The Hoya: The Guide: March 18, 2016

the guide FRIDAY, MARCH 18, 2016

ILLUSTRATION BY JESUS RODRIGUEZ/THE HOYA

B2

the guide

THE HOYA

FRIDAY, MARCH 18, 2016

How To take the best #foodporn Shot

JUSTIN SCHUBLE Contributor D.C. Food Porn

1. HAVE ENOUGH NATURAL LIGHT Lighting is probably the most important thing to consider when trying to get the perfect #foodporn shot. Natural light is key. Direct sunlight is usually too harsh, so ask for a table near the window or wait for a cloudy day to get the ideal lighting for your picture.

2. MAKE IT DRIP People respond best to images that seem like they are moving. Try to capture some sort of movement in your shot, like a runny yolk, gooey cheese stretch or dripping chocolate.

3. GET UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL While it is important to play around with different camera angles, you can never go wrong with a close-up shot of the food. The goal of #foodporn is to highlight the natural beauty of what is on your plate, so do not be afraid to get your camera really close. Also, do not get too fancy with filters when editing the picture. It is okay to tweak the color balance and exposure, but do not do anything too drastic. When in doubt, #nofilter.

PHOTOS COURTESY JUSTIN SCHUBLE, ILLUSTRATION BY ISABEL BINAMIRA/THE HOYA

the guide EDITOR-IN-CHIEF JESS KELHAM-HOHLER

GUIDE EDITOR TOBY HUNG

EXECUTIVE EDITOR SUZANNE MONYAK

PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR NAAZ MODAN

MANAGING EDITOR JINWOO CHONG

ONLINE EDITOR SHANNON HOU

LAYOUT EDITOR MATTHEW TRUNKO

COPY CHIEF JEANINE SANTUCCI

Dear readers, After a two-year hiatus, the Food Issue returns with new features about the Georgetown and D.C. food scene.

From Peter Tran, the beloved sushi chef at Epicurean, to the history of dining halls on the Hilltop to Bad Saint, the Filipino restaurant revolutionizing the local food scene, this edition tells the stories of the chefs, restaurants and dishes that shape our community. We also present our top five picks for the best vegetarian dishes in the neighborhood, the best coffee shops in the District and more. Read these stories and check out our new restaurant directory on www. thehoya.com/food-issue-2016.

friday, MARCH 18, 2016

the guide

THE HOYA

B3

Peter Dreams of Sushi

JINWOO CHONG/THE HOYA

Peter Tran, who learned his craft in Hawaii, has been creating unique works of culinary art behind the sushi bar at Epicurean and Company for the past eight years. Skilled as he is passionate and humorous, Tran is well-loved by patrons and does not plan on going anywhere in the near future.

Nick Biggs-Chiropolos Hoya Staff Writer

For regular patrons of the sushi bar at Epicurean and Company, the dining experience is inseparable from its head chef, Peter Tran. Famous among customers for his creative sushi designs and limitless sense of humor, Tran is easily one of the most recognizable faces at the eatery.

Tran joined Epi in August 2008 after he moved from Hawaii to D.C. with his family, which is part Vietnamese and part American. Born and raised in Vietnam, Tran moved to Hawaii at age 23 when he first learned to make sushi at a hibachi restaurant.

“I worked in a hibachi restaurant, so my friend was a head sushi chef there,” Tran said. “He taught me how take care of the fish – how to keep it fresh, how to clean the fish, how to not mess up the fish.”

Tran decided to move to D.C. because of the better educational opportunities the city’s schools offered for his daughter, who is now 21. He first discovered a job vacancy at Epi in a newspaper advertisement. He initially started out as manager, and after

taking on an array of different tasks, Tran ultimately settled as a sushi chef.

The skills Peter learned about handling raw fish in Hawaii have remained key to his sushi-making at Epi, as he attributes the quality of the sushi to the freshness of its ingredients.

“You take care of your fish like you take care of your girlfriend.”

Peter tran Sushi Chef, Epicurean and Company

“You take care of your fish like you take care of your girlfriend,” Tran said. “When I clean the fish, we try not to move it too much, we don’t try to touch too much.

We try to not bend the fish, because if you

bend it the meat will be broken, and the juice from the meat will come out and the taste will be gone. They spoil very fast and then they smell fishy. That means it’s not fresh.”

According to Tran, the most popular type of sushi with Georgetown students is salmon, which is also his favorite fish.

While he enjoys making sushi with raw fish, he has also expanded his repertoire to include special items — what he calls “American sushi” — such as a sushi roll that uses cream cheese.

Ensuring fresh fish requires an extensive procedure. The kitchen buys its ingredients from the same wholesale market in D.C. each day, sometimes even returning subpar products. Peter oversees this process, arriving at Epi at 11 a.m. and staying until the sushi bar closes at 10 p.m. His daily routine consists of examining fish for freshness, preparing it for sushi and conversing with customers, which he said is one of his favorite parts of the job.

“I love the young people here,” Tran said. “I think young people here feel like my kids. So I love to talk with them. So I think they are smart — they are more

smart than me. But I am older than them.

So I talk about school and the street, and I love talking to them.”

Comparing Georgetown to Hawaii, Tran said he finds the campus environment less warm than his home state, though he tries to be friendly to everyone.

“Students here are from all over the world,” Peter said. “Hawaii is more friendly, more cool, more laid-back than here.

Here I feel like they’re more to themselves.

But for me, I’m nice to everyone, so I think everyone is nice to me.”

Tran especially enjoys getting to know regular customers, of whom he has too many to keep track. Paola Capo (SFS ’17), one such patron, said she became a regular at the sushi bar during her sophomore year, when she began frequenting it after exams and started talking to Tran, who soon nicknamed her Sweet Home after hearing she was from Alabama.

“Really, what he does is art, and it’s fun for him. He really enjoys doing creative things.”

Paola capo SFS ’17

JINWOO CHONG/THE HOYA

Sushi chef Peter Tran is beloved by patrons for his ever-present wit, sense of humor and willingness to strike up a conversation.

Most of all, however, diners enjoy the colorful and creative array of sushi Tran makes piece by piece.

Like other regulars at the sushi bar, Capo often receives special sushi rolls from Tran, such as swan-shaped sushi rolls and other designs.

“Since I go so much and we always talk a lot, he just started giving me these extra tokens of friendship,” Capo said. “Really, what he does is art, and it’s fun for him.

He really enjoys doing creative things.”

Tran attributes his creative sushi designs to a childhood pastime.

“When I was a boy, I lived on my own. I didn’t have toys, so I made my own toys,” Tran said. “So now when I do the sushi, I look and I think ‘Oh today’s a slow day, so I’ll make a swan.’”

According to Tran, his sushi designs change depending on his mood, customer preferences and the time of year. Prior to this interview, he made a specialty “kangaroo roll” for a customer at the sushi bar who was Australian. Tran’s designs are also inspired by holidays, from flower designs during Valentine’s Day to cats at Halloween to turkeys at Thanksgiving.

Looking ahead, Tran anticipates that he will continue working at Epi, where he has fostered friendships with many of his patrons.

“I’ve worked here almost eight years,” Tran said. “So far, I love the students here, and I love the people here, and I love my job too. So I’ll stick around.”

B4

THE HOYA

the guide

Friday, March 18, 2016

ISABEL BINAMIRA/THE HOYA

Columbia Heights eatery Bad Saint has taken the D.C. food scene by storm, offering patrons authentic Filipino dishes such as the piniritong pulang agwas — deep-fried rouget. The quality speaks for itself, as diners are willing to wait hours for one of the 24 highly coveted seats at the city’s newest and most exciting restaurant.

The Filipino Eatery Transforming DC

Toby Hung

Hoya Staff Writer

Every year, a handful of dishes and ingredients come to represent shifting trends in American food culture. Past years have seen the advent of quinoa, the persistence of kale, and — good riddance — the fall of the cronut. Will 2016 witness the addition of ampalaya, bitter melon, and dinuguan, pork blood stew, to the list? With the help of Filipino restaurant Bad Saint, the latest “it” restaurant in Washington, D.C., it doesn’t seem all too unlikely. After all, the ginisang ampalaya and dinuguan with puto, rice cakes, are two of the most popular dishes at the restaurant, where half of the patrons have never had a bite of Filipino food prior to their visit.

In the past several years, Filipino cuisine has skyrocketed as one of the most dynamic dining trends in the country. D.C., which is home to a sizeable population of ethnic minorities and a correspondingly diverse food scene, welcomed the Pinoy takeover with open arms. Bad Saint took the District by storm in September last year, receiving overwhelmingly rave reviews and earning the number seven spot on Washingtonian Magazine’s ranking of D.C.’s top tables in 2015. On any given day of the week, dozens of dedicated diners can be seen lined up outside the quaint, 24-seat eatery in Columbia Heights. Even the lengthy wait times, which average from three to five hours, fail to deter patrons from craving the restaurant’s authentic Filipino dishes, which include pancit bihon guisado, rice noodles, ukoy, shrimp fritters, and ginisang tulya, clam stew.

household. Opposite the door is a colorful hand-woven banig, mat, from Samar, which was brought from the Philippines to the United States in the suitcase of Villamora’s cousin. The walls are adorned with prints by the celebrated chef and artist Claude Tayag, who is a friend of Pimentel’s mother. An altar hangs highly on the wall, in memory of the restaurant staff’s family members, friends and pets. As with any Filipino home, the kitchen, led by the Philippines-born, Maryland-bred chef Tom Cunanan, takes center stage. Cunanan had served as executive sous-chef at the New American bistro Ardeo+Bardeo before joining Bad Saint. According to Cunanan, he was first convinced to delve into Filipino cooking by his mother, whom he cites as his primary influence.

The restaurant’s authenticity shines most impressively through its menu, which changes seasonally to match the freshest ingredients available to the kitchen. The current repertoire includes 13 dishes and showcases a variety of flavors. The kinilaw na pugita, which combines octopus with fingerling potatoes and queen olives, is a brilliantly bold take on the classic raw seafood dish, with an obvious influence from the Spanish ceviche. Drenched in a seafood broth, the dish contrasts the tender octopus meat and soft potatoes with crunchy onion slices. The result is what Villamora

calls a layered dish of which “you can take five bites, and every time you’ll taste something different.” Other popular dishes include the piniritong pulang agwas, rouget, which is served bone-in and deep-fried with maggi vinaigrette and spicy greens, and the kalderetang kordero, lamb neck, a melt-in-your-mouth stew that comes with sunchokes and baby carrots.

Beyond authenticity, the food at Bad Saint is deeply rooted in diversity. Not only does the menu consist of an equal number of vegetable and meat dishes — Pimentel was vegetarian for seven years — the team also researched food trends and traditions across the Philippines in order to represent the gastronomic cultures of as many regions as possible. Villamora claims that this is an attempt to counter deep-seated regionalism in the Philippines, which her parents observed even in Filipino organizations in the United States. As a result, the restaurant is a melange of dozens of influences, touching also on the country’s colonial history and trade relations.

In addition to serving high-quality Filipino cuisine, the Bad Saint team is also committed to embodying an ethos of Filipino hospitality and homeliness. “We really just wanted people to feel like they were at our house for dinner,” Pimentel said. The front of house staff, of which only three are Filipino, are able to pronounce all the names of the dishes in perfect Tagalog — “better than me,” Pimentel added.

The layout of the restaurant also contributes to this intimacy, as diners are squeezed together due to the limited space. Villamora recounts: “Total strangers are sitting beside each other, but by the end of the meal, they’re sipping each other’s cocktails. I’ve seen it happen so many times!”

“We really just wanted people to feel like they were at our house for dinner.”

Nick Pimentel Co-Owner and Co-Founder, Bad Saint

Six months after it first opened its doors, Bad Saint is still buzzing as one of the District’s hottest joints, and the lines outside the restaurant are only getting longer. Whether Filipino food continues to be a national trend, the team has no intentions of changing its current trajectory of excelling at what it does. As Villamora said, “We don’t just want to be a trend, we want to be a good restaurant.”

“You can take five bites, and every time you’ll taste something different.”

Genevieve Villamora (SFS ’98) Co-Owner and Co-Founder, Bad Saint

Bad Saint is the brainchild of Nick Pimentel and Genevieve Villamora (SFS ’98), both veterans of the local restaurant scene and American-raised Filipinos who fondly remember the inseparability of food and family during their childhoods. Pimentel also owns Room 11, a restaurant, bakery and coffee shop next to Bad Saint. Villamora worked in nonprofits for 10 years after graduation before joining the teams at Room 11, Mediterranean restaurant Komi and northern Thai joint Little Serow, among others. The story of Bad Saint’s humble beginnings is a serendipitous one: Both Pimentel and Villamora had begun researching the trend of Filipino food in the U.S. before the former brought it up in a conversation. From then on, the two worked tirelessly to put the team together and acquire funding for the restaurant, which is named after Saint Malo, Louisiana, the first Filipino — and possibly the first Asian — settlement in the country.

In a city where many ethnic eateries combine cuisines to attract more diners, Bad Saint’s emphasis on authenticity and wholeness is perhaps its most distinguishing feature. Step into the intimate restaurant and one could easily misidentify it as a dining room in a standard Filipino

ISABEL BINAMIRA/THE HOYA

Bad Saint was founded by two veterans of the D.C. restaurant scene, Nick Pimentel and Genevieve Villamora (SFS ’98). Their aims hearken to their childhoods, when food was virtually inseparable from family and community.

the guide

friday, march 18, 2016

THE HOYA

B5

Farmers Market: Startup Central Gracie Hochberg Special to The Hoya

The first Georgetown Farmers Market of the season took place Wednesday afternoon in Red Square, offering local food vendors a location to sell their products. This year, the farmers market launched a new entrepreneurship marketplace to support student entrepreneurs, giving them the opportunity to test their food and drink startup ideas in a more professional setting. Here are three student and alumni startups that have been featured at the farmers market.

Lulu's Ice Cream Luisa Santos (COL ’14) started Lulu’s Ice Cream as a senior at Georgetown, and the business model was so successful that she continued it full time in a physical location in Miami following graduation. Lulu’s uses fresh, unpreserved ingredients to make the ice cream from scratch, then flash freezes it using liquid nitrogen as the customer orders, creating an experience and flavor available nowhere else.

Although Santos now operates her business full time as both a store and a catering service, she did not always have a permanent location. Santos started selling her ice cream at the Georgetown Farmers Market, before moving on to participate in other farmers markets in the area and catering.

However, her success was not without challenges. During her senior year, she prioritized the business, and she put her academics to the side.

“I joke around, but I pretty much just stopped school those last few months. Really, I wrote my thesis in like a few days. It was a mess,” Santos said.

Fortunately, she received enormous support from friends and the Georgetown community. In fact, she claims that her being in Georgetown and Washington, D.C. was an asset from the beginning, and that she relied on the help of countless individuals through the challenging process.

“It was so, so extremely helpful that I was in D.C. and school when I started, from the competitions I could enter to the amount of mentors I had access to on campus,” Santos said. “There were so many things happening at Georgetown that allowed me to even think this was an option for me that I don’t think I would’ve really done it if I’d thought about it after maybe doing a year in finance.”

LULU’S ICE CREAM

Georgetown Bubble

FILE PHOTO: ISABEL BINAMIRA/THE HOYA

The students behind bubble tea startup Georgetown Bubble, Rachel Villanueva (SFS ’16), left, Tim Yim (SFS ’17), Michelle Hur (SFS ’17) and Natalie Kaliss (SFS ’18), aim to bring high-quality beverages to the Georgetown Farmers Market.

The Georgetown-famous Misfit Juicery, cofounded by Phil Wong (SFS ’15) and Ann Yang (SFS ’16), sells juices made from defective (or “misfit”) but delicious and healthy ingredients to stores in over a dozen locations in the D.C. area.

Wong and Yang developed the idea behind Misfit after they met in an entrepreneurship class in 2014. Currently, the company employs three to four individuals at a given time to produce the juice in a commercial kitchen in D.C. Running a thriving business while being a full time student has challenged Yang and defined her time at Georgetown.

“It’s super crazy. It’s definitely been very personally transformative. I am so glad that I did it, and I don’t have any regrets at all. But it’s definitely been a very different college experience. I have definitely had to make a lot of sacrifices,” Yang said.

The team has also dealt with a number of difficult decisions, such as reconciling the ethical component of the small, personal business with the increased efficiency that comes from taking on bigger purchases from wealthier buyers.

“The way that sales growth works and the consumer products and goods, as you start getting larger accounts, it becomes less productive to deliver to smaller accounts even if they’re still really important, so you kind of have to weigh the balance of creating an efficient business,” Yang said.

Appreciating flaws not only in produce, but also in the business experience, Yang said she does not regret taking on this venture and she readily embraces the lessons she has learned from this experience.

“I think mistakes are super important in creating people’s ability to creatively problem solve and also just to push themselves out of their comfort zones,” Yang said.

Like Yim and Santos, Yang capitalized on the opportunities that Georgetown, the student body and the D.C. location had to offer. Despite the difficulty of launching a startup while in college, the three entrepreneurs’ businesses appear promising as they continue to grow and develop.

Returning to the farmers market this semester is Georgetown Bubble, a bubble tea business founded by Tim Yim (SFS ’17).

Beginning with small pop-up stores a year ago, Georgetown Bubble grew steadily in response to both new and long-time fans of bubble tea, which was previously unavailable in the neighborhood.

“We had a good concept, we had a good market, and thought, let’s see where it goes. From our first pop up, we were surprised how well it was doing,” Yim said.

Yim, who also serves as the executive director of the business, took initiative in starting the business, a complex operation that is fully up to legal code and tax regulations and now employs 10 independent contractors.

Yim credits much of his success to the help of dozens of fellow Georgetown students, including his employees and peers who helped along the way. He also cites Santos in particular as one of his advisers.

While Georgetown Bubble has grown impressively within the last year, Yim does not plan to move the business to a physical location, at least not in the near future.

“The way I run the business is within my means. I don’t have to grow astronomically, but it’s sustainable, it’s selfsufficient and, in the end, profitable,” Yim said.

According to Yim, Georgetown Bubble has attracted students who had never tried bubble tea before.

“We catch a lot of people who have never had bubble tea but, because they see a long line, they want to give it a try. Once they have the sample, most of the time, their reaction is mind-blowing,” Yim said.

Misfit Juicery

MISFIT JUICERY

Misfit Juicery takes pride in the unique recipe of its signature products, which consists of defective ingredients sourced from a wide variety of produce. The business now runs out of a commercial kitchen in D.C.

B6

the guide

THE HOYA

BON APPETIT

Friday, March 18, 2016

MVTRIANGLEBLOG

D.C.’s Shaw neighborhood is one of the city’s best hidden treasures. Located in the heart of D.C., the enclave historically known as a center for African-American culture has recently been redeveloped into one of D.C.’s most exciting neighborhoods, replete with restaurants and bars, including Southern Efficiency and Dacha Beer Garden.

Shaw: DC's Best-Kept Secret

Claire Carrique

Ninth Streets evolved into corridors in which high-end department stores and progressing businesses, as well as schools, juke joints and Located in the heart of Washington, D.C., places of worship chose to take root.

Shaw is a small, charming, historic neighThings took a drastic turn for the neighborhood replete with unique restaurants borhood after destructive riots took place and bars and is on its way to competing with in response to the assassination of Martin popular destinations like Adams Morgan or Luther King Jr. The neighboring community U Street Corridor. has since made drastic efforts to contribute Located between Florida Avenue and M to its reconstruction and development, reStreet, and 11th Street inventing the neighand New Jersey Avenue borhood as an area of and next to several extenintersection of the old sively developed and popand the new. ular areas such as 14th The combination Street, downtown and of the historical and Mount Vernon Square, modern presence is Shaw can easily go by what is truly captivatunnoticed. However, the ing about Shaw. The neighborhood boasts a traditional architecrich history and cultural ture keeps its appearheritage. Named after ance quaint and resiCivil War Colonel Robert dential, but the new ERIC HEIDENBERGER Gould Shaw, it was origiManaging Partner, Shaw’s Tavern construction projects nally a destination for reminds visitors that many freed slaves in the Shaw is catching up post-war period. with the latest lifestyle trends that comes For many years, the neighborhood was with being a part of a big city. To add to its the center of African-American culture in charming atmosphere, the alternative and D.C., housing many famous artists, from the secretive label associated with the area makes celebrated Langston Hughes to jazz legend it a unique find for those who are in constant Duke Ellington. As D.C. continued to grow, lookout for hidden and undiscovered bars, so did Shaw, and soon enough, Seventh and restaurants, art galleries and street art.

Hoya Staff Writer

“Shaw is a great neighborhood rich in culture. It has an authentic D.C. feel with an amazing community of residents.”

At first glance, Shaw might seem like a residential neighborhood. However, upon closer inspection, it proves itself to be a hub of new and fresh restaurants. Shaw offers places that cater to every taste and need: for the foodies, the coffee connoisseurs, the artists and the adventurers.

Shaw’s Tavern is a cozy American tavern with Southern flair and its management describes it as a location that “customers like to call home.”

“Shaw is a great neighborhood rich in culture. It has an authentic D.C. feel with an amazing community of residents. There's a lot of buzz going around about the neighborhood with some amazing concepts — bar, restaurant, retail — coming to the area,” Shaw’s Tavern Managing Partner Eric Heidenberger said.

In recent years, Shaw has seen the establishment of a diverse array of bars and restaurants, all based on innovative concepts, yet simultaneously offering original experiences. One of these is Chaplin’s, a restaurant that fuses a 1920s atmosphere with Japanese cuisine that plays silent movies every night to create a unique dining experience. Other highlights in the area are BKK Cookshop for savory Thai food, SUNdeVICH for fresh sandwiches prepared with locally grown products, Rito Loco for some of the best tacos in town and Al Crostino for homemade pasta and authentic Italian food.

General Manager of Al Crostino Juliana Nicolai said that one of the main reasons Shaw is becoming so popular is that it has a “small ma-and-pap business and residential vibe and doesn’t seem like a cookie-cutter neighborhood.”

There is also more to Shaw than great food.

There are several venues ideal for enjoying a drink or two with friends, family or co-workers: Dacha Beer Garden as a popular destination for a beer outdoors, A&D Neighborhood Bar for a hipster-pub-like experience and creative cocktails and Southern Efficiency for whiskey-based cocktails.

In addition to food and drink, Shaw is also the perfect destination to experience the history and culture of D.C. The historically emblematic Howard Theater, restored in 2012, offers fun entertainment from live music shows to R&B Soul Brunch. Also worth visiting is the Long View Gallery, a boutique art gallery showcasing local artists with monthly exhibits of contemporary American art.

While it remains an important residential neighborhood of D.C., Shaw’s growth as a cultural and entertainment center is palpable. It is worth visiting for its abundant heritage and history, as well as an availability of trendy restaurants and concept bars, art galleries and scenic streets. As Shaw positions itself as an up-and-coming neighborhood in the city, it remains one of its hidden and undiscovered gems.

DC ADOPTS FARM-TO-TABLE TREND Dede Heldfond Hoya Staff Writer

In recent years, “farm to table” has become an unavoidable buzz word in the Washington, D.C. food scene. Emphasizing their fresh ingredients, farm-to-table restaurants aim to give diners a feeling of community and connection to the ingredients’ origins. While the high quality of fresh ingredients means that some of these restaurants are on the pricier end, the tastes of locally sourced vegetables, dairy and meats cannot be found in any other types of eateries.

Since 1999, Restaurant Nora, a New American restaurant, became known by many as the founder of the farm-totable trend in D.C. Located on Florida Avenue, Restaurant Nora was the first organic certified restaurant in the United States. Sourcing ingredients throughout neighboring states, such as Virginia and Maryland, chef Nora Poullion has been awarded many times for her dedication and success in serving up wholesome and sustainable meals.

Even the ever-growing fast-casual scene in D.C. has been affected by this movement. Many chains, such as Sweetgreen, pride themselves on providing high-quality ingredients both economically and efficiently. These chains also promote nutrition as the key ingredient to a healthy lifestyle. Every location of Sweetgreen, which was founded by graduates Nicolas Jammet (MSB ’07), Jonathan Neman (MSB ’07) and Nathaniel Ru (MSB ’07), boasts a giant sign identifying where each of the ingredients is sourced. At the core of the chain’s values is a mission to source local and organic ingredients in an effort to support the

community for future generations to come. Sweetgreen has redefined fast food by offering an appealing and healthy option that accommodates the busy life of the urban American. Recently, Business Insider even referred to the chain as the single leader in the growing farm-to-table fast-food movement.

Undoubtedly, one of the most appealing aspects of the farm-to-table trend is its health benefits. Little Beet, the city’s newest farm-fresh fast-casual restaurant, aims to serve wholesome, nutritious foods. Franklin Becker, the restaurant’s head chef, conceived the idea for Little Beet after he was diagnosed with type

2 diabetes. He decided to transform his cooking style to be healthier. The menu rotates seasonally based on what ingre dients are the most fresh. As is so aptly mentioned in the restaurant’s mission statement, “What grows together, goes together.”

While the farm-to-table movement may have originated as a trendy market ing ploy to attract health-conscious cus tomers, it has grown enormously popu lar througout the past decades in D.C. With almost every restaurant boasting about its high-quality ingredients, din ers are almost guaranteed to find a nutri tious meal just about anywhere.

Connecting with your food sources makes the meal so much more satisfying.

Since then, many restaurants in D.C. have followed Restaurant Nora’s farmto-table model. A favorite among Georgetown students, Founding Farmers has demonstrated its dedication to the fresh produce movement, putting the American farmer at the heart of its restaurant.

The restaurant, which is jointly owned by over 400,000 family farmers of the North Dakota Farmer’s Union, serves food made with pure ingredients that honors the farmers and customers alike.

A noticeable element of farm-to-table restaurants like Founding Farmers is the positive effect that eating locally sourced foods has on the local economy. As Founding Farmers’ motto explains, connecting with your food sources makes the meal so much more satisfying.

NORA.COM

Although the farm-to-table movement is nothing new, many new eateries, including Restaurant Nora, are marrying the concept with fast-casual service. The result is a dining experience that is more accessible to the urban diner.

FRIDAY, MARCH 18, 2016

the guide

THE HOYA

Evolution of a Georgetown Dinner ELEANOR TOLF Hoya Staff Writer

While O’Donovan Hall is often the subject of harsh student criticism, the much-maligned oncampus dining options were not always so divisive. From the bountiful Christmas feasts served in Georgetown’s earliest days to the short-lived dining hall under Darnall Hall, food at Georgetown has gone through a wide range of transformations.

Dining options at the Hilltop were well-received at the school’s inception, and founder John Carroll believed that a hearty and nutritious diet should be an important aspect of every Hoya’s daily life. In 1812 he wrote to University President Fr. Giovanni Grassi, S.J., imploring, “Never relax in your attention to … the personal neatness of your scholars; and to their diet.

I know it is good in substance, but I fear, your cook is deficient.”

As a result of Carroll’s focus on quality food, the first few decades of the university saw students treated to extensive, gourmet menus.

In an 1813 diary entry, Fr. John McElroy, S.J., described the Christmas dinner offered to students: “First dish, Corn’d pork and Cabbage; second, Smoked Beef and Turnips; third, spare ribs roasted; fourth, roast geese, toddy, aplles, cakes, and crackers.”

Carroll hired a French cook in 1819 to instruct the resident chef, and in 1833 the ground floor of Mulledy Hall — now Freedom Hall — became the first location specifically allocated for dining on campus. When this new location was introduced, the quality of food quickly began to fall. By the 1840s, complaints were commonplace. In 1846, University President Fr. Thomas Mulledy, S.J., insisted that food at the students’ table “should be as good as that of the community.”

Unfortunately, Mulledy’s recommendation did little to improve the deteriorating dining situation. In “Student Life at Georgetown in the Late [Eighteen] Sixties,” Fr. Francis Barnum, S.J., the university’s first archivist, discussed the sanitary conditions at the time: “It would sometimes happen when pouring out a cup of coffee that the flow would suddenly cease and I have seen a student calmly run his lead pencil down the spout and dislodge one of these big roaches.”

By 1907, nearly 100 years after the enviable 1812 Christmas menu, the food selection looked drastically different. In the Georgetown College Journal, student Robin Ruff (C ’60) reported: “Horologically we had three meals a day. [But] gastronomically, it may fairly be questioned if we had one … breakfast … of coffee or tea and dry bread, abundant, but not toothsome. The mid-day meal … one dish of meat. … Supper was an encore of breakfast, plus butter.”

At this time, a new dining location at Ryan Hall was intended to mark a transition into a better dining experience. Ida Mary Barry Ryan, the wife of business magnate Thomas F. Ryan, donated an ornate set of delftware and even provided a uniform for the college waiters, complete with “swallow-tails and shiny pumps.”

These waiters served meals to students until the 1950s, when the service became too expensive.

This marked a transition from “family style” to cafeteria style at Georgetown, which was theoGEORGETOWN UNIVERSITY ARCHIVES

rized to lower expenses and raise the quality of food.

The New South Cafeteria, the last before Leo’s, opened in 1959. Receiving mixed feedback throughout its existence, New South faced its harshest criticism in the 1970s. A switch of the food services provider from SAGA Corporation food services to Specialized drew backlash from both students and administrators. In 1971, Hall Director John Bengiovi called equipment at New South “antiquated and inadequate,” and noted the malfunctioning steam tables, conveyers and ice machines as well as insufficient amounts of plates, silverware and trays.

The cafeteria had very poor sanitary conditions, and closed for eight days in 1971 after three cases of bacillary dysentery sent employees and students to the hospital with severe cramps, diarrhea and fever. It reopened in November of 1971, and it was not until 2002 that the university decided to discontinue the New South Dining Hall.

When it was still open, a Wall Street Journal writer and top local chefs criticized the cafeteria’s lack of sushi, made-to-order pasta and carving roast. Their complaints came at a time when the quality of college dining was becoming a more important issue, and schools across the country refocused their options in an effort to attract more applicants.

The space below Darnall Hall, now occupied

by Epicurean and Company, was once its own dining hall used largely by upperclassmen.

When New South Dining Hall closed and Leo’s opened, Darnall hurried to make changes to match the amenities of the new location. In 2003, the space underwent a $650,000 redesign in an attempt to create a restaurant-style look.

The renovation, made only to the dining section, added a pizza station and make-your-own pizza bar, as well as structural alterations such as repositioning entire walls and adding islands for drinks and desserts.

The space closed just two years later, and Leo’s became the campus’ only cafeteria. Students expressed discontent with the lack of student involvement in this decision, and the Darnall Dining Hall was widely missed. Students began to petition for its re-opening, raising concerns about overcrowding at Leo’s and the lack of a separate dining hall for Georgetown upperclassmen.

Considering the changes made to Hoya dining over the last 200 years, it is not surprising that the school once again finds itself at a crossroads as the end of its contract with Aramark in May draws closer. Neither the university nor the catering service has directly commented on the future of the partnership, but Auxiliary Services Director of Business Operations Loren Sumerlin said the dining transition will be more inclusive than ever.

“We continue to work on the request for proposal and post updates on the Auxiliary Business Services website,” Sumerlin wrote in an email to THE HOYA. “We have multiple students involved with the development of the RFP and have planned opportunity for further student engagement throughout the process as we work to develop a new contract.”

With the potential for a new catering service soon, students can hope for a return of dining options that would make John Carroll proud.

B7

B8

the guide

THE HOYA

Friday, march 18, 2016

Top Five COFfee Shops in DC

1

2

TRYST

Soho Tea and Coffee 2150 P St. NW

Nestled within the city on P Street and just two blocks from Dupont Circle, Soho Tea and Coffee produces a vast array of delightful coffees and teas while also catering to student customers. The menu has just about everything one could want from a coffee shop, ranging from the Mexicana, “rich Ghirardelli coffee mixed with coffee and whipped cream,” to Sami’s Choo Choo, which tastes just like drinking a peanut butter cup. These specialty beverages accompany more traditional offerings. Another great attribute is the effort Soho makes to accommodate students. This includes complimentary Wi-Fi and student discounts at varying times on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. For anyone in search of a new study spot off campus, or just a creative cup of coffee, Soho Tea and Coffee is the place to go.

3

La Colombe 900 sixth St. NW

Specializing in its diverse selection of coffees from around the world, La Colombe is an ideal spot for both coffee connoisseurs and afternoon wanderers alike. La Colombe offers coffee blends from around the world from Brazil to Haiti to Colombia, each with its own distinct flavor profile. The menu presents an opportunity for patrons to open their palates to a more global set of tastes. In addition to this unique coffee experience, the shop is filled with open space that is perfect for doing work or relaxing. This combination of aromatic coffees and a chic setup makes for a unique ambience. Serving coffee with international flair, La Colombe finds a perfect home in D.C. and attracts a diverse crowd.

SOHO TEA AND COFFEE

The Wydown Coffee Bar 1924 14th St. NW

With its storefront opening a little over a year ago, the Wydown Coffee Bar remains a lesser-known option to Georgetown students. Wydown features a delicious mix of coffee beverages that look just as good as they taste. Coffee art aside, the distinguishing feature of Wydown is the selection of house-made pastries freshly available for purchase each day. With a focus on organic ingredients, Wydown produces an eclectic mix of baked goods that often put a slight twist on classics, including its popular blackberry lavender scone. Further, Wydown caters to gluten-free customers by offering alternative options. Though the restaurant is a little confined, the powerhouse combination of tits coffee and pastries makes it more than worth the trip.

THE WYDOWN COFFEE BAR

5

LA COLOMBE

the coffee bar 1200 17th St. NW Suite 150

With its newest location at the intersection of 17th and M St., the Coffee Bar is highly accessible to students. Its atmosphere and trendy, modern layout cater to all types of interactions.

Its coffee is sourced from a variety of locations, producing a mixture of delicious brews. Additionally, a variety of seasonal blends cycles through the menu, maintaining freshness and originality. With its salvaged yet modern design style, The Coffee Bar provides both an enjoyable place to hang out with friends as well as a quick stop for a caffeine boost. Next time you’re looking for a spot to start a lazy Saturday morning or finish up some work, The Coffee Bar should be at the top of your list.

Top Five Vegetarian Dishes

1

Hoya Staff Writer

tryst 2459 18th St. NW

Located in the heart of Adams Morgan, Tryst is worth the visit not only for its selection of coffee and pastries, but also for its relaxing atmosphere. Tryst offers a casual environment for either a morning latte and pastry or an afternoon of work and a smoothie. The menu features classic coffee and tea beverages alongside more creative choices such as Cuban coffee or frozen “chaipuccinos.” Serving direct trade Counter Culture Coffee, Tryst maintains high standards for its products. Priding itself on being distinct from the typical coffee chain, Tryst spices up the experience with a decor best described as effectively disjointed. The tables, chairs and sofas don’t all match, but this only contributes to its charm. Tryst excels in genuinely providing its customers with high quality products in a hip, creatively designed space.

4

Brian Davia

THE COFEE BAR

casey doyle Hoya Staff Writer

Hashi Sushi 1073 Wisconsin Ave. NW The Vegetable Bento

Sushi is usually a safe bet for veggie-friendly fare, but it’s a treat to find an entire bento box designated as fish-free. Filling but not heavy, Hashi Sushi’s vegetable bento comes with a mixed veggie roll, cucumber and avocado maki, veggie tempura, veggie gyoza and an extra helping of rice. The tempura is crispy and perfectly battered, and the bite-sized gyoza burst in your mouth with their warm and savory filling, an excellent complement to the cool and refreshing sushi rolls. In addition, the adorable bento box that the dish arrives in provides the perfect food Instagram opportunity.

2

mixed vegetable curry

taj of india 2809 M St. NW

It may seem like a sin not to order pizza from Pizzeria Paradiso, but this oft-overlooked appetizer offers a healthy alternative that will fill you up as much as their delicious pies. The giardino – meaning “garden” – comes with a heaping plate of roasted eggplant and hearty roasted greens, offering a juicy, rich flavor profile, along with a serving of broccoli rabe that provides a uniquely bitter bite. The best part of the dish is the dollop of smooth, cool goat cheese topped with salsa verde, best spread onto the crisped slice of homemade bread that comes with the dish.

Thunder burger 3056 M St. NW

the portobello rd Thunder Burger provides one of the toughest meals to find as a vegetarian — a burger that is juicy, filling and fun. Not the dry, plain patty you can find in your mom’s freezer, this all-vegetable concoction is as messy as it is mouth-watering, but worth every stain.

Roasted red pepper, zucchini and tomato are piled onto a chardonnay-and-herb-marinated portobello mushroom and topped with a melted slice of Swiss cheese. The soft bun is spread with a delicious walnut pesto that adds a hint of sophisticated nutty flavor to the mountain of vegetables. Continue with the finger food by pairing the burger with the thick but crispy thunder fries, or branch out to one of the other delicious sides like the sweet cranberry vinaigrette coleslaw or refreshing apple potato salad.

3

Pizzeria Paradiso 3282 M St. NW

Giardino Antipasti

TAJ OF INDIA

This simple classic is one of many delicious choices on Taj of India’s vegetarian-friendly menu. Choose your designated spice level and enjoy a seasonal variety of vegetables sauteed with tomatoes and onions. The fragrant basmati rice served alongside the dish can either by mixed in or enjoyed on its own to cool your tongue should you venture to a higher level of spice. Paired with a side of delicious vegetable samosas or warm, fluffy naan bread, this selection can’t be beat. The portions are large enough for you to bring leftovers home.

4

HASHI SUSHI

5

Little China Cafe 4830 MacArthur Blvd. NW

vegetable dumplings

THUNDER BURGER

PIZZERIA PARADISO

If you’re looking to have six fist-sized dumplings for under $6 delivered to your door, then Little China Cafe is your best bet. Tastier than their steamed counterpart, the fried dumplings have a slight crisp to the outside of their thick, chewy, homemade dumpling dough. The filling is made of salty and juicy diced veggies that provide extra crunch. The texture combination of the chewy wrapping, the crisp of the fry and the crunch of the filling means these huge handfuls are anything but a monotonously mushy dish. These little balls of heaven will make you wonder why you ever went with soppy pork hash — and they will fill you up without emptying your wallet.

PIZZERIA PARADISO

the guide

FRIDAY, MARCH 18, 2016

THE HOYA

Where to Take Your Parents

1

BLUE DUCK TAVERN 1201 24TH ST. NW

This new American hotspot in the lobby of the Park Hyatt off M Street boasts a pristine open kitchen and a market-priced menu that ranges from a hearty brunch — be sure to try the short rib hash, the roasted bone marrow and the classic chicken and waffles — to a rustic farm-to-table dinner menu featuring highlights such as the roasted duck breast, the pan-roasted rockfish and the crispy brussels sprouts with pimento cheese. Regardless of when you go, however, the first sight that will greet you will be the two-person apple pies in the restaurant’s bakery, an enticing offer for anyone with room to spare by the end of the meal. Go there for heavy sauces, charred vegetables and an impressive Instagram post.

3

2

ROSE’S LUXURY 717 EIGHTH ST. SE

ROSE’S LUXURY

SMITH & WOLLENSKY 1112 19TH ST. NW

Yes. Smith & Wollensky is a chain. The company owns locations all over the country. But this particular American steakhouse sets itself apart from its butter-drenched, high-calorie competitors with its no-frills approach to meat. Minimal seasonings, strong, simple sides like creamed spinach and roasted brussels sprouts and not a Cheddar Cheese Crab and Seared Ahi Tuna Explosion in sight. Also refreshingly unadorned and flavor-centric are the restaurant’s ribeye carpaccio, smoked burrata and scallops. Go there for beef, beef and more beef.

SMITH & WOLLENSKY

5

ZAYTINYA 701 NINTH ST. NW

“What are mezze?” the homepage of the Zaytinya on Ninth Street asks. In a few, simple words: Mediterranean tapas. The plus side is that the restaurant’s bite-size dishes offer endless possibilities for a lunch or a dinner out.

The disadvantage comes when perusing Zaytinya’s six-page menu to find the diamonds in the rough. A few picks: the tzatziki with lavash chips, the crispy eggplant and yogurt sauce, the seared halloumi cheese, the fried squid, sea scallops, and smoked sweetbreads. Not to be missed as well is the spit-roasted lamb wrapped in phyllo and goat cheese. Go there for the flavors of olive oil, lamb and creative uses of dairy.

Top Five Dishes for less

1

ZAYTINYA

SHANNON HOU Hoya Staff Writer

DAIKAYA RAMEN SHOP 705 SIXTH ST. NW SPICY MISO RAMEN $13.25

Arguably the best ramen shop in the District, Daikaya offers five different bowls of ramen, including one delicious, completely vegan version. The spicy miso ramen ($13.25) is the best bowl in the shop, with a rich, meaty broth that leaves a tingle of spice on the tongue. Piled high with al dente bean sprouts and wok-fired ground pork, this bowl of noodles is a delightful combination for the senses. The shining star of Daikaya, however, is definitely in the quality of its noodles, which are springy and plentiful and reportedly imported from Japan. Splurge on the nitamago ($1.50), a soy-marinated soft-boiled egg, to add to a bowl of ramen. The tiny ramen shop right across from the Verizon Center is often packed with locals and tourists and operates like a traditional ramen shop with communal tables with stool seating. A two-hour wait is not uncommon, so prepare to walk around Chinatown during down time or eat during off-peak hours. An important note: This ramen shop does not take reservations, and its sister restaurant upstairs, Daikaya Izakaya, which does take reservations, does not serve a selection of ramen daily.

2

2AMYS 3715 MACOMBE ST. NW

MARGHERITA, PIZZE D.O.C. $12.95

Up north toward the National Zoo is 2Amys Neapolitan pizzeria, a true Italian-style restaurant that serves D.O.C. pizza certified by the American Delegation of the Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana, an international nonprofit group that focuses on the art of making true Neapolitan pizza. 2Amys only serves the highest quality pizza, made with fresh mozzarella and tomato sauce and a tender center and a slightly charred crust.

Since “when in Rome, do as the Romans,” 2Amys’ popular margherita pizza d.o.c ($12.95) is a great pick for any pizza lover. The chewy crust has just the right amount of smoky flavor from its wood fire oven, and its buttery mozzarella pairs perfectly with the tangy and salty tomato sauce. Other must-tries include the suppli a telefono (rice croquettes, $5.95) and any pizzas topped with their house-cured meats. Before making the trek up to 2Amys though, be aware that it can get quite crowded during peak hours and the restaurant does not take reservations.

4

Hoya Staff Writer

RASIKA WEST END

Like any quaint, cozy eatery with astonishingly good food, Rose’s Luxury, a bit of a trip from campus, requires some stamina. The restaurant, which does not take reservations, often has a line down the block around 5:30 p.m. when it opens. But its food, and its rather blase approach to serving it — a limited menu of small, family-style dishes like the crispy pig’s ear salad, the spaghetti with cartelized cauliflower and the chicken fried oyster with Yemeni hot sauce — has a minimalist, no-frills charm. Don’t expect a fancy night out with Rose’s Luxury. It’s crowded and noisy the entire night, but its honest attitude toward its food and its service is worth it.

4

JINWOO CHONG

RASIKA WEST END 1190 NEW HAMPSHIRE AVE. NW

As Indian restaurants are rather hard to come by around campus, the new Eat n’Joy replacement Curry & Pie, has attracted a respectable following. For some high-end Indian fusion, however, turn to Rasika, one of which occupies the lobby of the Ritz-Carlton on 22nd Street. The menu has an equal number of traditional dishes like the smoky vegetable korma and chicken tikka masala and some more adventurous hybrids like the grouper curry, the black cod with fresh dill and bhindi chili garlic. Also a safe but tasty choice is the onion and sage naan paired with any of the restaurant’s grand selection of curries and sauces. Go there for curried fish and flavors of mango.

BLUE DUCK TAVERN

B9

2AMYS

AMSTERDAM FALAFEL 2425 18TH ST. NW FALAFEL $7.50

Beside some of Adams Morgan’s most popular bars, Amsterdam Falafel is a high-quality fast-casual vegetarian chain that serves just two dishes: falafel ($6.25 small, $7.50 regular) and fries ($ 3.70 small, $5.00 regular). Falafel pitas come in two sizes, regular and small, and include access to an unlimited, 22-option, self-serve toppings bar with hummus, peanut sauce, marinated chickpeas, cucumber salad and pickled beets. The falafel are often prepared on demand, and are fried until they develop a thick, crunchy crust but still maintain a moist interior. The heavenly fries, crisp yet tender, are served in cones that fit perfectly into holes in the shop’s unique tabletops. Three fry-sauce options are also available: curried ketchup, fritesaus and peanutsaus. The best part about Amsterdam Falafel? It’s open until 3 a.m. on Thursdays and until 4 a.m. on Fridays to fulfill any late-night cravings after a long night of hitting the dance floor in AdMo.

3

DAIKAYA RAMEN SHOP

A BAKED JOINT 440 K ST. NW BLT $10

This sister cafe of the popular Georgetown cupcake spot, Baked and Wired, has not yet been open for a year in Mount Vernon, just blocks from the Georgetown Law Center. Keeping with Baked and Wired tradition, each bakery good at A Baked Joint is freshly made and artfully composed with complementary flavors. The BLT ($10) is an extremely well-made version of the classic sandwich, composed of a smear of mayonnaise, several slices of thick, applewood smoked bacon, tomato and Boston bibb lettuce that lie between two slices of a tight-crumbed white pain de mie.

As a vegetarian option, the Veggie #1 ($10) is chock full of roasted sweet potato, smoked eggplant, peppers, and kale, which are all melded together with a layer of creamy goat cheese on focaccia. The warehouse-inspired atmosphere, plentiful seating and high-quality espresso drinks make this cafe the perfect, albeit far, study spot.

5

A BAKED JOINT

BUB AND POPS 1815 M ST. NW

ROAST PORK SANDWICH $8

AMSTERDAM FALAFEL

Just a few blocks from the Dupont Circle GUTS bus stop, nestled deep along a stretch of eateries, is Bub and Pop’s, a creative Italian-style sandwich shop that also offers a wide selection of specialty pickles. The roast pork ($8 half, $15 whole) is full of slow-roasted porchetta, hazelnut gremolata, aged provolone, pork jus, with the additional option of broccoli rabe ($1 half, $2 whole). The pork is tender and salty, while the aged provolone adds a sharp umami tang. This sandwich is the perfect combination of textures for the palette: a springy and chewy roll pairs well with the broccoli rabe. The atmosphere is both cute and nostalgic, and its chalkboard menus and numerous wall photos add a personal touch to any quick lunch in Dupont Circle.

BUB AND POPS

the guide

FRIDAY, MARCH 18, 2016

THE HOYA

B10

ILLUSTRATION BY JESUS RODRIGUEZ/THE HOYA

Best Eats in Georgetown 1. DAS ETHIOPIAN

4. UNUM

7. PAOLO’S RISTORANTE

Das Ethiopian introduces visitors to the art of Ethiopian cuisine, offering an authentic experience in a beautiful venue. Platters of meat or vegetables are served with traditional spongy bread to be used in place of silverware.

The intimate and modern neighborhood setting of this contemporary American restaurant is both warm and inviting. Owned by a couple, the restaurant is a veritable labor of love, and the attention to detail comes through in every dish.

Founded in 1987, Paolo’s lies between Wisconsin Avenue and N Street. With an open kitchen, Paolo’s offers an intriguing mixture of classical Italian elegance and Californian freshness, inaugurating an already-legendary pizzamaking tradition.

2. STACHOWSKI MARKET

5. MISS SAIGON

8. JACO JUICE AND TACO BAR

Stachowski, a favorite neighborhood market and deli, is home to many locals’ favorite sandwiches. Specials include the pastrami, 4 meat grinder and smoked kielbasa sandwiches served with homemade pickle slices

Amid sparkling-yellow furniture, Miss Saigon is a must for people in the area. Located almost at the far end of M Street, this Georgetown eatery provides a tasty Vietnamese option to traditional restaurants.

Jaco Juice and Taco Bar is the newest fast-casual eatery serving a wide range of simple yet delicious dishes like tacos, quesadillas and burritos as well as fresh juices, smoothies and acai bowls.

3. LA CHAUMIERE

6. CHEZ BILLY SUD

La Chaumière offers deluxe French cuisine in an elegant dining room with a rustic ambiance. For the past 39 years, this restaurant has served fresh seafood and game, featuring traditional dishes like boudin blanc and cassoulet.

Tucked away in a cozy space, Chez Billy Sud is a cafe delivering Southern French food with superb service. The wide variety of hand-crafted cocktails and French wines offered is sure to complement any dish.

1201 28th St. NW

1425 28th St. NW

2813 M St. NW

2917 M St. NW

3057 M St. NW

1039 31st St. NW

1303 Wisconsin Ave. NW

1614 Wisconsin Ave. NW

9. CURRY & PIE

1204 34th St. NW Curry & Pie is an Indian casual restaurant with classics such as chicken tikka masala, samosas, chaat, and naan. Visitors have the option to control the spice level of the food, allowing for a customizable dish for everyone’s palate.