TCBL HANDBOOKS
RESTRUCTURING PRODUCTION
Co-funded by Horizon 2020
ANNEX I TO TCBL D 4.3 - 30 JUNE 2018
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INTRODUCTION Two complementary pilots, Short Runs (typically bespoke items and production manufacture up to 2,000 pieces) and Independents (micro ateliers), are working on the re-organisation of the actual garment production process to meet the needs of a changing market. Downscaling production volumes and up-scaling the capacity of micro ateliers to deliver products and services to that market are seen as vital if real change is to be affected. Here, the main focus is on a 5% return (recovery, revitalisation) of manufacturing capacity to European shores; the work begun by these pilots suggests that bolder targets might be conceived. #TCBL_2018 in Prato saw this theme explored through the eyes of four Associate members, all businesses in their own right. Presentations there offered the following targets for 2025: • •
10% market share for short run textiles 10% market share for independent brands
The work of the two pilots to date has created a level of interest that can be demonstrated in part through the recent 2018 Call for new Associates. Seventy-three Associates expressed an interest in participating in short runs; seventy-two for the independents. That level of interest may well have something to do with the practical nature of the two pilots, working with real businesses, creating new business propositions and actual business transactions. As mentioned, the two pilots seek to address the restructuring of production. Work on short runs is addressing barriers and introducing new opportunities for viable short run business propositions. Key barriers have been identified and a model of the key stages in the process from concept to retail production mapped; the resulting model can be seen in action in case study 4 and is also relevant to many independent ateliers. A second important theme for the pilot is the creation of an environment where designers and manufacturers requiring short runs can find each other and do business. This is not about reinventing the wheel: there are existing players in the market and we have identified two with whom work is ongoing – Netherlands based Sqetch and German based Sourcebook. The independents pilot is providing support to emergent designer-producers leading the way with durable designs for aware consumers. There are various ways in which this support can be offered, including through promoting collaboration, networking, technology adoption, and innovative production methods. The four case studies (two from short runs and two from the independents) that form the major part of this guide are quite different in their nature. This is quite deliberate: they highlight the diverse range of issues that affect the industry but also the breadth of expertise that the TCBL ecosystem can bring to bear to help address them. Importantly, all the examples are viewed as replicable and scalable and could be adapted and used throughout the European textile and clothing industry.
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CASE STUDY 1: GULLO FILATI (INDEPENDENTS) Gullo Filati was founded in the 1960s in the historic centre of Palermo (IT) as a wholesale and retail of haberdashery products. In those years, the area had numerous wholesale businesses aimed at city tailors (haberdashery, fabrics, kapok for stuffing, accessories for shoemakers, fabric dyes). The square in which the shop stands is also one of the most beautiful in Palermo, Piazza Sant'Anna.1 For many years, Gullo Filati supplied tailors as well as the various small haberdasheries in the city's districts, until the rise of ready-made fashion determined the progressive crisis of tailoring craftsmanship and the consequent closure of most of the haberdasheries in the city. In addition, a new traffic plan in the 2010s confined Gullo Filati to a pedestrian area overwhelmed by nightlife in the evenings and unreachable by car during the day. Michele Gullo, son of the founder, found himself in a dilemma: his choices were to close the shop (owned by the family), rent it to a nightlife pub, or do something innovative. At the recent #TCBL_2018 event in Prato, Michele Gullo recalled nights when he was awake with the fear of losing the smells and tactile sensations of his shop products, which were familiar to him from his childhood. For these reasons, in 2016 Michele Gullo installed a large table in one of the two rooms of the store, bought a coffee machine and kettle, and started to advertise the "Gullo Filati knitting café" on social networks.
Michele Gullo with a knitting café in the background
Since the first meeting in early 2016, the knitting café has become an enormous success, and, thanks to the collaboration of his staff, Michele Gullo has organized and publicized weekly meetings which have since become, bi-tri-weekly. In June 2016, the first “worldwide knitting in 1
In the 1960s the waltz scene of the film "Il Gattopardo" by Luchino Visconti, based on the novel by Giuseppe Tomasi of Lampedusa, was filmed in Palazzo Gangi, facing Gullo Filati on the same square.
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Restructuring Production TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs public spaces day” was organized in Piazza Sant'Anna, while in the meantime the shop was witnessing an exponential growth in revenue. As Michele Gullo says, “bringing knitting lovers into a haberdashery is like bringing children to a candy store”, and the costs of managing the knitting meetings (for which users pay nothing) are largely compensated by the increase in sales of haberdashery products. Gullo filati came into contact with the TCBL project team in June 2017, on occasion of the 2nd world wide knitting day event. The potential for reciprocal added value was evident: the Gullo knitting café was a perfect example of the kind of socialisation and collective learning that characterises a Place Lab. For Gullo filati, collaboration with TCBL offered the possibility to extend his café activity to sewing and embroidery, consolidate his experience into a replicable model, and build a network connecting similar venues and events across Europe, thus reinforcing the positive business impacts already seen. In a short time, the company joined TCBL as a Place Lab and the replicable TCBL Café project was born, published on the TCBL Labs platform, and since adopted in several Labs in the TCBL network. Today, a haberdashery shop at risk of closure has re-established itself and doubled its sales, in contrast with current market trends. Gullo Filati is in fact currently refurbishing its locales in line with the new image of a modern space for socialising T&C knowledge.
The refurbished Gullo Filati haberdashery.
In short, the strengths of this experience can be summarized in two mottos: 1. The importance for retail to offer a genuine experience to customers. 2. The importance of building a community based both on the products and the knowledge of using them.
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It seems obvious, but this is precisely what retail can offer as an alternative to the impersonal experience of e-commerce or department stores. But two mottos are not enough to determine success; nothing can be taken for granted and it takes work hard to achieve one’s goals. In the case of Gullo filati, an important role is played by experience in the field, an intelligent network promotion, the sympathy and friendliness of the Gullo staff, and the location.
Flyer for the Gullo filati knit Café with the new company logo. To this was added the contribution of the TCBL staff, specifically on three fronts: 1. Gullo filati participated in the “Vestino” event, organised in collaboration with the INTERREG-MED CreativeWear project.2 This experience suggested to Gullo a greater sensitivity towards ethical and environmental sustainability, which he was able to follow up on by connecting with the TCBL Natural Fibres Business Pilot. 2. Gullo filati also participated in a proposal for the Open Call of the Worth project,3 which while short listed was not retained for funding. Nonetheless, participation in a Worth meeting in Spain with the other short-listed proposers strengthened Gullo’s confidence in the strategic direction for his company. 3. On the basis of this experience, Michele Gullo was invited as a testimonial for the Independents Business Pilot in the TCBL_News section of #TCBL_2018 in Prato, 30 th May 2018. Thanks to all these synergies, from June 2017 to June 2018 the Gullo filati company has: •
Exponentially increased its visibility on social networks.
2
https://creativewear.interreg-med.eu/
3
https://www.worthproject.eu/it/design-manufactoring-projects-it/
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Restructuring Production TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs • • • • • • • •
Maintained and expanded the user community of the knitting café. Received numerous interviews (print, web and video) from the local press. Helped to revitalize one of the most beautiful squares in Palermo. Designed a new company logo. Completely renovated the store, which had remained unchanged since the sixties. Organized on-line sales for knitting café participants to sell their work. Developed thematic Cafés for: sewing, amigurumi, creation of bags, embroidery, crochet, knitting, and Christmas decorations. Launched a citizen’s competition for the decoration of a typical Sicilian accessory: the "coffa" (large soft straw basket, born to feed the horses of the cart and then adopted as a daily bag). The announcement of the winner took place on June 9, 2018 during the third edition of the Worldwide knitting in public festival.
TCBL believes that a network of community TCBL Cafés can be further developed to fulfil unresolved needs of the sector. • • •
As a pool for the spontaneous aggregation of skilled and specialized labour, meeting a clearly expressed need of independent designers. As an opportunity to raise awareness among consumers about yarns, fabrics and skills for a more conscious choice of materials and fashion products. As a platform for new business models mixing elements of the haberdashery, clothing store and sewing café, to offer garment kits at different stages of definition, i.e. patterns with instructions, pre-cut garments with accessories, semi-finished garments, bespoke clothes, etc.
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CASE STUDY 2: CLEA POLAR (INDEPENDENTS)
Clea Polar at #TCBL_2018
Clea Polar is a young independent designer-producer who, with two friends, has created COCO & RICO (Ivry-sur-Seine, near Paris) for the creation of clothing that, from a generation, searches for quality and ethics. The atelier works for fashion professionals, beginners or expert creators, sharing its know-how to realise their projects. The atelier's location in France brings added value to products because the quality of the ‘Made in France’ label is internationally recognized. COCO & RICO is a semi-industrial laboratory with craftsmanship that has recently expanded over an area of 200 square meters.
The COCO&RICO production facility
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Since she started her activity, Clea has been inspired by three requirements: • • •
Production entirely in France Ethical and environmental sustainability in production Quality in raw materials.
Above all, Clea is determined to create an alternative to fast fashion, focusing on the production process and paying attention to any innovation (even robots) that can lower of manufacturing costs, without lowering product quality or the human experience of work. Clea Polar became a TCBL Associate through the second Call in 2017, attracted by the need to identify flexible forms of production, somewhere between the assembly line and artisan ateliers. She fully agreed with some reflections developed within the Independents Business Pilot, in particular: • • • • • • •
There are many important activities in small ateliers that we will need to explore but the key issue for TCBL is to re-examine the potential of the role of sewing. Sewing has undergone little innovation since the invention of the sewing machine. Sewing is highly knowledge intensive: the process is driven by the sewer’s touch and ability to make many micro-decisions on the spot. Sewing represents a significant innovation opportunity for TCBL. The specificity of garment production makes it difficult to reduce it to standard assembly. In the laboratories of the past, knowledge was exchanged by talking while sewing, and it would be important to recover that knowledge heritage. Each step in the sewing process is rich with knowledge: the speed and noise of industrial sewing machines is ultimately destroying this value.
There is in fact a need for a new model of organisation of the garment manufacturing process. Elements of a new approach might include: • •
•
•
•
A healthy, attractive, and empowering working environment such as to attract talent and especially young workers to employment in garment production. An 'island-like' organisation (similar to that of robotized factories) with 4-6 workers around a cluster of machines, flexibly arranged to meet the needs of a minimum production run. An organisation of working processes that foresees the execution of several steps if not the whole garment at each workplace cluster, allowing workers to communicate, exchange views, discuss the appropriate procedure, and explain processes to apprentices. The adoption of team production methods as trialled in the automotive industry in the 1970s and only sporadically applied to garment production, with the adaptation of production scheduling tools and software to the team approach. The use of smart machinery to transmit knowledge about generic production processes as well as the specific processes intended for a given model.
In the Sestri Levante TCBL meeting (03.12.2017) Maria Adele Cipolla (eZavod) and Jesse Marsh (PRATO) launched the “Garment Assembly Team Workstations” Lab Project Proposal. The proposal reflected on the fact that the assembly line did not give the expected results in terms of efficiency, so that even big brands are oriented towards small and flexible productions, close to the place of sale. They proposed to test a modular workstation cluster, such that a single cluster could meet a small atelier’s production needs, while smoothly scaling up to short run production needs with several workstation clusters in the same environment.
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The proposed workplace layout
Benefits could be: • • • • •
A healthy, attractive, and stimulating place to work that valorises artisanal knowledge. Island organisation to produce finished or semi-finished products. Variable compositions of sewing machines and personnel for a day’s work, optimising learning. Smart environments to capture and transfer knowledge and track production flows. Re-designed production management systems software allowing for flexible organisation.
At the same time, Clea was transferring her production to a new 200 square meter space, which she was renovating. This appeared to be a perfect occasion to test the new workstation cluster layout in her new facility. To support this experimentation, Clea developed a proposal for the WORTH project Open Call4 with another TCBL Associate, Sartoria Sociale in Palermo,5 also a TCBL Business Lab, called TWILL,6 which was successfully awarded the requested funding. TWILL aims to test a new and innovative workplace for garment assembly that allows small workshops/ateliers to scale up production while maintaining the team dynamics and collaboration. Sartoria Sociale is a cooperative company offering creative and occupational paths to people in need through social tailoring projects that recycles textile and tailors them, with the aim of creating a multidimensional social enterprise. It thus is an appropriate setting in which to test the proposed workstation layout for ergonomics and the promotion of social
4
Ibid.
5
http://www.sartoriasociale.com/
6
http://www.worthproject.eu/project/cocorico-rosalba-romano/
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learning. The validated set-up will then be transferred to COCO & RICO for further testing in Clea Polar’s more industrial production environment. In parallel, “TCBL Innovative Workplace” https://labs.tcbl.eu/projects/74 is now a TCBL project that can be replicated by anyone interested in developing the approach in other settings. Discussions are in fact currently under way with other TCBL Associates for the possible transfer of the workplace design following the experimentation of the TWILL project..
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CASE STUDY 3: LOUISE STOCKS-YOUNG (SHORT RUNS) TCBL Partner the Textile Centre of Excellence has been working with TCBL Associate Louise Stocks-Young, establishing her new brand for a start-up business, ‘Smock Works’, comprising denim ladieswear of unique silhouettes designed and produced in the UK. Louise is from The Fashion Industry and previously worked in PR and marketing, currently she is a Fashion Lecturer also.
Louise Stocks-Young and Smock Works
THE OPPORTUNITY Ruth Farrell of The Textile Centre recognised that Louise’s business proposition was a viable one but like many of the Start-ups that approached The Centre there would be key barriers to over-come to enable this bespoke/ short run business to establish and succeed. Louise’s fundamental values sat in line with those of the TCBL project; such as: sustainability and open sourcing, therefore throughout the process these factors were considered and met. Two key factors were sourcing ethical good quality fabrics in small volumes and producing short run production locally.
TCBL SOLUTIONS Working to a personally designed ‘Snakes & Ladders’ 35 stages – see picture below – the Design and Make Labs in Huddersfield worked with Louise by providing training, guidance and service in order to bring Louise’s idea through the pathway from concept to market, helping to overcome and address the barriers and pit-falls along the way.
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‘Snakes and Ladders’ on the path to a T&C business.
The Labs were able to provide mentorship and guidance, practical support and training initially helping to pin point its unique selling point (USP), defining the customer and company ethos. From there the process continued on to all aspects of pre-start-up such as design, pattern cutting, development samples, creating final styles, learning new hand smock techniques, sourcing trims/fabrics/CMT and costing, towards final patterns and graded masters.
Hand smocking.
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Hand smocking on one of the styles was something that Louise wanted to incorporate; it added something unique to the garment. Ruth was very happy to teach herself and Louise this traditional skill and allow it to continue into the modern world. However, the process of hand smocking is laborious and involves high fabric usage. Thus, both factors needed to be considered when costing and establishing selling prices for the garments. It will also be an element to work around for orders. Working with The Labs ensured that Louise was able to fulfil her dream and maintain her values with the support on making commercial decisions. She is now at the final stages; she has sourced fabric and trims and a local production unit. The manufacturers are now bringing the patterns and samples produced by The Labs to the final production stages. The hand smocking to order issue will need monitoring and further thought. However, this was something that Ruth and Louise always expected but believed worthwhile.
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CASE STUDY 4: WHEN FABIO MET RITA (SHORT RUNS)
Rita Britton of Nomad Atelier
Rita Britton manufactures and sells high quality clothes and accessories for ladies through her business Nomad Atelier (http://www.nomadatelier.co.uk/). The business is based in Barnsley, Yorkshire, in the UK. Rita’s store, The Tobacco Warehouse, has been fully restored as a 21st Century luxury emporium, showcasing the Nomad clothing and accessories collection focusing on cashmere, silk, and leather. Sourcing fabric in small quantities is a barrier to production.
Fabio Giusti of Travi CreativitĂ Tessile
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Restructuring Production TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs Fabio Giusti’s company Trafi Creatività Tessile (http://www.trafi.it/) gives the fashion world the opportunity to go beyond the old traditions of the textile industry by offering treatments that allow the creation of innovative textile products. Trafi, based in Prato, Italy, works with recycled waste and offers dyeing and needle-punching expertise amongst other areas. Lab Manager Ruth Farrell works with TCBL partner the Textile Centre of Excellence. She has 27 years’ experience in fashion design, buying, sales, account management, sourcing and production. She has worked in all routes to market i.e. retail, supply and e-tail and travelled extensively worldwide for her roles. She also trained in Trend Prediction in New York. Her experience as a commercial designer helped her to understand the importance of adaptability and openness to change; she’s witnessed first-hand the change in the clothing Industry and especially the momentum from trend led designs to fast fashion. Sustainable production is of huge importance to all three and they share a common wish that products are bought to be treasured and to last. Ruth’s work with TCBL on the short runs business case means that she can offer participants the benefits of her expertise and vast experience. Fabrics and yarns have been the main products of the Prato area in Italy for centuries.
THE OPPORTUNITY The Textile Centre of Excellence is a longstanding friend of Rita Britton and her business; the municipality of Prato likewise with Fabio’s company, Trafi. Their names were mentioned together when Bill Macbeth and Besnik Mehmeti discussed the possibilities for collaboration between UK and Italian textile businesses. In April 2017 Besnik invited the Textile Centre to Prato to participate in a workshop and, as part of the associated activities, a visit to Fabio’s company, Trafi, was put in place. The visit was really worthwhile with everyone seeing possibilities for co-operation and the development of new business ideas. Back in Britain Rita wanted to see some of Fabio’s materials but she also wanted to find out more about the business and the range of potential business opportunities.
TCBL SOLUTIONS It was seen as helpful that Rita and Fabio could meet each other but, more importantly, Rita needed to see and touch some of the fabrics that had been discussed. TCBL was able to invite the pair to its 2017 conference, held in Athens in June. Fabio brought some samples of needle punched fabrics and printed silk with him and Rita picked some items of particular interest; Fabio agreed to send swatches and 3 metre sampling lengths over to Britain for testing and style development as a result. Fabio agreed to send them to her atelier in Barnsley. There was an initial holdup in organising the delivery to Rita but Besnik and Ruth were able to sort out the problem and the material arrived.
CREATING A NEW BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY Within a day of receiving the sample material Rita had used her design experience to identify how it could work with other fibres to produce a garment, and what additional pieces might complement it in order to create a look. Even better, her superb knowledge of her clientele base enabled her to pick out a likely price point and the route to market.
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The finished prototype was styled with a cashmere hoodie and black boots, photographed and a copy uploaded to Instagram – with immediate and positive feedback. The garments were drycleaned twice to test their performance and all passed with flying colours.
Fabio’s fabric, Rita’s design
The next step was to follow by creating a second, follow-up transaction. Rita knew that the limited availability of Fabio’s materials could help her to design the bespoke, exclusive products that her customers looked for; she was interested in creating a series of one-off scarves. Rita suggested commercial colour options and Fabio agreed a number of options. Following a further meeting between Ruth and Rita a list of key costing questions were sent to Fabio, from which he put together a package of information on material lengths with prices per metre and delivery lead times etc. Rita ordered a number of items which were delivered in November 2017. Her customers loved the results! Rita’s strategy was well thought out. ‘I believe that I would not push the scarves to be a massproduced item; as this would leave Nomad vulnerable to potential returns from customers suggesting that the item is not to standard. Hence, I will sell the product (examples below) to like-minded customers who will appreciate the beauty and uniqueness of each piece,’ she said.
Scarves using Fabio’s fabrics
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TIMESCALE The concept was first discussed between the Textile Centre and PRATO in March 2017, with the visit to Prato taking place in April. Both Rita and Fabio had very busy schedules so the chance to meet up in Athens in June was a perfect opportunity to meet and discuss business ideas, assisted by TCBL when translation was required. The first transaction was completed by September with a follow-up in November. Further business opportunities are under exploration during 2018.
LESSONS LEARNED The value of TCBL as an intermediary in Italy and England was evident from the beginning. TCBL brought Fabio and Rita together in the first place. Fabio is a busy man; Rita is a busy woman; timescales changed and there were occasional translation hiccups and differences in understanding over who was to do what and when. One of these occurred with the initial despatch of the samples from Italy to the UK: Fabio believed that Rita would pay the costs of the transportation; Rita was waiting for Fabio to have the material delivered. In the end, TCBL, via PRATO, was able to organise and pay for the initial package in order to make it happen quickly.
FUTURE PLANS What have been produced so far have been one-offs but this suits Rita’s business and the needs of her clientele perfectly. It utilises the short run lengths of Fabio’s materials and offers both the means of doing new business for a ready-made audience. What began as two businesses with no knowledge of each other looks like developing into a long-lasting, fruitful relationship that is responsible for creating long-lasting, high quality garments that will be worn and treasured by their owners.
TESTIMONIALS Rita pointed out that ‘working with an artisan like Fabio, I have set the bench lower than with my larger fabric suppliers as it is not mass production. I see the beauty and USP of the garments and fabrics are the relationship between myself at Nomad, a small atelier, and Fabio, an artisan fabric maker. I believe this is the only way to approach this venture and to also promote the product as such.’ TCoE Managing Director Bill Macbeth commented, “The likelihood of two specialist operators like Fabio and Rita meeting up and doing business without an intermediary organisation like the TCBL labs is highly unlikely. This business relationship has brought together two people from different sides of the industry and created a new business model that is unique – demonstrating how re-worked textile materials can be much more than insulating material, much more than filling for cushions and duvets. With creativity, imagination and flair and an expert knowledge of high value, niche, couture markets this new venture has already demonstrated how new thinking can transform the industry.” PRATO’s Besnik Mehmeti strongly supported the work, saying, “This case shows how business opportunities can be created in a profitable and trustful way for both a textile company and a designer. Through this business transaction, the Trafi textile company could have a greater profit than usual and the designer has been able to sell the scarves at a good price due to the
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quality of the fabrics provided. On the other side, both the Municipality of Prato and the Textile Centre of Excellence worked together to build business confidence between Italian and UK companies and they can play this role also in the future.�
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DOCUMENT INFORMATION REVISION HISTORY This Handbook is published as Annex I to TCBL Deliverable 4.3, “T&C Business Systems: Engagement and Impact”. Authors: Athanase Contargyris (MIRTEC), Jesse Marsh (Prato), Bill Macbeth (TCoE) and Filippo Mazzariol (UCV). This document in particular was edited by Bill Macbeth (TCoE) and Maria Adele Cipolla (eZavod) REVISION
DATE
AUTHOR
ORGANISATION
DESCRIPTION
V0.1
07.06.2018
A.Contargyris
MIRTEC
Table of Contents
V0.2
20.06.2018
Maria Adele Cipolla
eZAVOD
Contribution on Independents Case
V0.3
26.06.2018
Bill Macbeth
TCoE
First full draft and Integration of partners inputs
V0.4
30.06.2018
A.Contargyris
MIRTEC
Final draft for review
V0.5
07.08.2018
Jesse Marsh
PRATO
Layout and final edit
STATEMENT OF ORIGINALITY This deliverable contains original unpublished work except where clearly indicated otherwise. Acknowledgement of previously published material and of the work of others has been made through appropriate citation, quotation or both.
COPYRIGHT This work is licensed by the TCBL Consortium under a Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International License, 2015-2016. For details, see http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/ The TCBL Consortium, consisting of: Municipality of Prato (PRATO) Italy; German Institutes for Textile and Fiber Research - Center for Management Research (DITF) Germany; IstitutoSuperiore Mario Boella (ISMB) Italy; Skillaware (SKILL) Italy; Oxford Brookes University (OBU) UK; imec (IMEC) Belgium; Tavistock Institute (TAVI) UK; Materials Industrial Research & Technology Center S.A. (MIRTEC) Greece; Waag Society (WAAG) Netherlands; Huddersfield & District Textile Training Company Ltd (TCOE) UK; eZavod (eZAVOD) Slovenia; ConsorzioArca (ARCA) Italy; Unioncamere del Veneto (UCV) Italy; Hellenic Clothing Industry Association (HCIA) Greece; Sanjotec - Centro Empresarial e Tecnológico (SANJO) Portugal; Reginnova NE (Reginnova) Romania, Centexbel (CTB) Belgium, InstitutFrançais de la Mode (IFM) France, IAAC (FabTextiles) Spain, Cleviria (Cleviria) Italy, and Sqetch (Sqetch) Netherlands.
DISCLAIMER All information included in this document is subject to change without notice. The Members of the TCBL Consortium make no warranty of any kind with regard to this document, including, but not limited to, the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. The Members of the TCBL Consortium shall not be held liable for errors contained herein or direct, indirect, special, incidental or consequential damages in connection with the furnishing, performance, or use of this material.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The TCBL project has received funding from the European Union's Horizon 2020 Programme for research, technology development, and innovation under Grant Agreement n. 646133.
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