TK38 Circle of Time

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T A S T I N G 38

C I R C L E

COTAI

K I T C H E N O F

T I M E

Master of the Palace 再创粤菜殿堂

HONG KONG

Succeeding Successfully 一脉相承

MACAU

Excellence and Éclat 厨界传奇 续写辉煌

STARTER

Hutong’s Peking duck, uniquely infused with the aroma of fresh apples and pears before being roasted in a special gas-fired hanging oven, features crispy skin and tenderly moist meat and is served with homemade duck sauce and gossamer-thin pancakes. 「胡同」以独特的腌制技术，为北京烤鸭渍入新鲜苹果和梨的香气，再放进燃气挂炉烘烤， ​

DAVID HARTUNG

保持鸭皮酥脆，同时锁住肉汁。上桌时伴以自制蘸酱和细薄的饼皮，风味别具。

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T A S T I N G 38

K I T C H E N

C I R C L E

O F

T I M E

Tasting Kitchen Limited www.tasting-kitchen.com 2802, Admiralty Centre Tower One 18 Harcourt Road, Hong Kong Tel: +852 3748 3756 Fax: +852 3748 3738

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the world has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

David Hartung

Alicia Beebe

Mamie Chen

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

ART DIRECTOR

Andrea Lo

Joey Cheang

Jean Alberti

Chris Dwyer

MANAGING EDITOR

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

Inara Sim

Marilyn Burkley Robert Burkley

J. Carl Kerkman, MFA

Kate Nicholson

IMAGE EDITOR

Lucy Morgan

TRANSLATION SERVICES

EDITORS

Jane Wong

Lucy Jenkins

Babel Communications

Zita Wan

ACCOUNTANT

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Terrie Lam

Denise Lo Ann Kuok Vivian Pun

ADMINISTRATION MANAGER

Sarah Heller CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Lauriane Lemaire ACCOUNT DIRECTOR

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

GROUP ADVERTISING sales@tasting-kitchen.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

jonna@babel.com.tw

PRINTING Asia One Printing 13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street Chai Wan, Hong Kong

DISTRIBUTION One Logistics

The spiraling curves of our cover image echo the theme of an issue devoted to the circle of time. A varied portfolio of features tells of the career arcs of food and wine masters at every stage of life in stories ​ of inspiration, development, achievement, transition, and legacy. 封面上华丽吊灯的螺旋曲线图形与本期主题「时间之轮」遥相呼应。​ 在职业生涯中，厨艺和美酒大师有着许多关于灵感、发展、成就、过渡 和继承的故事。更多详情，请翻阅本期杂志。

Photography by David Hartung

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©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2018 All rights reserved

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.

In this issue, Circle of Time, we share stories of a number of culinary and wine professionals at various points in their careers, following chefs and chefs de cave through arcs of inspiration, development, achievement, transition, and legacy.

Our first is a tale of youth, in which Emmanuel Soulière, president of Disciples Escoffier in Macau, mentors a young chef preparing for his first competition. Lessons start with techniques for preparing a simple classic egg dish and progress on to discovering the means to express individual vision in an original creation.

Our next story follows Executive Chef Tam Kwok Fung as he transitions into a challenging new role. Rather than resting on his Michelin-starred laurels, the chef is constantly looking out for new ingredients, new techniques, and new ways to surprise his guests.

The Champagne house Dom Pérignon has sustained its success by revering traditions while having the courage to push boundaries. Its singular chef de cave, Richard Geoffroy, has been the spiritual soul of the brand for the past twenty-eight years. Now, in a turning point filled with joy as well as nostalgia, he is passing on the leadership of the historic house to his protégé, Vincent Chaperon.

Joël Robuchon is recognized as the foremost culinary genius of his generation. During his lifetime, he was named Chef of the Century, and his collection of restaurants was awarded more Michelin stars than that of any other chef in history. In celebration of his ongoing legacy, a gala dinner tribute was held in Macau to explore and appreciate Robuchon’s passion for the best seasonal products, his technical perfection, and his inimitable finesse.

This year, wherever you may be in the circle of life, we wish you the best of times ahead.

MARK HAMMONS

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THE ART OF WINE. DOWN TO EARTH.

Austrian wines are invitations.

of nature, Austrian wines proudly stand

Simply open a cellar door to meet the

among the world’s greatest wines and

most approachable international stars

are poured at renowned restaurants all

imaginable: the great wines of Austria.

over the globe.

Produced by true artisans respectful

austrianwine.com

CONTENTS

2 STARTER 32 Excellence and Éclat

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CONTENTS

10 Riesling’s Rivals • 12 Auspicious Upcycling • 14 Lighting the Way • 18 A Chef’s Duty 22 Master of the Palace • 28 Succeeding Successfully • 44 Magic and Metamorphosis​ 60 Match Point • 68 Essentially Portuguese • 74 Embers and Elegance • 82 Ingredients First 86 New-Fashioned Christmas • 88 Showtime • 90 Understanding Flavors​ 92 Turning Up the Heat • 100 Glorious Possibilities • 102 Under-30 Cuisine • 110 Turning Green ​ 118 L I S T I N G S • 120 D E S S E R T

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WINE ART

媲美雷司令

riesling’s rivals

德国与该国的雷司令葡萄品种之间有着很深 的联系，这在其他国家是很少见的。花香 细致、香甜、轻盈，是德国雷司令葡萄酒最 典型的印象。然而，特级干白酒款 Grosses

Germany’s less-heralded grapes are beginning to make their mark.

COLUMN AND ART BY SARAH HELLER

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FEW COUNTRIES are as closely associ-

Gewächs（简称「GG」）是采用德国特定几

ated with a single grape variety as Germany is with riesling. The stereotypical portrait of a German riesling is one of floral delicacy, sweetness, and light. But the rise of the GG or Grosses Gewächs category, comprising the greatest dry wines made from specific, top-quality sites across Germany, is slowly shifting the picture in a bolder, sturdier direction.

Of particular note are the new breed of nonaromatic or semiaromatic dry whites made from less widely celebrated grape varieties like silvaner and weissburgunder (pinot blanc). Forsaking the dainty charm of their riesling counterparts, these wines are a ribald, voluptuous crew – earthy, generous, and unabashed.

Horst Sauer, of Bavaria’s Franken wine region, historically known for great silvaner, is the custodian of some of the greatest sites in the region, including the mainly southfacing Escherndorfer Lump. His exotically floral 2012 Silvaner Trocken Escherndorfer Am Lumpen Grosses Gewächs is heady on the entrance, anchored in oily almond and Asian pear on the mid-palate, and soft but clean in its leisurely conclusion.

个顶级葡萄园出品酿制的，这款酒正逐渐崛 起，亦慢慢地使德国葡萄酒的风格变得张扬、 扎实。 值得一提的是用西万尼和白皮诺等小众 葡萄品种酿制的新型非芳香与半芳香干型白 酒。相对于雷司令的楚楚动人，这些酒款属 于豪放而冶艳的一派，那么热情、大方、毫 不扭捏。 巴伐利亚邦弗兰肯葡萄酒产区自古 便以出产极佳西万尼而闻名。位于该区的

Horst Sauer 酒庄专责管理此地区数家顶级 葡萄园，包括针对南方市场的 Escherndorfer Lump。 这 里 酿 制 的 2012 年 西 万 尼 干 型

Escherndorfer Am Lumpen Grosses Gewächs 洋溢异国花香，入口浓烈强劲，舌中散发出 油滑的杏仁与水梨味，入喉后不疾不徐，漾 出柔顺清爽的尾韵。

Sarah Heller is a content creator, visual artist and wine expert and Asia’s youngest Master of Wine. ​ Here, she visually expresses the character of 2012 Silvaner Trocken Escherndorfer Am Lumpen Grosses Gewächs.

Sarah Heller是一位媒体创作人、视觉艺术家及葡萄酒专家，是亚洲最年轻的葡萄酒大师。​ 她别出心裁地以艺术形式表达2012年西万尼干型 Escherndorfer Am Lumpen Grosses Gewächs 葡萄酒的特色风格。

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FOOD & DESIGN

月映再生「璃」

auspicious upcycling

COURTESY OF W TAIPEI (2)

W Taipei teams up with a designer and a recycler to create its new mooncake-and-glassware gift set.

IN TAIWAN, Mid-Autumn Festival is that special time of year when family and friends gather to barbecue under the full moon and bakeries across the island ramp up production of mooncakes. Retailers too get in on the act, competing to come up with holiday gifts that will catch the fancy of shoppers.

Earlier this year, W Taipei joined forces with Spring Pool Glass, a pioneering local glass recycler, and Pili Wu, an innovative Taiwanese designer, to create Wowmoon, a limitededition mooncake gift set that features highly distinctive glassware. “Our studio,” Wu explains, “has always used local stories as a beginning point and based our designs on the concept ‘form follows story.’ Mid-Autumn Festival, of course, is one of Taiwan’s most important traditions.”

Launched in July, Wowmoon quickly sold out by late September. The tumblers’ scalloped walls mimic the form of mooncakes shaped in traditional hand-carved wooden molds.

Embodying a socially conscious design ethos, the greencolored glassware is made from empty Champagne bottles sourced from W Taipei’s Woobar. The connection to the bar is purposeful: W Taipei is subtly encouraging buyers of the sets to bring a touch of Woobar’s inventive cocktail culture to their homes by feasting on mooncakes while imbibing home-mixed drinks instead of the traditional wine.

“Whether or not people know that this is a recycled product,” says Wu,“I hope that the ideals of green living and recycling will no longer be just a slogan. The most important thing is that customers like the design and are willing to support the project.”

The set brought accolades in the 2018 edition of Taiwan’s Golden Pin Design Award. And, according to Yvette Yi, assistant director of marketing communications, W Taipei is already looking forward to future collaborations: “One of our brand’s passion points is design. We’ve established really good relationships with Spring Pool and Pili, so it’s very likely we’ll be working with them again next year on other projects related to sustainability.”

在台湾，中秋节是每年亲朋好友在满月下相聚烤肉的特别时 节，糕饼店的中秋月饼产量大增，连零售业者也来分食市场 大饼，竞相推出能吸引消费者的中秋节礼品。 上半年，台北 W 饭店与台湾玻璃回收先锋春池玻璃以 及台湾新生代设计师吴孝儒携手合作，共同打造「Wowmoon 无限」限量月饼礼盒， 内附别具风尚的玻璃杯。吴孝儒说： 「我 们的工作室一直以在地故事为初始，并以『形随故事』作为 设计基调，而中秋节正是台湾最重要的传统之一。 」 七月推出的「Wowmoon 无限」很快便于九月底销售一 空。其中， 「Wowmoon 邀月玻璃杯」的杯身造型，是模仿 传统手工雕刻的木制月饼模具，绿色的杯身由台北 W 饭店内 「WOOBAR」的空香槟酒瓶再制而成，隐涵具有社会意识的 设计理念。与「WOOBAR」合作是有巧思的，相对于传统的 红酒，台北 W 饭店希望消费者能在家自制调酒搭配月饼，鼓 励消费者将该饭店的调酒文化融入生活。 吴孝儒表示 ： 「无论消费者是否知道这是回收再生的玻 璃杯，我都希望绿色生活和回收再利用的理念不再仅仅是个 口号。关键还是消费者喜欢这款设计并愿意支持这个项目。 」 礼盒在 2018 年台湾金点设计奖中获得肯定。台北 W 饭 店行销公关副总监易采葳表示，公司已在期待未来的合作。 易采葳称 ： 「设计是我们品牌的轴心之一。我们已与春池玻璃 及设计师吴孝儒建立了良好的合作关系，因此我们明年很有 机会再次合作进行有关永续发展的相关计划。 」 circle of time

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风格

lighting the way A Shanghai design firm explores how innovations in restaurant lighting can enhance the dining experience.

“THE CLIENT GAVE US PLENT Y OF FREEDOM to realize our ideas,” says Sun Tian-Wen, chief designer at Shanghai Hip-pop Architectural Decoration Design Co. In 2016, the company’s creative team jumped at the chance to take on a project that would stand out in China’s fiercely competitive culinary landscape: a complete remodel of Waka Haiku Setsugekka in Changchun. Although the owner was exceptionally supportive, the restaurant’s huge fourteen-hundred-square-meter space and contemporary dining style presented challenges.

The team delved deep into the science of how colors influence human perception and studied how stage lighting is able to achieve

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上海黑泡泡建筑装饰设计工程有限公司的总设 计师孙天文说 ： 「客户给了我们很高的自由度来 实现我们的想法。 」2016 年，公司的创意团队 在长春适逢其会，操刀「雪月花日本料理餐厅」 的改造工程，这正是团队在中国竞争激烈的餐 饮界脱颖而出的契机。尽管料理店店主全力支 持，但对团队来说，一千四百平方米的大面积 及现代化的用餐风格却还是颇具挑战性。 对此，设计团队研究了颜色对感官知觉的 影响，以及灯光对打造令人惊艳的成品的作用。

IMAGES COURTESY SHANGHAI HIP-POP ARCHITECTURAL DECORATION DESIGN CO.

DESIGN

dramatic compositions. Then, based on just four factors – paint, glass, flooring, and lighting – they set out to create a space that would not only wow diners visually but also heighten the dining experience.

At the emotional level, the designers wanted to create a dreamy space influenced by the traditions of Japanese Zen. “We tried to use lighting to express Zen in a new way,” Sun explains, “full of poetry and romance and without any hint of bitterness. By choosing a minimalist design language and the least possible quantity of materials, we’ve created a new and powerful visual dynamic.”

At the sensory level, the Shanghai team was looking for ways to

随后，基于四大元素，即油漆、玻璃、地板和 灯光，团队联手打造了一个不仅为宾客带来视 觉享受，同时也能大大提升用餐体验的空间。 在情感层面，设计师想要创造一个饶富日 本禅宗传统的异想空间。孙天文说明 ： 「我们尝 试通过灯光来诠释禅宗。这是一种新的方式， 充满了诗意和浪漫，屏除艰涩之感。借助极简 的设计及尽可能少的材料，我们创造了一种新 颖而有力的视觉动态。 」 而在感官层面，设计团队亦寻找方法激发 circle of time

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DESIGN

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味蕾，如在许多日本料理中不可或缺的「鲜味」 。如上文所言，团队曾钻研颜色和灯光效果如 何影响感官知觉等方面。受研究内容启发，他 们利用大片的背光玻璃板为餐厅增添一些视觉 干扰。结果表明，在这样的环境下，宾客更能 专注于用味觉细细品尝料理中的鲜味和甜味。 设计团队将寿司吧装嵌了全黑的背景， 让厨师成为餐厅开阔空间中的目光焦点。 同时， 酒吧以 2200K 暖橘地面光为主。孙天文表示 ： 「暖色调能促进食欲，同时减缓四周墙面蓝光 的冷冽感。 」 此外，孙天文解释 ： 「灯光是这次工程的 主角。所有的概念、造型和材料都是为灯光 服务。这个概念是我们工作室的新尝试，也 是这项工程中最有价值的部分。 」事实上，凭 借对灯光的创意使用手法以及对极简材料的 掌控能力，设计团队在 2018 年获台湾金点设 计奖评审的肯定，摘得人人称羡的金点设计 奖标章。

IMAGES COURTESY SHANGHAI HIP-POP ARCHITECTURAL DECORATION DESIGN CO. (3)

stimulate the enjoyment of basic tastes like umami, that indispensable part of the flavor profile of so many Japanese dishes. Inspired by recent research into the ways in which color and lighting affect a diner’s taste perceptions, they filled the restaurant with visual noise by means of huge panels of backlit glass. The result was a marked gain in diners’ ability to identify both umami and sweet notes in their food.

The team installed a stark black background behind the sushi bar to make the chef the center of attention in the restaurant’s vast space.

The bar itself is made of orange glass lit from below with 2200K light. Its warm color, says Sun, increases a diner’s appetite and at the same time offsets the coolness of the brilliant blue light emanating from the surrounding walls.

“Lighting plays the lead role in this project,” Sun explains, “and all the concepts, shapes, and materials are in its service. This emphasis was a new approach for our studio and the most rewarding part of the endeavor.” It was, in fact, the designers’ imaginative use of lighting, as well as their mastery of minimalist materials, that impressed the judges of the 2018 edition of Taiwan’s Golden Pin Design Award and won the studio a coveted Design Mark for the project.

A view of the dramatic restaurant facade ​ 注目的餐厅外观

Emmanuel Soulière, Yu Jie Tao 余杰涛

MOVERS & SHAKERS

大厨使命

a chef’s duty Mentoring young talent in Asia’s culinary world is the calling of an association of illustrious chefs.

DAVID HARTUNG

“WE’RE HERE TO POLISH YOUNG CHEFS and give them confidence,” says

Emmanuel Soulière, who is vice chairman of the Association of the Disciples Escoffier in Asia and president of its Macau chapter. “I think that it’s really our duty.”

Soulière is one of the founding members of the Asian branch of Disciples Escoffier International, which brings together some twenty-five thousand chefs around the world. Founded in 1954 in Nice, France, it is named after legendary chef and restaurateur Auguste Escoffier, a pioneer of modern French cooking in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries.

Today, Soulière is executive chef at The Parisian Macao, overseeing restaurants in the hotel group. A native of France, he worked in Israel and Spain before arriving in China about fifteen years ago. He was quick to see the opportunity for enhancing the regional food and beverage industry: “We felt we were missing an association where we could grow and share our knowledge.” Disciples Escoffier was petitioned, and its Asian offshoot was born.

As part of his role, Soulière oversees Macau’s edition of the association’s annual Young Talent Trophy, a global culinary competition open to chefs under the age of twenty-five. The Macau winner goes on to compete in Hong Kong against participants from nine countries in Asia, and the winner of that round travels to France for the world finals.

During the Macau competition, Soulière took an active part in the two-month preparation period assigned to the six contestants involved. The competition was in two phases, the first of which tasked the chefs with making and modernizing an egg dish found in Escoffier’s L’Aide-Mémoire culinaire . “It’s one of the bibles of French cooking,” says Soulière. “Each young chef had to practice classic techniques and also incorporate creative elements. They’d call me and show me their work, and I might say, ‘Your technique is not good enough here, you’re missing this and that.’ We’d sit down, try the dish, and then go back to work.”

While the egg round served as more of a coaching session, the second phase was the crucial judging round in which the participants were required to prepare their own original recipes in just one hour. After getting to know the participants and mentoring them, Soulière admits he “didn’t want to be a judge.”

The 2018 Macau winner, Yu Jie Tao of Grand Lapa Macau, credits Soulière as instrumental in his preparation for the race: “He’d say, ‘Prep the following ingredients for me, and I’ll show you how it’s done.’ Then we’d try it together.”

Soulière is convinced that as Macau’s culinary scene grows, the competition will serve as the perfect forum for furthering the careers of up-and-coming young chefs.

“Escoffier’s disciples are committed to sharing knowledge, and that can help make doors open very easily.” circle of time

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MOVERS & SHAKERS

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名厨 Emmanuel Soulière 是埃科菲国际厨师协会的 亚洲部副主席以及澳门区会长。他表示 ： 「我们的任 务是协助年轻厨师更上一层楼，增强他们的信心。 这确实是我们的职责所在。 」

Emmanuel 是埃科菲国际厨师协会的亚洲区创 办人之一，该协会至今汇聚世界各地精英大厨，会 员 逾 25,000 人。1954 年， 埃 科 菲 国 际 厨 师 协 会 于 法 国 尼 斯 成 立， 以 传 奇 名 厨 奥 古 斯 特 • 埃 科 菲 （Auguste Escoffier，1846-1935） 的 名 字 命 名， 他 是十九世纪末、二十世纪初的现代法国料理先锋。

Emmanuel 目前担任澳门巴黎人酒店的行政总 厨，负责监管酒店的所有餐厅。Emmanuel 出生于 法国，曾任职于以色列与西班牙，其后约于 2003 年来到中国，很快便发现带动当地餐饮业培训的机 遇。他表示 ： 「我们觉得这里缺乏一个能让我们成长 并分享厨艺知识的平台。 」随后，埃科菲国际厨师协 会接获请求，而亚洲区分部也应运而生。

Emmanuel 也负责监管一年一度的澳门区埃科 菲青年厨师大赛，这是为 25 岁以下的青年厨师所设 的国际厨艺大赛，澳门区赛优胜者将前往香港与来 自其他九个亚洲国家的厨艺新星一决胜负，胜出者 将代表亚洲参加在法国举行的世界冠军赛。 在 澳 门 区 埃 科 菲 青 年 厨 师 大 赛 期 间，

Emmanuel 受 命 协 助 六 位 参 赛 者 在 比 赛 前 两 个 月 的 准 备 工 作。 比 赛 共 分 为 两 个 阶 段， 第 一 阶 段 中， 参 赛 者 必 须 烹 调 出 埃 科 菲 著 作《 烹 饪 指 南

(L'Aide-Mémoire culinaire)》中的现代法式蛋料理。 「这本书可说是法式料理的圣经，每 Emmanuel 说 ： 位青年厨师参赛者必须同时展现经典料理厨艺，并 融入创意元素。他们会打电话来，向我展示作品， 我可能会说 ： 『你的技巧不够到位，忘了做这些或那 些事』 ，然后我们会坐下来好好品尝他的料理，接着 继续努力。 」 第一阶段的法式蛋料理赛其实更像是场训练 赛，相较之下，第二阶段则是非常关键的评审阶 段，参赛者需在一小时内烹调出一道个人原创料理。

Emmanuel 负责指导每位参赛青年。与他们更为熟 识后，他表示 ： 「还真不想当评审。 」

2018 年埃科菲青年厨师大赛的澳门区赛，由 来自金丽华酒店的余杰涛先生获胜，他表示在准备

Yu Jie Tao from Grand Lapa Macau, winner of Escoffier Young Talent Macau Selection 2018

我们就会一起动手料理。 」 MARK HAMMONS

2018年澳门区埃科菲青 年厨师大赛冠軍、来自 金丽华酒店的余杰涛

「他会说 ： 比赛的过程深受 Emmanuel 指导与启发 ： 『只要帮我准备这些食材，我会教你怎么做。 』然后

Emmanuel 深信，随着澳门饮食业越来愈发达， 该项大赛更能成为新一代厨师的完美圆梦平台，帮 助他们大展拳脚，他表示 ： 「埃科菲协会的厨师致力 于传承知识，帮助有志者敲开厨艺梦想的大门。 」 circle of time

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PRESENTED BY WYNN PALACE

FOR HIS RECENTLY COMMENCED REIGN

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再创粤菜殿堂

master of the palace One of the world’s most acclaimed Cantonese chefs opens a new chapter at Wing Lei Palace.

DAVID HARTUNG

as executive chef of Wynn Palace’s finedining restaurant Wing Lei Palace, Tam Kwok Fung has a fittingly grand setting. A lavish celebration of Chinese cultural traditions, the experience begins with a walk through a regal garden of thousands of exotic orchids, roses, and hydrangeas.

Then the view opens up on the spectacular three-level dining room overlooking Performance Lake with its extraordinary fountain show. Splendor and luxury are at every turn. Embellishments of gold, fine porcelain, jade, jeweled lanterns, and opulent drapery make the room feel like a cross between an opera house and a royal residence.

The pressure is on Tam to match the surroundings, but there’s no surer hand in a Cantonese kitchen than this master with a Michelin-starred background. “Our clients travel around the world and have great experience in fine dining and upscale restaurants,” he says, “so it’s not good enough to serve a textbook menu. They’re looking for something really special – a surprise.”

Even with his decades of experience in top restaurants, Tam says that his key culinary mentor remains his mother: “I saw her cook every day, and we’d go to the countryside of Canton, her birthplace.” Today, he oversees a team of more than thirty that prepare classic Cantonese dishes enlivened by his imaginative innovations.

The creative process starts with assiduous sourcing. “I still like to keep discovering, and even with the same brand of meat, I’ll chase them for a different cut or marbling. In imported seafood, I look for variety, but I also visit the local fish market every two days.

It’s very nice to get fish that was on the boat just a few hours before.” He’s also open to new products: “We recently added a New Zealand Te Mana lamb rack to the menu. It’s some of the best meat in the world, but it’s

Barbecued suckling pig filled with minced shrimps top with caviar 黑鱼子百花乳猪件

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知名粤菜烹饪大师谭国锋近日正式出任永利皇 宫路氹「永利宫」的行政总厨。餐厅装潢富丽 堂皇，充满传统中式情调。要在此享用美馔飨 宴，客人要先经过一个姹紫嫣红、满布异国兰花、 玫瑰与绣球花的花园。 接着映入眼帘的是三层楼设计的用餐区， 从这里可俯瞰喷泉表演。目光所及尽是金碧辉 煌，璀璨的金饰、精美瓷器、晶透玉石，镶有 宝石的灯笼及典雅气派的帘幕等比目皆是，用 餐区仿如歌剧院般豪华，处处彰显皇室气派。 为打造出足以与华丽氛围呼应的餐点，谭 总厨也备感压力，但身为稳坐粤菜界第一把交 椅的厨师，且拥有米其林星级加持，他的烹饪 技术无人能比。谭总厨说 ： 「我们的客人周游列 国，经常出入高级精致餐厅，因此制式化的菜 单早已不敷期望，他们心中渴望的是『惊喜』 。 」 尽管已在顶级餐厅工作数十载，谭总厨表 示一生中最重要的烹饪导师一直是他的母亲。 「我天天看着她下厨，我们甚至还去她出生地的 广东乡村。 」现今，他带领一个超过三十多人的 团队，运用奇思妙想创作出一道道经典粤式料 Executive Chef Tam Kwok Fung 行政总厨谭国锋

理。 创作餐点的过程始于对食材的探本溯源， 他说 ： 「我喜欢不断发掘，即使是同一品牌的肉 品，也要寻求不同的切割方式或油花分布。对

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于进口海鲜，我讲求多样性，然而，每两天我 也会走访本地鱼市场，以购入几小时前刚打捞 上船的渔获。 」他也乐于尝试新颖的食材 ： 「最 近在菜单上增加了一道孜然香烤羊架。这款新 西兰羊架是全世界最上等的肉类之一，但这种 肉品却不常为其他中餐厅所用。羊排先以孜然 和五香粉等中式调味料腌制，再放入荔枝木烤 箱中烘烤二十分钟。 」 要使餐点惊艳四座，摆盘也绝不能马虎。 谭总厨笑着说 ： 「现在人人都有手机！从厨房端 出来的一切都必须精准到位。 」他的摆盘理念是 确保盘中每样食材都有其存在的价值且让客人 方便享用。他称 ： 「相较于摆盘，我仍倾向在料 理上投入百分之八十的精力。然而，装饰点缀 必须与整道菜式保持和谐，例如香菜可以用于 点缀香炒石斑鱼片。此外，温度的掌控在粤菜 中亦十分重要，我们要确保当餐点端上桌时仍 是热的。说到底，菜式的成败关键仍是食物本 身的品质及水准。 」 谭总厨的法国蓝龙虾以二十年的花雕酒蒸 煮而成。他说 ： 「由于宾客有时也喜欢换换口味， 所以我们有几种不同的龙虾可供选择，如澳洲 龙虾或本地产小龙虾。餐盘底部铺上以慢火制 成的柔滑蛋白，最后以香菜点缀其上。 」

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

just not used that much in other Chinese restaurants. We cook it naturally in a lychee-wood oven for twenty minutes after marinating it in Chinese seasoning with cumin and five spices.”

As his dishes stunningly demonstrate, presentation is also critical.

“Everyone has a phone!” he laughs. “Everything that comes out of the kitchen has to be right.” His plating philosophy ensures that dishes are userfriendly for eating and that every element makes a contribution. “I still prefer to spend 80 percent of my energy on the cooking, not on what surrounds it.

Decorative touches have to be in harmony with the entire dish – a few sprigs of coriander, for example, make sense with stir-fried garouper. Temperature is also very important in Cantonese cuisine, and we make sure that when we transfer a dish from the pass to the table, it’s still piping hot. At the end of the day, what counts is the caliber of the food.”

His steamed lobster with twenty-year-old Shaoxing wine uses the finest Brittany blues. “We actually have several types on offer as clients occasionally like to make a switch, maybe Australian rock or local baby lobster. Silky egg-white custard cooked very gently is on the base of the plate and coriander is on top.”

Vegetables fried rice with lychee roasted goose and seasonal black truffle is also a popular dish created by Chef Tam. “It’s a very traditional technique, but the seasoning is not too strong or spicy. We stir-fry shallots, garlic, and coriander root for the stuffing, with a mix of five spices and soy paste. It’s really important not to overpower the flavor of the meat, the famous Magang goose from Guangdong, which we cook over lychee wood.”

Steamed French blue lobster with 20-year-aged​ Hua Diao and egg white 二十年花雕蛋白蒸法国蓝龙虾

PRESENTED BY WYNN PALACE

Roasted rack of ​ New Zealand lamb ​ with cumin 孜然香烤羊架

Selection of dim sum - Baked black pepper roast goose puffs, steamed seasonal mushroom dumplings, taro puffs filled with scallop 精选点心－黑椒烧鹅酥、野菌水晶饺、蜂巢带子芋角

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Chef Tam’s fish soup is traditional in the cuisine of Shunde, where his family is from. “We use freshwater codfish and garouper bones to make the broth, bean-curd flavor and turnip to get the sweetness. We cook it together with premium fish maw, wood fungus, and loofah, all finely julienned. Some customers ask for fish dishes when they make a booking, because they know the chef is from Shunde!”

Nowhere is Chef Tam’s mastery more apparent than in Wing Lei Palace’s elegant array of dim sum offerings. The visual effect of his beautifully crafted baked black pepper roast goose puffs, for example, is matched by their rich flavor complexity.

Always open to trying new things, Tam has introduced a number of enhancements to Wing Lei Palace: “We’ve just launched a tea trolley with a sommelier to provide a pairing service and also a candy trolley with Chinese favorites like sesame lollipops, macarons, jasmine, lychee, and Chinese berries. The guests love it.”

For the chef’s pièce de ré ​sis​t ance, sumptuous suckling pig with caviar, the team stuffs the skin with minced shrimp and covers it with sesame seeds before deep-frying the pig until crispy and topping it with black pearls of caviar. “We use a variety of caviar from Iran. It has made a lot of customers quite happy, including some very famous chefs – they’ve never seen it! It’s part of my job to inspire and educate our guests. I like to come out and talk to them and let them know who’s cooking.

That’s the way to run a really good restaurant.”

极品烧鹅饭亦是谭总厨一道相当受欢迎的菜式。谭 总厨说 ： 「虽然我们用的是非常传统的料理技术，但调 味必须适中，不可过于浓烈或者辛辣。烧鹅时所用到的 填料以青葱、大蒜、香菜根、五香粉和酱油膏炒制而成。 最后用荔枝木熏烤，让此著名的广东马冈鹅鲜味充分展 现。 」 谭总厨的花胶鱼蓉羹是来自故乡 ― 顺德的怀旧料 理，他说 ： 「我们先以淡水鳕鱼和石斑鱼鱼骨熬制汤底， 并以豆腐和白萝卜带出甜味，最后再与切丝的上等花胶、 木耳、丝瓜一同炖煮。有些顾客在订座时就会指名要鱼 类料理，因为他们知道厨师来自顺德！」 「永利宫」的一系列精致点心亦能突显出谭总厨的 功架。例如美仑美奂的黑椒烧鹅酥，各种香味交织，味 道层次丰富，与外型相比绝不逊色。 谭总厨总是乐于尝试新事物，为「永利宫」推陈出 新，他表示 ： 「我们近期推出茶车，由茶师提供茶品配搭 的服务。此外，还有糖果车，提供中国人喜爱的芝麻糖， 马卡龙、茉莉、荔枝和中式莓果，都深受客人的喜爱。 」 黑鱼子百花乳猪件是谭总厨的代表作。厨师团队先 以碎虾肉填入猪皮，并以芝麻粒覆盖，油炸至酥脆后， 再以如黑珍珠般的鱼子酱装缀其上。谭总厨说 ： 「我们使 用来自伊朗的各式鱼子酱，许多客人甚至一些知名主厨 从未尝过类似的菜品，所以他们为此感到很高兴。启发 及引导客人也是我工作的一部分。我喜欢走出厨房与客 人交谈，让客人知道谁是当家主厨，这是成功经营一家 好餐厅的方式。 」 circle of time

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WINE MASTER

一脉相承

succeeding successfully

Vincent Chaperon, Richard Geoffroy

MARK HAMMONS (2)

TK talks with Richard Geoffroy, Dom Pérignon’s chef de cave for the past twenty-eight years, and Vincent Chaperon, the protégé to whom he will soon be passing the torch.

ON JANUARY 1, Vincent Chaperon becomes chef de cave of Dom Pérignon. “I feel a sense of serenity,” says Richard Geoffroy about relinquishing his title. “There’s a lightness – almost a joy.” The warmth between the men has something familial about it. “Richard is a mentor, not a teacher,” explains Chaperon. “I love our relationship. He’s helped me to grow, and in life you need that, because it’s never easy.”

Geoffroy sees the role of chef de cave as part oenologist, part custodian of tradition, and part daredevil. He views the blending of grapes from different vineyards as a balancing act between art and science, and he’s noted for his bold approach in waiting – at the mercy of the weather – for grapes to reach full maturity before harvest to attain the deepest expression of their flavor. “Sometimes it’s about risk,” he says. “Risk means you may fail – if there’s no possibility of that, it wasn’t a risk at all. Taking risks is essential and brings so much soul to the brand.”

Chaperon has taken part in thirteen harvests for Dom Pérignon since he began working alongside Geoffroy in 2005, and together they have declared four vintages: 2005, 2006, 2009, and, most recently, 2008. Vintages are declared only when the chef de cave decides an individual wine is ready, and not always in chronological order.

According to Geoffroy, the fact that vintage Champagne sets its own pace is just another unpredictable facet of the job. “Technical understanding of winemaking is very important, but it’s more of a foundational platform. It’s humanity that can help you master your craft and elevate creativity. Humility is essential too, but,” he says with a laugh, “I shouldn’t claim that I’m humble – it sounds arrogant!”

A sapient blend of scientist and philosopher, Geoffroy remains focused on the concept of harmony, not only between the varied grapes in a glass of Dom Pérignon, but also between vineyard and wine lover: “There’s a human sense of beauty that we share, a harmony embodied in different ways in different cultures but with a feeling that is the same.”

Geoffroy has traveled widely in his role of

明 年 一 月 一 日，Vincent Chaperon 将 接 任 当 上 Dom Pérignon 酒 庄 的 首 席 酿 酒 师。 「我 Richard Geoffroy 提到他卸下头衔的感受 ： 心中非常平静，有一种放下重担，甚至可以 说是『喜悦』的感觉。 」而两人之间的温情， 「Richard 几乎快升华成为亲情。Vincent 表示： 对我来说不是老师，而是人生导师。我非常 庆幸有他这个朋友，他的提点让我获益良多， 能遇到如此提拔自己的人，可谓可遇不可求。 」

Richard 将这个职位，看作是酿酒师、传 统的守护者和胆大狂人的集合体。他也把将 不同葡萄园的葡萄混和的过程，看作是艺术 与科学的巧妙平衡。他之所以声名远扬，是 因为他勇于承受天气的考验，坚持等到葡萄 完全熟成，以使果实呈现臻于完美的风味。 他说 ： 「有时候就是得深入虎穴，有风险就有 成败，如果保证万无一失，那就称不上冒险了。 有点风险是必要的，也能让我们的产品更有 灵魂。 」

Vincent 从 2005 年 起 在 Richard 身 边 工 作， 已 经 参 与 过 十 三 次 Dom Pérignon 酒 庄 的采收时期，也一起发表过四款葡萄酒，分 别 是 2005 年、2006 年、2009 年 及 最 近 的 2008 年。葡萄酒的发表，全依靠首席酿酒师 circle of time

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WINE MASTER

“At Dom Pérignon, to reach such a level of quality, to excel and maintain consistency every year, you must experiment.

DOM PÉRIGNON 每年为达到高品质、 追求卓越并维持产品一致性，试验是

去判断酒品是否熟成完毕，并不一定照着年份的顺 序。

Richard 表示，这些香槟葡萄酒的熟成速率， 也只是酿酒过程中的不稳定因素之一。他笑着说 ： 「酿酒的技术知识固然非常重要，但仅只是一切的 基础。人性才是真正使你成为酿酒大师与提升创造 力的重要因素。另外，酿酒师还得时刻保持谦虚。 不过，我不应该说自己谦虚，不然听起来岂不是有 点自大了！」

Richard 就像科学家与哲学家的智慧融合结晶， 注重「和谐」概念，不只在 Dom Pérignon 酒杯内

很重要的一环。”

的各种葡萄间，更在葡萄园和葡萄酒热爱者之间呈

VINCENT CHAPERON

体会的方式与文化不同，却有同样的感受。 」

现。他认为 ： 「我们之间有种共通的人性美，虽然

Richard 走 访 全 球 各 地， 将 Dom Pérignon 的 酒推广到全世界。他曾天马行空地将香槟酒搭配日

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式料理，也曾拜访南美洲，探寻三千年前流传至今 的复杂酱汁「巧克力辣椒酱」的秘密。他说 ： 「南 美洲看起来到处都黑黑的，土壤也是，巧克力辣椒 酱也是。连酱料发出的烟熏泥土香气，也带着暗沉 的色调，用来搭配 Dom Pérignon 2003，简直再适 合不过了。 」

Vincent 和 Richard 一 样， 都 非 常 热 爱 文 学、 诗歌和社会科学，两人都喜爱广交好友。他说 ： 「我 喜欢认识新朋友。我是个有好奇心的人，爱从人们 身上学习新事物，每一刻都是挖掘新知识和获得启 发的机会。 」 两位首席酿酒师一致认为，le goût，法文的 「风味」 ，不论是从酒品质地或是美学角度来看，都 「风味就 是必须铭记于心的重要概念。Vincent 说 ： 是核心价值，是一种文化与感官的平衡。在法国与 欧洲文化中，我们经常探讨风味。它是一种梦、一 种想像，也是一种人与人之间共通的审美观。Dom

Pérignon 积 极 拥 抱 并 发 扬 这 种 观 念。」Richard 赞 同地说 ： 「我喜欢那种『发扬』的概念。有些人或 有些计划诉求内敛自省，而在这里，我们讲求『扩 张』 。 」 每批葡萄酿造中所运用的科学技术，是他们 坚持的哲学与美学思维背后最强力的后盾。Richard 说： 「我们工作的地方有个实验室，这是个从未公 开的秘密，其实我们每年持续试验上千瓶葡萄酒。 」 「Dom Pérignon 每年为达到高品质、 Vincent 补充 ： 追求卓越并维持产品一致性，试验是很重要的一 环。 」 「几年前， 至于继承人的挑选，Richard 说道 ： 我心里开始出现一种声音，告诉我该为自己的人生 旅程和崭新的冒险与探索好好计划。卸任是一个漫 长的过程，必须深思熟虑才能找出合适的人选。很 久以前我就注意到 Vincent，他能在人性和技术的 取决中找到绝佳平衡。Vincent 已经与我共同奋斗 了很长时日，他洞悉了 Dom Pérignon 未来的展望 和一路走来的精髓及灵魂，因此我非常放心。显然， 他将会走出一条自己的路。 」

MARK HAMMONS

exploring ways to bring Dom Pérignon’s wines to a broader global audience. He has paired Champagnes creatively with Japanese food and visited South America to seek out the mysteries of molé, the complex sauce thought to have originated three thousand years ago.

“Everything seems black in South America,” he says, “the soil, the color of mole. Its smoky, earthy flavors are dark too, and they pair wonderfully with Dom Pérignon 2003.”

Chaperon, who shares with Geoffroy a keen interest in literature, poetry, and social science, takes a similarly wide-ranging approach. “I like meeting people,” he says. “I’m curious and learn things from the people I meet. Every moment is an opportunity to explore and be inspired.”

As chefs de cave, both believe that le goût , taste, is an essential concept to keep in mind, in both its physical and aesthetic senses.

“Taste is central,” says Chaperon. “It’s the balance between culture and sensuality. We talk a lot about taste in French and European culture. It’s about dreams, imagination, and sharing with people – an aesthetic value linked to relationships. The Dom Pérignon brand has the generosity to embrace and expand this discussion.” Geoffroy concurs: “I love that idea of ‘expansion.’ Some people and some projects can be quite introspective, but here it’s about expansion.”

Their philosophic and aesthetic flights are backed up by scientific abilities they put to use in making innovations from one harvest to the next. “There’s a laboratory where we work,” says Geoffroy. “It’s a secret that I never talk about, but we’re continually experimenting with thousands of bottles every year.” Adds Chaperon, “At Dom Pérignon, to reach such a level of quality, to excel and maintain consistency every year, you must experiment.”

Regarding his plans for a successor, Geoffroy remarks, “Years back, I had the feeling that I needed to start thinking about my personal journey, my need to venture and explore new territories.

Handing things over is a long-term process, and you have to think highly of the person you appoint. Very early on I started thinking about Vincent – he has the perfect balance of humanity and technical ability. It’s very reassuring, because Vincent has been working with me for so long and he knows the vision and the path of Dom Pérignon in essence and spirit. Clearly, he’ll make his own way.”

Richard Geoffroy

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PRESENTED BY GRAND LISBOA HOTEL

厨界传奇 续写辉煌

EXCELLENCE AND ÉCLAT

DAVID HARTUNG

One of the great names of the culinary world leaves a legacy destined to live on.

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1996 年，Joël Robuchon 卸 下 长 达 三十六年专业厨师的身份，此举惊动 了整个餐饮界。万众瞩目的 Robuchon 早已享誉国际，皆因他在巴黎的第一 家餐厅「Jamin」创下最快摘下米其林 三星的纪录，个人也获得无数的国际 盛赞，还被《高德米鲁》美食评鉴封 为「世纪厨师」 。他曾表明 ： 「为了追 求完美的品质与服务，我想在事业巅 峰时期就引退。 」

Robuchon 不仅经营餐厅，也通过 作为法国烹饪节目的主持及担任厨师 顾问，传授专业知识。同时，他利用 闲暇走访世界各地，藉由接触新兴想 法与潮流来开拓眼界及解放思维。七 年中，Robuchon 不断向前迈进，不走 回头路，致力发起一场餐饮革命。

Robuchon 的灵感来自于西班牙小 菜及日本寿司吧台的欢愉氛围，将不 起眼的薯泥升华为精致美食，让宾客 为之惊艳。如今，他正尝试重新诠释 「精致餐饮」 。2003 年，他在东京首开 。 餐 厅「L’ATELIER de Joël Robuchon」 两周后， 他便在巴黎为「精致休闲餐饮」 打响了时尚的名号。 白色的桌布早已过时，就连餐桌 本身也是，取而代之的是面向开放式 厨房的长吧台。着装要求精简为正式 休闲装，餐厅也尽可能地采用无预约 制。客人可以选择单一价格的套餐组 合或单点前菜、主菜及下酒小菜，而 非繁复的组合菜单。

Robuchon 坚 守 自 身 的 料 理 哲 学，并揉进了每道餐点。同时，他尤 其重视上盛的食材，将烹饪技巧化繁 为简，只利用细腻的手法来突显食材 本 身。Robuchon 信 赖 的 左 右 手 Eric 「他指导我们，餐 Bouchenoire 说道 ： 盘子上最多只可呈现三种风味，因为 当食材够新鲜，就足以相得益彰。 」

Robuchon 倾尽他的真知灼见，他 是宣扬「精致休闲餐饮」的先驱。借 ，他成功为宾客提 着 餐 厅「L’Atelier」 供更舒适的用餐环境，并让客人能以 更实惠的价格享受优质餐点。 还值得一提的是他所创下的纪录， 他掌托的餐厅一间接着一间地走进各

DAVID HARTUNG

JOËL ROBUCHON shocked the gastronomic realm in 1996 by retiring at the height of a thirty-six-year career as a professional chef. He had long grown accustomed to garnering plaudits and had already sealed his global reputation. After all, hadn’t he made history with the quickestever accumulation of three Michelin stars, for his first Paris restaurant, Jamin, and hadn’t he received countless international accolades, including the title Chef of the Century from Gault & Millau? “I want to step down while still at my peak to pursue perfect taste and service,” he famously declared.

Unfettered by the grind of running a restaurant, Robuchon continued to pass on his expertise in the role of consulting chef and by hosting French cooking shows. And in his newfound free time, he traveled the world, opening mind and heart to new ideas and influences. Within seven years, Robuchon was reenergized and raring to go – not, however, back to the fold but onward to spark a revolution.

Freshly inspired by the conviviality of Spanish tapas bars and Japanese sushi counters, the chef, who had thrilled his guests by elevating humble mashed potatoes to a sublime dish of haute cuisine, now sought to reinvent the concept of fine dining. With the 2003 launch of L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, first in Tokyo and then two weeks later in Paris, Robuchon sounded the modern call for fine-casual dining.

Gone were the starched white tablecloths. Gone too, in fact, were the tables themselves, replaced by long counters facing an open kitchen. Dress codes were eased to smart casual, and walk-ins were accommodated whenever possible. Instead of a long degustation menu, guests could choose from a short prix fixe set menu or from a list of à la carte starters and mains and small tapas-style tasting dishes.

Robuchon’s unshakable culinary philosophy, expressed on every plate, remained the same. Above all, it called for a reverential respect for exceptional products. But he simplified his cooking by highlighting ingredients with refined techniques and without fussiness. “He taught us,” explains Eric Bouchenoire, Robuchon’s trusted second-in-command, “that there can be at most three flavors on a plate. When the products are fresh enough, they are self-sufficient.”

Ever the visionary, Robuchon was first to champion the cause of fine-casual dining. With L’Atelier, he succeeded brilliantly in offering guests outstanding food in more relaxed surroundings and at more accessible prices.

The rest is a matter of record: venues opened in city

L E C AV I A R D E S O LO G N E 鱼子酱伴椰菜花奶油 及海鲜冻

Caviar and crustacean jelly are topped with delicate cauliflower cream that simultaneously cuts the salinity and amplifies the rich flavor of the roe. Garnished with precisely placed, vibrantly green dots, this iconic dish is a master class in the expert pairing of ingredients, and it quickly became a symbol of Robuchon’s famed perfectionism.

鱼子酱和海鮮冻上覆盖了细致的椰菜 花奶油，减少了咸度并突显鱼子的鲜 味，颜色鲜明的香芹泥俐落地点缀其 中。这道菜让各种食材的风味迸发， 很快就成为了 Robuchon 的代表作。

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after city to critical raves. At its peak in 2016, Robuchon’s empire stretched across three continents and his restaurants amassed a record-breaking thirty-two Michelin stars – proof positive that his revolution had won the day.

Robuchon had kindled a different kind of fine-dining revolution in 2001 when he was invited by Hotel Lisboa’s management team to open Robuchon a Galera. It was Robuchon’s first restaurant in the Greater China region and Macau’s first fine-dining establishment. The triumphant introduction of his fresh and lively style of contemporary French cuisine

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个城市， 且广受好评。在巅峰时期的 2016 年，

Robuchon 的餐饮帝国已横跨三大洲，并破 纪录地摘下三十二颗米其林星星，这就是他 革命胜利的证明。

2001 年，Robuchon 被澳门葡京酒店管 ， 理 层 邀 请 开 设 餐 厅「Robuchon a Galera」 掀起新一波「精致餐饮」革命。这是他在大 中华地区的首家餐厅，也是澳门首家「精致 餐饮」餐厅，成功引进风格鲜活的当代法式

PRESENTED BY GRAND LISBOA HOTEL

L A P O U L A R D E D E B R E SS E 法式传统煮鸡伴时菜及日本松茸

In keeping with Robuchon’s philosophy, the Bresse chicken is cooked en vessie , the once-preferred method of preserving poultry’s moisture and flavor. Enclosed within an inflated pig bladder, the chicken poaches in an aromatic broth and absorbs the intense fragrances swirling in the steam. When the dish is served tableside, the “balloon” is pierced and the chicken is carved and plated with creamy matsutake mushroom sauce. 在 Robuchon 的料理哲学中，布雷斯鸡应像这样在猪肚中蒸煮，这曾经是保存肉汁和 风味的最佳方法。鸡肉浸泡在芳香的高汤中，并密封在膨胀的猪肚内蒸煮，充分吸收 当中弥漫的香气。上桌时「气球」会在桌边被刺穿，鸡肉则被切片并淋上奶油松茸蘑

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

菇酱。

transformed the city’s dining landscape, paving the way for other international chefs to follow his lead and enter the market.

By the time the Michelin Guide launched its first regional guide for Hong Kong and Macau in 2009, the city had six Michelin-starred restaurants, including Robuchon a Galera with three to its name. By 2018, Macau’s total reached eighteen, including the relocated and rebranded threeMichelin-star Robuchon au Dôme at the Grand Lisboa Hotel.

In late October of 2018, Joël Robuchon’s culinary palace guard of Eric Bouchenoire (chef du laboratoire de creation et coordination ), Tomonori

料理，转变整座城市的餐饮样貌，也为其他 国际厨师铺路，引领他们进入澳门餐饮市场。

2009 年，米其林指南推出《米其林指 南香港澳门》 ，澳门有六家餐厅获得星级肯 。至 定， 其 中 便 包 括「Robuchon a Galera」

2018 年，澳门摘星的餐厅总数达到十八家， 其中包括在新葡京酒店中重新立址并命名的 。 米其林三星级餐厅 -「天巢法国餐厅」

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PRESENTED BY GRAND LISBOA HOTEL

LA LANGOUSTINE 淡水小龙虾云吞

Another of Robuchon’s early signature dishes from Jamin, this scampi ravioli embodies the chef’s culinary vision. It displays flawless finesse in balancing the aromas of land and sea between truffle and langoustine. Cooking the ravioli in court bouillon was the master’s open secret to preserving the delicate flavor of the shellfish. The ravioli is paired with braised green savoy cabbage and finished with a light foie gras emulsion. 此道招牌料理原创于「Jamin」餐厅，其中的龙虾 云吞体现了 Robuchon 对烹饪的看法。大厨完美地 平衡了小龙虾的大海鲜味与松露的陆地风味，然后 使用众所皆知的秘诀，即以法式肉汤烹煮云吞来锁 住小龙虾的细腻鲜味，再配以焖绿甘蓝及一点鹅肝

DAVID HARTUNG

酱，呈现令人难忘的满溢鲜味。

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REDDOG STUDIO

From left to right, Eric Bouchenoire, Chef du Laboratoire de Creation et Coordination; Julien Tongourian, Robuchon au Dôme Executive Chef; François Benot, Chef Patissier Conseil; and Tomonori Danzaki, Chef Conseil

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DAVID HARTUNG

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PRESENTED BY GRAND LISBOA HOTEL

“The only mission I give myself is to perpetuate his vision and philosophy in the restaurants. His legacy will continue with the team, “la grande famille” and me. 我唯一的使命是在餐厅中继续实现他的愿景及理念， 而他的遗志也将与我和团队长存。 ” ERIC BOUCHENOIRE

Danzaki (chef conseil ), and François Benot (chef p âtissier conseil ) joined with Robuchon au Dôme Executive Chef Julien Tongourian to present a gala dinner tribute to the master’s lasting legacy in Macau and across the wider world of fine dining.

The eight-course menu was carefully curated to lead guests on an exploration of the master’s endless finesse, with classics that highlight his insistence on high-quality seasonal products and iconic dishes that demonstrate his technical demands and relentless perfectionism. Coming full circle, two of the dishes that were featured at the celebration of Robuchon a Galera’s opening, Le Caviar de Sologne and La Langoustine, were selected to star in Robuchon au Dôme’s gala dinner tribute, “The Heritage of Joël Robuchon.”

“Mr. Robuchon’s favorite was his Le Caviar de Sologne,” says Bouchenoire. “It’s also mine, because it was the first dish I executed as garde-manger (pantry chef) at Jamin. At the time, every house was protective of their secrets, and this dish remained technically inaccessible to other chefs of my generation – ‘How,’ they wondered, ‘do you do the dots ?’ That’s why for me it remains a mythical dish.”

One Robuchon classic that had to wait for October’s gala dinner to make its debut in Macau was La Poularde de Bresse, a wondrous dish in which a French freerange chicken is poached in an aromatic broth while fully enclosed in a ballooned pig’s bladder. “Mr. Robuchon had always wished to serve la poularde de Bresse en vessie ,” says Bouchenoire, “but we had difficulty importing the bladder. Julien Tongourian was able to find a source, and that finally allowed us to put it on the menu. Mr. Robuchon would be proud.

“He, of course, is irreplaceable, but his cooking is immortal. My only mission is to perpetuate his vision and philosophy in the restaurants. His legacy will continue with the team – la grande famille – and with me. My last words to him were ‘reposez en paix, on est là ’ – ‘rest in peace, we are here.’”

子、创意兼实验主厨 Eric Bouchenoire，

Robuchon 嫡 传 弟 子、 厨 师 顾 问 Tomonori Danzaki， 甜 点 师 傅 顾 问 François Benot 与「天巢法国餐厅」的 行政总厨 Julien Tongourian 联手打造一 场晚宴，向 Robuchon 在澳门及各地「精 致餐饮」的贡献致上最高的敬意。 精心设计的八道菜式带领宾客一探 大师的高超厨艺，这些经典菜式呈现出 对高级时令食材的要求，招牌料理则展 现对技艺与完美的追求。在「Robuchon

a Galera」的开幕式中，鱼子酱伴椰菜 花奶油及海鲜冻和淡水小龙虾云吞两道 。 料理被选为「Robuchon 的毕生代表作」 「Robuchon 先生的最爱就 Eric 说 ： 是鱼子酱伴椰菜花奶油及海鲜冻，也是 我的最爱，因为那是我在餐厅『Jamin』 作冷盘厨师时所做的第一道料理。当时 这道料理的技术非常保密，其他同辈厨 师都无法知晓，他们都好奇到底如何制 作出盘中那一粒粒的美味，这也是为什 么 对 我 来 说， 它 仍 然 是 一 道 神 秘 的 料 理。 」 另一道十月才在澳门首度亮相的 经典菜式是法式传统煮鸡伴时菜及日 本 松 茸。 法 国 的 放 养 鸡 炖 煮 于 鲜 美 的 高 汤， 再 置 于 猪 肚 中 蒸 煮。Eric 说 ： 「Robuchon 先生一直都希望可以像这样 用猪肚烹调，可惜在进口猪肚上却窒碍 难行。 」最后，Julien 总算找到猪肚的进 口渠道，才得以将这道菜加入菜单中。 若 Robuchon 依然健在，一定会感到十 分欣慰。 「他独一无二，他的料理 Eric 说 ： 永垂不朽。我唯一的使命是在餐厅中继 续实现他的愿景及理念，而他的遗志也 将与我和团队长存。我对他的最后一句 话是『安息吧，我们都在这儿』 。 」

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FabriceVulin MasaTakayama KelvinAuYeung AlainDucasse ChanYanTak DavidKinch PierreHermĂŠ

PRESENTED BY MELCO RESORTS & ENTERTAINMENT

非凡演变

At City of Dreams on December 11, Melco Resorts & Entertainment, as Official Title Partner, hosts the Michelin Guide Hong Kong Macau 2019 Gala Dinner.

改 变 ... 进 化 ... 转 形 ...​ C H A N G E … evolution … 蜕变。 transformation … metamorphosis . It hap当优良进阶为卓越，当想像 pens when something good becomes something 超越界限、直达无垠之巅，非凡演变， extraordinary, when imagination goes beyond limita就在此刻展现。 tions to reach boundless heights. 十二月十一日晚上，七位大师级主 On the evening of December 11, seven master chefs, 厨，其中六位来自赫赫有名的米其林星 six of them from celebrated Michelin-starred restaurants, 级餐厅，将远道而来，云集澳门新濠天地。 will assemble for a remarkable collaboration at City of 活动的主题为「非凡演变」 ，除了 Dreams’ Grand Ballroom. 象 征 非 凡 演 变、 七 道 美 酒 相 伴 的 奢 华 Centered on the theme of “Metamorphosis,” the event 晚宴料理外，将邀请日本舞团 Fabulous will feature performances by Japanese dance group Fabulous Sisters 及香港歌手谢安琪到场演出，为晚 Sisters and Hong Kong singer Kay Tse in addition to the 宴锦上添花。 extravagant seven-course wine-pairing dinner menu. 这些厨艺顶尖的烹饪巨匠的演变之路 Each of the seven supremely accomplished chefs has 各不相同，但他们同样将自身生活经验， followed his own path, but all of them have transformed 转化为他们独一无二的烹饪技艺，以艺术的 their life experiences into unique culinary approaches that 型态，展现在料理上。 express all that they are as artists. 经历过的独特非凡演变过程被他们转化 Such personal metamorphosis has given them 成力量，将大自然纯净、纯粹的馈赠，用完 the power to take nature’s pure and simple gifts and, 美的厨艺糅合心中泉涌而出的创造力，巧手 through consummate skills and inner resources of 变成滋养身体、刺激感官又升华心灵的美食 creative energy, to transmute them into dishes that 料理。 can nourish our bodies, surprise our senses, and 在这个晚上，一众主厨的创新料理将 delight our spirits. What awaits is an evening 引领宾客度过一个充满丰富、新奇、魔 of diversion and discovery, of magic and 法的非凡演变之夜。 metamorphosis.

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PRESENTED BY MELCO RESORTS & ENTERTAINMENT

FABRICE VULIN 御 膳 房 T H E TA S T I N G R O O M

What’s the concept behind your dish?

料理背后的理念是什么？

In a few small spoonfuls, you have all the textures and flavors of the sea. On the bottom of the oyster shell we have a tartare of cooked shellfish – mussels, razor clams, periwinkles, and cockles – kept together with a purée of lemon zest. The poached oyster sits on top and we add seawater jelly and caviar.

让人浅尝几匙就能饱尝大海的质感和美

What’s the most difficult part?

料理最具挑战的部分是什么？

When you first see this dish it looks very simple, but there are a lot of components and it’s time-consuming to put it all together. The difficulty is in making it look so easy and effortless.

的食材元素却非常多，制作相当费时，

味。生蚝壳内，以贻贝、剃刀蛤蜊、玉 黍螺与蛤蜊制成的鲜贝他他为底，搭配 柠檬风味酱，水煮生蚝则置于其上，最 后再放上海水果冻及鱼子酱。

这道料理乍看之下十分简单，但是其中 因此困难之处便是要让成品看起来是一 道轻而易举的料理。

What does “metamorphosis” mean to you?

When you create any dish, there’s an element of metamorphosis, from your initial concept to the finished product. With this dish, it’s taking different things from the sea and remaking them into a dish that can be enjoyed by our guests.

对您而言，「非凡演变」的意义为何？ 在创作任何一道料理时，从原始概念到成 品的过程就是一场非凡演变。如同这道料 理一般，将汪洋大海的食材烹调成供宾客 享用的珍馐美馔。

Does the dish relate to an important “metamorphosis” in your career?

I think the metamorphosis of a chef happens every day. There’s no one particular turning point, because every day, every year, you’re trying to improve and do better than the day before.

这道料理是否代表了您职涯中某项重要变 化？ 我认为厨师的非凡演变与成长每天都在发 生，是连续性的，并不存在特别的转折点， 因为每一天、每一年都在努力比前一天变得

What do you hope diners will especially appreciate about your dish?

更好。

We’re exposed to so much good food these days made by talented chefs with exceptional ingredients that it’s easy to be impressed. The special part is when a dish makes you go “wow” and stays in your mind for days afterwards. I hope diners tonight will have that “wow” moment.

您希望宾客对您的料理有何特别评价？ 虽说如今享用由专业厨师以高级食材精心制 作的美馔佳肴，已唾手可得，但特别之处在于， 一道菜要能在你惊艳之余亦为之久久难忘。

DAVID HARTUNG

希望我的宾客在今晚都能感受那惊艳的时刻。

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高山雅氏

MASA TAKAYAMA MASA

What dish will you be preparing for the Michelin Gala?

您将为晚宴准备哪一道料理？

I’ll be preparing one of my signature dishes, Masa Toro Caviar.

我将会准备招牌菜之一的高山雅氏

What’s the concept behind it?

料理背后的理念是什么？

It prepares the guest for what’s to come. The interplay of the rich toro cut with the salty brine of the osetra caviar is very playful and indulgent on the tongue.

这道料理会为宾客揭开晚宴的序

式吞拿鱼拖罗配鱼子酱。

曲。鲜嫩的吞拿鱼片与咸鲜的鱼子 酱相互交融，在宾客口中迸出使人 意犹未尽的美味。

What’s the most difficult part to get right?

The toro tartare – it can’t be too fatty or too lean because it won’t play off the salty delicateness of the caviar if it’s not the perfect ratio.

料理最具挑战的部分为何？ 吞拿鱼他他的油花不能太多或太 少，若油花比例不对，便无法与鱼 子酱咸鲜且细致的口感相辅相成。

What does “metamorphosis” mean to you?

To me, metamorphosis isn’t a moment that just happens once in the life cycle. Metamorphosis is a way to live, to constantly change and become a different version of yourself. Sometimes it’s for the better and sometimes you might take a step back, but it’s an opportunity to always be learning along the way.

对您而言， 「非凡演变」的意义为 何？ 对我来说，成长演变不是生命中单 个转变的瞬间，而是一种生活方式， 不 断 成 长， 蜕 变 成 不 一 样 的 自 己。 尽管时而进步，时而退步，但这也是 一个终生学习的机会。

Does the dish relate to an important “metamorphosis” in your career?

The dish came to me when I had my restaurant in Beverly Hills. I’d made some mistakes before I felt I had a hit with Ginza Sushiko. I understood my customers and what they wanted to eat, and this dish very much represents my transition from a sushi chef in Japan to owning my own restaurant in America.

这道料理是否代表了您职涯中某项 重要变化？ 这道料理的灵感源自我的比弗利山庄 餐厅，料理诠释了我从日本寿司师傅 到美国餐厅所有人的转变。在「Ginza

Sushiko」餐厅取得成功前，我也曾犯 了些错误，但现在我已能理解我的宾客 以及他们所渴望的美食料理。

What do you hope diners will especially appreciate about your dish?

您希望宾客对您的料理有何特别评 价？ 复杂源于简单，单纯的食材以此概念设 计搭配，足以使宾客唇齿留香。 IMAGE COURTESY MASA

The complexity that comes from simplicity – pure ingredients combined in such a way that the flavors will linger with guests.

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欧阳文彥

KELVIN AU YEUNG 誉珑轩 J A D E D R A G O N

What’s the concept behind your dish?

Traditionally, it’s made with abalone sauce, but I’m using a fish soup base instead to create something new. Aside from the sweetness and freshness, there’s also a tiny bit of bitterness after the fish is cooked.

That and the dried mandarin peel gives it a unique flavor that is perfect in combination with the fish.

料理背后的理念是什么？ 传统会以鲍汁烹调，但我使用鱼汤 作为基底，为料理带来新风味。鱼 在煮熟后除了甜度和鲜度外，其实 还有些许苦味，但陈皮的香气能与 鱼肉完美结合，更添风味。

What’s the most difficult part to get right?

The freshness of the fish. Because it’s wild caught, we can’t stock up on it beforehand. It has to be caught in the days leading up to the dinner, and of course we need a large amount.

料理最具挑战的部分是什么？ 鱼的新鲜度。由于是野生捕捞，所 以 不 能 预 先 囤 货， 必 须 当 天 捕 捞、 当晚料理，所以我们需要大量的鱼

What does “metamorphosis” mean to you?

An evolution, a change within yourself and an effort to improve every day.

货。

对您而言， 「非凡演变」的意义为何？ 自我的进化。苟日新，日日新，又日新。

Does the dish relate to an important “metamorphosis” in your career?

I worked for many years under the guidance of Chef Tam Kwok Fung and have recently taken over from him. It’s the biggest turning point in my career, and a real metamorphosis in reaching what is now the pinnacle. This dish, which takes an ordinary ingredient and changes it into something more, reflects that change.

这道料理是否代表了您职涯中某项重 要变化？ 我在谭国锋师傅的指导下工作多年，最 近接替他的位置，是我职涯中最大的转 折点，也是到达巅峰的现实演变。这道 菜也反映这个变化，把原本的食材提升至 更高层次。

What do you hope diners will especially appreciate about your dish?

IMAGE COURTESY JADE DRAGON

I hope that tonight’s guests will take away an unforgettable memory of the taste of my dish. If they think of it again in a day or a week, then I’ve been successful.

您希望宾客对您的料理有何特别评价？ 希望今晚我的料理能为宾客创造一个难忘 回忆。若他们在一天或一周内仍对其念念 不忘，那么我就成功了。

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ALAIN DUCASSE A L A I N D U C A SS E A U P L A Z A AT H É N É E

What’s the concept behind your dish?

料理背后的理念是什么？

This dish is an alliance of sea and earth, the story of nature in its various forms.

这道料理是海陆双飨，诠释了自然界的

How is it prepared?

如何制作这道料理？

Blue lobster and potatoes are slowly simmered in a cookpot to express and concentrate the quintessence of their tastes. The truffle is grated before serving. When the cookpot is put on the table and the lid is opened, a delicious, mouth-watering aroma wafts out.

以文火慢熬蓝龙虾和马铃薯以炖出风味

多元性。

的精华，上桌前再洒上细磨松露，如此 一来，当打开炖锅盖时，才会香气四溢， 令人垂涎欲滴。

Does it contain any unusual combinations?

其中有用到什么特殊的食材组合吗 ？

The dish is an alliance of noble and humble produce. Whether it’s a humble potato or a precious truffle, produce always conveys a wealth of sentiments. Each element conjures up a terroir, a combination of soil and climate. Each one is the result of human effort in taming wild nature.

这道料理糅合了家常与高端的食材，无 论是常见的马铃薯还是珍贵的松露，都 带有丰富的感官享受，每样食材既融合 土壤与气候等风土条件，也是人们驯化自 然、辛勤耕耘的产物。

What does metamorphosis mean to you?

对您而言，「非凡演变」的意义为何？

Metamorphosis is at the heart of cooking, and cooking expresses the relation between humans and nature. Cooking metamorphoses wild nature into food, and domesticating nature is the prime foundation of cultures.

烹饪的核心概念是「变化」 ，是人类与自然 的互动关系。驯化自然也是人类文化的主要 基础，烹饪就是将自然界中的野性转化成餐 桌上的佳肴。

What was the most important turning point in your career as a chef?

在厨师生涯中最重要的转折点为何？

Undoubtedly when Prince Rainier III trusted me to head Le Louis XV, the restaurant of the Hôtel de Paris in Monaco. Inspired by the Riviera terroir and its magnificent produce, I developed a cuisine which is an upscale version of peasant food.

执 掌 位 于 巴 黎 酒 店 的「Le Louis XV」 餐 厅。

What makes this dish special to you?

这道料理有何特别之处？

It’s contemporary French cuisine that fits so well with the place and time of the dinner. Cooking is sending a message, it’s creating a special moment of harmony.

这是一道当代法国料理，十分适合晚宴的场

我曾获兰尼埃三世信赖并受指派前往摩纳哥， 受里维埃拉当地的风土条件和富饶的农产品 启发，创作出「高档的农人料理」 。无庸置疑， 这便是我职涯中最重要的转折点。

合与氛围，而这正是烹饪的内涵 - 创造和谐

DAVID HARTUNG

的特别时刻。

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陈恩德

CHAN YAN TAK

龙 景轩 LU N G K I N G H E E N

Why did you choose to make this particular dish?

为何选择这道料理？

A steamed fish dish is perhaps most emblematic of Cantonese cuisine – it’s food that’s shared on the family table.

在粤菜中，蒸鱼可说是最具代表性的 一道料理，是家家户户餐桌上的共 享佳肴。

How is it prepared?

Lotus leaf is placed at the bottom of the bamboo steamer, and two fish fillets are laid on top of it on a bed of vermicelli. The black bean sauce is drizzled over the fish, and it’s steamed for five minutes. Finally, spring onions and red chili slices are sprinkled on top.

如何制作这道料理？ 将荷叶放在蒸笼的底部，铺上粉丝 并将两片鱼柳放置其上，淋上豆豉 酱后蒸五分钟，最后再撒上青葱和 红椒丝。

What’s the most difficult part to get right?

Time management is always an art in steaming the fish – half a minute more or less can make a big difference. We want it to be silky, tender, and delicate. The sauce is a classic combination of black bean and Chinese mandarin, but the magic is getting the proportions of soy sauce and other ingredients right.

料理最具挑战的部分是什么？ 蒸鱼的烹调要诀在于时间控制，相差 半分钟效果也天差地别。我们要的是 口感滑溜、软嫩、细致，而酱汁则是 豆豉酱和柑橘汁混合的经典组合，关键 在于适当的调配比例。

Does it contain any unusual ingredients?

We’ve elevated the dish by using precious vegetables like cordyceps, which is known for anti-aging and beneficial-cholesterol effects.

我们会用一些珍贵的蔬食材料提升这道

What does “metamorphosis” mean to you?

功效的冬虫夏草。

其中有用到什么特殊食材吗？ 料理的格调，如具有抗衰老和有益胆固醇

In life, the only constant is change. Every time you adapt and make a breakthrough, you become a new you.

对您而言，「非凡演变」的意义为何？ 在生活中，变化是唯一的恒定状态。每当

What is the most important turning point in your career as a chef?

你顺应新境并有所突破，你就会焕然一新。

The award of three Michelin stars since 2008. That has definitely put Cantonese cuisine in the spotlight and attracted people from all around the world to learn more about the unique qualities of Chinese food.

在厨师生涯中最重要的转捩点为何？ 自餐厅 2008 年以来获得三颗米其林星星 后，粤菜成为瞩目的焦点，吸引世界各地

DAVID HARTUNG

的人们来一探中菜的特色风味。

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DAVID KINCH MANRESA

Why did you choose to make this particular dish?

为何选择这道料理？

These are shared Pacific Rim ingredients that we use at Manresa and that we hope will bring satisfaction to the large group of guests we’re serving.

我们选用在「Manresa」餐厅引进的环太平洋 客。

How is it prepared?

如何制作这道料理？

Kagoshima beef rib eye is grilled over charcoal. It’s sliced, then seasoned with beef fat, beef garum, and sea salt. The beef rests on homemade meat Marmite and a black truffle and fermented garlic purée. Savoy cabbage is sliced with the core intact and slowly roasted and caramelized with butter, thyme, and garlic until tender. It’s placed next to the beef, and a simple jus made from roasted beef rib bones pearled with beef fat is poured tableside to complete the dish.

鹿儿岛肉眼扒炭烧后切片，然后用牛肉脂肪、

区常见食材，希望能将这份满足感带给更多饕

牛肉酱和海盐调味，再放在自制马麦酱、黑松 露和蒜蓉上。卷心菜包留叶心后切成薄片，慢 慢烘烤后加入黄油、百里香和大蒜加溶至变 软，再放在牛肉旁。上桌时淋上以烤牛肋骨 制成的肉汁，当中的牛脂为料理抹上​​一 层珠 光色泽。

料理最具挑战的部分是什么？ What is the most difficult part to get right?

将牛肉煮得恰到好处并完美地呈现在客人面

Cooking the beef perfectly, then getting it in front of the guest perfectly as well – timing and execution.

前，换句话说，就是时机与动作的精准掌控。

对您而言，「非凡演变」的意义为何？ What does “metamorphosis” mean to you?

就是改变、进化与成长。重点是不要惧怕

Metamorphosis means to change, to evolve and grow. It’s important not to be afraid of these challenges but to embrace them.

这些挑战，而应该去拥抱它。

Does the dish relate to any important metamorphosis in your career?

这道料理是否代表了您职涯中某项重 要变化？ 这道菜是餐厅经历祝融而暂时歇业以后

It’s a dish that’s new to our menu after we were closed for some time because of a damaging fire. It signifies a new beginning.

的全新菜式－象征餐厅的新开始。

What was the most important turning point in your career?

学习如何管理人力，至今也仍持续努力学

Learning – and still learning – to manage people, to get them to share your vision and to encourage them to be the best they can be.

他们全力拼搏成就最好的自己。

在职涯中最重要的转捩点为何？

HELGE KIRCHBERGER PHOTOGRAPHY

习，使团队与我拥有相同的愿景，并鼓励

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PIERRE HERMÉ

What dish will you be preparing for the Michelin Gala dinner?

“From Hazelnut to Black Truffle,” a dessert made with soft sponge cake soaked in hazelnut syrup, hazelnut praline cream, hazelnut praline paste, whipped cream with hazelnut, and black truffle. It’s a really greedy moment.

您将为晚宴准备什么料理？ 我准备了朱古力松露。我将松软的海 绵蛋糕浸在榛果糖浆中，再以榛果仁 奶油、榛果仁酱、榛果鲜奶油及黑松 露层层包覆。这是一道让人沉醉的甜 品。

Why this particular dish?

为何选择这道料理？

I thought it was interesting to associate black Périgord truffle with hazelnut in a pastry, because it’s a very tasty combination.

我那时觉得在糕点中加入佩里戈尔 黑松露及榛果会非常新鲜有趣，因 为两者放在一起总是令人垂涎三尺。

What’s the concept behind it?

It’s a metamorphosis of hazelnut turning into truffle.

料理背后的理念是什么？

How is it prepared?

变。

它象征了榛果转化为松露的非凡演

We assemble carefully crafted elements and spray dark chocolate on it so that the dessert takes on the appearance of a truffle.

如何制作这道料理？ 将细心制作的材料一一组合，再喷上 黑巧克力，可使外观形似松露。

Where will you source the ingredients?

The hazelnut comes from the Piedmont and the black truffle from the Périgord.

食材来自什么地方？ 榛果来自皮埃蒙特，黑松露则来自佩里 戈尔。

What does “metamorphosis” mean to you?

For me, a metamorphosis is a transformation, and in this case, a buried treasure that turns from hazelnut into black truffle.

果就如埋藏的宝藏般，转化为黑松露。

How does the dish relate to a metamorphosis in your career?

这道料理如何连结到您职涯中经历的 变化？

This dish was an unusual exercise, because I researched its visual effect at the same time as the taste, and usually I’m mainly interested in taste.

研了甜品的视觉效果及滋味。一般来说，

What was your own most important metamorphosis?

人生中经历过最重要的演变时刻是？

The most important turning point in my career as a chef was when I realized that my job was not to provide only technical expertise but to make people feel a particular emotion.

厨师生涯中最重要的转折点，是当我意

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对您而言， 「非凡演变」的意义为何？ 我认为是一种转化，拿这道菜为例，榛

这道料理与我过往的作法不同，对此我钻 我比较着重于料理的美味。

艺，而是让品尝料理的客人感受到当中 的美好。

DAVID HARTUNG

识到这份工作并不在于展现极致的厨

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完美平衡

match point Hennessy X.O and the fresh, seasonal cuisine of two of Hong Kong’s Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurants make a winning combination

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P R E S E N T E D B Y H EFN E ANTEUSRS EY

Pan-fried Australian M9 Wagyu beef with wasabi soy sauce

DAVID HARTUNG

青芥末头抽煎澳洲M9和牛粒

YING JEE CLUB OFFERS a calm oasis in the frenetic hub of Hong Kong’s Central. The seriously cool setting from architect Steve Leung conveys elegant sophistication and makes an ideal backdrop for the refined cuisine of Chef Siu Hin Chi, who combines impeccable technique with meticulously sourced seasonal ingredients. Siu has worked at such Cantonese finedining icons as Michelin-starred T’ang Court and Duddell’s, and Ying Jee Club achieved a Michelin star within an incredible three months after opening.

While Siu’s dishes celebrate classic Cantonese cooking, they do so with a subtle modern flair that guarantees exciting dining and makes the most of the finest seasonal produce. His plating is elegant, but the star is always the food. “Plating should be artistic,” he notes, “but in Chinese cuisine, the dishes must be piping hot! We try to strike the right balance.”

Striking the right balance is also crucial in the matter of pairing fine food and Cognacs, and the chef finds that one accompaniment complements

「营致会馆」位于香港中环繁华的金融区，犹 如沙漠中的绿洲。别树一格的室内设计传达出 设计师梁志天心中的优雅与细腻，与行政总厨 萧显志将卓绝厨艺结合严选时令食材而成的精 致美馔相互辉映。在香港土生土长的萧师傅， 曾在「唐阁」及「都爹利会馆」等米其林粤菜 餐厅服务多年。去年「营致会馆」开幕，短短 三个月后便取得第一颗米其林星肯定。 萧师傅著重经典粤菜的烹调手法，并巧妙 地将现代风格注入当季食材。他讲究摆盘，但 食物本身的风采是永远的明星。他表示 ： 「摆 盘应具有艺术性，但中菜强调上桌时得冒着热 气！所以我们要在热度与摆盘中取得平衡，巧 手将佳肴呈现桌上。 」 CIRCLE OF TIME | TK |

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营致会馆

YING JEE CLUB

Executive Chef

Chilled sea whelk with jellyfish and caviar

Siu Hin Chi 行政总厨萧显志

his creations like no other: Hennessy X.O. Siu, in crisp chef’s whites, takes time out to explain why Hennessy’s premier Cognac is the ultimate match for so many of his signature dishes.

“To begin with,” he says, “my cold dish of premium jellyfish and traditional Chinese sea whelk is designed to whet the appetite. The jellyfish are caught in September and October, and now’s the season to enjoy their texture at its best. The robust flavors pair beautifully with the bold and powerful character of Hennessy X.O, especially when we top the dish with caviar.

“In preparing our lobster, we fry it slowly by a traditional method to make sure the temperature is precise. Locally sourced shallots and scallions, Hua Diao wine, and a special soy sauce are added, and the wok is covered to let the lobster absorb the flavors. Hennessy X.O has a deep complexity of pepper and ripe fruit that matches the multilayered flavors of the lobster, and it perfectly offsets the richness of the dish.

“Our top-quality Australian M9 beef is intensely flavorful and

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黑鱼子螺片海红叶

料理与酒品的搭配平衡也是另一个重点， 萧师傅发现只有轩尼诗 X.O 能担任他料理的最 佳配搭。对于轩尼诗顶级干邑能突围而出，与他 的料理完美互补的因由，身穿硬挺厨师服的萧师 傅特别抽空讲解。 萧师傅介绍 ： 「头盘中的顶级海蜇和传统海 螺能促进食欲，海蜇多在九至十月捞获，現在享 用最为鲜美且更具咬劲，很适合搭配刚劲馥郁的 轩尼诗 X.O 干邑，若能于上桌前放上一些鱼子 酱就更棒了。 」 「说到龙虾的料理过程，我们遵循古法细火 慢炸，以确保精准控温，加入当地种植的火葱及 青葱、花雕酒和特制酱油，接着盖上锅盖，让龙 虾吸收酱汁的精华。轩尼诗 X.O 的多层次丰富 口感配上龙虾的风味，烘托出料理的质感。 」 「我们的高品质澳洲 M9 牛肉，风味十足、 肥嫩多汁，绝非一般牛肉能比。取出肋眼部分，

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

meatier than most. We pan-fry the rib eye Western style to medium rare.

It’s cut into cubes and transferred to a wok with sesame, sugar, and two soy sauces. We finish with wasabi right at the end to retain the heat. I find that the contrasts of this dish balance wonderfully with Hennessy X.O’s spicy notes. The meat’s richness makes an intriguing complement to the roundness of Hennessy X.O. “We stuff our braised bamboo pith with crab coral and traditional Chinese enoki. These precious seasonal mushrooms, at their peak at this time of year, are cooked in a chicken and Yunnan ham broth brimming with umami. The dish’s delicate flavor is exquisitely enhanced by Hennessy X.O’s subtle sweet notes of flowers and ripe fruit.”

Over time, Chef Siu has discovered that Hennessy X.O makes a versatile match with a wide range of seasonal Chinese dishes, and he sees growing numbers of Ying Jee Club’s discerning diners ordering it with their meals. At the end of a long day, Siu enjoys putting his feet up, relaxing, and savoring the complex layers and palate-cooling sensation of Hennessy X.O over ice.

以西餐做法下锅香煎至三分熟，再切成方块状 放入炒锅，加入芝麻、糖和两种酱油调味。装 盘前放入芥末拌炒，增添些微呛辣味。这道菜 的中西元素和牛肉的甘味碰撞，也与轩尼诗

X.O 的复杂层次达到了美酒美食的完美搭配。」 「我们在竹笙内加入珊瑚蟹和道地的中式 金针菇。这种珍贵菇类此时正当造，放入云南 火腿高汤熬煮，鲜味满溢。料理的细致风味与 轩尼诗 X.O 特有的微妙香辣和蜜饯香气结合， 搭配得天衣无缝。 」 一路走来，萧师傅发现轩尼诗 X.O 与各 式当时得令的中菜都能产生意想不到的惊喜， 也发现越来越多「营致会馆」讲究品饮的饕 客选择这瓶干邑佐餐。萧师傅在经过一整天 的工作后，也喜欢倒上一杯加了冰块的轩尼 诗 X.O，细细品尝其中的无穷层次，享受清爽 凉快的感觉。 circle of time

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怡东轩

YEE TUNG HEEN

PRESENTED BY HENNESSY

← Traditional braised pork in braised pear with abalone, dried octopus 梨酿鳆鱆烤肉 ← →

caption

Steamed garoupa fillet with Matsutake and wild brown fungus

或

松茸野生云耳蒸星斑件

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

IN THE ELEGANT SURROUNDINGS

of Yee Tung Heen at The Excelsior, Hong Kong, Chef de Cuisine Yiu Bik Sun reminisces about his long career. As one of the recognized masters of a Cantonese cuisine that celebrates the seasons, he has continued to garner skills and acclaim throughout a culinary journey that has taken him from Shanghai to Beijing and Singapore.

Among many highlights, one stands out. In London in 2015, he had the honor to cook for President Xi Jinping of China.

“There was no Chinese chef then at Mandarin Oriental, London,” says Yiu, “so I and two colleagues were responsible for serving the president and his delegation.

It was a unique experience, and I got to know exactly what they like to eat.”

His concern with pleasing guests also characterizes Yiu’s menu pairing at Yee Tung Heen, where he thoughtfully considers the arc of the menu and how each dish can best celebrate seasonal produce and pair with the multifaceted character of Hennessy X.O. “The flavors of the dishes start softly and grow in intensity throughout the menu’s progression.”

A good starting point is his steamed garoupa fillet with matsutake mushrooms and wild brown fungus, both in season from October to December. “Our produce must be of the highest quality to retain the unique aromas of these special ingredients that are only briefly available.

First we prepare a broth by steaming the matsutakes. The autumnal aromas of the mushrooms suffuse the palate and integrate with those of Hennessy X.O. Its luxurious mellowness never overpowers the delicate fish, and the wonderful

在香港怡东酒店环境优雅的「怡东轩」 ，粤菜大师、总厨饶璧臣师傅，娓娓 道出他的厨师生涯。从上海、北京再到新加坡，他的厨艺越发炉火纯青并屡 获各界好评。 如此辉煌的历程中，有一段时日与众不同。2015 年，饶师傅有幸在伦 敦为中国国家主席习近平烹调美食。他回想道 ： 「当时伦敦文华东方酒店没 有中国厨师，于是我与两位同事便负责为国家主席及其代表团打理餐点。那 真是非常独特难忘的经验，而且我还能知道他们的喜好。 」 让顾客吃得开心是饶师傅的目标，因此「怡东轩」的菜单充满巧思， 菜单整体编排，以及由时令食材制成的餐点与轩尼诗 X.O 的搭配，都由他 细心打点。他表示： 「 口味的层次随着菜式的顺序推进而加强，先柔后重。 」 从 松 茸 野 生 云 耳 蒸 星 斑 件 开 始 是 个 不 错 的 选 择， 因 为 松 茸 和 云 耳 circle of time

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spiciness of Hennessy X.O makes a powerful impression when paired with seasonal seafood.”

One of the chef’s most celebrated creations is traditional braised pork in braised pears with abalone and dried octopus, which won Gold with Distinction in 2016 in the Best of the Best Culinary Awards. “We braise the pork and abalone and use that sauce for simmering the pears and infusing them with flavor,” explains Yiu. “The octopus also gains flavor from the pork fat. The very juicy pears help keep you hydrated and refreshed through our dry autumn and winter months. Diners first taste the pork, then the pear, then the South African abalone. The robust flavor profile of Hennessy X.O is great with the dish, and it has such wonderful balance. Its natural fruity notes harmonize beautifully with the pear, and the pork’s richness and aromatic sauce help to reveal X.O’s character.”

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在十至十二月时令最当。他说 ： 「我们用品质最顶尖、 最当季的食材入馔，完整呈现期间限定食材的独特 风味。首先准备以松茸清蒸的精华高汤，石斑鱼则 以低温储藏，确保新鲜与细致口感。一入口，松茸 的香气在口腔内萦绕不绝，与轩尼诗 X.O 干邑的蜜 饯芳香形成绝妙搭配。干邑的醇香，丝毫不掩鱼肉 的鲜甜。 」 另一道总厨名菜梨酿鳆鱆烤肉，曾获 2016 年香 港旅游发展局「美食之最大赏 - 至高荣誉金奖」的肯 定。饶师傅说明 ： 「先将猪肉与鲍鱼精炖，再用炖煮的 卤汁熬煮水梨，吸收其香气。章鱼肉同样吸收猪肉的 天然油脂。而适合干燥的秋冬季享用的水梨鲜嫩多汁， 生津滋润。客人先品尝细火慢炖的猪肉，接着是水梨， 最后才是南非鲍鱼。轩尼诗 X.O 浑厚的胡椒香气与这

PRESENTED BY HENNESSY

Braised whole canned abalone (8 heads) with rock rice and mushrooms

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

珍菌岩米烩8头汤鲍

Chef de Cuisine Yiu Bik Sun 总厨饶璧臣

Finally comes braised whole abalone with rock rice and mushrooms. “Rock rice is the king of rice. It grows in crevices in the pure air of the Himalayas – it’s impossible to grow it anywhere else. We use seasonal mushrooms from Japan and Yunnan, prepare a sauce with the abalone, and cook the rice in it. The flavors elevate the silky elegance of Hennessy X.O and allow its spicy notes to shine through.”

Hennessy X.O’s exceptionally balanced profile also makes it a favorite when Chef Yiu is relaxing at home. “When friends come over, we like it on the rocks, and sometimes I’ll cook a special dish to go with it. Hennessy X.O has such a legendary history, such a glowing reputation among connoisseurs. What I’ve recently noticed is that more and more younger diners in their twenties and thirties are discovering why.”

道菜创造出和谐的配搭，干邑的天然果香与水梨合而 为一，美妙不可言状。 」 「岩米是 最后是珍菌岩米烩 8 头汤鲍。他表示 ： 米中之王，只生长在纯净无污染的喜马拉雅山岩缝中， 在其他地方都无法生存。时令鲜美的日本及云南菇类 加上鲍鱼一同熬制酱汁，接着将米加入酱汁中炖煮。 浓醇香气扑鼻而来，配上一口轩尼诗 X.O，口感圆润 平衡，果香与胡椒香气于口中散发。 」 轩尼诗 X.O 优雅的味觉平衡，亦成为饶师傅在家 放松时享用的首选。他说 ： 「朋友到访时，我们会加点 冰块一起喝，有时也会做几道菜配酒。轩尼诗 X.O 拥 有传奇的悠久历史，在爱酒人士心中更是地位崇高。 最近我也观察到，许多二十到三十出头的年轻顾客， 也渐渐了解到这瓶干邑的独到之处。 」 circle of time

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PRESENTED BY SANDS RESORTS MACAO

纯正葡式美味

essentially portuguese Chef Henrique Sá Pessoa brings Chiado – and his very personal culinary style – to Sands Resorts Macao. 说 起 来 澳 门 的 缘 由，Henrique Sá

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「听到澳门我就一口 Pessoa 开心表示 ：

Henrique Sá Pessoa

答应了！在葡萄牙以外的地方开餐厅 一直是我的梦想，对我来说这真的是

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绝佳的好机会－两地已有密切的连结，

Salted cod à brás with slow cooked egg yolk, onion purée

真的没有比澳门更理想的地点了。 」

Henrique 说的正是他和澳门金沙 度假区共同打造、10 月才刚开幕的全 新美食据点「希雅度葡国餐厅」 。他在

葡式马介休伴慢煮 蛋黄及洋葱酱

葡 萄 牙 所 经 营 的 米 其 林 餐 厅「Alma」 人气旺盛，所在地就是与此餐厅同名、 位于里斯本的希雅度区。

Henrique 有「葡萄牙的杰米 · 奥

」美称，透过大受 利弗（Jamie Oliver） 欢迎的电视烹饪节目及烹饪书累积庞 大的人气。不过他谦虚解释道 ： 「上烹 饪节目真的也是误打误撞，2004 年刚 统过时。于是我希望能分享一些我的

Henrique Sá Pessoa.“It’s been a dream of mine to open a restaurant outside of Portugal for a long time. For me, it was the perfect opportunity – we already have that connection, and there couldn’t be a more perfect place.”

The celebrity chef, who operates the hugely successful Michelin-starred Alma in the Chiado district of Lisbon, is of course speaking of his newest venture, Chiado, opened in October as a collaboration with Sands Resorts Macao.

所知所学，带来一些不同的东西。 」

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Henrique 和许多大厨的成长历程 不同，不是从小看着父母或祖父母做 菜长大，他说 ： 「我最开始想成为 NBA 球星！那是我小时候的梦想，可惜我 不够高，这个梦注定无法实现。 」他 16 岁开始做菜，不过纯粹出于生活所需。 「我的父母当时离婚，整日忙于工作，

DAVID HARTUNG, REDDOG STUDIO

回国的时候，看到的烹饪节目都很传 “I JUMPED AT THE CHANCE to come to Macau,” says

PRESENTED BY SANDS RESORTS MACAO

“In the end, that’s what you strive for – to give those moments to someone and make them feel special. 这是我们最终追求的目标－为客人创造属于他们的专属时刻，带来独一无二的体验。 ”

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← Tuna tataki with vegetable escabeche and tomato tartare 炙烧金枪鱼片配腌制蔬菜和番茄鞑靼酱

DAVID HARTUNG, REDDOG STUDIO

Sometimes described as the Jamie Oliver of Portugal, Sá Pessoa reached celebrity-chef status through his string of successful TV cooking shows and cookbooks. “The shows were kind of an accident,” he says. “When I came home in 2004, every cooking show I saw was very traditional and outdated. I thought if I could share what I know – my ideas and things I’d learned – it could be something different.”

Unlike a lot of chefs, Sá Pessoa didn’t grow up watching his parents or grandparents cook. “I wanted to be an NBA player!” he says. “It was my dream as a kid, but obviously, with my height, it was never going to happen.” He began cooking at age sixteen, purely out of necessity. “My parents were divorced and often at work, so I had to learn to make my own dinner,” he says. “My hobby turned into an interest, which turned into serious consideration that maybe I could make a career out of it.” The first dish he mastered, spaghetti bolognaise, was soon legendary among his family and friends. “I became the designated cook.”

Sá Pessoa describes his cuisine as contemporary Portuguese with subtle international hints inspired by his years of working in Australia, Asia, and the UK. “I like to incorporate ginger, lemongrass, and chili,” he says. “I don’t think my cooking is fusion, but I’m always including different ingredients. I’m not rigid about it, but if I see something I like, I’ll put it in as long as it makes sense to me.”

Watching guests’ reactions as they experience his food brings immense pleasure and gratification to Sá Pessoa. “We have the power to create an impact ,” he says. “We’re not gods, or magicians, or artists – although there’s something of these elements in our profession. I just see myself as a cook. But we

我得学会煮自己的晚餐。后来烹饪 成为了兴趣，我甚至认真考虑是否 能以此为业。 」他大功初成的第一 道菜－肉酱意大利面－家人朋友尝 过之后无不赞不绝口。 「自此之后， 我是大家的指定厨师。 」

Henrique 形 容 自 己 的 料 理 风 格是当代葡式加上一点异国风味， 这与他曾辗转澳洲、亚洲及英国历 练的经验有关。 「姜、柠檬草及辣 椒都是我喜欢运用的材料，我不特 别觉得自己走的是融合风，只是喜 欢加入不同的食材。一切都是可以 变通的，碰到喜欢的东西，可行的 话我都会试着入菜。 」 看到客人吃完菜露出惊艳的神 情，每每让他感到莫大的喜悦及满 足。他形容 ： 「我们有『撼动』人 心的力量。我们不是神、魔术师或 艺术家，虽然说做菜也多少有些类 似的元素。我就是个平凡的厨师， 但我们的确有能力，也是我们最终 追求的目标所在－为客人创造属于 他们的专属时刻，带来独一无二的 体验。 」 他目前无法时刻待在澳门，但 餐厅另有高人打理，让他觉得非常 放心。他口中厨艺卓越的厨师便是 主厨 Dario Santos，他讲起两人渊 circle of time

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PRESENTED BY SANDS RESORTS MACAO

→ Crispy vanilla parcels with raspberry coulis 香脆奶油酥配覆盆子果酱

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源： 「Dario 离开厨艺学校后就到我的 餐厅工作，当我的左右手好长一段时 间了， 对我的喜好了若指掌。做菜的话， 他和我一样，血液中自然流有烹饪的 DNA，也是他一直以来习惯做菜的方

式，要改也改不了。 」 曾经在金融风暴肆虐时开设首间 餐厅，与澳门金沙度假区一起开新餐 厅对 Henrique 来说心里没什么负担。 「我一向走独资个人经营路线，但不讳 言对于做菜的专注力会有所影响，特 别是需要发挥创意的时刻。经营的压 力有时让人喘不过气来，营运不顺时 更是如此，那种倍感挫折的时候会特 别想放下锅铲、逃离厨房。但目前『希 雅度葡国餐厅』的模式让我不禁觉得 －做菜真是件令人享受的事！」

DAVID HARTUNG, REDDOG STUDIO

do have this ability, and in the end, that’s what you strive for – to give those moments to someone and make them feel special.”

Even though he can’t be in Macau all the time, the chef says he feels safe in the knowledge that the restaurant is in highly talented hands: “Dario came to me after leaving culinary school,” says Sá Pessoa of Head Chef Dario Santos. “He’s been with me a long time and he knows what I like and don’t like. In terms of cooking, his DNA is the same as mine, and he doesn’t know how to do it any other way.”

After having opened his first restaurant at the height of the financial crisis, Sá Pessoa feels more at ease about his new venture with Sands Resorts Macao. “I’ve been a sole owner, and I think it takes away from you as a chef, particularly in terms of creativity,” he says. “The pressure can asphyxiate you a little bit, especially when the restaurant goes through tough times. You tend to want to leave the kitchen more and not cook, because you get frustrated. But this! – it’s a joy to cook like this.”

热情与优雅

embers and elegance

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DAVID HARTUNG

With two of its most distinctive restaurants, MGM offers Macau the ultimate grill experience and sophisticated French flair.

PRESENTED BY MGM

Spanish Carabinero prawn flambéed in sake, asparagus, yuzu butter 清酒烧西班牙大红虾、芦笋、香柚牛油

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PRESENTED BY MGM

GRILL 58 盛焰 Director ​ of Culinary​ 厨务总监 ​ Geoffrey Simmons

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AS SOON AS ONE ENTERS the stylish surroundings of Grill 58, the

一踏入「盛焰」时尚优雅的环境，目光便不自觉移

eyes are drawn to the dazzling sight of the Spectacle, MGM COTAI’s extraordinary theater of oversize LED screens, which the restaurant overlooks. Then the interior’s more intimate details begin to capture attention: a tray from which guests are offered their choice of finely crafted steak knives from around the globe, a lush mini-garden of herbs, spices, and a lemon tree. But most conspicuous are the sizzling grills that give the restaurant its name and have built its stellar reputation.

One is fired with glowing wood embers to bring out each cut’s succulent best, another is an authentic Japanese teppanyaki plate.

Both are overseen by a talented team of chefs working under the skilled eye of one of the culinary world’s masters, Mauro Colagreco.

Argentinian by birth, Chef Colagreco has won two Michelin stars and a third-place ranking on the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants for Mirazur, his restaurant in Menton, France. He is known for dishes driven by superlative-quality fresh ingredients, which at Grill 58 include the finest meats personally sourced from the world’s best ranchers by MGM’s master butcher.

Overseeing the restaurant teams at both MGM MACAU and MGM COTAI since 2015 is Director of Culinary Geoffrey Simmons, an affable Australian who is quick to point out that Grill 58 goes far beyond serious diners’ expectations. “Grill 58 is a celebration of the grill experience,” he says. “Yes, steak is a big part of it, but there’s much more to it than simply a char-grill steakhouse. You also come

向光彩夺目的视博广场，由餐厅可俯瞰这个美狮美

TK | circle of time

高梅内首屈一指的 LED 超大萤幕剧院。客人的目光 很快就被餐厅别出心裁的内装细节吸引 ：别致的小 托盘，让饕客从来自世界各地的精致牛排刀中，选 出最喜爱的一把 ；葱郁的小花园种满了香草、香料 与柠檬树。但最耀眼的，便要数那个让餐厅名符其 实、声名远播的炙热烤炉了。 其中一座烤炉使用赤红的木炭，逼出每一块鲜 肉的甜美肉汁，另一座则为客人带来道地的日式铁 板烧。两座皆由专业的厨师团队负责，其背后的监 督重任，则交由世界级厨艺大师 Mauro Colagreco。 出生于阿根廷的 Mauro 拥有两颗米其林星星， 旗下位于法国芒通的「Mirazur」餐厅更在全球五十 最佳餐厅排行榜中，高踞第三位。坚持只用最顶尖 的食材烹饪，是他成名的关键，而「盛焰」所提供 的便是经美高梅肉品大师精挑细选，来自首屈一指 牧场的顶尖肉品。 自 2015 年 起， 厨 务 总 监 Geoffrey Simmons 就负责澳门美高梅及美狮美高梅厨师团队的督导工 作。澳洲籍总监和蔼可亲， 见面不久便提到「盛焰」 的美食水准，已远远超出饕客的期待。他说 ： 「 『盛 焰』成就了烧烤美食体验的最佳颂赞。没错，牛排 确实是餐厅的核心之一，但这里可不单只是一间炭 烤牛排馆。来『盛焰』的客人，绝大部分亦是被这

Selected grilled prime cuts

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

精选炭烤肉类

to Grill 58 for the views, the four-thousand-bottle wine cellar, the teppanyaki, the sumptuous private dining rooms, and – above everything – the brilliant touch of Mauro Colagreco.

“He’s really a phenomenal guy and the best word to describe him is collaborative . He’s very open, giving and seeking opinions and bouncing things back and forth. He’s product-based, so the freshness of his ingredients and presentation comes through in every dish, whether ordering à la carte or sharing. He’s the critical part of this concept and has invested completely in driving the evolution of Grill 58 – even the name, which refers to the perfect temperature for steak.”

Grill 58’s celebrated beef includes selected cuts like the tomahawk, dry-aged for twenty days. Simmons points out that dry-aging was once used merely as a method of preserving meat. “Today,” he says, “it’s used to impart greater flavor and tenderness. We dry-age a number of cuts, including our côte de boeuf, which is grass-fed and has a totally distinctive flavor palette.”

Simmons is equally enthusiastic about another of Colagreco’s dishes, this one straight from the sea: “Mauro’s new tuna dish from the teppanyaki is about the nicest thing you can put in your mouth – cubed toro, seared and perfectly cooked medium rare, with ponzu sauce and fresh herbs. There’s a natural acidity that beautifully balances the fat.”

Another seafood dish designed for slow savoring is the chef’s decadent brioche cooked in butter and finished with uni: “It’s full of flavor and showcases the product’s absolute freshness and quality.”

里的美景、收藏了四千瓶酒的酒窖、铁板烧、豪 华私人包厢所吸引，当然还有最重要的，Mauro

Colagreco 主厨的精致佳肴。」 「他真的是一个非常鲜明出众的人，最好的 形容词应该是『爱好合作』 。他的心胸非常宽大， 视批评意见如宝，也乐于反覆尝试。他也是个用 成品说话的人，所以每一道菜，不论单点或是套 餐，所用的食材新鲜度、摆盘精致度都绝不马虎。

Mauro 是整个合作氛围的核心，一心想着让『盛 ， 焰』进化蜕变， 就连餐厅英文名『Grill 58』的『58』 都代表了烹调牛排最完美的温度。 」 「 盛 焰 」 的 招 牌 牛 排， 包 含 了 如 干 式 熟 成 二十天的战斧牛排等各种部位。Geoffrey 提到干 式熟成原本只是一种保存肉品的方法。他说 ： 「这 方法如今则用来赋予肉品更丰富的滋味和更柔嫩 的口感。不只有战斧牛排经过干式熟成，草饲牛 肋排也熟成出截然不同的风味。 」

Geoffrey 对 Mauro 的 另 一 道 料 理 也 非 常 狂 热，不过这次主角换成生猛海鲜 ： 「Mauro 的新鲔 鱼铁板料理，大概是世上最美好的食物。将切块 的黑鲔鱼腩香煎至三分熟，淋上柑橘酱再放上新 鲜香草。天然的酸味美妙地中和了鱼肉的油脂。 」 另一道专门让人细细品尝的海鲜料理是主厨的海 「入口便能尝到极丰富的香气，展 胆佐法式甜包 ： 现绝对的新鲜和品质。 」 circle of time

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PRESENTED BY MGM

Steak tartare with onions,​ capers, mustard and egg yolk 生牛肉他他、洋蔥、酸豆、芥末及蛋黃 Aux Beaux Arts special mussels 宝雅座秘制青口

AUX BEAUX ARTS 宝雅座

elegant brasserie-style interiors and superb menu of French favorites transport guests back to the look and feel of 1930s Paris.

The ocean’s bounty is on lavish display at Aux Beaux Arts’s live seafood counter, where a skillful team is kept busy shucking oysters and shelling prawns. A top favorite on the menu since opening is the shrimp cocktail salad. While simple-sounding, its distinctive avocado-and-brandy cocktail sauce sets it apart.

Classic fruits de mer cold platters are heaped with the finest quality fresh crabs, oysters, lobsters, mussels, and more from the coasts of France and beyond. The seafood flambé is pure dining entertainment that’s designed to be shared. “In the center of the table,” explains Director of Culinary Geoffrey Simmons, “there’s a large copper pan with a luxurious array of Boston lobster, Alaskan crab legs, sea prawns, mussels, and scallops that we dramatically flame with Cognac – it’s tableside theater. We also prepare the iconic crêpes suzette flambé, which really typifies what Aux Beaux Arts is all about – a refined brasserie ambience, warm service, and convivial interaction with our guests.”

No authentically French restaurant is complete, of course, without a world-class wine list, and Aux Beaux Arts’s is truly extraordinary. In fact, Wine Spectator , the prestigious magazine for serious oenophiles, conferred on it their highest recognition, naming Aux Beaux Arts one of only eighty-eight establishments in the world to have received the coveted “three glass” Grand Award. The wine experience at Aux Beaux Arts is

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

A FEW MILES NORTH of MGM COTAI is MGM MACAU, home to Aux Beaux Arts. Its

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Seafood flambé 焰烧海鲜

PRESENTED BY MGM

Wine cellar at Aux Beaux Arts 「宝雅座」酒窖

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

interactive as well: not only can guests step into the acclaimed cellar with its collection of more than ten thousand labels, they can also reserve it for private parties and events.

It’s no surprise that such a vast cellar boasts a number of wines and spirits of great rarity and renown, such as the Croizet 1858 Cuvée Léonie. The world’s most expensive Cognac, a bottle of which sold for a million yuan in Shanghai in 2011, it was crafted with Croizet’s oldest and most precious eaux-de-vie. This legendary spirit is exclusively available at MGM MACAU. Other classic labels in an inventory admired by true connoisseurs include Henri Jayer, Coche Dury, and such Bordeaux premier cru wines as Château Latour, Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Margaux, and Château Haut-Brion.

Simmons notes a number of enhancements that have been made since ABA’s opening: “We’ve changed slightly in presentation and added more sharing items to the menu. We’ve also given guests wider options that aren’t limited to three-course meal structures and created appealing new menu configurations that offer diners Aux Beaux Arts’ select recommendations.”

美狮美高梅往北几英里就能看到澳门美高梅， 「宝雅座」便位居其中。 优雅的酒馆风装潢和华丽的法式精选料理，让饕客仿佛置身 1930 年代的巴黎。 「宝雅座」的海鲜吧台上，可以看到满满一桌豪华的海中珍宝，厨师正熟 练地将生蚝及明虾去壳。从开业至今，人气最高的料理便是鲜虾沙律。虽然 听起来有些简单，内含的牛油果及干邑鸡尾酒酱却使其质朴而不凡。 经典的海鲜冷盘盛装著最高级的新鲜螃蟹、生蚝、龙虾、青口及其他 来自法国海岸的海洋美味。焰烧海鲜是亲友共享的最佳娱乐美食。厨务总监 「餐桌中央摆放着一个铜锅，锅内有各种极致奢华 Geoffrey Simmons 说道 ： 的海鲜，包含波士顿龙虾、阿拉斯加蟹脚、海虾、青口和带子，厨师用干邑 白兰地烧出熊熊烈火，极富戏剧性，可说是餐桌上的剧院。我们也供应标志 性的法式火焰班戟，代表了『宝雅座』的核心价值，也就是典雅酒馆气息、 暖心的服务和欢乐的主客互动。 」 当然，作为道地的法式餐厅，绝不能没有世界级的酒单，而「宝雅座」 的酒单确实别出心裁。事实上，享誉盛名、酒痴最爱的《Wine Spectator》 国际酒评杂志便给予「宝雅座」最高评价，将「宝雅座」列为全球仅有的 八十八家取得「三杯奖」头衔的其中一家餐厅。在「宝雅座」品酒也非常具 互动性 ：顾客不仅可以走进广受好评的酒窖参观一万瓶以上的酒藏，也能预 定窖内空间供私人派对或各种活动使用。 如此庞大的酒品收藏，肯定少不了各式稀有名酒，例如 Croizet 1858 Cuvée Léonie。 这 瓶 世 界 上 最 昂 贵 的 干 邑 白 兰 地，2011 年 在 上 海 以 每 瓶 一百万人民币售出， 采用 Croizet 葡萄园最古老珍贵的生命之水（eaux-de-vie） 制作。这瓶传说中的酒只在澳门美高梅独家贩卖。 其他深受美酒鉴赏家喜爱的美酒还包括 Henri Jayer、Coche Dury 和波 尔 多 特 级 庄 园 产 品 如 Château Latour、Château Lafite Rothschild、Château

Margaux 及 Château Haut-Brion。 「我们调整了料理 Geoffrey 也提到自「宝雅座」开业以来所做的改进 ： 的摆盘，也加入了新菜式，除了常见的三道菜套餐，客人还能选择其他能一 起分享的食物。我们更重整了菜单配置，让顾客能一眼掌握『宝雅座』的推 荐料理。 」 circle of time

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甜点要领

ingredients first

Andy Yeung

PRESENTED BY CANDIA PROFESSIONAL

DAVID HARTUNG ( 7)

With Candia premium cream and butter, one of Hong Kong’s top pastry chefs scales the heights of a dessert classic.

“WH E N I T CO M E S TO MAK I N G D E SS E R T S,” declares Andy

「说到制作甜点，最重要的其实不是技术。 」香港

Yeung, “skills are actually not the most important thing.” The seasoned pastry chef of JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong has learned that the primary consideration is always the quality of what goes into them.

Which, of course, is not to say that Yeung’s skills are anything short of remarkable. The chef got his start in the kitchen of his father’s restaurant, where he discovered his aptitude and began indulging his passion for sweet treats. “I realized that desserts were fun ,” he says. With the experience of fifteen years, Yeung is now having lots of it as the man in charge of producing an endless array of delectable confections for the hotel’s eight restaurants and all of its special events.

Yeung says he finds inspiration in everything from books and magazines to travel. His imaginative take on the Mont Blanc – that iconic chestnut-flavored dessert with a whipped-cream summit, named for its resemblance to the Alpine peak – came out of a desire to revisit an old favorite. “I wanted to do something special, to add exciting elements to a classic,” he says.

In his variation, the chef opts for Candia Professional Whipping Cream and Candia Unsalted Butter. “Candia cream has the freshest, sweetest aroma,” he says, “along with exceptional volume and stability when whipped.” So impressed was Yeung with the cream’s distinctive quality that he tweaked the recipe to bring out all of its delicate flavor nuances. And the pure taste and silky richness of Candia butter, he’s discovered, shine through in the Mont Blanc’s sumptuous vanilla coconut cream. “In dessert-making,” says Yeung, “when your components are the best, each flavor and texture can reach its ultimate level.”

JW 万豪酒店糕点师傅 Andy Yeung 说。经验老道

的 Andy 十分清楚，制作甜点的首要考量永远都是 食材的品质。 话虽如此，Andy 的技术可一点都不含糊。他 最初在父亲的厨房工作，发掘了自己的天赋，于是 便倾全力钻研他热爱的甜点。他说 ： 「我发现做甜 点很好玩。 」Andy 浸淫其中已长达十五年，如今酒 店八家餐厅与所有特別庆典所需的美味甜点，全出 自他的巧手。

Andy 说，不论是看书、杂志或去旅游，任何 事物都能成为他的灵感来源。他的经典之作 – 白朗 峰，是一道栗子口味、用打发奶油塑成山巅形状的 甜点，因形似阿尔卑斯山最高峰而命名，反映了他 向往重返心爱之地的渴望。他表示 ： 「我想做些特 别的甜点，在传统里加入新潮的元素。 」

Andy 制 作 甜 点 时， 选 择 的 是 Candia Professional 稀奶油和 Candia Professional 无盐黄 油。他说 ： 「Candia Professional 稀奶油散发最新 鲜香甜的香气，打发时的量和稳定度都很足够。 」

Candia Professional 稀奶油的高品质让 Andy 折服 不已，他甚至稍稍修改了食谱，只为更突显其细 腻的风味。 而 Candia Professional 无盐牛油的纯 净、滑顺、醇厚，如耀眼阳光般从白朗峰奢华的 「做 香草椰子奶油里渗透出来。正如 Andy 所说 ： 甜点时，只要食材是最好的，每一种风味、质地 都能展现到极致。 」 CIRCLE OF TIME | TK |

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PRESENTED BY CANDIA PROFESSIONAL

MONT BLANC

白朗峰

MERINGUE

BERRY CONFIT

1 g gelatin 48 g Candia Professional Whipping Cream 20 g egg yolk 100 g sugar 80 g mascarpone 80 g roasted chestnut paste (part 1) 150 g roasted chestnut paste (part 2)

120 g egg whites 120 g icing sugar 120 g sugar 50 g cocoa butter

20 g sugar 5 g pectin NH 9 g cornstarch 350 g IQF mixed berries 50 g cherry fruit brandy 35 g invert sugar 135 g cassis purée

1 lemon

1. Whip egg yolk with sugar.

2. Scald the cream and pour over egg yolk mixture.

3. Cook to 83°C. 4. Soften gelatin in water, mix well with chestnut paste (part 1) and mascarpone, and refrigerate the mixture.

5. Combine 150 g of refrigerated mixture with chestnut paste (part 2) and pipe onto a tray with a vermicelli tip.

1. Preheat oven to 90°C. 2. Whip egg whites at maximum speed with electric mixer until foamy.

3. Gradually add icing sugar and mix for 2 minutes.

4. Fold in sugar with a spatula.

5. Pipe the meringue mixture over a domeshaped mold on a silicone baking mat.

6. Bake 2 hours.

7. Coat the interior of baked meringue shell with cocoa butter and keep in airtight container.

1. Premix sugar, pectin, and cornstarch.

2. Flambé half of berries with cherry fruit brandy.

3. Add invert sugar and cassis purée.

4. Stir in sugar-pectincornstarch mixture and bring to a boil.

5. Add second half of berries to mixture.

6. Cool to room temperature.

7. Zest and juice lemon into mixture and refrigerate.

VANILLA COCONUT CREAM

CHANTILLY CREAM

375 g coconut purée

1 vanilla bean 75 g egg yolk 65 g sugar 30 g custard powder 15 g Candia Unsalted Butter 28 g gelatin mass 175 g Candia Professional Whipping Cream, whipped to soft peaks

125 g Candia Professional Whipping Cream 75 g mascarpone 25 g icing sugar

1. Combine in a saucepan coconut purée, vanilla bean, egg yolk, sugar, and custard powder.

2. Bring to a boil, add butter, and pour mixture on a tray.

3. Cover with plastic wrap and allow to cool.

4. Beat cooled cream until smooth.

5. Add softened gelatin and fold in whipped cream.

6. Place mixture in mold to set.

Whisk ingredients into soft peaks and use immediately.

ASSEMBLY 1. Cut piped marron cream with round cutter as base of Mont Blanc.

2. Fill meringue shell with berry confit and place on base.

3. Put unmolded vanilla coconut cream atop meringue.

4. Pipe Chantilly cream around coconut cream.

栗子奶油

蛋白霜

糖渍莓果

香草椰子奶油

香缇奶油

1克 吉利丁 48克 Candia Professional 稀奶油 20克 蛋黄 100克 糖 80克 马斯卡彭奶酪 80克 烤栗子泥（第一部分） 150克 烤栗子泥（第二部分）

120克 120克 120克 50克

20克 5克 9克 350克 50克 35克 135克 1颗

375克 1条 75克 65克 30克 15克

125克 Candia Professional 稀奶油 75克 马斯卡彭奶酪 25克 糖粉

1. 将蛋黄与糖打发 2. 煮沸稀奶油，与上步骤 的成品混合 3. 煮至83°C 4. 将吉利丁放在水中软 化，与栗子泥（第一部 分）和马斯卡彭奶酪搅 拌均匀，放入冰箱冷藏 5. 将上步骤的150克成品​ 与栗子泥（第二部分） 混合，用挤花嘴挤在 烤盘上

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蛋白 糖粉 糖 可可脂

1. 烤箱预热到90°C 2. 用电动搅拌机以最高速 度搅拌蛋白直到起泡 3. 缓慢加进糖粉，搅拌两 分钟 4. 用抹刀加糖翻搅均匀 5. 在矽胶烤盘烘焙垫上摆 放半球型模具，在模具 上挤满上步骤的蛋白霜 6. 烘烤两小时 7. 在烤好的蛋白霜壳内涂 一层可可脂，放进密封 容器备用

糖 NH果胶粉 玉米粉 冷冻杂莓果粒 樱桃白兰地 转化糖浆 黑醋栗果泥 柠檬

1. 预先混合糖、果胶粉、 玉米粉 2. 在一半的莓果淋上樱桃 白兰地并点火炙烧 3. 加入转化糖浆与黑醋栗 果泥 4. 与预先混合的糖、果胶 粉、玉米粉一起搅拌并 煮至沸腾 5. 加入另一半莓果 6. 冷却至室温 7. 加入柠檬皮与柠檬汁后 冷藏

椰子泥 香草荚 蛋黄 糖 卡士达粉 Candia Professional 无盐黄油 28克 吉利丁块 175克 Candia Professional 稀奶油打发至松软尖状

1. 在平底锅里加入椰子 泥、香草荚、蛋黄、 糖、卡士达粉搅拌 2. 煮至沸腾后加入黄油， 倒至烤盘上 3. 用保鲜膜覆盖冷却 4. 搅拌冷却的奶油直至滑 顺 5. 加入软化的吉利丁，​ 翻搅进打发的奶油里 6. 倒入模具里静置

将材料快速搅打成最松软 后马上使用

组合 1. 用圆形印模切出挤好的 栗子奶油作为白朗峰的 底座 2. 在蛋白霜壳里填满糖渍 莓果，置于底座上 3. 将未成形的香草椰子奶 油放在蛋白霜上 4. 在椰子奶油周围挤上香 缇奶油

DAVID HARTUNG (5)

MARRON CREAM

PRESENTED BY THE P OTTINGER HONG KONG

新潮复古圣诞节

new-fashioned christmas A chef with a background in design brings modern visual allure to Italian holiday specialties. 圣诞夜大餐，怎样才能兼顾传统习俗，又散发出吸引香港时下年轻族群 的时尚感呢？「Gradini 意大利餐厅」位于香港中环 • 石板街酒店，才华 洋溢的餐厅行政总厨 Cano Chan 深得个中奥妙。 「我们想尽办法发挥创意，让那些走在潮流前端的人眼 Cano 表示 ： 前一亮。 」他所指的那些走在潮流前端的人是属于 Instagram 世代，坚持 「相机先吃」的年轻人，也是「Gradini」的主要顾客群。这股「相机先吃」 的热潮启发了之前担任平面设计师的 Cano，创作了三道不仅美味正宗， 造型摆盘更是诱人的菜式。

Scampi, Smoked Cauliflower Puree, ​ Three Models Caviar​ 纽西兰海螯虾, 烟熏椰菜花蓉，鱼子酱

HOW DO YOU CREATE a Christmas Eve menu with a traditionally festive theme but also a contemporary vibe that will appeal to Hong Kong’s hip young crowd?

The solution comes from the talented Cano Chan, executive chef of the elegant Gradini Ristorante E Bar Italiano at The Pottinger Hong Kong.

“We try to think of fresh new ways to wow our most with-it guests,” says Chan, referring to the substantial segment of Gradini’s clientele that is part of the Instagram generation, whose motto seems to be “we eat first with our cameras.”

The ongoing trend inspired the former graphic designer to come up with three unique dishes that place equal emphasis on authentic flavors and arresting presentation.

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DAVID HARTUNG (3)

Cano Chan

Christmas Crystal (Apricot Mousse, Crispy Sponge Cake, Pistachio Crust) 圣诞水晶球－杏桃慕斯，脆脆海绵蛋糕，开心果

Serving as a light prelude is his starter of New Zealand–sourced scampi. The poached shellfish are seasoned with sea salt and olive oil and served with smoked cauliflower purée and caviar, which, says Chan, add multiple savory layers of flavor to the dish.

While incorporating modern elements, Chan makes sure that his creations stay true to the fundamentals of classic Italian cuisine. This is evident in his slow-baked Tasmania lamb loin wrapped with Prosciutto di San Daniele and served with stuffing and sauce. “It’s much like a beef Wellington – which isn’t Italian – but for Christmas, we wanted to do something that’s widely associated with the day.” The stuffing comes from Italian Chef Giovanni Greggio who worked with Gradini before. The sauce is drizzled around the lamb in circles that remind Chan of toy train tracks around a Christmas tree.

The chef’s favorite is dessert. Apricot mousse sits inside a spun-sugar “Christmas crystal” that is reminiscent of tree ornaments. It is served with crispy sponge cake and pistachio crusts. “We chose apricot,” says Chan, “because things can feel rather heavy after you’ve had lamb. Apricot has sweet and tart flavors that freshen your palate and pair perfectly with our selected dessert wines.”

首先是清爽开胃菜纽西兰海螯虾。Cano 表示，这道水煮大虾以海盐、橄榄油调味， 搭配烟熏椰菜花蓉和鱼子酱，口感层次多重 而丰富。 尽管融入了时尚元素，Cano 亦竭尽所能 保留菜式的经典意大利内涵，他的塔斯曼尼 亚羊脊酥皮卷佐厨师秘制馅料与烧汁就是绝 佳证明。他称 ： 「这很像威灵顿牛排，但不是 意式的，而是圣诞节限定。我们想做出让大 家都能联想到这个节日的美食。 」秘制馅料是 由意大利藉的前主厨 Giovanni Greggio 炮制， 烧汁零星点在羊排周围，形成一个圈，令他 想起环绕圣诞树的玩具铁轨。

Cano 的心头最爱是甜点。杏桃慕斯端坐 在焦糖拉丝塑型的「圣诞水晶球」中央，仿 似圣诞树装饰，旁边搭配脆脆海绵蛋糕与碎 「我们选用杏桃，因为吃 开心果。Cano 说 ： 完羊排会有点腻，杏桃的酸甜能清洗味蕾， 与我们精选的餐后甜酒更是绝配。 」 CIRCLE OF TIME | TK |

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好戏上场

showtime Gordon Ramsay’s newest Hong Kong restaurant features spectacular views, a stellar menu, and theatrical tableside service.

MAZE GRILL HAS LOCATION IN SPADES. Occupying the top floor of Ocean Terminal’s new glasshouse extension, the British-cuisine restaurant offers a wraparound terrace and floor-to-ceiling windows that guarantee magnificent wide-angle vistas of Victoria Harbour and the Hong Kong skyline beyond.

“I don’t think there’s anywhere in the city with a better view,” says head chef Gareth Packham, who witnessed the National Day fireworks firsthand from the dining room while chatting with guests during the restaurant’s soft-launch phase. “And I have to compete with it!” he laughs.

To do just that, maze Grill’s menu places the emphasis on dramatic tableside service, the better to draw attention back to delectable matters at hand. “You eat first with your eyes,” says Packham, “so if there’s a show, you’re almost already sold. We want to wow our guests above and beyond their expectations of an enjoyable dining experience.”

One of Packham’s favorite dishes is a beautiful salad of leafy watercress, cubed watermelon, rolled cucumber slices, and crisp lotus chips presented alongside a duck thigh that’s been slow-cooked and

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由「地狱厨神」Gordon Ramsay 主理的「maze

Grill」地点得天独厚，盘据海运大厦顶楼扩建的 全新玻璃屋。客人无论是从室内延伸至天花板的 挑高玻璃窗望出去，或是在露台上用餐，都可以 把维多利亚港及香港天际线美景尽收眼底。 试业期间，主厨 Gareth Packham 曾在餐厅 和客人边聊天，边欣赏于眼前绽放的国庆日烟火。 难怪他会自信满满地表示 ： 「相信全城找不到比 我们景观更好的地点了！美景当前，我们的料理 当然也不能逊色。 」 特色桌边服务正是「maze Grill」的一大特 点，可以让客人将注意力集中在厨师手中的美 味食物上。他分析 ： 「吃东西首先是用眼睛看， 开场来个吸睛的表演，就成功一半了。我们的 目标就是为客人提供惊艳、超乎预期、心满意 足的用餐体验。 」 其中最让主厨爱不释手的一道菜便是摆盘 美不胜收的鸭肉西瓜沙拉，水田芥叶、切成块状

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

PRESENTED BY DINING CONCEPTS

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↑↑

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Special confit duck and watermelon salad

Sliced snapper

Grilled diver scallops

鸭肉西瓜沙拉

生红鲷鱼片

烤扇贝

then deep-fried. The tender meat is flaked off the bone and tossed with the salad at the table before serving.

Packham specially commissioned the trolley from which he serves a traditional ploughman’s pork pie, classic pub fare that would not normally warrant this degree of showcasing in the UK. But in Hong Kong, Packham has taken pains to highlight time-honored British dishes elevated by maze Grill’s premium ingredients, including dry-aged cuts of rare-breed British beef and the handcrafted Maldon sea salt sprinkled over thick steaks.

The pork pie is carved at tableside as Packham introduces each accompaniment: “There’s English applewood-smoked cheddar, pickled beetroot, and hard-boiled eggs. And we offer three types of mustard: Dijon, French – and English , of course.” He pauses. “Which would you like?”

的西瓜、小黄瓜薄片及莲藕片搭配慢煮后下锅 油炸的鸭腿肉上桌。主厨在客人桌边去骨，取 出鲜嫩的鸭肉后伴入沙拉，香味扑鼻。 另外，制作英伦经典餐馆小点－传统农夫 猪肉批则需要出动一整台小餐车，在英国通常 不会如此大费周章，但来到香港，Gareth 则是 把握机会大秀这道历久不衰的英式美食。这道 菜用上「maze Grill」的顶级食材，如干式熟成 的罕见英国种牛肉，以及洒在厚切牛排上的自 家制马尔顿海盐。 猪肉批在桌边现切同时，主厨也逐一介绍搭 配的食材 ： 「有英国苹果木熏制的巧达奶酪、腌 甜菜根及全熟水煮蛋。还有三种芥末酱－法国狄 戎的，当然也有英国产的。想要哪一种？」 circle of time

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PRESENTED BY HYATT REGENCY HONG KONG, SHA TIN

掌握美味秘诀

understanding flavors Sha Tin 18’s seasoned master chef delivers the true taste of Cantonese, Dongguan, and Northern Chinese cuisines.

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香港沙田凯悦酒店中菜行政主厨何振雄表

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示： 「我们的客人对道地的怀旧滋味－小

Chef Ho Chun Hung

时候吃到的那种味道念念不忘。 」踏入厨

何振雄师傅

界超过 30 年，取悦客人的味蕾正是何师 傅的拿手好戏。他指出 ： 「客人期望在此

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品尝到无懈可击的传统家庭料理，这也正

Peking duck

是为什么对我们来说品质永远是第一优先

北京烤鸭

－非味道最佳的当令食材不用。 」他也悉 心照料客人的各种特别要求 ： 「客人菜里 不想要糖、盐或辣的话，我们都很乐意调 整。 」 「沙田 18」的招牌菜北京烤鸭作法与 北京东方君悦大酒店如出一辙，保留老北 京的传统吃法，在香港相当少见。鸭胸附 近的鸭皮，即最酥脆的部位，沾着糖一起 吃 ；胸肉及腿肉则加上青瓜、大蒜及黄面 酱，包在卷饼内一起享用。 何师傅也同时不断推陈出新，推出 带有当代元素的创意料理，例如在豉香蒸 鲜膏蟹钵这道东莞经典名菜中加入风干 橘皮，更添一丝细腻的香气。 「对味道了 若指掌，同时透过料理带出味道，没有比 这更重要的事了。 」

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

“OUR GUESTS ARE LOOKING for authentic flavors – the kind they had growing up,” says Ho Chun Hung, Chinese Chef de Cuisine at Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Sha Tin. With more than thirty years’ experience, Chef Ho, who expertly oversees the hotel’s signature Chinese restaurant, knows how to please. “Diners at Sha Tin 18 expect traditional family-style dishes that are made to perfection,” he says, “and that’s why we put such great emphasis on quality – we only use seasonal ingredients that are at their absolute peak.” Guests’ special needs are also a top priority for Ho: “If someone tells us they can’t have sugar, salt, or spice, we’re happy to change things up.”

Famed for its signature Peking duck, Sha Tin 18 follows the same preparation and cooking methods used at the hotel’s sister property in the capital city. And in keeping with Beijing tradition, it is served the classic way, which is a rarity in Hong Kong. The skin near the breast – “the crispiest part” – is eaten with sugar; the breast and leg meat is wrapped in pancakes and served with cucumber, leek, and soybean paste.

The chef, however, is constantly coming up with creative ways to add contemporary touches to the menu. For example, his spin on a classic dish of steamed crab, egg, and minced pork with preserved soybeans also includes sun-dried tangerine peel to lend a subtle fragrance. “Understanding flavors and knowing how to bring them out are always paramount.”

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PRESENTED BY AQUA RESTAURANT GROUP

至臻完善

turning up the heat With spicy specialties and signature cocktails, Hutong celebrates its new executive chef and the debut of Moon Gate Bar.

YU SHIANG TIGER P R AW N S I N S A LT Y F I S H AND GARLIC CHILI SAUCE 鱼香大虎虾

Despite its literal translation, “fish fragrance,” yu shiang sauce contains no fish, nor do Sichuan dishes made with it typically feature seafood. Tung breaks with tradition by adding salted fish to his housemade yu shiang, serving it with tiger prawns and topping the dish with crispy flakes of silver fish. 虽然名为「鱼香」酱，它本身却不含鱼，借其调味的 四川菜亦不含海鲜。童师傅破旧立新，在他自制的鱼香 酱中添加咸鱼，搭配虎虾摆盘，最后再撒上银鱼脆片。

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B R A I S E D LO B S T E R W I T H LAO GAN MA S P I C Y C H I L I CRISP AND PICKLED CABBAGE 老干妈龙虾

The famous Lao Gan Ma sauce was originally mixed into a simple noodle dish. Tung adds his personal touch, bringing out its intense umami flavors and proving that the popular condiment pairs just as well with delicacies like lobster. 著名的老干妈辣椒酱最初只是拌 面酱。童师傅却以他个人风格来 诠释，带出浓郁的鲜味，证明受 普罗大众欢迎的拌酱也能与龙虾 等高级美食相得益彰。

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

PRESENTED BY AQUA RESTAURANT GROUP

LINING THE WESTERN SIDE of Hutong restaurant is a row of private dining rooms, their closed, side-by-side antique doors mimicking the old Beijing alleys for which the restaurant was named. At evening, the rooms’ guests are treated to a gorgeous display as the sun dips behind the outlying islands and into the sea, and through floorto-ceiling windows on the southern wall, they enjoy breathtaking views of Hong Kong’s skyline along Victoria Harbour.

The restaurant ’s interior design is equal ly stunning. Drawing inspiration from siheyuan , traditional courtyard residences, the décor makes imaginative use of reclaimed wood, antique furniture, hanging lanterns, and vintage birdcages.

Traditional Chinese architecture and design elements carry through to Moon Gate Bar, Hutong’s newly opened bar space and tea lounge. Guests pass through its titular stone doorway, elegantly arched and carved like the circular entrances to classical Chinese gardens, and step under an elaborately handcrafted wooden ceiling recovered from a seventy-year-old Shanxi house.

From a bar counter styled as an oversize birdcage, mixologists serve a range of signature cocktails focusing on Chinese flavors and ingredients. Teas like chamomile and pu’er are infused in house spirits for up to three months; dried fruits like jujubes and mountain hawthorn are boiled down with sugar to create distinctively flavored syrups.

In the main dining room, Martin Mak, a specialist in barbecued meats, presides over roasted Peking duck at a tableside carving station. Grasping the neck with one hand and deftly wielding a Chinese cleaver with the other, he draws the blade horizontally along the top of the piping-hot bird, slicing off the thinnest of slivers. Speed and precision are paramount in ensuring that the skin stays crispy and the meat tender and moist when served.

Chef Martin Mak 麦志炳师傅

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ALASKAN CRAB AND SHRIMP SPICY SALAD 虾兵蟹将

Tung’s take on tiger salad, lao hu cai , retains enough of the spicy and strong flavors from scallions and chili peppers to live up to the “tiger” epithet but adds premium Alaskan crab and shrimp to enhance a traditionally vegetarian home-style dish. 童师傅改造东北凉拌菜「老虎菜」 ，保留足 够的青葱及辣椒，使味道香辣生猛如老虎一 般，再拌入上等的阿拉斯加虾蟹肉，为这道 传统的素食家常菜增添风味。

CHILI JULEP Hutong’s variation on the julep makes use of chili-infused honey and ground Sichuan pepper to introduce both hot and numbing spice to the cocktail classic. The potent heat is perfectly balanced by sweetness from the honey and acidity from the passion fruit purée. 「胡同」在朱利普调酒的创新上，使用了浸有 辣椒的蜂蜜和四川花椒粉，为经典调酒加入 既辣且麻的辛香料，而蜂蜜的甜味和百香果 果泥的酸味完美地平衡了强烈的麻辣口感。

「胡同」取名自老北京城中的街巷阡陌，餐厅西侧有一排私人用餐包厢， 隐密且紧连的古典屏风仿造了雅致的北京小巷氛围。傍晚，包厢的客人 能饱览残阳倚岛、落日入海的绝美景致。望穿南面的落地窗，则可把维 多利亚港周边的香港天际线尽收眼底，欣赏绝丽的夜景。 餐厅的室内装潢令人惊艳，设计灵感汲取自传统中式庭院住宅── 四合院，匠心独具地利用了再生木材、古董家具、吊挂灯饰以及复古鸟 笼来做点缀。 「胡同」新开业的酒吧区和品茗室 ──「拱月门」处处可见中国传统 建筑和设计元素。典雅石拱门上的雕刻与中国古典园林入口月洞门上的 如出一辙，顶上的手工木制天花板则是取材于具七十年历史的山西古宅， 再造后仍旧古韵十足。 吧台设计如一个巨型鸟笼，供应一系列以中式风味和食材为基调的 特色鸡尾酒。茶叶如洋甘菊和普洱可在烈酒中浸渍长达三个月，而红枣 和山楂等干果则可加糖熬制成独具风味的糖浆。 在用餐区，烧肉专家麦志炳在桌边即席为北京烤鸭切片，一只手握

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

住鸭脖子，另一只手游刃有余地下刀，水平沿着烤鸭顶部刨切下极细的 鸭丝。操刀的关键在于速度和精准度，如此才能完美地呈上脆嫩鸭皮、 细嫩鸭肉同时保持湿润的口感。 麦师傅利用独特的腌制技术为鸭渍入新鲜苹果和梨的香气，并以特 殊的燃气挂炉烘烤，不仅鸭皮酥脆、鸭肉多汁、饼皮轻薄如纱，桌边的 互动服务更是逸趣横生。 circle of time

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Mak makes use of a distinctive marinating technique to infuse his ducks with the aroma of fresh apples and pears, and he roasts them in a special gas-fired hanging oven. The skin is crisp, the meat is juicy, the pancakes are gossamer thin, and the tableside service is interactive and entertaining.

Recently returned from a stint at Hutong’s London outpost in The Shard, Mak joins newly appointed Executive Chef Tung and his team in creating dishes that skillfully convey the subtle complexities and bold-yet-balanced flavors of northern and western Chinese food, represented by Lu cuisine from Shandong province and Chuan cuisine from Sichuan province.

In developing original signature dishes for Hutong, Tung contemporizes classic Shandong and Sichuan dishes with premium ingredients like Alaskan crab, tiger prawns, and lobster and with skillful techniques that elevate such traditional sauces and seasonings as yu shiang and Lao Gan Ma Spicy Chili Crisp.

PRESENTED BY AQUA RESTAURANT GROUP

麦师傅最近才从位在伦敦碎片大厦 (The Shard) 的「胡同」 餐厅回来，加入了新任命的行政总厨童伟浩师傅的团队，共同 创作新菜式，巧妙地结合了以山东鲁菜为代表的中国北方料理 和以四川川菜为代表的中国西方料理，其微妙揉杂的美味，大 胆却不失和谐。 为「胡同」设计原创招牌菜的过程中，童师傅把经典的山 东和四川菜肴「时尚化」 ，用阿拉斯加蟹、虎虾和龙虾等高级食 材、以及自身纯熟的技术来创新诠释鱼香酱、老干妈辣椒酱等 传统酱料和调味料。

M O O N G AT E CO C K TA I L

Housemade chamomile-infused vodka, Grand Marnier, flower water, pineapple juice, and lemon juice are shaken together with egg white for a bright, crisp drink with a silky texture. A sprinkling of dried osmanthus flowers atop the smooth foam adds a delicate floral note. 把独家自制的洋甘菊浸入伏特加、干邑橙酒、花水，凤梨 汁和柠檬汁，再与蛋清一起调制成口感鲜明清爽、质地滑 顺的调酒。最后在泡沫上洒上干桂花，增添一缕淡雅花香。

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光荣酿酒先锋

glorious possibilities On Scotland’s remote island of Islay, Bruichladdich creates a prolific palette of whiskies that express both the local terroir and the distillery’s legendary heritage.

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COURTESY OF BRUICHLADDICH (3)

PRESENTED BY BRUICHLADDICH

B R U I C H L A D D I C H ’ S R E P U TAT I O N as “progressive Hebridean distillers” is built on a historic foundation tracing to 1881. Always going its own distinctive way, the distillery was originally designed to produce the purest unpeated spirit possible.

Today, Bruichladdich continues its unabashed exploration of the full potential of Scotch single malts. Among its acclaimed roster of recent releases are its heavily peated Port Charlotte 10 year old and its extraordinary Rare Cask series.

The barley used in the production of Port Charlotte 10 year old is sourced exclusively from the Inverness region, and the grain is distilled in tall, fluted stills, ensuring high levels of copper contact that result in a silky smooth expression. To enrich the complexity of its fragrance and flavors, the spirit has a cask maturation profile of 65 percent first-fill American whiskey, 10 percent second-fill American whiskey, and 25 percent second-fill French wine.

With its beautiful spun-gold color, this flagship of the Port Charlotte range elegantly evokes Bruichladdich’s trademark barbecue smokiness.

Bruichladdich’s head distiller, Adam Hannett, has released a series of three very old Bruichladdich whiskies, the final parcels of casks from distillations in 1984, 1985, and 1986. They serve as unique tributes to Bruichladdich’s timeless legacy. “These rare old single malts are a direct link to our past,” says Hannett, “and to the men who made truly special spirit here while facing very different circumstances to those we enjoy today. These whiskies when tasted leave me speechless. They are in their prime, the last of their kind, and can never be repeated, never recreated. Nothing quite like them will ever be seen again.”

布莱迪酒厰从 1881 年起便逐渐建立其「领先群雄的赫布里底群岛酒厂」的称 号。原先设计来酿造最纯净的无泥煤蒸馏酒，酒厂从开业以来一直走着自己 的路。 直到今天，布莱迪依然义无反顾地追寻苏格兰单一麦芽的最大潜力。广 和非凡出众的 Rare Cask 系列。 受好评的新品名单， 包含了重泥煤的波夏 10 年， 波夏 10 年特别选用因弗内斯地区所产的大麦，收集后放进高耸的凹槽 造型蒸馏器中，确保与铜管密切接触，以求让成品质地如丝绸般顺滑。为了 让芳香气味更加丰富醇厚，还必须依照专属的木桶熟成标准，也就是百分之 六十五的首次装桶美国威士忌、百分之十的二次装桶美国威士忌，再加上百 分之二十五的二次装桶法国葡萄酒进行熟成。 波夏系列金丝般的色泽，优雅地勾勒出布莱迪标志性的招牌烟薰香气。 酒厂首席蒸馏酿酒师 Adam Hannett 发表了一系列三款非常古老的布莱 迪威士忌，每款分别在 1984、1985 及 1986 进行最后一批的木桶蒸馏，也代 「这些古老而稀 表对布莱迪永恒的传统致上独一无二的最高敬意。Adam 说 ： 有的单一麦芽酒直接连结了酒厂的过去，也唤起了当时在不同时空条件下， 在此酿造独特蒸馏酒供后人享用的人们的身影。这些威士忌让我一入口便久 久无法言语。每一款都处于巅峰赏味期，同时也是珍贵的最后一批，更完全 无法被取代或复制。相信未来也很难再见到这样的美酒了。 」

Telford telfordspirits@telford.com.hk, +852 2315 6575, www.bruichladdich.com circle of time

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厨坛新秀再起

UNDER-30 CUISINE Youthful chefs from around the world join international culinary superstars at the S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2018 Grand Finale in Milan.

TK catches up with four of the Asia-based teams.

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COMPETITION

​ 数十年来，米兰被视为时尚与设计之都，如今 更成为世界各国新锐厨师的跑道。2015 年，圣 培露年轻厨师大奖赛总决赛首度在此举办。从此， 米兰与全球一流烹饪竞赛结下不解之缘。如今这 场竞赛已迈入第三年， 今年五月在米兰举行总决赛。 这场盛事不仅是新锐厨师极佳的露面机会，也 让人窥见美食世界的发展趋势，更足以证明不同世 代的厨师乐意交流学习、通力合作。 比赛的最后半年，从各个赛区脱颖而出的 21 位决 赛选手各获派一位全球知名大厨作导师。每一位导师均 在一旁给予忠告，指点选手们改良菜式，以求臻于完美， 并都陪着各自的学徒进入总决赛。虽说按规定导师不能 下厨，却可从旁计时，在场边给予指点和鼓励。来自东南 「和不是自己厨房团队的 亚的导师 Richard Ekkebus 表示 ： 人共事，真的很有趣。这一行最美好动人的一点在于，我 们天天跟年轻人一起工作，而且我不光是传授经验，也接收 新知识，算是互相交流想法。 」 中国籍导师邱琼天生是个教育家，懂得如何和厨房团队 伙伴分享诀窍，还在闲暇时训练烹饪学校的老师。她说 ： 「我 从其他导师身上学到许多，看他们如何帮助年轻的学徒，而且

ADMIRED FOR DECADES as an epicenter of fashion and design, Milan is now gaining a reputation as an international runway for new culinary talents.

In 2015, it hosted the first-ever S.Pellegrino Young Chef competition final and has continued its connection with the globally acclaimed search for gastronomic excellence. The Grand Finale of the competition’s third edition was held in the city in May of this year.

Besides serving as the ideal showcase for up-andcoming chefs and offering a glimpse into what lies ahead in the world of fine food, the event is a sterling example of intergenerational learning and collaboration in the kitchen.

For the last six months of the competition, from the regional finals through the Grand Finale, each of the twentyone finalists is assigned a mentor, a world-famous chef, whose job it is to advise and assist their protégé in refining and perfecting their dish. Each mentor accompanies their young chef to the Grand Finale, where, although they’re not permitted to help with the actual cooking, they assist with timekeeping and offer guidance and encouragement from the sidelines. “It’s really interesting to work with somebody who’s not from my kitchen,” says Southeast Asia mentor Richard Ekkebus. “The beauty of this profession is that we work with young people every day – and it’s not just what I pass on, it’s what I receive, a mutual exchange of ideas.”

我很开心能看到来自世界各地的食材。 」Umberto Bombana 负 责指点东北亚赛区的选手，他说 ： 「这对我来说也是很棒的学习 经验，现在比较能理解年轻一代的想法，和他（学徒）采用的 产品。 」

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China mentor Jacqueline Qiu is a natural pedagogue who, as well as sharing expertise with her own kitchen staff, trains cooking school teachers in her spare time. “I’m learning from the other mentors,” she says, “and seeing how they help their young chefs. And I’m enjoying seeing all the global ingredients.”

Umberto Bombana mentored the Northeast Asia finalist. “It was a great learning experience for me as well,” he says, “in coming to understand the younger generation and also the products he’s using.”

Luca Fantin, mentor for Japan, coached the eventual winner, Yasuhiro Fujio. As an Italian who cooks in Japan, Fantin relished the symmetry of bringing the Japanese young chef to compete in his home country. For the last three editions of the competition, Fantin sat on the regional panel of judges in Japan, but this was his first opportunity to experience the quite different task of mentoring a candidate all the way to the final. “When you’re judging, you taste with your colleagues, analyze the dishes, and understand the concepts.

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Luca Fantin 负责指点夺冠的日本厨 师藤尾康浩。Luca 是在日本工作的意大 利人，如今在自己国家带日本的年轻厨 师参加比赛，这对称感令他感到欣喜。 他一连三年担任日本区评审，但这是他 第一次带领参赛者晋级总决赛，这项任 务给了他截然不同的体验。他解释道： 「担 任评审时，你跟同事一道品尝，分析每 一道菜式， 了解当中的概念。但这不一样， 我们每个导师半年来都跟一名年轻厨师 并肩工作，只做一道菜。我指导的那个 厨师把他的文化、哲学和国家的味道糅 进了这道菜。 」 尽管藤尾在比赛期间始终显得含蓄

COMPETITION

WINNER’S DISH “A C R O SS T H E S E A,” YA S U H I R O F U J I O , J A PA N 冠军菜式 ： 「 渡 海 」， 藤 尾 康 浩 ， 日 本

Finalist Yasuhiro Fujio went to great lengths to transport a river fish called ayu, only found in Japan during the summer months, to Milan in order to create his winning dish. Complex techniques were required to ensure that it would taste just as fresh and delicious as it does back home. The flesh of an ayu is naturally tender and sweet, but the viscera are extremely bitter. Fujio in his dish made the most of this contrast by creating a pâté from the liver and serving it with a broth of “river water” made from cucumber, watermelon, melon, and green tomatoes.

Fujio’s intention was to guide the judges in exploring the ayu and its habitat. “I’m an ambassador for Japanese food culture,” he says, “and this dish comes from my heart.” His culinary mission was a double success: Fujio won both the title S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2018 and the Acqua Panna Taste of Authenticity Award, given in recognition of the chef who best expressed the story and the heritage behind their dish.

有一种只在夏季几个月的日本河川才找到的香鱼，晋 级决赛的藤尾康浩把这种鱼运到米兰，打造出这道冠 军菜式。要保留这道菜肴远在家乡的鲜美滋味，工序 十分繁复。香鱼的肉质细致清甜，内脏却很苦。藤尾 做这道菜时，着意强调两者的对比，用肝脏制成冷肉 冻，搭配用小黄瓜、西瓜、甜瓜和绿番茄一起熬煮的 清汤。藤尾希望吸引评审进一步探索香鱼和它们的栖 息地。他说 ： 「我是日本饮食文化的大使，我用真心 烹制这道菜。 」这项料理任务获得了双重成功 ：藤尾 不仅获得 2018 年圣培露青年厨师大奖总决赛的冠军， 也荣获 Acqua Panna 真实滋味大奖，以表彰他传达菜 肴背后的故事和传统的功力。

This is different,” he explains. “We work together with a young chef on just one dish for six months. My chef has brought his culture, philosophy, and country to this dish.”

Although Fujio appeared calm and reserved throughout the competition, his mentor knew him well enough to explain, “He doesn’t say a lot, but he feels a lot.” When Fujio was at last crowned S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2018, his modest acceptance speech brought tears to some in the audience: “I don’t consider myself the best Young Chef in the world, especially after seeing these twenty other talented chefs. I’m a little bit scared, because I’m going to have to work even harder. Holding this title is a big responsibility. What I’m going to do from now on is to turn that fear into courage.”

Federico Sarzi Braga, president and CEO of Sanpellegrino Group, in describing the ultimate purpose of the event, remarked: “The best we can do for gastronomy is to continue to nurture talent and passion.”

平静，相当了解他的导师说 ： 「他话不 多，但心里却有很多感悟。 」最后，藤尾 在 2018 年青年厨师大奖赛的总决赛中夺 冠，发表得奖感言时言辞谦逊，却令部 分观众眼泛泪光。藤尾说 ： 「我不觉得自 己是世上最厉害的年轻厨师，尤其是看 到另外二十位才气横溢的厨师之后，更 加不敢大意，我得加倍努力才行。获得 这项头衔是很大的责任，我今后要把这 份恐惧化为勇气。 」 关 于 这 场 盛 事 的 最 终 目 的， 圣 培 露 集 团 总 裁 兼 执 行 总 裁 Federico Sarzi 「我们能为美食界做出的最 Braga 表示 ： 大贡献，就是继续培养天分和热情。 」 circle of time

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VOYAGE OF SELF-DISCOVERY

发现自我的旅程

The S.Pellegrino competition offers a rare opportunity for young chefs to demonstrate their individuality. Rather than representing the kitchens where they work, they’re free to express their personal ideas. During the eighteen months of the competition, at first alone and then with the guidance of a mentor, each finalist finds their culinary voice and brings it to this global stage to communicate a message through their original dish. Some are personal, recalling childhood or family, some patriotic, introducing to the world to their home countries’ ingredients and culinary traditions. Some convey a more serious call for culinary responsibility, such as the importance of using sustainable products and the necessity of reducing kitchen waste.

Four of the finalists from across Asia present their dishes and the stories behind them:​ 对年轻厨师来说，这场总决赛是展现个人独 特性的大好机会。他们并非代表餐厅，而是 可以自由表达个人的想法。在长达一年半的 赛事期间，从一开始独立作业，到之后有导 师指导，每一位决赛参赛者都找到了自己的 声音，在国际舞台上透过独创菜肴，把所思 所想传递出去 ：有些是属于童年或家庭的私

R U N N E R- U P ’ S D I S H , “A G E D P I G EO N ,” JAKE KELLIE, SOUTHEAST ASIA 亚军菜式 ： 「 老 鸽 」， J A K E K E L L I E ， 东 南 亚

密记忆 ；有些是爱国情怀，向全世界介绍母 国的食材和料理传统 ；也有些是为了唤起身 为厨师的责任，比如推崇使用永续产品，及 宣导减少厨余的必要性。四位来自亚洲国家 的决赛选手各自端出菜肴，细诉背后的故事。

Southeast Asia finalist Jake Kellie, eager to combine native Australian ingredients with the signature grilling technique of Burnt Ends, the Singapore restaurant where he works, used much of his luggage allowance by bringing with him to Milan twenty kilos of jarrah wood, which he burned in one piece, breaking it down to coals.

“The way we cook pigeons,” he says, “is to put them straight on the coals to give a really smoky outside.” The pigeons spend ten days marinating in strawberry gum, a flavoring with fruity eucalyptus notes that is derived from a native Australian tree, and Tasmanian pepper berries. “These ingredients give an amazing aroma,” says Kellie. “I’m passionate about my home country, so it was good to put my stamp on its indigenous ingredients. I used the livers, hearts, legs, and bones of the pigeon to make a broth. Using whole creatures shows your talent as a chef – it should be encouraged in the younger generation.” As he prepared his dish, Kellie’s competition kitchen filled with appetizing scented smoke, and the judges were seen cleaning their plates.​ 来自东南亚的决赛参赛者 Jake Kellie 努力结合传统澳洲食材，和他任职的新加坡餐 厅「Burnt Ends」独具一格的烧烤技巧。他带着二十公斤的澳洲红木到米兰，行李 中几乎塞不下其他东西。他把一整块木头直接燃烧，再拆成小片作为煤料。 「我们烹煮鸽子的方式，是直接把它们放在煤上面，这样成品会有很漂 Jake 称 ： 亮的烟熏色泽。 」先把这些鸽子放入草莓明胶中浸十天，这种调味料具有果香般的 「这些 桉树基调，是取自某种澳洲产树木和塔斯马尼亚盛产的胡椒浆果。Jake 说 ： 材料香气非常馥郁。我热爱自己的国家，能够用属于自己的方式处理澳洲本地食材 真的很棒。我把鸽子的肝脏、心脏、腿、骨头拿来熬成肉汁，再把整只鸽子拿来烹煮， 一点也不浪费，最能展现身为厨师的天分，应该鼓励年轻一代这么做。 」Jake 准备 这道菜时，比赛会场飘着让人食指大动的烟熏香气，只见评判们吃得一点不剩。

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C O M PFEETAI T U I ORNE

HOW S.PELLEGRINO YOUNG CHEF WORKS

“ C H I L D H O O D ,” C H A N WA I P O O N , C H I N A 「 童 年 」， 潘 振 威 ， 中 国

“I came from a fishing village,” says finalist Chanwai Poon. “My mum used to make a simple lunch for me, and my signature dish recalls this.” Along with red mullet, pickled vegetables, fermented tofu, and a Cantonese biscuit, Poon adds a playful touch by cutting beetroot into the Tetris shapes of his favorite childhood game. 总决赛参赛者潘振威说 ： 「我在渔村里长大，母亲以前常替我做简单的午饭， 我的招牌菜就是关于这段回忆。 」他除了用上红鲻鱼、腌菜、豆腐乳和一片粤 式酥饼，还俏皮地将甜菜根切得像俄罗斯方块，那是他小时候最爱玩的游戏。

圣培露年轻厨师的诞生

The competition is open to chefs who are under the age of thirty at the time of application and have been employed in kitchens for at least one year.

Entrants submit online a recipe and photographs of an original signature dish. It may be a first or second course but not an appetizer or dessert.

The entries are reviewed by independent members of ALMA (the authoritative training center for Italian cuisine at an international level).

Dishes are assessed according to five criteria known as Golden Rules: Ingredients, Skill, Genius, Beauty, and Message.

ALMA selects 210 standout signature dishes and invites those chefs to regional finals held in twenty-one regions around the world. The regional finals see ten young chefs from each geographic region cook, within a strict five-hour time limit, their signature dishes for a panel of esteemed chefs.

The twenty-one winners of these regional finals are then invited to the Grand Finale in Milan for a live event over two days. These global finalists again cook their signature dishes, presenting them to a jury of international superstar chefs known as the “Seven Sages.”​ ​ 报名参赛时未满三十岁、至少在餐厅任职满一年的 厨师，均可参加。参赛者需在比赛网站上传一道原 创招牌菜的食谱和照片，前菜或主餐皆可，但不可 是开胃菜或甜点。 这些资料先由意大利美食国际教育和培训中 心领导者 ALMA 审核。每一道菜将根据「五大黄

“ T H E TA S T E O F TA I WA N ,” Z I H -YA N G C H E N , NORTHEAST ASIA 「 台 湾 之 味 」， 陈 子 洋 ， 东 北 亚

金准则」逐一审核 ：食材选择、烹调技巧、个人才 能、菜品外观和信息传递。 ALMA 先从中选出 210 道出色的招牌菜，并

邀请这些厨师参加区域挑战赛，全球共有 21 个赛

“Taiwan is a small country, but we have a breadth of ingredients with strong flavors,” explains finalist Zih-Yang Chen, who was determined to show the world his local food culture. His dish contains duck leg, breast, and liver, along with three kinds of preserved vegetables and pearl barley risotto.

区。每个赛区均有十名年轻厨师现场烹调，必须在 限定五小时内端出招牌菜让专家评审品尝，评审们 皆为享誉盛名的厨师。 从区域挑战赛脱颖而出的 21 名冠军，随后受 邀参加在米兰举行、为期两日的总决赛，现场较

「台湾是个小地方，但我们拥有各式各样风味强烈的食材。 」同样晋级决赛的陈

劲。进入总决赛的厨师再次烹煮招牌菜，并由全球

子洋表示，他打算让全世界看看台湾道地的饮食文化。这道菜包括了鸭腿、鸭

厨艺界七大顶尖名厨联袂组成的专业评审团，也就

胸和鸭肝，缀以三种腌菜和洋薏仁烩饭。

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COMPETITION

WISE WORDS 智者之言

The competition’s jury is a stellar panel of award-winning chefs from exceptional restaurants around the world. These “Seven Sages” offer the young chefs their best advice: 2018 年圣培露青年厨师大奖赛总决赛的评审团由获奖无数的名厨组成。 「七圣人」对年轻厨师提出宝贵建言 ：

 Margarita Forés（在菲律宾建立餐厅帝 国）：别怕犯错。以我来说，最宝贵的教训都 是从错误中学到的。

 Ana Roš（斯洛维尼亚科巴里德，Hiša Franko）: 成为专业厨师，你可以享受工作与 生活的平衡。若你能做到条理分明，就能享 受全面的人生。

 Brett Graham（英国伦敦，The Ledbury）：一家餐厅最重要的是用餐的客人， 不是厨师本身怎么想。你得煮客人想吃的东 西。

 Virgilio Martínez（秘鲁利马，Central）： 许多厨师都有胆子小的问题，就像我到现在 要做简报时还会胆怯。懂得战胜恐惧很重要。

 Paul Pairet（中国上海，Ultraviolet）：厨 师这份工作是一门技艺，需要慢慢学。或许 数位时代有更多获取资料的管道，但动手做 出一道佳肴，并没有捷径可走。

 Dominique Crenn（美国旧金山，Atelier Crenn）：做自己。要充满自信，透过行动实 现你的愿景。无法彰显你这个人的事，别碰。

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 Annie Féolde（意大利佛罗伦斯，Enoteca Pinchiorri）：简单、精准。

 Margarita Forés (operates a restaurant

 Brett Graham (The Ledbury, London,

 Paul Pairet (Ultraviolet, Shanghai,

empire across the Philippines): Never be afraid of making mistakes. As far as I’m concerned, the most important lessons are the ones I’ve learned from failures.

England): Customers are the most important part of the restaurant, not the personal ideas of a chef. You need to cook what your customers want.

China): This job is a craft that needs to be learned slowly. You may have access to more information in this digital age, but there are no shortcuts to the good execution of a dish.

 Ana Roš (Hiša Franko, Kobarid,

 Virgilio Martínez (Central, Lima, Peru):

Slovenia): You can have a healthy work-life balance when you pursue a career in the kitchen. If you are well organized, you can have it all.

Many chefs struggle with nerves – I do, even now, if I have to do a presentation.

It’s important to learn to fight your fear.

 Annie Féolde (Enoteca Pinchiorri,

 Dominique Crenn (Atelier Crenn, San Francisco, USA): Be yourself, be confident, and make sure that what you do is about your vision. Don’t try to do something that isn’t you.

Florence, Italy): Be simple and precise.

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逐「绿」生活

turning green Ireland renews its embrace of the land.

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“The jewel of Ireland” is the country’s prolific agricultural sector. 多产的农业是爱尔兰的瑰宝。

IMAGE COURTESY BORD BIA

TRAVEL

“GREEN BURSTS OUT on every herb,” wrote an anonymous tenth-century Irish poet in rhapsodic celebration of summer. Set foot on Irish soil and the significance of the national color becomes ubiquitously apparent: endless meadows rolling by on drives down country lanes, thick carpets of glistening grass beneath the hooves of sheep and cattle grazing contentedly. One quickly comes to realize that the “modern” idea of “green living” is something deeply embedded in the history and psychology of a nation that since time out of mind has relied on the land for sustenance and for solace.

Statistical factors readily account for Ireland’s abundance of green: high average annual rainfall, fertile soil, and some of the cleanest air in the world. A renewed dedication to farming practices that aim to retain the quality of Ireland’s natural resources is supported by initiatives like Origin Green, developed by Bord Bia (Irish Food Board) as the world’s first food-and-drink sustainability program operating on a national scale. Such commitment, combined with a centuriesold legacy of successful food and beverage brands, makes it easy to see why Ireland’s agricultural production is making such a bountiful comeback.

Helping the cause are establishments like BrookLodge & Macreddin Village, nestled in a rolling County Wicklow valley. At one time an important agricultural center, the site is now home to a luxury hotel, a wellness spa, a golf course, vegetable and ornamental gardens interlaced with walks, and three restaurants, including The Strawberry Tree, Ireland’s first certified-organic restaurant.

Behind it all is Evan Doyle, a pioneer of the Irish slow food and wild food movements, who created the village with his brothers three decades ago. circle of time

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十世纪一位爱尔兰诗人在一首热烈欢庆夏日 的诗中写道 ： 「每株枝桠均迸发出鲜绿。 」在 爱尔兰的土地，这个国家的代表色到处可见， 重要性自然不言而喻。青青草原沿着乡间道 路无限延伸，羊蹄踏着闪亮翠绿的厚地毯， 牛群心满意足尽情饱餐。这个国度早已在开 国之初便仰赖土地汲取养分与慰藉。不用多 久， 所有人都会发现所谓「绿生活」的「时尚」 概念，已经在这个农业大国的历史与人民心 里扎根。 统计数据清楚解释了爱尔兰处处绿意 全球最纯净的空气，还有持续致力于维护该 国优良天然资源的耕作法，例如爱尔兰食品 委員會 (Bord Bia) 开发的「源于绿色 (Origin

Green)」，就是世界上第一个全国性的饮食永 续计划。政府全心投入，加上传承数世纪、 早已声名远播的餐饮品牌，爱尔兰能凭靠农 作生产东山再起，个中原因显而易见。 座落于威克洛郡绵延山谷里的玛克雷丁 村布鲁克小屋酒店 (BrookLodge & Macreddin

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Chef and Irish slow-food pioneer Evan Doyle with his team in the forests surrounding BrookLodge & Macreddin Village.

Village) 是不遗余力地推动这些工程的功臣

大厨兼爱尔兰慢食先驱Evan Doyle和他的团队在玛克雷丁村布鲁克小屋酒店周围的森林中。

今集高档酒店、养生水疗、高尔夫球场、蔬

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之一。威克洛郡曾经是重要的农业中心，如

IMAGE COURTESY BROOKLODGE & MACREDDIN VILLAGE

盎然的原因 ：年均雨量充沛，土壤肥沃，有

Ireland’s lush grass growth is the product of abundant rainfall and fertile soil.

IMAGE COURTESY CLIFF HOUSE HOTEL

爱尔兰到处可见茂盛的草 地，这归功于充沛的降 雨量和肥沃的土壤。

IMAGE COURTESY BORD BIA

TRAVEL

Dutch-born chef Martijn Kajuiter heads Cliff House Hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant in Ardmore Bay. 荷兰藉厨师Martijn Kajuiter 掌管位于阿德莫尔湾的崖屋 酒店的米其林星级餐厅。

Most of the produce for The Strawberry Tree’s dinner and tasting menus is sourced locally, a good deal of it foraged from the surrounding forests and hillsides. Restaurant staff harvest seasonally – garlic in May, elderflower in June, bilberry in July – and store produce for the winter in the wild foods larder. The village has also hosted its annual Wild Foods Dinner for over twenty years, and, in 2017, The Strawberry Tree put on the ambitious ZER0KM Dinner. Requiring twenty months of preparation, all the food for a fifteen-course dinner for one hundred was sourced, harvested, and processed on the village property or adjacent farms.

Farther down Ireland’s eastern coast in County Waterford, the white-walled Cliff House Hotel perches dramatically on the cliffs above Ardmore Bay. The land surrounding this luxury property is zigzagged with walking trails that lead the curious to ancient altars, ruined cathedrals, and weatherworn tenth-century gravestones. Dutch-born Martijn Kajuiter joined the Cliff House team in 2007 as executive chef of The House Restaurant. He relished the chance to explore the county’s countryside villages, uncovering along the way a wealth of locally produced food that he could tap for use in the restaurant.

In nearby Cappoquin, for instance, Barron’s Bakery & Coffee House has been producing bread for generations and is still using the same wood-fired Scotch brick ovens, the last of their kind in Ireland. And a little further afield in the town of Lismore is McGrath butchers. Past generations of proprietors served the gentry of Lismore Castle, but today’s father-and-son owners, Michael and John McGrath, offer the finest cuts

菜 与 花 卉 园 区、 数 条 步 道 与 三 家 餐 厅 于 一 身， 包 括 爱 尔 兰 第 一 家 有 机 认 证 餐 厅「The Strawberry Tree」。酒店是由创始人、爱尔兰 慢食与野食运动先驱的 Evan Doyle 于三十年 前与兄弟们共同创办。 「The Strawberry Tree」 晚 餐 与 品 尝 菜 单都多数选用在地食材，其中又有很大一部 分是从餐厅附近的森林与山坡搜罗而来。餐 厅员工按季收成不同庄稼，五月是大蒜，六 月是接骨木花，七月是山桑子，并将野生农 产品贮存过冬。这座酒店每年举办一场野菜 晚 宴， 至 今 已 有 二 十 余 年 的 历 史。2017 年， 「The Strawberry Tree」更野心勃勃地组织了 ZER0KM 盛宴，费时二十个月准备，总共十五

道料理，所有食材都是酒店自己栽培，或从邻 近农场取得、采摘并处理。 距离稍远的爱尔兰东海岸沃特福德郡，有 一家白色墙面的酒店矗立于阿德莫尔湾上方悬 崖边，称为崖屋酒店，周遭满布之字形的健行 步道，游客抱着好奇心拾级或上或下，便可一 览古老祭坛、颓圮大教堂、历经风霜的十世纪 墓碑。荷兰裔的 Martijn Kajuiter 于 2007 年来 到崖屋酒店，担任「House Restaurant」的行 政总厨，他十分珍惜这个能探索爱尔兰乡间村 circle of time

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落的机会，沿途发掘各式各样用来入馔的当 地生产食材。 例如附近卡波昆的「Barron’s」烘焙与 咖啡屋，这里的手工面包已传承好几代，该 店至今仍沿用烧柴火的苏格兰砖炉，为爱 尔兰仅存。再远一点的利斯莫尔镇上有家 「McGrath Butchers」肉铺，过去几代专门 服务利斯莫尔城堡的上流绅士阶级，如今由 一对父子 Michael McGrath 与 John McGrath 联手经营，为镇上居民与高级餐厅提供当地 养殖、手工处理的精美肉块。 然而，对 Martijn 大厨而言，最有成就 感的当属与野生植物专家 Andrew Malcolm 一起踏上寻访野菜之旅。他们能采收到罕

IMAGE COURTESY CLIFF HOUSE HOTEL

of locally sourced, hand-processed meat to townspeople and top restaurants.

Most rewarding for Chef Kajuiter, however, are the foraging trips he takes with wild-plant expert Andrew Malcolm. The rare produce they collect brings seasonal, distinctively Irish flavors direct from the soil to the Cliff House menu, an authenticity that has helped win The House Restaurant a Michelin star.

The economic life of today’s Ireland finds its strength in contrasting sources, from the increasingly cosmopolitan capital of Dublin, European headquarters for many of the world’s top technology companies, to rural farming villages with ancient castles and picturesque stone houses. Both are vital, but most would agree on what’s closest to the Irish heart. “We may have a lot of investment from the perspective of technology, says Tara McCarthy, CEO of Bord Bia, “but the indigenous industry of Ireland, our agricultural sector – that’s our jewel.”

TRAVEL

The restaurant at Cliff House Hotel overlooks Ardmore Bay. 在崖屋酒店的餐厅可饱览 阿德莫尔湾的美景。

见 食 材， 为 佳 肴 带 进 当 季 独 特 的 爱 尔 兰 风 IMAGE COURTESY BROOKLODGE & MACREDDIN VILLAGE (2)

味，名符其实从产地土壤直接送上崖屋酒店 的餐桌，也正是这种正宗道地，为「House

Restaurant」赢得米其林一星殊荣。 如今爱尔兰的经济实力来自两种截然迥 异的力量，一种来自越来越都会化的首都城 市，亦是众多世界首屈一指科技大厂的欧洲 总部所在地都柏林 ；另一种力量则源自有着 如诗如画的古堡与石屋的乡间农村，两者缺 一不可。但多数人都会同意，只有其中一种 真正贴近爱尔兰人的内心。Bord Bia 执行长 「我们或许拥有大量科 Tara McCarthy 总结 ： 技投资，但我们的农业是爱尔兰的根本，这 才是无价的珍宝。 」

The wild food larder at The Strawberry Tree, Ireland’s first certified-organic restaurant 爱尔兰首家有机认证餐厅「The Strawberry Tree」的野生食品储藏室

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RESTAURANT LISTINGS Aux Beaux Arts 宝雅座 5

French G/F, MGM MACAU, Avenida Dr. Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau

澳门外港新填海区孙逸仙大马路澳门美高 梅地面层 q +853 8802 2319

Brunch: Sat & Sun: 11:00-15:00 Afternoon Tea: Sat & Sun: 15:00-18:00 Dinner: 18:00-00:00 A Smart casual

Chiado 希雅度葡国餐厅 Portuguese Shop 2206, Level 2, Sands Cotai Central, Estrada do Istmo. s/n, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹连贯公路澳门金沙城中心2楼店铺

Hutong 胡同 5

Foodgears Industrial International Ltd. 福基国际工业股份有限公司 Room 3105, New Tech. Plaza, 34 Tai Yau Street, San Po Kong, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龙新蒲岗大有街 34号新科技广场

Gradini Ristorante E Bar Italiano 5

Italian Lobby Level, 74 Queen’s Road Central, The

Afternoon Tea: 15:00-18:00 Dinner: 18:30-23:00

Grill 58 盛焰 5

Western grill and teppanyaki Ground floor mezzanine, MGM COTAI, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau

澳门路氹体育馆大马路美狮美高梅GM 层 q +853 8806 2318

Dinner: 18:00-23:00

JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Hong Kong

Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹体育馆大马路永利皇宫西名店街 地面层 q +853 8889 3663

Maze Grill

Sun & Public Holidays: 10:30-15:30

5

British – Steaks & Grill Shop OTE401, Level 4, Ocean Terminal, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong

香港尖沙咀海港城海运大厦OTE401号

Lunch: Mon-Sat: 11:30-15:00; Dinner: 17:30-22:30 A Casual elegant

Yee Tung Heen 怡东轩 5

q +852 2765 0890

Cantonese The Excelsior, 281 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong

11:30-23:00

香港铜锣湾告士打道281号怡东酒店

Sha Tin 18 沙田18 5

Dongguan and Northern Chinese 4/F, Hyatt Regency, 18 Chak Cheung Street, Sha Tin, New Territories, Hong Kong

香港新界沙田泽祥街18号香港沙田凯悦酒 店4楼 q +852 3723 1234

Lunch: Mon-Fri: 11:30-15:00; Dinner: 17:30-22:30

TK | circle of time

Cantonese West Esplanade, G/F, Wynn Palace,

q +852 2810 8366

Dinner: 18:00-23:00

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5

香港金钟道88号太古广场

Sat & Sun: 10:30-15:00

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Wing Lei Palace 永利宫

香港JW万豪酒店

Lunch: 11:00-15:00 A Smart casual

Lunch: 12:00-14:30 Dinner: 18:30-22:30

Sun: 12:00-15:30

Breakfast: 6:30-10:30 Lunch: 12:00-15:00

q +853 8803 7878

Lunch: Mon-Sat: 12:00-14:30;

香港中环皇后大道中74号中环 • 石板街酒 q +852 2308 3088

Lisboa, Macau 澳门葡京路新葡京酒店43楼

q +852 3428 8342

Pottinger Hong Kong, Hong Kong 店大堂

French 43/F, Grand Lisboa, Avenida de

香港尖沙咀北京道1号28楼

3105室 q +852 2322 1222

5

Kong

q +853 8113 8988

Dinner: 18:00-23:00

Northern Chinese 28/F, One Peking, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong

2206 Lunch: 12:00-15:00

Robuchon au Dôme 天巢法国餐厅

A Smart casual

q +852 2837 6790

Lunch: Mon-Sat: 12:00-14:30; Sun: 10:30-15:00 Dinner: 18:00-22:30

Ying Jee Club 营致会馆 5

Cantonese Shop G05, 107-108, Nexxus Building, 41 Connaught Road, Central, Hong Kong

香港中环干诺道中41号地下G05、107及 108号 q +852 2801 6882

Lunch: 11:30-15:00 Dinner: 18:00-23:00

DAVID HARTUNG

5

DESSERT

「希雅度葡国餐厅」行政总厨 Henrique Sá Pessoa 从未预料到这道甜点如此受欢迎， 自从巧克力「炸弹」推出后，十二年来一直是粉丝的最爱。他说明 ： 「这道甜点是起初​ 在经营『Alma』餐厅时由烘培师傅所研发，不仅一炮而红更深受当地食客们的口耳相传。 」

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DAVID HARTUNG

Chiado’s Executive Chef Henrique Sá Pessoa never expected a dessert to gain so much notoriety, but twelve years after its conception, the Chocolate Bombe is still a fan favorite. “This dessert was created by my pastry chef when we first opened Alma and it became an instant success. It was the talk of the town.”