#TCBL_2018

TCBL HANDBOOKS

#TCBL_2018

Co-funded by Horizon 2020

ANNEX I TO TCBL D 8.8 - 30 JUNE 2018

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INTRODUCTION

The #TCBL_2018 icon

This guidebook describes the 2018 edition of #TCBL, the yearly event/conference of the TCBL community. Building on the formula developed for the first and second editions in 2016 and 2017, #TCBL_2018 was organised according to a series of modules, as follows: • • • • • • • •

TCBL_Live: our TEDx-style session with seven stimulating 18-minute talks TCBL_Local: visits to local companies and production sites TCBL_Night: CreativeWear Fest, a multi-venue exhibit of textile art and design TCBL_Talk: conference-style, with welcome addresses and plenary keynotes TCBL_News: update on TCBL developments over the last year, with an emphasis on testimonials from the Business Pilots TCBL_Jam: rapid sequences of 5-minute presentations from TCBL Associates TCBL_Next: the welcoming ceremony for new Associates and announcement of future editions of #TCBL TCBL_Meet: a B2B meet-up session

This document is intended as a quick guidebook for: • • •

Those who attended the conference and wish to review what happened Those who missed the conference and want an overview of sessions and speakers Those interested in organising future editions of #TCBL.

The paper is structured according to four main sections: • • •

The first and second provide an overview of each day’s session modules.

The third provides information on the conference organisation The fourth provides insights and ideas for future editions.

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1.

#TCBL_2018 DAY ONE

#TCBL_2018 was organised as a three-day event, 29-31 May, 2018, in different venues in the City of Prato. The venue for Day One was the Centro per l'Arte Contemporanea Luigi Pecci, the first Italian institution which has been built from scratch to present, collect, document and promote the most advanced artistic research.1

W ELCOME ADDRESSES

Matteo Biffoni, Mayor of Prato

Welcome addresses opened the conference on the first day, and the high level of participants underlined the political attention paid to TCBL. • • • •

Daniela Toccafondi, Assessor of Productive Activities, City of Prato Matteo Biffoni, Mayor of Prato Stefano Ciuoffo, Assessor of Productive Activities, Tuscany Region Cristiana Perrella, Director of the Pecci Museum

TCBL_LIVE TCBL_Live is our TED style module that includes seven 18-minute talks that are staged and filmed in order to produce quality videos. Speakers at TCBL_Live are emergent, cutting-edge innovators, and their talks give a personal angle on how they are realising their vision. The lineup consists of a mix of international and local speakers, who are all coached and coordinated by Niki Ernst, an official “TEDx Ambassador”.

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More information at http://www.centropecci.it/en/home

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Niki Ernst presenting TCBL_Live

The presentations were divided into two sessions, “Tech Xcited” and “Fashion Change”.

Who Niki Ernst, IACy

What Introduction

SESSION ONE: TECH XCITED Marco Ricchetti, Sustainability Lab

Safer Chemicals in Fashion Brands call for more transparency, but the landscape is cluttered with compliance requirements. A story of Cannibals and Forks.

Neliana Fuenmayor, Transparent Company

Testing Provenance A case study involving the use of the Provenance blockchain service to track the history of clothing products for transparent sustainability.

Nicola Antonelli, Luisa Via Roma

Becoming digital How a family retail business became one of Italy’s most successful on-line e-commerce services.

Networking break

During the break, visits to exhibitions at the Pecci Museum

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Veronica Tonini of Salvatore Ferragamo at TCBL_Live

SESSION TWO: F ASHION CHANGE Veronica Tonini, Ferragamo

Salvatore Ferragamo’s sustainable passion From supply chain monitoring to circular business models, from environmental protection to cultural anchoring in the brand’s distinguished history.

Nin Castle, Reverse Resources

Circular services and transparency A look at how the Reverse Resources textile leftover marketplace addresses the barrier of an opaque fashion industry.

Ina Budde, Circular Fashion

The Circular Double Loop How circular design principles need to and can connect with circular production and consumption patterns.

Stefano Mangini, Polimoda

Which Fashion Futures?

How design schools are connecting with sustainable future scenarios.

TCBL_LOCAL The afternoon of day one was dedicated to our traditional tour of local factories and places of interest. The visits included three itineraries.

What Lanificio Ricceri The Made in Italy fabrics excellence

Description Lanificio Ricceri is one of the most important textile companies in Prato since 1925. It includes all the stages of processing such as wool washing, carbonizzo, carded spinning, twisting, dyeing and finishing. They are very

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involved in environmental sustainability issues, and in the development of a process management system aimed at reducing chemicals in production, in line with the main brands’ requirements.

For more information: http://www.lanificioricceri.it/ Linea Più Italia The world’s acknowledged leader in the field of yarns for the knitwear industry

Lineapiù has done much to revolutionize the history of knitwear, starting in 1987 when it presented the first 100% viscose yarn. Since 1975, Lineapiù has created over 4,000 yarns, over 30,000 knitted swatches and thousands of experimental knitted garments. This wealth of materials, a real “treasure”, is preserved in the company’s Historical Archives.

For more information: http://www.lineapiu.com/en/

Urban trekking Urban trekking of Prato Industrial Archeology, a not-tomiss circuit of sites that is approximately 2 km long.

This tour visited some of the most fascinating abandoned textile factories in the Prato area: - Lanificio Calamai; - Il Fabbricone; - Cimatoria Leopoldo Campolmi; - the former Fabbrica Lucchesi.

TCBL_NIGHT A night-time event was held at the Corte Genova, with exhibition spaces belonging to the cultural associations ARTFORMS, StudioCorte17 and SEDICI hosting a series of workshops, exhibits, etc. with videos, textile art and other explorations of textiles and clothing. The exhibits were organised jointly with the INTERREG-MED CreativeWear Project and saw the participation of CreativeWear Hubs in Prato, Valencia, Palermo, Slovenia, Athens and Bari.

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Performance by Claudia Di Gangi of the Palermo Crowd Hub at the CreativeWear Fest

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2.

#TCBL_2018 DAY TWO

The second day was held in the Textile Museum of Prato, the largest cultural centre in Italy dedicated to the promotion of historical and contemporary textile production and art. 2

W ELCOME ADDRESSES

Daniela Toccafondi, Assessor for Economic Development, City of Prato

A fresh round of welcome addresses opened the conference on the second day, and the high level of participants again underlined the political attention paid to TCBL. • • • • • •

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Daniela Toccafondi, Assessor for Economic Development, City of Prato Andrea Cavicchi, President of the North Tuscany Industrial Association Marco Landi, President of the Fashion Chapter of the National Artisan Business Association Fabio Petrella, President of the Fashion Chapter of the Artisan Business Association of Prato Luca Giusti, President of the Chamber of Commerce of Prato and President of the Artisan Business Association of Prato Claudio Bettazzi, President of the Artisan’s Confederation of Prato and Vice President of the Artisan’s Confederation for Central Tuscany.

More info at http://www.museodeltessuto.it/?lang=en

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#TCBL_2018 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

TCBL_TALK This is our more traditional conference style module, with leading keynote speakers addressing the main issues facing the T&C industry today.3

David Schmeilzeisen of ITA Aachen at TCBL_Talk What

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Who

Anna Detheridge Connecting Cultures

Fashion Change: a systemic approach Evidence from her landmark book “Fashion Change”, bringing together four years of the Out of Fashion initiative, indicating real industrial transformation and reflections on new directions.

David Schmeilzeisen ITA-Aachen

Workplace 4.0 – Do workers face a change of requirements due to industry 4.0?

State of the Art research in sensors and robotics for the T&C industry, and the central role of human skills and knowledge in innovation processes.

Francesco Marini, Marini Industries

Sustainable innovation in the Prato district The impact of TCBL led business developments on the industrial ecosystem of Europe’s leading textile district.

Discussion

Moderator: Daniela Toccafondi, Assessor for Economic Development.

Douwe Jan Joustra of the C&A Foundation apologized for a last-minute cancellation.

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#TCBL_2018 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

TCBL_NEWS TCBL_Newsbuilt on and developed the module introduced in TCBL_2017 for a more in-depth view of activities in the TCBL project over the last year. The organisation included an overview of developments in the main project areas, with the TCBL Business Pilots illustrated by “True Stories”, or testimonials from some of the main industrial participants.

Clea Polar of Coco&Rico discussing the Independents Business Pilot at TCBL_News Title and Speaker

Description

Last year on TCBL Jesse Marsh, City of Prato, TCBL Project Manager

The overview of progress in TCBL since the 2017 conference first presented the project scope and objectives and then focused on key developments in relation to the main TCBL communities.

Eco-friendly Production Paolo Guarnieri, City of Prato

This Business Case looks at the issue of management of chemical usage to reduce environmental impact. True Stories included: • Francesca Rulli, Process Factory, who described the method adopted and the potential impact.

• Simone Bellucci, Lanificio Mario Bellucci, who described the importance of participation for his wool textile mill.

Natural Fibres Thanos Contargyris, MIRTEC

The Natural Fibres Business Case is reconstructing the entire value chain – from field to shop window – starting from sustainably grown cotton. True Stories included: • Emmanouela Kourudi, Thrakika Ekkokistiria, whose ginning mill works directly with cotton farmers to improve their practice.

• George Tsiakiris, Tsiakiris, interested in extending the pilot activities to the silk value chain.

Short Runs Bill Macbeth, Textile Centre of Excellence

The Short Runs Business Case responds to the increasing pressure to downscale production cycles, addressing the problems and issues involved. True Stories included: • Louise Stocks-Young, who told of launching her independent brand and overcoming the barriers to production.

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•

Fabio Giusti, Trafi Creatività Tessile, who recounted how his textile factory benefited from a shift to short runs.

Independents Maria Adele Cipolla, eZavod

The Independents Business Case aims to empower and network independent designer/producers as a potential force in renovating the T&C industry. True Stories included: • Michele Gullo, Gullo Filati, whose engagement with the TCBL (knitting and sewing) Café rejuvenated his local haberdashery.

• Clea Polar, Coco&Rico, who is developing new working and production methods for local small-scale production centres.

BioShades Cecilia Raspanti, Waag Society

The BioShades Business Case offers a radical approach to dyeing fabrics. True Stories included: • Maria Kanelli, NTUA, who described the characteristics testing activities on-going with bio-dyes for industrial testing • Guy Buyle, Centexbel, who described the steps required for scaling up the bio-dyes method for industrial production.

Digital Heritage Filippo Guarini, Textile Museum Prato

The Digital Heritage Business Case aims to raise awareness in the T&C sector of the importance of archives. True Stories included: • UbertoCiatti, Inseta, on how the digital archiving helped the company to valorize their heritage collections.

• Alberto Pestelli, Texmoda, on the impact on brand value of promoting the textile archives.

ADVISORY BOARD DISCUSSION

The #TCBL_2018 Advisory Board discussion

The presentation of project results and Business Pilots was followed by a discussion and evaluation on the part of the TCBL Advisory Board. This is a panel that meets only on occasion of the yearly #TCBL events, providing strategic guidance both at the event and through followup phone interviews in the successive months. The composition of the panel aims to both mix

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#TCBL_2018 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs stable members and ‘new entries’, international and local representatives, and a variety of viewpoints including those of both large and small T&C enterprises.

• • • •

Advisory Board Members4

Discussion

Anna Detheridge, Connecting Cultures NunoVaz Silva, Innovation expert Fabrice Jonas, ModeLab Véronique Allaire-Spitzer, BrandEmotion

The advisory board discussion highlighted the unusual depth and breadth of the on-going initiatives in TCBL, allowing to build a coherent scenario for the future of the T&C industry that is capable of piecing together different directions and initiatives that are all working in a similar direction. The project was encouraged to maintain this high-level umbrella function, in particular keeping the interesting mix of large and small companies with different degrees of artisan vs industrial production.

A stronger engagement in the policy dimension was suggested, with the identification of regulatory barriers to address as well as new form and shape for policy action to support the kind of change that TCBL is promoting.

TCBL was further encouraged to strengthen its brand to represent its stance on key emerging values and to deepen cooperation arrangements with similar networking initiatives e.g. in Fashion Tech, ethical fashion, etc.

CLOSING REMARKS Concluding remarks for the morning session were presented by John Cleuren of the Directorate General for Research and Innovation of the European Commission, the Project Officer for the TCBL Project.

John Cleuren of the European Commission concluding the morning session

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Edward Anderson of the World Bank, Lutz Walter of Euratex, Luca Pereno of Leroy Merlin, and Solenne Romagni of the Brussels Hub Lab all apologized for last-minute cancellations.

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#TCBL_2018 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

TCBL_JAM TCBL_Jam was based on the highly successful module developed in previous years, though with variations that picked up on the main lessons learned. The two main changes included: •

•

Presentations related to Associate Services and TCBL Startups were newly integrated into the Jam sequencing (#TCBL_2017 attempted parallel sessions for the more technical presentations).

The thematic structure of the conference overall – Digital, Human, Circular, Transparent – was used to classify the Jam presentations.

TCBL_Jam for the 2018 edition thus consisted of four rounds of 5-minute presentations grouped into two sessions, separated by a one-hour networking break. As before, each presentation followed a fixed format of 7 slides colour-coded for the type of initiative. Each of the four rounds mixed presentation types to include: • • • • •

Business Labs Creative Hubs (of the INTERREG MED CreativeWear project) TCBL Associates (primarily T&C businesses) Startups Service Providers

The speakers and their roles and topics are described together in the following.

Zoe Romano of WeMake at TCBL_Jam

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#TCBL_2018 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

ROUND ONE: DIGITAL Who

Role

What

Manuela Mihailiasa, Sofiaman

Enterprise

Digital production

Zoe Romano, WeMake

Lab

Digital making

Miriam Loda, Hero’s Collective

Startup

Embroidery

Boudewijn Mos, RemoKey

Service

Tracing recycled fibres

Alexandru Mitocaru, Printer Zone

Enterprise

Patterns that fir

Annick Jehanne, HUB mode

Lab

Fashion tech events

Olof Werngren, Sourcebook

Service

Digital community

Marzia Lanfranchi of Cotton Diaries at TCBL_Jam

ROUND TWO: HUMAN Who

Role

What

Vivilla Zampini, Es’givien

Enterprise

Social fashion

Isabel Almeida, Olives

Startup

Felt crafting

Lea Cipot & Darko Fercej, Zavod Korak

Enterprise

Artisan upscaling

Stefano Rossi, LITA.co

Service

Social impact investment

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#TCBL_2018 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

Who

Role

What

Takis Lybereas, SEPEE

Creative Hub

Skills development

Marzia Lanfranchi, Cotton Diaries

Enterprise

Video stories

Sauro Guerri, ASTRI

Enterprise

Recycling fibres

Sauro Guerri of ASTRI at TCBL_Jam

ROUND T HREE : CIRCULAR Who

Role

What

Luca Cappelli, AITEX

Lab

Eco processes

Nicolò Cipriani, Rifò

Startup

Re-use

Michel Byvoet, Bivolino

Enterprise

Shirt Amnesty

Cathryn Hall, Anneka textile

Startup

Re-woven fibres

Maria Kanelli, NTUA

Lab

Biological dyeing

Stefano Panconesi, Panconesi

Enterprise

Natural dyes

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#TCBL_2018 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

Stefano Panconesi of Panconesi at TCBL_Jam

ROUND FOUR: T RANSPARENT Who

Role

What

Guy Buyle, Centexbel

Lab

Transparent materials

Ioannis Kolovos, Thessalian network

Enterprise

Responsible production

Rossana Carullo, INMATEX

Creative Hub

Local materials

Simona Rossi & Igor Santarpia, Air Guru

Startup

Air filtering

Martina Gheri, Cleviria

Service

Radical transparency

Petra Grmek Green, Brandi & Bandi

Enterprise

Networking brands

During the networking break between the two sessions (i.e. between Rounds Two and Three), Fridolin Wild of OBU provided a hands-on demonstration of on-going work applying Augmented Reality technologies to the fashion experience.

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AR Fashion demonstration with Fridolin Wild at TCBL_Jam

TCBL_NEXT This is the closing module for the meeting sessions of the #TCBL yearly event. As previously, TCBL_Next was a mostly ceremonial moment for welcoming the new 2018 partners and Associates: • • • • • •

12 Business Labs for a total of 35 70 Associates (plus 21 upgraded from previous calls) for a total of 227 30 Advisors with the new point system 5 Service Providers for a total of 15 8 Startups for a total of 15 3 Creative Hubs for a total of 8

In addition, the venues were announced for future editions of #TCBL: • •

#TCBL_2019: Iasi, Romania (hosted by Reginnova NE) #TCBL_2020: Barcellona, Spain (hosted by Fab Textiles) the first edition of #TCBL following the conclusion of the EU-funded project.

TCBL_MEET The goal of TCBL_Meet is to facilitate face-to-face business encounters between local and international TCBL Associates. Following unsuccessful attempts to organise this session for the 2016 and 2017 editions, this module finally saw the light in #TCBL_2018, thanks also to the organisational commitment of the regional T&C innovation hub, Tecnotessile. Around 15 research centers, service centers, laboratories, fab-labs, start-ups and above all manufacturing companies

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#TCBL_2018 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

attended the workshop. The matchmaking was based on speed-date meetings, able to foster collaboration in research and business.

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3.

ORGANISATIONAL ASPECTS

The organisation of #TCBL_2018 benefited significantly from the work carried out for the 2016 and 2017 editions and reported in Deliverables 8.4 and 8.6, and thus validated the module based approach as one that is relatively easy to replicate in view of attaining sustainability after the conclusion of the TCBL project.

The 2018 edition confirmed the central role of #TCBL as an identity-building experience for the whole community with over 350 participants, a good increase on 2017. The main aspects of the organisation are discussed below.

CONFERENCE PLANNING The Google Doc developed for #TCBL_2017 was again used and allowed the different partners to work as a group for the conference organisation. As before, both the organisation and the selection of speakers reflects a balance between the international dimension at the project level and the local level of the Prato industrial ecosystem. The main sections of the on-line planner include: •

• • •

• •

Roles: this lists the various roles, from scientific coordination to organisation of each individual module, with those responsible at the Project Level as well as the local organisation.

General agenda: this worksheet was used for the initial planning, assigning timeslots to the different modules and venue spaces across the two days.

Budget: this worksheet allows to keep track of the main budget items (venue, video, catering, etc.) with respect to previous year editions.

Travel: this worksheet keeps track of which speakers/participants are being offered travel by which partners. This is important both to ensure the success of TCBL_Jam and to distribute invitations to keynote speakers and Advisory Board members in a fair way.

General to-do: This is a reminder list of things to think of in time, such as the tenders for audio/video, the design of the logo icon, etc.

Advisory Board: This keeps the list of Advisory Board members, including the more ‘stable’ ones from previous editions and those added locally or as a function of speaking roles.

When the venue and general agenda is set, a tab is opened for each of the conference modules, so that different partners and the scientific committee can interactively build the agenda together. This flexibility is especially important considering the number of speakers involved – over 50 PowerPoint presentations were produced – and the fact that many confirm their availability at the last minute.

For #TCBL_2018, the enlistment of speakers began as early as December 2017, in an attempt to best represent the Prato industrial ecosystem and its engagement with TCBL. This included both business and institutional speakers, as ultimately reflected in the conference agenda, as well as, the extensive number of political welcome addresses.

Telcos were held with nearly all of the speakers for TCBL_Live and Talk – both local and international – to ensure engagement with TCBL overall and alignment with the objectives and values of the project and the conference. As a result, the conference proved to be an important opportunity to establish new alliances for a long-term impact.

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COMMUNICATION S TRATEGY In the context of the new Communication Strategy for the project overall, 5 this aspect played a particular role for #TCBL_2018. The specific strategy for the conference – including thematic orientation and title – was defined in a series of telcos in February and March 2018. The first of these was a general brainstorming, identifying some of the major issues of concern both to the local audience of the Prato textile district and to the broader and more varied audience of TCBL’s EU-wide community.

The second telco thus led to a definition of both the conference title and subtitle and four keywords indicating the main drivers: Digital, Human, Circular, Transparent. These four keywords are proving to have a value above and beyond the conference, as for instance the TCBL_zine website has been restructured to classify articles according to the same four keywords.

CONFERENCE BUILD-UP A thoroughly re-design website for the TCBL project went online in March, 2018, and soon after a newly designed template for #TCBL_2018 was also launched. The template is designed to be duplicated for future events, as well as to retrospectively upload information about the 2017 and 2016 editions.

In parallel, a social channel strategy was launched, presenting the conference programme, speakers, themes and keywords. This campaign was also carried out in coordination with the other local institutions involved, namely the Centro Pecci, the Textile Museum, the communication offices of the City of Prato and those involved in TCBL_Night (the .con association, Corte Genova, etc.). Finally, totems and banners were set up in strategic and central public spaces in the city.

EXECUTION COMMUNICATION In parallel with the definition of the conference title and theme, the team at Flod (recently acquired subcontractor to Skillaware for the TCBL communication strategy) developed the graphics concept for the conference, represented by a stylized figure emerging from an opening in a fabric landscape to explore new horizons. This figure was applied to all of the conference items: totems, badges, posters, and even animated for the video presentation and teaser to convey a strong identity for both the conference and the project, whose presentation video uses the same graphic elements.6 LIVE The organisation of TCBL_Live was again entrusted to our ‘TED Ambassador’ Niki Ernst, who provided the coaching for speakers and animation during delivery. Niki again confirmed his central role in the success of this module, also according to feedback from the speakers. For

5See

TCBL Deliverable 8.7

6https://youtu.be/jT2rJAAvPYo

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#TCBL_2018 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs the post-project editions, speakers at Live will be required to pay Niki’s coaching fee in order to have continuity in the quality of the talks.

VENUES LIVE session was organized on 29th of May in the contemporary art museum Centro per l'Arte Contemporanea Luigi Pecci, the first Italian institution which has been built from scratch to present, collect, document and promote the most advanced artistic research.

TALK, JAM, NEWS and MEET sessions took place in the Textile Museum of Prato, the largest cultural centre in Italy dedicated to the promotion of historical and contemporary textile production and art.

AUDIO AND VIDEO This is a fundamental component of #TCBL and not only for TCBL_Live for which it is obligatory, since having a 5-minute video of each presentation is an important motivation for Associates to attend. Audio and video services were arranged locally, as in previous events, and managed by Flod, the subcontractor to Skillaware who are also responsible for the TCBL Communication Strategy in general.

About 90 days before #TCBL_2018, an Italian-language trailer showing the location and themes of the conference was launched, with the purpose of building a local audience and engaging local businesses and institutions.7 A few weeks later, a new 3-minute TCBL project video was produced, aiming to synthetically illustrated the complexities of the project to a new audience.8 This video was both uploaded to YouTube and published and promoted on Facebook. In parallel, the teaser with the graphical concept of the conference was also launched on Facebook.9 During the conference, seamless live streaming took place on Facebook throughout both days, with graphics (speaker names, titles etc) previously composed on greenscreen in order to immediately create an exportable product.

The videos for each speaker individually were then edited and published to the TCBL YouTube channel,10 with some delay for those in Italian requiring English subtitles. Finally, a video summarizing the two days of the conference, including the TCBL_Night / CreativeWear Fest, was produced and published to YouTube.11 The videos for individual speakers have also been linked to the agenda pages on the TCBL website’s conference section, where it is also possible to download the presentations in PDF format.

7https://bit.ly/2utmcZk 8https://youtu.be/jT2rJAAvPYo 9https://bit.ly/2urrjJK 10https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZcpRQi7vjIxuq50a-8KOxA 11https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BMkQ3yeA4bQ

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#TCBL_2018 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

BUDGET Due to the different weight of the cost items, the overall budget for the local organisation varied significantly with respect to previous editions. The main budget items for #TCBL_2017 include: •

Venue 1: Pecci Museum (1 day)

•

Venue 2: Textile Museum of Prato (2 days)

•

Promotional material / publicity

•

Video / audio recordings and translations

•

Catering

•

TCBL totems

•

Study visits (bus, guides)

•

Video editing

•

Niki Ernst, IACy – TCBL LIVE coaching

In addition, we have to consider the significant contribution of the 21 TCBL partners offering travel costs to an average of two participants each.

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4.

CONSIDERATIONS FOR FUTURE EDITIONS

LESSONS LEARNED Overall (see also the evaluation reports available separately), #TCBL_2018 was again quite a success in the eyes of both the organisers and the participants. The main considerations for future editions include the following: •

•

•

• • •

•

•

The approach for involving the city in the event – especially through the use of multiple venues – gives an important sense of territorial grounding to the conference. This should be maintained where possible.

The sequence of the main modules of #TCBL_2018 mirrored the organisation of the 2016 edition more than 2017. The flow of Live – Local – Talk+News – Jam is ultimately a better sequence and should be maintained where possible. #TCBL_2018 also abandoned the attempt to introduce parallel sessions by re-incorporating Hack and Startup into the Jam. This not only simplifies the logistical organisation but it also maintains community coherence throughout the event.

The Jam benefited from the greater mixture of roles this year, including Startups, Creative Hubs, and Services.

The collaboration with CreativeWear, in particular for the exhibits and performances at TCBL-Night, should become an integral part of the conference where possible.

TCBL_Meet was finally organised and the formula adopted – akin to a speed networking event – proved successful. Future editions should further develop this module, especially with greater up-front planning to ensure a better participation.

The availability of simultaneous translation throughout the event made a substantial contribution to the positive balance between the local and European dimensions and also facilitated the production of multilingual videos.

To reinforce the communication strategy, it would be useful to have 40/60 secondo video interviews with the main speakers in which they briefly present the topic of their talk. These can be very useful for the social media campaign both before and after the conference and work as teasers for the full-length video.

Participants at Day1 of #TCBL_2018 23

#TCBL_2018 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs

SUSTAINABILITY CONSIDERATIONS With each edition of #TCBL, we get one year closer to the end of EU financing and to the selfsustaining model that will be key to the survival of the TCBL ecosystem overall. The 2018 edition validated the hypothesis that the modular approach and the use of on-line collaboration tools not only makes for an interesting and engaging conference experience, but it also makes the organisation of new editions both replicable and flexible.

The special nature of this year’s edition – hosted by the Lead Partner with a specifically political dimension – led to budget significantly greater resources than will be possible for future editions, especially after EU funding ends. On the other hand, this was also the demonstration of the potential benefits to be had from a deep engagement of the local political structures, who in the future could draw on own resources to provide additional visibility for #TCBL. In addition, many of the new elements developed for #TCBL_2018 have been designed for replicability. The website template and most of the communication elements – badges, city map, etc. – can be readily adapted to new editions, thus significantly lowering costs.

All of this improves our chances of reaching agreement with an external Publishing House to support the production of the yearly #TCBL events, with the aim of maintaining #TCBL as an open and accessible event free of charge.

In this context, three issues have been identified that are important to keep in mind for future editions: •

• •

The significant amount of work for the hosting organisation needs to be rewarded with a significant return at both the political and business levels. The 2018 edition was a good example of the level of visibility that is possible to attain.

The extensive distributed travel budgets will need to be substituted by speakers and participants attending at their own expense with a pay-as-you-go meal system.

In the logic of reaching an agreement with a Publishing House, the main purpose of #TCBL – beyond its role in bringing together the community – is to produce quality content, not to make money. All efforts therefore need to be made to lower costs on the one hand, but also to ensure the conference’s attractiveness to leading-edge innovators on the other.

It is a positive step forward that the new partner FabTextile has agreed to host the first postproject edition of #TCBL in Barcelona in 2020. Barcelona is an attractive venue with own premises available that should provide the possibility of really testing our ability to hold the event without EU funding. Having identified the venue and hosting organisation and inserting that into our planning is a first step in the direction of real sustainability.

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#TCBL MEDIA LINKS CONFERENCE VIDEOS 12 CONFERENCE T EASERS Animation with graphics concept: https://bit.ly/2urrjJK Teaser with locations and conference themes: https://bit.ly/2utmcZk #TCBL_2018 #TCBL_2018 New Horizons for the Textile and Clothing Industry: https://youtu.be/BMkQ3yeA4bQ TCBL_LIVE • • • • • • •

Marco Ricchetti, Sustainability Lab: Safer Chemicals in Fashion: https://youtu.be/tBgwQ-JxbM4 Neliana Fuenmayor, A Transparent Company: Testing Provenance: https://youtu.be/DIiNUNaQMIU Nicola Antonelli, Luisa Via Roma: Becoming Digital: https://youtu.be/kuIKqDLOJK0 Veronica Tonini, Ferragamo: Salvatore Ferragamo’s Sustainable Passion: https://youtu.be/C_w1DgZNmvE Nin Castle, Reverse Resources: Circular Services and Transparency: https://youtu.be/WEauoCHabww Ina Budde, Circular Fashion: The Circular Double Loop: https://youtu.be/hOkRJvQvGUQ Stefano Mangini, Polimoda: Which Fashion Futures?: https://youtu.be/m__wb2XitvQ

TCBL_T ALK •

Anna Detheridge, Connecting Cultures: Fashion Change: Designing a Sustainable Future: https://youtu.be/hsbGiV3PSts

TCBL_J AM ROUND ONE: DIGITAL • • • • • • •

Manuela Mihailiasa, Sofiaman > https://youtu.be/kRqFrrVnoL4 Zoe Romano, WeMake > https://youtu.be/wS5QaWdxKjg Miriam Loda, Hero’s Collective > https://youtu.be/pSIgMFbMTQY Boudewijn Mos, RemoKey > https://youtu.be/IqS76sQZznw Alexandru Mitocaru, Printer Zone > https://youtu.be/SvMX91-WGoM Annick Jehanne, HUB mode > https://youtu.be/bqKixPpPmyQ Olof Werngren, Sourcebook > https://youtu.be/tbF3umHBRyM

ROUND TWO: HUMAN • • • • •

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Vivilla Zampini, Es’givien > https://youtu.be/TcT02rB9cOk Lea Cipot & Darko Fercej, Zavod Korak > https://youtu.be/cG-QUMEcauw Stefano Rossi, LITA.co > https://youtu.be/nfRA_Tg3F0U Takis Lybereas, SEPEE > https://youtu.be/wLX01206Mnw Marzia Lanfranchi, Cotton Diaries > https://youtu.be/wy5zVNnojS0

Available as of the publication of this document. Some presentations in Italian may not yet be subtitled.

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#TCBL_2018 TCBL Handbooks Textile & Clothing Business Labs •

Sauro Guerri, ASTRI > https://youtu.be/_bx1RSZ7Uok

ROUND THREE: CIRCULAR • • • • • •

Luca Capelli, AITEX > https://youtu.be/DOHI7aLRa3g Nicolò Cipriani, Rifò > https://youtu.be/1yVaV2gKml8 Michel Byvoet, Bivolino > https://youtu.be/LYB3Bkx0Wxk Cathryn Hall, Anneka textile > https://youtu.be/98pS6LKUpKI Maria Kanelli, NTUA > https://youtu.be/Tu0RyuwR-Xc Stefano Panconesi, Casa Clementina > https://youtu.be/NQvf5wz8XaY

ROUND FOUR: TRANSPARENT • • • • • •

Guy Buyle, Centexbel > https://youtu.be/7uMYTeQ6vb8 Ioannis Kolovos, Thessalian network > https://youtu.be/9KY_LroKpBY Rossana Carullo, INMATEX > https://youtu.be/ipeZwRX35pM Simona Rossi & Igor Santarpia, Air Guru > https://youtu.be/YV2te50yfeE Martina Gheri, Cleviria > https://youtu.be/juiXAvmNBAc Petra Grmek Green, Brandi & Bandi > https://youtu.be/G2l6ykCKEF4

TCBL_NEXT •

Jesse Marsh > https://youtu.be/zfM3VnhQUYA

MEET TCBL - T EXTILE & CLOTHING BUSINESS LABS (ENG) https://youtu.be/jT2rJAAvPYo MEET TCBL - T EXTILE & CLOTHING BUSINESS LABS (ITA SUBTITLES ) https://youtu.be/Kt5RvXB7cL0 #TCBL_2018 SPOT (IN ITALIAN ) https://youtu.be/OjpYlnkZC7Y

CONFERENCE P OWERPOINTS Available through links from the Conference web pages: https://tcbl.eu/tcbl2018/day-one#conference

CONFERENCE FOTO ALBUMS DAY 1 https://business.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.636111003396487.1073741840.12466671454 0921&type=3 Day 2 https://business.facebook.com/pg/projecttcbl/photos/?tab=album&album_id=636625013345086

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DOCUMENT INFORMATION REVISION HISTORY This document is Annex I to TCBL Deliverable 8.6, “TCBL Conference Report and Video 2”. Authors Jesse Marsh and Lorena Vidas, City of Prato and Giovanni Giusti and Alexandra Korey, Flod (subcontractor to Skillaware).

REVISION

DATE

AUTHOR

Version 1 Version 2

14.06.2018 16.07.2018

Version 3

19.07.2018

Jesse Marsh Lorena Vidas, Giovanni Giusti, Alexandra Korey Jesse Marsh

Version 4

24.07.2018

Jesse Marsh

ORGANISATION

DESCRIPTION

City of Prato City of Prato, Flod/Skillaware

First draft Integration of relevant sections

City of Prato City of Prato

Incorporation of contributions and final draft for review Incorporation of reviewers’ comments

STATEMENT OF ORIGINALITY This deliverable contains original unpublished work except where clearly indicated otherwise.

Acknowledgement of previously published material and of the work of others has been made through appropriate citation, quotation or both.

COPYRIGHT This work is licensed by the TCBL Consortium under a Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International License, 2015-2016. For details, see http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/ The TCBL Consortium, consisting of: Municipality of Prato (PRATO) Italy; German Institutes for Textile and Fiber Research - Center for Management Research (DITF) Germany; IstitutoSuperiore Mario Boella (ISMB) Italy; Skillaware (SKILL) Italy; Oxford Brookes University (OBU) UK; imec (IMEC) Belgium; Tavistock Institute (TAVI) UK; Materials Industrial Research & Technology Center S.A. (MIRTEC) Greece; Waag Society (WAAG) Netherlands; Huddersfield & District Textile Training Company Ltd (TCOE) UK; eZavod (eZAVOD) Slovenia; ConsorzioArca (ARCA) Italy; Unioncamere del Veneto (UCV) Italy; Hellenic Clothing Industry Association (HCIA) Greece; Sanjotec - Centro Empresarial e Tecnológico (SANJO) Portugal; Reginnova NE (Reginnova) Romania, Centexbel (CTB) Belgium, InstitutFrançais de la Mode (IFM) France, IAAC (FabTextiles) Spain, Cleviria (Cleviria) Italy, and Sqetch (Sqetch) Netherlands.

DISCLAIMER All information included in this document is subject to change without notice. The Members of the TCBL Consortium make no warranty of any kind with regard to this document, including, but not limited to, the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. The Members of the TCBL Consortium shall not be held liable for errors contained herein or direct, indirect, special, incidental or consequential damages in connection with the furnishing, performance, or use of this material.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The TCBL project has received funding from the European Union's Horizon 2020 Programme for research, technology development, and innovation under Grant Agreement n.646133.

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