Business cases evaluation 2017

TCBL HANDBOOKS

BUSINESS CASES EVALUATION 2017

Co-funded by Horizon 2020

ANNEX 2 TO TCBL D 6.4, 31 JULY 2017

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TABLE OF CONTENTS TABLE OF CONTENTS ............................................................................................................. 2 INTRODUCTION .......................................................................................................................... 4 The TCBL Evaluation .......................................................................................................... 4 The Case studies in the TCBL evaluation ........................................................................... 4 Evaluation Overview ........................................................................................................... 6 The Content of this Handbook ............................................................................................ 7 THE NATURAL COTTON BUSINESS CASE ..................................................................................... 8 Context and Aims ................................................................................................................ 8 Activities To Date .............................................................................................................. 10 Results to Date .................................................................................................................. 12 Emerging Issues and Key Learning .................................................................................. 13 Next Steps ......................................................................................................................... 14 THE SHORT RUNS BUSINESS CASE .......................................................................................... 16 Context and Aims .............................................................................................................. 16 Actors, Roles and Resources ............................................................................................ 17 Activities to Date................................................................................................................ 17 Results to Date .................................................................................................................. 19 Emerging Issues and Key Learning .................................................................................. 21 Next Steps ......................................................................................................................... 21 THE ECO-FRIENDLY PRODUCTION BUSINESS CASE ................................................................... 22 Context and Aims .............................................................................................................. 22 Activities to Date................................................................................................................ 24 Results to Date .................................................................................................................. 25 Emerging Issues and Key Learning .................................................................................. 28 Next Steps ......................................................................................................................... 28 THE BIOSHADES BUSINESS CASE ............................................................................................. 29 Context and Aims .............................................................................................................. 29 Activities to Date................................................................................................................ 31 Results to Date .................................................................................................................. 31 Emerging Issues and Key Learning .................................................................................. 32 Next Steps ......................................................................................................................... 33 THE DIGITAL HERITAGE BUSINESS CASE .................................................................................. 35 Context and aims .............................................................................................................. 35 Activities to Date................................................................................................................ 37 Results to Date .................................................................................................................. 37

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Business Cases Evaluation 2017 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

Emerging Issues and Key Learning .................................................................................. 38 Next Steps ......................................................................................................................... 39 THE INDEPENDENTS BUSINESS CASE ....................................................................................... 40 Context and Aims .............................................................................................................. 40 Activities to Date................................................................................................................ 42 Results to Date .................................................................................................................. 44 Emerging Issues and Key Learning .................................................................................. 47 Next Steps ......................................................................................................................... 47 LIST OF FIGURES ................................................................................................................... 48 DOCUMENT INFORMATION ................................................................................................... 49 Revision History ................................................................................................................ 49 Statement of originality ...................................................................................................... 49 Copyright ........................................................................................................................... 49 Disclaimer .......................................................................................................................... 50 Acknowledgement ............................................................................................................. 50

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INTRODUCTION This handbook is part of a set of documents produced by the TCBL evaluation in mid-2017 as part of its formal annual reporting process. It presents the results and findings to date from the work with and analysis of the TCBL business cases from an evaluation perspective. Also publically avaiLable is a shorter document which presents a snapshot overview of some of the key themes picked up by the TCBL evaluation in the last year.

THE TCBL EVALUATION TCBL is an ambitious and innovative project. A large-scale change effort, it intervenes into the European textiles and clothing (T+C) sector by seeking to create, in an emergent manner, an ecosystem based on open sharing of knew knowledge. Evaluation is critical to supporting this change process as it offers insights and tools that allow individuals, participating enterprises and TCBL as a whole to learn and improve.

In TCBL, evaluation therefore does not just come at the end (as a retrospective tool to assess performance) but is embedded in the project process to support a cycle of continuous data collection, learning and improvement. It therefore has a broad scope and seeks to: help with the design and development of the TCBL change process (‘ex ante evaluation’); monitor and assess progress towards the planned change (developmental and process evaluation); and calculate how far TCBL has travelled on their ‘change journey’ (‘summative evaluation’).

The evaluation of TCBL follows a theory based evaluation design (in particular, applying the tool of ‘theory of change’). This approach is used when, as is the case in TCBL, experimental designs to assess impacts are not methodologically sound as it is not possible to isolate the intervention from its environment to a sufficient degree. Theory of change can be defined as a systematic and cumulative study of the links between the vision and context of a project and its objectives, activities and results. It involves the specification of an explicit theory of how and why an intervention might cause or have caused an effect. This is then tested and refined using both qualitative and quantitative methods to produce a final and tested ‘change story’.

The box below describes the high level TCBL change narrative.

Developing the TCBL ecosystem will facilitate the implementation of realistic experiments of business model innovation. These will produce, co-design), test and validate new and replicable business models that will lead to production of real jobs in real factories, reaching markets in different ways. This will encourage additional stakeholders to join the ecosystem to take advantage of these new business models which will encourage lots of organisations to align with the TCBL principles and scope of activities. This will lead to the evolution of a running business transforming the best outputs into service concepts and value propositions which will lead to broader change in attitudes in the industry. As a result, TCBL is established as a global movement and disruptive change in the sector as a whole is created.

The TCBL high level theory of change

This theory of change method is also applied at the level of the case studies.

THE CASE STUDIES IN THE TCBL EVALUATION Case studies are an important method in the TCBL evaluation and are an integral component of both the process and the outcome evaluation. The process / developmental evaluation maps the evolution of the TCBL ecosystem over time and case studies make an important contribution to this by giving some granularity about the processes and activities as they unfold. Eventually, the case studies will also contribute to understanding what results can be 4

Business Cases Evaluation 2017 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

identified for TCBL overall. By following their evolution for the remainder of the TCBL project we will accumulate a comprehensive dataset which will then contribute to the overall impact assessment of TCBL. However, this handbook explores the case studies from a process perspective.

W HAT ARE THE EVALUATION CASE STUDIES ?

The TCBL evaluation case studies are longitudinal, that is we will track and analyse their evolution and interactions over time. They map onto the business cases currently in implementation: •

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The Natural Cotton business case seeks to exploit the increasing interest of consumers in purchasing ecologically and socially sustainable products. From the manufacturers’ perspective exploiting this trend is challenging because it requires changes in manufacturing practices. From the consumer side, confusing certification schemes make it hard to understand the extent to which a product has been manufactured sustainably. Against this background, this business case has brought together three Greek businesses covering the whole cotton value chain to produce a set of sample garments made from sustainable cotton which can be fully traced from seed to designed product.

The Short Runs business case seeks to address key barriers to short runs production related to the low volume, minimum order quantities, cost of fabrics and low priority of small order quantities. It seeks to create a network of textile and garment manufacturers wanting to produce short runs and designers wanting to sell small quantities of garments and facilitate transactions between them in order to demonstrate new business opportunities, some to be advanced via secure online platforms.

The Eco-friendly production business case aims to build an ecosystem consisting of businesses who share the same vision of creating a more sustainable supply chain.

The case will promote awareness about transparency and sustainability issues for the production of quality products, and will allow enterprises of a given value chain to collect sustainability data/information to make the supply chain more environmentallyfriendly. This will show that a viable alternative to current products, markets and supply chains is possible.

The BioShades business case seeks to address the environmental harm caused by conventional dyeing processes by exploring the feasibility of using dye produced from bacteria on textiles and eventually creating a service offer on this process to support wider take-up.

The Digital Heritage business case aims to exploit the potential value of historical material – sample books and data sheets, in the case of textiles – for designers by raising awareness of the importance of archives and testing/experimenting potential heritage based innovations and creative processes (such as archives digitisation, creative re-interpretation of textile heritage, new marketing strategies based on heritage marketing). The business case aims to highlight the creative potential of new generations of designers; offer innovative approaches to collections; develop new ‘heritage-based’ business models and tools for young professionals in the industry.

Archives therefore represent an opportunity: if they were properly stored, catalogued and digitised they could represent a significant resource for designers.

Independent designers are often more in tune with emerging social and fashion trends, but the fashion world is not made for them as it is geared towards large scale production. The Independents business case seeks to work with, and empower, individuals and small scale textiles and clothing enterprises by helping them improve 5

Business Cases Evaluation 2017 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

their businesses with innovative services. By drawing on the expertise of TCBL Labs and linking them up with other Associate enterprises, the case wants to improve independents’ manufacturing processes and competitiveness to further social and environmental gains.

PROGRESS WITH THE CASE STUDIES SO FAR TCBL partners and associate enterprises involved worked intensively on the business cases between February and June 2017, a period which was preceded by several months work with the first ‘cohort’ of associate enterprises from 2016 which had identified major issues of concern to businesses. At the time of writing this Handbook, the business cases were at different stages of maturity, with some currently in a more exploratory piloting phase and others more developed. Consequently, and as the evaluation case study work is designed to progress over a number of ‘waves’, the focus of reporting in this handbook is very much on the initial set up of the cases, the kind of actors involved, the presenting problem the cases are looking to address as well as the expected change journey. The purpose is to create a ‘baseline’ for subsequent waves of evaluation case study activity. Consequently, the data used to pull together this information are mainly qualitative interviews with key actors in each case, as well as a review of relevant documents.

EVALUATION OVERVIEW Some of the high level themes emerging from the evaluation’s analysis of the business cases so far are: •

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Half of the business cases are led by TCBL Associate Labs (BioShades, Digital Heritage and Independents); the other half is led by TCBL Associate Enterprises (Natural Cotton, Short Runs and Ecofriendly Production). Currently the business cases bring together between three and nineteen TCBL Associates (both Labs and Enterprises) in testing new ways of doing business in the T+C sector.

Each of the TCBL business cases is designed to develop over a number of phases in which – among others – the number of participating members of the TCBL ecosystem is expected to grow significantly. Across the cases, these phases can broadly be characterised as: piloting or demonstrating feasibility of the case (Phase 1); expanding and deepening of the business case colLaboration (Phase 2); and scaling (Phase 3).

In the near future, there are plans to connect the business cases more with each other, for instance linking eco-friendly production with BioShades and the Natural Cotton case.

Early results of the work carried out within the framework of the business cases include: creation of novel supply networks consisting of several TCBL Associate Enterprises and Associate Labs which had not previously worked together; and early signs of outcomes relating to determinants of effective (manufacturing) capacity, including learning gains and some relating to process and external factors (such as standards).

From a more strategic perspective, the cases can be clustered into three groups: those focused on re-structuring the production process for agility and local value (short runs, independents); those focused on value chain re-construction to introduce natural fibres and reduce chemical usage (natural cotton, eco-friendly production); and

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those offering new perceptions of industrial potentials via disruption or tradition (BioShades and Digital Heritage).1 With their activities, the business cases can be expected to make a contribution to the longer term TCBL impact objectives (5% increase in manufacturing capacity; 20 per cent reduction in ecological footprint; creation of new embedded services; and creation of a novel supply network of 1,000 organisations). It is likely that the issues above will influence what, where and how the cases will contribute, but this will be part of the future and ongoing evaluation case study work.

THE CONTENT OF THIS HANDBOOK This handbook then presents each of the six case business cases from an evaluation perspective. Each chapter focuses on a different case study, and analyses this through the theory of change framework chosen for the TCBL evaluation as a whole to offer readers a systematic narrative of the change aspirations and results achieved by each of the cases. The order in which the cases are presented follows the order in which they are listed above and on the TCBL website.

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See TCBL D9.5

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THE NATURAL COTTON BUSINESS CASE CONTEXT AND AIMS Consumers are increasingly interested in purchasing ecologically and socially sustainable products rather than making low-cost purchases: a recent survey showed that 51 per cent of European consumers are willing to pay more for sustainable products.2 This creates new business opportunities that are currently not exploited. Moreover, different certification schemes make it difficult for the consumer to understand to what extent the product they purchase has been manufactured in a wholly sustainable manner. The TCBL natural cotton case seeks to address this problem by linking like-minded businesses in a new colLaborative venture to produce fully traceable (and certified) sustainable cotton products which can be sold at a fair price. Covering the whole value chain, these businesses colLaborate to produce and process cotton which is certified and traceable at each step from ginning through to garment production. As a result, the cotton case can demonstrate the feasibility of sustainable cotton which is produced entirely in the EU thereby setting the scene for an expansion of this experiment to other natural fibres (most notably silk, hemp and citrus fibres). Along the way, the business case will draw on the expertise of TCBL Labs and services to enrich and scale up the work. By locating enterprises in natural fibre value chains more closely together, and avoiding imports and exports from beyond the EU, scaling of production will be facilitated and the case can make a contribution to reducing the environmental impact of textiles production (most notably energy use if transport costs are lower) as well as increasing manufacturing capacity.

The diagram overleaf shows the key phases of the natural cotton business case with a focus on highlighting the key outcomes that are envisaged to be produced in each phase. It highlights that the case is built on successive waves of scaling – both in terms of participating enterprises and in terms of scope (e.g. moving from natural cotton to other natural fibres from mid-June 207 onwards). Through this process of scaling, a contribution to the high level TCBL impacts is envisaged to be made. The diagram overleaf shows the current assumptions on how this could be achieved.

Clutier, D (2017) “SUSTAINABLE FASHION: MARKET AND MARKETING TRENDS” Presentation at #TCBL_2017 Athens (https://myminds.be/share/page/site/tcbl/documentdetails?nodeRef=workspace://SpacesStore/473c4cf8-8807-49ef-a62b-d73ccb178d4f) 2

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Figure 1: Key outcomes of the three cotton case phases

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ACTIVITIES TO DATE In order to work towards the envisaged Phase 1 results, participants in the Greek cotton case carried out the following key sets of activities between 2016 and 2017 (these are also shown in the diagram below).

Mapping the case and identifying and bringing together relevant and interested TCBL Associate Enterprises. This was preceded by a comprehensive set of planning and design activities to scope feasibility for the case using TCBL business services Strategyzer and Orchestrator (see figure below). Sparked by the presentation of Thrakika Ekkokistiria S.A during #TCBL_2016 about their passion for promoting the use of quality Greek cotton 3, these tools were used to map out the case from a business perspective and detailing the workflow.

Subsequent scoping of the business interests, activities and motivations for joining TCBL of Associates who joined as a result of the first call in 2016 (using information of the application form they had provided) led to the identification of two further Greece-based businesses to together form a colLaboration which would cover the whole cotton value chain (growing, ginning, spinning, designing / manufacturing). These businesses share key relevant values and interests, most notably: all expressed an interest in forming new business relationships as part of their TCBL membership, and all were used to colLaborating with other businesses at the time of joining (but had not worked with each other before); all have quality at the heart of their production (“in everything we do, quality is in the front of our minds�, Ioanna Kourbela designer brand at #Athens_2017), accompanied by a strong ecological and social sustainability ethos.

Figure 2: Mapping of the natural cotton busines case workflow and use of TCBL Business Services using Orchestrator (September 2016)

Initiating and implementing the colLaboration. This involved a workshop in late-January 2017 (in the framework of the Exhibition of Athens Fashion) where the three interested business could meet each other and start discussing the pilot experiment to be implemented

by June 2017. In a number of subsequent (online) meetings, the practical details of implementing the case were negotiated. This included: specifying the requirements (in terms of quality, quantity of material to be supplied and price) for the spinned cotton to be provided to the fashion design house (Ioanna Kourbela designer brand) by the spinning factory; 3

See presentation here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/fqt8gnwqtgcq0hd/TCBL2016_Jam%203.pdf?dl=0

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negotiation of the volume and price of the certified sustainable fibres cotton to be supplied by the ginning factory (Thrakika Ekkokistiria S.A.) to the spinning factory (Varvaressos); delivery times of the raw materials and starting time of production of the samples in time for #TCBL_2017. The sample collection will be accompanied by a full documentation of the tracing of the origin of the cotton used and the certifications attached to this specific cotton.

The creation of a special tag “I am sustainable” is explored, and a reference to TCBL may also be made.

Figure 3: Core ingredients of the natural cotton business case 2016/2017

Market testing demand for the sample collection. Following the production of the ninepiece black and white sample collection for #TCBL_2017, Ioanna Kourbela designer brand are taking the collection to their customer (stores in Greece and around the world) worldwide in order to offer an opportunity to place orders and also talk about this TCBL initiative “to help them understand”. As part of this the economic viability of a fully traceable sustainable and eco-friendly garment will be tested.

Figure 4: Ioanna Kourbela designer brand sample collection produced as a result of the TCBL Natural Cotton case, on display at #TCBL_2017

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Business Cases Evaluation 2017 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

RESULTS TO DATE TCBL is working towards four high level impacts: 5% increase in manufacturing capacity; reducing the eco footprint of the industry by 20%; creating new embedded services; and developing a novel supply network of 1,000 organisations. The cotton business case is seeking to contribute to these high level impacts by scaling up and out its work on natural fibres value chains over three phases: •

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Phase 1: Pilot experiment. Testing the idea of a fully sustainable and certified natural fibres value chain using Greek cotton. This phase ends with #TCBL_2017 where a garment using certified sustainable cotton from seed onwards will be presented.

Phase 2: Expansion and extension. The number of TCBL associate enterprises participating in the cotton case expands and similar value chains are initiated for silk, hemp and fibres from citrus fruits.

Phase 3: Scaling. This phase essentially involves scaling production and identifying and selling to new markets creating the pre-conditions for sustainability of the value chains created during TCBL.

As for all the other cases it is relatively early stages, but some early results can already be observed. At the end of the pilot experiment phase, the natural cotton case delivers concrete evidence of having initiated a novel supply network consisting of three values driven TCBL associate enterprises covering the whole cotton value chain. These have practically colLaborated and succeeded in producing a sample collection made from cotton that can be traced along the whole value chain. The novelty of the supply network is twofold: not only have these businesses not had a commercial relationship with each other before, it is also an exclusively Greek business network. By dealing directly with each other and using a domestic product, the need for intermediaries linking domestic / EU produces and third country producers / manufactures was not needed. Indeed, opening up new markets was a key motivator for one of the businesses participating. Moreover, the Athens Design Lab brought their links to industry and design expertise to the case.

There is currently no evidence that the cotton case has led to an increase in manufacturing capacity to date (measured in outputs), though some learning gains about working with new businesses are likely to have occurred. There is potential for the case to lead to increases in manufacturing capacity, measured in increased outputs produced, if the design business receives orders from buyers over the coming months on the basis of the samples produced (this then also evidencing the market potential for sustainable and certified garments of European origin). However, this will rely on production (both of the yarn and of the garments) being in addition to, and not displacing, existing production. If we broaden our definition and understand capacity as “a system's potential for producing goods or delivering services over a specified time interval”, then it is possible that participation in the case may then yield further learning gains about colLaboration, marketing techniques such as what tags to use to signal to the customer the sustainable nature of the garments [case study interview and presentation at #TCBL_Athens] and logistics of garment storage [case study interview].

A number of TCBL business services were drawn on primarily to design the case and explore and learn about their potential value. Strategyzer proved valuable as a colLaborative and communication tool; Orchestrator was useful to map out the process for the business case.

However, it would appear that more use and learning about the different technologies is needed to work out whether and how they could become part of an integral TCBL service offer on natural fibres value chains.

In relation to the results to be achieved at the end of the first phase as illustrated in the figure below, we can conclude that the first two have been achieved. It is too early to come to a 12

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conclusion on results 3-5 as these seem to be essentially dependent on the success of the sample collection produced as a result of the case. The last result (new Associate Enterprises interested in joining) will also only become evident over the next months as activities to scale up the case start.

Figure 5: Natural cotton busienss case phase one activities and envisaged results

EMERGING ISSUES AND KEY LEARNING The main learning points / observations that have emerged from the case so far are: •

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Commitment to the experimentation is an important success factor. For each of the participating enterprises, involvement so far was an investment (e.g. in time or modifying standard production processes), undertaken with the intention of realising a new business opportunity. For instance, the participating design business organised its own production unit for a short run production of the specific samples only. Having a committed lead individual among the participating Associate Enterprises (therefore) helped to keep the momentum going.

It would also seem at this point that sharing the same values and colLaborative ways of working were an enabling factor for this colLaboration and also needed to be matched by commercial / business considerations. The commercial and relational implications of this new partnership needed to be worked through as part of the case study set up.

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Business Cases Evaluation 2017 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs •

In this initial piloting phase the TCBL Business Services technologies Strategyzer and Orchestrator were useful for mapping out the case (from different perspectives). Going forward, Thela is seen as to be particularly relevant as a tool for recognising sustainability across the value chain.

NEXT STEPS The cotton case is currently in the process of transitioning to Phase 2 “Expansion and extension”. This will involve three sets of activities: •

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Adding more associate enterprises to the cotton case who add new experimentations.

For instance, 29 of the new Associate Enterprises added to the TCBL network with the 2017 call expressed ‘very high interest’ (in terms of the fit with their own business) in the natural cotton case.

Greater use of TCBL resources (Labs and other business cases, business services Adding three more supply chain cases (silk, hemp, citrus fruit fibres)

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Figure 6: From Phase 1 to Phase 2 of the Cotton case

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THE SHORT RUNS BUSINESS CASE CONTEXT AND AIMS Short run production, especially artisan and bespoke orders, allow for a more personal design style or made to order services or, more generally, a promotion of exclusivity. These factors can be accommodated or exploited by any size business. However, there are a number of barriers to short run production that are related to the low volume production and the way the production is organised. It is for example often not possible for small businesses working within short run production to reach the minimum order quantities. From the perspective of an individual designer the issue is often finding a manufacturer that is willing to work in small volumes. Other issues are that the costs of fabrics and other materials are higher in smaller quantities, manufacturers need up-front payment, small volume orders get a low priority in the production planning, and that the buying power is often not high enough to ensure good quality of the products. These issues were raised by industry experts during discussions led by TCBL partners.

TCBL’s short run production offers a solution to the above challenges by developing a network of textile and garment manufacturers wanting to produce short run capacity and designers wanting to sell small quantities. TCBL further offers its knowledge, existing services, and integrated Labs to address these issues related to short runs and to provide a holistic service.

TCBL partners have identified a number of businesses that are willing to participate as textile manufacturers, garment manufacturers or designers. The participants are from the UK, Italy, Slovenia and Romania. More than ten practical transactions between manufacturers and designers were identified with most initiated and currently in development.

One aim is to facilitate these transactions in order to demonstrate new business opportunities where none existed previously, for whatever reason: lack of knowledge, lack of expertise etc..

Some of these opportunities will be advanced via secure online platforms, some not; TCBL partners do not expect that a one-size solution will meet all needs and are currently reviewing existing online platforms in order to understand the functionalities short runs transactions require.

Figure 7 below presents the approach of the business case short runs with TCBL at its centre.

Figure 7: Representation of TCBL short run production approach

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Business Cases Evaluation 2017 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

ACTORS, ROLES AND RESOURCES The short run business case draws on knowledge and services provided by TCBL. Essential to the business case’s success are contacts with manufacturers and designers gained through TCBL Labs and Associates.

A large number of TCBL partners are supporting the business case. The TCoE is taking the lead on this business case; other partners that are involved directly are UCV, ARCA, Prato, eZavod, Sqetch and Reginnova. TCoE, ARCA, eZavod and Fashion Enter represent TCBL Labs at the same time, located in England, Italy and Slovenia. On the other side, there are a number of information providers, manufactures and designers that are interested in participating in the business case.

The role of information providers is to offer the possibility of a secure method for textile and clothing organisation to make transactions. Seven online information/service providers have been identified that could potentially provide some of the functionalities desired. These are Sqetch, Pratoexpo, FCfabric, LeSouk, Let’s make it here, Make it British and Fashion Valley.

Most of these are currently not part of the TCBL ecosystem. TCBL partner Sqetch on the other hand is a business service with the offer of putting textiles and clothing brands and manufacturers in touch with each other. These functionalities range from matchmaking facility and search option for manufacturers/designers to full European coverage and minimum order information. Sqetch is currently trialing online purchasing methods. The online platforms are a crucial part of the approach as this offers the space for matchmaking opportunities. Designers can offer work, while manufacturers can apply for the work. The aim of such platform(s) is to also create a community of textile and clothing organisations who could combine multiple demands to satisfy minimum order thresholds or reduced unit price to address some of the barriers to short runs production. On the other hand designers can group their work together to increase buying power. As part of the online platforms business tools shall be provided to help control the quality of products and the cooperation between sellers and buyers.

However, not every transaction will be completed via an online platform. That is why the experience of networks of TCBL Labs involved in this business case and TCBL Associate Enterprises are particularly important to ensure smooth transactions by providing language and cultural support. The function of TCBL Labs and Associates is to draw on their networks and experience to identify manufacturers with spare capacity and link them with each other and designers.

ACTIVITIES TO DATE The diagram below presents what main activities will be implemented in each of the three phases.

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As a first step discussions with industry representatives in five countries about challenges related to short runs took place. To identify barriers for businesses working in T&C was critical for the business case in order to support businesses overcome these issues.

The approach to develop a new short run production model was then refined (over several meetings and discussions with participating partners) and evolved into the development of a series of differing, but related production models with knowledge transfer input where required.

Phase 1a and Phase 1b are occurring simultaneously. In Phase 1b manufacturers and designers that are interested in participating were identified. In Phase 1a online

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services of the seven identified information/service providers were compared on a number of criteria.

Figure 8: Activities per phase Activities in these phases are expected to lead to a number of results which will then aim to contribute to the high level TCBL impacts (see Figure 8). As not every transaction will be completed via an online platform Phase 2 is not a requirement for all transactions.

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Figure 9: Outcomes per phase

RESULTS TO DATE The short runs business case seeks to develop a new model of short runs production drawing on TCBL services and knowledge to enhance match making possibilities between designers and manufacturers. The development of the business case can be described in three phases, though these are not sequential but will overlap to a large extent: •

Phase 1 – Development of network: Drawing on existing contacts from TCBL Labs and Enterprises to identify a number of textile and clothing organisations that are interesting to be part of the short runs business case, allied business support systems and creating links between them.

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Phase 2 – Online platform(s): Use existing online platform(s) that offers matchmaking opportunities with all needed functionalities.

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Phase 3 – Scaling: Involve a larger number of organisations and process transactions via various platforms(s)

A number of early stage results have been achieved so far, related both to the business case’s envisaged phase 1 results and the TCBL high-level outcomes of newly embedded services and the creation of a novel supply network.

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Business Cases Evaluation 2017 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

As regards the latter, over 100 manufacturers and designers from four different countries have been identified and a number of them are already in the process of implementing first examples of transactions between manufacturers and designers. Of the 2017 Associate Enterprises, 31 expressed ‘very high interest’ in the short runs case.

As regards results related to the creation of new embedded services, the following achievements are noteworthy.

Ten examples of real-time business transactions are currently in development. Various TCBL partners support these transaction by providing knowledge and facilitating the actual transaction. The ten examples range from within-country to cross-country transactions. One example is a group of different British designers who are combining their orders to be able to buy fabrics in a larger volume than they would have done individually. TCoE and Prato are facilitating this business transaction.

Moreover, six stages from design to fulfilment process flow (i.e., sale) have been formulated as the approach for business generation where textile clothing is concerned. Not every action per stage needs to be taken by every business but they provide guidance for businesses about the production cycle. The six stages are: • • • • • •

Stage 1: Idea Stage 2: Design Stage 3: Design development Stage 4: Preparing for production Stage 5: Production 1-25pcs Stage 6: Production 26-200pcs

The game of snakes and ladders provides a metaphor for these non-sequential aspects, a point which appeared to resonate with the audience at TCBL_2017.

Figure : Illustration of complexity and non-linearity of the Short Runs business case

The intention is that many transactions can be processed via an online platform. The seven identified information/service providers offer different functionalities but none is deemed to 20

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provide all the functionalities needed. TCBL partner Sqetch is currently developing their platform in order implement required functionalities. Sqetch is further exploring a Quality Assurance mechanism, Options for future income generation, creating user communities, involving financial partner for insurance options and the Education Academy function.

EMERGING ISSUES AND KEY LEARNING The following key learning points have emerged from the short runs business case so far.

Essential for the development of the business case are the existing contacts from TCBL partners, Associates and Enterprises. A key element is to have the network partially in place to ease the process of match-making between manufacturers and designers and do this in a timely manner. The role of TCBL is then to put the different businesses in contact and bring them together. One requirement for the businesses to be involved is the ability and willingness to colLaborate with others. A main element of this business case is to create relationships between businesses in order to implement transactions. There a self-selecting mechanism at play as those who do not want to work together will not become part of the network.

One of the current challenges is to manage the large number of businesses and other organisations that are involved. Currently, a potential 100+ manufactures/designers, 7 information providers and TCBL Labs and Associate Enterprises are in scope. TCoE is mainly responsible for managing the organisations involved. This is a very time-consuming task that requires a lot of communication, not only at the current stage of the development of the current examples of real-time business transactions but in the future also.

The role of TCBL as a strategic partner should not be underestimated in the promotion of collaborative approaches across Europe. In particular, it is the local partners that can provide the linguistic interface that could be crucial in many transactions. Many existing TCBL members have a good command of English and can function effectively in European business transactions; however, many – perhaps a majority – of others cannot. This cannot be solved easily by online and automated processes but it can be eased or facilitated directly via TCBL partners and members. This is the case currently in Italy, Romania and Slovenia.

NEXT STEPS There have been slight delays in the original plan of the business case. One reason for this is that the business transactions are real-time transactions which are balanced alongside the demands of everyday business for those involved. Further, it should be borne in mind that collaborative approaches, cultural and language differences all require time and expertise to minimise the risk of failure. The next steps will therefore consist: • • •

Completion of the ongoing example transaction by the end of 2017; Development of the online-platform by Sqetch and the additional possibilities will be ongoing; Invite new TCBL Associate Members to participate in short runs and create new transactions and, potentially, new models;

Ongoing is also the identification of further organisation that are interested in getting involved.

One example is a workshop in September organised by Sqetch and Fashion Angel to bring all London based users of the Sqetch platform together to extend the network and offer them business support.

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THE ECO-FRIENDLY PRODUCTION BUSINESS CASE CONTEXT AND AIMS Today, consumers have very limited knowledge about the sustainability and quality of the clothing they buy and wear. The aim of this Business Case is to build an ecosystem consisting of businesses who share the same vision of creating a more sustainable supply chain. In so doing, the case will promote awareness about transparency and sustainability issues (environmental, social and economic) for the production of quality products (for example, by trying to eliminate –rather than just reduce- chemicals in production), and will allow enterprises of a given value chain to collect sustainability data/information to make the supply chain more environmentally-friendly. This will show that a viable alternative to current products, markets and supply chains is possible, also allowing partners who share similar concerns for sustainability to redesign current textile supply chains. Based on a ‘change management’ approach, the case will focus on: environmental issues (e.g. use of resources, emissions, chemicals etc); phases of textile production (design, finishing, dyeing, drying); end products (e.g. textiles); and mobilising enterprises across the value chain (fibre-thread-fabrics).

The figure below shows the key phases of the eco-friendly business case: for each phase, a number of activities can be identified alongside the results that each phase can be expected to yield. The case goes from setting up the conditions for experimentation towards mobilising organisations at different positions in the value chain, and then further expanding the number of actors involved as well as the products.

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Figure 10: Ecofriendly production business case: activiites and results

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Business Cases Evaluation 2017 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

ACTIVITIES TO DATE The business case is currently in its initial set-up phase working towards the envisaged Phase 1 results, which set the conditions for the next stages. Between 2016 and July 2017, the following activities have been carried out: •

•

•

Defining the case’s approach, and actors to involve: The case’s approach revolves around identifying a commercial product (fabrics) and value chain nodes / enterprises; defining an agreed protocol for data collection across the value chain and data collection templates specific to each phase or node of the value chain; implementing the protocol and certifying the process. Different sets of actors have been identified and will be involved for each element of the approach (as the figure below illustrates).

Kick-starting the collaboration: case leads spent some time contacting and engaging with enterprises in this area of work (sustainability) and have been working with Process Factory (http://www.processfactory.it/en/), a consultancy firm (and one of TCBL’s Associate Enterprises) that supports businesses to (among other things) comply with legislative provisions and to plan for sustainability. Process Factory is linked to 4Sustainability, a network of experts that aims to support companies – particularly those operating in the fashion industry- in their organisation and processes management and sustainability policies (www.4sustainability.it) in order to make sustainability a factor for strategic growth. Process Factory / 4Sustainability are the actors that will develop the protocol for data collection across the value chain and the data collection templates specific to each phase or node of the value chain. In addition, TCBL’s business service Thela – Cleviria’s supply chain management platform- will be used to implement the protocol; finally, the case will extend to TCBL Labs to interact with value chain nodes for increased value added in terms of innovative sustainable alternatives / design for sustainability.

Agreeing and developing a protocol for data collection across the value chain as well as data collection templates specific to each phase of the value chain (which, further down the line, will be implemented via the TCBL business service Thela).

The figure below graphically illustrates the case’s approach and the key actors involved at each point.

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Business Cases Evaluation 2017 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

Source: https://www.slideshare.net/TCBLProject/news-v4

•

Finally, case leads are currently developing a detailed action plan for the business case, which will then be shared with TCBL partners, Labs and enterprises so that the case can be extended to the wider TCBL community. In addition, plans are in place to hire an external company to develop the protocol (by the end of July) and for the process to be completed by September 2017.

RESULTS TO DATE The development and journey of the eco-friendly business case can be mapped out in three phases: •

Phase 1 – Project set-up and definition of the value chain, which includes defining the business case, the actors to involve, and developing the protocol for data collection across the value chain.

•

Phase 2 – Involvement of organisations, which is essentially about mobilising organisations at different positions in the value chain, collecting data on sustainability and extending the case to other TCBL associates.

•

Phase 3 – Scaling up and out, which is about identifying other products and their corresponding value chains as well as further expanding the number of actors involved.

The figure below illustrates these stages and the activities which each of them.

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Business Cases Evaluation 2017 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

Figure 11 Activities per phase

To date, the case has focused on creating the ground-work for the experimentation to start, as this is the pre-condition for the next phases. More specifically, development is nearing completion of phase 1 and working towards phase 2, which will also kick start the experimentation.

Case leads have defined some initial Key Performance Indicators (KPIs), including improved sustainability parameters –for example, chemicals, resources and emissions- which can potentially contribute to TCBL’s wider aim of a reduction of the environmental footprint; the number of value chains (and number and type of TCBL services used), related to the creation of new embedded services; finally, the case is gearing up towards stimulating collaboration between a numbers of actors in the ecosystem, which, in the phases that will follow, would contribute to the creation of ‘novel supply network of 1,000 organisations’ (that can be traced through the number of Labs, associate enterprises, service SMEs participating in the case).

Because increasing sustainability of T&C production involves taking into account all stages of production and distribution, a variety of enterprises can potentially be interested in this business case. The TCBL ecosystem already includes a number of actors at different stages of the value chain (e.g. producing the fibre, the thread, the fabric etc), some of whom have already expressed interest in being involved in this case. This number is set to expand through the involvement of additional businesses, Labs, service providers, designers as the case moves forward. For instance, 37 of the Associate Enterprises who joined the TCBL ecosystem in 2017 were ‘very interested’ in the eco-friendly production case at application stage.

The figure overleaf illustrates the broad results that can be expected for each phase.

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Figure 12 Results per phase

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Business Cases Evaluation 2017 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

EMERGING ISSUES AND KEY LEARNING The following key learning points can be identified: •

•

The first important lesson so far has been that getting businesses involved required a process of trust building between case leads (the Municipality of Prato) and businesses themselves. This was time-consuming but is crucial in order to gain the necessary buy-in and to pull together the business case. This also speaks to the different time-frames required when there may not be strong existing relationships already in place.

The second lesson is that a high level of commitment to –or an interest in– “doing something different” appears to be required: if enterprises’ activities chime with an ‘experimentation ethos’ and / or if enterprises are sensitised to a particular issue, they see the value in investing resources to a piloting process more readily and are, overall, less likely to pull out. TCBL therefore presented the opportunity to continue this work through experimenting in the business case and with the Municipality of Prato’s support. This business case’s leads are indeed currently publishing a tender/Call for Interest to attract organisations that are committed to this line of work.

NEXT STEPS Upcoming activities include (between July 2017 and July 2018): finalising agreement with IT company; having a defined data collection protocol in place by end of September; and widening the number of participating organisation by identifying and involving textile manufacturing firms that have an interest in, and track record of, sustainability processes who can take a lead in the experimentation and involving TCBL Laboratories.

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THE BIOSHADES BUSINESS CASE CONTEXT AND AIMS The dyeing process is hugely harmful to the environment due to the amount of water and chemicals it uses. Bacteria producing pigment can offer an alternative to conventional dyeing, but the feasibility for industry of using this method has so far not been explored in depth. The TCBL BioShades experiment is a research project which brings together the expertise of a number of TCBL Labs and associate enterprises to: examine how a range of bacteria dye different types of fabric, test the dye for compliance with relevant standards, involve associate enterprises in using bacterial dye in their settings / industrial processes and document the processes to develop a new business model around bacterial dyeing. By developing an integrated service offer around bacterial dyeing which brings together relevant TCBL associates some of the logistical challenges of using bacteria to dye material will be overcome and wider / lasting take-up encouraged.

The diagram overleaf shows the key phases of the BioShades business case with a focus on highlighting the key outcomes that are envisaged to be produced in each phase. It highlights that the case is built on a successive waves of capacity building and scaling. Through this process, a contribution to the four high level TCBL impacts is envisaged to be made.

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Figure 13: Results phases for the BioShades Business Case

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Business Cases Evaluation 2017 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

ACTIVITIES TO DATE So far, the BioShades business case has carried out the following sets of activities (these are also shown in the diagram below) which cover Phase 1 of its activities and also flow over into phase 2: •

•

•

• •

Preparatory work to test the feasibility in principle to use bacteria for dyeing textiles.

This included testing the colour produced by two types of bacteria with silk in order to find out whether the colour fixes. Ongoing background research and collation of relevant scientific material.

Testing of the dyed material for compliance with key industry standards (washing fastness, dry and wet abrasion, colour fastness at acidic and alkaline perspiration and under water) and production of related documentation.

Initiation of a test on industrial premises. This involved recruitment of a TCBL Associate Enterprise to test the dye on their industrial premises and identification of an external Lab that can turn the liquid bacterial dye into powder. This process is currently ongoing.

Identifying possible Lab collaborators with specific microbiology expertise to support scaling of the case.

Working with TCBL business services, e.g.: recruitment of contributors to the _zine issue on bacteria dying; creation of bioshades and biohacking tags in the knowledge spaces , discussions with TCBL partner DITF on a method for assessing the ecological impact of the case.

In the next section we discuss the results that have been achieved be the business case so far.

Figure 14:Bacteria dyed silk fabric (source: Mirtec report on colour change and staining of bacteria dyed silk fabric)

RESULTS TO DATE The BioShades business case seeks to achieve results and contribute to TCBL high level impacts by evolving and scaling its work over three phases:

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Business Cases Evaluation 2017 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs •

• •

Phase 1: Proof of concept phase to implement a number of tests to explore compatibility of bacteria dyed silk with industry standards (e.g. colour change and staining).

Phase 2: Testing for scalability phase – widening the network and adding microbiology expertise to widen scope and scale of testing.

Phase 3: Scaling up and out. Creation of a network of bio labs to supply bacteria for dyeing to TCBL Associate Enterprises who use the dye commercially.

The case has achieved initial results related to the TCBL objective of creating a ‘novel supply network of 1,000 organisations’ – by stimulating a collaboration between three Labs and one TCBL associate enterprise. This network is set to grow over the next years. One indication of this is, for instance, the interest shown by the Associate Enterprises who joined the TCBL ecosystem in 2017: 13 expressed a ‘very high interest’ in the case, eight being ‘quite interested’. Critical success factors for the case in the next year are thus adding three Labs into the network and the inclusion of a microbiology expert into the leading Lab’s business case team. We can also observe some early signs of outcomes relating to determinants of effective (manufacturing) capacity.4 For instance, the BioShades business case has already established the compliance of the dyed material with key standards and is now working on improving the process of dyeing at a larger scale on industrial premises, hence working with external factors such as quality and performance standards. The case has also succeeded in achieving all of its phase 1 results and is now working towards those in Phase 2.

EMERGING ISSUES AND KEY LEARNING The key learning from the BioShades business case so far is that in order to advance the work and achieve the envisaged results, the leading Lab’s access to micro-biology expertise needs to be enhanced. Working with bacteria gets technical very quickly and hence requires relevant academic training. The case is seeking to bring in this technical expertise in two ways: • •

Inclusion of a paid microbiology expert into the core team leading the case in order to carry out more specific texts on the lifecycle of bacteria that produce pigment.

Widening the network of collaborators on the case to include at least three further Labs with a high level of expertise on the subject, both from within and outside the TCBL ecosystem. Having this wider network of collaborators on board will mean that the necessary research work on bacteria dyeing can be shared allowing for a faster production of results (e.g. because these participating Labs have access to more and different bacteria producing more colours which they can use to implement relevant tests and experiments).

Having these relationships in place is also currently seen as a key success factor if the case is to achieve its envisaged results.

The case is beginning to point towards some practical challenges with testing and eventually using bacteria dyeing at a more industrial scale. The first one is about the challenges of transporting bacterial liquid (in terms of the weight, volume and hazardous nature of the liquid). In order to implement the testing foreseen for phase 1 it was therefore necessary to make links with a biotechnology Lab outside of TCBL to convert the coloured bacteria culture into powder. This means the larger volume testing of the bacterial dye will now take place in phase two of the case. The second challenge for industrial application will be identifying an organisation or organisations (possibly a biotechnology business) able to grow sufficient

4

https://ids355.wikispaces.com/Ch.+5+Strategic+Capacity+Planning+for+Products+and+Services

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Business Cases Evaluation 2017 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

quantities (and colours) of bacteria so that it can become a credible replacement of conventional dyes. This may happen as a result of activities in the next phases.

Linked to this, there is learning about the value of the diversity of the Labs participating in TCBL and their potential role in the TCBL ecosystem. By linking a more experimental Lab (Waag Design Lab which offered the initial idea out of an interest in the dyeing process and drawing on their playful / experimental strengths) with a more practical Lab with relevant machinery and industry contacts (Mirtec make Lab) via the business case project, quite abstract ideas such as bacteria dyeing can be moved beyond the experimental stage and brought closer to industry’s needs – in this case testing dyed material for compliance with standards. Thus, the case is also an example of how links and relationships by different types of actors in the TCBL ecosystem can support and perhaps accelerate the jump from small scale experimentation to testing at industrial premises.

Finally, TCBL business services are set to gain in importance to the business case going forward. There is an expectation that TCBL knowledge spaces will become repositories for research results on the case, e.g. types of bacteria tested, patents and test results. A _zine issue is in preparation and bpsquare may be used in the coming phases.

NEXT STEPS The BioShades business case is currently implementing activities leading towards the Phase 2 results and continuing to work on solving the testing challenges with the TCBL Associate Enterprise that was to be implemented in Phase 1. The three key activities for the case coming up are: •

• • • •

Increasing access to microbiology expertise and generally attracting more collaborators, e.g. from the pool of Associate Enterprises interested in the case and a collaborative effort with other TCBL partners Converting the liquid bacterial dye into powder and carrying out a larger test Expanding the range of material on which the bacterial dye is tested Awareness raising activities such as production of a TCBL _zine issue and implementation of a ‘provocation action’ Recruiting further Labs and Associate Enterprises to the case.

The next phases are also likely to see a greater use of TCBL business services, in particular vDiscover, as well as collaboration with DITF on energy efficiency measurement.

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Figure 15: the first two results phases and related activities of the bioshades business case

34

THE DIGITAL HERITAGE BUSINESS CASE CONTEXT AND AIMS Textile and Clothing (T&C) archives can be an important source of inspiration for the design of contemporary collections. However, de-industrialisation has caused a loss of textiles archives and there is a general lack of a conservation culture in the industry. While some companies have maintained their historical archives, these are poorly accessible. This material – sample books and data sheets, in the case of textiles – is of great value, as it can preserve, and transmit, technical know-how. Indeed, textile archives have an increased role in providing inspiration and competitive advantage in corporate marketing strategies (i.e. heritage marketing). Archives therefore represent an opportunity: if they were properly stored, catalogued and digitised they could represent a significant resource for designers.

Within this context, the digital heritage business case, led by the Municipality of Prato and TCBL’s Design Lab based in the Textile Museum of Prato, aims to exploit this potential by: raising awareness of the importance of archives, and testing/experimenting potential heritagebased innovations and creative processes (such as archives digitisation, creative reinterpretation of textile heritage, new marketing strategies based on heritage marketing). The aim is to highlight archive’s creative potential; offer innovative approaches to collections; develop new ‘heritage-based’ business models and tools for young professionals in the industry. Over time, the business case will draw on wider TCBL Labs, partners and enterprises to scale up the work.

It should be noted that the Digital Heritage business case brings together two projects – CreativeWear and TCBL, which are complementary. CreativeWear aims to recover and valorise the design heritage and tacit “making” knowledge of T&C in Mediterranean cultures through a focus on creativity and small-scale production for territorially specific value chains. It does so through a network of Creative Hubs that experiment different ways of supporting cooperation between creatives and enterprises. Pilot testing of these approaches will validate new business models for cultural and creative industries that add value to T&C businesses in the Mediterranean. As part of this project, the Heritage Hub in Prato (led again by the City of Prato and the Textile Museum of Prato) will digitalise the local industrial district’s textile heritage (e.g. catalogues, books, samples, collections, etc.) to inspire creativity and a strong Mediterranean identity for new T&C productions. Activities will revolve around piloting tools and services on archives digitalisation (e.g. development of a cataloguing software for museum and company archives which will include a cataloguing campaign and software training; development of small scale collections; heritage marketing and communication strategies). TCBL will provide the opportunity for testing activities through: digitalisation of the Textile Museum’s archives; collaborations with design and fashion design schools and research projects between the TCBL ecosystem and between the Design Lab and pilot companies; awareness-raising activities.

In this sense, CreativeWear will extend TCBL and test adaptation of the TCBL model (which couples Design, Make, and Place Labs with Business Pilots in innovative value chain scenarios) to existing creative clusters (e.g. museums, creative hub, fashion schools) – therefore integrating them into the broader TCBL ecosystem.

The figure overleaf shows the envisaged journey of the business case (activities in bold are the ones related specifically to TCBL).

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Figure 16: Digital Heritage activities and results

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Business Cases Evaluation 2017 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

As the figure above illustrates, this business case will go from its set-up phase, to small-scale experimentation by the initial core set of actors and then scaling up by extending the case to the wider TCBL ecosystem.

ACTIVITIES TO DATE The business case is currently in Phase 1 of its work. Key activities so far have revolved around: •

•

• •

Initiating the collaboration. Currently, key actors are: the Municipality of Prato and the Textile Museum of Prato (Design Lab); the University of Florence in Prato (PIN); an IT company; local textile companies. These actors were identified on the basis of the knowledge and experience required for the business case: PIN brings experience of working with Museums, particularly in the cataloguing of heritage; the IT company will lead the design of the platform, and five textile companies, who expressed interest in customising, using and testing the platform to digitalise their archives) were brought in to represent end-users. This partnership worked together in this the set-up stage of the of the business case, focusing in particular on the co-design of the platform (called Heritage Manager) and its customisation according to the needs of the enterprises.

Involving this number of actors was a deliberate choice, as it would enable the steering of the business case in its initial phases.

The next phase of the case will then see an extension to the wider TCBL ecosystem, involving TCBL partners (for example, Hellenic Clothing Industry Association –HCIA-, Textile Centre of Excellence –TCoE-, ARCA, Unioncamere Veneto, Institut Français de la Mode -IFM) and Design Labs (for example, the Athens Design Lab, FabTextiles, Lanificio Paoletti, TCoE Design Lab) and Associate Enterprises (in the most recent Call for Associate Enterprises, around 50% expressed interest in this business case).

Setting up the platform (including developing the terms of reference and codesigning it) and starting a cataloguing campaign at the Prato Textile Museum.

A set of testing activities via workshops and experimental activities have been facilitated on a range of topics, such as: developing ideas on cultural, promotional activities from archives exploiting social platforms; technical analysis of Museum historical archives; technical design and digital printing; and a two-day creative design methodology workshop aimed at providing tools for archive material reworking as a base for new projects (in collaboration with Lottozero).

RESULTS TO DATE The development of the business case can be described in two phases.

•

Phase 1 – Set-up: Consolidation of first partnership of the case.

•

Phase 2a – Experimenting and scaling up which involved the development of cataloguing software and development of small scale selection of heritage material.

This phase will also see the expansion of the case to the wider TCBL ecosystem.

•

Phase 2b – Further expansion in terms of service users (expanding outside Prato).

The figure below shows what results might be expected at what stages on the journey towards TCBL’s objectives.

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Business Cases Evaluation 2017 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

Figure 17: Digital Heritage results phases

The case is currently about to complete its first phase of the work, having undertaken all the set-up activities required. The second phase of the work will begin in August 2017 which will include the start of experimental activities. Two outcome areas where progress can already be seen relate to the creation of new embedded services, through the release and potential use of platform. In addition, contribution to the novel supply network of 1000 organisations can currently be seen in the initial network of companies brought together in Prato, and in the strong interest expressed by associate enterprises who joined TCBL as a result of the 2017 (16 of the new Associate Enterprises expressed a strong interest in the case; a further 11 were “quite interested”). This is likely to support the expansion of the case in its following phases. Possible additional outcome areas include: shifting to digital images / online service has the potential of reducing the amount of money and energy spent on sending images to stylists as this could be done digitally rather than sending them via a courier (Reduction in the carbon footprint).

EMERGING ISSUES AND KEY LEARNING Key learning points and challenges to date include: •

Two factors have facilitated collaboration for the business case: the first is the commitment to, and interest in, the topic. Digital heritage has been a long-standing idea within this partnership and key actors see this as a priority, which facilitated the

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Business Cases Evaluation 2017 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

•

development of the case; second, strong relationships were already in place, which reduced the (usually long) time required to build them.

Although preserving archival material holds an opportunity which, however, is not common practice, getting enterprises on board has been challenging, due to initial scepticism related to experimenting with a different way of working. In addition, the digital aspect means there is an issue with missing ‘touch’ (visual vs ‘tactile’).

NEXT STEPS Next steps for the Digital Heritage business case will be: •

• •

•

The platform will be released at the end of July and it will be available at the end of August / early September to download. Public seminars / webinars on how to use the software will be undertaken. A selected group of enterprises will then trial the software to experiment on its value-added.

Engagement activities with enterprises are continuing to take place and further down the line the case will be extended to other TCBL members.

Undertaking additional workshops/events: one is currently scheduled for July 2017 (‘Textile Camp’), in collaboration with Lottozero. This will be a 5-day workshop and in depth exploration of archives aimed at students and young designers, and will introduce participants to the design heritage of Prato’s Textile Museum and some of the textile companies that are still active in the city. Others will include: experimental activities on work-related learning with vocational schools; research and prototyping activities; seminars with fashion and textile teachers.

Developing indicators to follow the progress of the case.

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THE INDEPENDENTS BUSINESS CASE CONTEXT AND AIMS Europe is full of small workshops, run by young graduates, alone or in small groups. Each one carries out each of the steps in clothing manufacturing: design, pattern making, prototyping, finding raw materials, manufacturing, and promotion. Currently, the fashion world is not made for them because it is geared towards large scale production (which also creates a lot of waste, with negative impacts on the carbon footprint): fabrics are only available at a decent price in large lots, and price competition is strong. In addition, independent designers are sometimes absorbed into the ‘big brands’, and their talent and work is not visible or recognised. However, independent designers tend to be more in tune with emerging social trends that are looking for personalised, sustainable and ethical clothing. As a collective force, they thus represent a potential to leverage a radical transformation in the fashion world.

Within this context, the TCBL Independents case seeks to work with, and empower, individuals and small scale textile and clothing enterprises by helping them improve their business with innovative services. Labs will support them through: facilitating access to frugal tools (e.g. PatternMaker/Valentina project); improving their efficiency through better workflow management; assisting them to sell their services through e-commerce and logistics platforms (e.g. Etsy, Asos); helping them partner with other Enterprises / TCBL partners to expand their production capabilities; and creating opportunities for networking and building mutual support.

The vision is that this will enable the development of a networked ecosystem of local production; facilitate enterprises’ manufacturing process; increase competitiveness at reasonable prices; transform competition into resource-sharing –turning into social and environmental gains.

The figure overleaf visually represents the business case in its journey from its initial set-up phase, to the activities set out in further stages which aim to create a ‘critical mass’ of interested independents/small enterprises to take part in experimentations.

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Figure 18: TCBL Independents’ business case theory of chnage

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Business Cases Evaluation 2017 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

ACTIVITIES TO DATE The Independents’ case main areas of work so far have revolved around the activities that the case set out to undertake in its initial stages: •

•

• •

Engagement activities to raise awareness of TCBL and connecting workshops and young designers to Place Labs, as these will be the spaces where innovation through the use of new technologies and experimentation of different ways of working will take place.

At the same time, case leads developed and administered a survey to independent designers and producers among the 78 TCBL Associate Enterprises. This was done in order to identify their development needs as well as the potential areas for TCBL support (pattern making software, body scanner services, e-commerce platforms, promotion, quality certification, networking). Pattern-making emerged as an important issue, which the business case therefore prioritised for experimentation. Agreements were then reached with the software provider PatternMaker (a TCBL Associate Service Provider) to obtain trial licenses for TCBL Design and Place Labs. Currently, the software is installed at the Palermo Place Lab, FabLab Venezia, Lottozero Design Lab, and the REDU Place Lab in Romania.

Four webinars were held (in Italian and English) to introduce digital pattern making and, in particular, the MacroGen-PatternMaker software suite.

Case studies were developed with Palermo-based TCBL Associate Enterprises Simona La Torre and MAD (Marzia Donzelli) to: develop new business models (e.g. distributed production, made to measure) using this tool; test production feasibility in different localities (Katty Fashion in Romania and Novara, Italy) with the aim of then testing the viability of made-to-measure.

Other areas of work going forward will include: continuing to undertake awareness-raising activities; creating ‘spaces’ for independents to come together; designing workshops to experiment with body scanners in place Labs; supporting individuals and small enterprises to increase their production capability by using TCBL’s business services such as Sqetch, to ‘match’ manufacturers and designs and clients; and Thela, - Cleviria’s supply chain platform to certify the quality of their products and adherence to environmental and social standards.

The illustration overleaf indicates the activities for each of the phases.

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Figure 19 Independents’ case: activities per phase

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Business Cases Evaluation 2017 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

RESULTS TO DATE The results journey of the case is designed to unfold in three phases: •

•

•

Phase 1: Creating the conditions for experimentation and initial testing. Through ARCA Textile Lab in Palermo, where this case initiated, this phase involved first of all undertaking community engagement activities to raise awareness of the opportunity offered by TCBL, and of the ARCA Textile Lab as a place for experimentation; identifying needs; training in, and then testing, the use and viability of pattern drafting software (through the two independent designers identified as case leads).

Phase 2: Disseminating and developing a network. Testing production feasibility in different localities (Katty Fashion in Romania and Novara, Italy) and the viability of made-to-measure (testing completes). The work continues with the focus on generating a larger network of people who will use the Lab as a place for innovation, joint experimentation and co-working. The number of TCBL partners and associates expands to include the work of other business cases (e.g. bio-shades and natural cotton experimentations).

Phase 3: Scaling up and out, which will continue to focus on the expansion of the business case.

The case is currently in the final stages of phase 1 / initial stage of phase 2 (completion of the small-scale testing of the pattern making software). These initial steps mainly revolved around creating the conditions for experimentation, which means it is too early to identify specific contributions to high-level outcomes.

The business case has completed nearly all activities set out to be achieved in its first phase, which are important steps for the next phases of the case’s journey. The ones that haven’t been finalised (the completion of testing) are due to an issue identified during the trial/use of the software, which generated lead to time being spent on thinking through how to adapt the technology (details in the next section). In addition, the high level of interest that potential Associate Enterprises have expressed in the 2017 Call suggests that there are the foundations that would enable the case to expand and undertake the activities that are set out for the next stages (particularly around the creation of a network).

In addition: •

•

in these early stages, those involved in the case include 2 Associate Enterprises (leading the initial testing of pattern maker experimentation); 1 Associate Lab and 1 Adviser and this number is set to expand in the stages that will follow. Indeed, in the new Call for Associate Enterprises, approximately 80% of applicants (the majority of which are small enterprises) expressed interest in this business case. This links to the TCBL impact target of a novel supply network of 1000 organisations.

The case aims to generate the creation of a network that can translate into being virtuous cycle of support between independent designers. For example, for Made to Measure a designer could get help from someone that is based where the client is based and a peer/colleague there could do the final fitting with the client. This cycle should create a space of trust and create synergies between designers and manufacturers, facilitating the manufacturing process. In the next phases of the work, TCBL’s services Sqetch and Thela will be used to, respectively, find manufacturers for designs and clients for production; and to certify adherence to environmental / social standards. This links to the TCBL objective of creating new embedded services.

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Business Cases Evaluation 2017 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs •

•

The case might make a minor contribution to the increase in manufacturing capacity: supporting the use of more efficient equipment can lower costs and speed-up timings, which can potentially lead to more customer orders, as well as generally making the enterprise stronger.

Reduction of the environmental footprint: there are several ways in which the Independents case might contribute to this objective: a) one of the major sources of environmental impact is not in the production but in the waste produced (i.e. what is not sold). Working ‘on demand’ and ‘made-to-measure’ reduces the amount of materials needed (as this is required only for the final prototype of the garment) and potential waste -thus also contributing to environmental sustainability; b) this case focuses on artisanal, local work: creating a space for people to experiment locally and work together (e.g. designers could purchase materials as a group, reduce the number of different locations; c) along the way, the case aims to collaborate with other TCBL innovations, such as the natural cotton and bio-shades business cases (experimenting with dyeing technologies that require less water and chemicals), contributing to environmentally sustainable practices.

This will be further investigated over the coming years.

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Figure 20: Independents business case results phases

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EMERGING ISSUES AND KEY LEARNING Looking back at the journey of the case so far, several key learning points can be identified: •

•

•

While people see the benefits of experimentation that this case has the potential to bring, it has proved challenging to convince people to change their ways of working.

For some, it may be the first time they hear of some of these opportunities and therefore may be ‘risk averse’. Others are used to their practices and may not immediately see the advantage of shifting to something different. For example, designers may be very quick to use pen and paper to design their models and may not see the immediate benefit of using a pattern making software, as it requires a different way of thinking. This has meant that the process of engagement has required considerable time and effort.

The adoption of technology has resulted in ‘teething’ issues that may not have been anticipated. Examples include: managing the owners of the software, through the process of adaptation (e.g. one version was not compatible with the latest version of Windows); more recently, a gap was identified relating to the impact of different cutting techniques on the use effective use of Macrogen. More specifically: each designer has a personalised way of cutting (usually consisting of ‘an instruction sheet’). This means that a cutting method for the same garment varies, especially considering that each designer might improvise and/or his/her own elements). During the use of the software, it became apparent that this variety caused a MacroGen or Valentina Project file not to be understood by a second designer without being aware of the instruction sheet behind the cutting method. Currently, case leads are cooperating to find a way to overcome this challenge. These examples have pointed to the importance of having a ‘fit for purpose’ and working technology, which is crucial to bring people on board.

Feeling confident that the technical aspects work has required time and effort and a learning process through trial and error.

This case ‘started from scratch’ and required a lot of work by the two TCBL partners to successfully kick-start the case and raise awareness of the potential of TCBL.

NEXT STEPS The case is currently working towards the completion of Phase 1, which focuses on the small scale testing of Macrogen. This will continue in the immediate future, to iron out the technological challenges outlined above. In addition, activities will continue in the following areas: • • • • •

• •

Dissemination / engagement activities to generate a wider network of independents and small enterprises to use the Lab for experimentation.

Delivering workshops (for example, in 3D design) to support small enterprises and offering support for e-commerce (scheduled for September 2017); Helping independents partner with other Enterprises / TCBL partners to expand their production capabilities.

Providing services (e.g. Squech to find manufacturers for designs and clients for production; Thela to certify adherence to environmental / social standards); Creating spaces (a network) for Independents to come together in online (e.g. a facebook group) and ‘face-to-face’ spaces (e.g. meetings), in order for them to share experiences.

Engaging with other TCBL Labs (natural cotton and bioshades); Further developing and refining the cases’ KPIs.

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LIST OF FIGURES Figure 1: Key outcomes of the three cotton case phases ........................................................... 9 Figure 2: Mapping of the natural cotton busines case workflow and use of TCBL Business Services using Orchestrator (September 2016) ........................................................................ 10 Figure 3: Core ingredients of the natural cotton business case 2016/2017 ............................. 11 Figure 4: Ioanna Kourbela designer brand sample collection produced as a result of the TCBL Natural Cotton case, on display at #TCBL_2017 ...................................................................... 11 Figure 5: Natural cotton busienss case phase one activities and envisaged results................ 13 Figure 6: From Phase 1 to Phase 2 of the Cotton case ............................................................ 15 Figure 7: Representation of TCBL short run production approach ........................................... 16 Figure 8: Activities per phase .................................................................................................... 18 Figure 9: Outcomes per phase.................................................................................................. 19 Figure 10: Ecofriendly production business case: activiites and results ................................... 23 Figure 11 Activities per phase ................................................................................................... 26 Figure 12 Results per phase ..................................................................................................... 27 Figure 13: Results phases for the BioShades Business Case ................................................. 30 Figure 14:Bacteria dyed silk fabric (source: Mirtec report on colour change and staining of bacteria dyed silk fabric) ........................................................................................................... 31 Figure 15: the first two results phases and related activities of the bioshades business case . 34 Figure 16: Digital Heritage activities and results ....................................................................... 36 Figure 17: Digital Heritage results phases ................................................................................ 38 Figure 18: TCBL Independents’ business case theory of chnage ............................................ 41 Figure 19 Independents’ case: activities per phase .................................................................. 43 Figure 20: Independents business case results phases ........................................................... 46

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DOCUMENT INFORMATION REVISION HISTORY REVISION

DATE

Version 1 Version 2

AUTHOR

ORGANISATION

DESCRIPTION

28.6.2017 Kerstin June

TAVI

Production of initial structure

10.7.2017 Kerstin Junge Giorgia Iacopini

TAVI

Version for peer review

Anna-Sophie Hahne Version

11.7. and Simon Delaere, iMinds 14.7.2017 Dieter +Stellmach, DITF Besnik Mehmeti,

Version 3

Peer review

Prato

27.7.2017 Kerstin Junge

TAVI

Incorporation of peer review comments

28.7.2017 Joe Cullen

TAVI

Internal QA review

Version 4 (final)

28.7.2017 Kerstin Junge

TAVI

Incorporation of internal QA comments

Version 5

31.07.2017 Jesse Marsh

Prato

Layout and graphics adjustments

STATEMENT OF ORIGINALITY This deliverable contains original unpublished work except where clearly indicated otherwise.

Acknowledgement of previously published material and of the work of others has been made through appropriate citation, quotation or both.

COPYRIGHT This work is licensed by the TCBL Consortium under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License, 2015. For details, see http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/ The TCBL Consortium, consists of: Municipality of Prato (PRATO) Italy; German Institutes for Textile and Fiber Research - Center for Management Research (DITF) Germany; Istituto Superiore Mario Boella (ISMB) Italy; Skillaware (SKILL) Italy; imec (IMEC) Belgium; Tavistock Institute (TAVI) UK; Materials Industrial Research & Technology Center S.A. (MIRTEC) Greece; Waag Society (WAAG) Netherlands; Huddersfield & District Textile Training Company Ltd (TCOE) UK; eZavod (eZAVOD) Slovenia; Consorzio Arca (ARCA) Italy; Unioncamere del Veneto (UCV); Italy; Hellenic Clothing Industry Association (HCIA) Greece; Sanjotec - Centro Empresarial e Tecnolรณgico (SANJO) Portugal; Clear Communication Associates Ltd (CCA) UK.

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Business Cases Evaluation 2017 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

DISCLAIMER All information included in this document is subject to change without notice. The Members of the TCBL Consortium make no warranty of any kind with regard to this document, including, but not limited to, the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose.

The Members of the TCBL Consortium shall not be held liable for errors contained herein or direct, indirect, special, incidental or consequential damages in connection with the furnishing, performance, or use of this material.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT The TCBL project has received funding from the European Union's Horizon 2020 Programme for research, technology development, and innovation under Grant Agreement n.646133.

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