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TK64 Where Currents Meet

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TASTINGKITCHEN WHERE CURRENTS MEET 64

Tasting Kitchen (TK), Asia’s epicurean lifestyle media group, leads the way to the world’s best in food and drink, art and design, and luxury travel adventures. Tasting Kitchen (TK) 是亚太地区最具前瞻性的奢华生活方式品牌 , 荟萃全球高品质的生活文化,艺术设计,以及舌尖上的梦幻美味。

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Mark Hammons

FOUNDER & PUBLISHER

创办人兼出版人 mark@tasting-kitchen.com

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副出版人兼主编 joey@tasting-kitchen.com

Lauriane Lemaire

MANAGING DIRECTOR

常务董事 lauriane@tasting-kitchen.com

Mamie Chen

Marilyn Burkley

Robert Burkley

Zita Wan

SENIOR EDITORS

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Kate Nicholson

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

ART AND DESIGN

特约编辑-艺术设计专栏

Regina Li

CHINESE EDITOR

中文编辑

David Hartung DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY 摄影总监

J. Carl Kerkman, MFA IMAGE EDITOR

图像编辑

Jin Lao IMAGE TECHNICIAN 图像技术员

Vivian Pun DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER 数字媒体经理

Victoria Lei PROJECT MANAGER 项目经理

ON THE COVER Photography by David Hartung

In a one-second exposure, TK Director of Photography David Hartung captures the movement of a train speeding through a tunnel during his ten-day trek along the Michinoku Coastal Trail in Japan’s Iwate Prefecture.

TK摄影总监David Hartung在岩手县陆奥潮风步道十日徒 步中,以一秒曝光捕捉到列车穿隧而过的瞬间。

Alicia Beebe ART DIRECTOR 艺术总监

Lucy Morgan

BUREAU CHIEF, PARIS

巴黎区编辑主管

Alice Liang

Andrew Lo

Chris Dwyer

Joyce Kwok

Miyako Kai

Nissa Marion

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特約作家

Jaakko Sorsa OCEAN TABLE EXECUTIVE CHEF OCEAN TABLE 行政总厨 jaakko@tasting-kitchen.com

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葡萄酒及烈酒总监

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DASSAI

WELCOME TO TK64, Where Currents Meet

This issue began with a walk.

TK Director of Photography David Hartung spent ten days alone on Japan’s Michinoku Trail, following the northeastern coast of Honshu through fishing villages still rebuilding from the 2011 tsunami.

In the small community of Okirai, he met Waichi-san, a lifelong resident who watched the wave take his town, then built a gathering place from the debris it left behind. He named it Shiome – the junction where ocean currents converge – a spot where people from everywhere could meet and share their thoughts.

That word – that idea – became the theme of these pages.

Jay Khan, whose bar Coa topped Asia’s 50 Best Bars three years running, opened his first photography exhibition this spring. Here was a current that began on a TK assignment to Mexico in 2017, when David looked through Jay’s snapshots and told him he had a good eye.

In Macau, five chefs holding fourteen stars between them converged at a single table to mark a century of the Michelin star with one course for each of the five senses.

And Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants brought its ceremony to Hong Kong for the first time, crowning two visions of Chinese cuisine – The Chairman and Wing – that share one tower, twentysix floors apart.

At Ocean Table, TK’s own performing arts gathering place, pianist Alice Sara Ott and cellist Kian Soltani traded the grandeur of a concert hall for the intimacy of a salon. When I asked for her thoughts on what she is reaching for, Alice said it’s about closing the distance between the audience, the stage, and the instrument.

Whatever current now carries you, smooth, rough, or uncharted, steer steady and hold tight.

欢迎阅读 TK 第 64 期《潮目》。

本期始于一场徒步之旅。

TK 摄影总监 David Hartung 独自踏 上日本陆奥潮风步道,徒步十天,沿本州 岛东北海岸前行,穿过一个个仍在 2011 年海啸后重建中的渔村。

在越喜来的小社区,他遇见了「和 一桑」。这位在当地住了一辈子的老人眼 看着巨浪卷走自己的小镇,之后在海啸留 下的废墟,建起了一处供人相聚的地方。 他将这里命名为「潮目」 意为洋 流在海上交汇之处 让来自四面八方的 人在此相遇,分享彼此所知。 这个词,成为了这一期的写照。

Jay Khan 的酒吧 Coa 曾连续三年位 居「亚洲 50 最佳酒吧」榜首。今年春天, 他举办了自己的首次摄影个展 源头始 于 2017 年,那一年他随 TK 远赴墨西哥进 行拍摄,David 翻看他的照片后对他说:「你 拍照有眼光。」

在澳门,五位共揽十四颗星的名厨 在同一张餐桌前,共庆米其林星徽诞生 一百周年 一道菜,唤醒一种感官。

「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」首次将颁奖典 礼带到香港,大班楼与「永」包揽前两 名 两种中餐的诠释共处一厦,相隔 二十六层。

在 TK 的演艺空间 Ocean Table,钢 琴家 Alice Sara Ott 与大提琴家 Kian Soltani 把音乐厅的恢宏,换成了沙龙的 亲密。

我问 Alice,她所追求的是什么。她说, 是拉近观众、舞台与乐器之间的距离。 无论此刻载你前行的是怎样的潮 流 或缓,或急,或未知 稳住方向, 握紧舵把。

请享受悦读时光。

Founder and Publisher

12 Power and Awe • 16 Down to Cases • 20 Hand-Tufted Facades

22 Space and Season • 24 Shades of Hong Kong • 40 Japan Wayfarer

72 When Stars Align • 88 The Dragon Rising

100 Precision, Finesse, Artistry • 104 Reimagination with Finesse • 106 Hallowed Alliance

110 Passing the Plate • 114 Cheese, Please • 116 In Full Bloom • 118 Sun-Drenched Plates • 124 Rituals Recomposed 130 Warm Desires • 132 Pond and Tower • 136 Escape to Serenity • 140 From Snow to Sake 146 MENA’s New Flavors • 152 Closing the Distance • 158 The Translator • 164 Gnome Sweet Home

敬畏之笔

power and awe

Blending mythological imagery with contemporary practice, Tomiyuki Kaneko’s monumental paintings reveal potent deities that inhabit the boundaries between worlds.

Gion Daimyoujin, 2024, mineral pigments, Japanese ink, transparent watercolor, pen, sacred water, foil on Japanese paper, 460 x 640 cm 《祇园大明神》,2024年,矿物颜料、日本墨、透明水彩、钢笔、圣水、箔于和纸,460 x 640 厘米

JAPANESE ARTIST Tomiyuki Kaneko has filled notebooks with drawings and writings since junior high school. “It’s an act of approaching my true self, of exploration,” he says, “and it grounds my creative work as a lifework.” Though these personal musings are central to his practice, his diverse influences include ukiyo-e Japanese prints of deities, the Rimpa school, and animations.

Indeed, Tomiyuki Kaneko’s art – from painted stones, papiermâché masks, and Daruma figures to immense canvases multiple meters tall – typically manifests as images of beings that inhabit the world’s liminal spaces. “I feel that every land, plant, and even stone is inhabited by one of the many millions of deities, and that they protect the environment in which we live,” he explains. “The power that ancient people revered continues to deeply influence us today and nurture our creativity.”

日本艺术家金子富之从初中时代起便在笔记本上 记录绘画与文字。他说:「这是一种接近真实自我 的行为,是一种探索。它也是我创作的根基,是我 毕生的事业。」尽管这些个人沉思是其创作的核心, 但他的多元影响来源还包括浮世绘、日本神像版画、 琳派艺术以及动画作品。

事实上,金子富之的艺术 从彩绘石头、纸 浆面具和达摩像,到高达数米的巨幅画 布 通常以栖居于世界阈限空间的神 灵形象呈现。他解释:「我感到每一寸 土地、每一株植物,甚至每一块石头, 都被无数神明中的其中一位所守护,它们保护着我 们赖以生存的环境。古人所敬畏的力量至今仍深深 影响着我们,滋养着我们的创造力。」

There’s no denying the otherworldliness of the three enormous paintings headlining his recent solo exhibition, Breath of Susanoo, held at Mizuma Art Gallery in Tokyo in April and May.

今年四月和五月,他在东京 Mizuma 美术馆 举办的个展《须佐之男的气息》中,三幅巨型画作 展现了超凡的脱俗之感。金子富之说道:「面对庞 大之物,我们会感受到一种压倒性的力量、亢奋与

Previous Page: Sun and Moon Snakeheads Obanshin, 2026, mineral pigments, Japanese ink, transparent watercolor, acrylic, pen, Hita Tenryosui water on Japanese paper, 460 x 640 cm 《日月蛇头黄幡神》,2026年,矿物颜料、日本墨、透明水彩、丙烯、钢笔、日田天领水于和纸,460 x 640 厘米

《建速须佐之男》,2025年,矿物颜料、日本墨、透明水彩、丙烯、钢笔、日田天领水、贝壳粉、箔于和纸,460 x 640 厘米

“We feel a sense of overwhelming power, exhilaration, and awe in the face of huge things,” says Kaneko. Each canvas, measuring 4.6 by 6.4 meters, was made with an astonishing variety of materials, from Japanese ink to acrylic paint to Hita Tenryosui spring water, which, he says, he uses to “create a connection between the artwork and the local environment rooted in our sense of awe toward nature and the divine.”

In his work Takehaya Susanoo, the undrawn sword of Susanoo, the Shinto deity of storms, sea, and agriculture, symbolizes calm and control amid a tempestuous domain. The god’s nonaction is influenced by Kaneko’s aikido practice: “I believe that harmonizing with others is more fruitful for creativity than fighting and winning. The aikido concept of Takemusu Aiki translates to art as the moment when ideas flow one after another, or the state where the brush moves on its own without conscious thought. If I could master that kind of aiki, I might be able to create works that get closer to the essence of things.”

Further syncretions of Susanoo in Japanese religious history are represented in the other large-scale works of the trio, Gion Daimyoujin, depicting a wrathful deity, and Sun and Moon Snakeheads Obanshin, whose origins lie in an ancient Indian serpent god called Rahu. “Sometimes, when I sense something, I look up which deity or spirit might best express this feeling,” says Kaneko. “If my work isn’t guided by my own heart, I lose my balance. My ideal state is when I can pour my soul into painting exactly what I want to paint.”

敬畏。」每幅画作尺寸为 4.6 米乘 6.4 米,使 用了令人惊叹的多样材料,从日本墨到丙烯颜 料,再到日田天领水。他表示,使用这种泉水 是为了将作品和这片土地连结起来,而这种联 系根植于我们对自然与神明的敬畏。

在他的作品《建速须佐之男》中,须佐之 男 这位掌管风暴、海洋与农耕的神道教 神明 并没有抽出他的剑,这象征着在狂 风暴雨之境中的平静与克制。这位神明的「无 为」受到金子富之练习合气道的影响:「我相信, 与他人和谐共处比争斗取胜更有利于创作。合 气道中『武产合气』的概念,体现在艺术中便 是灵感接连不断涌现的瞬间,或画笔在无意 识中自行运转的状态。如果我能掌握『合气』, 或许就能创作出更接近事物本质的作品。」

在日本宗教史中,须佐之男的其他融合形 态也体现在该系列另外两幅大型作品中:一幅 描绘了愤怒神明的《祇园大明神》,以及源自 古代印度蛇神罗睺的《日月蛇头黄幡神》。金子 富之说:「有时,当我感知到某种东西时,我 会去寻找哪位神祇或精灵最能表达这种感觉。 如果我的作品不是由内心引导,我就会失去平 衡。我的理想状态是能够将灵魂倾注于画笔, 画出我真正想画的东西。」

Takehaya Susanoo, 2025, mineral pigments, Japanese ink, transparent watercolor, acrylic, pen, Hita Tenryosui water, shell powder, foil on Japanese paper, 460 x 640 cm

別具一格

Karimoku Case’s latest project at a Swedish vineyard, led by Norm Architects, turns an existing structure into an invitingly intimate reception space.

The solid wood N-ST04 side table, designed by Norm Architects for Vinhuset at Ästad Vingård, is reminiscent of a Japanese torii gate.

由Norm Architects为位于Ästad Vingård的Vinhuset 设计的实木N-ST04边桌,令人联想起日本鸟居。

The N-CT02 coffee table in the center of the lounge was designed by Norm Architects for Restaurang ÄNG. 位于休息室中央的N-CT02咖啡桌,由Norm Architects为Restaurang ÄNG设计。

IN A UNIQUE APPROACH to product development, Karimoku Case, a contemporary lifestyle and furniture brand based in Japan, creates collections that emerge from what they call “Cases” – real-world design projects, led by international architects, that foster ongoing experimentation. These span luxury residences, restaurants, hotels, retail stores, and, most recently, Ästad Vingård, an estate vineyard with spa and hospitality facilities in the Swedish countryside.

Introduced in late 2025, the latest project at the vineyard, CASE 12, named Vinhuset, focused on the reworking of a former service building into a wellness and social destination. It follows two other projects at the same property led by Karimoku Case collaborator Norm Architects, a design studio based in Denmark: CASE 06, the Michelin-starred Restaurang ÄNG, and Sjöparken, a lakeside retreat with multiple guesthouses.

源自日本的 Karimoku Case 是一个现代生活风格 与家具品牌,其产品开发手法独树一帜。品牌以 「专案打造」为核心,推出一系列作品。这些案例 是由国际建筑师掌舵且持续进行的实验计划,涵 盖豪华住宅、餐厅、酒店、零售商店,以及最近在 瑞典乡间打造的 Ästad Vingård 葡萄庄园,该庄园 亦设有水疗与酒店设施。

The interior of the Vinhuset revitalization, conceived as a living room-like setting, operates at a much more intimate scale than the building or even the wider property that envelopes it. The furniture, either selected from the existing Karimoku Case collection, designed by collaborative partners Keiji Ashizawa Design (KAD) and Norm Architects, or conceptualized specifically for the project, follows the same reasoning. “We sought to create pieces that supported dwelling rather than just seating,” notes Frederik Werner, design director at Karimoku Case and designer and partner at Norm Architects. It’s “furniture that makes you want to stay.”

最新完成的葡萄园项目 Vinhuset (案例 12)于 2025 年底登场,将原有 的服务建筑改造为一处兼具康体与社 交功能的场所。在此之前,Karimoku Case 的合作伙伴、丹麦设计工作室 Norm Architects 已于同一个地点完成另外两件作品:米 其林星级餐厅 Restaurang ÄNG(案例 06),以及 由多栋独立客舍组成的湖畔度假居所 Sjöparken。 Vinhuset 的室内设计以「客厅」为概念,营 造出比建筑本身甚至其周边环境更为私密的氛围。 家具的设计理念亦与之呼应,一部分选自由合作 伙伴芦沢启治建筑设计事务所与 Norm Architects 共同设计的现有系列,另一部分则为本案专属构思。 Karimoku Case 设计总监、Norm Architects 设计 师兼合伙人 Frederik Werner 表示:「我们追求的 是营造居家氛围的家具,而不仅仅是座椅。这样 的家具,会让人舍不得离开。」

N-ST04 边桌是 Norm Architects 为 Vinhuset

The dining table, a prototype model by Norm Architects for Vinhuset, shares subtle design DNA with N-CT02 coffee table and is paired with Karimoku Case’s N-DC06 dining chairs.

这张餐桌是Norm Architects为Vinhuset设计的原型,与N-CT02咖啡 桌有着微妙的共通之处,并搭配Karimoku Case的N-DC06餐椅。

The N-SW01 swivel chair, designed by Norm Architects for Bellustar Tokyo, returns to its original position when not in use.

由Norm Architects为 Bellustar Tokyo设计的 N-SW01旋转椅,不使用时 会自动回复至初始位置。

The N-ST04 Side Table is a Norm Architects-designed Vinhuset piece that made it into production. Crafted from deep-hued solid wood, the slightly angled legs support a pebble-like tabletop. When viewed head-on, the shape is reminiscent of Japanese torii gates. The edges of the side table, which form soft contours rather than harsh angles, diffuse the light in a way that emphasizes the natural origins of the material. The sense of roundness continues in the N-DC06 Dining Chair, also designed for CASE 12 and now in production. The solid wood chair’s deeply curved backrest is as supportive as it is sculptural, and the sabulous hues of its textile seat are echoed throughout the space, in the lighting fixtures, the planters, and the walls themselves. The hourglass shape of the chair encourages a leisurely approach, with trickling sand rather than ticking clocks marking the passage of time.

There’s a cohesive character to the furniture designed or selected for Vinhuset. “The red thread we wanted to carry forward was clarity of form, tactile materiality, restraint with warmth, and an honest dialogue with the surroundings,” Werner notes. “What we’re interested in is a shared sensibility that makes different pieces feel as though they belong to the space, the property, the area, and the craft traditions in general.” For Werner, this is most clearly reflected in Vinhuset’s seating family of dining and lounge chairs and barstools that collectively express the project’s ethos: “I think they strike an interesting balance between traditional Scandinavian design – placing it well within both Vinhuset itself and also the location of Ästad in general – and a layer of refined Japanese details and proportions.”

What makes the CASE 12 creations, as well as the wider evolving Karimoku Case collections, stand out in the luxury furniture sector is the rare, long-term, deeply iterative working relationship between designer and maker shaped over time through collaboration and exchange. “There’s a continuous back-and-forth around proportions, construction logic, and material behavior,” says Werner. “Karimoku Furniture’s craftspeople have the instinct and know-how for what will survive fabrication and what won’t. That feedback is invaluable and it genuinely shapes the design, not just the production.”

设计的量产作品。它以深色实木制成,微倾 的桌腿承托着鹅卵石般的桌面。正面观之, 形似日本鸟居。它的边缘柔和流畅,而非棱 角分明,能轻巧地散射光线,展现木材的天 然质感。这份圆润也延续至现已投入生产、 为案例 12 而设计的 N-DC06 餐椅。实木椅的 弧形椅背兼具舒适与雕塑感,织物座垫的柔 和色调与空间中的灯具、花器、墙面等元素 相互呼应。椅身的沙漏形态,营造出一种悠 然自得的氛围,仿佛时间的流逝不再由滴答 的钟表计量,而是由缓缓流下的细沙所度量。 Vinhuset 的家具,无论设计或选配,风 格皆浑然一体。Frederik 指出:「我们希望 贯穿始终的主线是清晰的造型、触感丰富 的材质、内敛而温暖的气质,以及与环境之 间真诚的对话。我们追求的是一种共通的审 美,让不同家具仿佛与空间、建筑、周边地 区及传统工艺融为一体。」在 Frederik 看来, Vinhuset 的座椅系列 包括餐椅、休闲椅 与吧台椅 最能体现这一点,它们共同诠 释了这个项目的精神:「它们巧妙融合了传统 的北欧设计 既与 Vinhuset 本身契合,也 与 Ästad 的所在地相得益彰,还融合了精致 的日式细节与比例。」 Vinhuset(案例 12)的系列作品以及持 续扩展的 Karimoku Case 系列,之所以能在 高端家具领域独树一帜,在于设计师与工匠 之间罕见的长期、深入且不断迭代的合作关 系。这份关系是在协作与交流中逐步酝酿而 成。Frederik 说:「我们反覆推敲比例、结构 逻辑与材料特性。Karimoku Furniture 的工匠 拥有敏锐的直觉与丰富的经验,能够判断哪 些材料经得起制作考验。这些反馈极为珍贵, 真正塑造了设计,而不仅是完成生产。」

建「触」交错

hand-tufted facades

Kengo Kuma’s Faces Collection for Jaipur Rugs transmutes the renowned architect’s building facades into artisanal carpets inspired by traditional principles of Japanese design.

Kasane in Bluebell/Aqua Foam, the only green-hued rug in the collection, was displayed at the Crespi Bonsai Museum near Milan. 系列中唯一一款绿色调地毯 Kasane(蓝铃花/水波纹),曾在米 兰附近的克雷斯皮盆景博物馆展出。

Japanese architect Kengo Kuma

日本建筑师隈研吾

ARCHITECTURE OFTEN FOCUSES on facades, but in Japanese architect Kengo Kuma’s oeuvre, they remain subtle features gracefully integrated into the landscape. Like a face, a facade is nothing without the details that define it. And it is those often overlooked elements that matter implicitly to Kuma and that are highlighted in Faces, a collection of sixteen hand-tufted wool and regenerated viscose carpets he designed with Jaipur Rugs and exhibited at the Crespi Bonsai Museum during Salone del Mobile Milano in April.

The luxury rug maker, founded in 1978 by Nand Kishore Chaudhary, has collaborated with many leading creators, including artist Princess Pea (Natasha Preenja), designer Richard Hutten, sculptor Matteo Cibic, and publisher Bodour bint Sultan Al Qasimi, to alchemize their concepts into textiles. “With Faces, we’re not translating architecture into rugs,” says Jaipur Rugs Managing Director Yogesh Chaudhary. “We’re translating a way of seeing. Kengo Kuma’s work is deeply emotional yet restrained, and through our artisans, we’ve reinterpreted that sensitivity into something tactile, human, and lived-in.”

Each rug in the Faces Collection references a traditional Japanese architectural principle embodied in a Kumadesigned building, a “tactile memory” of a place or space, as he puts it. One example is Kasane, a carpet featuring layered architectural lines in gray, sand, and slate overlaying blocks of soft, foliage-like greens and earthy browns. It was inspired by the facade of the wing of France’s Musée Albert-Kahn that Kuma designed in 2022. The rug condenses a dramatic exterior and its surroundings into something quieter for the home. And because rugs come into direct contact with the body, incorporating elements from nature was essential for Kuma.

建筑设计往往只关注外立面,但在日本建筑师隈研吾的作 品中,外立面却巧妙地融入景观之中,成为微妙的点缀。

如同面孔,外立面若缺乏细节,便失去了其本质。这些 常被忽视的元素对隈研吾而言至关重要,并反映在他与 Jaipur Rugs 合作设计的 Faces(意为「面孔」)系列地毯中。

该系列包括十六款手工簇绒羊毛和再生粘胶纤维地毯,于 四月米兰国际家具展期间在克雷斯皮盆景博物馆展出。

这家奢华地毯制造商由 Nand Kishore Chaudhary 于 1978 年创立,它曾与艺术家 Princess Pea(Natasha Preenja)、设计师 Richard Hutten、雕塑家 Matteo Cibic 和出版人 Bodour bint Sultan Al Qasimi 等众多顶尖创作 者合作,将他们的理念融入纺织品设计中。Jaipur Rugs 总 经理 Yogesh Chaudhary 表示:「Faces 系列并非将建筑转 化为地毯,而是诠释一种观看方式。隈研吾的作品情感深 沉而内敛,我们通过工匠们的巧手,将这种细 腻感重新诠释为触感丰富、充满人性且富有生 活气息的艺术品。」

When working with Jaipur Rugs master artisans in Rajasthan, who employ centuries-old techniques, Kuma found that the pieces seemed to grow out of a living exchange rather than a static manufacturing process. It reminded him of craftspeople in Japanese villages of old who similarly achieved the sublime with just their hands and simple tools. These Rajasthani artisans are honored in the very name of the collaborative collection: “Faces” points not just to architectural features but to the many people involved in handcrafting each carpet.

Faces 系列中的每一款地毯都借鉴了隈研 吾设计的建筑中所体现的日本传统建筑原则,正如他所说, 是某个场所或空间的「触觉记忆」。例如,Kasane 地毯以 灰色、沙色和石板色层叠的建筑线条为特色,其上覆盖着 如树叶般柔和的翠绿和泥土般深沉的棕色色块。它的灵 感源自隈研吾于 2022 年设计的法国阿尔伯特 卡恩博物 馆的翼楼外立面。这款地毯将其气势恢宏的外观及周围环 境浓缩成一种宁静的家居装饰。由于地毯与人体直接接触, 融入自然元素对隈研吾而言至关重要。

在与拉贾斯坦邦的 Jaipur Rugs 地毯工匠大师合作 时,隈研吾发现这些地毯的制作过程并非静态的生产流 程,而是源于鲜活的交流。这些工匠沿用传承数百年的 技艺。这让他想起了日本古代乡村的匠人,他们同样仅凭 双手和简单的工具就创造出精美绝伦的作品。Faces(面 孔) 这个联名系列的名字,藏着两层意思:既是建筑 的细节,更是向每一位亲手织出这张地毯的拉贾斯坦尼 工匠的致敬。

想时空间

space and season

At SoNoMa, design and seasonal cuisine converge to guide an intimate omakase experience.

CAPELLA KYOTO, the luxury hotel that opened in March in the city’s Miyagawa-chō geisha district, was built on the grounds of a nineteenth-century elementary school and features an exterior designed by Japanese “starchitect” Kengo Kuma. Culinary headliner of the property is SoNoMa by SingleThread, a thirty-twoseat omakase-style restaurant helmed by Chef Keita Tominaga and developed in partnership with Kyle and Katina Connaughton of three-Michelin-star SingleThread in California’s Sonoma County.

Guests can expect reflections of Kyoto’s Kansai region as well as Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley in both the design and the elevated amalgam of local seasonal fare. “The California influence comes through in the openness, warmth, and farm-driven spirit of the experience,” says Robert Cheng, founder and principal of Brewin Design Office, the studio that conceived Capella Kyoto’s interiors, “and the Japanese aspect is expressed through proportion, materiality,

京都嘉佩乐酒店于今年三月在京都宫川町艺伎 区开业。酒店前身是一所十九世纪的小学,其外 观由日本建筑大师隈研吾设计。酒店的餐饮亮点 是「想乃间 SoNoMa by SingleThread 」 一家 设有 32 个座位的厨师发办餐厅,由主厨富永圭太 掌勺,并与美国加州索诺玛米其林三 星餐厅 SingleThread 的 Kyle 和 Katina Connaughton 夫妇合作打造。

无论是餐厅的设计,还是融合当 地时令食材的精致菜肴,都能让宾客感受到京都 关西地区与索诺玛县干溪谷的风情。「加州的影子 体现在餐厅的开放、温暖和质朴的田园气息中。」 Brewin Design Office 的创始人兼负责人 Robert Cheng 说道,该事务所负责京都嘉佩乐酒店的室内 设计。「而日式元素则通过比例、材质、光影、空 间过渡方式,以及用餐仪式感来展现。」用餐体验

shadow, threshold, and the sense of ceremony around the meal.” The dining adventure moves from a salon-like lounge and bar full of locally sourced antiques and curios to a counter hidden behind a sliding screen. “The shift in mood is immediate,” says Cheng. “The counter itself is designed as an extension of the kitchen – open, precise, with everything visible and within reach. Lighting is low and layered, coming from multiple sources at human scale rather than from above, which gives the room a warmth that feels private and intimate.”

SoNoMa’s ambience is defined by restraint. Light-hued timbers, plaster, stone, and textiles set a quiet backdrop, and the furniture directs attention to the counter, the chefs, and the courtyard. Sharing the same philosophy are tableware and glassware crafted by Hasu Yoshitaka, Kojima Kenji and Kojima Yosuke, SUS Gallery, and Kimura Glass. Like the property’s all-day French brasserie, Lanterne, SoNoMa overlooks an inner courtyard. This was an important design consideration, because, says Cheng, SingleThread’s “philosophy revolves around seasonality and a connection to what’s growing and developing. Guests experience the light shifting through the evening and the plantings changing through the year.”

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Capella Kyoto’s inner courtyard 京都嘉佩乐酒店的内部庭院

从一个摆满当地古董和珍奇物品的沙龙休息室 和酒吧开始,过渡到隐藏在滑动屏风后的吧台。 Robert 说:「氛围的转变是瞬间发生的。吧台 本身的设计理念是厨房的延伸 开放、精准, 所有物品清晰可见、触手可及。灯光低调而层 次分明,来自多个与人眼高度相宜的光源,而非 从上方直射,这赋予了房间私密而温馨的氛围。」

餐厅的氛围以克制为特色。浅色木材、灰 泥、石材和纺织品营造出宁静的氛围,家具的 摆放则将人们的注意力引向吧台、厨师和庭院。 由莲善隆、小岛健治、小岛阳介、SUS Gallery 及木村硝子店等设计的餐具和玻璃器皿,也与 酒店的美学理念相互呼应。与酒店全天候营业 的法式小酒馆 Lanterne 一样,想乃间也俯瞰着 内部庭院。Robert 指出,这是一个重要的设计 考量,因为 SingleThread 的理念围绕着季节性 以及与自然生长节奏之间的联系。宾客可以在 此体验夜晚光线的变化,以及植物随季节更迭 的景象。

Nature spreads its leafy limbs indoors at Lanterne. 法式小酒馆Lanterne绿意盎然。

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SoNoMa’s twelve-seat omakase counter 想乃间的十二席厨师发办吧台

SHADES OF

HONG KONG

PHOTOGRAPHY

THIS SPRING, twenty-one black-and-white prints line the walls of Sin Sin Fine Art in Wong Chuk Hang, each photo capturing a quiet moment in the city. The exhibition, Pouring Shadow: Contrast and Balance, marks the first solo show of Jay Khan, founder of Coa and a man better known for what he shakes and pours into a glass than for framing images under glass. Coa, in fact, held first place on Asia’s 50 Best Bars list for three consecutive years from 2021.

Khan’s romance with photography began with a journey in 2017, a TK-sponsored trip to Mexico, home of the agave spirits that Coa would build its identity around. He traveled alongside TK Director of Photography David Hartung, the award-winning pro who had been shooting Khan’s cocktails for years. The assignment’s brief was clear: distilleries, palenques, the world of mezcal up close and in a nutshell. For Khan, something else was going on. He had packed a small camera with no real intention of using it for anything beyond snapshots. “I didn’t take photography seriously back then,” he says. “I just followed the team and watched how they worked.” That in itself was new. It was the first time he had observed a professional photographer in the field day after day. At some point on the trip, Hartung looked through Khan’s photos and said simply, you have a good eye. The remark seemed insignificant at the time.

The turning point came during the pandemic. With bars closed and the city slowing down, Khan picked up the camera to give himself something to do. He was fascinated with street photography because it was right at hand – he could just walk out the door. He kept following the same route – and does so even now – from Jordan north through Sham Shui Po, past wet markets, aging buildings, and the rougher textures of an older Hong Kong, slowly working out what he was looking for.

今年春天,在黄竹坑 Sin Sin Fine Art 的白墙上, 挂起了一整面共二十一帧黑白照片,在这座向 来嘈杂的城市里框住一些安静的瞬间。展览名 为《酌:对比与平衡》,是 Jay Khan 第一次以摄 影师身份举办个展。在这之前,认识他的人,多 半是因为他从吧台递出来的那杯酒。他创办的 Coa,从 2021 年起连续三年蝉联「亚洲 50 最佳 酒吧」榜首。 Jay 与摄影结缘,要从 2017 年的一趟旅程 说起。那一年,他与 TK 飞了一趟墨西哥。而墨 西哥是龙舌兰的故乡,也是 Coa 的立身之本。同 行的是屡获殊荣、多年来一直为 Jay 的调酒掌镜 的 TK 摄影总监 David Hartung。他们的任务很 明确:把酒厂、蒸馏坊、整个梅斯卡尔烈酒的世 界拍下来。但这趟旅程,Jay 也悄悄带了一台小 相机,本来没打算认真拍摄。他说:「我那时候 没把摄影当回事,就只是跟着看,看 David 怎么 工作。」这对他来说也是新体验。这是他头一回 连着好几天,近距离观察一位专业摄影师如何 拍照。旅程的某一天,David 翻了翻他拍的照片, 淡淡对他说:「你拍照有眼光。」当下他没太放在 心上。

真正的转折,是「全球停歇」那段时间。酒 吧关了门,城市慢了下来,Jay 拿起相机,给自己 找点事做。他迷上了街头摄影,原因很简单:一 出门就能拍。他开始反覆走同一条路线,直到今 天仍是如此:从佐敦往北,穿过深水埗,路过街 市、旧楼,路过老香港那些更粗粝的肌理。他一 边走,一边慢慢摸索自己在寻找什么。

Part of what he found was his own limitations. Khan is colorblind, and when he tried to edit color photographs, adjusting the sliders for separating one hue from another felt almost random. Rather than fighting it, he switched to black and white and eventually to a camera with a built-in monochrome filter that removed color from the process entirely. The constraint turned out to be liberating. With color gone, the frame came down to the light, shadow, shapes, and figures inside it. It was a short step from there to Fan Ho, the late Hong Kong photographer whose dramatic studies of post-war street life remain the essential reference point for anyone shooting the city in black and white.

他在这条路上的探索里,发现了自己的局限。 Jay 是色弱的,当他试着修彩色照片,那些用来分 离不同色调的滑杆,对他来说几乎是随机乱跳。他 没有跟它较劲,索性转向黑白摄影,后来干脆换了 一台内置单色滤镜的相机,把颜色从拍摄流程里 彻底剔除。没想到,这限制反而成为了解放。没有 了色彩,画面就只剩下光、影、形状,以及落在其 中的人与物。顺着黑白摄影的路走着,自然就想到 了何藩。这位已故香港摄影师那些极具戏剧张力、 捕捉战后街头生活的作品,至今仍是所有想以黑 白两色拍摄这座城市的人,绕不开的一座标杆。

When comparing his two art forms, the overlap was hard to ignore. A cocktail and a photograph both depend on balance – what fills one part of the glass or the frame needs to complement what fills the other. Both also depend on contrast: in his drinks, savory against bright, smoke against citrus; in his images, dark against a single highlight. And both, he says, are minimalist through a creative process of instinct first and design second. “Balance, contrast, composition, restraint,” he says of the overlap. “The drink has to taste right. The frame has to look right. Both come down to leaving out everything that doesn’t belong.”

The patience is the same too: “I always go back to the same intersection, the same staircase, the same patch of afternoon light and wait for someone to walk into the frame and complete it.” The background is scouted, the light is studied, but the subject

当调酒和摄影摆在一起,相通之处显而易见。

一杯鸡尾酒与一张照片,都讲究「平衡」。杯子里 放什么、画面里放什么,左右两边必须相互呼应。 两者也都讲究「对比」:在 Jay 的调酒里,咸鲜衬 着明亮,烟熏衬着柑橘;在他的照片里,是整片的 暗,衬着一抹高光。他形容两者都是极简主义的 凭直觉先动手,设计在后。他表示:「平衡、对比、 构图、克制。一杯酒喝下去,味道得是对的;一张 照片看下去,画面也得是对的。说到底,都是把 不该留的,一样一样拿掉。」

耐心也都如出一辙。「我会反反复复回到同一 个路口、同一段楼梯、同一片午后的光里,然后等 一个人走进画面,把它完成。」背景是他事先勘探 好的,光线是他仔细研究过的,唯独「人」,是他

is the one thing he cannot control. “For me, photography is a kind of meditation.”

Khan’s first exhibition actually came together quickly, slotting into Hong Kong Art Week on roughly a month’s notice. Swiftly after his debut, Khan returned to a gallery wall again, this time in a group exhibition at Affordable Art Fair in May. He talks about all of it with the same low-key tone he brings to his Coa awards: “I never thought I’d have a solo exhibition, just like I never thought we’d be topping Asia’s 50 Best even once, let alone three times. The focus is always on the execution. If the work is good, people will notice.”

It is, in its own way, the same approach that has carried him through twenty years behind a bar. Refine the craft, trust the work, and let the results do the talking. For a man who claims to be a minimalist, his life keeps adding up.

控制不了的。「对我来说,摄影是一种冥想。」 为了赶上香港艺术周的档期,这次个展从 接到邀请到开幕,前后只用了一个月筹备。首 展刚刚收尾,下一场展览便接踵而至。五月, 他会以群展形式参加「香港冉起当代艺博会」。

谈到这些,他的语气跟谈及他那些奖项时一样 平静。「我从没想过自己会办个展,也从没想过 Coa 会拿到『亚洲 50 最佳酒吧』第一名,更别 说连着三次。重点永远在于执行。如果作品做 得够好,自然有人看见。」

某种意义上,这也是他这些年在吧台后一 路走来的方法。把手艺磨砺好,相信作品,让 结果说话。他总说自己是一个极简的人,可这 些年,他的人生却一层一层地叠加起来。

Khan’s photographic approach seeks out small, everyday moments that most people pass by without noticing.

Light, shadow, and geometry comprise Khan’s monochromatic visual language 光、影、几何,构成Jay的黑白视觉语言。

Khan walks the same route from Jordan to Sham Shui Po, looking for pieces of the real Hong Kong. 从佐敦走到深水埗,他一遍又一遍 走同一条路,找的是真正的香港。

japan wayfarer

In words and images, TK’s director of photography documents his exploration of Honshu’s northern coast along the Michinoku Trail.

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID

HARTUNG

one-hundred-fifty-meterlong

A
hand-carved tunnel connects Nedari Beach to a cliff-hugging trail.

Setting out alone on a ten-day

walking journey along the northeastern coast

A one-second exposure captures the movement of a train through one of the many tunnels between Shiraikaigan Station and Fudai Station. 一秒的曝光捕捉到列车驶过 白井海岸站与普代车站之 间其中一条隧道的瞬间。

of Japan’s Honshu island seemed like

a daunting undertaking. Navigating in a land with no knowledge of its language and only a peripheral understanding of the culture made me a bit nervous about accepting the assignment.

I was invited to Japan through a travel company called Walk Japan that has established walking tours all over the country. They presented me with a list of choices, and I opted for the ten-day Michinoku Trail, which runs from Hachinohe in Aomori Prefecture all along the Pacific Coast through Iwate Prefecture and down to Soma City in Fukushima Prefecture. The total distance of the trail is just over 1,000 kilometers, or 640 miles. I’d like to impress by saying I walked the entire route, but the truth is that I traveled only half of the route, which included 120 kilometers of walking but also some train journeys that bypassed certain areas. Each day of walking covered a variety of trail conditions. Some areas were well manicured and leisurely while others were steep uphill ascents on endless flights of stairs followed by steep descents on narrow steps leading into lush ravines. On some days, this process repeated itself until my legs felt like heavy bags of cement.

Since this was a self-guided tour created by Walk Japan, I was at first nervous about how I’d navigate my way along the Michinoku Trail. After landing in Tokyo and finding my hotel, I was presented with a guidebook created by Walk Japan that included detailed instructions on how to navigate the trail, along with precise distance measurements, trail conditions, and photos marking the way. This proved to be most helpful, especially in situations where there weren’t clear markers on the trail or when walking through villages and small towns.

In addition to providing an excellent guidebook, Walk Japan arranged all guesthouses and hotels along the route. In some cases, they also had transportation waiting for me at the end of a day’s walk or at the beginning of the next day’s, mainly in situations where the trail finished or began a significant distance from the hotel. Walk Japan also took care of my luggage, which would be picked up in the morning and sent ahead to my next night’s guesthouse. That meant I only had to carry what I needed during the day, which for me was heavy enough, considering all my camera gear.

独自踏上为期十天的徒步之旅,沿着 日本本州岛东北部海岸前行,起初看 来着实令人生畏。在一个语言不通、 文化也仅略知皮毛的地方辨别方向, 让我对接受这项任务感到有些忐忑。

我是通过一家名为 Walk Japan 的旅行公司受邀前往的,他们在日本 各地设有成熟的徒步旅行路线。他们 给了我一系列选择,我最终选定了为 期十天的陆奥潮风步道。这条路线 从青森县八户市出发,沿太平洋海岸 穿越岩手县,一直南下至福岛县相马 市。整条路线总长超过 1000 公里。 我本想自豪地说自己走完了全程,但 事实上我只走了大约一半,其中包括 120 公里的徒步,也搭乘了几段火车 绕过了部分区域。每天的徒步路况不 尽相同:有些路段修整完好,走起来 悠然自得;而有些则是无穷无尽的陡 峭台阶 先要奋力攀登,接着又要 沿狭窄石阶下行,深入郁郁葱葱的峡 谷。有些日子,这个过程不断重复, 直到我的双腿重得像灌了水泥。

由于这是 Walk Japan 设计的自 助行程,起初我对自己能否在陆奥潮 风步道上顺利认路感到紧张。抵达 东京并找到酒店后,我收到了一本由 Walk Japan 制作的指南,里面有详 尽的路线说明,包括精确的距离测 算、路况描述及沿途标记点的照片。

事实证明这份指南极为实用,尤其是 在没有清晰标记,或者穿行于村庄和 小镇时。

除了这本出色的指南,Walk Japan 还安排好了沿途的所有旅馆和 酒店。在某些情况下,他们还在一日 徒步结束或次日出发时安排交通接 送,主要是在步道终点或起点离酒 店较远时。他们还负责运送我的行 李,每天早上取走行李,直接送至 我当晚入住的旅馆。这意味着我白 天只需携带必需品,但考虑到我所 有的摄影器材,这对我来说也已经 够重了。

The first challenge of my journey was just getting to the starting point. After I spent one night in Tokyo, my instructions from Walk Japan were to take a train to Hachinohe in Aomori Prefecture. This would be a three-hour journey aboard Japan’s famous Shinkansen railway. These trains, also known as bullet trains, travel at speeds from 260 to 320 km/h, or 162 to 200 mph. For those that have not traveled in Japan, its train and subway stations can be quite intimidating. The crowds and sheer number of tracks and platforms can be very confusing. I wasn’t even sure where I was supposed to go to buy my ticket. A friend of mine, who used to live in Japan, gave me some good advice: “Just look for the line with a lot of foreigners.” Sure enough, when I arrived at Tokyo Station, I immediately observed a line with foreigners and joined the queue. Within minutes, I was holding my ticket. Now, which platform do I go to?

As is often the case, I went in the wrong direction and had to seek the help of a station attendant who pointed me in the right direction. With a sigh of relief, I made it to the platform with a full two minutes to spare.

Upon arriving in Hachinohe I quickly checked into my hotel and then wandered around town. Not a whole lot happening in this northern little city, but I did find myself in a narrow walking street loaded with small izakaya restaurants. Each could seat between six and ten people, all sitting around an L-shaped counter/bar where customers could chat with each other and the restaurant proprietor. The atmosphere in each of the venues was lively and jovial as patrons ate delicious Aomori specialties and knocked back glasses of sake. As I stood outside a pinkcolored izakaya examining the menu, the young woman running the place beckoned me in. I was a bit nervous at first because I had no Japanese language skills and didn’t want to interrupt anyone’s good time. The tiny restaurant had everybody squeezed in together, and as I stepped in, I was greeted by welcoming smiles and hellos from the other guests. I was handed a menu and instructed to sit down. After placing my order of grilled mackerel, a tofu dish, and a seafood soup, I began trying to chat with some of the other guests. It was the usual conversation about where are you from, what are you doing here, etc. Some spoke a bit of English, but when that wasn’t possible Google Translate came to the rescue. It’s just a matter of time before we all have Babel Fish inserted in our ears.

旅程的第一个挑战就是抵达起点。在东 京住了一晚后,按照 Walk Japan 的指示,我 要乘坐火车前往青森县八户市。这是在日本 著名的新干线铁路上长达三小时的旅程。这 些列车也被称为「子弹头列车」,时速在 260 公里至 320 公里之间。对于未曾到过日本的 人来说,那里的火车站和地铁站可能相当吓 人。拥挤的人潮以及众多的轨道和站台,会 让不熟悉的人感到无所适从。我甚至不确定 该去哪里买票。一位曾居住在日本的朋友给 了我一条好建议:「找外国人多的那列队就行 了。」果然,当我抵达东京站时,立刻看到一 列排着外国人的队伍,便加入其中。几分钟 之内,我就拿到了车票。那么,现在该去哪个 站台呢?一如以往,我走错了方向,只好向车 站工作人员求助,他为我指了正确的方向。我 松了口气,在发车前两分钟赶到了站台。

抵达八户后,我很快办理了酒店入住, 然后在市内闲逛。这座北方小城并不热闹, 但我却发现了一条狭窄的步行街,街上满是 小小的居酒屋。每家店大约能坐六到十个人, 大家围坐在 L 形的吧台旁,可以彼此聊天, 也能与店主攀谈。每家店的气氛都热闹而欢 快,客人品尝着美味的青森美食,畅饮着清 酒。当我站在一家粉红色的居酒屋外看菜单 时,年轻的女店主招呼我进去。起初我有些 紧张,因为我不会说日语,也不想打扰别人 的美好时光。这家小店高朋满座,当我踏进 门时,迎接我的是其他客人友善的微笑和问 候。然后他们递给我一份菜单,示意我坐下。 我点了烤鲭鱼、一道豆腐料理和一份海鲜汤, 然后开始尝试与其他客人聊天。无非是你从 哪里来、你在这里做什么之类的寻常对话。 有些人会说一点英语,但实在不行时,谷歌 翻译就派上了用场。看来我们所有人耳朵里 被植入「巴别鱼」翻译器的日子也不远了。

A walking street in Hachinohe lined with small izakaya restaurants 八户市的一条步行街上,满是小巧的居酒屋。

Rising early

the next day, I headed straight for the Sunday morning market at the Tatehana Wharf. This market is famous as one of the largest in Japan and is held only on Sunday mornings from dawn to 9 a.m. Despite the rain, it was nice to wander from stall to stall and browse the variety of edible items available. From fish to fruit to dumplings to some amazingly good coffee, there was something for everyone. I even ran into some of the people I’d dined with the night before.

After leaving the market, I headed for the local station and boarded a train going just a few stops to Same Station, where I would begin my trek.

第二天一早,我直奔位于馆鼻码头的周日早市。这个早 市号称日本最大的早市之一,仅在周日清晨从黎明开放 到上午九时。尽管下着雨,但在摊位间闲逛,看着琳琅 满目的食材,仍然是一件乐事。从鱼鲜到水果,从饺子 到香醇的咖啡,每个人都能找到自己喜欢的东西。我甚 至遇到了几位前一天晚上一起吃饭的人。

离开市集后,我前往当地车站,搭乘火车只坐了几 站,在鲛站下车,从这里开始我的徒步之旅。

is the large Kabushima-jinja Shrine, which dates to the thirteenth century. The island that the shrine sits on is also the nesting grounds for thousands of black-tailed gulls. It’s quite a sight to see and hear when they all decide to take flight together. Somehow I managed not to be bombed.

在步道的起点与终点处,矗立着大型的芜岛神社, 其历史可追溯至 13 世纪。神社所在的小岛也是成 千上万只黑尾鸥的繁殖地。当它们一起展翅飞翔 时,那景象和声音都相当壮观。不知怎的,我竟 未被「空袭」。

As I set off down the trail,

Seaweeds washed up on shore near Kabushima Shrine display a variety of colors and textures.

芜岛神社附近的海岸边上,海藻色彩斑斓,纹理各异。

I took a moment to walk along a rocky beach. With the tide out, the beach was covered in a blanket of multicolored seaweed. I felt like I was looking at nature’s version of a Jackson Pollock painting. I’d never seen anything quite like it. I could have spent hours photographing all the different compositions and textures, but daylight was burning and I had to get moving.

This section of Aomori’s southern flank is known as the Tanesashi Coast and is part of Sanriku Fukko National Park. The dramatic views of the coast changed from jagged volcanic rocks providing natural protective barriers to long sandy beaches to small fishing ports and even to beautiful natural grass lawns in the small city of Tanesashi.

The rock formations were especially beautiful along the coast throughout my journey. The black jagged rocks, which ranged from lowlying bunkers to tall statue-like creations, some several hundred meters high, are volcanic and date back to the earth’s Cretaceous period some one hundred thirty million years ago. Amplifying the beauty was the sight of trees and vegetation growing on the rock formations. One could imagine, viewing these natural but seemingly impossible locations for trees to flourish, how people got the idea for creating bonsai gardens.

踏上步道后,我沿着岩石海滩走了一段。正 值退潮,海滩上铺满了色彩斑斓的海藻。我 感觉自己仿佛在欣赏大自然版的 Jackson Pollock 画作。我从未见过这样的景象。我 本可以花上几个小时拍摄各种不同的构图与 纹理,但白昼苦短,我必须继续前行。

青森南部的这段海岸被称为「种差海 岸」,是三陆复兴国立公园的一部分。海岸的 壮丽景色不断变换:从构成天然屏障的锯齿 状火山岩,到绵长的沙滩,再到小渔港,甚 至在种差这个小城里还有美丽的天然草坪。

沿途的岩层在海岸边显得格外美丽。这 些黑色的锯齿状岩石都是火山岩,有的像低 矮的碉堡,有的又似高达数百米的雕像,可 追溯至约 1.3 亿年前的白垩纪。而更添美感 的是生长在这些岩层上的植被与树木。看到 一棵树在如此岌岌可危、看似荒凉的地方茁 壮成长,人们或许就此得到了打造盆景花园 的灵感。

Sunrise near Tanohata Village

for trail walkers was finding themselves face to face with a bear. Posted signs run all along the trail warning hikers to be on the lookout for the furry beasts. Every now and then I’d hear the sound of jingling bells that some hikers attach to their packs as alerts to the bears that a human is approaching. Though I didn’t have my own set of bells, I did quite like the sound of them through the forest. I’d have liked to have seen a bear, since most of my days on the trail were quite lonely. A chance encounter with a forest friend would have been welcome. I knew they were about, because I had to step around a large pile of excrement on the trail, which could only have come from a large critter. On my final day on the trail, I was walking along an area with the ocean on my left and high brush to the right when I heard some heavy rustling in the bushes. The sound was strong enough that I figured it was either a deer or possibly a bear. With my camera at the ready, I slowed my pace and followed the sound. As I reached an opening in the foliage, I spotted it. Much to my disappointment, it was an elderly Japanese man trampling through the brush. Not sure if the gentleman had lost the trail and was just pushing on or simply liked the idea of finding his own path. Whatever the explanation, he got my heart racing for no good reason.

The only real concern

Prior to setting off on my day’s walk, I usually grabbed something for lunch at a local convenience store.

出发开始一天徒步之前,我通常会在当地便利店买些午餐。

徒步者唯一真正的担忧是与熊正面相遇。步道沿途到处立着警告标 志,提醒徒步者留意这些毛茸茸的野兽。我时不时听到叮当作响的 铃声,那是有些徒步者挂在背包上,用来提醒熊有人类靠近。虽然我 自己没有带铃铛,但我确实很喜欢它们在森林中发出的声响。我倒是 挺希望看到一只熊,因为徒步的大部分日子都很孤独。邂逅一位森 林伙伴是件受欢迎的事。我知道它们就在附近,因为我不得不绕开 路上一大堆粪便 那只能是大型动物留下的。在徒步的最后一天, 我正走在一条左边是海、右边是茂密灌木丛的路上,突然听到灌木 丛中传来沉重的沙沙声。那声音很大,我猜要么是鹿,要么就是熊。 我准备好相机,放慢脚步,循着声音走去。当我走到植被的开口时, 我看到了它。令我大失所望的是,那是一位日本老人正步履蹒跚地 穿过灌木丛。我不确定他是迷路了硬闯,还是单纯喜欢自己找路。不 管怎样,他让我的心跳白白加速了一回。

Each day ended

with me in the lobby of either a traditional Japanese guesthouse or a hotel. The gracious hosts would welcome me and guide me to my tatami room, all equipped with a futon, comfortable bedding, a hot pot for tea, a TV, and a yukata, which is a traditional Japanese type of kimono to be worn while in the guesthouse. Peeling off my sweaty hiking clothing, putting on the comfortable yukata, and heading off to the public bath was a highlight of every day. A good scrubbing followed by a nice long soak in a hot bath did wonders for my aching muscles and tired feet.

Then it was off to the dining room, where I was treated to a huge meal of local cuisine. At almost all the inns, the meals were served on a large tray full of small dishes. Many of the items I recognized, but others were new to both my eyes and my palate. Each had its own unique flavor and all were made from fresh local ingredients. I was able to enjoy a wide variety of foods ranging from grilled fish of several different species, sashimi, pickled vegetables, and miso soups served in many different ways to tempura, hairy crab, octopus, squid, and, of course, rice. Suffice it to say I didn’t starve during my trek.

每一天的结束,我都会回到一家传统日式旅馆或酒店 的大堂里。亲切的主人会迎接我,把我带到我的榻榻 米房间,房间里都备有蒲团、舒适的寝具、烧水壶和 茶具、电视机,以及浴衣 这是在旅馆内穿着的传 统日式服装。脱掉被汗水浸湿的徒步衣裤,穿上舒适 的浴衣,然后去公共浴室,是每天的高光时刻。好好 搓洗一番,再在热水中泡上一会,让我酸痛乏力的肌 肉和疲惫的双脚得到了极大的舒缓。

洗完澡后,我前往餐厅,享用一顿丰盛的当地美 食。几乎所有旅馆的餐食都装在一个摆满了小碟子的 大托盘里。许多食物我都认识,也有一些既陌生又新 鲜。每一道菜式都有其独特的风味,全部采用新鲜的 当地食材入馔。我品尝了各种各样的食物:从多种烤鱼、 刺身、腌菜、各式味 噌汤、天妇罗、毛蟹、章鱼、鱿鱼, 当然还有米饭。可以说,我在徒步期间并没有挨饿。

A typical guesthouse meal of locally sourced ingredients from both land and sea.

典型的旅馆餐点,食材皆取自当地的陆地与海洋。

One of the most unusual things

大船渡温泉酒店餐厅供应的慢炖剑鱼头,由志田豊繁烹制 他正站在自己的渔船上。

I’ve ever eaten was a slow-cooked swordfish head that was served to me at the restaurant in the Ofunato Onsen. The dish was created by the hotel’s owner, Toyoshige Shida, who used to work as a chef and is now a local businessman and fisherman. Toyoshige created the dish some thirty years ago when he returned to Ofunato after working as a chef in Tokyo. He got the idea from a local curry dish that used fish heads as the primary protein. As he tells the story, he was walking through the local fish market and observed that the heads of swordfish were being discarded because they were not considered a desirable part of the fish. He began experimenting with the seasoning and cooking process. After much trial and error, he arrived at cooking the head for three days, creating a dish that has received national acclaim. It’s shocking to see this big eyeball staring up from the plate, but one can’t resist the rich and hearty flavor.

我吃过的最难忘的一道菜,是大船渡温泉酒 店餐厅里的一道慢炖剑鱼头。这道菜是由酒 店的老板 志田豊繁创作的,他曾经当过 厨师,现在是当地的商人和渔民。大约三十 年前,志田豊繁在东京当厨师,之后回到大 船渡,创造了这道菜。他的灵感来自一道以 鱼头为主要食材的咖喱。据他讲述,他在当 地鱼市闲逛时,注意到剑鱼头因为被认为是 鱼身上不受欢迎的部位而被丢弃。他开始尝 试调味和烹饪方法。经过反复试错,最终确 定了将鱼头炖煮三天的做法,这道菜也广受 全国赞誉。虽然看到盘子里那只大眼睛盯着 自己让人有点心惊,但那种浓郁醇厚的风味 实在令人无法抗拒。

A slow-cooked swordfish head served in the Ofunato Onsen hotel restaurant was prepared by Toyoshige Shida, seen here on his fishing boat.

On any given day,

the trail might go from being next to the ocean along a path carved right out of a cliffside to climbing high above the sea into a forest of cedars or into a lush valley where young lily plants, known as kobaikeiso, decorated the path. I was often amazed at how the foliage would change so rapidly within a very short distance as I moved through various microclimates. At one point I found myself in a grove of tall bamboo that appeared to be sheltering a few cedars. Since I was walking in early spring, I was often in forests where the various types of blossoming deciduous trees had not yet bloomed. I could only imagine how beautiful those sections of the trail would be in the coming weeks. As I headed further and further south, however, I did manage to see a plethora of cherry blossoms in the Ofunato area.

每一天的步道,都可能从紧贴悬崖 边、毗邻大海的小径,变成攀升到 海平面之上、进入雪松林或郁葱山 谷,小径两旁点缀着被称为「小梅 蕙草」的幼嫩百合植株。当穿行于 各种微气候时,我常常惊讶于植被 如何在很短的距离内发生如此迅速 的变化。有一次,我发现自己置身 于一片高大的竹林,几棵雪松似乎 正受其庇护。由于我是在早春时节 徒步,我经常身处各种落叶乔木尚 未开花的森林中。我只能想象未来 几周那些步道会多么美丽。然而, 随着我越来越向南行进,我果然在 大船渡地区看到了大片樱花。

Fudai was one of the only towns protected from the 2011 tsunami by a large seawall. Its example has led other communities along the coast to prepare for the next big one by building similar structures.

普代村拥有高大的海堤,是少数在2011年海啸中幸存的城镇之一。其成功 经验促使沿海其他社区修建类似的防灾设施,为下一次海啸做好准备。

←

Twisted steel and broken concrete is all that remains of a memorial to the 2011 tsunami that destroyed many cities and villages along this section of the coast.

扭曲的钢筋与破碎的混凝土,是2011年海 啸仅存的见证。那场巨浪摧毁了沿海无数 城镇与村庄。

↓ Cherry blossoms in Ōfunato.

大船渡市的樱花。

It was in Ofunato that I met

Mayuko Sakamoto, a representative of the Michinoku Trail Club who took me around and introduced me to members of the community and those active in helping to rejuvenate the region’s economy as well as preserve the Trail. The 2011 tsunami devastated this region of Japan. Whole towns, cities, and ports, along with homes, were wiped out. The memory is still quite strong. Many of those who survived the earthquake and tsunami don’t hesitate to speak of the event. The survivors and those who came to help rebuild believe that the memory should not fade and that every day should be spent preparing for when the next wave reaches their shores. Memorials are visible up and down the coast, and photo albums in the guesthouses where I stayed contain images of the tsunami as it came ashore and of the wreckage it caused.

Our day was spent traveling from village to village and port to port. We first spent time with Jun and Isabelle Sasaki, husband-andwife scallop producers, who met when Isabelle, originally from France, came to the area as a volunteer following the 2011 tsunami. This joyful, loving couple were happy to tell me all about scallop farming, a twoyear process from capture of the microscopic spawn to full-grown shellfish. In recent years, they’ve had to deal with rising ocean temperature, which has wiped out entire scallop crops. Realizing they need other revenue streams, they’ve diversified to farming seaweed as well.

正是在大船渡,我遇到了陆奥步道俱乐部的 代表坂本麻由子,她带我四处参观,将我介绍 给社区成员,以及那些积极参与振兴当地经 济和保护陆奥步道的人。2011 年的海啸几乎摧 毁了这片地区。整个城镇、城市、港口和家园 都被夷为平地。记忆依然清晰,许多幸存者会 毫不犹豫地谈论这段经历。幸存者以及前来 帮助重建的人们都认为,记忆不应褪色,每一 天都应为下一次浪涌的到来做好准备。海岸线 上随处可见纪念碑,在我所住的旅馆里也有相 册,展示着海啸来袭及其造成的破坏。

那天,我们从一个村庄走到另一个村庄, 从一个港口走到另一个港口。我们首先拜访了 扇贝养殖户佐佐木淳和 Isabelle 夫妇。Isabelle 来自法国,在 2011 年海啸后作为志愿者来到 这里,两人因此相遇。这对快乐而恩爱的夫妇 很乐意告诉我关于扇贝养殖的一切 从捕 获微小的扇贝苗到长成成年贝类,需要长达两 年。近年来,他们不得不应对海洋温度上升, 因为这导致他们的扇贝收成全军覆没。他们意 识到需要其他收入来源,因此也开始养殖海藻。

Mayuko then took me

to the small coastal community of Okirai, outside of Ofunato city, and introduced me to Waichiryo Katayama, known affectionately as Waichi-san. As a life-long resident of Okirai, he saw his entire town destroyed by the 2011 earthquake and tsunami. During the reconstruction period, Waichi-san took it upon himself to build a makeshift museum out the debris left behind by the tsunami. His original structure had to be dismantled and relocated because it didn’t meet safety building codes, but the spirit of the building lives on with its shack-like construction, colorfully painted exterior walls, a swing, and other playful elements. The initial intent was for it to be a museum, but it morphed into a gathering place for volunteers and then for Michinoku Trail walkers. Waichi-san welcomes all visitors who come from across Japan as well as other countries. He named this spot Shiome, a term for a junction where ocean currents come together. The confluence of currents is exactly how he sees Shiome, a place where people from all over and from different walks of life can meet and learn about Okirai and share their own experiences.

随后坂本麻由子带我去了大船渡市郊外的一个沿海小社区「越喜 来」,并向我介绍了片山和一良先生,大家都亲切地叫他「和一 桑」。作为越喜来的终身居民,和一桑目睹整个城镇在 2011 年的 地震和海啸中被摧毁。重建期间,和一桑主动利用海啸后留下的 废墟建造了一个临时博物馆。他最初的建筑因不符合建筑安全规 范而被拆除搬迁,但这栋建筑的精神以它棚屋般的构造、色彩斑 斓的外墙、一个秋千和其他有趣的元素得以延续。最初是希望建 一座博物馆,但后来变成了志愿者的聚集地,现在则是陆奥步道 徒步者的歇脚之所。和一桑欢迎所有来自日本各地以及其他国家 的访客。他把这个地方命名为「潮目」,意思是海洋中洋流交汇之 处。洋流的汇合,正是他对「潮目」的理解 一个来自世界各地、 各行各业的人们可以相遇、了解越喜来并分享各自经历的地方。

Shuko Kino presides in her izakaya, Shukko-ne, a popular spot where trail walkers gather to enjoy her wonderful meals. 金野秀子在居酒屋Shukko-ne掌勺,这里是徒步者们享用美味佳肴的热门去处。

so we headed over to a local izakaya called Shukko-ne owned by Shuko Kino. She opened her restaurant after the 2011 tsunami to create a gathering place for residents, volunteers, and workers. It’s now become a popular spot for Michinoku trail walkers to stop by for a delicious meal, some drink, and a warm environment.

By now it was time for lunch,

到了午餐时间,我们去了当地一家名为 Shukko-ne 的居酒屋,由金野秀子经营。她在 2011 年海啸后开设了这家餐厅,为居民、志愿者 和工人创造一个聚集之地。如今,这里已经成为 陆奥步道徒步者们喜爱的驻足点,他们可以在此 享用美味的饭菜、喝点小酒,感受温暖和热情。

A nourishing pot of soup created by Shuko Kino 金野秀子熬制的暖心汤品

As I approached the entrance, Shuko came out and greeted us with a welcoming smile and guided us in. Within just a few minutes, our table was covered with a bounty of food items. The set she prepared is called Ojizuki, which in the local dialect means “comfortable.” It includes udon, mochi, rice, and several vegetable and pickled dishes. The soup was a hearty pot of hittsumi, which contains dumplings made from wheat dough, radish, carrot, and mushrooms, as well as shirataki noodles, fried tofu, and burdock. The mentsuyu soup base is made up of dashi, mirin, sake, and salt. The combination of all these ingredients warms the soul as it nourishes the body.

当我走近门口时,金野秀子带着热情的微笑出 来迎接我们,将我们带进入她的店里。短短几分钟, 我们的桌子上就摆满了各种各样的食物。她准备的 套餐叫做 Ojizuki,在当地方言中意为「舒适」,菜肴 包括乌冬面、麻糬、米饭、几道蔬菜和腌菜。汤是 丰盛的 Hittsumi,里面包括小麦面团、萝卜、胡萝卜、 蘑菇,还有魔芋丝、油炸豆腐和牛蒡。面条汤底则 由高汤、味醂、清酒和盐制成。这些食材的组合在 滋养身体的同时,也温暖了灵魂。

On my final day of trekking,

I walked along Goishi Coast on a beautiful sixkilometer trail around Suesaki Peninsula. The cliffside walk provides dramatic views of jagged rock formations sculpted by an unrelenting sea over millions of years.

As I neared the end of my walk, I stepped out onto a point where I could capture a wide view of the coastline from north to south. As my eyes scanned the view, I became fixated on one little pine tree that found itself rooted in a crack on one of the jagged rock formations high above the sea. I’m always amazed when I see life take hold in such precarious and seemingly inhospitable locations. As I worked to make a photo of this lonely plant struggling to survive, I suddenly recalled one of my favorite lines by the actor Jeff Goldblum in the original Jurassic Park movie: “Life finds a way.”

When I prepared for this journey, I wasn’t sure what to expect. I anticipated it being a long lonely coastal walk where I could concentrate on my landscape photography and have little interaction with the population in this fairly remote area of Honshu. And while much of the walk was exactly that, I was touched by the warm hospitality of those I met along the way. The family who gave me an apple at a market when the seller only sold in lots of five. The construction crew along a remote road who cleared a path for me to get over a landslide. And the innkeepers who not only prepared my meals but made a diagram describing in English each tasty item on the plates. It was an experience I’ll carry with me for the rest of my life.

For more information on the various walking tours offered by Walk Japan, please visit walkjapan.com

徒步的最后一天,我走到了「碁 石海岸」,这条风景秀丽的 6 公 里步道环绕末崎半岛。沿着悬崖 边行走,可以看到壮丽的景色, 那是经过数百万年无情海浪雕 琢而成的锯齿状岩层。

接近终点时,我走到一个 岬角上,可以拍摄到从北到南 的整条海岸线。当我的目光扫过 海面时,我被一棵小松树吸引住 了 它扎根在悬崖高处某个锯 齿状岩层的裂缝中,悬于海面之 上。每当看到生命在如此险峻、 看似不可栖居的地方扎根时,我 总会心生惊叹。当我努力为这株 挣扎求生的孤独植物拍摄时,我 突然想起了演员 Jeff Goldblum 在原版《侏罗纪公园》电影中那 句我最喜欢的台词:「生命总会 找到出路。」

出发前,我不确定会遇到 什么。我以为这将是一次漫长而 孤独的海岸徒步,可以专注于风 景摄影,并且与本州这个偏远地 区的居民几乎没有交集。虽然徒 步的大部分时间确实如此,但沿 途遇到的人们给予我的温暖热 情深深触动了我。市场上那位只 按五个一组出售苹果的摊贩,却 单独送了我一个;偏远公路上的 施工队为我清理出一条路,让我 越过塌方;还有那些旅馆老板, 不仅为我准备餐食,还不辞辛劳 地画了一张图,用英文解释盘子 里每一道美味是什么。这是一段 我将用余生珍藏的经历。

如需了解更多 Walk Japan 提供 的各种徒步旅行路线信息,请访 问:walkjapan.com

WHEN STARS ALIGN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY
DAVID HARTUNG

AT GRAND LISBOA PALACE, SJM BROUGHT

TOGETHER FIVE RENOWNED CHEFS FOR THE MICHELIN GUIDE-CURATED SENSORY HARMONY

STAR DINNER, AN EXTRAORDINARY MULTISENSORY JOURNEY THAT ENGAGED ALL FIVE

SENSES OF SIGHT, SMELL, SOUND, TOUCH, TASTE.

On the evening of March 21, the kitchen at Grand Lisboa Palace was alive with focused energy. Five chefs, rarely seen together on the same continent, maneuvered around each other with the deft choreography of a dance troupe. At the pass, plates stood ready, each one representing not only a dish but a distinct perspective on what food can achieve.

The Sensory Harmony Star Dinner featured a menu organized around the five senses. Each course awakened a single sense, culminating in a final dessert designed to engage them all at once. Blending neuroscience and gastronomy, the meal explored how food interacts with consciousness.

The concept was designed to coincide with the eighteenth annual Michelin Guide Hong Kong & Macau ceremony two nights prior, celebrating the hundredth anniversary of the Michelin Star. A century after that red symbol first appeared, five chefs holding a collective fourteen stars gathered to expand its legacy. The menu was paired with global wines rated 90+ points by the Robert Parker (RP) system. Every pour was selected beyond simple flavor profiling, chosen specifically to heighten the targeted sense of each course.

Executive Chef Julien Tongourian of three-Michelinstarred Robuchon au Dôme anchored the menu, creating both the opening course of visual precision and the closing

在澳门上葡京综合度假村,澳娱综合汇 聚五位名厨,呈献由《米其林指南》策 划的「感官协奏星级晚宴」,开启一场 贯穿视、嗅、听、触、味五感的非凡厨 艺旅程。

三月二十一日傍晚,上葡京的厨房充满专 注的活力。平日鲜少同处一洲的五位名厨, 如舞团般默契穿梭。随着一道道餐盘整齐 罗列,这场晚宴的序幕徐徐拉开,每一道 菜品皆是对饮食潜能的深情诠释。

「感官协奏星级晚宴」的菜单围绕五 感构思。每道菜品唤醒单一感官,并由压 轴甜点将五感同时调动。晚宴结合感官艺 术与烹饪技艺,探索食物与意识的互动。

晚宴为契合两天前举行的第十八届 《香港澳门米其林指南》颁奖典礼而设, 共庆米其林星级诞生一百周年。在这餐飲 界的璀璨星徽成立一世纪之际,五位共揽 十四颗星的名厨齐聚一堂,延续传奇。菜 单搭配获罗伯特 帕克(Robert Parker) 评分系统九十分以上的环球佳酿。每一口 醇酿,皆超越单纯的风味,升华每道菜所 对应的特定感官。

米其林三星天巢法国餐厅行政总厨 Julien Tongourian 领衔晚宴,以视觉精准

(Clockwise from top left)

Michelangelo Mammoliti, Joseph Tse, Julien Tongourian, Jungsik Yim, Mathew Leong

course of sensory synthesis to finish. Between these bookends, the dinner traveled across distinct culinary landscapes. Executive Chef Joseph Tse of two-Michelin-starred The Eight brought five decades of Cantonese technique, Chef Mathew Leong translated his Nordic-Asian philosophy from three-Michelin-starred RE-NAA by Sven Erik Renaa in Norway, Chef Jungsik Yim introduced modern Korean techniques from three-Michelin-starred Jungsik New York, and Chef Michelangelo Mammoliti presented the Italian avant-garde cuisine of threeMichelin-starred La Rei Natura by Michelangelo Mammoliti in Italy.

As the evening progressed, the focus shifted from how five distinct culinary philosophies would coexist on a single menu to how a meal could fundamentally alter a diner’s perception of eating.

开场,并以感官的交融收尾。在这首尾呼应之 间,米其林二星 8 餐厅行政总厨谢锦松师傅展 现五十年粤菜功底;来自挪威米其林三星餐厅 RE-NAA by Sven Erik Renaa 主厨梁程前演绎 北欧与亚洲的融合哲学;纽约米其林三星餐厅 Jungsik New York 主厨 Jungsik Yim 注入现代韩 国烹饪技艺;意大利三星餐厅 La Rei Natura by Michelangelo Mammoliti 的主厨 Michelangelo Mammoliti 则呈现前卫意式料理。

随着晚宴推进,真正的焦点不再是五种烹 饪哲学如何共融,而是一场晚宴如何从根本上 颠覆食客对「吃」的认知。

SIGHT

ROBUCHON AU DÔME  天巢法国餐厅

Crispy Soft-Boiled Egg with Imperial Caviar and Smoked Salmon 脆炸嫩煮蛋伴鱼子酱及烟熏三文鱼

2015 Dom Pérignon, Champagne, France

OPENING A MILESTONE DINNER with a twentyfive-year-old recipe takes courage. For Executive Chef Tongourian, who has maintained three Michelin stars at Robuchon au Dôme for eighteen years in a row, it was a deliberate statement. The dish is quintessentially Joël Robuchon – just three elements, arranged with a jeweler’s precision.

Before taste or aroma, there is sight. Composed like an eye, the plate features uniform cubes of smoked salmon encircled by delicate dots of parsley essence. For Tongourian, this opening course is intentional, designed to awaken the senses by ensuring the eyes feast first.

It is a lesson drawn directly from Robuchon himself: True mastery lies not in accumulation, but in stripping away the superfluous and leaving only the essential, the flavor. Paired with a 2015 Dom Pérignon, its vibrant citrus and brioche aromatics effortlessly slice through the richness of the caviar, beautifully establishing the discipline for the evening ahead.

以一道传承了二十五年的经典佳肴为晚宴序幕,尽显底气。

作为连续十八年带领天巢法国餐厅蝉联米其林三星的行 政总厨,Julien 的选择绝非偶然。这道菜呈现纯正的 Joël Robuchon 风格 仅由三种食材构成,摆盘精准利落。

味觉与嗅觉未动,视觉先行。盘中构图形似眼眸:规 整的烟熏三文鱼方块被一圈欧芹叶绿素萃取的翠绿圆点环 绕。Julien 深信:开胃菜负责调动随后的所有感知,而在任 何餐桌上,视觉总是最先被唤醒的一环。

这印证了 Joël Robuchon 的烹饪哲学:化繁为简,方 为大成。卓越不在于堆叠元素,而在于剔除冗余,直达味 道的精髓。此道前菜搭配 2015 年份 Dom Pérignon 香槟, 柑橘与布里欧面包的香气恰好穿透鱼子酱的丰腴口感,为 整场晚宴定下基调。

NEARLY FIVE DECADES into his career, Chef Tse treats aroma not as mere embellishment, but as the very soul of a dish. His double-boiled matsutake soup demonstrates Cantonese restraint at its most precise.

Mountain-sourced matsutake mushrooms are soaked at a low temperature to preserve their volatile compounds. Combined with Japanese kelp, dried cuttlefish flower, and dried scallop, the broth delivers layers of oceanic freshness, creating a quintessential Cantonese dialogue between mountain and sea.

Before tasting, Tse recommends: lift the lid, wait, inhale. Aroma is fleeting – once it has escaped, it cannot be recaptured. Paired with a 2022 Les Quatre Piliers ‘Bel Air,’ the dish becomes a lesson in presence – the radical act of arriving fully in a single moment.

入行近五十年,谢锦松师傅始终视香气为菜肴 根本,而非单纯点缀。这道松茸炖柱脯汤,精 准诠释了粤菜的克制之道。

深山的松茸经低温浸泡以牢锁香气,配以 日本海带、目鱼花与干贝,在汤底中层层叠加 鲜味。山野与海洋的食材于此交汇,展现纯粹 的粤式风范。

品尝前,谢师傅建议宾客掀开盅盖,稍 作停顿。最纯粹的鲜香仅在开盖瞬间绽放,需 倾心捕捉。汤品搭配 2022 年份 Les Quatre Piliers “Bel Air,” 将焦点凝聚于当下,引领宾客 全心投入眼前的感官体验。

SMELL

CHEF JOSEPH TSE 谢锦松

THE EIGHT 8 餐厅

Matsutake Mushroom Soup Double Boiled with Conpoy

松茸炖柱脯汤

2022 Les Quatre Piliers “Bel Air,” Loire Valley, France

SOUND

CHEF MATHEW LEONG 梁程前

RE-NAA

Wild Atlantic Cod with Celeriac Flan, King Crab and Truffle 野生大西洋鳕鱼伴芹菜根、帝王蟹和松露

2023 Niepoort “Coche” Branco, Douro, Portugal

DESPITE EVERY MEAL being suffused with it, sound usually gets forgotten at fine-dining tables. Chef Leong, who steered RE-NAA to three stars through Nordic-Asian harmony, builds his course around sound as texture in motion.

The dish draws from Norway’s fjord sound-scapes. Each element produces distinct audio: yielding cod, resistant king crab, trembling celeriac flan, truffle foam that dissolves before registering. Textural contrasts calibrated not just for flavor but for the sounds they create when chewed.

Leong’s instruction is simple: chew slowly, listen carefully, notice what each component says. The meal becomes music only when you choose to hear it. Paired with 2023 Niepoort “Coche” Branco’s mineral precision, the result is unexpectedly meditative.

尽管每一餐都充满了声音,但在高级餐饮的席间,听 觉却常常被忽略。梁程前透过北欧与亚洲的和谐,带领 RE-NAA 夺得三星。他的菜式围绕「声音即流动的质地」 来构建。

这道菜的灵感来自挪威峡湾的自然景观和声音意 境。每一种食材都会产生独特的声响:软嫩的鳕鱼、带 细致咀嚼感的帝王蟹、滑顺的芹菜根、以及入口即化的 松露乳沫。质地的对比,不仅是为了风味,更是为了在 咀嚼时创造的声音。

梁程前的指示很简单:慢慢咀嚼,仔细聆听,留意 每一种食材在诉说什么。唯有当你选择去倾听,这一餐 才会化为音乐。搭配 2023 年 Niepoort “Coche” Branco 矿物般精准的口感,结果出人意料地引人深思。

TOUCH

CHEF JUNGSIK YIM

JUNGSIK NEW YORK

IN A ROOM OF CRYSTAL and pressed linen, Chef Yim asks you to put down your fork. His gimbap – Korea’s beloved rice roll wrapped in dried seaweed – comes with disarming instructions: pick it up with your hands.

This is deliberate intimacy. Yim built his “New Korean” philosophy by reimagining traditional forms through contemporary discipline. He understands that touch, beyond mere physical sensation, is permission, a reminder that food is something we reach for and choose to bring close.

The gimbap delivers calibrated textural contrast: nori’s sharp crackle, seasoned rice’s glutinous give, filling that shifts between crisp and yielding with each bite. Every sensation considered with three-star precision. Paired with 2023 Alheit “Fire by Night” Chenin Blanc’s bright stone fruit and mineral freshness, this is simultaneously the simplest and most profound course of the evening.

在一间满是水晶杯与平整桌巾的大礼堂里,主厨 Jungsik 请你放下叉子。他准备的是深受韩国人喜爱 的「紫菜包饭」,并附带了一个令人卸下心防的指示: 用手拿起来吃。

这是一种刻意的亲密感。主厨 Jungsik 透过以 当代技法重塑传统形式,建立了他的「新韩国」料 理哲学。他深知,触觉超越了单纯的身体感知,它 是一种认可,一种提醒:食物是我们伸手去触碰、 选择将其靠近的东西。

这道「紫菜包饭」带来了精准调控的质地对比: 海苔的清脆碎裂声、米饭的软糯黏性,以及每一口 都在爽脆与软嫩之间切换的内馅。每一种感受都经 过三星级别的精密考量。搭配 2023 年 Alheit “Fire by Night” Chenin Blanc 明亮核果与矿物般清新的 风味,这是当晚最简单,也是最深刻的一道菜。

Gimbap | 紫菜包饭
2023 Alheit Vineyards “Fire by Night” Chenin Blanc, Western Cape, South Africa

TASTE

CHEF MICHELANGELO MAMMOLITI

LA REI NATURA BY MICHELANGELO MAMMOLITI

Wagyu Beef Braised Barolo Style | 巴罗洛风味 燉 和牛

2019 Gaja Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy

FOR CHEF MAMMOLITI, taste – gusto – is inner life. It’s what happens when land speaks through food, and food speaks through the body. At La Rei Natura in Serralunga d’Alba, which attained three stars in 2026, this philosophy drives every plate.

Based on Mammoliti’s approach that draws from neurogastronomy, the study of how the brain creates the perception of flavor, each ingredient activates memory and emotion. His braised beef, served with vegetable risotto and finished with Barolo vinegar, radicchio, and date condiment, fully engages the four flavor pillars of sweet, salt, bitter, and umami.

As it braises for hours in Barolo, the Wagyu absorbs the wine’s dark complexity until meat and sauce boundaries dissolve. Radicchio and dates provide bittersweet counterpoint. Paired with 2019 Gaja Barbaresco, the course delivered extraordinary depth – landscape, philosophy, and lifetime’s work in a single bowl.

对主厨 Michelangelo 而言,味觉是内在 的生命。它是当土地透过食物说话、食物 透过身体说话时发生的一切。在 2026 年 获得三星的 La Rei Natura,这个哲学驱 动着每一道菜。

Michelangelo 的方法植基于神经美 食学 研究大脑如何创造风味感知的 学科。每一种食材都能激活记忆与情感。 他的炖煮和牛搭配蔬菜炖饭,并以巴罗 洛红酒醋、紫苦苣与椰枣点缀,充分调动 了甜、咸、苦、鲜四大风味轮廓。

和牛在巴罗洛红酒中慢炖数小 时,吸收了酒液的深邃复杂度,直到肉 与酱汁融为一体。紫苦苣与椰枣提供 了甜苦交错的对比。搭配 2019 年 Gaja Barbaresco,这道菜带来了非凡的深 度 风土、哲学,以及毕生心血,尽在 一碗之中。 CULINARY

FIVE SENSES

CHEF JULIEN TONGOURIAN ROBUCHON AU DÔME  天巢法国餐厅

Traditional Soufflé Crêpe with Lime and an Unctuous Cottage Sorbet

法式薄饼舒芙蕾配奶酪雪葩 2014 Joh. Jos. Prüm “Bernkasteler Badstube” Riesling Auslese, Mosel, Germany

THAT EXECUTIVE CHEF TONGOURIAN handled both the opening and closing courses was entirely intentional. A dinner with this kind of architectural ambition requires a powerful frame – something to open the eyes, and something to close the circle.

This dessert originates from Joël Robuchon’s iconic 1980s work at Jamin, his first three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris. Its preparation demands absolute precision: soufflé of an exact airiness, Suzette sauce on the knife-edge of caramelization and sorbet balanced sublimely.

Hot and cold, crisp and yielding, citrus and cream, these contrasts are not merely stimulating, they are the soul of the dish. Every sense awakened individually throughout the evening converges here in one transcendent savor. Paired with the ripe peach and vivid acidity of a 2014 Joh. Jos. Prüm “Bernkasteler Badstube” Riesling Auslese, it serves as both dessert and conclusion: the entire evening’s ultimate harmony.

由行政总厨 Julien

统筹开篇与压轴,为晚宴构筑了清晰的脉络:以纯粹的视 觉开场,以五感交融作结。

这道压轴甜点源自 Joël Robuchon 八十年代在巴黎创立的首家米其林三 星餐厅 Jamin。其制作要求精准严谨:舒芙蕾面糊需打发至轻盈蓬松;香橙 苏塞特酱需精准焦糖化;雪葩则要在冰冷温度与馥郁乳香间取得平衡。

热与冷、脆与柔、柑橘与奶香的碰撞,正是这道甜点的精髓所在。整 晚被逐一唤醒的感官在此刻尽数汇聚。甜点搭配 2014 年 Joh. Jos. Prüm ‘Bernkasteler Badstube’ Riesling Auslese,酒体的成熟蜜桃香气与鲜明酸度 贯穿其中,为这场感官旅程留下悠长余韵。

The DRAGON RISING

Chinese cuisine soars in the rankings of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2026.

HONG KONG 香港

Danny Yip 叶一南

FROM THE OUTSIDE, The Wellington in Hong Kong’s Central district appears to be just another sleek tower block in the city’s iconic skyline. But a closer look reveals it as arguably Asia’s most significant culinary address, housing as it does both The Chairman and Wing, the two entries that swept to the top of the list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2026.

Separated by twenty-six floors, the two establishments reflect the undeniable fact that Chinese cuisine has never been more visible or acclaimed on the global stage. They also demonstrate the thrilling breadth of Chinese gastronomy, with The Chairman looking to hallowed traditions and Wing viewing thousands of years of culinary history through the lenses of European technique and forward-thinking creativity.

从外表看来,位于中国香港中环的 The Wellington 大厦不过是这座城市的标志性天际 线中的一栋时尚高楼。但细看之下,它可以 算是亚洲最具分量的美食地标 大楼内 坐拥「大班楼」与「永」两间餐厅,双双问 鼎 2026 年「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」 榜单。

The Chairman has been here before, having taken the top spot in the difficult pandemic-era days of 2021. And so its return to the summit was welcomed more than ever by its charismatic founder, Danny Yip. His

两间餐厅相隔二十六层,却 共同印证了一个不争的事实:中 餐从未在全球舞台上如此耀眼,备受赞誉。 它们也展现了中华美食令人振奋的广度 「大班楼」致敬崇高传统,而「永」则以欧式 技法与前瞻创意之眼,重新演绎数千年的烹 饪历史。

大班楼并非首次登顶。早在艰困的

singular take on Cantonese fine dining is based on a near-obsessive commitment to recovering forgotten luxury ingredients and honoring southern China’s age-old culinary legacy of seasonality, provenance, and patience. Whether gently steaming crab in aged Shaoxing wine or slow-cooking pork belly with preserved vegetables, The Chairman is defined by timelessness.

At the awards ceremony, held in Hong Kong for the first time, Yip was visibly moved by the accolade. “It means everything to us to win this award,” he said from the stage. “This is just the best – we’re in Hong Kong and we’re No. 1. I’m so happy.” Then he turned to congratulate Chef Vicky Cheng, his upstairs neighbor at The Wellington.

Tipped by many for the top spot, Wing ended up in second place. Cheng’s take on Chinese cuisine, while markedly different from The Chairman’s in methodology, is equally rigorous in ambition and utterly flawless in execution.

Whereas The Chairman draws inspiration largely from Guangdong province, Wing casts its net across China’s eight great culinary traditions: Cantonese, Sichuan, Hunan, Shandong, Jiangsu, Fujian, Anhui, and Zhejiang. The philosophy and precision of each is filtered through French technique, given that Cheng

2021 年期间,它便已摘下榜首。因 此,此番重返巅峰,创始人叶一南 的喜悦更胜以往。他对粤式精致餐 饮的独特见解,植根于近乎执着的 坚持之上:复兴被遗忘的珍馐食材, 并向华南地区源远流长的烹饪传 统致敬:讲究时令、注重产地、等 待的耐心。无论是陈年绍兴酒清蒸 蟹,还是腌菜慢炖五花肉,大班楼 的定义始终是「永恒」。

颁奖典礼首次在香港举行。上 台领奖时,叶一南难掩激动之情。 他说:「获得这个奖项,对我们来 说意义重大。这是最棒的 我 们身处香港,而我们是第一名。我 太开心了。」随后,他转向楼上的 邻居 主厨郑永麒致意。

Vicky Cheng

郑永麒

trained in classical French cuisine in his native Toronto before going on to work at such renowned restaurants as Daniel Boulud’s then-three-Michelin-starred Daniel in Manhattan.

Wing’s constantly evolving menu wows diners with the world’s finest ingredients, Australian dried sea cucumber foremost among them. “It’s always been the case in Chinese cuisine that sea cucumber is braised in brown sauce,” notes Cheng, “but when we opened Wing, I had to tackle dried seafood differently. We learned to cook it the traditional way and then changed it through our own DNA .”

He admits that “insane” levels of preparation ensure that it’s crispy and never slimy, thanks to cooking it in stock for up to six hours and then spooning boiling oil over it. Stuffed with crab, lobster, squid, mushrooms, or local tiger prawn, it is finished with sauces of simply jaw-dropping depth of flavor.

HONG KONG 香港

被众人看好有望夺冠的永, 获得第二名。郑永麒对中餐的诠释, 虽然在方法上与大班楼截然不同, 但同样野心勃勃,在细节执行上亦 无懈可击。

大班楼的灵感主要来自广东, 而永的版图则横跨中国八大菜系: 粤、川、湘、鲁、苏、闽、徽、浙。 每一种菜系的哲学与精髓,都经 由法式技法过滤 郑永麒曾在 其出生地多伦多接受古典法式烹 饪训练,之后曾在曼哈顿 Daniel Boulud 旗下当时拥有米其林三星 的 Daniel 等知名餐厅工作。

永不断演变的菜单,以世界上 最优质的食材惊艳食客,其中以澳 洲干海参最为突出。郑永麒指出: 「在中餐里,海参通常是用酱汁红 烧的,但当我们开设永时,我必须 以不同的方式处理海味。我们先 学会传统的烹调方法,再以自己的 DNA 加以改造。」

他坦言,备料工序达到近乎「疯 狂」的程度:将海参在高汤中炖煮 长达六小时,然后以滚油淋浇,以 确保其口感酥脆且绝不黏腻。他继 而填入蟹肉、龙虾、鱿鱼、菌菇或 本地虎虾后,再淋上风味深邃的酱 汁收尾。

#2 Wing 永

Meet the Bund

遇外滩

SHANGHAI 上海

#7

Chef Tam’s Seasons

谭卉

MACAU 澳门

CHINA’S REMARKABLE CULINARY ASCENT continued throughout the 50 Best listings. At No. 6, Meet the Bund in Shanghai – once again named The Best Restaurant in Mainland China – rose eight places from the previous year. At No. 7, Chef Tam’s Seasons at Macau’s Wynn Palace reminded the world how it has few equals in opulent Cantonese banquet cuisine, a mix of culinary theater, hospitality, and masterly technique.

Ling Long in Shanghai, at No. 9, shone with its décor featuring avant-garde Chinese art and Chef Jason Liu’s contemporary sensibility and devotion to delivering umami.

Rounding out the top ten and also taking the Highest New Entry Award was Ru Yuan, located in the picturesque ancient imperial city of Hangzhou, whose own rich culinary heritage has long been overshadowed by its more famous neighbors. Many see Ru Yuan as set to change that with its reinvigoration and occasional reinvention of old-school Hangzhou cuisine, rooted in the famously ingredient-rich lakes and mountains of Zhejiang province.

中国美食的惊人崛起贯穿整份榜单。排名第 六的上海「遇外滩」再次获封「中国内地最 佳餐厅」,较去年跃升八位。排名第七的中国 澳门永利皇宫「谭卉」,向世界展示了其在奢 华粤式宴席料理中无与伦比的地位,那是烹 饪剧场、待客之道与精湛技艺的完美融合。 排名第九、位于上海的 Ling Long,其 前卫中国艺术装潢与主厨刘禾森对鲜味的当 代表达相得益彰。

跻身前十并同时拿下「最佳新上榜餐厅 奖」的,是坐落于风景如画的千年古都杭州 的「如院」。杭州本身丰富的烹饪传统,长期 以来一直被其邻居的光芒所掩盖。许多人认 为,如院以其对老派杭帮菜的复兴与偶尔革 新 植根于浙江以物产丰饶著称的湖光山 色之间 将改变这一局面。

Lamdre 兰斋

BEIJING 北京

Highest Climber Award

最佳进步奖

Ling Long 或
#9
Ling Long
SHANGHAI 上海
#11
Fu He Hui
福和慧
SHANGHAI 上海

CENTURIES-OLD CHINESE vegetarian cooking founded on Buddhist temple traditions won No. 11 ranking for Fu He Hui in Shanghai, confirming the city’s status as one of Asia’s gastronomic capitals, with five restaurants among the 50 Best.

Beijing also climbed in recognition, with another plant-based restaurant, Lamdre, rising from No. 50 to No. 17. Named for the Buddhist concept of “the path and its fruit,” it reflects a quieter, more contemplative take on Chinese gastronomy.

植基于寺庙传统、拥有数百年历史的中式素食料 理餐厅「福和慧」位于上海,赢得了第 11 名的殊荣, 也再次证明了这座城市作为亚洲美食之都之一的 地位 榜单中有五席皆出自上海。

北京的知名度也随之提升,另一家素食餐厅 「兰斋」从第 50 名跃升至第 17 名。餐厅取名自佛 教「道与果」之意,反映出一种更沉静、更内省 的中国饮食哲学。

#10

Highest New Entry

最佳新上榜餐厅奖

Ru Yuan 如院

HANGZHOU 杭州

THE STUNNING BREADTH of Asia’s food and dining scene was also writ large, with Bangkok leading the list with nine entries. Among them was Gaggan at No. 3, retaining its title of The Best Restaurant in Thailand, as well as Nusara, Sorn, and Sühring.

Tokyo featured seven restaurants in the rankings, and Seoul’s Mingles at No. 4 continued its reign as The Best Restaurant in South Korea. Singapore’s Odette, under Julien Royer, remained the Lion City’s finest at No. 19. Debuting on the list were Kasauli in the Indian Himalayas, Ubud in Bali, and Penang in Malaysia.

Individual accolades went to Odette’s Lesley Liu, winner of Asia’s Best Sommelier Award; food activist Peggy Chan, winner of the Champions of Change Award; and Bangkok’s Baan Tepa, helmed by Chef Chudaree ‘Tam’ Debhakam, winner of the Sustainable Restaurant Award.

Overall, the night indisputably belonged to Chinese cuisine and to Hong Kong, a city that has brought it to world recognition. The ranking results also proved that Chinese gastronomy – ancient and endlessly vast – has never been in better hands.

Chef Fu Yueliang from Ru Yuan 如院的傅月良主厨

亚洲餐饮界的惊人广度也在榜单中展露无遗,曼 谷以九间餐厅入围领跑亚洲。其中包括以第三名蝉 联「泰国最佳餐厅」的 Gaggan,Nusara、Sorn 和 Sühring 亦榜上有名。

东京有七家餐厅上榜,首尔的 Mingles 排名第 四,继续稳坐「韩国最佳餐厅」的宝座。新加坡的 Odette 在 Julien Royer 的带领下,仍以第 19 名的 成绩保持狮城最佳。首次上榜的餐厅包括印度喜马 拉雅山区的 Kasauli、巴厘岛的 Ubud 和马来西亚的 Penang。

个人奖项方面,Odette 的 Lesley Liu 赢得「亚 洲最佳侍酒师奖」;美食行动主义者 Peggy Chan 获得「变革先锋奖」;曼谷的 Baan Tepa 在主厨 Chudaree ‘Tam’ Debhakam 的掌舵下,荣获「可持 续餐厅奖」。

毫无疑问,这一晚属于中餐,属于将它推向世 界的香港。榜单结果也证明了,古老而浩瀚无垠的 中华美食,从未像现在这样,被托付在如此出色的 主厨及团队手中。

Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2026

1  The Chairman  Hong Kong

2  Wing  Hong Kong

3  Gaggan  Bangkok

4  Mingles  Seoul

5  Nusara  Bangkok

6  Meet the Bund  Shanghai

7  Chef Tam’s Seasons  Macau

8  Gaggan at Louis Vuitton  Bangkok

9  Ling Long  Shanghai

10  Ru Yuan  Hangzhou

11  Fu He Hui  Shanghai

12  Sorn  Bangkok

13  La Cime  Osaka

14  Onjium  Seoul

15  Masque  Mumbai

16  Sézanne  Tokyo

17  Lamdre  Beijing

18  Sühring  Bangkok

19  Odette  Singapore

20  Seroja  Singapore

21  Sazenka  Tokyo

22  Logy  Taipei

23  Born  Singapore

24  Neighborhood  Hong Kong

25  Potong  Bangkok

Art of Hospitality Award 2026

Asia’s Best Sommelier Award 2026, sponsored by VIK

SevenRooms Icon Award 2026

Asia’s Best Female Chef Award 2026

26  Eatanic Garden  Seoul

27  Ms. Maria & Mr. Singh  Bangkok

28  Maz  Tokyo

29  102 House  Shanghai

30  Naar  Kasauli

31  Florilège  Tokyo

32  Estro  Hong Kong

33  Myoujyaku  Tokyo

34  Crony  Tokyo

35  Caprice  Hong Kong

36  Le Du  Bangkok

37  Narisawa  Tokyo

38  Les Amis  Singapore

39  Au Jardin  Penang

40  Labyrinth  Singapore

41  Mosu  Seoul

42  August  Jakarta

43  Bium  Seoul

44  Locavore NXT  Ubud

45  Nae:Um  Singapore

46  Mono  Hong Kong

47  Wana Yook  Bangkok

48  La Bourriche 133  Shanghai

49 7th Door Seoul

50 JL Studio Taichung

Masque, Mumbai

Lesley Liu, Odette, Singapore

Zhang Yong

Cho Eun-hee, Onjium, Seoul

Asia’s Best Pastry Chef Award 2026, sponsored by Valrhona Ardika Dwitama, August, Jakarta

Sustainable Restaurant Award 2026

Baan Tepa, Bangkok

Champions of Change Award 2026 Peggy Chan

Inedit Damm Chefs’ Choice Award 2026 Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn, Le Du, Bangkok

One To Watch Award 2026 San, Seoul

Highest New Entry Award 2026

Ru Yuan, Hangzhou

Highest Climber Award 2026, sponsored by Lee Kum Kee Lamdre, Beijing

Masaaki Miyakawa

精准、细腻、匠心

precision, finesse, artistry

Michelin-starred Sushi Kissho by Miyakawa brings to Galaxy Macau the exquisite Edomae-style sushi of one of the world’s most renowned masters.

AS THE ONLY INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANT of Masaaki Miyakawa, famed chef of three-Michelin-star Sushi Miyakawa in Sapporo, Japan, Sushi Kissho offers an omakase experience rooted in rigorous tradition, a unique dining style in which guests trust the sushi master to create a personalized culinary adventure. Sushi Kissho by Miyakawa’s intimate setting embodies the wabi-sabi principle of finding beauty in natural simplicity. This ethos lies behind the choice of the interior’s natural materials, including unfinished Hinoki cypress wood, as well as the restaurant’s sophisticated, open, minimalist design, which puts the focus squarely on the dining experience and the interaction between the sushi master behind the counter and the guest before him.

作为日本札幌米其林三星「寿司宫川」名厨 宫川政明唯一的海外餐厅,「鮨吉祥 宫川」 提供根植于严谨传统的「厨师发办」体验。

The ten-seat counter is crafted from a three-century-old Kiso Hinoki cypress tree from Nagano Prefecture, deliberately left uncoated by its master craftsman, Mr. Tomita, who carefully preserved its character and marked it with his signature maple-leaf inlay. Reflecting Japan’s reverence for natural materials, this wood is considered sacred and historically was used in imperial residences and the iconic Ise Shrine. Augmenting the counter seating is an exclusive ten-seat private dining room.

The main dining room displays a striking collection of objets d’art, including antique Ikebana baskets from Kyoto and ceramic pieces crafted by the noted Miyagawa family, whose creative legacy reaches back to the early Edo period and whose works are found in museums around the world.

Within this refined ambience, Master Chef Masaaki Miyakawa directs an exceptional team led by Executive Chef Tetsuya Uno, a respected sushi master with thirty years’ experience. Supporting him are Sous Chef Soma Shibuya and Chef de Cuisine Mitsuteru Sasaki. All three trained intensively for years under Chef Miyakawa’s mentorship, gaining a deep understanding of his philosophy, techniques, discipline, and exacting standards.

Complementing this culinary expertise are Executive Manager Amy Jo and Manager Gavin Ho, who have served at a variety of Michelinstarred establishments and are highly accomplished at providing guests with discreet, attentive, customized service.

Miyakawa’s journey to becoming a globally celebrated sushi master is the stuff of legend. Although familiar with the secrets of sushi making from his youth, he originally studied French cooking at one of Sapporo’s most famous Michelin-starred restaurants before returning to his true passion. His unconventional career path through French cuisine has influenced his distinctive approach to flavor development and textural balance.

这是一种将味觉交付于寿司大师的用餐哲 学 由他量身谱写一段独一无二的味觉 旅程。餐厅雅致的空间体现了「侘寂」美 学 在自然的简朴中发掘美感。未经雕 饰的桧木、温润的材质、极简而通透的布局, 将一切焦点归于板前:寿司大师 与座上宾客之间的互动和交流。 仅设十席的板前台,选用一 棵来自长野县、树龄超过三百年 的木曾桧。工艺大师冈田先生刻意不上任何 涂料,以保留其天然本色及质感,并留下标 志性的枫叶镶嵌。这种自古用于皇室建筑 与伊势神宫的珍贵木材,体现了日本人对自 然材质的崇敬。除吧台座位外,另设有一间 十席的私人包厢。

主用餐区陈列着一系列艺术收藏品, 包括来自京都的古董花道编织花篮,以及著 名宫川家族创作的陶瓷作品。宫川家族的制 陶传承始于江户时代初期,其作品广受赞誉, 并被世界各地的博物馆所珍藏。

在如此精致的氛围中,宫川政明亲自 率领一支卓越的团队。团队由新任行政总厨 宇野哲也领军,他是一位拥有三十年丰富 经验、备受尊敬的名厨。行政副主厨川野知 太以及主厨佐佐木光辉则倾力辅佐。三位 核心成员均在宫川主厨的悉心指导下,历经 多年严格训练,深刻领悟了他的料理哲学、 精湛技艺、严谨的纪律,以及一丝不苟的至 高准则。

曾服务于多家米其林星级餐厅的总经 理 Amy Jo 及经理 Gavin Ho,凭借丰富经验, 以细致入微的贴心照料,确保服务如厨房 团队般精准讲究。

宫川主厨的厨艺历程,堪称传奇。尽 管他年少时便已熟悉寿司制作的奥秘,但他

The art of sushi transcends sustenance to become a celebration of the connections between nature, tradition, and the human spirit.

在这里,寿司的艺术超越了果 腹之需,升华为一曲颂扬自 然、传统与人文精神的颂歌。

Tetsuya Uno 宇野哲也

The restaurant’s imaginative, elevated omakase menus reflect this in their use of the world’s finest seasonal ingredients, including many sourced from legacy growers and family fishers in Japan.

Signatures include sumptuous Shimane Black Abalone with Liver Sauce, a favorite from Miyakawa’s Sapporo restaurant. Black abalone from Shimane Prefecture, caught by the chef’s most trusted fisherman, is first fed with kombu to enlarge its liver and then slow-cooked for three hours with water, sake, and kombu. Served with a luscious sauce made from abalone broth and liver, it is an unforgettable delicacy that honors the essence of every ingredient.

Another standout is Kuruma-ebi, Japanese tiger prawns, which are gently simmered and then immediately shaped into sushi and served warm. Delicately half-raw, they retain all of their exquisite sweetness and aroma.

Chu-toro, often considered the perfect cut of tuna, is marinated in home-brewed soy sauce for up to five hours and deftly crafted into sushi bursting with rich, velvety umami – balanced, luxurious, and utterly satisfying.

Guests at the counter witness all of this sushi sorcery up close as chefs curate authentic, bespoke, interactive culinary journeys perfectly attuned to the preferences of each diner. Drawing on decades of training and finely honed techniques passed down through generations, they ensure that every delectable bite is crafted with zenlike attention to detail.

At Sushi Kissho by Miyakawa, the art of sushi transcends sustenance to become a celebration of the connections between nature, tradition, and the human spirit.

最初却在札幌一家久负盛名的米其林星级餐厅 研习法式料理,而后才重返本心。这段法国料理 的学习之路,赋予了他对风味层次与口感平衡的 独特见解。

餐厅匠心独运的「厨师发办」菜单,正是这 一理念的凝结。总厨严选全球顶级时令食材,包 括来自日本世代传承的农家与渔民之手的珍品。 招牌菜式包括源自札幌本店的岛根黑鲍鱼。由主 厨信赖的渔人所捕获的岛根黑鲍,先以昆布喂养, 令其肝脏更为肥美,再以水、清酒与昆布慢火炖 煮三小时。配搭以鲍鱼高汤与肝脏熬成的浓郁酱 汁,浓醇深邃,是对食材本味的最高礼赞。

另一道不容错过的佳肴是香甜鲜美的日本 车海老。大虎虾经轻柔炖煮,即刻捏制成寿司, 温润上桌。虾肉呈现出半熟状态,保留了其精致 甘甜与香气。

被誉为金枪鱼的完美部位的「中腹」,以自 家酿制的酱油悉心腌制长达五小时。捏制成寿司 后,入口如天鹅绒般丰腴浓郁,鲜味平衡且令人 无比满足。

当宾客坐在板前,便能近距离感受寿司技 艺的精髓。主厨们凭借数十年的历练与世代相传 的精湛技艺,以近乎禅意的专注,确保每一口 都美味动人。

在「鮨吉祥 宫川」,寿司的艺术超越了果腹 之需,升华为一曲颂扬自然、传统与人文精神的 颂歌。

Shimane Black Abalone

Chef Kevin Zhu

reimagination with finesse

At Lakeview Palace, Chef Kevin Zhu masterfully blends two culinary traditions with his Modern Jiangnan Cuisine.

Executive

and Taro Purée 荔茸鲜虾文武鹅酿关东参

AT

WYNN PALACE’S LAKEVIEW PALACE, Executive Chef Kevin Zhu has developed his signature Modern Jiangnan Cuisine by spending years mastering the Cantonese culinary legacy before immersing himself in Huaiyang food culture. As he puts it, “It’s not about competition but rather about taking the best from each and allowing them to complement one another.”

Both Cantonese and Huaiyang cuisines emphasize freshness and natural flavors, but they differ in their approaches to umami. Cantonese derives it directly from ingredients, while Huaiyang concentrates it in broths. The restaurant’s signature Double-boiled Three-layer Duck Supreme Soup in Lingnan Style exemplifies Zhu’s syncretism in one pot. The dish builds on the Huaiyang classic of domestic duck stuffed with wild duck and pigeon, and the broth incorporates the “three treasures of Lingnan,” dried tangerine peel, olive, and rice straw. It also showcases the remarkable “invisible” knife work of Huaiyang cuisine.

Assorted dim sum 各式精美点心

中国澳门永利皇宫「永翠宫」的行政总厨 朱光盼先深耕粤菜多年,再钻研淮扬饮 食文化,让餐厅主打的「新江南菜」辟出 一席之地。他常说:「不是互争风头,而 是各取优点、相辅相成。」

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

Similar to Cantonese cuisine, Huaiyang cuisine also features a rich dim sum culture, though its interpretations differ in style and presentation. Crystal Skin Dumplings with Min Dong Yellow Croaker requires expert removal of the fish skin in one deft motion before wrapping it around crystal dumpling skin – skin within skin – and the croaker, grouper, and water chestnut create layers of umami. Zhu’s River Shrimp Siu Mai with Lava Egg Yolk uses hand-peeled river shrimp instead of the usual tiger prawns, and a quail egg yolk nestled in the filling demands precise timing to achieve a perfect liquid center.

For Braised Kanto Sea Cucumber Stuffed with Shrimp, Goose and Taro Purée, inspired by Nanjing’s classic dish wen-wu duck, Chef Zhu prepares Magang goose two ways, one sweet and delicate, the other aromatic and robust. Hand-beaten shrimp paste is blended with the goose and stuffed into thick sea cucumber, coated in taro purée, slowly fried until crispy, and finished with black pepper sauce.

Chef Zhu is convinced that, with centuries of culinary heritage behind it, the story of Modern Jiangnan Cuisine has only just begun.

粤菜与淮扬,两者同样清中见鲜、 原汁原味,分野在于鲜味的来源 粤 菜的鲜在食材,淮扬的鲜则在 汤。餐厅招牌「岭南三宝炖三 套鸭汤」便是最佳例证:以淮 扬经典的家鸭套野鸭、野鸭套 鸽仔为主心骨,汤底融入有「岭 南三宝」之称的陈皮、橄榄及 禾秆草,把两种风土共冶一锅。 这道菜亦展现了淮扬菜精妙绝伦、近乎 「无形」的刀工技艺。

媲美粤菜,淮扬菜亦发展出丰富的 点心文化,风格与呈现各有千秋。「闽东 黄鱼水晶粿」需将黄鱼完整起皮,落刀果 敢、一气呵成,再用来包水晶粿皮,皮中 有皮,内里的黄鱼丁、东星斑丁、马蹄三 重鲜味环环相扣;「河虾仁流心烧卖」以 人手脱壳的河虾,代替常用的九节虾,更 酿入鹌鹑蛋黄,火候拿捏全在分毫之间。 「荔茸鲜虾文武鹅酿关东参」的创作 灵感源自南京名菜文武鸭。朱师傅把马 岗鹅做成一鹅两味:一款原鲜,一款果 木烤制,一鲜甜一焦香。竹节虾手打成虾 滑,与文武鹅一同酿进肥厚关东参,裹上 荔茸慢炸至酥香,佐以黑椒汁收味。

朱师傅认为江南有数百年的饮食底 蕴,而新江南的故事,才刚上演。

Braised Kanto Sea Cucumber Stuffed with Shrimp, Goose
Julien Tongourian

hallowed alliance

Robuchon au Dôme and Dom Pérignon, two renowned trailblazers in the world of gastronomy, discover their mutual affinities.

“M. JOËL ROBUCHON once considered a career in the church,” says Executive Chef Julien Tongourian of Macau’s three-Michelinstar Robuchon au Dôme in discussing his late mentor. “He was educated in a seminary and used to help the nuns in the kitchen. Then he realized that cooking was his true calling.” Tongourian is in conversation with Dom Pérignon Winemaker and Operational Project Manager Amine Ghanem.

“Dom Pérignon was a devoted Benedictine monk,” notes Ghanem. “But he was also the cellarer who was responsible for foodstuffs and wine. There are parallels between his life and that of M. Robuchon.”

Ghanem has come to Robuchon au Dôme to welcome its acclaimed chef into the Dom Pérignon Society, an invitation-only circle of top global dining destinations. It was founded in 2019 by Chef de Cave Vincent Chaperon with the goal of achieving perfect harmony between food and wine.

Members, who include leading chefs and sommeliers from around the world, interact and share gastronomic philosophies. Ghanem compares the Society to Dom Pérignon’s viticultural ethos by which vineyard parcels are cultivated individually to express their unique characters. The combination of these distinct wines is what gives each Dom Pérignon vintage its energy and tension. “We want members to bring their own identities, charisma, and creativity to the Society – like the individual parcels do to the assemblage,” he explains. “It’s a collective – we don’t want to assimilate everyone.”

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID

「Joël Robuchon 先生曾考虑过投身教职。」中国 澳门三星米其林餐厅天巢法国餐厅的行政总厨 Julien Tongourian 在谈及他已故的恩师时说。「他 曾在神学院接受教育,也常在厨房帮修女下厨。后 来他意识到烹饪才是他真正的使命。」Julien 正与 Dom Pérignon 酿酒师兼营运项目经理 Amine Ghanem 促膝交谈。Amine 说: 「Dom Pérignon 是一位虔诚的本笃会修 士,但他同时也是负责食品与葡萄酒的 管理员。他的人生与 Robuchon 先生之 间,存在着不少平行之处。」

To celebrate his membership, Tongourian on April 24 hosted a six-course dinner titled HARMONY, pairing his magnificent French dishes with rare Dom Pérignon vintages from the restaurant’s cellar. “Wine is such an important part of both Robuchon au Dôme in Macau and Robuchon Hong Kong,” he said. “We both have

Amine 这次到访天巢法国餐 厅,正是为了欢迎这位备受赞誉的主厨加入 Dom Pérignon Society。该协会由酒窖大师 Vincent Chaperon 于 2019 年创立,由全球多家顶级食府组 成,并实行邀请制,旨在追求美食与美酒之间的完 美和谐。

协会成员包括来自世界各地的顶尖主厨与侍酒 师,彼此交流、分享美食哲学。Amine 将协会比作 Dom Pérignon 的葡萄种植理念:葡萄园中的每一

1996 Dom Pérignon P2. 鱼子酱帝王蟹塔伴海鲜冻与1996年 份Dom Pérignon P2完美互补。

Imperial Caviar and King Crab with Crustacean Jelly was complemented perfectly by

exceptional cellars. For me, it’s essential to have the best wines to go with his dishes. I love to present these superb Champagnes to my guests and see their delight when they taste them.”

Dom Pérignon has just released three special vintages, which Tongourian is excited to share with his guests in the future: Dom Pérignon Vintage 2017, Dom Pérignon Rosé Vintage 2010, and Dom Pérignon Vintage 2008 Plénitude 2. However, this dinner was designed to highlight the depth and character of mature Dom Pérignon vintages from the 1990s. Tongourian crafted a seafood-forward menu, occasionally using Champagne as an ingredient as well as an accompaniment. His Steamed Brittany Wild Turbot with Shellfish and Champagne Sauce was served with Dom Pérignon Vintage 1998 Plénitude 2. Imperial Caviar and King Crab with Crustacean Jelly was complemented perfectly by Dom Pérignon Vintage 1996 Plénitude 2.

The most senior wine, Dom Pérignon Vintage 1993 Œnothèque, matched beautifully with a Cocotte of Blue Lobster, Morel Mushroom, and Chervil, the mushroom lending a forest-floor note to mirror the maturity of the vintage. Tongourian selected Dom Pérignon Rosé Vintage 1996, a wine robust enough to enhance stronger flavors, to pair with his Limousin Veal Rack with Macaroni Pasta Stuffing and Baby Spinach. And the evening concluded with a refreshing dessert of Strawberry Gariguette, Rosé Champagne Jelly and Sorbet, served with Dom Pérignon Vintage 1995 Plénitude 2 Rosé.

“I feel the presence of M. Robuchon with me as I cook, and it feels like support,” said Tongourian.

“It’s the same for me,” said Ghanem.

“I feel Dom Pérignon is looking down on us as we continue his work, ensuring that his legacy will act as a sounding board for the future of gastronomy.”

Devin Pun, managing director of Moët Hennessy Diageo Hong Kong & Macau, welcomes Chef Tongourian into the Dom Pérignon Society. 酩悦轩尼诗帝亚吉欧港澳董事总经理Devin Pun, 欢迎Julien Tongourian主厨加入Dom Pérignon Society。

块土地都被单独培育,以展现其独特风土。正是这些各具特色的葡萄酒 之间相融合,为每一款 Dom Pérignon 年份酒赋予了活力与张力。他解释: 「我们希望每位成员都能带来自己的个性、魅力与创造力 正如每一块 葡萄田对混酿的贡献。这是一个集体,我们不希望所有人都被同化。」

为庆祝这项荣耀,Julien 于 4 月 24 日呈献了一场名为「HARMONY」 的六道菜晚宴,将他的法式佳肴与酒窖中珍藏的稀有 Dom Pérignon 年份 酒一一搭配。他说:「葡萄酒是澳门法国天巢餐厅和香港 L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon 不可或缺的一部分。我们都拥有非凡的酒窖。对我而言,为他 的佳肴配上最好的葡萄酒至关重要。我乐于将这些卓越的香槟呈现给宾 客,并看到他们品尝时眼中洋溢的喜悦。」

Dom Pérignon 刚推出了三个特殊年份香槟,Julien 很期待在未來与 宾客分享:Dom Pérignon 2017 年份香槟、Dom Pérignon 2010 年份粉红 香槟,以及 Dom Pérignon 2008 年份香槟 Plénitude 2。而这场晚宴旨在 展现 20 世纪 90 年代成熟的 Dom Pérignon 年份酒,以及这些香槟的深 度与个性。Julien 精心设计了一份以海鲜为主角的菜单,时而将香槟作为 食材,时而作为佐餐酒。他的「布列塔尼多宝鱼配贝类与香槟酱」搭配了 Dom Pérignon 1998 年份香槟 Plénitude 2,「鱼子酱帝王蟹塔伴海鲜冻」 则与 Dom Pérignon 1996 年份香槟 Plénitude 2 完美互补。

其中最具分量的酒款 ——Dom Pérignon 1993 年份香槟 Œnothèque, 与「法式蓝龙虾、羊肚菌与细叶芹煲」堪称绝配,菇菌的森林气息恰如其 分地映衬了这款陈年佳酿的醇厚。Julien 特别选用了风味醇厚、足以提升 浓郁口感的 Dom Pérignon 1996 年份粉红香槟,来搭配「利穆赞小牛扒 配通心粉馅与嫩菠菜」。晚宴以清爽的甜品「加里盖特草莓配玫瑰香槟果 冻与雪葩」收尾,佐以 Dom Pérignon 1995 年份粉红香槟 Plénitude 2。 Julien 说:「烹饪时,我能感受到 Robuchon 先生与我同在,就像在 一直支持我。」Amine 表示:「我也是如此。我感觉 Dom Pérignon 正从 天上看着我们继续他的事业,确保他的传承得以延续,并为美食的未来 提供一个发展的平台。」

passing the plate

Chef Pichaya Soontornyanakij’s collaboration with MGallery Collection turns cocktailpaired bar bites into a conversation between kitchens, cultures, and craft.

FOR WORLD COCKTAIL MONTH 2026, MG allery Collection is extending its Art of Mixology beyond the glass, inviting Chef Pichaya “Pam” Soontornyanakij, founder of Bangkok’s Michelin-starred Potong, to create a menu of cocktail-paired bar bites for sixteen participating properties.

The initiative sits naturally within MGallery’s broader vision of the bar as a destination in its own right, where cocktails and cuisine combine to make the bar experience more distinctive and memorable for guests. Soontornyanakij began with five core bites to be served across all participating properties, bringing some of the precision and finesse of fine dining into the rhythm of the bar. From there, she developed regional variations shaped by local ingredients and culinary references. In Asia, those interpretations range from soy-lacquered beef rib in warm mantou to lemongrass maguro tartare on crispy rice to shrimp toast with sweet chili gel.

DAVID HARTUNG
(from left to right) Gino Ryu, Hotel Naru Seoul; Jhamnong Kraitong, Hotel Sosei Sapporo; Álvaro de la Puerta, Avista Hideaway Patong Phuket; Pichaya “Pam” Soontornyanakij; Felix Bamert, V Villas Maldives at Mirihi; Henery Chun, Ming Hotel Nanjing; Cheng Chun Fai, The Silveri Hong Kong
Caviar-Crowned Tartare, paired with Cocktail Prohibition Martini
Cocktail Prohibition Martini

Across properties, working with chefs became an exchange of techniques, ingredients, and local knowledge.

与各地的厨师合作,也是交流技法、食材与地方知识的机会。

For Soontornyanakij, the project had to offer more than a set of recipes. Her exacting standards shaped the approach from the start, with training central to how the dishes would be reproduced across kitchens. She wanted them to be prepared as taught, with recipes written “as precise as possible, down to the centimeter of the squid.” At the same time, she knew that consistency would require some adjustment from one market to the next. Ingredients, she notes, differ by region, so the task was not simply to replicate the recipes but to preserve the character of each dish across multiple kitchens. “We have to adapt in each location, and I think that’s part of the challenge and the charm of cooking.”

The result was a joint effort shaped as much by exchange as by execution. Working with chefs across the participating properties became a passing back and forth of techniques, ingredients, and local knowledge. “When chefs collaborate like this, it’s not just one-way,” Soontornyanakij says. “My team and I learn from them as well. Nowadays, it’s about learning.”

为了迎接 2026 年世界鸡尾酒月,美憬阁酒店品牌将其「调酒艺 术」延伸至酒杯之外,邀请曼谷米其林星级餐厅 Potong 的创始人 Pichaya “Pam” Soontornyanakij 主厨,为旗下十六家参与活动的 酒店设计佐酒小食菜单。

这一理念也自然融入了美憬阁的品牌愿景之中,让酒吧本身 成为目的地。在这里,鸡尾酒与美食相结合,为宾客带来更加独特 且难忘的酒吧体验。Pam 首先创作了五款核心小食,在参与的酒店 中供应,将精致餐饮的精准与细腻注入酒吧的律动之中。在此基 础上,她又根据当地食材与烹饪特色,开发出别具地域风情的演绎。 在亚洲,这些作品包括:搭配温热馒头的酱油烤牛肋排、置于香脆 米饼上的香茅金枪鱼塔塔,以及搭配甜辣啫喱的虾多士。

对于 Pam 而言,这个项目远不止提供几道菜谱那么简单。她 的严谨标准贯穿绐终,而培训,正是确保各个厨房能够精准复刻 这些菜式的关键。她希望菜式能严格按照她传授的配方制作,食 谱要「尽可能精确,精确到鱿鱼的尺寸」。同时,她也深知,为确保 一致,就需要根据不同市场进行适当调整。她指出,食材因地而异, 所以任务不仅是复制食谱,更要在不同厨房中保留每道菜的独特韵 味。「我们必须因地制宜。这既是挑战,也是烹饪的魅力所在。」

最终成果是一场融合了执行与交流的集体创作。与参与酒店 的厨师们合作,也成为交流技法、食材与地方知识的过程。Pam 说: 「这种合作并非单向的。我和我的团队也能从他们身上学到东西。 如今,保持学习才是最要紧的事。」

caption 或

奶酪至上

When British Cheddar and yogurt enter the picture, chicken tikka, naan, and lassi get intriguing twists from Manav Tuli, founder and chef of acclaimed Indian restaurant Leela. cheese, please

THE TIME-HONORED, naturally sustainable cheese-making traditions of England, Scotland, and Wales have produced hundreds of styles, each expressing the distinctive qualities of local milk, pastures, and aging methods. British cheeses, including such famous varieties as Cheddar, Stilton, Cheshire, Double Gloucester, and Red Leicester, are prized for unrivaled flavor and quality by top chefs worldwide.

Chef Manav Tuli at Leela in Hong Kong, for example, has imaginatively starred British Cheddar in two new recipes created in partnership with the UK ’s Agriculture and Horticulture Development Board (AHDB).

英格兰、苏格兰和威尔士拥有历史悠久、自然且 可持续的奶酪制作传统,孕育出数百种风味,每 一种奶酪都承载着当地牛奶、牧场与熟成工艺 的独特印记。包括切达、斯蒂尔顿、柴郡、双格 洛斯特和红莱斯特等知名品种在内 的英国奶酪,凭借无与伦比的风味与 品质,备受全球顶尖厨师的推崇。

BY

Meadow Valley Mature Cheese from Bridge Cheese enhances the complex flavors of Tuli’s Fresh Turmeric Chicken Tikka. “The special thing about this Meadow Valley variety,” says Tuli, “is that it already has a lot of character on its own. In combination with this recipe’s seasonings, it’s very special.”

The dish is inspired by murgh tikka Mirza Hasnoo, a historic

香港 Leela 餐厅的主厨 Manav Tuli 便别出心裁地在与英国农业与园 艺发展局(AHDB)的合作中,将英国 切达奶酪融入两款新菜式中。

Manav 选用了来自生产商 Bridge Cheese 的 Meadow Valley 熟成奶酪,为他的「姜黄烤 鸡块」增添风味层次。他表示:「这款奶酪本身 已极具个性,融入菜式的丰富调味后,效果非常 出色。」

这道菜的灵感源自一道历史悠久的勒克瑙

↑ Smoked Chili Cheese Naan 烟熏辣椒奶酪烤饼

Lucknow royal court delicacy. Tuli steeps the chicken in a brine and then coats it in a spiced marinade with the cheese. Finally, he bakes it in the tandoor to a charred tikka finish. Aromatics are pared to a single anchor of fresh turmeric for a spice profile that supports rather than competes with the cheese.

In his Smoked Chili Cheese Naan, Tuli takes full advantage of Wyke Farms Smoked Cheddar cheese, a variety he loves for the way its subtle smokiness complements the deliciously blistered charring of the naan. A supple dough, worked with yogurt, milk, and egg and balanced with salt and a touch of sugar, is portioned into balls. The cheese is tucked into the center of each piece, which is then pressed out by hand. Baked quickly in the tandoor, the soft, airy, chewy naan emerges with a heavenly molten core.

For a luscious refresher, it’s Tuli’s Mango and Coconut Lassi, starring Skyr Natural Yogurt from Graham’s The Family Dairy. The pureed fruits are blended with the yogurt, sugar, milk, and green cardamom powder and served delightfully chilled.

宫廷菜。Manav 先将鸡肉浸泡在盐水中,然后裹 上加入奶酪腌料。最后,他在土炉中烹制鸡块, 带来迷人的焦香。香料运用精简,仅以姜黄作点 睛之笔,打造出既衬托奶酪,又不喧宾夺主的风 味组合。

在另一道菜式「烟熏辣椒奶酪烤饼」中, Manav 充分利用了 Wyke Farms 的烟熏切达奶 酪。那淡淡的烟熏味,恰好能衬托出烤餅的焦香。

Manav 将加入酸奶、牛奶和鸡蛋并揉至柔 软的面团,用盐和少许糖调味,再分成重量一致 的小球。他将奶酪包裹在面团中心,然后用手压 平。在土炉中快速烘烤后,烤饼变得松软而带嚼 劲,而中间的流心馅料更是奶酪香四溢。

若想品尝一款清爽饮品,芒果椰子拉昔就 是不二之选。他将来自 Graham’s The Family Dairy 的 Skyr 天然酸奶与水果泥、糖、牛奶及绿 豆蔻粉混合,再冰爽上桌,令人回味无穷。

← ←
Manav Tuli
← Fresh Turmeric Chicken Tikka 姜黄烤鸡块

绽放之味

in full bloom

At Ami, Chef Nicolas Boutin lets each ingredient have its moment, whether in dishes refined over years or in those shaped by the season at hand.

“IT’S COMPLICATED to keep things simple,” says Executive Chef Nicolas Boutin of Ami, the contemporary French restaurant in Central’s Alexandra House that marks its fifth anniversary this year. Boutin’s philosophy, uncluttered, unpretentious, and ingredient-led, runs through every dish, from the spring arrivals to the signatures he has fine-tuned since opening. It finds its second voice in the cellar of General Manager and Group Wine Director Sebastien Allano, whose pairings carry the same restraint from plate to glass.

At heart, Allano’s approach mirrors Boutin’s. The cellar leans on traditional terroirs and well-executed classics, with a quieter shelf of niche growers for guests inclined to explore. “Pairing is something that evolves with time,” he says. “You always have to keep learning.” He and the chef taste widely together, even the wines they know won’t work, because the misses teach as much as the matches.

「把简单的事做好,其实最不简单。」Ami 的行政总厨 Nicolas Boutin 如是说。这间位于中环历山大厦的当 代法式餐厅,今年迎来了五周年。Nicolas 的料理哲 学 简洁、质朴、以食材为本 贯穿每一道菜。 从春季新作到自开业以来不断打磨的招牌菜,无一 例外。这理念在总经理兼集团酒务总监 Sebastien Allano 的酒窖中得到了呼应,他的配酒与 菜式,同样带有克制而精准之美。

Sebastien 的思路与 Nicolas 不谋而 合。酒窖以传统风土和精湛的经典酒款 为基石,同时也为乐于探索的客人留有一 隅小众酒款。Sebastien 说:「餐酒搭配 是一件随着时间不断演进的事,你需要 持续学习。」他常与主厨一同品鉴,甚至连那些明知 不会成功的酒也不放过,因为失败与成功一样,都 能让人有所收获。

Boutin’s white asparagus comes from the Loire Valley near Richelieu, minutes from where he grew up. Cooked twice daily and never shocked in ice, the spears retain their unhurried earthiness. He slices them into petals around an egg slow-cooked at sixty degrees for three hours, then scatters capers, croutons, and a flurry of orange peel. Allano pours Domaine des Sables Verts

Nicolas 的白芦笋来自卢瓦尔河谷的黎塞留附 近,距他成长的故乡仅数步之遥。芦笋每日烹煮 两次,从不过冰水,因此保留了那份从容的泥土气 息。他将芦笋切成花瓣状,环绕着一颗以六十度慢 煮三小时的鸡蛋,再撒上酸豆、面包丁和一缕橙皮。

Sebastien 为之搭配的酒款是 Domaine des Sables

Saumur Blanc “Les Rouères” 2022, a chenin blanc whose stony acidity threads the egg’s richness and the asparagus’s vegetal bite.

“I come in at seven in the morning to prepare the mise en place and try new dishes,” says Boutin, “as well as to work on the puff pastry.” Ami’s vol-au-vent, a signature since opening, reveals the chef at his most exacting. He has spent years refining the ring to arrive at table flaky and crisp rather than puffed and pale. Inside you can taste lobster, scallop, and a crustacean sauce framed by carrot puree, samphire, and petits pois. Allano pairs it with Domaine Cécile Tremblay Chambolle-Musigny “Les Cabottes” 2021, a pinot noir of restrained extraction whose tannins round against the sauce’s depth.

For dessert, the chocolate tart departs from convention. A dome rather than a disc, it layers salted caramelized apple, Valrhona Manjari 64% dark chocolate mousse, and a glass-thin opaline shard. “You’re in a restaurant. It should be delicate, but still better,” Boutin says. Allano reaches for D’Oliveiras Sercial Madeira 1989, whose lift cuts the cocoa’s weight without flattening the palate.

“Moins c’est plus,” Boutin concludes. “Make it clean as much as possible. That’s the work behind every plate.”

Verts Saumur Blanc “Les Rouères” 2022,其矿石般 的酸度穿针引线,串联起蛋液的丰腴与芦笋的清脆。

主厨表示:「我每天早上七点就进厨房,开始准 备工作和研发新菜式,也会处理酥皮。」Ami 自开业 以来的招牌菜「海鲜酥皮盒」,展现了他的极致追求。

Nicolas 多年来反复打磨酥皮,只为让它上桌时酥脆 利落,而非蓬松苍白。 酥皮盒之内,是以龙虾、扇 贝与甲壳类熬制的酱汁,佐以胡萝卜泥、海蓬子和青 豆。Sebastien 为这道菜选了 Domaine Cécile Tremblay Chambolle-Musigny “Les Cabottes” 2021,它的酒体克 制,单宁圆润,与酱汁的深邃相互映衬,柔和了整体 口感。

甜品方面,巧克力塔亦打破常规。它不以扁平 之姿呈现,而是呈现了穹顶造型,以咸焦糖苹果、法 芙娜曼特尼 64% 黑巧克力慕斯和一片薄如玻璃的糖 片层层叠叠。Nicolas 表示:「你是在餐厅用餐,甜品 应该精致,但还要更上一层楼。」Sebastien 则选了 D’Oliveiras Sercial Madeira 1989,这款马德拉酒的清 爽酸度恰好削去了可可的厚重,却不至于让味蕾变得 平淡。

Nicolas 总结:「Moins c’est plus(少即是多)。尽 可能地做得简洁。这才是每一道菜背后的功夫。」

Nicolas Boutin ←
White asparagus 白芦笋
Vol-au-vent 海鲜酥皮盒

南法夏光 感官协奏

SUN-DRENCHED PLATES

Christofle’s radiant Riviera Collection sets an inviting scene at La Terrace by Louise.

ON A BALMY AND BLUE-SKIED DAY in Hong Kong, a delightful feast unfolds in a secret garden – unpretentious, fresh, and flavorforward. The bright colors of this culinary spread – and the vibrant, effortlessly refined tableware the meal is served on – perfectly befit the sun-dappled surroundings of French restaurant La Terrace by Louise.

Nestled on the ground floor of a heritage-listed colonial house, La Terrace is a gently convivial concept that grounds the elegant, Michelin-starred fine dining of upstairs sister restaurant Louise with a chicly relaxed approach inspired by its leafy setting.

那是个温暖晴朗的夏日,一场令人愉悦的盛宴 在中国香港一座秘境花园中徐徐展开 朴实、 清新、风味至上。这场盛宴的明亮色彩,以及盛 放美食的那套充满活力、优雅而毫不费力的餐 具,与法国餐厅 La Terrace by Louise 洒满阳光 的环境完美相融。

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAMANTHA SIN

Today’s meal is as much visual feast as culinary experience. Just in time for the warmer months, Executive Chef Loïc Portalier has collaborated with French luxury brand Christofle, choosing pieces from its luminous yellow Malmaison Riviera porcelain collection to showcase some of the restaurant’s signature and summer-inspired dishes.

While Christofle’s nearly two-century tradition of craftsmanship is unmistakable in the Malmaison Riviera collection, its glowing hues and hand-painted motifs bring a fresh, lighthearted, modern twist. They offer a gentle nod to the Provençal kitchen, bustling with life and ever busy with Sunday family feasts.

“The Malmaison Riviera collection is classic in shape but contemporary in style,” notes Portalier. “That’s also how we approach our food at La Terrace – traditional favorites presented in a way that’s modern and easygoing. The idea behind this collaboration was to evoke that warm feeling you get when you come home for the weekend and your mother makes all of your favorite dishes. Everyone is around the table sharing, and it brings a smile to your face for the rest of the week.”

La Terrace 坐落于一栋被列为文化遗产的 殖民风格老宅地面层,氛围亲切温 馨。它将楼上米其林星级姐妹餐厅 Louise 的精致餐饮,与其绿意盎然 的环境融合,营造出一种时髦而从 容的气氛。

这场宴会既是味觉的体验,也 是一场视觉的盛宴。为迎接温暖的 初夏,行政总厨 Loïc Portalier 与法国高端银器 品牌 Christofle(昆庭)携手,从其亮黄色的马 勒梅松海滨系列(Malmaison Riviera)瓷器中挑 选了几款餐具,来呈现餐厅的招牌菜与夏日灵感 新作。

Christofle 近两个世纪的匠心传承,在马勒 梅松海滨系列中展露无遗,而其明亮的色调与手 绘图案,则赋予了它轻快、现代的清新气息。它 们向普罗旺斯那充满生活气息、总是为周日家庭 聚会而热闹忙碌的厨房,致以温柔的敬意。

Loïc 指出:「马勒梅松海滨系列造型经典, 但风格现代,这也正是我们对待料理的方式: 以现代而随性的方式呈现传统风味。这次合作 的初衷,是为了唤起那种周末回家、母亲做了一 桌你最爱吃的菜,全家人围坐分享的温暖感受。 那份幸福感,足以让你回味一整周。」

“The first thing that comes to mind when you see the Malmaison Riviera collection is lemons, sunshine, and the Mediterranean coastline.

看到马勒梅松海滨系列,首先在脑海中浮现 的就是柠檬、阳光,还有地中海海岸线。”

Loïc Portalier

When it comes to favorite dishes, the chef makes it hard to choose. For a start, smoked cured sardine and a rich romesco made with piquillo peppers are served on grilled sourdough toast on a small plate reminiscent of a freshly cut lemon. Next to them is a pretty bowl of deliciously seasoned, irresistible sago “arancini,” arousing suitable expectations for the rest of the menu.

“The first thing that comes to mind when you see the Malmaison Riviera collection is lemons, sunshine, and the Mediterranean coastline,” says Portalier. “These little plates are ideal for light bites – they perfectly match the refreshing flavors and colors.”

As if to underscore the point, the next dish is a visually stunning medley of vine-ripened datterino tomatoes, burrata, and vivid green basil oil served in a soup bowl with a cheery yellow rim. “The shape and size of a serving bowl is important,” says the chef. “This one holds the dressing perfectly and complements the colors in the dish without overpowering them.”

The menu’s main dish is Portalier’s Signature Roasted Chicken, a beloved mainstay at Louise. Cooked over a period of four days, it is magnificently presented on a generous oval platter that invites sharing. “This is my take on a classic French Sunday dish,” says Portalier, “and the Malmaison Riviera platter works beautifully – it looks full and welcoming on the table.”

The dessert, served on an exquisite yellow plate, epitomizes summer: Amalfi Lemon Givré, its lemon and basil sorbet encased in a lemon and topped with a leaf-shaped tuile. “It’s lovely with this plate – yellow on yellow, lemon on lemon. It captures the feeling of the Amalfi coast on a hot afternoon,” says Portalier. “I feel transported – like being on holiday.”

In its essence, French cuisine is social, and dining is an occasion to gather and share with family and friends. At La Terrace, Portalier leans into this gracious tradition by devising dishes that foster conviviality and serving them family-style, under verdant foliage and on alluring tableware that radiates warmth and Mediterranean hospitality. Chef Portalier and Christofle have indeed succeeded in creating a ravishing Riviera escape right in the heart of Hong Kong.

说到最爱的菜式,Loïc 坦言难以抉择。开胃 菜是烟熏腌沙丁鱼,搭配用皮奎洛辣椒制成的浓 郁罗曼斯可酱,放在烤酸种面包上,再装在一只 形似鲜切柠檬的小碟里。旁边是一碗调味恰到好 处、令人无法抗拒的西米「炸饭团」,为接下来的 美味铺垫了期待。

Loïc 说:「看到马勒梅松海滨系列,首先在脑 海中浮现的就是柠檬、阳光,还有地中海海岸线。 这些小碟非常适合轻食小吃,与清爽的风味和明 亮的色彩完美契合。」

仿佛是为了印证这一点,下一道菜堪称视觉 盛宴:藤上熟成的达特里诺番茄、布拉塔奶酪, 以及鲜亮的绿色罗勒油,盛放在一只带有明黄色 碗边的汤碗中。Loïc 说:「汤碗的形状和大小很重 要。这只碗恰到好处地盛住酱汁,衬托了菜肴的 色彩,却不会喧宾夺主。」

主菜是 Loïc 的招牌烤鸡,这也是 Louise 备 受喜爱的经典菜式。经过四天的精心慢烤,它被 盛放在一只宽敞的椭圆形大盘中华丽上桌,充满 了分享的欢愉。Loïc 说:「这是我对经典法式周日 大餐的演绎,马勒梅松海滨系列的大盘用在这里 再适合不过了。它端上桌时,看起来丰盛而温馨。」

甜品盛放在一只精致的黄色餐盘上,尽显夏 日风情:阿马尔菲柠檬雪葩 柠檬与罗勒制成 的雪葩被包裹在整颗柠檬中,顶部点缀一片叶形 薄脆。Loïc 说:「它和这只盘子简直是绝配 黄 色映衬黄色,柠檬呼应柠檬。它捕捉了阿马尔菲 海岸炎热午后的感觉,我仿佛被带到了那里享受 假期。」

法式料理的本质是社交,用餐是与家人朋 友相聚、分享的时刻。在 La Terrace,Loïc 融入了 这个优雅的传统,创作出促进欢聚的菜式,并以 家庭分享的形式呈现 在翠绿的树荫下,盛放 在散发着温暖与地中海好客之情的迷人餐具之中。 Loïc 与 Christofle 成功地在香港市中心,打造了一 场令人心驰神往的海滨度假之旅。

rituals recomposed

At The St. Regis Bar Macao, newly appointed Director of Food & Beverage Konstantin Nemolochnyi reframes the city’s drinking scene, letting the the bar’s enduring rituals speak for themselves.

THE FIRST COCKTAIL SPOT that Konstantin Nemolochnyi visited in Macao was The St. Regis Bar, and he arrived with no preconceptions. The ambience impressed him first, then the cocktails, then the realization that had he been brought in blindfolded, Macao would not have been his first guess.

That moment of disorientation has come to define his approach to the role. Nemolochnyi joined The St. Regis Macao early this year as director of food and beverage, overseeing the hotel’s dining portfolio across The Manor, The St. Regis Bar, and beyond. His career trajectory reads like a passport stamp collection – The St. Regis, The Ritz-Carlton, Raffles, and Fairmont properties across Europe, the Middle East, and Asia have all benefited from his leadership.

瑞吉酒吧是 Konstantin Nemolochnyi 在中国澳 门造访的第一间鸡尾酒吧,当时他对澳门还没 有什么想法。这里的氛围先打动了他,接着是杯 中的酒。然后一个念头浮上来:他要是蒙着眼 被带进来,绝对不会想到这是澳门。

Macao, he observes, occupies a uniquely advantageous position in Asia’s cocktail landscape. While Singapore and Hong Kong command established respect on the regional map, Macao is rewriting its narrative in real time. Record tourist arrivals, the triumphant return of Asia’s 50 Best Bars ceremony to the territory, and a steady migration of elite bar talent from across the Pearl River Delta have fundamentally altered the equation. “Macao has one advantage – no one knows what to expect. And when you arrive without expectations, you tend to have the best time,” Nemolochnyi notes.

This philosophy of pleasant disorientation extends directly to his vision for The St. Regis Bar. His mission isn’t transformation but revelation – allowing the bar’s already sophisticated foundations to speak more clearly to a broader audience. The team he inherited embodies everything he values: technical mastery, cultural diversity, and an intuitive understanding of luxury hospitality’s unspoken rhythms.

Much of the bar’s current standing reflects years of meticulous cultivation. Head Mixologist Kevin Lai has spent the better part of a decade shaping its identity from behind the mahogany, and his dedication to craft excellence proved instrumental in securing The St. Regis Bar’s No. 22 ranking on Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2024. “The team is skilled, engaged, and from all over the world,” Nemolochnyi says.

那一刻的恍惚,渐渐塑造了他对这个新岗 位的思考。今年稍早,Konstantin 履新澳门瑞吉 酒店餐饮总监,统管酒店旗下的雅舍、瑞吉酒 吧及其他餐厅。他的职业生涯如同一 本集满印章的护照 从欧洲、中东, 再到亚洲多地的瑞吉、丽思卡尔顿、 莱佛士与费尔蒙酒店等担任要职。 在他看来,澳门在亚洲鸡尾酒 版图上占据着一个独特而有利的位 置。当新加坡和中国香港早已赢得稳 固声誉,澳门正悄悄换上新面貌。游客人数屡 创新高、「亚洲 50 最佳酒吧」颁奖礼荣耀回归、 珠三角地区的顶尖调酒人才持续流入,改写了 整个格局。他说:「澳门有一个优势,没人知道 该期待什么。而当你不带预期地走进来,往往 才最尽兴。」

这种令人愉悦的错位感恰恰延伸至他对瑞 吉酒吧的愿景。他的使命不是改变,而是「揭 示」 让酒吧精致的底蕴被更多人清晰看见。

他接手的团队正体现了他珍视的一切:技艺扎 实、文化多元,以及对奢华款待中那些不言自明 的节奏,有着直觉般的把握。 澳门瑞吉酒吧今天的名声,本就是经年累 月沉淀而成的。首席调酒师赖祥如花了近十年 时间,在吧台后方塑造其风貌。他对卓越技艺 的执着,正是瑞吉酒吧跻身 2024 年「亚洲 50 最佳酒吧」第 22 位的关键。Konstantin 说:「团 队技艺精湛、专注投入,来自五湖四海。我要 做的,就是让更多人发现他们之间的默契。」 有一些传统,他不会轻易变动,当中首推

Konstantin Nemolochnyi
Clockwise from top left: Terry, Gavin, Nick, Kevin

“I love that they’re not trying to be anyone else. They are who they are. That’s what excites people.

我喜欢他们不去模仿别人。

他们就是他们自己,这才动人。”

Konstantin Nemolochnyi

“You can see the synergy here. My job is to let more people discover it.”

Certain traditions remain inviolate, chief among them the St. Regis Bloody Mary – Maria do Leste – a daily ritual that transforms first-time visitors into devoted regulars. The presentation is theater and participation combined: premium spirit, house-made chorizo, and signature egg tart arrive separately, inviting each guest to become a brief collaborator in their own cocktail experience.

The principle governing every decision is refinement, though Nemolochnyi deploys the term in its most exacting sense of purity, precision, and the relentless pursuit of perfection. While much of the contemporary cocktail world chases novelty through molecular techniques, theatrical smoke, and centrifugal spectacle, his approach represents a deliberate return to fundamentals. “The timing, the temperature, the product itself are refined and redesigned – that intangible feel of delivering something simple in a very high-quality way.”

This philosophy manifests in every aspect of the bar’s operation. Each cocktail must satisfy three nonnegotiable criteria: simple in conception, exceptional in execution, and thoughtful in presentation. The supporting rituals handle the rest – afternoon tea service, evening sabrage ceremonies, and the iconic bar-side Bloody Mary preparation communicate the establishment’s values while providing the team with clear focal points for their expertise.

When pressed about his ultimate ambition for guest experience, Nemolochnyi’s response cuts through hospitality industry abstractions. “Excitement,” he states without hesitation. “Every journey to a bar carries emotional weight. First dates, celebrations, sometimes the most difficult days of someone’s life – a proper bar accommodates all of it. When someone steps through our doors, I want them to feel immediate confirmation: this is exactly right. The space, the drink, the entire atmosphere. They should want to settle in and remain.”

In May, the bar turned its attention to the people who make it run. To mark World Cocktail Day and the 220th anniversary of the word cocktail itself, Nemolochnyi invited four of his bartenders, Lai among them, to each reinterpret a beloved classic on their own terms. “I love that they’re not trying to be anyone else,” says Nemolochnyi. “They are who they are. That’s what excites people.”

瑞吉酒店的东方玛丽(Maria do Leste)。

这个每日仪式,能将初访的宾客转化为 忠实的常客。它的呈现既是剧场,也是 参与:顶级烈酒、自制辣肉肠和葡挞分 别送上,让每一位宾客在那短短一瞬, 亲自参与了这杯酒的创作。

他最看重的是「精细化」 追求 纯粹、精准、完美。当代业界纷纷追逐 分子技术、戏剧性烟雾、离心机,他则 选择回归经典。「时机、温度、原料本身 被反复推敲、重新构思。那种以极高品 质呈现简单之物的微妙手感,难以言传。」

这一理念体现在酒吧运营的各个方 面。每一杯酒都得满足三个不可妥协的 标准:构思简洁、执行卓越、呈现考究。 其余的,就交给仪式。下午茶、军刀开 香槟、吧台上的血腥玛丽 这些仪式 不仅向客人传递着这间酒吧的价值,也 为团队的专业技艺提供了清晰的着力点。

当被问及最终希望客人带走什么, 他的回答毫不绕弯。「兴奋。」他没有丝 毫犹豫地说。「每一次造访酒吧,都承 载着情感的重量。初次约会,庆祝时刻, 也可能是这辈子最难熬的一天 一间 好的酒吧,能容纳这一切。当客人走进来, 我希望他觉得:就是这里了。空间对了, 酒对了,整个氛围都对了。他想坐下来, 留下来。」

今年五月,酒吧把目光投向那些让 这一切运转起来的人。适逢「世界鸡尾 酒日」,也是「鸡尾酒」这个词诞生 220 周年,Konstantin 请麾下包括 Kevin 在 内的四位调酒师,每人按自己的方式重 新演绎一杯心爱的经典。Konstantin 说: 「我喜欢他们不去模仿别人。他们就是他 们自己,这才动人。」

FOUR CLASSICS, FOUR VOICES

World Cocktail Day specials. Created in tribute to 220 years of the cocktail.

「世界鸡尾酒日」特调。为纪念鸡尾酒诞生220周年而创作。

GOLDEN CRUST BY TERRY

An espresso martini inspired by a breakfast toast. Peanut-fat-washed Cognac, Elijah Craig bourbon, cold brew coffee, bread syrup, and clarified apple – creamy and round with a roasted finish.

一杯以早餐烤吐司为灵感的 Espresso Martini。 花生干邑、Elijah Craig 波本威士忌、冷萃咖啡、 面包糖浆,加上澄清苹果汁 绵密圆润,收 在一缕烘焙的余韵里。

ROYAL

A classic martini at its core. The St. Regis blend tea-infused gin meets Lagavulin 16 Year Old and dry vermouth in a glass that is smoky on the nose, bone-dry on the finish.

内核还是那杯经典的 Martini。瑞吉特调茶香 金酒,与乐加维林 16 年和干苦艾酒在杯中相遇。 一缕轻烟后,调酒入喉干净到底。

HUNTER’S MARK BY GAVIN

A nocturnal Manhattan. Cacao-infused bourbon, Amaro Montenegro, Fernet Hunter Cacao, and Mr Black Cold Brew Coffee Liqueur – herbal bitterness over chocolate.

一杯属于深夜的 Manhattan。可可波本威士忌、 蒙特内罗阿玛罗、Fernet Hunter 可可酒,以及 Mr Black 咖啡利口酒。草本的苦,落在巧克 力上。

EVER WONDERLAND BY NICK

A Jungle Bird recast as urban reverie. Butterfly pea rum, pineapple juice, banana juice, Suze, and Fernet Hunter, finished with orange blossom and a cloud of foam.

把 Jungle Bird 重写成一场都市梦境。以蝶豆 花朗姆酒、菠萝汁、香蕉汁、苏兹草本酒与 Fernet Hunter 利口酒调制而成,最后以橙花和 一抹轻盈泡沫收尾。

温酒知时

warm desires

The charms of sake lie in finding the right temperature for the moment.

清酒侍酒师加热一壶清酒,小心地提高温度,以激发清酒更柔和、醇厚、鲜美的口感。

A sake sommelier gently warms a carafe of sake, carefully raising the temperature to coax out greater softness, depth, and umami.

A SINGLE SAKE can reveal entirely different qualities depending on temperature. Served chilled, it may feel crisp and precise. When warmed, the same sake opens up, allowing hidden layers of warmth, sweetness, and umami to slowly emerge.

Outside Japan, sake was often introduced through chilled, aromatic styles that began gaining popularity in the late 1990s. But historically in Japan and increasingly today among international sommeliers, temperature is understood as a key part of sake service, offering a way to draw out its character with greater nuance.

“Warm sake can speak to the very heart and soul of Japanese sake,” says Michael Tremblay, a sommelier honored with the title of Sake Samurai. “Warming sake can genuinely transform its personality, enhancing not only umami but also the perception of acidity and sweetness.”

The key is to understand which styles respond best to which temperatures. Aromatic ginjo-grade sakes shine when served cool, with their fragrance and freshness remaining clear. By contrast, mellower futsushu, as well as more robust styles, including junmai and honjozo, and seasonal releases like hiyaoroshi gain fullness and richness from gentle heating.

Traditionally released in autumn after maturing through the summer, hiyaoroshi develops a depth that unfolds across a range of temperatures.

同一壶清酒,因温度不同,便能展现截然不同的风貌。冰镇时,它 清爽利落、口感紧致;温热时,它则舒展开来,让隐藏的温暖、甜 味和鲜味逐渐浮升。

在日本以外的地区,清酒往往以冰镇、香气馥郁的风格为人所知, 这种风格自上世纪九十年代末开始渐受欢迎。然而,从日本的历史传 统来看,以及如今在国际侍酒师之间,温酒也逐渐被视为奉酒之道 的关键环节 它是一把引出清酒个性的细腻钥匙。

At the table, this versatility becomes even more expressive. Tremblay likes to demonstrate sake’s range by serving the same bottle at varied temperatures across a meal. “A delicate sea bream carpaccio paired with a chilled pour is followed by a warm version alongside rich black cod or pork belly,” he says. “The contrast tends to stop guests in their tracks.”

Sake leaves room for curiosity and exploration. Served at a different temperature, paired with another dish, or enjoyed at a later moment in the season, the same bottle may reveal yet another side of itself.

「温热的清酒,能够触动日本清酒的灵魂与核心。」 被授予「酒武士」荣誉的侍酒师 Michael Tremblay 说道。

「加温能改变清酒的个性,不仅提升鲜味,也增强对酸度 与甜度的感知。」

关键在于了解哪些风格的清酒适合哪些温度。香气 奔放的吟酿级清酒,适合冰镇饮用,让其芬芳与清爽感 得以清晰展现。相比之下,更为醇厚的普通酒,以及纯米酒、本酿 造酒等风格扎实的品类,还有秋季限定的「冷卸」酒,则在微温之下, 释放出更加饱满、更加丰润的口感。「冷卸」酒经夏季熟成,并于秋 季上市,其积累的深度能在不同温度下徐徐展开。

这种多变的特质在餐桌上更显动人。Michael 喜欢在一顿饭中, 以不同温度侍饮同一瓶清酒,以呈现清酒的丰富面貌。他说:「先是 冰镇的清酒搭配细腻的鲷鱼生鱼片,随后是温热的版本,搭配浓郁 的黑鳕鱼或五花肉。这种对比,往往会让宾客大为惊艳。」

清酒,为好奇与探索留有余地。同一壶酒,变换温度侍饮,搭 配另一道菜肴,或在不同的季节享用,或许又会向你展现它的另一 种风貌。

pond and tower

A fifteen-minute bullet train ride separates two Four Seasons properties – and two philosophies.

AT FOUR SEASONS HOTEL KYOTO, Emba Kyoto Grill’s Josper ovens run at 300˚C. Chef de Cuisine Marco Fregnan adjusts the damper, watching cherrywood smoke kiss the day’s first Tokushima Wagyu. Through the window, light catches Shakusui-en, the same garden pond mentioned eight hundred years ago in The Tale of the Heike

Fregnan’s fire-grilling technique builds layers of flavor through a precise balance of high-heat searing and slower, controlled cooking. “The focus is on enhancing rather than overshadowing the inherent flavors of our ingredients,” he says. “The majority are sourced from trusted local partners.”

The name EMBA encodes the philosophy: 宴 (banquet), 炎 (flame), 缘 (connection). Fresh, local produce takes center stage, with techniques like charring and pickling unlocking fresh dimensions of taste and texture. Fregnan’s traditional seasonings, perfected in top Italian kitchens, merge with modern methods like pre-curing and deglazing to deliver bold, distinctive dishes.

The EMBA Signature Wagyu Burger: premium aged cheddar, Yamazaki whisky glaze, homemade onion jam, wasabi mayonnaise. The serious money goes to the Tokushima Awa

Raymond Wong Wai Man, Executive Chinese Chef of Four Seasons Hotel Osaka 大阪四季酒店中餐行政总厨

Kuroushi Tomahawk – 2.5 kilograms, dry-aged thirty days – or the Aichi Chita T-bone.

Steps away, Sushi Ginza Onodera opened in October. Chef Takuya Kubo has returned from New York after five consecutive Michelin-starred years. The seasonal omakase progresses through a series of nigiri – seasonal white fish, zuke-maguro, prawn, toro, sea urchin – and ends with Edomae tamagoyaki and matcha blancmange.

Everything at Four Seasons Kyoto orients toward the pond. The garden survived the centuries, as documented in the 1930s by Mirei Shigemori, whose surveys enabled its restoration. Now it anchors a hotel where preservation becomes philosophy.

A fast train hop away, Four Seasons Hotel

在京都四季酒店的餐厅 EMBA Kyoto Grill,Josper 炙焰烤炉的温度恒 定在 300 摄氏度。主厨 Marco Fregnan 轻调风门,凝视着樱桃木的 烟缕轻抚当日的第一批德岛和牛。透过窗棂,光影洒落在积翠园 八百年前,《平家物语》中便已提及这片水池庭园。

Marco 的火烤技艺,在高温锁汁与慢火控温之间取得精准平衡, 层层叠加风味。他说:「我们的理念是提升食材本身的味道,而不是 掩盖它。绝大多数食材都來自值得信赖的本地合作伙伴。」

餐厅 EMBA 之名,蕴含三层哲思:宴(盛宴)、炎(火焰)、缘(联 结)。新鲜的本地食材是绝对的主角,通过炭烧、腌渍等技法,释放 出风味与口感的全新维度。Marco 将在顶级意大利厨房磨练出的传 统调味,与预腌、收汁等现代手法融合,创造出大胆而独特的菜肴。

EMBA 的特色和牛汉堡精选高品质熟成切达奶酪、山崎威士忌 酱、自制洋葱酱、芥末蛋黄酱。而真正奢华之选,当属重达 2.5 公斤、 干式熟成三十日的德岛阿波黑毛和牛战斧牛排,或者爱知知多 T 骨 牛排。

几步之遥,Sushi Ginza Onodera 餐厅于十月开业。主厨 Takuya

The fifteen minutes between Kyoto and Osaka is long enough to shift from pond to tower, from heritage to innovation.

穿梭京都与大阪之间 仅需十五分钟,足以

让人从古池庭园迈向 摩天高楼,从历史传 承步入创新前沿。

Osaka anchors itself to altitude. Thirty-seven floors up, Bar Bota’s circular counter commands views in every direction. On the same floor, Jiang Nan Chun serves Cantonese classics.The headline remains Sushi L’Abysse Osaka Yannick Alléno, where the French virtuoso – now with fifteen Michelin stars – has joined with Edomae master Yasuda Itaru to create the extraordinary: lettuce ravioli with almond cream, Wagyu tartare with ponzu jelly, land-and-sea consommé bridging French and Japanese traditions.

The fifteen minutes between Kyoto and Osaka is long enough to shift from pond to tower, from heritage to innovation, from watching seasons change across ancient water to watching a city raise itself against the horizon.

Kubo 在纽约连续五年摘得米其林星级荣耀后归来。季节「厨师发办」 套餐包括一系列寿司 时令白鱼、渍金枪鱼、鲜虾、金枪鱼大腹、海胆, 并以江户前玉子烧与抹茶奶冻收尾。 京都四季酒店的一切,皆以水池庭园为中心。这座庭园历经八世 纪沧桑,由园林大师重森三玲在 20 世纪 30 年代勘测得以修复。如今, 它成为酒店的灵魂所在,让守护与传承升华为哲学。

新干线十五分钟的距离之外,大阪四季酒店则以高度为标志。

三十七层高空之上,Bota 酒吧的圆形吧台尽览四方。在同一楼层,江 南春则奉上经典粤菜。

而最引人注目的当属这家餐厅 Sushi L’Abysse Osaka Yannick Alléno。这位拥有十五颗米其林星的法国厨匠,携手江户前寿司大师 Itaru Yasuda 共同打造非凡体验:杏仁奶油生菜馄饨、柚子冻和牛塔塔、 融合法日传统的海陆清汤。

穿梭京都与大阪之间仅需十五分钟,足以让人从古池庭园迈向摩 天高楼,从历史传承步入创新前沿,从凝视古老水域的季节更迭,到眺 望城市在天际线上不断生长。

文化宿泊

escape to serenity

Hoshino Resorts KAI Akiu brings guests the Sendai region’s cultural riches amid the idyllic natural beauty of the Natori River valley.

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Guests can relax at Hotel KAI Akiu’s open-air foot bath while taking in the natural beauty of Sendai.

界秋保酒店设有露天足浴池, 住客可以一边泡脚,一边观赏仙台自然风光。

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Each guest room features expansive windows framing poetic mountain vistas of Rairaikyo Gorge.

酒店房间皆设宽敞景观窗,可欣赏充满诗意的磊磊峡山色。

WHEN CHOOSING A PLACE TO STAY, today’s travelers are looking beyond a comfortable bed and a generous breakfast to those special resort hotels that also offer satisfying sources of inner nourishment.

It might be waking up to misty mountain views outside their windows or luxuriating in ancient hot springs favored by scholars and artists of old or experiencing the elegance of bygone eras at a traditional banquet.

Hoshino Resorts surpasses expectations by expertly curating the cultural treasures of Japan’s Sendai region and bringing them to life at KAI Akiu. The tranquil ambience that permeates the hotel from lobby to guest rooms is due to the careful work of Kooo Architects, which drew inspiration from the essence of KAI Akiu’s predecessor hotel and reinterpreted it with understated contemporary design.

一张舒适的床、一顿丰盛的早餐,也许早不足 以成为旅人选择下榻之处的基本条件,因为如 今越来越多旅人寻求心灵的养分。

这种心灵滋养可以是清晨拉帘,与窗外山 水晨雾一同苏醒;可以是浸泡于历代文人雅士 喜爱的温泉古汤里;可以是参加传统餐宴、学 习礼法,亲触古时的庄重与风雅。

Nature is gracefully invited indoors through guest-room picture windows that frame the mountain scenery like an ever-changing work of art. Each morning, guests arise to the unveiling of a new living landscape scroll.

Perhaps most delightful among the resort’s many amenities are the warming waters drawn from two sources of the renowned Akiu Onsen hot spring, whose history spans fourteen hundred years. These waters, of the colorless, odorless sodium-calcium chloride type, are known for exceptional heat retention and moisturizing effects.

Following local custom, guests may choose to visit the open-air

日本星野集团深谙此理,于 是悉心搜集四散于仙台的文化碎 片,并于界秋保酒店中重现。酒店 从前堂到客房的氛围都散发着宁静安详,由小 大建筑设计事务所精心筑构,从酒店前身的气 质中汲取养分,加以洗练的当代设计语言重新 演绎。

大自然亦被温柔地邀进室内。每间客房都 以四季山色为画、深邃的青蓝调作框,让人期 待每天清晨起床,摊开这张精心裱褙的流动山 水画轴。

在众多酒店体验之中,最令人心往神驰的, 莫过于温泉。酒店引入的两道源泉来自秋保温 泉 拥有一千四百年历史的奥州名汤。此泉 属于氯化钠钙泉,以无色、无味为特点,保暖、 滋润效果尤佳。

The “KAI Cultural Discovery” experience offers a tasting of Sendai's finest regional sakes.

参与「当地 乐」环节,品 饮仙台地酒。

Meticulously crafted kaiseki cuisine is presented with artistry and care.

精心设计的 会席料理。

In the comfort of a guest room, a quiet moment with a book and a cup of tea becomes a soul-nourishing retreat.

留在舒适的酒店房间,读一本 书、喝一杯茶,已能滋养心灵。

bath in the large communal area after dinner. Enveloped by the flowing waters, lulled by their gentle murmur, breathing in the therapeutic steam, guests carry out an age-old ritual of physical and mental purification in the embrace of mountain shadows.

It is said that Date Masamune, the famed Sengoku-period general and first daimyo of Sendai, repeatedly visited the spring to heal the weariness of years of battle. Sendai’s unique history and culture are deeply intertwined with this brilliant military leader, a cultured man who dedicated himself to revitalizing the traditions of the Tohoku region. In the city he governed, he promoted such refinements as the tea ceremony and the drama-dance form known as Noh, along with fine craftsmanship and culinary artistry. The “Date culture” that he defined harmonizes the spirit of the samurai with the sensibilities of the poet. Over four centuries, it has subtly woven itself into the fabric of contemporary Sendai life.

不妨像当地人般,于晚饭后到访大浴场 的露天风吕,任泉流包覆全身,呼吸氤氲,耳 听潺潺流水,在山影的环抱中完成一场洗涤 身心的仪式。

相传日本战国时代名将、仙台初代藩主 伊达政宗生前曾多次造访此泉,疗愈连年征战 的疲惫。仙台的独特历史与文化,确实与伊达 政宗紧密相系。身为将领的他极具文化素养, 矢志振兴日本东北地区的传统文化,遂于自 己管治的都城推广茶道、能乐(日本传统表 演艺术)等雅事,更积极颂扬手工艺及饮食 风尚。这份由他定调的「伊达文化」,兼容武 家精神与艺术审美,历经四百年的潜移默化, 深入当代仙台人的生活肌理。

LUXURY

During KAI Akiu’s free “KAI Cultural Discovery” session, guests wear a jinbaori samurai campaign jacket to simulate participation in a victory banquet of the era as they savor local sake and learn traditional samurai etiquette. The story of the region’s terroir is told through the exceptional kaiseki cuisine of Chef Shunichi Kajikawa. Highlighting the natural flavors of Sendai’s abundant seasonal ingredients, including edamame, beef tongue, and taro, he presents them in creative diversity. For example, he slow-cooks thick cuts of beef tongue in red wine for serving with sake and also thinly slices it to complement the delicate flavors of sukiyaki.

Guests who take time to visit the hotel’s recommendations of such local attractions as historic Hoyo Sake Brewery and scenic spots like nearby Rairaikyo Gorge, Akiu Otaki Falls, and Akiu Shrine will come away from KAI Akiu with a deep sense of renewal as well as a lasting collection of Sendai memories.

在酒店的「当地乐」环节,游人可以穿上 阵羽织,模拟参加当时的胜利宴会,一边品饮 仙台本地清酒,一边学习传统武士礼法。至于 由主厨梶川俊一设计的会席料理,则以仙台盛 产的时令食材,如枝豆、牛舌、里芋等,诉说 仙台的风土故事。主厨擅长发挥食材原味,以 及把同一食材多元演绎。以牛舌为例,他会厚 切以红酒炖煮,也会薄切轻涮为寿喜烧,前者 酥嫩好佐酒,后者风味细致。

若然意犹未尽,可以遵从酒店接待员建 议,拜访酒店附近的景点,包括当地古老的凤 阳酒造,以及名胜如秋保大瀑布、秋保神社等, 让游人不仅身心焕然一新,更能带走仙台这本 丰富生动的立体史书的恒久回忆。

雪融成酿

from snow to sake

Japan’s mountainous Yamanashi Prefecture has long supplied the pristine water essential in creating some of the country’s finest sakes.

WATER, WHICH ACCOUNTS for fully 80 percent of sake’s composition, is – even more so than rice and its fermentation products – the single most decisive factor in shaping the beverage’s flavor and quality. And Yamanashi Prefecture, near the geographic heart of Japan, is a realm of exceptional waters, a fabled terroir where some of Japan’s most distinguished sakes were destined to be born.

Yamanashi is embraced by a constellation of illustrious peaks, including, foremost among them, Mount Fuji, as well as the Japanese Southern Alps and the Yatsugatake Mountains, whose elevations of two thousand to three thousand meters cloak nearly 80 percent of the prefecture’s land area.

水占了清酒成分的百分之八十,比起米及其发 酵产物,水更是塑造清酒风味与品质的最具 决定性的因素。而位于日本地理中心附近的 山梨县,拥有得天独厚的水源 这片传奇 的风土孕育出日本最负盛名的清酒。

山梨县被群峰环抱,其中最 受人瞩目的便是富士山,此外还 有日本南阿尔卑斯山与八岳山脉。 这些海拔两至三千米的高峰,覆 盖了县内近百分之八十的土地面积。

Snowmelt from high in the mountains descends slowly through strata of granite, basalt, and other ancient rock formations that serve as nature’s own filtration system. Subtly infused with trace minerals along its subterranean passage, it is transformed over the course of two decades into pristine groundwater. The abundance and

来自高山的融雪,缓慢地渗透如同大自 然过滤系统的花岗岩、玄武岩及其他古老岩 层。雪水在地下流动的过程中,吸收了微量矿 物质,历经二十年的时光,转化为纯净的地下 水。这项资源不仅丰沛,且品质纯净。因此, 日本近百分之四十的矿泉水便产自此地。

extraordinary purity of this resource are such that nearly 40 percent of Japan’s mineral water production originates here.

In the art of sake brewing, while rice and other raw ingredients may be procured from afar, water must be drawn locally. Across cultures and centuries, it has remained the immutable rule that regions blessed with superior water have given rise to flourishing traditions of fermentation. In these places, breweries, more than mere producers, have stood as pillars of their communities by driving employment and economic activity, shaping political and cultural life, and sustaining systems of belief. Even today, they remain vital custodians of culinary heritage and catalysts for tourism. Many breweries with histories spanning centuries have now passed into the care of new generations. Guided by younger leadership, they seek to harmonize tradition with innovation, ushering in a new era for sake. In this spirit, we turn to two of Yamanashi’s most highly storied and contrasting producers, Sasaichi and Shichiken, to survey both their history and their craft.

在清酒酿造的工艺中,大米与其他原 料可以从远方采购,但水必须取自当地。 纵观各文化、跨越世纪,这条不变的法则 从未改变:拥有优越水质的地区,总能孕 育出繁荣的发酵传统。在这些地方,酿酒 厂不仅仅是生产者,它们更透过带动就业 与经济活动、塑造政治与文化生活,以及 维系信仰体系,成为社区的重要支柱。直 至今日,它们依然是饮食遗产的重要守护 者与旅游业的推动者。

许多拥有数百年历史的酒造,如今已 交到新一代手中。在年轻一代的引领下,他 们致力于调和传统与创新,为清酒开启新纪 元。秉持这样的精神,我们将目光投向山梨 县两家最具传奇色彩且风格迥异的酒造 笹一与七贤,一同探究它们的历史与工艺。

FOR THE JAPANESE, reverence for Mount Fuji is etched deep within the nation’s cultural psyche. Japan’s highest peak, it endures as an object of spiritual devotion. Fuji’s eruptions long thundered across the land, inspiring both dread and veneration. Shrines were erected and prayers intoned in hopes of appeasing divine wrath. Ever since its last outburst, the mountain has lain in repose.

No other brewery is as intimately entwined with Fuji’s spiritual and natural legacy as Sasaichi, located in Ōtsuki, a gateway town that flourished in the Edo period and through which pilgrims journeyed toward Fuji. As the mountain’s volcanic activity subsided, the ancient Kitaguchi Hongu Fuji Sengen Shrine assumed a new role as a place where visitors ritually purified body and spirit before embarking on the ascent.

Since its founding in 1661, Sasaichi has brewed omiki, sacred sake offered to the shrine, using groundwater drawn from Fuji’s slopes. Today, Rei Amano, the fifth-generation descendant of the brewery’s first head, spearheads “GI Yamanashi,” an initiative to elevate global recognition of sake crafted exclusively from the prefecture’s six certified water systems.

Drawing upon the Mt. Fuji/Misaka Water System, Sasaichi

对日本人而言,对富士山的崇敬深深铭刻于国 家的文化底蕴中。作为日本最高峰,它始终是 精神信仰的象征。富士山的喷发曾在大地上久 久回响,令人既畏且敬。人们修建神社、吟诵 祈祷,以求平息神怒。自上一次爆发后,这座 山便处于静谧的安眠之中。

没有任何一家酿酒厂像位于大月市的笹 一一样,与富士山的精神与自然遗产如此紧密 相连。大月市是江户时代繁荣兴旺的门户城镇, 朝圣者会途经此地前往富士山。随着富士山的 火山活动逐渐平息,北口本宫富士浅间神社转 而成为朝圣者在登山前净化身心的地方。

自 1661 年创立以来,笹一便一直取用富 士山麓的地下水,酿造供奉给神社的「御神酒」。 如今,笹一第五代传人天野怜正带头推动「GI Yamanashi」倡议,旨在提升全球对仅使用县 内六大认证水源系统酿造之清酒的认识。

笹一使用「富士山 / 御坂水系」地下水,

SASAICHI | 笹一酒造

Sacred sake infused with devotion to Fuji

注入富士虔诚信仰的神圣清酒

meticulously crafts its principal product, Dan. “This flagship label is brewed in pursuit of the ultimate sake for the table,” says Amano. Dan’s exquisite equilibrium is achieved through a delicate, refined interplay of sweetness and acidity underpinned by depth and richness. The result lends itself to pairings that enhance the nuanced flavors and textures composed by leading chefs.

Dan’s ultra-soft brewing water is formed over decades of natural filtration as snowmelt from Mount Fuji flows through volcanic strata, emerging with crystal clarity and minimal mineral content. In former times, it was designated as gosen-sui, water reserved for the Emperor’s personal use.

The brewery’s exacting traditional yamahai process relies on naturally occurring lactic acid bacteria, yielding a sake of pronounced acidity and multilayered umami. The consummate skill of the master brewer is brought to bear in harmonizing such depth with the finesse expected of an ultra-premium daiginjo

Savoring Dan alongside exceptional cuisine not only enhances the pleasures of the table but also evokes Fuji’s qualities of purity, beauty, quiet majesty, and enduring strength.

精心酿造其主要酒款「旦」。天野怜表示:「这 款旗舰之作是为了追求极致的佐餐清酒而酿 造。」旦的特色在于其绝妙平衡,以深厚与 醇美为基础,并交织着细腻而精致的甜味与 酸度,能提升顶尖主厨所创作之精致风味与 口感。

旦的酿造用水属于超软水,是富士山 融雪流经火山岩层,历经数十年自然过滤 而形成,极为清澈,几乎不含矿物质。在 古代,它被指定为「御前水」,即专供天皇 使用的水。

酒造遵循传统的「山卸废止」技法,依 赖天然乳酸菌,酿造出的清酒具有鲜明的酸 度与多层次的鲜味。卓越的技艺在于将这份 深邃与顶级大吟酿所期望的优雅完美调和。 一同品味旦与珍馐佳肴,不仅提升了用 餐的愉悦,也令人联想起富士山的纯净、壮 美、静谧与持久的力量。

SHICHIKEN | 七贤酒造

Sparkling vision for the future

展望未来的日本气泡酒

MT. KAIKOMA-GATAKE, the highest peak of Yamanashi’s Southern Alps, has long been held sacred. In ancient times, it drew ascetic practitioners of Shugendō, and it is still venerated as a living sanctuary. At its foot flows the Ojiragawa River, a source of water renowned the world over. The path to it leads through the grounds of Kaikoma-gatake Shrine, gateway to the mountain.

Passing through the shrine and along the rocky banks of the Ojiragawa is Tsushima Kitahara, the thirteenth-generation head of Yamanashi Meijo Co. Ltd., known for its celebrated Shichiken sake. “As a child,” he says, “I was drawn to the beauty of this place. This water source inspired my ancestor to establish the brewery, and it remains an irreplaceable presence in my life.”

Captivated by the qualities of the water, his ancestor Ihei Kitahara founded Shichiken in 1750. In those days, breweries played a profound social role in the rice-farming community. The Kitahara family established a bank, provided employment during the offseason, and sustained the heritage of sake brewing. Emperor Meiji honored the family by choosing its residence as his lodging during a visit to Yamanashi in 1880. It was eventually designated a cultural asset, and today visitors view a remarkable collection of artifacts from the Meiji era, a time when Japan emerged from centuries of isolation and opened to the wider world.

Today, Tsushima Kitahara has undertaken sweeping reforms at the brewery. The traditional tōji brewing method, reliant on individual mastery, has been replaced with advanced, precision-controlled systems that eliminate variability and ensure consistently exceptional quality.

The brewery has also deepened its commitment to terroir and to revitalizing local agriculture and creating employment. Reinforcing the intimate bonds between land, water, and craft, it has ventured into rice cultivation to secure a stable supply of premium Yamanashi-grown sake rice.

“My guiding principles,” says Kitahara,

Kosaburō Kitahara, the 10th generation brewery owner 第十代酿酒匠人 北原库三郎

“are inheritance and innovation,” a philosophy shared by legendary chef Alain Ducasse. Through their mutual commitment to regional identity, sustainability, and the global dissemination of French gastronomy and Japanese sake, a collaborative sparkling sake was born.

甲斐驹之岳是日本山梨县南部阿尔卑斯山脉的 最高峰,一直便被视为圣山。自远古时代起,修 验道的苦行僧们便在此进行修炼;至今,它仍 被奉为活着的圣地。甲斐驹之岳的山脚流淌着 世界闻名的水源 尾白川。通往水源的小径 穿过甲斐驹之岳神社,那是前往圣山的大门。

以著名清酒「七贤」而为人所知的山梨名 醸株式会社第十三代社长北原对马穿过神社, 沿着尾白川布的河岸前行。他表示:「小时候, 我被这里的美景吸引。正是这个水源启发了我 的祖先建立酒造,至今仍是我生命中无可取代 的存在。」

他的祖先北原伊兵卫被水质所折服,于 1750 年创立了七贤。在那个时代,酿酒厂在稻 农社区中的影响深远。北原家族也成立了一家 银行,在农闲时期提供就业机会,并延续了清 酒酿造的文化传统。1880 年,明治天皇造访山 梨县时,选择了北原宅邸作为临时御所。该宅 邸后来被指定为文化遗产。访客可在此一睹明 治时代的珍贵文物,那是日本结束数世百年锁 国,走向世界的转折年代。

如今,北原对马对酒造进行了全面的改革。 依赖个人技艺的传统「杜氏」酿造已被精密可 控的先进系统取代,以确保品质始终如一。

七贤酒造亦加深了对风土的承诺,致力振 兴地方农业与创造就业。为了强化土地、水与工 艺之间的紧密联系,七贤进军水稻种植领域,以 确保山梨县产的优质清酒酿造用米能稳定供应。 北原说:「我的信条是继承与创新。」这个 理念与传奇主厨 Alain Ducasse 不谋而合。基于 对地域特色、可持续发展,以及向全球推广法 国美食与日本清酒的共同信念,双方携手打造 了一款联名气泡清酒。

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“We have long employed traditional brewing techniques like kijōshu, which replaces water with sake to yield a rich, velvety sweetness,” notes Kitahara. “We also employ secondary fermentation in the bottle to create delicate effervescence and depth. For our collaboration with Alain Ducasse, we further age the sake in cherrywood casks, imparting subtle, complex notes of sweetness and bitterness.” The delicious result harmonizes seamlessly with Ducasse’s elevated cuisine.

In 2024, Shichiken and Ducasse Paris embarked on “Round the World,” a global tour spanning seven cities. The journey, through pairings with local ingredients from vegetables to seafood, illuminated the boundless potential of sake on the world stage. Says Kitahara, “We look to the Japanese artistic principle of shuhari to preserve tradition, to break from it, and to transcend it as we design the future of sake.”

北原介绍:「在七贤,我们长期采用如『贵 酿酒』等传统技法,即在酿造过程中以清酒代 替水,以产生柔滑甘甜的风味。我们也采用瓶 中二次发酵,以创造细腻的气泡与深度。在与 Alain Ducasse 的合作中,我们更将清酒置于日 本产的樱桃木桶中进一步陈年,赋予其细微的 甜味与苦味,增添复杂度。」这款气泡清酒与 Alain Ducasse 的高级料理搭配得完美和谐。

2024 年,七贤与 Alain Ducasse 的巴黎团 队展开了名为「环游世界」的全球巡回活动,涵 盖七座城市。透过与从蔬菜到海鲜等各种当地 食材与清酒的搭配,彰显清酒在世界舞台上的 无限潜力。北原指出:「我们秉持日本艺术中的 『守破离』之道,在设计清酒的未来时,既要守 护传统,又要打破传统,最终超越传统。」

Perched on the Giza Plateau, Khufu’s looks out over the pyramids, the only surviving wonder of the ancient world. Khufu’s

非凡热忱 见证殊荣

Cairo claims the crown as home to The Best Restaurant in the Middle East & North Africa 2026. mena’s

new flavors

CUISINES ACROSS THE MIDDLE EAST and North Africa – from Cairo to Dubai and Muscat to Marrakech – reflect millennia of extraordinary cultural exchange shaped by tradition, innovation, and a common culinary spirit defined by warm hospitality. The vast region continues to inspire diners, nowhere more so than at Middle East & North Africa’s (MENA’s) 50 Best Restaurants.

This year’s awards, marking their fifth edition, were held amid the stunning surroundings of Emirates Palace Mandarin Oriental, Abu Dhabi, where chefs, restaurateurs, critics, and sophisticated diners gathered to discover how Middle Eastern and North African cuisines continue to evolve and spark creativity.

The headline moment was the award of the title The Best Restaurant in the Middle East & North Africa 2026 to Khufu’s in Cairo. In a thrilling underscore of both the country’s ancient culture and its burgeoning dining reputation, the victory marked a milestone for North African cuisine as an Egyptian venue took the top spot for the first time.

Few dining destinations can boast as jaw-dropping a location as Khufu’s, namely, on the Giza plateau overlooking the majestic pyramids, the only remaining site among the seven ancient wonders of the world.

Expectations run high for Chef Mostafa Seif‘s menus to match the setting, and his contemporary interpretations of his homeland’s cooking do not disappoint. His New Egyptian Cuisine, combining local ingredients and historic recipes with modern techniques, stakes its claim as the region’s most compelling new culinary movement.

Beef Brisket with Muamar Rice from Khufu’s Khufu’s的牛腩配穆阿迈尔米饭

从开罗到迪拜,从马斯喀特到马拉喀什,中东与北非的 美食交融了数千年的文化 由传统、创新与共同的烹 饪精神,以及热情好客之道所塑造。这片广袤土地持续 启发食客,而「中东及北非 50 最佳餐厅」更将此灵感推 向极致。

Local and global guests are wowed by exemplary Egyptian hospitality and ancient storytelling that proudly reflects the country’s history of more than five thousand years. Signatures include a reimagined take on Egypt’s national dish, koshary. This seemingly simple combination of

本年度的颁奖典礼是评选榜单的第五 届,于阿布达比文华东方酒店举行。来自各 地的厨师、餐厅经营者、美食评论家与资深 食客齐聚一堂,共同见证中东及北非美食如何在演变中 迸发创意。

最瞩目的时刻是位于开罗的 Khufu’s 餐厅荣获 2026 年「中东及北非最佳餐厅」称号。这场胜利不仅彰显了埃 及深厚的文化底蕴,更突显了当地餐饮业的蓬勃声誉 标志着北非美食的里程碑:埃及餐厅首度登顶。

At Kinoya, Chef Neha Mishra channels her love for traditional Japanese ramen. 主厨 Neha Mishra 在 Kinoya 倾注了她对传统日本拉面的热爱。

rice, lentils, pasta, chickpeas, and tomato sauce is elevated with quail eggs and cherry tomatoes and finished with coriander and golden fried onions for textural contrast. Classic comfort food refined for the most discerning of palates.

Previously honored by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants with the Resy One To Watch Award 2025, Khufu’s has more than delivered on its initial promise. Responding to the acclaim, Chef Seif remarked, “Egypt is our home, the greatest country in the world. We’re just happy we’ve been able to get our cuisine out there. Thank you to 50 Best, to all the people who supported us, and to the team who helped us get there.”

Overall, MENA’s 50 Best Restaurants 2026, featuring winners from a total of fourteen cities ranging from Beirut to Doha, Riyadh to Amman, was emblematic of the region’s geographic and stylistic diversity.

The top tier of awards saw Dubai solidify its powerhouse dining reputation as Kinoya, reflecting Chef Neha Mishra’s love of traditional Japanese ramen, placed second, a remarkable rise given that she’d started out running a supper club from her home.

Taking third place – and enhancing the three-Michelin-star status it achieved last year – was Dubai’s progressive Indian restaurant Trèsind Studio, which just opened a branch in London’s Mayfair

很少餐厅能拥有 Khufu’s 餐厅般令人惊叹 的地理位置:它坐落于吉萨高原上,俯瞰世界 七大奇迹中唯一尚存的遗迹 金字塔。

主厨 Mostafa Seif 的菜单备受期待,人们 期望他的美食能与绝佳位置匹配。他对家乡菜 肴的现代诠释不负众望 他融合当地食材、 传统食谱与当代技法,开创了全新埃及菜系, 堪称该地区最引人注目的新兴美食潮流。

无论是本地还是国际食客,无不为埃及 人的热情好客与五千余年的历史故事所倾倒。

Khufu’s 的招牌菜之一是对国菜 Koshary 的创意 演绎。这道菜式由米饭、扁豆、意大利面、鹰 嘴豆与番茄酱组成,并缀以鹌鹑蛋与樱桃番茄, 撒上香菜与金黄炸洋葱,层次丰盈。经改造的 经典家常菜,足以征服最挑剔的味蕾。

Khufu’s 餐厅曾获「世界 50 最佳餐厅」2025 年度的「Resy 最值得关注奖」,如今更远超预期。

主厨 Mostafa 回应赞誉:「埃及是我们的家,是 世界上最伟大的国家。我们很开心将家乡美食 带给世界。感谢『世界 50 最佳餐厅』、所有支持 者,以及帮助我们走到今天的团队。」

2026 年「中东及北非 50 最佳餐厅」名单

的杏鲍菇面,

King Oyster Noodles, Black Fungus XO, Morel Shoyu from Trèsind Studio Trèsind Studio

Sara Aqel, the winner of MENA’s Best Female Chef Award 2026 2026年「中东及北非最佳女厨师奖」得主Sara Aqel

district with an immersive degustation menu. Ranked No. 4, after three consecutive years in top place, was Orfali Bros in Dubai, run by Syrian brothers Mohammad, Wassim, and Omar Orfali. Their new cozily compact spot in Dubai, Three Bros, also made the list at No. 29, suggesting greater things to come for the affably ambitious trio. Rounding out the top five was the winner of the Highest New Entry Award 2026, Beihouse in Beirut. Here Chef Tarek Alameddine showcases creative dishes and stylish design that reinforce Lebanon’s enduring influence as one of the world’s favorite food scenes.

This year’s Individual Awards also highlighted players and movements that are helping to steer the region’s culinary evolution.

Two in particular prompted standing ovations at the awards ceremony theater: Recognized as a champion of culinary ethics, Sara Aqel of Dara Dining by Sara Aqel in Amman won  MENA’s Best Female Chef Award 2026, and Salam Dakkak of Dubai’s Sufret Maryam and Bait Maryam received the SevenRooms Icon Award 2026. Chef Dakkak, who

汇聚了贝鲁特、多哈、利雅德、安曼等 十四座城市的获奖餐厅,充分展现地域 与风格的丰富多样。

在榜单前列,迪拜进一步提升其 美食重镇的地位。位居第二的 Kinoya 餐厅体现了主厨 Neha Mishra 对日式拉 面的热爱,她的美食生涯从在家经营私 房菜开始,成长历程令人赞叹。迪拜创 新印度餐厅 Trèsind Studio 位列第三, 巩固了去年摘得的米其林三星地位;该 餐厅近期于伦敦梅菲尔区开设分店,提 供沉浸式品尝菜单。

叙利亚兄弟 Mohammad, Wassim 与 Omar Orfali 经营的迪拜 Orfali Bros 餐厅,曾连续三年蝉联榜首,今年排 名第四。他们在迪拜新开的温馨小店 Three Bros 排名第 29 位,预示这三位 热情洋溢的兄弟未来可期。Beihouse 餐 厅荣获 2026 年度「最佳新上榜餐厅奖」, 排名第五。主厨 Tarek Alameddine 在 此展现创意菜肴与时尚设计,体现了黎 巴嫩作为世界美食胜地的持久影响力。

Salam Dakkak, the winner of the SevenRooms Icon Award 2026 「SevenRooms标志人物奖」得主 Salam Dakkak

In Jordan, Muna Haddad leads Baraka Destinations, a social enterprise with purpose and community at its heart, earning her the Champions of Change Award 2026.

Muna Haddad 是以使命与社区为核心的约旦社会企业 Baraka Destinations 的创始人,并因此荣获 2026 年「变革先锋奖」。

was born in Palestine and raised in Jordan, lived in the US and Saudi Arabia before moving to the UAE, where her comforting Levantine cuisine served in a home-like dining room never fails to delight diners.

The Champions of Change Award went to Muna Haddad, founder of Baraka Destinations, for her purpose-driven tourism and community-inspired hospitality initiatives in Jordan. La Grande Table Marocaine at Royal Mansour Marrakech won the Art of Hospitality Award 2026 for its famously warm Moroccan cordiality.

Helmed by rising star Lynn Hazim, Dubai’s Middle Child received the One To Watch Award 2026. And for achieving the highest environmental and social responsibility rating across the region, Farmers in Marrakech won the Sustainable Restaurant Award 2026.

Ultimately, the awards bolstered a growing conviction that Middle Eastern and North African cuisines are entering an exciting new phase, one that mixes tradition, experimentation, and broader geographic representation, shining a spotlight on a dining culture that is increasingly confident, diverse, and globally relevant.

今年的个人奖项亦表彰引领区域美食潮流的人物与力量。 其中两位得奖者获全场起立鼓掌:安曼 Dara Dining by Sara Aqel 餐厅的女主厨 Sara Aqel  ,因倡导烹饪伦理而获 2026 年 「中东及北非最佳女厨师奖」;在迪拜打造了两间餐厅 Sufret Maryam 与 Bait Maryam 的主厨兼创始人 Salam Dakkak,则 获颁 2026 年「SevenRooms 标志人物奖」。Salam 出生于巴勒 斯坦,长于约旦,曾居住于美国与沙特阿拉伯,后来移居阿联 酋。她在温馨如家的环境中,烹制令人愉悦的黎凡特家常菜式。 「变革先锋奖」颁给了 Baraka Destinations 的创始人 Muna Haddad,以表彰她在约旦推动的目标导向旅游与以 社区为本的酒店服务理念。马拉喀什皇家曼苏尔酒店的 La Grande Table Marocaine 餐厅,以热情好客的摩洛哥待客之道, 获得 2026 年度「待客艺术奖」。

由新星主厨 Lynn Hazim 掌舵、位于迪拜的 Middle Child 餐厅,荣获 2026 年「最值得关注奖」。而马拉喀什的 Farmers 餐厅则因在整个地区获得了最高的环保和社会责任评级,荣获 2026 年「可持续发展餐厅奖」。

最终,这些奖项印证了一个日益坚定的信念:中东和北 非美食正进入一个激动人心的新阶段。这一阶段融合了传统、 实验精神和更广泛的地域代表性,将聚光灯投向一个愈发自 信、多元且具有全球影响力的餐饮文化。

closing the distance

The German-Japanese pianist Alice Sara Ott has spent a decade bringing classical music to people who never thought it was for them.

ALICE SARA OTT is a Deutsche Grammophon artist with more than half a billion streams to her name, and one of the least conventional pianists of her generation. She performs barefoot, and she likes to set a famous work beside a forgotten one. She has just released the first recordings of piano works by the late Icelandic composer Jóhann Jóhannsson, and her album of nocturnes by John Field, a composer few concertgoers could previously name, was Apple Classical’s Album of the Year. She arrived in Hong Kong at the end of March after one of the best years of her career. The night before her recital at City Hall, she sat down at the Bösendorfer at Ocean Table for an interview and a salon performance, presented by Premiere Performances of Hong Kong in partnership with Tasting Kitchen (TK).

Alice Sara Ott 是德意志留声机公司(Deutsche Grammophon)的签约艺术家,在各大音乐平台 的累积播放次数已逾五亿,堪称同辈中最独树一 帜的钢琴家。她赤足演奏,喜爱将经典名作与被 人遗忘的曲目并陈。 她刚发行了已故冰岛作曲 家约翰 约翰森钢琴作品的首张录音, 而她录制的约翰 菲尔德夜曲专辑更 获选苹果古典音乐的「年度专辑」,这 位作曲家此前鲜少为听众所知。她在 自己职业生涯顶峰之后那一年的 3 月底来到了中 国香港。于香港大会堂举办独奏会的前一晚,她 来到 Ocean Table,在贝森朵夫钢琴旁参与了一 场由飞跃演奏香港(Premiere Performances)与 Tasting Kitchen(TK)协办的访谈与沙龙演出。

You’ve said your aim is to bring classical music to people who feel it isn’t for them. Where did that conviction come from?

I grew up inside a very traditional world, with so many rules and limitations, and most of them have nothing to do with what the music is actually for. Somewhere along the way a great many people were made to feel this art wasn’t meant for them – that you need the right background, or that you have to understand the codes before you’re allowed in. I’ve never accepted that. Music is there to be enjoyed, and I want as many people as possible to feel they’re allowed to enjoy it.

你曾说,你的目标是让那些认为古典音乐不适 合自己的人也能开始欣赏它。 这个信念从何而 来?

我在一个非常传统的环境中长大,那里有许 多规矩与限制,而大多数都与音乐的真正意义无 关。不知从何时起,许多人被灌输了一种观念: 这种艺术不属于他们 你必须具备相关背景知 识,或先了解其中规则,才有资格接触它。我从 不接受这种想法。音乐是用来享受的,我希望尽 可能让更多人知道自己拥有这个权利。

“Music is there to be enjoyed, and I want as many people as possible to feel they’re allowed to enjoy it.

音乐是用来享受的,我希望尽可能让 更多人知道自己拥有这个权利。”

On your recent records you keep returning to forgotten composers. When you say the word nocturne, everyone thinks of Chopin, but Field came first. Were you setting out to make a discovery?

It wasn’t planned. During the pandemic I wanted a playlist of nocturnes to match my mood, came across one of the very few recordings of Field’s, and realized I didn’t know any of them. That sensation, of hearing something for the very first time, almost never happens in classical music, where we grow up hearing the same pieces over and over. And this music felt strangely familiar, as if I’d heard it as a child. I got obsessed. But I never set out to find a forgotten composer. What I do hope is that his music finds its way into the standard repertoire, that schools and competitions take him up, so that one day he isn’t a rediscovery at all, just part of what everyone plays.

It became Apple Classical’s Album of the Year. How do people find him now?

Through streaming. If you walk into a shop and see Field next to Bach, you’ll reach for Bach, unless you’re a nerd. Buying an album is an active act; so is buying a ticket. Streaming lets people find this music on their own terms, often inside a playlist, without thinking about the composer. It tears down the walls. I wish I could tell John Field that one day people will forget him, but that later he’ll somehow have the Album of the Year.

There’s a counter-current, though. Vinyl is selling again, and people are returning to physical things. As an artist who reaches millions through streaming, what do you think about that?

When I signed with Deutsche Grammophon at nineteen, it was all about physical albums, and the way people listen has completely changed since. I love LPs, and I love that people are coming back to them. CDs, honestly, I find ugly: the jewel cases, the plastic. Unless you have a wonderful system at home the sound isn’t very good, and streaming actually sounds better. I wouldn’t mind if the CD didn’t survive the next decade or two. But a record you can hold in your hands is a different kind of pleasure, and I’m glad it’s returning.

你在近期的专辑中,经常「复兴」那些被遗忘的 作曲家。你说提到夜曲,人人都想到肖邦,但其 实约翰 · 菲尔德才是先驱。你是有意去「发现」 他吗?

这并非刻意安排的。疫情期间,我想找一份符 合自己心境的夜曲播放列表,偶然发现菲尔德少数 的录音之一,才意识到自己竟从未听过他的作品。 这种「初次听到」的感受,在古典音乐中几乎不曾 出现,因为我们从小听的都是同样的曲目。而他的 音乐却让我感到莫名的熟悉,仿佛儿时便听过似的。 我彻底爱上了它。但我并非刻意要去发掘一位被遗 忘的作曲家。我真心希望他的音乐能够进入标准曲 目,被学校与比赛接纳。总有一天,他不再需要被 重新发现,而是成为每个人演奏清单中的一部分。

这张专辑后来成为苹果古典音乐的「年度最佳专 辑」。如今人们如何找到他的音乐? 通过流媒体。如果你走进一间唱片行,看到 菲尔德与巴赫的作品并列,除非你是音乐爱好者, 否则你肯定会选择巴赫。 购买专辑是一种主动行 为,买票也是。流媒体让人们可以随心所欲地找到 音乐,通常是在某个播放列表中,甚至不必在意作 曲者是谁。它打破了界限。我真希望能告诉约翰 菲尔德,有一天人们会遗忘他,但之后他或许会以 某种方式成为「年度最佳专辑」。

不过,现在也有一股逆流而上的趋势:黑胶唱片 再度热销,人们重新回归实体唱片的怀抱。作为 一位通过流媒体触及数百万听众的艺术家,你对 此有何看法?

我十九岁与德意志留声机公司签约时,一切都 围绕着实体唱片,如今人们的聆听方式已经彻底改 变。我热爱黑胶唱片,也乐见它们回归。老实说, 我觉得 CD 很丑:那种塑料盒、那种材质。除非你 有一套很棒的音响系统,否则音质并不好,而流媒 体的音质其实更佳。如果 CD 在未来一二十年内消 失,我也不会介意。但一张能捧在手中的唱片,是 一种完全不同的乐趣,我很高兴它又回来了。

You often perform barefoot. Is there a reason behind it?

I have to disappoint you – there’s no mystical vibration coming from the piano that I’m trying to connect with. I just don’t believe in dress codes. My mother is Japanese, so I never wore shoes at home, and I feel comfortable without them. You should be comfortable when you listen to music.

You’ve said you control every detail of a program. What are you trying to do when you put one together?

It’s very different from how I originally learned to program music. For almost a decade now I’ve tried to be in charge of every detail. With each program I ask myself the same questions: What makes this music unique? What do I want to translate to the audience? How can I build it so that they find a natural way in, not only into the music, but into my understanding of it? For one project I worked with an architect who created a whole digital world that we projected on a screen behind me.

你经常赤脚演出。背后有什么原因吗? 恐怕要让你失望了 我并非想藉赤脚与 钢琴建立某种神秘的链接。我只是不相信所谓 的着装规范。我母亲是日本人,所以我在家从不 穿鞋,而且我觉得不穿鞋很自在。 听音乐的时候, 就应该感到舒适。

你说过会掌控节目的每一个细节。你在编排曲 目时会考虑什么? 这和我最初学习编排音乐的方式截然不同。

近十年来,我一直努力掌控每一个细节。每次编 排曲目时,我都会问自己同样的问题:是什么让 音乐如此独特?我想向听众传达什么?我该如何 建构,才能让他们自然而然地融入其中 不仅 融入音乐本身,也融入我对音乐的理解?我曾与 一位建筑师合作,他成功将一个完整的数字世 界投影到我身后的屏幕上。

LONG TABLE

If you could build the experience itself from scratch, the whole concert, what would it be?

The way I work now is already close to my ideal, but what I’d love to do next is a concert in augmented or virtual reality. I had a glimpse of what that could be when I saw Kagami – the word means mirror – an AR work my friend Todd Eckert made with Ryuichi Sakamoto in the year before he died. I put the goggles on in a warehouse in Pittsburgh, and a projection of Ryuichi appeared at a piano. You can see it isn’t real, of course, but after a few minutes my eyes adjusted, and I could walk around him and watch his fingers. At one point a tree grew out of the piano and turned into the universe. I caught myself crying at the end.

And now with AI music – does it worry you, where the recording world is heading?

We spend so much time in this field studying and protecting the past, which is a wonderful thing, but it can make us suspicious of anything new. Change is happening whether we want it or not, and I’d rather help shape it than pretend otherwise. There are dangers, of course. But in the end the only thing that separates us from AI is the human element. We shouldn’t compete to make a track that peaks in the algorithms; that’s a fight we’ll lose. What matters is artistic agency, being conscious of what you create. Human experience is something you can’t replace.

You have a German father and a Japanese mother, and Hong Kong is its own East-West mix. Do you feel a connection here?

Not really through my own background. I have a very ambiguous relationship with nationality. My whole life I’ve never quite felt that I belonged. I was born and raised in Munich and have never lived anywhere else, yet I’m asked almost every day where I’m “originally” from, and when I say Germany, people aren’t satisfied; they want some other origin. But there isn’t one. Munich is it. So I decided long ago that I don’t find my identity in nationality; that simply isn’t how I define it. It’s not what I look for when I travel, either. I look for a connection with people, and the ones I’ve met here are open and curious. The audiences are warm and devoted; I often ask them afterwards, on social media, what they felt, because I so rarely get to hear it.

And here, in a room like this, what do you hope happens tonight?

I’m a very aesthetic person, and I feel at home straight away in a beautiful, coherent space, and I love the intimacy here, that there’s hardly any distance to the first row. For me, it’s all about closing the gap between the audience, the stage, and the instrument. Music isn’t only something the performer makes; the audience is an active, essential part of it. We create and share this experience together.

如果你可以从零开始打造一场完整的音乐会,那 会是怎样的?

我现在的工作方式已十分接近我的理想,但 我最想尝试的是一场增强现实或虚拟实境音乐会。 当我看到《Kagami》(意思是「镜子」),仿佛看见了 那种可能。这是我朋友 Todd Eckert 与坂本龙一在 他去世前一年合作的增强现实作品。我在匹兹堡的 一座仓库里戴上 VR 眼镜,坂本龙一的投影出现在 钢琴前。当然,你能看出那不是真的,但几分钟后 眼睛便适应了,我可以绕着他走动,观察他的手指。 有一幕,一棵树从钢琴中长出,最终化作宇宙。到 最后,我忍不住哭了。

人工智能音乐的出现,会否令你担心音乐产业的 未来?

我们在这个领域投入大量时间研究和保护过 去,这固然美好,却也容易让我们对任何新事物保 持怀疑。无论我们是否愿意,改变都在发生。我宁 可参与塑造它,而不是假装它不存在。当然,其中 也有风险。但最终,唯一能区分我们与人工智能的 就是人性。我们不应为了创作出在算法中排名靠前 的作品而相互较劲 那是一场我们注定失败的 战争。重要的是艺术自主性,是对自己创作内容的 清醒认知。人类的体验是无可替代的。

你的父亲是德国人,母亲是日本人,而香港本身 就是东西方文化交融之地。你在这里有归属感 吗?

其实与我的背景关系不大。我对国籍的认同 感非常复杂。我一生中从未真正找到归属。我在慕 尼黑出生长大,从未在其他地方生活过。然而几乎 每天都有人问我「老家」在哪里。当我说是德国时, 人们并不满意,他们想知道我其他的出身。但其实 没有别的答案。慕尼黑就是我的家。所以我很久以 前便决定,我的身份认同不建立在国籍之上;那根 本不是我对自己的定义。这也不是我旅行时所追寻 的东西。我追寻的是人与人之间的连结,而在这里 遇到的每一个人都热情开放、充满好奇。观众全心 投入;演出结束后,我经常在社交媒体上询问他们 的感受,因为我很少有机会听见他们真实的想法。 今晚,在这样一个空间里,你希望发生什么?

我是一个非常注重美感的人,置身于美丽和 谐的空间,立刻会感到自在。我喜欢这里的亲密 感 离第一排观众几乎没有距离。对我而言,关 键在于拉近观众、舞台与乐器之间的距离。音乐不 仅仅是表演者所创造的,观众也是其中积极且不可 或缺的一部分。我们共同创造并分享这份体验。

音乐译者

the translator

The Persian-Austrian cellist Kian Soltani has built his art between two musical worlds – and on a 332-year-old instrument that, he says, can fall asleep and be woken.

KIAN SOLTANI is a Deutsche Grammophon artist and this season’s Portrait Artist at the Elbphilharmonie in Hamburg. He was born in Austria to Iranian parents, and grew up between two kinds of music: the Persian folk songs his family played for guests at home, and the European tradition he trained in. He plays the 1694 “London, ex-Boccherini” Stradivarius. The day before his recital debut at Hong Kong City Hall, he sat down at Ocean Table with the Korean pianist Jaehong Park for an interview and a private salon, presented by Premiere Performances of Hong Kong in partnership with Tasting Kitchen (TK). The program was distilled to two works: Reza Vali’s Persian Folk Songs and Rachmaninov’s Cello Sonata in G minor.

Kian Soltani 是德意志留声机公司的签约艺术 家,也是本乐季汉堡易北爱乐音乐厅的专场音乐 家。他出生于奥地利,父母是伊朗人,在两种音 乐交融的环境中成长:一种是家人在家中为客人 演奏的波斯民歌,另一种是他接受的欧洲传统 音乐专业训练。他使用的是一把 1694 年产的斯特拉迪瓦里大提琴,琴身刻 有「伦敦,前博凯里尼」(London, exBoccherini)字样。在香港大会堂举办 独奏音乐会的前一天,他与韩国钢琴家朴宰洪(Jae Hong Park)一同在 Ocean Table 进行了一次访谈 和私人沙龙。此次活动由飞跃演奏香港(Premiere Performances)与 Tasting Kitchen (TK) 联合呈献, 音乐会曲目精简至两首作品:雷扎 瓦利的《波斯 民歌》和拉赫玛尼诺夫的《G 小调大提琴奏鸣曲》。

You grew up surrounded by music – your father on bassoon, your mother a harpist. When you think back to your childhood, what’s the soundtrack of your youth? It was a mixture. When guests came, my parents and their friends would make music at home – mostly Persian folk music, with percussion and Persian instruments. They wouldn’t bring out the bassoon and harp for that; it wouldn’t have fit. But the other half of the soundtrack, oddly enough, was Franz Schubert. He was the first composer I ever seriously played, and one my parents loved. My mother played him on the harp, my father plays a little pan flute, and they even made a record together – some of it was Schubert.

你从小就生活在音乐的氛围中 你的父亲 是巴松管演奏家,母亲是竖琴演奏家。回想你 的童年,你青春的配乐是什么? 那是很丰富的。有客人来的时候,我的父母 和他们的朋友会在家里演奏音乐 大多是波斯 民歌,用打击乐器和波斯乐器演奏。他们不会拿 出巴松管和竖琴来演奏;它们和那种氛围不搭。 但奇怪的是,我童年配乐的另一半却是弗朗茨 舒伯特的作品。他是我认真演奏的第一位作曲家, 也是我父母非常喜欢的作曲家。我母亲用竖琴演 奏他的作品,我父亲吹奏排箫,他们甚至还一起 录制过唱片 其中有一些是舒伯特的作品。

“When people are truly focused, I play better. They shouldn’t underestimate how much they give the musician.

当人们真正专注时,我也会演奏得更好。

他们不应该低估自己给予音乐家的感受。”

Tomorrow you open your City Hall recital with him – the Arpeggione Sonata. What is it about Schubert that you most appreciate?

He’s delicate, intimate, elegant – charming and modest, never pretentious. I want to bring that charming elegance of Vienna all the way to Hong Kong. There’s a word in German, gemütlich, that roughly means a calm, relaxed outlook on life – no hurry, no stress, take it easy. Schubert spent many years in Vienna, and I think the city is all over his music.

Today, though, you opened the salon with Reza Vali’s Persian Folk Songs, which he wrote for you. Vali notates the ornaments of Persian singing in great detail. How does that feel under the hands?

Completely different from classical music. Classical music doesn’t have many written ornaments; folk music lives on them, and Vali writes them down with real precision. The wonderful thing is that anybody can play the piece – you don’t have to be Persian, or know the tradition. It’s what Bartók did for Hungarian music: you don’t have to be Hungarian to play him now. Once music is written down, it becomes universal. I do also perform actual traditional Persian music with my father sometimes, alongside real masters from Iran – an oud player, a percussionist – and there I’m more of a mediator. I grew up in Europe, so I understand the European ear, but I have a foot in Persian culture as well. I want to be clear, though: I’m not a Persian-music expert. I’m a classical musician with Persian roots.

And you closed with the Rachmaninov. He titled it, very deliberately, “Sonata for Piano and Cello” – he meant the two instruments as equals.

Absolutely. In most cello sonatas the hierarchy is clear: the cello leads, the piano supports. But Rachmaninov wrote this one for himself, and very often it’s the piano that leads the drama, stating the themes first while the cello answers. So you have to be both a soloist and a chamber musician, and know at every moment which role you’re in – who’s asking the question, who’s answering. There are passages where the cello barely plays a melody at all, just two notes repeated in different registers, like a fragment, while the piano searches around it. And then a great melody arrives in the cello, and you don’t hold back. You give everything.

明天你将在香港大会堂举办独奏音乐会,开场 曲目是舒伯特的《琶音奏鸣曲》。你最欣赏舒伯 特的哪一点? 他的音乐细腻、亲切、优雅 既迷人又谦逊, 从不矫揉造作。我想把维也纳那种迷人的优雅带 到香港。德语里有个词叫「gemütlich」,大致意思 是平静、放松的生活态度 不慌不忙,不紧张, 悠闲自在。舒伯特在维也纳生活了很多年,我觉 得整座城市都弥漫在他的音乐之中。

不过,今天你在沙龙音乐会上演奏的是雷扎 瓦 利为你创作的《波斯民歌》。瓦利非常细致地记 录了波斯歌唱的装饰音。演奏起来感觉如何? 和古典音乐完全不同。古典音乐的装饰音很 少,而民歌的特色就在于此,瓦利把它们记录得 非常精准。最美妙的是任何人都可以演奏这首曲 子 你不必是波斯人,也不必了解传统。就像 巴托克对匈牙利音乐所做的贡献:如今,你不必 是匈牙利人也能演奏他的作品。一旦音乐被记录 下来,它就具有了世界通用性。我有时也会和父 亲一起演奏正统的波斯音乐,与来自伊朗的真正 大师 一位乌德琴演奏家、一位打击乐手 同台演出,在那里我更像是一个协调者。我在欧 洲长大,所以我了解欧洲人的音乐审美,但我也 有波斯文化的根基。不过,我想澄清一点:我不 是波斯音乐的专家。我是一位拥有波斯血统的古 典音乐家。

最后你演奏了拉赫玛尼诺夫的作品。他特意将 这首曲子命名为「钢琴与大提琴奏鸣曲」 他想表达的是这两种乐器地位平等。

完全正确。大多数大提琴奏鸣曲的层级分明: 大提琴主导,钢琴伴奏。但拉赫玛尼诺夫为自己 创作了这首奏鸣曲,其中钢琴往往引领着戏剧性 的走向,先提出主题,大提琴则回应。因此,演 奏者必须同时是独奏家及室内乐演奏家,并且时 刻清楚自己扮演的角色 谁在提问,谁在回应。

有些段落中,大提琴几乎没有演奏旋律,只是两 个音符在不同的音区重复,如同一个片段,而钢 琴则围绕着它进行探索。然后,大提琴奏出一段 优美的旋律,这时演奏者毫无保留,倾尽所有。

Your cello is 332 years old. You’ve said that after you began playing it intensively, it started to sound even better. How is that possible at that age?

People forget it wasn’t played the whole time. Some of these instruments sit in an attic for a hundred years, or get played only by amateurs – which is lovely, but not the same as a professional digging into it for hours every day. When I received it, around 2016, it hadn’t been played seriously for decades. Instruments go back to sleep if they aren’t challenged. It’s almost a living organism: When you start playing again with real intensity and ask it to resonate, it opens up. After a year or so, mine completely changed. It’s like an old car – if you don’t take it out for a drive once in a while, the motor dies.

Or a body.

Or a body, exactly. And it never stops changing. The bow matters, the strings matter, even the city – Hong Kong is humid, so it sounds different here than in Vienna. Every room is different, and from the rehearsal to the concert two hours later it changes again, because suddenly there are people in the hall and the humidity rises. You can never fully prepare for the moment. You have to listen and react – small adjustments, all the time.

You were principal cellist of Daniel Barenboim’s West-Eastern Divan Orchestra for seven summers. Where does that name come from?

It’s taken from a book of poems by Goethe – the Westöstlicher Divan. People assume “divan” means a couch, a seating arrangement, but that’s not what he meant. Goethe wrote those poems under the influence of the great poets of the Middle East, the Persian poets among them – Rumi, Hafez. So you have a German poet inspired by Persian poetry, and Barenboim takes that title for an orchestra that brings together musicians from countries in conflict with one another and puts them on the same stage. It was an extraordinary experience – on a human level, and musically too, working with Barenboim.

Before Barenboim there was Ivan Monighetti, with whom you studied for eleven years from the age of twelve –Rostropovich’s last pupil, two hours’ drive each way, every week. He had you play piano, recite poetry, sing, read, even compose. What was he teaching?

To be a complete musician, not just a technically impressive cellist. The singing was the worst – his assistant then was Sol Gabetta, herself one of the great cellists of our time, and I had to get down on one knee and sing a Mozart aria for her in front of the whole class. Traumatic. But I understand what he was doing: getting me out of my shell. His real lesson was that almost every important cello piece is for cello and piano, and you have to

你的大提琴已有 332 年的历史。你曾说过,在你 开始高度的演奏之后,它的音色变得更好了。这 怎么可能呢?

人们忘记了它并非一直都在被演奏。有些乐器 在阁楼里尘封百年,或者只有业余爱好者演奏 这固然美好,但与专业人士每天花几个小时钻研演 奏截然不同。我在 2016 年收到这把琴时,它已经 几十年没被认真演奏过了。乐器若不被「挑战」,便 会沉睡。它几乎像一个活的有机体:当你再次以真 正的热情演奏,并与它共鸣时,它便会焕发活力。

大约一年后,我的琴彻底改变了。它就像一辆老 车 如果你不偶尔开出去兜风,发动机就会报废。

或者说,像一个身体。

没错,就是一个身体。而且它永远在变化。弓 很重要,琴弦很重要,甚至城市也很重要 香港 很潮湿,所以它在这里的声音和在维也纳不一样。

每个房间都不一样,从排练到两个小时后的音乐会, 情况又会发生变化,因为突然间音乐厅里坐满了人, 湿度也升高了。你永远无法为那一刻做好万全准备。 你必须聆听并做出反应 不断地微调。

你曾连续七年担任丹尼尔 巴伦博伊姆的「西东合 集管弦乐团 」首席大提琴手。这个名字是怎么来 的?

它取自歌德的一本诗集 《西东合集》(Westöstlicher Divan)。人们通常认为「divan」指的是沙 发或座椅,但歌德的意思并非如此。歌德的诗歌深 受中东伟大诗人的影响,其中也包括波斯诗人鲁米、 哈菲兹。因此,一位德国诗人受到波斯诗歌的启发, 而巴伦博伊姆则运用这一理念组建了一支管弦乐团, 把来自彼此冲突国家的音乐家汇聚在一起,并将他 们置于同一舞台。与巴伦博伊姆共事是一次非凡的 经历 无论从人际层面还是音乐层面来说都是如 此。

在巴伦博伊姆之前,你从十二岁开始跟随伊万 莫 尼盖蒂学习了十一年,他是罗斯特罗波维奇的最 后一位学生。你每周要开两小时的车去上课,再 开两小时回来。他让你弹钢琴、朗诵诗歌、唱歌、 阅读,甚至作曲。他教的是什么? 成为一名全面的音乐家,而不仅仅是一位技术 精湛的大提琴家。唱歌是最糟糕的部分 当时他 的助手是索尔 加贝塔,她本人就是我们这个时代 最伟大的大提琴家之一,而我却不得不单膝跪地, 在全班同学面前为她演唱一首莫扎特的咏叹调。那 真是噩梦。但我明白他这么做的用意:让我走出舒 适圈。他真正教我的是,几乎所有重要的大提琴作 品都是大提琴与钢琴合奏,你必须理解其中的深层

understand what’s happening underneath. The cello part is only the tip of the iceberg – five, maybe ten percent. The other ninety is below the surface, and you have to know it so the tip makes sense. I taught in Vienna myself for a couple of years and tried to pass some of that on, though you can’t transmit all of it.

A salon like this – this close, no microphones – is a very different thing from the Elbphilharmonie. How does it change the way you play?

I love it. In a purist sense, this is the best way to experience classical music, and the cello was almost made for it. Centuries ago there were no steel strings – they’re loud – only gut strings and lighter bows, and none of it was about volume. It was about a beautiful sound. Playing in a big hall would have been almost unimaginable then. So a room like this goes back to the origins of what the music was for. On a big stage you have to become an opera singer: everything bigger, a little slower, so the sound reaches the last row. Here you don’t have to do anything except play in the most natural way you can. And the audience’s attention reaches me, too. When people are truly focused, I play better. They shouldn’t underestimate how much they give the musician.

When people step back out of Ocean Table this afternoon, what’s the one thing you’d want them to carry away?

I hope the evening paints a broad spectrum of sound. The Vali opens a completely different world, one no one here has heard before. And the Rachmaninov is a deep journey, with real highs and lows, that ends on an extremely optimistic, life-affirming note. I hope everyone goes home with a smile.

含义。大提琴部分只是冰山一角 大概只有百分 之五,也许百分之十。其余百分之九十都在水面之下, 你必须了解它,才能理解冰山一角的意义。我自己 也在维也纳教了几年书,并试图将其中的一些理念 传授给学生,尽管你无法传授全部。

像今天这样的沙龙 如此近距离,没有麦克 风 与易北爱乐音乐厅完全不同。这会如何 改变你的演奏方式?

我喜欢这种氛围。从纯粹的角度来看,这是体 验古典音乐的最佳方式,而大提琴几乎就是为此而 生的。几个世纪前,没有声音很大的钢弦,只有羊 肠弦和较轻的琴弓,而且当时的一切都与音量无关, 而是追求优美的音色。当时,在大型音乐厅演奏几 乎是不可想象的。所以,像这样的空间回归了音乐 的本源。在大舞台上,你必须像歌剧演员一样:一 切都要更大,速度要慢一些,这样才能让声音传到 最后一排。而在这里,你只需要以最自然的方式演 奏即可。观众的注意力也会传递给我。当人们真正 专注时,我也会演奏得更好。他们不应该低估自己 给予音乐家的感受。

今天下午观众离开 Ocean Table 时,你希望他们 带走的是什么?

我希望今晚的演出能展现出丰富多彩的声音。 瓦利的作品开启了一个不同的世界,一个在座各位从 未听过的世界。而拉赫玛尼诺夫的作品则是一次深 刻的旅程,跌宕起伏,最终以无比乐观、充满生命力 的结尾收束。我希望每个人都能带着微笑回家。

甜蜜之家

gnome sweet home

At Singapore’s Parkroyal Collection Marina Bay, a new tree house suite proves that family luxury can be both fantastical and firmly rooted in sustainability.

IN A CITY where stylish glass towers pierce the sky, Parkroyal Collection Marina Bay has conjured something that would make any design-conscious elf envious. The Gnome’s Treehouse Room transforms vertical space into narrative architecture, with elevated sleeping quarters wrapped in burnished wood and a sinuous slide that turns bedtime into adventure – an indoor playground in a fivestar hotel room.

The design team has threaded the needle between fantastical and sophisticated. Twinkling fairy lights and leafy murals transform floor-to-ceiling windows into portals to an enchanted forest that happens to overlook Singapore’s skyline. Mushroom-shaped cushions and gnome figurines populate cozy reading nooks, and a Nintendo Switch and curated board games ensure entertainment options for every temperament. Yet these playful touches never overwhelm the suite’s essential elegance – premium bedding anchors the parents’ quarters, and thoughtful scale separates family time from quiet moments.

在时尚摩天大楼林立的天际线中,新加坡滨 海湾宾乐雅臻选酒店所打造的「土地精灵树 屋客房」,足以令任何一位钟情于设计美学的 精灵为之倾心。这间套房巧妙转化垂直空间, 构筑出具故事性的建筑语言 高架卧室以 温润木材悉心包覆,蜿蜒滑梯将睡前时光化 为一场轻松冒险,宛若五星级客房中的室内 游乐园。

设计团队在奇幻与雅致之间,寻得完美 平衡。闪烁的彩灯与翠意盎然的壁画,使落 地窗幻化为通往魔法森林的入口,而窗外俯 瞰的正是新加坡迷人的城市天际线。蘑菇造 型靠垫与小矮人摆件点缀着静谧 的阅读角落;任天堂 Switch 与精 心挑选的桌游则确保每位宾客皆 能找到心之所好。尽管童趣洋溢, 这些细节却未曾掩盖套房的优雅本质 高 级寝具为父母寝区增添舒适,而悉心规划的 空间,亦巧妙区隔了阖家欢聚与静谧独处的 时光。

The mythology runs deeper than décor. These gnomes serve as “guardians of the environment,” a clever narrative device that transforms the hotel’s eco-initiatives into fun. Young guests receive personalized Gnome’s Land tote bags and plush companions before choosing two experiences from four orchestrated options: crafting terrarium milk puddings with Peppermint’s culinary team, hunting for hidden miniature gnomes throughout the property, creating art in the Collection Club lounge, or exploring the hotel’s rooftop urban farm, where herbs and vegetables grow for the restaurants below.

While children navigate their fantasyland, parents might slip away to the St. Gregory spa, confident that their young explorers are thoroughly engaged. The property’s four restaurants – including farm-to-table Peppermint set amid the hotel’s herb garden – and two bars ensure elevated dining nearby. Come evening, families reconvene to admire Marina Bay views from the balcony or wander the lobby’s breathtaking indoor atrium forest.

At Singapore’s first “Garden-in-a-Hotel,” The Gnome’s Treehouse Room succeeds because it takes young guests seriously while amply providing for parents as well. The package includes daily breakfast for four, specialized children’s amenities, and those essential extras that distinguish luxury. In an era when family travel often means choosing between adult pleasures and children’s delights, this whimsical sanctuary suggests another path entirely – one where imagination, sustainability, and five-star comfort coexist in perfect balance.

此处的童话,远不止于装饰。酒店将环 保理念转化为趣味盎然的体验,并由这群「土 地精灵」担任「环境守护者」。小宾客们将获 赠专属的土地精灵乐园主题手提袋与毛绒玩 偶,并可从四项精心策划的儿童主题活动中 任选其二:与 Peppermint 餐厅的烹饪团队 一同手工制作生态瓶牛奶布丁;地精趣味寻 宝;在 Collection Club 酒廊挥洒艺术创作; 或探索酒店屋顶的都市农场 那里种植着 香草与蔬菜,为楼下餐厅供应新鲜食材。 当孩子们沉浸于奇幻世界之际,父母亦 可安心前往「圣葛俪水疗中心」舒展身心,因 为他们知道小探险家们正乐在其中。酒店设 有四间餐厅,包括坐落于香草园中的「从农 场到餐桌」餐厅 Peppermint,以及两间酒吧, 确保宾客尽享高品质的餐饮飨宴。夜幕低垂 时,一家人可于阳台重聚,静赏滨海湾迷人 景致,或漫步于大堂内令人惊叹的室内中庭 森林。

作为新加坡首家「花园酒店」,土地精 灵树屋客房的成功之处在于它体贴小宾客的 每一份好奇,亦不忘呵护父母的从容时光。

住房专案包括四人早餐、儿童专属备品,以 及多项彰显奢华体验的贴心服务。在这个家 庭旅行往往需于成人享受与儿童欢乐之间 取舍的年代,这个充满奇思妙想的世外桃源 提供了一种截然不同的可能 在此,想像 力、可持续精神与五星级舒适体验得以完 美交融。

Four Seasons Hotel Kyoto

京都四季酒店

445-3, Myohoin Maekawa-Cho, Higashiyama-Ku, 605-0932 Kyoto, Japan q +81 75 541 8288

Four Seasons Hotel Osaka

大阪四季酒店

2-4-32 Dojima, Kita-Ku, 530-0003 Osaka, Japan q +81 6 6676 8682

Hoshino Resorts KAI Akiu

星野集团 界 秋保

1 Hirakura Yumoto, Akiu-machi, Taihaku-ku, Sendai, Miyagi 982-0241 q +81 50 3134 8092

Leela

5 Indian Shop 301-310, Lee Garden Three, 1 Sunning Road Causeway Bay, Hong Kong

香港铜锣湾新宁道1号利园三期3楼301-310 号铺

Lunch: Tue to Sun: 12:00-15:30 Dinner: 17:30-22:45 q +852 2882 5316

Lakeview Palace 永翠宫

5 Innovatiove Jiangnan Cuisine G/F, West Esplanade, Wynn Palace, Avenida da Nave Desportiva Cotai, Macau

澳门路氹体育馆大马路永利皇宫西名店街 地下

Lunch: 12:00-15:00

Dinner: 17:30-23:00 q +853 8889 3663

A Children aged 5 or above are welcome

La Terrace by Louise

5 French Shop JPC, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen Street, Central, Hong Kong

香港中环鸭巴甸街35号元创方JPC地铺

Lunch: Thurs and Fri: 12:00-14:00

Dinner: 18:00-23:00

q +852 5722 3269

Robuchon au Dôme 天巢法国餐厅

5 French

43/F, Grand Lisboa, Avenida de Lisboa, Macau

澳门葡京路新葡京酒店43楼

Lunch: 12:00-14:30

Dinner: 18:30-22:30

Closed on Tuesday and Wednesday

q +853 8803 7878

A Smart casual; Children aged 10 or above are welcome

RESTAURANT LISTINGS RESTAURANT LISTINGS RESTAURANT LISTINGS

SoNoMa by SingleThread 想乃间

5 California & Modern American Capella Kyoto,130 Komatsu-cho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto, Japan

Dinner: 18:00-21:00

Closed on Sunday and Monday q +81 75 541 8877

The St. Regis Bar 澳门瑞吉酒吧

5 Bar & Lounge

2/F, The St. Regis Macao, The Londoner Macao, Estrada do Istmo, s/n, Cotai, Macao

澳门路氹连贯公路澳门伦敦人澳门瑞吉酒

店二楼

12:00-01:00

q +853 8113 1300

A Smart casual

Ami

5 Contemporary French Shop 302, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Central, Hong Kong

香港中环遮打道18号

历山大厦3楼302号舖

Lunch: 12:00–14:30

Dinner: 18:30 until late q +853 8865 1366

Sushi Kissho by Miyakawa

鮨吉祥 宫川

5 Japanese

2/F, Raffles at Galaxy Macau, Estrada da Baia de Nossa

Senhora da Esperanca, s/n, Cotai, Macau

澳门路氹望德圣母湾大马路澳门银河莱佛

士二楼

Thu to Tue: 18:00–22:30

q +853 8883 2221

A Smart casual; Children aged 12 and older are welcome

DAVID HARTUNG

Sora unfolds in layers, rising above Phnom Penh while remaining deeply connected to the rhythms of the city.

The Sky Deck opens the experience, expansive, open-air, and dramatically poised at the edge of the skyline. From golden hour through late evening, it is shaped by light and breeze, where Japanese technique meets Cambodian ingredients through the signature Build & Sip cocktail menu.

Further within, the Whisky Library o ers a more intimate retreat, calm and re ned. Developed in collaboration with Nikka Whisky, the selection highlights exclusive labels and rare nds within the collection.

Welcome to the sky.

SUBSCRIBE

(TK)

CUBANACÁN

BEIJING: LLADRO雅致 北京国贸商城精品店

北京市朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸商场南区4层SL4009 +86(010) 65055018

HONG KONG: LLADRO雅緻 海港城精品店

香港九龍尖沙咀海港城海洋中心2樓260A號舖 +852 23218039

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