Edition 1 - 2016

R E S P O N S I B L E

edition 1 – 2016

be the difference

TRAVEL like a local

w w w. re s p o n s i b l e t rave l l e r. c o. z a

Comment Welcome to another DIGITAL edition of Responsible Traveller…

This edition looks at the concept of ‘travel like a local’.

I recently had the privilege of travelling to Manila in the Philippines as a media delegate for the ASEAN Travel Forum... having spent a few days doing the corporate thing, a few of us decided to explore the city on local transport - we experienced the sights, sounds and smells of urban Manila as we travelled like a local! As a Durbanite, a visit to the bush is a pretty local thing to do - this time I get to do it in luxury at the wonderful Rhino Ridge Safari Lodge . Here we experience fine hospitality, wildlife and the success of a conservation and community initiative. It is so good when you see tourism and local communities working together for the benefit of all.

We follow Katarina and a group of travellers as they hike the mighty Fish River Canyon... we get to feel the pain, the exhilaration, and almost taste the ice cold beer that greets them on completion of their epic adventure! We read about the feeding habits of the Great White Shark, tour Stellenbosch like a local and meet Andries - nature lover, tour guide and now business man. We also get to check out the Longlist for the African Responsible Tourism Awards 2016 and look forward to the announcement of the finalists and winners at the Awards Ceremony to be held at WTM Africa in April 2016.

I am always inspired by the wealth of experiences that travel offers - the people I meet, stories they share and the general love of life and humanity that travel encourages. And the best way of doing this it to travel, and experience the destination, like a local... and to choose travel that makes a difference.

Enjoy the read… and be the difference.

tessa Magazine Information edition 1 - 2016 Editor Tessa Buhrmann Cell: 083 603 9000 tessa@responsibletraveller.co.za Design & Layout Michele Mayer Cell: 082 934 6940 creativelink@mweb.co.za Advertising & editorial enquiries info@responsibletraveller.co.za Digital Subscriptions info@responsibletraveller www.responsibletraveller.co.za

Responsible Traveller Published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC (CK 2008/178482/23) Contact Details P.O. Box 3, Gillitts 3603 KwaZulu-Natal South Africa Tel: +27 31 7674022 Fax: +27 86 542 9615 Publication details Responsible Traveller DIGITAL is published bi-monthly

Cover Image: Street scene - Manila, Philippines pic - Tessa Buhrmann ©

Disclaimer Responsible Traveller is published by Spotted Mongoose Media CC. The information provided and the opinions expressed in this publication are done so in good faith and while every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the managing editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages that may arise. All rights are reserved and no material from this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publishers.

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Contents Regulars:

22

Comment

03

Being a Responsible Traveller

06

Travel Tips from the market place

40

Destinations & Places to Stay: Rhino Ridge - a conservation & community success story

08

Travel like a local... in Manila

22

Adventures & Activities:

38

Hiking the Mighty Fish River Canyon

48

Making a Difference: Kwandwe Private Game Reserve

54

A man with an instinct for business

61

News:

48

African Responsible Tourism Awards 2016 Longlist

24

Great White Sharks - Ambush Hunters or not?

38

‘Friendly’ Camps a boost FTT’s Madagascar portfolio

52

New Private Island to open in the Indian Ocean

58

The importance of soil and how to sustain it

60

www.responsibletraveller.co.za 04 responsible traveller

Being a

Responsible Traveller

Responsible travel is a way of enjoying the many sights, experiences and memories of the destination you have chosen. It ensures that visitors and local communities alike share the benefits of tourism and travel equally, and it promotes greater understanding of and appreciation for fair and equitable business practice. Responsible travel is about putting back into travel what you get from it, and here are a few considerations that you could make when next you travel.

• Ask to see your tour operator's responsible travel policy.

• Ask to see the environmental policy of the accommodation establishment that you have selected – don’t be fooled by vague and unsubstantiated claims.

• Help the local economy by buying local produce in preference to imported goods.

• Ask your tour operator to establish the extent to which local communities enjoy benefits from your economic spend during your stay at a location.

• If bargaining to buy an item, bear in mind that a small amount to you could be extremely important to the seller – be realistic and fair.

• Realise that often the people in the country you are visiting have different time concepts, values and thought patterns from your own, this does not make them inferior, only different.

• Cultivate the habit of asking questions and discover the pleasure that you can enjoy by seeing a different way of life through others eyes.

• Use public transport, hire a bike or walk where convenient – you'll meet local people and get to know the place far better – always be safe and considerate.

• Use water sparingly – it is precious inmany countries and the local people may not have sufficient clean water – challenge any wasteful practice at your hotel or lodge.

• Switch Something Off – whenever you leave your room, switch unnecessary lights and equipment off and play your part in reducing greenhouse emissions.

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• Don't discard litter when visiting outof-the-way places and attractions, take it with you and dispose of it at your hotel or lodge. Waste disposal is often a major problem at outlying attractions and sites and it leads to litter and unhealthy environments for locals.

• Respect local cultures, traditions and holy places. For example, ask permission before you photograph local people – in some countries it can cause offence.

• Learn more about the cultural experiences that you are exposed to – avoid ‘sound-byte’ tourism and encourage tour operators to provide more insight into the dances, songs and traditionalexperiences that they present to you.

• Do not buy products made from endangered species, hard woods, shells from beach traders, or ancient artefacts (which have probably beenstolen). When visiting gift and curio shops, be aware of the source of the products on sale and if in doubt, don’t buy.

• Read up on the countries you plan to visit – the welcome will be warmer if you take an interest and speak even a few words of the local language.

• When you get home drop your tour operator a note to let them know how you got on.

Essentials: www.heritagesa.co.za www.fairtrade.travel www.trees.co.za www.rhinoafrica.com

Awarded

World’s Best City Hotel World Responsible Tourism Awards l World Travel Market 2014

In the unlikely location of Cape Town’s Airport Industria, Africa’s Greenest Hotel is waiting to be discovered by you. Enjoy the comfort of our 4 star hotel with 5 star services & 3 star prices. Stay at Hotel Verde, the first Hotel in Africa to offer carbon neutral accommodation & conferencing to guests.

An experience like no other By staying one night at Hotel Verde you will personally Offset 27.4 kg of carbon

Save 76 kWh of electrcity

Save 492 liters of water*

divert 2.1 kg waste from landfill

*saving accounts for guest water use across the entire hotel

Carbon Neutral Accommodation & Conferencing l 145 Rooms & 7 Conference Venues l 400m from Cape Town Airport Complimentary Airport Shuttle & Shuttle to City Centre l Complimentary Wi-Fi l Urban Beehives & Urban Farming Restored Wetland l Restaurant with 24hr Room Service l Breakfast from 4h30am l Contemporary Bar 24hr Deli l Indoor & Outdoor Gym l Africa’s First Power Generating Gym Equipment l Jogging Trail, Eco Pool & Terrace

reservations@hotelverde.com l +27 (0) 21 380 5500 l www.hotelverde.com 15 MICHIGAN STREET, CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT, SOUTH AFRICA

words - Tessa Buhrmann pics - Isibindi Africa (Guy Upfold & Roger de la Harpe )

RHINO RIDGE a conservation & community success story 08 responsible traveller

Image - Isibindi Africa / Guy Upfold

I

relax a while on our private deck, contemplating Africa and how blessed I am to live here. I gaze down the rugged hillside, pausing to take in the splendour of a large Aloe ferox, its dried seed head testament to the splash of colour and nourishment it would have brought to the winter landscape. All I am short of is a glass of bubbly, which I am sure could be arranged, given the friendly smiles and attention to detail we have seen since our arrival. responsible traveller 09

The establishment of a lodge was always on the cards, and once the land was officially incorporated into the Hluhluwe iMfolozi Park and the hunting ceased, the time seemed right.

‘The establishment of a lodge was always on the cards, and once the land was officially incorporated into the Hluhluwe iMfolozi Park and the hunting ceased, the time seemed right...’

Financing by the National Empowerment Fund was approved and the Mpembeni community, together with architects and developers Henri and Gerry Frencken and Isibindi Africa Lodges’ Brett and Paige Gehren, saw their dream of lodge ownership taking place.

It is fitting that the Gehren’s were part of this unique partnership, their love of Africa and her people evident in the way they developed, market and manage the other five Isibindi Africa Lodges, all of which have a very successful record of partnering with rural 10 responsible traveller

Image - Isibindi Africa / Guy Upfold

Rhino Ridge Safari Lodge is a privately owned community partnership concession on the western boundary of the Hluhluwe iMfolozi Park in Northern KwaZulu-Natal. It is a project many years in the making, with a number of roll players and financial input from a variety of sources. The initial Mpembeni Community Game Reserve was established some 15 years ago with financing from Safari Club International and later the Umbono Foundation – this resulted in the abandoned agricultural lands being fenced and stocked with game for trophy hunting.

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communities. Their story just proves that good business and community development can, and should, go hand in hand.

The result is the spectacular Rhino Ridge Safari Lodge, which in addition to commanding views, sports contemporary design, natural finishes and organic forms – in the main lodge as well as the 18 villas that are nestled into the hillside and surrounded by natural bush. We were soon to find that we were to be staying in one of the honeymoon villas, with its own private plunge pool!

Image - Isibindi Africa / Guy Upfold

On arrival we were led out onto the deck. Here we deal with the formalities of check-in, a cool facecloth wipes away the heat of the day and a wonderfully fruity drink quenches the thirst. We are asked to wait awhile as the finishing touches are being made to our luxury villa – but that’s ok, the bar is open and the binoculars are close at hand. We quickly spot white rhino, nyala and a couple of zebra… that’s to add to the great sightings we had on our drive up from the main gate.

‘On arrival we were led out onto the deck. Here we deal with the formalities of check-in, a cool face cloth wipes away the heat of the day and a wonderfully fruity drink quenches the thirst ...’ responsible traveller 13

The early dawn in Hluhluwe iMfolozi Park...

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‘Our ranger Warick, points out trees, birds and other interesting things - it’s not just about the Big Five..’ responsible traveller 15

The Lodge is set high on a hill overlooking rolling hills dotted with aloes, acacias and other indigenous vegetation. Our ranger Warick, points out trees, birds, and other interesting things – game viewing is not just about ticking off the Big Five.

We see an encouraging number of white rhino (given the current rhino poaching crisis in South Africa), a herd of elephant, plenty of buffalo, and zebra with young. We watch giraffe craning their necks to snack on the tender new growth of acacia trees, and delight at the antics of numerous antelope – the majestic kudu, posing for a moment before dashing for cover; the families of nyala that seem oblivious to our presence and impala males ‘having it out’ for the title of ‘main man’. The big cats are elusive - as cats often are, but that’s the delight of being in the bush… anticipation and expectation are part of the experience.

Arriving back from our late afternoon drive we are welcomed with a glass of Amarula, before freshening up and then being guided to our table for dinner. The food is beautifully presented, as locally sourced as possible and accompanied by a great selection of South African wine.

I smile overhearing a rather loud conversation of an American guest as he shows off his somewhat erroneous knowledge of South Africa and its tumultuous past. At least he gets the part about Rhino Ridge being a community partnership correct. They’re planning to visit the local community in the morning… wish I was going with them.

In addition to the fabulous food, beautiful villas, stylish décor and great game viewing, the people are wonderful – happy to share their experiences, their ups-and-downs and the benefit of having the Lodge as a source of employment and livelihood. Rhino Ridge is a great example that when tourism is done right it benefits shareholders, guests and the local community.

Says Brett: “Our dream of being able to share the passion we have for protecting the pristine and precious natural wonders of Africa began while sitting on the banks of the Isibindi River in KwaZulu Natal. We are now so proud to have launched our newest venture, Rhino Ridge which we developed in light of Hluhluwe iMfolozi’s triumph of conservation efforts. We love that guests get to experience all that the lodge has to offer, especially the exceptional safari experiences.” •

www.isibindi.co.za 16 responsible traveller

General Manager, Spha Mandla

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Images - Isibindi Africa / Guy Upfold & Roger de la Harpe

7600**

572**

pre-scheduled

exhibitors

appointments in 2015

from accross the world

2847** visitors: 16% international, 84% South African

What’s news...

African Responsible Tourism Awards 2016 reap bountiful harvest African Responsible Tourism Awards at WTM Africa reveal reach across continent with the announcement of the 2016 long list.

The competition for the 2016 African Responsible Tourism Awards at Word Travel Market (WTM) Africa has started in earnest as the long list of organisations vying for the top spot at WTM Africa in Cape Town this April is announced.

Sponsored by WESGRO and organised by Better Tourism Africa, the awards recognise inspiring African organisations that work to ensure tourism environments and benefit destinations and local people. The awards are part of a family of regional Responsible Tourism Awards which culminate each year with the World Responsible Tourism Awards which are presented at WTM in London on World Responsible Tourism Day.

Bushmans Kloof

The long-listed tourism businesses, organisations and initiatives come from 13 countries – covering the continent north to south and east to west. The list includes nominees from Morocco, the Gambia, Mozambique, Kenya, Uganda, Zambia, Ethiopia, South Africa and many more.

The long-list names over 60 tourism organisations, initiatives, businesses and projects across eight categories.

These categories include: 1. Best for Beach Tourism 2. Best Contribution to Cultural Heritage Conservation 3. Best Hotel for Responsible Employment 4. Best Operator for People with Disabilities 5. Best for Poverty Reduction 6. Best Responsible Tourism Marketing Campaign 7. Best for Wildlife Conservation 8. Best for Public Sector Policy/Support 9. People’s Choice in Responsible Tourism “The variety of organisations which have made it through to the long list this year demonstrates just how powerful a force for good responsible tourism is becoming in Africa. Each and every one of these organisations is playing an important role in championing responsible tourism. The quality of the entries is superb – we’ve seen the information in the entry forms and are excited about the possibilities,” said Heidi van der Watt, founder of the awards and director of Better Tourism Africa.

Nuarro Lodge

!Xaus Lodge responsible traveller 19

What’s news...

The long-listed organisations will now be put through their paces with the Awards customary rigorous questioning, which will then be shared with the judging team. Chair of Judges, Professor Harold Goodwin says “There is a strong field for the African Responsible Tourism Awards (ARTA) this year, illustrating the number and range of businesses taking responsibility for ensuring that they minimise their negative impacts and increase their positive ones. Those long listed will now be invited to complete a detailed questionnaire, we’ll take up references and make some inquiries and on judging day, we’ll identify those that demonstrate the difference that taking responsibility can make and which have the capacity to educate and inspire others to be more responsible - it makes business sense.”

The independent judging team will debate and make their own decision as to the winners, based on the evidence and information provided to them. Any support or otherwise for the long listed organisations can be sent to awards@ africanresponsibletourismawards.com .

A shortlist, to be announced on 1 April, will be chosen from the long list by a judging panel made up of industry experts.

Odzala, Wilderness Safaris

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The award winners will be announced at the 2016 African Responsible Tourism Awards on Thursday 07 April 2016 at the Cape Town International Convention Centre, Cape Town.

The awards are part of the responsible tourism programme at WTM Africa, which takes place from 6 – 8 April 2016. •

The 2016 ARTA longlist !Xaus Lodge Abang Africa Travel access2africasafaris Africa!Ignite African Bushcamps ATKV Goudini Spa Azura Benguerra Azura Quilalea Baobab Beach resort Basecamp Explorer Kenya Bushmanskloof Cape Camino Chameleon Backpackers Chitabe Camp Chobe Game Lodge City of Cape Town Conservation Travel Foundation Eco Atlas

North Island, Wilderness Collection

What’s news...

Elephant’s Eye Elundini Backpackers Endeavour Safaris Epic Enabled Etendeka Mountain Camp Face Adrenalin/ Bloukrans Bungy Flamingo Tours & Disabled Ventures Gauteng Tourism Authority Great Plains Conservation Hermanus Tourism Kwandwe Private Game Reserve Leriba Hotel Group Ministry of Tourism / Morocco Naboisho Conservancy Naga’ ntle Development Society National Department of Tourism/ RSA Ngare Ndare Community Trust Ngoma Safari Lodge Nkwichi Lodge North Island - Wilderness Collection Nuarro Lodge Ol Pejeta Conservancy Original T-Bag Designs Porini Camps/Gamewatchers Safaris Proudly Macassar Pottery QuadPara Association of South Africa

Safarilink Aviation SaltyCrax Adventures & SAVE Foundation Sanctuary Olonana Sandele Eco Retreat Sani Lodge Backpackers Segera Retreat Shark Spotters Simien Lodge Sirikoi Lodge Spier Stellenbosch 360 NPC The River Club Tortillis Camp Travel with Rene Uganda Marathon Victoria Falls Safari Lodge Wilderness Safaris Wildlife ACT

www.responsibletravel.com/awards/africa/

Great Plains, Selinda

Nkwitchi Lodge - pic The Good Holiday responsible traveller 21

Words & pics - Tessa Buhrmann

Travel like a local 22 responsible traveller

...in MANILA responsible traveller 23

An assortment of Jeepneys on the streets...

‘The Jeepneys are specific to the Philippines, having started out as the Willys Jeeps the Americans used in World War II...’

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L

eave the air-conditioned coaches and taxis and hit the streets, travelling like a local. This is the best way to get a sense of a destination. It was no different for us on a recent visit to Manila, metropolis and capital city of the Philippines.

Having watched the colourful Jeepneys from the safe comfort of our coach for a number of days (as hosted delegates of the ASEAN Tourism Forum 2016), we decided we couldn’t possible leave Manila without experiencing them. The hotel staff thought we were mad and offered to call us a taxi, but no, it had to be a Jeepney. Seeing our determination, we were helpfully sent in the right direction and advised which Jeepney to take.

A paltry 21 pesos later and the three of us were heading for the city, or at least one of them.

Manila as we know it, is comprised of some 17 cities – we were staying in Makati City (the financial region) and were heading to Manila City home to the historic Manila Hotel, Rizal Park and the walled city of Intramuros.

The Jeepneys are specific to the Philippines, having started out as the Willys Jeeps the Americans used when they ‘occupied’ the country (as the locals say) during World War II (WWII). The locals, needing transport, converted them into long-wheel based vehicles, added bench seats and an exit door, adorned them with vibrant colours and chrome ornamentation… and the Jeepney was born. Its name, some say, originates from the words ‘jeep’ and ‘knee’ – as in its passengers sit knee to knee.

Modern Jeepneys are produced in factories using ‘surplus’ (second-hand) Japanese trucks, but have certainly not lost any of the charm of their predecessors. There is much debate about their future with regards to the pollution the spew, their general lack of maintenance and road safety responsible traveller 25

Image - Dimitri Lespas

Claudia & Tessa crossing Roxas Boulevard

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‘A focal point is the Rizal Monument - a place of historical significance and national pride...’

The Rizal Monument in Rizal Park

concerns. There may come a time when these iconic vehicles are relegated to museum status at best or even the trash heap.

We can attest to the air pollution, the close proximity of fellow passengers and the welcome breeze from the windowless vehicles. Passengers hop on, we pass the allotted fee to the driver, and then hop off at their desired destination. There is much activity on the streets on a Saturday morning, a celebration with brass band passes by, food vendors sell their wares and shoppers carry bags laden with supplies.

Two Jeepneys, a total of 60 pesos (for the three of us) and an hour and a half later find us across the street from the Manila Hotel. This grand ol’ dame located along Manila Bay was built in 1909 by the Americans and has seen its fair share of presidents, celebrities, occupations and

dictatorships. The hotel was the residence of General Douglas MacArthur during the American period; was occupied by Japanese troops during the WWII and was placed under government ownership during the dictatorship of Ferdinand Marcos. But it was the illustrious Imelda, wife of the President, who brought international fame and recognition to the hotel. We have the opportunity to tour the archives, a room housing memorabilia and old photographs – our guide Claine tells that authors Ernest Hemingway and James A. Mitchner once visited, as did U.S. President John F. Kennedy, Rod Stewart, Michael Jackson and the Beatles, to name just a few.

We walk the few minutes it takes along Roxas Boulevard to get to Rizal Park – and yes, it is safe to walk the streets of Manila, just don’t leave your common sense behind. A focal point of Rizal Park is the Rizal Monument – a place of historical responsible traveller 27

significance and national pride. The place where national hero, José Rizal’s remains are enshrined, a place to remember the significant impact that his execution had during the Philippine revolution against Spanish occupation in 1896.

It is also the place where the Declaration of Philippine Independence from the United States was held in 1946, and a place of political gatherings and national celebrations.

We take the obligatory selfies then stroll along the wide paved walkway. We watch the locals as they chill under the trees, cuddle on a park bench or take the kids for an outing. An ice cream stall beckons, armed with delicious ube (purple yam) ice cream we continue. We’re intrigued with what appears to be a theatrical group practising, old men sleep, young girls pose for pictures, and monuments, statues and the National Museum tell of the nation’s past.

Adjacent to Rizal Park is the old walled city of Imtramuros. Spanish for ‘within the walls’, Intramuros is the oldest district and historic core of Manila. Its defensive walls were constructed in the late 16th century by the Spanish colonial government to protect the city from foreign invasions. And in later years to keep the ‘not so Spanish’ residents out – there was a nightly curfew that saw the local workers leaving and the city gates closed. The old city was guarded

by Fort Santiago, an important historical site and home of the Rizal Shrine Museum.

‘Adjacent to Rizal Park is the old walled city of Imtramuros.

Spanish for ‘within the walls’ Intramuros is the oldest district and historic core of Manila’

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The National Museum

Liberation Monument - a tribute to unsung Filipino heoes responsible traveller 29

Students on the streets in Intramuros

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Another place of interest is the Church of San Augustin, the only building left standing after virtually all the structures and 40 percent of the walls were destroyed by bombings during WWII. Intramuros is a ‘student town’ and is home to one of the oldest educational institutions in the Philippines, the Colegio de San Juan de Letran founded in 1620 – the campus was rebuilt in its same location after the war. Other educational facilities include the Manila High School, the Mapua University of Technology and the Lyceum of Philippines University Culinary Institute.

We stroll through the streets of Intramuros, past fast food outlets and local eateries, ramshackle buildings heaving under the weight of power cables and colourful bouganvillia, political posters and peeling paint. A rooster crows – the ‘last post’ perhaps? He is certainly not announcing the dawn…

We exit down Calle Victoria, one of the streets bisecting the Intramuros Golf Club. It is here that the disparity of means was most evident, and the poverty most heart breaking. The greens in sharp contrast to the grubby grey street, as are the appropriately attired golfers to those living on the street and making a living as best they can.

A child sleeps on a bench while her mother prepares and sells food, a man makes repairs to his bicycle on the pavement whilst another sells golf balls, neatly packaged. Yet in all of this there is order and the people seem happy.

A subway takes us beneath busy Taft Avenue – the traffic is a nightmare, always – hence our decision to take the Metro back to Makati. The subway is lined with stalls selling everything from ‘designer’ jeans and sequined tops, to handbags, sunglasses, electronics and books.

The ancient walls of Intramuros responsible traveller 31

Street food

Golf balls for sale...

‘We exit down Calle Victoria, one of the streets bisecting the Intramuros Golf Club. It is here that the disparity of means was most evident, and the poverty most heartbreaking... yet in all of this there is order and the people seem happy.’ 32 responsible traveller

Bicycle repairs...

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&Beyond Ngala Tented Camp

University of Manila

We pass food stalls with ube cakes on a hot griddle, fried bananas on sticks and mounds of peanuts on trays. The Bonifacio Shrine rises from the square and students laughingly pose for a group photo.

The University of Manila looms large, as does the parking lot filled with motorcycles. A family at a street stall are friendly and we strike up conversation, they happily pose for pictures, enjoying the results. In these days of digital photography it is wonderful to be able to share the pics we have taken with them.

The Metro is up ahead, it’s hot and the train is crowded – giving new meaning to being packed like a sardine! Each stop sees locals pressing to get out, and even yet more pressing to get in.

We change trains to a, thankfully, less busy route enabling us to appreciate the views of the city from our raised advantage.

Arriving in Makati we feel hot, sweaty and… accomplished. We have seen and experienced a different Manila to the one our air-conditioned coach trips had eluded us to - we had travelled like locals and totally loved it. • 34 responsible traveller

‘We pass food stalls with ube cakes on a hot griddle, fried bananas on sticks and mounds of peanuts on trays.

The Bonifacio Shrine rises from the square and students laughingly pose for a group photo...’

A group of students pose for a photo...

&Beyond Ngalaon Tented Camp Fried bananas sticks

Bonifacio Shrine responsible traveller 35

Safety precautions in Manila: As in any large city, it is wise to be vigilant.

Here is some advice from a local: •

Don’t get into a regular taxi. Their reputation is pretty bad, even among locals. Many are rundown and smelly, and there have been stories about taxis being used to commit scams and thefts (or worse). But to be absolutely safe as a foreigner traveling in Manila, use a taxi App (GrabTaxi, Easy Taxi and Uber) - make sure he switches the meter on.

•

Forget the public buses, many of them rundown, and the bus drivers aren’t the safest. And stories about passengers being pick-pocketed or held up at gunpoint aren’t unheard of either.

•

Jeepneys are better than buses though they do have their share of incidents, mostly involving pickpockets and bag snatchers.

When riding one, keep your valuables safe, try not to wear exposed jewellery, and don’t use your mobile phone. Because Jeepney vehicles are open and exposed, there have been stories of people’s phones and jewellery getting snatched.

•

The most common complaints about the MRT (metro system) include how scorchingly hot train stations are and how crowded trains get during rush hour, so much so that it becomes a haven for snatchers and pickpockets.

•

Ignore people who randomly come up to you on the street offering something. Don’t even bother talking to them… whatever it is they’re selling, you don’t want it. If someone says ‘I’ve met you in the hotel…’ it is quite likely a scam in preparation.

•

•

Be wary of locals who invite you to a bar or restaurant. They may be members of a gang that preys on foreigners. They’ll drug your food and/or drink so they can steal your belongings.

Always keep your valuables in sight. Keep the strap of your camera bag or handbag wrapped around your leg. Working in groups, a snatcher will sometimes sit at the table next to yours while another creates a distraction. They’ll grab your bag when you’re not looking and be gone in a millisecond.

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•

When walking on the sidewalk, carry your bag on the shoulder away from the street.

We often hear about motorcycle-riding purse snatchers who grab the bags of pedestrians then speed away. If you can, try not to walk too close to traffic.

Source - www.willflyforfood.net Personal note - ‘At no stage of our adventure did I feel unsafe, I was however aware of holding my backpack a little tighter when walking through the subway, and clutching it to my front while on the train… my common sense kicking in, I guess!

And there were three of us together, I would not suggest exploring on your own.’ (Travellers – Tessa Buhrmann, Claudia de Sousa, Dimitri Lespas)

Waiting on the platform for the train to arrive...

‘At no stage of our adventure did I feel unsafe... but as in any big city, don’t leave your common sense behind!’

responsible traveller 37

What’s news...

Great White Sharks – Ambush Hunters or Not? A recent paper published in Functional Ecology challenges the often assumed hunting strategy of great white sharks as ambush predators. This is the first white shark research paper to be published in the esteemed British journal. The work took place in Gansbaai – a coastal aggregation site known as the world capital for sighting the species in South Africa. The research was completed by a team of international researchers from the UK, SA, USA and Germany.

Predators can choose to sit and wait, which is observed in crocodiles, or actively patrol for prey like a cheetah, either of which may impact the animal and the ecosystem they inhabit in different ways. Some species may even use both modes and switch between them.

The Great White shark (Carcharodon carcharias) is a well-documented ambush predator with much attention drawn to its spectacular ambushing of pinniped (seals) prey at the surface. However, like many top predators, white sharks may either remain in one location for prey or actively search by patrolling.

Biologist Alison Towner, “We wanted to understand the hunting behavior of great white sharks so we deployed acoustic tags next to the dorsal fins of 15 white sharks, varying in size and sex. The sharks were actively tracked throughout all seasons at the scale of meters, from a small research vessel between 2010 and 2014. We then used powerful statistical modelling tools called hidden Markov models to analyse almost 500 hours of shark tracks.

This was the first time HMMs have been used to study shark movements and our analysis was able to identify when shark behaviour changed and in some cases, what caused these changes. We identified some of the factors that cause variability in movements and were able to quantify changing behavior, something not possible with previous analytical tools.”

Results from the study showed that white shark movements differed throughout the day and in their responses to chumming - a method of using fish oil to attract sharks to diving vessels in the area. We were actually able to

discern differences between male and female movement behavior, with females less likely to display restricted movements than males. We also recorded white sharks re-using the same movement tactics - pioneering evidence that these predators show individual preferences for particular hunting strategies.

As with land based predators, different individuals exert various levels of pressure in an ecosystem, and may choose a variety of tactics to find and capture prey. This work provided fundamental evidence that white sharks will ambush fur seals whilst either actively patrolling or using the sit and wait strategy, demonstrating that they show more plasticity in their hunting tactics that previously assumed.

‘White shark behaviour ultimately creates different pressures on other trophic levels which is of particular concern in a complex and vulnerable marine system such as Dyer Island.”

Says Towner.

This study was supported by the Dyer Island Conservation Trust and Marine Dynamics Shark Tours. Founder Wilfred Chivell: “It is known that chumming does not impact migratory behavior of white sharks, but less is known about the short term behavior when they visit regions along our coast. Studies are often limited to observations from anchored boats.

This is one of the most comprehensive studies on natural behaviour of white sharks in Gansbaai. It shows they use a more costly swimming mode around cage diving boats yet after diving activities cease for the day, the sharks resumed their natural hunting state while in the area.” •

‘This is one of the most comprehensive studies on natural behavior of white sharks in Gansbaai’ WILFRED CHIVELL

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What’s news...

About The Dyer Island Conservation Trust: The Dyer Island Conservation Trust was founded in 2006 by Wilfred Chivell. The Dyer Island Conservation Trust delivers unique conservation and research programmes in the fragile and critically important marine eco-system at the southern-most tip of Africa.

Here we strive to protect the largest surviving colonies of the endangered African Penguin whose numbers are at an all-time low; the globally important breeding and calving grounds of the Southern Right Whale; and, the world’s densest populations of the vulnerable Great White Shark.

Together with eco-tourism partners Marine Dynamics Tours - a shark cage diving company operational since 2005, and Dyer Island Cruises - a whale watching company operational since 2000, the Trust conducts valuable research, conservation and education. The companies hold Fair Trade in Tourism certification and employ marine biologists whose research is in turn supported through the Trust. The companies are essential in fundraising for the Trust. www.dict.org.za www.sharkwatchsa.com www.whalewatchsa.com

Image - Dyer Island Conservation Trust/ K.Baker

Carcharodon carcharias - Great White Shark

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Image - Destinate / Route 360

T R AV E L T I P S f rom t h e marke t pl ac e‌

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H

eading to Cape Town for your next holiday? Be sure to include a visit to Stellenbosch - student town, wine region and home of Route 360.

The Route 360 project was designed to showcase the talent and natural resoources of the greter Stellenbosch region, enabling visitors the opportunit of connecting with locals and eperiencing local culture. It is not a georgaphical route, but as it says on their website ‘a way into the hearts and homes of our people’.

4 great Route 360 tours...

The Kayamandi Township Tour Kayamandi means ‘Sweet Home’ in isiXhosa – and the inhabitants go out of their way to make you feel at home, too!

Get to know the colourful locals of Kayamandi by wandering off the beaten track. This walkabout, accompanied by a local inhabitant/ guide, offers a variety of hands-on experiences as you wind through the maze of houses and shacks.

Cheerful greetings, happy children, township buzz and the smell of open cooking fires combine to heighten the senses. Engage with local artists and crafters, enjoy traditional food, taste the locally brewed beer. It’s a refreshing take on touring the Winelands, as well as creating a platform for social and economic transformation.

Dine with Locals You’ve travelled the world. You are familiar with negotiating your way to and through cities, nature, iconic attractions. But you are not interested in superficial or commercial experiences. You want more. You want to meet the locals. Preferably within their homes.

Meet your hosts, their friends, families, neighbours.

You want to hear their stories, share your perspectives. Leave as friends, enriched by making real connections, spending time purposefully and yes – having fun in the process! If this is true of you, you have come across a real treasure.

For this packages allows you to dine with locals, in their homes. Traditional slow-cooked food (yes, you may ask for a recipe), home entertainment (it might be the host family’s talented daughter or neighbour) and stories that evolve spontaneously. responsible traveller 41

Wine Wandering Only have limited time in Stellenbosch – not enough to do a town walkabout AND visit a wine estate? Now you can do both: explore the historic town centre AND have a cellar door experience, all within walking distance! Start off at the Tourism Visitor’s Centre, 36 Market Street, where your host (a local guide and storyteller) will meet you.

You will experience why local inhabitants agree that one feels “Forever Young” in a town that continues to inspire and innovate since 1679.

Your town walkabout will include two stops for wine tasting – in between, a tapestry of art, architecture, heritage and street café culture enfolds.

The responsible thing to do – no drinking and driving, rather do a town walkabout and drink!

A Taste of Colour

Starting with slavery, their story winds through apartheid into the new South Africa where the ‘Rainbow nation’ is building a new legacy for their children. With both actor-singers on board the theatre taxi, expect an exciting journey through time, and a very hospitable welcome in their home, where you may enjoy local culinary treats and wine tasting (wines made by the only black female wine maker in South Africa!)

www.stellenbosch.travel

‘You want to hear their stories, share your perspectives. leave as friends, enriched by making real connections, spending time purposefully and yes - having fun in the process...’

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Images - Destinate / Route 360

Leatitia Solomons and Hilton Andries take you on a nostalgic and humorous journey through the history of the Coloured community in Stellenbosch.

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10 top hacks for making your way around SA (and the world) Whether you’re an international globetrotter or a homebody braving a journey within your own country for the first time, travelling can be an overwhelming experience. How many bags should you pack - and what should you pack in them? You could scour the internet for tips from experienced travellers to help you prepare for your journey - which will yeild invaluable information about your chosen destination - but check out these great tips from experienced travellers that Cheapflights.co.za has come up...

Tip #1: Find free money Maybe calling it free money is a bit of a push, but make sure that you understand all the loyalty programmes you belong to, and play them to your advantage. Smart banking behaviour can earn you rewards ‘currency’ that can be used to purchase flights or pay for accommodation. Many banks also offer credit cards linked to airlines’ rewards schemes, earning you ‘miles’ towards the purchase of flights. Be aware of the trade-off on the potential cost of paying off your bill – and, if you can, settle at the end of the month so you don’t incur interest fees that might wipe out your loyalty saving.

Tip #2: Focus on flexibility Be flexible – with your dates (and your destination!) if you can. Look at times and dates when other people are less likely to travel – like “shoulder season” for example (the time just before or after peak season) – but check the weather patterns for that time before you book!

If you can, avoid events like school holidays

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when prices invariably go up. If your first choice of a beach holiday looks expensive, then research similar lesser-known areas; this can be a great option for grabbing family bargains.

By extending or shortening your trip by a day or two, you can often save some money on flights. Similarly, look at different ways to get to your destination – it may be cheaper to fly to London via Doha than it is to fly direct from Johannesburg – and if you plan your flights carefully, you could add to the experiences of your trip by overnighting somewhere relatively unexpected. Also look out for secondary airports – you may save money by travelling to or from Lanseria, for example, instead of from OR Tambo International Airport - just make sure that you factor in taxi and additional transport fees so that you’re not unpleasantly surprised by unexpected costs.

Bonus tip: Red-eye flights (late at night or early in the morning) are often cheaper than those at a more ‘civilised’ hour.yo

Tip #3: Set up some snacks

Tip #5: Do it digitally

Most low-cost carriers charge extra for food and beverages inflight – and let’s be honest, sometimes you wish you could choose something other than the ‘chicken-or-beef’ that regular airlines offer. Ask your local butcher to vacuum pack some biltong to snack on (although remember it’s against the law to take meat products into many other countries – so eat it all before you disembark!). Another trick is to take an empty water bottle with you, and fill it once you’re on the other side of the security controls, where fluids are limited to 100ml per container. If you’ve got lots of small goodies to take with, you could always wear cargo pants and a jacket with lots of pockets too… just remember to leave your penknife behind!

There’s not yet a digital substitute for the South African passport, but it’s worth scanning yours, along with your identity document and driver’s licence and emailing the images to an address you can access wherever you are. If you have an iPhone, save it and any other travel documents to PassBook, and you’ll be able to reference them should they get lost or stolen.

Tip #4: Pack properly The South African Civil Aviation Authority recently changed regulations to say that carryon luggage may not exceed 7kg. Choose the contents of your inflight luggage carefully: travel with a tablet computer instead of a notebook if you’re travelling for work, and pack your Kindle instead of your epic book. Buy snacks and drinks (if you’re not hacking the water bottle trick) once you’ve gone through security. If you’re taking your toiletries on-board with you, pack the absolute minimum, and include miniatures of your favourite cosmetics – or decant into smaller bottles available from most supermarkets.

If your day-tripping luggage is bigger or heavier than the 7kg allowed on South African flights, you could always pack your day pack into your main luggage. Look for a bag that is soft enough to do this, but that will still be strong enough for your daily needs.

Bonus tip: Don’t fold your clothes when you pack them – roll them! They take up less space that way, and are less likely to crease.

Many airlines offer digital boarding passes, saving you the hassle of carrying around (or losing) a slip of paper. You can often get these by booking in online up to 24 hours before take-off.

Tip #6: Dabbling with data Data roaming is expensive – and if you’re going somewhere particularly exciting, there may not be data at all! Download the Google Maps of your destinations to your phone before you leave. You may not be able to use geolocation, but you will be able to find your way – and the maps will be in the language of your choice.

If you really need to access the web, look out for restaurants that offer free WiFi – if you’re travelling abroad, MacDonald’s and Burger King are the best bet for those (and for always-clean toilets).

Tip #7: Talk to locals Whether you’re day-tripping in Davos or wandering around Woodstock, take the time to chat to the locals about the best spots to eat, the best attractions to visit, and for advice on getting around. There’s no point in travelling if you’re going to eat at the same fast food chains that you support at home – and you might as well not leave your own country if you’re not going to find out how people live elsewhere!

Tip #8: Accommodation alternatives If it’s the cost of accommodation that’s putting you off travelling, remember that there is more

‘Whether you’re day-tripping around Davos or wandering around Woodstock, take the time to chat to the locals - they’re sure to advise you on the best spots to eat and the best attractions to visit...’ responsible traveller 45

to sleeping out than hotels. You could swop a home with someone in another country, giving you both the chance to experience day-to-day life in another land, while staying in owner-run bed-and-breakfast establishments will give you that home away from home feeling, along with some great advice on local attractions and restaurants. ‘Hostels’ might evoke images of drunken students (which if you’re a drunken student is great…) but there are many hostels that offer family rooms in good areas – and they’re a great place to meet travellers from all over the world too.

Tip #9: Carrying cash (alternatives) If you’re travelling to any developed country, there’s no need to ‘buy’ lots of currency before you leave – you’ll just spend money on exchange commission, and you will be a target for theft.

It’s a good idea to have a small amount of local currency on you for that all-important coffee when you land, or for your first taxi fare from the airport, but you can use your credit or debit card almost anywhere in the world. If you’re going to use these cards to pay, ask your bank what it charges for international transactions and withdrawals, and balance that against what it would cost to buy cash before you leave.

If you’re worried about the security issues surrounding cash, rather, load your travel

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money into a travel wallet card, which allows you to purchase your FOREX before departure.

The issuing bank loads your money onto an EMV-secure payment card at a fixed exchange rate, allowing you to manage your travel funds separately from your day to day expenses, with the convenience of a debit card.

Tip #10: Research, research, research If you haven’t worked it out yet, the key to keeping travel costs under control is research: ask your friends, ask Twitter, ask anyone you know who has travelled for their advice – and then pick and choose which tips you use. There are many sites that give you the power to search for and compare flight costs, accommodation and car hire. It’s worth spending some time on these sites, well in advance of your trip, so that you’re sure to get the best deal when the time comes to pack your bags and head off into the wide, wide world.

Also remember that different airlines have different pricing policies, with some offering last minute deals, while others offer cheaper prices for bookings made far in advance of flying.

Bonus tip: Follow airlines on Twitter and Facebook – they often offer special deals via these platforms that are not advertised anywhere else.

responsible travel

There’s so much to discover in Cape Town & the Western Cape. Why not try and make a difference while you’re here on your adventure? Be part of the “Green Travel” revolution when you choose and buy eco-friendly products. Explore with a tour operator that is socially and environmentally responsible. Research and know the culture of the community you are visiting so that you can respect their dignity and privacy – remember to ask for permission before you take pics. Don’t pick the flowers, or there won’t be any left when you visit again.

Be inspired to help future generations discover more.

www.discoverctwc.co.za discoverctwc @discoverctwc discoverctwc #discoverctwc

Hiking the Mighty

Fish River Canyon W

e’d settled in for a post-hike rest on Day Two of the Fish River Canyon hike when I heard a groan from ‘S’: “I think I have rigor mortis!” Let me tell you, this hike is not for sissies and the Canyon has made mice of mightier men than ‘S’.

We got a first taste of this as we arrived at Ai-Ais where we would spend the night before setting out. This is where the 90km hike through the Namibian desert ends, and as we got comfortable with a cold Windhoek after our long drive the Walking Wounded started arriving. We heard tales of ten black toenails, saw heals with blisters the size (and appearance) of plums, and more shuffling and hobbling than in your average old age home…

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So it was with equal amounts of dread and anticipation we set our sights on Hobas the next day. Day One is basically your descent into the Canyon from the main view point at Hobas. It is very steep (at times, you basically hang on to a chain and slide down the boulders). A backpack filled with everything you need for five days does not help. We had planned to start early, but due to various reasons we only started our descent at midday.

Words & pics - Katarina Mancama First published in Katarina’s blog MY SLOW JOURNEY

So in the blistering midday heat, we slowly made our way downwards. After three hours we reached the bottom and were greeted by a group of very seasoned hikers (one lady, referred to as Auntie, was doing the Canyon for the 29th time!) that would become good companions over the next five days. After a refreshing dip and lunch, we trudged onwards through rather deep sand (this would be my nemesis throughout the hike) for about an hour and then set camp.

As the sun set, we cooked our dinner and then shared a sip of whiskey and a slice of dark chocolate before getting comfortable in our sleeping bags with a star-studded African sky as our ceiling.

Day Two involved a lot of boulder-hopping and more sand trudging and it took us almost 8 hours to reach Palm Springs (‘S’ certainly wasn’t the only one to feel the heat this day). Here, we met all fellow hikers as everyone tends to aim for this stop on day two to enjoy the hot springs.

In fact, I got rather cosy with the seasoned group here as it turned out they were of a naturalist persuasion (you can’t really get much closer than sharing a small pool with ten naked people!).

The water is around 65 degrees at source and much too hot to swim in, but where it seeps into the natural pools of the river the temperature is perfect. Be aware though, that this is pretty much a mud-bath as there’s a lot of sediment responsible traveller 49

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in the pools. But hey, people pay a lot of money to do this in a spa; here it’s free and you get a beautiful sunset as well (whether you consider ten naked people a bonus or not, I’ll leave up to you to decide)!

Day Three brought the first big surprise for me; there are shortcuts on the Canyon and there are Shortcuts. According to our map (this is, to my knowledge, the best map available), the first shortcut would be at around 45km, so when we saw one of the seasoned hikers making a beeline around the inner corner of the canyon we assumed he was looking for a suitable bush and merrily continued on our way following the riverbed.

Some ten minutes later, we realised that by following the river we’d be going around the outside corner of the (very large) bend. As it were, all the seasoned hikers were taking the “shortcut” and we decided to cut back to follow their lead.

Following the river probably would have added an hour to our hike that day. Later in the day, we encountered the first Shortcut, which took us far away from the river for over an hour. So our learning of the day was that shortcuts can cut an hour or so off your hike; whereas Shortcuts are likely to shave half a day. It just like the canyon; the proportions are vast. At the start of the trail, I wasn’t sure I wanted to take the Shortcuts (I’m a tad competitive that way) but trust me you’ll want to take all of them and you won’t feel like you are cheating anyway.

Day Four continued much in the same fashion, and we felt that we got better and better at reading the tracks and finding the best way.

There is no one way, but there certainly are better and worse ones. Something that D and I found out the hard way towards the end of Day Four (maybe we let our guards down, as things seemed to be going so well). I won’t go into details, but let’s just say that it earned us a massive row, a delay of about an hour (plus a few extra km’s that we really didn’t need due to backtracking) and I still have a scar on my leg to remind me. Lesson learned: never underestimate the Canyon.

Going to bed that last night, after the most spectacular sunset and dinner by a small campfire I felt a little sad. It would all be over the next day.

Gone was the rage and pain from earlier, and I wanted it to last much longer. Final lesson: be careful what you wish for.

The last day seemed pretty short according to the map, and we figured it would be a quick one. Not wanting to leave just yet, we even went off the trail quite far to have one more lovely break by the river. After the break, we had just over ten km’s left to Ai-Ais. Piece of cake, huh?

Once again, the Canyon showed us who’s The Boss.

As the day got hotter (much hotter than any of the other days), the sand got deeper and the final bit seemed to stretch out forever. K and I agreed that it would be a looong time before we’d ever enjoy walking on a beach again. In fact, the Canyon had by now made me feel like I never wanted to see sand again. Ever. The final hour was walked in exhausted, grumpy silence, the mood falling even lower each time we turned a corner and still saw only sand… Then, finally, the palmtrees of Ai-Ais appeared in the distance. I want to say that our steps got lighter, but we were too exhausted even to celebrate.

And so it was that we too walked into the bar at Ai-Ais as Walking Wounded. Our seasoned friends were already there, giving us a round of applause and holding out a cold beer as we shuffled and hobbled in. The taste and feel of that cold, crisp beer in my parched throat is something I’ll never forget.

What I did forget quite soon though was the hardship of the Canyon. Now all I have left are the memories of the vast open spaces, the freshness of a dip in an icy pool on a hot day, spectacular sunsets that gave way to star-studded skies, and the feeling of accomplishment at the end of each day. •

First published in MY SLOW JOURNEY be sure to follow for more slow travel journeys

‘Memories of the vast open spaces, the freshness of a dip in an icy pool on a hot day and spectacular sunsets that give way to star-studded skies...’ responsible traveller 51

What’s news...

‘Friendly’ camps a boost for FTT’s Madagascar portfolio Two of Madagascar’s leading community owned tourism establishments have joined the ranks of Fair Trade Tourism certified establishments on the fabled Red Island. Camp Amoureux and Saha Forest Camp are part of the “Friendly Camp” brand offered by Sahanala, a social venture of which the renowned conservation organisation Fanamby is a member, and take the number of Fair Trade Tourism (FTT) certified businesses on Madagascar to eight.

Created in 1997, Fanamby has adopted an innovative approach to conservation by using some of Madagascar’s most prominent protected areas as a platform for sustainable development through Sahanala, developing camps which are encouraging local communities to become involved in responsible tourism and giving them the skills they need to make the camps a success.

Fanamby currently manages five protected areas across Madagascar totalling 600,000 ha in size – the equivalent of 10% of all protected areas on

Images - Fanamby / Morrison Mast / Nicolas Cegalerba ©

This page - Camp Amoureux

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the island. These areas are home to 30 species of lemur, the biggest scorpion in the world and seven different species of endemic baobab trees. Since these areas came under Fanamby’s management, 50 new species of fauna and flora have been discovered.

“Sahanala is devoted to using protected areas as a means to reduce poverty and stimulate real economic development,” says founder Serge Rajaobelina. “Nature and natural resources are essential in the daily lives of the Malagasy people and constitute a means to increase wealth and well-being if managed wisely,” he adds.“Friendly Camps have been created to use responsible tourism to help find the best balance between peoples’ needs and aspirations, and to conserve biodiversity for current and future generations.”

Camp Amoureux, meaning “Lovers camp”, is located close to the world-famous Avenue of Baobabs, 44km north of the town of Morondava in the south west of Madagascar. It is named for the lovingly entwined baobabs which are the

What’s news... focal point of the camp. Surrounded by rich, biodiverse habitat ranging from dry forests to mangrove swamps and lakes, Camp Amoureux is the perfect base from which to experience the curiously shaped trees which have helped to make Madagascar renowned worldwide.

Only two hours north of the capital of Antananarivo lies Saha Forest Camp, deep in the heart of a lush, 52,000ha primary forest inhabited by Madagascar’s largest and most impressive lemur – the indri. This tented camp is located high on a hillside overlooking the towering canopy of the forest which is also home to diademed sifaka and an impressive list of indigenous birdlife. The camp offers guests a range of hikes into the forest with experienced guides from the local community.

“We are delighted that Saha Forest Camp and Camp Amoureux have become Fair Trade Tourism certified as we view this as just recognition of the work that Sahanala has been doing using biodiversity conservation and responsible tourism as a means of poverty

alleviation within protected areas,” says Fair Trade Tourism managing director Nivashnee Naidoo.

Fair Trade Tourism, a South African non-profit organisation promoting awareness about responsible tourism to both travellers and the African tourism industry, facilitates a worldrenowned certification programme. In December 2011 it became the first tourism certification programme in Africa to be recognised by the Global Sustainable Tourism Council and is based on strict adherence to criteria including fair wages and working conditions, fair distribution of benefits, ethical business practice and respect for human rights, culture and the environment.

The certification programme is currently offered to tourism businesses in South Africa, Madagascar and Mozambique. Fair Trade Tourism also has mutual recognition agreements with like-minded certification programmes in Seychelles, Namibia and Tanzania which allows businesses certified under those programmes to be marketed under the Fair Trade Holiday banner by approved tour operators. •

www.fairtrade.travel This page - Saha Forest Camp

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

K

wandwe Private Game Reserve Wins “Best Safari Guiding Team” Award At 2016 Safari Awards. An exceptional accolade announced at the 2016 Safari Awards, Kwandwe was also awarded 3rd Place in the ‘Best Family Experience’ category as well as was Highly Recommended for its Safari Cuisine along with its Safari House, Melton Manor.

Whether in person, on social media or TripAdvisor the team comprising tracker and guide duos have long been recognised for their superb and knowledgeable guiding.

Leading guests across the reserve’s vast landscape on morning, afternoon and evening game drives, spotting the wide variety of game found here whilst teaching them the intricacies of the bush in a fun and interactive environment is what sets them apart. They also guide guests on bush walks, fishing and boat excursions as well as surprise them with bush-stop banquets and sundowners on the dam’s pontoon.

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The partnership of superbly trained guides and trackers allows for a truly holistic guided experience on Kwandwe Private Game Reserve.

All guides, regardless of prior experience are put through a wide-ranging training programme on arrival at Kwandwe, and this is the magic ingredient in creating highly skilled, knowledgeable and personable guides.

A dedicated senior guiding team and ranger trainer allow for extensive time to upskill and evaluate guides and trackers on an ongoing basis, and this, together with an incredible sense of team spirit has given rise to this exceptional

Images - Kwandwe Private Game ReserveŠ

CONSERVATION PROFILE

KWANDWE

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

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CONSERVATION PROFILE

group of naturalist guides and trackers.

Whilst many already hold top-tier guiding qualifications, all Kwandwe’s guides have a minimum of back-up trails guide and advanced rifle handling in additional to all the basic legal requirements.

The on-site training allows all guides to conduct nature walks along with a number of specialist guides who are able to guide guests to view potentially dangerous game on foot. Combined with photographic, birding and fishing specialists, the team has the capacity to cater to a variety of specialised interests for our valued guests. It is Kwandwe’s ongoing investment in their guides and trackers that ensures each guest enjoys an engaging and lasting experience.

One of the largest private game reserves in South Africa’s Eastern Cape, Kwandwe has a strong focus on conservation and community development. The 22,000 hectare/ 54,000 acre pristine wilderness comprises just 22 rooms split between two individual safari lodges and two exclusive use safari villas affording it one of the highest guest to land ratios in all South Africa.

‘Kwandwe is one of the largest private game reserves in South Africa’s Eastern Cape, and has a strong focus on conservation and community development...’

Offering exceptional game viewing including Lion, Cheetah, Elephant and Buffalo it is also home to other threatened species such as the Knysna Woodpecker, Cape Grysbok, Black Wildebeest, Crowned Eagle, Black Footed Cat and the highly endangered Blue Crane, from which the reserve gets its name – ‘Kwandwe’ means ‘Place of the Blue Crane’ in Xhosa. •

www.kwandwe.com responsible traveller 57

What’s news...

New private island to open in the Indian Ocean

Images - Thanda Island ©

One of the few truly private tropical islands in the world will be opening its doors from April 2016. Thanda Island is the magnificent beach residence of the Swedish entrepreneur and philanthropist couple Christin and Dan Olofsson.

Situated within southern Tanzania’s Shungi Mbili Island Marine Reserve, this private island offers absolute exclusivity for families and friends to enjoy on a sole-use basis. It is the sister property to their highly acclaimed and multi-award winning private game reserve, Thanda Safari, in Zululand South Africa, a member of The Leading Hotels of the World.

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Off-grid and solar-powered, Thanda Island offers guests an environmentally sensitive, fun and restorative Indian Ocean experience in total seclusion. Comprising an expansive five-bedroom villa featuring an impressive glass rim-flow swimming pool and a huge indoor aquarium to rival its outdoor counterpart, it combines casual beach-house living with outdoor ocean adventures. The villa accommodates 10 adults, with the option of additional children sharing.

Reflecting their own style, the villa has been designed and decorated by Christin and Dan

What’s news...

Olofsson personally. A palette of white has been chosen and combined with soft, natural hues and fabrics throughout, complemented by their handpicked pieces of furniture and artwork.

Leading straight off from the pristine white sand beach, the fan cooled and air-conditioned suites each feature indoor and outdoor showers.

Countless palm trees, indigenous vegetation and bushes have also been planted to enhance the existing beauty of the Island’s flora.

Encouraging guests to slow down and soak up the relaxed tempo of island life, they will enjoy long lunches under the veranda, have fun making pizza in the outdoor oven and laugh late

into the starry night around the outdoor cocktail bar. By day, they may choose to laze on the expansive deck that frames the house and the pool or prefer the feel of the squeaky white sand of their own beach between their toes.

Eight hectares in size, 1.1 kilometres in circumference and 350m wide, the Island is surrounded by its own private coral reef, with a 1km exclusive-use zone, which can be explored with a snorkel and mask straight from the beach.

Sailing boats, stand-up paddle boards and single as well as double kayaks are all on hand for the active.

The more adventurous can catch sight of the whale sharks that congregate just south of the Island from October to February or spot the endangered dugong while scuba diving with qualified instructors. Furthermore, a powerboat zone outside the Marine Park to the south of the Island allows for water skiing, jet-skiing, wakeboarding and tubing. Big game fishing on a 28-foot reef runner cat off Mafia Island is another available activity.

Depending on the season, guests can watch turtles nesting and their eggs hatching. Five species of marine turtles occur in Tanzania’s waters, two of which – green and hawksbill, categorised as endangered by the IUCN – have recently returned to nest on the Island. Guests will also be able to learn about the local Swahili sea-faring culture on nearby Mafia Island and picnic on a neighbouring atoll.

Furthermore, Thanda Island seeks to mirror the conservation and community upliftment successes that Thanda Safari has achieved in South Africa by partnering with the Tanzanian Marine Parks and the leading NGO, Sea Sense, on a range of marine conservation and education programmes in the region. These include research and conservation projects on the sea turtles, dugongs, dolphins, whale sharks, coral reefs and marine reserves.

Adding to this, the team is participating in a range of social upliftment programmes on Mafia Island, which has approximately 60,000 people in the communities. This will be in the form of a commitment to the education of young people in sustainable resource utilisation, fish harvesting, marine conservation, and in the development of healthy, sporting activities, such as football. •

www.thandaisland.com responsible traveller 59

What’s news...

The importance of soil and how to sustain it If anyone doubted the impact of climate change they need to think again. Yes the El Nino effect is impacting on our weather patterns - but these conditions have been exacerbated by Climate Change.

The reality is that we are now living in a world which is changing. For the first time Arctic temperatures, in the middle of winter, have been above zero. Many will despair and worry about what Government’s should be doing about climate change. The problem seems too large. Too difficult! And not something individuals can do much about.

Gavin Heron, partner of Earth Probiotic says, “While Government should be responsible for providing the legal and political context to reduce CO2e emissions, ordinary citizens must be taking action as well. After all, many many people doing the right thing can create an enormous impact.”

So what can be done by the people (other than carrying on the lobbying efforts to get Government’s to take action)?

Save water by planting water wise plants.

Depending on where we are, most of these would be indigenous and endemic to your region (although this is changing as flora and fauna move with our changing climate).

Improve the water retaining ability of your soil by mulching and composting. Mulching will help reduce water evaporation while composting will improve the ability of your soil to retain water and nutrients.

Buy local produce as much as possible. This not only supports local businesses it also reduces the costs associated with moving food from one side of the world to another (and thus reduces carbon emissions). Related to this is to eat seasonally. Oranges are for Winter and Apples for Summer - eating seasonally has also been shown to boost your immunity.

Buy and plant organic. Synthetic fertilisers are made from petro-chemicals. They thus have a vast carbon footprint. Moreover, the over use of these substances kill the biology of soil (eliminating beneficial micro-organisms and thus macro-organisms such as earthworms).

This leads to another point, be a soil steward. Soil should be thought of as a living organism which

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needs to be nurtured. In this context nurturing requires the idea of feeding and tending. Plant bee friendly plants. Our crops depend on bees for pollination. Our bees are in crisis. We need to look after these essential creatures in order to sustain our food. Already some crop pollination rates have dropped by 50% due to declining wild bee populations.

Why is the soil so important? “After all we can feed ourselves using aquaponics and hydroponics. These are well and good. But soil is not only about growing food. All life depends on soil. We need forests just as much as an orang-utan or a bee does. Protecting our natural environment protects us,” says Gavin.

What are the tools that we should be looking at: Drip irrigation to ensure that water goes to where it is most needed and water waste is eliminated.

Mulching to keep water in the soil by reducing evaporation and to also reduce erosion.

Cover cropping which feeds nutrients back to soil while also helping with water retention, weed management and soil health.

Composting which provides food for the soil while also reducing methane production when organic matter is sent to landfill. Investigate adding biochar to your soil which helps with carbon sequestration.

Gavin concludes, “If you are looking at growing vegetables plant heirloom seeds. Not only are they very interesting they also help protect food diversity. While saving you money as you can keep - and should share - their seeds which are as viable as the original.” •

www.earthprobiotic.com

PEOPLE PROFILE

a man with an

INSTINCT FOR BUSINESS

A

ndries Mabila’s first job was to protect his grandfather’s herd of cattle.

As they roamed the bush of Rooiboklaagte he entertained his brother with tales of the scrub hare and common duiker they had seen. An abiding love of animals was well established in the six-year-old herdboy, as was his keen eye for snakes. He learned to read animal behaviour, understanding why a flock of birds suddenly took flight or a little buck startled.

His desire to protect the animals in his care, and a gift for storytelling, inevitably led to Andries realising his full potential many years later, as the co-founder of Nghelekele Tours & Safaris, the only safari company authorised to offer a park-and-ride guided tour facility in the whole of the Kruger National Park. They have four vehicles and offer a variety of game drives and other services from Paul Kruger Gate, Numbi Gate and Phabeni Gate.

After completing school Mabila studied to become a private investigator, a job that requires a keen eye for details and the ability to notice unusual activities. After finishing his course, Mabila received an opportunity to study wild life, his lifelong passion. In his own words, “I fell in love with my career.”

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A joint initiative between SANParks and Vuswa Fleet Services in 2011 led to the establishment of Nghelekele Tours and Safaris. Mabila and his partners, Joburg Ndlovu and Mike Machavi, welcomed this chance, part of a broader upliftment initiative aimed at communities bordering the greater Kruger National Park. The intention was to create sustainable economic empowerment opportunities through tourism and Mabila’s passion made him stand out from the crowd.

A few years later, his articulate enthusiasm and bold vision was noticed once again. He was one of only fifteen high-potential Mpumalanga applicants who met the criteria for the SAB Foundation Tholoana Enterprise Programme.

Some 127 applications were received in Mpumalanga alone, with just over 700 received countrywide, making Mabila’s selection in July 2015 all the more noteworthy.

Catherine Wijnberg of Fetola, the implementing partners for the SAB Foundation Tholoana programme, says, “We see great potential in Nghelekele. Andries is an excellent guide, and also keen to learn how to grow the business. The Kruger National Park is a tremendous asset, so we’re glad to be supporting a business that is integrated into our premier wildlife resource.”

Since joining the programme, Mabila reports that he has made some changes in his business.

“We now manage our finances better. Writing a monthly report to my mentor has taught me how every cent counts to making a business survive.”

He has also focused on marketing, prospecting for work with hotels and agencies. This resulted in a long-term contract with Heading South Tours.

Mabila aims to grow the business. “We operate

PEOPLE PROFILE

only on the south of the Kruger Park,” he says.

“We’d like to expand throughout the whole park.

We employ local guides who have an intimate knowledge of the region, having grown up in the area. They are connected to this place, and our clients notice and appreciate this.”

Mabila explains that the life of a safari guide is not always smooth sailing. He recalls a group of delighted clients as he slowed his vehicle to a stop on a narrow bridge. A pride of lions was crossing the same bridge, strolling away from them. As he pointed out the females and the cubs, he glanced intuitively in the rear view mirror. To his horror, he discovered the male of the pride coming right up beside him. He jumped onto the high seat behind him, landing in the tourists’ laps. Laughing, he says, “I don’t know who was more surprised, the lion or the guests.”

www.nghelekeletours.co.za www.sabfoundation.co.za

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