Associate enterprises in tcbl territories 2017 edition

TCBL HANDBOOKS

ASSOCIATE ENTERPRISES IN TCBL TERRITORIES 2017 EDITION

Co-funded by Horizon 2020

ANNEX 7 TO TCBL D 4.2, 15 JULY 2017 1

CONTENTS Contents..................................................................................................................................... 2 introduction ................................................................................................................................ 4 1

Germany - ditf .................................................................................................................... 5 Activities With Associates from the 2016 Call ........................................................................ 5 Main Local Outputs of Pilot Activities ..................................................................................... 5 Recruiting New Associates In 2017 ....................................................................................... 5 Local Perspectives and Plans for Next Year .......................................................................... 6

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Greece – MIRTEC and HCIA ............................................................................................ 8 Activities With Associates from the 2016 Call ........................................................................ 8 Main Local Outputs of Pilot Activities ..................................................................................... 8 Recruiting New Associates In 2017 ....................................................................................... 9 Local Perspectives and Plans for Next Year ........................................................................ 10

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Portugal - Sanjotec .......................................................................................................... 11 Activities With Associates from the 2016 Call ...................................................................... 11 Main Local Outputs of Pilot Activities ................................................................................... 13 Recruiting New Associates In 2017 ..................................................................................... 16 Local Perspectives and Plans for Next Year ........................................................................ 17

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Tuscany – City of Prato ................................................................................................... 18 Activities With Associates from the 2016 Call ...................................................................... 18 Main Local Outputs of Pilot Activities ................................................................................... 18 Recruiting New Associates In 2017 ..................................................................................... 18 Local Perspectives and Plans for Next Year ........................................................................ 19

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Sicily - Consorzio ARCA .................................................................................................. 21 Activities With Associates from the 2016 Call ...................................................................... 21 Main Local Outputs of Pilot Activities ................................................................................... 21 Recruiting New Associates In 2017 ..................................................................................... 22 Local Perspectives and Plans for Next Year ........................................................................ 22

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Slovenia –E-Zavod .......................................................................................................... 23 Activities With Associates from the 2016 Call ...................................................................... 23 Main Local Outputs of Pilot Activities ................................................................................... 24 Recruiting New Associates In 2017 ..................................................................................... 27 Local Perspectives and Plans for Next Year ........................................................................ 27

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UK - Textile Centre of Excellence (TCoE) ....................................................................... 29 Activities With Associates from the 2016 Call ...................................................................... 29

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Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

Main Local Outputs of Pilot Activities ................................................................................... 30 Recruiting New Associates In 2017 ..................................................................................... 32 Local Perspectives and Plans for Next Year ........................................................................ 32 8

Veneto - Unioncamere del Veneto .................................................................................. 34 Activities With Associates from the 2016 Call ...................................................................... 34 Main Local Outputs of Pilot Activities ................................................................................... 35 Recruiting New Associates In 2017 ..................................................................................... 35 Local Perspectives and Plans for Next Year ........................................................................ 35

Document Information .............................................................................................................. 37

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INTRODUCTION This Handbook details the activities performed with Associate Businesses in the territories covered by TCBL partners during year2 as well as the actions undertaken to recruit new ones in 2017.

Under the coordination of WP4 leader, partners focused on local systems with the Associate Businesses in their “home” territories. This meant the national level for most WP4 partners (EU level for DITF), while Italy is addressed at the regional level, as follows: • • • • • • • •

Germany (DITF) Greece (MIRTEC and HCIA) Portugal (Sanjotec) Tuscany (City of Prato) Sicily (ARCA) Slovenia (eZavod) United Kingdom (TCoE) Veneto (UCV)

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1

GERMANY - DITF

ACTIVITIES W ITH ASSOCIATES FROM THE 2016 CALL A number of direct and indirect communications, with partly detailed explanations of the mission and potential benefits of TCBL for associate members and prospects have been performed.

Main format were presentations at face-to-face meetings, workshops and expert communities, network meetings and social media, seminars and conferences.

• • • • • •

Besides more than 30 contacts with industry representatives during workshops or advisory board meetings, the main events were: Heimtextil Fair Frankfurt 01/17 Texprocess Fair Frankfurt 05/17 ETP Textiles Conference Brussels 03/17 Innovationstag DITF Denkendorf 02/17 RIFT Berlin 06/17

Altogether more than 100 people and organisations, from industry, labs, intermediators, networks&clusters, technology and service providers, consultancy as well as research and education, from the Baden-Württemberg region, from a national level in Germany, and also EUwide. The majority of the contacts focused to industrial formats for textiles and clothing, which are the majority in Germany. Also organisations from small enterprises and from the creative industries have been addressed.

Communication with existing associated members has been continued, in order to expand the cooperation. Both, the emerging labs and the industrial business cases have been discussed with German associates.

MAIN LOCAL O UTPUTS OF PILOT ACTIVITIES The main idea was to create awareness, look for interested members and get a feeling about the general requirements and expectations especially in Germany. We faced the problem of getting members involved in a solution that is more in a conceptual state than an implemented working one. Therefore, it was decided to start with studies of the regional and metropolitan situation of creativity scene (e.g. in Berlin, Stuttgart) in order to know what is wanted and how it is wanted. This will serve in the upcoming Year to offer TCBL in the expected way.

After the consolidation phase of the software platform, the emerging of business pilots and labs it will be more facile to activate the members.

RECRUITING NEW ASSOCIATES IN 2017 Against all odds the Berlin networking service for the fashion industry, connecting local textile producers, service providers and manufacturers directly to established and emerging creatives of the design sector, was very interested in becoming an Associate Member. The idea of sourcebook is to bring together a trusted network of industry experts with a fast-growing community of makers and designers in order to initiate, implement and share new business concepts. It was founded in 2013 in cooperation with NEMONA, an EU funded project and on behalf of the urban and regional development initiative Inpolis. Since March 2015 Sourcebook is operating as an independent limited company. Sourcebook is constantly working on developing the platform and offering new tools to maintain a strong network as well as a high level of professionalism for all industries of the fashion supply chain.

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Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

As sourcebook is not only active in the digital realm (their expertise includes expert consultations – guiding you from concept stage to seasonal production, exclusive networking events, match-making trips abroad, cutting-edge seminars and professional tutorials for among other things material sourcing, serial production, logistics and distribution) it was intended to apply as an Associate Member with a strong Metropolitan network in the background.

In the frame of the RIFT (Responsible Innovators for Fashion & Textiles) summit in Berlin in June 2017, which is a satellite program of WEARit Festival 2017, DITF presented the ideas and results of TCBL. After a short introduction of TCBL in the afternoon sessions the general status quo and setting of an agenda for future responsible innovation for the fashion and textile industries were discussed with more than 50 participants, pinned and presented in the closing panel.

Some impressions of the RIFT in Berlin, June 2017 Nevertheless, Sourcebook has been evaluated within TCBL being better a service provider in the TCBL landscape, offering their networking service for emerging and established fashion designers, brands, garment manufacturers, craftspeople and fabric mills as well as service providers for the fashion industry. They offer access to the latest trade news, expert consultation and guidance along the production chain from inception to the production stage.

On top of that the Sourcebook team will provide their members with a Toolkit of documents and tutorials in the categories of sourcing, production and distribution to see to a successful development of fashion business.

LOCAL PERSPECTIVES AND PLANS FOR NEXT YEAR As already indicated in Year 3 the studies of the regional and metropolitan situation of creativity scene (e.g. in Berlin, Stuttgart) will be detailed to embrace the creativity community with the TCBL offerings.

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Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

The trends of innovation and sustainability are definitively and strongly increasing including e.g.

•

•

•

•

The building on the consumer’s growing desire to deeply connect with nature through active outdoor experiences, such as wilderness yoga & fitness retreats, outdoor gyms, running clubs, bootcamps and endurance events, designers could aim to conceptually ‘embed nature’ into their products and services, to enhance the wearer’s wellbeing during and following exercise, as well as their long-term health (https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/embedded-nature-design-innovation-health-wellbeinganne-prahl-phd?articleId=6271005232981905408#comments6271005232981905408&trk=prof-post); new ways of consumption, travel and living by finding original sources of high quality materials and handcrafts with an authentic story behind them; the design choices are aimed to keep the traditional style of craft and combine it with modern simplicity (https://folkdays.com); the co-creation of circular products with future thinking brands and establishing the circular infrastructures between all participants to keep the products in the loop while generating advantages for everyone involved (http://circular.fashion/); the borrowing of clothes via platforms (https://kleiderei.com/).

Hence in the upcoming Year the trends, the networks and their members will be analysed in detail looking • • • •

how they work and meet at the moment; how do they meet and communicate; and what tools and devices they use in general; what are their requirements (in regards to TCBL).

Based on these results potential new Associate members will be identified and motivated to apply for the next call. Besides; as already mentioned, it will be easier to make them interested in TCBL having a consolidated platform in the background (as it is planned end of 2017).

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GREECE – MIRTEC AND HCIA

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ACTIVITIES W ITH ASSOCIATES FROM THE 2016 CALL In 2016 a total of 12 enterprises was recruited: • • • • • • • • • • • •

Calsta Workwear SA: Workwear and corporate clothing Giannetos SA: Hand-made clothing designers and retail Ioanna Kourbela: Womenswear - Menswear - Accessories La Stampa: Women cloths Nafpaktos Textile Industry SA: Production of cotton combed or carded yarns Nota: Lingerie collection design and trade Tsakiris Silk: Dyeing, Printing and finishing silk and silk blend fabrics.

Siamidis SA: Corporate Protective Garments using technical textiles Thrakika Ekkokistiria S.A.: Cotton ginning mills Varvaressos S.A.: Spinning mill producing single, multi-ply ring spun and core-spun yarns Walk LTD: Sock hosiery and underwear manufacturing company White Box MEPE: Baby bed linen products using natural raw materials

From these 12 enterprises, 9 are factories and only 3 small units (Giannetos, Ioanna Kourbela and Walk Ltd). Activities focussed on the design and implementation of the Natural Cotton Business Case, which was of interest for a majority of the enterprises recruited.

Out of them 3 played a major role in the Business Case (Thrakika Ekkokistiria S.A, Varvaressos S.A and Ioanna Kourbela). The 3 of them had speakers representing them in #2017 TCBL Conference in Athens.

We also developed activities, out of this Business Case, with Tsiakiris Silk, who organised workshops in the Athens T&C Design Lab and one other during #2017 TCBL Conference in Athens, where he participated also as speaker in Jam session. He has been involved in a transaction with TCBL members in Slovenia and we have started with him developing plans for a Silk Business Case to be started during next phase.

We had also 5 advisors: • • • • •

Art of Silk Museum: Experts in silk production Athens Traders' Association: Association of retail shops Hellenic Fashion Industry Association (SEPEE): Apparel Manufacturers Association Piraeus University of Applied Science: Garment engineering, New materials and technologies for fashion design Technical University of Crete: Expert in CAD/CAM and Digital Prototyping in T&C

All the advisors followed the work done for Cotton Business Case and Tsakiris and gathered together twice (in January at Trade Fashion Show and in #2017 TCBL Conference).

MAIN LOCAL O UTPUTS OF PILOT ACTIVITIES The main local output has been the co-design with the companies of the Natural Cotton Business Case and its implementation through a first successful pilot activity which allowed the production of a sample of 9 garments made from a lot of fully traced sustainable, high quality Cotton of Greek origin. The case is documented in the guidebook on the “Description of Natural Cotton Business Case” (composing the Annex I of this report).

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Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

Other outputs are the workshops on Silk issues organised for designers with our Associate Enterprise, Tsiakiris Silk, the sales made by Tsiakiris Silk in Slovenia and the sales made by our contact person in Thrakika Ekkokistiria, who is also a designer of silk products, through Tsiakiris Silk’s shops.

RECRUITING NEW ASSOCIATES IN 2017 HCIA and MIRTEC cooperated in the recruitment of new associate enterprises in 2017, starting from TCBL subscribers but also addressing to new audiences, through a participation in the Greek events of “Fashion Revolution” and by direct contacts to actors who could play an important role for the further upgrading, deployment and visibility of the Natural Cotton Business Case (like Dontas – - Selected Textiles SA1 - or Fouta).

The efforts resulted in the recruitment of 9 new associate enterprises established in Greece: Name

Description

Christianna Vasiliadou- SOFFA

A Sustainable Fashion Factory that provides work integration and ethical employment to trafficked survivors, refugees and unemployed designers, produces from natural, man-made or recycled biodegradable materials

Debbie Tzima

Graphic designer who designs patterns and applies them on silk fabric for making scarves & caftans.

Elisavet Kapogianni

Womenswear all developed and created inhouse and locally

Eva Kalogeropoulou (BAGISM.gr)

Production of Bags and of some Clothes. Practices are ethical and materials are Oeko-tex certified. Fabrics are Organic and Fair Trade.

Some patterns are original 1920's Suffragette designs. We follow the principle of Zero Waste Design.

Garyfalia Pitsaki (3QUARTERS)

Makes bags and accessories from upcycled leftovers of the common balcony awnings fabrics.Works on small scale production with a firm belief in a local, handmade and sustainable ethic.

Georgia Lolou

A Start-up in fashion

Selected Textiles SA (Dontas)

DONTAS - A leader of Greek Cotton Sector

Stefanos Chrysafis

A brand and a collection recently launched awarded at the Greek Fashion Week, focusing on the artistic aspects of clothing

VASILIS RAIKOPOULOS (FOUTA)

A small company producing hammam towels and more, exclusively from natural fibers

To these new associates we can also add 4 others established abroad by entrepreneurs of Greek origin:

1

http://www.stiafilco.com

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Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

Name

Description

Clea Polar Pierard (FR)

Recently established textile workshop in Paris with the following roadmap : Manufacture Made in France, Raw material from Europe, Hand-made, Made with organic material, Short supply chain

Spyridoula Kolossa (CY)

Baby and children's clothing made ethically from organic and certified cotton (very small SME)

Kelly Koulizou (GER)

Making her first steps in the fashion industry‌

Chrysanthi Polyzoni – KidKid (Italy)

A Start-up offering children's clothing rental service for the holiday period.

LOCAL PERSPECTIVES AND PLANS FOR NEXT YEAR The very high interest expressed for Natural Cotton Business Case by 10 out of the 13 new Associate Members above will lead us to invest our efforts and activities in this Case (and the new ones expected to emerge out of it) during the next phase, by putting an emphasis on its internationalisation (recruitment of Associate Enterprises out of Greece for the Cotton Case) and diversification (opening to new natural materials value chains) In parallel we expect high demands in Ecofriendly production, as a big part of the newcomers come from Fashion Revolution and 10 out of the 13 new Associate Members declare very interested by this case.

Finally, as 12 out of the 13 new comers are very small enterprises or independents we expect also demands for the Short Runs and Independents cases, which we should satisfy in cooperation with the TCBL partners handling these cases.

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3

PORTUGAL - SANJOTEC

ACTIVITIES W ITH ASSOCIATES FROM THE 2016 CALL As a result of the first Call launched in 2016, 9 Portuguese associate members joined the network: • • • • • • • • •

Fibrenamics (advisor) ERT Balutextil Daniela.Ponto final Heliotextil Sonae Retail Feltrando FEPSA Moritex

FIBRENAMICS Fibrenamics is a platform for development of materials and innovative products based on fibers for various industry sectors including medicine, sports, construction, transportation, architecture, protection, among others. With vast experience in implement R&D projects in fibers, they are open for international collaborations to develop textile innovative solutions for companies, relying on its great know-how in new fibre applications in multiple sectors. Meanwhile, they have been developing a project with ERT (another TCBL associate) and are now starting to study the implementation of a project with FEPSA (a process mediated by Sanjotec in a meeting that took place on 3rd of July in FEPSA’s factory).

Besides these identified concrete projects, Fibrenamics has been collaborating with Sanjotec Design Lab and Oliva Creative Lab, promoting several workshops and dynamics (see below).

DANIELA .PONTO FINAL A Portuguese brand that strives to bring the perfect mix of old fabrics with newest ones creating a young and fresh product, and is proudly handmade with love in Portugal. Daniela. has plans to reach new international suppliers of raw materials for its production of exclusive and small series handmade clothes with the old and unused stocks of textiles industries. With this approach, it could be possible to reuse leftovers of production (industrial waste) and reuse them by giving new life to these materials.

International cooperation is needed to find suppliers of this old stocks. Sanjotec has also been designing together with Daniela a set of Workshops in Cutting and sewing techniques to compensate for the lack of learning opportunities in this region.

FELTRANDO Feltrando’s research and production are focused on Redesign and Sustainable Design concepts wherein felt is key. Based on the premises of Handmade (restoring tradition and recurring to manual craftsmanship) and of Ecology (reusing industrial textile residue and furniture), outputs results in unique and exclusive items. The company is open to help other international partners to open a production and development laboratory to work with felt.

Sanjotec has been working with Feltrando assisting in the development of the business model and finding the right partners, such as FEPSA, which is a big supplier of Feltrando (FEPSA’s waste residues are Feltrando raw material to develop new products).

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Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

Sanjotec plans to regularly meet with Feltrando to help empower reuse of industrial textile waste and keep finding new ways of incorporating it in new products, as it has already been done by the company.

ERT A well-equipped and modern Tier 2, laminating, cutting and sewing all kinds of technical textiles and other flexible materials as leathers and foams. The core business is the development and manufacture for automotive interior components. ERT is a leader in incorporation of advanced technology in technical textiles and intents to be a partner in smart technical textile experimentation and to develop partnerships with customers, suppliers and research centers to identify and explore emerging technological opportunities, new materials, products and technologies. Collaboration opportunities with Heliotextil have been identified.

Several initiatives have been promoted with the support of Sanjotec, such as the Launch of a Call for Innovation in the automotive sector to find new solutions related to technical textiles.

Sanjotec also organized [D] IN, an initiative focused on the regional successful case study ERT and which consisted in an exhibition, talks and debates and sharing of experience in industrial innovation design.

HELIOTEXTIL Heliotextil has its activity focused on the manufacture of textile products: tapes, rubber bands, badges, textile transfers and promotional items. Its industrial premises have equipment that cover most of the textile processes: warping, weaving, dyeing (products and wires), finishing, printing (advanced screen printing, offset, letterpress,), and also have a quality and colour development laboratory. Its recent work has been focusing in R&D projects regarding the integration of printed electronics on heat transfers (heating bands, antennas, capacitive sensors and conductive lines).

Based on several meetings with Heliotextil, it has been noted that they are an important future industrial partner to implement pilot testing of new technologies and products; Some of its ideas for pilot experiments are: • • • • • • • • • • •

Introduce e-Textiles on mass market, solving the big problem of connections, creating a set of standard connectors for power, signal and communication between the cloths and the exterior and between the devices on the cloth.

Implement e-textiles totally based on printed electronics.

New technologies for energy harvesting on textiles, explore amorphous substances that can be printed on textiles to collect energy from the sun.

Development of amorphous substances that can be printed by silkscreen to implement semiconductor structures.

Creation of a standardized process between countries to recycle, recollect old cloths.

Create a new process to transform European agricultural waste on new fibers

In June 2016, Heliotextil participated in #TCBL 2016, having the opportunity to interact with several potential partners and to explain its innovation potentialities to the public.

In 2017, Sanjotec kept its close relationship with the company, implementing a pilot of an innovative solution developed by Heliotextil in a big event in S. João da Madeira (see below).

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Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

FEPSA FEPSA is leader in quality felt bodies for the hat industry throughout the world. It aims to improve the future by keeping an innovating mindset, protect the environment by getting greener.

A set of meetings and a visit to the factory took place to better understand the production process and study the possibility of integrating FEPSA in one of the business cases, by testing bacteria dyeing techniques in the felting process.

FEPSA was also present in #TCBL 2017 to further develop the international possibilities of cooperation.

BALUTEXTIL Balutextil is a non-Woven Garment producer that wants to develop joint experiences with research communities, being a test bed to the development of studies/experiences. Also has a special concern regarding reduction of material waste. Sanjotec is still in talks to help the company in these fields.

SONAE RETAIL SONAE performs Retail activities in the areas of Fashion, Sports, Consumer Electronics and Food. In the meetings that took place, it has been clear that they are seeking opportunities to collaborate and innovate in textiles and other areas with applicability in a fashion and sports retail business. The company would like to be a testbed for product innovation to be experimented in its clothing and sports collections, for example in what regards the implementation of high-tech textiles/smart textiles trend.

MORITEX Moritex are producers with a large experience and know-how in fashion garments. It has been found alignment with TCBL since this company is very focused on developing a slow fashion paradigm, by finding alternatives and giving emphasis to recycling and sustainability and long life durability.

MAIN LOCAL O UTPUTS OF PILOT ACTIVITIES As a result of the interactions through the year with all the TCBL Associates, a different set of outputs emerged, from collaborations between associates and new products created, as well as the launch of Calls for Innovation, workshops and different initiatives.

IMPLEMENTATION OF A CALL FOR INNOVATION As a result of several meetings and brainstorming sessions with ERT, there was detected the possibility of implementing and Launching a Call for Innovation in the automotive sector related to technical textiles which will lead to de development of innovative ideas, materials and products with application inside the car. This call is launched in collaboration with 2 companies: ERT – TCBL Associate- and Simoldes.

The best projects will be awarded in each of the categories to the competition and the winners will still see their projects gain shape by developing a prototype, presenting their idea to potential automotive customers as well as media and communication and marketing support to increase visibility of the product.

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Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs [D] IN – DESIGN IN INDUSTRIAL INNOVATION [D] IN was an initiative also born as a result of the interactions and series of talks with ERTTCBL associate. The goal was to show to the public the historical evolution of one of the leading companies in the region.

ERT was therefore a case study discussed for several months (with its kick-off on 05/11/16), a company which has been able to successfully innovate and prosper.

An exhibition, talks and debates and sharing of experience in this field took place.

This was an opportunity to deeply understand the role of Design in Industrial Innovation and promote share of best practices to other companies operating on the sector.

FIBRENAMICS – INTERACTIONS AND DYNAMICS Fibrenamics with its core on developing R&D projects with fibers, have been working with several TCBL companies to develop new solutions, such as: •

Project with ERT: Fibrenamics has been developing a project with ERT which consists in several innovation potentials. It has been developed a specific thermal and acoustic insulation solution. On the other hand, the team also focused on the development of space/interiors intelligence, making it also interactive with the user. With regard to interactivity, it was created a concept based on sensor-actuators that provides essential information such as luminosity, air quality and room temperature. There’s also a very strong interaction of the smartphone with the demonstrator models.

•

Project with FEPSA: It has been identified an opportunity of innovation and collaboration with FEPSA and beginning of a common project to be implemented in the near future. Meeting and a visit to the factory took place on June 2017.

Besides these identified concrete projects, Fibrenamics has been collaborating with Sanjotec Design Lab and Oliva Creative Lab, promoting several workshops and dynamics, for example: •

Workshop ‘Fibrenamics Green – Innovation with waste – design and product engineering’, workshop + exhibition on January 27th

•

‘Green Innovation Experience’, practical session that tested the creativity of the public on 2nd of june.

It has also been developed with the support of Sanjotec, the development and implementation of a call for green solutions: “Green Think Tank”2, a textile fibre challenge that is open to submissions until July 15th.

2

http://green.fibrenamics.com/green-think-tank/

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Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

TECNET – EVENT DEDICATED TO NEW CHALLENGES AND T RENDS Sanjotec organized a big event that explored the new challenges and trends in the T&C sector.

It had the participation of TCBL associates not only as mere audience, but also as speakers; exhibiting, since it was possible to have stands; and as developers of new solutions for the event.

It was given to them the opportunity to share their views with well-known speakers from young designers to big companies and associations in the sector.

The event also brought the development of creative and technological solutions.

The design of the space and context focused on the use of creative textile elements and was developed by designers in the network.

Technological Solutions were developed to manage the event’s logistic, such as iBrace, a tech bracelet developed with Heliotextil – see more below.

DEVELOPMENT OF A TECH BRACELET (IBRACE ) Sanjotec performed a pilot of iBrace, a tech solution developed by Heliotextil to control and manage logistics of events, such as check in operations and access to restrict areas and meals management. It was implement in the recent event hosted by Sanjotec. This solution was developed with Heliotextil – TCBL associate.

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Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

W ORKSHOPS PROMOTED BY ASSOCIATES TO GIVE LEARNING OPPORTUNITIES TO THE COMMUNITY It has being diagnosed a lack of skills and training courses to the local community. Though the direct contact with TCBL companies, it has been identified know-how and skills to implement a series of workshops in several themes, such as Cutting and sewing techniques (with Daniela Ponto Final) and development of new felt products/increase awareness of this product (with Feltrando).

OLIVA CREATIVE BAZAAR Given the great potential and interest of products developed by the creative community of TCBL companies and other regional actors in the T&C sector, several entrepreneurial projects were invited to create a scenario of exhibition and sale of their products (innovative design applied to textiles, shoes,etc.) last December.

The goal was to promote dialogue between entrepreneurs and citizens and to create awareness of the creative potential in the region.

RECRUITING NEW ASSOCIATES IN 2017 In Portugal, the promotion of the call targeted specific Important regional industrial players that were identified for us to be of interest to the tcbl network. After research and identification of the potential candidates, an e-mail was sent with more information regarding the call and its conditions as well as our direct contact and mention of our support in the submission of the applications. Announcement of the call was also made through Sanjotec’s website and Facebook for other potential interested parties. Our close network members were also contacted personally via phone and participated in one-to-one meetings to present the project and to further analyze future opportunities and benefits of joining TCBL.

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Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

LOCAL PERSPECTIVES AND PLANS FOR NEXT YEAR The approved associated members were already contacted and further action will take place in the months to follow. Emphasis will be in promoting not only regional but also international collaborations and involvement of Portuguese pilots in business cases.

It has already been discussed involvement of FEPSA and Feltrando in BioShades Business Case both in testing and product development, with the support of Sanjotec Design Lab. FEPSA will be involved in the first stage, by testing bacteria dyeing techniques and analyse these possibilities into the felting process and Feltrando in a possible second stage, by using the dyed felt to produce new and innovative products.

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TUSCANY – CITY OF PRATO

ACTIVITIES W ITH ASSOCIATES FROM THE 2016 CALL In this period, the Municipality of Prato coordinated the TCBL Pilot with the aim to support Ecofriendly Production. The issue at hand has been the sustainability of the entire textile supply chain. The initial concept of the pilot has focused on environment-related issues (e.g. waste and water reduction, recycling, etc.) through an action research approach on several areas of the textile process: design, sampling, finishing, dyeing, drying, technical (including 'smart') textile experimentation. The pilot aims to build a business ecosystem that demonstrates viable alternatives to current products, markets and supply chains. It will allow partners with similar concerns for sustainability to share their expertise to redesign current textile supply chains.

MAIN LOCAL O UTPUTS OF PILOT ACTIVITIES The main local output of Pilot activities has been an assessment of the issue at hand (vision): there is a need (market demand) for quality environment-friendly fabrics (be it wool, cotton or other). Nowadays consumers have little or no idea of sustainability issues of their clothes. They can’t tell the difference between low-standard clothes and environmental-friendly ones. The aim of the plot is to create an ecosystem covering the entire supply chain: right from the fiber down to the final customer, which may favour education about transparency and sustainability issues (environmental, social and economic) for the production of quality products.

In order to explore the sustainability for the entire supply chain a new type of organization (e.g. a consortium) may be required to objectively supervise the entire supply chain. The consortium should promote life cycle thinking, and explore different technologies for the elimination (not only reduction) of chemicals in the production cycles.

On average, a dress bought from the final customer is worked upon by 9 different suppliers that have only a part of the vision. These usually think of their individual production problems only, not of the real, more authentic needs of the final customers in terms of quality, functionality or knowledge. The pilot should uphold transparency and social responsibility – although specific NDAs might be signed for IPR protection. The pilot could examine the above issues by survey potential partners for sourcing, organizing and producing sustainable T&C products made from cotton.

RECRUITING NEW ASSOCIATES IN 2017 The initial list of TCBL partners and associates that candidate to join the plot was screened to recruit the right Associate Members in 2017.

N.

Name

Country

Activity

Type

1

4 Sustainability

Italy

Laboratory- Sustainability Consultancy Team

A

2

Mob-Vintage

Italy

Clothing and vintage accessories

L

3

GFT

Italy

Innovative IT solutions

A

4

De Caro sas di Dalla Pasqua B. &amp

Italy

Recycling and reuse waste in designer products

L

5

Gida SPA

Italy

Expert in environmental certification

A

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Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

N.

Name

Country

Activity

Type

6

Tris & CO

Italy

Dry cleaning and finishing of any tissue

F

7

LDS

Italy

Production of fabrics

F

8

Erre Quadro

Italy

Expert in patents' analysis to support innovation in processes and products

A

9

Cleviria

Italy

Software for montoring the supply chain

A

10

Marzotto Group

Italy

Leading textile fashion company

F

11

Programma ambiente

Italy

Service of recovery products and/or waste disposal of textile industry

A

12

Lineaesse Tessuti Spa

Italy

Textile company producing fabrics for womenswear as well as menswear

F

13

Fonte

Italy

Washing and Finishing of Texiles

F

14

Stefano Panconesi

Italy

Expert in natural color charts and eco-bio textile materials

A

15

Zanetti Moda Srl

Italy

Women's shirts production since 1965

F

16

Sonae

Portugal

Retail activities

F

17

Moritex

Portugal

Producer of articles made of circular knit

F

18

Balutextil, Malhas e Confecaos, SA

Portugal

Non-Woven Garment producer

F

19

Bizmut

Slovenia

Textile bags from recycled materials

L

20

Viral

Slovenia

Production of washable cotton nappies for Babies

F

21

Jazon - social entreprise

Slovenia

Social entreprise focused on recycling and supply of materials including textile with past experience in corporate clothing.

F

22

Davy Textiles Ltd

United Kingdom

Textile Recyclers

F

23

Robert Dewhurst

United Kingdom

Expert in global business strategies in manufacturing

A

Process Factory emerged as the key associate to deliver the pilot in year 3. Process Factory has become part of the TCBL business ecosystem to support one of TCBL’s main objectives, i.e., sustainability. Process Factory works with sustainability through 4sustainability, an alliance of abilities and experiences bringing together a number of businesses and services across the T&C value chain. Through 4sustainability, Process Factory supports brands and chain suppliers to improve sustainability e.g. by building a Data Collecting Protocol for Supply Chain’s qualification, which is nowadays extremely needed to qualify production in front of manufacturers and consumers.

LOCAL PERSPECTIVES AND PLANS FOR NEXT YEAR The main activities foreseen for year three of the pilot will be: 19

Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs • • • • • • •

To identify a commercial product (fabrics) To identify value chain nodes or enterprises (around 7 for a single product) To define an agreed protocol for data collection across the value chain To define data collection templates specific to each phase or node of the value chain To implement the protocol on the Thela platform To involve Labs to interact with specific value chain nodes for increased value added in terms of innovation, sustainability, design etc To certify the process and come out with a recognizable

20

5

SICILY - CONSORZIO ARCA

ACTIVITIES W ITH ASSOCIATES FROM THE 2016 CALL With the 2016 call there were 15 associates from Sicily and 1 from Calabria region (Nido di Seta) members approved: • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Sartoria Maqueda Irene Ferrara Vuedu di Daniela Vinciguerra Mad di Marzia Donzelli Marianna Vigneri

By Ciuro di Giuseppe Ciuro Zavi group di Salvatore Zambito Orange Fiber Sea bag di Giuseppe Lucido Variazioni di Simona La Torre Daniela Cocco Mauro Crimi Sartoria Sociale More di Morena Raimondo Vitussi.

The 2016 call also enrolled an advisor, Sartoria Sociale.

Meetings and interviews with all members were implemented in the period of June-December 2016 with the following interests identified: • • • • •

marketing empowerment cooperation with partners ecommerce empowerment engage with new young professionals for sewing job; empower, individuals and small-scale textile and clothing enterprises by helping them improve their business with innovative services.

The Arca Consortium followed a major interest of the Associates and cooperated with the TCBL Pilot with the aim to support Independent designers.

Specific case studies have been developed with Palermo-based TCBL Associate Enterprises Simona La Torre and MAD (Marzia Donzelli) to: develop new business models (e.g. distributed production, made to measure) using two different software such as Patternmaker and Valentina project; test production feasibility in different localities engaging with other TCBL associates and partners such as UCV and test the viability of made-to-measure.

As far as engaging with new professionals ARCA Consortium developed a case study with TCBL Associate Mauro Crimi and Sartoria Sociale starting a long run testing with the aim to rebuilt the local tradition of hand sewing enlarging the audience of highly motivated tailors.

In the last year, we cooperated also with Orange Fiber in the Bioshades case and with Zavi Group developing men’s shits made with genista’s fabric.

MAIN LOCAL O UTPUTS OF PILOT ACTIVITIES The main output is that we created the conditions for experimentation and initial testing.

Through ARCA Textile Lab in Palermo, where the Independent case was initiated, this first 21

Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

phase involved first of all undertaking community engagement activities to raise awareness of the opportunity offered by TCBL, and of the ARCA Textile Lab as a place for experimentation; identifying needs; training in, and then testing, the use and viability of pattern drafting software (through the two independent designers identified as case leaders).

As far as Mauro Crimi and Sartoria Sociale we are empowering four young professionals with the aim of starting a job cooperation with our Associates.

RECRUITING NEW ASSOCIATES IN 2017 In Sicily promotion of the call was done by preparing stakeholder analysis on the territory but also recalling stakeholders we met all round the previous year. Direct mails were sent after announcement of the call, as well as the call was promoted using ARCA Consortium Facebook site and web site and ARCA Textile Lab Facebook site. Specific potential candidates were called in person and informed about the call. Support for the filling in application was provided on demand to those who needed it.

LOCAL PERSPECTIVES AND PLANS FOR NEXT YEAR The main activities foreseen for year three will be: • • • •

To establish stable cooperation with TCBL local Associate through ARCA Textile Lab To implement the Independents case To establish cooperation with TCBL Associate from other territories To complete transitions paths from start-ups to TCBL Associates or Service providers of the projects;

22

SLOVENIA –E-ZAVOD

6

ACTIVITIES W ITH ASSOCIATES FROM THE 2016 CALL Within 2016 call there were 6 Slovenian associate members approved: • • • • • •

Bizmut d.o.o.

Dr. Daniela Zavec Pavlinic Viral d.o.o.

Novi Armal d.o.o.

Jazon institute Tatjana Kalamar s.p.

Meetings and interviews with all members were implemenred in the period of June-December 2016 with the following interests identified.

Bizmut d.o.o. is interested in the development of new business model focusing on the textile tourism. The idea would be to offer tailor-made suits for the tourists visiting Slovenian spa resorts. Spa tourism is one of the most important tourism activities in Slovenia, where guests usually stay for one week of longer. This time would allow for Jazon to measure and tailormade suits. Agreements with spa centres and local sewing craftswomen would be the first step in the development.

Dr. Daniela Zavec Pavlinic – Titera d.o.o., is researcher, developer and producer of textile.her company conduct basic research and applied studies, where the knowledge of textile materials is combined by manufacturing technologies (and opposite) with aim to boost both, materials and manufacture, into the development of innovative novel technologies and products.

They are also active on the level of industrial development, for example in the development of new heatable and cooling materials, which will be capable of combining with other textile materials, making textile products functional and smart. Further, through our business network, we will help you to bring new product to the market too.

Development work is focused on the areas of: •

• • •

•

Smart clothing and wearable electronics (protective firefighting turnout gear FireCAT - awarded by silver award for innovations from Chamber of Commerce of Republic of Slovenia in 2016) Interactive IT tools InKreate (Transfer the real 3D world of this interactive creative endeavours and apparel industry) Bamboo products for everyday use (Shirts with the affirmations, pyjamas for comfort sleeping) Functional cooling materials for therapeutic purposes (bandages), to increase comfort and reduce energy consumption (car seats) as well as for integration into the products for sports and recreation Functional heating materials (for sport wear) to increase human comfort and reduce energy consumption (car seats, carpets) - LEcMAT

Meeting with Titera was conducted on 21.12.2016 in Maribor, Slovenia. Titera d.o.o. is interested in the development of applied kinesiology in the combination with textile. She has good cooperation links with EU countries as well as with Balkan countries. She would be interested in cooperating, however there was not specific cooperation field identified.

Viral d.o.o. is one of the few washable diaper’s manufacturers in Slovenia. The company is located in Western Slovenia, at Podjelovo Brdo Municipality, just outside Ljubljana. Besides diapers, Viral d.o.o. also produces bedding and children’s clothes with plain and organic cotton from Germany and bamboo from a local grower. The company is a family run business founded 23

Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

by Irene and Aleš Rupar, who started sewing diapers for their own daughter back in 1992. Over this 14 years path, they have worked in developing their own formula to offer quality products, and becoming a recognized brand.

Viral’s goal as a TCBL member is to cooperate with other businesses in the framework of the project. Interacting with experienced, acknowledged partners would give a hand for viral to produce more modern solutions for their quality products while expanding their business according to the market’s demand. Raising awareness of their product’s health, economic and environmental long-term benefits throughout the country is their greatest interest, and as a member of TCBL their possibilities would be highly improved.

Novi Armal d.o.o. is social enterprise focused on development of new business models for production of different products from toys to small textile and accessories. In the meeting, there was the need to get support from TCBL project in order to produce textile bags.

Jazon institute is social enterprise developing the business model “buy with the purpose”. The business model is based on the buyers’ moral values of preferring the product or service, if they are helping socially of physically deprived people – therefore if you buy, you do it with good purpose. In the meeting, they expressed the idea developing uniforms for pilots and stewardesses with Slovenian material and Slovenian workforce.

Tatjana Kalamar s.p. is fashion & product designer, textile innovator and artist. She is working with major Slovenian textile enterprises as external expert as well as she is developing her own ideas. Within the project she expressed interest to join TCBL international seminar in Huddersfield and to use TCBL in order to develop new product, the textile holder for tablets and smart phones.

MAIN LOCAL O UTPUTS OF PILOT ACTIVITIES Novi Armal d.o.o. was supported by the purchase of consumable materials to produce bags.

Since E-zavod has possibility to use funds for other direct costs (material costs) international purchase of 200 mt of cotton was made from Croatia. In the Novi Armal, they have produced multi-purpose bags:

Viral d.o.o. is one of the few washable diaper’s manufacturers in Slovenia. Viral was included in the preparation of Slovenian plot case.

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Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs Although kids’ diapers are Viral’s most known and sold product, their product range expands to adult diapers, waterproof bed pads, curtains, children’s clothes and bibs. Amongst their customers are local kindergartens and hospitals which buy or rent products in bulk, as well as individual buyers who can find their merchandise at independent shops. Laundering is also a facility offered to institutions that have poor prospects to wash the products.

Viral counts on a few producers and processors as partners to get into their final products; The famous Slovenian author of children’s books Lili Prap, in which her book characters are reproduced into the kids range of products, a printing company, a local washhouse which washes large amounts of diapers and bed clothes, and their cotton and bamboo suppliers.

Most of their products are made of bamboo, as they remain pleasantly soft after several high temperature washes. Bamboo is a very fast-growing plant that requires no pesticides and other chemical agents, and they are supplied from a Slovenian company as specified by Viral. The conventionally grown cotton has been increasingly replaced by organic cotton in the recent years, and their goal is to transition 100%. Their cotton is produced in Germany and is certified to GOTS, which monitors not only cotton, but also the processing and treatment. Addition of dyes and other stabilizers regulates in detail, adding heavy metals, formaldehyde and genetically modified ingredients is not allowed. All producers and processors must also comply with the social standards.

Kindergartens Cotton Viral

Diapers

Hospitals

Pick up

Laundry

Bamboo Hoseholds

All the offered products have the purpose of benefiting both the environment and the health of its users specially babies, who can experience from allergy and irritations from the ordinary plastic diapers. Lower costs, environmental friendliness, environmental awareness, avoidance of hazardous substances and waste reduction are some of the benefits from their products.

The pilot action is not only important for Viral in order to raise brand awareness and sales but to the region of Slovenia to reduce waste production and pollution. The TCBL community can also benefit from it by replicating its spreading strategy of conscious brands with similar goals, but varied products. It requires support from the local media to build a bridge from Viral and the customers where they can communicate the benefits of their products and why people should opt for washable diapers. It implies a change in consumer’s behaviour and openness. It is a highly feasible action, since its goal is to educate people in a relatively small geographic area which is already high conscious about the environment. Cooperation with other TCBL Associate Enterprises is a potential in sight, some being more coherent and reasonable as listed on the table below.

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Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

Associate Nafpaktos Textile Industry SA

Country

Description

Eco-friendly production Potential for cooperation Supply of raw material F (cotton)

Greece

Production of cotton combed or carded yarns

PIRAEUS University of Applied Science

Greece

Associated professor in garment engineering, expert in Novel materials and technologies for fashion design

A

WHITE BOX MEPE

Greece

Baby bed linen products using natural raw materials

F

Greece

Cotton ginning mills

F

Italy Italy

LABORATORY- SUSTAINABILITY CONSULTANCY TEAM Experts in intellectual property, patents, trade marks

A A

Italy

Experts in Business Networking

A

Italy

Recycling and reuse waste in designer products

L

Italy

Expert in environmental certification

A

TRIS & CO

Italy

Dry cleaning and finishing of any tissue

F

LDS

Italy

F

Next Technology Tecnotessile

Italy

Producion of fabrics Experts in Research and technological innovation in the textile and textile machinery sectors

Novi Armal

Slovenia

Workers cooperative involved in social entrepreneurship

L

Slovenska filantropija, Murska Sobota

Slovenia

Association promoting voluntary work

L

Jazon - social entreprise

Slovenia

Social entreprise focused on recycling and supply of materials including textile with past experience in corporate clothing

F

Davy Textiles Ltd

United Kingdom

Textile Recyclers

F

Thrakika Ekkokistiria S.A. 4 Sustainability ANYWAY S.R.L.S. ARIT - ASSOCIAZIONE RETI D'IMPRESA ITALIANE De Caro sas di Dalla Pasqua B. &amp GIDA SPA

Technologic knowledge and advise Knowledge sharing Supply of raw material (cotton) Consulting Consulting

Knowledge sharing

A

Textile supplier Certification services Washable diaper cleaning services Textile supplier Consulting, knowledge sharing Source of labour and working partership Source of labour and working partership

Textile supplier Textile supplier

The Slovenian plot was finalized using the Strategyzer tool

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Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

Tatjana Kalamar s.p. was taken to TCBL yearly conference in Huddersfield, where she has present herself and her project idea – holder for tablets/smart phones. With support of TCBL project purchase of material and design of the new product was possible.

RECRUITING NEW ASSOCIATES IN 2017 In Slovenia promotion of the call was done by doing market research and preparing stakeholder analysis with mailing list. Direct mails were sent after announcement of the call, as well as the call was promoted using E-zavod Facebook site and web site. Specific potential candidates were called in person and informed about the call. Support for the filling in application was provided on demand to those who needed it.

LOCAL PERSPECTIVES AND PLANS FOR NEXT YEAR The approved associated members will be personally contacted in the following months and interest will be collected. Mapping of interest will be done to match and implement international cooperation. It is planned to prefer international cooperation between associate members form at least 2 EU member states and to include them in the business cases and already operating labs.

Currently Associate Dusanka Herman has been visited. She is unique textile designer and producer and has her atelier in Ljubljana. There was interest of her to purchase genuine European silk (instead of imported Chinese) and we have found Greek silk producer Tsiakiris who made an offer. Consequently 26 meters of 3 different types of silk has been purchased from TCBL associate member Tsiakiris d.o.o. and shipped to Slovenia. Dusanka Herman will paint the silk, design and produce different products and offer them in her atelier. The case will be added to short runs examples. Currently first batch of silk is being painted:

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Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

28

7

UK - TEXTILE CENTRE OF EXCELLENCE (TCOE)

ACTIVITIES W ITH ASSOCIATES FROM THE 2016 CALL Practice based projects with schools and design schools on sustainability and upcycling have been undertaken. A specific practice based project, in conjunction with Bradford College of Art, showed knitting and weaving students how to research via the internet and create mood boards using Illustrator. The students have now completed their course, passing with Distinctions!

J ANE HAGUE /GRACES CLOSET. Jane is one of Ruth Farrell’s old business colleagues who approached The Centre with a new business idea. Ruth quickly saw the great potential and value in Jane’s idea and brand concept.

Grace’s Closet will offer fashionable yet practical clothing for new mums who are breastfeeding. All styles will be made in the UK using UK fabric mills. The clothing will be affordable yet elegant and durable enabling the customer to feel special throughout the breast-feeding stage whilst offering washable, practical cover-up styles.

Ruth has so far helped Jane on her key styles and customer offer and is now starting the design development /fit stage of the process. She has also given Jane contacts for sourcing her fabrics. Jane meanwhile has undertaken market research and has a focus group ready to engage in wearer trials once the product is ready to test.

STEPHANIE HOOLE Continued sourcing support and guidance to start-up business 'with grit and grace' bespoke and specialist sportswear. With The Lab manager’s support and training Stephanie has now sourced the perfect fabric; fully designed and built the range she would like to offer and located a development and short runs unit in the UK called ‘London Contour Company’. Ruth Farrell will continue her involvement until the business fully comes to fruition and the website is launched.

SAM & NICHOLAS /MEN ’S SHIRT COMPANY A new business start-up that our Labs have mentored and put in contact with various UK fabric merchants and CMT units for their short run production.

J ACKAL T RICK For new start up business Jackal Trick a specific training programme was provided by Ruth Farrell The Centre’s Lab manager. Jackal Trick are a bespoke cycle clothing manufacturer based in Huddersfield. The company was launched at the beginning of the year and can be found at: https://jackaltrick.co.uk/. A case study on the company is available via http://tcbl.eu/resources.

Module

Training curriculum

Date

Location

Module 1

Range building/defining offer/men’s and ladies Spring summer and Autumn Winter. What are Key silhouettes and key styling details

07.12.16

Huddersfield

Module 1

Preparing to be considered list. Cadding each range plan using illustrator

14.12.16

Huddersfield

Module 1

How to build colour palettes. Standardising length details

21.12.16

Huddersfield

Module 1

producing Tech packs including: working drawings, creating a spec and how to grade

04.01.17

Huddersfield

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Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

Module

Training curriculum

Date

Location

Module 1

Tracing existing silhouettes for key silhouettes

13.01.17

Huddersfield

Module 2

Adapting traced silhouettes for development sampling and how to lay and cut out

20.01.17

Jackal

Module 2

Use of machinery and safety

27.01.17

Jackal

Module 2

making first fit samples and how to fit

02.02.17

Jackal

Module 2

how to change and adapt patterns after fitting to produce pre prod or second fit samples

10.02.17

Jackal

Module 2

How to draft a basic top block

17.02.17

Jackal

Module 3

How to draft a basic legging block

22.02.17

Jackal

Module 3

How to draft a sleeve

03.03.17

Jackal

Module 3

Defining details to each silhouette includes design details and print offer

10.03.17

Jackal

Module 3

Finalising all patterns after above decisions and following final fit stage

17.03.17

Jackal

Module 3

How to prepare costings. Question and answers and final assessment

24.03.17

Jackal

MAIN LOCAL O UTPUTS OF PILOT ACTIVITIES ADAM HAINSWORTH/ENTERPRISE As a specialist textile company, AW Hainsworth has been an unrivalled market leader for over 230 years. Abimelech William Hainsworth started manufacturing woollen cloth in Yorkshire in 1783, investing in local people and building strong partnerships with customers and suppliers.

The proposed project3 was undertaken in partnership with Leeds Beckett University. The company initially aimed to refurbish 100,000 square feet of previous manufacturing and warehouse space, developing new, purpose-built ‘innovation incubator’ spaces. The plan was actioned but initially on a smaller scale due to finances. The first Candidate in place was one of our TCBL Associates Rhian Kempadoo of Kempadoo Miller headwear.

3

https://www.kempadoo.com/our-story-1/

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Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

The remaining spaces candidates were sought out through the University. Candidates working within each space will be able to work autonomously as well as interact with likeminded creatives around them. People entering the space are able to draw on the many years of experience and Industry knowledge of the Hainsworth family and their employees. There is also be the opportunity to work with the Hainsworth own skilled machine operators and technicians to develop and bring new ideas to fruition. From which new business models and groundbreaking Designs and processes can be achieved.

Likewise, the Hainsworth business stands to find new concepts and potential new products that hopefully could become firm commercial enterprises. The concept weaves university training with Industry and Industry best practices and production processes.

The set-up has thus far proven to be successful, attracting many local businesses, organisations and politicians to the space initiating new ideas and potential business interactions.

DAVID MORRISH Businessman, designer and tailor David Morrish set up Kingfly Tailoring – Tailored to suit you – Fit for a King with the aim of offering a mobile design and manufacture service of personalised menswear suitings focusing on high quality, detailing, fit and style.

Adopting a user centered format, Kingfly co-designs garments to exceed customer expectations and needs, thus developing an emotional attachment to the products, creating a sense of 31

Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

longevity and care. The Kingfly experience is just as important as the finished product itself, focusing on validation, authenticity and personal attention throughout the design and manufacturing process.

Kingfly Tailoring is underpinned by luxury through the whole design and make process. The “Young Turk” customer is not age specific nor do they fit into a specific demographic or character profile. They will however demand something original, personalised, moving away from the status quo and not afraid to be noticed.

Kingfly Tailoring is a Yorkshire based company and is keen to keep manufacture in the local region where possible, but willing to source nationally if need be. Respecting traditional craftsmanship skills and British Heritage, Kingfly will work with manufactures and artisans, while embracing new technologies and processes, particularly those addressing digital printing on worsted cloth and personalised weaving. Kingfly looks at the user centred experience from a design and communication perspective and also the designer to manufacture communication experience in an attempt to create a very personalised business model fit for the modern man, blending digital and physical environments.

TCBL has assisted in various ways. Through MTIX, it has helped to pre-prepare lengths of worsted fabric using the environmentally friendly MLSE laser-plasma machine to enable David to see how effective this treatment was. The fabric was then digitally printed at one of the Textile Centre’s associate companies. Further trials have continued at MTiX since. Local company Dugdale Bros & Co. donated cloth to David to help with the trials because they see the potential of this process for future business; both with David and other customers.

TCBL has also linked Kingfly with C&J Antich to enable David to start business on his made to order suit offer. Antich have already undertaken one off orders for Kingfly meeting the co-design customer order demand on unprinted suits whilst the print trials continue. Antich also made the bespoke wedding suit for David’s wedding this year.

RECRUITING NEW ASSOCIATES IN 2017 In the UK promotion of the call was undertaken by preparing a direct mailing list to potential associates. The call was also promoted using The Centres own website and Facebook site.

Face to face meetings and Group studio open days were also arranged for potential candidates.

Support for the filling in application was provided on demand to those who needed it. A meeting in London at the Textile Forum resulted in an application from Alison Lewy MBE, of London based Fashion Angel. Alison is now playing an important role in the Short Runs business case.

LOCAL PERSPECTIVES AND PLANS FOR NEXT YEAR A new business model is being developed between the University of Huddersfield and our Design and make Labs. The work will involve the provision of mentoring and practical support as well as bespoke customisation for start-up businesses. Further potential new business models are proposed through our collaboration with Rita Britton of Nomad Atelier (Yorkshire clothing brand) and Fabio Augusto (Prato fabric designer) for short runs.

Resources will continue to be directed towards sector training in order to bridge the skills gap in the textile industry. The work will enable local jobs to be filled, often within The Centres manufacturing members.

Practical support towards design development and new product entry will continue via guidance and practical support to our associates and pilots. Jane Hague, of start-up business Graces 32

Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

Closet, provides one interesting example; the collaboration between Jenny Holloway, of Fashion Enter, and new business start-up, Sam & Nicholas, for their short run production, is another (see above).

Meetings have been planned with Kate Hills of Make it British, Rita Britton of Nomad Atelier, Kathy O’Driscoll UK retail consultant and Ruth Farrell The Centre’s Labs manager to discuss potential new CMT business units in our local area. Rita, Kathy and Kate Hills all met at the recent TCBL_2017 in Athens.

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8

VENETO - UNIONCAMERE DEL VENETO

ACTIVITIES W ITH ASSOCIATES FROM THE 2016 CALL 16 associate members from Veneto Region joined TCBL Network in May 2016: 12 enterprises and 4 advisors. These associates (listed in the table below) showed different profiles, dimensions and interests.

ENTERPRISES – FACTORIES Name

Description

Confezioni Sartena

Tailoring of coats

Marzotto Group Spa

Leading textile fashion company

Zanetti Moda Srl

Women’s shirts production since 1965

ENTERPRISES - LABORATORIES Name

Description

I Lavori di Penelope by Palla Milena

Production of woven products by hand using local wool

Lana e Dintorni

Laboratory working with wool, creations using felt and knitted wool of

Lana Di Fanny

Production of scarves and hats using local wool and silk

Mob-Vintage

Clothing and vintage accessories

De Caro Sas by Dalla Pasqua

Made to measure men’s shirts and children clothes. Recycling and reuse waste in designer products.

Slow Clothing Srl

Tailor-made female luxury Italian dresses production, made on customer measures.

St.Georges – A.MA. by Collodel Mara

Knitwear factory. Clothing design and production using wool and mohair for winter and elasticised viscose for the summer collections

Tessitura La Colombina – Nicki Silk mill, weaving of wool and fashion products producer Colombo Tiemme by Giuliano Secco

Tailoring and finishing workshop

ADVISORS Name

Description

ARIT - Associazione Reti D'impresa Italiane

Experts in Business Networking

Anyway Srls

Experts in intellectual property, patents, trade marks

Centro Consorzi

Experts in the promotion and reconstruction of local supply chains, involved in local wool chain

Seta Etica

Silk value chain experts rebuilding this value chain in Italy

Tessitura La Colombina-Nicki Colombo was selected to participate to the Annual Conference in Huddersfiled and had the opportunity to start immediately interacting with TCBL enterprises and labs coming from different countries.

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Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

Soon after the first Annual Conference in Huddersfiled, a first meeting was organized by UCV at FabLab Venezia (end of July 2016). 12 out of the 16 associates attended that meeting; also the 2 labs based in Veneto (Lanificio Paoletti and FabLab) were present. One of the main purposes of the meeting was giving the chance to associates to present themselves, talk face-to-face and start creating a local TCBL community. It was also a great opportunity to learn more about associates’ expectations and needs, as well as giving them the chance to get familiar with the project and the first tools at disposal (ning website and working groups).

Additional meetings and interviews with TCBL members were implemented in the following months, especially to test their interest in participating to national plots and study cases.

Providing them additional occasions for interaction and some first tools/services were crucial for their active involvement.

Most of enterprises joined TCBL with the hope to find a way to increase their sales and their visibility, although only some of them really showed the readiness in grasping new opportunities and experimenting with other members.

MAIN LOCAL O UTPUTS OF PILOT ACTIVITIES In year 2 conditions for cooperation and experimentations were created. After the identification and selection of the first associates, it was crucial to raise awareness of the opportunity offered

by TCBL and support interactions among associates.

Both the Short runs and the Independent case studies were identified as useful tools to engage with the associates in Veneto.

UCV collected the interest of some companies to be actively involved in experimenting new ways of producing: • •

• •

Slow Clothing is interested in testing digital body scanning.

St.Georges showed interest in learning how to use a digital pattern making software and took part to the webinar organised for TCBL associates in March 2017. Moreover this company gave full availability put their know-how in knitting at disposal of other TCBL associates (designers, enterprises).

The atelier “De Caro” expressed their interest and availability to cooperate with Sicilian designers to test a new business model and production feasibility.

An interesting cooperation between Seta Etica & Tessitura La Colombina-Nicki Colombo was also initiated.

RECRUITING NEW ASSOCIATES IN 2017 During the second year of the project (August 2016 – March 2017) UCV listed all the relevant initiatives and companies in the T&C sector which were identified in the web or in occasion of meetings. Once the 2017 Call was launched, UCV translated the contents into Italian and prepared an ad hoc information pack, which was distributed to companies through direct mail.

Specific potential candidates were called in person and informed about the call. Support for filling in the application was provided on demand to those who needed it

LOCAL PERSPECTIVES AND PLANS FOR NEXT YEAR UCV will contact the new members in order to map their interest and will also promote ad hoc meetings to engage new members with the local associates.

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Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

Further efforts will be put in promoting both national and international cooperation, including the involvement of the most active associates in business cases and already operating labs.

Participation in business cases will be further encouraged, focusing on obtaining specific cooperation results.

A special attention will be given to involve relevant stakeholders and gather efforts made locally in order to develop a Silk business case, taking inspiration from results achieved through the Cotton business case in Greece.

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Associate Enterprises in TCBL Territories: 2017 Edition TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

DOCUMENT INFORMATION REVISION HISTORY This document is Annex 7 of TCBL Deliverable 4.2, “T&C Business Systems: Internal Pilots”, of 15.07.2017. Authors: Athanase Contargyris (MIRTEC), Michele Osella (ISMB), Maria Adele Cipolla (eZavod), Michela Bergamin (UCV), Jesse Marsh (Prato), Paolo Guarnieri (Prato), Richard Axe (TCoE), Ruth Farrell (TCoE), Darko Fercej (eZavod), Ana Sampaio (Sanjotec), Luca Leonarsi (ARCA), and Dieter Stellmach (DITF). The contribution was specifically authored by Dieter Stellmach (DITF), Athanase Contargyris (MIRTEC), Michela Bergamin (UCV), Paolo Guarnieri (Prato), Richard Axe (TCoE), Ruth Farrell (TCoE), Darko Fercej (eZavod), Ana Sampaio (Sanjotec) and Luca Leonardi (ARCA)..

REVISION

DATE

AUTHOR

ORGANISATION

DESCRIPTION Compilation of partner inputs and draft for review Layout as separate Guidebook

Version 1

10.07.2017

Thanos Contargyris

MIRTEC

Version 2

15.07.2017

Jesse Marsh

Prato

STATEMENT OF ORIGINALITY This deliverable contains original unpublished work except where clearly indicated otherwise.

Acknowledgement of previously published material and of the work of others has been made through appropriate citation, quotation or both.

COPYRIGHT This work is licensed by the TCBL Consortium under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License, 2015-2016. For details, see http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/ The TCBL Consortium, consisting of: Municipality of Prato (PRATO) Italy; German Institutes for Textile and Fiber Research - Center for Management Research (DITF) Germany; Istituto Superiore Mario Boella (ISMB) Italy; Skillaware (SKILL) Italy; The Oxford Brookes University (OBU) UK; imec (IMEC) Belgium; Tavistock Institute (TAVI) UK; Materials Industrial Research & Technology Center S.A. (MIRTEC) Greece; Waag Society (WAAG) Netherlands; Huddersfield & District Textile Training Company Ltd (TCOE) UK; eZavod (eZAVOD) Slovenia; Consorzio Arca (ARCA) Italy; Unioncamere del Veneto (UCV) Italy; Hellenic Clothing Industry Association (HCIA) Greece; Sanjotec - Centro Empresarial e Tecnológico (SANJO) Portugal; Clear Communication Associates Ltd (CCA) UK.

DISCLAIMER All information included in this document is subject to change without notice. The Members of the TCBL Consortium make no warranty of any kind with regard to this document, including, but not limited to, the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. The Members of the TCBL Consortium shall not be held liable for errors contained herein or direct, indirect, special, incidental or consequential damages in connection with the furnishing, performance, or use of this material.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The TCBL project has received funding from the European Union's Horizon 2020 Programme for research, technology development, and innovation under Grant Agreement n.646133.

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