Live Hoian Magazine

www.livehoian.com

Activities . Art . Dining . Entertainment . Hotels . Shopping . Spas Nhà Xuất Bản Tổng Hợp Thành Phố Hồ Chí Minh

Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: +84 510 3927 040 - Fax: +84 510 3927 041 www.victoriahotels-asia.com

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Hoi An Useful Information Hoi An Wet Weather Information Live Hoi An's Good Business List Community

Features

A Newbie’s Perspective Vietnamese Basket Boat GAM, A Precious Place Counting Your Blessings Photo Essay:

Maps

Hoi An- Da Nang Coast Hoi An Old Quarter An Bang / North Town Area Cua Dai / East Town Area

Sections

Activities Nightlife Dining Shopping Health & Wellness Family Property Around Hoi An Travel Da Nang

Business Directory Important Contacts

2 8,9 14,15 18,19 22-25 30,31 32-37 38-41 42-45 50-55

Contents

Preface

58 62,63 66, 67 70, 71 74-77 78,79 82-99 100-105 108-116 118,119 120,121 122,123 124-135 136-143 144-154 156

Issue 17

and will ducational , all in e , n fu is h A tour whic see the real Vietnam with r bring you to you will end the tou ols to e nly o th t o ve N a ! h e l n o t you wil g like a pro! u b s, to o h amazing p to continue shootin Contact Etienne: info@hoianphototour.com or 09 05 67 18 98

www.hoianphototour.com

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Preface

Bye bye sizzling sun and hello to bowls of warming phở and wintry weather! It is beginning to look like Christmas back home so apologies if you came to escape the cold and wet. But what’s a bit of rain when we’ve got the most festive three months of the calendar to lift our spirits and keep us entertained? There is a uniquely festive atmosphere in the old town during this time of year. Lantern lit streets and mossy olden rooftops. I find it magical!

Plus you’ll find plenty of ways to keep active during the soggy season this quarter with our latest edition editorials, not to mention a myriad of shopping, dining and spa reviews. Since it is that season – see our shopping section for tips on Christmas gifts.

Or, if you just want to kick back and have a good read there are some fabulously interesting features to help brush you up on the local culture. If you can’t beat the rain, embrace it, jump on a two or four-wheeled vehicle and have an adventure regardless!

PS For a month by month guide as to what’s happening in town grab our handy fold out map which is available all over Hoi An and is also free!

Center Viet Nam Advertising & Marketing Co.,Ltd 77 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An City Quang Nam Province, Viet Nam Tel: 0510 3920889 Fax: 0510 3920889 info@livehoian.com www.livehoian.com Founder and Managing Director: Amy Morison Sales Manager: Neil Fraser Office Manager: Nguyen Thi Van Business Development Manager: Phung Anh Kiet Website Content Manager: Emma Bolton Senior Writer: Catherine Besch Distribution: Phu Dinh Luc Design: Spot Design – www.spotdesign.com.vn Editorial contributors: Neville Dean, Neil Fraser and Phil Mellifont Photography contributors: Nguyen Dinh Phong and Etienne Bossot Special thanks to Dale Fraser for the cover photo (dale.fxww@gmail.com)

LIVE HOI AN – (Song ngữ) Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Giám đốc – Tổng Biên tập Nguyễn Thị Thanh Hương Biên tập: Nguyễn Tư Tường Minh. Sửa bản in: Tường Khánh In số lượng: 7.000 cuốn, khổ: 10 x 20cm tại Công ty in Trần Phú, 71-75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q.1, TP.HCM XNĐKXB số: 300-13/CXB/509-30/THTPHCM ngày 13/3/2013.

QĐXB số: 1253/QĐ-THTPHCM- 2013 ngày 02/10/2013.

In xong và nộp lưu chiểu tháng 10 năm 2013.

LANA FINE TAILORING

dare to be different Why LANA? Because we strive to be different from the hundreds of other tailors shops in Hoi An. Look around at many of the tailors shops in Hoi An and you will see the same old, tired-looking designs. At LANA, we keep in touch with the latest fashions and trends as well as offering all the classics.

At LANA, customer satisfaction is our prime concern and with that in mind we recently opened our own, fully equipped, on-site tailoring studio. Using state-of-the-art equipment from Germany and Japan we are able to offer our customers the best tailor made garments at the most competitive prices.

CONTACT US 90 Le Loi St., Hoi An. t: +84 (0)510 3929559 94 Le Loi St., Hoi An. t: +84 (0)510 3911211 130 Tran Phu St., Hoi An. t: +84 (0)510 3911009 e: lanaallure@me.com w: lanatailor.net

Yaly Couture:

Tailoring to your taste The Yaly name is synonymous with fine tailoring in Hoi An. The original tailor to provide international standard craftsmanship and customer service, professionalism and consistency in quality are the cornerstone of our brand’s reputation. From custom-made suits, bridal wear, evening gowns, shirts, blouses and trousers to fashionable, readymade couture and shoes, customers have a wide range of products to choose from. We invite you to one of our venues today for a professional consultation. All our staff are well-versed in English and are up-to-date with the latest in fashion and design.

* Ad 1: 47 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Hoi An T. 0510.3910474 * Ad 2: 47 Tran Phu, Hoi An T. 0510.3861119 * Ad 3: 358 Nguyen Duy Hieu, Hoi An T. 0510.3914995 Email: yalyshop@dng.vnn.vn Email: quynh@yalycouture.com Website: www.yalycouture.com

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Hoi An Essential Hoi An Useful Info

Welcome to Hoi An, home to central Vietnam's preserved historic old town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999.

This riverside town of (population 120,000 in total) boasts hundreds of tailors, shoemakers, spas, and some of Vietnam's most renowned chefs. The city's architecture reflects the diverse influences of its long history as a busy trading port and both foreign and Vietnamese tourists alike flock to the heritage town year round to take in its history and cultural events while also taking advantage of its modern luxuries.

The following information will guide you in making the most of your stay here.

The Basics • Despite the fact that Vietnamese weather is often sweltering, when visiting the many museums and historical sites in Hoi An, please be respectful of the conservative nature of the Vietnamese in respect to certain revered places.

This means to be sure to cover your arms and avoid the daisy dukes and mini-skirts when spending the day in pagodas, temples, and tombs.

• During the normal working week there are certain times when you cannot ride a motorbike or electric bikes into the old quarter. Push bikes are welcome any time with the exception of the full moon night. Motor free times are (Monday to Saturday): - 8am-11am - 2pm-4.30pm - 6:30pm-9:00pm Sunday: The roads are open to motorbikes excluding the evenings from 6.30pm-9pm.

• The best way to visit Hoi An’s old town attractions is to buy a one day ticket (valid for 24 hours) for 120,000VND. You can purchase tickets from various booths around town, including the Hoi An Office Of Tourist Services (78 Le Loi St). From 18 options (including old houses, museums, assembly halls, and performances centres), you can choose five. Visit www.hoianworldheritage. org.vn for more information.

• In a country where tourists tend to be harassed frequently to buy this and that, pay this fee and that fee, keep in

mind that one of the best ways to see the old town is completely free. The city's most beautiful moments are best seen on a slow stroll through the lantern lit streets at night.

From Point A to Point B, Viet style Bicycle / Motorbike Just about every hotel in Hoi An provides the option of two-wheeled transportation and rarely is the question asked regarding the driver's ability to handle their bikes and scooters. First time drivers welcome. Expect to pay from 100,000 VND for a semi-automatic motorbike per day, to about 150,000 VND for an automatic scooter, but be aware that you can probably knock a 20,000-30,000 VND off those prices if you rent from one of the independent agents around Ba Trieu and Hai Ba Trung streets. Also, if you plan on staying for longer than a couple of days, that price can also be bartered down. Keep your eye on the meter when getting gas from the Petrolimex stations and try to avoid using the petrol stands that pop up after dark as the product can be just as unreliable as the price. The standard rate for bicycles is 20,000 VND per day and it is rare to get a much better deal than that.

Xe Om If going it alone isn't your gig but you'd like to enjoy the adventure of life on a motorbike in Vietnam, try a Xe Om, or motorbike taxi. As Hoi An is a rather small town, don't expect to pay more than 25,000 VND for short jaunts up the road, but from old town to An Bang or Cua Dai beaches you should pay around 40,000 VND. Be aware that your safety is not always guaranteed on the back of these bikes so be sure to wear a helmet, try to avoid wiggling too much or distracting the driver, and do definitely voice your opinion if you feel the driver is going to fast or putting your life in danger. For your safest bet, look for the recognized Xe Om’s in the collared pink shirts with numbers.

Car Taxis Taxis tend to be a safe bet with one of the two main companies: Mai Linh (white and green): 0510 3914 914 and Faifoo (yellow): 0510 3919 191. Finding one when

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you need one is not always easy, but they tend to hang out at the intersection at Phan Chu Trinh St and Le Loi St near the old town or across the river at An Hoi peninsular. Both companies use meters.

Cyclo All cyclos have number plates and are managed by the local police. A rough guide is to pay 100,000VND per hour.

While 100,000 VND per hour is standard, drivers may also give you a flat rate for a pre-defined day trip around the old town.

Boat Consider avoiding the roads all together and taking in the city from the water. For a trip down the river to the water coconut groves and back, expect to pay around 100,000VND per person.

Sightseeing around the old town during the rainy season will cost you 70,000VND or more, but as last year left us with a bone dry monsoon season, the price could have inflated somewhat since the last time Hoi An experienced real flooding.

Festivals and Special Events Legendary Full Moon Night The 14th day of every lunar cycle, Hoi An fills with both locals and tourists celebrating the full moon. The tradition includes offerings to shrines and burning incense to pay homage to their ancestors.

The streets of the historic old town are lit only by lanterns as all fluorescent lighting is banned, so the usually charming town kicks it up a notch during this festival and really shows its true colors. With the old town's pedestrian limits extended beyond their usual boundaries, not even bicycles are allowed in the city so even with the tourists, the streets are more quiet than usual. While the crowds tend to get a bit heavy, especially during the high season, you're still sure to catch one of the many performances and other cultural events along the riverside.

Other Events The full moon is not the only event that gets this town moving. Pick up Live Hoi An's monthy flyer and fold out map for all the upcoming festivals, sports events, and promotional listings. You can also check our website for more details: www.livehoian.com

Useful Everyday Prices Typical Hoi An Street Foods Hoi An's most popular regional specialties such as Cao Lau (Hoi An specialty noodles), Mi Quang (another specialty noodle for the Quang Nam province), and Com Ga in addition to Vietnamese staples such as Pho and Bun are sold in many of the street stalls with their plastic chairs, but not all dishes are served all day as each dish tends to have a particular time of day that it is traditionally served. The central market stalls sell these simple but very tasty dishes at fixed prices of 20,000VND- 40,000VND per plate/bowl.

This should be your guideline if purchasing similar, singular dishes from other vendors in town. Banh Mi should cost approximately 10,000VND (with a meat or scrambled egg filling). Do not pay more than 20,000VND. Drinks from street vendors • Water - small (7-10,000VND) Big (15,000VND) • Soft drinks – can (10,000VND) big bottle (20,000VND) • Beer – can (15,000VND) Snacks from beach or street vendors • Peanuts: 10,000VND per bag • Quail eggs: 15,000VND per bag Basic items • Raincoat/poncho (10,000 VND – pay no more than 15,000VND) • Flip Flops (40,000-80,000VND – cheap ones from market no more than 40,000VND, designer are more expensive) • Drip Coffee Filter (20,000VND + small coffee bag 30,000VND) • Conical Hat (20,000VND – pay no more than 30,000VND) • English language newspaper:30,000VND • Sunglasses: 60,000-100,000VND per pair • Souvenir T-shirts (80,000-120,000VND – depending on quality, pay no more than 140,000VND unless an authentic 100% cotton provider) • Tiger Balm (20,000VND)

WELCOME TO THE NAM HAI Along a seemingly infinite stretch of sand, amidst Vietnam’s richest cultural heritage, a strand of sophisticated, visually striking villas lines the dramatic beachfront. Inspired by 2,500 years of history, The Nam Hai’s architecture and interior design presents a dramatic play on wind and water inspired by ancient feng shui philosophy and the grandeur of the Tu Duc royal tombs of Hue.

HAMLET 1 DIEN DUONG VILLAGE DIEN BAN DISTRICT QUANG NAM PROVINCE

ExpLOrE THE NEArby UNESCO WOrLD HErITAgE SITES Of HOI AN, My SON AND HUE AND rETUrN TO OUr CALM, TrOpICAL SHOrE ON HA My bEACH TO rELAx ArOUND THrEE ExpANSIVE SWIMMINg pOOLS, IN THE SpA, OVEr gOUrMET EASTErN AND WESTErN CUISINE Or IN THE prIVACy Of ONE Of OUr 100 prIVATE rETrEATS, SOME Of WHICH ArE SErVED by A MOST ATTENTIVE bUTLEr.

For bookings or inquiries, please call our Reservations Center at +84 510 3940000 or email at reservations@thenamhai.com

VIET NAM T (84) 510 3 940 000 F (84) 510 3 940 999 namhai@ghmhotels.com

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Hoi An Essential

SOAKING in the SOGGY season Catherine Besch

Whether on holiday or an expat here for the long haul, you've probably been warned of the impending months of inundation about to send us running to higher ground in Central Vietnam. Monsoon rains are on their way (or already upon us) and life in our beautiful beach town is about to get wet. But don't fret yet. While tanning and long bike rides through sunny countryside villages may be off the table for entertainment, Hoi An's got much more to offer than it's long days of sunning on sugary white beaches and hours of sweating off last night's fresh beer binge on a bike ride through lush scenery.

Whether you've got full days of down time on holiday or are just trying to while away the hours before another workday, Hoi An is not lacking in good reading material. Randy's Book Xchange on Cam Nam is just the spot to fill your ebook reader with a selection of thousands of titles or to stock up on some of this American expat's diverse assortment of used paperback books for sale or trade. There is nothing like the soft, musty smell of a well-loved book coupled with a good hard rain to take your mind off the rising flood waters.

And where is that perfect spot to curl up with some new literature? The beach, of course! Sure, it seems asinine to traipse out into the muck to go to a place best known for its sunny day activities, but just hear us out for a minute.

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If the sound of the rain on a tin roof has always been your stand by cozy napping/reading background noise in bad weather, wait until you experience the pitter-patter of the rain on a water palm roof as it trickles down and batters the sand below. Down the beaches of An Bang and Cua Dai, there's a slew of pubs and restaurants with lounge chairs and pillowed couches that are more than capable of accommodating the bundled up reader as easily as the bikini clad sort.

Alternatively the old town and surrounds have hundreds of cozy restaurants or cafĂŠs with wireless internet for you to chill out, read or update your Facebook page.

During these dreary months when seeking indoor entertainment is vital, don't underestimate the hidden opportunity to pick up a new skill while avoiding becoming suicidal over the weather. As a town that boasts of such a high concentration of culinary geniuses, there are many classes available in town to help you diversify your own talents in the kitchen. Almost every restaurant offers a class. Lantern making, pottery or other handicrafts workshops are also a possibility. Check out our activities listings for more inspiration!

Since only the least sane among us will be super keen on getting our bugs out with a street or beach run in a downpour, there remain a lot of better options for those who would rather sweat it out in the comfort of a dry room with air-con and HBO. Most of the beach resorts do provide the option for daily or monthly use of their fitness facilities, so you can pump iron in a posh environment without having to wring out your running shoes when you finish. Check out Sunrise Beach Resort and the Victoria at Cua Dai beach for a way to keep the flab down while the sun is on holiday.

Yoga classes with Stephanie at Hoi An Yoga are another way to stay limber and sculpted without getting stuck on a treadmill.

If you're still dead set on sightseeing during the relentless downpours, there is still a chance for you hardy types with rubber suits to check out the beautiful historic old town. As the waters rise, several enterprising locals will appear miraculously to tote you around in their boats through the lowest lying streets that have become inundated. The most recent going rates varied from 100,000-150,000VND.

Shoe Shop 09 & Tuong Cloth Shop: 65-67 Tran Hung Dao Street -

0510 386 3573 - info@shoeshop09.com - www.shoeshop09.com

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Gifts that give twice Reaching Out is a local fair trade social enterprise located in the Old Town of Hoi An. Reaching Out employs physically impaired persons as crafts men and women to produce Vietnamese souvenirs for tourists. The owner of Reaching Out, also physically impaired, decided to empower others like him, and help them integrate into society. The organisation provides the necessary training for the artisans based on their ability and interest. They form the backbone of Reaching Out making Vietnamese gifts for the craft shop as well as their delightful tea house with tranquil courtyard offering traditional Vietnamese teas.

Shop

Learn

Share

Enjoy a cuppa at our silent teahouse, or buy our offering of high quality, handmade, eco-friendly Vietnamese gifts based on fair trade principles to benefit the artisans.

Be part of the experience.

You’re welcome to spend some time with the artisans, and even learn the craft through our workshop sessions.

We’re happy for you to share your expertise: offer product ideas, volunteer, provide vocational training or sponsor a trainee!

CRAFT SHOP

103 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Hoi An TEAHOUSE

131 Tran Phu, Hoi An info@reachingoutvn.com

reachingoutvietnam.com

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Community

The Kianh FOUNDATION A Model for Special Education in Vietnam:

Catherine Besch

At present, a child with disabilities in rural Vietnam has little hope of being integrated into society but the Kianh Foundation (KF) in Hoi An is attempting to change this outlook. Disabled children such as Cuong, a boy whose autism had left him non-verbal, isolated and frustrated, and destroying his parents' home daily, have been given a chance to learn how to speak and communicate their needs, thus drastically reducing behavioural issues. Another student, Trieu, has gone from being unable to walk to now riding a tricycle to school and getting around classes easily with the help of a walker. These children were overlooked by the Vietnamese school system and often by their own parents as being lost causes. The KF has brought hope to such children in Dien Ban.

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KF’s Dien Ban Day Centre for the Development of Children with Special Needs is a school and therapy centre for children with disorders ranging from Autism Spectrum disorders and Down’s Syndrome to physical impairments such as Cerebral Palsy. While KF has been operating since 2000, the centre has only been opened in Dien Ban since April, 2012. With 63 students from the area, it is already becoming a model for special education in Vietnam.

The teachers at KF are often faced with what founder Jackie Wrafter calls "Learned Helplessness". The lack of education among parents to understand their child's disability means that often these same children – who are fully capable of simple tasks such as eating and walking – are never given the opportunity to learn. Education and skills are therefore taught to the children at the school and with some assistance, parents learn how to keep up with these new lessons at home.

In Vietnam, the KF is the lone school with the ability to handle such a broad spectrum of cases. While there are several other schools in the country that take on children with disabilities, they are often specialized for certain disabilities and thus many needy children are excluded. Classes for the 63 children at KF include everything from simple life skills and physiotherapy to increase the child's independence, to being able to teach the typical Vietnamese curriculum to the students with the higher intellectual functioning students who cannot go to regular Vietnamese schools as a result of their physical disabilities. In addition, KF provides the support to the families who have little knowledge of their child's disability and helps to ensure that these children are not merely shoved aside as lost causes in poor, rural areas.

As for the future, the only place to go from here is up. KF’s new school building built in 2012 houses four large classrooms plus a physiotherapy room, offices, and a lunch room, but it's not going to be large enough for long. As communities become more aware of the presence of KF, more families are applying for special education for their children. Being among the hardest hit regions of Agent Orange during the American War, there is no shortage of disabilities in Hoi An related to dioxin poisoning and the Vietnamese Education system simply does not have the resources to cater to children needing extra care. With the support of individual and corporate donors, KF is making lasting changes, not only to the lives of the children they teach, but also in the greater community.

If you wish to contribute or learn more about the organization, please visit their website: http://www.kianh.org.uk/

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Community

ORGANIZATIONS CHIA (Children's Hope In Action)

This local organization focuses on improving the lives of children in Vietnam through providing health care and health education, disability services, sanitation improvements, and housing for those in need. Donations are tax deductible in both Australia and the US. www.childrenshopinaction.org Children's Education Foundation

A registered Australian organization operating in Vietnam, the main focus here is on providing opportunities for a better life to young girls of poor, rural villages who would otherwise not be able to afford an education. childrenseducationfoundation.org.au East Meets West Foundation

This global organization was founded by LeLy Hayslip in the late 1980s after returning to Vietnam after fleeing during the American war, but their mission in Central Vietnam revolves around improving the general infrastructure of the region to provide health care, education, and sanitation to the residents who need it most. They work to end sex trafficking, provide dental care to rural poor, and place infant care equipment in hospitals. eastmeetswest.org Golden Turtle Swim Club

Started by Australian expats in 2009 with a wealth of experience in aquatic centers back home, the Golden Turtle Swim Club's work focuses on training the youngest children skills that will save them from drowning. They operate in local resort pools and train both young children and adult teachers and accept sponsorships to teach students how to swim. goldenturtleswimclub.com Global Village Foundation

Also founded by LeLy Hayslip, GVF is based in Hoi An. They focus on disaster relief, vocational training for the blind, and infrastructure projects for the rural poor.

Smaller projects include building a mobile library for primary school children and setting up dental clinics. globalvillagefoundation.wordpress.com

Global Volunteer Network

As a worldwide organization, GVN has well organized programs for volunteers looking for placements in schools, orphanages, and in centers for the disabled. The placements are in both Da Nang and Hoi An. Applicants must apply through their website. globalvolunteernetwork.org/vietnam Hoi An Foundation

Since 2003, Hoi An Foundation's mission has been to improve health care in Vietnam by concurrently providing health care to the needy while also running capacity-building projects to improve the ability of the local hospitals to care for their patients. Medically trained volunteers welcomed. hoianfoundation.org Kianh Foundation

Beginning with a mission to improve the living conditions and care of the disabled children in the Hoi An orphanage, the Kianh Foundation has grown over the past 12 years to now be the site of a day center for disabled local children in Dien Ban. They provide physical rehabilitation care and education to children with a wide range of disabilities. kianh.org.uk Lifestart Foundation

Lifestart seeks to help disadvantaged locals become economically self-sufficient by setting them up with vocational training. In addition, they are provided with safe housing, medical/dental treatment and transportation. Skilled volunteers are welcome. lifestartfoundation.org.au Swim Vietnam

This quickly growing charity is focused on tackling the number one cause of death of children in Vietnam: drowning.

They provide swimming classes for schoolchildren and have an extensive training program for new swim teachers. Swim Vietnam accepts volunteers for a wide variety of positions. swimvietnam.com

LISTING Vietnam Animal Welfare Organisation

A newcomer on the charity scene in Hoi An, VAWO is quickly making progress with the building of a new animal shelter and welcomes volunteers for long term stays, preferably those with animal care or veterinary experience. They focus on animal welfare education, spay/neuter/ vaccination programs, veterinary capacity building, and rescue/adoption. vnanimalwelfare.org

RESTAURANTS / RETAIL Blue Dragon

This Australian organization focuses on at-risk youth in Vietnam who may be victims of human trafficking or be living in squalor and unable to attend school. They provide them with housing, an education, and often vocational training. The restaurant by the same name on Bach Dang in the old quarter is not run by the organization, but donates a portion of its proceeds to the organization.

46 Bach Dang St, bluedragon.org Bread of Life

Pizzas and an extensive selection of Western comfort food would be enough to draw in the customers here, but with the restaurant's mission to employ deaf staff, this is a meal you can truly feel good about. The bakery and breakfasts alone make it an expat staple.

4 Dong Da St, Danang, breadoflifedanang.com Lifestart Foundation Shop

Buy original gifts from the Lifestart Foundation and help fund their philanthropic work. Besides their art/lantern making workshops, they also sell unique gifts including handmade woollen sock toys, button rings and many other locallyinspired handicrafts.

77 Phan Chu Trinh St, www.lifestartfoundation.org.au Reaching Out Fair Trade Store & Workshop

Beautiful handcrafted gifts abound at this Fair Trade outlet in Hoi An. Lacquer ware, bedding, jewellery, table runners, ceramics, bags and clothes are some of

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the various and unique items on sale here – and at fixed prices. The artisans have different abilities and are all paid a fair wage with proper benefits. You are welcome to check out their interactive workshop at the back.

103 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, www.reachingoutvietnam.com Reaching Out Tea House

Newly opened in the Spring of 2013, Reaching Out has shown Hoi An what a teahouse should be. This peaceful establishment in the old town is staffed by the deaf and provides a tranquil environment for its customers seeking to escape the bustle of old town.

131 Tran Phu St, reachingoutvietnam.com Seedlings

This restaurant utilizes the shared vision of the KOTO Foundation and Laguna Lang Co to provide training opportunities to marginalized youths, giving them the life skills to create successful careers. The restaurant supports the last 6 months of KOTO’s 2 year food and beverage training programme.

41 Nguyen Phuc Chu St, seedlings-hoian@lagunalangco.com STREETS International

Disadvantaged youth are trained here to work in the restaurant industry through an 18 month program. When they complete the program, they are provided with vocational support. The beautiful restaurant on Le Loi supports this innovative social enterprise and provides a location for training their students.

17 Le Loi St, streetsinternational.org

TRAVEL I All-in return fare on business class from VND Million

18.1 Singapore

Fare quoted are for return trip on Business Class per person for flight originating out of Da Nang. sociated taxes and surcharges only. Fare quoted are subject to change due to currency fluctuation 3562708 from 15 September to 15 October 2013 for travel between 1 October to 31 December to seat availability. Other terms and conditions apply.

IN STYLE All-in return fare on business class from VND Million

12.1 Siem Reap

Fares are exclusive for 2-to- go passengers travelling. All advertised fares are inclusive of asand exclude service fee. Bookings are to be made online via silkair.com or call us at 84-511 2013. One way fare is applied. Change of flight and date are permited without charges. Subject

Come relax in our little corner of the world – The Island – on the An Hoi islet facing Hoi An’s old town. Enjoy the views of the heritage buildings from a beautifully, shaded garden courtyard, far from the hustle and bustle. Italian coffee creations, inventive cocktails, freshly made juices, smoothies and more will refresh you to your core. Not to mention our menu of Vietnamese cuisine – traditional meals and varieties of dishes that will make your mouth water. Try one of our 10 types of spring rolls. Or different versions of the Hoi An crispy pancake. Or let our chef grill one of our BBQ items to order in an al fresco environment. There is no better place to relax and satiate your mind and belly at the same time!

the ISLAND RESTAURANT

Traditional

cuisine

from everyday

Vietnamese life

Dong Hiep, An Hoi Islet, Hoi An - Tel: 0510. 3 91 95 99

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First Hoi An ONS of IMPRESSI

A N E WB I E ’S

perspective Alastair Craig

Every issue Live Hoi An will choose a person who has just moved to our heritage town to contribute an article about their initial experiences and feelings about living here. Alastair Craig, a writer from Brisbane, Australia, recently moved to Hoi An with his French wife AnneGaelle, an accountant and travel/food lover.

As a proud member of Team Winter, I’ve never been entirely down with the concepts of sun or sweating. I wear shorts about twice a year. Listen closely, and you can hear my freckled white skin sizzling. Which makes it all the more dizzyingly, brilliantly, hilariously bizarre that after just 2 weeks, this strange, scorching, beautiful city feels like home.

Weirder things have happened. My equally sun-shy, even-whiter sister moved to Hoi An to “be a starving artist for three months”. Two years later, she’s still here: a teacher, tanned, in love, and sighing contentedly at her

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life approximately every twentynine seconds. My wife and I, both feeling trapped on the wrong career paths in Australia, could not resist a similar existential detox.

I won’t pretend the transition was easy for us; that the culture shock wasn’t severe; that a sense of ennui, of displacement, of what-theheck-am-I-doing-with-my-life, did not creep in and gnaw at the edge of the novelty. But little by little, we waded through the awkward middle ground between tourists and locals.

After the liberating step of finding an apartment, other pieces began locking into place. Soon we were effortlessly cycling through traffic that once seemed impenetrable; haggling with something loosely resembling confidence; forming strong opinions on bánh mi vendors; greeting passing rats as old friends. Every moment, however trivial, became a tiny, important triumph.

The physics of time feel fundamentally different here; more fluid. Back home, I always craved more opportunity for reading, writing and creative projects. But for a minimally-employed expat, the brain is left twiddling its cerebral thumbs, unsure what to do with the excess hours. It’s surprisingly tough, requiring either militaristic task management or a willingness to sleepily sit back and let life just happen, which isn’t really possible at home – only at the beach with a fruit juice in hand.

Luckily, that’s only a bike ride away.

More important steps still lie ahead. Finding jobs and routines. Becoming a functional part the community; not just foreigners selectively picking and choosing second world offerings. Learning and inevitably messing up basic phrases. It’s an ongoing process, but it gets easier with every day, every interaction, every educational mistake.

If I have any advice to offer newcomers (as a grizzled veteran of 2 weeks), it is this: you are not alone.

The city attracts some of nature’s most bubbly, colourful, immediately likeable people. Follow expat Facebook groups, attend a couple of functions, and you’ll quickly get warm welcome to this little world and its offerings. Will we feel ready to leave at the end of 3 months? I have no idea. But I do know it’s both interesting and surreal here, and right now, that’s a great sign of a life being properly lived.

Almost every day, the same clothes merchant will corner us on her bicycle with the same sales line: “Hello? Where you from?”

Now we have a proper answer: “We live here.”

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Catherine Besch

The Vietnamese

BASKET

B AT A new angle on fishing

The first time I visited a beach in Vietnam, I was confounded by the sight of numerous large baskets dotting the shoreline. Certainly, I thought, these were too large for carrying produce and yet they also appeared too small to fare the waters – although it turned out they are designed exactly for that; in fact for many years they were the most common of Vietnamese fishing boats.

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Since I rarely wake early enough to see these light crafts embark, the purpose of them eluded me for ages. When I finally forced myself out of bed before sunrise and headed to the beach to watch these big baskets – or Thung Chai in Vietnamese – launch into the sea loaded with nets, I was still baffled as to why anyone would choose such an awkward-shaped boat to paddle around in search of a day's catch. I was intrigued and seduced by the challenge of navigation in open water in this miniature, dinghysized fishing boat and determined to prove myself as a pilot of one.

During my search for some answers about these giant floating baskets, I was introduced to Tran Tu, a lifelong resident of the island village Cam Thanh who recently retired from the basket boat making business. Tran Tu's life as a boat maker spans over half a century and while it hasn’t made him a wealthy man, it certainly is a profession he is proud to have been a part of. Unfortunately the skills stop with him within the family.

Tran Tu was taught by his uncle, another long-time boat maker, but none of his four children will carry on the trade. As both his sons sat with us in the small shack next to the house where their mother sells vegetables, drinks and cigarettes, they scoffed at the idea of continuing their father's work. "Now," Tu says with some dismay, "basket boats are being made for tourists on Cam Thanh, not for real fisherman." The majority of basket boat fishermen live in the beach village of An Bang where tourism has yet to wipe out the traditional life of the village fisherman. As an obviously strong advocate of the use of basket boats, I had to ask Tu: "What's with the circular shape?" He says it is because they are light and convenient to move from the water to your house, plus, being such a simple shape and structure, one can be made cheaply and easily and bought for a mere 2.5 to 3 million VND.

While neighbors and visitors came and went, Tu happily explained the process of making basket boats. This 1 to 2 week process begins with building the frame, which is made from bamboo brought down from the mountains, and weaving the bottom of the basket as tight as possible.

At the point where it is only a bamboo basket, it then needs to be slathered in water buffalo dung. Yes, you read that right: the boat is covered in poop. Once that has dried, there are two more layers of waterproofing chemicals that hold in the manure and keep the bamboo dry. While a well-made basket boat can last up to a decade, this sealing process will need to be repeated at least once during the year to keep the boat afloat.

It may also answer that question you had about an off-putting odour emanating from the local beach bar stools (correct, this would also be water buffalo excrement).

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In order to get a ride in one of the basket boats, my translator, Kiet, and I found Phan Mot, a maker of fine bamboo furniture in Cam Thanh and an aspiring basket boat tour guide. Considering myself to be relatively fit, I felt that I surely must have the strength and stamina to proficiently steer a basket boat. What I was unaware of prior to embarking, was that I completely lack the coordination and dexterity required to pull off the figure eight motion that propels the boat forward. On flat, calm water, it took nearly 10 minutes for me to work out getting anywhere other than around and around rapidly. Nausea and dizziness were my main motivation to buck up and learn quickly and eventually I figured out how to go forward

without falling out of the boat or making my passenger vomit. In the process I managed to work up a good sweat and pull a muscle in my lower back, but forward we went, my ego in check.

And yet the still waters of Cam Thanh's tributary did not satisfy me. I sought the real challenge of the sea. To this end, Kiet and I were able to find Dinh Lat, 59, a resident of An Bang village and a true expert in the ways of basket boat fishing. His scarred and swollen fingers told a tale of long days at sea, pulling in a catch that these days can bring him 300,000500,000VND per day if the conditions are right. From 6-8am, the basket boats drop their nets not far off the shore of An Bang, but from April to May, his hours are much longer. Squid fishing happens only at night and

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the boats must stay out from sunset to sunrise if they are to take full advantage of the season.

As the expert on basket boat fishing, I had to ask Lat if he thought I'd be good at it while I flexed my biceps and tried to prove my athletic prowess. With a hearty chuckle and a quick once over of my tiny, stringy muscles, he said, yes, I might do well at it. That's all the endorsement I needed. At 8am the next morning, we met up with his friend Dinh Van Thuong who was to show me how the real pros get their catch out on the open seas and to hand the oar over to my now humbled arms.

From the looks of my basket boat captain that morning with his broad smile and ultra-fit, yet slight physique, my morning cruise was going to be a real chance to be trained by one of the old timers from An Bang.

Thuong, a 62 year old with the caramel tanned skin of a 50 year old, had a significantly larger and sturdier basket boat than my river boat from the previous day. It was also much better outfitted for the job of sea fishing with its 500 meters of net folded up in the bottom. While the river boat weighed 60 kilos, this sea boat weighed in at around 100kg and took three men to drag out to sea. Although the sea seemed calm with only a slight roll at this time of the morning, I figured I was likely headed for more back pain once the oar was passed to me. This big dog was going to take some work to get around.

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Once out on the sea, I was able to get a better idea about Thuong's work and the lifestyle of an An Bang fisherman. Since he was fishing from the age of 15 and owned a boat since he was 20, I asked him if he had ever considered doing any other job. "Not with this money from fishing being so good," he said with a laugh. Thuong pulled in an average daily wage similar to Lat's, but his hours went from 5pm to 6am every day throughout the year as long as the wind was not too high. In the mornings, he sells his catch to the buyers on the beach who then sell to the restaurants.

Once we got out far enough to avoid the breakers on the shore, both Kiet and I had a try at the oar after carefully observing Thuong's technique which clearly differed from the river boat's figure eight rowing method. In addition to the new method to master, we both found that we had to get control of our stomachs' tossing and turning with the rolling tide. Having never been seasick a day in my life, I found that this was an unwelcome addition to my basket boat training. Neither of us managed to toss our proverbial cookies at the same time, but I'd be lying if I said it wasn't a possibility.

At the end of the short tour of the shore to drop a few nets, my stomach and I were solid in our conviction that I had not missed my calling as

37

a basket boat captain. However, it seemed from speaking with the fisherman that they truly had fallen into a career that suited them. When asked if he ever got lonely at sea, Thuong quickly replied that the fisherman, though not working directly next to one another, often stayed in contact by cell phone. He was always in good company. The fishermen are a close community, not economic rivals. This was a man who enjoyed his 40 years on the An Bang coast and probably never had the need to toss his cookies aboard his basket boat, a fact for which I am truly jealous.

For those who would like to have their own try at being a basket boat captain, there are tours available including Hoi An Eco-tours that will provide you with hotel pickup, snacks, and your chance to test your own figure eight rowing skills at Cam Thanh (regardless of the season).

The Vietnamese BASKET

B AT

38

Amy Morison

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T

here is something magical, ethereal even, about the realm of precious stones and minerals. Rare and brilliant jewels have been treasured by humans since the beginning of written history – and lapidaries, or artisans of fine gemstones, have been long-esteemed for their ability to source and carve such special stones into extraordinary sculptures or objet d’art. Fortunately for those of us living or visiting Hoi An, we now have the opportunity to view some remarkable examples of mineral art at the recently opened GAM (Gemstone Arm Museum).

Thanks to the combined efforts of collector and director Dzung Duong, his daughter, jewellery artist Nga Duong, and her husband Marco Fantini, an architect and artist also, the GAM is poised to be one of Hoi An’s more precious attractions.

The GAM is a private museum that houses a collection of unique stones all originating from Vietnam. The idea to create the museum was borne out of Nga and her father’s shared passion for gemstones and their desire to share his collection with others.

“The fact is that few people know that Vietnam is home to many beautiful, high-quality precious stones. The gemstone sculpture section at GAM is really special, not just because of the aesthetic value of the stones but because of the techniques applied by the sculptors during the carving process. Also, each of the pieces has a spiritual meaning,” explained Nga. “In fact, the principle theme we have applied to the collection is religious iconography – Buddhism, Christianity, Hinduism (interpreted through Cham Culture in Vietnam) and Animism.

For my father, the entire culture of a place and its history is based on a form of spirituality.”

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Unlike a typical museum, where the atmosphere may be rather solemn and stuffy (the term ‘museum fatigue’ comes to mind), GAM is more of a designer house that features a mineral exhibition in addition to a jewellery boutique and café/ wine bar. While it has a historic veneer – a Hoi An colonial building of yellow and cream hue – the inside wall panelling is made from timber, giving it a more modern, elegant feel. The sculptures, which are mounted from both the wall and platforms under well-positioned spotlights, radiate in the space. As does the jewellery, which glistens gorgeously against the coppice walls in glass-protected display cabinets. The interior design and furnishing is the work of Nga’s husband Marco. According to Nga, the idea to use the space the way they did was always the plan, feeling it should be an extension of her father’s personal home in Hanoi.

“Until now the collection was in our house in Hanoi and the GAM museum is the image of this house. In this sense, it is a personal and intimate place – capturing the traditional feeling of Vietnamese hospitality,” she said. “The jewellery boutique is a business that is separate from the mineral exhibition but is also an extension of the concept as my designs capture the original beauty of the stones. While these pieces are for sale, my first intention has and always will be to express myself; giving maximum respect to the gemstones. I consider myself an artist and all the jewels of my collection can be appreciated as pieces of art. Everybody can enjoy the boutique as an art exhibition.”

In fact, this is what the trio had dreamt of – to create a multicentre of culture, where people can come to appreciate the artistic merit of gemstones and share their thoughts over a coffee or glass of wine. This certainly differentiates it from other museums. They also felt Hoi An was the perfect setting, with its architectural aesthetic and historic feel. Hoi An also has an artistic nature that works well with the concept of GAM.

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Moreover, Nga would like to see her father’s collection and his knowledge shared on an international platform – and since Hoi An town is on the tourist map, the GAM is visible to international visitors.

For Nga, the GAM is also a work of personal passion. Having grown up with beautiful gems and minerals, it is in her very nature to work with them. Nga hails from Hanoi originally but moved to Milan when she was 20 years old to study jewellery design at the European Institute of Design (Istituto Europeo di Design – IED). In Italy she established herself as an artist, producing and selling creations that used alternative, recycled materials – often materials people would never associate ornaments, but had a hidden beauty. Her brand up until 2 years ago was called ‘NGA’s’ but since returning to Vietnam and working with her father, she has a created a new jewellery brand, DUONG, which comprises designs made with precious stones. As with her original designs in Italy, Nga prefers the imperfect gems or milky gemstones to the flawless ones.

“I appreciate the perfect gems but they are too good to be true; they are like supermodels. I prefer turning a not-so-perfect gem into something special with my design. The stone that I particularly like is Spinel, which appears in all ranges of colours and is as beautiful as rubies or sapphires.

In Vietnam, we can find very good quality Spinel.”

GAM is undoubtedly a project of passion and is truly an exceptional new addition to the Hoi An scene. Besides the showcase halls for minerals and jewellery, the courtyard café and wine bar is an idyllic place to unwind and soak up the ambiance. Vines hang down elegantly over this charming courtyard setting, which also features a mineral waterwall (a fountain built into a wall of minerals), a historic well and Marco’s inventive furnishings – the movable, lilypad-like wooden drink tables that extend out from the well are very cool.

All the features within the GAM – the exhibition space, boutique, café and bar – encapsulate, as Nga says, “the same spirit of preciousness”. We believe visitors will feel this same ‘spirit’ when they walk through the GAM entrance.

GAM is located on 130 Nguyen Thai Hoc St. Phone +84 (0) 510 393 8468

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Counting Your Phil Mellifont

N

ot long after you arrive in Vietnam, you quickly notice the occasional street pedlar. Ha! If only they were occasional! It can be fairly annoying considering you’ve worked all year, saved your dough, booked the ticket and have been anticipating your Vietnam experience for months. All you want to do is relax, explore and enjoy that local coffee or take in the view of the river, but it seems that every friendly face has an ulterior motive – something to sell.

The most charming of the bunch are the young girls that sell beads and postcards. They’re sweet and chatty, and fun to talk to… but after living in Hoi An for almost 9 years now, one of my favourite street pedlars is ‘The Fan Man’.

He’s missing a leg, is quite blind, and he sells fans. His English is restricted to “Help me, buy Fan”… and it’s not uncommon to see tourists glance away uncomfortably when he hobbles his way toward them with his milky eyes, tapping his stick around obstacles such as parked bicycles while they sip coffee at a café.

There are dozens of charities working around Hoi An, and tourists are often quite generous in donating to organisations, but sometimes they appear unsure what to do when confronted by an actual walking and talking disabled person.

One afternoon I was enjoying a lunch at an outside table at the Morning Glory restaurant, and I observed the Fan Man announcing “Help

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Blessings:

I’M A FAN

me, buy fan” right outside.

A number of tourists came past and swerved to avoid him, then noticed the fair trade shop (that employs disabled people) and went inside to go shopping there. I found it interesting that people were willing to help disabled at a store, but found it a little confronting to help a disabled person on the street. Of course only a percentage goes to the disabled in the store, but 100% of what you give in the street goes to the disabled person!

So here are some of the things I’ve come to notice living in Hoi An for the past years: • The Vietnamese have no social security system, so quite often poor pedlars will use the term ‘help me’, because they literally do need help. Old ladies will sell toothpicks and everyday items, and Vietnamese will buy these, even when they have plenty of toothpicks and don’t need any more – just to ‘help’ the old woman. Our Western logic will work along the lines of “I either do or I don’t need toothpicks”, whereas the Vietnamese will buy them regardless; the logic being that the poor woman only has toothpicks to sell and to support herself she must sell them. Just as the one-legged blind man has only fans to sell.

• In the West we try to include the disabled in the workforce and in social and sporting events, whereas in Vietnam they are already integrated – you see them in the street everyday. They are part of the community and are always out-and-about. When you hear the Fan Man announcing “Help me, buy fan” – that’s the sound of him working for a living.

• Small amounts of money are appreciated. A gift of 10,000 dong (50 cents) is meaningful – especially if you’re taking a photo of that woman in

44

the conical hat carrying the heavy baskets, likewise a fan for the equivalent of a few dollars from the Fan Man is a bargain.

I am unsure of the circumstances where the Fan Man lost his limb, and how he became blind, what I do know is that in my life I have been much more fortunate than he, as I was born into a loving family, in a peaceful English speaking country, where I enjoyed a good education and comprehensive health benefits. I worked hard, had a rewarding career and retired early in Vietnam. But did I do anything to actually deserve these opportunities afforded me?

Consequently, every week or two I buy a fan from ‘The Fan Man’. I don’t need the fans, in fact I give them away to people, but as he only asks 40,000VND per fan, I pay him 50,000 VND and try to buy one every 2 weeks or so. He’s doing his best to work for a living, and I’m one of his regular customers

45

who in no way needs his product but I buy one anyhow, as living here I’ve learned what ‘Help me, buy fan’ really means.

So, as part of your Vietnam holiday, in-between getting exasperated at the persistent street pedlars (who can be quite annoying), and after you’ve chatted to the charming postcard girls, and you’ve enjoyed delicious food and ‘shopped till you dropped’, if you do see some poor disabled person doing their best on the street to sell a simple article such as a souvenir, you might want to consider buying one for this reason. You’ll never miss those few dollars and what they are selling might make an authentic gift for someone at home.

Of course, I’m not saying that every person who approaches you asking for ‘help’ is deserving of your Western dollar. I also highly recommend supporting the Fair Trade, NGO and charitable organizations that legitimately help thousands of people in the Hoi An vicinity (please see the section at the front of the Live Hoi An magazine with a list of organizations that help ‘giveback’ to the community). I’m just saying that taking a cynical approach to disabled or elderly street vendors isn’t exactly healthy. They do suffer real hardship and you can make a difference in alleviating some of that daily struggle. After all, it is also the season of giving!

Phil Mellifont is an Australian who lives in Hoi An and is married to Ms Mung, owner of Lotus Jewellery at 82 Tran Phu and 53A Le Loi streets.

www.lotusjewellery-hoian.com

While Hoi An is renowned for its arts and crafts, the explosion of tourism over the last decade has also seen a rise in stores selling items almost identical from one place to the next. Finding a store that sells unique handmade items of local design and creation is not easy. Lotus Jewellery is one such establishment – it literally is a gem of a store where customers are met with a treasure trove of fine, locally-made, hand-crafted jewellery and unique pieces collected from across Asia.

Founded and owned by Ms NguyễnThị Mẫn (call her Ms Mung), Lotus Jewellery is located beside the Museum of Trade Ceramics at 82 Tran Phu street in the old quarter. Using only pure silver and genuine Asian jewels, freshwater pearls and shells, the collections are varied but mostly draw on ethnic or natural inspirations.

While Ms Mung is meticulous about the design and crafting of each piece, the atmosphere at the shop is relaxed and inviting. For customers, it is often a refreshing experience to walk into one of the Lotus shops and not have to worry about haggling or negotiating on price. The prices are fixed and fair. Also, the brand is a recognized and trusted one, known for its consistency in providing high quality products.

Pop into her ‘jewel’ of a store during your stay – it is by far the most beautiful jewellery shop in all of Hoi An. Two locations: 82 Tran Phu & 53A Le Loi Hoi An, Vietnam - Tel: +84 0510 3917 889

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51

Hoi an Classic

by Etienne Bossot

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53

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Hoi an

Classic

Etienne Bossot has been living in Hoi An for 6 years and runs both the acclaimed Hoi An Photo Tour and the Hoi An Fine Art Gallery. His gallery, which was opened in May this year, is located in the former French quarter of the old town and features print versions of his work available for purchase. Please see his website www.hoianphoto.com or visit the gallery at 42 Phan Boi Chau St.

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GREEN MANGO

FINE ASIAN DINING

Enjoy the exquisite creations of Chef Hai, whose established Green Mango restaurants have tantalized the senses of customers from Cat Ba to Hanoi and Hoi An! Grapes encrusted in goat’s cheese and cashew nuts, blackened seabass, green tea smoked duck and duck pho are but a few of Hai’s mouthwatering dishes.

• Green Mango offer the happiest of happy hours! Every day from 12 (noon) to 7pm – buy one get one free on all drinks except wines.

• Try Hai’s new cooking class! Intimate cooking classes with the chef/owner himself including market tours and a selection of 5 dishes from Hai’s unique menu for only 520,000VND per person.

• Tapas menu all day – sensational nibbles priced very reasonably (between 35,000 to 60,000VND) featuring Vietnamese and Western favourites with a twist – many vegetarian options too.

• Lavazza coffee, the widest selection of top shelf liqueurs in Hoi An and a peerless wine, beer and cocktail list!

Green Mango: 54 Nguyen Thai Hoc St., Hoi An (84.510) 3929 918 | www.greenmango.vn

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To The Intercontinental Sun Peninsula Resort

HOANG SA

EAST SEA

11

Th uo ng Kie t

4

Tran Hung Dao

2

Cua Dai

3

5 6

Nhi Trung

Phan Chau Trinh

Central Market Nguyen Thai Hoc

7

8

Sea

Hai Ba Trung

Ly

Thai Phien

9 1

10

Thu Bon River

PUTTING THE CHARM BACK IN GOURMET

T

he majestic GODA restaurant has already created a stunning landmark in Hoi An – poised betwixt the Cua Dai beach and the old town, it is a stellar example of modern Asiatic architecture. And with GM Frederick van Ravensteyn now at the helm, along with the dynamic Chef Pham, it won’t be long until GODA takes its rightful position among the foremost of fine dining venues in Hoi An. Most importantly, GODA’s menu is all encompassing. Take a group of 20 fussy diners and they can choose from Vietnamese, French, Japanese, Italian, German or Californian with choices for vegetarians, vegans and others on restricted diets. There is literally something for everyone and the standard for quality has been set high. However, if all this choice is leaving you bamboozled, we recommend one of GODA’s gourmet set menus which have been exquisitely picked so that each course complements the charmingly old fashioned ‘ladie’s menu’ (this menu comes unpriced allowing the ladies to go wild over the menu without considering the cost – and gentlemen needn’t worry either as GODA’s prices sit quite comfortably with the wallet, such as imported steak tenderloin in peppercorn sauce coming in at 220,000VND and set menus starting at as little as 220,000VND).

For more information on GODA’s services and to peruse the tempting GODA menu, they have a new website (www.godahoian. com) filled with mouthwatering photos – just in case you need any more persuading!

TO HOI AN SILK VILLAGE

(see An Bang Map for exact location)

Dining & Bars 4. Ancient Faifo 5. Al Fresco’s

Activities 2 . Blue Coral Diving 3 . Lifestart Foundation Tours

Pedestrian & Cyclist Only at certain times of the day.

Accommodation 1. Anantara Hoi An Resort

Ancient Well

Historical Places Of Interest

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

13.

14.

15.

16.

17.

18.

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Before & Now Reaching Out Tea Rooms Cargo Club Restaurant Tam Tam Cafe Fusion Lounge Green Chili Green Mango Hai Café The Island Café Sakura Restaurant Lantern Town Restaurant Little Menu Restaurant Mermaid

Health and Wellness 27. Palmarosa 28. Tuan Boy

19. Morning Glory 20. STREETS 21. Sleepy Gecko Chillout Bar 22. White Marble 23. Samovar Russian Restaurant 24. 3 Dragons 25. Seedlings Restaurant 26. Market Restaurant 44. GAM café and wine bar Shopping 29. the O collective 30. Phoung Dong Optical 31. avAna & Original Chain of Life 32. Lana Allure 33. Hot Chili 34. Long Vy Lanterns 35-36. Lotus Jewellery 37. Metiseko 38-39. Papaya Original T-Shirts 40. Reaching Out 41. Tuong Clothes & Shoe Shop 09 42. Jade Rabbit Emporium

43. Mister T Mini Mart 44. duong Jewelry & Objects 45. Water Lily Jewellery 46-47-48. Yaly 49. Randy’s Book X Change 50. Sparkling Souvenir Shop 51. Sun Tailors 52. Viet Quoc Optical Shuttle Services 53. Montgomerie Links Golf 54. Sunrise Hoi An Beach Resort Pullman Da Nang Resort Vinpearl Luxury Resort Museums 44. GAM Gemstones Art Museum

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23

54

25

54

29

3

4

50

OLD MARKET

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51

63

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www.hoiandesign.com

“Contemporary, elegant design - with comfort in mind.”

+84 (0)510 3 911 611

info@hoiandesign.com

the simple wearables of avAna- which is the catchy anagram of anna and ava’s name - have a definitif Hoi An feel and importantly they have partnered with local tailors, shoe & craftmen to create their products.

avAna designs are either entirely or partially handmade in/around Hoi An .

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57, le loi

NEW collection

handpainted silk, cotton scarves woven by the central highlands brocade weavers

and international designers

To Đà Nẵng

LẠC

LONG

4 3

Cầu An Bàng An Bàng Bridge

QUÂN

2

To Cửa Đại Be

Japanese Tomb

Tra Que Vegetable Planting Village

1

ach

1. La Plage 2. Luna d’Autunno 3. Hai Ka 4. Soul Kitchen 5. Le Banyan 6. Hoi An Silk Village

Dining/Entertainment index

AN BANG

MAP

Japanese Tomb

5

66

G

NGUYỄN

PHẠM VĂN ĐỒNG

PHẠM NGỌC THẠCH

LƯU TR ỌNG LƯ

G

VIÊN

LAN

CHẾ

LÊ ĐÌNH DƯƠN

TÔN

PHONG

HỒNG

TẤT

LÊ

NGÔ

VĂN

THÀNH

SĨ

HƯU

NGUYỄN BỈNH KHIÊM

LIÊN

THẮNG

CAO BÁ QUÁT

ĐỨC

ĐOÀN THỊ ĐIỂM

NGUYỄN TUÂN

LÊ

CHU

VĂN

VĂN

HƯU

AN

ÔNG

To Đà Nẵng

PARK AND STATUE OF NGUYEN DUY HIEU

Chúc Thánh

LÃN

DƯ

TRƯ BÀ HAI

Phước Lâm

PHIẾN

BÁ

PHAN

LÊ

THƯỢNG

Cotec Plaza

NGUYỄN

HIỂU HC LÝ

TRỨ

Church

Thái Bình Dươ ng Hopital

THÁI

CÔNG

ĐINH TIÊN HOÀNG

Tan An Market

PHAN

VĂN

TRẦN

PHÙNG ĐÌNH

ĐÌN YỄN NGU

LÝ

TỘ TRƯỜNG

To Hội An Old Town

PHIÊN

STADIUM

THƯỜNG

NGUYỄN

HẢI

THÁI

KIỆT

TỔ

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Cooking School & Restaurant

Villa

Functions

RED BRIDGE Cooking School – offers both half day and deluxe day tours with market walk, Tra Que organic village visit, boat trip & hands-on-cooking class.

Restaurant – modern Vietnamese cuisine set on the beautiful Thu Bon River.

Functions – tailored packages for weddings, groups and incentives.

Villa – luxurious accommodation for 7 guests including open living and dining area, library, gym, private gardens, and swimming pool.

Find out more www.visithoian.com Thon 4, Cam Thanh, Hoi An, Viet Nam Tel: 0510 3933222, Email: info@visithoian.com

MAP

Rice Paddy Fields & Shrimp Farms

4

5 6 Essence of health

CUA DAI

1. Cua Dai Hotel 2. Green Shoots School 3. The Raw Energy Cafe 4. GODA Restaurant 5. Son Restaurant

10 3

Cua Dai 9 Beach

7

6. Red Bridge Restaurant & Villa 7. Victoria Beach Resort 8. Sunrise Resort 9. LV House of Lan Vo 10. Twist Restaurant

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2

6

5 Sunrise Resort

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COURSES AT MONTGOMERIE LINKS 2013

Basic Skills Lesson Package

The Golf Academy The Golf Academy at Montgomerie Links is spearheaded by Australian PAG Golf Professional Taylor Murphy and is the very first Golf School on the Central Coast of Vietnam. We offer a board range of interesting and comprehensive golf instruction program for all standards of golfer from private classes using video swing analysis to fun and exciting beginner classes. All our training programs have been designed by our PAG Golf Professional to maximize game improvement and enjoyment.

V1 Video Analysis Software As part of our lesson structure we use video and computer technology to visually create greater swing motion awareness for our students, whilst providing them with essential golf swing keys that are relative to their ball flight and balance in their golf swings. By using this software the student receives instant feedback through visualization, which is the key to improvement. Our Academy offers all golfers on the Central Coast of Vietnam their first opportunity to take advantage of video analysis software.

Lesson Packages Individual Lesson Improve any aspect of your game with a 1 hour individual lesson. Take advantage of the latest V1 swing analysis system , see your swing compared with the top players in the word . The content of the lesson is at the student’ s request.

This is a course of 5 lessons, during which all basic aspects of golf will be covered from putting, chipping and pitching to the full swing. An ideal introduction to the game of golf and all the different parts of the game.

On-course playing lesson An on course 18 hole lesson that covers basic technique, awkward lies, course management, rules and etiquette.

Ladies’ Clinic Held every Friday morning, ladies arrive at 10:00 am and have a complimentary coffee in the Links Cafe followed by a one hour lesson at the driving range with our PGA instructor. The MLV shuttle bus run a complimentary service to coincide with this clinic that leaves from Indochina Riverside Towers at 9:30 am.

Children’s Lessons To be held on Saturday morning 10:00 am~11:00 am. A course of lessons will run for 6 weeks of the game including etiquette and rules. Age 5 - 17.

Golf Lesson Floating Card - - - -

Purchase 20 private Golf Lessons.

Improve your own game.

No restrictions on who can use the card.

Introduce friends or clients to the game of golf.

Monthly Friday BBQ Unwind with us on the first Friday of the month with our BBQ buffet! The deal includes unlimited golf balls for the driving range, unlimited San Miguel draft beer and a fine selection of BBQ meats and salads from 6-8pm every Friday for 299,000VND.

Email: reservations@montgomerielinks.com - Phone: +84 (510) 3 941 942 Address: Dien Ngoc Commune, Dien Ban District, Quang Nam Province, Vietnam

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Website: www.montgomerielinks.com - Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/montgomerielinks Twitters: http://twitter.com/montylinksgolf or http://twitter.com/sangonmonty

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Activities Good Morning Hoi An!

Cycling with the ‘Local Man’ Neil Fraser

The lush green rice paddies, winding waterways and stunning rural countryside are all much closer than you would think. With no torturous hill climbs, cycling is the ideal way to experience the incredible scenery surrounding Hoi An and within 15 minutes you have escaped the hustle and bustle.

The old town of Hoi An was already wide awake as we set off at 8am, at first meandering through secret alleyways to the market which was already in full swing. Characterful vendors traded their daily wares of freshly caught fish, produce, herbs and live chickens as the morning street food sellers ladled out bowls of aromatic pho and lively locals sat streetside, gossiping over their morning coffee.

Cycling along the bank of the Thu Bon River, the noise levels decreased to an almost eerie quiet with only the sound of the local boats to accompany us. Our guide, Thinh (a.k.a. Local Man or Tin Tin) led the way as we escaped into the countryside of Cam Thanh with its huge cast of fascinating characters going about their daily lives. A chance encounter with a local guy selling Betel Nuts for wedding parties and coffee in a family home, highlighted the benefit of having a great local guide.

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Cam Thanh has a tranquil islandlike feel to it with winding country tracks snaking through the waterways amongst the water coconut palms where the Viet Cong used to hide out during the war. The paths are lined with the drying palms that are used locally to make roofs and water buffalo loafing around in the shallows.

On one of the frequent pit stops to re-fuel, we met a local family and jumped into a traditional bamboo basket boat. Thinh made the rowing look easy, however there is a real knack to it as we found out when we tried, even out on the calm waters with overhanging palms almost forming tunnels that offered some welcome shade.

We looped back into Hoi An passing by a plethora of prawn farms and through Tra Que Herb And Vegetable Village. The local herbs and vegetables grown here adorn the local markets and make a very welcome appearance in your bowl at nearby restaurants and street food vendors.

Thinh is an avid cyclist and has chosen the renowned brand ‘Specialized Bikes’ as his choice of vehicle for the tours and planned the cycle routes carefully, which made the 20kms I did seem effortless. Thinh’s morning and afternoon tours are available daily and you can choose a barbecue in an idyllic setting to round off the tour. His English and local knowledge is top notch, but what really made this tour memorable was the rapport he had with village characters who welcomed us to take a glimpse in to their daily lives.

The ‘Good Morning Hoi An’ tour cost 480,000VND and the ‘Hoi An Afternoon’ tour is 580,000VND which also includes a home cooked dinner with a local family.

Longer tailor made tours are also available; you can even tackle the Hai Van Pass if you want. Call Thinh directly for bookings or to chat about a tailored tour.

Hoi An Cycling (Local Man Tours) Tel: +84 (0) 919 882 783 Email: info@hoiancycling.com Web: www.hoiancycling.com

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Activities

Blue Coral Diving Center

Join the most experienced dive team in town to explore the wonders of Cham Island.

Full day snorkeling and dive trips include all transportation, equipment, refreshments, instructors and BBQ beach lunch. Overnight camping trips can also be organized. They also have the cheapest rates in town – whether that be for a beginner fun dive or for full PADI qualifications.

77 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Tel: +84 (0) 510 627 9297 Email: sales@divehoian.com Web: www.divehoian.com Danang Golf Club

Danang Golf Club comprises two courses of 36 holes, the first of which – The Dunes – is already complete. Designed by Greg Norman, the DGC has a stunning layout with backdrops of the East Sea and Marble Mountains. It also sports a number of facilities including a driving range and top of the range practice facility (such as swing studios with video analysis), café and clubhouse with private dining room, member’s terrace, restaurant and lounge.

Tel: +84 511 3958 111 Email: info@dananggolfclub.com Web: www.dananggolfclub.com.vn GAM Gemstones Art Museum

This beautiful two-storey colonial building is situated right in the heart of the historic old town, with a unique display of carved minerals and jewellery designs by boutique brand ‘duong’ who uses precious stones as her chief inspiration. The displays are set into elegant wooden wall panels which complement the traditional building colours. At the rear of the museum is an impressive courtyard which serves as a café and cocktail/wine bar. Also designed with stylish wooden furnishings, the courtyard has a mineral waterwall fountain, an ancient well and is dappled with overhanging vines.

It is an especially soothing place to unwind with a drink at the end of the day.

130 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3939468 - www.gam-hoian.com Green Mango Cooking Class

Experience one-on-one cooking with Green Mango chef Hai, whose reputation for fine food has followed him from the North to Hoi An! Don’t expect any Hoi An specialties, but learn five dishes (as well as all their sauces or coatings – everything is taught from scratch) for 520,000VND. The cooking class includes a market tour, discussion time with Hai and an ongoing email relationship if you want to further hone your skills at home.

54 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Tel: +84 510 3929 918 Web: www.greenmango.vn Hai Café Cooking Class

From the same famed owners of Red Bridge, the Hai Café offer an evening cooking class to Hoi An visitors. Learn local favourites in the cooler temperature of the evening, with a garden courtyard as a backdrop. Classes include eating the delicious creations afterwards.

98 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3862 210 Email: info@visithoian.com Web: www.visithoian.com Heaven & Earth

This bicycle tour takes visitors to a part of Hoi An that is never seen by tourists.

Explore the true countryside and discover the charms of the rural village folk. The tour leaders are friendly and their knowledge vast – they offer a truly unique experience, with half day, full day and overnight tours.

57 Ngo Quyen St - Tel: +84 122 9527 365 Web: www.vietnam-bicycle.com Hoi An Photo Tour

Find the best photographic opportunities Hoi An has to offer. Etienne Bossot will take you off the beaten track and upclose and personal with the locals. See the cultural, countryside of Hoi An. Both sunrise and sunset tours are available. Etienne will provide a photo workshop and help you get the right angles and settings for your shots.

Bookings essential.

Tel: +84 905 671 898 Web: www.hoianphototour.com Hoi An Silk Village

Located down the street from Hoi An's town center, the Hoi An Silk Village offers an insight into Hoi An’s 300 year-old silk weaving traditions. During the tour you'll learn about the entire artisanal production of silk from silkworm to dress. We also have a spacious colonial-style restaurant serving up local delights and a high-end silk showroom where we custom tailor garments.

28 Nguyen Tat Thanh St Tel: +84 (0) 5103 921144 Email:sales@hoiansilkvillage.com Web: www.hoiansilkvillage.com Green Bamboo Cooking School

For a real one-on-one introduction to Vietnamese cuisine, Green Bamboo is the best in town. Van’s expertise, English and hospitable nature make her the perfect host.

You cook in her own home kitchen and enjoy your homemade lunch afterwards – family

LISTING style with no rush. Maximum group size is 8 per class people it’s a very reasonable 600,000VND, including all transport, market tour, class, meal and refreshment. Check TripAdvisor to see the fabulous reviews Van has received from previous customers.

Tel: +84 (0) 905 815 600 Email: van@greenbamboo-hoian.com Lifestart Foundation Tour

The half day tour includes the opportunity to make a Hoi An lantern, a one-on-one dialogue with Lifestart Foundation workshop members and a traditional painting class. At the end of your experience you’ll have one small Hoi An lantern and your hand painted notecard to take home and share with friends. All of the money raised goes towards helping local people in difficult situations become self-sufficient.

77 Phan Chau Trinh St Tel: +84 167 355 9447 Web: www.lifestartfoundation.org.

Local Man Cycling Tours

Join Thinh aka ‘Local Man’ or ‘Tin Tin’ for a leisurely cycle around the outskirts of Hoi An, away from the hustle and bustle. Meet local characters that you would not have had the opportunity to do so if you were exploring on your own. See the real countryside, have a go at piloting a basket boat and enjoy upclose experiences with water buffalos and farmers. Using only ‘Specialized Bicycles’, Thinh’s equipment and skills as a guide are second-to-none. You’ll really get a local insight into local life with the ‘Local Man’!

Tel: +84 (0) 919 882 783 Email: info@hoiancycling.com Web: www.hoiancycling.com Long Vy Lantern-Making

Learn the ancient art of lantern making from Hoi An’s most experienced lantern maker! Mr Thoai is a 3rd generation lanterncraftsman and offers workshops (where you get to keep your own lantern) for just $3 per person!

6 Phan Chau Trinh St, Hoi An Tel: +84 (0)510 3606 611

+84 (0)908 664 731 Email: longdenlongvy@gmail.com Web: www.hoianlantern.com.vn Montgomerie Links Golf Course

Tee off on this Colin Montgomerie designed course, with beautiful sweeping views and mountainous surrounds. The challenging 18-hole course is complemented by a driving bay facility, clubhouse, café and pro shop. PGA lessons for beginner, kids and women are available.

Web: www.montgomerielinks.com

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Morning Glory Cooking School

The signature of the Morning Glory restaurant is its ‘street food’ selection and their cooking class will give you a proper introduction into local favourites as well as national cuisines. The classes are designed for those who truly want to grasp the culinary tastes of Vietnam and be able to mimic them on their return home.

106 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 241 555 / 241 556 Fax: +84 510 911 431 Email:gourmet@hoianhospitality.com morningglorycookingschool@gmail.com Reaching Out Workshops

Visit the differently-abled artisans who create the wonderful handicrafts, lacquerware, bedding, jewellery and ceramic plates and tea sets at Fair Trade Reaching Out. From Monday through to Saturday everyone is welcome to watch the artisans in action but Reaching Out also have specialized workshops for those wanting to learn a new craft.

Please check at their shop or contact them for more information.

103 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3910 168 Email: info@reachingoutvietnam.com Web: www.reachingoutvietnam.com Red Bridge Cooking School & Restaurant

Red Bridge is famous for its cooking tours, and operates a half-day morning tour and a deluxe day tour throughout the year, as well as an evening class at their sister restaurant Hai Café. The Red Bridge Restaurant is romantically set on the Hoi An River outside the main part of town in a serene environment that is perfect for dining on your handmade meal. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and for dinner by request and guests get full use of the pool.

Hamlet 4, Cam Thanh Village, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3933 222 Email: info@visithoian.com Web: www.visithoian.com The Last Great Taste of Hoi An Tour

Join Aussie Neville Dean – a pure street food fanatic – for a half day tour of Hoi An’s best street food vendor offerings. See the vendors up close and in action and then head back for the sampling of 30 or so dishes at the Family restaurant on Nguyen Thai Hoc St. A great introduction to authentic local cuisine.

Tel: +84 905 382 783 / +84 121 7621 693 Email: theteacher@tasteofhoian.com Web: www.tasteofhoian.com

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Nightlife

Haven’t been to Moe’s? Doh!

©TripAdvisor

Amy Morison

Named after Homer’s regular drinking hole in The Simpsons, Moe’s Tavern is a fairly new addition to the local nightlife scene and a welcome one at that. While the bar doesn’t have a main landline phone (so pranks calls such as the classic, “Is Mike Rotch there?”) isn’t part of its appeal, Moe’s Tavern offers plenty of alternative entertainment.

Owner and founder, Tony Kaae – a Hoi An resident of 4 years – opened the bar in an effort to give punter’s more to choose from locally. He felt that a place which opened late but was laid back (so you can hold a conversation without shouting and don’t feel overcrowded) was missing. Plus he loves reggae. Throughout the week – with the exception of Saturday’s when a DJ plays dance music – Moe’s Tavern is a reggae bar. A chilled, fun place to hangout over a few drinks.

Fortunately for those visiting in the wet season, Tony has had the foresight to install a whopping 150 inch flatscreen TV (we’d wager this is the biggest in town) with a proper viewing area. With six long bamboo pews in front there is room to seat around 20 people comfortably.

©TripAdvisor

“Throughout the whole year, we’ll be showing movies daily and will print up screening programmes each week for customers to check what’s on,” Tony explained. “We also have a Playstation 3 for the use of guests – so people who want to escape the rain definitely have a few options at Moe’s.”

Besides the giant TV and movie screenings, Moe’s has a pool table and a mixture of board games for customers to choose from. There is a definitively cool vibe in the bar, with its psychedelic wall art, music and friendly staff all contributing to the atmosphere. In fact we’d warrant that it would be as attractive to a young ‘gap year’ crowd as it would with middle-aged folks.

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Importantly, Moe’s drinks list comes highly recommended and is among the least expensive we’ve encountered in the Hoi An – Da Nang region. Tony has taken special care with the menus so that it is clear whether you are drinking a potential hangover-inducing cocktail rendition made with local spirits, or if you’re drinking the ‘real’ stuff.

With prices starting at 40,000VND for standard imported liquors and their mixers (this includes Absolut, Bacardi, Gordon’s, Johnny Walker Red and Smirnoff), customers can keep in good spirits (quite literally) all night without breaking the bank. The slightly more premium spirits are still really reasonable with Bombay Saphhire and Jack Daniel’s only costing 60,000VND with a mixer. If you want to go local, you can, with Vietnamese versions of vodka, gin, rum and whisky with mixers for a mere 35,000VND. Honestly though, you may as well pay the additional 5,000VND for the imported goods!

While beers are standard restaurant prices (local beers are all 25,000VND, imported beers slightly more) the cocktails are excellent value. For a real kickstart to your night we’d recommend the Boston Blue Iced Tea which is made with fully imported spirits including blue curacao, vodka, gin, tequila and rum and priced at 110,000VND. More modestly priced cocktails include the standard Daiquiri and Mojito which are only 60,000VND and also made with imported alcohol. Shooters too well-priced to pass up if you’re in the mood to party (have a crack at the multi-layered ‘Three Wise Men’) ranging from 45,000VND to 80,000VND. To soak up the booze, Tony has partnered up with a local restaurant who makes pizzas, sandwiches and burgers. They operate late into the night, so as long as the bar is still open, you can order food. The tavern opens daily from 12pm until late.

Moe’s Tavern 130 Tran Cao Van St Tel: +84 (0) 12 0541 2530

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SPONSORED ARTICLE

Green Chili Spicing Up Hoi An

S

teaks and burgers off the grill. American and Tex Mex classics. Homemade pastas by a proper Italian-trained chef. Green Chili offers a variety of high-quality dishes to suit all kinds of palates. Founded and managed by husband and wife team Hanh and Jackie, the restaurant offers warm hospitality in addition to excellent home-style and gourmet cooking! Whether you’re seeking comfort food or an exquisite mesh of East and West, Green Chili has a menu to satisfy all appetites.

Green Chili - áťšt Xanh:

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“We treat all our customers as old friends. We have a great menu of Tex Mex, Western, Mediterranean and Vietnamese classics, but are flexible to cater to a specific customer’s taste,” says Jackie.

To match an eclectic and well-executed menu, Green Chili has an extensive cocktail and wine list. Top shelf and rare tequilas and mescals are also available.

Their head chef Nando also offers Vietnamese cooking classes!

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Dining

Orivy:

Delicious family-style local cuisine

Amy Morison

Slightly off the tourist trail, Orivy is a newcomer to the Hoi An dining scene and despite its obscure location is fast earning a reputation as one of Hoi An’s finer little family restaurants. Set in a beautiful Oriental garden of lanterns and lotus ponds, the atmosphere of the place is genuinely romantic.

The menu is also impressive – intermingled with stories and information about his parents and growing up in Hoi An, owner Pham Minh Liem has added a real personal touch. We learn that his mother was an excellent home cook, who understands the nutritional benefits of herbs and other integral ingredients and has inspired much of the menu. Meanwhile, his father was one of the more talented fishermen of his village, so the family were always blessed with having quality fresh sea fish – they are very particular about the fish they serve.

While the menu is fairly large, Orivy isn’t over-ambitious. Liem also encourages guests to try the everyday foods that Vietnamese eat such as the fish broth and fish in banana leaf. We tried the “Sour broth with ‘Loc’ fish” (70,000VND) which was a perfect, piquant burst of flavours. We also enjoyed the mango salad with dry beef (65,000VND) which was divine.

They used a local-style of beef “floss” which had a welcome kick to it. The grilled pork with lemongrass and chili (90,000VND) was also mouthwateringly tender.

Definitely try one of Orivy’s fresh juices which are served in unique glass carafe. They have many to choose from including the usual suspects (orange, mango) and then some unexpected ones (such as pomelo). Teas include the homemade Orivy Oolong amongst others but we opted for mama’s homemade brown rice tea and it was amazingly good (30,000VND per pot).

All in all, we will definitely go back – a lovely little surprise of a restaurant just outside the old town off Cua Dai road (check their website for a location map).

© Orivy

Orivy 578/1 Cua Dai Rd Tel: +(84)5106506979 Web: www.orivy.com

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Clam Culture:

Ngoc Mai

Seafood Restaurant Neil Neil Fraser Fraser

If you fancy an authentic Vietnamese seafood restaurant, set in the most idyllic of beachside locations – you should be heading to Ngoc Mai. This super friendly little gem is located on Ha My Beach, a relatively undiscovered stretch of wide sandy beach just north of Hoi An. Think castaway palm thatched dining with views over the East Sea from Da Nang to the Cham Islands.

Greeted with genuine enthusiasm, our hosts proudly showed us the day’s catch in an assorted selection of fish tanks and buckets, teeming with live prawns, crabs, lobsters and fish. With oodles of choice and benefitting from being in a large and hungry group, we opted for a vast array of mouth-watering dishes.

Plates of tasty tamarind crab, succulent grilled squid, exquisite steamed clams with lemongrass and chilli, grilled scallops and a whole fish graced our table at a perfect pace over the next few hours, tapas style. The ‘piece de resistance’; barbecue grilled clams with cheese, spring onions, a dash of fish sauce and a sprinkle of pepper. Clam-tastic! The clams are 80,000VND for a generous portion and the scallops and squid come at around the same prices. However, crab, prawn and lobster rates depend on local market forces!

It’s best to go for lunch. If you Ngoc Mai Seafood Restaurant want peace and quiet, avoid the weekends. To get there head out of Ha My Beach, Hoi An Hoi An via Hai Ba Trung St and turn Tel: +84 (0)510 384 2020 left at the traffic lights (heading in the direction of Da Nang). After 3 kilometres take the right hand turn just after Le Belhamy resort. Ngoc Mai is 200 metres from there – the first restaurant on the left hand side.

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Dining

Seedlings:

Nurturing young lives into an F&B career

Amy Morison

Everyone would have heard this old proverb in one form or another – give a man a fish and he is fed for the day, teach him how to fish and he will be fed for a lifetime. This is the basic premise for the renowned KOTO (Know One, Teach One) programme, which was founded by Vietnamese-Australian Jimmy Pham over 10 years ago. KOTO gives marginalized or disadvantaged youth the opportunity to gain food and beverage training in Hanoi or HCMC. Seedlings – a new restaurant in Hoi An that is partnered with the KOTO programme and Laguna Lang Co – serves as a stepping stone between the training centres of the two cities and a real workplace, with each of the trainees spending the last 6 months of their 2 year tenure at the restaurant.

Seedlings brings a new and exciting dining option to the Hoi An culinary scene. The menu, which meshes archetypal Vietnamese dishes with an excellent array of Thai, Southeast Asian and Western classics, is sensational. The Seedlings trainee chefs have been given traditional kitchen training and been taught by chefs from esteemed resorts such as the Banyan Tree in Phuket, Thailand. Needless to say, their efforts are supported par excellence by the service team, who are genuinely as engaging in person as they are efficient.

“Despite the difficulties all of these trainees have faced throughout their lives, they are always smiling; always positive. It is a pleasure to work with such a dedicated and sincere team of individuals,” said Chi Phan, Director of Operations with Laguna Lang Co Vietnam.

Currently the restaurant employs 16 trainees from the KOTO programme and Laguna Lang Co provides them with a villa to live in, their uniforms, bicycles and all the other essentials they need to live and finish their training. Ms Chi hopes that Seedlings will generate enough income in the future to cover the current costs of the trainee programme.

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On the day of the review we sampled a number of Vietnamese tapas (which were thoughtfully prepared for us on one large platter) including Prawn Fresh Spring Rolls (Nem Cuốn Tươi), Grilled Mince Beef with Lot Leaves (Bò nướng lá lốt) and, Lemongrass Sugarcane with Sweet and Sour Fish Sauce (Chạo tôm). The presentation and taste of each was exceptional and their prices (tapas are normally 40,000VND per dish) very reasonable. Next we were tantalized by a piquant Beef and Banana Blossom Salad – the beef was nice and tender – and again, is a very tolerable price at 88,000VND. For the mains we had the absolutely delectable Steamed Prawns in Coconut (Tôm hấp dừa) and the Indonesian classic Nasi Goreng, priced at only 185,000VND and 165,000VND respectively. The prawns were a vibrant orange colour – an excellent indicator of their freshness – and were huge. Not to mention the artful presentation, which didn’t (unlike most local venues) hamper the delivery time from kitchen to table! The Nasi was also delicious, with the right balance of peanut and chilli flavour.

To complete our meal, we had an espresso made with Cafés Folliet Arabica coffee and pondered the menu again in planning for our next visit! If you’re in town and are looking for a top notch dining experience that also supports a good cause, then Seedlings should be on your musttry list.

Seedlings

41 Nguyen Phuc Chu St. Tel: +84 (0) 510 392 1565 Email: Seedlings-HoiAn@lagunalangco.com

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Dining

Samovar restaurant:

Brings Russian flavour to Hoi An

Amy Morison

“Za vashe zdorovie!” Or “to your health” as we say in English, to the latest addition in Hoi An’s culinary scene, Samovar restaurant, a venue that offers bona fide Russian and other specialties from throughout the former Soviet Union on its menu. The restaurant opened in August this year.

Located in a serene part of the old town in a stunningly decorated ancient house on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai street, Samovar is not only the first restaurant in Hoi An to offer authentic Russian dishes but the first that is staffed with a Russian chef, restaurant manager and bar supervisor.

Russian head chef Evgeny has worked with Vietnamese head chef Hoang to create a menu that combines Soviet delicacies with innovative international, Asian and Vietnamese dishes.

The restaurant will not only be beneficial for Russian tourists visiting the region, but has undoubtedly excited the local palate too, adding a new cuisine to the repertoire that is available in Hoi An. Their delicious food – which is very reasonably priced – is matched by a decent beverage list that includes draft Huda beer (Samovar is the first restaurant in Hoi An to offer this famous Hue beer of Danish design on tap), wines and spirits.

It should go without saying that this new restaurant has a prime selection of vodkas. Moreover, Samovar currently has a promotion with their Huda draft beer by the glass (300ml – 25,000VND) where if you buy two, you get one free all day!

Classic Russian appetizers items on the menu include red caviar and toast (125,000VND), smoked mackerel (75,000VND) and salted salmon (105,000VND).They also offer the famous hot beef soup, Borsh (Ukrainian style, 85,000VND) as well as the renowned sweet, spicy and sour soup Solyanka (95,000VND). There is a Russian salad of beef and olives

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(65,000VND) and sumptuous dumplings filled with spiced meat such as the Uzbek Manti (115,000VND) and the Russian Pelmeni (105,000VND).

Other mains include a Russian-style beef steak and international pasta dishes. Samovar has a stellar BBQ and their pork and lamb skewers are testament to their excellence in cooking technique too – minced lamb and lamb piece skewers are a very well-priced 155,000VND, while pork and chicken are 135,000VND per dish and the seafood BBQ dish185,000VND. For those aching for a little Asian flavour, there is a good selection of Vietnamese and Asian-inspired dishes which differ vastly from the typical items on many a Hoi An restaurant menu. Chef Hoang’s Shrimp ‘Rocket’ (195,000VND) is a delectable must-try and there are a number of spring roll, tempura and other prawn dishes to enjoy. Aiming to be family-friendly, Samovar offers a kid’s menu and will build a small playground for children in the near future.

Open daily from 9am to 11pm, Samovar Restaurant has menus in English, Russian and Vietnamese.

Samovar Restaurant 73 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St Tel: +84 (0) 510 3 939 373

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Dining

Seventh Heaven:

Dining at The Nam Hai

Amy Morison

The end of this year marks The Nam Hai resort’s seventh year of operation and, according to executive chef Richard Wilson, the resort is at its zenith. The Nam Hai set the benchmark for luxury accommodation in Vietnam when it opened its doors in 2006 and has been lauded in many an international editorial as the best beach resort in the country. However, few reviews have gone into any depth about dining at The Nam Hai; possibly because the writers assume that neither expats nor outside guests would venture to the resort for a meal because of its elite image. What is it that they say about assumption? For the discerning gourmet, The Nam Hai will offer a culinary experience that is unparalleled in this part of the country.

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While Chef Richard undoubtedly has a lot on his plate (excuse the pun), the kitchen at the resort runs seamlessly. Chef Richard has been working with the GHM group for a decade now, including properties in Korea, Malaysia, Oman and Thailand. In 2009, he was the Guest Head Chef over the peak holiday season at The Nam Hai and returned over 1.5 years ago to assume the role of head chef. Originally from New Zealand, classically trained Chef Richard holds an impressive C.V. After five years fine dining experience in Melbourne Richard moved to the Gold Coast where he worked at the esteemed Vanita's - the fine dining restaurant at the Versace Hotel, he was then appointed as Chef de Cuisine at The Shangri-La in Kuala Lumpur before taking up his role at GHM. The dinner menu at the main restaurant at The Nam Hai offers an eclectic choice of entrées and its mains are divided into sub-menus of ‘Indian’ and ‘Contemporary’. It is unusual for a luxury resort to feature Indian cuisine so prominently in the menu; a fact that is not lost on Chef Richard, who embraces it wholeheartedly.

“Ever since I’ve been with GHM, there has always been diverse cuisine catering to the varied palates of our discerning clientele, whether it be Japanese, Indian, Thai, Malay. The Nam Hai is no exception to this and serves an excellent choice of dishes made under Chef Yamala who has been here for 3.5 years and speaks fluent Vietnamese,” he explained. “The variety and subtleties of flavour in Indian cuisine is exceptional – it also appeals to a wide range of palates.”

Signature Indian dishes at the resort include the King Fish Mango Curry and Prawn Korma (each 720,000VND), both bursting with rich, exotic flavour. Meanwhile, Chef Richard’s signature entrées include the Beef Carpaccio (made from imported Angus beef, 540,000VND), the Lobster Ravioli (620,000VND) and Da Lat Organic Beetroot and Persian Feta salad (410,000VND). For mains, the Kurobuta Pork Cutlets (840,000VND), NZ Spring Lamb Rack (860,000VND) and Confit Duck Leg (820,000VND) are among the most popular. All dishes deliver at a high-end level in terms of quality and flavour.

For outside guests, the Western Degustation menu is an excellent choice. The restaurant's ambience, excellent quality of food and service standard is second to none. At the time of print, Chef Richard was offering a menu of five courses including the beetroot and feta salad, seared scallops, a duck and herb risotto, sea bass and saffron and raspberry crème brulee. The entrées, mains and desserts were each paired with a glass of wine and elevated one’s senses to the “seventh heaven” for a very tolerable price of 1,850,000VND++.

The Nam Hai Restaurant Tel: +84 (0) 510 394 0000 - Web: www.thenamhai.com

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Dining

Hoi An

Street Food

Neil Fraser

A culinary street theatre

The local stall holders are the new stars of the stage, peddling their wares at the top of their voices to an extremely appreciative audience, many of whom come back for an encore. From the matinee performances to the late night showing, Hoi An’s streets are alive with the sound of street food.

Any trip to Vietnam has to be complemented with sampling some of this incredibly fresh and tasty street food, and Hoi An has a vibrant street food scene offering both local and national favourites. Prime locations see interchanging stalls throughout the day and you’ll see these enterprising ladies carrying their entire stall over their shoulders, or pushing or pedalling their cart - complete with tables and chairs!

So, join the adoring crowds, squeeze into a plastic seat fit for a four year old and tuck in to some incredible street foods in amongst the locals.

Choose your time to eat around the vendors - the more famous ones can sell out quickly!

Banh Mi - A local favourite bursting with flavour. A light, crispy baguette filled with smoky barbecued pork, cured ham, pate, salad, local

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herbs and a chill dressing with an optional extra fried egg piled on top. A great breakfast option is the Banh Mi Op La, served with fried/scrambled eggs. Early morning until mid afternoon. Live Hoi An top vendor – Phuong Banh Mi. Hoang Dieu Street, near the market side entrance.

Cao Lau - A Hoi An speciality noodle dish. Made with the legendary Hoi An noodle of the same name. The delicious smoky, fat noodles form the base of the dish with a layer of herby greens (watch out for the infamous fish leaf, a dark green herb noticeable by its similarity in shape to the ace of spades, the flavour is not for everyone!) bean-sprouts topped with thick slices of lean pork, a spoonful of pork broth and topped with crispy pork fat fried cao lau croutons. Garnish with pickled onions, chilli paste and fresh hot chillies. Morning until lunch time. Live Hoi An top vendor – Tuyet Cao Lau, Tran Phu Street (opposite Mermaid Restaurant).

Mi Quang - A great noodle dish from the Quang Nam region. A hearty bowl of flat rice noodles with a choice of seafood (coastal) or pork and river shrimp (country), dressed with local herbs, salad and crunchy bean sprouts with a ladle of hearty broth. Served up with a rice cracker (which you break up and sprinkle on top), chilli, and condiments on the side. Morning until lunch time. Live Hoi An top vendor – Central Market Food Hall, Tran Phu Street.

Pho Bo - Vietnam’s favourite and most famous dish, a beef noodle soup hailing from the northern provinces, Hoi An’s variation a varies slightly from the original – Ha Noi is still king of pho (so do look out for signs advertising Pho Ha Noi)! A beefy stock flavoured with aromatic Vietnamese spices, lightly seasoned and served over a bundle of flat rice noodles, topped with thin slices of lean beef. Garnish this to your taste with a side dish of bean sprouts, fresh chillies, Quang Nam chilli paste, a fresh lime slice, herbs and of course a nip of fish sauce. Pho Ga (chicken noodle soup) is a popular alternative. Early morning until lunch time Live Hoi An top vendor. The covered food area, far left, An Hoi Islet.

Com Ga - Literally Chicken Rice.

The national dish of Tam Ky, Quang Nam’s capital. Chinese style, wok fried turmeric rice is flash fried in a lug of chicken stock before being served up with a good sized serving of sliced, raw onions and a rather disappointing amount of shredded chicken (ask for a big portion) and sprinkled with the com ga herb. A side dish of grated, young papaya and bowl of chicken stock are provided along with condiments (usually fish and chilli sauce). Afternoon until early evening. Live Hoi’s top vendor. Com Ga 16, Phan Chu Trinh Street.

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Dining

Bun Thit Nuong - A generous serving of cold noodles piled high with the most delicious grilled, five spice pork, crunchy salad and pickles, drizzled with an almost satay style nutty sauce. An alternative to the noodles is wok fried turmeric rice. Late afternoon until early evening. Live Hoi An top vendor. Tran Cao Van Street (opposite White Sail Café).

Banh Bao - Steamed rice flour dumplings with various filling including minced pork, mushrooms herbs and a boiled quail’s egg (on auspicious days like the full moon a vegetarian – mostly herby mushroom stuffing is offered). The vendors mobile carts can be seen around the streets. Late afternoon until early evening. Live Hoi An’s top vendor - Near the motorbike ferry on Bach Dang Street.

Thit Heo - Very simple and delicious snack sized bites. These little mobile grills set up on all corners of the town. Marinated pork skewers come as takeaway with a little bag of chilli dipping sauce. Mid morning until mid afternoon. Live Hoi An’s top vendor - At the intersection of Nguyen Thai Hoc St and Bach Dang St. Banh Xeo - Savoury rice pancakes filled with bean sprouts and shrimp, served with pork skewers, fried river shrimp spring rolls and pickled vegetables. Roll all these in rice paper to make your own flavour packed rolls. Local herbs, sauces and a quick lesson in the art of Bahn Xeo rolling are complimentary. Afternoon until late evening. Live Hoi An’s top vendor. Ba Le Well, alleyway of the famous Ba Le Well, off Phan Chau Trinh Street.

Ca Phe Sua Da - Ok, not strictly street food. It literally means Coffee, Milk, Ice and is made using the now famous arabica bean grown in the central highlands with a dash of sweet milk added over ice. Leave your lattes at home, this is a must try for anyone in Vietnam in one of the local cafes that adorn every street. Order ‘Saigon’ style for a long glass.

Available all day everywhere in Hoi An. The local food hall at the Central Market (see Old Quarter Map) provide most of these at advertised prices or try your luck at one of the many street food stalls dotted around town for a great local eating experience.

For those of you who like comfortable chairs, linen napkins and a wine list; most of the restaurants in Hoi An offer their own upscale versions of some, if not all of these dishes.

LISTING 3Dragons Sports Bar and Restaurant

An ideal riverside spot for those in need of a few home comforts, the menu at the Three Dragons is full of everything you could desire, from perfectly presented Vietnamese delicacies right through to the best complements for an afternoon of cheering on your team (they have Satelite-streamed sports playing live on their TVs). Think burgers, sandwiches such as roast meat baguettes and Sunday roasts.

Hoi An specialities include the five spice duck, claypot pork and eggplant, superb fresh spring rolls and many more. Dine in the pub atmosphere at the front, or enjoy the peaceful courtyard ambiance at the riverside.

51 Phan Boi Chau Street. - Tel: +84 ()510 3914 742 Al Fresco’s

If you’re craving a decent Western meal after oodles of noodles in‘Nam, then Al Fresco’s is the most consistent and reputable place in town. From steaks, to pizzas, pastas and the famous BBQ ribs, Al Fresco’s have a menu to suit all tastes. Their Aussie-minded hospitality and across-the-board high standards ensure you won’t be disappointed. They also have a free delivery service throughout Hoi An. See the website for a menu! 43 Nguyen Phuc Chu St, An Hoi Islet Tel: +84 510 3929 707 Email: alfrescoshoian@alfrescosgroup.com Web: www.alfrescosgroup.com

Ancient Faifo

Built into a beautiful old house owned by the former founders of Thanh Ha pottery village, Ancient Faifo is a, cafe, gallery and fine dining restaurant all in one. Dine on delectable verrine tapas or coffee/cake, or sample their diving mains or set menus. Classic Vietnamese music performances at night (traditional instruments as well as a piano man) make for a romantic dinner. The interiors and general warm atmosphere make it a nice stop over for a break between sightseeing.

66 Nguyen Thai Hoc St - Tel: +84 (0) 510 391 7444 Web: www.ancientfaifo.com.vn Banyan

Enjoy a menu of tapas, pastas, mains and daily blackboard specials offered by Banyan. They also have regular seafood promotions that are sensational! Check our flyer to see their monthly events.

The menu is seasonal, with an emphasis on warming foods during winter. Premium cocktails, wine and imported beers (Asahi, Guinness) as well as local and draught beers feature on the menu. They have a pool table, petanque field and both indoor and outside dining areas. The baked camembert in clay pot is an absolute must-try! The atmosphere is welcoming, with Banyan being one of the favourite hangouts for expats as well as visitors.

Far left, An Bang beach - Tel: +84 935 100 337 Web: www.lebanyanbar.com Before & Now

The ever-popular Before & Now bar and restaurant is a lively place that’s suitable for all ages. If you want quiet, there is an upstairs area for dining, otherwise soak up the music and mingle downstairs. They

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offer a menu of mostly international and Vietnamese dishes – the pizzas and pastas are consistently good, as are all the local dishes. Check the blackboard daily specials for drink promotions. Bar manager Phong plays an excellent mix of Indie/Alternative/Britpop music, making this one of the coolest places to hangout (please don’t ask him to play Hip Hop). They also have a pool table.

51 Le Loi St, Hoi An - Tel: +84 510 3910 599 Web: www.beforennow.com

Cargo Club Bar & Restaurant

One of Hoi An’s most established and consistent restaurants, this is Live Hoi An’s favourite place for breakfast, but the menu is suitable for all times of the day. Their Italian and local dishes are all first-rate and the patisserie ensures excellent desserts. Try their pizzas topped with fresh rocket! The restaurant has both street and river views.

107-109 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3910 489 Email: cargoclub@hoianhospitality.com Web: www.restaurant-hoian.com Citron, Intercontinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort

Designed by architect Bill Bensley, Citron, embodies its name with vibrant green and yellow colours and innovative features such as dining‘pods’ which float out from the restaurant above the slope down to the sea. Boasting a menu of artisanal dining, Citron is best known by expats for its Sunday brunch – a buffet of prime seafood, meats, cheeses and more with free flow champagne at an excellent price (around 1,500,000VND).

Intercontinental, Son Tra Peninsula Tel: +84 511 393 8888 Web: http://danang.intercontinental.com/citron Fusion Lounge

Operated by the Fusion Maia spa resort this restaurant/lounge has a perfect location facing the old quarter from the other side of the river. Accessible by car and well-regarded for their unique food and drinks menu, the Fusion Lounge also doesn’t do much harm to the wallet. Try the signature Asian Fusion Set Menu, which is three courses for only 220,000VND or their new Bento Boxes! They also have delicious fresh baked pastries, Lavazza coffee and fine teas. 35 Nguyen Phuc Chu St, An Hoi Islet Tel +84 0510 393 0333 Web: www.fusionmaiadanang.com GODA restaurant

This majestic restaurant on Cua Dai road between the old town and beach, offers a vast array of excellent menus including gourmet Vietnamese, Japanese, French and Californian (there are many more). The four-floor venue has excellent vantage points of the surrounding countryside and town.

Both food and service are of a high standard due to the staff training under Eurasia hospitality. A great venue for either groups, functions or just a romantic tet-a-tet.

308 Cua Dai Road - Tel: +84 (0) 510 3923 644 Web: www.godahoian.com

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Good Morning Vietnam

For Italian cuisine aficionados, Good Morning Vietnam is the perfect dining venue in the old town.

Their positive reputation throughout Vietnam is widely known, offering excellent traditional pizzas, pastas and other Italian dishes.

102 Nguyen Thai Hoc St - +84 (0)510 3910 227 Green Chili

Hoi An’s only Tex-Mex specializing restaurant with Chef Nando cooking up Southwestern classics such as Fajitas, Nachos, Quesadillas and Tacos.

Grilled items such as steaks and ribs are also popular with guests, as are the lime grilled chicken with tequila and Chimichangas! They also have a very decent Vietnamese menu and innovative pasta dishes. Ask about their top shelf mescals and tequilas.

122 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3928 199 Email: info@greenchilihoian.com Web: www.greenchilihoian.com Green Mango Restaurant

This is the third venue of chef/owner Hai who has garnered a well-deserved reputation for fine fusion dining that combines French cooking techniques with dishes inspired by local ingredients.

His goat’s cheese cashew encrusted red grapes are amazing! As are all the dishes – recommended is the sea bass, lamb shank and white truffle and mushroom risotto. Hai has opulent taste so you’ll be dining in fine surrounds with a fabulous wine, cocktail and non-alcohol drinks menu and great table service.

54 Nguyen Thai Hoc St - Tel: +84 510 3929 918 Web: www.greenmango.vn Hai Café Bar & Grill

This charming 19th century classic Chinese building has been renovated into a spacious restaurant serving both Vietnamese and International dishes. Their lovely garden courtyard serves up a delicious nightly-barbecue, and their versions of local classics are renowned – namely White Rose and Com Ga. Hai Cafe also offers evening cooking classes as part of its Red Bridge Cooking School.

98 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An - Tel: +84 510 3863 210 Email: info@visithoian.com Web: www.visithoian.com Hai Dao Banh Xeo

One of Hoi An’s best kept secrets (until now, lucky for you readers!), Hai Dao serve arguably the best banh xeo (crispy pancake) in town. Filled with river prawn and bean sprouts and served with fresh herbs, vegetables and dipping sauce, banh xeo is a perfect winter dish. They also serve thit nuong – grilled pork with sesame seeds and delicious fried spring rolls. Prices are exceptionally cheap.

160 Ly Thai To St Tel: +84 (0) 510 3861 305 - Mob: +84 (0) 905 315 450 l’Annam, Victoria Resort

Overlooking the sea, l’Annam Restaurant offers casual all day dining, international or local Vietnamese and Asian cuisine with freshly caught seafood specialties. They also arrange special romantic dinners on the beach which are catered for by the

LISTING head chef. Don’t forget breakfast either which is by far the best deal in town for outside guests at only 300,000VND net.

Cua Dai Road, Hoi An - Tel: +84 510 3927 040 Email: hoian@victoriahotels.asia Web: www.victoriahotels-asia.com La Maison 1888, Intercontinental Sun Peninsula Resort

Three-star Michelin chef Michel Roux has created a haute dining experience at La Maison 1888. Each dish is created as an exquisite work of art – a modern interpretation of classic French cooking infused with subtle Asian flavours and using only the freshest available ingredients.

Intercontinental, Son Tra Peninsula Tel: +84 511 393 8888 Web: http://danang.intercontinental.com/ la-maison-1888 Intercontinental, Son Tra Peninsula Tel: +84 511 393 8888 Web: http://danang.intercontinental.com/citron La Plage

Located on the far right of the restaurant strip at An Bang beach this sweet little open-air café does wonderful French-inspired food, with blackboard specials offering up Fish of the Day as well as a menu of burgers, sandwiches and more. In the evening, Matty plays tunes that range from funk and soul to drum and bass! He loves imput from customers about which songs to play and will happily give over his laptop for you to select songs from youtube.

Far right, An Bang beach - Tel: +84 510 3928 244 Web: www.laplagehoian.com

Little Menu

Limited but excellent menu of traditional Vietnamese home-style dishes by Chef Son – traditional pho, mi quang, fresh seafood dishes (pan-seared snapper is amazing) and salad selection.

The illustrious Son welcomes every guest personally and is a wealth of local information. He also offers one-on-one cooking classes.

12 Le Loi Street - Tel: (84) 945 568 568 Web: www.thelittlemenu.com Luna d’Autunno

Their reputation preceded them from Ha Noi – with many saying Luna serve the best pizza in Vietnam. Live Hoi An would go as far as claiming it’s the best in the region. Their wood-fired traditional thin crust pizzas are incredible. They also serve a wide variety of authentic Italian dishes and a tiramisu to die for! Proper Italian espresso is also a given. Free delivery too!

6 Cam An (An Bang) beach - Tel: +84 127 2840 053 Email: lunahoianbeach@gmail.com

Luong Gia

This relatively new restaurant is owned by the same family that run the well-known Before & Now. Fantastic Vietnamese and Italian are their specialties and the ambiance is quite unique – both old relics and contemporary art feature in an inviting space.

There is a romantic atmosphere which is appropriately matched with a large selection of wines.

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34 Le Loi St, Hoi An - Tel: +84 510 3911 899 Email: luonggia@beforennow.com Mai Fish

The latest dining venue of chef Duc from Mango Mango, Mai Fish explores his journey back to Mama’s cooking – essentially Vietnamese soul food.

The seafood hotpot is absolutely exquisite, as are all the dishes on the menu. If you fancy a traditional Vietnamese dish in a beautiful setting (on the quieter side of the Japanese bridge overlooking the river) then Mai Fish should be on your‘to try’list. Prices are very reasonable.

45 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St - Tel: +84 (0) 510 392 5545 Mango Mango

The second restaurant of Duc and Ly of the famed Mango Rooms, this delightful restaurant has a great ambience as well as tantalizing menu.

Duc’s imagination went wilder with the second restaurant with more local dishes being meshed with Mediterranean and Latino tastes. Signature dishes include the red snapper, squid rings, and the amazing‘Lost in Translation’tuna rolls. Don’t forget to order one of their innovative cocktails!

45 Nguyen Phuc Chu St - Tel: +84 (0) 510 3911 863 www.themangomango.com Mango Rooms

Mango Rooms is famous throughout Vietnam (and also internationally) for its exquisite cuisine.

Caribbean and South American influences are seen in the interior, while the menu draws on local produce hinted with Latino flavours. Perfect for dining and chilling, founder chef Duc also makes for great conversation and entertainment.

111 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Hoi An Tel: +84 (0) 510 3910 839 Web: www.mangorooms.com Miss Ly

This famous café has been in business for many years and is an expat favourite. Her wontons are a must try as well as all other local specialties, such as her noodle dishes and tofu with tomato sauce. The standard of food is excellent in this little restaurant and the prices still reasonable. 22 Nguyen Hue St Tel: +84 (0)510 3 861 603 / + 84 (0) 905 234 864 Email: lycafe22@yahoo.com Market Restaurant & Cooking School

The latest addition by legendary chef and teacher Ms Vy, guests can choose from a myriad of local dishes from the various interactive food counters. Watch the give live food demonstrations on how certain ingredients are made – see dishes assembled from the basic ingredients to the end design. Every possible Vietnamese dish is available and all at reasonable prices. Dining is comfortable in either the courtyard or upstairs restaurant. Signature dishes include prawn wontons, stingray, suckling pig portions and hotpots. Have a peek at the weird and wonderful section, daily foods and of course the banh mi stand!

3 Nguyen Hoang St, An Hoi - Tel: +84 (0) 510 3926 926 Email: info@market-hoian.com Web: www.restaurant-hoian.com

LISTING Mermaid

This local institution offers a comprehensive Vietnamese menu with local dishes punctuating the selection. This is Ms Vy of Morning Glory’s fame’s very first restaurant set in a traditional old shop house which adds to the authentic atmosphere. Familystyle food, and efficient, friendly service make it one of the best restaurants in town. It is the‘original’family Vietnamese dining experience in Hoi An after all!

2 Tran Phu St, Hoi An - Tel: +84 510 3861 527

Morning Glory Cooking School & Restaurant

This restaurant is a must-visit venue for those wanting to experience the real street foods of Hoi An (without actually sitting on the street). Both traditional and newly inspired dishes are on the menu with healthy choices too. The vegetarian Cao Lau, Crispy Tofu peppermint salad, Chicken with Lime Leaves and Seaweed Fish Soup are but a few of our favourites. 106 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 2241 555 Web: www.restaurant-hoian.com

Nuong Than

You won’t find this BBQ restaurant listed on TripAdvisor – and we’re trying to keep it that way! For authentic Vietnamese BBQ in a local, fun-filled atmosphere, come here for a dinner and beers. Good for all the family, prices are very reasonable (from 50,000-100,000VND). The pork belly, beef in la lot and chicken wings come highly recommended. They use the old fashioned ceramic bowls as beer drinking vessels – very rustic and cool!

Open 5-11pm (later depending on the crowd) 280 Ly Thuong Kiet St Reaching Out Teahouse

The first and only teahouse in Hoi An offering up exceptional gourmet teas and coffees in a stunning old house near the Japanese bridge.

Staffed mostly by the hearing and speech impaired, Reaching Out Teahouse is an extension of the Reaching Out retail outlet, which embraces the principles of Fair Trade. All teas, coffees and snacks are organic and unique. The cafe has a quiet ambiance – their slogan‘the beauty of silence’encourages that – and the outdoor courtyard is simply beautiful to enjoy a nice cuppa.

131 Tran Phu St - info@reachingoutvn.com Red Bridge Restaurant & Cooking Class

The cooking class at Red Bridge is more famous than for dining at the restaurant, however we see it is one of the most pleasant venues to eat in Hoi An. Being further down the river than the main throng of restaurants it offers tranquility as well as a fantastic menu. We recommend a late lunch followed by sparkling wine and a sunset boat ride back into the old town. Hamlet 4, Cam Thanh - Tel: +84 510 3933 222 Web: www.visithoian.com

Sakura Restaurant & Cooking Class This restaurant is majestically located on the corner of Nguyen Thai Hoc and Bach Dang streets with a stunning terrace balcony overlooking the river.

A long-established restaurant, Sakura’s name may be misleading as the menu is gourmet Vietnamese,

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not Japanese. Sakura is a great venue to drink in atmosphere of Hoi An, offering a well-executed, comprehensive menu.

119-121 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3910 369 - Email: sakurahoian@vnn.vn Web: www.hoiansakura.com

Samovar Russian Restaurant

Located in a serene part of the old town in a stunningly decorated ancient house on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai street, Samovar is not only the first restaurant in Hoi An to offer authentic Russian dishes but the first that is staffed with a Russian chef, restaurant manager and bar supervisor. Classics such as borsch, pelmeni, caviar and BBQ dishes are available, as is an excellent choice of Hanoi-inspired Vietnamese dishes. Menus are available in English, Russian and Vietnamese. They also have Huda beer on tap.

73 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St - Tel: +84 (0) 510 3 939 373 Seedlings

This restaurant utilizes the shared vision of the KOTO Foundation and Laguna Lang Co to provide training opportunities to marginalized youths, giving them the life skills to create successful careers. Their superb menu meshes archetypal Vietnamese dishes with an excellent array of Thai, Southeast Asian and Western classics. The Seedlings trainee chefs have been given traditional kitchen training and been taught by chefs from esteemed resorts such as the Banyan Tree in Phuket, Thailand. Their efforts are supported by par excellence by an engaging and professional service team.

41 Nguyen Phuc Chu St - Tel: +84 (0) 510 392 1565 Email: Seedlings-HoiAn@lagunalangco.com Soul Kitchen

On the beautiful An Bang beach, enjoy the gourmet delights of Soul Kitchen; a fusion of local and Mediterranean dishes. They have daily specials depending on the market produce and also do French-bistro style foods. Excellent value food, peerless ambiance (the view is spectacular and there are both dining tables or sofas to lounge on) and reasonable prices make this a must-try on your Hoi An trip. They also have live music every Sundays from afternoon into evening. Credit cards are accepted here (the only venue on An Bang beach).

Far left, An Bang beach - Web: www.soul-kitchen.me

STREETS International

This modern café offers an excellent menu of local classics and Western sandwiches – their Paninis are the best in town. Also, all the staff are trained under the Streets International program for underprivileged youth, and their English and hospitality skills are second to none. Open for both lunch and dinner, the meals at Streets are delicious and – as the slogan says, it is –‘Good Food Helping Good Kids’.

17 Le Loi, Hoi An - Tel: +84 510 3911 948 Web: www.streetsinternational.org Tam Tam Café

A Hoi An institution, Tam Tam Café is set in a spacious and stylish French colonial building with upstairs terrace seating overlooking the old town.

The ground floor offers a comfortable cafe and bar

LISTING area with a pool table. Tam Tam’s menu is inspired by a mixture of cuisines, with their resident French chef serving Vietnamese and Western choices. Fresh bread, pastries and mouthwatering cakes are also made daily. Tam Tam offer gourmet cooking classes too with English and French speaking tour leads.

Open 8am until 12pm Daily 110 Nguyen Thai Hoc St/ 121 Tran Phu St. Tel: +84 (0) 510 386 2212 Web: www.tamtamcafe-hoian.com The Nam Hai Restaurant

The dinner menu at the main restaurant at The Nam Hai offers an eclectic choice of entrées and its mains are divided into sub-menus of‘Indian’and ‘Contemporary’. Signature Indian dishes at the resort include the King Fish Mango Curry and Prawn Korma. While Western signature entrées include the Beef Carpaccio, the Lobster Ravioli and Da Lat Organic Beetroot and Persian Feta salad. For mains, the Kurobuta Pork Cutlets, NZ Spring Lamb Rack and Confit Duck Leg are among the most popular. All dishes deliver at a high-end level in terms of quality and flavour. For outside guests, the Western Degustation menu is an excellent choice – and very reasonable considering the ambiance, service standard and quality of the food – which includes five courses and three glasses of wine (paired perfectly) for 1,850,000VND++. Tel: +84 (0) 510 394 0000 Web : www.thenamhai.com Waterfront

This slick bar on the Bach Dang riverside in Da Nang is fast becoming the cities’hottest wining and dining venue. Expect excellent cocktails, a comprehensive wine list and a well-executed bistro style menu. The design of the restaurant is exceptional, creating a contemporary, minimalistic style with Asiatic touches. Happy hours are every Friday from 6 to 8pm. 150 Bach Dang St, DN - Tel: +84 511 3843 373 Email: info@waterfrontdanang.com Web: www.waterfrontdanang.com

White Caps beach Club & Bistro, Ocean Villas

The signature restaurant of the Ocean Villas resort, this beautiful venue offers both a stunning vista and incredible menu of local and Western culinary delights. Dine in a 5 star venue at 3 star prices. We highly recommend their Moroccan inspired Lamb as well as Hoi An classics such as the Cao Lau. Lovely staff will ensure the entire experience is nothing less than exceptional. Tel: +84 511 3967 094 Web: www.theoceanvillas.com.vn White Marble

The first fully-fledged wine bar in Hoi An, White Marble has a prime location on the corner of Nguyen Thai Hoc and Le Loi St. Their great wine selection is complemented by an eclectic tapas menu. This is a fantastic venue for people-watching and quaffing – we highly recommend you stop in to chill after a day of shopping and walking around town.

98 Le Loi St, Hoi An - Tel: +84 510 3911 862 Web: www.visithoian.com/whitemarble

Come and join us at Tam Tam's, an old Hoi An institution set in a spacious and stylish French colonial style building

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Cool Shaded Terrace Garden Atmospheric Restaurant Upstairs Delightful Vietnamese, Fusion And Western Cuisine

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Fresh Bread And Pastries Baked Daily Bar With Pool Table Happy Hours Daily Home Made Ice Creams

"Cook And Enjoy Yourself" Daily Gourmet Cooking Class (English & French Speaking) with market options by boat, bicycle or on foot.

Established in 1996.

Open 8am until 12pm Daily 110 Nguyen Thai Hoc St. - 121 Tran Phu St. 0510 386 2212 - www.tamtamcafe-hoian.com

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Shopping A journey through the lens:

Etienne Bossot’s

gallery

Text by Catherine Besch, all photos by Etienne Bossot

From working as a sales manager for a French wine distribution company to being one of Hoi An’s most sought after photographers, Etienne Bossot’s journey has been a colourful one. After deciding in 2009 that sales wasn’t his passion, Etienne began to pursue his hobby – capturing the beauty of the Vietnamese countryside and its people through the lens – fulltime. Without any official schooling in photography, he sought instruction from the internet and with more practice and experience realized that photography was more than a hobby but a potential profession.

In tandem with this life-changing decision (to make photography his full time profession), Etienne had agreed to work with the founder of Live Hoi An – Amy Morison – to get the publication up and running. While he was a critical member of the Live Hoi An team in terms of introducing the magazine to clients and managing the sales, he was also able to get his photos published and build a portfolio of commercial work. Meanwhile he continued to pursue his creative side by going out into the mountains with his camera and photographing people in the hilltribes and getting up early to snap the fishermen bring in their catch.

This spurned the idea of the Hoi An Photo Tours in 2010 and he was encouraged further by his wife Hien, to make a business out of it. He succeeded.

Now the proud father of two boys as well, Etienne’s photo tour has consistently scored an ‘excellence’ ranking on TripAdvisor and he has been able to expand his tours beyond Hoi An to other parts of Vietnam and the region (Myanmar and Laos).

In addition to his photo tours and

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commercial photography work, Etienne opened a gallery to showcase his works in the spring of this past year. âœŚ As an established photographer in Hoi An, how do you feel that opening your new gallery has changed your business here?

The new gallery has been really good for credibility as a photographer and was a natural next step for the business. I use very high quality imported paper and the limited edition prints are done in HCMC at the moment, meaning the prints will have a much better finish and lifespan than what any other photo gallery is offering here. âœŚ What new developments do you have in mind for the next year with your gallery?

I am bringing a new printer back when I return from a month in France this fall so that I can do all my own printing in-house; this will really give me the opportunity to print much easier.

When I first opened, the choices for size and price were limited, but with the new printer, I have the chance to really expand the choice of available prints which start at 250,000VND for the small prints and 5 million VND for the largest limited edition prints. Also I can print on demand instead of having to wait for weeks to get a quality print from HCMC. In December I will have the newest edition of my photography book available! So there are many big things to come but I'm still doing it all for fun too, which is important! âœŚ As you have been here for more than 6 years now, are you becoming numb to certain subjects such as the colourful boats, or the scenes of rice paddies and village elders?

People ask me this question often, and the fact is, I will never tire of the simplicity of beauty. I still get excited about women in conical hats.

I love beautiful lighting. It's simple: give me a woman in a conical hat, some nice light, and I am bound to want to photograph that scene!

The Gallery (Hoi An Photo Tours) 42 Phan Boi Chau St 090 567 18 98 www.hoianphototours.com www.picsofasia.com

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Shopping

Tis the season:

Festive Shopping in Hoi An

Catherine Besch

Here in Vietnam, the last quarter of the year means saying goodbye to long, sunny days at the beach and stocking up on plastic ponchos for the rainy reason. The West, however, has started turning their wallets toward another fall phenomenon: Christmas shopping. Being in Hoi An during this season presents a unique opportunity. Instead of buying all the men ties and all the ladies smelly bubble bath, why not try getting gifts that don't come from the neighborhood shopping mall or online store?

Head down to the night market on An Hoi island directly across the river from the Japanese Bridge to see a wide variety of lanterns available for purchase. The advantage of lanterns is they fold down and are quite light, so bringing them home is simple and cheap. If you are feeling crafty, try making your own. The lantern making class at Long Vy Lantern Making is the adult equivalent of the picture you made as a kindergartener that says "I love mum" spelled out in macaroni, but at least a lantern will provide the recipient with some measure of aesthetic pleasure.

For boutique shopping, you've come to the right place. Whether you are looking for comfy resort wear and bathing suits to unique prĂŞt-a-porter designs, Hoi An is the place to be. Beautiful clothing is not just tailor-made here, so don't rule out the possibility of actually being able to pull something off the rack in Western size.

The original designs of the boutiques of avAna, Baba, Bohemian Luxe, Hot Chili, Metiseko, the Ô collective and Papillon Noir come from the creative minds of both long time expats and Vietnamese designers. For fun t-shirts made from 100% cotton with original designs go to the Papaya stores – their popular designs have been copied throughout the old town but the original is still best and most shirts are around 200,000VND (a bargain).

One of the best trends in Hoi An shopping is the opportunity to give back. Reaching Out handicrafts on Nguyen Thai Hoc St are all created by locals with disabilities and range from fine silk draperies to

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ceramics and fine jewellery. Lifestart Foundation's shop on Phan Chau Trinh St sells their Australian licensed Longlife natural body care products in addition to handicrafts made by those in their programs. Please see our section ‘Community’ or our ‘Good Business List’ for more ideas.

It is safe to say that Hoi An is an artsy fartsy sort of town in its own way, but admittedly, it can be tough to find art that isn't mass produced for tourists. For photography, you will easily find a wide range of both quality and price including French photographer Etienne Bossot's new gallery on Phan Boi Chau. If you are an experienced antiquer, than you might take a look at Diep Dong Nguyen on Nguyen Thai Hoc. While paintings, embroidery, and unique jewellery shops are smattered throughout the old town, Lotus jewellery have an excellent reputation for locally-made, luxury jewellery (at fair and fixed prices). For absolutely stunning gemstone jewellery designs, see duong jewelry which is located within the new GAM (Gemstones Art Museum) at the end of Nguyen Thai Hoc near the Japanese bridge. Another different option is a personalized bracelet made with Italian leather and silver jewellery

by Original Chain of Life (they will engrave your own personal message or mantra – a perfect gift to a loved one).

For 100% organic cotton and natural silk fabric items, seek out one of Metiseko's two eco chic lifestyle stores in town and enter an eco friendly world of fashion, accessories, home decor and bed linen.

Or try the recently opened the O collective, a new concept shop showcasing the latest emerging brands from Vietnam. Exclusive fashion collections, accessories and must have gifts for all the family, including a whole floor devoted to speciality foods and beverages.

If you’re truly starved for original ideas make a stop at Jade Rabbit’s Emporium – from novelties to hand-picked teas, spices and other ‘curios’ you’ll undoubtedly find gift inspiration here!

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ART/CRAFTS

Jade Rabbit Emporium

A treasure chest, a trove, a trader’s laden ship: filled with curios and cures, remedies and novelties. Jade Rabbit’s shelves are filled with a cornucopia of the weird and wonderful. Elemental forces – Heaven, Earth, Sea and Moon – inform their range of homewares. Fragrant teas from the northern highlands. Match it with your favourite cup – create the perfect gift. Naturally harvested sea salt, blended with spices, seeds and zest add a touch of culinary magic to your festive fare. Pestles and mortars, chopping boards, giant chopsticks and so much more. 9 Nguyen Phuc Chu St Web: www.jaderabbitemporium.com Lifestart Foundation Shop

Buy original gifts from the Lifestart Foundation and help fund their philanthropic work.

The foundation is a non-profit, grassroots organization aimed at helping underprivileged people become self-sufficient. Besides their art/lantern making workshops, they also sell unique gifts including handmade woollen sock toys, button rings and many other locally-inspired handicrafts.

77 Phan Chau Trinh St - Tel: +84(0)167 355 9447 Web: www.lifestartfoundation.org.au Long Vy Lanterns & Workshop

Hoi An’s most established lantern-makers, Long Vy cater for both personal and corporate shoppers. Many of the resorts of the central coast buy their lanterns from Long Vy, as well as customers abroad. They have custom-made lantern designs for operas, Asian-inspired events and more. All lanterns are made to the highest quality and can easily be shipped abroad. Personal shoppers interested in learning the art of lanternmaking can also take one of their workshops.

6 PhanChau Trinh St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3606611 / 908 664 731 Email: longdenlongvy@gmail.com Web: www.hoianlantern.com.vn Reaching Out Fair Trade Store & Workshop

Beautiful handcrafted gifts abound at this Fair Trade outlet in Hoi An. Lacquer ware, bedding, jewellery, table runners, ceramics, bags and clothes are some of the various and unique items on sale here – and at fixed prices. The artisans have different abilities and are all paid a fair wage with proper benefits. You are welcome to check out their interactive workshop at the back.

103 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3910 168 Email: info@reachingoutvietnam.com Web: www.reachingoutvietnam.com the O collective

the O collective is Hoi An’s first multi brand boutique offering an exclusive range of brands all under one roof in the heart of old Hoi An. Located on Hoi An’s main shopping street, Nguyen Thai Hoc, The O collective offers a respite for weary shoppers where they can relax and shop in a tranquil atmosphere and experience some of the best emerging brands from Vietnam in women's fashion, men's fashion, children's clothing, souvenirs and toys and speciality foods and beverages.

85 Nguyen Thai Hoc St., Hoi An Tel: +84 (0)1283 276 993

FASHION

avAna

A unique boutique which sells original accessories, clothes, shoes, interior wares and children’s wear by expat duo Anna and Ava. Importantly, the pair draw on local materials for their inspiration and work with Hoi An craftspeople to make their designs. If you want to support local artisans and see some inspiring tropical chic designs, be sure to check out their shop.

57 Le Loi St, Hoi An - Tel: +84 510 3911 611 Email: info@hoian-design.com Web: www.hoian-design.com Bohemian Luxe

This new arrival to Hoi An mainly focuses on ‘Bridal Couture’ – where they produce bespoke bridal wear that diverges from traditional gowns – however, the brand Bohemian Luxe also produces exceptional resort wear and accessories.

All clothing is printed on fine silk or cotton and incorporates local handiwork in terms of beading, embroidery and crochet. 11/19 Phan Boi Chau St Tel: +84 (0) 908 403 809 (Jude) or +84 (0) 128 329 6993 (Louise) Web: www.bohemianluxebridal.com Hot Chili

If you’re staying in one of Hoi An’s luxury resorts, you’ll probably be familiar with the Hot Chili brand. Groovy designs on comfortable, high quality cotton fabrics are the cornerstone of this unique brand set up by Australian couple John and Jennie. Come to their shop to see more designs, including their signature dress-length t-shirts, swimming costumes and more. They also own the renowned Sao Viet printing company so clients looking to custom-make and print t-shirts in bulk can also contact them.

Hot Chili 1: 67 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Hot Chili 2: 43 Tieu La St (cnr Bach Dang off market) - Tel +84 510 3929 553 Web:http://hotchilifashion.com Web: www.vietnamtshirtprinter.com Metiseko

Chic indigenous designs on gorgeous fabrics – 100% organic cottons and silks – and tasteful home décor are the essence of this new shop near to the Japanese bridge. Combining fashion knowhow with an environmentally sustainable ethos, Metiseko is one of Hoi An’s coolest boutiques.

Metiseko 1: 3 ChauThuong Van St Metiseko 2: 86 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Tel: +84 510 3929 278 - Web: www.metiseko.com Papaya T-Shirts

Funky t-shirt designs made with 100% cotton! The original t-shirt design brand in Vietnam.

Buy from here and profits help street children in HCMC and underprivileged families in Hoi An. The shirts are high in quality and make for great gifts.

Many of designer Thierry’s ideas have been copied (such as the famous iPho t-shirt) but we encourage you to buy from the original source!

1 Nguyen Minh Khai St, Hoi An (monkey side of the Japanese bridge) 627 Hai Bai Trung St 164 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An 353 Nguyen Duy Hieu St Web: www.papaya-tshirt.com

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GOURMET GROCERS

Mister T

Open until the late hours, this minimart has fast foods (burgers made to order, sandwiches and hot dogs), fresh fruits and vegetables as well as a wide range of cold drinks, liqueur and wine.

If it’s after hours and you’re in dire need of a quite bite or something for the house (most basic home items are available) then venture here!

639 Hai Ba Trung St - Tel: +84 (0) 510 392 9527

JEWELLERY

duong jewelry & objects

Designed by the Milan-based artist Nga Duong, duong offers a wide range of unique jewellery, accessories and objects made with natural precious and semi precious gemstones.

Her beautiful designs are housed within the GAM (Gemstone Art Museum) in Hoi An’s old town.

130 Nguyen Thai Hoc st, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3939468 - www.duongprecious.com Lotus Jewellery

Beautiful handmade jewellery of silver and various local materials including beautiful stones sourced from abroad. Every design in this shop is original and there are some excellent locallyinspired pieces which make for great keepsakes to take home. Only pure silver and high quality items are sold here and prices are reasonable and fixed.

82 Tran Phu St, Hoi An 53A Le Loi St, Hoi An - Tel: +84 510 3911 664 Web: www.lotusjewellery-hoian.com Original Chain Of Life

Choose your own message and have it handengraved on these unique leather bracelets or necklaces by Danish brand Original Chain of Life.

Using imported 925 silver and Italian leather, customers can then have their values, quotes, vows or other inspirational messages engraved. Every piece is hand engraved in Hoi An – one silversmith takes a full day to finish one item. Fine quality, original jewellery, that make for great gifts.

Tel: +84 (0) 908 043 100 www.originalchainoflife.com

SHOES

Shoe Shop 09

Expect great quality custom-made shoes from this long-time family shoemaking business.

They have readymade designs or can tailor to your own specific designs. All 100% leather, quality made soles. MsTuong and her team actually specialise in leather products too, so besides shoes you can find a fantastic range of handbags, purses and stylish leather jackets.

65 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoi An - Tel: +84 510 3863573 Email: tuong2002@hotmail.com

TAILORS

Tuong Cloth Shop

This long established family run tailors offers a fast professional made to measure service on both ladies and mens fashion. Centrally located next door to the co-owned Shoe Shop 09 on Tran Hung Dao St., Ms Tuong and her team offer high quality items at great prices, and essentially for short term visitors - a very quick turnaround service.

67 Tran Hung Dao St. - Tel: +84 (0) 510 386 4573 Email: bituong@gmail.com Lana Allure

Lana Allure looks no different from any other tailor in town, but you only need to step inside to see that this is a serious tailor shop. The staff are highly skilled, they know their trade front to back and are not afraid to challenge design ideas and unusually, to recommend more time to be invested into more complex items. They even offer a 2 year guarantee on their tailoring.

90 Le Loi St, Hoi An - Tel: +84 510 3929 559 Yaly Couture

Yaly Couture is renowned for making highly exquisite, fashionable clothes, made to measure.

One of the few tailors who have exhibited their craftsmanship on the catwalk, you can be guaranteed luxurious and quality products from this company. Yaly are famous in Vietnam and with good reason – high quality materials, craftsmanship and service are exceptional. They also have a great range of custom-made leather shoes, jackets and handbags – see their new shop on Tran Hung Dao St. 47 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An 47 Tran Phu St, Hoi An 358 Nguyen Duy Hieu St, Hoi An 22 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoi An (Yaly Leather) Tel: +84 510 3910474 / 3861119 / 3914 995 Email: quynh@yalycouture.com Web: www.yalycouture.com

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!

SHINE Hair the sun A boutique salon in Hoi An

The butterfly is the ultimate symbol for metamorphosis; when it emerges from its cocoon, it is a remarkably beautiful being that is free to flutter its colours to the world. It is also the perfect metaphor for SHINE, a new boutique salon in Hoi An, and one that vivacious stylist Mandy Amos has chosen as her

business card emblem. By embracing the philosophy that one should “reflect on the outside what you are on the inside”, it’s more than possible that Mandy will create somewhat of a ‘butterfly effect’ of her own in this heritage town.

Amy Morison

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SHINE is no ordinary salon and Mandy is certainly not your typical hairdresser. For starters, SHINE is an appointment-only salon that offers one-on-one beauty consultations in a private, air-conditioned environment. Secondly, it is aimed at expats in Hoi An and Da Nang rather than tourists, although Mandy does take on destination wedding events. And since capturing one’s inner beauty is at the heart of the SHINE experience, a hair cut or re-styling at SHINE is as much of an exercise in improving one’s self image and esteem as it is in looking good.

In fact, the ethos and the inspiration for the name SHINE comes from a programme of the same name aimed at troubled and underprivileged teenagers in Australia. Mandy voluntarily ran beauty and hair style classes in high schools that focused on self-awareness, personal growth and confidence. When she saw just how much difference the programme made in the participant’s lives, she wanted to name the salon in Hoi An ‘SHINE’ in honour of her experience and out of continued respect for the programme.

Originally hailing from Sydney’s northern beaches, Mandy has enjoyed a colourful background as a professional hair and make-up stylist, business owner, teacher and tour leader. Her experience has included stints with the Australian film industry and working with famed antipodes journalist and TV presenter Maeve O’Mara (who hosts the popular show ‘Food Safari’) as a tour group leader for ‘Gorgeous Safaris’ which has been in operation for 12 years. It was through ‘Gorgeous Safaris’ – week-long, women-only tours comprising of spa treatments, retail therapy, gourmet food and cultural adventures in exotic locations – that Mandy was introduced to Hoi An and she felt an immediate affinity with the town on her first visit.

“The entrée to me coming here was as a tour guide but it was the energy and the vibrancy of the people that led me to stay. Hoi An has this unique ‘artsy’ vibe and atmosphere that is different from anywhere else in the world. It has the perfect balance of old town heritage and beach culture; of expat lifestyle and local community,” Mandy explained.

“Since my first visit here 9 years ago, I’ve always felt that this town has a lot of potential and I hope to see more local initiative,

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especially in the arts and health and wellness scene. There is so much talent among the local Vietnamese and I would love to see more of this creativity channelled – especially when it comes to using natural resources; Vietnam has such an abundance of wonderful resources!”

Mandy’s passion for Hoi An runs deep. She is fascinated with Hoi An culture and admires the fact that the locals celebrate the moon and season cycles with such proclivity. Like most of her expat counterparts, she finds the local community to be warm and welcoming.

“Hoi An people are very gentle in nature. While assertive when they need to be, I find that they are generally laid back and friendly. And despite the language and cultural differences I also find them to be quite playful, which can help a lot when it comes to living here as a foreigner.

Their innate playfulness and sense of humour can diffuse situations which might otherwise become frustrating.”

While she is a self-confessed “free spirit” and splits herself between tours and other commitments back in Australia, Mandy has paid the rent on her bungalow until 2015 and plans to be in Hoi An for a fair amount of her time until then. Besides offering hair, make-up and style consultations, Mandy collaborates with other professionals at SHINE to offer additional services. These include: express waxing through her long-time friend Van, acupuncture with Craig Ryan and Lisa Levine, and remedial massage with Michael Johnson. Stephanie Driver was also using the studio space upstairs at the salon to conduct yoga sessions when this magazine edition went to print.

Unlike other salons, SHINE only uses top quality imported products and equipment. Mandy works by a strict hygiene code and the space is modern but comfortable. There is private parking for bikes and she serves fruit smoothies, sparkling water and lime water to keep her clients refreshed.

Sometimes customers even enjoy a glass of wine while they get their hair done!

“First and foremost SHINE is a boutique salon where clients will get my undivided attention during their initial consultation. I allocate a generous amount of time to each client to ensure that we have properly discussed

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their design principles and personal styling tips and tricks,” Mandy clarified.

Mandy is also a keen advocate of natural skin and hair products, including organic extra virgin coconut which she uses in some of her treatments and also sells at the salon. She buys the oil from a reputable Vietnamese company called ‘La Coco Vie’ in 100ml bottles. Additionally, she has created her own a menu of facial treatments using organic substances such as fruits and coconut oil.

For tourists, Mandy recommends Bale Well and Tuan Boy salons (venues where she personally frequents for a hair cut). She actually collaborates with Tuan (owner of Tuan Boy) to purchase Schwarzkopf products and also meets up quite regularly to brainstorm ideas about new hair styles and wedding ‘looks’ – again, reiterating that sense of ‘community’ that is unique to Hoi An.

For those who live locally, Mandy is a godsend, especially as when it comes to getting a new style, communication is often of paramount importance. Not to mention the cathartic value of a good salon chat – I’m sure someone famous asked, “Why do need a therapist? I have a great hairdresser!”.

Considering the professional and one-on-one service, the prices at SHINE are not dissimilar to local rates – meaning the prices are very reasonable compared with what we’d pay back home! As an indicator, a new hair cut and style for a woman with a shampoo is 780,000VND and for a man it is 540,000VND. Chemical straightening starts at 700,000VND; as is the price for permanent colouring. However, in the initial consultation Mandy will go over the price list and determine SHINE exactly what you need Phone: +84 (0) 16 463 00 595 before giving an exact Email: shinehairdesign@hotmail.com quotation.

Facebook: SHINE Design Studio Hoi An - Vietnam

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Flu season:

Be prepared and aware Dr. Czarinah Pagay

Imagine this familiar scenario: you are going through your daily routine when suddenly you are seized with body aches, fever, runny nose, cough, a bad headache and a sore throat. Flu can catch anyone off guard with its debilitating symptoms and its ensuing fatigue, which often results in several days off from work or school. Worldwide seasonal influenza is the leading cause of mortality and morbidity.

The influenza virus can be differentiated based on its serotypes But the four most common flu strains are Influenza A (H1N1, H3N2 and H3N2v) ) and B (Yagamata and Victora subtypes). It can present as a self-limiting systemic illness or a more severe respiratory infection. Each year the virus rearranges its genes and can morph into more virulent strains or mutate from previous animal strains to cross-infect humans like the H1N1 swine flu in 2009 or the bird flu H5N1 and the most recent H7N9 outbreak in China in the first quarter of 2013.

In Vietnam, from 2007-2010, the Influenza A H1N1 strain has been found to be more prevalent in children younger than 5-29 year olds while the H3N2 strain have been more common to school aged children and the elderly population. But there has been no recent reported pandemic in 2012-2013 by the Vietnam Ministry of Health, with only three reported case of H5N1 in 2012 from poultry farms in certain provinces.

Is it just a flu?

Many discount the flu as a common cold and underestimate the destruction it can bring.

Most sick individuals do not come to see a health professional believing that they are just have is some “nasty flu� that will go away on its own.

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Although it is true that for most healthy persons, bed rest and fluids remain to be simplest most effective treatment, certain populations like the very young (less than 2 years old), the elderly (above 65 years old), pregnant women and the immunocompromised are at a high risk of developing serious secondary bacterial infections like bronchitis, pneumonia, sinusitis and otitis from influenza.

People with chronic medical conditions are also esspecially susceptible such as those with diabetes, asthma, heart, kidney and liver ailments or neurological diseases. Those who are in long term aspirin therapy and who have been diagnosed with AIDS or are morbidly obese are also at risk.

For children it is important for mothers or their caregivers to monitor for recurring fever or respiratory symptoms a few days after apparent improvement. Since a lung infection can come days or weeks after a bout of flu, a child can present with a faster and deeper breathing, a pale or bluish tinge on their skin, become more irritable, less active and may refuse to eat or drink milk.

For older adults, pneumonia signs can be very subtle. A lingering cough, dizziness, a heaviness or pricking sensation on the chest and shortness of breath, tiredness, and a loss of appetite can be just of its one of its signs.

Arming yourself Vaccine remains one of influenza’s most potent weapons. The vaccine is recommended for all ages at least six months of age. A child must be vaccinated in two doses six months apart. Thereafter, one can have an annual yearly revaccination. Because flu season starts by fall, it is advised to get your flu shot as early as September. Infection rate peaks by the winter months of December often lasting until January to February. The advent of antiviral medications like the Oseltamivir (Tamiflu) has also made it possible to shorten the course and intensity of the flu. This drug works best if taken within 48 hours of symptoms onset.

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A ubiquitous bug Travelers are also vulnerable to come in to contact with the influenza virus either from respiratory droplets through a person talking, sneezing or coughing, or through direct contact of the virus from contaminated surfaces in trains, airports or publicly shared spaces. It is for this reason that travelers are advised to be vaccinated a month or so prior to their intended travel. Yet despite this fact, majority of travelers do not get vaccinated. In one study it is estimated that only 27% had actually take the influenza vaccine prior to travel while almost more than half have not received any form of vaccination.

Taking action If you are down with the flu, it is important to stay indoors to prevent yourself from infecting other people (5-7 days). It is also best to see a doctor who can prescribe the correct medications for both immediate relief and resolution of the illness. Aside from usual sanitation and hygienic practices to prevent viral spread, the single best prevention is to have your flu shot every year.

Family Medical Practice is one of the clinics in Vietnam where you can have your flu vaccine updated. This season’s influenza vaccines protects against A/California/7/2009(H1N1) pdm09-like virus, A (H3N2) antigenically like the cell-propagated prototype virus A/Victoria/361/2011 and B/ Massachusetts/2/2012-like virus. The vaccine will be available at all our clinics in October 2013.

Dr. Czarinah Pagay is a General Practitioner at the Family Medical Practice in Danang, 50-52 Nguyen Van Linh St., www.vietnammedicalpractice.com.

LISTING MASSAGE AND SPA Fusion Lounge Sister to the decadent Fusion Maia Resort, this modern lounge retains the chic design of the resort, yet provides a relaxed environment from which to indulge in. Delicious coffee, pastries and to top it all they have a spa upstairs. We highly recommend the express services including head and neck and foot massages.

34 Nguyen Phuc Chu St, An Hoi. Tel: +84 (0)510 3911700 Hoi An Blind Massage Centre It is generally understood that what the visually impaired lack in sight, they make up for in an enhanced sense of touch and the “seeing hands” of the blind masseurs at the Hoi An Blind Massage Centre are very skilled. For just 100,000VND, you can get an amazing full hour massage. The centre is operated by a visually impaired couple, Quang and Thu, who also employ another two blind therapists. While the interiors are simple, they are clean and the level of treatment is excellent. The centre is open every day from 8am to 10pm.

240 Cua Dai Rd Email: hoianblindmassage@gmail.com Palmarosa Spa Hoi An’s first legitimate day spa. Palmarosa offers professional, modern facilities and services at very reasonable prices. They use the esteemed Azial, Rendez-vous and O.P.I brands for the spa and beauty products.

They also have proper shower/changing rooms with complimentary locker, towel, robe and steam and sauna facilities. The atmosphere and calming ambiance is one of a resort day spa yet their prices are similar to those of a small independent spa.

Massage treatments of 75 minutes average at 350,000VND. 90 Ba Trieu St, Hoi An Tel: +84 (0)510 3933 999 Web: www.palmarosaspa.com Tamarind Spa, Victoria Beach Resort The Tamarind Spa is rated highly in Hoi An, if not all of Vietnam. They offer a plethora of spa and massages treatments such as aromatherapy, Thai, Swedish, Hot Stone, Indian, traditional (plus more treatments), among other salon service. For peerless service, treatment and an unmatched

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ambience, it’s worth splashing out and treating yourself to an experience here.

Also, Victoria resort offer monthly memberships and day passes to use their facilities.

Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An Tel: +84 (0)510 3927 040 Web: http://www.victoriahotels-asia.com The Spa, The Nam Hai This spa has made the Conde Nast Traveler and Travel & Leisure top 10 list as one of the finest in the world, so you if you’re looking for ultimate decadence, this would be best bet. ‘Serene luxury’ is the objective of this spa and you’ll achieve it there. Treatment rooms comprise of villa-style salas that are floating over a pond of lotus flowers. The Spa offers a full range of face and body treatments including body polishes, romantic bathing ceremonies, pampering facials, therapeutic massages and detoxifying body wraps.

Packages are available and the Spa uses only pure botanical ingredients.

The Nam Hai Resort Tel: +84 (0) 510 394 0000 Web : www.thenamhai.com The Spa, Anantara Resort Anantara’s well-deserved reputation as a health and wellness sanctuary could not be better encapsulated than in their Hoi An spa. Treat yourself to a signature Vietnamese Four-Hands Massage. Double the relaxation, as two therapists massage your aching muscles into blissful submission for 80 minutes. For those with a little more time on your hands, the resort offers plenty of combination packages that include body scrub, body wrap, massage and more. During the ‘winter’ months check their website for promotions on hot stone therapies.

1 Pham Hong Thai St, Hoi An Tel: +84 (0)510 3914 555 Web: http://hoi-an.anantara.com/

HAIR SALON SHINE Salon A boutique salon for hair and make-up, SHINE is aimed at expats in Hoi An and Danang but also caters to destination weddings. Australian stylist Mandy Amos does

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one-on-one consultations with all clients in a private, air-conditioned space. Besides hair cuts, she also does colouring using Schwarzkopf and chemical treatments such as straightening. The salon is also shared with other professionals including Craig Ryan and Lisa Levine who are both qualified acupuncturists and Michael Johnson, who does remedial massage.

Tel: +84 (0) 16 463 00 595 Email: shinehairdesign@hotmail.com Tuan Boy Hair Salon Tuan has cut hair all over Asia and won awards for his expert hair colouring. He has styled the hair of the Miss Universe candidates, cut the Queen of Austria’s hair and been the expert consultant for various actors filming in the heritage town of Hoi An. He is by far the expat favourite in town and also offers a decent hair shampoo/ conditioning massage and cut prices. He is Tony & Guy certified, uses only international products and he has a price list printed out which are fixed and reasonable.

148 Nguyen Truong To St, Hoi An Tel: +84 (0)905 960 365 / (0)905 381 597

MEDICAL Danang Dentist/ Cosmetic Dental Clinic Run by the ever-smiling Dr Diep, who also works at Danang’s Hospital C Dental Department, this is well-regarded by expats as their go-to dental clinic. Dr Diep speaks good English and her rates are reasonable.

All new clients are given a free consultation on their first visit. Bookings are required.

Dentist, Dr Long The affable Dr Long provides decent Western standard dentistry at very reasonable rates. He is English speaking and his equipment up-to-date. He is one of the favoured dentists among expats. Bookings are required.

365 Le Duan St, Da Nang Tel: +84 (0) 511 3705 059 Family Medical Practice Da Nang For anything serious or if you want a general check-up in an international standard clinic, this is the most renowned medical facility in the Central Coast region. Family Medical Practice offers 24 hour emergency care as well as emergency evacuation. They are also

LISTING are aligned with numerous international health insurance providers and provide direct billing to customers.

50-52 Nguyen Van Linh St, Da Nang Tel: (0511) 3582-699/700 Emergency: 09 13 917 303 Web: www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Marie Stopes Clinic The Marie Stopes clinic is an internationally respected organisation specialising in women’s health and family planning issues.

The staff here are superb and have a real empathy for their patients. This clinic comes highly recommended by expats and tourists alike. There opening hours are Mon-Fri 07.30 – 12.00 and 13.00 -19.30 with a reduced service at weekends.

47 Le Dinh Ly St, Vinh Trung Ward, Da Nang Tel: +84 58 3817158 Nurse Practitioner Michal Noonan is a New Zealand Registered Nurse Practitioner practicing in Hoi An. She can attend to primary care issues and paediatrics, providing treatment and management for reasonably priced consultations in either your home or hotel.

Tel: +84 (0)1638353064 Women’s Hospital Da Nang’s new women’s hospital has recently been updated and offers exceptional care for women from pre to post natal and general care. English speaking doctors, up to date facilities and equipment and very reasonable prices.

26C Chu Van An, Da Nang Tel: +84 (0)511.2222059 Web: www.womenshospital.vn

VETERINARIAN Veterinarian, Dr Hung Dr Hung is an English speaking Vet who comes highly recommended. As well as providing all the usual inoculations and emergency care for your pet, Dr Hung is registered to microchip and handle the certificate to take your pet on domestic and international flights.

44/11 Hai Ho St, Hai Chau District, Da Nang.

Tel: +84 (0)905295336

A cut above:

a

sk any expat where they go for a haircut in town and invariably the reply will be "Tuan boy". This small, independent salon has built up a solid business in the heritage town, largely due to the skills and personality of its owner - who, unsurprisingly, is called Tuan.

Tuan has been in the hairdressing business for 18 years and has an impressive number of qualifications under his belt. In 2006 he added a Tony & Guy certification to his credentials and is quite famous in Central Vietnam having worked on various celebrities including the Queen of Austria and Miss Universe.

“I love to learn new styles – I follow the international styles and seasons and go overseas regularly to update my techniques. I’m always interested in developing the business by making it as professional as possible, and to an international standard," says Tuan.

Tuan only uses international products such as L’Oreal and Schwarzkopf. With his wife, Ut, they also offer a number of other salon services, including manicures, pedicures, hair extensions and make-up for special events such as weddings. Everyone who asks for a shampoo and hair cut always gets a fabulous massage too!

148 Nguyen Truong To St Tel: 0905 960 365- 0905 381 597

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Family

Fun for all the family:

Hoi An’s ‘Charity Christmas Bazaar’ Amy Morison

There’s nothing quite like a festive fête to get you into the spirit of Christmas and this year marks the 2nd annual Hoi An Charity Christmas Bazaar, a celebration that is not only fun but dedicated to a good cause.

For those of you who missed out on last year’s festivities, Hoi An Events organized the Christmas bazaar with the support of the local communities (including many business sponsors) in order to raise money for the Children’s Education Foundation (CEF). This year’s charity was not yet confirmed at the time of print but the organizers vowed that the event would be, “bigger and better with great Christmas bargains, more charity stalls, our favourite food vendors and extra festive cheer!”

It’s a great day out for the big and little kids with plenty of activities and entertainment. Kids will have the opportunity for a photo with Santa and there is a raffle with plenty of prizes to be won. For the adults, ‘festive’ beverages will be available along with Christmas-themed goodies and foods provided by a select number of Hoi An restaurateurs. Performances by both children and adults will undoubtedly keep everyone entertained and it’s a great way to catch up with the community before real Christmas kicks in. Make sure you mark the date on your advent calendar!

The funds from the event last year resulted in two girls from a very poor community receiving full educational support under the CEF, meaning their school supplies, uniforms and all school expenses have been met until the end of January 2016. The money raised also allowed the CEF to give Tet parcels with basic food supplies and treats for the poorest of the families in their sponsorship programs.

Hoi An Christmas Charity Bazaar Date: Sunday 15th December.

Time: 10am-6pm. Venue: Green Shoots Campus (TBC – please check Facebook Hoi An Events page). Tel: +84 (0) 915 325 614 Email: info@hoianevents.com

• For children from 18 months to 16 years old

• UK curriculum combining solid academic

basics with creative project-based learning

• Stimulating and supportive learning environment • Competitive pricing • Daily bus service from Danang

CONTACT US TO ENROL AND ENSURE A PLACE FOR 2013-14 Phone: 0903417745 (Catherine) Email: admissions@greenshoots.edu.vn Web: www.greenshootseducation.org

LISTING Art Classes with Hannah for Kids

Usually twice weekly, call Hannah directly.

Tel: 0120 883 2152 Camp Hyatt - Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa

Camp Hyatt is a perfect place for kids to hang out, with entertainment all year round including a rock climbing wall, surfing and swimming lessons. Babysitting service available.

Web: www.hyatt.com Add: Truong Sa St, Hoa Hai Ward, D Nang Beach Tel: 0511 398 1234 Golf at Montgomerie Links

The whole family can have fun playing golf at Montgomerie Links, check their website for special promotions– in some cases kids may play for free!

Web: www.montgomerielinks.com Tel: +84 (510) 3941 942 Green Shoots

Hoi An's only licensed international school for children from 18 months to 15 years. Fully qualified foreign teachers. Daily shuttle bus from Danang. Upcoming programmes for older children.

Tel: 0510 3924 854 or 012 0355 3171 Email: s.ryan@greenshootseducation.org

Sunrise Kid’s Club – Sunrise Resort

A getaway of fun in the sun awaits your little ones at The Kids Club. Children aged 3-12 are invited to a daily schedule of games and activities!

Add: Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An Web: www.sunrisehoian.vn/kids/the-kids-club Tel: 0510 393 7777 Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort

Victoria offer a wide range of recreational activities for all ages including beach sports, boat excursions and a professional child care centre with plenty of activities for the kids.

Web: www.victoriahotels.asia Add: Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An Tel: 0510 3927 040 Yoga with Stephanie

Stephanie offers Hatha and Yin Yoga classes for students of all ages, levels of fitness and flexibility.

Web: www.hoianyoga.com Tel: 0168 874 1406

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Property

Hoi An houses for rent:

Alex’s hot picks Along with his wife Ly, Alex Hartley runs Nhà Tôi – which translates to “my home” or “my house” in Vietnamese – a company specializing in rental housing as well as vacation rentals and property sales in the Hoi An area. They negotiate all the contracts on behalf of the tenants and landlords so that both parties are protected – including maintenance issues after a property has been rented out. The below listings are Alex’s hot picks (house rentals only) for this season.

HOUSE 1

HOUSE 2

10 MILLION VND/MONTH

10 MILLION VND/MONTH

• Fully furnished 2 bedroom house for rent in Hoi An located in Cam Thanh, 5 minutes drive to the center and 10 minutes to Cua Dai beach.

• 2 bedroom house for rent in Hoi An located in a residential area around 10 minutes by scooter to the city center and An Bang beach.

• 2 bedrooms with air conditioning, king size bed, cupboards & TV - One bedroom is En suite.

• Small garden at front of the house. Living room with sofa set & flat screen TV.

• 1 bathroom for all near the living room area.

• Western style kitchen with fridge and gas stove. Living room / Kitchen are air-conditioned.

• 1 living room with sofa set, TV, WIFI, DVD player and air-conditioning.

• Western Kitchen with all the equipment.

• Near Greenshoots kindergarten.

Contact Hoi An House: Tel: 012 6277 4421 Email: info@hoianhouse.com Web: www.hoianhouse.com www.vietnam-realestate.com

• Laundry room at the back of the house with a washing machine • One Ensuite bedroom with a king size bed, 2 wardrobes & A/C - bathroom with bathtub.

• One toilet & One bathroom for all to use.

• One bedroom with a king size bed, wardrobe, A/C & a decent size balcony.

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HOUSE 3

• Western Style kitchen with all the cooking utensils, fridge & gas stove.

• Bedroom 1: King size bed with linen, A/C, sofa chair & wardrobe

7 MILLION VND/MONTH • 2 bedroom house for rent in Hoi An located in the countryside, 5 minutes drive to the city center.

• Big front yard leading, living room with sofa set and flat screen TV.

• Bedroom 2: Ensuite-bedroom with King size bed, A/C & wardrobe • One bathroom with hot water • Nice back garden with a covered sitting area.

HOUSE 5

• Dining room / kitchen with dining table and chairs, fridge, gas stove and cooking utensils.

• One Ensuite room with King size bed, wardrobe and air-conditioning.

• One bedroom with king size bed & wardrobe.

• One laundry room with washing machine and a second bathroom.

HOUSE 4

10 MILLION VND/MONTH • 2 bedroom house for rent in Hoi An, located 5 minutes by scooter from the center of town. In a noflood zone. The house is layed more than 10 metres away from the road so traffic can't heard from the house.

• The house has a long front terrace, there are a couple of chairs, a table & umbrella; nice for outdoor dining. The living room has a nice leather sofas, TV & a desk.

9 MILLION VND/MONTH • 3 bedroom house for rent in Hoi An located on a quiet street off Cua Dai road. 5 minutes bicycle ride to the center of town and 10-15 minutes ride to Cua Dai beach.

Ground Floor: • Living room with Chinese sofas, flat screen TV & speakers.

• Western style kitchen with all essentials (fridge, gas stove) • 1 laundry room + a backyard • 1 bathroom.

2nd floor: • 1 ensuite bedroom with a king size bed, A/C & wardrobe • 2 ensuite bedrooms with mattress (1/2 with A/C).

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Around Hoi An

6 spots for recomended sightseeing around Cham Islands These exquisitely preserved islands comprise of eight islets altogether and offer the best diving in Vietnam. Brimming with marine life and corals from 5m to 30m below the water, these islands could be described as a diver’s paradise. The main Cham Island has a small, friendly community and harbours some beautiful beaches and jungle. The best option for diving, snorkeling or sailing tours out to the island would be to organize through the Cham Island Diving Center (www.chamislanddiving.com).

Bach Ma National Park Bach Ma National Park was a favourite residential area among the foreign elite during the French occupation. Today this sprawling 22,031 hectare national preserve harbours some of Vietnam’s most unique wildlife – efforts to regenerate areas cleared by either settlement or war have been very successful. In fact, species that were thought extinct have reemerged in this wonderful forest sanctuary, including the Argus and Edwards’ pheasants.

For those who enjoy the outdoors, Bach Ma will provide the ideal adventure, and is a mere 3 hours from Danang. Do check the weather though, this is the wettest place in the country and October and November see the most rain.

BaNa Hills Ba Na Hills is located on Chua Mountain in the Truong Son Mountains, 30km from the centre of Da Nang City. French colonists started developing Ba Na in the early 20th Century and now with its temperate climate and beautiful scenery, it is a very popular one day tour or even overnight stay. Experience the cable car to the hill station and take in the spectacular views over the East Sea and distant mountain ranges.

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Marble Mountains The Marble Mountains are a cluster of five distinctive hills famous for their limestone and marble contents.

Considered a holy site for Buddhists, the pagodas, shrines and cave grottos within the mountains are unique and beautiful. However, the mountains have become quite ‘touristy’ over recent years and it is best to visit either early morning or late afternoon else the normally serene space is not exactly peaceful at all. You can buy a map at the ticket gate which explains where to find certain attractions within the mountains and you’ll be surprised how much there is to explore.

My Son Regarded as Vietnam’s most significant archaeological site, My Son is a must-see sanctuary for any visitor exploring Central Vietnam.

The temple remnants once served as the country’s chief place of worship during the Champa Kingdom which peaked in Vietnam over 500 years ago. Visitors will see architectural influences from Cambodia, China and India in the unique stone vestiges. Plenty of tour operators have buses to My Son which last for a half day and cost around US$14.

Ask your hotel for details or consult our listings. Alternatively, hire a motorbike taxi to escort you – if you leave early you will miss the main throng of tourists and can stop and start as you please along the way.

The journey itself is wonderfully picturesque.

Hue Once Vietnam’s capital, the imperial city still exudes a regal personality that is unmatched throughout the country. For avid historians this is a must visit town – especially the Citadel, home to the forbidden city where only emperor’s and those closest to them were allowed within its walls.

Hue also boasts some of the country’s finest cuisine, having been a city that was home to the royal family the best chefs in Vietnam were handpicked by emperors to concoct special recipes. Of course commoners were banned from eating such cuisine but these days visitors can feast in a truly royal fashion during their stay.

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Travel

Seductive Sydney:

The Emerald

Photo: Ethan Rohloff

Sydney is a beauteous city – a city often illustrated by the eccentric architectural designs that dazzle over its elusive harbour, or by bronzed bodies that furnish its famed ocean shores. It is a metropolis of celebration and pomp; of artistic ardour; of fashion and pretension. While often shunned by inhabitants of its rival city of the antipodes, Melbourne, as a locale for sycophants and superficiality, Sydney remains one of the most visited holiday destinations in the world. Named “the Emerald City” by Australian playwright David Williamson, Sydney has an allure that runs deeper than its pretty lights and iconic waterfronts – it has an adaptable, cosmopolitan nature and offers an unspoilt, if not unmatched, variety of natural wonders.

Circulate around the Quay One of the more novel ways to get around, especially for the uninitiated, is to ferry about Sydney. This is a superb way to grasp the geography of the city while also enjoying the many landmarks that have garnered international fame. And Circular Quay is Sydney’s maritime central. The quay is not only steeped in the city’s contemporary history, as it borders on The Rocks – one of the first British settlements of Captain Cook’s fleet – but offers access to the world famous Opera House, Botanical Gardens and numerous other waterside locations in and around the harbour.

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Amy Morison

City Photo: Daniel Boud

Photo: James Horan

Here, visitors can embark to Taronga Zoo, a reserve that quite legitimately boasts “one of the best views of Sydney Harbour” and other bays and beach precincts including Balmain, Darling Harbour, Manly, Mosman and Watson’s Bay. Bridgeclimb For those with loftier aspirations, you can climb one of Australia’s most definable icons – the Harbour Bridge – with Bridgeclimb. While on the pricey side it is a one in a lifetime type experience with arguably the best view you’ll ever get of the city.

A rocky start The Rocks suburb is home to the city’s early European history as well as being conveniently located near Circular Quay and the Contemporary Museum of Art. With its the cobbled streets, galleries and craft markets The Rocks is a favourite among tourists and is within reasonable distance to Sydney’s Observatory Hill (for panoramic views of the city) and the central business district (CBD) where the Queen Victoria Building (QVB) and Centrepoint tower are located. The QVB boasts an architectural body of tastefully-restored Byzantine design and has been lauded by Pierre Cardin himself as “the most beautiful shopping centre in the world”.

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Photo: Andrew Gregory

Meander in Manly Perhaps one of the most enjoyable activities to participate in when visiting Sydney is to catch a ferry to Manly, one of the city’s prime beach suburbs. Not only is the stretch of sand worth the walk, the sparkling blue waters are heaven to any foreigner. If the weather turns sour, then the aquarium offers a viable alternative to surfing and sunbathing and the mandatory chippy and ice cream shops that line the esplanade make the area an ideal place for picnicking. Should you venture out in the morning, be sure to take a return ferry before dusk, as no other sunset view of the harbour will match that of a vessel’s view coming in from Manly.

Off the beached track Beyond Bondi and Manly, there are a number of beaches less frequented by tourists in Sydney, and frankly, they’re all the nicer for it. Shark bay, despite the name, is a well-protected and friendly (locals walking their dogs may smile at you and greet you with a cheerful “G’day”) beach located in Vaucluse. The beach, nestled amongst the bushy fringes of Nielson park, is clean, shark-proofed and hosts a great little kiosk offering an assortment of reasonably-priced traditional Aussie fare. Other beaches worth seeking out are those on the Northern shores, including Balmoral and Avalon. During the summer season, thespians of the ‘Bard by the Beach’ (formerly Shakespeare by the Sea) theatre company give free performances of the Bard’s classics on the shores of Balmoral. For those who want to witness a quintessential surfing or Aussie ironperson event, journey to Avalon on the north side. Avalon has a tradition in training lifesavers and is host to Australia’s national surfboat championships.

Potter in Paddington and around If you prefer the shallows to the deep end, there are plenty of inshore attractions to be found in Sydney. For those who appreciate the rustic and chic, center yourself around Paddington. Famous for its Saturday arts and crafts market, Paddington is also home to many independent fashion outlets and galleries where you’ll see the glitterati mingle with the grungy. Victorian terraces line the streets too, adding to the area’s almost gimmicky repertoire as an epicentre for the arts. Visitors can ramble back along Oxford St towards the CBD, passing by the “pink” suburb

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Photo: James Horan

Photo: Destination NSW

of Darlinghurst, where the parties of the annual Sydney Mardi Gras festival gravitate.

Quintessential cuisine Seafood and eat it in Sydney. Any national park that contains over 70 beaches within its realm is bound to cater for aqua-centric gastronauts. And this city does – from the humble takeaway fish shops to the creme de la creme of fine dining restaurants, there are plenty of outlets that promise to tantalize the taste buds.

The best selection of these can be found at Darling Harbour, a central, vibrant place of activity and nightlife, and also adjacent to the well-known Sydney Fish Markets. Many of the finer city seafood restaurants have a branch at the fish markets where you can either dine restaurant or picnic style. For those not budget-bound, make your way to the iconic Doyle’s seafood restaurant at Watson’s Bay. This restaurant epitomises fine seafood dining in Sydney – it is a classic, blending the best of crustacean cuisine with one of the most enviable views in the world.

Photo: Hamilton Lund

Photo: Pierre Toussants

Getting Around For any newcomer, Sydney may seem like a difficult city to navigate.

However, the public transportation system is one of the most efficient in the world and there are plenty of tourist-friendly information centres strategically placed around the city. It is advisable to purchase an all-inclusive transport pass (for usage on buses, trains, ferries and light rail) when touring around the city as this is not only convenient but saves tremendously on the travelling costs.

Silk Air – in conjunction with Singapore Airlines – have promotional airfares from Danang to Sydney until the end of 2013 that start at 18 million VND return.

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Travel

BEN AND THE B An expedition into the World’s Largest Cave

As a boy I marvelled at th was enthralled by the scene e sight of Mount Everest Mara in Kenya. Amazing Da of zebras and wildebeest vid Attenborough material! in the last 20 years, including Quang Binh province of ce my current location just took me inside and back ountral Vietnam, yet I still t of the world’s biggest

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IG HOL E Text by Ben Mitchell and photos cou Simon Dunne and Ryan rtesy of Deboodt

from a Nepali town in 1986 jumping into a river full of and as a younger man I’ve worked in various placecrocodiles in the masai outside the Phong Nha-Ke s around the world wasn’t prepared for this. A Bang national park in cave – ‘Hang Son Doong’. trekking expedition that

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ipped a wise in the planet,” qu big hole,” I le ho g bi a is e le! Ther bloody “Be warned peop urer near to the entrance. “It’s a we were about to ter nt t ve ha ad w w of llo y fe sit g en m im crackin to en e th om th the first tourists ing to fa corrected him, try on the expedition of a lifetime as by local bushman, Ho re ed see. Six of us we n Doong – a cave first discover cate again until 2009.

So ’t lo and explore Hang cident and one that he couldn ac rs to see Hang Khanh, in 1990 by the first foreigne y all tu n to ac re we Limbert special permissio Howard and Deb a British caving team who had g and in ey rv su en be of rt had Son Doong, as pa wonders of the area. The British nh since1990 when ral g Bi an Qu in s ve ca e explore the natu th bus. They e significance of in an old yellow documenting th st ventured down from Ha Noi fir Howard and Deb alright! oy cC M pairs of socks, al re e are th ge of clothes, six an ch an A . ht lig y nes style hat and cked fairl For this trip, I pa mfort, a machete, an Indiana Jo pointed photogenic co lf ap for 2kg of chocolate e photographs, me being the se w to use, but hoping r th ho Australian flag fo ch camera which I had no idea tion being hi-te rs on the expedi proof that I be em m r type. Oh, and a he ot e uring some t three of th that, with at leas raphers, I might succeed in capt og ot ph l na professio . e into the big cave ly significant. I’v had indeed been g was particular reigners were still on Do n So ng Ha fo For me, entering ea myself for many years when ars now but just 7 ye ng this ar e g in tim or of pl ns ex eo en e be lik Ba s Ke em ase Nh It . g on to Phon e regi banned from th da rshot of the gate en get within ea insk. Almost 3 years ago, I starte g ev ’t dn ul co I o, in M ag ag ian ur ss co Ru en y n st ga be my tru National Park on ith my wife and her family and we taken a great deal sw e local area. It’s tourism busines e and explore th nships have been forged with m co to s ist ur to foreign g relatio these years stron of effort but over

the government, park authorities and local community. Since word got out that the world’s biggest cave was in our vicinity (thanks to a National Geographic art icle published in January 201 1) I have been very excite d about the prospect of see ing the cave for myself. Fin ally, that dream became rea lity.

Before commencing the trek, we met at the “Ox alis Adventure Tours” office with Howard and Deb Limbe rt who were accompanying us on our expedition. Besides myself (Australian) there were five other countries represented: Canada, Norway, Russia, the UK and the US. We moved down to Ho Khanh’s coffee shop at Mt River Café and the site of his new home stay on the Son Song River. He had assembled 14 porters to carry our food and equipment and our Ox alis guide Thin was there too. We board and dump trucks and hea ed 4x4s de the jungle along the old d into Ho Chi Minh Trail. It felt like we were on a British expedition to the deep est darkest part of Africa with Doctor Liv ingston.

Upon reaching our trekki point we left the vehicle ng departure s and walked down to a minority vill age deep in the Ban Doong Valley on the Rao Thuong River, a place that time has forgotten.

No motorbikes or electr icity here. Only people living in a happy primitive way. Not people in poverty, just living conditions. We stayed ove in primitive rnight in a tremendous cave called Hang En (Swallow Cave in English.) It’s a stra ng cave is actually full of sw e name as the ifts, not swallows, but it’s spectacular all the same.

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The following day, we tre exit of Hang En and the kked through the massive n downstream along the Rao Thuong River until we reached the end of an enclosed valley sealed at the base by a massi ve sump.

The river in this valley can rise by over 80 me tres in the wet season and evi dence of this is plain to see along the way. After thi s, we climbed, and clim bed, until we reached the foo t of some lofty limeston cliffs and found the en e trance.

We spent the rest of tha t day underground an making camp just sho d rt of the first doline*. Th e next two days were jus t ind into too much detail as escribable. I won’t go I hope many readers wil l come see the cave for themselves now that it is accessible to tourists, but I will say that stand ing in a cave and looking at another person over a 1km away in the same cave, can be quite hard to ge t your head around. Wh en we reached the Gre at Wall of Vietnam (100 me tre the cave (160 metres hig s high) at the end of h), we journeyed by boat. Oxalis had carrie d in an inflatable boat and we rowed across the lak e to where the cave is over 200 metres in he ight and then carried our expedition back out.

It was an unbelievable experience and a privilege to spend 6 da ys and 5 nights with people like the Limbe rts, Ho Khanh and his merry men (the porte rs), in such an aweinspiring cave and jun gle en are all true and dedicate vironment. They d professionals. It also gave me the chance to get a deeper understanding of how the cave was first discovered. Khanh inform ed us that he had originally found the cave entrance by accident. He was on his own, deep in the Truong Son mountain range, on a hunting expedition. In those da ys – can seem like centuries which at times ins this fast developing na tead of decades in tion – the people of Binh Tri Thien** were very poor and going to the forest was a me ans to an end, as there were animals, pla nts could help alleviate the and timber that ir poverty.

Ho Khanh was in the mo untains hunting and seeking timber wh en on thunderstorm forced him e afternoon a to seek shelter at the base of a cliff. Th is was located at the enclosed end of a valley on the Rao Thuong River. As he sheltered in an overhang from the cliff he coming out of the sam noticed clouds e cliff about 30 metres to his left. When the storm had passed and on closer inspection, he

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discovered a cave entra nce with a tremendou s win Having no access to po rtable lights in those da d roaring inside of it. ys the rest of the kinfolk in his hunting party, Kh and being detached from anh only ventured in a metres before he had few to rejoin the rest of his party when it started dark and the tigers wo to grow uld come out to play.

Years later, when Khan h the caves of Quang Bin realised how passionate the British were ab out h, he remembered the cav entrance and went ba ck looking for it. He spe e with the noisy clouded nt most of 2008 and ha 2009 looking for the en lf of trance before he finally found it. The Limberts fellow cavers went the and re with him in late 2009 but only made it as far the immense wall near as to the exit. They went back Geographic film and ma gazine team and finally in 2010 with a National conquered what they called “the Great Wall of Vie aptly equipment that this wa tnam”, also proving with a series of sophistic s in fact the world’s lar ated gest cave. And now Kh the famous man at the anh is end of the street in So n Trach Village. He is a man and an interestin humble g bu and the ins and outs of shman with a wealth of knowledge of the jun the Phong Nha cave sys gle tem.

Besides harbouring the the Deer Cave in Malay largest cave in the world by volume – ahead sia which held the pre of vious record – Quang also host to the longe Binh is st riv to be on the same river er cave in the world, named Khe Ry. Both ha ppen course and are within close proximity to eac The reason this area ha h other. s so Howard Limbert – is the many large caves – according to specialist de rainfall. Another contrib pth and purity of the limestone and the he avy uti the Laos side of the bo ng factor is the large catchment for water ov rder with a base that is er not sandstone. This combin ation has led to the for permeable limestone, but mation of such mamm caverns. oth

Khe Ry was discovered and explored first in 19 1999, again by a team 97 and followed up in from the British Cavin g Association. In a rec interview, Deb Limbert ent told me just how dang erous those first exped through Khe Ry were. itions The cave is 19.8km lon g and once you are in it takes a number of da there ys before you can get ou t, all downstream. The catchm ent area feeding the cav the time heading to a different weather pattern so the water lev e is in Laos and subject els dramatically – flash flo oding is the norm rathe in the cave can change r than the exception. Tw the team got caught for o of da to get them out on the ys between sumps and a rescue team strug gled first trip, while almost everyone else on both expeditions became ill from footrot and lack of food and clean water .

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In addition to these caves, Quang Binh province has a multitude of rivers forming caves throughout the Western edge of the karst mountains.

The more notable cave systems on these rivers are: 1) Phong Nha System, home: to Hang En, Khe Ry, Hang Son Doong, Hang Toi and Phong Nha Cave 2) The Vom system which is home to Vietnam’s new and most spectacular tourism attraction, the “Paradise Cave”.

3) The Nouc Moc System which finishes at the swimming and bushwalking tourism site as a massive spring pouring up beside the Ho Chi Minh Trail at the “Nouc Moc Eco Trail”. Very little is known about this system and the British Caving Association are planning a concerted effort to explore it in early 2014 with expedition members coming from all over the world.

4) The Tu Lan System in the district of Minh Hoa in the north of the province has recently been opened up to tourism. In January 2012, a Dutch tourist named Kim found a cave there. The cave is now officially registered and locally known as Hang Kim. The caves mentioned above or parts of them are now available to be visited by tourists. And while the area is new to foreign tourism, it is rapidly opening up and gaining more publicity through guidebooks, magazines and blogs from intrepid travellers. There are now numerous guest houses and homestays in the villages of the buffer zone surrounding the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park; a UNESCO-listed World Heritage Area.

Phong Nha Farmstay is run by my wife and I with her family and half the village around us. It is a colonial style villa in a rural setting with modern amenities like a pool, bar and restaurant. It’s located on a dirt track just off the Ho Chi Minh Trail to the Southeast of the national park. If you want to see something new and exciting in the world, there are caves and jungle excursions for all levels and it’s an amazing feeling to get off the usual tourist route through Vietnam. We are here and waiting to show you what this unique area has to offer! My personal favourite day out is a bike ride to “The Pub With Cold Beer” in Bong Lai Valley. This involves a home-grown, home-cooked lunch, tubing down the Bung River and heaven forbid, a cold beer or two! * A doline is a bloody big hole in the roof of the cave that lets in shedloads of light so the jungle can grow inside the cave 100s of meters below the surface of the earth. **The old name for the provinces of QuangBinh, Quang Tri and Hue.

Contact Ben or Bich Mitchell at either the Phong Nha Farmstay (phongnhafarmstay@gmail.com) or Easy Tiger Hostel (easytigerphongnha@gmail.com).

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Discovering Da Nang

Da Nang

Da Nang is Vietnam’s third largest city and has seen a vast increase in business development and tourism over the last few years. The coastal area of Da Nang was a famous rest and recreation point for US marines during the war. Today the beaches are still clean and expansive, stretching all the way to Hoi An. But Da Nang has other attractions worth visiting too. The city has international standard shopping malls, a cinema, sports facilities and a variety of restaurants and bars. Literally at the centre of Vietnam, it is a city where the cosmopolitan and the cultural combine.

GETTING TO DA NANG: Taxis can be pricey if you’re going to Da Nang, generally hovering around the 350,000-400,000VND mark for one way. If you want a private car, it will be cheaper – around 250,000VND for one way. If you want to stay in town for a couple of hours then you can negotiate a return price. Alternatively, there is the yellow bus which leaves from just off Nguyen Tat Thanh St (see our Hoi An map) which should cost no more than 30,000VND one way.

Cultural Attractions: • Cham Museum: On the corner of Trung Nu Vuong and Bach Dang streets, this museum harbours the oldest relics of the Cham era in Vietnam. If you go to My Son, you should complement your trip with a visit to this museum which has some impressive sandstone sculptures of ancient Hindu icons.

Bars/Dining: • Al Fresco's: The newly opened Al Fresco's restaurant in central Da Nang serves up their now internationally famous fare in a modern setting, befitting of the city. Their 'man size portion' mantra makes it's mark on the extensive menu including their spectacular jumbo ribs, fresh homemade pizzas with generous toppings, succulent steaks, authentic Tex-Mex dishes, big burgers, traditional pastas and fresh salads. Located on Tran Phu St., a stones throw from The Han Market the friendly Aussie style hospitality will lure you in time after time. 178 Tran Phu Street, Hai Chau, Da Nang. Tel: +84 (0) 511 356 6866 • Apsara Restaurant: This gourmet Vietnamese restaurant is well-known and boasts an exceptional number of fine Vietnamese dishes. They often have live music too. 222 Tran Phu, Da Nang. (0511) 3561 409, www. apsaradanang.com • Bamboo2 Bar: Diem is every expats favourite bar owner! Bamboo2 has an unrivalled atmosphere of good cheer that is complemented by Diem’s own

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Discovering Da Nang

personality and that of her cool staff. By far the best place to hangout in Da Nang for a few drinks, its location is also perfect along the river. Bamboo2 offers a decent menu of burgers, steak sandwiches, toasties, pizzas and Vietnamese dishes. Diem’s comprehensive music selection and playlists are second to none. 216 Bach Dang St, Da Nang, Open 11am til Late.

• Beachfront Seafood Restaurants: From My Hung, Blue Whale to Phuoc My 2 (yes, pronounced that way), there are a series of higher end (in Vietnamese terms) seafood restaurants that line the shore of My Khe beach. Each of them have aquarium tanks for you to choose your fresh oceanic specialty. Turn right at the end of Pham Van Dong St. • Billabong Pub: An Aussie-style pub, built with beautiful timber furnishings, this venue offers a decent menu of different beers and classic pub food. Their pizzas, steaks, fish and chips and Aussie meat pies are but a few of the locally-recommended dishes. Billabong is usually open late and regularly screens live sports events. 34 An Thuong 1, 0511 260 2006, www.thebillabongdanang.com • Bread of Life: The esteemed Bread of Life cafe is a Da Nang institution.

They offer a fabulous menu of pizzas, burgers, pastas and ‘comfort foods’ for expats. They bake their own bread and cakes, you can make-to-order and they do delivery. Most of the staff are deaf and the proceeds go to training the deaf in the Da Nang and surrounding areas. 4 Dong Da, Da Nang (0511) 3565 185, Open Mon-Sat 6am to 10pm.

• Golden Dragon Chinese Restaurant: Serving the best Dim Sum buffet in town every weekend, this excellent Chinese restaurant offers fantastic views over Da Nang city. Call to enquire about the free shuttle bus service from Hoi An. Lot A1, Green Island, Tel: + 84 (511) 3797 777 http://www. mercure-danang.com • Golden Pine: A preferred after hours hangout with both expats and Vietnamese locals, Golden Pine is run by the affable Hiep. His bar sports a pool table, dance floor and the usual menu of drinks and pub food. The kitchen is open until the bar closes and the bar closes when the last person has left! 52 Bach Dang St, Danang.

• Le Bambino: Unmatched French fare and other international dishes feature on the menu of this well-known local favourite. The filet mignon, BBQ and pasta dishes are all exceptional, as well as the wine list. Owned and managed by a French-Vietnamese couple. They also have modern accommodation (rooms were recently built) and a pool courtyard. 112/11 QuangTrung, Da Nang.(0511) 3896 386. http://www.lebambino.com • Luna Pub: Extensive Italian food menu including their thin crust pizzas, cocktails, wine and imported beers, Luna is a popular night spot often with live entertainment. Their main dishes including steak and veal are also worth a sample. One metre shooter slab (12 shots) for 200,000VND all homemade, high quality shots. Home and office deliveries. 9A Tran Phu St, 093 2400 298 • Mumtaz Indian Restaurant: Da Nang’s first Indian restaurant, Mumtaz boasts a large range of Northern and Southern Indian dishes, including dosas! Their Thali sets are also superb. Mumtaz will deliver in Da Nang and for a minimum order of 250,000 VND will even deliver to Hoi An. 231 Tran Phu, 0511 3839 888 • Red Sky Restaurant & Bar: Three chefs came together to create this restaurant which offers gourmet dining but in a relaxed, comfortable

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atmosphere. Their collective background in 5-star resorts ensures a spectacular menu – steak and lamb dishes are very popular (if you can use ‘gorgeous’ as an adjective for the tenderloin then, the it is stunningly gorgeous ). Besides red meats they offer an eclectic menu with hints of Vietnamese flavours too. The passionfruit soufflé on the dessert menu (one partner is a pastry chef) is just exquisite and a must-try for anyone with a sweet tooth. 248 Tran Phu St Da Nang, 05113-894-895 • SAMDI Chinese Restaurant: An elegant and upmarket Chinese restaurant offering fine dining in a beautifully restored building complete with a pianist to entertain whilst you enjoy your meal. 292 Phan Chau Trinh St, Da Nang.

• Soho Bar & Restaurant: A combination of entertainment and excellent dining, Soho is located next to the Dragon Bridge on the riverside opposite from the busy stretch of Bach Dang street. Downstairs punters can enjoy a myriad of activities (live music on the weekends, pool competitions, beer pong and more) with a comprehensive beer and cocktail selection. Bar food is Tex Mex. Upstairs is a bona fide Thai restaurant with a proper Thai chef – Live Hoi An highly recommends this venue for Thai food. It is possibly the best in Vietnam. 463 Tran Hung Dao St, Da Nang, 0511 3945 759.

• Syrena: Dine on sumptuous Cantonese cuisine (proper Hong Kong style) with seafood classics such as Crab in Claypot, Eel in XO sauce, Lobster and more. The restaurant has three floors with a rooftop, a pool and an open kitchen plus sushi station.1C-1D Hoang Sa – Son Tra (along the beachfront restaurant boulevard at My Khe) +84 (0) 511.247.338 / 3942.934 www.syrena-restaurant.com • Tulip Czech Beer: A large European style beer hall serving great dark and light beer brewed on site. Also has an extensive variety of food including Vietnamese fare and house specials such as German sausages.

They recently renovated so the atmosphere is now bright and cheery – very beery! 174 September 2nd (2/9) Street, Da Nang, Open 11am – 11pm.

• Waterfront Restaurant & Bar: This slick bar on the Bach Dang riverside in Da Nang is fast becoming the cities’ hottest wining and dining venue.

Expect excellent cocktails, a comprehensive wine list and a well-executed bistro style menu. The design of the restaurant is exceptional, creating a contemporary, minimalistic style with Asiatic touches. Happy hours are daily from 5.30-6.30pm for selected cocktails only. 150 Bach Dang, Da Nang, 0511 3843 373, open everyday from 11am – midnight.

Entertainment: • Bowling: A great indoor sport anytime of the year (and especially during the rainy season), this bowling alley is also cheap! If you play between the hours of 9-5pm than you can get 20 balls (the equivalent of one game) for only 20,000VND and shoe hire is 5,000VND. After 5pm it’s 25,000 VND per game. 4th Floor, Co-op Mart, 46 Dien Bien Phu St, 0511 3647 050 • Megastar Cineplex: Da Nang’s best selection of current movies that are not dubbed in Vietnamese! Level 4, VinhTrung Plaza, 255-257 Hung Vuong St 0511- 3.666. 222 www.megastar-media.net

Nightclubs: • New Phuong Dong: A night out in Da Nang is not complete without a visit to this famous discotheque. While ‘boom boom’ techno music, laser

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lights and extra-friendly female bar hosts may not be your idea of a savoury night venue, the infectiously fun atmosphere at New Phuong Dong will win you over. It’s not for every weekend, but definitely worth a once in a while visit (after you’ve already lubricated your spirits in a few other bars first). 20 Dong Da St, +84 (511) 825092, www.newphuongdong.com • Seventeen Saloon: A large saloon style place has live music every night, a dance floor and regular special events. It is an interesting mix of bar and nightclub and is becoming quite popular among locals and foreigners.

Z76 Tran Hung Dao St, 0511 6285 017, www.seventeensaloon.com.vn

Shopping: • Indochina Riverside Towers: Is home to residences, offices and a Western style shopping mall. There are some very upmarket retail outlets alongside two stylish cafes; Highlands and Segafredo. 74 Bach Dang, Da Nang. www.indochinariverside.com • Big C Supermarket: This is inside a 4-storey shopping complex with a supermarket, small retail shops, Highlands café as well as Lotteria and KFC restaurants. Megastar Cinema is located on the 4th floor. Corner of Hung Vuong and Ong Ich Khiem St, Da Nang.

• Lotte Mart: You can’t miss the enormous Lotte Mart building on Tien Son street (when you turn from Furama Resort and across the bridge towards Danang downtown) which has both a supermarket, entertainment section and series of restaurants, food court and shops in the department store section. On the top floor there is a bowling alley and rollerskating rink. The supermarket has a decent selection of imported foods including meats from the esteemed butchery in HCMC, Kim Hai. Open from 8am to 10pm daily.

• Metro Cash & Carry: A huge Western style megamart, with many imported items and other household goods not often available in Hoi An. A passport or business license is required to shop here. Cach Mang Thang Tam, Da Nang.

• Han Market: Located right in the center of Da Nang this is a typical Vietnamese market with a lively fresh produce section as well as areas for clothes and household items. Bach Dang, Hung Vuong and Tran Phu St, Da Nang.

Sport • Football: Hire a court for around 300,000 VND per hour. Tuyen Son Sports Center, turn left at the end of 2/9 street, Da Nang.

• Surfing: From October to February the stretch of coast between Da Nang and Hoi An is a great place to get some waves. Boards are available to rent from Tam’s Pub. • Tennis: Hire tennis courts for between 60,000 to 80,000 VND an hour.

Corner of Bach Dang and Quang Trung St, Da Nang.

• Water Sports: The Temple beach bar and restaurant is located at the northern end of My khe beach and offers kayaks, body boards, parasailing, wake boarding and a dive pool. It’s a beautiful spot to spend the day and is great for families. Prices start from 300,000VND per kayak. My Khe beach.

Soho

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All the fashion in Danang dining Amy Morison When one thinks of the name ‘Soho’ images of the trendy suburbs with the same name in London, New York and Hong Kong spring to mind.

Fashionable dining and clubbing scenes where all the cool kids hang. Well, now Danang has its own Soho in the form of a venue that boasts both unique dining and entertainment options and is opportunely located on the east side of the river next to the dazzling Dragon Bridge. If you haven’t ventured there yet, don’t admit to the fact (danger, danger, dork alert!) and get to it immediately!

Soho was opened in July this year by a small group of friends – Dang Thi Nhu Y and her husband Harry Lee co-own the venue with existing restaurateurs of Red Sky, chef Alex Stapfer and his wife Thu – who wanted to create a vibrant hangout spot that was different to anything else in Danang. They’ve certainly achieved this goal with Soho which comprises a Thai restaurant, Western bar, Mexican menu, sports saloon and dance club all in the one building! It may seem like a strange mix, but it works, and the location (on the opposite side of the river from the restaurant-lined Bach Dang street) makes for a refreshing change.

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Discovering Da Nang

Enter the downstairs bar of Soho and you are greeted with a spacious area lined with slick booths, a sports corner (pool table, darts), a central circular bar with disco ball and a long drinking bar edging the southern wall. It is certainly roomy enough for a pumping party and the owners are already luring locals with amusing activities such as beer pong, an ongoing slider’s competition, a regular pool competition, pub quiz, Friday night ‘Ladies’ night’ and Saturday nights filled with live music and DJs. Not to mention the daily happy hours that span from 4 to 7pm where one can enjoy unlimited draft beer for just 100,000VND. Forget London, Dylan Thomas would have had a field day in Danang’s Soho!

With over 40 beers in their repertoire, Soho officially has the largest beer selection in Central Vietnam as well as an impressive margarita list (over 10 types). To match their bar drinks, they offer a more-thandecent menu of Tex Mex classics such as chilli, burritos, nachos, sliders and tacos (all around the 100,000VND mark), as well as American comfort food including the hot dog and pulled pork sandwich (60,000VND and 70,000VND respectively). Alex’s reputation from Red Sky should precede him – you could order anything from the different Soho menus and be assured of its quality.

Importantly, on the upper level, Soho boasts an authentic Thai restaurant with chef Chanyuth Suwannaka plating up dishes that are on par with the best of the local restaurants in Bangkok. As a former editor of a prominent Bangkok lifestyle magazine and Thailand resident of 4 years, this author does not make that remark lightly.

We first sampled the Thai beef salad (made with imported Australian beef) a piquant combination of grilled beef, onion, celery and a lime chilli dressing (190,000VND). Unlike many a Thai establishment, the beef was perfectly tender and the spiciness was just right (not toned down to suit the much milder Vietnamese palate). Next, was a Massaman Lamb Curry (180,000VND – the roasted peanut flavour complementing the juicy lamb flawlessly and the flavours obviously made from a homemade paste (not packet or jar bought as most restaurants do).

This was followed by a whole Steamed Red Tilapia fish topped with coriander and served in a light soy and gingery sauce (150,000VND – cooked just right so that the fish fell off the bone and melted in

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the mouth. To complete the meal, we had Thailand’s most famous dessert, Mango Sticky Rice (70,000VND), which was so diabolically divine we almost went into a food coma.

Since the chef knew my personal favourite Thai dish is a salad called Larb Moo (minced pork made with kaffir lime, chillis, ground roasted rice and served with sticky rice and salad), I took a take-away serving for later (70,000VND). A classic northern dish that is renowned for its zest and spiciness, I had been craving Larb Moo since my last trip to Bangkok. Later that evening when I managed to find room in my belly, I polished this off with a beer and I have to say it is one of the best versions of the dish I’ve ever had the pleasure of eating in my life! I’ll definitely be back regularly to Soho until I’ve made it through the rest of the menu. The serving portions are sizable and the prices very reasonable. Thai enthusiasts will be satiated for sure!

Beyond the Mexican and Thai menus, Soho also opens upstairs for breakfast with iconic dishes such as Eggs Benedict (120,000VND) and their own fry-ups (the Soho Breakfast is only 80,000VND which includes eggs, bacon, tomatoes and toast).

The restaurant is closed on Monday but otherwise, the opening hours are as follows – Western breakfast upstairs from 7-11am, Thai menu served at lunch from 11am-2:30pm and for dinner from 5-10:30pm, while downstairs bar opens from 5pm each day (except Mondays).

Soho Bar & Restaurant 463 Tran Hung Dao St Tel: +84 (0) 511 3945 759 Email: sohodanang@gmail.com

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Index

Activities (Including Adventure Tours, Cooking Class, Diving, Golf and Travel Agencies)

Adventure Tours

Agri-Travel Country Experience Tour 221 Cua Dai Rd Looking Glass Jeep Tours 38 An Thuong 5, Da Nang Hoi An Eco Tour Phuoc Hai Fishing Village Cua Dai Beach Hoi An Free Tour 127 Phan Chau Trinh Hoi An Hoi An Motorbike Adventures 54A Phan Chau Trinh St

Hoi An “Love of Life” Bicycle Tour 95 Phan Chau Trinh St Hoi An Photo Tour 36 Nguyen Cong Tru St Heaven & Earth Bicycle Tour 57 Ngo Quyen St Local Man (Thinh) Bicycle Tours Vintage URAL Motorbike Sidecar Tour Cua Dai Beach, Victoria Resort

Cooking Class /Tasting Tour

Dao Tien Cooking Class GODA Restaurant Green Bamboo Cooking Class Green Mango Cooking Class Hai Café Lantern Town Morning Glory Taste of Hoi An Tour Red Bridge Cam Thanh Sakura Restaurant

Diving

Blue Coral Diving Center Cham Island Diving Center

Golf

Da Nang Golf Club Montgomerie Links Dien Ngoc

Travel Agencies

Alex Bu Travel Fairy Way Travel Go Travel VietNam Hoi An Buffalo Travel Agency Hoi An Travel Hoi An Windows Tour Impression Travel Le Nguyen Travel Ly’s Travel Mr Hung Travel Pink Cloud-Air Booking Office Sinh Café Tour Service Son My Son Tour TM Brother & Camel Travel Tran Nhu Phuong Travel Vietlantern Travel Viet Ao Travel

Dining 3 Dragons Al Fresco Restaurant Ancient Faifo Restaurant Apsara Restaurant Baby Mustard Restaurant Bale Well Bamboo Buddha Café Banana Leaf Restaurant Banana Split Restaurant Banyan Bar Bazar Café Billa Bong Before and Now Blue Dragon Restaurant Blue Gecko Restaurant

0510 3939 888 012 0440 9665 01234 3331111 0510 2222 773 0510 3911 930 0918 230 653 0510 3939 399 0905 671 898 0510 3864 362 0919 882 783 0510 3927 040

19/4 Phan Boi Chau St 308 Cua Dai Cam An Hoi An 54 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 98 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 49 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 106 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 108 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Hamlet 4 119-121 Nguyen Thai Hoc St

0510 3914 996 0510 923644 0905 815 600 0510 3929 918 0510 3862 210 01239 912291 0510 2241 555 0905 382 783 0510 3933 222 0510 3910 369

77 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 88 Nguyen Thai Hoc St

0510 6279 297 0510 3910 782

Son Tra, Dien Ngoc Dien Ban

0511 3958 111 0510 3941 942

621 Hai Ba Trung St 621 Hai Ba Trung St 61 Phan Chau Trinh St 542 Cua Dai Rd 10 Tran Hung Dao St 85 Tran Cao Van St 617 Hai Ba Trung St 32 Le Loi St 77 Ba Trieu St 68 Tran Hung Dao St 47 Tran Hung Dao St 587 Hai Ba Trung St 19 Tran Hung Dao St 50 Tran Hung Dao St 621 Hai Ba Trung St Cua Dai Beach 38 Thai Phien St

0510 3917 986 0510 3939 949 0906 151 281 0510 3914 243 0510 3910 911 0510 3916 763 0510 3862 333 0510 3916 218 0510 3917 666 0510 3862 911 0510 3919 111 0510 3863 948 0510 3864 864 0510 2211 974 0510 3916 270 0905 121 243 0510 3911 414

(Including both Bars and Restaurants) 51 Phan Boi Chau St 43 Nguyen Phuc Chu St 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc 222 Tran Phu St, Da Nang Hai Ba Trung 45/11 Tran Hung Dao St 40 Nguyen Phuc Tan, An Hoi Islet 88 Bach Dang St 53 Hoang Dieu St 11, An Bang Beach 36 Tran Phu St 34 An Thuong 1 St, Da Nang 51 Le Loi St 46 Bach Dang St 341 Nguyen Duy Hieu Hoi An

0510 3914 742 0510 3929 707 0510 3917 444 0511 3561 409 0935 725 740 0510 3864 443 0510 2223 300 0510 3861 346 0510 3861 136 0935 100 337 0510 3911 229 0511 2602 006 0510 3910 599 0510 3910 742

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Bo Bo Restaurant 18 Le Loi St Bread of Life 4 Dong Da St, Da Nang Brother's Café 27-29 Phan Boi Chau St Cao Cao Grasshopper Bar and Restaurant 06 Cua Dai Road Can Café 74 Bach Dang St Café Des Amis 52 Bach Dang St Café 43 43 Tran Cao Van St Café 96 96 Bach Dang St Cargo Club 107-109 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Casa Verde 504 Cua Dai Road Cat Bien Restaurant Bai Ong Village, Cham Island Cat Tien Sa Floating Boat Restaurant 252 Bach Dang St, Da Nang Cat Tien Museum Restaurant Lot 6-7 Xuan Thieu Villa, Da Nang Cava Brasserie 53 Nguyen Phuc Chu St Champa Restaurant Le Belhamy Hamlet 1, Dien Duong,

Dien Ban Dist Cinnamon Cruise 124 Tran Phu St Chips N Fish N Stuff 1 Nguyen Phuc Chu, An Hoi Citronella Café 05 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St Coco Café 662 Hai Ba Trung Hoi An Cool Spot Restaurant 112 Tran Phu St Dac San Hoi An Restaurant 89 Tran Phu St Dao Tien Restaurant 19/4 Phan Boi Chau St Day & Night Café 42 Tran Cao Van St Dingo Deli Café 229 Cua Dai Rd Dive Café 88 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Duck Cafe 59 Nguyen Phuc Chu St, An Hoi Dong Thuan Bakery 409 Cua Dai Rd End of the World Phuoc Hai Fishing Village, Cua Dai Beach Enjoy ice Cream 13 Nguyen Phuc Chu, An Hoi Faifoo Restaurant 104 Tran Phu St Festival Night Café 11 Pham Hong Thai St Family Restaurant Café 108 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Fullmoon Towns 101 Cua Dai Rd Fusion Lounge 35 Nguyen Phuc Chu, An Hoi Islet Ganesh Indian Restaurant 24 Tran Hung Dao St Gidino Café 113 Ba Trieu St

0510 3861 939 0511 3565 185 0510 3914 150 0510 3861 525 0510 3861 616 0510 3862 587 0510 3910 441 0510 3911 227 0510 3864 563 0511 3945 519 0510 3911 646 0510 3941 888 0510 3623 777 0510 2241 491 0511 3824 040 0510 3861 533 0510 3914 996 0510 3916 760 0906 552 824 0510 3910 782 0510 3924 988 0510 3862 298 0935 211 382 0510 3861 548 0510 3915 115 0510 3862 279 0510 3923 922 0510 3930 333 0510 3864 538 0510 3911 167

• WE ARE THE MOST EXPERIENCED DIVE CREW IN HOI AN • WE GO TO SITES WHERE NO OTHER DIVE GROUPS GO • WE OFFER SNORKELING, BEGINNING DIVING AND PADI CERTIFICATION TRIPS • SAFETY IS OUR NUMBER 1 PRIORITY

WE HAVE THE BEST RATES IN TOWN! • FUN DIVE IS 900,000VND X 1 AND 1,500,000VND X 2 • TRY DIVE IS 1,000,000VND X 1 AND 1,600,000VND X 2 SNORKELING 700,000VND • CAMPING 700,000VND ++

All are full day trips & inclusive of: Hotel pick-up/ Boat trip/Equipment/Refreshments & BBQ beach lunch

Office: 0150 627 9297 - Steve: 0935 857 578 - Tuyet: 0905 93 92 91 steve@divehoian.com - www.divehoian.com

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Index

Goda Restaurant Good Morning Vietnam Restaurant Gourmet Garden Café Green Chili Café Green House Restaurant Hyatt Regency Green Mango Restaurant Green Moss Restaurant Hai Café Hawaii Guitar Café Hi Restaurant Highway 4 Restaurant Hoi An Restaurant Hoi An Garden Restaurant Hoi An Hai San Restaurant Kita Guni Restaurant La Plage Beach Restaurant Lantern Town Restaurant Laugh Café L’Annam, Victoria Resort Le Ba Truyen II Restaurant Le Bon Café Little Menu Luna d’Autunno Luna Pub Luong Gia Restaurant Mai Fish Mango Rooms Mango Mango Market (The) Restaurant Mermaid Restaurant Mien’s Restaurant Ngoc Tuyet Restaurant Minh Hien Quan Chay Restaurant Miss Ly Café Mi Casa Moon Restaurant Morning Glory Restaurant Morning Star Restaurant Ms Nam Nam Long Restaurant Number One Pizza Nuong Than One Moment Cafe Orivy Pho Xua Phoung Banh Mi Stall Quang Thang Restaurant Reaching Out Tea House Red Bridge Restaurant Red Dragon Red Gecko Restaurant 328 Sakura Restaurant Samovar Russian Restaurant Samurai Kitchen Secret Garden Restaurant Soho Bar, Mexican & Thai Restaurant Solo Son Restaurant Song Do Restaurant Soul Kitchen Restaurant STREETS International Café Sun Shine Café Tam Tam Café Tao Do Restaurant Taste of Hoi An Terrace Café, Palm Garden Resort Thanh Hien Café Thanh Nhi Café The Island Restaurant The Raw Energy Cafe Thi Nhan Seafood Restaurant

308 Cua Dai 0510 923644 102 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3910 227 55 Le Loi St 0510 3962 999 122 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3928 199 Da Nang 0511 398 1234 54 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3929 918 155 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 0510 3863 728 98 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3863 210 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 0935 116 147 15 Nguyen Phuc Chu 09325 39902 111 Ba Trieu 0510 3934 567 89 Tran Phu St 0510 3861 533 246-248 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 0510 3924 779 64 Bach Dang St 0510 3861 652 41 Nguyen Chi Thanh St 0511 3898 210 An Bang Beach 0510 3928 244 49 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 01239 912 212 126 Tran Cao Van St 0510 3917 139 Cua Dai Beach 0510 3927 040 12 Ba Trieu St 0510 3864 463 320 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 0510 3861919 12 Le Loi Street (84) 945 568 568 Lot 06 An Bang Beach 01272 840 053 9A Tran Phu St, Da Nang 093 2400 298 34 Le Loi St 0510 3911 899 45 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 111 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3910 839 45 Nguyen Phuc Chu St 0510 3911 863 2 Nguyen Hoang St 02 Tran Phu St 0510 3861 527 Right side before the parking lots, An Bang 43 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 3861 673 50 Tran Cao Van St 22 Nguyen Hue St 0510 3861 603 Lac Long Quan, Hoi An 0510 905998363 321 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 0510 2241 396 106 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 2241 555 48 Bach Dang St 0510 3861 651 Nguyen Phuc Chu Hoi An 103 Cua Dai Rd 0510 3923 723 57 Nguyen Phuc Chu, An Hoi 0510 3924 924 280 Ly Thuong Kiet St 13 Bach Dang St 510 3939 567 587/1 Cua Dai Road 0510 650 6979 35 Phan Chau Trinh 0903 112 237 Hoang Dieu St Hoi An 90 Back Dang St 0510 3862 130 131 Tran Phu St Hamlet 4, Cam Thanh Village 0510 3933 222 332 Cua Dai Road 0510 864 119 Nguyen Hoang St, An Hoi 0120 815 4113 328 Cua Dai Road 0510 386 209 119-121 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3910 369 73 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 0510 3939 373 Tieu La St 01228 504 627 132/2 Tran Phu St 0510 2212 640 463 Tran Hung Dao St 0511 3945 759 468 Cua Dai Road 0983 454 100 177 Cua Dai Rd 0510 3861 172 175 Cua Dai Rd 0510 3864 800 Far left, An Bang Beach 01229 292 922 17 Le Loi St 0510 3911 949 46 Tran Cao Van St 0510 3916 902 110 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3862 212 29 Ba Trieu St 905 117 793 108 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 01217 621 693 Cua Dai Beach 0510 3927 927 113 Bach Dang St 0510 3862 134 404 Cua Dai Rd 0510 3923 346 Dong Hiep, An Hoi Islet 0510 3919 599 45 Cua Dai St 0905293963 28 Cua Dai Rd 0510 3862 261

147

Thuan Y Restaurant 94 Bach Dang St Treats Garden BBQ Restaurant 158 Tran Phu St Trung Bac Restaurant 87 Tran Phu St Twist Restaurant 29 Cua Dai Rd Van Loc Restaurant 27 Tran Phu St Vetiver Restaurant 580 Cua Dai Rd Vi Café 113 Tran Hung Dao St Vina Ngon Restaurant 399a Cua Dai Street Voulez – Vous 631 Hai Ba Trung St Waterfront Café 150 Bach Dang St, Da Nang Water Wheel Tra Que Herb Village White Caps Beach Club & Bistro Ocean Villas White Lotus Restaurant 11 Phan Boi Chau St Hoi An White Marble 98 Le Loi St White Rose Restaurant 533 Hai Ba Trung St White Sail Café 134 Tran Cao Van St Yellow Flower Café 104 Bach Dang St Yellow River Restaurant 38 Tran Phu St

0510 3863 179 0905 135820 0510 3864 622 0510 3861 212 0510 3929 333 0510 3917 861 0510 3927 339 0511 3843 373 0511 3967 094 0510 3501 009 0510 3911 862 0510 3862 784 0510 3915 569 0510 3241 341 0510 3861 053

Accommodation Anantara Hoi An Resort Agribank Resort An Bang Seaside Village An Hoi Hotel An Huy Hotel An Phu Hotel Bamboo Riverside Resort Bach Dang Hotel Betel Garden Homestay B’Lan Homestay Boutique Hotel Boutique Hoi An Resort Block Cua Dai Hotel Dai Long Hotel Frangipani Village Resort Hamlet Furama Resort Fusion Maia Glory Hotel

01 Pham Hong Thai St Tan Thinh, Cam An Ward An Bang Beach 69 Nguyen Phuc Chu St 30 Phan Boi Chau St 288 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 83/09 Nguyen Dieu Hieu St, Hoi An 01 Nguyen Tat Thanh St Tran Nhan Tong 95 Nguyen Truong To 16 Ba Trieu St Tan Thinh, Ward Cam An 544 Cua Dai Rd 680 Hai Ba Trung St 5,Cam Thanh 68 Ho Xuan Huong St, Da Nang Truong Sa Street, Da Nang 538 Cua Dai Rd

0510 3914 555 0510 3927 729 0906 660 309 0510 3911 888 0510 3862 116 0510 3914 345 0510 3917 801 0510 392 4165 0510 3916 545 0510 393 9111 0510 3862 231 0510 3916 232 0510 3933 933 0511 3847 888 0511 3967 999 0510 3914 444

148

Index

Golden Sand Resort Grassland Hotel Green Field Hotel Ha An Hotel Hai Au Hotel Hai Yen Hotel Hoa Binh Hotel Hoa My Hotel Hoang Trinh Hotel Hoi An Ancient House Resort Hoi An Beach Resort Hoi An Chic Hotel Hoi An Hotel Hoi An Lantern Hotel Hoi An Pacific Hotel Hoi An Riverside Resort Hoi An Trade Union Hotel Hoi An Trails Resort Hop Yen Hotel Hoi Pho Hotel Huy Hoang II Hotel Huy Hoang River Hotel La Tonnelle B&B Hyatt Resort

Laguna Lang Co Beach Resort Le Belhamy Resort Le Domaine De Tam Hai Resort Little Boutique Long Life Hotel Long Life Hotel Lotus Hotel Marina Hoi An Resort Mercure Hotel Minh Quang Hotel My Chau Hotel Nam Hai Resort Nhat Huy Hoang Hotel Nhi Nhi Hotel Nhi Trung Hotel Orchid Garden Home Stay Palm Garden Resort Phuong Dong Hotel Phuoc An I Phuoc An II River Hotel Phu Thinh II Hotel Pho Hoi I Hotel Pho Hoi Riverside Resort Pulchra Resort Danang

Pullman Da Nang Beach Resort Red Bridge Villa River Beach Resort Sea and Sand Hotel Southern Hotel & Villa Hoi An Sun Flower Hotel Sunrise Resort Cua Sunshine Hotel Thanh Binh I Hotel Thanh Binh III hotel Thanh Van Hotel The Earth Villa The Ocean Villas Thien Nga Hotel Thien Thanh Hotel Thuy Duong III Hotel VaiA Boutique Hotel Van Loi Hotel Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort Vinh Hung I Hotel Vinh Hung II Hotel Vinh Hung III Hotel

Thanh Nien Rd, Cua Dai Beach 500 Hai Ba Trung St 423 Cua Dai Rd 06-08 Phan Boi Chau St 576 Cua Dai Rd 568 Cua Dai Rd 696 Hai Ba Trung St 201 Ly Thuong Kiet St 45 Le Quy Don St 377 Cua Dai Rd 01 Cua Dai Rd Nguyen Trai Street, Cam Chau Ward 10 Tran Hung Dao St 288 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 321 Cua Dai Rd 175 Cua Dai Rd 80 Tran Hung Dao St 276 Cua Dai Rd 103 Ba Trieu St 627 Hai Ba Trung St 87 Hung Vuong St 73 Phan Boi Chau St 44 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St Truong Sa Street, Hoa Hai Ward, Da Nang Beach Lang Co Dien Duong Hamlet, Dien Ban Dist Tam Hai, Nui Thanh Nguyen Phuc Chu St 30 Ba Trieu St 61 Nguyen Phuc Chu, An Hoi Islet 330 Cua Dai Rd An Hoi Lot A1 Green Island DaNang 551 Hai Ba Trung St 04 Tran Cao Van St Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village 58 Ba Trieu St 60 Hung Vuong St 700 Hai Ba Trung St 382 Cua Dai Rd Lac Long Quan St, Cua Dai Beach 42 Ba Trieu St 31/1 Tran Cao Van St 242 Cua Dai Rd 488 Cua Dai Rd 7/2 Tran Phu St Xuyen Trung, Cam Nam Village Lot 22 Truong Sa St, Hoa Hai Ward, Danang Truong Sa Street, Da Nang Hamlet 4, Cam Thanh Village Cua Dai Beach 15 Cua Dai Beach 224 Ly Thai To Street 397 Cua Dai Rd Dai Beach 02 Phan Dinh Phung Hoi An 01 Le Loi St 98 Ba Trieu St 78 Tran Hung Dao St 380 Cua Dai Road Dien Ngoc Coastal Street, Da Nang 52 Ba Trieu St 16 Ba Trieu St 92-94 Ba Trieu St 489 Cua Dai Road Xuyen Trung, Cam Nam Village Cua Dai Beach 143 Tran Phu St Nhi Trung St 96 Ba Trieu St

0510 3927 550 0510 3921 921 0510 3863 484 0510 3863 126 0510 3914 577 0510 3862 445 0510 391 6838 0510 3916 582 0510 3916 579 0510 3923 377 0510 3927 011 0510 3926 799 0510 3861 445 05103 914 345 0510 3923 777 0510 3864 800 0510 3862 370 0510 3923 999 0510 3863 153 0510 3916 382 0510 3916 233 0510 3861 453 0510 3864 432 0511 3981 234 054 3873 555 0510 3941 888 0510 3545 105 0510 386 9999 0510 3916 696 0510 3911 696 0510 3923 357 0510 393 8888 0511 3797 777 0510 3916 230 0510 3916 307 0510 3940 000 0510 3861 665 0510 3916 718 0510 3863 436 0510 3863 720 0510 3927 927 0510 3916 339 0510 3916 757 0510 3924 111 0510 3923 923 0510 3861 633 0510 3862 628 0511 392 0823 0511 395 8888 0510 3933 222 0510 3927 888 0510 3927 999 0510 3923 401 0510 3939 838 0510 3937 777 0510 393 7899 0510 3861 740 0510 3916 777 0510 3916 916 0510 3926 777 0511 3967 094 0510 3916 330 0510 3916 545 0510 3916 565 0510 3916 499 0510 3936 205 0510 3927 040 0510 3861 621 0510 3863 717 0510 3916 277

149

Vinh Hung Emerald Resort Vinh Hung Resort Vuon Trau Family Resort Windbell Homestay An Hoi Hotel An Huy Hotel An Phu Hotel Bamboo Riverside Resort Bach Dang Hotel Betel Garden Homestay B’Lan Homestay Boutique Hotel Boutique Hoi An Resort Block Cua Dai Hotel Dai Long Hotel Frangipani Village Resort Hamlet Furama Resort Fusion Maia Glory Hotel Golden Sand Resort Grassland Hotel Green Field Hotel Ha An Hotel Hai Au Hotel Hai Yen Hotel Hoa Binh Hotel Hoa My Hotel Hoang Trinh Hotel

An Hoi Islet 111 Ngo Quyen, An Hoi Islet Cam Chau Village Chau Trung, Cam Nam 69 Nguyen Phuc Chu St 30 Phan Boi Chau St 288 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 83/09 Nguyen Dieu Hieu St, Hoi An 01 Nguyen Tat Thanh St Tran Nhan Tong 95 Nguyen Truong To 16 Ba Trieu St Tan Thinh, Ward Cam An 544 Cua Dai Rd 680 Hai Ba Trung St 5,Cam Thanh 68 Ho Xuan Huong St, Da Nang Truong Sa Street, Da Nang 538 Cua Dai Rd Thanh Nien Rd, Cua Dai Beach 500 Hai Ba Trung St 423 Cua Dai Rd 06-08 Phan Boi Chau St 576 Cua Dai Rd 568 Cua Dai Rd 696 Hai Ba Trung St 201 Ly Thuong Kiet St 45 Le Quy Don St

0510 3934 999 0510 3910 393 0510 3924 165 0510 3930888 0510 3911 888 0510 3862 116 0510 3914 345 0510 3917 801 0510 392 4165 0510 3916 545 0510 393 9111 0510 3862 231 0510 3916 232 0510 3933 933 0511 3847 888 0511 3967 999 0510 3914 444 0510 3927 550 0510 3921 921 0510 3863 484 0510 3863 126 0510 3914 577 0510 3862 445 0510 391 6838 0510 3916 582 0510 3916 579

SHOPPING (INCLUDING ARTS & CRAFTS, CLOTHING, JEWELLERY, SHOES) ARTS & CRAFTS

(Including Art Galleries, Interior Products, Home Décor, Lanterns and Souvenirs) Ami Gallery Art Gallery

46 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 39 39 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St

0510 3911 963 0510 3862 817

150

Index

Art Gallery Art Gallery Art Gallery Art Gallery 180 Art Handicraft Workshop Au Lac Wood Art Black White Gallery Cam Ly Souvenir Shop Capallano Sculpture Casa Art & Gifts Chan Nhu Gallery Charming Lacquer Shop Diem Kieu Souvenir Shop Duong jewelry & objects, GAM Etienne’s Hoi An Photo Gallery Fine Art Handicraft Workshop Faifo Art Gallery Ha Linh Lantern Shop Hoa Dao Hand Made Hoa Mai Art Gallery Hoi An Agarwood Hoi An Art Handicraft Hoi An Hand Embroidery Hung Dong Art Gallery Hung Long Art Gallery Hung Toan Art-Wooden Kim Bong Craft Kim Bong Handicraf Furniture Lantern Shop Lifestart Foundation Handicrafts Loc An Art Gallery Long Vy Lanterns Jade Rabbit Emporium Mr Binh Souvenir Shop Nam Tran Art Craft Ngan Xua Art Gallery Ngoc Duc Silver Shop Nguyen Tan Hiep Art Gallery Phan Kim Chi Art Gallery Phuc Thanh Gallery Phuoc Tinh Souvenir Shop Reaching Out Handicrafts Red Strawberry Giftshop Same Same But Better Gallery Sparkling Souvenir Shop T-Long Gallery Tay Vien Gallery Thang Loi Fine Arts Handicraft Thanh Cong Art Gallery Thanh Tram Souvenir Shop the O collective TiTi Electronic Shop Tran Phu Lantern Shop Trieu Mask Art Trong Anh Art Gallery Trung Tin Home Furniture Tuoi Ngoc Lantern Tuyen Xuong Loi Souvenir Shop Van Anh Carving & Bamboo Van Toan Souvenir Shop Vina Souvenir Shop Viet Town Artisan Village XQ Vietnam

CLOTHING

A Dong Silk An Cloth Shop Anh Silk Boutique Ao Ba Ba Cloth Shop Asian Cloth Shop Au-A Glasses

86 90 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3910 398 93 93 Phan Chau Trinh St 0510 3862 710 155 155 Tran Phu St 0510 3861 869 180 Tran Phu St 0510 3861 765 09 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3910 216 152 Tran Phu St 0510 3911 092 42 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 0983 040 415 31 Tran Phu St 0510 3911 542 30 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3910 311 25 Phan Boi Chau St 0984 344 914 118 Tran Phu St 0510 3921 395 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3911 554 9 Nguyen Hue St 0510 2222 455 130 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3939 468 42 Phan Boi Chau St 0905 671 898 41 Le Loi St 0510 3862 164 05 Chau Thuong Van St 0510 3861 782 72 Tran Nhan Tong St 0510 3923 037 128 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3910 482 114 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3862 339 186 Tran Phu St 0510 3911 866 09 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3910 216 04 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 0510 3862 235 52 Tran Phu St 0510 3862 902 105 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3861 924 26 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 0905 558 323 Village Trung Ha, Cam Kim Village 0510 3934 282 52 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3861 307 65 Tran Phu St 0510 3861 996 77 Phan Chau Trinh St 0167 355 9447 117 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3910 208 06 Phan Chau Trinh St 0510 3606 611 9 Nguyen Phuc Chu St, An Hoi Island, Hoi An 131 Tran Phu St 0510 3862 179 62 Bach Dang St 0510 3911 461 95 Tran Phu St 0510 3911 467 147 Tran Phu St 0510 3862 390 44 Tran Phu St 0510 3911 077 37 Le Loi St 0510 3910 119 86 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3910 218 13 Tran Phu St 0510 3861 460 103 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3910 168 100 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0906 568 991 298 Le Loi St 0510 3910 294 39 Le Loi St 0905 210011 57 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 0510 3863 457 82 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3910 096 92 Phan Chu Trinh St 0510 3864 610 95 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3863 673 51 Tran Phu St 0510 3911 165 85 Nguyen Thai Hoc St., Hoi An +84 (0)1283 276 993 264 Ly Thuong Kiet St 0510 3864 691 65 Tran Phu St 0510 3861 996 320 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 0510 3861 919 692 Hai Ba Trung St 0989 391 486 130 Ly Thuong Kiet St 0510 3939 939 103 Tran Phu St 0510 3861 920 48 Tran Phu St 0510 3911 048 40 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 0905 113 180 120 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3911 221 62 Tran Phu St 0511 3862 781 127 Phan Chu Trinh St 0510 3917 700 23 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3911 872 (Including Fashion, Boutiques and Tailors) 62 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 3910 579 63 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3911 144 507 Cua Dai Rd 0510 2211 981 148 Tran Phu St 0510 3920 666 572 Cua Dai Rd 0510 3863 911 87 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 01268 400 950

151

AvAna Ba Ba Bam–Bo Cloth Shop Bamboo Green Tailor Bao An Cloth Shop Bao Diep Cloth Shop Bao Khanh Tailor BeBe Cloth Shop Bi Bo Design Bi Hanh Cloth Shop Blue Gecko Cloth Shop Bohemian Luxe Bup Design Cali Design Chic Couture Chic-Unique Cloth Shop Diem Diem Tailor Dong Duong Tailor Dung Tailor Elegant Cloth Shop Everybody’s Fashion Family Clothes Shop Fashion Shop Future Cloth Shop Ginkgo Guy & Gals Cloth Shop Hanh Hung Cloth Shop Happy Cloth Shop Heritage Boutique Hoang Lan Cloth Shop House of Hoi An Hot Chili

Hugo II Cloth Shop

57 Le Loi St 83 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 481 Cua Dai Rd 38 Tran Phu St 64 Ba Trieu St 28 Tran Hung Dao St 101 Tran Hung Dao St 09 Hoang Dieu St 52 Tran Hung Dao St 53 Tran Hung Dao Rd 279 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 11/19 Phan Boi Chau St 68 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 12 Le Loi St 698 Hai Ba Trung St 62 Phan Boi Chau St 55 Tran Hung Dao St 115 Tran Phu St 23 Le Loi St 35 Le Loi St 718 Hai Ba Trung St 86 Ba Trieu St 588 Hai Ba Trung St 586 Cua Dai Rd 59 Le Loi St 17 Tran Hung Dao St 103 Tran Hung Dao St 57 Phan Boi Chau St 29 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 42 Tran Phu St 41 Le Loi St 67 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 43 Tieu La Street 29 Tran Phu St

0510 3911 611 0510 3861 669 0510 2212 315 0510 3861 053 0510 3917 379 0510 3917 078 0510 3861 818 0510 2212 670 0510 3917 923 0905 071 349 0510 3915 789 0908 403 809 0510 3862 165 0510 3911 100 0510 3864 110 0510 3914 187 0510 3861 477 0510 3911 611 0510 3863 865 0510 3911 847 0510 3911 174 0510 3917 227 0905 939 044 0510 3915 186 0908 090 104 0510 3861 947 0510 3910 456 0510 3915 199 0510 3911 777 0510 3910 955 0510 3911 512 0510 3929 553 0510 3916 553

152

Index

Huong Xuan Cloth Shop Impression Boutique Ixora Shop Khoi Cloth Shop Kim Chi Tailor Kim Nhung Cloth Shop Kim Quyen Cloth Shop Ki-nu Kisetsu Lana Stylist

La Vy Cloth Shop Long Silk Luna Cloth Shop Ly Cloth Shop Mac Khai Cloth Shop Mai Ly Cloth Shop Mai Thanh Silk Me Linh Cloth Shop

Metiseko

Minh Tri Tailor Monkey Side My Dieu Cloth Shop MyMy Cloth Shop My Trang Fashion Nam Ngai Silk New Fashion II New World Cloth Shop Ngan Ha Cloth Shop Nhat Silk Ngoc Uyen Silk Nit Tailor I&II Ny Na Boutique Papaya T-Shirt

Papillon Noir Phu Quoc Souvenir Shop Phuoc An Cloth Shop Phuong Huy Cloth Shop Pin Pin Cloth Shop Silk Road Tailor

Song Shop Sova111 Couture & Design Sum Tailor Sun Cloth Shop Tamarind Tree Fine Clothing Thao Nguyen Cloth Shop The Galaxy Tailor the O collective Thinh Thanh Cloth Shop Thong Phi Tailor Tina Design Tony the Tailor Toto Cloth shop Trang Tri Cloth Shop Thu Linh II Tailor Thu Ly Cloth Shop Thu Thuy Silk Thuong Cloth Shop Thuong Gia Tailor Vu Thu Cloth Shop Vy Vy Cloth Shop Stall

08 Le Loi St 70 Tran Hung Dao St 96 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 20 Tran Hung Dao St 90 Le Loi St 166 Nguyen Truong To St 113 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 188/7 Tran Phu St 30 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 130 Tran Phu St 94 & 90 Le Loi St 36 Ba Trieu St 172 Tran Phu St 345 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 55 Phan Boi Chau St 12 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 57 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 112 Tran Phu St 28 Tran Phu St

0510 3861 498 0510 3862 063 0510 2471 191 0510 3861 113 0510 3862 244 0510 3927 135 0510 3862 134 0510 3938 778 0510-3938-778 0510 3911 211 0510 3501 581 0510 3863 400 0510 3928 234 0510 3914 123 0510 3861 397 0510 3862 794 0905 947 417 0510 3861 326

3 Chau Thuong Van St 0510 3929 278 86 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 342 Cua Dai Rd 0510 3241 590 01 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 0510 3929 111 61 Ba Trieu St 0510 3916 980 164 Tran Phu St 0510 3863 816 503 Cua Dai Rd 0510 3862 282 93 Tran Phu St 0510 3861 166 89 Tran Cao Van St 0510 3917 893 70 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3910 300 37 Tran Phu St 0510 3861 764 36 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 3917 909 92 Le Loi St 0510 3863 278 42 Tran Phu St 0510 3910 955 86 Le Loi St 0510 3922 922 1 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 0510 3863 321 627 Hai Ba Trung St 164 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 353 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 76 Tran Phu St 0510 3917 941 162 Tran Phu St 0510 3911 361 06 Le Loi St 0510 3862 615 26 Tran Phu St 0510 3910 425 15 Phan Boi Chau St 0510 3863 280 91 Phan Chau Trinh St 0510 3863 777 91 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3911 058 76 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3916 333 111 Tran Phu St 0510 3911 078 102 Tran Phu St 0510 3863 394 273 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 0510 3861 449 2/6 Le Loi St 0510 3863 784 79 Phan Chau Trinh St 0510 3861357 37 Tran Phu St 0510 3861 764 85 Nguyen Thai Hoc St., Hoi An +84 (0)1283 276 993 53 Le Loi St 0510 3861 426 28 Le Loi St 0510 3861 145 14 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 3914 718 294 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 0510 3861 923 32-34 Ba Trieu St 0510 3864 797 63 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 3911 179 40 Tran Phu St 0510 3241 232 48 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 3864 765 60 Le Loi St 0510 3861 699 16 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 3863 146 41 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3910 712 299 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 0510 3863 975 No1,Hoi An Clothes Market 0510 2211 972

153

Yaly Couture Yamy Cloth Shop Yaly Leather Yen Dung Cloth Shop

47 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 11 Le Loi St 18 Tran Hung Dao St 405 Cua Dai Rd, Hoi An

0510 3910 474 0510 3910 215 0510 3929 279 0905 769 808

78 Le Loi St 27 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 57 Le Loi St 10 Pham Hong Thai St 55 Hoang Dieu St 97 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 23 Hoang Dieu St 62 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 53A Le Loi St 82 Tran Phu St 96A Bach Dang St 12 Tran Quy Cap St 147 Tran Phu St 139 Tran Phu St 57 Le Loi St 636 Hai Ba Trung St 125 Nguyen Duy Hieu St

0510 3910 411 01222 552 912 0510 3911 611 0905 550 062 0510 3862 353 0510 3864 020 0510 3914 135 0510 3910 589 0510 3917 889

JEWELLERY Anh Vu Silver Shop Au Christal D’Hoi An avAna Bac Viet Jewellery Bien Bac Jewellery Joli Jewellery Lac Viet Jewellery Lo Lem Stering Silver Shop Lotus Jewellery

Memory Jewellery No. 1 Jewellery Ngoc Duc Silver Shop Phuc Thinh Jewellery Original Chain of Life Jewellery Quynh Giao Jewellery Water Lily

0510 3911 483 0914 085 075 0510 3862 390 0510 3864 269 0908 043 100 0510 3917 930 0510 3939 394

SHOES Bao Anh Shoes Shop 311 Nguyen Duy Hieu St Bao Long Shoe Shop 18 Nguyen Hue St Dinh Shoe Shop 33 Tran Phu St First Shoe Shop 275 Nguyen Duy Hieu St

Friendly Shoe Shop 18 Tran Phu St Giay Viet Shoe Shop 635 Hai Ba Trung St Hieu Giay Shoes Shop 78 Bach Dang St Hue Kiem Shoes Shop 61 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Levy Shoes Shop 134 Tran Phu St New Fashion Shoe Shop 79 Phan Chu Trinh St Shoe Shop 09 65 Tran Hung Dao St Thien Long Shoe Shop 495 Cua Dai Rd Tin Bag & Shoe Shop 724 Hai Ba Trung St Tong Shoe Shop 26 Phan Boi Chau St Nhi Trung Handbag & Shoe Shop 732 Nhi Trung St

0510 3914 594 0510 2212 483 0510 3911 655 0510 3914 373 0905 385 859 0510 3917 689 0510 6281 351 0510 3863 984 0510 3911 299 0510 3241 723 0510 3863 573 0510 3915 193 0510 3910 223 0510 3915 202 0510 3910 661

Health and Wellness (Including Medical, Spa and Salons, Pharmacy) Aly Spa & Beauty Salon 49 Ba Trieu St Ba Le Well Beauty Salon 45/11 Tran Hung Dao St Bao Tram Spa 496 Cua Dai Rd Countryside Charm Spa 512 Cua Dai Rd Dentist, Nguyen Xuan Hai 13 Le Loi St Dentist, Do Pham Thanh Long 365 Le Duan St, Da Nang Dr: Ho Huu Phuoc 74 Le Loi St East Meets West Dental Center 269 Nui Than St, Da Nang Family Medical Practice 50-52 Nguyen Van Linh St, Da Nang Fusion Lounge Express Spa 35 Nguyen Phuc Chu St Hoi An Day Spa 47 Ba Trieu St Hebe Spa 408 Cua Dai Road Herbalist, Pham Van Can 50 Nguyen Thai Hoc St

Herbalist, Dui-Giao 265 Nguyen Tat Thanh St Hoi An Blind Massage Center 240 Cua Dai Rd Huy Hoang Pharmacy 268 Ly Thuong Kiet St International Dental Clinic (IDC) 577 Nui Thanh St, Da Nang The Spa, Anantara Resort 1 Pham Hong Thai St Minh Tam Pharmacy 04 Tran Hung Dao St Na Spa 463 Cua Dai Rd

0510 3917 972 0914 309 426 0905 999 267 0510 3501 584 0510 3861 513 0511 3705 059 0510 3861 419 0511 3624 222 0511 3582 699 0510 3930 333 0510 2222 723 0510 3920 789 0510 3910 194 01655 041 184 0510 3922 345 0510 3916 312 0511 361 5588 0510 3914 555 0510 3914 606 0510 3914 199

154

Index

Nam Hai Spa Hamlet Nam Son Foot Massage Nina Nails NQ Spa Ona Spa-Beauty Salon Pacific Hospital Palm Spa & Salon Palmarosa Spa Phuong Dong Optical Qi Spa, Palm Garden Resort Sen Nail & Spa Senses Spa SHINE Salon Su Bi Spa Tamarind Spa, Victoria Hotel Tides Spa Tin Duc Clinic Tuan Boy Beauty Salon Vie Hyatt Regency Venus Spa Viet Quoc Optical Zen Spa 216 Pharmacy 230 Pharmacy

Entertainment Bamboo Bar Before & Now Bar Dragon Club Dive Bar Faifo Bar, Victoria Resort Hawaii Guitar Bar Heritage Bar La Plage Beach Bar Moe's Tavern Nam Bar New Phuong Dong Discotheque Q Bar Seventeen Saloon Tam Tam Bar Thanh Hien 3 Dragons Volcano Club White Marble Wine Bar

1, Dien Duong, Dien Ban Dist.

414 Cua Dai Rd 79 Ba Trieu St 446 Cua Dai Rd 45 Ba Trieu St 06 Phan Dinh Phung St Cua Dai Beach 90 Ba Trieu St 14 Tran Hung Dao Cam An Ward 458 Cua Dai Rd 175 Cua Dai Rd 193 Ly Thai To St 93 Ba Trieu St Cua Dai Beach Ocean Villas 215 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 148 Nguyen Truong To St Da Nang 95 Ba Trieu St 106 Ba Trieu St 10 Tran Hung Dao St 03 Thai Phien St 584 Cua Dai Rd

0510 3940 000 0510 3924 939 0510 3501 768 0510 3924 990 0510 3862 890 0510 3921 398 0510 3927 927 0510 3933 999 0123 600 5097 0510 3927 927 0510 3861 819 0510 3864 800 0164 630 0595 0510 3917 884 0510 3927 040 0511 3967 094 0510 3917 819 0905 960 365 0511 398 1234 0510 3501 854 0973 825 229 0510 3911 588 0510 3863 753 0510 3862 302

(Including Nightclubs and Bars) 05 Bach Dang St, Da Nang 51 Le Loi St 16 Ly Thuong Kiet St, Da Nang 88 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Cua Dai Beach Nguyen Duy Hieu St 01 Pham Hong Thai St Far Right, An Bang Beach 130 Tran Cao Van St 61 Nguyen Phuc Chu St 20 Dong Da St ,Da Nang 94 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 76 Tran Hung Dao St, Da Nang 110 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 113 Bach Dang St 51 Phan Boi Chau St 86 Ba Trieu St 98 Nguyen Thai Hoc St

0511 3826 029 0510 3910 599 0511 3887 462 0510 3910 782 0510 3927 040 0935 116 147 0510 3914 555 0510 3928 244 012 0541 2530 01213 141 524 0511 3825 092 0510 3911 964 0511 3530 987 0510 3862 212 0510 3862 134 0510 3914 742 0120 274 7016 0510 3911 862

Books, Computers, DVDs, Mobile Phones, Photo Shop Book Exchange Chanh Binh Photo Shop

43 Phan Boi Chau St 09 Pham Hong Thai St

0510 3861 692 0510 3863 142

155

Kien Vinh Computer Shop Lan Lan Phone Shop Le Gia Computer Shop Legend DVD shop Mr Hung Book Store Phone Shop Photocopy Shop Randy’s Book Exchange Tam Phat Computer Shop Tan Thoi Phone Shop

586 Hai Ba Trung St 150 Nguyen Truong To St 276 Ly Thuong Kiet St 73 Phan Chau Trinh St 06 Nguyen Hue St 18 Ly Thuong Kiet St 189 Ly Thuong Kiet St Cam Nam Village 11 Ba Trieu St 298 Ly Thuong Kiet St

0510 3917 393 0972 757 767 0510 3920 969 0510 3936 159 0510 3910 405 0510 3921 371 0510 3916 109 0936 089 483 0510 3917 952 0510 3934 444

Groceries, Minimarts and Wine Retail Amart AP Mart Bich Thuy Mini Mart & Wine Red Apron Dingo Deli Hanh Nga Mini Mart Near Mister-T Mini Mart Nga Toan Mini Mart Son Toan Mini Mart Trung – Van Wine Shop Tu Huong Groceries Van Toan Groceries Vine Group, Wines and Spirits

552 Hai Ba Trung St 501 Hai Ba Trung St 318 Ly Thuong Kiet St 185 Ly Thuong Kiet St 229 Cua Dai Rd Tan An Market 639 Hai Ba Trung St 78 Dinh Tien Hoang St Hai Ba Trung St 49 Le Loi St 104 Nguyen Truong To St 177 Ly Thuong Kiet St 644 Hai Ba Trung St

0510 6260 168 0982 503 508 0510 3920 899 0510 3917 070 0906 552 824 0510 3917 210 0510 3929 025 0510 3917 210 0510 3919 152 0510 3910 105 0510 3924 563 0510 3861 416 0510 3917 922

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We distribute to over 100 outlets! Find copies of Live Hoi An at: Al Fresco’s, avAna, Banyan, Before N Now, Cargo Club, Cham Island Dive Bar, Da Nang Airport, Danang Golf Club Dingo Deli, Green Chili, Green Mango, Hot Chili, Hyatt Regency Danang, JBC, La Plage, Life Heritage Resort, Lotus Jewellery, Montgomerie Links, Morning Glory, Palmarosa, Soul Kitchen, STREETS, Tam Tam, Victoria Hotel, Waterfront, White Marble, Yaly… to name just a few.

156

Index

Emergency, Hospitals & Useful Numbers Hoi An is a fairly laid back place with problems rarely surfacing, however, we have listed some numbers below should you have any health, safety or other concerns. If you have any feedback for us do not hesitate to email info@ livehoian.com Hoi An Police: Tel: +84 (0) 510 3861 204 Hoi An Tourist Authority: (0510) 3861 327

Hospitals Pacific Hospital Hoi An: (0510) 3921 656 24 Hour Emergency: 0903 597 997 Hoi An Hospital: (0510) 3861 365 Da Nang General Hospital: (0511) 3828 357 Da Nang Family Medical Practice: (0511) 3582 699/700 24 Hour Emergency: 0913 917303

Taxi Services Mai Linh Taxi Corporation: (0510) 391 4914 Faifoo Taxi: (0510) 391 9191

Reporting Crime The department of Foreign Affairs and the Da Nang Police Department have worked together to give foreigners in the area English speaking hotlines for use in emergencies. Please note they make not take on cases within Hoi An, but only within the Da Nang province – the main contact details are listed below: 78 Le Loi St, Da Nang Tel: +84 (0)5113 860247 Crime Tel: +84 (0)905 113038 Foreign Affairs Tel: +84 (0) 5113 743791 Immigration

Useful contacts Immigration office (visa extension): +84 (0) 510 391 0093

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157

Boutiques: 86 Nguyen Thai Hoc & 3 Chau Thuong Van 9.00am - 9.30pm