February / March 2015

R E S P O N S I B L E

February / March 2015

be the difference

Culture & conservation •

A Distant Drum Beats at Masovhela Lodge

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Dubai... ancient & modern

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Matemwe Lodge... making a difference

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Responsible Tourism at WTM Africa

w w w. re s p o n s i b l e t rave l l e r. c o. z a

Your Holiday needn’t cost the earth: By choosing a Fair Trade Tourism certified business, you’re guaranteed a holiday experience that positively impacts employees, the community and the environment. So next time you are planning your holiday, look out for our striking label as a sign that the business has been certified by Fair Trade Tourism and is adhering to our strict standard.

You’ll leave not only relaxed and recharged, but feeling fulfilled and rewarded too.

For more information about Fair Trade Tourism; FTT certified businesses & how to become certified, please visit our website www.fairtrade.travel

Comment Welcome to another DIGITAL edition of Responsible Traveller…

This edition is about celebrating culture and conservation!

Tourism is important for any destination and done right can play an important role in providing income to small business and local communities. It can be a force for good, helping to provide employment and alleviating poverty. But it can also be used to enrich just a few… It is up to the consumer to decide, to choose travel that makes a difference, and choosing to support local travel businesses - from accommodation and eating out, to fun activities and shopping. Africa is home to the Big 5, to wild adventures, to cultural tourism and conservation. We revisit Fair Trade certified Mashovhela Lodge in South Africa’s Limpopo Province, home to fabulous Venda art and culture, and Matemwe Lodge in exotic Zanzibar, a tourism enterprise that has chosen to make a difference in the local community.

I had the pleasure of spending some time in Dubai… and yes, there is excess – but scratch the surface a little and you will find a destination with soul, where traditional Emirati culture and traditions can be experienced first-hand. Where, despite the glitz and glamour, you can find hotels and resorts that are committed to environmental best practice.

And as I have said on numerous occasions, the responsibility of being a responsible traveller lies ultimately with the person travelling and the choices they make. It’s about choosing to not waste water, to switch off when you leave the room, to stay, shop, experience and eat local... thereby providing employment and contributing to the local economy. By choosing to have conversations with locals and experiencing the ‘real’ destination, you add value and return home with irreplaceable memories.

Enjoy the read… and be the difference.

tessa

Magazine Information February / March 2015 Editor Tessa Buhrmann Cell: 083 603 9000 tessa@responsibletraveller.co.za Design & Layout Michele Mayer Cell: 082 934 6940 creativelink@mweb.co.za Advertising & editorial enquiries info@responsibletraveller.co.za Digital Subscriptions info@responsibletraveller www.responsibletraveller.co.za

Responsible Traveller Published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC (CK 2008/178482/23) Contact Details P.O. Box 3, Gillitts 3603 KwaZulu-Natal South Africa Tel: +27 31 7674022 Fax: +27 86 542 9615 Publication details Responsible Traveller DIGITAL is published bi-monthly

Cover Image: Collecting thatching grass pic - courtesy of Mashovhela Lodge ©

Disclaimer Responsible Traveller is published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC. The information provided and the opinions expressed in this publication are done so in good faith and while every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the managing editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages that may arise. All rights are reserved and no material from this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publishers.

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Contents Awareness: Comment

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Being a Responsible Traveller 06 Responsible Tourism at WTM Africa

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Destinations:

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Dubai... ancient & modern

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Matemwe - makiing a difference

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Adventures & Activities: A Distant Drum Beat 08

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www.responsibletraveller.co.za 04 responsible traveller

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Contents Making a Difference: Chef David Higgs... more than just a talented chef

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50 News:

Seabird Sanctuary opens in Gansbaai

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Emirati Culture and Heritage acknowledged at prestigious World Travel Awards

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Delheim unearths forest fare...

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Greenpop launches their Zambia Festival of Action 2015

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Burgeoning waste paper buy-back centres flourish in the recycling market

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www.responsibletraveller.co.za responsible traveller 05

Being a

Responsible Traveller

Responsible travel is a way of enjoying the many sights, experiences and memories of the destination you have chosen. It ensures that visitors and local communities alike share the benefits of tourism and travel equally, and it promotes greater understanding of and appreciation for fair and equitable business practice. Responsible travel is about putting back into travel what you get from it, and here are a few considerations that you could make when next you travel.

• Ask to see your tour operator's responsible travel policy.

• Ask to see the environmental policy of the accommodation establishment that you have selected – don’t be fooled by vague and unsubstantiated claims.

• Help the local economy by buying local produce in preference to imported goods.

• Ask your tour operator to establish the extent to which local communities enjoy benefits from your economic spend during your stay at a location.

• If bargaining to buy an item, bear in mind that a small amount to you could be extremely important to the seller – be realistic and fair.

• Realise that often the people in the country you are visiting have different time concepts, values and thought patterns from your own, this does not make them inferior, only different.

• Cultivate the habit of asking questions and discover the pleasure that you can enjoy by seeing a different way of life through others eyes.

• Use public transport, hire a bike or walk where convenient – you'll meet local people and get to know the place far better – always be safe and considerate.

• Use water sparingly – it is precious inmany countries and the local people may not have sufficient clean water – challenge any wasteful practice at your hotel or lodge.

• Switch Something Off – whenever you leave your room, switch unnecessary lights and equipment off and play your part in reducing greenhouse emissions.

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• Don't discard litter when visiting outof-the-way places and attractions, take it with you and dispose of it at your hotel or lodge. Waste disposal is often a major problem at outlying attractions and sites and it leads to litter and unhealthy environments for locals.

• Respect local cultures, traditions and holy places. For example, ask permission before you photograph local people – in some countries it can cause offence.

• Learn more about the cultural experiences that you are exposed to – avoid ‘sound-byte’ tourism and encourage tour operators to provide more insight into the dances, songs and traditionalexperiences that they present to you.

• Do not buy products made from endangered species, hard woods, shells from beach traders, or ancient artefacts (which have probably beenstolen). When visiting gift and curio shops, be aware of the source of the products on sale and if in doubt, don’t buy.

• Read up on the countries you plan to visit – the welcome will be warmer if you take an interest and speak even a few words of the local language.

• When you get home drop your tour operator a note to let them know how you got on.

Essentials: www.heritagesa.co.za www.fairtrade.travel www.trees.co.za www.rhinoafrica.com

RT

On your next holiday, consider the road less travelled..

Being a Responsible Traveller

Travelling can be stressful at most times, but responsible travel choices are a way of ensuring that your travels don’t stress the environment or host communities.

By choosing to be a responsible traveller, you are contributing to the sustainable future of Africa and to the long-term development of your host destination.

Next time you travel, select properties and facilities that have been independently certified on their social, cultural and environmental performance.

GreenLine is South Africa’s leading responsible tourism certification programme for accommodation facilities and our members are independently monitored to ensure that they meet the highest standard of responsible business practice in an effort to ensure that tourism benefits all.

learn more about your

destination, its people and cultures.

respect the dignity of others and ask before taking photo’s

dress appropriately, particularly at religious or cultural sites

dispose of your waste responsibly - recycle where possible

minimise your use of water and electricity

support local tour guides where available

don’t buy goods made from endangered or threatened species

support local entrepreneurs, crafters and curio shops

avoid giving cash donations - rather become involved or give in-kind Take only pictures, leave only footprints!

For more information on how you can be more responsible about your travel choices, visit www.greenline-rt.com today and help us make southern Africa the most responsible destination globally.

The Heritage Environmental Management Company tel: +27 012 667 6658 fax: +27 086 610 7120 e: info@heritagesa.co.za web: www.greenline-rt.com

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All images - Mashovhela Lodge ©

A Distant Drum Beat

F

rom the ledge of the stony Soutpansberg cliff, the black mountain pool below is a place of beauty - but the spot is anything but normal. I am standing above one of Venda’s most sacred Venda sites, the pool where, legend says, the Venda King Thohoiyandu disappeared with his human skin drum.

Humbulani Ramadingani, the Venda guide who has lead me to the pool, sketches the story in hushed tones. According to legend, he says, King Thohoiyandu had only to beat his drum and his opponents would collapse in fright.

“One night when his enemies were approaching King Thohoiyandu left his kraal with his drum and disappeared into the Soutpansberg mountains,” Ramadingani says. “The king was never seen again, but people say you can hear his drum beating in the pool.”

The pool, known as Mashovhela (place where the drum beats), is still used by sangomas for rain making ceremonies. “The Sangomas come here and sing and chant to bring rain,” Ramadingani said. “This is a very important site for the Venda. Not too long ago outsiders were forbidden to visit the pool. If you were found here you were taken before the chief’s council and fined.”

I am visiting the sacred pool during my stay at the Mashovhela Lodge outside of Louis responsible traveller 09

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Trichardt in the Limpopo Province. The Lodge is made up of a set of Venda style bungalows nestled between two cliffs in the Morning Sun Nature Reserve. An indigenous forest of wild fig, baobab and fever trees thrive in the gorge. Kudu, leopard, baboons, hyena and honey badgers, among other creatures, inhabit the surrounding hills. A family of vervet monkeys have chosen the lodge gardens as their playground darting around the lawn, and climbing the trees and roofs of the bungalows.

“When I was a young boy my parents used to boil baboon droppings with herbs and give it to me to drink,” Radingani recalls. “It is a mixture used to teach us children dignity and respect. It was very good actually.”

The reserve, with about 400 different trees and an equal number of bird’s species, including the black eagle and peregrine falcon, has been declared a National Heritage Site because of its enormous biodiversity.

“People accused of witchcraft were thrown from there,” he says. “They landed in this rocky pond over here. This was the site of many deaths, but now it’s a nice picnic spot.”

The lodge is more than a simple luxurious getaway. The staff at Mashovhela are constantly ready to explain and educate their visitors about the colourful Venda culture. A walk with Ramadingani is like a crash course in Venda folklore.

After our visit to the king’s pool, Ramdingani leads me to a misty waterfall that seems the perfect spot for a romantic picnic, but my illusion is soon shattered. Ramadingani surveys the top of the waterfall, before explaining that this was once used as an execution site.

On that macabre note we walked into a cave behind the falls where water trickles from the stone roof above us. Ramdingani holds his mouth to the water and sips furiously. “Venda people drink from these rocks because it to brings them good luck,” he says. “Tomorrow is Lotto.”

‘The reserve, has about 400 different trees and an equal number of bird species, including the black eagle and peregrine falcon...’

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Mashovela Lodge has all the usual luxuries, such as swimming pool and swanky accommodation, but there is a touch of Venda found in just about everything, from the design of the hutted bungalows to the five star meals. The lodge was built on a Venda settlement abandoned during a drought in the 1970s. The man responsible for it is Dr Hans Hahn, a specialist in renewable energy and scientific engineering.

“The few Venda families who had eked out a precarious existence in the mountains were abandoning their huts and leaving their workedout patches of land to the encroaching sickle bush,” Hahn recalls. “In spite of this, the farm had retained its inherent beauty. I went to the owner right away and signed the deed of sale.”

Hahn and his family began developing the land, bush slashers moved in first with picks and shovels to open a road. Hiking trails were cut out of paths already well tread by cattle and game. Lawns were planted with indigenous grass species. A project was to remove a forest of exotic eucalyptus and wattle trees that had invaded the valley. The owner of a local portable sawmill was hired to saw up the logs into planks of various sizes.

“This beautifully honed and extremely hard wood was eventually used by our labour force to construct much of the woodwork now seen at Mashovhela, including most of its furniture,” Hahn says.

A decision was made not to connect the lodge to the Eskom power grid, but to use solar energy, supplementing this with eucalyptus wood-fired boilers he designed.

“Our policy of eradicating invasive trees such as the eucalyptus and black wattle is providing us with an ongoing supply of biomass and firewood,” he says.

The Hahns wanted the lodge to be a proud reflection of the Venda culture. Hahn’s daughter Ingrid, an artist and jewellery designer, moved into a rondavel with her two sons and employed a team of Venda builders, bricklayers and carpenters to build the new lodge. The rondavels, built in the Venda style with patio walls to provide privacy, reflect the picturesque local architecture.

At the time, one of Johannesburg’s top gourmet chef’s, Jackie Levell, was placed in charge of the lodge’s restaurant. She gave the cuisine as strong Venda connection, and was constantly looking out for local herbs and meal ideas.

Jackie also shared her know how by giving practical training to cooking school graduates.

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‘There is a touch of Venda found in just about everything, from the design of the hutted bungalows to the five star meals ..’

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As part of their Fair Trade commitment, Mashovhela is committed to involving the community as much as possible. A vegetable garden was established at nearby Khavhambe to help the village community. The vegetables are bought by the lodge and used in the restaurant.

A choir and drum orchestra was started, so that ‘the place would reverberate with music and dance’.

‘There is a noise in the distance.

Someone, somewhere is beating a drum ...’

Ramadingani says about 80 percent of the village’s working adults are employed by Mashovhela Lodge and a neighbouring resort.

One of his tasks it to train new staff as guides and teach them customer relations.

“The lodge has lifted the community,” he says.

“If you visit the village during the day it’s very quiet and that is a good thing because it means people are at work.”

After a long day of hiking in the hills, my legs aching, my stomach replete on Venda style cuisine, I am free to collapse on my soft kingsize bed and enjoy the hot water bottle and chocolate placed on my pillow. I close my eyes to sleep. I turn on my side and place the pillow on my head. There is a noise in the distance.

Someone, somewhere is beating a drum…

• Stuart Graham

www.morningsun.co.za

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What’s news...

Seabird Sanctuary opens in Gansbaai The African Penguin and Seabird Sanctuary (APSS) was opened in Gansbaai on the 26th February 2015, marking a monumental milestone for the conservation of the African penguin and other marine birds in the Overstrand region of the Western Cape.

Minister of Tourism Derek Hanekom, who spoke at the event and officially opened the centre, said that projects of this nature are about the common good – good for environment, good for the community and good for the country as a whole.

A custom designed, world-class, marine bird rehabilitation centre, the APSS will provide temporary rehabilitative care to diseased, displaced, injured, oiled and abandoned marine birds, with a special focus on the endangered African penguin. Marine bird rescue, rehabilitation and release form part of the management plan to conserve and maintain African penguins and other marine bird populations along the South African coastline.

“The support we received from our partners and affiliates, as well as the donations of materials from various corporates to complete the APSS have been a big vote of confidence in our work through the Dyer Island Conservation Trust,” said Wilfred Chivell, founder of DICT and APSS. “We are grateful to have sponsors and partners who recognise the importance of this facility in the conservation of our marine birds. We are the voice of these species that cannot speak for themselves.”

Featuring a unique rehabilitation area with a specialised floor, laboratory and clinic, the APSS rehabilitation techniques will be honed to afford birds individual treatment with minimum stress.

This maximises their rehabilitation and affords them the best chance of survival when released back into the wild.

Through continued research, education and awareness programmes, the APSS, a project driven by the Dyer Island Conservation Trust (DICT) in conjunction with tourism partners Marine Dynamics and Dyer Island Cruises, aims to mitigate the human impact on marine bird colonies.

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Among the guests attending the launch were the Overstrand Mayor, Nicolette Botha-Guthrie, and representatives from corporate sponsors Volkswagen South Africa and Grindrod Bank.

“The partnership with DICT has been one of our most rewarding sustainability projects we have been involved with in South Africa. The DICT shares the same ethos and values as we do at Volkswagen Group South Africa, which are excellence, respect and working as one team.

Therefore, when we were approached to extend our partnership to the penguin sanctuary, it was the easiest sponsorship decision we

What’s news... have ever made. Volkswagen prides itself as a company with meaning and impact. The impact that the DICT is making with its work with Marine Big 5 – African Penguin, Great White Shark, seals, dolphins and whales will have meaningful impact for generations to come.

Our Think.Blue philosophy of ‘small changes can make a big difference ‘complements the African Penguin and Seabird Sanctuary slogan of ‘every bird counts’. We trust that our sponsorship of the APSS will make a difference in ensuring that every bird counts,” Petra Hoffmann, Director: Sales and Marketing at Volkswagen Group South Africa.

Grindrod Bank have recently partnered up with Wildlands Conservation Trust to establish The Blue Fund, an initiative solely dedicated to fund coastal conservation projects. The APSS represents the first of such projects in the Western Cape.

Minister of Tourism, Derek Hanekom, and Overstrand Mayor Nicolette Botha-Guthrie cut the ribbon

“We are proud to invest in our ecological heritage in partnership with organisations that are actively involved in the conservation of South Africa’s rich natural environment,” said Mike Hankinson, Grindrod Ltd Chairman. “As Grindrod has its roots in the maritime industry, we are also keenly aware of the importance of conserving and protecting our marine resources and are therefore especially excited about our involvement with the Dyer Island Conservation Trust.” •

www.africanpenguin.org Wilfred Chivell with the Blue Fund representatives...

Mr.Stuart, Dr.Venter and Mr. Kankinson

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Image ourtesy of Cape Town Tourism ©

W

orld Travel Market (WTM) Africa has already exceeded expectations for 2015 through a phenomenal growth in exhibitor attendance, attributed to the overwhelming response and interest in Africa’s fastest growing inbound and outbound trade show, the only trade show of its kind on the African continent. WTM Africa is quickly becoming the leading B2B exhibition for the travel industry in South Africa and Africa alike.

“WTM Africa was a great success last year. I think our industry were mainly watching from the 18 responsible traveller

side-lines on how it would perform, and this year companies who are serious about meeting the right people, conducting productive meetings and getting a return on their investment, do not want to miss out. In addition, we are attracting not only buyers looking for African product alone. We are providing a holistic travel and tourism show that benefits all travel professionals from a wide variation of focus and this is exciting. One venue, 3 days and great value for money! Why wouldn’t you be there?” said CAROL WEAVING, MD of Thebe Reed Exhibitions.

In collaboration with the City of Cape Town, the event that puts the world’s spotlight on Africa and promotes Africa to the world, will be taking place at the Cape Town International

Responsible Tourism at WTMÂŽ Africa 2015

Convention Centre (CTICC) from 15 – 17 April 2015. Based on the magnitude of the 2015 show, the extended 3 day event programme will allow visitors and international buyers more time and a substantially bigger pool of exhibitors to form integral relationships with.

The strategic platforms available such as the tactical networking sessions specifically designed to cater for travel professionals, the WTM Buyers Club, the Hosted Buyers Programme as well as the world-renowned WTM Africa exhibition ensures key quality relationship building. This expansion will allow for further economic growth in both local and international markets and is pivotal in taking the travel industry to the next level.

REGISTER NOW! responsible traveller 19

Responsible Tourism in Destinations Conference The Responsible Tourism In Destinations Conference (RTD 11) will be running alongside WTM® Africa 2015. A core theme and focus for this year’s show is responsible tourism and how the travel industry can help improve the impact their sectors have on social development and improvement within their country, on their continent and globally. The conference presents an opportunity to reflect on what has been achieved in Cape Town, South Africa and elsewhere around the world, to document good practices applied by different producer groups, and set the agenda for change for the next 10 years.

RTD 11: PROGRAMME Conference Co-Chairs PROF HAROLD GOODWIN • International Centre for Responsible Tourism (ICRT), UK HEIDI VAN DER WATT • International Centre for Responsible Tourism (ICRT), SA ANTON GROENEWALD • Executive Director: Tourism, Events & Economic Development, City of Cape Town, SA

Tuesday 14th April 2015 08:00 – 09:00

Registration

09:00 – 10:00

Welcome and Opening

10:00 – 10:30

Keynote Speaker 1 PROF HAROLD GOODWIN • Manchester Metropolitan University and ICRT, UK

10:30 – 11:00 Keynote Speaker 2 TIM WILLIAMSON • Director, responsibletravel.com, UK 11:00 – 11:30 Coffee 11:30 – 13:00 Panel 1 • Tourism by design

Four presentations followed by panel discussion and questions from the floor SAMANTHA ANNANDALE • General Manager, Hotel Verde, Cape Town, SA

LEE HENDOR RUITERS • Snr. Project Manager, National Cleaner Production Centre, SA GLENN PHILLIPS • Managing Executive: Tourism & Marketing, SANParks, SA JUSTIN HAWES • CEO, Scan Display, SA 13:00 - 14:00

Networking Lunch

14:00 – 14:30 Keynote Speaker 3 MATTHIAS LEISINGER • Vice President of Corporate Social Responsibility, KUONI, Switzerland 14:30 – 15:30 Panel 2 • Responsible tourism in marketing

Four presentations followed by panel discussion and questions from the floor SABINE LEHMAN • CEO, Table Mountain Aerial Cableway Company, Cape Town, SA TIM WILLIAMSON • Director, responsibletravel.com, UK AFZAAL MAUTHOR • CEO, Inspired Escapes, UK DAWN ROBERTSON • CEO, Gauteng Tourism Authority, SA 15:30 – 16:00 Coffee 16:00 – 16:30 Keynote 4 ADAMA BAH • Association of Small Scale Enterprises in Tourism, The Gambia 16:30 – 17:30 Panel 3 • Inclusive tourism

Four presentations followed by panel discussion and questions from the floor MANISHA PANDE • Director & General Manager, Villageways, India

HEIDI VAN DER WATT • Director,ICRT SA PAUL MEDIEMA • Director,Calabash Tours, SA

17:30 Close 20 responsible traveller

Image ourtesy of Cape Town Tourism ©

Wednesday 15th April 2015 09:00 – 09:30 Review of the first day – the key questions and issues emerging 9:30 – 10:15 A decade of Responsible Tourism in Cape Town NOMBULELO MKEFA • City of Cape Town 10:15 – 10:30 Briefing: A user’s guide to realising responsible tourism in destinations HAROLD GOODWIN • Manchester Metropolitan University and ICRT, UK ANTON GROENEWALD • Executive Director: Tourism, Events and EconomicDevelopment,

City of Cape Town, SA 10:30 – 13:00 Taking Responsibility

Producer group working session 1 • using tourism to make African destinations

better places to live in 13:00 – 14:00 Networking lunch 14:00 – 15:30 Taking Responsibility

Producer group working session 2 • solutions to overcoming challenges 15:30 – 16:00 Coffee 16:00 – 17:00 Working group feedback Accommodation

Transport and tour operators

Attractions and activities

Destination and sector organisations 17:00 – 18:00 Closing Statements 18:00

Conference closes

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WTM® Africa Responsible Tourism Programme The WTM® Africa Responsible Tourism Programme, brought together by Professor Harold Goodwin with a panel of local and international speakers, will discuss why Responsible Tourism matters and why it makes business sense. The Responsible Tourism Programme will also include a session which focuses on how resource efficiency cuts costs and improves the bottom line, as well as being good for the environment. The panellists will share their experience of reducing the carbon and water intensity of their businesses and reflect on the financial and environmental benefits.

Panel 1: Thursday 16 April 2015

12:30 - 13:15 Why Responsible Tourism Matters Responsible Tourism has been at the heart of South Africa’s tourism policy since 1996 and it has contributed significantly to the growth or Responsible Tourism internationally following the Cape Town Conference on Responsible Tourism in Destinations. World Travel Market uses this definition for its programme now across four shows. Your panel, which includes two international Responsible Tourism award winners will talk about why Responsible Tourism matters and about why it makes business sense.

Chair: HAROLD GOODWIN • WTM

Responsible Tourism Advisor Panelists:

LEAN TEREBLANCHE • Grootbos Foundation

JULIE CHEETHAM • Grootbos

PAUL MIEDEMA • Calabash Tours

LARA MOSTERT • SAASA

Panel 2: Friday 17 April 2015

12:30 - 13:15 Resource Efficiency: Good for the Environment and the Bottom Line Resource efficiency cuts costs and improves the bottom line, as well as being good for the environment. The panellists will share their experience of reducing the carbon and water intensity of their businesses and at the financial and environmental benefits of doing so.

Chair: HAROLD GOODWIN • WTM

Responsible Tourism Advisor Panelists:

COLIN DEVENISH • V&A Waterfront

ANDRE HARMS • Hotel Verde

LEE-HENDOR RUITERS • National

Cleaner Production Centre, SA

CHRIS GODENIR • Peninsula Hotel

Panel 3: Friday 17th April 2015

14:30-15:15 The Commercial Advantage: Authenticity and the Tourism Experience.

In many source markets there is an increasing premium being placed by consumers on EFM, experience for money. The quality of the tourism experience is central to maintaining the perceived value of a tour, attraction, destination, restaurant or accommodation. The experience provides an opportunity to gain a non-price competitive advantage in an increasingly competitive market place.

Chair: HEIDI VAN DER WATT • WTM Responsible

Tourism Advisor Panelists:

ADAMA BAH • Association of Small Scale

Enterprises in Tourism, The Gambia

IAN HARRIS • Coffeebeans Routes, Cape Town

HAROLD GOODWIN • WTM Responsible

Tourism Advisor

ENVER DUMINY • Cape Town Tourism *Programme subject to change

Best practice for RTD 11 impactChoice is ensuring the 11th International Conference on Responsible Tourism in Destinations conference will be Energy Neutral, by offsetting all carbon emissions related to energy consumption at the conference. Each conference participant will receive a personalized certificate showing how much carbon was mitigated on their behalf and which sequestration project benefited from this contribution. In addition to this impactChoice will be calculating the energy consumption for WTM Africa. impactChoice is an innovative provider of sustainability solutions that focus on preserving our environment while creating tangible business value. With presence in Africa, Europe, Australasia, the USA and Indian Ocean Islands, impactChoice allows hospitality providers and event organisers to actively engage customers in efforts to minimize their environmental impact. impactChoice’s Certified Carbon Mitigation Solutions also support the socio-economic upliftment of impoverished communities participating in carbon sequestration projects. www.impactchoice.com 22 responsible traveller

Image ourtesy of Grootbos Private Nature reaserve©

A flower safari at Grootbos Private Nature Reserve

African Responsible Tourism Awards The heroes of responsible tourism in Africa will be honoured at the 2015 African Responsible Tourism Awards ceremony. This inaugural event forms part of World Travel Market Africa, and the prestigious World Responsible Tourism Awards.

These awards aim to celebrate the efforts made by individuals, organisations and destinations on the continent, and to inspire change in the African tourism industry.

The categories for the 2015 awards include; best for poverty reduction, best for beach tourism, best destination for responsible tourism, best for engaging people & culture, best for wildlife conservation and best blog for responsible tourism.

“The World Responsible Tourism Awards at WTM have been a great success at World Travel Market over the past 12 years. I’m delighted that WTM Africa will be hosting The African Responsible Tourism Awards. Tourism is central to the continent’s economy, which makes it all the more vital that the African travel and tourism industry acts responsibly to preserve and protect its unrivalled natural resources. WTM Africa is ideal to highlight the best responsible practices in the African travel industry,” says WTM Africa’s Commercial Director, SUGEN PILLAY. Wesgro - the tourism, trade and investment promotion agency for the Western Cape - is the main sponsor for the 2015 African Responsible Tourism Awards. According to JUDY LAIN, Chief Marketing Officer of Wesgro “Responsible Tourism is the guiding principle and priority for Wesgro and we are proud to be the sponsor

of the inaugural African Responsible Tourism Awards at WTM Africa. These awards will go a long way towards creating awareness of the importance of sustainability along with showcasing and rewarding those who are driving and excelling at it.”

JUSTIN FRANCIS, Managing Director of Responsible Travel which founded and organises the annual World Responsible Tourism Awards says “Africa has always been well represented in the World Responsible Tourism Awards at WTM and I am thrilled that now it has its own awards scheme, dedicated to the African market. “

“Since founding the Awards 11 years ago, and running them over this time we know what a difference they can make in driving change within the tourism industry and in raising awareness of responsible tourism among businesses and consumers. We look forward to supporting the African Responsible Tourism Awards at WTM Africa, and are proud to welcome them to the Awards family.”

The inaugural African Responsible Tourism Awards have already generated significant participation across Africa, with the judging process already well underway. HEIDI VAN DER WATT of the ICRT South Africa comments “Nominations for the African Responsible Tourism Awards far outstripped our expectations. A full 112 nominations from 16 countries, truly covering Africa from north-south and east-west were received. Thanks you to our partners on the continent that helped us to get the word out and the nominations streaming in.” responsible traveller 23

As part of the World Responsible Tourism Awards family, the judging process for the African Responsible Tourism Awards is chaired by Harold Goodwin, Professor of Responsible Tourism at Manchester Metropolitan University, Director of the International Centre for Responsible Tourism and Chair of the main World Responsible Tourism Awards judging panel since its inception.

As part of the World Responsible Tourism Awards family, the judging process for the African Responsible Tourism Awards is chaired

by HAROLD GOODWIN, Professor of Responsible Tourism at Manchester Metropolitan University, Director of the International Centre for Responsible Tourism and Chair of the main World Responsible Tourism Awards judging panel since its inception.

African Responsible Tourism Awards 2015 longlist announced The official longlist for the inaugural African Responsible Tourism Awards 2015 has been released. The aim of this first-for-Africa award is to recognise inspiring African organisations that work to ensure tourism environments and benefit destinations and local people.

Sponsored by Wesgro and organised by the International Centre for Responsible Tourism – South Africa, the awards are part of a family of regional Responsible Tourism Awards which culminate each year with the World Responsible Tourism Awards which are presented at WTM in London on World Responsible Tourism Day. The longlist names over 50 tourism organisations, initiatives, businesses and projects across seven categories. These categories include wildlife conservation, poverty reduction, resource management and best blog.

Nuarro Lodge - Baixo do Pinda

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The longlisted nominees have been selected from over 120 submissions from all corners of Africa – covering the continent north to south and east to west. The list includes nominees from Morocco, the Gambia, Mozambique, Kenya, Tanzania, Botswana, South Africa and many more.

“At this stage, the award’s judges are working through information submitted by nominees.

The quality of the nominations is superb – we’ve seen the information put forward and are excited about the possibilities,” said HEIDI VAN DER WATT, founder of the awards and director of the ICRT South Africa.

A shortlist, to be announced on 13 April, will be chosen from the longlist by a judging panel made up of industry experts.

The award winners will be announced at the 2015 African Responsible Tourism Awards on Thursday 16 April 2015 at the Cape Town International Convention Centre, Cape Town.

The awards are part of the responsible tourism programme at WTM Africa, which kicks off with the 11th International Responsible Tourism in Destinations conference on 14 and 15 April, and will have 18 speakers from Europe, India and Africa.

PROF HAROLD GOODWIN, chair of the judging panel, added, “The African Responsible Tourism Awards matter because they recognise those who have gone the extra mile to create great products and experiences which make better tourism; better for the local community, better for their natural and cultural environment, and better services and experiences for the holidaymakers and guests. There are many inspirational and credible nominees on the longlist – we hope that others will be inspired and motivated to do more themselves.”

The award categories and the longlisted businesses are:

Best for Poverty Reduction – supported by Marine Dynamics

Best Blog – supported by Cape Town Tourism

•

• • •

•

Greenloons My Slow Journey The Good Holiday

• • • • • • • • •

Best for Beach Tourism – supported by Shark Spotters and Bulksms.com • • • • •

ATKV-Hartenbos Beach Resort Cabana Beach Resort Chumbe Island Coral Park GVI Seychelles Nuarro Lodge

Best Destination for Responsible Tourism - supported by the V&A Waterfront • • •

Best for Resource Management – supported by the National Cleaner Production Centre Of South Africa

Bigodi Wetlands Sanctuary (KAFRED) City of Cape Town Gansbaai

Best for engaging people and culture – supported by Gauteng Tourism Authority !Khwa ttu San Culture and Education Centre Abang Africa Travel African Ivory Route : Blouberg Camp City Sightseeing Johannesburg & Soweto Coffeebeans Routes Dorobo Tours & Safaris Footsteps Eco Lodge Kasbah Du Toubkal - Discover Ltd Nkwichi Lodge Park Inn by Radisson Cape Town Newlands Run Cape Town – Sightseeing on the Run TFPD Foundation - Baleni Camp Turtle Bay Beach Club Uthando South Africa

Image ourtesy of Huarro Lodge ©

• • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Grootbos Private Nature Reserve in partnership with the Grootbos Foundation Kibale Association for Rural and Environmental Development (KAFRED) Karen Blixen Camp, Masai Mara Lake Nakuru Lodge Malealea Lodge Mdumbi Backpackers Nkasa Lupala Tented Lodge Nkuringo Walking Safaris and Gorilla Camp Stormsriver Adventures Transfrontier Parks Destinations (TFPD) Wilderness Safaris - Children in the Wilderness (CITW)

• • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Bikes ‘n Wines Chobe Game Lodge Green Mamba Garden Hotel Verde Machaba Camp Magalies Park Resort Ocean View House The Peninsula All-Suite Hotel Sandele Eco-Retreat and Learning Centre Table Mountain Aerial Cableway Company Tzaneen Country Lodge Umlani Bushcamp Vineyard Hotel Wilderness Safaris – Hoanib Skeleton Coast

Best for Wildlife Conservation – supported by South Africa National Parks • • • • • • • •

African Conservation Experience All Out Africa andBeyond & Great Plains Conservation Rhinos Without Borders Bartholomeus Klip Farmhouse Global Vision International’s South African Wildlife Conservation Project Marine Dynamics SAASA Tenikwa Wildlife Awareness and Rehabilitation Centre

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Dubai...

ancient & modern

Dhows and abras on the Creek

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Images - Tessa Buhrmann Š

I

use the term ancient rather loosely, as Dubai was only founded around the 1800s – it was once however a region inhabited by Bedouins who made a living fishing, searching for pearls and herding sheep and goats. Where ancient dhows transported livestock and merchandise across the creek, where camels were used as transport and where open markets were the shopping malls of the day. But it wasn’t long before Dubai became an important trading port and tax free haven… which is certainly mirrored in the steel-and-glass skyscrapers of today’s modern and ‘economically free’ Dubai.

The transition wasn’t plain sailing though. The region had to deal with a declining pearl industry, due in part to the emergence of artificial pearls, which saw many of its then inhabitants choosing to migrate to other parts of the Arab world. In 1966 ‘black gold’ was discovered, which fueled rapid growth in the region, only to take a slump in the late’ 70s when the price of oil dropped to an all time low. But with some astute out-the-box thinking and incredibly creative leadership, Dubai began to re-invent itself… to become the tourist destination that it is today.

Today’s Dubai is called many things… a ‘playground for the rich’, the ‘Manhattan of the Middle East’ and the ‘city of superlatives’ – and yes, it is these, and more, way more. It can be just about the glamorous lifestyle, the glorious shopping and the biggest and best of everything.

But choose to really experience Dubai and you’ll see her at her very best.

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A great way to start is a visit to the Sheikh Mohammed Centre For Cultural Understanding (SMCCU) located in the historic Al Fahidi District in Bur Dubai. An easy walk from the Al Fahidi Metro Station and down Al Mankhool Road – the variety of shops and businesses giving a glimpse into everyday life in this old part of town. The wind towers, stone coloured buildings and minarets announce your arrival.

The SMCCU is the brain child of His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum.

His vision is to educate visitors in the traditions and customs of the UAE - with ‘no-holds-barred’ question sessions (in keeping with its “Open doors. Open minds.” motto), traditional meals and heritage tours.

After a fascinating tour through the twisting streets and past coral clad mansions - many of them now restored and home to quirky coffee shops, art galleries and museums – we sat down

‘The wind towers, stone coloured buildings and minarets announce your arrival...’ responsible traveller 29

The quirky, arty XVA Cafe

to enjoy a traditional Emirati brunch and the much anticipated Q&A session. The open discussion included the anticipated questions about religion and traditional attire to more sensitive questions around women’s rights and men having more than one wife - all answered with humour and openness.

With typical Emirati hospitality, our brunch started with Arabic coffee spiced with cardamom and saffron, followed by a selection of authentic Emirati dishes including Balaleet (sweetened vermicelli), Machboos (chicken and rice, like a biryani), Laham Nashif (chicken in a vegetable sauce), Khamir (delicious flat bread) and my favourite Ligamat (yummy little ‘donuts’) smothered in ‘dibbs’ (date syrup). All this washed down with a refreshing cup of tea.

Learning about traditional Emirati attire

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These narrow twisting streets certainly deserve a second more leisurely visit – be sure to pop into the Coffee Museum to learn about the history of ‘the bean’, see the ancient ‘tools of the trade’ and enjoy a traditional Arabic, Turkish or Ethiopian coffee; or enjoy a relaxing lunch at the XVA Boutique Hotel after browsing their thought provoking contemporary art.

Other places of interest include the inspirational Mawaheb Art Studio for adults with special needs, the Majlis Gallery, the Philately House, Heritage House, Coins Museum as well as the Dubai Museum - housed in the Al Fahidi Fort, Dubai’s oldest building.

Frankencense at the Spice Souk

Dubai offers a number of shopping options, from glitzy shopping malls to the traditional souks, both offering merchandise from around the world to be carefully considered (or haggled over) and bought. The Souks however are wonderfully colourful, a tad noisy and extremely fascinating. The Textile Souk, on the Bur Dubai side of the Creek, consists of a multitude of small shops selling everything from beautiful fabrics to clothes, hand crafted shoes and souvenirs – there are fabulous pashminas in every colour, texture and fabric you can imagine!

Across the Creek in Deira is the world famous Gold Souk, where the narrow streets and lanes are lined with shops whose glass fronted windows are crammed with gold - from delicate necklaces to large ceremonial pieces and absolutely everything in between. The nearby Spice Souk offers a completely different, more traditional type of experience, where you can imagine the colourful selection of spices with their wonderfully heady aroma having arrived in hessian sacks on a heavily laden dhow… Should you prefer a slightly more sanitary option for buying spices, many of the supermarkets offer much the same variety, but minus the wonderfully sensory experience.

The Dubai Creek, with its ancient dhows and nifty water taxis (the abra), offers a glimpse into what Dubai was like decades ago. The dhows are no less important now than they were in their

Gold at the Gold Souk

Enjoy a fresh coconut drink alongside the Creek responsible traveller 31

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‘The Dubai Creek with its ancient dhows and nifty water taxis offers a glimpse of what Dubai was like decades ago...’

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maritime trade heyday, when gold, spices and other merchandise was traded across the Gulf and Indian Ocean. Now cargo arriving in Dubai gets unpacked, sorted and exported into the region.

It’s quite intriguing seeing refrigerators, beds and other household goods lining the street alongside the Creek waiting to be loaded. The abra offers a wonderfully inexpensive way to cross the Creek and is the way the locals do it, just realise that during ‘rush hour’ you may have to wait a while.

Enjoy a fresh coconut drink, watermelon smoothie or chicken shawarma along the quayside… or even a puff or two of the shisha pipe.

Downtown Dubai is the modern version of old Dubai, and this is where many of the superlatives come in to play! The World’s highest building – the amazing Burj Khalifa; world’s biggest shopping mall – the incredible Dubai Mall and even the world’s largest choreographed dancing fountain – the breathtaking Dubai Fountain… This is where many of the locals, expats and visitors come to shop, to dine and to be entertained. Even the kids get to be entertained… and educated at the Dubai Mall’s amazing Kidzania, a ‘town’ where no adults are allowed and the kids get to do ‘life’, spending, working, earning and best of all learning - there’s even a recycling van in their town. It looked such fun - I so wanted to be a kid again!

Beautiful Dubai Fountain at night

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‘Downtown Dubai is the modern version of old Dubai, and this is where many of the superlatives come in to play...’

Great Plains Conservation - Selinda Camp

The Burj Khalifa, as seen from The Address Downtown gardens responsible traveller 35

‘We could’t have found a more authentic ride than this to experience the desert and spot the wildlife found within the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve...’

Enjoying the desert sunset, sparkling date juice and falconry disply

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Image - Platinum Heritag©

No visit to Dubai would be complete without spending some time in the desert. We had the privilege of experiencing the desert with Platinum Heritage, a safari company committed to responsible tourism and operating with an ethos of conservation, environmental awareness and community upliftment. This desert safari was unlike most others… no convoys of vehicles, no dune bashing and no belly dancing. What you get with Platinum Heritage is authentic, staying true to Emirati culture - even down to the mode of transportation!

After arriving in the desert we were escorted to our vehicle… a beautifully restored 1950s, museum quality vintage Land Rover. The Land Rover is

very much a part of the history of the UAE dating back to the late ‘50s when they were brought over

by British troops. On their departure in the early ‘70s the Land Rovers were left behind and many became the first vehicle local Emirati’s had access to, often becoming community vehicles.

We couldn’t have found a more authentic ride than this to experience the desert and spot the wildlife found within the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve. We got to see a herd of Arabian Oryx, snatched back from probable extinction by valiant conservation efforts, as well as the elusive Arabian gazelle. Hamdy, our guide, pointed out the Sodom’s Apple (valued for its medicinal value by the Bedouin), Tamarisk responsible traveller 37

and Ghaf trees and explained the detrimental effect that dune bashing has on the creatures and critters that reside just beneath the desert sand.

I was glad platinum Heritage was committed to only using designated routes as determined by conservationists.

The Bedouin camp, which was gently lit with traditional lamps, treads lightly in this beautiful desert… by being solar powered (only using a generator as a back-up); using gravitational force in preference to pumps for its water; by sorting garbage on site – food waste gets composted for use as a mulch, and by purchasing for the long term, avoiding unnecessary wastage. Much of the produce is sourced locally, which makes sense seeing as we were about to enjoy traditional Emirati cuisine, freshly prepared in an age old manner.

We watched the wafer thin Raqaq (bread) being made, so delicious we went back for more; the yummy Shorbat Adas (lentil soup) was ladled out of a heavy cast iron pot and the incredibly tender Ouzi (whole roasted lamb) was retrieved from its charcoal pit where it had been cooking for 24 hours! We dined in wonderful desert style, were entertained with traditional music and dance, gazed up at the stars… and I even got to ride a camel.

‘The Bedouin camp, which was gently lit with traditional lamps, treads lightly in this beautiful desert...’

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Cooking over the fire

Delicious lentil soup

Bedouin style refrigeration

Images - Platinum HeritagŠ

The welcoming entrance to the Bedouin camp

&Beyond Ngala Tented Camp responsible traveller 39

Image - SeawingsŠ

Seaplane taking off on the Creek

Spectacular view of the Burj Khalifa and Downtown Dubai

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Another wonderfully historic experience is to land on the Dubai Creek by seaplane… ok, I’m probably stretching things a little as where we landed was probably not the original ‘landing strip’. Aviation in Dubai began in 1937 when the first seaplanes operating between Britain and Pakistan landed on the Dubai Creek, followed by a route from Durban to Sydney via the Gulf. This unfortunately ceased with the onset of WWII. My SEAWINGS seaplane flight was of much shorter duration than these early journeys, but definitely no less thrilling.

With safety briefings and security checks dealt with – yes, the same aviation regulations apply - it was time to board. We cruised slowly across the water until it we were a safe distance from land, then Jeff our Canadian Captain throttled up… take off was absolutely exhilarating.

The views were spectacular, and offered a completely different perspective of Dubai and a great way to orientate you in a landscape with few topographical landmarks. Manmade landmarks however are aplenty! The Palm Jumeirah and iconic Burj Al Arab on the left, the spectacular Burj Khalifa on the right… I was on top of the World! The experience was surreal, I loved every moment of it but far too soon we were preparing for landing alongside the Dubai Creek Golf Club.

‘The views were spectacular, and offered a completely different perspective of Dubai...’

Whilst Seawings has a number of tour options to choose from, the most popular is the Dubai Creek Silver tour. The aerial views of Old Dubai easily take you back to a time when ancient dhows chugged up- and downstream transporting their wares. To when abras carried both passengers and livestock across the Creek, the women discreetly covered, wandering through the narrow lanes in search of that perfect bolt of fabric, or special spice for the evening meal… while their men sat together deliberating the business of the day.

Besides the unforgettable experience, the great thing about seaplanes is that they are more environmentally friendly than most other aircraft and unlike other motorised craft emit no oil discharge into the water. They are also less noisy and cause no disturbance to marine life.

Foodies will love Dubai for the incredible variety that it offers – we enjoyed a wonderful buffet lunch at the Armani Hotel Dubai’s Mediterraneo Restaurant and Japanese fusion and fabulous views of the Dubai Fountain at The Address Downtown Dubai’s Zeta Restaurant. Our senses were challenged whilst ‘Dining in the Dark’ at the Fairmont Dubai’s Noire Restaurant and the Dubai Polo And Equestrian Club delivered a feast fit for a king at their Friday al fresco buffet brunch. responsible traveller 41

But to experience cuisine as the locals do, there is on Rigga Road and stocking up on goodies to take nothing better that a walking (and eating) tour of home at Sadaf Iranian Sweets and Spices – this is Dubai’s old district with Arva Ahmed from Frying definitely ‘shopping local’.

Pan Adventures.

One of the highlights was an Emirati feast at Arva, a long-time resident of old Dubai and Al Tawasol, near the Clock Tower, as was our the perfect guide, led us through the historic Iranian meal at Abshar Restaurant in Maktoum streets, her passion and knowledge inspiring Street. By this time my eating capacity was even the non-foodie’s among us to great culinary beyond the suggested 80 percent that Arva had aspirations. We visited authentic eateries, such as recommended – 20 percent per stop - but I still Qwaider Al Nabulsi in Murraqqabat Street, where managed the freshly baked Sangak (stone bread we feasted on a wide variety of culinary delights that we watched being prepared in an oven full from Falafel mahshi and hummus with tatbeela (a of little pebbles) served with local cheese and tulsi delicious coriander, parsley, capsicum and lemon (rayhaan leaves) and the Iranian black tea. The rest sauce) to a delicious Palestinian chicken pie called would have to wait for my next visit to Dubai, but Musakhan. in the meantime I will have to up my skills in the We interacted with local vendors and chefs – kitchen, or search for a Middle Eastern restaurant enjoying Arabic coffee and small delicate pieces of close to home!

Baklava with pistachio’s and yummy Ma’amoul (a spiced date cookie) at Arva’s favourite sweet shop; To make the most of your visit to Dubai, I suggest smiling in delight as we watched an Egyptian you find some time to ‘travel like a local’ and feteer being tossed in the air (like making pizza) experience the history, culture and traditions before being covered in basturma (beef pastrami), of what ultimately has made the glitzy and veggies and cheese and spicy shatta sauce; tasting glamorous new Dubai what she is today.

Syrian pistachio Boozah ice cream at Asail Al Sham • Tessa Buhrmann

Image - Glen Pearson / Frying Pan Adventures©

Sangak (stone bread) being prepared in an oven full of pebbles

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Image - Glen Pearson / Frying Pan Adventures©

The passionate Arva, in her favourite sweet shop

‘Foodies will love Dubai for the incredible variety that is offers, but to expereince cuisine as the locals do there is nothing better than a walking & eating tour of old Dubai...’

Hummus, drizzed with olive oil

Unveiling the Kunafa

Machboos at the Emirati feast

Sangak served with local cheese, walnuts & tulsi responsible traveller 43

Getting there:

Dubai culture:

Emirates Airline flies to over 140 destinations Although Dubai is a cosmopolitan city, her culture is rooted in Islamic tradition - the UAE however is worldwide – we flew direct from Durban. welcoming to foreigners and fairly tolerant. The dress code is liberal and alcohol is served in hotels.

That said courtesy and respect for the people and Getting around: their culture should always be considered.

The easiest way to get around is by Metro – purchase a ticket on arrival and then top up as It is a good idea for visitors (especially women) required (the ticket is also valid on the tram). And not to wear very short, tight or revealing clothing, when venturing further afield, or to areas not especially when in shopping malls, government accessible by Metro, take the bus or a taxi (the offices or religious sites – I found it useful to beige ones are cheaper, as we quickly discovered!) always have a pashmina with me so as to cover my shoulders. Shorts, bikinis etc. are acceptable when on the beach or at a resort. UAE nationals usually wear their traditional dress - for men this Where to stay: is the khandura (also known as a dishdahsa) and There are a variety of options, from apartments a headdress known as a gutra. In public women to guest houses and luxury hotels and resorts. wear the black abaya and a headscarf when Find one that is eco-certified, or ask pertinent required. questions before booking to find out the extent of Normal tourist photography is acceptable, but their environmental commitment. do resist the urge to take photos in the airport, Whilst it is great to find an establishment that of government buildings, military installations is doing all the ‘right stuff’, it is ultimately the and definitely not of Muslim women as this is responsibility of the traveller to make sure they considered offensive. Like anywhere be polite and tread lightly and leave little to no negative impacts. ask permission before photographing people.

A huge thank you to Emirates Airline for flying Responsible Traveller and to the Dubai Tourism Commerce And Marketing South Africa (DTCMSA) for organising such an amazing itinerary.

Image - Madinat Jumeirah ©

www.visitdubai.com

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Green Globe certified Madinat Jumeirah and Burj Al Arab

What’s news...

Emirati Culture and Heritage acknowledged at prestigious World Travel Awards Local Dubai-based Platinum Heritage Tourism, known for showcasing Emirati heritage and culture in its unique range of authentic desert safari experiences, has been short-listed as a finalist in the 2015 World Travel Awards.

Considered to be the ‘Oscars of the Travel Industry’, the World Travel Awards acknowledge, reward and celebrate excellence across all sectors of the global travel and tourism industry.

Platinum Heritage Tourism has become the first Dubai-based firm to be short-listed in the Middle East Responsible Tourism category.

According to ADAM McEWAN, Managing Director of Platinum Heritage, “People don’t just travel to see, they travel to understand. Since Dubai is well known for world-class hotels and restaurants, for luxury and groundbreaking architectural feats, people forget that international guests want to travel into the past, to find out where Dubai’s journey began.”

Responsible Tourism embodies not just environmental conservation and protection but also the involvement and preservation of local communities and customs. Platinum Heritage has turned its back on the traditional desert safari model and instead uses iconic 1950s Land Rovers, the first 4WDs to traverse the rugged deserts of the region. Embarking on a journey back in time, visitors have a chance to learn the ancient art of falconry, view native flora and fauna inside a conservation reserve supported

financially with donations from each guest, sample delicious Emirati cuisine while viewing traditional cultural entertainment performances, and even meet with local Bedouins to learn more about their experience of Dubai’s massive transition.

ISSAM KAZIM, Chief Executive Officer of Dubai Corporation for Tourism and Commerce Marketing (DCTCM) commented: “I am very pleased that Platinum Heritage Tourism has been shortlisted for this award. The company is an important partner of DTCM, helping to showcase the many remarkable experiences available in Dubai by providing world-class tourist excursions and activities as well as exceptional service. It is particularly pleasing that the company’s efforts with regard to responsible tourism, conservation and environmental protection are being recognised, as these are essential components to ensure Dubai and Emirati heritage are preserved for future generations.”

“By employing local community members, protecting the fragile eco-system by avoiding damaging dune bashing, running on 100% solar power and, most importantly, protecting and showcasing Emirati heritage and culture, we want to prove that a tourism business does not have to be a distant observer of a destination, and that it can be an integral force driving positive change,” said Mr McEwan. •

www.platinumheritage.com

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Chef David Higgs... a whole lot more than a talented chef

E

ating at Five Hundred at the Saxon is the ultimate gourmet experience. From the beautifully set tables to the impeccable service (my handbag even got its own seat!) and, of course, the skillfully composed meals with excellent wine pairing. Chef David Higgs was given the prestigious award Chef of the Year at the 2013 Eat Out Awards, and his restaurant is considered the second best in the country after Luke Dale-Robert’s Test Kitchen.

Did you know that Chef Higgs designs his menus starting with what is fresh in his organic vegetable garden on the hotel grounds? Only once he has decided what greens are looking good does he go on to decide what protein to pair them with.

As we were strolling through the lush gardens, he showed me the broadbeans and told me to expect some of those in my dinner that evening.

He also pointed out some of his absolute favourites in the garden: beautiful edible flowers like nasturtium and pansies, and fragrant herbs like rose geranium.

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But there is more to David than prestigious awards and fancy food. In fact, he told me that when he is not in the kitchen he spends most of his time on Food Cycles, a sports, health and nutrition project founded by David in collaboration with the Diepsloot Mountain Bike Academy. Through this project, youngsters are given a chance to go for a ride, but also to learn important skills such as discipline, hard work and nutrition.

Food Cycles aims to educate the youth about nutrition and healthy eating habits; establish kitchens with sporting academies such as Diepsloot Mountain Bike Academy and Songo in Kayamandi, Stellenbosch; and utilise the kitchens to introduce the youngsters to cooking and thereby empowering them to cook their own meals.

Two of the promising youngsters in the club, Tsepo and Tendai, have gone one step further, and are now working as trainee chefs in David’s kitchen at the Saxon. It’s hard work. We’ve all seen the stressful atmosphere in a restaurant kitchen courtesy of TV programmes by chefs such as Ramsay and Oliver. Chef Higgs may not scream the way Ramsay does, but he accepts nothing less than perfect.

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Image courtesy of the Saxon Hotel ©

Images courtesy of Katarina Macama / My Slow Journey ©

Tsepo told me that in order to be on time for the 6am start, he has to get up at 3am. At the same time he is training for the grueling Absa Cape Epic race.

“He has to make time” was chef Higgs’ straightfaced comment. Tsepo just nodded savagely.

It is through the commitment from people like Chef Higgs that youngsters from deprived backgrounds are given a chance to go above and beyond. But the hard work is all theirs and I take my hat off to their bravery and determination!

• Katarina Mancama

www.saxon.co.za www.davidhiggs.co.za www.foodcycle.co.za Follow Katarina’s travels on her blog ‘My Slow Journey’

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‘Food Cycles aims to educate the youth about nutrition and healthy eating habits ...’

Image courtesy of Food Cycles

“But how do you find time and energy to train?” I asked. At that moment, Chef Higgs stopped next to us to test one of the tempting, freshly baked rolls that had been delivered for his approval (this must have been the hardest situation I have ever conducted an interview in; freshly baked, warm bread and rich, yellow butter sitting right in front of me).

Beautiful cuisine created and garnished from the organic vegetables grown in the Saxon Hotel grounds

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What’s news...

Delheim unearths forest fare during Wild Mushroom Weekends The legendary Delheim Wine Estate is offering avid foragers two exceptional weekends of wild mushroom hunts in its private forest, for enthusiasts to unearth theses elusive, seasonal delicacies and revel in fungi spotting excitement on 30 & 31 May and 3 & 4 July.

These foraging excursions are led by Delheim’s Nora Sperling-Thiel and Gary Goldman, a seasoned field expert and mushroom cultivator, and will see intimate groups setting foot for a magical ‘walk on the wild side’, in search of these delicious gems, lurking right there under one’s nose. The whole idea is for visitors to hone their foraging feelers and become comfortable in picking their own mushrooms, whilst embracing the lost art of seasonal foraging.

After an exhilarating morning, engaging in ‘the silent hunt’ amidst towering pine trees and indigenous flora, foragers will be rewarded with a mushroom-inspired three-course lunch in the historic Vat Cellar which promises to leave the taste buds euphoric.

“No one should fear the fungi! I will give a short lecture on edible and poisonous mushrooms before we trot off into the forest, so that you know how to identify the good, the bad and

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the ugly and really enjoy this magical spot at Delheim. There are old mushroom hunters and there are bold mushroom hunters, but there are no bold, old mushroom hunters,” shares Gary who goes by the moniker The Mushroom Guru.

“Most mushroom pickers are very tight-lipped about the whereabouts of their sources so this is a golden opportunity,” adds an elated Gary who can spot a camouflaged porcini in no time.

“Mushrooms simmering in garlic butter is one of my all time favourite smells and evoke fond childhood memories. It is just so much more rewarding if you know where it came from...and even better so if you have foraged it yourself,” adds Nora who grew up on the farm and learned to pick wild mushrooms from her mother.

There are only 40 spots available per day as Delheim treasures a delicate balance between sharing their ‘family passion’ and protecting their natural habitat.

For more information on this exploration of the hidden world of the fungi check out this link... •

www.delheim.com

What’s news...

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Images courtesy of Asilia Africa Š

Matemwe ...making a difference responsible traveller 53

M

atemwe Lodge is elevated on a ledge of dark coral rock jutting out over the clear, aquamarine ocean opposite the Mnemba Atoll. It is in the northeast corner of Zanzibar - or Unguja Island, as it is locally known. The island is an easy three and a half hour air journey from Johannesburg, and this makes it a perfect Indian Ocean destination. It is hard to believe that in such a short time you are in the heart of East Africa with the vast plains of the Serengeti close by.

It is an exotic and heady combination of global influences. The Portuguese, Egyptians, English, Chinese and Indians have all been involved there at one time or another. The English came over as missionaries and traders, with David Livingstone playing an important part in the abolition of slavery, but it was the Omani Arabs and Shirazi Persians that stayed permanently.

Like many countries in Africa, Zanzibar has a turbulent history scarred by its reputation for trading in slaves. Indians settled later on the island to provide a vital interface for the spice and ivory trade with the East. However, it is primarily the combination of Arab and African that gave rise to a today’s coastal community with distinctive physical features and a language developed from both origins - known as ‘Swahili’.

As trade developed as a currency around the

world, Zanzibar was a perfect stopover between America, Europe and Asia.

At one time its economy was one of the strongest on the continent because of its dominance of the spice trade. An uprising in 1964 saw the newly elected government redistribute arable land to people who had no proper knowledge of agriculture, and sadly Zanzibar’s hold on the spice trade gradually deteriorated. Indonesia and other countries in Asia quickly stepped in to take its place.

Nowadays the commercial sector of the spice trade on the island is small, and its income is now generated from tourism. A visit to one of the spice farms is one of the most popular day tour attractions. The other is a visit to Stonetown, the island’s capital, with its narrow streets and beautifully carved doors. The colourful street markets are a must, and the architecture is fascinating transcending the conversion of cultures.

Tourism is increasingly being seen as a solution to the island’s transformation and economic recovery.

The government has welcomed large hotel groups such as Planhotel and Kempinski, and with the year-round temperate climate due to its proximity to the equator, it is only a matter of time before it gains popularity with the mass markets. But while the income from tourism is very welcome, careful management will be required to make sure that Zanzibar does not become another victim of excessive tourism development. Learning from the experience of its neighbours, the government

‘Tourism is increasingly being seen as a solution to the island’s transformation and economic recovery ...’

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Images courtesy of Asilia Africa / Kerry de Bruyn Š

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is apparently putting policies in place to prevent foreign hotel companies from purchasing land.

Instead there will be a type of lease agreement, together with stipulations about job creation for local people.

Matemwe Lodge is a member of the Asilia Africa portfolio, and has long been at the forefront of sustainable tourism on the island. For the community of Matemwe Village it has provided a positive partnership and support system that enables local people to be involved in tourism.

The lodge is small and built with the lightest of footprints in mind, so that if it had to be taken away at any point, there would be little if any trace of it ever having been there. As Tanzania regularly suffers from power supply problems, solar energy was a logical choice and generally works well, except occasionally in times of high

demand. The building supplies used in building projects are made wherever possible from reclaimed materials, and the lodge has no glass windows. Clever use of patterned clay brick and wooden shutters provide shelter from the sun in the day and insulation at night from the cool breeze, the crashing waves and the cries of the bushbabies. The women of the community weave the reed mat carpets on the chalet floors and local procurement is key in terms of sourcing fresh food and vegetables.

Staff members are recruited from the local community and offer an extra dimension in terms of interactions with guests. The result is a very natural holiday experience that suits families, loners or honeymooners, and it presents without a doubt the essence of what responsible tourism is really about.

There is no doubt that the local community is

Image courtesy of Asilia Africa / Kerry de Bruyn Š

‘Staff members are recruited from the local community and offer an extra dimension in terms of interactions with guests...’

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The lodge helped to establish the seaweed project, and thus helped to create an income stream for the women of the village. It is a life dependent on the ocean, and a turtle conservation campaign is in place to make the villagers aware of protecting turtle eggs. Matemwe is also helping to finance the only local school, which is nearby, in order to offer a path to education for the local children. The building is basic, but it is working. This is authentic, rural life in the raw.

Matemwe is tangible and unpretentious. Though perhaps not the epitome of what we would expect as luxury, it is a taste of the real Zanzibar. It would be unsuitable for those seeking a highly polished and slick operation, but for the conscientious traveller and those who really care about the impact of their holiday on the destination they are visiting it is a perfect choice. • Helen Turnbull

www.matemwelodge.asiliaafrica.com

Image courtesy of Asilia Africa / Aadrian Loue Š

poor, but the people are charming and genuine.

The walking tour to the local village offers a rare insight into a different way of life, as your guide introduces you to the men working together to construct a new fishing boat from a solid mango trunk or playing bao together beneath the trees.

The women are busy drying off seaweed and weaving, and the youngsters tend the animals.

Each morning the men go off in search of the days catch; they must be mindful of the fact that the tide recedes by over four metres. Their time is limited and there is not a moment to lose.

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Awarded

World’s Best City Hotel World Responsible Tourism Awards l World Travel Market 2014

In the unlikely location of Cape Town’s Airport Industria, Africa’s Greenest Hotel is waiting to be discovered by you. Enjoy the comfort of our 4 star hotel with 5 star services & 3 star prices. Stay at Hotel Verde, the first Hotel in Africa to offer carbon neutral accommodation & conferencing to guests.

An experience like no other By staying one night at Hotel Verde you will personally Offset 27.4 kg of carbon

Save 76 kWh of electrcity

Save 492 liters of water*

divert 2.1 kg waste from landfill

*saving accounts for guest water use across the entire hotel

Carbon Neutral Accommodation & Conferencing l 145 Rooms & 7 Conference Venues l 400m from Cape Town Airport Complimentary Airport Shuttle & Shuttle to City Centre l Complimentary Wi-Fi l Urban Beehives & Urban Farming Restored Wetland l Restaurant with 24hr Room Service l Breakfast from 4h30am l Contemporary Bar 24hr Deli l Indoor & Outdoor Gym l Africa’s First Power Generating Gym Equipment l Jogging Trail, Eco Pool & Terrace

reservations@hotelverde.com l +27 (0) 21 380 5500 l www.hotelverde.com 15 MICHIGAN STREET, CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT, SOUTH AFRICA

What’s news...

Greenpop launches their Zambia Festival of Action 2015 Greenpop has launched their Zambia Festival of Action 2015 and is calling on people to… branch out and be the change!

Why Zambia?

Zambia has one of the highest deforestation rates in the world. After decades of poor land management, slash and burn farming methods, unsustainable logging and tree-cutting for charcoal, Zambia currently has an estimated deforestation rate of 250 000 to 300 000 hectares per year - that’s twice the size of Houston, Texas.

Greenpop has run their annual Zambia Festival of Action in Livingstone since 2012, as a way to draw attention to their ongoing environmental and eco-education project in the area as well a to bring people together from around the world to share knowledge and work together in a conference-style way.

Through the project and their three annual Festivals of Action, this dynamic social enterprise is making waves across the Zambezi. Their progress over the past 3 years in Zambia includes: 11 176 trees planted, 97 planting days, 24 sustainability workshops, 7 educational wall murals, over 50 handmade solar cookers, over 10 handmade rocket stoves, 74 Tree Tuesday radio shows, 48 school eco days, 5 community farms, 1 reforestation site, over 500 passionate planters from Zambia and around the world have joined in the 4 Festivals of Action so far.

“We’re not trying to save Zambia. The issue of deforestation in Zambia is incredibly complex and we do not intend to solve it with this project.

Instead, we hope to plant a seed with the people we reach that will inspire people to get active about a sustainable future for ourselves and our planet.”

the Festival of Action 2014.

Get Active!

Greenpop has already started gearing up for their Festival of Action 2015 where the organisation will once again host a variety of sustainability workshops for school children, subsistence farmers, and local and international volunteers and will facilitate the planting of thousands more trees – they are aiming for between 3500 and 4000 trees in 2015.

Last year their Festival of Action saw people attending workshops on permaculture and food forests, alternative energy, green building methods, and recycling and up-cycling. In 2015, Greenpop aims to grow the workshop element of the event and participants can look forward to a host of interesting topics which they will announce early next year, so keep an eye on their website and Facebook page.

“Being at Greenpop’s Festival of Action was transformative. Being in a such a breathtaking setting with such incredible people who all want to make a difference was amazing.” Cesca, Boston, USA – Festival of action participant in 2013.

Earth Fest Earth Fest is a rocking party with great live music from around southern Africa – it forms part of the Festival of Action. Participants who are there on the right dates are invited to enjoy some fine African beats on Saturday 11 July in Livingstone! Expect live music acts from all over southern Africa, groovy beats from local DJs, interactive presentations on environmentalism and sustainability and a great vibe.

“People who come to the Greenpop Zambia Festival of Action come to share knowledge, connect, give back and learn a lot themselves to take back to their countries and make small but necessary changes all over the world,” says Greenpop Director Lauren O’Donnell.

“Speaking for the whole community, we have cut down many trees for fuel. We are grateful to Greenpop for encouraging so many people to plant trees. We hope to spread the message to our friends and neighbours. Planting trees has really helped Livingstone!” says Gilbert Nyambe, Linda Farm School, Livingstone, where 40 trees were planted during an educational workshop at responsible traveller 61

What’s news...

Join one of these Festival of Action 2015 options: • Schools Programme (28 June to 5 July) – after the good feedback Greenpop received after taking 3 high school groups on the project in 2014, they have decided to launch a special schools week for 13 to 19 year olds who want to get their hands dirty and experience a learning adventure.

• Festival of Action Week 1 (5 July - 12 July) – all ages welcome • Festival of Action Week 2 (12 July - 19 July) – all ages welcome • Festival of Action Both Weeks (5 July to 19 July) Trees for Fees Something that has worked really well for participants and for Greenpop in the last 3 years is their innovative Trees for Fees programme.

Greenpop developed this to allow people to fundraise for trees through a personal payment portal in order to get the project fees for free (or discounted!) Last year they raised 3205 trees for the project like this – crowdfunding at its best – and over 20 people took part, asking friends and family to gift trees instead of birthdays, event tickets and other occasions. Says Viv Connell, a previous Trees for Fees participant, “It’s quite fun asking people to donate money for trees. One just puts it out there and waits. And then you fall in love with the people who actually DO send tree donations.”

Those who raise 80 trees get 1 week for free.

150 trees is 2 free weeks. To find out more about Trees for Fees, email zambia@greenpop.org •

www.greenpop.org

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What’s news...

Burgeoning waste paper buy-back centres flourish in the recycling market The recycling industry has become a significant employer, and its potential to deliver economic and social benefits continues to be powerfully demonstrated by Mpact Recycling, South Africa’s largest paper recycler.

Mpact Recycling, part of the JSE-listed Mpact paper and plastic packaging group, embraces a small business empowerment model by partnering with local entrepreneurs who help to collect recycled paper.

Aside from its own operations in major centres around South Africa, Mpact Recycling has helped set up 42 buy-back centres, where traders deliver waste paper for payment. The company also buys additional material from over 100 independent dealers throughout the country.

Mpact Recycling collects approximately 450 000 tonnes per annum of recovered paper, and supplies this recovered fibre to the Group’s paper mills for processing into recycled-based cartonboard and containerboard for sale to South Africa’s packaging industry. By recycling this waste paper Mpact prevents it from being disposed of in landfill sites.

According to the Paper Recycling Association of South Africa (PRASA), recycling work presently provides jobs for around 100,000 people in South Africa, many of whom are entrepreneurs and small business owners who rely on finding and selling sustained volumes of recyclable material to earn a living.

“Sustainability is key to our business and this includes contributing to the economy of the country through job creation,” says John Hunt, managing director of Mpact Recycling. “A culture of recycling is emerging within our country which is having a really positive effect on poverty alleviation, enterprise development and economic growth. At the same time, there is the

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significant environmental benefit of reusing this valuable resource and preventing the landfilling or incineration of used paper.

“In this competitive industry, our main differentiator is that we enable recycling,provide the expertise and equipment necessary for entrepreneurs to start up buy-back centres and provide a secure market for the resale of the material they collect.”

Robertville Recycling, a buy-back centre in Roodepoort, is one such success story. The centre was established by Queen PhasheBoikanyo some 12 years ago, with the help of Mpact Recycling, which assisted with finding a location and providing training. Today she has five full time employees and is supplied with recyclable material by local collectors who scour the surrounding industrial areas for waste paper, cardboard and plastic.

The Robertville buy-back centre processes about 100 tons of waste paper and cardboard a month, selling it onto Mpact Recycling. This successful recycling business has enabled Phashe-Boikanyo to put all four of her children through school and the oldest two through university. Her eldest daughter is now a pharmacist and the next daughter will soon graduate as a dentist.

Phashe-Boikanyo is optimistic about the future: “This is a good business with the potential to get bigger, because a lot of the paper that is used in people’s homes and offices is still not recycled. I encourage people to start recycling, because it creates jobs and keeps our environment clean.

All you have to do is start separating the paper from the other things you throw away and, once you have enough, bring it to an Mpact Recycling buy-back centre.” •

www.mpact.co.za