Responsible Traveller mag - edition 3 - 2020

R E S P O N S I B L E edition 3 – 2020

be the difference

Marine Big Five • Safari time in Thailand • Explore KZN - beach, bush & berg •

Wild & Wonderful CELEBRATING RESPONSIBLE TOURISM SINCE 2008

LEARN. LAUGH. LOCAL. THAILAND AWAITS.

These feelings are waiting for you to come back.

Amazing Thailand Amazing Thailand SouthSouth Africa Africa Facebook Link https://www.thailandsa.co.za https://www.facebook.com/amazingthailandinsouthafrica/ For further information, contact the Tourism Authority of Thailand’s representative office For further information, contact the in Tourism Authority of Thailand’s representative office based Johannesburg: based in Johannesburg: Tel:+27 11463 8195 Fax:+27 11463 8196 Email:info@lscpr.co.za Tel+27 11463 8195 fax:+27 463 8196, email info@lscpr.co.za

Comment

Welcome to another edition of Responsible Traveller.

What a year 2020 has been! In addition to the impact on our personal lives, especially from a health and livlihood perspective, it has been exceptionally challenging to those in the travel industry. My heartfelt thoughts and prayers are with those who have lost jobs and businesses as well as friends, family and colleagues to this dreadful virus.

Travel is in an ‘open-closed again’ cycle with only a few choosing to travel at this time despite the travel industry being prepared and ready with all precautions in place. But even if you aren’t planning to travel now, you can DREAM and PLAN so that when the time arises you will be well prepared to book your long overdue travels. And when travelling, please keep in mind all the saftey precautions and regulations that are expected of us #BeTravelWise In this edition we explore all things wild and wonderful - from the wonders of Khao Sok National Park in Thailand with Elephant Hills, and a conservation success story in the making at Babanango Game Reserve in KZN. I get up-close to nature at Mhondoro Safari Lodge in Limpopo’s Waterberg Mountains and give you the low-down of what to do in KZN’s iSimangaliso Wetland Park - from game drives to birdwatching, ocean safaris, turtle tours and bird watching. As if that’s not enough to get you dreaming, how about experiencing the wonder of the Marine Big Five in Gansbaai?

But as always, the responsibility of being a responsible traveller lies ultimately with the person travelling and the choices they make. Remember to stay, shop, experience and eat local and to search for the off the beaten track sites and experiences - many small businesses are depending on you. This all goes a long way in helping to provide employment, contributing to the local economy and making a difference in people’s lives.

Enjoy the read… and be the difference.

Tessa

Magazine Information edition 3 - 2020 Publisher / Editor Tessa Buhrmann Cell: 083 603 9000 tessa@responsibletraveller.co.za Design & Layout Michele Mayer Cell: 082 934 6940 creativelink@mweb.co.za Advertising & editorial enquiries tessa@responsibletraveller.co.za

Responsible Traveller Published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC (CK 2008/178482/23) Contact Details P.O. Box 3, Gillitts 3603 KwaZulu-Natal South Africa Tel: +27 31 7674022 Responsible Traveller Magazine Celebrating responsible tourism since 2008

Digital Subscriptions www.responsibletraveller.co.za

Cover Image: Babanango Game Reserve pic - Chris Galliers Disclaimer Responsible Traveller is published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC. The information provided and the opinions expressed in this publication are done so in good faith and while every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the managing editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages that may arise. All rights are reserved and no material from this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publishers.

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Contents REGULARS:

Comment 03

08

Being a Responsible Traveller 06 DESTINATIONS & PLACES TO STAY: Babanango Game Reserve - a conservation

success story in the making 08

Drakensberg Wanderings 22 Thailand’s Khao Sok National Park - a luxury ‘safari’

experience with Elephant Hills 42

Nature’s way at Mhondoro Safari Lodge 68 iSimangaliso Wetland Park 88 CONSERVATION & RESPONSIBLE TOURISM:

30 42

Experience the wonder of the Marine Big Five 30 Responsible Tourism takes centre stage in South Africa

64

Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve - Q&A with Greg Simkins

84

GreenCape - Celebrating a Decade of Green Economy Growth

114

The Importandce of Environmental Sustainability in

Tourism & Hospitality 120

NEWS: Tourism News 122

• Kruger Shalati Train on a Bridge

124

• Angama’s new sole-use Tented Camp in Maasai Mara

128

• Babanango Game Reserve’s new Matatane Camp

130

• Jack’s Camp - an icon reborn 132

Conservation & Community News

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• Eco charcoal boosts SA’s water security

134

• Chef Zacharia Maseko - Wild Coast Sun’s new executive chef 136

• The Edge of Existence wins top interbational award

• Beetle-busting research at Vergelegen 140

• Winner of Greatest Maasai Mara Photographer of Year 142

• Samara Game Reserve employs nature’s smallest guards 144

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www.responsibletraveller.co.za

The leading 5-star cage diving experience in South Africa.

More than just a dive, our marine biologists share their knowledge & adventures on each trip!

Not just another whale watching trip.

Experience the Marine Big 5 in their natural habitat, around the world famous Dyer Island ecosystem.

In association with Volkswagen Focused on the conservation and protection of the endangered African Penguin & other Sea birds.

African Penguin and Seabird Sanctuary - APSS

Offering marine enthusiasts a range of life-changing experiences, designed to improve their skills and employability prospects.

Being a

Responsible Traveller

Responsible travel is a way of enjoying the many sights, experiences and memories of the destination you have chosen. It ensures that visitors and local communities alike share the benefits of tourism and travel equally, and it promotes greater understanding of and appreciation for fair and equitable business practice. Responsible travel is about putting back into travel what you get from it, and here are a few considerations that you could make when next you travel.

• Ask to see your tour operator's responsible travel policy.

• Ask to see the environmental policy of the accommodation establishment that you have selected – don’t be fooled by vague and unsubstantiated claims.

• Help the local economy by buying local produce in preference to imported goods.

• Ask your tour operator to establish the extent to which local communities enjoy benefits from your economic spend during your stay at a location.

• If bargaining to buy an item, bear in mind that a small amount to you could be extremely important to the seller – be realistic and fair.

• Realise that often the people in the country you are visiting have different time concepts, values and thought patterns from your own, this does not make them inferior, only different.

• Cultivate the habit of asking questions and discover the pleasure that you can enjoy by seeing a different way of life through others eyes.

• Use public transport, hire a bike or walk where convenient – you'll meet local people and get to know the place far better – always be safe and considerate.

• Use water sparingly – it is precious inmany countries and the local people may not have sufficient clean water – challenge any wasteful practice at your hotel or lodge.

• Switch Something Off – whenever you leave your room, switch unnecessary lights and equipment off and play your part in reducing greenhouse emissions.

• Don't discard litter when visiting outof-the-way places and attractions, take it with you and dispose of it at your hotel or lodge. Waste disposal is often a major problem at outlying attractions and sites and it leads to litter and unhealthy environments for locals.

• Respect local cultures, traditions and holy places. For example, ask permission before you photograph local people – in some countries it can cause offence.

• Learn more about the cultural experiences that you are exposed to – avoid ‘sound-byte’ tourism and encourage tour operators to provide more insight into the dances, songs and traditionalexperiences that they present to you.

• Do not buy products made from endangered species, hard woods, shells from beach traders, or ancient artefacts (which have probably beenstolen). When visiting gift and curio shops, be aware of the source of the products on sale and if in doubt, don’t buy.

• Read up on the countries you plan to visit – the welcome will be warmer if you take an interest and speak even a few words of the local language.

• When you get home drop your tour operator a note to let them know how you got on.

Essentials: www.heritagesa.co.za www.fairtrade.travel www.trees.co.za www.rhinoafrica.com

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BABANANGO GAME RESERVE...

a conservation success story in the making 08 responsible traveller

Words - Tessa Buhrmann Pics - Tessa Buhrmann & Babanango Game Reserve responsible traveller 09

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chorus of birds proclaims the morning. The repetitive call of the red-chested cuckoo (aka Piet My Vrou) easily outdoing the melodious ‘pretty Georgie’ of the African emerald cuckoo and the mournful cry of the black cuckoo. The sun-dappled hillsides of the evening before were shrouded in mist. All evidence of the rocky koppies and swathes of aloes from our game drive the day before temporarily cloaked.

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I was at Zulu Rock Lodge in the Babanango Game Reserve (BGR), located in the heart of South Africa’s beautiful northern KwaZuluNatal (KZN). Its mountainside location ensured sweeping views across a dramatic wilderness, the grasslands and savanna punctuated with rocky outcrops and the White Umfolozi river in the distance.

My stone-clad chalet was beautifully decorated in a minimalistic yet comfortable way, the earthy tones blending perfectly with the expansive views beyond the bi-fold doors leading onto my private deck. There was even a fireplace which would be perfect for chilly winter evenings armed with a good book and a glass of red wine. responsible traveller 11

The décor in the main lodge area gives one a sense of place with several curated Zulu artifacts and a selection of wildlife photographs on canvas. This is the social hub of the lodge, it’s where conversations and laughter fill the air, where one lingers over a meal and where glorious sunsets are celebrated. It’s the place to relax on a couch with a cappuccino or grab the binoculars and scan the hillsides below for game – where anything from wildebeest and zebra to giraffe and white rhino may come into view. One thing is certain though, Zulu Rock Lodge is all about the views!

Our afternoon game drive with guide Theo and Babanango Reserve Manager Musa Mbatha had us ‘oohing and aahing’ over the views, we gaze up in amazement at the height of the aloes and listen to tales of the region’s history – these were once the stomping ground of Zulu kings and warriors alike.

We watch hippos in the dam and are rewarded by what appears to be a yawn, but we learn that it is in fact a warning sign that it is feeling threatened… so we move on. A stately blue crane, South Africa’s national bird, feeds from the grassland, and as we watch Musa tells us that they are breeding on the reserve which is great news as their conservation status is classified as vulnerable. He tells us that the secretary bird, also classified as vulnerable, are breeding too. We chuckle at a confused male giraffe as he fails to get the action that he clearly desires and his mate wanders off, perhaps in frustration.

A pair of white rhino graze alongside us, oblivious to their threatened status and unaware of the security team that oversees their safety. They don’t seem to notice us, more concerned with filling their bellies with the lush greenery the spring rains have brought.

Many reserves frown upon any mention of their rhino, but not here where Jeff van Staden, COO of African Habitat Conservancy (AHC), tells us that they are extremely proud of their small but growing rhino population and the conservation success that their security team ensures.

That evening I raise a toast to their continued success, my G&T aglow as flames flicker on the deck and the sun sinks below the horizon – I sigh in contentment, all is well in this special piece of Africa…

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Jeff is our driver and guide the next morning, and he suggests we take the scenic route to our next stop, Babanango Valley Lodge. We pass iMathenhlope, so named for the white rocks that appear to be strewn on its hillsides and exit the secured game fence area into community land. Jeff explains that this is part of the ‘reserve in the making’.

This new game reserve is slowly taking shape and after almost three years realises local Emcakwini, Esibongweni and KwaNgono community’s decade-long vision of creating a wilderness area that would attract tourism and stimulate the local economy – the Babanango Game Reserve. This project is being undertaken by African Habitat Conservancy (AHC) to support African conservation through investment and community development with several private game farms and community land brought together to form the reserve.

Babanango Game Reserve, which boasts 22 000-hectares of pristine wilderness, is a biodiversity hotspot. The variety of habitats, vegetation types and altitude on the reserve allows for a large diversity of species. From more than 33 species of butterfly, a bird list of 285 species and counting, as well as a mammal list that currently includes 56 species – including a number of rare, vulnerable, and threatened species that are currently resident on the reserve. Once the reserve is fenced and operational, it will provide refuge for additional rare and vulnerable species, such as black and white rhino, cheetah and oribi.

Crossing the White Umfolozi river into the hills beyond. Jeff explains that these hills are a significant catchment for the area and plays an important role in the provision of water downstream from its boundaries. There are several communities that rely on this water, particularly as they are in rural areas with little or no municipal supply.

‘Babanango Game Reserve, which boasts 22 000-hectares of pristine wilderness is a biodiversity hotspot...’

“We are in the process of an alien plant clearing program, alien vegetation, especially alien trees like wattle, utilise significantly more water than indigenous species. Removing these species will therefore have a huge impact on the amount of surplus water flowing to downstream users”.

The scenery is spectacular. We drive beside rivers and wetlands, across grasslands and savanna, head up more hills and pass more rocky outcrops. A giant monitor lizard takes refuge in a tree escaping our prying eyes, responsible traveller 15

Zilwa Attitude

a bird of prey soars above us and a pair of paradise flycatchers’ flit around in a nearby bush – frustrating the photographers with their unpredictable moves.

We pass old fence posts and previously cultivated lands, an old stone structure being consumed by a wild fig tree, beautiful in its simplicity. Outside a mudbrick homestead an old man waves in greeting – he is one of the community members that will be given a new home. His cattle still roam these lands, but once the reserve fences are completed and alternate grazing areas provided, they too will move.

We climb and we climb, low range is required, and we climb some more. We’re not even at 16 responsible traveller

the highest point in the reserve yet and the views down into the valley below and across to distant hills are breath-taking. Jeff hauls out the cooler box and we do a drinks and snack break in style.

And just when I think I’ve seen the best scenery that Babanango Game Reserve has to offer we climb even higher, more gently this time, and pause to appreciate the high mistbelt grasslands where the aloes stand like sentries, the rocks add texture and the last of the spring blooms add a bit of extra colour. I would have loved to step out of the vehicle and explore this endangered habitat in more detail but our descent into another valley was calling, as were the welcome drinks at Babanango Valley Lodge.

Babanango Valley Lodge, set within beautifully manicured indigenous gardens, offers the perfect escape from city life. It’s relaxed and family friendly, with the staff always ready with a broad smile and happy to serve.

The attention to detail is everywhere, and the tasteful décor harkens back to colonial days with comfortable couches, bookcases, and an ‘original’ looking fireplace. The walls are adorned with black and white newspaper sketches of the Brit and Zulu battles that occurred in the area.

Step outside and what greets the eye is the picturesque Nsubeni River valley and the endless granite koppies, sandstone cliffs, and

quartzite ridges stretching into the distance.

But at the heat of the day, it is the rim-flow pool that has our attention…

Wonderfully refreshed I stroll through the gardens in search of the endemic Aloe gerstneri, but my knowledge of aloes is limited so I require some help locating it. It is listed as a vulnerable species and only occurs in a very small area in northern KZN of approximately 111km2, and in only seven known locations – one of which is within the reserve.

There is also potential for Aloe nicholsii to occur within the reserve, as its natural habitat is rocky grassland within Northern Zululand Sourveld. It is currently not known to occur responsible traveller 17

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in any protected area and is listed as critically endangered, due to its small distribution and rapid habitat loss, so were it to be found here it would be another BGR win for conservation.

Another special plant species to be found in the reserve is the Gerbera aurantiaca, or Hilton Daisy, a strikingly beautiful grassland plant with orange blooms which is under considerable threat of extinction due to habitat fragmentation and degradation. It is endemic to the mistbelt grassland region of KZN in only nine scattered populations, one of which is here.

Additionally, it is highly likely that there are a great number of ‘protected’ trees and listed plant species on the reserve, and due to the high level of habitat degradation in the surrounding area, these plant populations are of significant conservation value.

As is the unpredictability of nature, our planned afternoon game drive had to be cancelled, but we were rewarded with a spectacular thunderstorm complete with brilliant flashes of lightning above the high surrounding hills.

We did at least manage sundowners with the backdrop of a pastel sky and a fabulously delicious boma dinner around a crackling fire later that evening.

With its eye firmly on attracting tourism to the area, Babanango will eventually be the home of the Big Five - elephant, rhino, leopard, lion, and buffalo - thanks to AHC’s strategic game reintroduction programme, which kicked off towards the end of 2019 with the release of a seed herd of 23 disease-free buffalo onto a 945ha section of the reserve. Currently, game drives are offered within two fenced off areas within the greater BGR area, which is home to giraffe, hyena, zebra, several antelope species, white rhino as well as the elusive aardvark and aardwolf.

“Leopard already occur naturally in the area, so the remainder of the Big Five species will be introduced over the coming two years,” says Babanango Reserve Manager Musa Mbatha. “In the meantime, we are continually fine-tuning our management of the area under protection through the monitoring of game numbers and the relocation of certain species when populations become too large for a certain area to sustain,” he adds.

Whilst one may be tempted to wait until BGR attains its Big Five status, I would suggest that 20 responsible traveller

now is the time to visit as one has the freedom to explore with more freedom – conservation and nature enthusiasts will enjoy the guided game walks and mountain bike excursions – there are several marked trails for use, both with and without a guide.

And history buffs will enjoy the guided walk to one of the old copper mines on the property and tours of the nearby battlefields are also available, featuring Isandlwana and Rorke’s Drift along with the eMakhosini Valley (Valley of the Kings).

Babanango Game Reserve certainly delivers on its promise of offering guests a ‘captivating bush experience’ as well as the opportunity to be a part of a ground-breaking conservation project that will benefit local communities and protect precious wildlife for future generations to enjoy. •

www.babanango.co.za

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Dra kensberg

WANDERINGS

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words - Megan Bedingham pics - The Cavern

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here are few things that feed the soul quite like time in the Drakensberg Mountains. These ancient cliffs, crystal berg streams and lush indigenous forests create a landscape which begs to be explored. One of the most wonderful features of the berg is the comprehensive range of activities on offer. Hiking is the one that is always front of mind and sometimes the thought of such an adventure can put many people off. While these high mountains provide days of thrilling adventure there are many other aspects which must be explored. responsible traveller 23

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For those that are more cautious and careful the shorter walks are definitely an option. The wander along the Mahai River to the Cascades at Royal Natal National Park is a gentle outing for both old and very young. Or a stroll through the Fern Forest at The Cavern, looking out for all the informative nature boards makes for a very pleasant afternoon outing.

An amble to the Natural Pool remains an alltime highlight!

The sounds of the cascading streams, the calls of the forest beetles and the song of nearby birds immerses one in the natural beauty of the berg. This quiet reflective time is what really restores.

Children splashing in streams, throwing small stones and racing wooden boats provides a space for engaging play. It’s quite incredible how a bit of fresh mountain air, coupled with a bit of activity lightens the heart and induces deeper sleep!

The mountains hide treasures which must be discovered. Ancient bushman paintings, the rock carving of the Silent Woman, an old quarry and the story of Cannibals that once hid from King Shaka are all to be discovered in this verdant valley.

But for those who seek an adrenaline rush and need to achieve, day outings to Gudu Falls, The Royal Grotto or summiting the 5 peaks surrounding The Cavern on the Big5Hike provides the ideal challenge. The climbs make the muscles burn, the steep drops and valleys create magnificent views and the sense of achievement after completion feeds the body, mind and soul.

Then there are places that are rarely visited and the wildness of the adventure can be so appealing. Bundu bashing through long grass, climbing Juluka Pass and being off the beaten track makes the Sungubala Challenge an incredibly special day hike.

A trip to the Northern berg some would consider incomplete without a hike to either the Tugela Gorge or the Amphitheatre Ascent.

These hikes are spectacular. The Tugela Gorge follows an easy gradient along the Tugela River followed by some boulder hopping to the tunnel. This unique spot was formed over many years as the river has gouged its way through the rocks. There are rock pools for the most invigorating swims and a must in the Summer months. responsible traveller 25

‘One of the most wonderful features of the berg is the comprehensive range of activities on offer. Hiking is the one that is always front of mind..’

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The Amphitheatre Ascent does involve a 2 hour drive to the Sentinel Car Park. Presently the road is still in the process of being upgraded and is particularly rough. A 2x4 or 4x4 with good clearance is recommended. But, once you have bounced your way into the car park, a good hike awaits.

The path goes via the Zig-Zags to the first view point which is majestic. From there the path follows a contour beneath the massive cliffs to the chain ladders and in just over 2 hours most hikers arrive on the very top!

This is followed by a steady walk to the top of the Tugela Falls for a picnic lunch and time should be left to explore a bit further to see the ‘windows’ which are cut-backs in the cliffs which provide a glimpse of the valley thousands of feet below.

But sometimes it’s the wind through your hair and the sweeping Mountain biking trails that feed the soul. In the Northern Berg almost 80kms of trails are ready to be explored and a range is on offer for all abilities. Peddling the Acacia loop or climbing up the Grotto trail before sweeping into Montusi Gorge makes this pristine MTB countryside.

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Horse riding is also a great way to experience the hills. While the steady-footed Basotho ponies trek the hills, one can admire the surrounds and take in the natural environment without too much effort. The Adrenalin junkies can always opt for the experienced ride and enjoy a canter through the valley followed by a gallop as the horses make their way home!

Hiking, riding, walking or simply strolling can test the body and after a bit of activity it’s always a treat to be pampered with a massage.

The Forest Retreat at The Cavern is set in the canopy of the indigenous Fern Forest. The Puterill’s Spruit cascades while the waterfall plummets onto the rocks below. It’s a heavenly space for complete restoration.

Coupled with activity and tranquil moments are the wholesome meals and tasty fare.

Grab a bottle from the Underground Cellar to finish off and celebrate the day. Then it’s time to retreat for that long lovely sleep after wanderings in the great outdoors. •

www.cavern.co.za

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EXPERIENCE THE WONDER OF THE MARINE BIG FIVE

Words & pics - Dyer Island Cruises 30 responsible traveller

Image credit - Wilfred Chivell responsible traveller 31

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yer Island Cruises’ guests have the unique opportunity of potentially seeing all the Marine Big 5 in a single trip, nature permitting. The Marine Big Five™ - Sharks, Whales, Dolphins, the Cape fur seal, and the endangered African Penguin – are the subject of many nature documentaries.

The Dyer Island ecosystem is a marine wildlife dream for many. Dyer Island is classified as an Important Bird Area and is home to breeding colonies of the endangered African Penguin, as well as other seabirds.

The many sheltered areas of the bay provide the mating and calving ground for the Southern Right Whales that migrate here from the sub-Antarctic islands between June to December each year. You may also even see a breaching Humpback whale that is migrating along the coastline, a 3000 km journey from the 32 responsible traveller

sub-Antarctic islands towards Mozambique’s warmer waters. Or perhaps one of the local species, the shy Bryde’s whale, may make an appearance. These whales are found along the coastline throughout the year and feed on fish so often follow large shoals.

Gansbaai is world renowned for the iconic great white sharks that visit the bay. This is one of the most accessible populations in the world as the sharks are often found just metres from shore or hunting around the 40 000 strong seal colony on Geyser Rock, opposite Dyer Island. November is pupping season and

Dyer Island - image credit - Wilfred Chivell

there are many small pups at this time of the year. These pups will venture out to the open sea at around 6 months (April) and this is the time when white sharks may capitalise on their inexperience. If sister company Marine Dynamics is on sea, you may be lucky to see this legendary apex predator, or perhaps be enthralled by the bronze whaler sharks with their shimmering gold colour.

We have three dolphin species that move through these waters – the Common dolphin, the Bottlenose, and the Humpback dolphin.

Common dolphins are generally seen in large

groups, even in the hundreds. Bottlenose dolphins tend to travel in family groups, whilst the elusive and endangered humpback dolphin may be sighted alone or in small groups. Studies of the endangered humpack dolphins show that there are probably less than 500 individuals on the South African coastline. The team can hopefully show you some of our favourites - Oupa, Fingers, Captain Hook, or Newton.

The African penguin breeds on Dyer Island and is sometimes seen in groups swimming at sea. Sadly, the species is classified as responsible traveller 33

Whale

Image credit - Hennie Otto Image credit - Kelly Baker

Shark 34 responsible traveller

Image credit - Sandra Hรถrbst

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Image credit - Hennie Otto

Dolphin African Penguin

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Cape Fur Seal

‘The onboard marine biologist will entertain and educate you on all the species we see and the ecosystem at large... ’

Image credit - Sandra Hörbst

endangered with an estimated 13 300 breeding pairs left in South Africa. Dyer Island Cruises together with the Dyer Island Conservation Trust is doing much in terms of penguin conservation and a visit to the African Penguin and Seabird Sanctuary is a must.

The onboard marine biologist will entertain and educate you on all the species we see and the ecosystem at large. There is magic on the ocean and besides the Marine Big 5, stingray, box jellyfish, sunfish (mola mola) and maybe even orca, might be spotted.

The trip is suited to all ages and is a great way to introduce children to the marine world. Life is an adventure to be lived is a quote the Dyer Island Cruises live by. Join the adventure. responsible traveller 37

PELAGIC BIRDING ENCOUNTERS A memorable birding experience on sea to photograph albatrosses, petrels, shearwaters and more.

This one is for the bird lovers. Many pelagic birds are opportunistic feeders that find and follow the commercial fishing trawlers found in the deeper waters off the continental shelf. The expert team heads out 70-80km offshore to observe these seabirds, some of the largest and most awe inspiring that includes albatrosses, petrels, shearwaters, jaegers, terns, prions, and of course cormorants and gulls.

Over 50 or more pelagic seabird species may be sighted throughout the year. It is a breath-taking experience to watch as the birds feed on fish as they are brought to the surface, or on scraps thrown overboard. As we leave the harbour, you will see some typical shoreline birds, such as Kelp Gull and Swift Tern, but the first true seabirds we are likely to encounter are small Sooty Shearwaters and the larger Subantarctic Skuas. We usually encounter White-chinned Petrels and one or two albatrosses before we even get to the first trawler.

The trip is a full day leaving early from the Great White House in Kleinbaai and returning in the afternoon with a stop at the famous Dyer Island to view the extensive Cape cormorant colony and the endangered African penguin.

For bird photography, a lens greater than 400mm could be a liability. A 100-300mm range is ideal, but a wide-angle also offers exciting possibilities. An illustrated guide of seabird species is provided.

Three albatross species - Indian yellow-nosed, shy and black-browed as well as some kelp gull Image credit - Wilfred Chivell

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Cape Gannet - image credit - Sandra Hรถrbst

Shy albatross, white chinned petrels and kelp gull Image credit - Wilfred Chivell responsible traveller 39

Join DYER ISLAND CRUISES on an unforgettable and educational marine safari.

Marine Big 5 Tour OR Shark cage diving - South African Special - 40% discounted rate Valid till May 2021.; Under 5s free of charge. R25 conservation fee per person for the Dyer Island Conservation Trust is applicable.

Pelagic Birding – As and when conditions allow and guests go on a waiting list.

All trips depart from the Great White House 5 Geelbek Street, Kleinbaai, Gansbaai, Western Cape.

By joining any of the tours, you can be assured that YOUR CHOICE MAKES A DIFFERENCE for conservation and the community through the Dyer Island Conservation Trust. Leaders in responsible shark cage diving and pioneers of ethical marine eco-tourism, Marine Dynamics and Dyer Island Cruises are award winning Fair Trade Tourism certified companies provide logistical, marketing, and financial support to the Trust.

Visit the key project – the African Penguin and Seabird Sanctuary. Entrance is free and penguin feeding can be observed at 3pm daily. Coffee and curio shop on site.

Email: whales@marinedynamicstravel.com / Ph: 082 801 8014 / www.dyerislandcruises.co.za sharks@marinedynamicstravel.com / Ph: 082 380 3405 / www.marinedynamics.co.za Visit the daily blogs for updated sightings. • 40 responsible traveller

Orca - image credit - Hennie Otto

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THAILAND...

‘W

ith more than 100 national parks to choose from visitors to Thailand are spoilt for choice when seeking natural experiences. From Thailand’s largest national park, Kaeng Krachan, which borders Myanmar, to the relatively small Kui Buri National Park near the little village of Ruam Thai - both with herds of free-roaming Asian elephants. Or Khao Sam Roi National Park about a four-hour drive south-west of Bangkok with its limestone peaks, wetlands, and unspoilt white beaches to Khao Sok National Park with Thailand’s largest primary rainforest and enormous Cheow Lan Lake as well as the mysterious mangrove channels near Takua Pa.

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words & pics - Tessa & Daryl Buhrmann

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KHAO SOK NATIONAL PARK 44 responsible traveller

...and a luxury ‘safari’ experience with Elephant Hills

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king fisher flies off in a flash of blue and a heron watches warily as we pass by. We drift slowly down the Sok River, dwarfed by limestone mountains and cliffs covered with verdant jungle. Our canoes stable and safe as our guide gently paddles us beneath limestone overhangs and clumps of bamboo. It is quiet except for the swish of paddles, the occasional chorus of cicadas and ever-present bird calls. I gaze up, marvelling at the vast areas of primary rainforest, relieved that this patch of nature is likely as it was thousands of years ago. responsible traveller 45

I was lucky enough to win a holiday to Elephant Hills, Thailand’s first Luxury Tented Jungle Camp – which comprises of two camps, the Elephant Camp, and the floating Rainforest Camp, both situated in the Khao Sok National Park in the Surat Thani province. We opted for the fourdays and three-nights Rainforest Nature Safari at Elephant Camp as it gave us the best of both in a relatively limited time.

The getting there was easy - our transfer collected us from the Robinson Club Khao Lak, along with other guests from hotels in the vicinity. A comfortable couple of hours drive had us passing towns and little villages, farmlands, palm-oil- and rubber plantations as well as shrines and temples… soon it was patches of forest and jungle clad limestone cliffs.

On arrival at Elephant Camp, the first thing one notices is the view!

The bright red of umbrellas splashed against the deep green of the jungle, and a limestone mountain that almost feels close enough to touch. The communal areas of wood and ‘jungle thatch’ blending perfectly with their surroundings.

After being introduced to our guide, Banana, and learning the plans and procedures for the next few days we check out our room – it’s an African style safari tent complete with proper beds, wooden floors, electricity, and an en-suite bathroom.

The tents have screens which are bug proof, so the the critters get to stay outside. I loved the unique and hand-crafted furniture made by local Elephant Hills craftsmen and that the amenities were provided in dispensers on the wall – ‘yay’ for the lack of single use plastic! We were each given an aluminium water bottle to use during our stay and the fill-up water stations dispensing chilled drinking water made filling up regularly a breeze. And that icy drink from the bar after the day’s excursions? Comes with a stainless-steel straw if required.

But it was time for lunch before setting off down the Sok River…

ELEPHANT EXPERIENCE Our introduction to the jungle by way of the river complete, it was time to get out of the canoe and head, by vehicle – a decommissioned Thai military transporter, to the elephant camp.

Our first glimpse of the elephants was them enjoying their natural environment… relishing 46 responsible traveller

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a sand bath, munching on grasses and, for a couple of them, asserting their dominance with a bit of trumpeting and play fighting.

The Elephant Hills Elephant Experience was implemented in 2010 as a means to rehabilitate elephants that have been rescued from a life of captivity and to offer an intimate experience that would be both educational and memorable. ’Would it measure up’ I wondered.

We learn about the history of elephants in Thailand, their cultural significance, and their extensive use in the logging industry – a practice that was thankfully banned in 1989.

The problems didn’t stop there though as this left about 2000 mahouts out of work and unable to generate the income required 48 responsible traveller

to provide the approximately 200kg of food for their elephant, so many of them turned to elephant tourism - elephant back riding, entertainment and being paraded down streets and doing tricks as a means of begging.

The problem with this goes beyond the activities themselves to the inhumane and abusive way elephants are treated in the ‘training’ they receive with the use of bull hooks, electric prodders, and other cruel methods of control.

Thankfully, there are now several ethical elephant sanctuaries in Thailand that offer rehabilitation to the elephants, a means of employment for the mahouts and memorable educational experiences to guests, such as here at Elephant Hills.

‘Thankfully there are now several ethical elephant sanctuaries in Thailand that offer rehabilitation to the elephants and a means of employment for the mahouts...’

We head into the large elephant enclosure; they see us coming and head our way, obviously happy for us to get up close – or perhaps it’s because visitors mean they get snacks like pineapple, bananas, and other tasty treats. We help prepare one of their daily meals, including the camouflaging of the dietary supplements that help with their digestion and their overall well-being in a little grass parcel.

We keep our distance and always treat the elephants with respect, and they are never forced into anything and any interaction is always on their terms.

Having had enough of us, they amble off to enjoy a splash in the nearby mud pool. I feel sad as one of the elephants, clearly rescued responsible traveller 49

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from a tourism entertainment environment, subconsciously went through the moves of scratching its head with a stick and rubbing its legs together where the restraints would have been. But I am happy that at least the rest of its life can be lived in a natural environment, without the threat of further harm and watch as the elephants walk with their mahouts at their side towards the forest.

At Elephant Hills nature park the life of these gentle giants is constantly being improved, so much so that Elephant Hills have received 100% of the core criteria in their audit result from Global Spirit, an independent animal welfare company in the UK since they first engaged with them in 2017.

“It isn’t easy to achieve 100% of minimum requirements, especially within the twoweek audit period. They are not only the first elephant camp to achieve this rating but the first worldwide animal attraction to reach 100% within the two-week audit period. Global Spirit has been impressed with Elephant Hills engagement in the whole process and their ongoing commitment to continue making positive improvements.” - Hayley Lynagh, Managing Director – Global Spirit Animals in Tourism Ltd. It’s late afternoon and we head back to Elephant Hills to freshen up for our evening’s entertainment of a dance performance by local school children and a Thai cooking demonstration before dinner. We head back to our tent to a background symphony of insects and frogs and are lulled to sleep by the glorious sounds of nature.

I wake slowly, in the distance I hear a gibbon’s territorial morning call as it echoes down the valley, the sounds of nature all around us. The sunlight gradually begins to filter through the trees, the mist hanging over the rainforestcovered mountains slowly lifts as the day begins to warm. I breathe deeply, enjoying the subtle fragrance of the surrounding forest.

After a leisurely breakfast we head to Takua Pa, on the west coast along the Andaman Sea, to explore the mysterious mangrove channels of the region’s ‘Little Amazon’.

giant banyan trees and tangle of mangrove roots. We are told that there are more than 110 different species of mangrove trees growing in the muddy sediment along these coastlines. The channels are tidal, and we see the waterline of a higher tide. Palm fronds overhang the channels, and sunlight filters through the canopy of trees. These are Nipa Palms, common on these channels and whose leaves are used for roofing on houses.

From the Saparn Pra pier we pass little riverside villages and fishing boats, our speed boat gradually slows, we enter a narrow channel and are transported into another world. An almost pre-historic world with its primeval swamp,

Our well-trained local guide keeps an eye out for wildlife like mangrove snakes, reticulated pythons, and monitor lizards. We motor slowly along; the surrounding trees are alive with the sounds of insects and birds – I wish I had

MYSTERIOUS MANGROVES

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brought my binoculars. We spot a monitor lizard up a tree, watch crabs scuttling through the mud, and see a yellow-black striped mangrove snake that lies, well camouflaged, in the foliage – it’s only with the help of our guide that I eventually find it.

A group of long-tailed macaques entertains as they forage for fruit on the banks of the channel or dip their hands into the water to retrieve a floating morsel. We are told that crabs are a favourite food source and judging by how many we had seen thus far; they were in for a treat.

I watch as young ones bounce from branch to branch, take fright then scurry back into the arms of their mom.

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Back on the main channel we pick up speed and cruise past thick impenetrable vegetation, a bird of prey flies overhead – our guide says it could be a Brahminy kite, which are common in the area. The channels widen and soon we are on what feels like a massive river. Up ahead is a classical Burmese junk with another moored on either side.

This is not only our lunch stop, but an opportunity to explore the nearby mangrove creek in a canoe.

We journey silently into a dark, dense, green world, full of natural wonders waiting to be appreciated. Little fish swim in the shallows, escaping to the safety of the mangrove roots

as we paddle by, we see mudskippers and crabs and the occasional flit of colour as a kingfisher flies by.

One could easily get lost here, and it feels as though we’ve travelled back in time to when nature was untouched by man. Soon we emerge back into the light with views of distant mangroves and banyan trees stretching to the horizon.

The current is strong, so we swim in a designated area in front of the vessel. Feeling wonderfully refreshed we sit back and relax in the company of new friends and a delightful freshly cooked lunch of crispy prawns, chicken, and sweet and sour vegetables.

On the way back to Elephant Hills we pass fields of rubber trees and small palm-oil plantations – Banana explains that these aren’t owned by big corporations, but rather by small-scale farmers who rely on this income for survival.

I ponder this and wonder what the solution is.

Ideally it would be to gradually replace these plantations with indigenous forest, but then these local communities would be without their means of income. It is a tough one, and before I come up with viable solutions we arrive back at camp.

Each experience in nature has to this point been a highlight. Could it get any better? responsible traveller 55

‘We pass towering limestone mountains (or karsts as they are sometimes called), their vertical cliffs plunging into the depths, tenacious vegetation barely hanging on...’ 56 responsible traveller

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CHEOW-LARN-LAKE Another beautiful day dawns in Khao Sok and with it the opportunity to explore Cheow-LarnLake by long-tail boat. On-route we pop into a local village market at Takhun – well, a street of markets and shops selling everything from clothes and bags to sunglasses, kitchenware, and flower garlands.

I was fascinated by the vegetable market with its mountains of greens, tubers and tomatoes, mounds of garlic and, of course, tubs of chillies, bowls of curry paste and even trays of pink ‘hundred-year’ eggs!

Nothing can prepare one for that first glimpse of Cheow-Larn-Lake – the emerald green water reflecting the blue of the sky, the verdant jungle and limestone mountains stretching as far as the eye can see.

After a quick stop at the Rajjaprabha Dam, which was constructed in the 1980s, we catch a longtail boat at the nearby Rajjaprabha pier and are soon cruising across emerald waters and passing towering rainforest covered limestone mountains - the scenery has been compared to Guilin in China and Halong Bay in Vietnam. Their lake system is extensive, it stretches over 60 km from North to South with, more than one hundred islands - and we get to see just a few of them.

The water is crystal clear, its colour ranging from translucent emerald to turquoise. We pass towering limestone mountains (or karsts as they are sometimes called), their vertical cliffs plunging into the depths, tenacious vegetation barely hanging on.

Banana tells us that in the 70’s the area was a hide-out for communists and students opposing the military dictatorship, which helped preserve the area’s unique environment as it was spared from urbanization.

Thanks to this the lake and surrounding Khao Sok National Park offers an outstanding habitat for wild elephants, the rare Asian ox, hornbills and hundreds of other tropical birds, various monkey species, amphibians, reptiles and even tigers and leopards. This combined with a myriad of other species hidden in these rainforest-covered hills make it one of the most important areas of rainforest in South East Asia.

A quiet bay surrounded by hillsides and dense jungle vegetation welcomes us.

Floating alongside its shore is the Elephant Hills Rainforest Camp. We emerge from our 58 responsible traveller

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longboat onto the floating deck, enjoy some refreshments before donning our bathing costume and heading out on the water.

The nose of our kayaks slice though the surface of the water, shattering the perfect reflections of the jungle in the process. We choose the inlet opposite, paddling slowly, listening, and looking high into the treetops, hoping to spot a spectacled langur, also known as a dusky leaf monkey – we’re being extremely optimistic as they are commonly seen in the treetops in the early mornings and late afternoons feasting on leaves and fruit. The forest is alive with birdsong, noisy cicadas, and a bunch of other unrecognisable sounds.

We spot movement in the undergrowth, I hold my breath, wondering what it could be.

A small group of macaque monkeys emerge,

completely unaware of our presence. We stay still and they come closer, eating leaves, picking berries – one even ventures within a couple of metres of us to the water’s edge. Such a privilege to see wildlife so close, and in their natural environment.

Back on deck I plunge into the silky water, it’s refreshingly cool in the heat of the day. I shriek as a fish nibbles my toes – and I have memories of the ‘fish spa’ I declined down a side street in Phuket. After a delicious Thai lunch washed down with a local Singha beer, it’s time to head back onto our longboat for the journey back.

As the floating tented camp shrinks into the distance, I cannot help wishing that we had a couple more days to enjoy sunrises and sunsets and the wealth of jungle flora and fauna in more detail. Next time… responsible traveller 61

JUNGLE ADVENTURE Our last morning has us exploring the jungle across the Sok River on foot. We grab a bamboo walking stick, fill our water bottles and head to the river. Gazing at the height of ‘our’ limestone mountain I worry about my lack of fitness, but Banana ensures us that it’s not an army survival exercise, and that there are no prizes for the fastest, and for those that are nervous about creepy crawlies, that the ‘snakes and spiders do not jump out at you’.

She is right, and after a quick transfer to the opposite side of the river by canoe we are immersed in a natural world of exotic looking plants, enormous hardwood trees with huge roots, palms, ferns, bamboo, mosses… and few not-so-scary bugs. We walk slowly, stepping

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over moss covered rocks and slippery tree stumps, and treading carefully to avoid the streams of water – it is a rainforest, after all, pausing often to learn about the ecology of the rainforest.

We stop at a rubber tree on the edge of the forest and Banana explains the intricacies of latex rubber collection. The bark is cut diagonally, just below the cut from the previous day, in a way that leaves the tree unharmed, the viscous white liquid slowly drips into either a cup or plastic packet. This is then collected by the farmer to be sold to a rubber processing plant. The local economy at work.

Vines creep up trees, the undergrowth a mishmash of branches and roots. We pose for a photo within the buttress roots of a giant

tree, its trunk reaching high above the canopy.

Indoor house plants grow wild here, with the perfect temperature and rainfall year-round, crabs relish the moist surroundings and tiny little cup shape fungi row on a weathered branch.

A rickety, yet surprisingly stable bridge leads us further into the forest, we clamour up rocks, and hang onto ropes as we descend – I admire a knot that would make a boy scout proud. We eventually emerge from the undergrowth back into the light.

Time to wash off our hiking shoes, freshen up in our tent and enjoy one last delicious Thai buffet before saying goodbye to new friends, each going our separate ways according to our next destination.

RESPONSIBLE TOURISM Besides the wonderful outdoor adventures and memorable experiences, what makes Elephant Hills so special is its commitment to responsible tourism, as is reflected by the numerous awards they have received over the years.

The most recent being the 2019 PATA Grand Award. The award recognises the initiatives they have spearheaded in raising the bar on environmental matters.

Some of these projects include the Elephant Hills Conservation Project which helps Asian elephants through the support of regional elephant hospitals and interventions; the Children’s Project - which brings muchneeded resources into local schools; the Wildlife Monitoring Project - which provides valuable information about what animals are living within Khao Sok National Park; as well as the new CO2 Offset Project - - which was created in order to reduce the carbon footprint made by long-haul travel.

The Elephant Hills Rainforest Camp received the 2018 Responsible Thailand Award for the best eco-lodge or hotel in recognition of our commitment to ecological responsibility and our passion for raising the bar in eco-tourism.

In addition to reducing their carbon footprint by harnessing both solar and wind power to create the electricity required, Rainforest Camp employs a unique waste management system to avoid polluting their jungle. They also have an ongoing commitment to removing single use plastics.

Additionally they help to combat deforestation through the planting of trees - more than 6000 last year, thereby ensuring that the animals which call Thailand home have a stable and increasing habitat. •

www.elephanthills.com www.thailandsa.co.za

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RESPONSIBLE TOURISM takes centre stage in South Africa OPINION PIECE - Wahida Parker Managing Director: Table Mountain Aerial Cableway Company

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T

he global travel and tourism industry has contributed significantly towards global economic growth over the years. This all changed when the outbreak of Covid-19 brought the world to a standstill and the tourism market to its knees – as one of the worst affected of all major economic sectors.

The global travel and tourism industry has contributed significantly towards global economic growth over the years. This all changed when the outbreak of Covid-19 brought the world to a standstill and the tourism market to its knees – as one of the worst affected of all major economic sectors.

stringent recovery support measures and safety protocols for the planned re-opening of operations, including the launch of a hiker safety service in July. There is ongoing communication to staff, suppliers and visitors focusing on health and safety, along with reinforcing our commitment to social and environmental sustainability.

As the world takes steps to recover, it will be necessary for the South African tourism sector to empower and build local tourism, as well as to ensure that the pillars of sustainable travel and innovative recovery measures are in place.

Throughout the national lockdown period, we have been engaging the relevant industry bodies to ensure that we meet the necessary health and safety standards as well as implement the measures that will protect our staff and visitors ahead of the re-opening of the cableway.

For some time now, the awareness of responsible travel has been increasing. The current crisis has forced us towards adopting a more accountable, sustainable way of travelling that minimises carbon emissions, protects the environment, instils good hygiene practice, focuses on visitor safety and maximises the contribution to local economies.

Since 1929, the Table Mountain Aerial Cableway Company (TMACC) has safely transported visitors over 700 meters along its iconic cableways to the lofty peak of this sacred symbolic site, deeply emblematic of South Africa, her people, her history, and her flora and fauna.

The level of stewardship with which TMACC has nurtured the mountain is in full compliance with international ISO health and safety, and environmental management standards, for which it has garnered numerous accolades over the years.

We continue to build a reputation that is focused on best practice - ultimately ensuring that our visitors enjoy a world-class experience. As a responsible operator, it is important for us to keep a careful approach to operations, specifically in the social and physical environments that are the backbone of our establishment.

In many ways the coronavirus pandemic has exposed the fragile scaffolding that holds modern human society together. As the tourism sector is gradually allowed to reopen, we are faced with the tremendous responsibility of strengthening the long-term durability of our operations in this now tenuous environment.

During the lockdown period, we developed

We are considering new ways of operating that will amplify our safety precaution efforts, such as the online purchasing of tickets, which will provide a contactless and cashless service for visitors wishing to experience the cableway.

It is important that the intrinsic symbiosis between tourism and conservation is recognised.

In an effort to protect the mountain, TMACC formed a partnership with SANParks. Through this we aim at improving the safety and security of tourists and hikers on the mountain.

We believe that our path toward continued financial prosperity must always be underpinned by social and environmental justice. The tourism industry contributes to carbon emissions that affect the natural environment, but the income it generates also affords conservationists the resources they need to effectively protect precious and sensitive ecosystem areas like Table Mountain, which would not otherwise be possible.

TMACC was awarded the African Responsible Tourism Award in 2019, which recognised our efforts as a responsible tourism operator to maximise the positive and minimise the negative impacts of tourism. We achieved this through implementing effective means of processes, operations and communication to encourage responsible behaviour by our staff and our visitors.

In a post Covid-19 world, consumers will be more conscious of their footprint on the environment. Our mission is to keep this natural wonder accessible to all who wish to responsible traveller 65

experience it, while also taking every available step to nurture its precious habitats, so that its splendor will continue to be an inspiration for many generations to come.

As a leader in the tourism industry, we realise that now more than ever, we need to increase our collaborative efforts to establish partnerships with local businesses to help support the local economy. This approach includes the introduction of more local suppliers, manufacturers and other service providers into our macro environment to create sustainable communities.

We celebrate the rich tapestry of people, cultures and voices that constitute our organisation. Over the years, TMACC has consistently applied its philosophy of improvement – putting in more than what we take out. Each staff member is empowered through knowledge sharing and training initiatives. Furthermore, we continue to grant extensive bursaries to our employees to acquire tertiary qualifications, allowing them to up-skill along their chosen career paths.

It is time to bring about change within this dynamic sector. This can be achieved whilst still protecting the livelihoods of those employed in the industry, all while continuing to create sustainable environments for tourists and employees respectively.

The tourism sector has always held a fair amount of power and influence across many sectors, and as they say with great power comes great responsibility. The challenging times that we face as an industry has presented us with plenty of opportunity for innovation that will ultimately improve the travel experience for many of us.

TABLE MOUNTAIN Clearing the clutter of a national icon Table Mountain stands as one of the proudest icons of South Africa, with the cable way transporting over one million locals and tourists to its summit every year. An unfortunate consequence linked to masses of people visiting the mountain, is the amount of waste that comes with it - in the form of plastic bottles, food packaging, paper tickets and more. This can deal a devastating blow to the 1460 species of plants living here, as well as the multitude of fauna who call this beautiful craggy mass home.

“As proud South Africans, we need to come together and put in the necessary work required to reduce the amount of waste on Table Moun66 responsible traveller

tain, in order to safeguard our country’s pride and heritage,” says Wahida Parker, Managing Director of Table Mountain Aerial Cableway Company (TMACC).

It’s a hefty task, but they’ve proven their eco-abilities before.

TMACC was recognised for ‘Best Resource Management in Waste’ at the 2019 African Responsible Tourism Awards, by adhering to the United Nations Principles on Responsible Tourism. Their current waste plan has reduced the amount of waste on the site by 40% and that figure is still on the rise.

Currently, this historic landscape recycles approximately 55% of the waste produced by its visitors.

By the year 2021, Table Mountain Aerial Cableway plans to expand that to 80%.

“We take this issue very seriously and will continue to work together on creating the best possible methods to deal with waste disposal. We are certain we can reach our goal to recycle 80% of all waste on Table Mountain within the next two years,” explains Parker.

The Cableway’s current recycling initiatives include allocating more recycling bins at both the Upper and Lower stations, ensuring all beverage and food outlets use compostable cutlery components, and fitting special tanks to the cable cars in order to transport wastewater down to the lower system, where it is drained into a municipal sewer system.

“To safeguard the future of our environment, we will need to work together to make sure Table Mountain is kept green and clean,” says Parker.

This refers to everyone’s responsibility in the conservation of ecology and biodiversity, the preservation of water, and awareness of what creates a healthy environment.

“Our city can boast being recognised as one of the most beautiful locations in the world, along with offering incredible experiences to every tourist visiting Cape Town. Our role as ambassadors is to ensure anyone who walks along the summit of the mountain is left with a feeling of wonder and delight, and respect for efforts that are made to protect our mountain,” Parker concludes.

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Nature’s way... at Mhondoro Safari Lodge

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deep roar that filled the void between us and the concealed riverbed and I quivered as it reverberated through my whole being‌ or perhaps it was the excitement and anticipation?

We waited patiently, but he chose not to emerge, so we opted to head off and leave him in peace. He continued to roar intermittently in the distance while we enjoyed sundowners beneath the last rays of the setting sun.

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I am at the luxurious 5-star Mhondoro Safari Lodge & Villa, in the 35,000-hectare Welgevonden Game Reserve in Limpopo, a mere 2h45-minute drive from Johannesburg.

Its location within the magnificent Waterberg Mountain range ensures breath-taking scenery amid rock strewn mountains, pristine water courses and diverse vegetation. Being home to the Big 5, including a large well-protected white rhino population and a ‘resident’ herd of elephant that visits the waterhole at the lodge on a regular basis, but tend to prefer a drink from the natural, salt-water swimming pool.

There’s even a #poolellie selfie spot – how’s that for ellies getting into the social media groove!

Meals times are a treat at Dutch-owned Mhondoro, with beautifully presented cuisine that is true to its roots - African chic with an edgy European influence. The lunches are light and the local South African wine well chilled, the view across the shimmering pool to the waterhole beyond a delight. A few zebras quench their thirst and a couple of warthog ferret around in the dirt.

Binoculars in hand and camera at the ready, we head out for an afternoon game drive. A dazzle of zebra watches us nonchalantly, a lone wildebeest in their midst. We stop in a clearing and appreciate the results of Welgevonden’s renowned anti-poaching unit – a security success story that has resulted in the reserve being a safe space for the endangered white rhino. Quite a feat on a continent ravaged by the scourge of poaching. We watch as they haul their bulk effortlessly, their crinkled folded skin, mud caked, and their ears a delicatessen for red-billed oxpeckers.

A green pigeon perches on dead branch and European bee eaters feast on bugs in the air, flitting effortlessly between branch and sky.

A rufous-naped lark entertains us in song. We watch a Coqui francolin creep stealthily across the road, its legs tucked down to resemble a tortoise, a survival skill developed to make it less attractive to the raptors we see soaring overhead. One can but marvel at the intricacies of nature.

A woodland kingfisher calls in the distance as we seek out the male lion that another vehicle briefly spotted. He is well concealed in the riverine forest and we must be satisfied with the occasional roar.

Back at the lodge we are treated to a traditional South African feast within the walls of the boma and beneath a canopy of stars. The oxtail stew is 70 responsible traveller

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‘We stop in a clearing and appreciate the results of Welgevonden’s renowned anti-poaching unit - a security success story that has resulted in the reserve being a safe space for trhe endangered white rhino...’ 72 responsible traveller

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delicious and the red wine flows freely. Just the recipe for a good night’s sleep.

Mhondoro sleeps only 24 guests, with accommodation including two child-friendly Family suites, a romantic Honeymoon suite, and a 2-bedroom Executive Suite – which I share with a colleague. We each have a spacious private bedroom with en-suite bathroom, complete with indoor and outdoor showers plus a bathtub just waiting to be appreciated.

I love that the bathroom amenities are Rain natural products as they’re locally made and free from chemicals, and they are provided in bulk dispensers on the wall. The comfy couches in our lounge invite me to chill with a book, but it’s the heat of the day and the private deck and plunge pool wins out.

Those looking for the ultimate in luxury and privacy can opt for the Mhondoro Villa which features a magnificent master suite and two additional bedrooms and comes with a private gym, yoga or massage room and a heated swimming pool. All this comes with a gameviewing safari vehicle with personal guide, and the services of a chef, butler, and housekeeping staff – and most certainly defines luxury!

Finding lions was clearly on our mind as we headed out on our game drive the next morning and we were soon rewarded with an indistinct footprint on the sandy road. ‘It could be the female’ we are told… and our search begins.

Our guide scans the road ahead, pausing occasionally to check the spoor – but it’s hyena, from the night before. Then suddenly the trail becomes evident, not just one lion, but two!

‘It’s the sub-adults’, and we follow as they veer into the grass then emerge further on. We hear a kudu bark in alarm, and head in that direction.

Nothing, so we head back in the direction of where we spotted them last.

Movement on our right reveals them walking determinedly through the bush, they veer back on to the road in front of us and continue, then pause a while. Ever alert. Their keen focus on something ahead. I see rhino grazing and think ‘surely not’. Then I spot the warthogs…

Hunting as a team the one lion approaches head-on whilst the other veers right, past the rhino, into the bush. The warthog scatter and the chase is on - it happens so fast that we miss the final moment.

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Up ahead on the road we see the hapless warthog in the lion’s grip. It is horrible to watch and we hear it squeal relentlessly as it tries to break free. Eventually yielding to the death grip around its throat and providing a well-earned meal. These young lions have done well, a little clumsy and not as skilled as their mum would have been, but that’s all part of their learning process.

We move on in silence, quite sobered by the harsh reality of the bush. A lone ostrich pecks at the gravel alongside the road, it too has lost a mate plus his brood of five chicks. There are many hazards in the bush, all part of the food chain, nature’s way.

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We too need our sustenance and have breakfast in the bush – freshly prepared pancakes with bubbly on the side. Our tummies full and our mood restored we head back to the lodge for a well-earned relax at the spa.

I spend some time with Fritz Breytenbach, Mhondoro’s General Manager, to learn about their eco-initiatives. He tells me that in line with the vision of the Dutch owners, Frank and Myriam Vogel to further reduce the carbon footprint of the lodge, various eco-friendly initiatives have been put in place. I already knew each guest receives a steel water bottle, easily refilled from the glass decanters in the main lodge. Fritz tells me that their water supply comes from an underground borehole, is filtered, and purified and then supplied to all taps throughout the lodge.

I also knew that check-in is done digitally to reduce the use of paper, but what I didn’t know was that they use re-usable leather wallets for gratuities which saves about 2000 envelopes per year. I get to peek through a back door and see all the recycling bins - Mhondoro recycles all glass, paper and plastics used at the lodge, and has an agreement with Nespresso to recycle used coffee pods and grinds. Even the grey water gets recycled – after collection it goes through a water filtration system and then used for irrigation.

Most impressive though is their major solar power installation, an array of 620 solar panels and a massive battery storage facility. Fritz proudly tells me that this is the largest solar operation at a lodge in Limpopo province and has successfully taken the lodge off the grid to be self-sufficient in terms of all its electricity requirements. Even with air-conditioners running during the hot summer months.

Other recent additions to the Mhondoro footprint includes the purchasing of two farms measuring about 2 400 hectares adjoining Welgevonden Game Reserve. These tracks of derelict farmland are being rehabilitated and over time will become protected wilderness areas. A section of one of the farms is being utilized to grow fresh produce for use at the lodge. It includes a chicken coop for farm fresh eggs and a greenhouse where herbs and vegetables are grown, with surplus produce donated to the surrounding communities.

That afternoon we head out in a different direction in search of the elusive elephants – they weren’t coming to us so we would search for them instead. And find, we did. A small 78 responsible traveller

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herd scattered amongst the boulders of a rocky koppie, a cantankerous looking old bull that thankfully strode past us without further thought and another, more relaxed and content, feasting on the abundant vegetation.

Add more rhino to the mix, a large herd of eland, more zebra and wildebeest, and even a couple of jackals. Our night drive back was interrupted by a stroppy young bull on our left and further up a large grey roadblock that in the dark, with a ravine on one side and thick bush on the other, our guide was unwilling to chance.

A numerous point turn and a major detour later had us ticking buffalo off our list too – albeit a brief glimpse of rather scraggly old dagga boy before he disappeared. Leopard and the other nocturnals, hyena, aardvark and aardwolf, eluded us, but that’s the nature of the bush.

Our last morning had us heading out from the lodge on a short bush walk in preference to a drive. We walk quietly and slowly, a group of five rhino appear to be asleep near the waterhole, one stirs, we stop. I hold my breath. We move on slowly. The zebras aren’t as comfortable with us on foot as they were with our vehicle and they watch us warily, a wildebeest snorts with concern. We see spoor where a cheetah has crossed the path the night before.

We learn that the larvae of the marble emperor moth feeds on the leaves of the wild 82 responsible traveller

syringa (Burkea Africana), that the fruit of the stamvrug (Englerophytum magalismontanum) is a popular veld fruit and a welcome thirst quencher when walking in the mountains and that the soft leaves of the velvet bushwillow (Combretum mole) make useful toilet paper when caught unprepared. We watch a toktokkie beetle as it randomly taps its abdomen on the ground and inspect the elaborate burrow of a burrowing scorpion alongside the path.

This is what I love about a walk in the bush, the quiet – except for the sounds of nature, the fact that all the senses kick in, and that one gets up close with the little creepy crawlies and plants.

There’s time for one last breakfast, and hopefully a bit more action at the waterhole.

Packed and ready to go I head down the steps and along the 65m reinforced concrete tunnel that connects the main lodge to the underground game viewing hide. I’m rewarded with a herd of zebra. They’re a little wary at first but slowly venture closer to drink.

What a wonderful way to end my time at Mhondoro, up close, but not quite personal, just as it should be. •

www.mhondoro.com

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Dubai Desert

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Q&A

with South African Greg Simkims, Conservation Manager, Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve How long have you worked at the DDCR? I have worked at the DDCR since it was formed in 2003. I was also involved in putting together the proposal for the DDCR creation.

What did you do before?

I worked at the Al Maha Desert Resort which is located within the DDCR in Dubai from 1999 onwards, first as a field guide and then as the Reserve Officer for the initial protected area of 27km² which is now part of the DDCR.

What are some of the unique opportunities of working in a desert environment and the Middle East?

Deserts are harsh environments for most living organisms and the species that survive out here are uniquely adapted to thrive in this environment, being able to observe and study these species has been a great opportunity. Working in the Middle East has given me opportunities to work with people from across the region and around the world and I have enjoyed learning from all different perspectives and experiences people have to conservation and protected area management.

Please may you detail some of the conservation work that the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve (DDCR) undertakes?

pics - Tessa Buhrmann

Our work is the effective management and protection of a representation of the Dubai inland desert ecosystem. In order to achieve this, we have re-introduced Arabian Oryx, Arabian gazelle, Sand gazelle and MacQueen’s bustard as well as implemented a habitat restoration programme by planting indigenous tree species. Furthermore, we conduct research and monitoring programmes on numerous species and habitats within the reserve. These include camera trap responsible traveller 85

programmes, movement studies (GPS tracking collars), extensive vegetation studies and arthropod studies.

Please may you detail fully some of the developments being pursued at the DDCR towards furthering environmental protection?

The DDCR has recently embarked on a plan to “re-wild� the desert; the initial phase will actually be the reduction of our ungulate population. Over the past 20 years our programme to re-introduce, in particular, Arabian Oryx and establish a viable breeding population has been very successful.

We have now become victims of our own success and the population has moved beyond the carrying capacity of the reserve.

We have therefore decided to move some animals off the reserve into enclosures where we will separate the sexes to prevent further breeding. The animals will then be made available to other protected areas within the region. The reduction of ungulates will result in an overall improvement of the health of the eco-system and in the long run enable us to look at the re-introduction of other species that are locally extinct.

The other development that is underway is a Visitor Centre for the DDCR; this will greatly enhance our public awareness work. In particular, it will enable us to engage with the schools in Dubai heighten the environmental education of the youth in the UAE.

How are these progressing?

We are in the process of building the enclosures and will hopefully move the first animals off the DDCR this year. The visitor centre is in the planning and development phase.

How do these developments align with 2020 being the year commemorating 50 years of supporting initiatives aimed towards environmental protection?

Our work in conserving the fauna and flora of the UAE desert and in protecting nearly 5% of Dubai’s land area perfectly aligns with the initiatives aimed at environmental connects.

What role do you play in pursuing these developments?

As the Conservation Manager of the DDCR, I am involved in all aspects of these developments.

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How does your South African background and experience assist in this regard?

Having grown up in South Africa and having experience in the field of agriculture and game farms. I believe I had an advantage in understanding the importance of environmental protection and good stewardship of the land, while at the same time being aware that these practices had to be built on a foundation of sustainability.

Moreover, what is the extent of collaboration between the two countries with regard to environmental protection and conservation work?

I am not aware of any formal collaboration between the 2 countries but for many years South African Parks have attended annual regional workshops in Sharjah, leading sessions on Protected Area management.

As the DDCR, we are currently in discussions with Pretoria University on possible research collaborations.

What are the lessons and best practices the rest of the world can learn from the DDCR? The model we have developed as a reserve has had a primary goal of conservation supported by sustainable tourism operations that are strictly controlled so as not to

impact the primary goal. This has allowed the DDCR to make good strides in protecting the environment while still being financially sustainable.

How are these being communicated and expanded globally?

The communication of our model has primarily focused on the West Asia Middle East region and mainly in the form of presentation at regional meetings and workshops. As an IUCN member, we also involved with regional and global efforts.

www.ddcr.org responsible traveller 87

iSimangaliso

words - Tessa Buhrmann pics - Tessa Buhrmann & others, as credited

T

he iSimangaliso Wetland Park is a World Heritage site that stretches all the way from Kosi Bay in the north, to beyond St Lucia in the south to include Maphelane Nature Reserve. iSimangaliso is high on the ‘must visit’ list of many travellers and the quaint town of St Lucia serves as something of a tourist hub for the park and has grown substantially from the sleepy little fishing village, perched below a canopy of trees, to the feeder town that is geared for domestic and international eco-tourism today.

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Wetland Park

image credit - Debbie Cooper

When you say ‘iSimangaliso Wetland Park’, most people think of Cape Vidal and the Eastern Shores – popular because it offers beach-andbush in one destination. But what many don’t realise is that across the length and breadth of this World Heritage Site a veritable wonderland of beach and bush destinations await.

What makes iSimangaliso so special is the incredible diversity of habitats which include coral

reefs, long sandy beaches, coastal dunes, lake systems, extensive wetlands as well as grasslands and bushveld.

This is one of the few destinations where a visitor can go diving in the ocean before breakfast, watch whales, hippos and crocodiles before lunch, and see the Big 5 in a game reserve on a late afternoon game drive.

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Eastern Shores:

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The coastal Eastern Shores side of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park is famed for its wetlands, water birds, crocodiles and marine species.

The Eastern Shores section of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park (Greater St Lucia Wetland Park - declared South Africa’s first World Heritage Site in 1999), has fabulous facilities and great hides – such as the Mfazana bird hide overlooking the Mfazana pan and the Mfabeni viewing deck (near Cape Vidal) amongst others – this region has more than 420 bird species recorded.

Look out for Samango monkeys at Cape Vidal, as this the southern limit to their distribution in South Africa – and beware, they are just as pesky as vervet monkeys, so don’t leave your care open or food unattended.

Enjoy a picnic in the presence of hippos at Lake Bhangazi on the Grassland Loop, or a sheltered braai at the shady picnic site at Mission Rocks (away from the beach but you can still hear and feel the ocean breeze). During the summer months when the Park gates close at 7pm one can catch a sunset and head back before closure without excessive rushing - Catalina Bay viewing deck on the Eastern Shores is the best.

Or walk one of several trails in the Nature Park section of the Eastern Shores (both these are free of entry fees). Enjoy a beach walk from Mission Rocks southwards towards Perrier’s Rocks – about 3km to reach the three gorgeous half-moon bays where one can snorkel and then picnic. Or head north from Mission Rocks towards Bat Cave and take a dip in shallow rock pools – it is important to do this at low tide! The beach at Cape Vidal is lovely to walk, swim and snorkel.

The Eastern Shores offers great game viewing opportunities, whether from one of the hides or driving one of the many loop roads in your own vehicle. Look out for elephant, rhino, buffalo, leopard, hyena, zebra, waterbuck, wildebeest as well as a number of smaller game species. Birding during the summer months is popular with a number of migrant specials to the area.

Should you prefer to not use your own vehicle there are several tour operators in St Lucia that offer guided game drives – and is the only way to experience the park at night.

Access to the Eastern Shores is through the little town of St Lucia. responsible traveller 91

Western Shores: The Western Shores is appreciated for its spectacular views over the St Lucia Estuary and its drier palmveld vegetation with its diverse mammal species and abundance of raptors.

Receiving only half of the rainfall of its eastern neighbour, the Western Shores offers visitors a completely different experience, with giraffes in abundance, great herds of waterbuck and plenty of buffalo.

The easiest option is to turn off at the the Dukuduku Gate, on the road just before one enters St Lucia, or alternatively, the Park can be accessed from the major N2 highway via the 92 responsible traveller

Charters Creek off-ramp. If you’re pressed for time, enter at the one and exit at the other.

The Western Shores is a great example of successful land rehabilitation - these open palmveld grasslands were once a forestry plantation, which by nature is a severely degraded eco-system.

In the short space of a decade, iSimangaliso has removed thousands of hectares of alien trees and rehabilitated the natural landscape – the amazing thing is that no new vegetation was planted, nature did what it does best... grow, with dormant seeds sprouting forth.

The reintroduction of historically occurring game including elephant, serval, tsessebe, giraffe, nyala, white and black rhino, buffalo, zebra, red and grey duiker, and wildebeest. And the numerous pans and wetlands offer visitors the opportunity of seeing hippos, crocodiles, many species of buck and an abundance of bird life.

The Park was opened to visitors in 2013 so the roads are in good condition and the ablution blocks new.

There are several loops and lookout points and a great picnic site with towering trees alive with birdsong. The uMthoma Aerial Boardwalk overlooks Lake St Lucia’s narrows and has views

as far as Cape Vidal in the north and Maphelane in the south. It is also a great place to sit quietly with the binoculars as the surrounding trees and hillside are alive with birds – especially in the early morning.

Charters Creek, historically a favourite with fishermen, is a great spot to take a breather with expansive views across the lake. It is located on the Nhlozi Peninsula that juts into Lake St Lucia.

Still a firm favourite with anglers (the appropriate fishing licences are required) and bird-watchers due to its lakeside setting providing great opportunities to view forest birds as well as a variety of aquatic species. responsible traveller 93

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Sodwana Bay:

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Diving:

Sodwana Bay, one of the top ten dive destinations in the world, boasts coral reefs containing over 1200 species of fish as well as a variety of underwater seascapes and marine flora and fauna.

Reef diving in Sodwana Bay provides divers from around the world with an amazing opportunity to explore the World Heritage Site’s unmarred coral reefs, home to a grand diversity of sea life and is ideal for both shark diving and reef diving all year round.

The best conditions are from April through September. Visibility in Sodwana’s waters can vary between 10 and 40 meters, averaging around 15m. Water temperatures are mild measuring between 24 and 28ºC and requiring 3mm or 5mm wetsuits.

There is much to explore on Sodwana Bay’s reefs, which are mostly located at around 18m, sometimes less. Amongst the hard corals, caves, pinnacles and blowholes, divers will come across an abundance of sea creatures and life forms.

Over 1200 fish species grace the waters of Sodwana Bay as well as sharks, bottle-nosed dolphins, turtles (leatherback, loggerhead, hawksbill and green), humpback and southern right whales and whale sharks. Shark species you are likely to meet in the bay’s crystal waters are the bull/Zambezi shark, thresher shark, copper shark, ragged-tooth shark, dusky shark, tiger shark, black tip shark and hammerhead.

Other interesting fish life you can observe are reef fish, pelagic fish, moray eels, manta rays, spotted eagle rays and ribbon tail skates. Sodwana Bay’s sea conditions are perfect for night dives when the coral polyps emerge and invertebrates can be seen scuttling across the reefs.

Experiencing Sodwana Bay’s scuba diving will leave you with no doubts as to why it is considered South Africa’s diving mecca. But if you aren’t keen on scuba diving, don’t fret, you can opt for an ocean snorkelling safari over one of the reefs to get the feel of the experience – it might even encourage you to try scuba.

www.coraldivers.co.za image credit - iSimangaliso Wetland Park responsible traveller 97

Turtle tours: There is nothing more exciting than the possibility of seeing Loggerhead and Leatherback turtles coming ashore to lay their eggs. Witness the extreme effort and determination as they haul their bulk across the shore to lay their eggs in carefully prepared nests - they make their way home having swum the length of the continent in a return journey to the beach where they were born, often laying their eggs within meters of where they emerged as a hatchling many years previously.

During the summer months, generally from November to end February, you can have the privilege of a turtle tracking experience in the company a turtle expert to help monitor the turtles’ behaviour and nesting numbers.

www.ufuduturtletours.co.za

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Kosi Bay:

The Kosi Bay Nature Reserve is an unspoilt area surrounding the rare and beautiful Kosi Bay lake system and is a pristine tropical paradise of crystal clear water, marshland, swamp and coastal forests that is home to about 250 species of bird.

There are number of rare bird species in the Kosi system, many of which are at the most southerly limits of their distribution and are not encountered elsewhere in South Africa.

Amongst the rare water/estuary associated species are Flufftail, Whitebacked Night Heron and the Crab Plover. The raffia forests are also home to the Palmnut Vulture a Red Data species, and the only fruit-eating vulture in the world.

Kosi Bay supports a great variety of fish and other aquatic fauna due to the different 100 responsible traveller

physical characteristics of the lakes. A characteristic sight on the estuary is the fish kraals - the rural people in the area use traditional fishing methods to harvest the numerous fish species in the estuary. Fish kraals or traps, which have been passed down from father to son, are spread throughout the estuary, providing an important source of protein to the local people.

Hippo and crocodile bask in and around the lakes and the reserve provides a haven for a variety of rare fish, flora and fauna. The Kosi lake system consists of four large lakes and a series of inter-connecting channels that eventually drain via a sandy estuary into the Indian Ocean. The system is characterised by grassland, interspersed with lakes, pans, streams, marshes and swamps.

Head to the wooden jetty at Kosi Bay’s Lake Nhlange (Third Lake) where, on a good day, you are rewarded with a full 360 degrees of brilliance, or go snorkelling at Kosi Mouth.

Grab your snorkelling gear, pack a picnic basket, get a permit and head out in 4x4 only – necessary because the sand is soft and the tyres choose their own path. Pause on the ridge to appreciate the spectacular views of the sea, lakes and channels interconnecting seamlessly in a wonderful swirl of colour that change with the ebb and flow of the tides.

The traditional Kosi fish traps look like the stitches of an intricate tapestry, displaying a random kind of symmetry. We make our way down and on closer inspection see a couple of Tsonga fishermen, one fishing the traditional way, another with fly fishing rod in hand.

The fish traps (or kraals as they’re sometimes referred to) are passed down from father to son.

The water in the Kosi Mouth is crystal clear and wonderfully warm, with an amazing variety of aquatic life – devil fire fish, angel fish, shoals of bright little fish and even a moray eel, it’s no wonder this is known as ‘the aquarium’.

Other activities on offer include seasonal turtle tracking at Bhanga Neck. It is an incredible sight watching a giant leatherback or loggerhead turtle heave her way up the shore to lay her eggs in the sand. Check with your accommodation supplier for operator details.

Read about a previous visit to Kosi Forest Lodge HERE responsible traveller 101

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uMkhuze Game Reserve: responsible traveller 103

The uMkhuze Game Reserve section of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park was established in 1912 and is one of South Africa’s oldest game parks and is so named after the uMkhuze River, which curves along the reserve’s northern and eastern borders.

This 40,000ha game reserve consists of amazing landscapes of acacia savannah, rivers, pans, and riverine forest and is spectacular for both birding and game-viewing, and is home to at least 420 bird species, the Big 5 – lion, elephant, rhino, leopard and buffalo – as well as cheetah and wild dog.

The game-viewing hides at kuMasinga and kuMahlala pans offer wonderful game viewing as herds of animals gather to drink at these waterholes. The surrounding trees are often alive with bird which is an added drawcard for birders and photographers alike. The beautiful iNsumo Pan is host to hippo, Nile crocodiles and a variety of water birds – the pan supports one of only two significant pink-backed pelican breeding colonies in southern Africa.

There is a picnic site as well as two birdviewing hides located on the water’s edge at the iNsumo Pan where one might see African jacana walk nimbly across water lilies, openbilled stork poised for the catch or fish eagles swoop over the pans to snatch their prey.

The Fig Forest Aerial Boardwalk in uMkhuze Game Reserve offers a guided walk (to protect against elephants, lions, buffalo and other potentially dangerous game) through a magical landscape of soaring, ancient sycamore figs and other riverine forest species - it is said to be the only unspoilt, indigenous fig forest of its kind in Africa. The forest enchants with its rich bird life and massive trees – some of which have a circumference of 12m and are upwards of 400 years old.

They bear fruit all year round, providing an ever-ready banquet hall for bird and animal species. Enjoy being immersed in nature, surrounded by birdsong and the magnificence of the forest.

The easiest way of getting there from the N2 is through the eMshopi Gate on the eastern side of the reserve or if you’re coming from the R22 (which heads north from Hluhluwe towards Kosi Bay) head left (from the Hluhluwe side) and right (from the Mbazwana side) onto the D820. Continue along this road for a further 14km and then turn left at the sign to uMkhuze and enter at the Ophansi Gate.

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For some variety, consider entering at one and then exiting at the other.

Entry fees vary, but should you be in possession of a KZN Wildlife Rhino Card (approximately R500 for an annual membership for a couple) all you would need to pay is the R5 per person community levy.

Check the iSimangaliso website for more details.

www.isimangaliso.com

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St Lucia:

Not only is this quaint little town the gateway to the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, it also offers visitors a wealth of activities and experiences all of its own, including beach, bush and ocean.

The town lies in the heart of unspoilt beauty and life here is rather laid back and peaceful, if the monkeys, little duikers and occasional hippos that roam the streets freely are anything to go by. It is the doorway to a world of fresh-water pans, lakes, mangrove and reed swamps, marshy grasslands, coastal dunes and an abundance of wildlife. - and offers a myriad of things to do...

Beach walks: The beaches in the region lend themselves to early morning walks where one can walk for miles, often without seeing another soul.

Horse riding on the beach or in the bush: From a leisurely stroll to an exhilarating canter, there can be no greater thrill than horse riding on the beach – feel the wind in your hair and the sea spray on your face as you head up the beach along the water’s edge. Or try game viewing on horseback in the iSimangaliso Wetland Park and hopefully get to see zebra, wildebeest, bushbuck, warthog, duiker and impala. Or perhaps even a combination of the two!

www.bhangazihorsesafaris.com 106 responsible traveller

image credit - Debbie Cooper

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Whale watching and ocean safaris: Whale watching is popular between the months of May and November, when humpback whales make their way north from their Antarctic feeding grounds, heading for the sea channels between Mozambique and Madagascar. Here they give birth to their calves, only leaving when the babies have developed enough thick blubber to withstand the icy temperatures down south.

An encounter with a whale is an experience not to be forgotten, with Humpback Whales seen throughout the season - whale watching in South Africa has taken on a whole new meaning with KwaZulu Natal now the hub of the Humpback Whale.

The Advantage Charter is the only legal boat based whale watching permit holder within this World Heritage Site, and in the safe hands of experienced and renowned skippers you will be taken through the waves in search of the gigantic Humpback Whale. You may be fortunate to witness this 40-ton acrobat breaching a mere 50 meters away from the boat or maybe just swimming alongside.

A variety of pelagic bird life, dolphins, sea turtles in season, shark, marlin, whale shark and other interesting marine mammals and cetacean may also be seen. The tour duration is approximately two hours with 30 minutes on either side to get you to-and from the launch site. This in itself is an adventure, as you meet at a central booking office, from where you will be taken to the launch site with a 4 x 4 truck onto the beach.

www.advantagetours.co.za

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image credit - Heritage Tours & Safaris

Estuary boat cruises: Another fun activity is a cruise up and down the St Lucia estuary where you’ll almost certainly spot hippos and crocodiles, admire the mangrove trees, see iridescent malachite kingfishers hawking for tiny tilapia fish, and almost certainly hear the wild call of an African fish eagle. iSimangaliso boasts one of the most significant populations of Nile crocodile in Southern Africa and in a recent aerial count, the density of basking crocodiles in one section was recorded as the equivalent of 99 individuals per kilometre! There are in excess of 1000 adult crocodiles living wild in the Park, predominantly in the Lake St Lucia estuarine system.

The Zulu name for hippo is Imvubu which means ‘river horse’. This thick-skinned, hairless and barrelshaped mammal grazes on water grass in rivers and lakes and on the lush grass on riverbanks and plains, much like the equestrian version. But unlike a horse the hippo is a dangerous animal killing an estimated 500 people per year in Africa. You are sure to see a number of hippos in the water, and if you’re lucky, maybe out of the water grazing.

www.advantagetours.co.za www.heritagetoursandsafaris.com 110 responsible traveller

Birding in the Gwala Gwala Forest: A walk along the iGwalaGwala Forest trail with a local birding guide (ask for Themba Birding) is a most rewarding birding experience and will have you adding numerous ticks to your birding list.

Meander through the the filtered light where the coastal forest is alive with birdsong and in addition to Livingstone’s Turaco, Narina Trogan and perhaps even a blue-mantled crested flycatcher and Woodward’s batis, you might even spot a duiker, bushbuck or even a wandering hippo.

www.stluciabirding.com

Bird images credit - Jason Buhrmann

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Enjoy views of the wetlands & St Lucia Estuary...

Enjoy a gentle stroll along the boardwalk surrounded by mangroves and reeds and a plethora of bird sounds. Just don’t attempt this in the evening or at night as you may be surprised by a resident hippo or crocodile!

or sunset on the jetty: A popular activity with both residents and visitors is watching the sunset from Sunset Jetty (which is free and in walking distance from town) 112 responsible traveller

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GreenCape

Celebrating a Decade of Green Economy Growth Since the official launch on 5 November 2010, GreenCape has leveraged its funding partnerships and industry networks to facilitate R41 billion worth of investment into the South African green economy, supporting the creation of 19 000 direct green jobs.

“When I first launched GreenCape as a non-profit green economy sector development agency in 2010, I envisaged impact on a scale that would make a significant difference to the green economy of this region,” said Premier Alan Winde.

“Over the past 10 years, GreenCape has delivered this impact. These green economy projects have driven green economic growth in the Western Cape and South Africa. While much has been achieved over the last 10 years, all of us need to redouble our efforts and focus on delivering an economic recovery that will deliver jobs and dignity for our people,” he added.

Originally established to facilitate the achievement of the target and growth of the Western Cape’s renewable energy sector, GreenCape’s operations has expanded to include a national footprint with a broader green economy focus, including water, sustainable agriculture, circular economy and green finance. The GreenCape team has grown from an initial staff of 3 in 2010, to a team of 45 in 2020. As a cluster organisation, the GreenCape’s business membership has grown to more than 2 200 businesses.

“Investment aimed at growing the green economy ensures the sustainability of future economic opportunities. It also creates jobs now, which remains a strategic priority especially at this time when economic recovery is a critical focus,” said Western Cape Minister of Finance and Economic Opportunities, David Maynier. “Over the past 10 years, GreenCape has implemented multiple keystone projects that have unlocked barriers to green economy 114 responsible traveller

growth, importantly with projects that focus on building energy security and resource resilience in the Western Cape,” he added.

Initially funded by the Western Cape Department of Economic Development and Tourism, GreenCape’s funding partnerships have diversified to include the City of Cape Town’s Department of Enterprise Development and Investment as a core funder, as well as multiple national government departments, DFIs, international funders, foundations and the private sector.

“The green economy is a key sector in Cape Town and has enormous potential to contribute to a thriving, sustainable business ecosystem that creates jobs,” said Alderman James Vos, Mayoral Committee Member for Economic Opportunities and Asset Management. “We have identified the green economy as a high growth sector that will be able to contribute to sustainable jobs in the near future. I am particularly proud of our partnership with GreenCape and the returns on investment and the development of the green economy we have seen,” he added.

Removing barriers to green economic growth “Lowering carbon emissions is at the heart of the global climate change narrative, but a green economy will mean so much more for the people of South Africa,” said Mike Mulcahy, CEO of GreenCape. “A green economy is an economy with decent jobs underpinned by sustainable (efficient, clean and profitable) infrastructure solutions that will create and sustain jobs and well-being for this generation and the generations to come. This is what we are most excited about – to celebrate the milestone and continued opportunities to collaborate with our funders and partners towards this goal,” he added.

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A few of the highlights include: The Western Cape Industrial Symbiosis Programme (WISP): The Western Cape Industrial Symbiosis Programme (WISP) is a multiple award-winning free facilitation service to businesses, which is now funded by the City of Cape Town. Our WISP facilitators provide our business members with dedicated time and technical expertise, connecting companies with unused or residual resources such as materials, energy, water, assets, logistics and expertise.

The cumulative impact of WISP over the last six years has been the following: • •

•

•

104 900 tonnes of waste diverted from landfill; 309 200 fossil GHG emissions saved (equivalent to the electrical usage of 39 800 households in SA); Over R120 million generated in financial benefits (additional revenue, cost savings and private investments); 69 permanent jobs in member companies, as well as 25 temporary positions, and 218

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economy-wide jobs in supply chains have been created.

Small Scale Embedded Generation (SSEG) municipal framework: GreenCape supported local municipalities to build capacity related to small scale embedded generation (SSEG), whilst creating policy certainty for investors. Changes in municipal regulations governing SSEG system installations have improved market conditions for investors, equipment suppliers, project developers and technical advisors.

Project management for the designation of the Atlantis Special Economic Zone: GreenCape was the appointed Atlantis SEZ project management unit from 2013 to September 2019, responsible for coordinating the successful application for designation.

Drought business support: GreenCape’s drought support team offered free support to businesses in the province, and continues to do so through ongoing funding from the provincial government. The goal is to help

businesses reduce their water use, so they can sustain business operations and build resilience.

Nearly 400 businesses received direct assistance from GreenCape during just over 15-month period (June 2017 – August 2018), drawing also on expertise and support from the CoCT and WCG officials where required. GreenCape also develops various materials to support businesses including, industry briefs, best practice case studies, an online drought support webpage and annual Market Intelligence Reports.

The Green Outcomes Fund: Through a partnership officially signed on 31 January 2020 between National Treasury’s Jobs Fund and GreenCape, the Green Outcomes Fund (GOF) provides outcomes-based matched (concessional) funding to local investment funds (our Catalytic Finance Partners) to support investments into local SMMEs that make a demonstrable contribution to South Africa’s green economy, as well as job and enterprise creation in priority impact areas.

Skills: The Atlantis skills development programme aims to empower residents and young people of Atlantis with valuable skills, so that they are able to access potential employment opportunities created by the growth of the Atlantis Special Economic Zone.

The programme was developed in consultation with various stakeholders in Atlantis, including current investors in the ASEZ. An audit of local skills has helped GreenCape map current and projected skills demand, which has closely guides the ongoing skills work in Atlantis.

Annually published Market Intelligence Reports: GreenCape’s annual Market Intelligence Reports (MIRs), developed in partnership with the Western Cape Government’s Department of Economic Development and Tourism, highlight the investment opportunities in key sectors of the green economy.

GreenCape is currently the secretariat for the South African Plastics Pact, as well as the responsible traveller 117

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coordinator of the development of the South African Renewable Energy Masterplan.

Recently, and formal memorandum of understanding has been signed with the Mpumalanga Department of Economic Development and Tourism to collaborate on using a cluster approach to build a green economy in Mpumalanga, commencing from October 2020.

Global relevance International Cleantech Network: GreenCape is the only African member of the International Cleantech Network. Through this global network of leading global cleantech clusters, there are various opportunities to connect local green businesses to global market opportunities. For example, GreenCape is the South African contact point to assist local cleantech companies to apply to join the Solar Impulse Foundation 1 000 Efficient Solutions Label portfolio.

Green Recovery, to build back better: Over the past few challenging months, to support a green economic recovery, GreenCape has been working with various partners during lockdown on: • Green SMME recovery (safeguarding jobs and supporting business recovery through mobilising direct international relief funding and collaborating nationally and internationally on policy levers for Green SMME recovery) • International trade competitiveness (supporting investment promotion and highlighting South Africa as the green economy hub of Africa) • Sustainable Infrastructure Opportunity development (supporting public and private infrastructure resilience across energy, water and the circular economy) • Alternative service delivery (supporting service delivery resilience and promoting citizen empowerment) • Green finance (mapping and facilitating access to financing for some green projects and green business in South Africa).

• Green skills development (targeted capacity building in the public and private sector).

The hopeful impact of a focussed effort to keep pursuing the vision of a thriving prosperous Africa mobilised by the green economy.

Solutions implementation, guided by strong values , is the key to ensure green economic growth - to move with agility from survive to adapt to thrive.

words & pics - supplied responsible traveller 119

THE IMPORTANCE OF ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY IN TOURISM AND HOSPITALITY OPINION - Brett Hendricks , General Manager, Thebe Tourism Group 120 responsible traveller

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ith sustainability being one of the most critical issues facing our world today, a green revolution within the tourism and hospitality industry is vital to ensuring the growth of these sectors into the future. By Brett Hendricks of the Thebe Tourism Group. It’s really quite simple: a tourism product with an environmental conscience just makes good business sense.

Extrapolate this idea further: a country that has a tourism and hospitality sector that both cares about the sustainability of the environment and honours its places of natural beauty and wonder is going to lead the pack to attract international and local visitors alike to its destinations.

Consider the example of Rwanda – a country once plagued by the ravages of its past. Within the African continent, Rwanda’s overall strategy to focus on responsible high-end ecotourism rather than mass tourism has helped the country enormously to conquer the negative perceptions of that country left over from its thankfully long-gone history of genocide.

Flowing out of the early work done by the conservation efforts of Dian Fossey as far back as the 1960s, Rwanda today has the commitment its government made to the protection of its gorillas - and the growth of its Gorilla Tourism product that grew out of that commitment - to thank.

Since 2010, Rwanda has been considered to be one of the safest destinations in East Africa, with tourists now coming for much more than just the country’s gorillas and its wide range of wellmarketed wildlife and biodiversity options, but also the options it offers to the business tourism MICE industry.

Environmental sustainability in fact now dictates the itineraries of the majority of travellers, proving to be the consideration that appeals above all others to tourists across the board, from Gen Zers to Baby Boomers.

Numerous studies, such as those conducted by global research operations Nielsen and Cornell University’s Centre for Hospitality Research, regularly demonstrate numbers that support this. It has been estimated that 75% of Gen Z and Millennial travellers would be willing to pay extra for sustainable tourism and hospitality products, including accommodation – up from 66% back in 2015. Even Baby Boomers, the ultimate consumer generation, are demonstrating that more than 50% of them would also pay more for environmentally responsible destinations.

The studies are also revealing that economically, for operations within the hospitality sector, the cost of going green is no longer more expensive than the way these operations were run in the past. This is thanks to advances in technology related to renewable resources of energy. And of course public awareness and education of globally-savvy guests, who are becoming far more conscious, and indeed demanding, about a destination’s waste management and social responsibility objectives.

Sustainable tourism must therefore be at the heart of all hospitality and accommodation options within our own country, and for all businesses involved in the industry. From our own operations as Thebe Tourism, from Cape Point in the Western Cape to those soon to be launched within the Kruger National Park, environmental sustainability is the reason we develop where we do.

The Kruger Station food and entertainment precinct, which will also be home to the Kruger Shalati Train on a Bridge accommodation, will deploy international best practice to ensure that the venue enhances the park, adding to its overall visitor appeal but with zero impact on the park’s environment, while at the same time bringing much-needed job creation and entrepreneurial opportunities to the communities around it.

The same ethos lies behind our Chiefs Tented Camps experience, wherever these are temporarily set up in remote locations across South Africa and into Namibia. The criteria behind them is that the camps, and their occupants – to coin a phrase - touch the earth as lightly as possible, leaving behind no more than footprints.

For every single business involved in tourism and hospitality, in whatever endeavour they deliver, environmental sustainability is no longer just a catch praise to ensure one destination triumphs over another from a marketing point of view. It’s a responsibility we need to carry collectively to ensure the industry and the destinations we promote survive in the first place. responsible traveller 121

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TOURISM NEWS South Africa’s most anticipated hotel is a tribute in celebration of sustainability We all know the three R’s that are so intrinsic to the sustainability of the planet: reduce, reuse, recycle. The world is moving towards not just recycling and reusing as much as possible, but creating less waste to begin with. That said, a lot has been created in the past. So, what happens to items that have been discarded and forgotten?

Fast fashion is a diminishing trend and consumers are saying no to throwing things away and buying everything new. Instead, more and more people are taking a closer look at things and seeing how they can be revamped, revitalised, and repurposed.

Some people take an extra step and see the potential in even the oldest, dirtiest, rustiest piles of rubble. Diana Goodman, for instance, sees the beauty in the red of rust, the purpose in weathered wood, and the possibility in longneglected pieces of steel.

Diana and her husband Brian are the maintenance/technical team behind the new Kruger Shalati Train on a Bridge Hotel and Kruger Station project in the Kruger National Park. This new precinct is located at the site where guests were first welcomed to the Park when it opened in the early 1920s. Both the hotel and lifestyle precinct pay tribute to the history of the Park and the structures that were there before them.

When they arrived on site, the pair set about the task of wading through spiders, rats, bat droppings and a lot of dirt to salvage everything that they could use or repurpose. They spent their days scrubbing, sanding, polishing and bringing new life to the precinct using the materials that were there long before construction on the new project began.

“I don’t think we realised how big this project was when we took it on. It’s been a challenge. We initially spent our days lovingly cleaning thick dirt off all sorts of stuff. We clean and sort things until they’re beautiful and usable,” says Goodman.

Kruger Shalati Concession General Manager Judiet Barnes explains that the luxury train hotel, which will officially open in December, uses a lot of reclaimed items salvaged from the surrounding area and the demolition of previous structures to use as building materials, features and decor.

“From concept through to construction of the site, we always knew that we had to celebrate what was there before. The Kruger Shalati Train on a Bridge Hotel is a very special hospitality development. Not only are we using a historical 124 responsible traveller

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bridge on the old selati line over the sabie river no longer used, but our train carriages itself are recycled carriages used in the 1950’s which were scrapped years ago and converted into a luxurious hotel and positioned it on the disused Selati railway line above the Sabie river in the Kruger National Park,” shares Barnes.

“This project required a unique approach to truly respect the space and create something that would both stand out as its own entity while paying tribute to the heritage of the location.”

According to the Urban Land Institute’s (ULI) Sustainability in Hotels report, trends indicate that there is a strong push for the hotel industry to implement sustainable practices for both the business benefits and to meet growing consumer demand.

As ULI Global CEO Ed Walter says: “Embracing resource-efficient and resilient development practices is good for business as well as communities. Sustainable design is what the market wants ‒ younger and older generations 126 responsible traveller

place a high priority on green and sustainable development in how and where they live, work, and play.”

The report further states that a survey of 72 000 hotel guests found that around 33% indicated that they prefer hotels with environmental and social programmes. The number grew to 44% when looking at only guests under the age of 25, indicating that change is vital to secure the business of future guests.

Goodman believes that with far too much wastage in the world, sustainability should always be in focus: “There’s huge demand as people around the world are asking about sustainable practices and environmental impact. Especially now, while everyone is wrapped up in the pandemic, we can’t forget to keep this top of mind.”

Diana and Brian salvaged old doors (including handles and locks), wooden window frames, shelves, leadwood tree supports, railway sleepers, benches, ladders, steel roof trusses,

rusty pipes, kitchen utensils, trolleys and more, and used all of it.

“It’s endless what we’ve recycled. We love to rummage for things. We’ve found metal, wood, nuts and bolts in boxes and it’s all going to be used. Everytime I turn around, there’s something else we find to reuse,” says Goodman.

“We built a store room out of recycled fencing, for example. We’ve used old shelving in strips to prevent day visitors from seeing our warehouse. It will eventually rot, but we’ve planted creepers and shrubs that will take over in time.”

To create a usable warehouse and office space in a building that hadn’t been used for 12 years, and left to the animals and plant life of the area, the cleaning task was huge. This space is now the hub of the precinct, housing walk-in fridges and freezers, storage space and staff quarters.

Planting indigenous trees is another important aspect of reinvigorating the area. About 100 trees have been planted to create barriers and make shade. The repurposing spans outside

of the main structures as well. Slabs of railway sleepers have been used to hold lights along pathways and longer sections have been used to create steps. Pieces of rusty metal from the old pump house have also been used as striking decor among the dry grass.

More than just repurposing materials, Goodman says that extensive solar panels on site will ensure sustainability for the long-term and she is looking to help implement a recycling programme for general waste. While the project may have been daunting to begin with, she is happy that they contributed to something that is both beautiful and mindful of the planet.

Barnes concludes: “We are thrilled at how much thought and effort our project team - with Brian and Diana playing a critical role in this - have put into making Kruger Shalati Train on a Bridge a sustainable hotel in one of the world’s most popular game viewing destinations. We cannot wait to welcome visitors to our eco-conscious hotel in a couple of weeks.”

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TOURISM NEWS Angama Opens New Sole-Use Tented Camp In The Maasai Mara Angama is delighted to announce the opening of Angama Safari Camp, a light footprint, movable, sole-use tented camp accommodating up to eight guests in four ensuite tents, sited deep in the wilderness of the Maasai Mara. This distinctive camp captures the romance and adventure of the glorious Golden Age of safaris, yet with a lightness of spirit that will both surprise and delight guests.

“We have created a completely private, ‘no-rules’ experience, where the guests can enjoy the comforts of 21st century camping, but with the thrill of having nothing but canvas between you, the Maasai Mara and year round abundant wildlife right on your doorstep,” says Angama’s owner, Nicky Fitzgerald. “ Guest tents feature an extra-king length bed (or twin beds on request), a writing desk, dressing room, vanity, separate w/c and the playful addition of double bucket showers. The same team that created ngama Mara reunited to bring Angama Safari Camp to life - Jan Allan of Canvas ByDesign designing the tents, and interiors by Annemarie Meintjes.

Jan Allan explains the concept behind the unusual tents: “These tents are unique in appearance and this look has generally been created through a playful and unusual roof shape. Below the sweeping fly sheet sits a landscape-orientated inner tent. While this is often done in more permanent tented camps, other mobile operators tend to choose a more traditional portrait-orientated tent for their mobile camps.”

“The tents are designed for maximum crossventilation which will make them cooler than others. Furthermore, these tents have a four-layer roof system that will help to keep them cool,” adds Allan.

The tents speak to the design of Angama Safari Camp’s sister lodge, Angama Mara, not only through their orientation, but also through the attention to detail within the tents. The roof linings are of the same fabric as the lodge tents. The flaps are handsomely finished using leather straps with brass fittings. The wooden tent poles are made from polished timber with solid brass footplates.

An accent of the Angama blue and red will come through the stitching details on the leather straps. The angled poles around the tent that support the outer roof will also have brass footplates and are clad in laced up leather.

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elements from Angama Mara, explains Annemarie Meintjes. “The look is a combination of respect for the past and the vision to make it relevant to the present.” This translates into use of natural fibres, rural weaving, gold, black and white, quilting, and Maasai red design features.

With the camp being movable, there is the new complexity that as much as possible needed to be flat-packable, ready to be loaded into Angama Safari Camp’s 16-ton truck converted to spec, affectionately named Big Bertha.

With a dedicated Angama Safari Camp team, including a vehicle and guide, each day’s programme is up entirely up the guests with extraordinary wildlife experiences right on their doorstep.

Aside from the mega herds of the Great Migration, the Mara is home to resident prides of lion, cheetah, leopard, large elephant herds, buffalo and abundant plains game. Those after a full-day safari can depart from the Safari Camp as early as 06h00 and returning after sundown at 19h30, enjoying breakfast and lunch picnic-style under a fig tree somewhere in the middle of nowhere.

“Most of all, we are looking forward to bringing guests the same charming Kenyan service that continues to delight guests at Angama Mara – after all, the magic is not in the stuff, it’s in the place and of course the people,” concludes Fitzgerald.

www.angama.com

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TOURISM NEWS Babanango Game Reserve unveils its latest addition - Matatane Camp At a time when tourism development is at a virtual standstill across the world as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic, a pioneering game reserve in the beautiful rolling hills of South Africa’s northern KwaZulu-Natal province is about to open its third accommodation offering this year.

For Babanango Game Reserve, 2020 has seen it develop and grow to being a fully-fledged safari destination with two luxury lodges - Babanango Valley Lodge and Babanango Zulu Rock Lodge - already open and receiving guests from across South Africa. This month sees the unveiling of Matatane Camp - a rustic, back-to-basics camp aimed firmly at the local market that will further expand the reserve’s tourism appeal.

Babanango is an ongoing joint development between African Habitat Conservancy, private land owners and members of the local Emcakwini, KwaNgono and Esibongweni communities who own a large portion of the 22,000ha reserve, just 50km from the town of Vryheid in the heart of the province’s Zululand region.

Matatane Camp is located on a 130ha fenced-off section of the reserve and has been purposely created to provide accommodation for guests on either a fully catered or self-catering basis.

It’s the perfect place for extended families and groups of friends to gather together for landmark celebrations like weddings, anniversaries, birthdays and reunions.

It also provides a base for Babanango’s range of exciting adventure activities that immerse guests into the magnificent natural surroundings, allowing them to explore in relative safety in this fenced-off area of what will soon become a Big Five reserve.

Activities on offer include walking along selfguided trails and mountain biking, with horse trails also in the pipeline, all without the risk of encountering dangerous game.

Consisting of a main camp area with seven comfortable en-suite twin-bed units and a communal self-catering kitchen and braai area, as well as lots of space for relaxation and unwinding and two satellite tented camps each with their own facilities, Matatane Camp is an excellent choice for corporate groups wanting to indulge in team-building or even product launches. A small “spaza” shop provides essentials for selfcatering guests and the camp is fully serviced by a dedicated team of staff.

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Matatane Camp is also the host of Babanango Outdoor Education, which welcomes school and university groups from across South Africa each year, offering a comprehensive curriculum of nature-based educational activities and a base from which to conduct valuable research.

Offering a down-to-earth and relaxed bush experience surrounded by the spectacular landscapes of Babanango Game Reserve while at the same time offering great value for money,

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Matatane Camp enjoys breathtaking views of the White Umfolozi River and is itself home to a number of wildlife species, from zebra, giraffe and impala to genet, porcupine and bush pigs. It’s also the starting point for tours of the region that take in the fascinating history and culture of this region.

Babanango Game Reserve’s commitment to expansion and its goal of creating a world-class

sustainable tourism destination that underpins its conservation programme has seen it achieve great things in 2020. The good news is that 2021 will see even more developments taking place on both the conservation and tourism fronts, with a new luxury tented camp in the pipeline and the reintroduction of more iconic wildlife species.

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TOURISM NEWS Jack’s Camp – an icon is reborn. Opening January 2021 The iconic Jack’s Camp in the Makgadikgadi, Botswana has been reimagined and rebuilt and will reopen with a luxurious new look in January 2021 to celebrate the camp’s 25th anniversary.

The brand-new Jack’s Camp pays homage to the property’s enduring and much loved 1940s campaign style. The rebuild was overseen by owner and founder, Ralph Bousfield, whose father pioneered safaris into the Makgadikgadi over half a century ago. Bousfield explains his vision for the new camp, “Jack’s has always been a whimsical place, somewhere unconventional where the natural world surprises and delights.

The new Jack’s has built on this legacy, and when it reopens in 2021 it will offer an Alice in Wonderland like oasis in the midst of the ethereal Makgadikgadi”.

each one a cabinet of extraordinary curiosities ranging from stone tools to fossils, all collected and curated by Bousfield himself. Landscapeorientated to allow panoramic views of the salt pans ahead, seven twin tents feature two queen size beds and two double tents feature extralength king beds. Each tent can accommodate a child on a third day bed in the living room.

The new look Jack’s features nine spacious safari tents, more than double the size of the former tents, with an interior floor area of 130m2. The tents will retain the same traditional dark green exterior canvas and iconic interior lining.

The furniture and the softs at Jack’s have always been hand-produced by a dedicated team of craftsmen and it is this attention to detail that means the camp’s style has remained inimitable for a quarter of a century. New textiles come from India and Morocco and cushions and bedspreads are all sewn by hand at Ralph’s family home. The guest tents will feature both indoor and outdoor showers and an overhead cooling system for the bed area to ensure a comfortable night’s sleep. Private plunge pools (half outdoor, half indoor) are the perfect place to cool off in the afternoon and the spacious deck is ideal for an al fresco massage.

Furnished with antiques that have been passed down through generations of the Bousfield family, the new larger guest tents will each have their own miniature natural history museum,

The new, larger mess tent of Jack’s Camp, which is a Natural History Museum in Botswana, will retain much of its original look and feel. Framed Peter Beard pictures sit alongside original posters

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TOURISM NEWS from French taxidermist, Deyrolle, which hang side by side with Bousfield family photos. The iconic stuffed aardvark has retained pride of place alongside the cabinets of curiosities. The mess tent is a series of flowing spaces; the library, tea tent and drinks tent all offer spaces where guests can be together or find a quiet spot on their own.

The iconic pool pavilion has been reimagined for 2021 and now includes a sundeck. The Jack’s Camp shop, which has always been a treasure trove of exotic jewellery and beautiful handmade Bushmen items, has been renovated and restocked.

Jack’s Camp is a pioneer. The camp trailblazed safaris in the harsh but beautiful Makgadikgadi region of Botswana 25 years ago and is still the only operator for almost 100 miles. The safari experience at Jack’s is unique. At first sight the lunar-like salt pans appear devoid of life, but in the hands of the knowledgeable camp guides the story of the Makgadikgadi begins to unfold.

Whether it’s quad biking out into the remnants of the super lake, hunting for stone tools in the crusty salt flats or seeing the world through the eyes of the Bushmen, this is a safari where the focus is on learning, appreciating and being

humbled by a vast landscape. All activities at Jack’s Camp are included in the rate, including a complimentary horse-ride and massage.

The new Jack’s Camp will employ the very latest ‘’clean and green’’ solar technology. The entire camp runs on solar power, including the new air-conditioning units (‘Evening Breeze’) in the guest tents. 1.5% of all revenue generated by Natural Selection’s camps goes back to local conservation projects.

Thanks to the partnership between Jack’s Camp, Natural Selection, the local community and Round River Conservation, Africa’s second largest zebra migration, which was almost destroyed by veterinary fences in the 1960s, has returned with thousands of ungulates returning to centuries-old migration paths. Natural Selection co-founder Dave van Smeerdijk says: ‘’We are thrilled to be partnering with Jack’s to take both their conservation and guest experience to the next level. Jack’s is an iconic property and one we are very proud to be working with’’.

Rates at Jack’s Camp will start at US$ 1450 per person per night when the property reopens in January 2021.

www.naturalselection.travel

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CONSERVATION & COMMUNITY NEWS Eco charcoal boosts SA’s water security The global outcry against the use of braai charcoal produced from rainforest trees, which leads to devastating forest degradation primarily in South American and African countries, is boosting the demand and production of eco-friendly charcoal certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC), made from ideally suited hardwood invasive alien plant species in southern Africa.

Invasive alien plant (IAP) species cover at least 10 million hectares of land in South Africa and are responsible for taking an estimated 6% of the country’s fresh water annually – about 3.3 million m3 – according to the Department of Environment, Forestry and Fisheries (DEFF).

Removing invasive species has been a DEFF Working for Water programme since 1995 at a current cost of about R1.8bn per year, but the programme needs added impetus to deliver significant value to all stakeholders, from local communities to the country as a whole.

The impetus is happening. On the hills of the Eastern Cape, about 30km from Matatiele, a consortium of seven small businesses are well on their way to building an eco-friendly charcoal production business, for the first time on tribal communal land in South Africa. The SMMEs are

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Emabhaceni Development & Nature Solutions and Sivuyise Trading Enterprise from Colana; Mosia Heso Trading Enterprise and Mtumtum Enterprise from Madlangala; Mandilam from Mvenyane, Morumotsho Charcoal Production from Nkasela, Eco-char from Hebron, and Mrhulashe Trading Enterprise from Mngquna in the KwaBhaca area.

The FSC-certified charcoal project has a robust contingent of organisations behind it, managing, developing, monitoring and supporting it every step of the way. These include Avocado Vision’s Green Business Value Chain (CBVC) as project managers; the globally renowned FSC; CMO Group Scheme, which works with FSC in an auditing capacity; Environmental and Rural Solutions (ERS); Conservation South Africa, Lima Rural Development Foundation, and DEFF. In September, the first restaurant quality eco-friendly charcoal was produced in two of a planned bank of 25 kilns that will be set up in the area by the partnership of SMMEs and organisations. The wood for the charcoal is invasive biomass from the vast swathes of black and silver wattle trees that are devastating the area’s water table and ecosystem.

CONSERVATION & COMMUNITY NEWS Jules Newton, GBVC Programme Director, says, “Reaching the charcoal-testing stage of the process was a proud and exhilarating experience for all the project partners, and probably most particularly for the entrepreneurs. Every process is eco-responsible, from the way the invasive biomass is removed and delivered to the production site by newly trained teams of workers, to the kilns and production process.

The investment of time and energy, finances, and learning, and the commitment to succeed by every participant has been huge throughout this journey – and producing A-grade charcoal in our pilot phase has been the encouragement we need as we tackle the next phases.”

Newton believes that a key factor contributing to the success of the project is the intense training, development and support that the SMMEs are given by all the partners throughout the processes, and more particularly by Avocado Vision.

“The SMMEs are all brought into a virtual incubator by Avocado Vision, which supports the businesses throughout their growth, making sure that foundational business basics are in place, and that they’re empowered to succeed in a sustainable way.

“We know there is enough invasive biomass to ensure continued charcoal production for probably decades to come, but these small businesses are gaining skills that will enable them to branch out into other business ventures should the removal and value-adding of invasive biomass no longer be viable for them,” Newton adds.

GBVC is working with a total of 121 entrepreneurs and with partners, under the auspices of the DEFF, in several locations around the country, training the SMMEs in financial and business basics, in effective removal of invasive biomass in their communities, and in identifying and starting businesses that add value to the IAP wood – charcoal, timber, furniture, artwork, pulp, paper, firewood, mining and construction poles. The goal is to drive a strong invasive biomass economy by boosting demand for it right through the value chain.

The next steps for Team Matatiele Charcoal are already being taken. The remaining kilns are in the process of being installed or manufactured, training is continuing, and markets – local and international – for top grade charcoal that would satisfy the most discerning braai-master’s every demand are actively being sought.

www.avovision.co.za Atang’s charcoal highlights Entrepreneur Atang Ramabele (26), owner of Morumotsho Charcoal Production, is one of the seven SMMEs working together on the Matatiele Charcoal project.

He says, “The progress we’ve made is very valuable – we deliver quality work because of our access to excellent training and resources, which also means we understand the impact that the project is having on the environment. Working with teams, we clear the wattle according to environmental standards to ensure regrowth of the grasslands. We dry the biomass and then burn it in a kiln to produce restaurant-grade charcoal.”

Ramabele says the training by Avocado Vision gave the SMMEs a firm foundation in business management. “A highlight for me is now being able to identify and assess the feasibility of opportunities for my business in my area.” Looking ahead, he anticipates the expansion of the Matatiele charcoal business into new global markets, including Europe. responsible traveller 135

CONSERVATION & COMMUNITY NEWS Chef Zacharia Maseko - Home is where the heart is for Wild Coast Sun’s new executive chef As a young boy watching his mother prepare family meals, Zacharia Maseko could never have imagined that one day he would be appointed Executive Chef at Sun International’s Wild Coast Sun resort.

Maseko’s appointment on 01 October was the culmination of a culinary journey which started as a buffet builder at the same four-star beachside resort 34 years ago.

With opportunities slim on the ground, the matriculant, who was born in a township near Port Edward just a few kilometres from Wild Coast Sun and grew up in Mount Frere in the Eastern Cape, was soon hired on a full time basis.

“I liked cooking as a child but until I arrived at the Wild Coast Sun, I didn’t think I could make a career out of it,” Maseko said. “I used to cook with my mother, things like steam bread and samp and beans, but culturally, men did not belong in the kitchen.”

He soon turned this idea on its head as his career took shape. “In 1988 I became a kitchen handler as management could see I had a passion for the kitchen.”

In 1994, Sun International sponsored his threeyear Catering Management Diploma at the Durban Institute of Technology (Now Durban University of Technology). Since graduating, Maseko has worked his way around the kitchen, first as demi chef and then as the relief chef, learning the ropes of the full kitchen and reporting to a sous chef, before becoming one himself. His last role was executive sous chef, a position he held for eight years.

Along with Chico’s, the main restaurant and Driftwood, the ala carte restaurant, Maseko is also in charge of food in banqueting, Prive, and main casino floor as well as the golf club.

Asked if he felt nervous about taking control of a brigade of more than 30 staff, Maseko said he had held the reins while the previous incumbent was on leave, or working at another property. “I have always been fully accountable and I’ve been developed for this position for the past five years. I am ready.”

In the past few years, Maseko believes there has been an increased focus on sustainability and healthy eating, saying more people are looking for plant based foods instead of meat and are keen to know more about the source of their meal, such as how it was grown or reared and transported.

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“I am passionate about sustainability and seasonality. The freshest, highest quality inseason ingredients elevate dishes from ordinary to world class.” And when it comes to fresh, the kitchens at the Wild Coast Sun are spoiled for choice with an expansive on-site garden that delivers fresh vegetables and herbs right to their chopping blocks. Surplus vegetables are also sent to local soup kitchens which provide meals for about 900 school children.

Chef Maseko’s favourite meal to cook for himself is a stir fry. “It is an easy dish to make, the ingredients are fresh and it can be assembled quickly.”

“Lamb chops is one of our guests’ favourite dishes - many of our clients are from the Indian community so they enjoy any lamb dish as well as our curries.

One ingredient which he cannot cook without, is onion. “You need one when you make salad, when you cook your hot food, when you make a sauce. I am not a pastry chef person; I am a hot kitchen chef.”

While his recent promotion is a feather in his cap, Maseko recalls his proudest moment as being when he was a sous chef, and, along with his team, was called in for a standing ovation after a Valentine’s Day function with several VIP guests.

He is inspired by the Victorian chef Auguste Escoffier, a Frenchman who left a legacy of culinary writings and recipes that are indispensable to modern cooks. “Today, Jamie Olivier is engaging and fascinates me.”

Closer to home, he credits three chefs he has worked with who have had a profound influence on him and have contributed to his growth Johan Szabo, Gary Hastings and Chris Reedoy.

“They loved what they were doing and were passionate about it.”

But despite his global culinary interests, for this Wild Coast homeboy home is still best.

Although he has worked at Sun City, Maseko says he remains at Wild Coast Sun because the South Coast of KwaZulu-Natal is where his home, his heart and his family are. He has been married to Nelsie for the past 25 years and the couple have four kids.

www.suninternational.com

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CONSERVATION & COMMUNITY NEWS SA Conservation Documentary wins top award at International Film Festival South African conservation documentary, The Edge of Existence, by Black Bean Productions, has scooped a top award at the 10th annual Wildlife Conservation Film Festival (WCFF), which took place from 1 October to 8 November 2020.

Out of 150 documentaries at the festival, The Edge of Existence – which took three years to film, with the crew sometimes spending days or even weeks trying to get a single shot - won the award for, “Best Human and Nature Film”.

Directed by James Suter and Charlie Luckock of Black Bean Productions, with Banovich Studios as an Executive Producer and the Grumeti Fund as a Conservation Partner and Executive Producer, this unique wildlife documentary highlights the complex issues around human-wildlife conflict in Africa (specifically focusing on Tanzania’s, Western Corridor in the Serengeti) and delves into an issue that is quickly becoming a global crisis.

“We are delighted by the international recognition the film has been receiving. Being selected as the winner for the Best Human and Nature film for the 2020 Wildlife Conservation Film Festival, is an incredible achievement for us,” says James Suter.

The film has premiered at three other international film festivals in 2020 - the Freeland Film Festival, the Garden Route International Film Festival (GRIFF) and the Ireland Wildlife Film Festival. The film has also been selected for screening at a number of other festivals locally and internationally that will take place over the next few months.

“Prior to the making of this ground-breaking documentary the story of human-wildlife conflict, especially in areas like East Africa, was largely untold,” says James Suter. “Few people really understand the concept of human-wildlife conflict. It is a topic that only recently started to be discussed.”

“One of the key things that inspired us to create this film is that we would so often hear of incidences of human-wildlife conflict and see these types of issues covered in the media in a way that was quite one-sided. We wanted to create a film that portrayed both sides of the picture – also telling the stories of the people living on the frontline of human-wildlife conflict and highlighting the scale and severity of the incidences that occur – the film offers a completely new way of looking at this.”

The documentary, with breathtaking cinematography including sweeping aerial 138 responsible traveller

shots of vast herds of game on the plains of Tanzania, and set against stark images of life in the neighboring villages, tells the important story of how communities and conservation are inextricably interlinked. “Conservation used to be about keeping communities out of wilderness areas and protecting the wildlife within. However, conservationists now understand that the buyin of communities is essential - if you want conservation to work, community members need to also benefit from conservation, e.g. through job creation and education” says Suter.

“Conservation is not sustainable unless we find workable solutions to human-wildlife conflict that can support the communities affected, and no solution will be feasible unless it takes both humans and wildlife into account.”

The Edge of Existence calls on viewers to consider the communities living in close proximity to wildlife and to understand the daily challenges they face, while looking at how to protect wildlife that is impacted by communities encroaching on wilderness areas.

Suter explains that local communities living in the vicinity of wildlife areas suffer significant losses as local farmers’ crops are decimated by raiding elephants, and livestock is killed by predators.

“The situation results in a loss of income and even starvation, and in this context, it is not surprising to see poaching on the increase, reinforced by local and international demand for bush meat.”

“To get communities to support conservation initiatives we have to educate them to understand their connection to the natural world and understand that these wilderness areas are part of their natural heritage. Communities need to see a direct benefit from protected areas. There is often a belief that wilderness areas and national parks are for tourists only, but this isn’t true at all. If local communities can see the value of these protected areas and of protecting wildlife, by ensuring that conservation efforts include local communities, I believe we can promote the peaceful co-existence of people and wildlife.”

“I am immensely proud of this award and the way our team came together and worked tirelessly for years to complete a film that portrays such an important message in a way that is digestible for an audience that may not necessarily understand this complex situation which is reaching crisis level.”

“We hope the documentary will help uncover solutions whilst connecting communities,

CONSERVATION & COMMUNITY NEWS

conservation authorities, and government not just in Africa, but around the world. What happens after the documentary is hugely important to us as a team – we want to see positive steps are taken that promote the co-existence of humans

and wildlife. If we can educate people around the world through this film, then we will have achieved our goal,� concludes Suter.

www.blackbeanproductions.com responsible traveller 139

CONSERVATION & COMMUNITY NEWS Beetle-busting research leads the way at Vergelegen wine estate Many of South Africa’s most beautiful and ancient trees and forests are in deadly danger of being destroyed by an invasive beetle. The good news, however, is that research at one of the country’s leading wine farms, renowned for its agricultural and horticultural research since 1700, could help defeat this dreaded pest.

The polyphagous shot hole borer (PSHB) beetle comes from Southeast Asia and was first discovered in South Africa in 2017. The female beetle infests trees with a fungus they feed on this fungus, not the wood and the fungus eventually kills the trees.

It has already caused devastation in gardens, parks and urban forests. Durban, Pietermaritzburg, Hartbeesfontein, Bloemfontein, Ekhurhuleni, Jankempdorp, Sandton and Sedgefield are among the hardest hit areas.

The beetle has been recorded in all nine provinces except Limpopo and the list of infected trees is ever-expanding. Some of the most susceptible trees are American sweetgum, Japanese maple, Chinese maple, box elder and English oak.

Alarmingly, the PSHB beetle is also penetrating into the indigenous forests of Durban, Knysna and George.

On a more positive note, scientists have the beetle in their sights. One is Heather Nependa from the Department of Conservation Ecology and Entomology in the Faculty of AgriScience at Stellenbosch University. She is undertaking research on the pest for her doctoral thesis.

Nependa’s research site is 320-year-old Vergelegen wine estate in Somerset West, which has pioneered agricultural and horticultural testing since Cape Governor Willem Adriaan van der Stel established it as a model farm in 1700.

Van der Stel experimented with grape vine and tree varieties, even investigating mulberry trees for silk production.

More recently, since 1999 with Pretoria University, Vergelegen has led research into leaf-roll virus, which is specific to grape vines and affects most vineyards in the country. Vergelegen also completed the largest privately funded alien vegetation clearing project in the country, in 2018, and has been the site of numerous master’s and doctoral theses on topics ranging from grasses and dragonflies to bontebok and eland.

Says Vergelegen Risk and Commercial Manager Leslie Naidoo: “We are the custodians of a wonderful tree collection, including five Camphor trees planted by van der Stel, and an English oak 140 responsible traveller

believed to be the oldest oak tree in South Africa.

Unfortunately, several of our tree species are potential PSHB hosts. These include, but are not limited to, London plane, English oak, sweet gum, willow and maple trees.”

On the other hand this suits scientists, says Nependa, as the history and biosphere of Vergelegen are “a microcosm of urban and peri-urban areas in South Africa. This allows for extensive research on the beetle and its potential impact on the country.”

Naidoo recalls that the PSHB Research Network first confirmed the beetle on several tree species in Somerset West on 8 April 2019. The estate put strict measures in place to avoid contamination. These ranged from banning the transport of firewood into the estate, to installing monitoring traps and repellent on the farm border.

Hot summer days boosted beetle infestation in the town, however, and, to their horror, Vergelegen management found that the beetle had penetrated their defences in February this year.

Nependa says the main aims and objectives of her research include: • Establishing a monitoring and early detection scheme: Learning more about the life history of the beetle, how it spreads, and the symptoms of damage on different tree species. This will shed light on how fast the infestation is spreading.

• Unravelling the PSHB-fungus-tree relationship: The aim is to find out more about the life

CONSERVATION & COMMUNITY NEWS

• •

•

history of the PSHB and its associated fungus and how this affects trees.

Testing the effectiveness of lures and repellents.

Testing potential pesticides: Two types of pesticides (insecticides and fungicides) will be tested and their side-effects and appropriateness thoroughly reviewed.

Collecting and analysing data in the field for a PSHB management plan geared to South African conditions.

Assisted by two Conservation Ecology and Entomology fourth year students, Nependa has already produced an inventory of 1010 Vergelegen trees.

This data, including measurements of the diameter of each tree and its reproductive state, has been submitted to the i-treetools.org website.

This site has free software developed in the United States for assessing and managing forests and community trees and peer review feedback will be welcome.

Visitors to the estate can also spot two types of trap used to monitor and collect the PSHB. The simplest design uses one and two litre plastic bottles, fitted with a chemical lure, tied to 1.5m steel rods. There are 50, possibly keeping the beetles away from the trees.

The second type of trap has been 3D-printed and is secured over holes made by the beetles on the trees. Steel mesh is placed over each opening to stop them from escaping. All traps are inspected every two weeks and contents are delivered to the University for Inspection and identification.

“An important next step is to map out invasion pathways and determine what drives dispersal,” says Nependa. Temperature logging buttons will be placed at each of the sampling sites, to help track how climate changes affect beetle dispersal. This data will also be important for lab experiments on beetle and fungus biology and physiology.

“Despite an established and expanding host list, the PSHB still seems to select hosts indiscriminately,” says Nependa. “This will involve growing the fungus in the lab and experimenting with plant nutrients and plant volatiles to determine the criteria required for successful fungus establishment. This information will also help further model the impact and potential distribution of the PSHB. This will ideally be modelled for the greater Somerset West area to include more hosts.”

Says Leslie Naidoo: “Vergelegen has a longstanding relationship with Stellenbosch University and we are delighted to host Heather. Like many South Africans, we are passionate about our trees and are eager to learn more about this pest and how we can stop it in its tracks.”

The project will run until June 2022. Findings will be documented and made available to interested parties via the Stellenbosch University’s Department of Conservation Ecology and Entomology.

Source: Progress report on PSHB research at Vergelegen Wine Estate, Heather UJ Nependa, with associated references.

www.vergelegen.co.za

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CONSERVATION & COMMUNITY NEWS Winner of the Greatest Maasai Mara Photographer of the Year announced The Angama Foundation is proud to announce Nairobi-based photographer Paolo Torchio as the 2020 Greatest Maasai Mara Photographer of the Year, for his image“Blessing Rain”, of a female leopard posing on a dead tree in final raysof sun during the start of a powerful downpour.

Paolo becomes the third winner of the competition, winning a five-night safari for two at Angama Mara and US$10,000 in cash. Paolo faced strong competition from the nine other finalists, including Americans Yaron Schmid and Vicki Jauron, South African Graham Wood and Kenyan Rihaz Sidi.

Commenting on his win, Paulo said: “In a year that has been so difficult for everyone working in the photographic tourism industry, this is the most wonderful news. It is my hope that my picture will inspire peopleto come and visit this fantastic place – the Maasai Mara.”

Acclaimed wildlife photographers, Art Wolfe, Federico Veronesi, Michael Poliza, Nisha Purushothaman and Adam Bannister judged the entries. Discussing the photograph, Federico said: “Two elements make this image really stand out for me: the backlight and the rain. The atmosphere these two elements create are surreal, almost like a fairytale. It is fitting that in a year as wet as 2020 has been in the Mara that the winning image features a big cat in the rain.”

The Greatest Maasai Mara Photographer of the Year competition encourages the creation and submission of beautiful imagery to showcase the Maasai Mara as a year-round wildlife destination,

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raising the profile of wildlife photographers and supporting conservation initiatives in the process.

Despite a difficult year where tourism into the Mara almost disappeared overnight due to the pandemic, the competition celebrated a record number of entries. Running from January through October 2020, thousands of submissions were received with photographers from 43 countries and guests from 79 camps entering, testament to the Mara’s status as the preeminent destination for photographic safaris on the continent.

Each entry includes a donation to one of the competition’s boots-onthe-ground conservation partners active in the Maasai Mara, and these donations were further bolstered by the launch of an online auction platform, which sells images from the competition’s participating photographers. As a result, close to US$30,000 was raised for the competition’s conservation partners, and shared between the Anne K. Taylor Fund, the Maa Trust, the Mara Elephant Project, the Mara Conservancy and the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust.

A unique element amongst wildlife photography competitions, Paolo’s guide Anthony Kiplunghurt from Elewana Sand River was also recognised for his role in supporting Paolo, and won a return ticket to London to watch a Premier League football match, along with Kiarie Mathaga who guided finalist Suhaib Alvi.

For more information about The Greatest Maasai Mara, to enter the competition or buy a print, please visit:

www. thegreatestmaasaimara.com

CONSERVATION & COMMUNITY NEWS Samara Private Game Reserve employs nature’s smallest guards Did you know that bees are a widely used weapon in the conservation arsenal? In fact, these underestimated little miracle workers are being deployed at Samara Private Game Reserve, where they are playing a vital role in protecting the key tree species.

How exactly does a bee stop, say, a hungry elephant from tearing down a tree? It’s simple, really: many animal species are known to avoid beehives because of the danger of being stung.

This concept has been put to the test many times, with great success: in Kenya, for example, Dr Lucy King erected a 400m beehive fence in Gazini, the first of its kind. That was in 2016, and as a result, the community has been kept safe from elephant invasions.

It’s a strange concept, because a bee’s sting can’t do much to an elephant’s thick hide, but if those stings go into sensitive parts like the elephant’s trunk, eyes and mouth – well, that’s a different story, especially if there are hundreds of bees in a swarm; a fact that scientists are using to their advantage.

At Samara, the practice is going to be used to protect the reserve’s iconic tree species. For example, the first two beehives will be planted at Wolwekloof, where they protect two beautiful witgat (Boscia Oleiodes) trees. One of these

trees is a magnificent specimen, estimated to be around 800 years old.

The Karoo isn’t naturally a high honey producing region, although bees in the area usually collect nectar from species like acacia and spekboom.

Samara expects swarms to number between 33 000 and 40 000 bees in each swarm, with a population comprising the queen, the male drones which are responsible for breeding, and the workers, who guard the hive. As each hive grows too big, a new queen will emerge after fighting the reigning monarch, taking part of the swarm with her to establish a new hive.

This is how Samara’s bee population will grow – important, because bee populations around the world have are under threat. The team at Samara is pleased to be playing a part in helping them to recover their numbers, with Reserve Manager Alan Feldon, who has extensive experience in beekeeping, responsible for overseeing how this project progresses.

As an added benefit, they are looking forward to seeing their own local honey produced from flora indigenous to the Karoo region, like spekboom.

Samara can expect to see around 10kg of honey produced from each hive – a treat they are looking forward to sharing with guests both in the food they service, and for sale in the curio shop.

www.samara.co.za

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15 AMAZING COUNTRIES Countless amazing responsible tourism experiences

If you’re a traveller who’s concerned about the impacts of your travels, then Southern Africa is the destination for you. In the three years that the African Responsible Tourism Awards has been running, a whopping 46 awards have been

handed to tourism organisations from Southern African countries. Some have gone to shine on the global stage, with southern African countries having racked up 11 wins at the World Responsible Tourism Awards since 2015.

ANGOLA

BOTSWANA

DRC

LESOTHO

MADAGASCAR

MALAWI

MAURITIUS

MOZAMBIQUE

NAMIBIA

SEYCHELLES

SOUTH AFRICA

SWAZILAND

TANZANIA

ZAMBIA

ZIMBABWE

The Regional Tourism Organisation of Southern Africa (RETOSA) is a Southern African Development Community (SADC) body responsible for the development of tourism and regional destination marketing across the 15 Southern Africa countries. www.retosa.co.za