Textile World November/December 2023

Picanol placed

11/16/23

3:42 AM

Page 1

PaperTale: Blockchain For Social Change AT Expo 2023 2024 Events Calendar

November/December 2023 Founded 1868

American Dornier

Technology Day 2023

Technology Updates

• Digital Printing • Dyeing & Finishing

Quality Fabric Of The Month:

Adizero Control x RHEON™

Picanol placed

11/15/23

1:46 PM

Page 1

Be confident* *and experience the disruptive design of the all-new, revolutionary Ultimax.

www.picanol.be

TOC2.qxd

11/16/23

12:53 AM

Page 4

November/December 2023 TextileWorld.com

A

Founded 1868

Publication

Features

ON THE COVER: A garment printed using Israel-based Kornit Digital Ltd.’s award-winning MAX technology — which brings colorful new ideas to life for sustainable fashion and textiles — shown at a Kornit Fashion Week LA event Photograph by Harel Rintzler

8

TITAS: A Vibrant World-Class Event The 27th edition of TITAS — Taipei Innovative Textile Application Show — showcased Taiwan’s innovative and youthful textile industry.

11

2023 RISE® Conference Highlighting emerging technologies

12

2023 Fall Synthetic Yarn & Fabric Association Conference Focus on recycling

14

Advanced Textiles Expo 2023 Connecting with the advanced textiles community

16

CAMX 2023 Composites industry comes to Atlanta in a big way

28 Focus On Leadership, Technology And Training Technology Day 2023 held at American Dornier’s Charlotte, N.C., location showcased its capabilities for the North American market.

30 Textiles Innovation Conference Fosters Connections KARL MAYER North America recently hosted the inaugural Textiles Innovation Conference designed to connect the textile manufacturing industry in the United States.

32

Departments 4

From The Editor

6

News

35

Bulletin Board

35

People

36

Calendar

38

Quality Fabric Of The Month

Blockchain For Social Change Blockchain technologies can be used to empower suppliers and workers.

Dyeing,Printing & Finishing 18

Sustainable Dyeing & Finishing Innovations The dyeing and finishing industry continues to make strides in developing technologies that make the processes more environmentally friendly and sustainable.

24 Digital Printing Innovations ITMA 2023 showcased the latest developments in the still-growing digital printing arena.

VOL. 173, No. 6 / TEXTILE WORLD (ISSN 0040-5213) is published bimonthly by Textile Industries Media Group, LLC, PO Box 683155, Marietta, GA 30068, and incorporates Modern Textiles, Textile Industries, Fiber World and Knitting/Apparel magazines, which remain the property of Textile Industries Media Group, LLC. Copyright 2023, Textile Industries Media Group, LLC Title registered with the U.S. Patent Office. All rights, including translation into other languages, reserved. Subscription rates for one year are: $65 (US); $85 (Canada and Mexico); $130 (Other International). Single copy rates are: $15 per copy. All prices are in U.S. dollars and all orders must be prepaid. Questions may be submitted to jdavis@textileworld.com. To obtain electronic copies of print articles, please contact ProQuest at www.proquest.com. To obtain microform copies, please contact NA Publishing at www.napubco.com.

POSTMASTER send address changes to: Textile Industries Media Group, LLC, PO Box 683155, Marietta, GA 30068.

Send Canadian address changes to: Textile World, c/o The Mail Group, P.O. Box 25542, London, ON N6C 6B2, Canada. Customer #7007632 Publications Agreement #40612608.

EditNote.qxd

11/15/23

From

11:29 PM

Page 6

The

Shows, Meetings, Events

Editor

Dominate Textile Schedule

A

fter a fairly manageable spring and summer 2023 schedule, Textile World editors saw no shortage of events fill the fall calendar as the new year quickly approached.

Shows, meetings and events of all stripes dominated the industry calendar — a welcome turn from the bleak days of COVID seclusion, and healthy sign that the industry is curious, outgoing and searching for new ideas and innovations.

Meeting old friends and making new connections is a great feature of the old school face-to-face event schedule. Strong themes including sustainability, recycling, traceability throughout supply chains, efficient manufacturing, near shoring and technical applications, dominated conversations.

With the overhang of an uncertain economy, investment activity and the search for innovative technologies continues to be center stage.

In some areas, like fiber recycling — or better yet fiber “regeneration”— there seems to be a maturing theme as budding technologies are taking hold.

Recently, a press release posted in TextileWorld.com’s “Breaking News” section informed readers about a new company, Reju, formed by Technip Energies, IBM Corp. and Under Armour to “address the fast-growing market of global rPET.”According to the news release, global rPET — recycled polyester — demand from the textile market is “expected to grow up to 20 [million tonnes per annum] by 2033, driven by industry pledges and targets on recycling, regulation and consumer awareness of the need to reduce plastic waste.”

Apparently, the trio of codevelopers have been working together since 2021 to bring IBM’s VolCat technology to a commercial level and using the “molecular sorter”to regenerate polyester indefinitely.

According to Reju, former Under Armour CEO and apparel industry veteran Patrik Frisk

will lead the new company along with Alain Poincheval as COO, a senior executive with Technip Energies. Arnaud Pieton, CEO of Technip Energies, stated: “Globally, less than 1 percent of PET textiles waste is recycled today. This means that most textiles end up as waste in landfills when they could be repeatedly reused in new clothes. What has been holding the world back in textile circularity is not a lack of demand for textile recycling but the lack of a solution that makes recycling of textiles economical on an industrial scale.”

This is just one of many stories illustrating the dynamic nature of today’s textile industry — and the importance of circularity in textiles.

This issue of TW is an interesting mix of stories. On one hand, it presents coverage of the many events that have recently sparked industry conversations, and on the other hand features continued technology coverage from the many innovations showcased at ITMA 2023.

It may seem as if the ITMA coverage will never end, but that is a narrow view. If one stands back and considers things from a technology perspective, what a display of real invention, innovation and creativity there is to explore from ITMA. Consider the hours and level of investment made to bring new manufacturing concepts to a commercial level and then educate the global industry about the potential these new technologies present — it really is an incredible opportunity for the textile industry.

It is heartening to see major players like IBM and Under Amour take a stake in textiles — a challenging industry, but one that always looks to innovation to power a bright future.

James M. Borneman jborneman@TextileWorld.com

masthead2.qxd

11/15/23

1:47 PM

Page 6

A

Publication

EDITOR IN CHIEF EXECUTIVE EDITOR TECHNICAL EDITORS

James M. Borneman Rachael S. Davis Dr. Lisa Parillo Chapman Dr. Peter J. Hauser Dr. Trevor J. Little Dr. William Oxenham Dr. Behnam Pourdeyhimi Dr. Abdel-Fattah Seyam Dr. Andre West

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

Jim Kaufmann Stephen M. Warner

INTERNET CONTENT EDITOR CIRCULATION MANAGER ADVERTISING BUSINESS MANAGER

Rachael S. Davis Julie K. Brown-Davis Denise Buchalter

ART & PRODUCTION MANAGER

Julie K. Brown-Davis

OWNER/PUBLISHER

James M. Borneman

ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVES UNITED STATES/CANADA

Turner Marketing & Media, LLC

+864-594-0921 • sturner@textileworld.com MEXICO, CENTRAL & SOUTH AMERICA Virgilio L. González +58-412-622-2648 • Fax +58-212-985-7921 • vlgonzalezp@gmail.com EUROPE (except ITALY)

Sabine Dussey

+49-171-5473990 • sabine.dussey@dussey.de ITALY Ferruccio & Filippo Silvera +39-022-846716 • Fax +39-022-8938496 • info@silvera.it ASIA James M. Borneman +678-483-6102 • jborneman@textileworld.com INTERNET & CLASSIFIEDS OPPORTUNITIES Julie Davis +678-522-0404 • jdavis@textileworld.com

PO Box 683155 | Marietta, GA 30068, USA Telephone +678-483-6102 | www.TextileWorld.com

NewsRTP.qxd

11/16/23

12:55 AM

Page 12

News MycoWorks Opens Trützschler Donates Fine Mycelium™ Plant Equipment To New Gaston College Fiber MycoWorks recently held a ribbon-cutting cere- Innovation Center mony at its new full-scale Fine Mycelium™ production facility in Union, S.C. The event was attended by South Carolina Governor Henry McMaster, as well as other government officials, community leaders and brand partners. The facility will help MycoWorks meet demand for its patented Reishi™ biobased, leatherlike material that is used by luxury brands, among other companies.

“I was proud to join with MycoWorks to celebrate the grand opening of their new Union facility,”said Governor Henry McMaster.“It’s great to add a biomaterials manufacturer to South Carolina’s expanding range of products and services, and we look forward to the opportunities this investment will bring to students and technicians across the state.”

The Gaston College Fiber Innovation Center, Belmont, N.C., recently received an equipment donation worth $1.2 million from Germanybased Trützschler GmbH & Co. KG for the new facility expected to open in 2024.

The equipment is designed to promote circularity and a reduce the carbon footprint in fiber and textile production.

“Trützschler is excited to be a part of the new state-of-the-art Fiber Innovation Center at Gaston College and proud to show our commitment to the textile industry for the future,”said Greg Duncan, vice president of Sales, Spinning at American Trützschler, Charlotte, N.C. “Thanks in part to our longtime partnership with Trützschler, the Fiber Innovation Center will help revolutionize the textile

Milliken & Company Rebrands Healthcare Subsidiary Milliken & Company, Spartanburg, S.C., recently unveiled OVIK Health — a new brand platform for its healthcare business, Milliken Healthcare Products LLC. As a subsidiary of Milliken & Company, OVIK Health will continue to carry the same products — wound and burn dressings, compression solutions, cohesive bandages and tapes — and current product names will remain the same. However, the branding for these products will become OVIK Health in name and visual instance.

“Launching OVIK Health marks a new era in

industry as we know it,” said Stephen Sharp, vice president of Fiber Innovation at Gaston College.

“The current process for developing innovative textile solutions is expensive, timely, and highly fragmented. With this center, and through Trützschler’s gracious donation, textile innovation can occur from conception to completion, all here at Gaston College.”

PVH Sells Warners, Olga And True&Co.

(Left to right): MycoWorks Chief of Culture Sophia Wang, COO Doug Hardesty, South Carolina Governor Henry McMaster and CEO Matthew Scullin at the ribbon cutting ceremony held to celebrate the opening of the biomaterials company’s factory.

6

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 TextileWorld.com

PVH Corp., New York City, has announced plans to sell its Warners, Olga and True&Co. businesses to Basic Resources Inc. also based in New York City.

The purchase price is $160 million all cash, which is subject to adjustment plus a maximum value earnout of $10 million based on the

our work to positively impact the healthcare industry,” shared Halsey Cook, president and CEO of Milliken & Company.

“Through OVIK, we reaffirm our commitment to providing innovative healthcare solutions and open the door to future opportunities that can heal, protect and support patients.”

The new branding unites under one umbrella Milliken & Company’s business with that of Andover Healthcare, a company it acquired in 2019.

net sales on a portion of the businesses for calendar year 2024. PVH plans to use net proceeds from the sale to repurchase shares of its common stock.

“This transaction is an important next step as we continue to accelerate our focus under the PVH+ Plan to build our core brands, Calvin Klein and TOMMY HILFIGER, into the most desirable lifestyle brands in the world,”said PVH CEO Stefan Larsson.“I want to thank our teams for building Warners, Olga and True&Co into the beloved brands they are today. We know the Basic Resources team well as a longstanding PVH partner and are confident they are the right company to help grow these brands and ensure their continued success over the long term.” TW

OritainAd4.qxd

11/16/23

12:56 AM

Page 1

Oritain provides a solution to regulatory barriers with forensic isotopic testing, a method approved by the U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP), to verify the origin of cotton imported into the U.S.

Redefining the Future of Textile Authenticity with

Forensic Traceability

T

he textile industry has been a major contributor to the global economy for centuries. However, with the rise of counterfeit and fraud, the authenticity and integrity of this industry are being compromised.

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) revealed that 72% of Chinese cotton products use Xinjiang cotton, linked to forced labor, many finding their way into U.S. supply chains and those of its free trade agreement regions. In response, the U.S. textiles association is pushing for stricter inspections and testing of such imports from China.

Rupert Hodges, Chief Commercial Officer at Oritain, observed, “Today's consumer is not just buying a product; they are buying a story. They want to know where the raw materials in their clothes come from and the

journey they’ve been on.

For the textile industry, this means ensuring the authenticity of their products through every step of production.”

Fraud and unethical practices often undermine supply chains, especially in the cotton space. The Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA) and similar legislations worldwide are responses to these malpractices, which have put brand reputations on the line. Oritain provides a solution to these regulatory barriers with forensic isotopic testing, a method approved by the U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP), to verify the origin of cotton imported into the U.S. Dr. Kate Jones, Oritain’s Senior Scientific Advisor, said, “Our technology is based on the naturally occurring isotopes found in soil, water, and air.

These isotopes are unique to a specific geographical

location and act as a natural fingerprint for the products grown there.”

Oritain’s team collects samples of raw cotton, or genuine products, directly from the farm or from other authorities around the globe. These samples are then analyzed using innovative chemical fingerprinting technology, robust and proven science developed in the criminal forensics fields, to identify the isotopic fingerprint of the cotton.

“Once we've created a genuine origin fingerprint, it can be used to audit a wide variety of products throughout the supply chain, from farm to fabric, to differentiate the legitimate from the fraudulent,” added Dr. Jones.

Hodges explained, “We help brands confirm their raw material sourcing and validate the integrity of their supply chain. We gather samples to test and compare them against

our extensive database of global isotopic signatures.

This allows us to provide robust scientific proof of origin and authenticity for our clients.”

Oritain’s forensic testing has already been implemented by major clothing brands, empowering them to assure their customers of the ethical and sustainable practices followed in their supply chain. Dr. Kate Jones added, “Our audits only require a small product sample and can integrate seamlessly into existing supply chains. This makes auditing at different stages in the supply chain, even up to a retail store, easy and scalable.”

Visit oritain.com/cotton to learn how you can promote supply chain transparency by verifying and authenticating the origin of your cotton.

This sponsored content has been provided by Oritain.

Textile World NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

7

TITASReview-RTP2.qxd

11/16/23

1:00 AM

Page 8

TITAS 2023

Participants in the TITAS Opening Ceremonies Fashion Show

TITAS: A Vibrant

World-Class Event The 27th edition of TITAS — Taipei Innovative Textile Application Show — showcased Taiwan’s innovative and youthful textile industry.

By Jim Kaufmann, Contributing Editor

T

o begin, here are some interesting statistics and information collected from the 27th Taipei Innovative Textile Application Show (TITAS) held recently in Taipei City, Taiwan: • More than 35,000 attendees — yes, actual attendance numbers! — from more than 15 different countries during the three-day event.

• A vibrant, colorful and youthful atmosphere throughout the show floor.

• Some 381 international exhibitors from 11 different countries.

• Taiwan’s textile industry ranks first globally in terms of functional and green fabrics resulting in a core theme for this year’s TITAS of “Sustainability, Functional Applications and Intelligent Manufacturing” with virtually every exhibitor booth prominently displaying sustainable, recyclable and/or circular products, future

8

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 TextileWorld.com

concepts and/or even demonstrated results.

• Taiwan’s Vice President Dr. Lai Ching-te spoke at the TITAS opening ceremonies emphasizing the textile industry’s importance to Taiwan and Taiwan’s commitment to its textile industry.

• Creativity and innovation were on display pretty much in every direction, including several fashion shows over the show days featuring local designers focusing on what can be done with recycled content, new fabrics and technologies. For example, for the opening ceremony fashion show, the designers involved were given the challenge “to interpret and reflect the fabric’s performance in the garment’s design.”

• Future business opportunities generated during the three days of the show estimated to be in excess of $47 million dollars in value. Not

bad for an island country slightly larger in land mass than the state of Maryland.

Organized by the Taiwan Textile Federation (TTF) in partnership with Taiwan’s International Trade Administration of the Ministry of Economic Affairs, TITAS was held at the Nangang Exhibition Center. As a firsttime visitor, the impressions made were immediate and lasting. TITAS exemplified itself as an active, interesting and truly vibrant show. The TTF and its President Justin Huang are forward thinking, knowledgeable, influential and vibrant. The collective feeling derived from the majority of participants was one of youthfulness and yes, vibrance! The innovative products and technologies on display, not to mention the colors found throughout the exhibitor booths and show floor — yep, also vibrant.

TTF’s Influence And Focus On Technology TITAS is widely regarded as Asia’s key sourcing platform for textiles and clothing, but this status did not happen overnight. It began years ago when Huang and his colleagues at TTF came to the realization that, “Geopolitics are important and you need to maintain a global perspective to compete.” Huang noted: “Taiwan — with a population of just over 23.5 million people — can never compete with the manpower and efficiencies that other countries in the region possess and we have no free trade agreements with anyone.

To compete, we needed to devise a strategy based on technology and innovation to keep all potential customers interested and keep Taiwan ahead of the curve. Once a technology is developed and moves into production, the resulting products will likely be produced in other countries. So, we need to continue developing newer technologies.”

Given the push to advance technologies, Huang and TTF also made

TITASReview-RTP2.qxd

11/16/23

1:01 AM

Page 9

Views from the TITAS Trend Forum showcasing technical developments.

a conscious decision to hedge their bets by taking a realistic look at and focusing more on what Taiwan’s textile industry does best. “We don’t have a lot of land to grow cotton, but we do make a lot of synthetic yarns,” Huang said. “So, we devised a strategy to ‘feed the machine’ through encouraging designers, manufacturers and brands to focus on synthetic yarns. Since Taiwan primarily makes synthetic fabrics, it only makes sense to have designers in Taiwan’s schools and mills feed those capabilities they have access to and focus on synthetics and now recycled content in creating performance fashion. Cotton is very important globally, but cotton blends are more important to us.”

The next step was to focus on global and local brands by inviting them to attend TITAS and getting the brands involved in the development process as early as possible. As a result, Taiwan’s textile industry has effectively evolved itself into a leader in textile technology and functionality.

“We are able to adapt and change quicker than other countries because of an innovation focus and by playing the long game, or big picture view of industry,” Huang added. “We compete by pushing the envelope and advancing technologies further forward. The designers, brands and retailers want and need versatility and options and we endeavor to provide these options for them. It is difficult to keep this position, but we just try to keep the ideas coming.”

Today, TITAS largely focuses on making available all sectors of Taiwan’s apparel and sportswear markets to all visitors and notably the global brands. “Taiwan is a hub of innovation and functionality, especially in textiles,” stated Philip Wang, assistant sales manager for Freudenberg Performance Materials. “It’s not just the big companies, but also the small ones who do their own developments as well,” a fact that was largely illustrated throughout the show floor.

A few of the many highlights discovered at this year’s TITAS included (in no particular order): • Taiwan Textile Research Institute (TTRI), New Taipei City Taiwan — The research institute, partially funded by its home country, showcased a wide array of textile related research activities developed within the institute primarily for Taiwan’s textile industry.

• A mono-material waterproof and breathable jacket — In an effort to resolve one of the major challenges found in garment recycling, companies including Tokyo-based YKK Group, Singtex Industrial Co. Ltd., Taiwan, and TTRI worked together to develop a functional garment where all components are produced from a singular polymer — in this case polypropylene — for more efficient recycling at the garment’s end of life.

• TITAS Trend Forum — This display of more than 100 different fabric and component examples filled a section of the exhibit hall and was devoted to showcasing the breadth of technical developments presented throughout TITAS by Taiwan’s participating exhibitors.

• Far Eastern New Century Corp. (FENC), Taipei, Taiwan — The company’s colorful booth presented a clever marketing campaign for its technologies including various consumer products from polymers and yarns made using recycled content “from land,” “from ocean,” and “from air” emphasizing FENC’s broad efforts toward developing recycling solutions.

• Tactile Sensation Analyzer (TSA) — Developed by Germany-based Emtec Co., the TSA can reliably measure and quantify haptic qualities or the “hand” of a fabric surface in an objective manner. “The human hand and eye are no longer reliable enough for this industry to manage comparisons effectively,” said Alexander Gruener, Emtec’s Global Business Development manager. According to Gruener, TSA data can be used for lot-to-lot quality comparisons; to effectively categorize different products; to compare suppliers or competitive products; and potentially to feed accurate data into AI, modeling or simulation programs.

Textile World NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

9

TITASReview-RTP2.qxd

11/16/23

1:03 AM

Page 10

Clockwise from top left: Justin Huang, president of the Taiwan Textile Federation; Singtex ONESHELL monomaterial garment; James Kuo, TTF chairman; fashion items on display at TITAS; Garments made using recycled materials found in the sea.

• Pailung Machinery Mill Co. Ltd., Taiwan — showcased further advancements in circular (weft) jacquard knitting machine technologies, including its AlterKnit inverse plating technology in both single and double needlebar machines, as well as a new artificial intelligence (AI)-driven fabric defect detector system that learns as defects happen and are identified.

• The International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC), Washington — In a unique move to further promote textiles to young adults, ICAC had students take a

10

picture of themselves inside a large picture frame promoting World Cotton Day and offered 15,000 Taiwan dollars — approximately $465 — to the student who posted the image online and garnered the most likes.

Youthful Atmosphere Another example of Huang and TTF’s forward thinking was the youthful atmosphere found on the show floor. It was rather evident throughout the duration of the show that a much greater number of participants were under the age of 40 than the number of

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 TextileWorld.com

participants over the age of 40. This presented a very real and striking contrast to the age ratios generally found at U.S.-based textile shows as previously has been discussed in past issues of Textile World. When asked about this comparison, Huang offered that: “We saw the industry getting older years ago, so we went to Taiwan’s universities and learning institutions and helped them create programs to attract more youth into the industry. We wanted to make the industry more appealing to young people by highlighting technology and the recognizability of the brands we cater to. We want the young people to feel engaged, and that helps to keep them here. Textiles do not have negative connotation here in Taiwan and young people continue to relate to the textile industry, technology and the brands. The semi-conductor folks may pay 2.5 times more, but the work is tedious. Textiles is more interesting and continually evolving, which keeps the young people interested. As a result, the majority of people in textiles in Taiwan are younger.”

Obviously looking around the show floor, this strategy has been successful!

The recipe for a successful event of almost any kind generally involves a clear focus and purpose, a viable “product” to offer, some solid planning, and a bit of foresight. By all accounts, TITAS is a world-class event certainly worth attending by anyone interested in functional and advanced textile technologies offered in a colorful and most likely vibrant atmosphere. TW

RISE-RTP.qxd

11/16/23

12:59 AM

Page 2

RISE ® 2023 Inset, top left: Ed Thomas (middle) who received the 2023 INDA Lifetime Technical Achievement Award.

Main image: 2023 RISE Innovation Award winners TiHive

The 2023 RISE® conference focused on emerging technologies in nonwovens and engineered fabrics.

TW Special Report

Highlighting Emerging Technologies

T

he Cary, N.C.-based Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry (INDA) held the 13th iteration of its RISE ® — Research, Innovation & Science for Engineered Fabrics — conference recently at the Talley Student Union on the campus of North Carolina State University (NC State), Raleigh, N.C. The twoday event was again co-organized by INDA, NC State and the Nonwovens Institute (NWI).

RISE focuses on emerging technologies and ideas with the aim of connecting innovations with realworld applications for professionals in the nonwoven/engineered fabrics industry.

Speakers included experienced industry, government and academic personnel. Topics included the future of nonwovens manufacturing, realworld applications and advances in filter media, recycled polymers and sustainability, circular solutions, and market statistics and data trends, among other topics. Johann-Philipp Dilo, Dilo Group CEO, traveled from Germany to share information about Dilo’s new MicroPunch needling technology for lightweight nonwovens that was introduced at ITMA 2023.

Graduate students from the NWI had the opportunity to present their research work to attendees in a poster display. The conference also featured a tour of NWI to view its extensive collection of lab- and pilot-scale manufacturing and testing equipment.

Ed Thomas, with Nonwoven Technology Associates LLC, was honored with the 2023 INDA Lifetime Technical Achievement Award for his contributions to the growth and success of the nonwovens industry over many decades. He was presented with the award by INDA President Anthony “Tony” Fragnito and Matt O’Sickey, INDA’s director of Education and Technical Affairs.

On day one of the conference, each of the RISE Innovation Award finalists gave a short presentation about their nominated technology to the conference participants who then were tasked with voting for the winner. Presentations were provided by Chris Nelson with Curt G. Joa Inc. about the ESC-8 – The JOA® Electronic Size Change; Thomas Wittrup with Fiberpartner ApS about BicoBio Fiber; Tobias Wagner with Reicofil GmbH & Co. KG about the Reifenhäuser Reicofil RF5 XHL; and by Dr.

Hani Sherry with TiHive SAS about its SAPMonit technology. TiHive emerged as the 2023 RISE Innovation Award winner for its diaper inspection technology. Using advanced cameras, high-speed vision algorithms and secure cloud integration, SAPMonit detects the weight and distribution of superabsorbents inline and can optimize resource, detect flaws and accelerate research and development. The technology has the capability to avoid hundreds of tons of plastic waste per machine per year, thus reducing costs and providing a more sustainable operation.

“INDA values its long-standing collaboration with NWI,” noted INDA President Anthony “Tony” Fragnito. “Together we provide valuable workforce development opportunities and disseminate industry innovation and research in the material sciences impacting nonwovens.

The 2023 edition of the RISE conference is another shining example of our organizations working together for the benefit of the industry.”

RISE 2024 is scheduled for October 1-2, 2024, at a new venue on the NC State campus — the James B. Hunt Jr. Library. TW

Textile World NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

11

SYFA-RTP.qxd

11/16/23

SYFA FALL 2023 CONFERENCE

3:06 AM

Page 2

Sarah Coulter

Chad Bolick

Alasair Carmichael (left) and Jerry Eskew

Megan Helton

Raymond Randall

Focus On Recycling

T

he Synthetic Yarn and Fabric Association (SYFA) held its 2023 fall conference recently at the Sheraton Charlotte Airport Hotel, Charlotte, N.C. The format differed slightly from typical meetings. It began with single presenters speaking on a variety of topics under the theme “Reimagining Fibers, Factories and Waste.” The intent of the conference was to take a deeper dive into recycling and sustainable technologies in the man-made fiber sector.

Laura Murphy, Wood Mackenzie, kicked off the presentations with a data-driven “Fiber and Yarn Update.”

She was followed by Parkdale’s Cheryl Smyre who presented an update on CiCLO® technology to attendees in her talk titled “Biodegradable Technology to Reduce the Impacts of Synthetic Microfiber Pollution.” After a networking break, Dave Kasper with Canada-based General Recycled, talked about his company’s unique recycling process developed to keep non-biodegradable flame-resistant (FR) garments out of landfills. The

12

The SYFA’s fall conference took a deep dive into recycling and sustainable technologies in the man-made fiber sector TW Special Report presentation, titled “Closed Loop Recycling of Aramid Garments at the End of Their Lifecycle,” provided an interesting look at the process that begins with FR garments at the end of their lifecycle and ends with new FR garments made using recycled aramid yarns. Rounding out day one of the conference was Lee E. Moritz Jr. with the NC Military Business Center who provided attendees helpful information on how to go after Federal contracts in his presentation “Introduction to Federal Contracting.”

After dinner, attendees heard from Keynote Speaker Augustine Tantillo from consulting firm SRG & Associates. Rieter’s Jerry Eskew, who is retiring, was also was recognized for his 47 years of service to the SYFA. For most

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 TextileWorld.com

of his time as a member, Eskew served on the association’s board.

The second day of presentations began with Bruno Langlois, business development and partnership director with France-based Carbios. He joined the conference via an online video call from France to deliver his presentation about “Enzymatic Recycling,” which focused on Carbios’ enzyme technology for depolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate (PET) in a circular manner with no loss of quality. Carbios recently obtained building and operating permits for the world’s first biorecycling plant in Longlaville, France, which is expected to be operational in 2025.

Langlois was followed by Aaron Alvarado, with Germany-based Setex, a supplier of controls, sensors and camera measurement technology, and planning and manufacturing software for textile machinery manufacturers. Alvarado presented on the topic of “Transformation in Textile Manufacturing from Automation to Digitalization.”

SYFA-RTP.qxd

11/16/23

2:35 AM

Page 3

Cheryl Smyre

Dave Kasper

Keynote speaker Augustine Tantillo

Aaron Alvarado

Lee E. Moritz Jr.

SYFA President Hardy Sullivan Laura Murphy

The final session was arranged as a panel discussion led by moderator Alasdair Carmichael, a long-time SYFA board member and program director at the National Association for PET Container Resources (NAPCOR).

The panelists —Raymond Randall, WM (Waste Management); Megan Helton, Eastman; Chad Bolick, Unifi; and Sarah Coulter, Accelerating Circularity — offered expertise in collection and logistics, molecular and mechanical textile recycling, as well as ongoing actions downstream in the textile recycling sector. After each panelist gave a short presentation about his or her company and its recycling journey, the group discussed the ideas of collection, sorting and end-of-life treatment as it relates to textile recycling. Information shared and discussed included: • It is estimated that 92 million tons of textile waste is generated each year by the apparel industry • Some 15 percent of all fabric delivered into the apparel supply chain ends up as waste on the cutting room floor; and

• Of all garments produced, 30 percent are not sold at retail and must be disposed of some way.

Moderator Carmichael warned attendees that legislation is coming and that the textile and apparel industry needs to be involved in writing the legislation or rules will be created that are not at all favorable to the industry.

Conference sponsors included Diamond Sponsor Premier Fibers Inc.; Gold Sponsor Goulston Technologies; Silver Sponsor Pulcra Chemicals LLC; Bronze Sponsors Polyspintex and Unifi Inc.; and Keynote Sponsors Measured Solutions Inc. and Milliken & Company.

“On the heels of a successful 50th anniversary celebration last year, the 2023 Fall Conference shined a light on what’s ahead for the next few decades,” said SYFA President Hardy Sullivan. “The synthetic yarn and fabric industry has experienced an evolution of ways North American companies try to set themselves apart.

Over the years we’ve seen a gradual

transition of focus — from throughput to quality to recycled content; and now there is emphasis on minimizing resources and circularity. To recognize we’ve reached an inflection point, the conference theme was ‘Reimagining Fibers, Factories and Waste.’ We had a great lineup of speakers and panelists that revealed ways to modernize, expand into new markets, and make our industry more sustainable by using materials and processes that allow synthetics to biodegrade or be recycled at large scale. SYFA has reached its 51st year but, in many ways, we’re just starting a new chapter.”

The next edition of the SYFA conference will be held April 18-19, 2024, at the Sheraton Charlotte Airport Hotel. The association is planning its second annual golf outing the day before the conference, on April 18, to raise money for the SYFA Scholarship Fund for Gaston Community College’s textile program.

Lauren Eck, the first recipient of SYFA’s scholarship, was in attendance at the fall meeting. TW

Textile World NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

13

ATReview-RTP.qxd

11/16/23

1:08 AM

Page 2

ADVANCED TEXTILES EXPO 2023 REVIEW

Tobias Cochran, softgoods lab engineer at NASA’s Johnson Space Center

Connecting With The

Advanced Textiles Community The collocated Advanced Textiles Expo and Sun Shading Expo recently gathered in Orlando, Fla., to showcase industrial, technical and sun shading textiles.

By Jim Kaufmann, Contributing Editor

T

his year’s Advanced Textiles Expo — organized by the Roseville, Minn.-based Advanced Textiles Association and held at the Orange County Convention Center in Orlando, Fla. — focused on the industrial, technical and performance sectors of the textile industry. It was once again collocated with the Sun Shading Expo, which caters to and addresses the interior and exterior sun shading industry.

Unfortunately, both shows may have been the victims of either unlucky scheduling or trade show fatigue as the collocated expos were held the same week as two other functional textile and composites trade shows, both of which undoubtedly siphoned off some of the usual attendees.

That said, though the number of attendees may have been smaller than usual — actual numbers for exhibitors and attendees were not

14

available as of TW ’s press time — several exhibitors shared that they had a good show experience. Scott Hilleary, president of SSM Industries, Spring City, Tenn., expressed: “We’ve had a really good show here in Orlando. We’ve participated in a number of good meetings and made some interesting introductions to potential customers that we hope will develop into opportunities.”

“This is our primary event, and we always seem to have good traffic and meaningful conversations in our booth, so yes it’s been a good show for us,” said Dan Weisenberger, Southern Regional sales manager for Seaman Corp., Wooster, Ohio.

Exhibitors included a variety of narrow- and full-width fabric suppliers, coaters and laminators, machine vendors, auxiliary components, and accessories suppliers. Each catered to the wide breadth of markets that typ-

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 TextileWorld.com

ically fall under the advanced textiles umbrella.

The National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA) again exhibited at the expo and brought what was probably the most visually interesting inflatable booth to grace the show floor. The booth showcased several examples of softgoods products and prototypes intended for use on future space missions to the moon and Mars, and maybe beyond, giving visitors a small glimpse into some of the challenges today’s space travelers face. Tobias Cochran, an engineer in the softgoods lab at NASA’s Johnson Space Center appreciated the variety of exhibitors presented and the conversations that occurred. “We work on a lot of different prototypes, typically with rather unique requirements,” Cochran said. “So, coming to this show is great for us. It gives us the opportunity to not only show off the products we produce, but also provides us the opportunity to talk with the advanced textiles community and discuss problems we’re hoping to solve, learn about new and existing technologies, and look for possible new solutions that may help us at some point in the future.”

Events like the Advanced Textiles and Sun Shading Expos continue to provide a focused meeting space for industry newbies and veterans alike to meet and make new connections, get caught up with old friends, and maybe solve a problem or two. Ironically, regardless of how many attend a trade show, it really only takes one or two of those connections or conversations to make the trip worth the effort.

As an old friend always used to say, if you’re fortunate to partake more than one or two good conversations, “… well, that’s just gravy! And man, do I like the gravy.”

The 2024 Advanced Textiles Expo will be held September 24-26, 2024, in Anaheim, Calif. Let’s hope there’s lots of gravy to be spread around again. TW

TextileWorldAd-GetConnected3

7/28/22

1:11 AM

Page 1

Get connected to a world of textile business.

website / magazine / e-newsletter

+ New Digital Edition Subscribe to Textile World for complete coverage of the U.S. and global textile manufacturing industry — the latest technologies, applications, regulations and trends.

Website, eNewsletter, Magazine, and now in Digital Editions available.

Print advertisers receive additional reach and linking with free inclusion in Digital Editions. read / share / engage

TextileWorld.com

Picanol placed

11/16/23

3:00 AM

Page 1

CAMX 2023 REVIEW

CAMX 2023 AA

Comes to Atlanta In A Big Way s the composites industry in North America continues to grow and blossom into newer and more creative applications, so too does CAMX, the Composites and Advanced Materials Expo. This year’s edition of CAMX was held for the first time at the World Congress Center in Atlanta, and by all accounts it was another successful event. Joan Higginbotham, a retired NASA astronaut who now is president of Joan Higginbotham Ad Astra LLC — an aerospace consulting firm — was the keynote speaker. She discussed her rewarding careers and her perseverance in becoming a rocket scientist and astronaut, which led to becoming a crew member of a 2006 space shuttle Discovery mission to the international space station. Upon returning to terra firma and after her time with NASA ended, Higginbotham embarked on a career focused on driving social impact and eventually became an aerospace consultant.

During the show, CAMX Award winners were announced with the University of Maine accepting the Combined Strength Award for its BioHome3D — a unique biobased, fully 3D-printed and fully recyclable

16

Successful CAMX aided by location near composite and textile manufacturers based in the southeast.

By Jim Kaufmann, Contributing Editor

house that included a novel printing twist. To provide better integration of design aspects, the university created a patented process for large scale 3Dprinting at a 45-degree angle. A representative segment of the printed house structure was available on the show floor and drew a lot of attention during the expo.

Strongwell, Bristol, Va., received the CAMX Unsurpassed Innovation award for its 200-foot all pultruded structure, which is part of a 40-year infrastructure initiative to make wireless energy transmission more feasible. Bespoke tooling was designed and used to pultrude the individual shapes necessary to create the structure.

As always, the conference segment provided a variety of session topics ranging from “AI Machine Learning in Composites” to “Avoid-

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 TextileWorld.com

ing ‘Greenwashing’ Claims” and more. Poster sessions also returned and provided additional opportunities to expand one’s knowledge of the advancements in composites.

However, as typically is the case, most were attracted to the activities found on the show floor where a growing number of booths and exhibiting companies displayed their wares demonstrating once again how the composites industry endeavors to keep moving forward.

The expo floor felt bigger than in past years, but those wandering the hall were able to see and speak with a bevy of industry experts from up and down the supply chain. Composites One and the Closed Mold Alliance, as has become a welcomed tradition, again used a portion of the expo floor to demonstrate molding techniques and advanced processes.

CAMX also offered the CAMX Theater to provide assorted additional education opportunities to those on the expo floor. However, the real attractions were the various exhibitor booths, which held the treasures most attendees might have been searching for. A few treasures or at least items of interest included:

CAMXReview-RTP2.qxd

11/16/23

1:10 AM

Page 3

Views from around the CAMX registration area and show floor

• 3D printing technologies, featured by several different exhibitors, continue to evolve and grow as a processing system into new and more complex shapes, configurations and applications.

• WEAV3D, Norcross, Ga., highlighted its woven composite lattice reinforcement structure, “Rebar for Plastics” that incorporates spread tow tapes. The lattice framework of the structure allows WEAV3D to locally tune performance characteristics to meet molded component needs, reducing component costs to targeted transportation and industrial applications.

• Innegra Technologies, Colfax, N.C., recently acquired by and now part of the Quantum Group, showed the versatility of its Innegra S fiber — a high modulus polyolefin multifilament yarn — in different textile and composite applications. It can be used in concert with other high-performance fibers such as carbon or glass, to improve toughness, durability and vibration dampening of molded parts, while also improving overall part cost and reducing weight.

• Several booths featured composite parts produced with recycled content, including recycled carbon and glass. Also, work continues in developing green composites, some of which could be found within the innovation displays.

• Also of interest in the innovation displays was a new composite based vertical axis wind turbine system from Be-Wind, Melbourne, Fla., that has a much smaller profile and cost than current wind turbine systems.

• IFC Mercantile LLC, Warren, N.J., promoted a modified acrylic — not modacrylic — staple fiber with inherent flame-retardant properties that does not melt or

drip. It is intended for flame retardant applications including protective apparel, higher temperature filtration, industrial and technical applications.

Attendee and final exhibitor numbers were not available as of TW ’s press time, but the general consensus of participants and exhibitors surveyed was that this year’s CAMX was another success. And Atlanta, though colder and windier than many expected, proved again to be a viable location for such an event given its proximity to the southeast’s textile and composite manufacturers.

The 2024 CAMX Expo will be held September 9-12, 2024, in San Diego, Calif. Hope to see you there! TW

Textile World NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

17

DyeingFinishing-RTP.qxd

11/16/23

1:12 AM

Page 18

DYEING AND FINISHING

Thies Signature Series dyeing machine

The dyeing and finishing industry continues to make strides in developing technologies that make the processes more environmentally friendly and sustainable.

TW Special Report

Sustainable

Dyeing & Finishing Innovations

S

ustainability continues to be at the forefront of textile machinery and technology development and there were a plethora of sustainable fiber and yarn innovations in the spotlight at the recent ITMA 2023. However, as one of the first sectors in the textile industry to receive negative attention for the high use of water and chemicals, and amounts of wastewater generated, the dyeing and finishing industry is no stranger to sustainable innovation. But despite a focus on environmentally friendly technologies for much longer than other sectors in some cases, there were plenty of innovations shown at ITMA that showed the sustainability journey continuing in dyeing and finishing.

Some trends include low or no salt dyeing, use of carbon dioxide or nitrogen in processing as well as new heating systems and water reductions all designed to make the sector more sustainable.

Following is a look at just some of the latest technologies available for dyeing and finishing.

Germany-based Thies Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG debuted the Signature Series machine, which was developed to dye cotton fabrics at the lowest possible liquor ratio using no salt. The jet-dyeing machine operates at an ultra-low

18

liquor ratio as low as 1:2.3. For each batch, the liquor ratio is determined based on the fabric’s adsorption level plus a small quantity of water roughly equal to 0.6 liters per kilogram to ensure the pump used to circulate the dye liquor remains flooded. By removing water from the process, more of the dyestuff goes on to the fabric instead of hydrolyzing and ending up as a waste product. The machine delivers small amounts of highly concentrated dye throughout the dye cycle to ensure a level dyeing.

The machine can be used in three modes to dye using full salt, low salt or no salt. No salt dyeing reduces the effluent, which helps companies in countries with strict effluent policies; and both no and low salt processes save dyestuff and chemicals for both cost savings as well as environmental advantages. The Signature Series prepares, dyes and rinses the fabric without the need for intermediate processes or machines. As a high-pressure vessel, the machine also can be used to dye polyester and is a great option for a company that handles a variety of fabric substrates. An adjustable, curved Jbox also means the machine can handle light and heavy fabrics in full and reduced loads. “Thies is opening a new chapter in fabric coloration,” said Verena Thies, managing shareholder, Thies. “Signature’s innovative ultra-low

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 TextileWorld.com

liquor ratio significantly enhances dye effectiveness, resulting in up to 20 percent decrease in dyestuff consumption.

By combining Thies’ cutting-edge advancements, water usage is minimized by 25 percent.” These decreases are based on a comparison with Thies’ iMaster, the Signature’s predecessor.

DyeCoo Textile Systems BV, the Netherlands, introduced new additions to its carbon dioxide dyeing solutions at ITMA including a compact sampling and small-scale production machine, and a lab system for research and development. The company’s technology harnesses carbon dioxide (CO2) instead of using water to dye fabric. Under pressure, the CO2 becomes “supercritical” and acts as a solvent that easily dissolves the dye, transporting it into the fiber. The system requires no additional chemicals to help dissolve the dye, and there is a 98 percent dye uptake and therefore, very little waste. The technology also uses reclaimed CO 2 from existing industrial processes where 95 percent of the CO2 is recycled in a closed-loop process. According to DyeCoo, the use of 100-percent pure dyestuff that is evenly distributed over the fabric results in deep, vibrant colors.

Italy-based Master S.r.l. did not participate in this year’s ITMA, but the company recently introduced the Craftyflow and Craftyrope machines

DyeingFinishing-RTP.qxd

11/16/23

1:12 AM

for dyeing denim warps. The machines feature a dual technology and can operate in a traditional manner in a natural air atmosphere or in a nitrogen atmosphere. When operating in a nitrogen atmosphere, the machine reduces the chemical consumption of hydrosulfite by 75 percent, caustic soda by 80 percent and water by 80 percent, according to the company. Master reports the technology already has been adopted by some notable denim producers.

Switzerland-based Benninger AG offers complete systems for continuous wet processing and discontinuous dyeing, including jet dyeing machines, dye house supply systems, caustic soda recovery plants and wastewater heat recovery systems.

The company also produces tire cord processing solutions.

Benninger’s new FabricMaster discontinuous jet-dyeing machine was developed with faster processing times and economical water usage in mind. Knit or woven fabric is loaded from the side of the machine versus from the top down to avoid elongation and loading marks. The machine is available in a variety of sizes from lab size on up.

Other technologies available from Benninger includes the BenningerKüsters CPB (cold pad batch) dyeing technology, which allows knitwear to be dyed in a salt-free, cold dyeing process; and the CDS (chemical dispensing system) that can dispense up to 24 chemicals for between two and 16 machines for accurate and just-intime supply.

The company’s SingeRay singeing machine has exceeded all expectations selling more units already this year than ever anticipated. The machine was designed with energy savings, natural gas in particular, in mind.

Made in Germany, the SingeRay features four singeing positions as well as two special aluminum burners with ceramic flame guiding bricks, which offer higher production speed and higher heat intensity. Its silicium carbide burning chambers with four cooling channels ensure complete

Page 19

Since its introduction at ITMA 2015, Baldwin’s non-contact spray application system for textile finishing and remoistening has started to take off.

combustion and a constant burner temperature, which also helps to keep the nozzle strip straight. The machine can be adapted to accommodate different widths of fabric and rather than just shutting down sections of the flame bar, the actual chamber width can be modified to close the gap on each side thus aiding heat conservation and saving energy.

Lexington, N.C.-based Navis Tubetex now offers Gaston Systems’ foam technology for applying a low water foamed chemistry onto or into a substrate. The technology was originally used for chemical finishing where the precision applicators allow one chemical to be applied to the front of a fabric while a different chemical is applied on the back. But further applications for this proprietary technology are developing because of the ability to reduce chemical waste, as well as water and energy consumption. The company recently collaborated with biofabrication company Modern Meadow who was searching for a partner that offered an application technology suitable for its Bio-FREED ™ powered by Bio-Alloy™ plant-based protein and biopolymer. When used as a dyeing pretreatment, the bio-based technology makes the fabric much more receptive to dyes. Research is continuing, but the process is interesting for its ability to reduce energy, water, and dyes and chemicals use during dyeing. When applied to a blended textile substrate using the Gaston Technologies foam equipment, Bio-FREED results in an estimated 95-

percent reduction in water, 75-percent reduction in energy, and an 80-percent reduction in the amount of dyes and chemicals needed. Navis Tubetex also offers Oasis, which is a pretreatment technology to make the fabric more receptive to dyes so the fabric may be dyed using less salt.

Italy-based Santex Rimar Group S.r.l. offers an extensive portfolio comprising six brands that cover finishing, coating, laminating, impregnation, embossing, printing, prepregs, weaving and green technologies for water treatment for drying. Federico Businaro, vice president, Group Corporate Image, noted that the company’s slogan “Eco is our attitude” appeared to attract customers to its booth during ITMA. The company invests 4 percent of its annual global turnover in research and development every year to ensure it is offering the best technologies to its customers. ITMA highlights included the Compas from Sperotto Rimar, ESC unit for the SANTASHRINK, and the Cavimelt Pro multifunctional coating machine from Cavitec presented for the first time at an international exhibition.

The Compas open-width compacting and finishing machine features a new elastic belt that is cooled using a cooling roll that is equipped with a chiller to recool and circulate the water.

The compacting action is enhanced by the elasticity of the new belt, which is pretensioned at a controlled and settable value. The fabric makes contact with the belt when it is under maximum tension and as the tension is

Textile World NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

19

DyeingFinishing-RTP.qxd

11/16/23

1:12 AM

Page 20

Xorella’s new XO automation system

released the fabric follows the belt, thus compacting the fabric lengthwise.

The Santashrink, a tensionless shrinkage and relax drying machine for tubular and open-width knitted fabrics, has long been a Santex bestseller. The machine now can be supplied or retrofitted with the ESC – Energy Saving Chamber, which recovers and reuses the hot exhaust air. The company reports the use of the ESC can increase production capacity by 15 to 17 percent using the same amount of heating energy.

Lastly, the two-in-one Cavimelt Pro was designed to switch rapidly between rotogravure and full-surface coating. Based on hotmelt technology — which is inherently environmentally friendly because it uses no solvents or water — the Cavimelt Pro delivers high bonding performance even on sensitive materials and in innovative applications, according to the company.

THEN Smartflow TSF dyeing machine

20

Brückner Textile Technologies GmbH & Co. KG, Germany, presented its lines for finishing and coating at ITMA. Its latest-generation tenter, the POWER-FRAME SFP-4, features electric/hydrogen- powered heating systems, as well as intelligent software, and systems for heat recovery and exhaust air purification, among other features. Driven by the energy crisis, the company set out to develop innovative heating systems that are energy efficient and combine a variety of heating options such as gas, steam, oil or electrical heat. In addition to the Power-Frame SFP-4, Brückner offers a new industrial oven that is fully electric powered using heat pumps. These new options reduce the dependence on fossil fuels and minimize the carbon dioxide footprint for a manufacturer.

The ECO-HEAT heat-recovery and ECO-AIR exhaust air purification systems may be retrofitted to older lines from Brückner, but also lines from other manufacturers. The systems feature intelligent controls and Brückner can help customers perform tests on site on a laboratory scale to assess utilization rates and efficiency before installation.

The newly redesigned POWERDRY relaxation dryer also can be heated using a high-temperature heat pump to eliminate carbon dioxide emissions.

Brückner’s ECO-COAT and OPTI-COAT 2in1 offer customers an opportunity to save resources such as water and chemi-

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 TextileWorld.com

cals. The Opti-Coat 2in1 combines a floating knife and knife-over-cylinder in one machine for high-precision with paste and foam coatings. The Eco-Coat is a new type of padder featuring minimum preparation quantity or residual liquor.

All Brückner’s machinery may be supplied with intelligent systems that support optimum machine settings.

Germany-based Then, a member of the CHTC Fong’s International Group and a Fong’s Europe GmbH brand, introduced the hydraulic hightemperature THEN Smartflow TSF dyeing machine with a unique reelless round shape. The machine features a smart fabric transport system to ensure even dyeing; a heat exchanger to quickly and efficiently heat the dye liquor; and optimized chemical, dyestuff and salt dosing to reduce waste and optimize results.

The Smartflow TSF has a low liquor ratio of 1:2.5 with a full load of manmade fiber fabrics. “We take the global green deal seriously and analyze production and working processes for their environmental impact,” said Fong’s Europe Director of Sales and Marketing Richard Fander. “The chambers of the Smartflow TSF can accommodate variable loads in terms of both weight and material type down to 40 kg for extremely flexible processing, and each unit can be equipped with up to six chambers, in order to fully maximize productivity, while taking up to 40-percent less floor space than competing systems.

Overall, the machine is a reliable and efficient solution for textile dyeing that can help textile manufacturers reduce their environmental impact while improving their processes.”

THEN also offers the Supratec LTM dyeing machine suitable for sensitive highly elastic and delicate man-made fiber fabrics. The long tube-shaped machine design can be tailor-made for customers with one or two nozzles for full filling with acceptable fast turn times. Each kier has a capacity of up to 200 kilograms and the machine runs at 80 to 600 meters per minute.

Germany-based Goller, a member

DyeingFinishing-RTP.qxd

11/16/23

1:53 AM

of the CHTC Fong’s International Group and a Fong’s Europe GmbH brand, promoted its KnitExcellence package for wet finishing treatment of knit textiles at ITMA. Comprised of the Knit Complexa for bleaching, Knit Mercer for mercerization, Knit Economica for dyeing, and the Sintensa washing range, the package offers a manufacturer a complete range of machinery for processing knit fabrics.

The company also introduced the new Oxidator module for all types of woven fabrics. The machine features a washing compartment with an interchangeable, modular design that can be modified to meet a variety of washing requirements to produce different fabric qualities. The unit combines powerful, adjustable angle spray washing with up-down roller washing. The design also can house 25-percent more fabric than a conventional drum washer.

Another member of the CHTC

Page 21

A Thermex line is available for full customer production trials at the Monforts Advanced Technology Centre in Germany.

Fong’s International Group and Fong’s Europe brand, Xorella, Switzerland, launched the XO Solid machine series, as well as XO Automation for the double XO Select conditioning machine series. The XO Solid was designed to complement the company’s existing XO Smart, XO Trend and XO Select yarn vacuum conditioning and heat setting

machines. XO Solid features a cubical design with a high loading space of 1,800 millimeters (mm) x 1,700 mm x 4,000 mm, which allows six units to be manually loaded on the floor level.

The “plug and play” machine includes all components preinstalled on a single frame for easy installation at the customer site. Xorella’s XO Automation system is a roller con-

AUTOMATED CHEMICAL MANAGEMENT MANAGEMENT · Hands-free chemical mixing and dispensing

worker safety

· Liquids and / or solids traceability inventory tracking centralized recipe control

raw material storage

faster process time

· Centralized recipes and inventory management · Customized for fabric finishers, formulators, backcoat compounders and dyers

weigh mix dispense accurate and repeatable

real-time reporting

ERP integration

Best practices from a global leader with local support Contact: Thies US, Rock Hill, SC h.sullivan@thies.group

Textile World NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

21

DyeingFinishing-RTP.qxd

11/16/23

1:13 AM

Page 22

Avient debuted new sustainable additions to its MagnaColours ITO range of dyes, chemicals and functional finishes.

veyor technology for loading and unloading two-door XO Select conditioning machines. A customer may also opt to add a pallet wrapping machine, weighing station, label printer, safety fence and security system to complete the line. XO Automation fills the gap between the XO Select moving platform and the fully automated transportation system from spinning hall to warehouse.

The TexCoat™ G4 from St. Louisbased Baldwin Technology Co. Inc. has its origins in a spray system used in the paper industry. Since its introduction at ITMA 2015, this non-contact spray application system for textile finishing and remoistening has started to take off. “Since its introduction at ITMA 2015 in Milan, global textile finishers have embraced TexCoat and are reaping the benefits,” said Rick Stanford, Baldwin’s vice president of Global Business Development, Textiles. “They have been able to increase profitability, cut energy use and reduce their carbon footprint in addition to exercising precision control with our patented precision spray technology.”

The spray system vastly reduces water, chemicals and energy consumption with water consumption decreasing by as much as 50 percent compared to traditional pad application processes, and energy costs dipping by 35 to 50 percent. The technology also allows a manufacturer to finish the fabric on one or both sides at the same time depending on production requirements. Graniteville Specialty Fabrics,

22

Graniteville, S.C., recently installed TexCoat technology at its operation.

Baldwin also offers the Plasma Pure treatment for textiles, which features ceramic electrodes that generate an air plasma to treat the fabric surface and improve absorption and adhesion properties of the fabric. The treatment enhances dyeing, coating and lamination results with uniform dyeing and greater bonding strength, among other advantages.

Post-ITMA, Germany-based A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG reported it had welcomed a high number of visitors to its booth and had secured major orders from manufacturers in Central and South America, Pakistan and Italy.

At ITMA, the company highlighted its Montex tenter, which thanks to heat recovery and energy optimization options offers overall energy savings of 40 percent compared to convention tenters. “Exhaust air treatment on [tenter] frames has posed particular challenges over the years, since the air can contain significant amounts of oil, fiber and even wax particles that may see emissions limits being reached in the processing of certain fabrics,” explained Monforts Managing Director Gunnar Meyer.

“In addressing this issue, we are incorporating the MonforClean module directly into the [tenter] frame.

With this addition, the waste heat from the drying process is used to pre-heat the drying air, resulting in a radical reduction in the conventional

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 TextileWorld.com

heat supply required compared to gas and thermal oil heating.” Ontariobased nonwovens producer Albarrie was one of the first companies to install a Monfort Montex tenter equipped with the full range of MonforClean technologies.

“We were also very pleased with the interest in the Montex®Coat, the latest addition to our range of technologies, which we displayed in Milan,” said Nicole Croonenbroek, marketing manager. The Montex Coat may be used to apply PVC coatings, solvent coatings, pigment dyes, and minimal application surface and low penetration treatments. The flexible system accommodates knife and roller coating as well as screen printing for quick changes between fabric runs while still operating in an economical manner. The Montex Coat now features automatic edge limiters to immediately adapt to new production widths. The Montex Coat serves a very diverse number of markets and enables full PVC coatings, pigment dyeing or minimal application surface and low penetration treatments as well as solvent coatings. Knife coating, roller coating or screen printing can also all be carried out with this system.

As such, it provides the ultimate in flexibility and the ability to switch quickly from one fabric run to the next, without compromising on the economical use of energy or raw materials.

France-based Superba S.a.S., known historically for its heat-setting solutions and today a member of the Belgium-based Vandewiele Group, has developed a new modular version of its MCD3 space-dyeing machine for carpet and rug yarns. The MCD3M can be scaled on demand in blocks of two or three modules to meet a customer’s needs. This modularity enables a manufacturer to control the cost of production, energy consumption and waste. Similar to its predecessor, the MCD3M can handle a layer of 72 ends of bulk continuous filament or spun nylon, polyester, wool or polyacrylonitrile yarns and blends. A high-pressure spraying technique is used for even application.

DyeingFinishing-RTP.qxd

11/16/23

1:13 AM

Page 23

Dyes, Auxiliaries And Finishes As well as producers of dyeing and finishing machinery, companies producing dyes, chemicals and auxiliaries were present at ITMA to share their latest sustainable innovations. Italybased ERCA Textile Chemistry introduced a new generation of auxiliary chemicals made from used vegetable oil; and Officina39, also based in Italy, showcased its Ecobinder R Series binder made from 100-percent post-consumer recycled polymer obtained from recycled windshields and other types of laminated and safety glass, and Recycrom™ dyestuff products derived from 100-percent recycled used clothing, fibrous material and textile scraps (See “Just A Few

Of The ‘Cool’ Things On Display — The ITMA 2023 Edition,” T W , July/August 2023).

Avient Specialty Inks, Kennesaw, Ga., has expanded its MagnaColours® ITO dye range with the ITOFIX EVO reactive dyes. When used on cellulose fibers, the dyes reduce the processing cycle time and may be used at a lower dyeing temperature because of faster fixation capabilities, according to the company. The range is currently available in 10 different shades and is formulated to reduce hazardous substances without compromising on performance. Avient reports its Taoyuan production facility has achieved full compliance with the Global Recycled Standard 4.0 and also is recognized as a bluesign® System Partner as a provider of colorants and additives for spin dyeing.

Switerland-based HeiQ highlighted its biobased textile innovations for allergen reduction, odor control and cooling during ITMA. The company reports its technologies are designed to provide “superpowers” to fabrics, adding functionality while remaining a sustainable choice. Some of the technologies available include: • HeiQ Allergen Tech, which confers protection against inanimate allergens such as house dust mite matter and pet allergens in home textiles;

Jeanologia specializes in disruptive technologies for processing denim

• HeiQ Cool, a dual-action cooling technology that offers up to a 5.4°F cooler fabric temperature compared to an untreated fabric for enhanced thermal and moisture comfort; • HeiQ Mint, a plant-based odor management solution that has no impact on breathability, color, hand or wicking properties and also is suitable for a wide range of applications from apparel to home textiles on a variety of fiber types; and • HeiQ Fresh, a silver-free odor control technology that tackles smells by adsorbing volatile organic compounds responsible for the odor.

First-time ITMA exhibitor Fuze Technologies, Salt Lake City, reported an extremely successful show. The company offers FUZE, a silver- and water-based, non-ionic and chemicalfree technology that can be applied to textiles to confer permanent protection from odor-causing and infectious-disease-carrying bacteria. The patented laser ablation manufacturing process allows the company to create particles of a precise size and shape to fit the application. Because FUZE uses pure silver particles that are non-ionic, no silver ions are released and therefore there is no negative effect on the environment and the chemistry is not harmful to humans. The technology requires no chemical binders or surfactants and is applied using a light mist. It also may be blended with other treatments such as whiteners and softeners.

According to the company, testing has shown the treatment to remain more than 99-percent effective on textile products for more than 100 washes.

The initially expensive technology was originally only available on high-end products, but a boost in interest as a

result of the COVID pandemic dropped the price of the technology substantially and it now is moving into many more medical, nonwovens and hospitality products.

Related Technologies, Innovations Germany-based Pulcra Chemicals GmbH introduced the combined pretreatment and dyeing process, Sustineri Coloring, developed in partnership with the Spainbased fashion group Inditex. Based on newly developed chemicals, the process allows one bath to be used for pretreatment and dyeing for dark, medium and light shades of cotton and polycotton blends using an exhaust method. According to the companies, studies performed in mills that are already using the process show that Sustineri Coloring can reduce pretreatment and dyeing time by up to 60 percent. In addition, water consumption is reduced by up to 80 percent and energy consumption by up to 60 percent compared to traditional processing methods.

Inditex also collaborated with Spain-based Jeanologia S.L. to develop the Air Fiber Washer, a solution to tackle the release of microfibers from garments during finishing before they are sold to the consumer.

Jeanologia also offers the new Atmos, an atmospheric washing process that pairs its G2 ozone technology with the new patented INDRA system to produce a stonewashed, authentic vintage look on denim without using water, chemicals or pumice stones (See “Just

A Few Of The ‘Cool’ Things On Display — The ITMA 2023 Edition,” TW, July/August 2023). TW

Textile World NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

23

ITMADigitalPrinting-RTP.qxd

11/16/23

1:14 AM

Page 24

DYEING, PRINTING & FINISHING

An example of Kornit’s direct-to-garment high-density printing

Roll-To-Roll/Direct-ToFabric Printers

Digital Printing

Innovations

ITMA 2023 showcased the latest developments in the still-growing digital printing arena.

By Dr. Lisa P. Chapman, Technical Editor; and Kerry McGuire King

I

TMA 2023, aptly named “Transforming the World of Textiles”, focused on sustainability achieved in three innovation areas that are directly related to digital printing — Advanced Material, Artificial Intelligence and Automation. This year was the largest iteration of the show with more than 111,000 attendees from 143 countries (2019: 105,000) 1,709 exhibitors from 47 countries (2019: 1,717), and 200,000 square meters of exhibition space (2019: 114,500 square meters). Digital printing was again heavily featured at ITMA 2023, with an entire hall devoted to this technology. The digital print market grew substantially since the last ITMA. There was a slowdown during the pandemic, but now there is a return to a growth market.

ITMA 2015 saw a transformative breakthrough with the development of single pass printers, capable of printing at speeds up to 70 meters per minute (m/min). Surprisingly, these high-speed printers were not featured as prominently at ITMA 2023. Rather, the emphasis was on the optimization and maturation of scan type printers with a focus on sustainability, as well as optimization of the printing process to improve quality and reduce col-

24

orants, chemicals and time. Scan type printers, while still not as fast as single pass printers, are now much faster than what was shown at ITMA 2019, reaching speeds of 15 to 20 linear yards per minute. The increased speed of scan type printers is achieved by stacking print heads. Although slower, scan type printers also offer greater flexibility, and in some instances higher quality. The high speed of single pass printers means approximately 20 percent of designs cannot be achieved, particularly those prints where more saturated, larger solid print areas are required. Scan type printers are cheaper and take up less floor space and so it’s possible to have several on the factory floor printing using different colorants on a variety of substrates. Scanning technologies offer manufacturing flexibility and redundancy, which is critical for print on demand environments where ultra-short run printing includes quick turns across a variety of materials and product types.

Scanning solutions offer the ability to scale manufacturing over time through the addition of machines and the ability to “step up” to the next machine level. This is a strategy offered by a number of vendors.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 TextileWorld.com

At ITMA, Japan-based Epson showcased the Monna Lisa series — widely considered to be one of the premium technologies for the highest resolution and highest-quality prints — including the ML 8000, 16000, 32000 and 64000 machines for which the model number corresponds to the number of printheads and therefore throughput capability.

Models and capabilities include: • ML 8000, which prints with a set of reactive and acid dyes, called REACID, for fiber blended substrates, or for more flexibility if for example, a customer wanted to print substrates compatible with acid for one print run and reactive for another.

• ML 13000, which offers inline preand post-treatments with pigment inks. The pretreatment liquid, ejected through one of the printheads, jets a surfactant agent to pull the ink to the surface of the fabric, which helps to make the print more colorful. Another printhead jets a binder for increased fastness properties, while another printhead jets a softener to improve the hand of the fabric.

• ML 16000 hybrid, which combines piezo-electric printheads with microvalves. The printheads jet pigment colorant and the microvalves are able to jet paste for effects such as metallic and white pigmented color.

• ML 3200, which has a printable width of 340 centimeters and 32 printheads. This printer can be configured to print two pieces of fabric simultaneously, thus increasing productivity and reducing energy and resource consumption.

Italy-based EFI Reggiani showed the opportunity to step up in machine width with its Hyper model available as a 1.8-, 2.4-, or 3.4-meter-wide machine. Equipped with 72 printheads and ink recirculation up to the nozzle

ITMADigitalPrinting-RTP.qxd

11/16/23

1:14 AM

plate, it can print two pass, production quality at speeds up to 13 linear m/min on a 1.5-meter-wide roll. The widest machine also offers dual-roll capability to print two different, narrower substrates at once at throughput speeds of up to 20 m/minute. This is an interesting concept, shown by Italy-based Durst at the last ITMA show, which requires special machine and software engineering.

Italy-based Dover Industries Italy (DII) (MS Printing Solutions & JK Group brands), also featured scaling opportunities within its scanning line. At the top end, the Mini Lario has been upgraded and now has eight rows with up to eight heads per row and can print at a speed of 1,000 meters per hour. This is one of the fastest scan type printers on the market. DII (MS & JK brands) reports that the Mini Lario can be precisely color matched to production on the Lario to enable longer production runs of the same design and colorway should the need arise.

In addition, DII (MS & JK brands) showed the reengineered JP7 machine and system that significantly improves the sustainability of the entire printing process. The center of this optimized, sustainable printing system is Digistar Pigment 4K, a patent pending colorant set that eliminates pretreatment, thereby reducing chemical and water usage, as well as time and cost. The printer also includes a new zerowastewater recirculation system that reduces up to 90 percent of water waste typically generated in a 40-hour working cycle. To further optimize a sustainable printing process, a new ink recirculation system from DII (MS & JK brands) prevents nozzle blocking, which is a primary cause of print fabric defects that leads to fabric and colorant wastage. Gradus, its in-line drying system, ensures minimal energy consumption; and because the modular system allows curing and drying all in one, carbon dioxide emissions are reduced.

Austria-based Zimmer Austria Inc. — a producer of machines for textile and carpet finishing including

Page 25

Above left: Fabric featuring metallic ink produced on Epson’s Monna Lisa ML-16000/HY Above right: A JP7 from Dover Industries Italy (MS Printing Solutions & JK Group brands)

digital printing systems, flat and rotary screen printing, coating systems, steaming, washing and drying — showcased the Colaris3 high-performance pretreatment, digital printing and colorant systems for applications that require colorant penetration through the substrate such as carpeting, towels, and plush or heavy automotive and home décor fabrics. The Colaris series of printers can be used with a variety of colorants such as reactive, disperse, acid, pigment and vat. Inline preand post-treatment systems can be added to improve print quality and increase ink penetration. The Colaris printer has 16 printheads for a larger color gamut, increased speed, or flexibility to run multiple types of colorants. Zimmer has added a vision camera detection system to its Colaris digital printers. The Colarisvision I – Match Print to Cut includes individual piece goods recognition and outline masking with automated computation of the print mask positioning for design customization.

Zimmer’s Colaris-vision II – Match to Print is a roll-to-roll print process with seamless detection of a preimagined fabric followed by a registered print. The system has an automated distortion compensation that ensures the print is fitted precisely into the given structure on a web. The design can be fitted exactly onto the substrate despite of any weft-misalignment or shrinkage from fabric preparation in the pre-print process

Advanced Materials As part of the textile industry’s current focus on sustainability, vendors continue to ramp up investment in the development of solutions that reduce water, chemical and material waste.

Digital dyeing, inline pre-treatment, and pigment printing all have the potential to improve sustainability. In particular, pigment colorant was featured by a large number of vendors.

As pigment technology matures, competition is increasing in a way that is leading to improvements in print quality and innovations in chemistry and application. Further adoption of ink recirculation strategies is a contributing factor to the success of pigments and this idea was highlighted

by EFI Reggiani in its Hyper system.

Ink recirculation was also mentioned

by DII (MS & JK brands) in regard to its redesigned JP7 technology in combination with the Digistar Pigment 4K. Integrated softening and pretreatment innovations from multiple solution providers is paving the way for greater acceptance of pigment printed fabric. Japan-based Kyocera Corp., a key supplier of industrial printhead technology to textile developers, has joined the mix with the introduction of Forearth technology, and highlighted the ability to print on a broad range of fabrics.

Other advanced material innovations included China-based Atexco’s double-sided printing technology and reactive colorant that does not require a post treatment for cotton substrates.

Textile World NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

25

ITMADigitalPrinting-RTP.qxd

11/16/23

1:15 AM

Page 26

Above: Alchemie Technology’s Endeavour™ is a breakthrough waterless dyeing process.

Left: Atexco’s double-sided printing technology uses a camera and imaging software to scan the printed fabric for alignment and ink penetration for precise printing on the reverse side of the fabric.

Overall, vendors illustrated the compatibility of digital printing with tricky-to-manage substrates including knits and lightweight apparel fabrics. This was particularly evident in the pigment printing area that had previously demonstrated poor fabric hand and color quality. New pigment technologies are opening-up the possibility for pigment printed fabric adoption in a broader range of product areas and markets.

Special Effects Advances in pigment technology also are enabling special effect printing.

During the show, Israel-based Kornit Digital Ltd. demonstrated a white pigment capability that enables imaging on colored grounds and when combined with its Xdi technology, creates a unique, raised, textural look.

Epson has taken this theme one step further with the introduction of the ML 16000 Hybrid machine that combines piezo-electric printheads with microvalves. The printheads jet pigment colorant while the microvalves jet paste to create effects

26

including metallic and white pigmented color. Epson’s Genesta water-based inks guarantee color accuracy and fastness properties, while the special pastes — developed and produced by Italy-based Epson Como Printing Technologies S.r.l.

— create the special effects.

Digital Dyeing And Finishing Although pigments offer a sustainability advantage over dye-based colorants for digital printing, digital application methods for solid colors offer the potential for a much greater reduction in environmental footprint.

Toward that end, England-based Alchemie Technology’s Endeavour™ digital dyeing technology applies liquid colorants to fabrics using a unique non-contact highenergy jetting of nano-droplets, delivering exceptionally homogeneous color throughout the fabric.

This breakthrough waterless, lowcarbon, digital dyeing technology, supports dye houses in reducing costs — dramatically cutting energy and carbon dioxide emissions by 85 percent, water use by 95 percent, and also eliminates wastewater pollution in the dyeing process.

Alchemie’s Novara™ digital textile finishing technology delivers sustainability with precision digital applica-

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 TextileWorld.com

tion of functional finishes to textiles.

Novara is a non-contact, low energy, low chemistry, digital finishing solution that enables textile finishing houses to dramatically reduce their carbon and chemical footprint and reduce costs, using 85-percent less energy and up to 50-percent less chemistry compared to traditional methods, according to Alchemie.

Novara delivers precisely defined digitally controlled finishes only where needed. It also enables product innovations including single-side finishing, 2D finish to shape, and allows multiple finishes to be applied to one fabric in a way that is not possible using traditional methods of immersing the entire fabric in a chemical bath. In addition, Alchemie also offers Discovery, a laboratory system that replicates production machines, and may be used for recipe development, color matching and new material process development.

Direct-To-Film Printing Shenzhen Inkbank Graphic Technology Co. Ltd. (Inkbank), China, and Japan-based Mimaki showed direct-to-film (DTF) technologies for rapidly printing garments.

DTF printing eliminates the need for fabric selection, plate making and pretreatment as compared to the time and resource intensive processes required for silk screen, heat transfer — rubber sheet method — or directto-garment (DTG) printing. The DTF process is simple, and in this way, offers a sustainability advantage. First, the design is printed directly onto a special transfer film which is then sprinkled with hot-melt powder. Once heated and dried, the transfer sheet can be applied using a heat press. The one drawback is the waste created because a transfer material is used.

Mimaki offers the TXF150 for DTF. The PHT50 inks used for this printing process are heat transfer waterbased pigments that are OEKO-TEX certified. The inks are safe and meet the criteria for ecologically responsible textile manufacturing, according to the company.

ITMADigitalPrinting-RTP.qxd

11/16/23

1:15 AM

Page 27

Artificial Intelligence And Automation As digital textile printing technology matures and adoption of complex, high-speed printing systems grows, solution providers also are demonstrating greater investment in the creation of intelligent systems that ease technology management by enabling monitoring and optimized printer performance. Software applications are aimed at providing visibility that helps reduce machine downtime and operating cost, while minimizing waste. As customers invest in multiple print systems to scale print capacity, software strategies for automated system calibration and fleet management also are becoming increasingly relevant. Additionally, to help drive growth in adoption, technology providers are advancing digital workflow solutions designed to assist with order management and automation of repetitive file processing tasks.

A preview of the DII (MS & JK brands) System Plus Software, a new print management system, exemplifies the trend toward intelligent systems. The technology integrates calibration, printing software and ink for a robust, time saving solution.

Used with DII (MS & JK brands) pigments and printers, the software system reduces calibration time by 50 percent, increases the color yield by up to 20 percent and increases the brightness of the colors by up to 15 percent. This system’s machine learning platform, the first-of-its-kind to be commercially available for digital printing, enables information to be gathered during the printing process to optimize current and future print runs. This software has the potential to eliminate print defects and reduce the amount of colorant needed.

DII (MS & JK brands) innovation is focused on a highly optimized manufacturing process. During ITMA, the company demonstrated the combined significance of advancing printer hardware and workflow in a working environment by way of organized plant visits to the Italybased IMPRIMA printing mill.

During ITMA, interested parties were able to tour the IMPRIMA print mill to view Dover Industries Italy (MS Printing Solutions & JK Group brands) technologies in action.

IMPRIMA is a cluster of digital print operations with the capability to print 35 million meters of fabric annually. IMPRIMA largely serves the European luxury market, but also prints for U.S.-based brands such as Walmart, Target, Macy’s and Ralph Lauren, among other brands.

Kornit promoted its QualiSet technology, which is described as a smart, autonomous approach to calibration aimed at printhead registration, nozzle testing, compensation and color consistency. Paired with the previously introduced Konnect system for monitoring printer performance and consumables, the company now offers greater ability to manage the print operation at the fleet level. Production monitoring was also highlighted by Epson for printers connected to the cloud-based PORT system, and by EFI Reggiani which showed the Query software solution that collects data and enables analysis and tracking of printer performance, cost and sustainability metrics such as water and energy consumption.

In addition, robust solutions for automating portions of the production process to reduce or eliminate labor are emerging in the digital printing sector. Kornit showed a fully automated DTG printing solution that reduces labor and increases production speed. Kornit’s Apollo DTG printer can print up to 400 garments

per hour. Kornit’s patented wet-onwet printing system eliminates the need for pre-treatment. The Apollo, geared toward t-shirt printers who seek a near-shoring option, features in-line heat fixation, and an automated loading and unloading system.

Harnessing Digital Printing Innovations It was exciting to see the growth in digital printing technologies at ITMA 2023. Even more impressive was seeing some of these technologies successfully implemented in a production setting at IMPRIMA. Held in Milan, ITMA 2023 was located just a short distance from the Como region of Italy, long considered the luxury printing capital of the world. This region has changed from almost entirely rotary and flat screen printing to digital printing, allowing the industry to service sectors beyond the luxury market. It serves as a great example of harnessing the full capabilities of digital printing innovations. TW Editor’s Note: Kerry Maguire King has more than 25 years working in the digital printing field. King played a role in the development of Spoonflower’s manufacturing platform, and currently is working as a consultant while continuing her education in the Ph.D. program at the Wilson College of Textiles at North Carolina State University, Raleigh, N.C.

Textile World NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

27

Dornier-RTP3.qxd

11/16/23

2:28 AM

Page 2

SUPPLIER NOTES

Peter Brust (left) and Oliver Meier (right) staged a rapier yarn transfer, aided by company CEO Peter Dornier, to mark the transition in leadership at AmDo.

American Dornier:

Focus On Leadership, Technology And Training

Dornier’s recent Technology Day held at its Charlotte location showcased AmDo’s capabilities for the North American market.

TW Special Report

GG

ermany-based Lindauer Dornier GmbH (LiDo) began shipping its rapier weaving machines to the United States in the 1960s.

Burlington and Milliken & Company were its first U.S. customers, and the machines quickly proved themselves and signaled a shift from shuttle looms to a shuttleless design in the United States. By 1977, more than 2,000 Dornier weaving machines were installed in North Carolina and the surrounding area; and in 1978, Field Engineer and Salesman Hans Geiger was tasked with locating a suitable place to establish American Dornier (AmDo). An old Trützschler location in Charlotte was acquired and AmDo — Dornier’s oldest subsidiary — had a home. The original 1,100-squaremeter building was expanded to 3,000 square meters in 1997.

Dornier’s technologies include film stretching lines for biaxial polypropylene and polyester films; the P2 rapier and A2 air-jet weaving

28

machines; myDoX digital solution; and Dornier Composite Systems ® comprising the PROTOS ® TP for unidirectional tapes, PROTOS TW for woven tape fabrics and TRITOS® for multilayer and 3D fabrics, among other technologies.

From this original location, AmDo still serves the Americas with its 30person team in the following areas: weaving machine sales and support; film stretching equipment support; spare parts; installation, service and personnel training; film stretching clip chain overhaul and repair; and marketing.

The company recently saw a transfer of management and the change seemed like an opportune time to host an open house — Technology Day 2023 — to showcase the capabilities and technologies available in the United States. Oliver Meier recently took the helm of AmDo as executive vice president.

He replaced the retiring Peter Brust

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 TextileWorld.com

who had run the operation for 22 years. During the Technology Day, Meier and Brust conducted a yarn transfer from a left-hand to a righthand rapier in a symbolic display of the change of management. The transfer was assisted by Peter D. Dornier, LiDo CEO since 2001 who came from Germany along with other Dornier executives to participate in the Technology Day. The event gathered guests who came from the various markets that Dornier serves — traditional weaving, composites and film production.

Meier started the day with a warm welcome for the guests, and Dornier provided a little history of the company, which actually got its start with his grandfather, Claude Dornier, in aircraft design and construction, before LiDo was established in 1950 and the company transitioned into a manufacturer of textile equipment.

Josef Klingele, head of Product Line Composite Systems, next gave an in-depth presentation highlighting all the technologies offered by Dornier.

Dornier also recognizes the importance of an aging workforce and the need to attract and train new talent.

To that end, the company has an apprentice program in Germany and also offers training classes at AmDo. Martin Kaess, head of Training — known as the Ausbildungsleiter in German — explained Dornier’s offerings during Technology Day. Kaess explained the company’s dual training system available in Germany that combines theoretical instruction at vocational school two days a week with practical skills at Dornier for the remainder of the week. Trainees can earn money while gaining work experience and knowledge at school in order to become a qualified employee at the end of the apprenticeship. The program is open to international applicants as well as

Dornier-RTP3.qxd

11/16/23

1:22 AM

Page 3

Martin Kaess

Oliver Meier

Peter D. Dornier Richard Clarke, Warehouse & Logistics

Dan Caudill, Electronics Terry Ellis, Gear Box Repair Shop

Christian Kroell explaining the CCOS

German nationals. The program includes employment opportunities at LiDo, AmDo, as well as a path to German citizenship. Apprenticeship paths include technical training in metals such as machinists, and industrial or construction mechanics; and in electronics or mechatronics. All programs can lead to a Bachelor of Engineering if so desired.

Kaess explained that the company also is in the process of establishing a training center set to open in 2025.

The 10,000-square-foot facility will host up to 75 trainees teaching them about the latest machinery and tools, modern CAD/CAM systems, and mechanical and electrical systems using engaging projects.

AmDo also offers continuous education and training seminars in

Josef Klingele

Charlotte. In 2024, seminars on the following topics will be available: • Rapier weaving machines; • Air-jet weaving machines; • Electronics, both AT and FT; • Electronic Mini Camps; and • Supervisor training.

After the presentations, visitors participated in guided tours of the U.S. operation, which included a look at the Electronics Repair Shop, Spare Parts Department, Gear Box Repair Shop, Clip Chain Overhaul Service (CCOS), Weave Room and Tape Room. Dornier emphasizes the durability and repairability of its machines and many older models are still in operation with the assistance and care from Dornier technicians and spare parts program.

In the afternoon, attendees could

observe Dornier technology in action including the A2 and P2, and the Protos tape weaving machine. The company also offered demonstrations of its MyDox digital platform.

“The event was a great opportunity to introduce the PROTOS Tape Weaving to the North American market,” Klingele said. “The customer feedback received was very positive and encouraging and reflects the right direction for Dornier in this market sector” “The effort we put into this event was well worth it,” Meier added. “We have been happy to receive so much positive feedback from our customers, and already are discussing the possibility of an event next year and how we can make it even more impactful for the industry.” TW

Textile World NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

29

KarlMayerRTP.qxd

11/16/23

2:30 AM

Page 30

SUPPLIER NOTES

Textiles Innovation Conference

Fosters Connections KARL MAYER North America recently hosted the inaugural Textiles Innovation Conference designed to connect the textile manufacturing industry in the United States.

By Jim Kaufmann, Contributing Editor

GG

enerally speaking, transporting and setting up textile manufacturing machinery at trade shows held in North America can be difficult and expensive. Granted, for new and perspective customers, machine manufacturers can be very open and accommodating to visitors at their locations, but that interest still needs to be developed and fostered. Couple this with the fact that International Textile Machinery Association (ITMA), the granddaddy of global textile and machinery trade shows, only comes around once every four years and it is easy to understand why textile machinery manufacturers continue to explore new ways to showcase their latest offerings. However, after attending the recent Karl Mayer Stoll Textiles Innovation Conference, it is evident that the Karl Mayer Group has taken this effort to a different and interestingly higher level.

Held recently at its North American headquarters in Greensboro, N.C., the event had the overall feel of a boutique trade show. “Last year was our first of this kind,” said Matthew Llewellyn, director of sales and marketing for Stoll by Karl Mayer. “It was smaller in scale and we only focused on the Stoll weft knit product line, but we received positive feedback from the participants and certainly learned a lot.

30

This year we expanded the conference to include the Karl Mayer products — warping and warp knitting technologies — and invited a broader list of exhibitors from different aspects of the supply chain, from fiber to finished product, to create more of a whole eco-system type event.”

Mariano Amezcua, who was named president of Karl Mayer North America earlier this year, added: “We didn’t want to view this simply as a Karl Mayer or Stoll event. It’s a textile community event intended to highlight all aspects of this industry. You do need the whole supply chain to make a product, so we tried to bring all the industry segments together to foster those connections.”

Throughout the three-day event, attendees saw numerous presentations, learned about exhibitors from different aspects of the industry, and observed various warping and warp and weft knitting machine demonstrations.

Varied Presentations With Common Inspiration The presentations offered covered a wide variety of topics, though knitting was a central theme. Highlights included: Donna Brin, president of Little River, S.C.-based manufacturer

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 TextileWorld.com

Bfive40, who offered that 3D knitting technologies generally reduce waste and processing steps, while providing the ability to configure structures to specifically what is needed in the application. “Ultimately you produce items faster by cutting out subsequent production steps and with 3D knitting, the labor is in the machine,” Brin said during her presentation. “The constraints of labor are critical throughout the industry, not just in the U.S., and because of this, we need to look at costs differently with a view towards the whole system as opposed to just the individual components.” Brin noted she prefers to ask, “What steps can we take to cut out downstream operations through 3D knitting to reduce overall costs specific to the part?”

Tomas Infantes Schnoor, service manager for technical textiles at Karl Mayer, who addressed industry service challenges by reaffirming that “tribal knowledge” is disappearing throughout all segments of the textile industry as the average worker age continues to rise and there is an inherent lack of organized transfer of that wealth of knowledge forward. To aid in improving this concern, Karl Mayer/Stoll is starting an academy in North America for training, which will also assist in the transfer and preservation of industry knowledge.

Kayla Franklin, assistant trade marketing manager for Greensboro, N.C.-based Unifi Inc.’s Repreve ® brand, who informed attendees that more than 35 billion plastic bottles have been recycled to date to produce the company’s Repreve fiber. According to Unifi’s calculations, this number translates to a reduction in carbon dioxide emissions of more than 1 billion units and the saving of approximately 5 billion gallons of water to date. Franklin also mentioned that Repreve contains a unique tracer in the yarn allowing companies and customers to determine if the product content is in fact Repreve. In addition, Unifi is continuing to develop a “Textile Takeback” program focused on the recycling of textile fabrics into recycled filament yarn.

KarlMayerRTP.qxd

11/16/23

1:24 AM

Page 31

Reid Hix, sales and business development manager for Karl Mayer, who presented warp knit variations of “woven” fabrics for slacks and dresses. Upon review of the samples provided, it was rather difficult to tell if the fabric was a woven or knit simply from their look and feel. Karl Mayer’s development and testing has found that warp knit versions outperform weaving technologies in speed and output by up to 13 times.

Hix noted that while wovens are more stable and like-constructions tend to be lighter in weight, warp knits are softer and more durable.

Andre West, director of the Zeis Textile Extension Wilson College of Textiles at North Carolina State University, who provided an update on the college’s new Flex Factory Prototype Lab intended to primarily focus on product and application development (See “Flex Factory: Hub for New Ideas,” TW, March/April 2023). “We have the ability to develop fabrics at the university, and it only made sense to also provide our students and interested parties a facility to also develop applications from these fabrics,” Dr. West said. More equipment is on order and will be installed to encompass cut-and-sew through 3D printing, digital printing and other areas to complement the assorted textile labs already functioning within the Wilson College of Textiles. Dr. West also echoed concerns specific to the need for textile training programs and the collective efforts being made by NC State and its partner institutions.

Exhibitors, Machine Demonstrations And Networking Opportunities Those participating in the exhibitor segment of the event represented varied aspects of the supply chain including machine suppliers, fiber and fabric producers, product design firms, and universities. Attendees and exhibitors alike appeared to embrace the event and the numerous scheduled opportunities to interact with others throughout the supply chain.

Wolfgang Philipps, a senior Knit

Engineer at Priority Designs, an employee-owned design firm based in Columbus, Ohio, felt “It was a great chance to connect with suppliers and potential customers, while gaining insights into the latest in technologies and sharing our unique capabilities with the knitting community.”

Overall, the event was well-executed and feedback was very positive.

“I’m still learning about this industry, so the talks were very interesting and it was great to be introduced to the different sectors from yarn suppliers through to where and how the technology is applied” said Lauren Street, a digital knit graduate assistant at the School of Fashion at Kent State University, which was also an exhibitor.

Forrest Sloan — manager, international marketing — Kuraray’s Vectran fiber and polymer, offered: “The people here have a focus and the equipment to make custom products, so participating was a good fit for us where we can showcase Vectran, which is geared more towards technical, custom and niche products. Vectran receives better recognition from this type of crowd who tend to be on the higher end of our spectrum with more knowledge of high-performance textiles and applications. They’re not the typical low-cost manufacturing types we find at the larger, more traditional, textile events. It’s also nice to see actual equipment developments within the same setting, not only machines, but yarn handling, tensioning, yarn path improvements, and the respective technicians that all help us to better understand where issues may occur with a product like Vectran. It’s been a real positive experience!”

The Karl Mayer Group’s goal was to

create a more comfortable and easy atmosphere where participants would feel they could engage. Because there wasn’t the obligatory fees to exhibit or attend found at most other events, there was a broader variety of participants present. “They did well to mix random folks and the people who actually get their hands dirty from different segments of the industry, each with their own perspectives and needs, not just the sales folks or executives typically found at the bigger shows,” West said. “The social time provided is valuable for all to intermix in a smaller, more intimate setting; much better for networking. It really almost feels like a juried show where much of the audience is culled from various segments throughout the industry.”

According to Llewellyn and Amezcua, the plan is to continue hosting similar events annually with improvements made as more feedback is gathered. This may include a facility tour at future events and more matches throughout textile supply chain sectors. “It’s nice to see different segment representatives talking together and looking for ways to work together more effectively,” Amezcua said. We’ll keep working to help make those connections because that’s how we all win!

“Next year, we also want to focus on brand leadership and their needs from the textile manufacturing community,” Amezcua added. “We will invite key brands from the apparel, footwear, and furniture industries.

Ultimately, we want to integrate automation and on-demand principles to provide unique, higher-margin products to brands and their consumers.” TW

Textile World NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

31

PaperTale-RTP2.qxd

11/16/23

1:25 AM

Page 32

TECHNOLOGY

A diagram illustrating how the PaperTale technology works

Blockchain For Social Change

GG

one are the days when compliance meant checking off boxes on a form. A myriad of new due diligence legislation is in the pipeline, and legislation already in effect is revealing heavy consequences.

One noteworthy example is a case against IKEA regarding the labor conditions for IKEA suppliers in Bangladesh and Pakistan. This case was brought about because of the Norwegian Transparency Act implemented in 2022 1 . The act requires companies to carry out due diligence activities to ensure they operate responsibly, respecting human rights and decent working conditions. The Norwegian Consumer Protection Authority (NCPA) investigating the case ruled that IKEA did not breach the law, but this verdict was based on time constraints: the complaint was issued on the day the law came into force. Notably, the NCPA warned that companies are expected to deliver a higher level of due diligence from now on, with little room for exemption based on contractual confidentiality.

Stricter legislation also extends beyond European borders. This is

32

Blockchain technologies can be used to empower suppliers and workers.

TW Special Report demonstrated by legislative developments in the United States. The Corporate Governance Improvement and Investor Protection Act was passed by the house in June 2021 and is currently before the senate.

This act would require companies to periodically disclose information, including metrics, related to social and governance performance2.

It can thus be concluded that the conventional approach of relying solely on audits is becoming obsolete from a regulatory standpoint. But pressure regarding due diligence is also increasing from non-legislative parties. According to a survey conducted in 2020 by Fashion For Good, 69 percent of consumers want to know how their clothes were made, as opposed to 59 percent in 20183.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 TextileWorld.com

Furthermore, in a 2020 survey conducted by Eurobarometer, nearly half of Europeans “totally agreed that clothes labeling should contain information on both environmental impact and working conditions of the workers4.” Additionally, in September, Nike’s shareholders issued a letter, pressing the company to pay $2.2 million to compensate garment workers who had claimed wage theft at supplier factories.

These pressures raise the question of how companies can stand strong in the face of this rapidly evolving compliance landscape. Companies need to put themselves in a future-proof position, to withstand legislation that becomes increasingly stringent and maintain a relationship of trust with consumers and shareholders.

Here, PaperTale, a Sweden-based technology company steps in as a transformative enabler, using blockchain technology as a unique tool.

Common Application Of Blockchain Technology Blockchain technology already is in use as a tool for tracing materials. This

PaperTale-RTP2.qxd

11/16/23

1:25 AM

Page 33

is one way in which PaperTale uses the technology — its system creates a digital duplicate, also known as a “digital twin,” for each material.

When the physical material moves to the next party in the supply chain, the same action is mirrored in the digital realm. This transaction is recorded on the blockchain, along with confirmation from the receiving party that the physical material matches its digital twin. For an extra layer of validation, evidence of material purchase can also be included. Through this process, materials can be tracked throughout the entire supply chain.

With blockchain, transactions are validated and stored by a community as opposed to conventional systems where data is stored by one party, in which case the data can easily be manipulated by that party. The benefit of involving multiple parties is that it becomes nearly impossible to change the data: before recording the data, all parties have to validate it together. Once data is recorded, every party maintains the data history in chronological order, so that changes cannot be made without notifying the entire community.

PaperTale’s use of blockchain technology is unique because it employs a public blockchain rather than a private one. Because the community recording and validating data is open to everyone in a public blockchain, PaperTale argues that it results in a more inclusive type of transparency. However, the degree of transparency is still customizable: every party using the solution can choose to put some data on the Blockchain, while restricting access to other — more sensitive — data.

The type of data that the blockchain is applied to is another way that distinguishes PaperTale’s use of the technology. PaperTale uses blockchain for data related to environmental impact and material tracking, which is fairly common. The innovative aspect of PaperTale’s technology lies especially in applying the technology to the social impact of production, as this is still largely unexplored.

Using Blockchain For Social Governance First, it is possible to map out the workforce in a factory by registering workers’ IDs. This is done by simply integrating PaperTale’s system with enterprise resource planning (ERP) and product lifecycle management (PLM) systems, which are already in place in a large part of the industry.

PaperTale tested multiple methods for the verification of IDs and landed on banks as a suitable third party. ID registration opens the door for the main asset of using blockchain in social governance — wage verification of workers along the supply chain. Wage transactions can then directly be connected to the blockchain. As a result, other parties like brands, consumers, and legislators have direct insight into verified wage payments, with high confidence that this data is authentic and has not been manipulated. It is worth noting that displaying the exact wage is optional with blockchain.

Currently, the PaperTale system checks whether the wages are above the threshold defined by the local law of the area where a facility is located.

It could be argued that payment according to law is not high enough as a standard, but PaperTale’s solution is being developed with a focus on the supplier’s perspective. As suppliers can face financial pressures, increasing wages by a fixed amount can be difficult in the short term.

Instead of raising the wage threshold in the system, PaperTale therefore came up with a different approach — the profit-sharing system. Here, a percentage of the net profits are shared amongst all employees of the factory. This percentage is distributed in a way that promotes equal opportunity and reflects the collective effort and dedication of the entire workforce. The mechanism of distribution is still being fine-tuned, as well as educating workers about how the calculation takes place.

Whereas capturing the financial reality of workers is quite black and white, other factors of social governance, such as workplace safety, are

The happiness of a factory worker is the primary inspiration behind the PaperTale app.

more of a gray zone. However, having ventured into this uncharted territory, PaperTale reports that it is possible to connect social governance-related data with a fairly high confidence level to the blockchain.

A Supplier’s Perspective Building on the ID registration of the workers, PaperTale built an app for the workers to use. This app opened up further possibilities to gather on-site data, and for connecting workers directly to the system.

The app gives workers the ability to view their contracts and salaries. In turn, they can check whether the two correspond, and press “verify” if this is the case. The percentage of workers that have verified their wages then turns into data about the facility. For example, facilities where more than 80 percent of workers have confirmed their wages can be rewarded. Likewise, workplace safety can be measured by sending forms to workers that allow them to answer questions about their working environment. Worker attendance can be tracked through devices that allow workers to record the clock-in and clock-out times for their shifts, using fingerprint scanning and facial recognition technology. After implementing this, PaperTale found that

Textile World NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

33

PaperTale-RTP2.qxd

11/16/23

1:26 AM

Page 34

Moving Beyond Blockchain’s Hype

A worker using the PaperTale Workers App on a kiosk located in the Outso factory in Pakistan.

attendance data can be combined with the contractual functionality of the workers’ app and functionality was added that requires employers to request overtime from the workers through the app. In this way, overtime hours are added automatically to the wage calculation, which workers can then monitor for themselves and verify through the app.

With this method, PaperTale’s system is a tool for worker empowerment in parallel with supplier empowerment, breaking the cycle of imposing demands on suppliers that they are unable to meet due to resource constraints. The system allows suppliers to showcase their efforts, and use this as an enabler to build trust for compliance. Brands can then extend this trust to their consumers and shareholders.

Although PaperTale’s system has not reached a 100-percent confidence level for data related to working conditions, manipulating this system would take significantly more effort than manipulating audits. But while audits are not the main focus of PaperTale’s new method, they still play a role. Rather than being the centerpiece, they are a component of PaperTale’s solution. For example, periodical audits are used to measure building safety. These audits are per-

34

formed by auditing bodies that can verify the results in PaperTale’s system, after which the results are published onto the blockchain. In this way, conventional methods like audits are combined with innovation to form building blocks of a more solid system.

To optimize results, innovation should continuously take place with ongoing reflection on outcomes.

PaperTale’s technology is being implemented and tested on the ground in the Outso Wearables factory, in Lahore, Pakistan. Outso has successfully implemented worker ID and wage registration, verification of wages by workers through the app, recording attendance, and even the profit-sharing mechanism. One gap PaperTale identified is training workers to educate them about their rights and thereby maximize their ability to benefit from the technology. Outso’s workers are closely involved in PaperTale’s solution development. To measure worker satisfaction, the Outso factory carried out an anonymous survey that measured the satisfaction level of workers as compared to their previous workplace. After implementing the measures mentioned above, worker satisfaction had improved from 71 to 93 percent. The factory also experienced fewer delays and improved quality of work.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 TextileWorld.com

PaperTale is eager to demonstrate that recording certification on blockchain technology is only the start of what the technology can do.

By supplementing certification with real-time environmental and social data, the full potential of blockchain technology can be unlocked.

The aforementioned usage of a public blockchain is another way of going beyond blockchain’s hype, and to tackle the issue of techwashing. The company noticed that the phrase “Blockchain Technology” is frequently used for public relationsrelated reasons rather than practical, on-the-ground innovation. Such blockchain-related techwashing came as no surprise to PaperTale, given the share of obstacles the company had to overcome to develop a scalable blockchain solution that does not become a burden for brands or suppliers and is built for reality.

Becoming Future-Proof PaperTale envisions a future in which ethical and sustainable practices are not goals but essential components of every business.

The company’s transformational approach that empowers both workers and suppliers sets the stage for a future in which trust is the foundation of business. A futureproof industry can be built if brands, suppliers, and consumers come together in a collective commitment to social and environmental responsibility. PaperTale aims to be the catalyst for the continuous innovation and collaboration needed to realize such a future. The current crises we face as a society did not arise in isolation. As such, the change required to address them cannot occur in isolation either. TW References: 1 Act relating to enterprises' transparency and work on fundamental human rights and decent working conditions (Transparency Act) — Lovdata 2 H.R.1187 — 117th Congress (2021-2022): Corporate Governance Improvement and Investor Protection Act 3 Consumer Survey Report : Fashion Revolution 4 Surveys — Eurobarometer

BBPeople.qxd

11/16/23

1:27 AM

Page 1

BulletinBoard Tajikistan-based terry products manufacturer Arvis LLC has joined the Zurich-based International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) as a corporate member.

The Lycra Co., Wilmington, Del., has launched Lycra® FiT400™ fiber, a bicomponent fiber engineered for optimal performance in knits.

Q-Lab, Westlake, Ohio, recently was honored with two National Top Workplace awards — one for employee appreciation

and a second for employee well-being. Previously recognized with Regional Top Workplace awards, this is the first time the company was honored at the national level.

Culp Inc.’s mattress fabrics division, Culp Home Fashions has been recognized as an Environmental Partner by the North Carolina Department of Environmental Quality’s Environmental Stewardship Initiative.

Spartanburg, S.C.-based Milliken & Company was named one of America’s

Best Employers for Veterans 2023, by Forbes and Statista.

The Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry (INDA), Cary, N.C., has published a new report, the “North American Nonwovens Industry Outlook, 2022-2027.” The 12th edition of the report provides demand data from 2017-2022 with additional forecasts through to 2027.

Germany-based Freudenberg Performance Materials Apparel has added two thermal insulation products

to its comfortemp® range.

Down Feel WA 150LB and Fiberball WB 400LB are made using low-level bisphenol A recycled PET fiber.

Switzerland-based Datatex recently opened new offices in Coimbatore, India, and Lahore, Pakistan.

Switzerland-based Archroma reports its Castellbisbal, Spain-based sulfur dye manufacturing and research hub is 100 years old. The company marked the milestone with a ceremony with some 250 guests. TW

People Jeff Crisco was named president of Asheboro Elastic Corp. (AEC Narrow Fabrics), Asheboro, N.C. He will work closely with current CEO Charles Adams until he retires at the end of the year to ensure a smooth leadership transition.

Dr.Andreas Raps has been named CEO and Marco Altherr CFO of Germany-based Freudenberg Performance Materials, effective January 1, 2024.

Wes Fisher, director of Government Affairs with the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry (INDA), Cary,

N.C., was named a 2023 Top Lobbyist by the National Institute for Lobbying and Ethics (NILE).

PrimaLoft Inc., Latham, N.Y., has appointed Anne Cavassa president.

The French Textile Machinery Association (UCMTF), Paris, named Mireille Jautzy secretary general. She replaced Christian Guinet who retired.

Delos Custom Rugs & Carpet, Calhoun, Ga., recently hired Lacey Stinnett as director of design and Tina Johnson as business development manager.

Paris-based Chargeurs PCC has promoted Giorgio Marcarino to worldwide chief commercial officer.

Francisco Ros has moved into the role of general manager, EMEA, vacated

by Marcarino. In addition, the company has hired Luca Faccioli as chief information officer and Bertrand Venault as chief people officer.

Home Furnishings International, Gaffney, S.C. has added Bally Faudar as senior vice president and Erin Gallagher-Brinskele as vice president, Kitchen Textiles. Both hires report to Amy Bell, executive vice

president and chief merchandising officer.

Gap Inc. veteran Shawn Curran has joined Baltimore-based Under Armour as chief supply chain officer. He reports to President and CEO Stephanie Linnartz.

South Korea-based Hyosung recently appointed Laura Nilo U.S. marketing manager, West Coast; and Christiane Rauch was named senior consultant, Northern Europe – Hyosung Spandex.

Minette Bellingan was named COO of Germanybased C&A Europe. TW

Textile World NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

35

CalendarND23_3.qxd

11/16/23

1:27 AM

Page 42

Calendar JANUARY 2024 3-5: 2024 Beltwide Cotton Conferences, organized by the National Cotton Council of America, Omni Fort Worth Hotel, Fort Worth,Texas.Visit cotton.org/beltwide.

9-12: Heimtextil 2024, Messe Frankfurt fairground, Frankfurt, Germany.Visit heimtextil. messefrankfurt.com.

11-14: Domotex 2024, Hannover, Germany.Visit domotex.de/en.

16-19: IM Intermoda, Expo Guadalajara, Guadalajara, Mexico.

Visit intermoda.com.mx/en.

17-18: Première Vision New York,Tribeca 360, New York City.Visit newyork.premiere vision.com 22-24:Texworld Evolution — comprising Texworld New York City, Apparel Sourcing New York City and Printsource — Javits Center, New York City.

Visit texworld-usa.us. messefrankfurt.com.

23-25: Colombiatex de las Américas and Colombiamoda 2024, Plaza Mayor, Medellín, Colombia.Visit ferias. inexmoda.org.co/en.

25-27: Marine Fabricators Conference 2024, organized by the Advanced Textiles Association (ATA),Tradewinds Islands Resorts, St. Pete, Fla. Visit marine.textiles.org.

FEBRUARY 1-3: Gartex Texprocess India, Jio World Convention Centre, Mumbai, India. gartexindia.com.

36

5-7:Texworld Evolution Paris — comprising Texworld,Texworld Denim, Apparel Sourcing, Avantex and Leatherworld — Paris Porte de Versailles, Paris, France.Visit texworld-paris. fr.messefrankfurt.com.

8-10: Première Vision Paris, Parc des expositions, Paris Nord Villepinte, Paris, France.

Visit paris.premierevision.com.

12-14: Women in Textiles Summit 2024, organized by ATA, Hilton Phoenix Resort at the Peak, Phoenix, Ariz.

Visit textiles.org/events.

13-15: Sourcing at Magic Las Vegas, Las Vegas Convention Center, Las Vegas, Nev. Visit sourcingatmagic.com.

21: Southern Textile Association (STA) Winter Seminar, Textile Technology Center at Gaston College, Belmont, N.C.Visit southerntextile.org.

22-24: 20th International Istanbul Yarn Fair Tüyap Instanbul Fair and Congress Center, Istanbul, Turkey.Visit iplikfuari.com.

28-29: 61st Edition of FILO, Allianz MiCo, Milan, Italy.

Visit filo.it.

27-March 1: EXINTEX 2024, Centro Expositor Puebla, Puebla, Mexico.

Visit exintex.com/en.

MARCH 5-7: JEC World 2024, Parc des expositions, Paris Nord Villepinte, Paris.Visit jec-world.events.

6-8: Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics/Yarn Expo

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 TextileWorld.com

Spring/Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles – Spring Editions, National Exhibition and Convention Center, Shanghai, China.Visit intertextile-shanghaiapparel-fabrics-spring.hk. messefrankfurt.com; yarn-expospring.hk.messefrankfurt.com; and intertextile-shanghaihometextiles-spring.hk. messefrankfurt.com.

23: STA Northern Division Spring Meeting, NC State University, Raleigh, N.C. Visit southerntextile.org.

23-26:Techtextil 2024/Texprocess 2024, Messe Frankfurt fairground, Frankfurt, Germany.Visit techtextil.messefrankfurt.com; texprocess.messefrankfurt.com

MAY 11-14: FESPA Brazil 2024, Expo Center Norte, Sao Paulo, Brazil.

Visit fespabrasil.com.br/en/visite.

19-22: FESPA Global Print Expo 2024, Amsterdam RAI, Amsterdam, the Netherlands.

Visit fespaglobalprintexpo.com.

20-22: Expo Producción 2024, World Trade Center, Mexico City, Mexico.Visit expoproduccion.mx/en.

27: STA Southern Division Spring Meeting, Greenville, S.C.Visit southerntextile.org.

APRIL 9-11: National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) Annual Meeting, Washington, D.C.Visit ncto.org.

16-19: Americas Apparel Producers’ Network (AAPN) Carolina Mill Tour.Visit aapnetwork.net.

1-3: SEAMS,The Association & Voice of the U.S. Sewn Products Industry, 2024 Annual Spring Conference, Myrtle Beach, S.C. Visit seams.org.

5-7: ATA Outlook® Conference, Wild Dunes Resort, Isle of Palms, S.C.Visit usinfi.textiles. org/events/outlook-conference.

19-21: 2024 Southern Textile Research Conference (STRC), Hilton Myrtle Beach Resort, Myrtle Beach, S.C.Visit thestrc.org.

19-21: AAPN 2024 pro: Americas Annual Conference, The Biltmore, Coral Gables, Fla. Visit aapnetwork.net.

20-23: SAMPE 2024 Conference and Exhibition, Long Beach Convention Center, Long Beach, Calif.Visit nasampe.org.

21-23: Emitex/Simatex/ Confemaq 2024, La Rural Trade Center, Buenos Aires, Argentina.

Visit industriatextilexpo.ar. messefrankfurt.com.

17: Synthetic Yarn and Fabric Association (SYFA) second annual golf tournament, Rocky River Golf Course, Concord, N.C.Visit thesyfa.org.

JUNE

18-19: 2024 SYFA Spring Conference, Sheraton Charlotte Airport Hotel, Charlotte, N.C.Visit thesyfa.org.

4-8: Hightex 2024 – International Technical Textiles and Nonwoven Trade Fair,Tüyap Instanbul Fair and Congress Center, Istanbul, Turkey.Visit hightex.com.tr.

CalendarND23_3.qxd

11/16/23

1:27 AM

Page 43

Calendar 4-8: ITM 2024,Tüyap Instanbul Fair and Congress Center, Istanbul,Turkey.Visit itmexhibition.com/itm2024.

16-18:Texworld Evolution New York City, Javits Center, New York City.Visit texworld-usa. us.messefrankfurt.com.

13-14: Furniture Manufacturing Expo, Hickory Metro Convention Center, Hickory, N.C.Visit furnituremanufacturing expo.com.

28-30: STA and Fiber Buyers Group Annual Meeting, Myrtle Beach, S.C.Visit southerntextile.org.

20-23: Febratex 2024, Parque Vila Germânica, Blumenau, Brazil. Visit febratex.com.br.

SEPTEMBER

AUGUST 17-19: Outdoor Retailer, Salt Palace Convention Center, Salt Lake City, Utah.Visit outdoorretailer.com.

1-3: Gar tex Texprocess India, YashoBhoomi (IICC), New Delhi, India. Visit gar texindia.com.

17-20: WOW World of Wipes® International Conference, organized by the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry (INDA), Hyatt Regency Minneapolis, Minneapolis, Minnesota.

Visit worldofwipes.org.

13-14: Texworld and Apparel Sourcing Los Angeles, California Market Center, Los Angeles, Calif. Visit texworld-usa.us.messefrankfur t. com/new-york/en/OurShows/ losangeles.html.

JULY 20-22: Techtextil Nor th America, Raleigh Convention Center, Raleigh, N.C. Visit techtextil-nor th-america.us. messefrankfur t.com.

1-3:Texworld Evolution Paris, Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, Paris, France.Visit texworldparis.fr.messefrankfurt.com.

9-12: CAMX 2024, San Diego Convention Center, San Diego, Calif. Visit thecamx.org.

10-12: Printing United Exposition, Las Vegas, Nevada.

Visit printingunited.com.

19-21: Cinte Techtextil China 2024, Shanghai New International Expo Centre (SNIEC), Shanghai, China. Visit cinte-tech textil-china.hk.messe frankfur t.com.

24-26: Advanced Textiles Expo, organized by ATA, Anaheim, Calif. Visit advancedtextilesexpo.com.

24-26: EDANA Outlook™ 2024, Rome, Italy. Visit edana.org/events/outlook.

CLASSIFIEDS Place Your Classified Ad Today! Call Julie Davis at (678) 522-0404 or e-mail jdavis@textileworld.com Made in USA — Since 1982

OCTOBER 1-3: RISE® conference, organized

by INDA and the Nonwovens Institute, James B. Hunt Jr. Library, NC State University campus, Raleigh, N.C.Visit riseconf.net.

6-8: American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) 2024 Textile Discovery Summit,The Westin Savannah Harbor, Savannah, Ga. Visit aatcc.org/summit.

14-18: ITMA Asia + CITME 2024, National Exhibition and Conference Center, Shanghai, China.Visit itmaasia.com/shanghai2024.

NOVEMBER 7-8: 2024 SYFA Fall Conference, Sheraton Charlotte Airport Hotel, Charlotte, N.C.Visit thesyfa.org.

18-21: Hygienix™ 2024, organized

by INDA,The Renaissance Nashville Hotel, Nashville,Tenn.

Visit hygienix.org. TW

— Advertiser Index — 4M Plants ..........................................................5 Oritain................................................................7 Pailung.............................................................C4 Picanol ............................................................C2 Thies ................................................................21

Tire Cord USA

‘Since 1989’

From Fishnet to Fine Lace

TRICOT & RASCHEL — PRODUCTION IN THE USA

Flat, Tubular, Fishnet, Geogrid, Erosion, Agricultural, Sports, Industrial, Medical, PPE, Ticking GERBER Laser CUTTING & SEWING Knitting Dyeing Finishing Coating to 230 INCHES

336-622-1000 • info@supertex-inc.com

supertex-inc.com

FIBERS & TEXTILES

WAREHOUSING BEAMING RECYCLING

www.tirecordusa.com

Sign Up For YOUR FREE WEEKLYe-Newsletter @ www.textileworld.com

Textile World NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023

37

QFOM-RTP.qxd

11/16/23

1:29 AM

Quality Fabric Of The

Month

By Rachael S. Davis, Executive Editor CONTACTS:

For more information about RHEON™, contact Ross Flew, head of Sales Operations at Rheon Labs, ross.flew@ rheonlabs.com; rheonlabs.com.

Go online to TextileWorld.com for archived Quality Fabric articles.

38

Page 46

Garments featuring Rheon Labs’ RHEON™ energy-absorbing super polymer help athletes perform at the top of their game.

Unlocking Athlete Potential

R

heon Labs® originated with a National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA) project.

Dr. Dan Plant was investigating alternatives for a foam-based material that would not explode in space when he discovered materials that behave in a non-Newtonian way, changing their behavior depending on the forces applied. After the discovery, Dr. Plant worked with a team of engineers, scientists and designers at Imperial College London for 15 years to refine the material.

The technology is known today as energyabsorbing super polymer RHEON™.

The ingredient technology is soft and flexible in its natural state, but stiffens when subjected to force. As the material intelligently strengthens in response to changes in movement, it can control the energy of any amplitude or frequency from small vibrations to life-threatening impacts, according to the company.

Dr. Plant’s interest in the world of sports engineering led him to first explore sport applications for RHEON. Supported by university partners, Rheon Labs’ Head of Design Olga Kravchenko has explored algorithmic design for more than a decade.

This work helps the company generate data to create products based on an athlete’s motion. “Our technology has combined years of biomechanical research with complex chemistry in a way that will unlock a new world of athlete potential and shape a new era of performance,” said Simon Huntsman, director of Apparel at Rheon Labs.

“RHEON has a unique chemistry which means it can be formed into almost endless formats,” Huntsman added.

“In apparel, RHEON film is simply heat-pressed onto base textiles to give them responsive properties. RHEON has worked primarily with synthetic knits

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 TextileWorld.com

and wovens in the early stages of our apparel category, however we have seen few compatibility issues with a range of fabrics so far. The first step of any project is to run compatibility tests on the brand’s textiles, to identify how RHEON can be applied to be most effective.”

Adidas recently launched an Adizero Control x RHEON collection featuring garments designed for elite-level runners.

The garments help “athletes reduce wasted energy and maximize their running performance” by reducing unwanted muscle movements known as shearing. Computer modeling was used to determine the best positioning for strips of Rheon to best support the most important muscle groups when running. According to Rheon Labs, early test results show the material has the potential to control up to four times more energy than typical elastane-based fabrics.

This is the second Adidas apparel collection to feature RHEON. The Techfit Control x RHEON collaboration, launched earlier this year focused on tops and full-length leggings for high-intensity gym workouts and weight training.

The company believes there are almost endless applications and possibilities for the technology including vibration-dampening saddles, responsive sports bras or ballistic vests. “Adidas were very early to show interest in the RHEON material technology,” Huntsman noted. “As an ingredient brand, having partners that share our vision for the potential of RHEON is one of our key factors in deciding who we partner with. The products you see today are just the first step of that journey.” TW

TextileWorldAd-DigitalEditions3

7/28/22

1:05 AM

Page 1

Digital Editions Are Here

website / magazine / e-newsletter

+ New Digital Edition

Add Your Digital Delivery Today Subscribe to Textile World for complete coverage of the U.S. and global textile manufacturing industry — the latest technologies, applications, regulations and trends.

Now you can receive your Textile World magazine anywhere you go.

Print advertisers receive additional reach and linking with free inclusion in Digital Editions.

read / share / engage

TextileWorld.com

Pailung placed

11/15/23

1:48 PM

Page 1