmunsana was discovered at Mt. Unmunsan in Gyeongsangnam-do province. Recently, firefly habitat preservation projects have been carried out in various regions, including Muju, Jeollabuk-do province, and Yangpyeong, Gyeonggido province, as part of a nationwide environmental promotion campaign, with private organizations participating in the cause as well. In Muju, firefly habitats have been designated natural monuments while a firefly festival is held annually to promote public support for their preservation and highlight the importance of environmental protection. Anywhere you go in Muju, it is easy to spot a wellpreserved firefly habitat. During the festival, firefly observation programs are offered, which allow the public to see fireflies in their natural surrounding, putting on a delightful light show. Yangpyeong is located where the Namhan and Bukhan rivers join together. Since this area is strictly protected as a major potable water source, it is one of the most environmentally regulated areas in the vicinity of metropolitan Seoul. In Yangpyeong, the use of pesticides and chemical fertilizers is strongly discouraged under a "Love Clear Water" campaign and environment-friendly farming methods are promoted, with the presence and number of fireflies and grasshoppers serving as indicators of a clean environment. Thanks to these efforts, firefly habitats have been expanding along with growing numbers of fireflies now being seen in these areas. Currently, 12 villages are responsible for tending to a designated firefly habitat. As a result, fireflies can be readily seen throughout the Yangpyeong area. In particular, it should be noted that the success of this campaign has been due to the dedicated efforts of volunteers. The yew forest of Jejudo Island, which has been designated a natural monument, is an ideal habitat for fire-

flies, with its well-preserved environment comprising some 3,000 yew trees. Two firefly species can be found in the forest; the Hotaria papariensis in June and the Pyrocoelia rufa in September. The group dance of the fireflies among the yew trees is as enchanting as a brightly lit Christmas tree. Here, the local government of Bukjeju and the Gurae Environmental Research Society have spearheaded the preservation efforts. Although the firefly habitat in Suwon, Gyeonggi-do province, is not densely populated, it is significant for its close proximity to an urban area. The firefly habitats in Ulju and Miryang, located in the Mt. Gayasan area, are also especially well preserved. There are several other regions, including Yeongyang, Gyeongsangbuk-do province, where firefly habitat preservation projects are being conducted in conjunction wi.th the development of ecology education facilities or nature theme parks. There are additional habitats worth preserving around the country as well, such that if the current trend continues, firefly habitats will steadily increase over time. Perhaps this has been much ado about a mere insect, hardly anything earthshaking, just a firefly. When we think of fireflies, a clean, natural and tranquil rural scene comes to mind?a timeless vision of home that we keep in our hearts. But, in fact, both the firefly and humankind need a clean, healthy environment in order to survive and flourish. Far too often, we humans show such little regard for the environmental devastation we are causing; however, there will be no way for us to survive unless we mend our self-destructive ways. Accordingly, we must do our utmost to ensure an ideal environment for the firefly to thrive, which will be in our interests as well. + Outdoor performance of a madang drama at the Muju Firefly Festival (top) Visitors look over fireflies at the Firefly Museum (middle). A night scene of the Muju Firefly Festival (left) 87

MASTERPIECES

BLUE AND WHITE FACETED PORCELAIN

WITH BAMBOO DESIGN ]eon Seung-Chang Curator, Ho-Am A.tt Museum

f the rich variety of fine art of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), porcelain is said to best represent the culture of that time. Although the history of pottety, which began with humans baking clay to make sturdy eatthenware vessels, stretches back thousands of years, it is no more than a dozen centuries that glazed ceramics fired at high temperatures came into general use. Koreans used porcelain, including celadon-glazed wares, from the early days of the Gory eo Dynasty (918 -1392) and thus came to enjoy a tradition of fine ceramics some 700 - 800 years before Japan and Europe, at least in terms of the regular production of porcelain. Goryeo celadon is renowned worldwide for its diverse array of decorations Lmder a clear jade-colored glaze, while the Joseon Dynasty's pure white porcelain enhanced by underglaze cobalt designs is also revered for its characteristics that are clearly distinct from Chinese and Japanese porcelain. Although the white porcelain tradition began more than a thousand years ago in Korea, it was only about 600 years ago dming the Joseon period that it came into full bloom. A porcelain culture of unique tradition was able to flourish during Joseon due in large part to its political, social and economic situation; however, one of the most significant aspects of

0 I

understanding the nature of Joseon porcelain is that most of the white porcelain was produced for royal use at designated kilns under a highly systematized production process. As a result, most of the porcelain wares produced during this period were of exceptionally high quality. The royal wares were produced in the area that is now Gwangju, Gyeonggi-do province. Kilns specializing in the manufacture of porcelain to be used by the royal household and court were established in the area from the early Joseon period, with some 380 artisans working from spting to auturrm under the supervision of government officials. This system continued throughout the dynasty. Nearby trees were used to fuel the kilns. When the surrounding woods were depleted, which usually took about ten yea~Âˇs , the kiln was moved to a new location with an ample supply of wood, which also enabled the forests at former sites to be restored. Because kilns were relocated regularly throughout the Joseon era, there are numerous sites of royal kilns in the Gwangju area, with more than 500 sites identified through archaeological excavations. It is unusual indeed to have so many royal kilns clustered in one area over 500 years. Naturally, the date that each kiln was operational varied while their products differed in style, color and decoration. The Blue and White Faceted Porcelain

Bottle with Bamboo Design introduced here was created at a royal kiln in Geumsa-ri, Gwangju, as confirmed by porcelain shards found there that are identical in style, decoration and glaze. There were royal kilns in the Geumsa-li area that were in operation from 1726 to 1751; the sites of a dozen kilns are still evident today. The royal wares produced here during the "Geumsa-ri petiod," which are known as Geumsa-ri porcelain, represent the finest porcelain of the late Joseon period (1600 -1910). With the Blue and White Faceted Porcelain Bottle with Bamboo Design being one of the most exceptional examples of Geumsa-ri porcelain, it has been designated a national treasure. It is a true masterpiece that embodies an elegance and quality which distinguish the royal wares of this period from those of other periods. In all likelihood used as a wine bottle, it has eight faces cleanly cut with bold sweeps from the bottom up to the neck The style of cutting six or eight facets into the surface, which originated in Geumsa-r~ significantly influenced porcelain decoration, remaining a popular style in later periods. A bold cobalt line symbolizing the ground runs horizontally around the bottle near the bottom, from which bamboo stalks spring f01th in masterly brushwork that is more likely to be seen in an ink painting than a surface decoration. The

This minimal, symbolic decoration of an ink-painting style is a unique feature that differentiates late Joseon porcelain from the 18th century Chinese porcelain characterized by lavish, colorful decoration.

painting was actually done by a professional coutt a1tist retained to render paintings for the royal household. Decorations for royal ceramics were all created by such painters and were naturally influenced by contemporary painting styles. The use of symbolic motifs such as bamboo and simple rende1ing that left a good amount of open space is a decoration style that first appeared in Geumsa-ri. This minimal, symbolic decoration of an ink-painting style is a unique feature that differentiates late Joseon porcelain from the 18th centuty Chinese porcelain characteiized by lavish, colorful decoration. Another feature that enhances the Blue and White Faceted Porcelain Bottle with Bamboo Design is the understated - elegance of its white glaze. The whiteness of Joseon white porcelain is the combined result of the clay and the glaze that varies "\ subtly by kiln and the year of its production The Geumsa-ri porcelain is marked by a pure whiteness that, like feathery snow, exudes a comforting feeling of abundance. It is this whiteness that creates a vivid contrast with the underglaze blue decoration while also highlighting the sense of form in plain white wares, as exemplified by the unique "moon jars" for which Geumsa-ri is famed. The "moon jars" are so named because of their ultrawhiteness and voluptuous roundness reminiscent of a full moon. The subtle whiteness of the Blue and White Faceted Porcelain Bottle with Bamboo Design is also representative of Geumsa-li porcelain. In keeping with its handsome body,

the foot of the bottle is tall and attractively cut in an octagon, although the inside is a neat circle. The Chinese character cheon, meaning "stream," is engraved on one side of the foot while the character Jeong, meaning "well," is found on the bottom, but it is not known what the characters signify. The Blue and White Faceted Porcelain Bottle with Bamboo Design is just one of the countless porcelain wares created in the 18th century, but it is a masterpiece that tells much about the history and characteristics of the royal wares of the Joseon period. It is a truly exceptional work of art that reflects the aesthetics of restrained beauty which differentiate Joseon porcelain from the porcelain of Japan and China that tend to be more ornate. +

Blue and White Faceted Porcelain Bottle with Bamboo Design,Joseon Dynasty, 18th Century, Height: 40.6 centimeters, Diameter of mouth: 7.6 centimeters, Diameter of base: 11.5 centimeters, National Treasure No. 258, Ho-Am Art Museum 89

!Art Revi~

Special Exhibitio11 of Joseon Dynast)r

Genre Paintings So}ae-gu Curator, National Museum of Korea

rom March 12 to July 14, 2002, the National Museum of Korea is presenting 'Joseon Dynasty Genre Paintings," a special exhibition to commemorate the 2002 Korea-Japan World Cup. Joseon Dynasty (1392 -1910) genre paintings are the works in the collection of the National Museum that best reveal the unique characteristics of Korea's traditional culture and arts. They are thus valuable historical artifacts that depict the daily life and culture of the past just before modern times as well as being

the paintings most loved by Koreans. The first special exhibition of its kind to be held in Korea, Joseon Dynasty Genre Paintings features many works well known to Koreans and others that are being shown to the public for the first time. Thus visitors will be able to get a good feel for the genre paintings of the Joseon Dynasty. The paintings highlight Sword Dance, from an album of genre paintings by Sin Yun-bok (left) A detailed painting by an anonymous artist showing the layout of aJoseon town (below)

the Korean people's views of life, their optimistic, warm and forward-looking nature as well as the morals and etiquette which have guided their lives over the years. The exhibition features 200 major genre paintings including Sagyesansu (Landscapes of the Four Seasons) by fatherÂˇ and son Kim Du-ryang and Kim Deok-ha, Ssireum by Kim Hong-do (Treasure No. 527), Nusangwigido by Sim Jeong-ju, and Hyewonjeonsincheop by Sin Yun-bok (Treasure No. 135). Taepyeongseongsido, being shown to the public for the first time, portrays life inside the royal court during the late Joseon Dynasty, while Gamnotaenghwa, from Boseoksa Temple in Chungcheongnam-do province, is an important record that reflects how ancient Koreans' Buddhist view of life has been incorporated into Korean customs. The exhibition also includes paintings that had not been previously shown, such as the works painted to record the social and literary meetings of the ]oseon literati and the meetings of government officials. These provide a glimpse into the lifestyle, ideals and beliefs of the members of the royal court and ruling elite as well as the common people. The primary subject of genre paintings is the daily life of people at all levels of society, which reveal their ways of the world, customs and refinements. Genre paintings reached their high point in the late 18th century, a time when there was an awakening among the people regarding the inner workings of society while the culture of the common people became more important. The paintings are exhibited in four categories: politics and ideals; taste and refinement; work and leisure; and faith and supplication. Multimedia displays, including a flat-screen video presentation and 3D computer program help to explain the paintings. The following is an overview of this exhibition.

Politics and Ideals The subject matter of many Joseon

Dynasty genre paintings is directly or indirectly related to Confucian political ideology or ethical norms. It is noted in the ]oseon wangjosillok (Annals of the ]oseon Dynasty) that meritorious deeds or the lifetime achievements of wise kings and sages were painted on folding screens to serve as objects of contemplation. Included in this category are the portraits of various royalty and people who were considered to be exemplary role models of Confucian virtues;illustrations in Samganghaengsildo

(The Three Principles of Basic Human Relationships), a book of renderings of

Joseon Dynasty genre paintings are the works in the collection of the National Museum that best reveal the unique characteristics of Korea's traditional culture and arts. They are thus valuable historical artifacts that depict the daily life and cuiture of the past just before modern times as well as

refinements of the city and the traditions of the countryside. Paintings of such didactical content or historical fact were produced so that the king, as ruler of the country and the people, could always reflect upon these paintings to help him be moral and prudent in his governance, thus promoting political stability.

Taste and Refinement The painters of the Sadaebu, men of noble birth, played a leading role in the development of late Joseon Dynasty genre painting. They closely observed the daily life of the commoners and recorded it in paintings while at the same time capturing the life of the literati by highlighting the world of elegance and refinement enjoyed by those of noble birth. These paintings have a unique style, clearly different from the simplicity and warmth of paintings depicting the life of commoners. Paintings of the everyday life of the literati class are called "sain genre paintings," sain being a term used for scholars who were not government officials but nonetheless focused on lofty thoughts and aspirations. These paintings include travel accounts, and records of social activities and literati gatherings. The wanderings and travels of the scholars were expressed in diverse ways in literature and art in the late Joseon Dynasty, with the sain genre paintings generally dealing with the leisure-time pursuits of scholars and their camaraderie. This trend spread to middle-class people as well.

being the paintings most Work and Leisure

loved by Koreans.

loyal subjects and filial sons intended to promote loyalty and filial piety; and paintings of life on the farm, such as

Binpungchilwoldo. In addition, there are paintings of a Confucian nature such as pictorial records of palace and government events along with works that depict the

For people who had to work for a living, time away from work was necessary to relax and recharge in preparation to start work anew. Putting work aside to eat, sing, dance or enjoy other forms of entertainment were needed for people's revitalization. For the people of the Joseon Dynasty, work changed from season to season, but in between they enjoyed brief interludes of leisure. Everyday life meant hard work, more 91

often than not physically demanding and tedious. However, the expressions on the faces of the people in traditional genre paintings do not reflect pain or hardship; rather, they seem content and absorbed in their work On the holidays that marked the seasonal changes, they played games and engaged in merriment that helped to enrich their mundane lives. Such humble scenes of the everyday life of the common people are recorded in genre paintings.

Faith and Supplication Religious paintings are a special kind of genre painting in that they express a faith in god or a life of worship. The paintings that best illustrate the religious life of the Joseon Dynasty people are the Buddhist paintings gamnotaenghwa, which portray J?uddhist teachings, and the depictions in the Book of Tang Saju which was widely used for fortune-telling. Gamnotaenghwa highlight the various circumstances that a person can experience through the cycle of life and death known as samsara. Though the people featured in such paintings are created from a Buddhist perspective, the style and character of life in the Joseon Dynasty are so exquisitely depicted that that these paintings can be regarded as examples of highbrow genre painting. The Tang Book of Divi'nation is a fortune-telling guide based on a principle that one's fate is determined by the saju, or "four pillars"the year, month, day and hour of one's birth. The depictions in the book reflect real life in the Joseon Dynasty and atti. tudes toward work and fortune, misfortune and ambition, and therefore have many elements in common with genre paintings. +

From the top: Musical Events in the]eon Family by Sim Sa-jeong, representative of the late Joseon artists of the Southern Literati painting; Lovers under the Moon by Sin Yunbok; Lunch by Kim Hong-do 92

JOURNEYS IN KOREAN LITERATURE

Shin Kyoung-suuk 93

Shin Kyoung-suuk: Daughter of the Earth SuhJi-moon Professor of English, Korea University

bin Kyoung-suuk (b. 1963) is a true daughter of the earth. Memories of idyllic scenes from her childhood in the country suffuse all her works. And her closeness to the soil, her sensitivity to animals and plants, are inextricably linked to her ultrafeminine sensibility. Such characteristics would have been liabilities rather than assets for a Korean writer up until the late 1980s. During the years of military dictatorship, so feminine and private an author like Shin Kyoung-suuk would have been denounced as decadent and lacking in social consciousness. Luckily for Shin, her literary debut coincided with the end of the nearly threedecades-long military dictatorship. During the long years of military dictatorship, from 1961 to 1987, most self-respecting writers wrote resistance literature, registering their protest against political repression and social injustice. Writers regarded it as their historic mission, and received honors and applause from a grateful nation. Inevitably, the tone of literature was harsh and strident, with emotional and psychological subtleties tending to be overlooked. Liberation from military dictatorship meant that literature was no longer required to assume a political and social mission. And readers felt free to read purely for enjoyment. Thus, the face of Korean literature changed dramatically, from "one of stern moral judgment to displaysÂˇ of playfulness, romanticism, and psychological nuance. Women writers took the lead in ushering in this new wave. Shin Kyoung-suuk, appearing on

the literary scene at just that moment, bewitched a nation craving romance and tales of the heart.

An Ultrafeminine Writer Shin Kyoung-suuk imbued her sentimental and romantic fiction with elegance and status through her unique and superb touch. Within a few years of her debu~ she gained not only phenomenal popularity cutting across all strata of readership but also earned high critical acclaim. The most prominent feature of Shin Kyoung-suuk's writing is her femininity. Shin exudes femininity in every word, phrase and sentence. Feminine, of course, is a label that one should be extremely careful about applying, but it just naturally comes to mind when reading Shin's stories. A typical Shin Kyoung-suuk character is a woman who is aching from the memory of a loss, longing for someone out of her reach, or about to make a renunciation. Moreover, the impending or remembered loss has more power over her than the business of life at hand. At times, social and political realities will impinge on the lives of Shin's characters, but mainly as background for the protagonist's anguish. As such, the pervasive atmosphere is resignation, together with a will to aestheticize suffering. She presents women who accept their lot without protest while giving themselves up to suffering. Her magic is such that not only women readers but male readers as well can identify with her women characters, and find something peculiarly soothing in such com-

plete acquiescence to one's fate. Moreover, her lyrical prose is refreshingly enchanting after much harsh rhythm and raw cadence of protest literature. A lovesick woman in a woman writer's story is certainly a rather threadbare character. But Shin can make a woman's longing for a lover out of her reach or forbidden to her so heattachingly exquisite and deliciously painful that" the character earns a lofty status in the reader's imagination. As such, the nation went on a binge of romantic sorrow with this young author from the countryside.

Shin's Short Stories In her first collection, A Winter Fable (1991), the author is very much bound to her childhood and hometown. In more than half of the stories in the collection, the central characters are suffering from family tragedy. The tragedy that traumatizesÂˇ and disrupts the families is most often the death of a son who was full of promise. This occurs in no less than three stories. Or it may be the disappearance of a son, or the elopement of a daughter. Or it may take the form of an .automobile accident that cripples the father and turns him from an affectionate head of the family into an insanely jealous husband. The focus of these stories is about the impact that these deaths and unfortunate incidents have on the remaining family members, such as the guilt and pain suffered by a young daughter (a girl on the verge of womanhood) on account of her devastated parents. The evocative country scenery into which these heartbreaking pains are

interwoven, and the daily household chores of a farmhouse, so lovingly carried out and recounted, give the suffering a dreamlike quality imbued with lyricism. Her second collection of stories,

Where the Ha1monium Used to Stand (1993), reveals the author's remarkable maturity in just three years. Her range and subject matter have been noticeably broadened, while her verbal artistry and eye for poignant detail have been further refined. And the scenes from her childhood in the country continue to complement the lyricism and charm as well as rich pathos of her writing. Her characters are much more diverse, and, though still not masters or mistresses of their own destiny, at least have more force of character. And, though not yet a political or sociological writer, Shin , exhibits a markedly heightened political and social awareness. "The Image of Mija" is rather unusual for a Shin Kyoung-suuk story, as it features a rustic pair of lovers whose story is told by a male narrator. This short story, which reads much like a folk tale, vividly captures the primal loneliness and hunger for basic needs that can bind one human being to another, more _ strongly than any intellectual or moral bond. Her two subsequent short story col"" lections, Leaving Home Long Ago (1996) and Strawbeny Fa1m (2000) show that success has not made her writing more cheerful and optimistic but rather the opposite. In some stories it seems as if her heroines are born to suffer while the cause of their sorrow and anguish are more their own doing than the cruelty of uncontrollable circumstances. But her enchanting touch is there, with stories like "The Potato Eaters" demonstrating her masterful talent of letting silence speak volumes.

Shin's Novels Her first full-length novel, Deep Sonow (1994), is a two -volume meditation on the perversity of the human

heart The utter passivity of the protagonist is exasperating, and the lack of authorial moral judgment of the two male characters that destroy her with their love and betrayal is disturbing, despite their being familiar elements of Shin's works. One naturally expects some moral judgment in a novel, even from a writer who tends to look upon human beings as puppets at the mercy of arbitrary circumstances and subconscious impulses. However, the novel is worth reading for the many embedded stories, and its beautiful, lyrical prose, which no doubt contributed to its phenomenal commercial success. After this novel, it was not clear where she would go next, and there was some misgiving that Shin would just go on writing in the same dolorous vein. However, soon after her first novel came out, Shin surprised everyone with the first installment of her autobiographical novel, A Desolate Room (1995), which revealed her experience as a factory worker. Shin Kyoung-suuk is not a person you would associate with factory work It is hard to imagine someone so close to the earth and with such delicate sensibilities as Shin chained to a machine. But it turns out that she was a factory worker for three years, and her autobiographical novel impresses readers with its candor. At age 15, Shin was transformed from a farm girl living in relative comfort in the bosom of bountiful Nature into a factory worker living three to a room and drilling screws all day long in a factory. In addition to factory work, she attended night school as well as cooking and housekeeping for her brother, her cousin and herself. It was not owing to any serious reversal in the family's fortune but simply the fact that with six children her parents could not afford to provide all of them with education beyond middle school. The pain of that life comes through vividly, but Shin as an author exhibits restraint and control. The novel is thus not a gloomy tale of woe but one of

courage and endurance. It also gives a detailed, firsthand account of the condition of factories in the late 1970s and early 1980s: the labor union struggles, the working conditions, the sexual harassment. Interwoven into this story is her current experiences, her trip to an island where she tried to sort out her feelings, her ceaseless quest for clues about her self-identity, the reactions of people to her profession and her works, and of course the memories of her childhood with her parents and siblings. As is the case in all her works, the interwoven materials greatly enrich the work, by alleviating the harshness and gloom of the main story. Death and a sense of irretrievable loss hang over her next novel The Train Leaves at Seven (1999), making it a .story of almost sinister darkness. A loss of cherished objects (through physical separation and emotional alienation) and a failure to establish bonds and connections with others also dominate Violet (2001). The latter, however, is less oppressive because of its flower shop setting filled with lovely and individual flowers, the lovingly and minutely described city scene, and the two attractive heroines. Many of Shin's stories and novels exude a sense of artlessness and spontaneity, reading like diaries or personal narratives. However, they are strewn with high-powered symbols, which, when analyzed, reveal coherent structures. Shin Kyoung-suuk's stories and novels have such unique app<:al that, even though the passivity of her protagonists is disconce1ting, one hardly knows whether to hope she would be more assertive, or remain submissive. A gift like hers is indeed rare and precious enough that as a reader one could be content reading characteristic Shin Kyoung-suuk stories at regular intervals. As a literary critic, however, one must wish that her heroines would somehow become better mistresses of their fate and embrace a more positive outlook on

life. + 95

NEW FELWWSHIP

PROGRAMS

The Korea Foundation launched its Advanced Research Grant and Postdoctoral Fellowship programs in Korean studies starting in early

2002.

ADVANCED RESEARCH GRANT The Advanced Research Grant program is designed to provide support for the scholarly research and writing activities ·of Korean studies scholars related to the humanities and social sciences fields, which will advance scholarship in Korean studies. Eligible projects involve research effotts that result in scholarly publications, which are to be disseminated in languages other than Korean. • ELIGIBILITY: Overseas Korean studies scholars with a Ph.D. degree in a subject related to Korea and who are currently engaged in Korea-related teaching and research activities

• ELIGIBILITY: Non-Korean scholars who have received their Ph.D. degree in a subject related to Korea within five years of their application but do not currently hold a regular faculty position • FELLOWSHIP GRANT: Stipend suppott for a 12-month period • FELLOWSHIP PERIOD: A 12-month period in accordance with the academic year of the affiliated institution • OBLIGATIONS OF FELLOWS: - Fellows shall be in residence at the affiliated institution during the academic year, and are requested to participate in the affiliated institution's activities. - Fellows shall revise their doctoral dissertation in the field of Korean studies to produce a publishable manuscript. •INSTITUTIONAL AFFILIATION: A formal affiliation is required with a university or research institution, other than that from which the applicant has received his/ her Ph.D, that includes faculty and reference resources related' to the applicant's research field APPLICATION DEADLINE: February 28, 2003 For further information, please contact: Fellowship Program Team

The Korea Foundation Seocho P.O. Box 227 1376-1 Seocho 2-dong, Seocho-gu Seoul137-072, Korea Tel: +82-2-3463-5614 Fax: +82-2-3463-6075 E-mail: fellow@kf.or.kr http://www.kf.or.kr

The Korea Foundation's other fellowship programs include:

• GRANT PERIOD:Six to twelve consecutive months

Fellowship for Korean Language Training: Designed to enhance practical use of the Korean language among overseas Korean studies scholars, graduate students, and professionals in Korea-related fields, by providing an opportunity to undertake intensive Korean-language training at a leading Korean university. -

• REQUIREMENTS: Grantees are expected to devote full-time effort to the research and writing during the grant period. The Foundation fully expects that the proposed research will result in the publication of its results.

Fellowship for Field Research (formerly Fellowship for Korean Studies): Intended to promote Korean studies and facilitate research work by Korea-related scholars and specialists by supporting their onsite study and research activities in Korea.

• GRANT TERMS: Personal remuneration and project-related research expenses

POSTDOCTORAL FELLOWSIDP The Postdoctoral Fellowship program provides promising and highly qualified recent Ph.D. recipients with the opportunity to conduct research at leading universities in the field of Korean studies so that they can further develop their scholarship as well as have their dissertations published as manuscripts.

Fellowship for Graduate Studies (formerly Graduate Scholarship): Aimed at fostering an expanded pool of young scholars majoring in Korean studies by providing scholarship assistance for graduate students in Korea-related fields at various universities in North America, Europe and Asia. Publication Subsidy Program: Provides financial support for the publication of Korea-related books by major university presses and leading academic publishers worldwide.

"One World in Your Hand"

300-9, Yomgok-dong, Seocho-gu, Seoul, Korea TEL: 82-2-3460-7114 FAX: 82-2-3460-7777

·· •

Lookin for Business News o Korea? The Leading Monthly Business News Magazine in the World as well as Korea

On Augus, 1 2000, NewsWorld started a joint information service with lntemet Securities, Inc (lSI) of China to provide business news from emerging markets around the world. lSI, an international information service provider of China, was established in 1994 and its headquarters is located in New York, N.Y., U.S.A. lSI has offices in 18 countries worldwide, featuring current news, company financial statements, company profiles, corporate performance reports, industry reports, analyst & brokerage reports, macroeconomic statistics, and legal & political information. In Asia lSI news coverages include China, India, Indonesia, Hong Kong, Malaysia, Singapore, South Korea, Thailand and the Philippines . To find out more details, please log on to www.securities.com.

www.newsworld.co.kr

- r--.-eG-------:an.f"

EWS 8

NWORLD

Inquiries on subscription:

Tel: 82-2-2235-6114 Fax: 82-2-2235-8864 E-mail: news@newsworld.co.kr

o -

aOt:o