TK65 Between Sky and Earth by Tasting Kitchen (TK)

H K D 200 | M O P 200 | R M B 200 | N T D 8 1 0 | S G D 3 5 | U S D 2 6 | G B P 2 0

T A S T I N G 65 65

K I T C H E N

BETWEEN SKY AND EARTH

YUN G N A Y AMAN Soil Home 土一方故

AYUN F N A AM onged l e B g erythin v E e r 所 Whe 各安其

DAYAN N A M A ctures i P n i n Writte 字以画为

T A S T I N G 65

K I T C H E N

BETWEEN SKY AND EARTH

Tasting Kitchen (TK), Asia’s epicurean lifestyle media group, leads the way to the world’s best in food and drink, art and design, and luxury travel adventures. Tasting Kitchen (TK) 是亚太地区最具前瞻性的奢华生活方式品牌 , 荟萃全球高品质的生活文化，艺术设计，以及舌尖上的梦幻美味。 Tasting Kitchen Limited • www.tasting-kitchen.com SHANGHAI: Room H2, No 25, Lane 550 South Shaanxi Road, Shanghai • 上海市徐汇区陕西南路 550 弄嘉善老市 25 号 H2 室 HONG KONG: Units 1-2, 6/F., Oceanic Industrial Centre, 2 Lee Lok Street, Ap Lei Chau, Hong Kong • 香港鸭脷洲利乐街 2 号海湾工贸中心 6 楼 1 室 MACAU: Rua de S. Roque N15-B, San Heng BAC/V, Macau • 澳门圣䘵杞街 15B 新兴大厦地下 B 座

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER 创办人兼出版人 mark@tasting-kitchen.com

Joey Cheang DEPUTY PUBLISHER 副出版人兼主编 joey@tasting-kitchen.com

Lauriane Lemaire

David Hartung

Alicia Beebe

Jaakko Sorsa

MANAGING DIRECTOR 常务董事

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY 摄影总监

ART DIRECTOR 艺术总监

OCEAN TABLE EXECUTIVE CHEF OCEAN TABLE 行政总厨 jaakko@tasting-kitchen.com

J. Carl Kerkman, MFA

Lucy Morgan

John Ng

Amber Qian

IMAGE EDITOR 图像编辑

BUREAU CHIEF, PARIS 巴黎区编辑主管

WINE & SPIRITS DIRECTOR 葡萄酒及烈酒总监

Jin Lao

Alice Liang Andrea Lo Andrew Sun Daniel Cheung Joyce Kwok Juliana Loh Nicole Slater

Phoebe Yeung

MARCOM MANAGER, MAINLAND CHINA 市场传讯经理

lauriane@tasting-kitchen.com

Mamie Chen Marilyn Burkley Robert Burkley Zita Wan SENIOR EDITORS 资深编辑

Kate Nicholson CONTRIBUTING EDITOR ART AND DESIGN 特约编辑－艺术设计专栏

Regina Li CHINESE EDITOR 中文编辑

IMAGE TECHNICIAN 图像技术员

Vivian Pun

DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER 数字媒体经理

Victoria Lei

PROJECT MANAGER 项目经理

SENIOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR 高级客戶总监

Khushee Soni MARKETING EXECUTIVE 市场营销主管

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS 特約作家

Eddie Cheung EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, MAINLAND CHINA 中国内地编辑总监

Luyi Xia CREATIVE LEAD 创意主管

Jonna Chen ACCOUNTS MANAGER 客户经理

ON THE COVER

Photography by David Hartung Pages of Dongba script, the pictographic writing of the Naxi people, on paper handmade from the bark of wild shrubs 以纳西族文字写成的东巴文手稿，纸张以野生灌木树皮手工制成。

GROUP ADVERTISING 广告查询 sales@tasting-kitchen.com SUBSCRIPTIONS 订阅查询 subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com TRANSLATION SERVICES 翻译服务 Babel Communications jonna@babel.com.tw PRINTING 印刷 Asia One Printing Limited 宏亚印务有限公司

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ENJOY RESPONSIBLY

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

WELCOME to issue TK65 Between Sky and Earth . In March, TK Director of Photography David Hartung and I visited Aman’s three resorts in China. At Amandayan, in Lijiang, a Dongba sage named He Yaowei drew us a picture: a line for the sky, a line for the earth, and between them a bowl, a cup, and a small figure with its mouth open. Taken together, it read “Tasting Kitchen.” Marvel Wu, Amandayan’s general manager, invited He Yaowei to teach there. “We cannot do it ourselves,” she told us. “When we built these resorts, Aman’s concept was not to create but to protect.” It’s a modest thing for a luxury hotel to say, and it tells you something about Aman’s connection to local heritage. Amandayan, for example, has a Qing-dynasty examination hall at its center. Amanyangyun, outside Shanghai, stands among ancient camphor trees and Ming and Qing houses moved, beam by beam, from Jiangxi. And in the hills of Hangzhou, Amanfayun occupies a former tea village. In the evenings, Albert Servalls, who runs Amanyangyun, likes to walk out to the King Camphor Tree. “You feel something is there,” he said, “some spirit.” Sky and earth, stone and timber – at Aman, those are a given. What matters is what lives between them. Also in this issue, TK launches, beginning with Mandarin Oriental, The Salon Series, a succession of interviews with cultural leaders that will appear in these pages and on major video and podcast channels. Laurent Kleitman, Mandarin Oriental’s chief executive, told me that what his company sells is only time and emotions. “The scarcest thing that you and I have in this world is time,” he said. Alex Schellenberger, chief brand and marketing officer, was tasked with refreshing the company’s identity soon after he joined. He redrew the wordmark but left the iconic fan untouched. As the group undertakes an ambitious expansion, he talks about growing the brand without losing its soul. The rest of the issue fills the bowl and the cup, in kitchens from Seoul to Kuala Lumpur, at tables in Hong Kong and Macau, and at the best bars in Asia. That leaves the small figure with its mouth open, which would be us.

欢迎阅读 TK 第 65 期《天地之间》。三月，TK 摄影总监 David Hartung 和我走访了安缦位于中国的三家度假酒店。在丽江大研安缦，一位名叫和耀伟的东巴智者为我们画了一幅画：一道代表天的线，一道代表地的线，天地之间，是一只碗、一盏杯，和一个张着嘴的小人像。整体意思正是 Tasting Kitchen。大研安缦总经理吴富香邀请和耀伟到酒店授课。她对我们说：「我们不能代劳。」一家奢华酒店说出这样的话，显得谦逊，也道出了安缦的一点本色。她说：「当初我们建造这些酒店时，安缦的理念不是创造，而是守护。」大研安缦的核心，是一座清代科举考场。位于上海近郊的养云安缦，坐落于从江西迁来的古樟与明清古宅之间，古宅被逐梁拆解，再逐一复原。法云安缦隐于杭州群山之间，所在之处曾是一座茶村。傍晚时分，养云安缦总经理 Albert 「你会 Servalls 喜欢走到千年樟树王下。他说：感知到某种力量，某种灵韵。」天与地，石与木，于安缦皆为寻常。真正重要的，是栖居于天地之间的那份生机。本月，TK 推出访谈系列 The Salon Series，与各界文化领袖对话，内容将刊登于本刊，并在各大视频及播客平台同步推出。本期率先登场的是文华东方。文华东方酒店集团首席执行官 Laurent Kleitman 告诉我，他们只出售时间与情感。他说：「在这个世界上，人们最稀缺的资源便是时间。」首席品牌与营销官 Alex Schellenberger 加入后不久，便受命为品牌焕新形象。他引入了全新的品牌字标，同时维持了「扇子」标志的原貌。如今集团正大举扩张，他谈到如何在品牌成长的同时，不失去它的灵魂。本期其余的篇章，将那只碗盛满，将那盏杯斟满：从首尔到吉隆坡的厨房，到香港与澳门的餐桌，再到亚洲最好的酒吧。剩下的那个张着嘴的小人像，大概就是我们了。请享受悦读时光。

MARK HAMMONS

Founder and Publisher

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CONTENTS

8 Tea for Today • 10 Unrepeatable Presentness • 12 A Vessel for Dining • 16 Where Everything Belonged 54 Precious Things • 60 The Luxury of Place • 96 Full-Circle Moment • 102 Timeless Allure 108 Inspired Instinct • 110 Two Delicious Decades • 112 Sea and Sparkle • 118 Leading Lights of the List

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CONTENTS

64 Culinary Bridges • 116 A Sense of Belonging • 130 Peer Power • 132 Color First 140 Flipping the Script • 146 Pouring Hong Kong • 148 Beyond the Toast • 150 Very Gehry 152 Selling Time • 16o The Guardian • 168 Savoring the City • 172 Barefoot Luxury

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INSPIRED LIVING

云起茶间

tea for today Shang Xia’s Cloud Collection translates the structure and symbolism of traditional Chinese architecture into contemporary tea ware.

“TASTES HAVE S H I F TED a lot over the last decade,” says Hao Li, a

「过去十年，人们的品味改变了许多。」「上下」

资深设计师李浩在谈及现代茶文化时说道。 senior designer at Shang Xia, referring to modern tea culture. “More and 「越来越多人倾心于轻盈、简约并且与当下审 more people are drawn to something light, simple, and in tune with how 美相契合的事物。」这个获爱马仕支持的中国 things look today.” The Hermès-backed Chinese brand, founded in 2010 品牌由设计师蒋琼耳于 2010 年创立，近日推 by designer Jiang Qiong’er, has released a tea set designed for everyday 出一套植根于中国建筑、专为日常饮茶而设 tea drinking that is rooted in Chinese architecture. The collection, includ计的茶具。 ing a teapot, tea canister, pastry plates, and tea warmer, is 该系列包括茶壶、茶叶罐、 made of porcelain and woven bamboo, and the tray that BY 点心盘与温茶炉，以瓷器与竹丝制 holds it is crafted from black walnut and bamboo. “It’s made KATE NICHOLSON 成，用于摆放整套茶具的托盘则 for people who love Eastern aesthetics and drink tea – con由黑胡桃木与竹材打造。 temporary tea drinkers, not just collectors,” says Li, who envisions the 李浩说：「它是为热爱东方美学、日常饮 set being used more for afternoon tea than for a formal ceremony. 茶的人而创作 —— 是当代的茶客，而不只是 Shang Xia is bringing classical architectural thinking into its 2026 收藏家。」在他的设想里，这套茶具更适合午 releases, and the Cloud Collection is no exception. While studying tra后闲茶，而非正式茶仪。 ditional building methods, Li became interested in column-and-base 「上下」正将古典建筑思维带入 2026 年 structural design in which a pillar meets its foundation beneath the 的新作，云起系列正是其一。在研究传统营 eaves. “There’s a nice idea built into it,” he says. “It carries what’s above 造方法时，李浩对「柱与础」的结构设计产生 and supports what’s below. We took that structure, along with the aus兴趣 —— 那是屋檐之下，立柱与基座相接的 picious cloud patterns you often see carved on column bases, and made 方式。他表示：「这里面藏着一个很好的理念， these the starting point of the Cloud Collection.” 它承托其上，也支撑其下。我们取用这一结构， To transfer the visual language of classical Chinese columns onto

The cloud-shaped ruyi finial on the lid of this Cloud Collection vessel is carved by hand. 云起系列器皿盖上的如意云头盖钮，由手工雕刻而成。

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COURTESY SHANG XIA (2)

tea ware, the designer divided the teapot into three parts. The elongated, slightly angled neck of the vessel references a column with the eaves and foundation framing the column above and below. The column is the part of the teapot that holds everything together, notes Li, “so that’s where the bamboo strands sit, wrapped tight.” In the case of the cups, the columnar foundation carries the cup and the tea poured into it, so the foundation is adorned with bamboo in “a quiet nod back to the ‘clouds rising’ idea,” says Li. “That’s the logic behind every placement.” Artisan detailing is everywhere in this set. The cloud-shaped ruyi lid finial is carved by hand, and the woven bamboo details require masterly skill to craft. Shang Xia has long incorporated woven bamboo into its products, including the Bridge Collection porcelain tea set, released over a decade ago, for which craftsmen use knives to cut the bamboo strips and a double-strand cross-weave to bind them to the teapot or cup. The Cloud Collection steps the craftsmanship up a notch by featuring woven bamboo cloud patterns on a curved teapot. “We had to keep the balance between solidity and emptiness,” says Li. “The body shouldn’t be smothered in bamboo. The weave needs to read as clouds and flowing water. It’s demanding on the development side, and even more demanding in the hands of the artisans.”

以及常被雕刻在柱础上的祥云纹样，作为云起系列的起点。」为了将中国古典立柱的视觉语言转译到茶器之上，设计师将茶壶分为三部分。壶身修长、略带角度的颈部，呼应立柱；而屋檐与基座则在其上下，框定柱身。李浩指出，柱是茶壶中凝聚整体的所在。他解释：「所以竹丝缠绕于此，束得紧实。」至于茶杯，柱基承载杯身与注入其中的茶汤，因此基座以竹编加饰，「像是对『云起』之意的轻声回应。每一次竹编的落位，背后都有这样的逻辑。」这套茶具处处可见匠心细节。如意云头盖钮由手工雕刻而成，竹丝细节则需精湛技艺方能完成。「上下」向来将竹编融入产品，包括十多年前问世的「桥」系列瓷质茶具 —— 工匠以刀剖竹，再以双股交叉编织法将竹丝缚于壶身或杯身。云起系列则更进一步，在弧形茶壶上呈现云纹竹丝。李浩说：「我们必须在坚实与空灵之间保持平衡，壶身不应被竹丝完全覆盖。纹样需要读出云与流水的意象。这对研发要求极高，到了匠人手中，要求更高。」

The Cloud Collection porcelain teapot and cups feature bamboo woven by expert craftsmen. 云起系列瓷质茶壶与茶杯，饰以能工巧匠编织的竹丝。 between sky and earth | TK | 9

落墨成书

unrepeatable presentness Artist Wang Shaoqiang draws on the work of Chinese masters, ancient philosophy, and cross-cultural research to take writing with ink beyond calligraphy.

Wang Shaoqiang, Conditioned Dharma, 2026, ink on paper, 37.5×40 cm 王紹強，《缘法》，2026年，纸本水墨，37.5×40厘米

艺术家王绍强在艺术生涯的早期潜心研习颜真卿、米芾、王羲之等古代书法大家的笔法。如今，尽管他的「书写创作计划」实践依然植根于这些传统，但他更倾向于将自己的创作称为「书写创作计划」。正如他所言：「将作品视为『书写』而非『书法』，意味着创作重心从技艺展现转向思想介入，从形式探索转向跨文 I N H I S E AR LY Y E AR S A S AN AR T I S T, Wang Shaoqiang immersed him-

化阐释。」

王绍强的创作灵感既源自《易经》 self in the brushwork of ancient calligraphy masters like Yan Zhenqing, Mi 《庄子》等经典，也汲取了其他文化传统 Fu, and Wang Xizhi. Today, Wang’s contemporary shuxie still draws on this 的养分。这些文献为他提供了指引，但 foundation, but the artist prefers to call what he puts to paper “writing.” As 书写行为本身却充满不可预知性：「理 he explains, “To view works as writing rather than calligraphy means that the 性的研究为书写确立了方向与语境，而 center of gravity shifts from technical display to intellectual intervention, and 身体的即时抉择则赋予了书 from formal exploration to cross-cultural interpretation.” 写不可复制的『当下性』。」 Wang draws inspiration from texts like the I Ching and BY KATE NICHOLSON 北京墨斋的个展「厚土 Zhuangzi as well as from those of other civilizational traditions. 流光：王绍强的行察与通变」中有两件 And while the literature guides his practice, the act of writing itself is unpre作品生动地诠释了他的创作理念。创作 dictable: “Rational research provides direction and context for writing, while 于 2024 年的《动静》以中国经典中的 bodily decision gives writing its unrepeatable presentness.” 动静观为线索。王绍强指出：「作为一 Two works from the artist’s solo exhibition at INK studio in Beijing, Thick

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种具身实践，书写恰恰存在于这种动静交织的状态之中。当笔触落在纸张的瞬间，既是身体动作的抉择，也是思想的积淀与表现。」创作于 2026 年的小幅作品《缘法》则进一步打破动静观的二元对立。王绍强说道：「每一处留白都承载着更重的结构功能，而每一道笔触都令人无法忽视。」这位艺术家日益将书写视为一种全球性的阐释实践：「它构成了一种『相遇的媒介』，让不同的文化与思想传统得以在此相遇、转化并展开对话。」

COURTESY THE ARTIST AND INKSTUDIO (2)

Earth, Fluent Light: Wang Shaoqiang’s Investigations and Transfigurations , illuminate his approach. Movement-Stillness , created in 2024, takes the Chinese philosophical concept of “stillness within motion, motion within stillness” as a framework, because, as Wang notes, “Writing as an embodied practice exists precisely in this interwoven state of motion and stillness. The moment the brush touches paper is both a bodily decision and the sedimentation of prior research and thought.” Conditioned Dharma , a smaller work from 2026, makes this false dichotomy apparent. “Every blank area,” says Wang, “bears a heavier structural function, and every brush trace can hardly be overlooked.” Increasingly, the artist views writing as a global hermeneutic practice: “It constitutes a medium through which different cultures and intellectual traditions can meet, translate, and enter into dialogue.”

ART

Wang Shaoqiang, Movement-Stillness, 2024, ink on paper, 70×62 cm 王紹強，《动静》，2024年，纸本水墨，70×62厘米

BETWEEN SKY AND EARTH | TK |

RESTAURANT DESIGN

盛食之器载艺之庭

a vessel for dining 若有人曾好奇，置身于曲线优美的瓷瓶 T H O S E W H O’ V E E V E R WO N D E R E D what it might 或工艺精湛的瓷碗内部会是怎样的体 be like to tour the curvaceous interior of a china vase or 验，不妨造访位于上环乐古道的「TATE impeccably finished porcelain bowl should pay a visit to 態邸」。TATE 由香港主厨兼餐厅主理人 TATE on Lok Ku Road in Sheung Wan. As the latest embodi刘韵棋（Vicky Lau）创立。作为这一理 ment of the TATE concept, founded by Hong Kong chef念的最新呈现，它从精美瓷器中汲取视 proprietor Vicky Lau, it takes visual inspiration from fine 觉灵感。这并不令人意外， china. This is unsurprising, given Lau’s longBY 因为刘韵棋对陶瓷的热爱由 standing passion for ceramics. Her high school KATE NICHOLSON 来已久。刘韵棋对精湛工艺、 hobby was pottery-making, and she’s never 自然时令及考究细节的极致 lost her love for the craft. Lau’s deep respect 追求，不仅体现在她的佳肴之中，更在 for craftsmanship, natural seasonality, and the luxury of 这处优雅的新空间里展现得淋漓尽致。 intentional detail that comes through in what she puts on 刘韵棋说：「TATE 能够走过十四 the table is equally on display in this elegant new space. 载，全赖我们对细节的执着追求与持续 “What has sustained TATE over the past fourteen 不断的演进。宾客之所以愿意重访，正 years is a relentless dedication to detail and continuous 是因为他们能感受到我们源源不断的创 evolution,” says Lau. “Our guests return because they 意。展望未来，我们将重心转向『低调 can feel the constant creativity. As we look forward, our 奢华』与『深厚艺术内涵』的理念，以 focus is shifting toward a philosophy of quiet luxury and 回应当前全球精致餐饮界日益单调、千 deep artistry to counter a global fine-dining scene that 篇一律的现状。」这家米其林二星餐厅 has become increasingly monotonous and cookie-cutter.” 不随波逐流的姿态，在其室内设计中清 Her trend-bucking is evident in the two-Michelin-starred 晰可见。这也是活跃于纽约与上海的设 restaurant’s interiors, the first such project in Hong Kong 计师邵程在香港的首个此类项目，由他 from New York and Shanghai-based designer Chris Shao, 与刘韵棋密切合作完成。 who carried it out in close partnership with Lau.

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COURTESY OF TATE

Designer Chris Shao and Chef Vicky Lau collaborate to bring the language of ceramics into TATE’s new home.

The floor of the main dining room in TATE features porcelain motifs. TATE 主餐厅的地面装饰有瓷器风格的图案。

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RESTAURANT DESIGN

刘韵棋毕业于蓝带厨艺学院，其职业生涯早期便以运用经典法式烹饪技艺演绎中菜而闻名。正如她的料理一样，TATE 的设计风格表面上带有西方精致餐饮风格，细节之中则蕴含着香港风味与广博中华文化的独特意蕴。刘韵棋和邵程共同重新诠释了中国的陶瓷传统。邵程说道：「我们的初衷是将陶瓷的特质融入建筑与家具，让这些文化意象在空间中逐渐浮现，而非直白地显露出来。」从墙面、灯具到家具，乃至餐桌之上，处处可见对陶瓷文化的致意。「室内空间化作承载用餐体验的容器，烘托出宾客抵达、欢聚、菜式呈现及交谈之间的起承转合。」「TATE 态邸」横跨两层，设有可容纳二十二人的主用餐区以及一间可供最多十人聚会的私人包间。空间内的家具均为特别定制，以源自陶瓷器皿的柔和曲线为轮廓。邵程亲自设计了嵌入餐桌的服务台，他表示：「这些造型既温润亲和，又经过精密比例考量，兼顾舒适度与服务需求。我们从设计之初便将员工的动线纳入考量，因为服务是餐饮体验的核心。家具的设计不仅着眼于视觉美感与宾客舒适度，也为上菜与互动的编排而设。」例如，茶会在桌边冲泡，并与餐厅拥有一千二百瓶藏酒的酒窖所呈献的葡萄酒一样，受到同等尊重。「TATE 态邸」所使用的陶瓷器皿出自二十多位陶艺家之手。主用餐区的墙面上悬挂着形态蜿蜒的手工陶瓷灯具，柔和而精准的光影投射其间，宛如鲜活灵动的植物素描。餐具制作融入了来自香港新界流浮山的陶土以及本地墨鱼骨。就连地面铺设的抽象图案也呼应了陶瓷工艺的传统美学。邵程表示：「刘韵棋兼具厨师与陶艺家的双重身份，让我们的合作碰撞出格外丰富的火花。我们的交流将设计从『美观的餐厅』推向营造一个更完整的环境 —— 这就是映照出她烹饪艺术中那份用心、叙事感与精准度的空间。」

Sinuous metal wall lighting resembles botanical illustrations.

The understated exterior of TATE in Sheung Wan.

蜿蜒流畅的金属壁灯，造型宛如植物素描。

TATE位于上环，外观低调内敛。

Ceramic creations from more than twenty producers adorn the shelves, the tables, and the walls of TATE.

The bespoke furniture’s gently curving forms recall ceramic vessels.

来自二十多位陶艺家的陶瓷作品点缀着 TATE 的层架、餐桌与墙面。

定制家具柔和的曲线造型，令人联想到陶瓷器皿。

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COURTESY OF TATE (4)

Since early in her career, the Le Cordon Bleu-trained Lau has been renowned for interpreting Chinese cuisine through the lens of classic French technique. And like her food, TATE’s design superficially resembles Western fine-dining style. The details, however, reveal unmistakable allusions to the flavors of Hong Kong and to wider Chinese culture. Both Lau and Shao have reimagined Chinese ceramic traditions: “The intention was to abstract the qualities of ceramics into architecture and furniture,” notes Shao, “allowing the references to emerge gradually rather than announce themselves immediately.” Nods to this material culture can be found everywhere, from the walls to the lighting fixtures to the furniture. And, of course, on the table. “The interior becomes a vessel for the dining experience, a place that supports the rhythm of arrival, gathering, presentation, and conversation.” This latest iteration of TATE , covering two floors, has a twentytwo-seat main room and a private dining room hosting gatherings of up to ten. The furniture, custom-designed for the space, features soft curving profiles drawn from ceramic ware. “The forms feel gentle and inviting, but they’re carefully proportioned to support comfort and service,” says Shao, who designed serving stations slotted into the tables. “We considered the movement of the staff from the beginning, because service is a central part of the dining experience. The furniture was developed not only for visual character and guest comfort but also for the choreography of presentation and interaction.” Tea, for example, is brewed tableside and is paired with as much respect as are the wines from the restaurant’s twelve-hundred-bottle cellar. More than twenty makers are behind TATE ’s ceramic appointments. The walls of the main dining room are softly yet precisely lit with sinuous handcrafted ceramic light fixtures that are like botanical drawings come to life. The tableware incorporates local cuttlefish bone and clay from Lau Fau Shan, a fishing village in Hong Kong’s New Territories. Even the floor references ceramic traditions in its abstract pattern. “Chef Vicky’s background as both a chef and a ceramic artist made the collaboration especially rich,” says Shao. “Our conversations pushed the design beyond the idea of a beautiful dining room and toward a more complete environment – one that reflects the same care, storytelling, and precision found in her cuisine.”

COVER STORY

He Yaowei had written our name in pictures. On a sheet of handmade Dongba paper were a line for the sky, a line for the earth, and, between them, a bowl, a cup, and a small f igure with its mouth open. A colleague from Amandayan helped us read it: everything under the sky and on the earth; food and drink; a person tasting: “The whole meaning is Tasting Kitchen.”

BY MARK HAMMONS

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

和耀伟用画笔写下了我们的名字。他在一张东巴手工纸上，勾勒出一道代表天的线，一道代表地的线，天地之间，是一只碗、一只杯，和一个张着嘴的小人像。大研安缦的一位同事帮我们解读其中的意思：天空之下，大地之上；食与饮；一位正在品尝的食客 —— 整体意思正是 Tasting Kitchen。

Dayan Old Town 大研古城

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WHERE EVERYtHING BELONGED At Aman’s three resorts in China, the focus is on what to preserve and protect.

COVER STORY

e Yaowei is a Dongba, a Naxi sage, and at A m a nd aya n he t e a che s g ue s t s t he f i r s t characters of a script he learned beside his grandfather, the pictographs for a person, the sky, and the earth.

We met him in March, on a visit to all three of Aman’s

retreats in China.

Amandayan sits above the old town of Lijiang. Amanyang-

yun, on the outskirts of Shanghai, was built around ancient houses and camphor trees brought from Jiangxi. Amanfayun occupies a former tea village set beside a winding path in the hills of Hangzhou.

和耀伟是一位东巴，纳西族的智者。他在大研安缦教客人书写他从小随祖父习得的那种文字的最初几个字符 —— 人、天、地的象形字。我们在三月走访安缦位于中国三家度假酒店时，遇见和耀伟。大研安缦高踞丽江古城之上。养云安缦坐落于上海近郊，以从江西迁来的古宅与古樟构建空间。法云安缦则隐在杭州群山间一条蜿蜒小径旁，所在之处曾是一座茶村。

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He Yaowei is a seventh-generation Dongba, a Naxi sage. 和耀伟，第七代东巴，纳西族的智者。

COVER STORY

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AMANDAYAN LIJIANG 大研安缦丽江

Tai chi morning exercise in Wenchang Palace 在文昌宫的太极晨练 BETWEEN SKY AND EARTH | TK |

COVER STORY

“F

ROM TH E DAY I WAS BOR N I absorbed it beside my grandfather,” He Yaowei told us. “I began systematic study at seven. At nine I was conducting ceremonies myself and writing the scriptures.” He can trace seven generations of Dongba in his family; the genealogy before that, he said, had been lost to history. The rites are traditionally the hardest part of a Dongba education, and he is now passing them on to his own son who is thirteen. “Writing the characters doesn’t mean knowing how to use them,” he said. “Plenty of people can draw at least some of them, but there are only a little over three hundred people who can use the Dongba script, like me, systematically. Mastering the script and being able to read a few books doesn’t necessarily make you a Dongba. A Dongba must know how to perform the rituals, at weddings, funerals, and festivals.”

和耀伟告诉我们：「从我出生那天起，就在祖父身边耳濡目染。我七岁开始系统学习东巴文化。九岁时，我已经能独立主持仪轨、书写东巴经文。」他的家族可以回溯出七代东巴传承人，更早的谱系记载，已经失传于历史。仪轨传统上是东巴修习中最艰深的一部分，如今，他正把整套体系传给十三岁的儿子。他说：「会写东巴文字，不代表会使用它们。很多人至少能描摹出一些字形，但能像我这样系统运用东巴文的，只有三百多人。掌握文字、能读几本书，不一定就能成为东巴。东巴必须懂得如何在婚礼、葬礼和节庆中举行仪式。」

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Dongba script calligraphy

Yunnan wamao clay sculpting experience

东巴书法

大研安缦 – 云南瓦猫泥塑体验

General manager Marvel Wu has worked to bring encounters like these into the hotel since arriving in 2019, when, as she put it, “there were almost no experiences.” She insists on bringing in Dongba practitioners to teach their own traditions. “To keep it authentic, we cannot do it ourselves,” she said. “Only a Dongba can do Dongba practices.” “When we built these resorts, Aman’s concept was not to create but to protect,” she said. “It means we grow from there, instead of build.” She encourages guests to explore beyond the hotel, and even has a formula that she shares. “Go to the old town three times during the same day: once before nine in the morning, once in the afternoon, and once at night. You will feel like you visited three totally different cities.” A centerpiece of the resort is Wenchang Palace, a Qing-dynasty examination hall still owned by the government. It hosts lessons and New Year blessings, and Wu regards its regular use as essential to its survival. “Especially with a wooden structure, if you don’t use it, it will fall into disrepair. The best way to protect the building is to use it.” Wenchang Palace is also where the tai chi master teaches a few mornings a week. When asked about the benefits of regular practice, the master says that tai chi will calm the nerves: “If you are impatient and quick-tempered, after three to five years of practice your temperament slows down. There’s a saying that the impatient can’t eat hot tofu. Once you learn to stop rushing, you can eat the hot tofu.”

总经理吴富香女士自 2019 年到任以来，一直致力把这类原生体验带进酒店。用她的话说，那时「几乎没有什么体验项目」。她坚持邀请东巴传承人来向住客讲他们自己的传统习俗。她表示：「为了保持体验的本真，我们不能代劳，只有真正的东巴，才能做东巴的事。」「当初我们建造这些酒店时，安缦的理念不是创造，而是守护。这意味着我们是在原有根基生长，而不是凭空建造。」她鼓励住客走出酒店探索丽江，甚至有一套分享给客人的探索公式。「同一天去古城逛三次：早上九点前一次，下午一次，夜里一次。你会感觉自己去了三座截然不同的城市。」酒店的其中一处核心是文昌宫，这座清代科举考场至今仍归政府所有。这里定期开设课程，并举办新年祈福。吴富香认为让建筑持续被使用是它得以长久留存的关键。「尤其是这种木结构的建筑，如果空置不用，就会败落。保护一座建筑最好的方式就是使用它。」文昌宫也是太极师傅每周固定早晨授课的地方。被问及长期习练的益处时，师傅说太极能让人静下来：「如果你急躁、脾气快，练上三五年，性情就会慢下来。有句老话叫心急吃 b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 23

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“Spring in Wenchang,” an Amandayan Tea House Bistro cocktail

Yilia Chen, bartender at Amandayan Tea House Bistro

大研安缦茶舍Bistro鸡尾酒 – 文昌揽春

大研安缦茶舍Bistro调酒师陈璇

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Naxi traditional culture performances take place every Wednesday and Saturday.

Herbal sachet making, an Amandayan in-house activity 大研安缦的药草香囊制作体验

每周三、周六的纳西传统文化表演

At Man Yi Xuan, the Chinese restaurant, hot pot is served in black clay vessels made in Nixi, near Shangri-La. Jessica Liu, Amandayan’s food and beverage director, says that she needs to explain to some guests why a pot filled with local ingredients, with no exotic seafood, can still command a premium price. The hot pot looks simple, she said, but it isn’t. “Chefs need to prepare four hours in advance. They use the charcoal to cook, to simmer, and then keep slow boiling over three hours.” The cooks prepare the vegetables and mushrooms, and give the meat its own attention. Yak is worked with ginger and scallion water before being cubed and marinated. Preserved pork ribs, used in other versions of the hot pot, come from a single farmer and cure for six to eight months. “If you cannot balance the taste with salt, it becomes too salty. If it’s preserved too long, it becomes very dry.” Guests sometimes want to order the dish on the spot. “We have to say no.” Experienced visitors plan their trip around it. “There are guests who fly in from Chengdu, from Beijing, to stay here one night just to have the hot pot.”

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不了热豆腐。等你学会了不再急，就能吃上热豆腐了。」在中餐厅缦逸轩，火锅盛在产自香格里拉附近尼西的黑陶器皿中。大研安缦餐饮总监 Jessica

Liu 告诉我们，有些客人会好奇为什么一锅装满本地食材、没有珍奇海鲜的火锅，可以卖出不菲的价格。这锅火锅看起来简单，其实暗藏门道。Jessica 解释：「厨师需要提前四小时准备。他们用木炭加热、慢炖，再保持微沸三个多小时。」厨师们逐一准备蔬菜和菌菇，肉类也要单独处理。牦牛肉先用姜葱水浸味，再切块腌制。另一种火锅中使用的腊排骨来自一位固定农户，要腌制六到八个月。「盐度平衡不好，就会太咸。腌制时间把控不当，又会变得很干。」客人有时想临时点这道火锅。「我们只能婉拒。」有经验的客人会特意围绕它来安排行程。「有客人从成都、北京飞来，只为了在这里住一晚，吃上这锅火锅。」

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A curated array of Yunnan’s unique produce and medicinal botanicals 丽江本地忠义市场中独特的云南食材和药材

BETWEEN SKY AND EARTH | TK |

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Amandayan General Manager Marvel Wu

“Taste of Flowers and Vegetables” is Man Yi Xuan Chinese restaurant’s spring menu.

大研安缦总经理吴富香女士

缦逸轩中餐厅春季菜单「鲜花野菜入馔」

Liu was quick to correct any misunderstanding about her own role. “I don’t cook. But I enjoy very much arranging a showcase of the dishes.” For a picture of a new spring dish, kapok blossom with preserved pork, TK Director of Photography David Hartung wanted a Lijiang roof as a background, and she produced fifty gray tiles from the engineering storeroom, cleaned by her colleagues the night before and laid across the table. “It’s very typical in Lijiang. All the roofs are the same.” The house pork belly has been on the menu since the hotel opened. Liu told us about a party of twelve who originally requested just one portion – she persuaded them to begin with two. After finishing, they asked for five more. The bistro team, meanwhile, had been testing cocktails with local fish-mint root, Yunnan tea, and wild mushrooms. “We got drunk every day trying to find a good cocktail,” she said. “That’s true.”

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Jessica 很快纠正了大家对于她自身角色的误解。「我不下厨，但我很享受安排和展示一桌特色菜品。」拍摄攀枝花配腊肉这道春季新菜时，TK 摄影总监 David Hartung 希望以丽江屋顶为背景，她从工程储物间里找出五十块灰瓦，由同事在前一晚清洗干净，铺在桌上。「这是丽江典型的景致。这里的所有屋顶，都是这种灰瓦。」从酒店开业起，招牌普洱香脆猪腩肉就一直在菜单上。Jessica 告诉我们，曾有一行十二位客人原本只点了一份，她说服他们先点两份。吃完后，他们又追加了五份。与此同时，茶舍

Bistro 团队一直在尝试用本地鱼腥草根、云南茶叶和野生菌调试鸡尾酒。她笑说：「我们每天喝醉，只为找到一款好鸡尾酒。这是真的。」

COVER STORY

养云安缦上海

AMANYANGYUN SHANGHAI 32 | T K | B E T W E E N S K Y A N D E A R T H

Tai chi under the King Camphor Tree at Amanyangyun 千年树王下的太极练习 BETWEEN SKY AND EARTH | TK |

COVER STORY

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A serene path borders the SPA & Wellness Centre.

Lake meets lawn under azure skies.

养云安缦水疗中心小径

湛蓝天空下的湖边草坪

L B E R T S E R V A L L S came to China from Barcelona in 2003, as a chef. He married in China, and his daughter was born here. “After twenty-two years, I feel Shanghai is also part of my home.” Yet ten months into his job as general manager of Amanyangyun, he was still finding things that surprised him. “You see the Qing and Ming dynasty villas, and you enter, and you smell that wood, the special wood they are built with,” he said. “You have a real feeling of peace.” “That’s the feeling I have every morning when I’m walking here, a feeling I never would have expected working in other hotels.” He has worked for luxury international hotel brands. “Sometimes I feel that I don’t even want to get angry when I’m here.” In the evenings he likes to walk out to the King Camphor Tree. “I don’t know how to describe it. You feel something is there, some spirit.” Those trees once grew seven hundred kilometers away, in Fuzhou, Jiangxi. A film shown at Amanyangyun traces their journey back to 2002, when a Fuzhou-born entrepreneur returned to his home region to find ancient camphors being felled ahead of a reservoir project. He decided to move them to Shanghai, along with Mingand Qing-dynasty houses that were dismantled and reassembled,

Albert Servalls 于 2003 年以厨师的身份，从巴塞罗那来到中国。他在中国成家，女儿也在这里出生。「二十二年过去，我已经把上海当成自己的另一个家。」然而，出任养云安缦总经理十个月后，依然常有新发现让他惊喜。他说：「你走进那些明清古宅，就能闻到古木的香气，那是建造它们所用的特殊木材。你会感到一种真正的宁静。」「我每天早上在这里散步时，都有这种感受。我在其他酒店工作时，从未体会过这种心境。」他曾经任职于多个国际高端酒店集团。「有时我觉得，在这里我甚至不想生气。」他喜欢在傍晚走到香樟树下。「我不知道该怎么形容。但你会感知到某种力量，某种灵韵。」那些古樟原本生长在七百公里之外的江西抚州。在养云安缦放映的一部影片记录了它们的迁徙轨迹：2002 年，一位来自抚州的企业家回到家乡，发现大批古樟树因水库工程即将被砍伐。他决定将它们迁往上海，同时迁移的还有被逐梁拆解、再逐一重组的明清古宅。即使经过修剪，这些樟树仍重达二十至五十吨。古宅经过精细测量，每一个构件都做好编 b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 35

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Elegant lines define Amanyangyun’s contemporary design.

Amanyangyun General Manager Albert Servalls

走廊一角的优雅线条，勾勒出养云安缦的当代设计。

养云安缦总经理Albert Servalls先生

beam by beam. Even after pruning, the trees weighed between twenty and fifty tons. The houses were meticulously measured and every part was numbered; the trees were replanted facing the same direction, in soil brought in from home. By the film’s account, nearly 80 percent of more than ten thousand trees survived across the wider rescue project. Aman joined the project in 2009, and Amanyangyun opened in April 2018. Servalls recalled the brief he received from the owner on his first day: “He told me, ‘This is my life project. This is what I envision and what I want to leave in this world.’” For Chef Fred Shi, the houses and trees helped determine the cuisine that his restaurant Lazhu would cook, which of course would also be from Jiangxi. There was only one complication: Shi had spent his career in Cantonese kitchens. “When we first started developing the restaurant’s menu, I personally didn’t know much about Jiangxi cuisine,” he said. He read old cookbooks, including the eighteenth-century Suiyuan

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号；古樟重新栽种时，也都按照原来的朝向，土壤也从故乡运来。据影片所述，在整个更大范围的古樟拯救项目中，一万多棵树的存活率接近百分之八十。安缦于 2009 年加入该项目，养云安缦最终于 2018 年 4 月正式揭幕。

Albert 回忆起上任第一天从业主那里收到的嘱托：「他告诉我：『这是我倾注一生的项目。这是我理想中的作品，也是我想留在这个世界上的东西。』」对行政总厨施晨荣而言，这些古宅与古樟决定了餐厅「辣竹」的烹饪方向 —— 江西风味。唯一的挑战就是施晨荣此前的职业生涯都是在粤菜厨房中度过。他回忆道：「我们刚开始研发菜单时，我个人对江西菜了解并不多。」他翻阅旧食谱，其中包括十八世纪末袁枚所著的《随园食单》，仔细琢磨江西菜的技法，并与自己的经验相比较。一支由江西本土厨师组成的团队，带来了赣菜小炒与焖烧方面的核心技法。此后，施总厨拓展了食材的使用范围，借助自己的粤菜功底，以江西料理方式烹饪。

Steamed fish head with chili pepper, served with Jiangxi vermicelli 秘制三色蒸鱼头（配米粉）

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Shidan by Yuan Mei, to understand the methods and compare them with his own. A team of Jiangxi cooks brought expertise in the province’s stir-fries and braises. Shi has since widened the ingredients they use, drawing on his Cantonese background while cooking them in a Jiangxi manner. Shi has also been putting more of the hotel’s own vegetables on the table. When we visited, the plot in front of the restaurant held broccoli, spinach, and rapeseed, and whatever is ready to harvest goes out to guests as a complimentary dish. He keeps it off the printed menu, since he can’t promise the same vegetables every day. “Jiangxi food is salty, savory, aromatic, and spicy,” he said. “We use almost no sugar. The heat is different from Hunan and Sichuan. When you take your first mouthful, your taste buds get a very strong heat, but also a lot of freshness.” When I asked him to choose one dish to represent the restaurant, he chose Yugan chili stir-fried pork. “The chilies are from Yugan County in Shangrao, Jiangxi. They differ from varieties grown locally in Shanghai: the skin is thin, the flesh crisp, the aftertaste slightly sweet, and they aren’t very large.” “Almost every table orders it,” he said. “It isn’t easy to make something well that is so widely available.” We had ordered it at lunch, I told him. Twice. Shi opened Lazhu in 2018, left after three years for a hiatus in Beijing, and then returned in 2025 to find diners he remembered from his first stint. “Amanyangyun’s location is unlike the Bund, with its tourists and foot traffic,” he said. “Guests here remember the dishes they like, and old friends reserve certain dishes before they come. Good taste is what counts. “Many regular Aman guests feel they are coming home.”

Western Executive Chef Oscar Zhang inspects the organic garden. 养云安缦西餐行政总厨张顺在生态菜园。

他也把越来越多酒店自种的蔬菜端上餐桌。我们到访时，餐厅前的菜地里种着西兰花、菠菜和油菜，任何成熟的收成都作为赠菜送到客人桌上。他没有把这些菜印在菜单上，因为他无法保证每天都有同样的蔬菜。施总厨说：「江西菜咸、香、鲜、辣，我们几乎不放糖。它的辣与湖南、四川的辣味不同。第一口下去，味蕾会感到很强劲的辣，但同时也有浓郁的鲜香。」当我请他选一道代表餐厅的菜时，他选了余干辣椒炒肉。「这些辣椒来自江西上饶余干县，和上海本地种植的品种不同：它的皮薄、肉脆、回口微甜，个头也不大。」他表示：「几乎每桌客人都会点这道菜。把一道随处可见的菜式做好，并不容易。」我告诉他，我们午餐时点了这道菜，连着吃了两轮。施总厨于 2018 年开设辣竹，三年后离开，在北京休整。他 2025 年回来时，还碰到了不少在第一任期结识的食客。他说道：「养云安缦的位置不像外滩，没有游客和熙攘的人流。来这里的客人记得他们喜欢的菜，老朋友来之前甚至会预留某些菜式。好味道才是关键。」「许多安缦常客，回到这里就像回家。」

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← Stewed diced chicken with bamboo shoots served in a stone pot 鲜笋石锅焖葵花鸡

→ Chinese afternoon tea on the lake 游船中式下午茶

← Stewed beef tripe in spicy chili sauce 临川辣卤烩牛杂

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b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 41

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The Nan Shufang cultural sanctuary 楠书房 b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 43

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AMANFAYUN HANGZHOU 法云安缦杭州

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Xi Lei, a Nepal-certified singing bowl healer, handpan chant instructor, and mindfulness coach 奚蕾 – 尼泊尔认证颂钵疗愈师、手碟唱诵导师、正念呼吸冥想专家 BETWEEN SKY AND EARTH | TK |

COVER STORY

H E T E A B U S H E S at Amanfayun were budding during our visit. They grow beside a former village on the pilgrim route between Lingyin and Faxi temples, in the hills above Hangzhou. For Executive Chef Saint Chen, having Long jing growing nex t door is a considerable advantage when cooking, especially when preparing a Hangzhou shrimp dish named for the region’s tea. “Longjing shrimp is a famous Hangzhou dish that every restaurant serves,” he said. “Why is ours different? First, the tea fields are right next door and we grow our own tea. Second, the shrimp are very small, and our chefs have to peel each one by hand. We buy live shrimp at the market.” Hangzhou diners normally add their own vinegar at the table. Too much can overwhelm the dish; too little can leave it out of balance. Chen turns the vinegar into small pearls. “When you eat them, the acidity balances and removes any fishiness from the shrimp. It tastes fresher in the mouth with the tea’s aroma as well.” He finds other uses for tea in his kitchens, including bringing a touch of bitterness to Western desserts to balance their sweetness. Chen grew up in Nanjing and trained in Western cooking, but a memorable lesson came from a painter whose work hangs at Fayun Place, the hotel’s cultural center. The painter had asked him what vegetarian food should be. “I said it must look beautiful and taste good. He said no: the simpler the better. Just cook it and add a little salt. Appetite and desire are human nature, he said, and making food too beautiful is also a temptation.” Chen adopted the advice for himself and into his conversations with his cooks. He also allows them room to experiment. They taste together, listen to guests, and adjust dishes gradually. “If a dish works, we keep it; if not, we remove it.” Consistency, he says, takes years of the same people working together. He also tells his cooks to

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Feilai Peak rock carvings

Amanfayun Longjing tea plantation

飞来峰造像

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Shaoxing wine-marinated prawns with yellow wine jelly

John Xie, a native of Fayun Ancient Village and a retired employee of Amanfayun

绍兴黄酒醉沼虾

谢俊，法云古村村民，曾任法云安缦酒店员工，现已退休

take their rest. “I want my staff to be happy and to be happy myself,” he said. “I hope everyone can live happily in this world; it is not easy. When the staff are happier and enjoy life more, that is when their food has a soul.” The paintings at Fayun Place hang in a house that John Xie knew long before it became part of Amanfayun. Over black tea in its library, he told us the story of his childhood. “Because of my father’s work, my sister and I lived at our grandmother’s house, in this very house. The room I lived in is still there. Whenever guests come, I tell them: this is where I lived as a child.” He lived there until he was twelve. “In the sixties and seventies, before China opened up, we were quite poor. We only had meat at Spring Festival. We bought meat and cooked a big basin of it, then reheated a little in a pan whenever we wanted a dish.” His childhood games needed little equipment. The children pushed leaf stalks against each other to see whose would break first, and during the

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我们到访法云安缦时，茶树正冒出新芽。这片茶田生长在坐落于杭州群山中的古村边，正好在灵隐寺与法喜寺之间的进香古道上。对行政总厨陈宣而言，隔壁就长着龙井茶，这是烹饪时得天独厚的优势，尤其是在做一道以当地茶叶命名的代表菜品龙井虾仁时。他说：「龙井虾仁是一道著名的杭州菜，每家餐厅都会做。为什么我们的版本与众不同？第一，茶园就在隔壁，我们自己种茶。第二，我们用的虾仁非常小，每一只都得由厨师手工剥壳。我们都是从市场买鲜虾。」杭州本地食客习惯把醋碟放在桌上自行添加。醋加得多了就会盖住虾仁本身的鲜，加少了整道菜的风味又会失衡。陈宣把醋做成小珍珠。「吃的时候，酸度刚好中和了虾仁的腥气，入口更清新，同时还混着茶香。」他也在西餐甜点里用茶，以淡淡的茶苦味平衡甜点的甜腻。陈宣在南京长大，原本受训做西餐，一次在法云舍文化中心看一位常驻画家的画，与画家的对话给他留下了极深的印象。那位画家问他，素食应该是怎样的。「我当时说素食要好看、好吃。他说不对：越简单越好。食材只要做熟，加一点盐就够了。食欲和欲念是人的天性，把食物做得太过花哨，也是一种诱惑。」陈宣接纳了这番忠告，也常把这个理念分享给他的厨师团队。他也给团队留足实验的空间。大家会一起试菜，收集客人的反馈，逐步调整菜式的细节。他表示：「一道菜客人喜欢，就留下；不行，就撤掉。」他认为长期稳定的团队配合，才能打磨出始终如

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The Steam House presents Qiandao Lake fish head hot pot, a specialty of Zhejiang.

Soy-marinated duck air-dries outdoors at the Steam House.

蒸菜馆浙江特色菜——千岛湖鱼头火锅

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晾晒在蒸菜馆户外的杭州特色名吃——酱鸭

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Amanfayun Executive Chef Saint Chen 法云安缦行政总厨陈宣

famous winter snow of 1976 they rode the neighbors’ pigs. “We played with whatever we had.” Xie is the only former villager on the hotel staff, now retired. More than four hundred households lived here, he says, before the government relocated them between 1998 and 2003 to a settlement less than two kilometers downhill. The village had been empty for years when Amanfayun opened in January 2010, its restored houses accommodating forty-six guest rooms. “There are things we can no longer change, so I have to find my place within them,” he said. In the old village, families had space to grow vegetables and keep chickens. “Over there, to grow a single vegetable, you have to buy a flowerpot.” Yet he values working among buildings that still

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一的品质。他也叮嘱厨师们要好好休息。「我希望我的团队快乐，我自己也快乐。我希望每个人都能在这个世界上快乐地生活；这并不容易。当员工更快乐、更享受生活时，他们做的菜才有灵魂。」法云舍里的画作，挂在一座谢俊儿时住过的老房子里，这处建筑远在成为法云安缦的一部分之前，他就十分熟悉了。我们在藏书室中就着红茶闲聊，他向我们讲起自己的童年。「因为我父亲的工作，我和姐姐住在外祖母家，就是这座房子。我以前住过的房间还在。每当有客人来，我都告诉他们：这是我小时候住的地方。」他在那里一直住到十二岁。「上世纪六七十年代，改革开放前，我们相当穷。只有春节才能吃上肉，我们会买肉，煮一大盆，每次想吃时就在锅里热一点点。」他童年的游戏几乎不需要任何道具：孩子们拽着叶柄互相拉扯，看谁的先断；在 1976 年那场著名的冬雪中，他们还骑过邻居家的猪。「我们有什么就玩什么。」谢俊是酒店员工中唯一一位法云古村村民，现已退休。他说，政府于 1998 年至 2003 年间，将四百多户原住民迁往山下不到两公

A seasonal afternoon tea set 季节时令下午茶

look as they did. “These centuries-old buildings let us remember the past as we walk and work here.” Former neighbors bring friends back and point out their old homes. Xie took us down a steep stair to a small room on the lower floor, and we asked him to stand in the middle of it for a photograph. “This room is where I lived as a child,” he said. “What was the layout? The window opened here, in two parts, and wasn’t this large. Two small doors, here. Here, just a bed. This was the floor. And here, the only piece of furniture.” In this room, he could still say where everything belonged.

里的安置地。村子空置多年，直至法云安缦于 2010 年 1 月开业，修复后的房屋被改造成四十六间客房。他表示：「有些过往已经无法改变，所以我只能在当下找到自己的位置。」在古村里，家家户户有空间种菜养鸡。「现在想种一棵菜，就得先买一个花盆。」然而，他仍然珍惜在这些保持旧貌的建筑中工作的机会。「这些数百年历史的建筑，让我们在行走和工作时，都能记得过去的岁月。」从前的邻居还会带朋友回来，指认自己的旧居。谢俊带我们沿一段陡峭台阶走下去，来到下层的一个小房间，我们请他站在房间中央拍一张照片。他说：「这就是我小时候住的房间。当年的布局是怎样的？窗户开在这里，分成两扇，没有现在这么大。这边是两扇小门。里面只有一张床。这是当年的地板。整个房间，只有那一件家具。」直到现在，他仍能说出这个房间里每件旧物的摆放位置。

Tasting Kitchen (TK) stayed at Amandayan, Amanyangyun, and Amanfayun as a guest of Aman.

《TK》应安缦之邀，入住大研安缦、养云安缦与法云安缦。 b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 53

山中珍味

precious things At Banyan Tree Lijiang, Executive Chef Roy Yin brings the seasons of Yunnan to the table.

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RESORT

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「我们以前常开玩笑说，来丽江，除了腊排骨， “ W E U S E D TO J O K E that when you come to Lijiang, apart from 还是腊排骨。」丽江悦榕庄行政总厨 Roy Yin cured pork ribs, there are cured pork ribs.” Roy Yin, executive chef at 正在描述厨房最常听到的抱怨：抵达丽江的客 Banyan Tree Lijiang, is describing the complaint his kitchen hears most 人总觉得没什么可吃。「也许不是野菌季，若 often: guests arriving in Lijiang feel there’s nothing to eat. “Maybe it’s 不在春天，也吃不上野菜和鲜花。但事实并非 not wild mushroom season, and if it’s not spring, they can’t eat the wild 如此。云南很大，西双版纳、昆明、大理，各 greens and the flowers. But actually it’s not like that. Yunnan is a very 有各的时令食材。」 big place. Xishuangbanna, Kunming, Dali, they all have their seasonal Roy 来自武汉，他总说自己是外人 —— 尽 ingredients too.” 管十五年前初访丽江，七年前又回到这里。他 Yin is from Wuhan, and he’s quick to call himself an outsider, though 曾在昆明、腾冲、西双版纳掌勺，之后来到此 he first visited Lijiang fifteen years ago and returned seven years ago. He 地，丽江成了他在云南停驻的第四座城市。 cooked in Kunming, Tengchong, and Xishuangbanna before taking a job 「外人」的身份，塑造了他的烹饪方式。 here, making Lijiang his fourth city in the province. 他说：「非常传统的云南菜重辣重 Being an outsider shapes the way he cooks. “Very traBY 油，很多游客不太容易接受。如果 ditional Yunnan food is heavy on chili and oil, and a lot of MARK HAMMONS 你懂得大多数人的喜好，又能让 visitors don’t find it easy to accept,” he says. “If you know 云南风味在菜中显露出来 —— 也 what most people like, and you let the Yunnan flavor show 许三到五成 —— 那或许不算很传统。但从这 its character in the dish – maybe 30 to 50 percent – it might not be very 道菜里，在酒店用餐的人能认识一点云南的风 traditional. But from that dish, someone eating at this hotel can learn 味，或少数民族的传统。这是我对在这里烹 something about the flavors of Yunnan or the traditions of the minori饪的理解。」 ties. That’s how I understand cooking here.” 丽江海拔超过两千米，我们到访时正值 Lijiang sits at more than two thousand meters, and it was spring 春天，意味着野菜与鲜花正当季。Roy 承诺次 when we visited, which meant wild greens and flowers, which Yin 日午餐让我们一尝。他表示：「我想让大家吃 promised we’d taste at lunch the next day. “I want people to eat what’s 当季的东西。野菌在云南很有名，但只有七月 in season. Wild mushrooms are famous in Yunnan, but you can only 到十月才能吃。若一年到头都能吃得到，你就 eat them from July to October. If you could eat them all year round, you 不会珍惜，它们也就不珍贵了。这正是它们被 wouldn’t treasure them. They wouldn’t be precious. That’s why they’re 称为『山珍』的原因。」他指的是松茸、鸡枞， called shan zhen , treasures of the mountain,” he says, referring to mat以及香格里拉一带的黑松露。「人们种不出来， sutake, jizong , and the black truffles from around Shangri-La. “People 得靠大自然。」 can’t cultivate them. It has to be nature.” 纳西族的传统也贯穿菜单。接待团体时， Naxi traditions run through the menu too. For groups, the kitchen 厨房会呈上「三叠水」—— 纳西族传统上招待 offers san die shui , the three-course banquet the Naxi traditionally 「就是我们最尊贵客人的三道式宴席。Roy 说： served their most honored guests, “what we’d call VIP s,” Yin says. It 说的 VIP。」它先以类似西餐冷盘的菜式开场， begins with something like the cold dishes of a Western meal, moves

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Clay-pot pigeon stuffed with wild mushrooms & Yunnan ham

Roy Yin, Executive chef at Banyan Tree Lijiang

乳鸽吞山珍

丽江悦榕庄行政总厨 Roy Yin

on to hot ones, and finishes with hot pot. In its most traditional form, the servers sing and dance as they carry the dishes to the table. The resort also sets tables outdoors at three dining destinations: the pavilion where we’d taken photographs earlier, the farm we’d just come back from, and outside Bai Yun restaurant, where dinner is huotang , a fire-pit meal. “There’s a hot pot in the middle and something like a barbecue beside it, so you’re eating hot pot and barbecue at the same time,” Yin says. “It’s very, very Yunnan.” At the resort’s farm, Harvest Green, where guests can pick vegetables and fruits for the chef to cook, the food goes Western, built on Yunnan’s seasonal ingredients. Yin recalls an American media group he escorted to the Lijiang market: “They bought a lot of the local cured pork, and I asked, when you get this home, how are you going to eat it? Carbonara! I thought, that’s a really good idea. You can take Yunnan’s own ingredients and make them suit the tastes of friends from all over. Like the carpaccio we put on the menu last month. Everyone thought it was imported meat. It’s actually Shangri-La yak.” Yin’s own idea of a good day in Lijiang has little to do with sightseeing. “What I like is the slow pace and the climate. Get up in the morning, find a coffee shop, sit with a few friends, order a coffee or a

pu’er, find somewhere with a beautiful view, and think about nothing at all. There’s no need to rush around – I have to see this place, I have to see that place, taking photos the whole time.” The weather was poor during our visit, and Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, which the resort was built to face, never appeared. “It’s not that you come to Yunnan just to look at the mountains, the water, and the clouds,” says Yin. “It actually has a lot of good food.”

继而上热菜，最后以火锅收尾。在最传统的形式里，侍者上菜时会边唱边舞。度假村亦在三处用餐地设置户外餐桌：我们先前拍照的亭阁、刚造访回来的农场，以及白云中餐厅外。在白云中餐厅，晚餐是「火塘」形式的火坑之宴。Roy 介绍：「中间一个火锅，旁边像烧烤，所以你能同时吃火锅和烧烤。这非常、非常云南。」在度假村的云上农场，住客可采摘蔬果并交由厨师烹调，那里的菜式则偏向西式，以云南时令食材为基底。

Roy 回想起曾陪同一批美国媒体逛丽江集市：「他们买了很多腊排骨，我问，带回去怎么吃？卡邦尼意面！我想，这真是个好主意。你可以用云南的食材做出适合各地朋友口味的东西。就像我们上个月放进菜单的意式生牛肉薄片，大家都以为是进口肉，其实是香格里拉的牦牛。」

Roy 心中丽江美好的一天，与观光无甚关系。「我喜欢的是慢节奏和气候。早上起来，找间咖啡馆，和几个朋友一起坐坐，点杯咖啡或普洱，找个风景好的地方放空。不必东奔西跑 —— 我得看这儿，我得看那儿，一路拍个不停。」度假村本为面朝玉龙雪山而建，我们到访时天气不佳，雪山始终未有露面。Roy 说道：「来云南不是只为了看山、看水、看云，这里其实有很多美食。」

Tasting Kitchen (TK) stayed at Banyan Tree Lijiang as a guest of the resort.

TK 应丽江悦榕庄之邀入住体验。 b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 59

苍洱之间

the luxury of place With its elegantly understated interiors, The Dali EDITION showcases a historic city of scenic and cultural treasures through landscape and way of life.

RESORT

The Amphitheatre is viewed from the window of MARKET at EDITION, the hotel’s all-day dining restaurant.

COURTESY OF THE DALI EDITION (2)

岚·全日餐厅窗外就是露天剧场。

越来越多国际奢华品牌开始寻找新的目的 A S I N T E R N AT I O N A L LU X U R Y B R A N D S increasingly seek out new 地，相比都市天际线，云南大理拥有的是 destinations, Dali in China’s Yunnan province offers not a towering urban 苍山、洱海，以及一种缓慢却持续生长的 skyline but the majestic Cangshan Mountain range, ethereal Erhai Lake, 生活方式。在庆祝品牌进入大中华区十周 and a slower-paced way of life whose charm grows with quiet persistence. 年的里程碑时刻，艾迪逊酒店选择把中国 Marking EDITION Hotels’ ten-year milestone in Greater China, the 第三家酒店落在这里，也让这 opening of its third China property in Dali carries significance 次开业有了品牌布局之外的另 BY beyond strategic portfolio expansion. As a key luxury brand 一层意义。作为万豪国际集团 REGINA ZHUOQING LI within Luxury Group by Marriott International, EDITION is 奢华品牌的重要成员，艾迪逊 now beginning to explore a new definition of luxury: allowing 酒店开始尝试回答一个新的命题：当设计 design to step back so that natural setting and sense of locale may take 退到风景之后，奢华还能留下些什么？ center stage. 酒店由 CCD 操刀，以「当代院落」为 Conceived by Shenzhen Cheng Chung Design as a “modern neighbor概念，顺着山势展开，老木、青石、洱海鹅 hood,” the hotel unfolds along the mountain’s contours. Local materials 卵石等在地材料被克制地融入空间，让光 – vintage timber, bluestone, and pebbles from Erhai – are woven into the 线、水景和时间自然流动。这里很少有刻 interiors, allowing light, water, and the passage of time to flow naturally. 意打卡的设计，却处处都在借景。 There are few overtly “photogenic” design moments here; instead, every 宾客办理入住之后，先来到中央水景 corner frames a view. 边体验白族迎宾仪式 —— 三道茶。这道已 Arriving guests are welcomed at the central waterscape with the 有数百年历史的待客礼仪，浓缩的是白族 Three-Course Tea, a centuries-old Bai ritual of hospitality that distills the 对于人生「先苦后甜、回味无穷」的理解。 indigenous ethnic group’s philosophy of life: “first bitter, then sweet, with 茶文化没有停留在展示层面，而是成为入住 a lingering aftertaste.” More than simply a demonstration, the tea culture b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 61

The Lobby and Lobby Bar are the scene of the daily Evening Ritual, a blend of song, dance, and torchlight as night falls.

A guest room terrace offers a panoramic view of Cangshan Mountain and Erhai Lake.

当夜幕降临，歌声、舞蹈和火把共同在大堂吧拉开启夜时刻。

从房间露台远眺苍山洱海美景。

performance, guests are invited to dance and interact. A fire-lighting ceremony follows, blending the brand’s warmth, local culture, and the rhythms of daily life into a vibrant celebration of togetherness. In recent years, Luxury Group by Marriott International has succeeded in expressing the essence of destinations in varied ways. While W Hotels choose to redefine urban social exchange through music and nightlife, EDITION prefers to return the narrative to the place itself, to focus on making each venue a living part of a destination’s culture. When a hotel – like The Dali EDITION – can make that connection and evoke emotional response, it ceases to be merely a backdrop to the action and becomes a main character in an unfolding story.

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体验日常。从亲手采嫩芽到学炒青、制茶，再冲泡品饮，过程缓慢而完整。

151 间客房与套房分散排布在山间，既有面向洱海和远处城市天际线的开阔景观，也有安静望向茶园与庭院的房型，每一种视角，都对应着不同的大理。客房同样延续借景入室的理念，大面积落地窗将苍山、洱海、茶园引入室内，尤其浴室空间通过落地玻璃和开放式布局，让沐浴也成为欣赏自然的一部分。在大理艾迪逊酒店，大理的风土也延伸到了餐桌，尝试让世界经验与当地风味发生连接。酒店餐饮总监兼行政总厨林时南（Raymond Lim）曾在澳大利亚获得 Chef’s

Hat 认可，也曾在不同文化背景中探索餐饮表达。来到大理之后，他关注的并不是如何带来一种「外来的高级感」，而是如何用更开阔的视角重新理解这片土地。每晚八点，大堂吧「启夜时刻」在手打巴西鼓声中开启，DJ 每日开启现场表演，与客人跳舞互动。随后还会举行点火仪式。将品牌温度、本土文化与生活节奏交融，营造热烈真诚的欢聚氛围。这些年，万豪国际集团奢华品牌一直在尝试用不同方式讲述目的地。W 酒店用音乐与夜生活重新定义城市社交；艾迪逊酒店则把故事交还给地方本身，让酒店成为目的地文化的一部分。当一家酒店 —— 例如大理艾迪逊酒店 —— 承载连接与情感，便不再是旅途背景，而成为故事中有温度的主角。

COURTESY OF THE DALI EDITION (3)

here is an integrated part of the guest experience. The process unfolds slowly and completely, from handpicking fresh buds to learning the art of roasting to brewing and savoring the final product. The 151 guest rooms, suites, and villas are scattered along the hillside, offering either expansive views overlooking Erhai Lake and the distant city or quiet vistas of tea gardens and courtyards, each perspective revealing a different facet of Dali. The rooms continue the philosophy of borrowing from the landscape: Floor-to-ceiling windows draw Cangshan Mountain, Erhai Lake, and tea plantations inside. The bathrooms’ glass walls and open layouts transform bathing into immersion in nature. At The Dali EDITION, terroir extends to the dining table. Gastronomy becomes a gateway to understanding a distinctive place as local character informs international culinary expertise. Director of Food & Beverage and Culinary of The Dali EDITION Raymond Lim, who earned a Chef’s Hat in Australia and explored a diversity of global cuisines before arriving in Dali, focuses not on importing an “external sense of sophistication” but on interpreting this land through a broader lens. Each day at 8 p.m., to the beating of Brazilian drums, the Lobby and Lobby Bar come alive with the Evening Ritual. As the DJ leads a live

RESORT

Hugging the contours of the hillside, The Dali EDITION becomes one with the landscape. 大理艾迪逊酒店依山而建，让设计与自然共生

CULINARY EVENT

Culinary Bridges Across six cities and seven Michelin-starred restaurants, Sands Resorts Macao’s landmark trade-and-media series traced the flavors that connect Asia – a fitting overture to The Parisian Macao’s tenth anniversary. BY JOEY CHEANG

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

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SEOUL JUNGSIK BEIJING TRB HUTONG HANGZHOU SONG TAIPEI LOGY BANGKOK NUSARA KUALA LUMPUR MOLINA HANGZHOU JIN SHA

CULINARY EVENT

H E R E ’ S AN O LD I D E A , worn smooth from repetition but no less true for it, that a shared meal is the shortest route between strangers. On that premise, Sands Resorts Macao built an entire transcontinental journey. Over several weeks, Culinary Bridges Asia carried a rotating cast of travel-trade partners, media, and key opinion leaders through six cities – Seoul, Beijing, Hangzhou, Taipei, Bangkok, and Kuala Lumpur – seating them at the tables of seven of the region’s most closely watched kitchens, each helmed by a chef fluent in the specific dialect of his city’s food culture. The premise was simple, the execution considerably less so. At each stop, a Michelinrecognized restaurant was asked to frame a single theme – Heritage & Innovation, Imperial Legacy & Contemporary Craft, Poetry & Nature, Island Heritage & Culinary Innovation, Royal Heritage & Refined Tradition, Harmony of Crossroad – through its own regional lens. What emerged was less a uniform tasting-menu format than seven distinct arguments for how tradition survives not by staying still but by being cooked, again and again, by someone willing to ask why a dish exists before deciding what to do with it. Each evening closed a loop between plate and performance. Across the six cities, the menus were paired with live music and craft echoing the same spirit driving the kitchen: a calligrapher inscribing moon jars in Seoul, a contemporary ensemble blending erhu and piano in Beijing, guzheng drifting through Hangzhou’s

Song-dynasty rooms, a Truku hunting flute in Taipei, classical dance in Bangkok, and a Bornean sapé player closing the journey in Kuala Lumpur. Food was the throughline, sound and craft the accent. The timing was not incidental. The series was conceived as a lead-up to a milestone closer to home, The Parisian Macao’s tenth anniversary, celebrated from September 11 to 13, 2026. It also sat squarely inside the Macao SAR Government’s “Tourism+” strategy, the push to diversify the destination’s appeal beyond gaming into culture, cuisine, and lifestyle. Six cities, seven chefs, one long table stretching across Asia, all roads eventually leading back to Macau. What follows is the journey, city by city, chef by chef, dish by dish.

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有一种古老的说法，因被反复提及而磨得温润，却依然不损其真：一顿共享的饭是陌生人之间最短的路。澳门金沙度假区以此为前提，铺展出一整段横跨大陆的旅程。历时数周，「连城美馔．盛宴之旅」亚洲系列带着一批轮换的旅游业界伙伴、媒体与关键意见领袖，走过六座城市 —— 首尔、北京、杭州、台北、曼谷与吉隆坡 —— 让他们坐进区内最受瞩目的七家餐厅。每一家，都由一位深谙所在城市的独特饮食文化的主厨掌舵。前提很简单，执行却并非易事。每一站，都请一家米其林星级餐厅，以自身的地域视角围绕一个主题展开 ——「守味传承．风味新生」「京城雅韵．当代匠心」「诗画江南．湖山入宴」「宝岛风华．味啓新章」「宫廷遗韵．泰味承新」「交汇成味．和而不同」。最终呈现的并非千篇一律的品鉴菜单，而是七种截然不同的主张：传统如何存续？不是靠原地踏步，而是靠那些一次次地重新烹制的人；在决定如何呈现一道菜之前，他们愿意先追问 —— 这道菜为何存在。每一个夜晚，都在餐盘与演出之间闭合一个回环。六座城市里，菜单皆与现场音乐与手工艺相配，呼应着驱动厨房的同一种精神：首尔有书法家为月亮罐题字，北京有当代乐团以二胡与钢琴合奏，杭州有古筝声穿过宋代厅堂，中国台北有太鲁阁猎笛流转，曼谷有古典舞蹈演绎，吉隆坡则有婆罗洲萨佩琴手为旅程收尾。食物是主线，声音与手艺则是口音。时机的选择并非偶然。这系列活动被构想为一场前奏，指向更近家门的里程碑 —— 于 2026 年 9 月 11 日至 13 日举行的澳门巴黎人十周年庆典。它也恰好落在中国澳门特别行政区政府「旅游 +」战略之中，即推动目的地吸引力从博彩向文化、美食与生活方式多元发展。六座城市，七位主厨，一张横贯亚洲的长桌，所有道路最终都回到澳门。接下来，便是这段旅程，按城市、主厨和菜式逐一展开。

CULINARY EVENT

Banchan 韩国小菜

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CHAPTER

ONE

SEOUL JUNGSIK 정식당

Heritage & Innovation

CULINARY EVENT

Dolhareubang 济州岛石头老人

TH E SERIES OPEN ED where its governing idea is easiest to see on a plate. At Jungsik, Korean tradition and contemporary technique don’t sit side by side so much as fold into one another. For Chef Jeongho Kim, that confluence starts with a discipline almost old-fashioned in its simplicity: “The three most important elements in my cooking are balance, purpose, and the guest’s experience. A dish must taste good, with its flavors in balance. Second, I believe it’s important to know why I am creating it. And I always ask myself what I want to convey to our guests through the dish.” His approach to ingredients follows the same instincts: sustainability, seasonality, and a preference for produce picked slightly before peak ripeness, “when its acidity can bring something interesting to a dish.” He gravitates toward Korean namul (edible greens and herbs) and root vegetables, the unglamorous backbone of home cooking, elevated without being disguised. The one dish that distills Jungsik’s entire premise? “Gimbap,” he replies, “one of Korea’s simplest and most beloved soul foods.” The everyday roll gets a new expression with gim bugak , a traditional technique of crisp-fried seaweed. Heritage, in Kim’s hands, doesn’t arrive from the past like carefully preserved cargo. It gets taken apart on arrival and rebuilt as raw material.

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宴席的第一站，选在一个最易从盘中看见其核心理念的城市。在 Jungsik，韩国传统与当代技法并非并列共存，更像是彼此折叠、交融。对主厨 Jeongho Kim 而言，这种交汇始于一种近乎老派的极简纪律：「我烹饪里最重要的三个要素是平衡、目的与客人的体验。一道菜首先得好吃，风味平衡。其次，我认为弄清楚自己为何要创造它，是至关重要的。我总是问自己，我想通过这道菜向客人传达什么。」他对食材的态度也遵循同样的直觉：可持续、时令以及偏好略早于成熟期采摘的农产品。「那时它的酸度能为一道菜带来有意思的东西。」他偏爱韩国 namul（可食用的绿叶与香草）与根茎类蔬菜 —— 家常烹饪中不起眼的骨架被提升，却不被伪装。若问哪一道菜能浓缩 Jungsik 的全部主张？他答道：「紫菜包饭，韩国最简单、最受欢迎的灵魂食物之一。」这道日常卷物以 gim bugak—— 一种酥炸海苔的传统技法 —— 获得新的表达。在 Jeongho 手中，传承并非像精心保存的货物那样从过去抵达；它抵达之后就被拆解，再作为原料重新搭建。

CULINARY EVENT

“I always ask myself what I want to convey to our guests through the dish. 我总是问自己，我想通过这道菜向客人传达什么。” Chef Jeongho Kim

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CULINARY EVENT

CHAPTER

T WO

BEIJING TRB HUTONG

Imperial Legacy & Contemporary Craft

← Montblanc, confit chestnut, blackcurrants, meringue leaves 蒙布朗、糖渍栗子、黑加仑、蛋白花瓣

Buckwheat French crepe, mackerel fish 荞麦可丽饼、鲭鱼

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“Would someone who grew up in Beijing recognize that flavor straightaway? If the answer is no, then I need to go back and work on it. 一个在北京长大的人可以立刻认出这种味道吗？如果答案是否定的，那我就得回去重新打磨。” Chef Lucas Garigliano

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Blue Lobster: Lobster Bisque, Buttermilk, Koji 布列塔尼蓝龙虾: 龙虾浓汤、酪乳、米麴

H O L D I N G A M I C H E L I N S TA R since 2023, TRB Hutong occupies a six-century-old temple courtyard a stone’s throw from the Forbidden City. It’s a setting where imperial legacy isn’t a marketing line so much as an architectural fact guests walk through before they’ve eaten a single course. Chef Lucas Garigliano, who arrived by way of Barcelona, France, and Dubai, describes his first months in Beijing as “a real education”: fermentation, vinegars, the ceremonial role of tea, an entirely different grammar of texture. His method now runs on a single, disciplined question: “Would someone who grew up in Beijing recognize that flavor straightaway? If the answer is no, then I need to go back and work on it.” His cooking rests on three pillars: product, balance, emotion. “The product always comes first. My job is to bring out what is already there,” he says. Balance means insisting that a dish with eight components should still taste simple. Emotion is memory folded into food, “a flavor from childhood that gives it an identity.” The dish that carries all three is his yellow croaker with Beijing douzhi, a sour, pungent fermented mung bean drink that the Qianlong Emperor turned into palace fare in the eighteenth century. Garigliano is now on his fourth version of the dish. “The contemporary craft is really in the technique and the balance of the plate,” he says. “But at the center of it is a flavor that Beijing has known for hundreds of years.”

TRB Hutong 坐落于一座拥有六百年历史的寺庙庭院内，距紫禁城仅咫尺之遥，自 2023 年起连续获得米其林一星殊荣。在这里，京城雅韵不是一句营销口号，而是宾客在享用第一道菜之前，就已穿行其间的建筑实景。主厨 Lucas Garigliano 经巴塞罗那、法国与迪拜而来，他将初抵北京的那几个月形容为一次「真正的学习之旅」：接触发酵工艺、各类醋品和茶道仪式，以及一整套完全不同的质感表达方式。如今，他的烹饪理念遵循着一个严谨的准则：「一个在北京长大的人可以立刻认出这种味道吗？如果答案是否定的，那我就得回去重新打磨。」他的烹饪建立在三大支柱之上：食材、平衡和情感。他说：「食材永远是第一位。我的工作就是激发食材本身蕴含的特质。」平衡意味着即使一道菜有八种元素，尝起来依然简单。情感则是融入食物中的记忆，一抹童年记忆中的味道，也成为它独特风味的标识。完美融合这三大要素的代表作是他的「黄鱼配北京豆汁」。豆汁是一种酸味浓郁、气味独特的发酵绿豆饮品，早在 18 世纪便被乾隆皇帝纳入宫廷御膳。 Lucas 如今已将这道菜改良至第四个版本。他表示：「当代烹饪技艺体现在技法和盘中的平衡上，但它的核心是一种北京人熟知了数百年的味道。」 b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 75

CHAPTER

THREE

HANGZHOU JIN SHA 金沙厅 Poetry & Nature

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Egg custard with hairy crab meat and roe, green soybeans, fermented soybeans 双豆六月黄炖蛋

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CULINARY EVENT

Steamed red king prawn, salted lemon, pork caul fat 咸柠檬鸡冠油蒸红魔虾

H A N G Z H O U E A R N E D T W O C H A P T E R S , and earned them honestly. This is a city whose entire food culture is inseparable from its geography. The series’s Hangzhou leg played out as something close to a diptych, one dinner built around a lake, another around the sea it eventually meets. Jin Sha sits on the shore of West Lake, and Chef Wang Yong treats it less as scenic backdrop than as supplier. “West Lake isn’t just a view outside our window,” he explains. “Its waters, the surrounding hills and tea gardens, and the seasonal produce of the wider Jiangzhe region all shape how we choose and prepare our ingredients.” His governing trio of ingredient, season, and flavor is deliberately unshowy: “Good cooking should let the ingredient itself be seen,” he says, positioning technique as a means rather than a message. Asked how his kitchen speaks to the evening’s brief, he resists literalism outright: “Poetic Jiangnan isn’t landscape painted onto a plate. It’s understanding the people, land, water, and seasons here.” His answer arrives as West Lake water shield with snow crab and vinegar jelly. The water shield, grown in the lake itself, delicate in texture and clean in taste, is paired with crab, bright vinegar jelly, tomato, and basil seed, the acidity used only to lift the vegetable’s own character rather than override it. “We didn’t try to depict West Lake,” he says. “We let West Lake’s own ingredient walk into the dish.” Lakes and mountains, quite literally, at the table.

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杭州赢得两章篇幅，且实至名归。这座城市的饮食文化与其地理环境有着密不可分的联系。该系列活动的杭州站呈现出一种「双联画」般的格局：一场晚宴以湖泊为灵感，另一场则围绕湖水最终汇入的大海展开。「金沙厅」坐落在西子湖畔，主厨王勇并未将西湖仅仅视为窗外风景，而是将其看作食材的源头。他解释：「西湖不只是我们窗外的景致，它的湖水、周边的山林与茶园，以及江浙不同地区的时令物产，都会影响我们如何选择和处理食材。」他在烹饪中遵循「食材、时令、味道」三大准则，刻意避免张扬。他说：「好的烹饪应该让食材本身被看见。」他认为技术是手段，而非表达的信息。当被问及厨房如何回应当晚的主题时，他明确拒绝字面意义中的演绎：「『诗意江南』并不是把山水画在盘子里，而是去理解这里的人、土地、水域和四季。」他的答案是「西湖莼菜、蟹肉佐醋冻」。莼菜生于湖中，质地柔嫩，味道清雅，与雪蟹肉、明亮的醋冻、番茄与罗勒籽相配，酸度只用来托起蔬菜本身的风味，而非覆盖它。他说：「我们没有把西湖做成一道风景，而是让西湖本身的食材进入这道菜。」湖光山色就这样真切地呈现在了餐桌之上。

“Good cooking should let the ingredient itself be seen. 好的烹饪应该让食材本身被看见。” Chef Wang Yong 王勇

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East China Sea yellow croaker, pickled vegetables 东海黄鱼，过水泡菜

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FOUR

HANGZHOU SONG 中餐厅·颂

Poetry & Nature

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“Tradition is not about replication. It comes back to one thing – it has to taste good. 传统不是照搬，终归还是要回到『好吃』本身。” Chef Neal Zeng 曾东海

Marinated crab, ginger, vinegar, soy sauce, liquor 招牌宁式十八斩

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A S H O R T D I S TA N C E AWAY, inside a celadon-green dining room at Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou at Hangzhou Centre, Song answers from a different coastline, Ningbo, whose rich, soulful traditions are elevated into something quietly contemporary. For Chef Neal Zeng, the operating principles – ingredient, season, balance – are almost identical to his Jin Sha counterpart’s but arrive at a different destination. The ingredient comes first, followed by an insistence on seasonality: “The changing seasons bring not only different ingredients, but also the anticipation of their flavor.” Balance is where Song’s identity actually lives: a reinterpreted Ningbo palate with authentic flavors intact but refined through contemporary technique into something “more layered and suited to how we eat today. Tradition is not about replication. It comes back to one thing – it has to taste good. Jiangnan is not only in its landscapes but also in everyday food,” he says. While Hangzhou sits closer to lake and mountain, Ningbo is closer to the sea. The table becomes the meeting point as East China Sea yellow croaker – a fish tied to generations of Zhejiang food memory – is served with pickled vegetables. “Acidity is not the lead here,” Zeng says. “It simply lifts the umami, lightly and precisely. Jiangnan is not far away – it’s right here, in this bite.”

不远处，在杭州中心四季酒店一间青瓷色调的餐厅里，「颂」从另一条海岸线作答 —— 宁波。那里深厚而富有灵性的饮食传统被升华为一种低调而现代的风格。对主厨曾东海而言，他的烹饪理念 —— 食材、时令与平衡 —— 与金沙厅主厨的理念一脉相承，却抵达了不同的终点。食材为先，随后是对时令的坚持：「四季更替带来的不只是不同的食材，也是人们对其美味的想象与期待。」平衡才是中餐厅 · 颂味型的精髓所在：一种被重新诠释的宁波风味，保留了地道本味，通过当代烹饪技法加以细腻调整得「更有层次、「传统不是更符合当下的饮食习惯。」他说道：照搬，终归还是要回到『好吃』本身。江南不只在山水之间，也在日常的饮食里。」杭州更亲湖山，而宁波更近海。当承载着几代浙江人饮食记忆的东海黄鱼与过水泡菜相遇，餐桌便成为了风味交融的舞台。曾主厨解释：「酸香在这里不是主角，而是轻轻地、巧妙地把鲜味烘托起来。江南不在远方，就在这一口美味里。」 b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 83

CULINARY EVENT

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CHAPTER

FIVE

TAIPEI LOGY

Island Heritage & Culinary Innovation

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CULINARY EVENT

“I value expression so personal that, even without seeing the chef ’s name, you can sense who created the dish. 我珍视那种极具个人风格的表达——即便不看主厨的名字，食客也能感受到这道菜出自谁手。” Chef Ryogo Tahara 田原谅悟

I F H A N G Z H O U ’ S S TO R Y was about geography, Taipei’s was about identity. Chef Ryogo Tahara is Japanese by upbringing, Taiwanese by many years of cooking, and at logy he has stopped trying to pick a side: “Taiwan’s ingredients, culture, and sense of taste are now inseparable from the sensibilities I developed as a Japanese chef.” His three governing elements of identity, aroma, and temperature read almost like a manifesto: “Technique alone is not enough. I value expression so personal that, even without seeing the chef’s name, you can sense who created the dish.” Aroma, he argues, is a medium with its own timeline: “the scent when the plate first arrives, the moment it enters the mouth – each can emerge at a different time.” He deliberately leaves gaps of tension in a dish rather than resolving everything into harmony, “like dissonance in music.” F o r Ta h a r a , Ta i w a n’s fo o d c u l t u re w a s n eve r i n s u l a r: “Movements of people and cultures, climate, land, and ingredients have overlapped.” Logy mirrors that condition with dishes like Tea Rice, Japanese rice cooked with Taiwanese tea, the two connected by water alone. “Rice is cooked by absorbing water, while tea releases its aroma and flavor through water,” he explains. The aroma travels from tea into water into rice, rising again only once the rice is chewed. Tradition remains, but the attention changes – a second look at relationships that were already there.

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如果说杭州的故事关乎地理，中国台北的故事则关乎身份认同。主厨田原谅悟在日本成长，却在中国台湾磨练厨艺多年；在 logy，他不再试图选边站：「台湾的食材、文化与味觉体验，如今已与我作为日本主厨所形成的感知融为一体。」他所秉持的「身份认同」、「香气」与「温度」这三大要素，读来宛如一份烹饪宣言：「仅凭技艺是不够的。我珍视那种极具个人风格的表达 —— 即便不看主厨的名字，食客也能感受到这道菜出自谁手。」他主张香气是一种拥有独特时间维度的媒介：「菜式刚上桌时的香气，与入口的瞬间 —— 它们各自在不同的时刻显现。」他刻意在菜式中保留充满张力的「留白」，而非追求一切归于和谐统一，这正如「音乐中的不协和音」。对田原谅悟而言，台湾的饮食文化从来不是封闭的：「人与文化的流动、气候、土地与食材，一直在相互融合。」logy 的菜品便映照了这种特质，例如「茶饭」—— 以台湾茶烹煮日本米，两者仅通过「水」这一介质相连。他解释：「米饭通过吸收水分而熟成，而茶则借由水释放香气与风味。」香气从茶转移至水，再渗透进米饭，最终在咀嚼米饭时再次升腾。传统得以保留，但视角发生了转变 —— 这是对既有关系的重新审视与解读。

Shaoxing wine jelly, mud crab, mango 绍兴酒啫喱、泥蟹、芒果 ↓ Abalone, apricot kernel, gamtae 鲍鱼、南北杏、甘苔

CULINARY EVENT

CHAPTER

SIX

BANGKOK NUSARA Royal Heritage & Refined Tradition

Fiddle ferns salad with crispy whitebait 酥炸银鱼配蕨菜沙拉

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Longan with squid and pork, snakehead fish dumplings and caviar, Chicken Gor-Lae, Northern style beef tartare and tomato cone (Clockwise from the top) 龙眼配鱿鱼与猪肉、黑鱼饺子配鱼子酱、Gor-Lae 烤鸡、泰北风味生牛肉他他配番茄脆筒（从顶部开始，顺时针方向）

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CULINARY EVENT

“This isn’t exactly the food she cooked for me, but she definitely got that. 这跟她以前给我做的菜确实不太一样，但她肯定能理解其中的精髓。” Chef Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn

A F T E R TA I P E I ’ S M E D I TAT I O N o n id entit y, B a ng ko k answered with something equally personal. Nusara takes its name, and much of its emotional architecture, from Nusara Leewannapasai, Chef Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn’s grandmother, who, working as a seamstress, raised him after his father died. Her photographs, textiles, and old sewing machines furnish the dining room, and the ground-floor bar carries her name in neon. Of the many culinary accolades Ton has earned, there’s one he treasures most: “It was for my grandmother,” he says of Nusara’s Michelin star that he promised before her passing he would win in her honor. What three tenets guide his kitchen? “For me it’s about ‘Thai-ness,’” about sourcing “from small farmers, tribes, fishermen, and foragers.” Then, hospitality, which is the room itself, the Wat Pho views, a welcome inseparable from what’s on the plate. Finally, memory, present most visibly in his “Colorful Thai Cuisine,” his grandmother’s simple recipes taken further: her crab noodles rebuilt into Nusara’s roe-layered crab curry, her modest tom kha lifted with river prawns “like Thailand lobster. This isn’t exactly the food she cooked for me, but she definitely got that.” For the evening’s brief on royal heritage, that same instinct reached back more than two centuries to the kingly cuisine of early Bangkok and a recipe for tom kha . Heritage meets heritage in a dish carrying the refinement of a palace, served by a chef whose real inheritance came from a woman with a sewing machine and no royal kitchen at all.

继中国台北对身份认同的深思之后，曼谷也给出了同样充满个人情感的回应。Nusara 餐厅的名字及其情感内核很大程度上源自主厨 Thitid「Ton」Tassanakajohn 的祖母 Nusara Leewannapasai。她曾是一名裁缝，在

Ton 的父亲去世后独自将他抚养长大。餐厅内陈列着她的照片、织物和旧缝纫机，一楼酒吧的霓虹灯招牌也以她为名。在 Ton 赢得的众多烹饪荣誉中，有一项对他而言弥足珍贵：「那是为了我祖母的。」他谈到

Nusara 摘得的米其林星时说道。他曾在祖母生前承诺，会为她赢得这颗星。指引他烹饪理念的三大准则是什么？「对我而言，核心在于『泰式风味』，以及从小农户、部落居民、渔民和野外采集者那里采购食材。」其次是待客之道，这体现在餐厅的空间氛围、窗外卧佛寺的景致，以及那种与盘中佳肴融为一体的迎宾体验。最后是记忆，这最直观地体现在他的「缤纷泰式料理」中 —— 那是对祖母简单食谱的升华与重塑：她做的蟹肉面演变成 Nusara 层次丰富的蟹籽蟹肉咖喱；她那朴实的椰奶鸡汤，则加入了堪比「泰国龙虾」的河虾来提亮。「这跟她以前给我做的菜确实不太一样，但她肯定能理解其中的精髓。」面对当晚关于「宫廷遗韵」的主题，同样的直觉引领他回溯至两个多世纪前曼谷早期的宫廷膳食，以及一份椰奶鸡汤的古法食谱。当一种传承与另一种传承在此相遇，便诞生了这道具宫廷精致感的佳肴；而掌勺的主厨，其真正的传承却源自一位只有缝纫机，并且从未涉足皇室御膳房的女性。 b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 91

CHAPTER

SEVEN

KUALA LUMPUR MOLINA

Harmony of Crossroad

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Chicken liver waffle 鸡肝华夫饼

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TH E SERIES CLOSED, fittingly, at a restaurant built on a crossroads by design. Molina is a dual-culture partnership between Malaysian hotelier Datuk Alex Tan and Dutch master chef Sidney Schutte that Head Chef Guillaume Depoortere credits as the source of the restaurant’s identity. “This combination is what first defined Molina’s crossroads, and that philosophy has been carried through to our guests,” he says, noting that roughly 90 percent of the clientele is local, drawn to a European fine-dining experience delivered against the Kuala Lumpur skyline. Depoortere’s cooking is rooted in European technique but built around what’s fresh and near at hand. “We prefer using produce with a shorter travel distance rather than relying only on imported products,” he says, citing his childhood by the coast and among farmers as the source of his affinity for foraging and flavor. That inclination is now being rewritten by Southeast Asia’s bounty: “Here, I’ve discovered a whole new world of textures and ingredients to explore.” The dish that closes the loop is Molina’s signature, local smoked sturgeon belly ser ved with fenugreek, but termilk, and lovage. “It represents everything Molina stands for,” says Depoortere. “Texture, acidity, smokiness, freshness. It’s truly a Harmony of Crossroad.” Which is as good a description as any of the seven chefs, six cities, and one long, intentional journey that brought them to the same table.

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这一系列活动的压轴之作，恰如其分地选在了一家因「交汇」理念而设计的餐厅 ——Molina。Molina 是马来西亚拿督 Alex Tan 与荷兰名厨 Sidney Schutte 之间跨文化合作的结晶，主厨 Guillaume

Depoortere 认为正是这种合作赋予了餐厅独特的灵魂。他说：「这种结合，最初定义了 Molina 的『交汇』特质，而这一哲学也传递给客人。」他指出，约九成客群是本地人，他们被这种能一边欣赏吉隆坡天际线、一边享受欧式精致餐饮的体验所吸引。

Guillaume 的烹饪技艺植根于欧洲传统，但选材上则侧重于新鲜且触手可及的本地食材。他表示：「我们更倾向于使用运输距离较短的农产品，而不是单纯依赖进口货。」他说自己童年在海岸与农户间度过的经历，培养了他对采集食材及风味探索的热爱。如今，东南亚的丰饶正在改写他的烹饪风格：「在这里，我发现了一个充满质感与食材的全新世界，等待着我去探索。」为这段圆环收尾的是 Molina 的招牌菜 —— 本地烟熏鲟鱼腹，配葫芦巴、酪乳与欧当归。「它体现了 Molina 的一切精髓。 Guillaume 介绍道：质感、酸度、烟熏、清新。这才是真正的『交汇成味』」这句话也是对整个旅程 —— 七位主厨、六座城市，以及那段将他们汇聚于同一餐桌前的漫长而用心的旅程 —— 最贴切的注脚。

CULINARY EVENT

“Here, I’ve discovered a whole new world of textures and ingredients to explore. 在这里，我发现了一个充满质感与食材的全新世界，等待着我去探索。” Chef Guillaume Depoortere

Sturgeon 鲟鱼

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初心之味

FULL-CIRCLE MOMENT At Estuary, Hong Kong’s reigning master of boundary-less Chinese cuisine cooks the food he started with.

TASTING NOTES

Dauricus caviar, spring turnip, sweet peas and chervil are served with a tableside pour of lacto-fermented turnip sauce transformed into liquid, brightened with lime and cream, creating a rich play of acidity and creamy umami. 以Dauricus鱼子酱配春芜菁、甜豆与法国细叶芹，并于桌边注入以青柠和奶油制作的乳酸发酵芜菁酱汁，演绎咸、酸与奶香旨味的优雅平衡。 BETWEEN SKY AND EARTH | TK |

Harvey Hsieh and Vicky Cheng 谢宗卫及郑永麒

RECENTLY NAM ED Black Pearl Restaurant Guide’s Master Chef of the Year 2026, Hong Kong chef Vicky Cheng has spent the better part of a decade answering his own question: How might the world learn to see Chinese cuisine anew? At Michelin-starred VEA , he filtered Cantonese flavors through French technique. At WING, ranked No. 2 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2026, he pushed

近日获颁 2026 年《黑珍珠餐厅指南》年度主厨大，近十年来始奖的香港名厨郑永麒（Vicky Cheng）终在回答自己提出的一个问题：如何让世界重新理解中餐？在米其林星级餐厅 VEA，他以法式技艺重构粤菜语境；在 2026 年「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」中排名第二的「永」，他更进一步，从最根本的原则出发，

构建出他所谓的「无界中菜」。这两家餐 further, building from first principles what he calls 厅都让他愈发深入自己的文化根脉，而 “boundary-less Chinese cuisine.” Both restaurants drew BY 如今，5 月 29 日于澳门银河嘉佩乐开业 him deeper into his own heritage, but now Estuary EDDIE CHEUNG 的 Estuary by Vicky Cheng，则将他拉 by Vicky Cheng, which opened May 29 at Capella at & JOEY CHEANG 回最初的起点。 Galaxy Macau, pulls him back toward his starting point. • 郑永麒表示：「法餐，是我厨师生 “French cuisine is where my journey as a chef PHOTOGRAPHY BY 涯的起点。好的料理应当是慷慨的。它 began,” he says. “Great cooking should be generous. DAVID HARTUNG 既滋养你，也要让你感到那份极致享受 It should nourish you while still giving you that sense 与仪式感。」二十五年前，他最大的梦想便是开一 of indulgence and occasion.” Twenty-five years after he first 家真正属于自己的餐厅；十年前，他开始调和法式 dreamed of a restaurant purely his own and a decade after he 训练与中式根源。如今，他称 Estuary 为「一个圆 began reconciling his French training with his Chinese roots, he 满的节点」。 calls Estuary “a full-circle moment.” 郑永麒与澳门银河的管理层进行了七八年的对 Cheng and Galaxy Macau’s management had been talking 话和沟通，直到嘉佩乐进驻度假村，一切才终于水 informally for seven or eight years before everything aligned with 到渠成。值得注意的是，银河并非要再添一家高端 Capella’s arrival at the resort. Notably, Galaxy was not looking for

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TASTING NOTES

Blue lobster poached in lobster butter arrives with a fermented pineapple brunoise and a trio of zucchini textures, lifted by a shellfish consommé giving sweet, tangy notes. 以龙虾牛油低温焗煮的蓝龙虾，佐以发酵菠萝粒与三重西葫芦口感铺陈层次；以贝类清汤提味，带出若隐若现的甜香与微酸韵律。

The charcoal-grilled fish maw glazed with black garlic, at once crispy yet tender, is served tableside on a bed of cordyceps mushrooms and ginkgo nuts, with a sand-ginger-infused beurre blanc sauce, giving it smoky, collagen-rich intensity. 经炭火烤制的花胶外层裹以黑蒜的光泽，外脆内嫩。席前伴以虫草花、银杏及沙姜风味白奶油酱汁，带出烟熏气息交织着富含胶质口感的多维层次。

another high-end Chinese restaurant, since it already anchors several within its own portfolio. What it lacked, Cheng observed, was a genuinely world-class French restaurant, not simply a transplanted classical French concept executed by the book. “The hotel understood that many of our top guests have discerning palates shaped by lighter, Asian flavor traditions,” he explains, “and cream-driven classical French food doesn’t always resonate with that reference.” The brief was for a restaurant technically faithful to French cooking but reinterpreted through an Asian chef’s own taste memory. It was precisely the gap Cheng felt qualified to fill. Estuary’s philosophy, what he terms “Indulgent, Nourishing French Gastronomy,” takes its cue from the point where river meets sea, a place, Cheng says, of transformation and renewal. Butter and cream are pared back while fermentation, clarified consommés, delicate jellies, and essential-oil extraction do the work instead, building richness without weight. It shows up most vividly in his signature dish of more-than-a-decade-aged fish maw grilled tableside over live charcoal until its surface lacquers and smokes, then laid over cordyceps mushrooms and ginkgo nuts, glazed with fermented black garlic, and finished with a sand-ginger beurre blanc. These ingredients form the backbone of a classic Cantonese tonic soup, and Cheng’s instinct was to ask what happens when that soup is dismantled and rebuilt entirely in the language of French technique. “The flavor foundation is 100 percent French,” he says, “but what it delivers is unlike anything that’s come before.” Cheng is equally emphatic that the Estuary’s unhurried, twoand-a-half-hour rhythm of guéridon tableside service, candlelit

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中餐厅 —— 其旗下已汇聚数家享誉盛名的顶级中餐厅。郑永麒观察到，真正缺少的是一家世界级的高端法式餐厅，而且不是那种按部就班、移植而来的古典法餐。他解释：「酒店非常清楚，我们许多顶级食客的味蕾，是由更轻盈的亚洲风味传统塑造的，而奶油感强烈的传统法餐，在饮食习惯上很难产生深度共鸣。」于是，任务很明确：一家在烹饪技艺上极其纯正、但在风味解构上是由「亚洲主厨的味觉系统」去重新建立和诠释的餐厅。这正是郑永麒觉得自己有资格填补的空白。

Estuary 的烹饪哲学，被他称作「沁享滋养美食学」，灵感取自江河与海洋的交汇之处 —— 用郑永麒的话说，那是一个蜕变与新生的丰饶之地。大幅减少黄油和奶油的负担，引入发酵工艺、澄清肉汤、精致晶冻与精油萃取，让浓郁依旧存在，却变得更加轻盈、更具层次。最能体现这一点的，是他的招牌菜：陈放十余年的花胶，在席前以炭火现烤，直到表面微微焦脆、烟气升腾，再铺于虫草与白果之上，刷一层发酵黑蒜，最后以沙姜风味白奶油酱汁收尾。这些食材，本是粤式滋补汤的经典元素；郑永麒的直觉，是追问一句 —— 若把这碗汤彻底拆解，再以法式技法的语言重新建构，又会是什么模样？他说：「风味基础是百分之百法式的，但它所呈现的却是前所未有。」他同样强调，Estuary 那约两个半小时、不疾不徐的节奏 —— 推车席前服务、烛光醒酒、甜

TASTING NOTES

decanting, and dessert and tisanes presented in sequence is not indulgence for its own sake but a function of discipline. “Slow dining is a luxury of time, but for us the real keyword is efficiency,” he says. A sluggish two-hour service can feel interminable while a tightly choreographed four-hour one can feel effortless. That matters especially in Macau, he notes, where guests often have a late evening of entertainment waiting after dinner. Before opening, the team rehearsed every tableside gesture daily for more than two months, refining pacing until ceremony and efficiency flawlessly coexist. He shapes Estuary’s vision alongside Executive Chef Harvey Hsieh, his protégé and former chef de cuisine at VEA, trained at Le Cordon Bleu Sydney and in the kitchens of La Dame de Pic, Amber, Restaurant André, and L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon. “I’ve seen Harvey grow over the years,” says Cheng, “both as a chef and as a leader. I trust him to carry the restaurant forward.” At Estuary, he adds, you “leave full and satisfied, and your body feels completely at ease.”

品与花草茶依次呈现 —— 并非为奢华而奢华，而是纪律的产物。他说：「慢节奏，是一种时间的奢侈；但对我们而言，真正的关键是效率。」拖沓的两小时会令人如坐针毡，而编排严密的四小时反倒行云流水。这一点在澳门尤其重要，他提到，客人饭后往往还要赶一场演出，或赶赴深夜娱乐。开业前，团队每天排练每一个桌边动作，持续两个多月，不断打磨节奏，直到仪式感与效率完美共存。与他一同勾勒 Estuary 蓝图的，是行政总厨谢宗卫 —— 他的门生，曾任 VEA 厨房主管，并曾在悉尼蓝带国际学院接受培训，之后还在知名餐厅 La Dame de Pic、Amber、Restaurant André 以及 L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon 历练厨艺。郑永麒说：「这些年，无论是作为主厨，还是领导者，我都看着他一步步成长。我相信他能带领餐厅继续前行。」他补充道，在 Estuary，你会「吃得满足，离开时身体也格外自在」。

M7 to M8 Wagyu rump cap is charcoal-grilled to medium-rare and smoked over sugarcane for a caramelized edge. A pithivier of barigoule artichokes sits alongside, with a delicate beef boudin blanc enriched by aromatic carrot and onion. M7至M8等级澳洲Mayura和牛的臀盖肉炭烧至三分熟，并以甘蔗熏制至外层边缘焦糖化。一旁伴以朝鲜蓟制成的焗酥派，酥皮内里包裹着细腻的牛肉白肠，佐以胡萝卜与洋葱的芬芳。

Supreme cuisine in the signature Robuchon style 秉承Robuchon标志性风格的顶尖美馔

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焕新而生经典如初

TIMELESS ALLURE At L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Hong Kong, Executive Chef Julien Tongourian puts his contemporary stamp on the enduring legacy of his illustrious mentor. BY ANDREW SUN

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

BETWEEN SKY AND EARTH | TK |

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Executive Chef Julien Tongourian 行政总厨 Julien Tongourian

FOLLOWING ITS MA JOR RENOVATION and relocation in 2025 to Hong Kong’s Landmark Atrium, globally acclaimed L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon remains a glossy boudoir of black and red. The only L’Atelier worldwide to hold a three-Michelin-star rating for thirteen consecutive years, from 2012 to 2024, it regained two stars in less than a year after reopening, thanks to the expertise of Chef Julien Tongourian and his enormously talented team. The décor and customer experience have been brilliantly renewed, but the inimitable Robuchon essence is unchanged. And the cuisine – as well as the legendary hospitality – maintains the storied Robuchon standard: supreme. Now, at the rejuvenated restaurant’s one-year milestone, things continue to evolve. A new VIP room, La Salle à Manger, takes exclusive dining to another zenith of urbane splendor. The lounge melds toward a jet-black dinner table with a view of Tongourian and his team in their iconic open-kitchen theater. Unlike the typical chrome commercial prep station, this new quarter more resembles a home kitchen, with a cozy yet indulgent vibe that breaks down the wall between patron and chef. “At L’Atelier, we wanted to create something different but luxurious,” says Tongourian. “The concept behind everything in the room is handcraft – the decoration, the plates, the cutlery. The glassware and crystal elements are all from Lalique. The kitchen equipment is from La Cornue, a label at least three centuries old. They’re works of French art.

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2025 年，享誉全球的 L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon 完成大规模翻新，并迁址香港置地广场中庭，依旧是黑红交织、温润如玉的优雅殿堂。作为全球唯一一家自 2012 年至 2024 年连续十三年蝉联米其林三星的 L’Atelier，它在重新开业后不到一年便重获二星，全仰仗行政总厨 Julien Tongourian 的精湛造诣，以及他麾下才华横溢的团队。如今，在这家餐厅焕新一周年之际，一切仍在继续演进。全新贵宾厅 La Salle à Manger 将私享飨宴的舒适感与都会奢享格调推向极致。宽敞的休息区延伸至一张黑色餐桌，可在此望见 Julien 及其团队在标志性开放式厨房剧场中的身影。有别于一般商业化的不锈钢备餐台，这片全新空间更像一个家庭厨房，洋溢着温馨而不失奢华的氛围，悄然消融了宾客与厨师之间的界限。「我们想创造独树一帜的体验， Julien 介绍：同时保留奢华质感。这个空间里每一处细节的重点都是手工艺 —— 装饰、餐盘和餐具。玻璃器皿与水晶元素皆出自莱俪，专业厨房设备则来自创立超过三个世纪的品牌 La Cornue。它们每一件都是法国艺术品。」「这里更像一间私人公寓，菜式的呈现也是如此。我们把这套上菜模式称为『法式上菜法』。」小牛胸腺、烧焗珍珠鸡、A4 和牛等主菜皆以完整「侍未切的状态呈至桌边，气势非凡。Julien 解释：

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“It’s more like a private apartment, and the food comes the same way. We actually call it service à la Française,” says the chef. Showstopper entrees like veal roast, roast guinea fowl, and A4 Wagyu rib cap are delivered tableside in an impressive uncut state. “The server presents the tray to the guest – it’s like fine dining in a luxury residence.” L’Atelier’s changes have been subtle and seamless because Tongourian believes that his mentor’s legacy is paramount. But this dutiful disciple is determined not to let the restaurant become a museum of culinary nostalgia. “My job,” he says, “is to cook just like they have in France for two centuries, with fresh ingredients, doing everything ourselves. It’s simple to run L’Atelier, because I have Robuchon’s philosophy and concepts, but I carry them out my own way. My role is not to create new things every day but maybe just to refresh, make it a bit more modern, and understand what guests want.” An anecdote illustrates Tongourian’s perpetual classic-vsnovel balancing act as steward of culinary maestro Joël Robuchon’s legacy in both Hong Kong and Macau, where he serves as executive chef of three-Michelin-star Robuchon au Dôme.

者呈上托盘展示于客人面前，就像在一座奢华宅邸中享用精致餐饮。」

L’Atelier 的演变低调而流畅，因为 Julien 深知恩师的烹饪精神至高无上。但这位心怀敬意的弟子决意不让 L’Atelier 变成一座只供追忆的烹饪博物馆。他表示：「我的工作，就是复刻法国两百年来代代相传的烹饪之道 —— 使用新鲜食材，并且每一道工序都亲力亲为。经营 L’Atelier 很简单，因为我拥有

Joël Robuchon 先生的烹饪哲学与理念，但我以自己的方式去实践。我的角色不是每天创造新菜式，而是不时打磨和焕新现有菜式，让它更具现代感，并去理解客人的需求。」一则轶事，恰好映照出 Julien 作为厨艺巨匠 Joël Robuchon 在港澳烹饪传承的守护者，同时担任澳门米其林三星餐厅天巢法国餐厅的行政总厨，如何在经典与创新之间不断取得平衡。他回忆道：「我有一位客人，一位年长的女士，每周来 L’Atelier 两三次，总问我们有什么新菜式。我告诉她有这道或那道，向她介绍一番。然后她说，听起来很有意思，不过我还是再点海螯虾吧。她问

La Salle à Manger de Joël Robuchon, the restaurant’s new über-opulent VIP room 餐厅全新打造的奢华贵宾厅La Salle à Manger de Joël Robuchon b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 105

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L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Hong Kong is the city’s only restaurant honored with the prestigious Wine Spectator Grand Award – a distinction bestowed upon fewer than 100 restaurants globally each year – which it has held continuously since 2010.

A sleek counter offers a front-row view of the dramatic open kitchen.

COURTESY OF L’ATELIER

香港 L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon 自2010年起荣获《Wine Spectator》颁发最高级别的「荣誉大奖」（Grand Award）。全球每年少于100家餐厅能获此殊荣，而它也是全港唯一得奖餐厅。

“I have one guest,” he recounts, “an elderly lady who comes to L’Atelier two or three times a week and asks, what do you have that’s new? I reply, I have this dish or that, and I tell her about it. That’s interesting, she says, but I think I’ll just have the langoustine again. She asks for something new but always orders that same favorite of hers.” Among those things that will never change is the timeless allure of the late chef’s signature creations, including Le Caviar Impérial, an aesthetic layering of crabmeat, Imperial caviar from Sologne, crustacean jelly, and symmetrically arranged dots of cauliflower cream. “Dishes like Le Caviar Impérial remain very modern,” says Tongourian. “It was created in 1980 and everyone still loves it, on social media, everywhere.” L’Atelier’s progress comes not in broad strokes but with stenciled precision. Robuchon’s well-known fondness for Japanese culture and Asian sensibility has been thoughtfully applied to the menu. “In France, they don’t know about Japanese beef,” notes Tongourian, “but here people think it’s the best. So we update the ingredient and find the best Japanese beef on the market. And we now get more than 50 percent of our vegetables from local markets. “When I first took the helm of Robuchon au Dôme, Robuchon told me, ‘This is your restaurant now, you’re the chef. What you want to do is your choice.’ So if I want to make something different, I can. But what he has given me, I want to give to the next generation. I choose to stay and represent him. Why? Because he taught me the way to cook.”

流线型吧台坐拥绝佳视角，将戏剧感十足的开放式厨房尽收眼底。

有没有新菜，却总是点同一道心头好。」在所有不变的事物中，这位已故烹饪巨匠的招牌菜始终跨越时光散发永恒魅力，其中包括「经典鱼子酱及新鲜蟹肉配龙虾果冻」：蟹肉、鱼子酱、龙虾果冻与对称排列的花椰菜奶油点，层层铺陈，赏心悦目，精致得犹如一「这道菜至今仍毫不过时。件艺术品。Julien 说：它诞生于 1980 年，但在社交媒体上，在任何地方，所有人仍为之倾倒。」

L’Atelier 的升级并非大刀阔斧的改动，而是精雕细琢的推进。Joël Robuchon 先生向来偏爱日本文化与东方审美，这一点也被巧妙地「在法国，人们不融入菜单之中。Julien 指出：认识日本和牛，但在这里，大家普遍认可那是顶级食材。所以我们会更新食材，寻找市场上最优质的日本和牛。如今，我们超过五成的蔬菜来自本地市场。」「我接手天巢法国餐厅时，Joël Robuchon 先生对我说：『这家餐厅现在属于你了，你是主厨。你想做什么由你自己决定。』所以，如果我想做点不同的，完全可以。但我想把他教给我的传给下一代。我选择留下来，代表他。为什么？因为是他教会了我烹饪之道。」 b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 107

灵感直觉

inspired instinct At two-Michelin-star Arbor, Chef Eric Räty elevates the flavors of his beloved Finnish homeland with Japanese precision and Asian ingredients.

那一口小食乍看像极了军舰寿司，但第一口便打破了 THE MORSEL looks unmistakably like a gunkan roll sushi, but 这种印象 —— 一片纤薄而酥脆的海苔脆片，淡雅的玄 the first taste undoes the impression. The “seaweed” is a crisp 米茶冰淇淋取代了米饭，而点缀其上的奢华鱼子酱则 tuile, a quenelle of genmaicha ice cream replaces the rice, and 将这口小食引向甜点的领域。在 Arbor，许多餐宴皆 the glaze is of sumptuous caviar, tipping the bite toward des以这道「玄米茶．鱼子酱」收尾，恰如其分地诠释了 sert. Many meals at Arbor end with this Genmaicha and Caviar, 主厨兼创办人 Eric Räty 的烹饪哲学 —— 这位芬兰人用 perfectly capturing the culinary philosophy of chef-owner Eric 了多年时间，将深受亚洲美学影响的北欧 Räty, a Finn who has spent years settling the AsianBY 故乡风味悄然带到香港。 influenced tastes of his Nordic home into Hong Kong. ALICE LIANG 起初，他的菜肴呈现出两种鲜明倾向： Early on, his dishes were either clearly Nordic or • 或为北欧风，或为日式格调。但随着时间 Japanese, but in time, the distinctions between them PHOTOGRAPHY BY 推移，他开始吸纳亚洲各地的风味，两者之 began to dissolve as his culinary scope broadened DAVID HARTUNG 间的界线日渐消融。在 Arbor 开业八年后 to take in flavors from across Asia. Now, eight years 的今天，那些界线已几乎消失。 into Arbor, dividing lines have all but disappeared. 风味偏向清雅。Eric 虽有使用黄油与奶油，却通 Flavors sit on the lighter side. Butter and cream are pres过酸度提亮，以贴合亚洲食客的口味。即使他对芬兰 ent but kept bright with acidity to suit Asian palates. And while 的思乡之情塑造了盘中菜式，但他最精妙的借鉴却来 Räty’s longing for Finland shapes the plate, his sharpest bor自江户前寿司吧台 —— 不是米饭，而是那些以盐、醋、 rowings come from the Edomae sushi counter – not its rice, but 时间与熟成技术，以及提炼单一食材鲜味的严谨之道。 its discipline of using salt, vinegar, timing, and aging to coax 这一点在他最新的土豆菜式中体现得淋漓尽致。 umami from a single ingredient. 这道菜直接源自他在芬兰的童年回忆 —— 那里的夏日 This is clearest in his latest potato dish, drawn straight from

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← Eric Räty

his childhood in Finland, where summer’s first potatoes are eaten with just butter and salt. Räty, however, cooks them gently before crushing them with horseradish, Japanese mustard, mayonnaise, chives, and egg and then shaping this salad into a nigiri. On top sits

kohada , cured and tuned toward the pickled herring he grew up on. It delivers two rituals in one bite. Fermentation runs quietly through the kitchen: house-fermented porcini sauce alongside miso and soy from Fukuoka and Okinawa. Yet Räty refuses to let the technique dominate. “When it lifts a dish, we use it, but never for its own sake,” he says. With Finnish ingredients scarce, he leans on equivalents like French pine shoots or forest mushrooms from Yunnan and Japan. The genmaicha and caviar dessert, which has remained nearly unchanged for years, began as a simple green tea base until kombu oil gave it depth and caviar supplied the missing savor of salt. Räty doesn’t theorize much about his food, relying simply on “the things I miss from home.” What holds Arbor together is a refined culinary temperament, the belief that the simplest plate, made with the most care, is the truest. Less a method than an instinct, it’s the taste of one place set down gently in another.

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Nordic Sushi

Langoustine

北欧寿司

海螯虾

初熟土豆仅佐以黄油与盐食用。然而，Eric 先将土豆轻柔烹煮，再拌入山葵、日式芥末、蛋黄酱、细香葱与鸡蛋，并将这道沙拉塑成握寿司之形。顶部放置经熟成处理的小鳍鱼，其风味贴近他自幼食用的腌鲱鱼。一口之间，两种饮食传统融为一体。发酵工艺在厨房中静谧流转：自家发酵的牛肝菌酱，搭配来自福冈与冲绳的味噌和酱油。然「当它能为菜式而 Eric 拒绝让这门技艺喧宾夺主：加分时，我们才会使用，但绝不为了发酵而发酵。」由于芬兰食材稀缺，他转而采用近似的替代品，如法国的松针嫩芽，或来自云南与日本的森林菌菇。那道「玄米茶．鱼子酱」多年来几乎未曾更改，最初不过是简单的绿茶基底，直至昆布油为其赋予深度，鱼子酱则补上了那一抹咸鲜之美。

Eric 并不热衷于为他的菜式构建太多理论，只依凭「那些让我怀念故乡之物」。凝聚 Arbor 的是一种精致而独特的料理气质 —— 相信用心制作的最简约菜式，才是最真实的呈现。与其说这是一种方法，不如说是一种直觉本能 —— 那是一处风土，在另一片土地上温柔生根的滋味。 b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 109

二十新生

two delicious decades Marking its twentieth year, Wing Lei continues to present its exquisitely crafted, ever-evolving Cantonese cuisine.

2006 年，永利澳门开幕，中餐厅永利轩同步诞生。 W I T H T H E 20 06 O P E N I N G of Wynn Macau, acclaimed Chinese 自 2010 年摘下首颗米其林星后，气派非凡的永 restaurant Wing Lei was born. Michelin-starred since 2010, the opu利轩近年更稳守二星荣衔，同时亦长居《福布斯 lent venue in recent years has maintained its two-Michelin-star status 旅游指南》五星评级之列。 every year, while also consistently receiving the prestigious Five-Star 人称「德师傅」的永利轩行政总厨陈德光， Restaurant rating from Forbes Travel Guide. Chef Chan Tak Kwong, 见证永利澳门二十年的成长历程。他 fondly known as Chef Tak, has witnessed the hotel’s ongoBY 生于内地，年少赴中国香港学习粤 ing journey of growth. Born in mainland China, he came to JOYCE KWOK 菜入行，其后获邀到日本工作；回国 Hong Kong as a young man to master the art of Cantonese 后先后于北京、上海、深圳等地的餐 cuisine and was later invited to work in Japan. On his 厅历练。他最终于 2006 年来到澳门，随酒店开 return, he worked at restaurants in Beijing, Shanghai, Shenzhen, and 张加入永利轩，自此扎根下来。 beyond, finally arriving in Macau in 2006 for the opening of Wing Lei, 他擅长选取世界各地时令食材，逐一打磨 which he helms to this day. 点心、烧味、汤羹、海鲜等传统粤菜工序，并以 Chef Tak excels in selecting seasonal ingredients from around 精致摆盘重新演绎，为经典菜式赋予现代质感。 the world and in meticulously refining every aspect of traditional 德师傅对食材本味的追求，从餐厅两道招 Cantonese cuisine, from dim sum and roast meats to soups, broths,

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TASTING NOTES

← Chef Chan Tak Kwong 陈德光师傅

COURTESY OF WYNN MACAU (3)

←← Steamed Egg White with Grouper Fillet, 30-Year-Aged Tangerine Peel, and Vintage Hua Diao

↓

三十年陈皮蛋白蒸星斑

豆浆千层鱼蓉腐皮夹

and seafood. He thoughtfully reinterprets the classics with a contemporary sensibility and visually artful plating. His faithfulness to authentic flavors is evident in two of the restaurant’s signature dishes. Steamed Egg White with Grouper Fillet, 30-Year-Aged Tangerine Peel, and Vintage Hua Diao features fish sourced from the South China Sea and treasured ingredients that stand the test of time: premium Xinghui tangerine peel and aged Hua Diao wine. “Thirty years,” notes the chef, “is when the tangerine peel has just reached true maturity and can perfectly support the depth of the Hua Diao wine.” With the rising steam, the fragrance of tangerine peel and the wine’s richness infuse the grouper. The silky egg white beneath absorbs the essence, allowing layers of freshness and aroma to unfold. Steamed Layered Bean Curd Skin with Fish Paste in Soy Bean Soup may appear like a humble, nostalgic dim sum. But closer inspection reveals a true labor of love: thirty-two layers of handcrafted bean curd skin are interleaved with hand-whipped fresh dace fish paste steeped in freshly prepared soy milk, allowing the bean fragrance to subtly permeate every nook. Chef Tak reveals the secret to its success: “The thickness of layers, the texture of the fish paste, the concentration of the soy milk – every detail must be precisely controlled without the slightest deviation.” Twenty years on, and Chef Tak and Wing Lei have never stopped their steady advance. Seasons turn, ingredients change, and the menus follow suit. But the finest flavor, as always, comes shining through on every plate.

Steamed Layered Bean Curd Skin with Fish Paste in Soy Bean Soup

牌菜中可见一斑。「三十年陈皮蛋白蒸星斑」特意选用南海东星斑，以及经得起时间考验的食材，例如新会三十年陈皮及陈年花雕一同烹制。他说：「三十年，陈皮才刚好真正熟成，承托住花雕的醇厚。」蒸气升腾，陈皮香与酒香渗进鱼肉；嫩滑的蛋白在底下，饱吸所有精华，让鲜味和香气层层绽放。「豆浆千层鱼蓉腐皮夹」这道看似寻常的怀旧点心，在细看之下才晓得全是匠心与功夫：三十二层的手工腐皮与手打鲜鲮鱼蓉逐层交叠，浸泡于鲜磨浓豆浆之中，让豆香缓缓渗入每层腐皮。德师傅道出美味由来：「每一层腐皮的厚薄、鱼蓉的弹性、豆浆的浓度，都必须精准掌控，分毫不能偏差。」二十年过去，德师傅和永利轩的脚步从未停下：四季流转，食材更迭，菜式也随之变换；而最好的味道，始终体现在每一道菜里。 b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 111

PRESENTED BY FRANCIACORTA PDO WINES & MARENNES OLÉRON P GI OYSTERS

海洋之味

杯中酒意

sea and sparkle Chefs Jaakko Sorsa and Jim Löfdahl present three dishes pairing the subtle sweetness of Marennes Oléron PGI oysters with the elegant effervescence of Franciacorta PDO wines.

BY ANDREA LO • PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

T H R O U G H A V I B R A N T D I A LO G U E between Atlantic salinity and Italian freshness, Ocean Table’s executive chef Jaakko Sorsa and Embla’s founder and chef Jim Löfdahl recently demonstrated how premium products protected by European quality designations of origin can unite to create unforgettable dining experiences. Marennes Oléron PGI oysters, acclaimed by top chefs worldwide, are cultivated only in a well-defined region along the west coast of France and are matured in natural basins, old saltmarshes called claires, that fill with the rhythm of the tides. Franciacorta PDO wines, produced exclusively in the Franciacorta area of the province of Brescia, Lombardy, are made according to the metodo classico that involves secondary fermentation in the bottle. They are produced in a range of styles, including Franciacorta, Franciacorta Satèn, and Franciacorta Rosé, and may also be released as Millesimato or Riserva after longer aging on the lees. Of the four qualities of Marennes Oléron PGI oysters, the Fine de Claire is less fleshy, with refined taste and superior shell quality. Marennes Oléron Fine de Claire Verte, identified by its naturally green gills, has a balanced, subtle marine taste. Marennes Oléron Pousse en Claire is fullbodied with firm texture and a sweet, lingering flavor. And the meaty Marennes Oléron Spéciale de Claire, perfect for cooking, offers firm texture and ideal balance between sweetness and brininess. Sorsa, inspired by the Hong Kong classic of typhoon shelter crab, masterminds Typhoon Shelter XO Oyster by combining a pan-seared

Spéciale de Claire with XO sauce, dried shrimp, crispy garlic crumbs, and red chili threads. He swaps spring onions for chives, crowns the dish with chili threads, and adds his own sea-urchin dipping “mayo,” a creamy sauce laced with uni and a suggestion of wasabi and sriracha. Sorsa finds that Marennes Oléron PGI oysters pair especially beautifully with the sparkling refinement of Franciacorta PDO wines. Typically

caption 或

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PRESENTED BY FRANCIACORTA PDO WINES & MARENNES OLÉRON P GI OYSTERS

made from chardonnay, pinot nero, pinot bianco, and erbamat grapes, they are an eloquent expression of the region’s unique terroir, whose limestone soils and cool lake climate give them elegantly balanced salinity, minerality, and acidity – the qualities that, says Sorsa, an oyster most needs from a wine. “With my typhoon shelter dish,” he notes, “the bubbles and acidity of either a Franciacorta Brut or Franciacorta Rosé Brut cool the chili and lift the wok oil, while the yeasty, red-fruit notes of the rosé bridge into the XO’s smoky umami.” Sorsa’s Oyster Rossini is a reimagining of the famous tournedos Rossini beef dish. Spéciale de Claire stays plump and juicy in the pan and has a firmer texture and a milder, nuttier flavor, without the salty iodine edge that can dominate richer pairings. Sorsa panfries the oyster, lightly dusted with flour, to build a delicate crust and then layers it with the richness of foie gras and the dark luxury of truffle, allowing each element to amplify the other. He pairs it with a Franciacorta Riserva Extra Brut. As single-vintage wines of especially high quality, Franciacorta Riserva wines are required to spend at least sixty months on the lees. “The Riserva’s lees-driven richness meets the foie and truffle,” notes Sorsa, “and its acidity and low dosage cut the fattiness while accenting the oyster’s clean taste.” Löfdahl’s dish, Poached Spéciale de Claire, is cooked at 63.4˚C, a temperature that minimizes bacterial risk while merely kissing the oyster’s delicate ocean freshness with heat. The dish’s theme, he says, is “sea and forest,” a Nordic-leaning flavor profile that pairs the mollusk’s sweetness with juniperberry-infused cream and notes of Douglas fir in the form of aromatic oil. Gently cooked in the protection of its own juices, the oyster stays supple and clean-tasting. It is paired with a Franciacorta Rosé, whose light, fruity elements complement the dish’s juniper and fir and whose acidity and minerality elegantly lift the oyster, cream, and caviar.

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Ocean Table 行政主厨 Jaakko Sorsa 与 Embla 餐厅创始人兼主厨 Jim Löfdahl 展开了一场关于大西洋咸鲜风味与意大利清新口感的精彩对话，展示了两种受欧洲原产地质量认证保护的顶级食材，如何携手打造令人难忘的餐饮体验。备受全球顶尖厨师推崇的 Marennes Oléron PGI 生蚝，仅产自法国西海岸特定区域，并在名为「claires」的天然古老盐沼池中熟成 —— 这些池塘随潮汐涨落而自然注水。

Franciacorta PDO 起泡酒产自伦巴第大区布雷西亚省（Brescia）的 Franciacorta 地区，采用包含瓶内二次发酵工序的「传统法」（metodo classico）酿制。其酒款风格多样，包括 Franciacorta、Franciacorta Satèn 和 Franciacorta Rosé，亦可经由更长时间的酒泥陈酿后，以年份酒（Millesimato）或珍藏酒（Riserva）的名义推出。在 Marennes Oléron PGI 生蚝的四个等级中，Fine de Claire 肉质相对较瘦，口感细腻，壳质优良； Marennes Oléron Fine de Claire Verte 以天然绿色鳃部为特征，风味平衡，带有微妙的海洋气息； Marennes

Oléron Pousse en Claire 肉质丰厚，质地紧实，回味甘甜悠长；而肉质饱满、紧致的 Marennes Oléron Spéciale de Claire 则非常适合烹饪，在甜味与咸鲜味之间达到了理想平衡。Jaakko 从香港经典名菜「避风塘炒蟹」中汲取灵感，构思并创作了「避风塘 XO 酱生蚝」：将香煎过的 Spéciale de

Claire 生蚝，与 XO 酱、虾米、酥脆蒜蓉及红辣椒丝巧妙结合。他用细香葱取代了普通青葱，在顶部点缀辣椒丝，并搭配自制的海胆蘸酱 —— 这是一款融合了海胆风味，以及些许芥末和是拉差辣酱的奶油质感酱汁。

Jaakko 发现，Marennes Oléron PGI 产区的生蚝与精致细腻的 Franciacorta PDO 起泡酒堪称绝配。这类起泡酒通常由霞多丽、黑皮诺、白皮诺和厄芭玛葡萄酿制，完美诠释了该地区独特的风土条件：石灰岩土壤与凉爽的湖畔气候，赋予了酒液优雅平衡的咸度、矿物质感和酸度 —— 「在搭配我的『避 Jaakko 认为，这正是搭配生蚝最需要的特质。他说：风塘生蚝』时，无论是 Franciacorta Brut 还是 Franciacorta Rosé Brut，其气泡和酸度都能缓解辣椒的刺激感，并化解炒菜的油腻；同时，Rosé

Brut 中的酵母与红色浆果风味，又能与 XO 酱那烟熏般的鲜味巧妙衔接。」 Jaakko 创作的「罗西尼生蚝」是对经典菜式「罗西尼牛排」的致敬与重塑。Spéciale de Claire 生蚝在煎制过程中能保持丰盈多汁及质地紧实，风味温和且带有坚果香气，不会带有掩盖配料风味的强烈的碘味或咸味。Jaakko 将生蚝裹上薄薄的面粉煎制，形成一层细腻的酥皮，随后将其与浓郁的鹅肝及奢华的黑松露搭配，使各种食材的风味相得益彰。他为这道菜搭配了 Franciacorta Riserva Extra Brut。作为品质极高的单一年份酒，Franciacorta Riserva 必须经过至少 60 个月的酒泥陈酿。「Riserva 起泡酒因酒泥陈酿而产生的丰富层次感，与鹅肝、 Jaakko 说道：松露的风味相互辉映。同时，其酸度和极低的补糖量既能化解油脂的腻感，又能突显生蚝纯净鲜美的本味。」

Jim 创作的「慢煮 Spéciale de Claire 生蚝」的烹饪温度设定在 63.4˚C—— 这一温度既能将细菌风险降至最低，又能仅以微热轻柔唤醒生蚝细腻的海洋鲜味。他说，这道菜的主题是「海洋与森林」，呈现出带有北欧风味的口感组合：将贝类的鲜甜与杜松子风味的奶油、散发芳香的道格拉斯冷杉精油巧妙融合。生蚝在自身汁液的包裹下温和烹制，保持了柔嫩的质地与纯净的口感。搭配这道菜的是一款 Franciacorta Rosé

Brut，其轻盈的果香与菜肴中的杜松子及冷杉气息相呼应，而酒液的酸度和矿物质感则优雅地提升了生蚝、奶油与鱼子酱的风味层次。

Poached Spéciale de Claire paired with Franciacorta Wine 慢煮Spéciale de Claire生蚝配Franciacorta PDO起泡酒

P R E S E N T E D B Y T H E R I T Z - C A R LT O N S H A N G H A I , P U D O N G

“ I N E VER R E ALLY THOUGHT I would be fortunate enough to live and work in China,” says Chef Sam Anderson. “And then this opportunity came up.” The well-traveled Anderson moved to New York City at eighteen to attend the prestigious Culinary Institute of America and spend his weekends interning in Michelin-starred restaurants with some of the city’s best chefs. “Seeing the level of skill, how they worked – the precision, the intensity – was daunting,” he recalls. “But the first time I went into one of these kitchens, I felt like I was meant to be there.” During his time in New York, Anderson worked alongside the renowned Daniel Boulud, Eric Ripert, and José Andrés, mastering French, Italian, Japanese, and contemporary American cuisines. In 2023, Anderson became executive sous chef at The Ritz-Carlton Grand Cayman, where he overBY saw a portfolio of restaurants and managed a large staff. “That experience made me understand the LUCY MORGAN importance of building teams. What I enjoy most is watching young people learn and have their own successes.” The Ritz-Carlton Shanghai, Pudong, has embarked on an exciting refresh of its restaurants and event spaces, where Anderson oversees the 上海浦东丽思卡尔顿酒店的新任行政总 hotel’s four dining venues as well as its legendary banqueting operations. 「我从没想过自己厨 Sam Anderson 说： Flair Rooftop Restaurant & Bar offers elegant interiors and panoramic views 有幸在中国生活和工作，直到这个机会出 of the Bund waterfront and the striking city skyline. Cantonese restaurant 现了。」 Jin Xuan has held one Michelin star for nine years. Scena di Angelo tempts 足迹遍布全球的 Sam 十八岁时搬到 guests with refined contemporary Italian cuisine. And Aura Lounge, in a 纽约，进入享有盛誉的美国烹饪学院学 nod to the city’s historic French area, serves intriguing French classics with 习，周末则在多家米其林星级餐厅，跟 Chinese accents. 随纽约的顶尖厨师实习。他回忆道：「看 Anderson has settled into life in Shanghai, enjoying exploring its mar到他们的技艺水平和工作方式 —— 那种 kets and restaurants and discovering new ingredients. “When I visited for 精准度、专注度 —— 令人不免感到压力。 the first time, the team took me out into the city, and I had this gut feel但第一次走进这些专业厨房时，我就意 ing again – like I did the first time I stepped into a kitchen in New York. I 识到我就属于这里。」在纽约期间，Sam thought, this is the right time in your life, this is the place you belong.” 曾与 Daniel Boulud、Eric Ripert 和 José Andrés 等名厨共事，掌握了法式、意式、日式及新派美式菜系的技艺。

2023 年，Sam 出任大开曼岛丽思卡尔顿酒店的行政副总厨，负责管理旗下餐厅及一支规模庞大的餐饮团队。「那段经历让我领会到组建团队的重要意义。我最享受的是看着年轻人成长，并取得属于自己的成功。」上海浦东丽思卡尔顿酒店即将迎来焕然一新的餐厅和宴会场地。Sam 在此负责酒店内四家餐厅及酒吧的日常运营，同时掌管宴会餐饮服务。Flair 顶层餐厅酒吧环境雅致，可饱览外滩滨江及璀璨城市天际线。主打粤菜的金轩中餐厅已连续九年蝉联米其林一星。Scena di Angelo 以精致的当代意大利美食征服食客味蕾。而 Aura 酒廊则致敬上海历史悠久的法式历史街区，呈献融入中式风情的经典法式佳肴。如今 Sam 已逐渐融入上海的生活，闲暇时总爱探索当地的市集与餐厅，发掘新的食材。「第一次来上海的时候，团队带我游览这座城市，那一刻我再次有了那种直觉 —— 就像第一次踏进纽约的厨 Shanghainese Bouillabaisse 上海马赛鱼汤

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房时一样。我告诉自己，这正是你生命中合适的时机，这里就是你的归宿。」

此心安处

a sense of belonging Recently appointed Executive Chef Sam Anderson of The Ritz-Carlton Shanghai, Pudong, tells TK how his global culinary adventures have brought him to the place he calls home.

Sam Anderson

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CELEBRATION

LEADING

LIGHTS

OF THE

LIST

As Asia’s 50 Best Bars marks its eleventh year, TK talks to old pros and rising stars behind establishments at the top of the ranks. BY NICOLE SLATER

BETWEEN SKY AND EARTH | TK |

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# M AC A U ’ S W Y N N PA L AC E , official host of Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2026, opened its doors once again to the annual event, welcoming legions of industry players and bartender royalty to a celebration of the region’s most acclaimed and innovative drinking spots. This year’s energetic ceremony saw fourteen bars entering the list for the first time, including Manila’s Problem Child and Hong Kong’s MIUS. Bangkok’s Bar Sathorn received the Nikka Highest Climber Award, jumping to No. 17, and one of the region’s favorite speakeasies, Hope & Sesame Guangzhou, claimed the top spot. A decade after opening, Hope & Sesame Guangzhou cofounders Andrew Ho and Bastien Ciocca are not only carrying the No. 1 title but also rate as the first bar outside of Hong Kong or Singapore to be awarded first place in the list’s history. “It feels unreal,” says Ho. “Nothing prepares you for this moment. You can wish, but you never expect to win. We’re so excited.” As the bar celebrates this milestone year, the founders look back at their accomplishments over the past decade. With seventeen iterations and a second flagship opening in Shenzhen in 2020, the period has been monumental for the team. “Every year after the 50 Best awards, no matter what the result is, we always celebrate locally with a team dinner, away from all the after-parties. It’s a wholesome moment and helps us bring the energy back to the bar.”

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HOPE & SESAME 庙前冰室

GUAN GZ H OU 广州

作为 2026 年「亚洲 50 最佳酒吧」官方主办目的地合作伙伴，澳门永利皇宫再次敞开大门，迎接众多业内人士与顶尖调酒师，共同庆祝这一汇聚了本地区最受赞誉、最具创新精神酒吧的盛会。今年的颁奖典礼气氛热闹，共有 14 家酒吧首次跻身榜单，其中包括马尼拉的 Problem Child 和香港的 MIUS。曼谷的 Bar Sathorn 荣获「Nikka 最佳进步奖」，名次跃升至第 17 位；广州庙前冰室是本地区备受喜爱的隐藏酒吧，此次更一举摘得桂冠。开业十年之际，广州庙前冰室的联合创始人

Andrew Ho 和 Bastien Ciocca 不仅荣膺榜首，更成为该榜单历史上首家香港或新加坡以外地区的冠军酒吧。「感觉太不真实了。没有任何事能让你 Andrew 表示：为这一刻做好准备。你可以心怀憧憬，但从未真正预期过会获胜。我们感到无比兴奋。」在具有里程碑意义的这一年，两位创始人回顾了过去十年的成就。从 17 次酒单更迭，到 2020 年在深圳开设第二家旗舰店，这段历程对团队而言意义非凡。

ASIA’S 50 BEST BARS 2026

ZEST S EO U L 首尔

Hope & Sesame

Guangzhou

Zest

Seoul

Bar Leone

Hong Kong

Dry Wave Cocktail Studio

Bangkok

MO Bar Shenzhen

Shenzhen

Bar Us

Bangkok

Lennon's

Bangkok

Boilermaker

Goa

Jigger & Pony

Singapore

Obsidian Bar

Shenzhen

Modernhaus

Jakarta

Nutmeg & Clove

Singapore

Alice

Seoul

Vender

Taichung

Cosmo Pony

Jakarta

Offtrack

Singapore

Bar Sathorn

Bangkok

Soka

Bengaluru

Pony Up

Shanghai

BKK Social Club

Bangkok

Carrots Bar

Jakarta

Gokan

Hong Kong

Punch Room Tokyo

Tokyo

Coa

Hong Kong

Opium

Bangkok

Virtù

Tokyo

CMYK

Changsha

Ralph's Bar

Chengdu

Smoke & Bitters

Hiriketiya

Bar Spirit Forward

Bengaluru

G.O.D

Bangkok

Three X Co

Kuala Lumpur

Bar Cham

Seoul

Workshop14

Hanoi

To Infinity & Beyond

Taipei

Mius

Hong Kong

Argo

Hong Kong

Bar Trigona

Kuala Lumpur

Bar Libre

Tokyo

The Golden Tooth

Jakarta

The Han-Jia

Tainan

M+MS Bar

Seoul

Origin Bar

Singapore

Problem Child

Makati

The St. Regis Bar (Macau)

Macau

The Hudson Rooms

Hanoi

Montana

Hong Kong

Aqua Bar

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Penicillin

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Tiao

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Ho and Ciocca both understand the importance of building a solid community and aim to be a beacon to other bars across mainland China. “There are so many great cocktail cities that no one has heard of. Our role is to shine a spotlight on the whole industry and showcase bars that may not be so well-known on social media but are doing incredible things and have great stories.” With Asia’s 50 Best’s latest regulations that now require bars to receive votes from at least two different countries across the region before they are put forward for contention, there may be many more bars across China and in remote locations entering the list. “Each year we’re delighted to introduce new cocktail hubs in Asia,” says Director of Content & Creative for 50 Best Emma Sleight. “At the start, the focus was on major cities with already established cocktail scenes, like Hong Kong and Singapore, but now we’re seeing much smaller places and hidden gems on the list, including this year’s wonderful feature of Workshop 14 in Hanoi.” Asia’s 50 Best Bars seeks to highlight every segment of the industry, from tony hotel bars to local neighborhood watering holes and ocean-side beach clubs, as well as the talented teams behind them. In recent years, female bartenders have been making their mark and are increasingly recognized as motivational figures in what has been a predominantly male-led industry. One shining example is Shelley Tai, who received this year’s Altos Bartenders’ Bartender Award for her empathetic mentorship and dedication to every bar she steps behind. “Rather than focusing on gender,” says Sleight, “we look to celebrate everyone, not only showcasing them professionally but also giving them an opportunity to share their stories. Shelley’s win this year is an incredible achievement and a great inspiration to women in the industry.” In advance of every award ceremony, the 50 Best team hosts an industry chat known as 50 Best Connects, where women and leaders in the industry can freely discuss career growth and tackle shared professional

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「每年的『亚洲 50 最佳酒吧』颁奖典礼结束后，无论结果如何，我们总会避开各种庆功派对，只在当地来一场团队庆祝聚餐。这样的温馨时光很美好，能帮助我们为酒吧重新焕发活力。」两人深知建立稳固社群的重要性，并矢志成为中国内地其他酒吧的标杆。「有许多出色的鸡尾酒之城鲜为人知。我们的使命是让聚光灯照亮整个行业，展示那些在社交媒体上或许名气不大，却在不断创造非凡成就、讲述精彩故事的酒吧。」随着「亚洲 50 最佳酒吧」最新评选规则的实施 —— 酒吧必须获得来自该地区至少两个不同国家的投票方可入围 —— 更多中国各地乃至偏远地区的酒吧有望跻身榜单。

50 最佳内容及创意总监 Emma Sleight 说：「我们很高兴每年都能在亚洲发掘新的鸡尾酒胜地。起初，我们的关注点主要集中在香港和新加坡等鸡尾酒文化已相当成熟的大都市；但如今，榜单上出现了更多规模较小、尚待发掘的宝藏酒吧，例如今年」上榜的河内 Workshop 14。「亚洲 50 最佳酒吧」致力于展现该行业的各个层面，从高端酒店酒吧到街坊邻里的小酒馆，再到海滨沙滩俱乐部，同时也关注这些场所背后才华横溢的团队。近年来，女性调酒师崭露头角，在这个长期由男性主导的行业中，她们正日益成为鼓舞人心的力量。Shelley Tai 便是一个杰出代表，她凭借充满同理心的指

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THREE CENTS BEST NEW OPENING AWARD 34

WORKSHOP 14 HANOI 河内

ASIA’S 50 BEST BARS SPECIAL AWARDS ROKU INDUSTRY ICON

NIKKA HIGHEST CLIMBER

KE TEL ONE SUSTAINABLE

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AWARD

BAR AWARD

DESIGN AWARD

OPENING AWARD

Indra Kantono, cofounder of Jigger & Pony

Bar Sathorn

Bar Us

MIUS

Workshop14

Bangkok

Hong Kong

Hanoi

MICHTER’S ART OF

DISARONNO HIGHEST

SIE TE MISTERIOS BEST

C AMPARI ONE TO WATCH

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HOSPITALIT Y AWARD

NEW ENTRY AWARD

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THE LIST AWARD

Smoke & Bitters

Lennon’s

Kinsman

Hats Bar

Hiriketiya

Bangkok

Hong Kong

Jakarta

Singapore

Coa

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COA HONG KONG 香港

导精神，以及对每一份调酒工作的全情投入，荣获今年的「Altos Bartenders’ Bartender Award」。「我们关注的重点并 Emma 表示：非性别，而是颂赞每一位从业者；我们除了展示他们的专业风采，也提供平台让他们分享个人故事。

challenges. Through this interaction and support, there’s been a positive shift in the industry as women hold more leadership roles across Asia and internationally. “I think the goal should be not just representation but normalization,” says Senior Bartender Tamaryn Cooper of Dry Wave Cocktail Studio. “I’d love to reach a point where people aren’t surprised to see a woman running a top bar or winning a competition. The industry should continue to create opportunities based on talent and leadership so that everyone feels like they have a place.” Having spent the last seven years mastering her craft and working in some of Asia’s most popular bars, Cooper has taken the Bangkok bar scene by storm, receiving three awards in Diageo’s World Class Thailand 2026. “I signed up to challenge myself,” she says, “and the whole experience reminded me why I fell in love with bartending. There’s so much creativity in this region that’s reflected on this list, and I hope the next few years will be about sharing those ideas and stories, while still celebrating what makes each city unique.” Wing Lei Bar’s very own Lead Bartender Kim Liu helped hundreds of bartenders manage and prepare for their 50 Best shifts over the last two years during the award weeks and ceremony at Macau’s Wynn Palace. She was named Campari Red Hand HKMO Champion in 2025 for her cocktail Trainwreck, a toast to serendipitous

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Shelley 今年的获奖不仅是一项了不起的成就，更激励了业内众多的女性。」在每届颁奖典礼前夕，50 最佳团队都会举办名为「50 Best

Connects」的行业交流活动，让女性从业者以及行业领袖能够畅谈职业发展，并共同探讨行业面临的挑战。通过这种互动与支持，行业正发生积极的变化，越来越多的女性在亚洲乃至全球范围内担任领导职务。曼谷酒吧 Dry Wave Cocktail Studio 的高级调酒师 Tamaryn 「我认为目标不应仅仅 Cooper 说：是提高女性的代表性，更要实现常态化。我期待看到这样的一天：人们对于女性主理顶级酒吧或赢得调

CELEBRATION

NIKKA HIGHEST CLIMBER AWARD 17

BAR SATHORN BANGKOK 曼谷

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DISARONNO HIGHEST NEW ENTRY AWARD 7

LENNON’S BANGKOK 曼谷

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KE TEL ONE SUSTAINABLE BAR AWARD

Bar Us

MICHTER’S ART OF HOSPITALIT Y AWARD

Smoke & Bitters Hiriketiya ≠ SIE TE MISTERIOS BEST COCKTAIL MENU

Kinsman Hong Kong C AMPARI ONE TO WATCH

Hats Bar Jakarta

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mistakes that turn into masterpieces. As the first bartender in Macau to win the competition, Kim is gratified to witness China’s ever-evolving bar scene receive the recognition it deserves. “The power of local storytelling has grown a lot, from the guest’s perspective,” she notes. “People have become more aware of what a bar is about and open to learning about the story, the style, and the overall vibe behind it.” As trends come and go throughout Asia’s vast and varied bar and cocktail scene, what is emerging as perhaps the most enduring priority is community, exemplified each year by so many bartenders and industry professionals coming together at the 50 Best awards to celebrate one another’s successes. “We’re noticing that the industry as a whole is nourishing more careers,” says Sleight. “And with bars adopting sustainable work ethics and focusing on the importance of looking after the people behind them, things are only going to improve even more over the next decade.”

MIUS HONG KONG 香港

酒比赛不再感到惊讶。行业应继续以才华与领导力为本创造机会，让每个人都能找到属于自己的位置。」过去七年，Tamaryn 潜心磨练技艺，足迹遍布亚洲多家热门酒吧，如今已在曼谷酒吧界崭露头角，并在帝亚吉欧（Diageo）举办的「World Class Thailand 「我报名参赛是 2026」大赛中斩获三项大奖。她说：为了挑战自我，整个过程让我重温了当初爱上调酒的初心。这份榜单充分展现了本地区蕴含的无限创意；我希望在未来几年里，我们能继续分享这些理念与故事，同时颂扬每一座城市独有的魅力。」

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CELEBRATION

KETEL ONE SUSTAINABLE BAR AWARD 6

BAR US BANGKOK 曼谷

在过去两年的「亚洲 50 最佳酒吧」颁奖周及典礼期间，澳门永利皇宫永利吧的首席调酒师 Kim Liu 协助数百位调酒师统筹并筹备 50 最佳相关的客座调酒活动。她（意为凭借名为「Trainwreck」「意外事故」）的鸡尾酒荣获

2025 年金巴利红手调酒大赛（Campari Red Hand）港澳赛区冠军；这款酒旨在致敬那些化「意外失误」为「传世杰作」的奇妙际遇。作为首位赢得该赛事的澳门调酒师，Kim 很高兴看到中国不断发展的酒吧行业获得了应有的认可。她指出：「从客人的角度来看，本土故事的感染力已显著增强。人们对酒吧的内涵有了更深的理解，也更愿意去了解酒吧背后的故事、风格以及整体氛围。」尽管亚洲酒吧与鸡尾酒行业潮流更迭频繁，但「社群」这一理念正成为最持久的核心价值 —— 每年「亚洲 50 最佳酒吧」颁奖典礼，都见证了众多调酒师与行业专业人士齐聚一堂，共同庆祝彼此的成就，这正是该理念的生「我们注动写照。Emma 说：意到整个行业正在孕育更多的职业发展机遇。随着酒吧纷纷践行可持续的工作理念，并愈发重视对从业人员的关怀，未来十年，行业前景必将更加光明。」

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MICHTER’S ART OF HOSPITALITY AWARD 29

SMOKE & BITTERS H I R I K E T I YA 希里凯蒂亚

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同行之力社群精神

peer power Shelley Tai, winner of the Altos Bartenders’ Bartender Award 2026, talks to TK about the importance of community, mentoring, and leadership. 在餐饮款待的世界里，创意、协作与勤奋是成 IN THE WORLD OF HOSPITALIT Y, where creativity, collaboration, 功的基石，而同行的认可，则显得格外有力。香 and hard work are essential elements for success, peer recognition 港社区酒吧 Mius 的创办人 Shelley Tai，刚获颁 feels uniquely powerful. Shelley Tai, founder of Mius, a neighborhood 2026 年「亚洲 50 最佳酒吧」的特别个人荣誉 bar in Hong Kong, was recently honored with the Altos Bartenders’ 「这 Altos Bartenders’ Bartender。Shelley 表示： Bartender Award 2026, a special individual accolade from Asia’s 50 Best 份肯定让我深感谦卑。我们每天都在努力做得 Bars. “It’s incredibly humbling,” says Tai. “We spend every day trying 更好一点 —— 更好的酒、更好的服务、更好的款 to be a little better, with better drinks, better service, better hospitality, 待体验，以及为团队与客人创造更好的空间。因 and a better place for our team and guests. So, when your peers decide 此，当同行们认为你的付出确实有意 that what you’ve done has mattered, it means a lot.” 义时，这份肯定格外珍贵。」 Decided solely by bartenders from the venues feaBY 这个奖项仅由入选 2026 年「亚 tured on the Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2026 list and the 51-100 LUCY MORGAN 洲 50 最佳酒吧」榜单及 51 至 100 名 extended list, the award is not restricted by rigid criteria 延伸榜单的酒吧调酒师投票选出，没有固定的评 for choosing the winner. Instead, voting bartenders are encour选标准，而是鼓励投票者从多个方面考量候选人： aged to look at the qualities of the individual in terms of exceptional 卓越的待客之道、在团队与业界的领导力、对鸡 hospitality, leadership within their teams and the wider industry, 尾酒文化的贡献，以及正向的影响力与传承精神。 meaningful contribution to cocktail culture, and positive influence Mius 在 2025 年 9 月开幕时，团队中有些成 and mentorship. When Tai launched Mius in September 2025, some

of her team were new to bartending. But since then, she has seen incredible progress among the staff, who are now mixing and serving drinks with confidence. “Our job is not only about creating great drinks,” she says. “It’s also about helping people grow. Seeing someone achieve things they never thought they could is probably one of the most rewarding parts of what I do. “We’ve always tried to be open with our ideas, collaborate with other venues, and create opportunities for younger bartenders to learn and develop. The hospitality industry grows when people share knowledge and raise standards together.” Tai remarks about her award, “It reminds me to keep improving, keep contributing, and keep supporting the people around me.”

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员还是调酒新手。然而短短数月，Shelley 已见证他们惊人的进步 —— 如今他们能自信满满地调酒与上酒。她说：「我们的工作不只是调出好喝的酒，也是在帮助他人成长。看见一个人做到他们从未想过自己能做到的事，大概是我工作中最有成就感的时刻。」「我们一直尝试保持开放的态度，与其他酒吧合作，为年轻调酒师创造学习与成长的机会。款待业的成长在于人们分享知识、彼此支持，并且能够共同提升水准。」「它提醒我要继谈及这份奖项，Shelley 说：续进步、继续贡献、继续支持身边的人。」

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PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, SHENZHEN

四艺成色调色入酒

COLOR FIRST At MO Bar, Mandarin Oriental, Shenzhen, Tiger Chang and his team find the colors for sixteen new drinks in four Chinese crafts.

Tiger Chang, Director of Beverage and Head Bartender of MO Bar 酒水总监兼首席调酒师张明儒

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The menu itself uses the four materials. 实体酒单亦用了四种工艺材质进行印刷。

PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, SHENZHEN

「好玩的地方在于你要按这里。」MO Bar 酒水 “TH E FUN PART is that you press here,” says Tiger 总监兼首席调酒师张明儒说道。这款调酒名 Chang, MO Bar director of beverage and head bar，呈现出敦煌壁画般的绿为「天水碧」（Jade） tender. The drink is Jade 天水碧 , the green of the 色；考虑到背景装饰是「飞天观音」像，「我 Dunhuang murals, and with the object behind it a 们想要那种云雾缭绕的感觉。」当被问及最 flying Guanyin, “we wanted the feeling of clouds.” 爱哪杯时，一位调酒师选了「天水碧」，因为「它 Asked for a favorite, one of the bartenders picks 有烟雾效果。」 Jade, “the one with the smoke effect.” 这是「色彩中国 2.0」酒单上十六款特 It’s one of sixteen drinks on Colors of China 2.0, 调之一。整份酒单分为四个篇章， a menu in four chapters named for crafts: BY 分别以一项中国传统工艺命名： Weaving, Dye, Lacquer, and Glaze. “In MARK HAMMONS 织造、染艺、漆艺、釉彩。张明 this edition, we wanted color, especially • 儒介绍：「在这一版酒单中，我们 traditional Chinese color, to come first,” PHOTOGRAPHY BY 希望色彩 —— 尤其是中国传统色 says Chang. “The crafts support it, and DAVID HARTUNG 彩 —— 成为主角。工艺是色彩的 the cocktails come after that.” Each drink 载体，鸡尾酒则是呈现形式。」每 is the color of a selected object made by 一款特调的颜色，皆取自该项工艺所成之物。 one of the four crafts. “Then we look at which city 「我们会追溯每项工艺来自哪个城市，并选用 the craft comes from and make the cocktail with 当地的食材来做这杯鸡尾酒。」 ingredients from that place.” 以「鎏金」（Solar）为例，其色调呼应了 Solar 鎏金 , for example, mirrors the yellow hue

of an imperial dragon robe woven in Suzhou kesi silk, and its apricot, white peach, osmanthus, and Biluochun tea come from around Suzhou. It arrives in a box modeled on those that held the Qing emperors’ seals. In July, when the original Colors of China was still on the tables and the new menu was not yet in use, MO Bar rose from No. 21 to No. 5 on Asia’s 50 Best Bars list, higher than any other hotel bar. “And we keep working at it,” Chang says. In September, the bar made The World’s 50 Best Bars 2026 Extended List for the first time, at No. 60.

苏州缂丝织造的皇家龙袍上的金黄色；酒中使用的杏子、白桃、桂花和碧螺春茶均产自苏州周边地区。它被盛放在一只仿清代帝王印玺盒的匣子里。七月，当「色彩中国」的初版酒单仍在供应、新酒单尚未启用之际，MO Bar 在「亚洲 50 佳酒吧」榜单上从第 21 位跃升至第 5 位，位居所有酒店酒吧之首。张明儒说：「而我们仍在不断努力。」九月，MO Bar 首次跻身 2026 年「世界 50 佳酒吧」扩展榜单，位列第 60。 b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 135

PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, SHENZHEN

Celadon 龙泉梅

Which drink was hardest to get right? Bloom 龙膏烛 , according to Chang: “It’s based on a pink detail on a Sichuan opera costume. It’s hard to get pink in a cocktail, and the ingredients also have to have something to do with Sichuan. We use brandy because Sichuan grows grapes too. The thing everyone remembers about Sichuan is its spicy hotpot, so we fat-wash the brandy with hotpot base. Then we add tomato and guava and make a milk punch, which comes out a pale pink. Color still comes first, but the drink has to taste good, and the ingredients have to come from the place. All three have to fit.” In addition to milk, the milk punch uses mozzarella, which, says Chang, goes very well with the beef fat in the hotpot. This time he handed the concept to the whole team, and Rust 绛纹 is the work of bartender Mega Yang. The color of the Li brocade of Hainan, it is rum and pandan in the style of an oldfashioned, served in a glass made, Yang says, “to show the weave, with its continuous warp and discontinuous weft.”

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哪一杯最难调制？据张明儒说，是「龙膏烛」「它基于川剧戏服上的一抹粉色。在鸡尾（Bloom）：酒中调出粉色本就不易，而且所有原料还必须与四川有关。我们用了白兰地，因为四川也出产葡萄。大家对四川的印象就是麻辣火锅，所以我们用火锅底料对白兰地进行油脂浸洗。然后，我们加入番茄和番石榴，调制成牛奶潘趣，成品呈现出淡粉色。色彩仍然先行，但酒也必须好喝，食材也必须源自」除了牛奶，这杯牛奶当地 —— 这三者缺一不可。潘趣还用了马苏里拉奶酪，张明儒认为它与火锅里的牛油非常相配。这一次，张明儒把构思交给了整个团队，而「绛纹」（Rust）便出自调酒师 Mega Yang 之手。那是海南黎锦的色彩，以朗姆酒和班兰叶为基底，采用古典鸡尾酒的风格调制。盛装它的酒杯也别具匠心，「这杯子是为了展现黎锦那种『经线不 Mega 解释：断，纬线断续』的独特编织纹理。」

Russet 赪霞

Jade 天水碧

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PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, SHENZHEN

MO Bar Assistant Manager Cindy Shen with the mixology team MO Bar助理经理Cindy Shen及调酒师团队

The Chinese names are traditional color names Chang found in a book, and some come from classical poetry. Celadon, in the Glaze chapter, is Longquan Mei 龙泉梅 . “Longquan specializes in firing this kind of green porcelain, and it happens to grow green plums, too,” Chang says. “So we put the place name together with the plums.” The team spent about half a year on the menu. “We had to convince ourselves first – did everything fit together? If we couldn’t convince ourselves, there’s no way we can convince our guests.” Was there anything on the menu from his childhood? “That would be Sienna 石榴裙 , which is about the qipao ,” says Chang. “I remember my grandmother loved wearing them when I was little, the casual kind. So this drink means more to me when I make it. With the other objects, like a dragon robe or porcelain, I may never have touched the real thing. But growing up, I saw a qipao again and again.”

这些中文名字是张明儒从书中发掘的传统色彩名称，有些则出自古典诗词。「釉彩」章节中的「青瓷」色被命名为「龙泉梅」（Celadon）。他表示：「龙泉不仅以烧制这种青瓷闻名，当地也盛产青梅，所以我们就把地名与梅子结合起来。」新酒单由 MO Bar 团队历时六个月共同研发。「我们必须先说服自己。若不能说服自己，就无法说服客人。」酒单上有没有什么能让张明儒联想到童年回，它的灵忆？他说：「那得是『石榴裙』（Sienna）感源自旗袍。我记得小时候祖母很爱穿旗袍，比较随性、日常的那种。所以，每当我调这杯酒时，它对我而言都别具意义。至于像龙袍或瓷器这类物品，我或许从未亲手触碰过实物；但从小到大，我总是能反复看见旗袍。」 b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 139

PRESENTED BY W MACAU - STUDIO CITY

昼夜新章杯中奏鸣

flipping the script Living Room’s new SONATA cocktail menu trades traditional formulas for daring narratives that capture the living rhythms of Macau.

如果说澳门新濠影汇 W 酒店是对 20 世纪 50 年代 I F W M A C A U – S T U D I O C I T Y is a tribute to 1950s cinema, 电影的致敬，那么酒店大堂楼层便是影片开篇那 then its lobby level is the opening tracking shot. High above the 段流畅的移动长镜头。在这座立于路氹金光大道 Cotai Strip, the spatial narrative moves effortlessly from the sun之上的地标建筑内，空间叙事自然流转：从沐浴在 drenched, maritime-inspired Living Room into the shadowy, 阳光下、洋溢着航海风情的全日酒吧「潮堂」，过渡 suspenseful embrace of A.P.D (A Perfect Dose), the bar’s discreetly 至光影交错、隐秘而独特的「隐藏酒吧」 concealed speakeasy extension. BY 式空间 A.P.D（A Perfect Dose）—— 氛 More than merely an architectural effect, this DANIEL CHEUNG 围在此优雅转调。 transition from daylight to dusk has for three years set • 这种从白昼到黄昏的光影变幻，远 the stage for one of Macau’s most compelling beverPHOTOGRAPHY BY 不止是一种建筑美学效果；三年来，它 age programs. At the helm is newly appointed Head DAVID HARTUNG 为澳门最具魅力的酒吧体验之一定下 Mixologist Victor Pun, a Macau native who has guided 基调。掌舵人是新任首席调酒师 Victor his talented team from opening jitters to industry Pun—— 一位土生土长的澳门人。他带领着才华横 acclaim, most recently snagging the Rising Star title at the 2026 溢的团队，从开业初期的磨合阶段一路成长，获得 Tatler Best Hong Kong & Macau Awards. 业界赞誉，并在《香港及澳门 Tatler Best》指南中 Pun treats the two venues not simply as bars but as scenes 荣获「最佳新星」奖项。 in an evolving script, and now he is ready to turn the page. With 在 Victor 眼中，这两处空间并非只是酒吧， SONATA , the brand-new cocktail menu of Living Room that 而是将它们视为一部不断展开的故事中的不同篇 explores the “rooted yet forward-looking” philosophy that Pun has 章。如今，他已准备好谱写全新一页。随着潮堂的 come to be known for, W Macau – Studio City is proving that the 全新鸡尾酒单「SONATA」面世，澳门新濠影汇 W sequel can be just as thrilling as the original. 酒店正以 Victor「扎根本地，演绎未来」的理念， To understand Pun’s approach to the SONATA menu, one must 印证续章亦可如初章般令人心动。 first look at how he treats the dual themes of Sun and Time. For 若要理解 Victor 构思「SONATA」酒单的思路， Pun, these are not abstract concepts but rather tangible forces that

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Carson Lai, Eavis Tran, Sean Tang, Sandro Datario Poquiz, Victor Pun, Jacko Wong (clockwise from top left)

PRESENTED BY W MACAU - STUDIO CITY

dictate flavor. While the sun coaxes life from the soil, time, specifically through the slow art of fermentation, transforms that life into something entirely new. This philosophy is vividly captured in a creation Pun is especially enthusiastic about, the Star From The Root. It’s an earthy, grounding drink where the deep, rooted warmth of fingerroot meets the bright, sharp acidity of lacto-fermented tomatoes and chili. Though it may look like a simple summertime sip, the Star From The Root actually packs a potent, savory complexity. Pun proudly describes it as a thought-provoking cocktail that awakens the senses, like the flash of a new star rising over the horizon. If the Star From The Root is a showcase of warmth and solar energy, Purple & Tonic is a pure portrayal of patience. Fermentation, in Pun’s eyes, is not merely a method of preservation but also the art of manipulating time to maximize flavors. The heart of this cocktail relies on a vibrant purple cabbage pickle juice that has been left to ferment slowly and naturally over 168 hours. The week-long process yields a brilliant, layered liquid boasting soft saltiness and deep vegetal sweetness – and with a healthy dose of gut-friendly bacteria too. When shaken with rum, braced with the tropical brightness of lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves, and brightened with tonic water, the final product is a delicately dynamic drink. The tonic’s effervescence pulls

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首先要了解他如何诠释「太阳」与「时间」这两大主题。在 Victor 眼中，它们并非抽象概念，而是能够主宰风味的实质力量。太阳赋予大地生机；而时间 —— 尤其是缓慢的发酵工艺 —— 则将这种生命力转化为全新的风味体验。Victor 尤其钟爱的一款佳作「Star From The Root」便生动地体现了这一理念。这是一款充满大地气息、醇厚浓郁的饮品，结合深沉温暖的高良姜、乳酸发酵辣椒番茄的明快酸爽。尽管「Star From The Root」外表看似一款简单的夏日特饮，实则蕴含着浓郁而复杂的鲜美层次。Victor 满怀自豪地将它形容为一款引人深思、能唤醒感官的鸡尾酒，宛如一颗新星在地平线上冉冉升起，耀眼夺目。如果说「Star From The Root」是温暖与阳光的活力高音，那么「Purple & Tonic」便是对「耐心」这一特质深邃铺陈的低音线。在 Victor 眼中，发酵不仅是一种保存方法，更是一门驾驭时间以激发风味极致的艺术。这款鸡尾酒的灵魂在于鲜美的紫生菜腌渍汁，它经历了长达 168 小时的缓慢自然发酵。这一周的历程造就了色泽

← Moonlight → Star From The Root

the gentle bitterness and acidity forward, making each sip feel like a chronological marker of the time it took to create. As the sun retreats over the Cotai Strip, the SONATA narrative shifts from the grounding elements of the earth toward the ethereal realms of Moon and Love. Here, Pun works liquid alchemy to explore the concept of memory, guide guests through the poignant transitions of growing up, and demonstrate the vibrant multiculturalism of life in Macau. The emotional anchor of this movement is Fiesta Verde, a cocktail inspired by buko pandan, a creamy icebox dessert from the Philippines. Pun brings this childhood favorite to life – with expert input and guidance from fellow team member and native Filipino Sandro Datario Poquiz – using a technique called fat-washing to infuse rum with coconut milk. Mixed with pandan, melon, and matcha, the resulting emerald-hued concoction has a rich, velvety texture that is comforting and refreshing in equal measure. It acts as an olfactory time machine, one sip evoking the comforting aroma of pandan knots boiling in a family kitchen. This bittersweet relationship with time reaches its poetic climax in The Growth, a visually striking mix of vodka, white peach, lime, and Champagne. The drink serves as a liquid

亮丽、层次丰富的液体，兼具柔和咸味与浓郁的蔬果清甜，同时富含有益于肠道的益生菌。当它与朗姆酒摇和，并辅以香茅和青柠叶带来的热带清新气息，再经汤力水点亮，最终便会呈现出细腻的风味与蓬勃的活力。汤力水的气泡将酒液中温和的苦味与酸度层层托起，仿佛在回味那段漫长而用心的酿制时光。随着夕阳在路氹金光大道缓缓落下，「SONATA」的叙事也从大地元素转向月亮与爱的空灵意境。

Victor 以「液体炼金术」探索记忆，不只引领宾客回味成长过程中的动人转折，更展现澳门多元文化交融的魅力。这个主题的情感主旋律是「Fiesta Verde」，这款鸡尾酒的灵感来自菲律宾节庆甜点 buko pandan。Victor 为这款童年挚爱赋予全新生命 —— 在团队成员、菲律宾籍调酒师 Sandro

Datario Poquiz 的专业指导下，他运用油洗技法将朗姆酒与椰奶完美融合。酒液融合了斑兰叶、蜜瓜与抹茶风味，呈现出如翡翠般迷人的色泽，口感浓郁丝滑，清爽而暖心。它仿佛一台香气时光机，让人想起故乡温暖厨房里的斑兰叶香气。这种对时光苦乐参半的感悟，在「The Growth」 b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 143

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← Fiesta Verde → Hojicha Martini

metaphor for coming of age. Pun tops the cocktail with a delicate jelly, playing on a touching contrast: the child who chased the afternoon sun for a bite of something sweet has grown into the adult raising a Champagne flute under the moonlight. It’s a reminder that growing up does not mean abandoning youth but rather recalling that first taste of innocence while embracing the evening ahead. The true brilliance of the SONATA menu lies in its ability to anchor universal themes in the specific terroir of Macau’s evolving nightlife. Under the direction of Pun, the beverage program at W Macau – Studio City has successfully shed the traditional, rigid formulas of hotel bars. Instead, it offers an elastic experience that mirrors the rhythm of the city outside its windows – fluid, worldly, yet deeply connected to its roots. By treating mixology as an act of cinematic storytelling, Pun and his team have created a destination where a drink is never just a drink. Whether it’s the oceanslick salinity of Moonlight, the smoky, nostalgic comfort of Sip of Birthday, or the late-night intimacy of Your Luggage, every glass serves as a highly calculated scene designed to evoke a specific emotional response. It is a philosophy that balances technical precision with genuine human sentiment.

这款酒中达到了如诗般的高潮 —— 它由伏特加、白桃、青柠和香槟调制而成，视觉效果惊艳。它象征着人生的成长。Victor 在鸡尾酒上点缀一层精致果冻，这个精心打造的反差美丽又动人：曾经追逐午后阳光、只为尝一口甜蜜的孩童，如今已长成在月光下举起香槟杯的成年人。这提醒我们，成长并不意味着告别青春，而是在拥抱未来之夜的同时，回望那份最初的纯真。「SONATA」酒单的精妙之处，在于它能将普世情感与澳门不断演变的夜生活风貌巧妙融合。在

Victor 的主导下，澳门新濠影汇 W 酒店的酒品系列成功摆脱了传统酒店酒吧的刻板模式，发展为灵动多变的体验，呼应窗外城市的律动 —— 既流动多姿、充满国际气息，又深深扎根于这片土地。Victor 及其团队将调酒视为一种电影般的叙事艺术，打造出一个让「酒不仅仅是酒」的独特空间。无论是带有、充满烟熏质感与海洋般咸鲜气息的「Moonlight」，还是洋溢着深夜私甜美慰藉的「Sip of Birthday」，每一杯酒都像是一场精密氛围的「Your Luggage」心构思的场景乐章，唤起特定的情感共鸣。这正是那种在精湛技艺与真挚情感之间寻求平衡的理念。

SONATA is not just a new cocktail menu but a new chapter.

「SONATA」不仅是一份新酒单，更像是一段续

Beyond marking a broader shift for W Macau – Studio City in meeting and influencing customer tastes and preferences, it proves that local talent and daring narratives are the true ingredients set to define the future of Macau’s modern cocktail scene.

章。它不仅展现了澳门新濠影汇 W 酒店在迎合并引领顾客品味与偏好方面，正在发生的更深层变化，也印证了本地人才与大胆叙事，这正是定义澳门现代鸡尾酒场景未来的真正要素。 b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 145

香港故事杯中回响

pouring hong kong DarkSide debuts Echoes, an imaginative new menu of cocktails reflecting the craft, taste, and culture of a unique city.

A S O N E O F H O N G KO N G’ S most stylish cocktail parlors,

DarkSide at Rosewood Hong Kong has long been known for innovatively reimagining classic drinks. Now, DarkSide introduces a brilliant new lineup of nine drinks that take their cue from the rich diversity of a city renowned for blending the time-honored and the future-forward. The creative energy behind Echoes originates with a talented team led by award-winning Bar Manager Marco Maiorano, who presides over DarkSide with the quiet conviction that authentic hospitality always comes first. Assistant Bar Manager Ian Lui is known for elevating the bar experience for every guest by crafting tailored cocktails. Echoes guides guests on a sensory adventure, gathering traditions, iconic tastes, and cultural customs and bringing them to life in luscious liquid form in three distinctive chapters:“Craft,” inspired by artisanal flair, recalls treasures found among the city’s market vendors – vibrant neon, delicate ceramics, sumptuous leather. All Eyes On Me, created with the assistance of Hong Kong design workshop Neon Dept, is an electric burst of tropical fruit and herbal brightness glowing with vivid intensity. Chic & Candied, in harmony with the artisanship of Hong Ko n g’s

Chic and Candied

PRESENTED BY ROSEWOOD HONG KONG

COURTESY OF ROSEWOOD HONG KONG (3)

Ian Lui and Marco Maiorano

Brothers Leathercraft, is luxuriously smooth and balanced by aromatic pandan and candied depth. “Taste” echoes Hong Kong’s nostalgic, comforting, and instantly recognizable streetfood flavors. Creamy, buttery-sweet Cha Cha Bun, inspired by Pineapple Bakery, evokes classic cha chaan teng milk tea with a light, effervescent lift and rich condensed notes. And Just 3 Minutes, created with the help of Hong Kong’s Wing Lok Noodle Factory, is a briny pour bursting with quick-hit spice that captures the warming essence of slurpy street noodle bowls. “Culture,” rooted in heritage and seasonal rituals, is a nod to folklore, yearly traditions, and nostalgic market moments. The intriguingly snake-centric I Don’t Bite blends herbal botanicals with exotic tropical fruit notes. Nutty Nightcup, like grabbing a paper cone of hot chestnuts on a chilly market night, is warm and rich with nutty depth and winter spice. With the rollout of Echoes, DarkSide is enviably positioned to continue its lead in Hong Kong’s ever-evolving creative cocktail culture.

作为中国香港最具格调的鸡尾酒吧之一，香港瑰丽酒店的酒吧 DarkSide 一直以当代技艺重新演绎经典鸡尾酒而闻名。

DarkSide 推出的全新鸡尾酒单 Echoes 共有九款巧思独具的鸡尾酒，灵感取自这座融汇传统与未来的多元之都的丰厚底蕴。Echoes 背后的创意能量源自由屡获殊荣的酒吧经理 Marco Maiorano 领军的团队，他以「真挚待客」的坚定信念掌舵 DarkSide。助理酒吧经理 Ian Lui 则以细腻的个性化服务著称，为宾客调制专属鸡尾酒，升华酒吧体验。

Echoes 酒单打造了一场感官之旅，汇聚香港的风俗传统、经典味道与文化仪式，并以醇美芳液之姿，在三个章节中鲜活绽放：「匠艺」源自匠心造艺的启迪，令人联想起香港市集中的手工珍品：绚丽的霓虹、精巧的陶瓷、温润的皮革。与香港设计工作室新霓虹系合作的 All Eyes On Me 迸发着热带果香与草本清亮的鲜活；与香港兄弟皮艺有限公司的工艺精神相呼应的 Chic & Candied 则优雅顺滑、并以斑兰芳香与蜜渍甜味完美平衡。「味道」呼应唤起美好回忆的香港街头小食风味，怀旧踏实、一试难忘。凤梨饼家启发了 Cha Cha Bun 的创作，如奶油般绵密、带着黄油甜香，令人想到经典茶餐厅奶茶，同时注入轻盈气泡与炼乳香甜；与香港永乐粉面厂合作的 Just 3 Minutes 则带有海洋咸鲜，辛辣感迅速迸发，捕捉街头汤面的爽快疗愈本质。「文化」植根于文化传统与节庆仪式，向民间传说、年度习俗与怀旧市井时刻致敬。神秘的 I Don't Bite 以蛇为主题，融合草本植物与异域热带果香； Nutty Nightcup 则如同在寒夜街头捧着一袋热腾腾的糖炒栗子，温暖且富含坚果的深邃与冬日辛香。随着 Echoes 酒单的推出，DarkSide 已蓄势待发，继续引领香港不断演进的创意鸡尾酒文化。 b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 147

香槟哲学

时刻皆欢

beyond the toast Moët & Chandon Chef de Cave Benoît Gouez multiplies the moments for Champagne.

香槟从来不需等待特殊场合才开瓶 ——Moët & ACCORDING TO BENOÎT GOUEZ , Champagne should not have 「我们始 to wait for a special occasion: “We believe Champagne is an emoChandon 首席酿酒师 Benoît Gouez 表示：终相信香槟是情感的纽带。它关乎相聚与分享喜悦， tional connector. It’s about being together and sharing joy, even in 哪怕只是日常里的微小瞬间。」 the little moments.” In extending Champagne’s possibilities beyond 当 Moët & Chandon 不断将香槟的可能性拓 traditional rituals, Moët & Chandon’s prestigious Grand Vintage 展至传统仪式之外，Moët & Chandon represents a special kind of freedom – the freedom of BY Grand Vintage 便代表了另一种自由 —— diversity. While legendary Brut Impérial is a Champagne MAMIE CHEN 忠于风土表达的创作自由。 Moët & of consistency, Grand Vintage is one of uniqueness, Chandon Brut Impérial 是恒定如一，而 beginning anew each season from the character of a single exceptional harvest. Rather than imposing a house style on Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 则诠释着独一无二，每一年皆以单一年份的个性重新出发。Benoît the vintage, Gouez listens for what the year is quietly revealing. 不会将品牌风格强加于每一次收成，而是耐心倾听 In 2016, the story began in turbulence. A mild winter was 这一年的风土在寂静中想要诉说的故事。 followed by frost, heavy spring rain led to mildew, and summer brought a heat wave and drought conditions that tested the resil2016 年份的故事始于动荡。暖冬过后是霜冻，春季大雨导致霉菌滋生，夏季热浪与干旱考验着香 ience of Champagne’s growers before the season finally delivered 槟区种植者的韧性与耐心，所幸采收季节最终带来 clean, ripe fruit. 了纯净成熟的优质果实。 “It had a happy ending,” Gouez says, “challenging for the 「这是一个圆满的结局。对种植者 growers but gratifying for the makers. I had the idea of rewarding Benoît 说：来说是挑战，对酿造者而言却是馈赠。我希望以一 the growers by crafting a Champagne that conveyed a message of 款香槟来回报他们 —— 传递风暴过后的宁静、动荡 serenity after the storm, peace after the battle.” In blending, that 之后的和平。」在调配过程中，他着力在果香与酵 meant finding balance between fruitiness and yeasty maturity and

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COURTESY OF MOËT & CHANDON (2)

INTERVIEW

then shaping what he describes as a “seamless flow of sensations,” without excess acidity or structure. The result is a nose that opens with toasted bread, grains, and hazelnut, deepening into gingerbread and marzipan with a lingering fruity and floral bouquet. On the palate, roundness gives way to a more structured core, lifted by the tangy freshness of clementine and pomelo. Grand Vintage offers Gouez an ideal means of transforming perceptions of Champagne’s place at the table. “I’m very happy with pairing food with Champagne,” he says, “but it’s something that has not yet been fully realized.” Many diners, he finds, may begin with Champagne but tend to turn instinctively to red wine when red meat, spicy heat, or richly flavored dishes arrive. “In fact,” says Gouez, “Grand Vintage is very suitable with almost any type of food.” He suggests a three-ingredient pairing approach: a main element of fish, meat, or vegetable followed by a complement that echoes a distinct note from the Champagne’s bouquet and then a contrast that introduces surprise with a touch of vegetal character or umami. In light of this remarkable Champagne’s elegant versatility, Moët & Chandon encourages diners first to raise a glass and then to invite Grand Vintage to stay for dinner.

母带来的醇厚熟成感之间寻找平衡，并塑造他所形容的「流畅无隙的感官体验」，避免过重的酸度或结构感。最终呈现的香气以烤面包、谷物与榛子开场，逐渐深入为姜饼与杏仁糖的气息，尾韵萦绕着悠长的花果芬芳。入口圆润，随后过渡至更具结构感的核心风味，由柑橘与柚子的清亮酸度轻盈提振。

Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 为 Benoît 提供了一个绝佳途径，来打破人们对香槟佐餐的既定印象。他说：「我非常乐见香槟与美食的搭配，但这个理念还远未普及。」大多数人都习惯以香槟作为开胃酒，但当红肉、辛香或风味浓郁的菜式上桌时，人们往往转向享用红酒。「事实上，香槟几乎适合搭配任 Benoît 说：何食物。」他提出了一套「三元素」搭配法：首先，以鱼、肉或蔬菜作为核心元素；之后选择一种能呼应香槟香气中某个鲜明气息的食材；最后，引入一抹草本特质或鲜味，制造惊喜的反差感。

Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 优雅而百搭，Moët & Chandon 鼓励食客先举杯共饮，再让它留在餐桌上，全程相伴。 b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 149

PRESENTED BY JEBSEN BEVERAGE

盖世之作

very gehry Hotel Marqués de Riscal celebrates its twentieth birthday as a stunning architectural landmark in Spain’s Rioja winemaking region. BY LUCY MORGAN

CATCH I NG TH E M I DDAY LIGHT,

Frank Gehry Selection 2019 and 2022 are made from hand-selected Tempranillo grapes from vineyards more than eighty years old. 2019 与 2022 年份「Frank Gehry精选红葡萄酒」皆选用树龄超过八十年的丹魄葡萄手工采摘酿造而成。

tinted metal ribbons flowing from the roof of Hotel Marqués de Riscal g ive this s tr ik i ng s tr u c tu re th e air of a glowing spacecraf t that has chosen to land in the middle of Spain’s most prestigious wine region. It sits regally within the esteemed Marqués de Riscal estate, where generations of pioneering winemakers have been at work since 1858. Just across the valley, a fierce summer sun illuminates the golden stones of the medieval village of Elciego. And while the contrast between ancient and modern architecture is astonishing, the supreme craftsmanship behind both is indisputable. Canadian-American architect Frank Gehry, arguably best known for the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, is the artist behind this extraordinary building, inaugurated in 2006. The hotel is part of the Marqués de Riscal City of Wine project that modernized the Elciego wineries while respecting their heritage. In among the elegant contemporary buildings of the new city there’s a true oenological treasure, the estate’s cellar, an archive of historic vintages housed in the original nineteenthcentury bodega. At t h e h ote l ’s Re s t a u r a nte Gastronómico Marqués de Riscal, Chef Francis Paniego crafts intricate dishes to pair with some of

Hotel Marqués de Riscal features gleaming pink, silver, and gold titanium curves and floor-to-ceiling windows that flood the building with light. The interior, crafted from pale wood and stone, echoes the natural beauty of the surrounding countryside. 瑞格尔侯爵酒店的粉、银、金三色交织的钛钢金属曲线流光溢彩，落地窗为建筑引入充沛

COURTESY OF HOTEL MARQUÉS DE RISCAL (2)

的光线。室内以浅色木材与石材打造，呼应了周围乡野的自然之美。

the most precious bottles from the estate’s library. A rare and delicate 1956 Marqués de Riscal, Reserva must be opened with heated tongs that sever the neck of the bottle. This beautiful deep-toned red, offering notes of the forest floor and polished leather and the lightest whisper of smoke, is matched with creamy snout ravioli and squid tagliatelle. The depth and complexity of flavors in the dish make a perfect pairing with this exquisite vintage. Marqués de Riscal has a long history of accolades. In 1895 it became the first non-French winery to receive the Diploma of Honor at the International Exposition of Bordeaux. In 2024, it was ranked No. 1 by The World’s 50 Best Vineyards. Famed for its range of exceptionally well-made wines, from entry-level to super-premium reserves, it has produced one label that is particularly dear to its heart: Frank Gehry Selection, a hedonistically luscious red, created as a tribute to the architect whose vision has transformed the skyline of the Marqués de Riscal estate.

正午阳光倾泻而下，瑞格尔侯爵酒店延展而出的彩色金属结构，让这座建筑宛如一艘发光的宇宙飞船，降落在西班牙最负盛名的葡萄酒产区腹地里奥哈。它位于享誉盛名的瑞格尔侯爵酒庄之中，自 1858 年以来，一代又一代开创性的酿酒师在此耕耘不辍。山谷对面，炽烈的夏日阳光照亮了中世纪小镇艾尔谢戈的金色石墙。古老与现代建筑之间的对比固然惊人，但两者背后所凝聚的精湛工艺，同样毋庸置疑。于 2006 年落成启用的这座非凡建筑，由加拿大裔美国建筑师 Frank Gehry 打造。他最为人熟知的作品莫过于古根海姆博物馆。这间酒店是瑞格尔侯爵酒庄葡萄酒之城计划的一部分，该计划在尊重传统的同时，为艾尔谢戈镇的酒庄注入了现代化的活力。在新城优雅的当代建筑群中，藏着一座真正的葡萄酒瑰宝 —— 酒庄的地下酒窖，这座始建于

19 世纪的原酿酒厂，如今珍藏着历年的世纪名酒。在酒店的 Restaurante Gastronómico 餐厅，主厨 Francis Paniego 以精雕细琢的佳肴，搭配酒庄的珍贵酒藏。一瓶罕见而细腻的 1956 年瑞格尔侯爵 Reserva 红酒，需以加热的钳具灼断瓶颈，方可开启。这款色泽深沉的红酒，散发着林间苔藓与细腻皮革的气息，并伴随着一缕若隐若现的烟熏韵味，与奶油风味的猪鼻肉意大利饺及墨鱼意大利面相得益彰。菜式层次丰厚且复杂，与这款卓越年份酒款形成完美和鸣。瑞格尔侯爵酒庄获奖无数。1895 年，它成为首家在波尔多国际博览会上荣获荣誉文凭的非法国酒庄。2024 年，它更荣登「世界 50 最佳葡萄园」榜首。酒庄以一系列卓越的葡萄酒而闻名，从入门级到超顶级珍藏，皆备受推崇。其中一款酒尤为珍贵：「Frank Gehry 精选葡萄酒」—— 这款红酒口感丰腴、令人沉醉，专为致敬建筑师 Frank Gehry 而酿造，正是他的设计让瑞格尔侯爵酒庄拥有了独具辨识度的建筑风貌。 b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 151

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时光为业

selling time The Mandarin Oriental chief executive Laurent Kleitman believes a hotel company sells only time, and that a colleague who rescued a ketchupstained shirt in Bangkok recruited him without knowing it.

现任文华东方酒店集团首席执行官的 Laurent L AURENT KLEITMAN is Group Chief Executive of Mandarin Kleitman 于 2023 年履新。此前，他深耕奢侈品 Oriental Hotel Group, a post he has held since 2023 after 与美妆行业多年，最近一份工作是在 Parfums a career in luxury and beauty, most recently at Parfums Christian Dior。如今，他正致力于让这个素来 Christian Dior. He is doubling the size of a company he would 以「小而精」著称的品牌规模翻倍，在品牌粉丝 like to keep small, adding hotels in the cities where its fans 们期待的城市增设酒店。在他眼中， expect to find one, and he speaks of chefs, conBY 无论是主厨、礼宾员还是客房服务 cierges and housekeepers alike as masters of MARK HAMMONS 员，都是各自领域的技艺大师。他与 a craft. He sat down at Ocean Table with Mark （TK）杂志创始人《Tasting Kitchen》 Hammons, founder and publisher of Tasting 兼出版人 Mark Hammons 在 Ocean Table 展开 Kitchen (TK), and the conversation ran from a river terrace in 对谈，话题从曼谷的河畔露台一直延伸到东京的 Bangkok to a pizza counter in Tokyo. 披萨吧台。

Jardine Matheson has taken Mandarin Oriental private. Has the freedom from public reporting changed how you run the group? If I’m honest, I’ve always felt very free, because what we do at Mandarin Oriental, and what we have done for many years, was always for the guests. Being fully private has probably shifted the time frame a little, from quarterly reporting to a very long-term view, a decade view. Fundamentally, I believe hospitality has to move, and is gradually moving, away from real estate, the brick and mortar of the hotel, toward what is inside it. What soul do you bring to the hotel? What experience do you bring to guests? That is why our strategy is brand-led and guest-centric, and being private doesn’t change that philosophy.

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怡和控股已将文华东方私有化。告别上市公司的披露要求后，这是否改变了你管理集团的方式？坦白说，我一直都感到很自由，因为我们在文华东方所做的一切始终都是为了宾客 —— 多年来一贯如此。私有化或许在时间维度上带来了一些转变，我们的关注点从季度财报转向了长远规划，甚至以十年为尺度。从根本上讲，我认为酒店业正在也必须逐渐摆脱对酒店实体建筑的依赖，转而关注酒店的内在。要为一家酒店注入怎样的灵魂？又能为宾客带来怎样的体验？正因如此，我们的战略始终以品牌为引领、以客为本，私有化并没有改变这个核心理念。

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Mandarin Oriental The Landmark, Hong Kong reopens this year after an extensive renovation. 香港置地文华东方酒店历经大规模翻新，并于今年重开。

Can a brand built on exclusivity double in size without losing it? We operate forty-seven hotels, about 10,000 rooms, which I believe is still a very small footprint. Even if we double that, to 20,000 rooms and a hundred hotels, it is a fairly limited presence, and we like to think it is good to remain small. We do have fans of Mandarin Oriental; we call them fans for a reason. If you love the brand and it doesn’t have a presence everywhere, you almost disappoint your fans. If you love Rome and can’t find your Mandarin Oriental there, then I am disappointing you. From next year, you’ll have a Mandarin Oriental in Rome.

对于一个建立在「独特性」基础上的品牌，能否在规模翻倍的同时保持这种特质？我们目前运营着四十七家酒店，拥有约一万间客房 —— 我认为这依然是很小的规模。即使翻倍，达到两万间客房和一百家酒店，我们的市场布局依然相当有限，而我们乐于保持这种「小而精」的状态。我们有许多「文华东方」的拥趸 —— 我们称他们为」，并非没有道理。如果你热爱一个「粉丝（Fans）品牌，而它并非随处可见，难免会令人失望。例如你热爱罗马，却在那里找不到文华东方酒店 —— 那便是我们让你失望了。不过，从明年起，罗马也将迎来一家文华东方酒店。

How do you match a chef to a place? You always have to find the alchemy between a chef and a property, a chef and a restaurant, a chef and a destination. We love artists, and chefs are artists. They know how to make music with produce, how to capture the essence of a destination while drawing on their own repertoire. I love to think Anne-Sophie Pic at Le Normandie in Bangkok is a match made in heaven: such a delicate, flavorful, utterly creative yet very readable culinary world, and the delicate, flavorful, incredibly crisp and fresh ingredients you have in Thailand. I could say the same of Daniel Boulud here in Hong Kong, and now we have a fabulous chef in Mexico, Grant Achatz. Finding that relationship is an art. I don’t think it’s a science.

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你如何将主厨与特定的地点进行匹配？关键在于找到主厨与酒店、餐厅和目的地之间的奇妙化学反应。我们热爱艺术家，而主厨就是艺术家。他们懂得如何用食材「谱写乐章」，既能捕捉当地的神韵，又能展现自身的烹饪造诣。我认为曼谷文华东方酒店的 Le Normandie 餐厅与主厨

Anne-Sophie Pic 便是「天作之合」：她细腻、风味丰富、极具创意却清晰易懂的烹饪世界，与泰国精致、鲜美、清新的食材完美交融。香港的 Daniel Boulud 主厨亦然；我们在墨西哥也迎来了一位杰出主厨 ——

Grant Achatz。发掘这种契合是一门艺术，而非科学。

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“Not many properties around the world reach that very respectable age, and ours is aging very well.

放眼全球，拥有如此悠久历史的酒店屈指可数，而我们的酒店依然状态极佳。” Laurent Kleitman Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok opened its 150th anniversary celebrations with a gala cooked by the Club des Chefs des Chefs. Why that idea?

曼谷文华东方酒店为庆祝其成立一百五十周年，举

Not many properties around the world reach that very respectable age, and ours is aging very well. We didn’t do it for our own ego as a company. We did it to celebrate the guests who over the decades have made this property famous. We call the program Unfolding Legacies: more than a year of events, spread out until early 2027. In hospitality today many things become lifestyle, sometimes casual, and the Oriental is probably not the most casual place. We liked the idea of the right formality: bringing the chefs of heads of state to cook, so that all our guests were the guests of a state dinner. We know that, very often, diplomacy happens around the table.

的构想？

办了一场由「国际御厨协会（Club des Chefs des

Chefs）」成员精心呈献的盛大晚宴。为何会有这样放眼全球，拥有如此悠久历史的酒店屈指可数，而我们的酒店依然状态极佳。我们举办这场庆典并非出于企业虚荣心，而是为了致敬那些在过去几十年成就了这家酒店盛名的宾客。我们将这一系列庆祝活动命名，持续一年多，一为「风华永绽」（Unfolding Legacies）直延续至 2027 年初。如今在酒店业，许多体验都趋向生活方式化，风格甚至过于随性，而文华东方或许并非那种极度随意的场所。我们喜欢「恰到好处的仪式感」：邀请各国元首的御用主厨来掌勺，让每一位宾客都能成为国宴主厨的座上宾。我们深知，外交往往是在餐桌上促成的。

The lobby at Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok, the hotel’s first and most enduring impression 曼谷文华东方酒店大堂，这里是宾客对酒店最初、也最持久的印象。 b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 155

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“We love artists, and chefs are artists.

我们热爱艺术家，而主厨就是艺术家。” Laurent Kleitman

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Le Normandie at Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok, helmed by Anne-Sophie Pic 曼谷文华东方酒店的 Le Normandie 餐厅，由Anne-Sophie Pic掌厨。

The Pizza Bar on 38th at Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo has eight or ten seats and would not survive most F&B committees. Why did it survive yours? A pizza bar in Tokyo sounds very odd, but the reality of the experience is very different. It celebrates the craft of pizza making, with one of the best doughs I have ever tasted. Daniele Cason is an authentic Italian chef who has lived in Japan for so long that he has taken the best from Japan. You get the best of two things, which creates an edge. Our guests are looking for experiences that are a little edgier, yet fundamentally pleasant, since you can also be edgy and unpleasant. We are probably in the business of pushing the boundaries of culinary experience while remaining very pleasant.

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东京文华东方酒店的「The Pizza Bar on 38th」只有八到十个座位，按理说很难通过大多数餐饮委员会的评估。它为何能获得你们认可？在东京开一家披萨吧，听起来或许有些另类，但实际体验却截然不同。披萨制作的精湛技艺在这展现尽致，其面团的出色程度，在我尝过的披萨中数一数二。主厨 Daniele Cason 是一位地道的意大利人，他在日本生活多年，深谙日本文化精髓。这种融汇双方所长的特质，形成了独特的优势。我们的客人追求的是既有新意又令人愉悦的体验 —— 毕竟，新意未必总是愉悦。我们所做的或许就是在不断拓展美食体验边界的同时，始终保持令人愉悦的品质。

“We sell only time and emotions, and we have to be very clear that this is our core business.

我们出售的是时间与情感，也必须清楚，这就是我们的核心所在。” Laurent Kleitman

You used the word craft. Does it reach beyond the kitchen, to the twenty-two full-time florists in Bangkok, for instance?

你提到了「技艺」一词。这种理念是否延伸到厨房之

That notion of craft cuts across many professions in a hotel. A concierge is mastering his craft. A housekeeper is mastering the craft of preparing a room the way you want it prepared. Our philosophy is to elevate every single profession into a distinctive craft, and we celebrate our masters of craft, internally and externally, in a program that singles out the colleagues with the greatest command of what they do. We give the florists this wonderful lobby, the first impression a guest receives, and hundreds of thousands of touch points across the property: rooms, wellness, restaurants, banqueting spaces. The expression of craft is fundamental to the whole experience.

员精进服务技艺，客房服务员打磨依照客人心意布置房

外？比如曼谷文华东方酒店那二十二位全职花艺师？「技艺」这个理念，事实上就是一种商业模式。礼宾间的技艺。我们的理念，是把每一种职业都提升为一门独特的技艺。我们通过一项特别计划，在内部与外部表彰那些对自身工作掌握得最为精湛的「技艺大师」。我们赋予花艺师广阔的舞台 —— 从酒店大堂这个留下第一印象的地方，到遍布酒店各处的数十万个展示空间，涵盖客房、康体中心、餐厅及宴会厅等。技艺的表达，构成整个宾客体验的基石。

在你出任首席执行官之前，你年幼的儿子曾在文华东方酒店的餐厅把番茄酱溅到衬衫上，而用餐结束时，衬衫已洁净如新 —— 简直是个小小的奇迹。为什么这件事至今仍让你念念不忘？

Before you were CEO, your young son spilled ketchup on his shirt at a Mandarin Oriental restaurant, and the shirt came back clean by the end of the meal, a small miracle. Why does it still matter? I like the word miracle, because this is what we do for a living. We need to deliver miracles every day for a guest. It happened on the terrace by the Chao Phraya River, and this is where I got hooked on the brand. Over the years the memory has become more vivid. It was the unexpected, delivered in a very tactful and understated way. To transform that drama into a moment of delight is unique. There is no standard that says, when a ketchup stain lands on a young kid’s white shirt, this is what you have to do. I told the colleague, who is still at the Oriental in Bangkok today, that on that day he had recruited the CEO without knowing it.

我很喜欢「奇迹」这个词，因为它正是我们的立身之本。我们每天都在为客人创造奇迹。那件事发生在湄南河畔的露台上，正是那一刻让我深深爱上了这个品牌。多年过去，这段记忆反而愈发清晰。那是意料之外的惊喜，却以低调、极其得体的方式呈现。能将突发状况化为愉悦时刻，这种能力独一无二。并没有哪条标准规定，当番茄酱渍溅到小孩的白衬衫上时，员工该采取什么固定做法。我曾告诉那位至今仍任职于曼谷文华东方酒店的同事：那天，他不知不觉中「招募」了一位首席执行官。

既然客人的美好体验多多益善，那么文华东方酒店真正在销售的究竟是什么？我们经营的是「时刻」与「时间」的生意。在这个世界上，人们最稀缺的资源便是时间。我该如何让这段时间对你更具价值？我们出售的是时间与情感，也必须清楚，这就是我们的核心所在。无论是一杯咖啡、一顿美餐、一

If a guest can never have too many good experiences, what is Mandarin Oriental actually selling? We’re in the business of selling moments, of selling time. The scarcest thing that you and I have in this world is time. How can I make that time more valuable to you? We sell only time and emotions, and we have to be very clear that this is our core business. When you walk out of a Mandarin Oriental after a coffee, a meal, a treatment, a night, a week or a month’s holiday with us, you walk out with only your memories.

次水疗，还是度过一晚、一周甚至一个月的假期，当你离开文华东方时，能带走的唯有回忆。

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扇叙未来

the guardian Mandarin Oriental’s German brand chief, Alex Schellenberger, has modernized a forty-year-old identity without touching its fan, and found the company’s best advocates among its own guests.

Alex Schellenberger 于 2024 年 3 月加入文华东 A L E X S C H E L L E N B E R G E R joined Mandarin Oriental 方酒店集团，现任首席品牌与营销官。在加入集 Hotel Group in March 2024 and is now its Chief Brand and 团之前，他曾在巴黎的雅高集团担任全球首席营 Marketing Officer. He came from Accor in Paris, where he 销官；更早之前，他曾在施华洛世奇和科蒂集团 was Global Chief Marketing Officer, after senior brand roles 担任品牌高管，职业生涯起步于宝洁公司，负责 at Swarovski and Coty and a start at Procter & Gamble, Hugo Boss 香水业务。在短短两年内， where he worked on the Hugo Boss fragrances. BY 他为文华东方集团引入了全新的品牌 In two years he has given the company a new MARK HAMMONS 字标和色彩体系，重塑了客户忠诚计 wordmark, a new color, and a reworked recogni划，同时也维持了集团最古老的资产 tion program, and left its oldest asset, the fan, （TK）「扇子」标志的原貌。他与《Tasting Kitchen》 exactly where it was. He sat down at Ocean Table with Mark 杂志创始人兼出版人 Mark Hammons 在 Ocean Hammons, founder and publisher of Tasting Kitchen (TK). Table 进行了对话。

Mandarin Oriental has a new visual identity, its first change in a generation. How much did you allow yourselves to change? The identity was last changed in 1985, which was also the year the fan was first chosen as our symbol. We went back into the archives of the Oriental in Bangkok and found a note from as early as 1886 recording a general manager handing fans to the wives of VIP guests as they left Bangkok, to protect them from the heat. So the fan was only natural, because it has always been there. The fan remains sacred. We’re not touching the fan. The new wordmark is inspired by the blades of the fan, and we removed “Hotel Group,” a descriptor that felt unnecessary and maybe too functional.

文华东方启动品牌视觉焕新，这是该品牌一代人以来的首次革新。你们在变革幅度上给自己设定了怎样的界限？上一次品牌形象更新是在 1985 年，那一年「扇子」首次被选为我们的品牌标志。我们查阅了曼谷文华东方酒店的历史档案，发现早在 1886 年便有一份记录显示，当时一位总经理会在贵宾离开曼谷时，向其夫人赠送扇子，以助她们抵御炎热。因此，沿用「扇子」这个元素是顺理成章的，因为它一直都在那里。「扇子」是我们不可动摇的核心，我们绝不会对其进行改动。全新的品牌字标设计灵感源自扇骨的形态，我们去掉了「Hotel Group」这一后缀，因为它显得冗余，且过于强调功能性。 b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 161

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“The fan remains sacred. We’re not touching the fan.

『扇子』是我们不可动摇的核心，我们绝不会对其进行改动。” Alex Schellenberger

Why celadon green? It was very important not to choose a color at random. We wanted something that reflects our dual Asian roots, because we are a brand born in two places: Hong Kong, with its entrepreneurialism, its independent pioneering spirit, its vibrancy; and Bangkok, which to some is the motherland of service, with a certain calm about it, a very high elegance and gracefulness. We found it in celadon green. Celadon ceramics have been part of both cultures for hundreds of years, and on the original facade of the Oriental in Bangkok, from 1876, it was the primary color.

为什么选择青瓷绿？至关重要的是，我们不能随意选择颜色。我们希望找到一种能体现我们双重亚洲渊源的色彩，因为我们是一个诞生于两地的品牌：一个是中国香港，这里充满创业精神、独立开拓的魄力和蓬勃的生机；另一个是泰国曼谷，在许多人眼中，它是待客之道的发源地，散发着宁静、高雅而优美的气质。最终，我们在青瓷绿中找到了这种感觉。数百年来，青瓷一直是这两种文化共同的一部分；而且在 1876 年建成的曼谷文华东方酒店建筑立面上，青瓷绿正是主色调。

You have called the brand undersupplied. What tells you that? We have thirty-six hotels signed for the next six to eight years. One of the key insights we found is that in this industry, one property equals almost one index point of awareness. We were punching well above our weight in awareness, which allows us to go into that expansion, because guests are almost longing for that physical availability. Our cultural footprint is bigger than our physical footprint. We have ninety-three percent awareness, and our yearly brand health tracker also gives us a brand strength index: within the ultra-high-net-worth target group, we’re number one.

你曾指出品牌目前处于「供不应求」的状态。这是基于什么判断？我们在未来六到八年内已签约筹建三十六家酒店。我们发现的一个关键洞察是：在这个行业，每增加一家酒店，品牌知名度指数就会几乎提升一个点。我们的知名度远超自身规模体量，这为我们的扩张奠定了基础，因为宾客们渴望能有更多实体网点供其入住。我们的文化影响力远超我们的实体版图。我们的品牌知名度高达 93%，而年度品牌健康度监测显示，在超高净值人群这一目标客群中，我们的品牌实力指数位居榜首。

Where did the Celebrity Fans idea come from, and why has it lasted? The fan campaign started in 2000, and I think it was one of the most genius things that ever happened to the brand; it helped to establish Mandarin Oriental as we know it today. The first Celebrity Fans were David Tang and Michelle Yeoh, and Michelle Yeoh is still a forever fan of the brand. The second genius thing was to keep it going for twenty-six years, because marketers tend to get bored of a campaign much quicker than is probably necessary. There was the duality of having a fan as a brand symbol and being a fan of the brand. We have now partnered with a hundred celebrities. In most cases they are fans of the brand already, and very often they approach us and say, I’m staying at your hotels anyway, what can we do together? It has become almost a badge of honor.

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「名人粉丝」（Celebrity Fan）这一创意是如何诞生的？为何能延续至今？这项「粉丝」宣传活动始于 2000 年，我认为这是该品牌历史上最巧妙的举措之一 —— 它奠定了如今人们所熟知的文华东方品牌形象。首批「名人粉丝」包括邓永锵和杨紫琼，而杨紫琼至今仍是品牌的忠实粉丝。第二个精妙之处在于坚持了二十六年之久，因为营销人员往往会对某个宣传活动感到厌倦，甚至过早放弃。它具有双重含义：既将「扇子」作为品牌象征，同时也体现了名人本身又是品牌的「粉丝」。迄今为止，我们已与上百位名人达成合作。在大多数情况下，他们本身就是品牌的粉丝。他们常主动联系我们，表示自己本来就会入住我们的酒店，并询问能否开展合作。这已成为一种荣誉的象征。

A suite at Mandarin Oriental threaded with celadon green; the fan element still anchors every Mandarin Oriental property. 文华东方套房内，青瓷绿点缀其间；而扇子元素至今仍是每一家文华东方酒店的基调。 b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 165

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Celebrity FANs at Mandarin Oriental, Qianmen, Beijing 北京前门文华东方酒店庭院中的「名人粉丝」合影。

When Mandarin Oriental Qianmen, Beijing opened in a hutong, the pianist Yuja Wang played in the courtyards. What does a fan get, and what do you get back? We still pay good money, but mostly in suite nights, and we make a donation on their behalf to a charity of their choice; we have donated millions over the years. Once you become a fan there is a relationship with the brand over a couple of years, and sometimes public appearances: we invite them to milestones and important celebrations, and if it’s an artist we invite them to perform. When we opened our second property in Beijing, in a traditional hutong, we invited Yuja Wang, who is now a Celebrity Fan too, and she played in the courtyards. It was magical. So you can also bring their talents into the guest experience.

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当北京前门文华东方酒店在胡同中开业时，钢琴家王羽佳曾在酒店庭院内演奏。作为「粉丝」，他们能获得什么？而你们又能得到什么回报？我们会支付可观的报酬，但主要形式是提供套房住宿，并以他们的名义向其指定的慈善机构捐款。多年来，我们已累计捐赠了数百万元。一旦成为「粉丝」，他们便与品牌建立起长达数年的关系，并可能参与公开活动：我们会邀请他们出席里程碑式的盛会或重要庆典。如果是艺术家，我们还会邀请他们进行表演。我们在北京的传统胡同里开设第二家酒店时，邀请了王羽佳 —— 她如今也是「名人粉丝」的一员 —— 在庭院中演奏，那场面简直妙不可言。由此可见，我们也可以将这些艺术家的才华融入宾客体验之中。

Most of the people in your restaurants are locals. In 2025 you re-tiered Fans of M.O., and an app followed in April. What changed for them?

光顾你们酒店餐厅的大多是当地人。2025 年，你

We now have four tiers. Three are published, and one is by invitation only: The Collective, 2,500 ultrahigh-net-worth individuals. Before we re-tiered the program, only room stays counted toward your tier. Now any spend across the hotel counts, whether in wellness, where many of our spa members are from the local community, or in any of the restaurants and bars. They are loyal guests, and it was equally important to reward their spend the way we reward room nights for guests from overseas.

来说意味着什么变化？

们调整了「尚扇荟 Fans of M.O.」会员计划的等级体系，并于 4 月推出了配套应用程序。这对会员我们现在设有四个等级。其中三个等级是公开的，还有一个仅限受邀加入：即「The Collective」等级，涵盖 2,500 位超高净值人士。在调整等级体系之前，只有入住酒店的消费才计入会员等级。现在，酒店内的任何消费 —— 无论是水疗中心（许多水疗会员都来自当地社区），还是各类餐厅与酒吧的消费都会被计入。他们是忠实的宾客，我们理应像奖励海外宾客的住宿消费那样，对他们的每一笔消费给予同等的回馈。

这在幕后需要做些什么？

What did that take behind the scenes? A lot of work in the background to fix our data. This industry still runs on a lot of old software systems that most of the time don’t speak to each other. Maybe Mark Hammons had five different profiles because he used different email addresses and different phones. We needed a single profile that is uniquely you, because only then can we store your preferences correctly and serve you accordingly. It’s not your traditional transactional, points-based program. It’s a recognition program, with a lot of moments of generosity and delight in it.

我们需要在后台投入大量精力来整合数据。酒店行业至今仍依赖许多老旧的软件系统，而这些系统往往互不兼容。比如，Mark Hammons 可能会因为使用了不同的电子邮箱和电话号码，而在系统中留下了五个不同的档案。我们需要建立一个独属于你的单一档案，只有这样，我们才能准确记录你的偏好并提供专属服务。这并非传统那种基于交易或积分的会员计划，而是一个旨在认可宾客价值的计划，其中蕴含着许多展现慷慨与带来惊喜的时刻。

你曾提到要给每位管理人员一副「文华东方眼镜」—— 这象征着一种看待世界并以此衡量事物是否契合品牌特质的视角。对于一家快速扩张的公

You talk about handing every manager a pair of Mandarin Oriental glasses: a way of looking at the world and judging what belongs to the brand. How do you keep a fast-growing company seeing things the same way? When I started, I think it was maybe more subjective than objective. What really mattered was being very clear about the filters, and the lens we look through. We developed what we call the brand DNA , four distinct pillars that tell us whether any piece of content, any partnership, program or experience fits the Mandarin Oriental brand. Everybody in a management position gets a pair, because ultimately all fifteen thousand colleagues around the world are brand guardians. As we scale to eighty or a hundred properties, we have to lead that acceleration without standardizing too much, without losing our soul and our identity. The brand is not me. The brand is much bigger than me or anybody else. The only thing I can do is preserve it and leave it in better hands than when I found it.

司而言，你如何确保大家保持一致的视角？刚开始的时候，这种判断或许更多是主观而非客观的。关键在于明确界定那些「过滤机制」，以及观察事物的「镜片」。我们构建了所谓的「品牌 DNA」

—— 即四大核心支柱，以此衡量任何内容、合作伙伴关系、项目或体验是否契合文华东方品牌。每一位管理人员都会获赠这样一副「眼镜」，因为归根结底，全球一万五千名员工都是品牌的守护者。随着业务规模扩展至八十甚至一百家酒店，我们必须引领这种增长，同时避免过度标准化，以免丧失品牌的灵魂与特质。这个品牌并不属于我个人；它远比我或任何人更为宏大。我唯一能做的就是守护好它，并确保在交接时，它已变得比我接手时更加出色。

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Wagyu “Sweet and Sour” Striploin, Harbour Boulevardier, Sham Tseng Style Roast Goose “Bao” 「酸甜」澳洲M5和牛西冷、烟港暮霞、深井烧鹅刈包

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PRESENTED BY MARRIOTT BONVOY

蕴味香港

savoring the city Marriott Bonvoy’s portfolio of hotels in Hong Kong brings together local and global chefs and mixologists to present an exceptional array of dishes, cocktails, and exclusive wine pairing experiences at the Hong Kong Wine & Dine Festival 2026.

A S T H E C I T Y ’ S A N N UA L C E L E B R AT I O N of great wines,

international taste treats, and exciting live performances, the Hong Kong Wine & Dine Festival is set to happen from October 29 to November 1 at the Central Harbourfront. This year, the event-exclusive of ferings of Marriot t Bonvoy’s portfolio of hotels share the theme of “Mountains. Sea. Seasons. The origins of every Hong Kong flavor.” So it’s natural to find local ingredients featured, from Lee Kum Kee plum sauce and marinated pickles to Koon Chun chili-mustard and light soy, Mui Wo Lychee Farm honey, and Pat Chun sweetened vinegar. There’s also an accent on the sustainable ingredient sourcing and culinary practices woven into Marriott’s operations. Marriott International’s Regional Vice President, South China, Hong Kong, Macau, and Taiwan, Richard Boyer “The inspiration for our menu is Hong Kong itself,” says 万豪国际集团南区及港澳台区域副总裁韦博毅 Marriott International’s Regional Vice President, South China, Hong Kong, Macau, and Taiwan, Richard Boyer. “We wanted to celebrate a city shaped by culture, creativity, and diversity by 作为这座城市一年一度汇聚佳酿、国际美馔与精彩现 weaving local ingredients, traditions, and familiar flavors into 场演出的盛事，2026 年香港美酒佳肴巡礼将于 10 月 Western dishes in a contemporary, approachable way.” As a collective expression of the culinary talent across 29 日至 11 月 1 日在中环海滨举行。今年，万豪旅享家旗下参与酒店推出的活动限定 fourteen Hong Kong properties, our menu reflects how each 餐饮以「山海入馔，蕴味香港」为主题，因 chef interprets the city. “At Marriott,” says Boyer, BY 此菜单中自然少不了本地食材的身影 —— “we view innovation as the result of continuous colJULIANA LOH 包括李锦记酸梅酱、冠珍微辛辣芥末酱与 laboration that allows chefs across Hong Kong and 生抽、梅窝荔枝农场蜂蜜以及八珍甜醋。 Greater China to exchange techniques and bring 这也反映了万豪将可持续食材采购与餐饮实践融入运 fresh ideas back to their kitchens. Through platforms like Wine 营之中。 & Dine Festival, our chefs work alongside peers from different 「这份菜单的灵感，正是源自香港。」万豪国际集 hotels and destinations to share concepts, cultural perspectives, 团南区及港澳台区域副总裁韦博毅说道。「我们希望 and culinary mastery.” 以当代而平易近人的方式，把本地食材、传统与熟悉 Among the menu’s twelve dishes is “Burnt Ends” Mac & b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 169

Typhoon Shelter Prawn Taco 避风塘大虾墨西哥玉米饼

Cheese, a universal favorite deliciously topped with a smoky roast of char siu in Mui Wo Lychee Farm honey. Sham Tseng Style Roast Goose “Bao” tucks decadently crispy-skinned roast goose into a soft bao, along with Lee Kum Kee plum sauce, leek, and cucumber. And with wine pairing the name of the game at the festival, Boyer offers advice: “The Roast Goose ‘Bao’ with KendallJackson Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay works beautifully, with the bright fruit and gentle oak lifting the richness of the goose while keeping the palate refreshed.” For dessert, Boyer suggests “Yuen Yeung” Mini Basque Cheesecake, a nod to the iconic cha chaan teng coffee-and-tea blend, made with Plantation Teas black tea and premium local coffee. “I also encourage guests to explore our cocktails inspired by Hong Kong landmarks,” says Boyer. “We asked our mixologists to create drinks that reflect the city through familiar flavors and cultural references.” A case in point is the Cotton Tree Garden Club, inspired by the craftsmanship of legendary Hong Kong knitwear brand Lee Kung Man. Hendrick’s Gin, fresh watermelon, and bright lime deliver a refreshing crispness, while fragrant lychee lends a delicate sweetness and silky texture that evoke the softness of finely crafted cotton. “It’s a wonderful example of how we wanted to go beyond flavor alone and tell a broader story of the city,” says Boyer. Marriott Bonvoy brought together its own culinary artistry and Lee Kung Man’s centuryold textile expertise in an exclusive Wine & Dine Festival partnership to create a collection of co-branded merchandise that celebrates Hong Kong’s uniqueness. Each piece features a wineinspired color palette with rich gradients that echo the evolving hues found in every glass and symbolize the transformation of Hong Kong’s ingredients through time, terroir, and generations of craftsmanship. “What sets Marriott Bonvoy apart at Wine & Dine,” notes Boyer, “is that we offer more than just a menu – we deliver the complete hospitality experience our brand is known for. Our focus is on bringing cuisine, wine, cocktails, and service together into a showcase of Hong Kong’s vibrant culinary culture.”

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的风味融入西式菜肴之中，以此致敬这座由文化、创意与多元共塑而成的城市。」这份菜单由万豪旅享家旗下十四家香港酒店的餐饮人才携手创作，也映照出每位主厨对这座城市的理解。韦博毅指出：「在万豪，我们把创新视为持续协作的成果。这种合作让来自中国香港及大中华区的主厨们得以切磋技艺，并将新灵感带回各自的厨房。通过美酒佳肴巡礼这样的平台，我们的主厨得以与来自不同酒店及目的地的同行并肩合作，分享创意理念、文化视角与烹饪造诣。」菜单共十二道菜，其中最引人注目的是焦香蜜烤叉烧奶酪通心粉。这道广受欢迎的美味，铺上以梅窝荔枝农场蜂蜜酱汁烤制的焦香叉烧，令人食指大动。深井烧鹅刈包则在浓郁与酸爽、酥脆之间取得平衡，将皮脆肉嫩的烧鹅夹入松软刈包，搭配李锦记酸梅酱、京葱与青瓜。本届巡礼以餐酒搭配为亮点，韦博毅也给出建议：「深井烧鹅刈包搭配 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve 霞多丽，堪称绝配。明亮的果香与柔和橡木气息既能托起烧鹅的丰腴，又能让味蕾保持清新。」

PRESENTED BY MARRIOTT BONVOY

Lobster Bun, XO Aioli, Star Ferry Spritz 龙虾包配XO蛋黄酱、星轮漫游

“What sets Marriott Bonvoy apart at Wine & Dine is that we offer more than just a menu – we deliver the complete hospitality experience our brand is known for.

万豪旅享家在美酒佳肴巡礼的与众不同之处，在于我们提供的不只是一份菜单，而是品牌闻名的完整待客体验。” Richard Boyer 韦博毅

甜品方面，韦博毅提议尝试港式「鸳鸯」迷你巴斯克奶酪蛋糕，以 Plantation 茶庄精选红茶与本地优质咖啡制成，呼应经典茶餐厅咖啡与奶茶的完美结合。韦博毅说：「我也鼓励宾客试试我们以香港地标为灵感的鸡尾酒。我们请调酒师创作出能透过熟悉风味与文化记忆映照这座城市精神的饮品。」灵感来自香港经典针织品牌利工民传奇工艺的「棉园雅聚」便是一例。它以

Hendrick’s 琴酒为基底，混合新鲜西瓜与清新青柠，带来令人神清气爽的清脆口感；而芳香的荔枝则赋予其细腻的甜美与丝滑质感，让人联想起高级精裁棉织品的柔和触感。韦博毅说：「这是一个很好的例子，反映我们希望不只停留在风味层面，能进一步讲述香港更宏阔的故事。」在与美酒佳肴巡礼的独家合作中，万豪将自身餐饮艺术与利工民百年纺织技艺结合，推出一系列联名商品，致敬香港的独特魅力。每件作品都采用以葡萄酒为灵感的配色，以丰富渐变的色调呼应杯中不断流转的色泽，也象征香港食材在时间、风土与世代匠心中经历的蜕变。韦博毅表示：「万豪旅享家在美酒佳肴巡礼的与众不同之处，在于我们提供的不只是一份菜单，而是品牌闻名的完整待客体验。我们专注于将美食、葡萄酒、鸡尾酒与服务汇聚一体，呈献香港生机勃勃的饮食文化。」 b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 171

PRESENTED BY ALILA KOTHAIFARU MALDIVES

赤足奢华

barefoot luxury Alila Kothaifaru Maldives, a Hyatt resort, offers a serene island retreat with sumptuous accommodations and personalized experiences rooted in an authentic sense of place.

Luxury eco-minimalist accommodations blend with the natural setting. 奢华简约的生态居所，与自然融为一体。

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GU E S T S at Alila Kothaifaru Maldives continually find themselves in quiet moments of connection with the captivating natural rhythms of beautiful Raa Atoll, a sundrenched paradise of endless blue sea, lush jungle, and vibrant reef. It begins with indulgent accommodations designed for relaxation in harmony with nature. Eco-minimalist hideaways, created for expansive indoor-outdoor living, blend with the island setting and feature contemporary interiors with calming colors and natural textures. Positioned for the utmost in seclusion and comfort, each one comes with its own private pool and direct beach access. The range of roomy one-bedroom beach villas and dramatic stilt-supported overwater villas, as well as the new two-bedroom beach villas and the exclusive, ultra-spacious Boduge Residence, make Alila Kothaifaru Maldives the ideal luxury destination for families or groups of friends. Wellness is intimate and nature-centric with Spa Alila. Signature must-dos include the Sacred Coconut Ritual, the Maldives Indulgence Spa Journey, and Sunrise Yoga & Meditation, along with private restorative sessions and personalized therapies, all inspired by island themes and holistic traditions and designed toward balance and renewal. Dining becomes delectable storytelling with private sandbank dinners at The Shack or interactive teppanyaki at Umami. Locally grown ingredients transform into exciting flavors at chef-led Maldivian cooking classes and the unique Garden-to-Table Yakitori Dining Experience. The resort ’s

Sand, sea, and sky meet in a lush island paradise. 沙滩、海洋与天际，交织成一片绿意盎然的岛屿天堂。

p o p u l a r n ew d a i l y H a l f B o a rd Sp e c ia l includes breakfast at Seasalt restaurant and dinner at Seasalt, Pibati Sul Mare, Yakitori Bar, or Umami (excluding teppanyaki), or an optional USD75 food credit for dining at any other venue. For the ultimate Maldives immersion, it’s Ocean & Island Discovery, a blend of adventure and serious conservation that explores the island’s natural and cultural riches, bringing guests up close and personal to its diverse marine life and ecology. Activities range from the Private Snorkeling Journey to the Big 5 of Raa Atoll, a thrilling encounter with manta rays, dolphins, sharks, rays, and sea turtles. Other options include the Thila Diving Experience, the Coral Restoration Programme, the Nature & Island Discovery Walk, and a hop to any of twenty-eight nearby uncrowded dive sites for experiences led by dive partner Euro-Divers. Plenty of family-friendly fun, like Play Alila kids’ club, ensures that guests of all ages will depart Alila Kothaifaru Maldives with a lifetime of golden island memories.

在阿丽拉马尔代夫科泰法鲁（Alila Kothaifaru Maldives），宾客总会在不经意间邂逅拉环礁令人沉醉的自然脉动 —— 阳光倾洒的无垠碧海、葱郁丛林，以及生机盎然的珊瑚礁。这一切始于与自然和谐共栖的惬意居所。生态极简风格的隐逸之所，以开阔的室内外通透格局融入岛屿原生景致，当代风格内饰则缀以沉静色调与天然材质。别墅皆坐落于私密与舒适兼备的绝佳位置，并配有私人泳池及直通沙滩的通道。无论是宽敞的一卧室海滩别墅、高踞海上的水上别墅，还是全新推出的两卧室海滩别墅，以及极尽宽敞、独占一方的博德格公寓，阿丽拉马尔代夫科泰法鲁皆为亲友同游打造了理想中的奢享目的地。康体体验以自然为核心。阿丽拉水疗中心以岛屿主题与整体养生哲学为灵感，呈献神圣椰子焕活仪式、马尔代夫奢华水疗之旅、日出瑜伽与冥想课程等招牌疗程，同时亦提供私人焕活课程与定制理疗项目。餐饮则化作一席流动的味觉叙事 —— 于 The Shack 的私人沙礁享用晚餐，或在 Umami 体验互动式铁板烧。马尔代夫烹饪课程与独特的「从花园到餐桌」烧鸟体验，将当地时令食材转化为令人惊艳的风味。度假村全新推出的半食宿礼遇包括在 Seasalt 海盐餐厅享用早餐，及在 Seasalt 海盐餐厅、Pibati Sul Mare、Yakitori Bar 或 Umami（铁板烧除外）这几间餐厅任选其一来享用晚餐；还可选择获得 75 美元餐饮额度，用于酒店内其他任一餐饮场所消费。「海洋与岛屿探索」项目融合冒险精神与自然保育。宾客透过探索岛屿的自然与文化珍宝，近距离感受这里丰富多元的海洋生态。活动涵盖私人浮潜之旅、拉环礁五大野生动物（蝠鲼、海豚、鲨鱼、鳐鱼及海龟）奇遇之旅、蒂拉潜水体验、珊瑚修复计划、自然与岛屿探索徒步，以及在潜水合作伙伴 Euro-Divers 的引领下，探访周边 28 个远离喧嚣的潜水点。度假村亦设有多项适合家庭同乐的活动，例如 Play Alila 儿童俱乐部，确保每一个年龄段的宾客都能在此留下满载金色阳光的海岛记忆。 b e t w e e n s k y a n d e a r t h | T K | 173

H K D 200 | M O P 200 | R M B 200 | N T D 810 | S G D 3 5 | U S D 26 | G B P 20

T A S T I N G 62

K I T C H E N A

ISLA DEL COCODRILO Cuba’s Liquid Essence 醇香之魂

CENTRO HABANA Crazy Dreams 狂野之梦

CUBA Perfectly Imperfect 不完之美

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