TK37 The Faroe Islands

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T A S T I N G 37

K I T C H E N

T H E F A R O E I S L A N D S

THE FAROE ISLANDS

Shaped by the Sea 向海而生

HONG KONG

Subarctic Specialties 北大西洋海味珍饈

TÓRSHAVN

At the Edge of the World 世界之缘

SEE M O R E WITH THE AIRLINE THAT FLIES TO MORE COUNTRIES THAN ANY OTHER

TUNISIA

+852 2861 3111 HKGTICKETING@THY.COM

STARTER

“The Faroese have always been exporting langoustines, but we never ate them ourselves,” says Poul Andrias Ziska, head chef of Koks, the islands’ first and only Michelin-starred restaurant. “I discovered the langoustine as an ingredient when I started cooking at a professional level.”

Ziska sears the meat on one side only to achieve depth of flavor from caramelization while preserving its delicate texture. The dish is paired with a seasonal bouquet of cultivated and wild herbs and finished with a sprinkling of dehydrated-and-powdered pine needles for a light, citrusy accent.

法罗群岛上首间及唯一一间米其林星级餐厅「Koks」主厨 Poul Andrias Ziska 表示 ：

「我们向来只出口海螯虾，从来不自己吃。我刚成为专业厨师时才第一次发现可以将海螯虾用作食材。 」 海螯虾经 Poul 单面香煎，经焦化提取出深层的美味，中间微热但还是生的。旁边放着一束植栽与野生香草，

DAVID HARTUNG

配搭会随季节而变。Poul 再将松针脱水后磨成粉，撒在海螯虾上，产生一种轻柔的柑橘味。

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EXPERIENCE THE GLOW OF FAROESE HOSPITALITY In the heart of Tórshavn, the charming and vibrant capital of the Faroe Islands Hotel Hafnia’s serene surroundings, comfortable accommodations, exceptional dining options, and stellar service are sure to make your visit a memorable event.

Book your stay at www.hafnia.fo or email hafnia@hafnia.fo.

Áarvegur 4 -10, 100 Tórshavn | www.hafnia.fo | +298 31 32 33 | Facebook and Instagram: HotelHafnia

T A S T I N G 37

T H E

K I T C H E N

F A R O E

I S L A N D S

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Until 2004, when a tunnel was blasted through one of the surrounding mountains to connect the Faroese village of Gásadalur with the rest of the island, only its sixteen inhabitants – and the hardiest and most determined of visitors – could appreciate this stunning vista of Múlafossur Waterfall and the tiny hamlet beyond. 一条穿山隧道在2004年修建完成，连接Gásadalur村和法罗群岛的其他地 方。在这之前，只有16名居民，以及决意探访这片秘境的游客，能欣赏 到Múlafossur瀑布的壮丽景色和这个堪比「世外桃源」的小村庄。

Photography by David Hartung ©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2018 All rights reserved

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Famously described as “the windy edge of nowhere,” the Faroe Islands is one of the most remarkable destinations that Tasting Kitchen has had the pleasure to feature. It’s a land filled with natural beauty and bounty, and this issue explores the nation’s art, design, landscape, and cuisine – and, of course, its world-renowned abundance of fresh seafood.

Our journey was unforgettably shaped by our host, Marni Gunnar Simonsen, a seafood exporter who revels in sharing the joys of the Faroes with his guests. Over the week that we spent with him, we began to think of Marni as the islands’ Walt Disney, always revealing a wonderful new surprise around every corner.

On the very first morning, he pulled off the highway and down a narrow lane to a small harbor, where he asked us to jump out, run around the corner, and look for a box. Once we’d retrieved it and brought it back to the shore, we looked inside to find sea urchins in a rainbow of hues. Marni produced a knife and we all proceeded to enjoy a uni tasting on the rocks right next to the ocean.

Another day, Marni drove to the top of a rise, parked without warning, and instructed us to get out and bring our bags with us. Cresting the hill, we came upon a helicopter waiting to take us to a neighboring island inaccessible by road.

The most memorable evening was the final one at Marni’s house when he arrived with two boxes of live langoustines. He taught us how to avoid getting pinched by the powerful claws of the feisty crustaceans by carefully picking them up behind the neck. Equipped with a pot of boiling water, we cooked dinner with our own hands, blanching each langoustine for just ten seconds. sauce, and slightly charred.

Marni predicted that after experiencing the beautiful pure flavor of a langoustine fresh from the sea, we would never forget it. He was right, and every one we taste from now on will bring back memories – of the Faroes, of Marni’s inimitable hospitality, and of his love for the islands.

MARK HAMMONS

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DAVID HARTUNG

Then we discovered how delicious they taste all by themselves, with salt, with lemon, with soy

CONTENTS

6 STARTER 14 Essentially Faroese • 16 Of Wind and Waves • 18 Sense of Place 20 Keeping It Faroese • 24 Transylvanian Red 26 At the Edge of the World • 32 Shaped by the Sea • 52 Consider the Langoustine 58 Subarctic Specialties • 70 Inspiration from the Sea

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CONTENTS

78 Fishing for Complements • 106 Delectably Romantic • 110 Southern Italian Tastes 118 Lasting Impressions • 122 Classic Yet Contemporary • 128 Just the Best 132 Cognac & Cantonese • 140 Modern French Flair • 144 Wines the Austrian Way • 146 Dream Cuisine 150 L I S T I N G S • 152 D E S S E R T

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INSPIRED LIVING

法罗群岛之源

essentially faroese Pure spring water, filtered through the volcanic basalt of mountainous islands, becomes the basis for a line of premium spirits.

ALTHOUGH CAPTURING THE ESSENCE of the Faroe Islands in a bottle of spirits may present interesting challenges, it wasn’t even legal until four years ago. Before then, liquor production was prohibited in the archipelago nation. But DISM, the company behind the first-ever Faroese distilled spirits, found a work-around in 2008 when it began exporting the crucial component, pristine Faroe Islands spring water, to neighboring countries for production. Now headquartered in Iceland, DISM is eyeing a possible relocation to the Faroes as it continues to craft its award-winning gin, vodka, and aquavits. And what could be more fitting than to present these exclusive Nordic libations in high-style Scandinavian glassware? 藉由蒸馏酒一品法罗群岛的醇馥幽郁是个饶富兴味的挑战，制酒在四年前才开始合法化，于此 之前，群岛内禁止生产烈酒。然而在 2008 年，首产法罗群岛蒸馏酒的公司 DISM 采取了权宜 之计，即出口关键原料－法罗群岛的纯水至邻近国家制酒。现今 DISM 总部位于冰岛，正等待 迁址至法罗群岛的时机，同时也持续酿制获奖无数的琴酒、伏特加及北欧香芹酒。而斟倒这些 绝无仅有的北欧美酒，还有什么比典雅的斯堪的纳维亚玻璃酒杯更匹配呢？

Eva Solo Aquavit Glasses (set of two), HKD274, evasolo.com

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FOOD + ART

乘风破浪

of wind and waves A celebrated Faroese painter takes his themes straight from the icy waters of his island home.

一座位于大西洋和挪威海交界的小岛，是艺术家 ARTIST AMARIEL NORÐO Y’S NATIVE LAND is situated where the North Atlantic Ocean meets the Norwegian Sea. The call of the ubiqAmariel Norðoy 的生长地，这里的深海魅力让许 多当地人都无法抗拒。他说 ： 「日光射向波浪再逐 uitous deep is an inescapable and irresistible part of life for most of its 渐洒落展开至整个海面，以及展翅翱 people. “My style,” he says, “has developed from impresBY 翔的海鸥。这样存于我脑海里的景象 sions of the sunbeams’ play in the waves and the spray KATE NICHOLSON 便是我风格的来源。 」 and of the seagulls hovering above it all.”

Born in 1945 in the lively harbor town of Klaksvík, 1945 年，Amariel 出生于克拉克 ART BY 斯维克这个充满朝气的海港小镇，在 Norðoy was number five of ten children in a family headed AMARIEL NORÐOY 十个孩子中排行第五，他有一位事业 by a successful fisherman father. At the age of fourteen, he 有成的渔夫父亲。十四岁时，Amariel spent two years traveling to and from Greenland, first as a 花了两年在格陵兰间往返旅行，一开始在船上担 messroom boy on an old schooner and then as a fisherman in an open 任餐厅服务生，后来成为出海捕鱼的渔人，主掌 boat, using a handwheel to bring in a catch and then transporting it 船舵将渔获带回母船。 back to the mother ship.

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再 后 来，Amariel 成 为 造 船 木 匠 的 学 徒， 并已成为了独当一面的造船匠，更参与打造能 航向大海的木造船舰，他创作的灵感却如泉水 般涌出，他依然满怀抱负、渴望学得更多。最 后他申请到哥本哈根丹麦皇家艺术学院进修并 顺利获录取，在 1977 至 1983 年间就学深造。

Amariel 回到法罗群岛后成为一位全职油 画和石版画艺术家。深受童年的海边生活和得 天独厚的自然景观影响，他的作品展现了波峰 起伏下的船身和阳光洒落的弧线，这与穿着厚 重服装的渔夫形成强烈对比。 「变化多端的天气创造出不 Amariel 说道 ： 可思议的光影，总是能轻易触动每位艺术家细 腻的感受。法罗群岛满布的山峦和峡湾，还有 光线、色彩、波浪、强风和流水，总让我感到 活力充沛。 」

AMARIEL NORDOY AND STEINPRENT (2)

It was later, as an apprentice to a ship’s carpenter, that Norðoy discovered a drive for creative expression, an ambition that was never fully satisfied even after he qualified as a shipwright and helped to build intricate wooden ocean-going vessels. He finally applied to study at Copenhagen’s Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, was accepted, and attended from 1977 to 1983.

When Norðoy returned to the Faroe Islands, he took up a career as a full-time artist whose paintings and lithographs show the obvious influence of his early life on the sea and of the overwhelming presence of natural forces on the islands. His works reveal the curved forms of fishing vessels juxtaposed against faceted ocean crests and dramatic arcs of sunlight contrasting with the blunt lines of heavily clothed fishermen.

“The ever-changing weather creates an incredible play of light that touches the feelings of any artist,” Norðoy says. “The mountains and fjords, light, color, waves, strong winds, and currents in and around the Faroes fill me with energy.”

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抟土为皿

sense of place Finnish ceramicist Saija Halko makes use of a rare Faroe Islands material in custom collections of practical and stylish tableware.

WHAT FIRST TOOK SAIJA HALKO to the Faroe Islands was meeting Saija Halko 与法罗群岛的缘分始于赫尔辛基， 她在那儿遇见了一位来自法罗群岛的化学 her Faroese partner in Helsinki. As a chemist, he had an interest in 家，他对于在北大西洋和挪威海之间偏僻的 the properties of the basaltic volcanic ash found on the remote island 岛链上所发现的玄武岩火山灰深感兴趣。 chain between the North Atlantic Ocean and the Norwegian Sea. 自 2015 年起，她每年都会造访法罗群 Although Halko has been back to the islands every year 岛，但当年的首次游历依然深深地影响着她 since, it was that inaugural trip in 2015 that proved most influ的陶艺制作。当时还在阿尔托大学就读设计 ential to her studies in pottery fabrication. The Aalto University 的 Saija，对法罗群岛上的岩灰在拉坯和烧制 design student became curious about how the Faroese ash she’d 的过程中会产生何种作用十分好 collected would react under the stresses of manipuBY 奇，因此决定将此作为她的学士 lation and firing, and she subsequently made it the KATE NICHOLSON 论文主题。她说道 ： 「由于它是天 subject of her bachelor’s thesis. 然而成的物质，其独特性和未知 “Because it’s a naturally occurring material, it POTTERY BY 性都是制程中的挑战，因此我需 has unique and unknown properties that make it a SAIJA HALKO 要花更多时间在研发上，才能将 challenge to work with,” she explains. “It required a 它做为制陶的原材料。 」在这种实 lot of research and development before I could use 验精神的加持下，她最终创作出结合了陶土 it as a raw material in my ceramics.” Her experimentation ulti及火山灰的、出类拔萃的瓷盘系列 ― Jørđ。 mately led her to create the challenging Jørđ collection of plates 但她也说道 ： 「其实这系列的作品是由无数 made from clay combined with the volcanic ash. “There are a 次失败和仅仅几次的成功淬炼而成。 」 lot of failures and a few successes behind the collection.”

Saija 与 主 厨 Poul Andrias Ziska 合 作， In another tie to the islands, Halko collaborated with Head

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为法罗群岛上首家米其林星级餐厅「Koks」 创作出独一无二的火山岩灰餐具系列。Poul 预先设计好菜式餐点在摆盘时的形式及大 小，但 Saija 仍保有材料及颜色上的自由选 用空间。她表示 ： 「能够创作出与当地环境有 实际连结的作品实在令人兴奋，而与『Koks』 的合作再适合不过了。 」 在 Saija 的硕士论文中，她持续研究北 欧 烹 饪 历 史 及 餐 点 服 务 实 践。 此 外， 她 也 正在为芬兰国家博物馆的餐厅创作一组陶 瓷餐具，其灵感来自博物馆中精心策划的 展览作品。

SAIJA HALKO (2)

Chef Poul Andrias Ziska to create a one-of-a-kind series of volcanic-ash tableware pieces for Koks, the first Faroese restaurant to win a Michelin star. Ziska prescribed the forms and sizes needed in serving the Koks menu, but Halko was given full freedom to explore material and color choices. “It’s exciting to create objects that have a real connection with the local environment, and Koks was the perfect place for this,” she says.

Halko continues to explore Nordic culinary history and food-serving practices for her master’s thesis. And for the restaurant at The National Museum of Finland, she is working on a set of ceramic tableware inspired by artifacts in the institution’s carefully curated collections.

FOOD + DESIGN

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扎根法罗

keeping it faroese A global microbrewery brand preserves the authentic character of its Tórshavn outpost.

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在法罗群岛的首都托尔斯港最古老的城区，矗立 着一幢两层式小巧楼房，这里历尽五百年历史人 文流转，乘载着从低调大门前呼啸而过的亚北极 风。随着 2017 年秋天托尔斯港分店的开幕，丹 麦的精酿啤酒品牌米凯乐悄然踏入这条传统的 时间长廊。 法罗群岛曾在 1908 年颁布禁酒令，直至 1992 年才正式解除，如今正朝着旅游和观光业 的蓬勃发展迈进，现在当地酒吧和餐厅林立， 更 成 立 了 两 家 在 地 啤 酒 酿 造 厂。Mikkel Borg Bjergsø，米凯乐的创办人兼所有人，曾多次造 访法罗群岛，遂开启了和其中一家啤酒酿造厂

Okkara 的合作，进而促使他与满怀创意的法罗 实业家 Johannes Jensen 携手，在岛上最大的城 市中，于一座非凡的建筑物内，共同开设酒吧。 这 栋 由 Johannes 和 Mikkel 选 中 的 久 远 建 筑，现成为米凯乐帝国版图一部分，之前历经两 任屋主。虽然曾有花店店主占据这里的地下室，

RASMUS MALMSTRØM (3)

IN ONE THE OLDEST PARTS OF TÓRSHAVN, capital of the Faroe Islands, is a diminutive two-story house that has seen five hundred years of history, humanity, and howling subarctic winds pass by its unobtrusive front door. Danish microbrewery Mikkeller stepped softly into this timeline of tradition when it opened Mikkeller Tórshavn in the structure in the autumn of 2017.

Despite the fact that the Faroe Islands’ alcohol ban, imposed in 1908, wasn’t lifted until 1992, the country is now home to a flourishing tourism and hospitality industry, including a thriving bar and restaurant scene and two homegrown breweries. Mikkel Borg Bjergsø , founder and owner of Mikkeller, who had visited the Faroes a couple of times, began collaborating with one of these breweries, Okkara. This led to the prospect of opening a bar in partnership with a creative Faroese entrepreneur named Johannes Jensen in a curious little building in the islands’ largest town.

The aged building that Jensen and Bjergsø had chosen for the newest addition to the Mikkeller empire was originally two tiny residences. Although a florist had once occupied the basement and

DESIGN

room in Copenhagen was once part of an industrial shipyard. “We wanted a building with depth and character to match the community and culture,” Pang notes. “It’s safe to say that that makes it one of the most unique and beautiful bars in the world.”

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房子也在近几年成为资源回收据点，但屋子的 结构仍完整地保留下来。墙上原有的装潢、窗 框、屋顶及其原建材等，在丹麦 Scale Design 工作室设计师 Pascale Nemery 的主导下，在 尽量维持建筑原貌的前提下进行翻新工作。 酒吧内有两层楼。因为厨房、暖气、浴室 和员工室都设在隔壁房子，故两层楼的墙面上 没有任何装饰。地板和玻璃窗是新装设的，而 原有的木质建材都在翻新工程中被重新利用。

Johannes 以本地人的角度诠释法罗群岛的传 统，特地为此翻新的空间选用量身订做的家具。 「我们想要创造 米凯乐代表 Pernille Pang 说 ： 既舒适又温暖的氛围，新装潢必须和旧建筑相 互辉映，同时必须展现米凯乐酒吧的风格。 」 米凯乐精酿啤酒品牌秉持当地化的设计 理 念， 足 迹 遍 布 三 十 九 个 国 家。 Pernille 说 道： 「我们无法拿这里的分店和其他分店比较。 我们不喜欢重覆同样的风格，所以致力于让 每 一 家 分 店 都 是 独 一 无 二 的 存 在。 」米凯乐 啤酒吧东京分店落脚在涩谷的红灯区 ；洛杉 矶分店前身是卖轮胎的商店 ；在哥本哈根的 桶陈室 Baghaven 曾是工业修船厂的一部分。 「我们希望能让建筑特色深 Pernille 补充道 ： 度融入当地社群和文化。我们可以骄傲地说， 托尔斯港分店可谓为全世界最独特、最美丽 的酒吧之一。 」

RASMUS MALMSTRØM (5)

the building had recently served as a recycling center, the structure had fortunately retained its traditional facade. Under the direction of Pascale Nemery of the Danish firm Scale Design, the decision was made to keep the exterior as authentic as possible: the architecture of the walls, window frames, and roof, as well as their original materials, were untouched by upgrades.

Inside, the bar fills both stories. With the kitchen, heating system, bathroom, and staff room all located in the house next door, the floor space on both levels is free of interior walls. New flooring and window panes were installed, but almost all of the wooden finishings were reclaimed from the renovation. Jensen, with his local insight into Faroese traditions, was integral in selecting custom-made furniture for the renovated spaces. “We wanted to make it very cozy and warm,” says Mikkeller representative Pernille Pang, “and the new interior had to fit the old building. But, at the same time, it had to be obvious that it’s a Mikkeller bar.”

This localization of the design is in keeping with the brewery’s thirty-nine other establishments around the world. “We can’t really compare it to any other place,” adds Pang. “We don’t like the idea of repeating ourselves, so we strive to make each bar as one-of-a-kind as possible.” Mikkeller’s Tokyo location is in the old red-light district in Shibuya, their LA bar had been a tire shop, and their Baghaven barrel

WINE ART

transylvanian red

罗马尼亚葡萄酒的名气或许比不上其他欧洲 知名品牌，但特兰西瓦尼亚，一个予人无限 遐思的名字，是一块位于罗马尼亚心脏地带 被青山簇拥的地区，此地酿制的葡萄酒也因此

A legendary region of Romania produces wines of fragrant and fruity appeal.

COLUMN AND ART BY SARAH HELLER

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A LT H O U G H R O M A N I A N W I N E S may lack the cachet of more familiar European labels, the evocative name of Transylvania, a region in the heart of Romania that is bounded by lushly forested mountains, lends its wines an irresistible allure. Transylvania’s grapes and wines are intertwined with Romanian history and with the sometimes-turbulent coexistence of the diverse peoples that have made it their home over the past millennia.

A case in point is the fetească neagră (“black maiden”) grape, closely associated with the Black Army of Matthias Corvinus.

This Romanian-born fifteenth-century ruler, who eventually became King of Hungary and Croatia, King of Bohemia, and Duke of Austria, is said to have served fetească neagră wine to his generals after battle.

In contrast to the many semisweet or fully sweet versions of this wine is the dry-style Almásy 496 Fetească Neagră, IG Dealurile Satmarului 2016 from Satu Mare in Northern Transylvania. It begins as a smoky, earthy mantle around a dense heart, which gradually uncoils to reveal juicy and fragrant red fruit with notes of rosebud tea. A whiff of umami lingers throughout. Its mysterious profile and storied heritage are why this is one of the first selections I added to the Almásy Collection of Central European wines.

散发出令人难以抗拒的魅力。一千年来，特 兰西瓦尼亚在不同民族占领下兴衰动荡，而 此地的葡萄及葡萄酒与罗马尼亚历史紧密交 织，也可说是这块土地时代变迁下的产物。 例如，英文名为 black maiden 的 fetească neagră 葡萄就与马加什一世的黑军有密切关 系。马加什一世是十五世纪生于罗马尼亚的 统治者，后来当上匈牙利跟克罗地亚的国王、 波希米亚国王以及奥地利公爵。据传，在打 完仗后，他会将 fetească neagră 葡萄酒赏予 将领们。 此款 2016 年产自特兰西瓦尼亚北部萨 图马雷的 Fetească Neagră 葡萄酒属干型（不 甜） ，与许多半甜型或全甜型的酒款不同。入 口之初，漾出一层紧绕核心的烟熏质感，随 后逐渐向外开展，流露出红葡萄带点玫瑰花 茶调性的香润芬芳，一阵回甘，由内向外萦 绕久久不散。正是图中这款酒如此微妙的风 格与传奇渊源，让我第一个就选中它成为中 欧葡萄酒 Almásy 精选系列的成员。

盛产于罗马尼亚传奇地区 质朴诱人的葡萄酒。

Master of Wine Sarah Heller is a Hong Kong–based wine communicator, designer, and consultant. Here, she visually expresses the character of Almásy 496 Fetească Neagră. 葡萄酒大师Sarah Heller居于香港，是一位葡萄酒传播者、设计师和顾问。 她别出心裁地以艺术形式表达Almásy 496 Fetească Neagră 葡萄酒的风格特色。

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A LEISURELY TWO-HOUR HIKE from Tórshavn, capital of the Faroe Islands, begins with an immediate ascent to a vista point with a panoramic view of the seaside town and the island of Nólsoy beyond the harbor. Alternating between a rocky path and a soft grass trail, the trek takes hikers past ancient cairns, tranquil lakes, and seascapes of the islands to the south and west and then climaxes with a heart-stirring first glimpse of the dark, turf-roofed houses and sheds that make up the picturesque village of Kirkjubøur.

Most visitors are drawn to the settlement’s impressive historic sites, including the ruins of the fourteenth-century Magnus Cathedral and a Viking Age runestone. The village is also home to the oldest still-active church in the Faroe Islands, the twelfth-century Saint Olav’s, and probably the world’s oldest still-inhabited wooden farmhouse, the eleventh-century Kirkjubøargarður.

But, beginning in 2016, the main attraction for culinary enthusiasts suddenly became a village home from which internationally lauded restaurant Koks operated, until its recent move to an old farmhouse in a remote valley near Lake Leynar. While some might find odd the decision to precede a meal costing 1,400 Danish krone ( HKD 1,700) with an hours-long hike across a barren, windswept landscape, head chef Poul

BY MAMIE CHEN

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

从法罗群岛首都托尔斯港开始两小时的闲适漫步，

Rutabaga

一开始先是上坡，随后视野豁然开朗，将海滨城镇

芜菁甘蓝

与港口外的诺尔岛壮丽美景尽收眼底。碎石小径与 柔软的草皮步道相互交错，这趟行程带领旅人行经 古老石堆与静谧湖泊，只见岛屿海景一路向南方与 西方延伸，酝酿已久的高潮最终在初见色泽黑黝、 草皮屋顶的房子与窝棚时戛然而止，绘成一幅如诗 如画的奇尔丘伯乌尔乡村景致。 许多让人叹为观止的历史名胜聚落于此，大 部分游客均是慕名而来。此地的名胜包括十四世纪 的马格努斯大教堂遗迹与维京时代的符文石，法罗 群岛上历史最悠久且仍使用中的、十二世纪伫立至

“The rutabaga is truly a local ingredient that is grown in large numbers and boiled at home. So this is a very Faroese dish, in my opinion, but presented in a completely different way.

“It’s a very intensely flavored dish: you have sweetness from the rutabaga, sourness from fermented gooseberries and pickled pine, and smokiness from the ash of burnt juniper. And the oil of leek tops adds bit of depth to the rutabaga sauce.”

今的圣奥拉夫教堂，以及或许是世界上最古老且仍 有人居住的、建于十一世纪的木制农舍。 不过，从 2016 年开始，美食爱好者造访此地 的主要目标突然变成了某间乡村小屋，这正是享誉

「芜菁甘蓝是货真价实的当地食材，产量很大，是這裡的家常菜， 所以我认为这是一道非常法罗的料理，只是用截然不同的方式呈 现出来。 」

国际的「Koks」餐厅落脚之处。最近「Koks」刚

「这道菜味道很浓烈，芜菁甘蓝本身有甜味，还有发酵鹅莓

搬迁至雷纳湖附近偏远山谷的一间老旧农舍。有些

和腌松子的酸味，以及杜松焦灰的烟熏味，韭葱苗油又为芜菁甘

人或许不解，为何在享用一顿要价高达 1,400 丹麦

蓝酱的味道增添了些许深度。 」

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世界之缘

at the edge of the world The Faroe Islands’ first and only Michelin-starred restaurant delivers the raw essence of the nation’s tradition and culture.

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Poul Andrias Ziska

Andrias Ziska views it as an entirely suitable buildup to a tasting menu that showcases Faroese terroir and is inspired by scents and sights from across the islands.

A case in point is Ziska’s dessert of sorrel ice cream. It is accompanied by a granita that is a pure expression of the aroma of fresh grass crushed underfoot and by crispy lichen that recalls the common sight of lichen-covered rocks.

In earlier courses, Ziska introduces diners to the natural flavors of the products of the land and the surrounding seas, as well as to the intense flavors brought forth by traditional Faroese techniques of fermentation, pickling, salting, and curing.

“One of our strengths,” he says, “is that we can get fish and shellfish so quickly, often within hours and still alive, from the sea and onto the table, so some of our courses focus on their purity and freshness.” He presents a seafood platter of sea urchins, queen scallops, razor clams, and mahogany clams served fresh and raw, without added salt or any preparation beyond cleaning and shucking.

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克朗（相当于 1,700 港币）的珍馐前，需徒步数小时横 越荒芜贫脊、强风凛冽的风景区呢？主厨 Poul Andrias

Ziska 倒认为，这是一份充分展现法罗群岛自然风土， 且灵感处处汲取于岛上气味与景色的品尝菜单，想体 验当中的滋味，这样的铺陈完全合情合理。

Poul 的甜点之一酸模冰淇淋就是其中一个例子。 搭配这道甜点的冰沙，仿似研磨出旅人脚下踩碎青草 的芳香，酥脆苔藓更不禁让人联想到随处可见、覆盖 着满满地衣的石头。 在前几道料理中，Poul 为顾客展现了这块土地与 周遭海洋天然产物的滋味，以及用发酵、卤渍、盐渍、 腌制等法罗群岛传统烹调技法提取出的浓郁风味。 他说 ： 「我们的优势之一就是能快速获取鱼类和贝

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Sorrel ice cream, grass granita, and crispy lichen 酸模冰淇淋、青草冰沙、酥脆苔藓 “This dish more or less recreates the feeling of walking in the mountains. We had been working with the flavors for a while.

“The ice cream is made from sorrel, and the granita is made from grass. Then you have the crispy lichen, soaked in syrup and dehydrated, for a bit of texture and sweetness.” 「这道料理多多少少重现了走在山里的感受，我们花了好一段时间才研制出这样的口味。 」

「冰淇淋是用酸模做的，冰沙用青草制成，然后还有酥脆的苔藓，浸在糖浆里经过脱水， 增添口感和甜味。 」

Ziska believes that the amount of time that lapses between catch and consumption is one of the major factors affecting the texture and flavor of fresh food. In 2016, while running a brief pop-up stint in Salzburg, Austria, he found that the imported sea urchins, though still fresh and alive, had acquired a completely different, more floral flavor profile during transit. “It wasn’t bad,” he says, “but I had to accept that the flavor really, really wasn’t the same. We now know that we can serve these types of fresh courses only here on the Faroe Islands. When we go to other locations, we focus more on technical or traditional courses.”

Many traditional Faroese flavors, however, are acquired tastes, and Ziska must forever tread a fine line to deliver authentic flavors in a manner acceptable to both local and foreign diners. On the other hand, he revels in challenging and provoking his guests.

One of the more interesting courses from a 2017 tasting menu reinterprets and

类，常常几个小时内就可从海里送到餐桌，而且还是 活的，因此我们某些料理强调的就是纯粹与新鲜。 」他 端出一道海鲜拼盘，装满海胆、女王扇贝、竹蛏、红 木蛤，除了清洗去壳以外，完全不加盐或其他制备手 段，是名副其实的生鲜海味。

Poul 认为从捕捞到入口的时间长短，是影响新鲜 食材口感与味道的关键因素。2016 年他在奥地利萨尔 斯堡短暂经营快闪店期间，发现进口海胆尽管鲜活， 却在运送过程中吸取了一种截然不同、比较花俏的味 道。他表示 ： 「这种味道不是不好，但我必须说味道 真的、真的变得不一样了。如今我们知道，唯有在法 罗群岛这里才可能供应制作生鲜料理的食材，餐厅在 其他地方则会更注重技术精致或传统的菜式。 」 the faroe islands

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然而，许多传统法罗口味都是逐渐培 养出来的，Poul 必须随时拿捏分寸，让当 地人与游客都能接受餐厅的道地风味 。但 另一方面，他也乐于挑战顾客，煽动他们的 味蕾。

2017 年的品尝菜单上有一道饶富兴味 的料理，重新诠释并结合了三道传统的法 罗菜 ：甜饼干 góðarað、以羊脂与内脏制 成的香肠 garnatálg、风干发酵的鱼 ræstur fiskur。饼干通常为搭配咖啡食用的午后点 心，另外两种则通常会与马铃薯一起煮。但 「Koks」团队用发酵的羊 在 Poul 的指示下，

combines three traditional Faroese dishes: a sweet cookie called góðarað , a sausage of sheep tallow and innards called garnatálg , and air-dried, fermented fish called ræstur fiskur . The cookie is often enjoyed as an afternoon snack with coffee, and the other two are typically boiled with potatoes. But under Ziska’s direction, the Koks team makes a cream from the fermented lamb tallow, grates the ræstur fiskur on top, and serves it as a smear to go with some uniquely cheese-flavored góðarað.

“The dish works so well because we always get a strong reaction from everyone,” says Ziska. “It’s all twisted for Faroese people – they recognize the cookie but not its flavor, and they recognize the flavor of the tallow and fish, but it looks like a cream with snow on top. For foreigners, the fermented tallow has a very heavy, intense flavor.” If they don’t enjoy the heavy flavor, that’s OK too: “For me, it’s good if people don’t like everything on the tasting menu. I don’t just want to please them, I want to show them something. I like the menu to go up and down.”

Ziska admits that vegetables are not a strength of Kok’s Faroese cuisine, given the limited varieties of produce – such as rutabagas, potatoes, turnips, and rhubarb – that are able to thrive on the islands. Fresh fruits and vegetables, however, are served during their very short season. But the restrictions imposed by the harsh climate also inspire innovative flavors like pickled pine, fermented gooseberries, burnt juniper ash, and leek-top oil. “We have some dishes that are on the menu for one week and then are taken off because we can no longer get enough produce,” he says. “We can’t control it, it’s completely dynamic. But if we want to be a Faroese restaurant, we have to work with what we get.”

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脂做成一种奶油，再将磨碎的鱼铺在上头， 成为搭配特殊奶酪口味 góðarað 的抹酱。 「这道菜非常成功，顾客的 Poul 表示 ： 反馈亦持续热烈。对当地人来说，这整道菜 都不对劲，他们知道这种饼干，却没吃过这 种口味 ；他们认得羊脂和鱼的味道，看起来 却像白雪覆盖的奶油。对游客来说，发酵羊

Bacalao

脂的味道则非常厚重强烈。 」如果游客不喜

盐渍鳕鱼

「我觉 欢太浓烈的味道也没关系。Poul 称 ：

“We’ve also always exported a lot of bacalao, but we’ve 们表达些什么。我喜欢菜单有起伏变化。 」 never really known how to Poul 承认，蔬食不是「Koks」的强项， cook it properly. There was 毕竟这里农产品项有限，大概只有芜菁甘 an old home cooking rule 蓝、马铃薯、芜菁、大黄能在岛上蓬勃生长。 that the fish was done when 尽管如此， 「Koks」在短暂的生长季里仍供 the potatoes were done, so 应新鲜水果和蔬菜，严苛的气候条件限制也 we’d boil white fish for an 激发出不少创意料理，像是腌松子、发酵鹅 hour. When I serve this dish 莓、杜松焦灰、韭葱苗油。他说 ： 「有些料 to Faroese people, they won’t 理只会在菜单上出现一周，原因是产量不足 believe it is bacalao. They 了。这点完全取决于大自然， 我们无法控制。 think it must be fresh cod 但既然我们是一家法罗料理餐厅，就必须接 or something else, but not 受这点，善用既有资源。 」 bacalao.

“We call it ‘salt fish,’ and we have to soak it for about thirty-six hours, changing the water every four hours to remove all the salt. Then we simply steam it.

It’s served with a sauce made from blue mussel stock and crunchy herb stems.” 得如果顾客不喜欢品尝菜单上的所有菜式

也很好。我不是只想取悦他们，而是想向他

「我们也出口很多盐渍鳕鱼，却从不知道如何好好烹调这项食材。有一条 家传烹调法则，就是『马铃薯熟了，鱼就熟了』 ，所以我们会将鳕鱼煮一 小时。我把这道料理端给法罗人时，他们都不相信这是盐渍鳕鱼，都觉得 一定是新鲜鳕鱼或别的，绝不会是盐渍鳕鱼。 」 「我们称它为『咸鱼』 ，必须将它浸泡约 36 小时，每四小时换一次水， 去除所有盐分，然后只用清蒸的，再搭配一种用蓝贻贝和鲜脆香草茎制成 的酱汁食用。 」

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SHAPED BY THE SEA Photographer David Hartung and senior writer Mamie Chen explore how the ocean and the elements have formed a national character.

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TRAVEL

IF EVER A PLACE EMBODIED THE OLD CLICHÉ, “If you don’t like the weather, wait five minutes,” it would be the Faroe Islands. With our planned excursion of the previous day postponed due to high winds, we’re hoping to sail out on the fjords later in the afternoon to observe a langoustine fisherman at work. We’ve already experienced a full cycle of bright sunlight, ominous cloud cover, steady drizzle, light snow flurries, and clear blue skies once again, all within the span of half an hour.

“The weather looks nice,” TK photographer David Hartung offers cheerfully. Our host, Marni Gunnar Simonsen, who lives on the islands and is accustomed to dealing in pragmatism rather than optimism, replies matter-of-factly, “But it might change.”

We’re reminded that in a land where driving winds have been known to blow hard enough to reverse the flow of a waterfall and where dense fogbanks can quickly envelop and disorient seasoned local residents as well as tourists, the Faroese understand and respect the quicksilver changeability of weather better than most.

In fact, people still speak as if it were yesterday of a century-old tragedy in which fifty-four boats were lost in a single storm that seemed to come out of nowhere. “It was a nice day,” says Simonsen, “but the weather changed rapidly, and the storm just hit. There’s not much you can do when the waves are like that. If you attempt to come back to shore, the waves will smash you against the rocks.”

有一句老话 ： 「如果你不喜欢此刻的天气， ，而法罗群岛恐怕是 那就等上五分钟吧 !」 这世界上最能让人体会这句话的地方了。 由于大风推迟了我们前一天的行程，下午 我们更加期盼能在峡湾观察捕捞海螯虾的 渔民。这里天气变幻莫测，我们在仅仅半 小时内历经了灿烂的阳光、密布的乌云、 毛毛的细雨、稀疏的雪花，最后又是万里 晴空。 摄影师 David Hartung 兴致勃勃地说： 「 这 天 气 看 起 来 挺 好 的。 」但接待我们的

Marni Gunnar Simonsen 却毫不讳言地说 ： 「可能会风云变色。 」身为岛上居民，他早 就习惯了实事求是，也不要过度乐观。 有人提醒我们，岛上疾风强到能逆转 瀑布的流向，能使当地居民及游客瞬间被 浓雾包围并失去方向。法罗群岛的岛民对 如此瞬息万变的天气深有体悟并敬重。 岛上居民其实都对一桩世纪前的船难 记忆犹新，当时一场莫名的暴风雨击沉了 「那天原来风 五十四艘船。Marni 回忆道 ： 和日丽，却倏地风色大作，狂风暴雨。面 对滔天巨浪，大伙儿也是进退两难，要掉 头回到岸边根本不可能。在骇浪之中，船 只能撞上礁岩，被击个粉碎。 」 眼见为凭，Marni 带我们到最南端的 the faroe islands

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To illustrate, he takes us to the treacherous landing harbor of Hvalbiareiði on the southernmost island of Suðuroy to bear witness to the waves battering the outcropping of rocks that serve as a makeshift jetty. The seas are relatively calm this day, and modern amenities like a paved path, concrete steps, and a handrail ameliorate the steep, one-hundred-meter descent to sea level. But it isn’t difficult to imagine how perilous an undertaking it once was to land boats and port them up to safety. “As you can see, it’s not a good harbor,” he says.

“But some days, maybe the conditions are better here than on the other side of the island. If weeks went by and the fishermen from Hvalba couldn’t leave from the easier harbor on the east coast, then they had to take their chances here. It’s just part of our fishing story.”

In Viðareiði, the islands’ northernmost settlement, where the climate averages one degree colder than Suðuroy’s and where every storm rages more fiercely, the harsher conditions inevitably influence the culture and identity of its inhabitants. “The people are sturdier,” Simonsen says, “they’re fighters.” Although they represent just 10 percent of the population, their fishermen account for 35 percent of the Faroe Islands’ seafood exports.

The country is made up of eighteen islands separated by narrow channels and expansive fjords. With no spot on the archipelago further than five kilometers from the coast, it follows that the sea has always played a central role in Faroese culture, as both a means of survival and a way of life.

“In the Faroe Islands, at every birthday, every wedding, every funeral, it’s all about fish,” says Simonsen. “With each story, you’re naturally being schooled to understand things.”

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The islands’ fishing industry accounts for well over 90 percent of the total goods and services exported. The surrounding fishing grounds are so rich in marine life, and the fishermen so industrious, that the country’s small population of fifty thousand can bring in an annual catch of six hundred thousand metric tons from around one thousand kilometers of coastline.

It’s a greater production than that of Brazil, which has a population of two hundred million and more than eight thousand kilometers of coastline.

Although the Faroe Islands are located in the subarctic region between Iceland, Norway, and Scotland, they have an unusually temperate climate because of the warm tropical waters of the nearby North Atlantic Current. Even so, the Faroes don’t readily yield much by way of flora and fauna. And what does manage to thrive in the stark landscape and the dauntingly short season must be preserved for consumption during the barren off-season.

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The islands’ dearth of native forests precludes smoking as a method of food preservation, and the prohibitive cost of salt makes salt-curing impractical. Once again, however, the ocean provides, this time in the form of stiff sea breezes. The winds have a high enough salt content to flavor the meat and assist in the drying process without inhibiting fermentation.

A drive through any village reveals scores of Atlantic cod and saithe hanging from the eaves like icicles, half drying and half fermenting into homemade ræstur fiskur . Most farmhouses also have a hjallur , a detached shed purposely built with large gaps between the tar-covered planks that allow ocean winds to blow through and dry the hanging mutton

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南岛，看看汹涌的海浪如何侵蚀岩石，造出地势 险恶的临时港口 Hvalbiareiði。虽然现今的海面 已相对平静，再加上现代化的设施，如铺路、水 泥阶梯和扶手等，缓减了原先百米陡降的地势， 但是依然不难想像过去要让船只安全靠岸停泊是 一件多么困难的事。他称 ： 「正如所见，这不能 说是一座良港，但有时候它的条件仍比岛上另一 侧好。若克瓦尔巴 (Hvalba) 的渔民等了好几周 都无法从东岸的良港出海，他们就从这儿碰碰运

into the pungently fermented delicacies known as ræstkjøt and skerpikjøt . “It’s our version of pata negra ,” laughs Simonsen, conceding that “it is an acquired taste.”

The fact that a society creates specialized words to describe the various stages of decomposing meat – visnað when it is just withered, stadnaður when it is dried on the outside but soft on the inside, and karmoðin when it is fully rotten – itself tells a story of the hardiness of a people capable of enduring the most daunting of conditions.

The Faroese are also a people who know how vital it is to maintain a strong sense of community across the entire archipelago, down to the tiniest and remotest of villages.

Tucked away on the western side of Vágar and cut off from the rest of the island by

气。这仅是我们捕鱼经历的一小部分。 」 在 Viðareiði －岛屿最北端的聚落，平均气 温比南岛低一度，暴风雨也更强劲猛烈，如此 严峻的气候条件不可避免地影响了当地居民的 「人们变得更坚忍，如 文化及性格。Marni 说 ： 战士一般。 」虽然这个聚落的居民只有法罗群岛 总人数的百分之十，但海鲜产品的出口量却占 了群岛的百分之三十五。 法罗群岛由十八个岛屿组成，各岛屿间以 the faroe islands

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towering mountains is Gásadalur, which was once counted among the most isolated of Faroese settlements. Until 2004, this home to a mere sixteen villagers was accessible in any of three hazardous ways: by helicopter through frequently blustery skies, by ferry across choppy waters to a poor landing site, or on foot over an arduous mountain path.

Today, however, Gásadalur is emblematic of the Faroe Islands for more than its photogenic Múlafossur Waterfall. With the explicit purpose of providing for the needs of an acknowledged few, the Faroese government embarked on a fifteen-year, DKK35M project to blast a roadway tunnel through the mountain. “The point is that, in the name of the community, everyone is entitled to be connected,” says Simonsen, whether by mountain tunnel, sub-sea tunnel, bridge, causeway, ferry route, or even government-subsidized helicopter service. “Everyone has to be on the boat.”

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TRAVEL

细窄的海峡及辽阔的峡湾所隔，由于群岛上 完全没有一处超过五公里的陆地，海洋才是 法罗群岛文化中的主角，是生命之道，也是 「在法罗群岛，婚丧 求生之法。Marni 说道 ： 喜庆总是离不开『鱼』 。藉由每次的经历，自 然而然就能体认到这些道理。 」 岛上的渔业占了当地总商品及劳务出口 量的百分之九十以上，因其周围鱼货丰饶的 渔场及辛勤的渔民，仅仅五万人口却能从约 一千公里外的海岸线捕到每年六十万公吨的 渔获量，远远胜过了拥有两亿人口及八千公 里海岸线的巴西。 虽然法罗群岛位处于冰岛、挪威和苏格 兰之间的亚北极区气候带，但由于邻近北大 西洋暖流，所以异常地拥有温和的气候。即 便如此，岛上可食用的花草作物或动物产量 却很少。于是岛民需要未雨绸缪，必须妥善 贮存在土地贫瘠及极短生长季的环境下所获 得的各种食材或资源，以面对非生长季期间 的需求。 岛上天然林业资源贫瘠，炭木稀少，使 人们无法以烟熏的方式来保存食物 ；另一方 the faroe islands

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TRAVEL

面，由于盐的成本过于高昂，以盐渍的方式也行不通。然而，海洋带来的强劲海风含有高盐分， 足以使肉品的味道更鲜美、加速风干却不阻碍发酵过程。 开车经过任何村落都可以见到大西洋鳕鱼及绿青鳕如冰柱般地垂挂于屋檐的景象，都是经半 风干半发酵自制而成的 ræstur fiskur。多数的农舍都设有 hjallur，这是一种独立的特制棚屋，刻 意在焦油漆成的木板间留有大间隙，目的是让海风吹过，使悬挂于屋内的羊肉风干、发酵成为味 「这是我们特有的『伊比利亚火腿』 ， 道浓烈而美味可口的 ræstkjøt 和 skerpikjøt。Marni 笑着说 ： 初尝可能难以接受其味道，但花点时间就会渐渐喜欢上它。 」 这个小社会中，人们还发想了几个特殊字词来形容肉品被逐渐分解的每个过程，visnað 代表 稍稍干萎，stadnaður 表示外干内软，karmoðin 则是完全腐烂，如同比喻人们在面对不同的逆境 时如何依旧保持坚毅与自我。 无论聚落多小或多远，全体岛民都领悟了维系整个群岛社群意识的重要性。Gásadalur 曾被

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视为群岛上最孤立的聚落 之 一， 层 层 山 峦 隔 绝， 隐 匿 在 Vágar 西 侧 的 高 山 上。 在 2004 年以前，这个仅有 十六位村民的村落只能通过 三种惊险途径才能抵达。三 种途径分别为 ：搭乘直升机 横越多风的天空、乘船渡过 波涛汹涌的水面抵达一个蹩 脚的著陆点，以及徒步穿越 艰苦的山路。 现 今，Gásadalur 对 法 罗群岛的象征意义不仅止 于 拍 照 胜 地 Múlafossur 瀑 布。为了满足该聚落少数村 民的公众利益，法罗群岛的 政府着手进行一项十五年的 DKK35M 凿 山 建 隧 道 计 划。

「 重 点 在 于， 以 Marni 说 ： 社会概念的名义，这里的每 个人都有与彼此建立紧密联 系的权利。 」让每个人都成 为「拴在一条绳上的蚱蜢」 的方式有很多，其中包括山 区隧道、海底隧道、桥梁、 堤道、渡轮航线，或是政府 补贴的直升机服务等等。

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SEA CREATURE

海螯虾狂想曲

CONSIDER THE LANGOUSTINE The Faroe Islands’ “langoustine guy” shares his zeal with the world.

M A R N I G U N N A R S I M O N S E N is not a man for half measures, and if we want to be as exacting as he is, we must sample his langoustines by cooking them ourselves, which is certainly no easy task. Simonsen’s langoustines often arrive in Hong Kong and elsewhere around the world drowsy and docile from a fortyeight-hour journey at temperatures low enough to slow their metabolic rate and increase their chances of survival. But in the Faroe Islands, just a short drive from the fjords where they are caught, there’s no need to rouse these paradoxically delicate crustaceans from their frigid lethargy, because here the langoustines are wide awake and fighting mad.

A cacophony of crackling stridulations emanates from a foam shipping box where fifty-four very live langoustines, diminutive cousins of the lobster, squirm against the corrugated dividers of their individual compartments. Strict separation prevents potential territorial disputes between the feisty occupants. And, as we jerk our fingers back from snapping pincers protruding above the partitions, we appreciate how necessary such precautions are.

Reducing stress is Simonsen’s primary objective, and the segregated berths effectively serve to soothe and settle the langoustines by simulating their natural dwellings, narrow burrows dug deep into the soft mud of the seabed, where they retreat tail first, with pincers menacingly extended.

“Langoustines are extremely perishable,” Simonsen says, “much more so than lobsters. Just seeing a langoustine alive is like a miracle.” Not only do they easily succumb outside of their natural environment, but, once dead, their flesh rapidly begins to deteriorate into an unpleasant, mushy mess. As Simonsen points out, any stress they experience further exacerbates matters after death: “I was once served

Marni Gunnar Simonsen 不是个半吊子 的人。若我们希望变得他一样严格苛刻， 就必须自己动手，烹煮他的海螯虾来体 验，而这绝对是个艰巨的任务。Marni 的海螯虾若要运送到香港及世界其他地 方，为减缓代谢速率并提高存活率，它 们必须待在极低温的环境里长达 48 小 时，抵达目的地时已是头昏脑胀，只能 任人摆布。但在法罗群岛，从捕捞海鲜 的峡湾到餐厅只有一小段距离，完全不 需将这些娇嫩的甲壳动物从寒冷的昏睡 中唤醒，因为它们全都清醒得很，还会 生龙活虎地打架呢。 一阵窸窸窣窣的声响，从一只装有

54 只精力充沛海螯虾的保丽龙箱里传 来，它们正各自在被瓦楞纸隔开的空间 里扭动着。海螯虾是龙虾的近亲，必须 强制隔开，以免几只好斗的为争地盘大 打出手。只见隔板上方伸出一只只大螯， 我们猛然将手指抽回，心中不禁对这些 防护隔板的存在满怀感激。

Marni 这么做最主要的目的是减少 海螯虾的压力。在天然栖地的海螯虾会 深入海床软泥挖出狭窄洞穴，然后先把 尾巴放进去，留着大螯在外面防御敌人。 这些隔间近似它们的天然栖地，因此能 有效安抚海螯虾的情绪。 「海螯虾的死亡率非 Marni 表示 ： 常高，比龙虾容易多了，光是目睹一只 活的海螯虾就是奇迹。 」这种虾不只在 天然环境以外的地方 死亡率甚高，而且一 旦死亡，身体很快就

法罗群岛的「海螯虾专卖户」 将热情放送给全世界。

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SEA CREATURE

Marni Gunnar Simonsen

a langoustine that was mushy inside, which means it had been mistreated at some point before it was cooked. They didn’t properly respect it.”

Most distributors opt for a quick chemical fix, dipping the fresh meat into a sodium metabisulfite solution that preserves its original color and texture but leaves behind a faint odor detectable to sensitive palates. Simonsen, however, refuses to compromise on quality. As a former frustrated middleman in the fish-distribution channel who had to field customer complaints, he aspired to do better by supplying a product so perfect that no customer would ever think of raising a criticism against it.

“If I’m going to take on a project,” he says, “then I have to find the most difficult one – and that’s definitely the langoustine. Fifteen years ago, no one believed it could be possible to send live langoustines from the Faroe Islands to virtually anywhere in the world. I was the pioneer.” He built his methodology on the vertical-packing technique originally proposed by a British fisheries officer and improved it a hundredfold through trial and error. “It took me 开始腐坏，变成一团恶心软烂的东 more than two years to crack the 西。如同 Marni 所说，这种虾经历 code and be able to deliver langous的任何压力都会使死后的状况更加 tines with only a 3 percent mortality 恶化， 「我吃过一只里面已糊成一 rate.” 团的海螯虾，表示它在烹调前某个 Although it also took him a few 环节处理不当，处理的人不够尊重 years, Simonsen successfully con它。 」 vinced the local fishermen to adopt 多数商家选择用化学药剂快 his philosophy and techniques. The 速解决这个难题，将新鲜的肉丢进 vast majority of langoustines are 焦亚硫酸钠溶液，保持肉的原色和 caught in nets, where they may be 纹理，但会留下一股淡淡的气味， rolling around for hours before being 敏 感 一 点 的 饕 客 就 吃 得 出 来。 但 hauled into the boats and tossed pellMarni 不 愿 在 肉 质 上 妥 协。Marni mell into large tanks. The fishermen who work with Simonsen, however, exclusively use baited traps that typically catch two or three at a time. As the traps are pulled from the sea, the langoustines are removed, measured

曾经从事渔业经销商，当年为处理 客诉而倍感挫折的他，后来矢志要 扭转这种局面。他要供应最完美无 瑕的产品，无懈可击到没有任何顾 客能提出怨言。 「我若要负责一 Marni 表示 ： 件事，我就要找最困难的来做，海 螯虾就是最难的了。十五年前，没 人相信可以从法罗群岛运送活的海 螯 虾 到 几 乎 世 界 各 地。 我 是 第 一 人。 」他采用了一种原本是英国渔 业官员提案的垂直包装法，后来经 过不断尝试有了大幅改良。他称 ： 「我花了两年多才钻研出这个方法， 」 运送海螯虾的死亡率只有 3%。 the faroe islands

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SEA CREATURE

虽然花了好几年，但 Marni 用这套理念成功说服 了当地渔夫，并将技术传授给他们。绝大多数海螯虾 都是用网捕捞，它们可能在网里翻滚数小时后才被拖 曳到船上，胡乱丢进大水缸里。然而，和 Marni 合作 的渔夫做法不同，他们会特别用有诱饵的捕笼，一次 只捕两至三只，将捕笼从海里拉上来后，会先移出海 螯虾，一只只测量大小，再轻轻将它们从尾巴那端滑 进类似 Marni 运送箱的个别隔间里。 如 果 Marni 发 现 某 艘 船 的 渔 获 死 亡 的 特 别 多， 他会直接到渔夫家里询问 ： 「请详细说明你的作法好 吗？」然后他们会一起分析情况，思考症结所在，找 出解决之道。

Marni 发明了一种聪明的捕虾笼，用 Aquamesh 技术让捕笼的整体重量从十公斤降到一公斤，并且将 笼子做成长方体以方便堆叠。他说 ： 「经过多年证实， 这种笼子比较好用，可减轻渔夫的负担。现在船上笼 子几乎已不会纠缠在一起，一切流程都变得更顺。 」 「关键是为海螯虾创造一个没有压 Marni 解释 ： 力的环境，这要从渔夫开始。如果能为海螯虾营造一 个从船上到世界另一端的餐厅都相同的环境，厨师打 开盒子，就可以看到活的海螯虾，世界任何地方的饕 客就可以如同亲临此地一样，享用刚从船上捞到的新 鲜海螯虾。 」 不 过， 可 不 是 任 何 厨 师 都 有 这 份 荣 幸 能 收 到

Marni 的 海 螯 虾。 事 实 上， 许 多 厨 师 花 上 数 年 费 心 找到他的传闻可谓沸沸扬扬。拉斯维加斯永利酒店 「Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare」餐厅（已停业，现为 「Costa di Mare」餐厅）的主厨 Paul Bartolotta 在贸易 展四处探询，终于遇上了 Marni，又花了两年时间才说 服 Marni 卖海螯虾给他 ；明星厨师 Andrew Zimmern 请《古怪食物》节目的员工花了两年，才寻得如此稀

for size, and gently slid tail first into individual compartments similar to those in Simonsen’s shipping boxes.

If he notes too many dead among a catch from a particular boat, Simonsen drives to the fisherman’s house and asks, “Can you tell me exactly what you did?” Together, they analyze the situation, figure out what went wrong, and find solutions.

Simonsen has invented a superior lobster trap, using Aquamesh to bring the total weight down from ten kilograms to one and constructing it in a rectangular shape for better stackability. “It’s been proven now after so many years that the trap fishes better and with less burden on the fishermen,” he says. “There’s almost no entanglement aboard the boat now, and everything runs more smoothly.

“The key is to create a stressless environment for the langoustines, and it starts with the fishermen. If we can maintain that same level from the boat to a restaurant on the other side of the world, then the chef can actually open the box and pull out a live langoustine. And the guest, who

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有的海螯虾贩售渠道 ；还有一位来自拉脱维亚里加的 厨师，在法罗群岛录制烹饪节目时认识 Marni，现在 为自己的餐厅定期向 Marni 订购海螯虾，更为一个没 有吃海螯虾传统的国家创造了风潮。 「 我 邀 请 厨 师 过 来 看 看， 和 我 聊 聊， Marni 说 ： 为他们介绍海螯虾。我端海螯虾出来时，什么都不说， 只是旁观，看会发生什么事。 」他曾亲眼见到厨师如 同悟道了一般喜极而泣，也曾因为别人不尊重海螯虾 及他的理念而不得不拒绝供应时，目睹过绝望的眼泪。 他表示 ： 「如果你身在法罗群岛如此艰巨的环境，看 到渔夫如此辛苦，有时甚至必须冒着生命危险捕捞， 你就会希望收到海螯虾的人真正心怀感恩。这不仅是 钱的问题，而是感受的问题。 」 厨师 René Redzepi 曾著笔分享他造访法罗群岛， 初次品尝 Marni 的海螯虾的经验。他称，这趟旅程激 发了他的想像，给了他一年后开「Noma」餐厅的信心。 「我们触动了他内心深处吧。我都跟我 Marni 如是说 ： 的渔夫说 ： 『世界上最顶尖的餐厅用的是你们捕的海 螯虾！』 」

Langoustine fisherman Jon Andersen 海螯虾渔夫

may be sitting anywhere in the world, can have an experience as close as possible to getting a langoustine fresh off the boat here.”

The honor of receiving Simonsen’s langoustines is not bestowed on just any chef. Stories, in fact, abound of how chefs through the years have sought him out. Paul Bartolotta, former head chef of Bartolotta Ristorante Di Mare (now Costa di Mare), at Wynn Las Vegas searched high and low at industry trade shows. Once he finally met Simonsen, it took another two years to convince him to sell him his langoustines. Celebrity chef Andrew Zimmern sent his staff from the Bizarre Foods show on a two-year hunt for the elusive langoustine distributor. A chef from Riga, Latvia, who met Simonsen for a culinary show he recorded on the Faroe Islands, now orders langoustines regularly for his restaurant and has actually created a demand in a country that never had a tradition of eating them.

“I tell chefs,” says Simonsen, “‘Come and visit. We’ll

have a chat and you’ll get an introduction to langoustines.’

Then when I serve them, I say nothing – I just watch and see what happens.” Simonsen recalls witnessing chefs weep with joy, as if struck by an epiphany. He has also seen tears of despair when he’s been forced to cut off distribution because of a lack of respect for the product and his philosophy. “When you live in the Faroe Islands’ harsh environment and the fishermen are suffering and sometimes risking their lives, you want to know that those receiving our langoustines really appreciate them,” he says. “It isn’t only about money, it’s about emotions.”

Chef René Redzepi once wrote of visiting the Faroe Islands and of the revelation he experienced when tasting Simonsen’s langoustines for the first time. He credited the trip with fueling his imagination and giving him the confidence to open Noma one year later. “Somehow we had inspired something in him,” says Simonsen. I tell my fishermen, ‘The world’s best restaurant is using your langoustines.’” the faroe islands

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INGREDIENTS

SUBARCTIC SPECIALTIES The Faroe Islands are blessed with some of the planet’s most prized culinary resources, premium seafood products that are exported around the world.

One of Hong Kong’s most illustrious chefs makes the most of an array of species that thrive in the archipelago’s pristine waters.

BY INARA SIM

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

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AT UWE, his new restaurant on Hollywood Road in Sheung Wan, Chef Uwe Opocensky says it’s all about freshness: “We have a set menu that changes seasonally and is completely dependent on the availability of fresh ingredients. By having just one menu, we can really focus on giving the best experience to the guest by serving them food that we believe is right for right now.”

Opocensky was first exposed to ingredients from the Faroe Islands in Hong Kong four years ago when he participated in an event with the famous Copenhagen restaurant Noma. “They obviously use a lot of ingredients from the Faroe Islands,” he says, “and did so for that event, so I got to know the local supplier here. And once you’ve had langoustines from the Faroe Islands, you can’t go back!”

The chef and the supplier now have a long-standing relationship. “I don’t tell him what I want, I think that’s the wrong way around,” he says.

“The supplier should be the one saying, ‘I’ve got this and this and this.’

It’s a much more natural way, and I think it’s the way it should be. We should be at the mercy of the ingredients, not the other way around.” 法罗群岛有幸拥有许多地球上最珍贵的食材资源。该地位置偏远，澎湃海 流使周边海域水质保持鲜活，在这得天独厚的环境下，各种供出口的海产 得以繁盛生长。 在上环荷李活道一家新开张的餐厅「Uwe」 ，主厨 Uwe Opocensky 强 调烹饪最重要的秘诀就是新鲜 ： 「当季的新鲜食材更替，我们的时令套餐 紧随之变化。正因为我们只提供一份餐单，我们更能专注于提供最『对时 对味』的料理，为客人带来无可比拟的用餐体验。 」

Uwe 四年前与知名的哥本哈根餐厅「Noma」出席了一场活动，那 是他第一次在香港接触到来自法罗群岛的食材。他说 ： 「显然他们使用许 多来自法罗群岛的食材，在那次活动中也不例外，因而我也结识了当地供 应商。一旦吃过法罗群岛的海螯虾，就会感慨『曾经沧海难为水』 。 」 如今 Uwe 和供应商维系长期的合作关系，他说 ： 「我不会指名需要 什么食材，而是由供应商告诉我，他们最近有哪些食材可以供应，如此才 合乎自然规律。食材是主，我们是客，我们的饮食应该取决于食材，而非 反客为主。 」

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鲑鱼

SALMON 

WHEN IT COMES TO A FAROESE SALMON, Chef Opocensky takes the nose-totail approach and uses literally every part of this premium fish. The roe is washed in sake to make a mouthwatering caviar. The upper part of the fillet is made into sashimi and is also grilled. The belly becomes salmon confit through slow-cooking in butter and the fish’s natural fats. The trimmings are chopped into a tartare, and the head, collar, and tail are grilled. And it doesn’t stop there: “We also take the guts of the fish and ferment them. The end product is garum , an ancient sauce with a very rich flavor somewhere between soy sauce and fish sauce.”

主厨 Uwe 抱持物尽其用的原则「从鼻吃到尾」料理 整条法罗鲑鱼。鱼卵以清酒冲洗后制成令人垂涎三 尺的鱼子酱 ；上半部的鱼肉做成生鱼片及炙烧鲑鱼 ； 鱼肚则以奶油及天然鱼油慢炖制成油封鲑鱼 ；碎边 部分剁成生鲑鱼块，再炙烤剩下的鱼头、鱼下巴和 「我们也将鱼内脏发 鱼尾。不仅如此，Uwe 还说 ： 酵后制成 garum 鱼酱，这是一种味道浓厚的传统酱 汁，口感介于酱油和鱼露之间。 」

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海螯虾

LANGOUSTINES 

“THE BEAUTY OF THIS INGREDIENT,” explains Opocensky, “is that you do as little to it as possible, because it’s already stunning.” The shellfish arrive at the restaurant live, a practice that the chef hasn’t seen anywhere else in Hong Kong. He quickly blanches it to remove the shell before grilling one side only – just enough to get some heat through the meat – and then serves it with an emulsion of egg yolk and seaweed. Opocensky always advises guests to eat langoustines with their hands: “Cutlery just gets in the way. It has a much nicer taste when you just pick it up and eat.” 「这食材的奥妙在于要尽量保持它的原味，因为本身的味道就很出色。 」这类食 Uwe 解释 ： 材都是以新鲜活体的方式送达餐厅，这种方式在香港只此一家。他迅速将其汆烫并去壳， 然后单面炙烧，让火温稍稍穿透即可，最后淋上蛋黄海藻慕斯酱摆盘上桌。Uwe 总是建议 客人徒手直接吃，他说 ： 「餐具太碍事了，直接用手拿起来吃更津津有味。 」

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INGREDIENTS

THE LONGEST-LIVING species in Opocensky ’s kitchen is the mahogany clam, which spends its life buried in underwater sand and can survive for centuries.

“Fishermen in the Faroes collect these clams by hand,” he says. “Since they move with the sea and the currents, sometimes the fishermen can find them and sometimes they can’t.” The rings on the shells, averaging around two hundred, indicate how many years they’ve lived. For this dish, the chef makes a tartlet shell from seaweed and milled emmer, an ancient grain. The clams are cooked in stock, which is reduced to purée consistency and used to cover the bottom of the tart. Delicate slices of the clam go on top, along with a garnish of sturgeon leaves and watercress.

Uwe 厨房中最长寿的生物就是北极蛤，一生 都埋藏在水下的沙泥中，足以存活好几个世 纪。他说 ： 「法罗群岛的渔民亲手采集这些蛤 蜊。它们会随着大海和海流移动，因此有时 渔民可以找得到，有时却又徒劳无功。 」平均 而言，这些蛤蜊外壳上都有约两百条环型纹 路，代表着生长的年数。为了这道菜，主厨 先用海藻和磨碎的二粒小麦（某种古麦）制 作塔皮外壳，再以高汤熬煮北极蛤至如泥状 的浓稠度，做为馅料覆盖塔皮底部，其上再 铺以细嫩的蛤肉片，最后以鲟鱼叶和西洋菜 点缀。

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北极蛤

MAHOGANY CLAM  the faroe islands

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马贻贝

HORSE MUSSEL  GRO WING UP to twenty centimeters in length, many horse mussels from the Faroe Islands live for more than twenty-five years, with some surviving for fifty. “The size of these mussels really corresponds to their age,” says Opocensky. “They are just huge, like no mussel you’ve seen before, and with an exceptionally buttery taste.” The chef sweats them with onion and garlic to open the shell and then deglazes with white wine before taking out the meat. Unlike their smaller counterparts, these mussels can’t be eaten whole. Opocensky removes the digestive tract and ligaments before cooking. The rest of the meat and the other organs are cleaned, chopped, cooked much like a bolognaise in fresh tomato sauce, and served in the shell atop edible “sand.” 法罗群岛所产的马贻贝能长到二十公分长，许多能活 到超过二十五年，有些甚至能活到五十年。Uwe 说 ： 「贻贝的大小与它的生长年份成正比。它们的大小惊 人，极少人见过如此大的贻贝，而且还意外地有着奶 油般的口感。 」主厨用大蒜和洋葱让马贻贝出水并开 壳，再用白酒收汁后取出贻贝肉。不像其他较小的贻 贝，这种马贻贝不能整个吃，所以 Uwe 在料理前会 去除它的消化道及韧带，接着清洗及刀切处理剩下的 贝肉及内脏，然后放入新鲜番茄酱汁中煮成如意大利 肉酱，最后盛入贝壳摆盘，搭配可食用「沙子」便大 功告成。

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海螺

SEA SNAILS 

INGREDIENTS

EXTRACTING A SEA SNAIL from its shell is not a difficult procedure, but it does require some patience. To uncoil it, Opocensky gently spikes the meat and gingerly rolls it out, being careful not to rip the delicate flesh that spirals into the inner shell and contains the liver. The front part of the meat, with a firm texture, is cooked in stock and served whole. The liver is puréed with stock and Japanese cream to create an emulsion infused with garlic, herb, and seaweed, which comes to the table served in the shell. “I wanted this green sauce to be reminiscent of the traditional escargot,” says the chef. “Plenty of garlic and herbs and that really rich taste.”

Amila, Director of Social Media, Scandinavian Group and Chef Uwe Opocensky

Chef Opocensky’s extraordinary dishes were created with seasonal, straight-fromthe-ocean products from the Faroe Islands supplied by Scandinavian Group, premium distributors of Scandinavian specialty foods to Greater China and Southeast Asia.

Scandinavian Group works closely with carefully selected suppliers who value food safety, food-production-quality systems, environmental efficiency, and animal welfare.

For adventurous travelers looking for that something special, Scandinavian Group also organizes small-group culinary discovery tours to the Faroe Islands and throughout Scandinavia.

要把螺肉从壳中挑出来并不困难，但

主厨 Uwe 运用法罗群岛直送的新鲜当季食材炮制出一道道不同凡响的料理。食材来自经

是 需 要 耐 心。Uwe 轻 轻 地 刺 入 螺 肉，

销商 Scandinavian Group，该集团专门分销斯堪的纳维亚半岛国家特产至大中华地区及

再缓缓地将它翻出来，同时留心不要

东南亚。Scandinavian Group 严选供应商，与重视食品安全、生产及品质体系、环保效

撕裂或划破壳内包覆着肝脏的细嫩螺

益和动物福利的供应商密切合作。此外，Scandinavian Group 也会为热衷尝鲜的冒险家

肉。前端的螺肉口感扎实，以高汤烹

订制少人数的旅行团，前往法罗群岛和斯堪的纳维亚半岛发掘当地的美味传统。

煮后直接上桌。肝脏加入高汤和日本 奶油捣成泥状，再加入大蒜、香草和 海藻拌成慕斯酱，最后舀入螺壳即可。 主厨说 ： 「我希望这绿色酱料让人想起 传统的法式蜗牛。大量的大蒜和香草 增添了不少风味。 」

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PRESENTED BY KRUG

蓝海余韵

inspiration from the sea Setting sail from the coast of Mallorca, twelve well-known chefs seek ideas for original fish dishes to pair with Krug’s renowned Champagnes.

BY OLIVIER KRUG SIXTH GENERATION OF THE KRUG FAMILY AND DIRECTOR OF THE HOUSE OF KRUG, ADAPTED FROM THE BOOK KRUG X FISH: TAILS OF THE SEA .

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY IES OTHERS

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THE ESSENCE OF EVERY GLASS of Champagne is pleasure. This was the understanding of my ancestor Joseph Krug, a non-conformist whose uncompromising philosophy and heritage it is my honour to uphold. He dreamt of offering the very best Champagne, every single year, regardless of variations in climate – a dream he brought to life in Krug Grande Cuvée, the fullest expression of Champagne.

Throughout its history, Krug has been bringing people together for unforgettable moments. Wherever a bottle of Krug is shared, it possesses a wonderful ability to connect. There are no rules, no required expertise – simply shared pleasure. Nowhere is this truer than in our Krug Ambassades around the world, which are the setting for memorable sensory encounters. Their chefs are Krug lovers to the very core, connected by their mutual passion for Krug Champagnes but also by an adventurous spirit, creativity, and independence that echo those of my great-great-great-grandfather.

Spurred on by their shared values, the Krug Ambassade Chefs profiled here came together in search of the finest fish with which to create some exquisite pairings. As a passionate amateur fisherman myself, it was a pleasure to see these gastronomic greats team up with local fishermen and take to the sea together.

Inspired by their experience and the catch of the day, they created a multitude of captivating dishes. Their adventure and the culinary symphony that follows are testament to the bold creative exchanges fostered by Krug and the precious bond between the House, Krug Ambassade Chefs and Krug lovers everywhere.

每一杯香槟的本质都是愉悦。这句话来自我的祖先

Joseph Krug，一位不按常理出牌的先行者。对于能传承他 绝不妥协的处事哲学和传统，我感到非常荣幸。他的梦想 是即使在捉摸不定的气候条件下，每年都酿出最高品质的 香槟。他为这个梦想用尽一生，最后酿出香槟中的王者－

Krug Grande Cuvée。 在历史的进程中，Krug 香槟和许多人一起创造难以 忘怀的瞬间。不论何时，只要一起分享 Krug 香槟，就能 让人与人之间的距离更靠近。无既定规则，不需专家指引， 只为了分享单纯的喜悦。在 Krug 大使餐厅最能感受到无 上的真诚，他们致力让顾客体验美好的感官享受，留下珍 藏的回忆。餐厅主厨们皆为 Krug 的忠实粉丝，对 Krug 香 槟满怀热情，个个充满冒险精神、天马行空的创意和独立 思考的能力，和我天祖父的理念不谋而合。 谨记 Krug 的理念互相鞭策， 身为 Krug 大使的主厨们， 聚集在此以创造出完美搭配 Krug 酒品的创意鱼料理。而 我身为一位充满热情的业余渔人，能见证这些顶尖料理主 厨和当地渔夫一起出海，是我莫大的荣幸。主厨们藉由自 身技术和当日的现捕渔获，创造出一道道让人深深着迷的 料理。他们的探险和烹饪编织出的美味交响曲，是受 Krug 激发而创作出大胆且创新料理的最好证明，更将 Krug 酒 庄、Krug 大使和全世界 Krug 香槟迷的心紧密相连。

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You have to eat and cook a lot of fish to know what it pairs best with and what will make it shine. 你必须要品尝且烹饪过许多不同种类的鱼，才能 知道如何搭配最合适、最能让食材尽显特色。 JORGE MARTIN DEL CAÑIZO DANI GARCÍA RESTAURANTE, MARBELLA, SPAIN

The ocean offers us a plethora of beautiful flavors and I wanted to express that harmonious combination of different elements. 海洋孕育了取之不尽的好滋味， 而我想表现出不同元素交织而成的和谐。 DICK MIDDELWEERD DE TREESWIJKHOEVE, WAALRE, NETHERLANDS

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I like being in contact with the entire fish: seeing it, studying it, tracing it with a knife like a surgeon. It reminds me that each animal is different and needs to be treated differently.

I think of a flavor or ingredient, then another, then another, and see if it works. 我通常会想到一种味道或食材，然后联想到其他， 其他，再试试看会否成功。

我喜欢与整条鱼接触 ：看它、研究它、像外 科医生一样解剖它。这总是在提醒我每种生 物都有不同，要以不同的方式对待它们。 OLIVIER DEBOISE MÉNDEZ LA TABLE KRUG, MEXICO CITY, MEXICO

HEIKO NIEDER THE RESTAURANT, ZURICH, SWITZERLAND

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The trick is to make even the simplest of foods sing, and this is the challenge I gave myself for this dish. 我的秘诀在于让最简单的食物也能发光发 热，这是我在创作这道料理时给自己的挑战。 DOMENICO SORANNO LANGOSTERIA, MILAN, ITALY

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The most exquisite experience I have ever had was dining on flaked Matsuba crab with strained pufferfish milt and topped with caviar, alongside a glass of Krug Rosé. 我有过最精致的用餐体验是一边品尝 松叶蟹肉和难得一见的河豚鱼白佐 鱼子酱，一边啜饮 Krug Rosé。 HIROYUKI KANDA KANDA, TOKYO, JAPAN

This dish is a direct link to my English heritage. As a young boy, my favorite fish to eat was a stunning piece of cod. 这道料理是为了向我的英伦背景致敬。我小时候最喜 欢的鱼料理是鳕鱼，一小块便让人齿颊留香。 RYAN CLIFT TIPPLING CLUB, SINGAPORE

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六位香港的 大使自西班牙的航海历险归来， Krug 分享探索而来的宝藏，那就是与 Krug 香槟搭配的鱼类料理。

PRESENTED BY KRUG

FISHING FOR COMPLEMENTS Hong Kong’s Krug Ambassades return from their own seafaring adventures in Spain and share their explorations in pairing Krug Champagnes with a single featured ingredient, fish.

BY MAMIE CHEN PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

•

THE STORY DIDN’T START IN AUGUST, when the six notables, named by Krug as Ambassade Chefs, were interviewed by TK .

The topics were their work and the dishes they’d been invited to create for the House of Krug’s annual exploration of pairings of Krug Champagnes with single featured ingredients, in this case, fish.

And the story didn’t start in February, when a dozen Krug Ambassade Chefs from around the world converged on the docks of the Spanish port of Cala Figuera on Mallorca. There they boarded fishing boats to try their hands at reeling in a catch and later worked their magic in the kitchen, all of which was duly documented in a fascinating book called Krug x Fish: Tails of the Sea .

The story actually started a hundred and seventy-five years ago, when Joseph Krug founded a Champagne house based on the vision of producing a prestige cuvée each and every year, regardless of the vagaries of weather. Ever since, this remarkable achievement has required the highly skillful blending of wines from each current vintage with those from previous years to create a complex and well-rounded Champagne worthy of the name Krug Grande Cuvée.

In another break with tradition, Krug believed that each vineyard, and even each plot within a vineyard, was capable of expressing its own character and personality. He paid respect to those distinctions by vinifying every parcel of grapes separately. the faroe islands

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In that way, Krug was able to taste the still wines individually, identify their unique flavors and aromas, and include them as discrete elements in the final recipe of Krug Grande Cuvée.

Joseph Krug’s core principles remain in place today. Cellar master Eric Lebel currently has at his disposal about two hundred and fifty wines from this year’s harvest as well as a library of one hundred and fifty reserve wines from fourteen previous years.

Like a conductor drawing forth a range of tones and timbres from a variety of instruments in a symphony orchestra, Lebel can pinpoint the exact vintages and vineyards he requires to complement the desired harmony, complexity, and richness of the final expression.

Over the years since Krug began asking their Ambassade Chefs to pair Krug Champagnes with a single ingredient, some of them have been more challenging than others. This year’s selection delighted chefs by opening up a literal ocean of possibilities. With adventurous élan, they matched the generous, full expression of Krug Grande Cuvée with stunning gourmet creations and the daring spirit of Krug Rosé with some delightfully unexpected flavors.

八 月， 六 位 名 厨 被 Krug 酒 庄 任 命 为 品 牌 形 象 大 使， 但 这 并 不 是 本 文 的 开 端。 这 次 TK 邀 请 他 们 聊 聊 自 身 的 工 作， 以 及 此 次 受 邀 为 Krug 香 槟 酒 庄 的 年 度 料 理 探 索 所 创 作 的 新 菜 式， 挑 。

选 出 的 食 材 必 须 搭 配 Krug 香 槟， 而 这 次 的 主 题 是「 鱼 」 故事也不是从二月开始，那时十余位来自全球各地的 Krug 大 使齐聚西班牙的马略卡岛，在卡拉菲格拉港登上渔船，试着亲手 捕捞渔获，之后在厨房大显身手，这一切都详实记载在《Krug x

Fish: Tails of the Sea》一书中，内容引人入胜。 Joseph Krug 创立这间香槟酒庄时抱着远大的宗旨 ：无论天气或 风土状况如何，每年都要生产一种特酿酒。要达成这项惊人成就， 就得将今年生产的佳酿和稍早年份的酒加以混合，调制出口味多样 又丰富的香槟，以求无愧于「Krug Grande Cuvée」的美名。

Joseph 还有一项突破传统的做法。他相信每一座葡萄园，甚至 葡萄园中不同的土地，皆能传达出各自的个性和性情。他尊重这 些特色，因此每一块土地上的葡萄都单独酿造成酒，如此一来，

Joseph 就能逐一品尝这些无泡葡萄酒的滋味，辨别出每种酒的风 味和香气，最后再将它们与旗下的香槟混酿。 直到今日，酒庄仍奉行 Joseph 的大原则。目前酒窖主管 Eric Lebel 手上大概有今年生产的 250 种葡萄酒，再加上可溯至 14 年 前的 150 种陈年窖藏葡萄酒。正如交响乐团的指挥懂得从许多种乐 器里面，引出各种不同的音质和音色，Eric 也能够从各葡萄园或各 年份的佳酿中精确挑选，进而调制出充满和谐、丰富与多样性的好 酒。

Krug 酒庄数年来邀请旗下的品牌大使为特定食材搭配适合的香 槟，某些挑战显然更具难度。今年的选项开启了犹如大海般辽阔的 可能性，让主厨们欣喜不已。主厨们个个跃跃欲试，打算用口味浑 厚饱满的 Krug Grande Cuvée，搭配滋味迷人的菜式，另以深具大 胆精神的 Krug Rosé 玫瑰香槟，搭配口感独到的佳肴。

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What’s the best meal you’ve ever had?

那顿饭应该出自我祖母之手。我虽身为专

What’s the most surprising dish you’ve ever served your guests?

在厨师生涯中，你最惊喜的出品是什么？

We braise fish maw in a fish broth. Then at tableside, we cover it with a sauce made from the emulsification of butter and the natural collagen from the fish maw, along with caviar, chives, and quinoa.

So we’ve combined a very Chinese ingredient with a very French technique, and, multiplied together, we ended up with something that no one has ever tasted before.

有一次，我们先在鱼汤中焖煮鱼肚，之后

How did you find your own voice and vision as a chef?

When I acknowledged not only that I’m Canadian, but that I was born in Hong Kong and am proud to be a Hong Konger. That’s when I realized how important it was for me to do this Chinese x French cuisine, where I merge all the knowledge I have from classical French training with the Chinese ingredients I find here in Hong Kong. It speaks loudly of myself and of my culture, and it has a strong connection for most of my guests that dine with us.

I open a bottle of Krug…

Because I want to. I don’t limit myself to special occasions. Every day is a celebration. I might say I’m happy today, so let’s share a bottle of Krug and enjoy it together.

Are you a hunter, gatherer, or fisher?

A fisher. Growing up in Canada, where summer isn’t very long, my friends and I would be out fishing almost every weekend the moment it hit in June. I was always floating in the middle of the lake, and I always kept three fishing rods and a big tackle box in the trunk of my car for days when we just ran across a lake, pulled over, and started fishing.

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你至今吃过最好吃的一餐是？

It would be a meal cooked by my grandma. Even though I’m a professional chef, she uses techniques I still don’t really understand. I recently had to recreate her shi zi tou , Shanghai-style lion’s-head meatballs. She lives in New York, so I spent many hours with her on the phone talking about it. In the end, I think it turned out really well and I think my grandma would have been proud – it was at least 90 percent there.

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业厨师，却还是不太懂她运用的技巧。我 最近改良她拿手的「狮子头」 ，一道以肉 丸为主的知名上海菜。祖母目前住在纽约， 所以我们花了好几个小时通话，谈的全是 这道菜。最后结果挺不赖的，至少有九成 像，我想祖母应该倍感骄傲吧。

端到餐桌上，淋上乳化奶油制成的调味酱 和鱼肚分泌出的天然胶原蛋白，再加上鱼 子酱、细香葱和藜麦。我们用法式烹饪技 巧来处理道地中国食材，而两者间的相应 变化，就成就了一道前所未有的菜式。

身为厨师，你如何发掘个人观点及愿景？ 当我意认到自己不只是加拿大人，因为我 在香港出生，更以身为香港人为荣，那一 刻我才明白，做出中、法合璧的料理对我 来说有多么重要。我可以运用传统的法国 料理技巧，来烹调在香港找到的中国食材。 我的个性和文化背景在料理中展露无遗， 也深深引起顾客的共鸣。

我打开一瓶 Krug 香槟 …… 因为我想喝。我认为不只限特殊场合才喝。 每天都值得庆祝。我会说今天真高兴，咱 们开一瓶 Krug 香槟来享用吧。

你是猎人、采集者还是渔人？ 渔人。我在加拿大长大，当地的夏天很短， 每逢六月感受到夏季热浪，我跟几个朋友 几乎每周末都会去钓鱼。我经常在湖中央 漂浮，车上也常备三支鱼杆和一个装有钓 鱼装备的大箱，以便我们路过湖边时，可 以随时停车钓鱼。

VICKY CHENG

VEA

PRESENTED BY KRUG

DISH CONCEPT

This is inspired by a very famous Sichuan dish called suan cai yu, a sour-cabbage fish. The Sichuan dish would never use pomfret, but it’s a very popular fish in Hong Kong. And the silver pomfret that I use is the most prestigious one. It has a meaty texture with a bold flavor that is complemented by the acidity of house-fermented cabbage, the spiciness of our house-made chili oil, and the umami of a French-style sauce made from the fish bones. 这道菜是受到名闻遐迩的川菜「酸菜鱼」所启 发，是加上酸白菜的鱼料理。川菜从来不用鲳 鱼，但香港人爱吃鲳鱼 ；何况我选用最顶级的 白鲳，肉质腴厚肥美，风味鲜明，再结合自家 腌白菜的酸味、自家酿造辣油的辣味，以及鱼 骨熬成的法式酱汁的鲜味，堪称绝妙。

WINE PAIRING

Krug Rosé The Krug Rosé does more than hold its own against the spiciness of this dish. In fact, the acidity balances the heat of the chili while amplifying the underlying flavors.

Krug Rosé 不光是抗衡这道菜的辛辣而已。事 实上，它的酸度平衡了这道菜中辣椒的灼热口 感，也突显了其他细微的味道。

MUSIC PAIRING

“One Night in Beijing” by Shin This dish was inspired by my recent trip to Beijing. 我前阵子去了趟北京，才有了这道菜的灵感。

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Crispy silver pomfret paired with house-fermented cabbage, fish bone broth, Sichuan peppercorn and chili oil, and accompanied by a fennel and citrus salad 脆皮鲳鱼配自制酸菜、 鱼骨高汤、四川胡椒及辣 椒油，佐茴香和柑橘沙拉

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UWE OPOCENSKY

UWE

What’s the best meal you’ve ever had?

I’ve been very lucky to have eaten some amazing meals, so it would be unfair to mention just one. But for me, it’s always the same factors: time, location, and company. It’s about the memories and the emotions involved. And for me, Krug has been a perfect partner in those moments.

How did you find your own voice and vision as a chef?

At some point as I got older, it just kicked in. I started to realize what I wanted to do and how I wanted to express myself. Somehow, I’ve developed a reputation for always creating dishes that are different.

But I’m still evolving. My style has changed quite dramatically, even from just two years ago. The playfulness will always remain, but the ingredients will shine more brightly on their own than they might have in the past.

I open a bottle of Krug…

提其中一道不太公平。但对我而言，主要 考量始终是时间、地点和一起用餐的人。 重要的是回忆和其中激发的情感。Krug 香 槟可说是这些美好时刻的最佳拍挡。

身为厨师，你如何发掘个人观点及愿景？ 在我日益成熟的某个时间点，突然就有了 想法。我开始明白自己想做什么，以及想 要如何表达自己。曾有某段时间，大家都 认为我经常做不同的创新菜肴，但我还在 摸索、演变。我的风格变化剧烈，这也不 过是两年间的事。趣味依旧，但食材表现 比过往更突出。

我打开一瓶 Krug 香檳 ...... 任何时候都可以。人生苦短，我想好好享

If you could take a one-year sabbatical, what would you do with your newfound time?

如果你有一年带薪休假，你会怎么运用这 段多出来的时间？

I would never take a sabbatical, because I just love cooking too much. But I would like to travel. There are a lot of cultures and foods that I’d love to experience more. I’d spend more time with my family.

And I’d listen to music and drink Krug.

我不会接受一年的带薪休假，因为我太爱

I think I’m more of a gatherer. I like the idea of doing things and picking things out with my hands. |

我很幸运吃过一些非常好的餐点，所以只

Whenever I can. Life is too short and I want to enjoy it. When I open something, I want to make sure it has meaning, and Krug has given me a lot of fond memories over the years.

Are you a hunter, gatherer, or fisher?

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你至今吃过最好吃的一餐是？

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受。当我打开某样东西， 我想确定它有意义。 这些年来，Krug 带给我许多愉快的回忆。

烹饪了。但我想去旅行，有许多文化和食 物，我都很想去探索体验。我也会多花点 时间陪家人，听听音乐，喝 Krug 香槟。

你是猎人、采集者还是渔人？ 我想我更像采集者吧。光是想到动手做事、 亲自挑选货品，我就觉得高兴。

PRESENTED BY KRUG

Moroccan-inspired sea bass tagine with dates, figs, smoked paprika, cumin, saffron, and turmeric. 摩洛哥塔吉锅海鲈鱼配红 枣、无花果、烟熏红椒粉、 小茴香、藏红花及姜黄

DISH CONCEPT

I really enjoy cooking with a tagine. It’s a wonderful way of putting all the ingredients inside and letting the cookware do its magic. This dish is a Moroccan-inspired tagine with a lot of spices and fruits cooking inside along with the sea bass.

The steam circulates around until you lift the lid to release all the aromas. 我非常喜爱用塔吉锅煮食物，可以把所有食材统统丢 进去，静待锅子施展魔法。这道菜受到摩洛哥塔吉锅 的启发，加上许多香料和水果，跟海鲈鱼一起烹煮。 水蒸气噗噗地冒出来，最后掀开锅盖释放所有的香气。 WINE PAIRING

Krug Rosé I thought straightaway about Krug Rosé because I’ve had this conversation many times with Olivier Krug. He loves sea bass and thinks it’s a great fish to go with Krug Rosé. It also pairs well with spice. So a dish that brings together the elements of sea bass, Moroccan spices, figs, and honey would go incredibly well with Krug Rosé. 我马上想到 Krug Rosé，因为我跟 Krug 酒庄的老板

Olivier Krug 讨论过许多回。他喜欢海鲈鱼，也认为这 道菜配上 Krug Rosé 实在没话讲，搭香料也很合适。 这样一道让海鲈鱼、摩洛哥香料、无花果和蜂蜜融合 无间的菜肴，佐以 Krug Rosé 最恰当不过了。 MUSIC PAIRING

“Galvanize” (feat. Rejjie Snow) by Pete Tong and The Heritage Orchestra and Jules Buckley This song is actually on the playlist that I was listening to as I was preparing this morning. It’s house music that has some elements of trance. 我今早下厨时听着的播放清单上就有这首歌，曲子属 于电子乐的浩室音乐，亦带有出神音乐的元素。

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GUILLAUME GALLIOT

CAPRICE

How did you find your own voice and vision as a chef?

After having lived fifteen years here in Asia, my palate has become virtually half-Asian. And the Asian touches you see in my dishes are a natural reflection of that influence. It is this cross-cultural experience that has helped establish my identity as a chef.

What’s the best meal you’ve ever eaten?

For fish, I love Gérald Passedat’s restaurant Le Petit Nice in Marseilles. I was visiting Montpellier with my old boss and told him he really needed to try it. So we drove two hours there to have dinner. We stayed overnight and the next day drove an hour and a half to another restaurant. That was only OK, so I said, “Let’s go back to Gérald’s for lunch.” So we drove back, had lunch, and then returned to Montpellier. It was brilliant!

What’s the most surprising dish you’ve ever served your guests?

The Alaskan snow crab salad with laksa foam that my team presented at the Michelin Guide gala dinner in Macau. We were enjoying laksa in the casino when I had the idea, “we should try to create something out of this gravy sauce.” Then we went back to the kitchen and tried it. It took us one month to finalize the dish. I like to share this dish with visiting chefs, and they tell me it’s one they remember.

I remember my first taste of Krug…

It was in 2004 at Raffles Singapore. I remember it was very rich with a long-lasting finish. In food, I know I have a winning dish when the flavor continues even after eating a couple bites. I view wine and Champagne the same way. I remember thinking, “Wow, what’s that? Ahh, Krug.”

Are you a hunter, gatherer, or fisher?

Some have said I have the patience and delicacy required of a fisher, but also a bit of the character of a hunter.

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身为厨师，你如何发掘个人观点及愿景？ 我在亚洲住了十五年，一半的味蕾已经归化亚洲。 因此我做的料理自然而然受到影响，带有不少亚 洲的元素。我认为这种跨文化经验帮助我找到身 为厨师的身分。

你至今吃过最好吃的一餐是？ 如果指的是鱼料理，我最爱 Gérald Passedat 在法

DISH CONCEPT

I wanted to bring together something I learned in Asia with something from my hometown of Tours. The tomatoes are from my mom’s garden. She sends me sixteen kilograms every week.

The nodoguro was introduced to me about a year ago by a good friend who is a French chef working in Japan. It is a very rich, very delicate fish that works well with the saffron sauce and tomato concassées.

国马赛开设的一家名叫「Le Petit Nice」的餐厅。 我和以前的老板去过蒙彼利埃，力劝他试试这家

我想将在亚洲所学结合家乡图尔的元素。这些番茄是我母亲种的，

的口味。于是我们开两小时的车去那儿吃晚餐并

她每星期会寄十六公克的番茄给我。红鲈是一年前某个在日本工作

留宿一晚。翌日开了一个半小时的车去另外一家

的法国厨师好友介绍给我的，肉质真的非常丰富细腻，淋上番红花

餐厅，但那只算还好而已，于是我说 ： 「我们再回

酱和番茄丁更好吃。

Gérald 那家餐厅吃午餐吧。」我们又再开车回去， 用过午餐后回到蒙彼利埃。太赞了！

WINE PAIRING

Krug Grande Cuvée

在厨师生涯中，你最惊喜的出品是什么？ 当属在澳门举办的米其林星级晚宴上，我和团队 所端出的阿拉斯加鳕场蟹沙律伴喇沙泡沫。我们 曾在赌场吃喇沙，我突然灵机一动 ： 「我们应该试 着用这种浓稠的淋汁创造出其他菜式。 」后来我们

There is a depth of flavor in Krug Grande Cuvée that matches the complexity of the dish – in the richness of the fish, the delicate aromas of the saffron sauce, the sweet freshness of the tomato concassée, and the salinity of the caviar.

回厨房去尝试，花了一个月时间才完成这道菜肴。 要是有其他厨师来访，我必定请他们吃，他们也

Krug Grande Cuvée 的风味醇厚，最能烘托这道菜的层次感，吃一口

都對這道菜印象深刻。

便能尝到鱼本身的腴美、番红花酱细腻的香气、番茄丁的鲜甜和鱼 子酱的盐分。

我记得第一次喝 Krug 香槟，是 ……

2004 年在新加坡的莱佛士酒店。我记得口感层次

MUSIC PAIRING

相当丰富，尾韵悠长。料理也是一样，如果吃两、

Café del Mar chillout music

三口后，那美味在口中久久不散，那就是一道很 棒的菜了。我觉得葡萄酒和香槟很类似，记得那 」 时我在想 ： 「哇！这是什么？对了，是 Krug。

I love listening to house chillout music. This fish dish, with the Mediterranean flavors, should be enjoyed with a glass of Krug while relaxing by the sea.

你是猎人、采集者还是渔人？

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有人曾说我有渔夫的耐心和细腻，同时有猎人的

我爱听浩室音乐中的弛放音乐。这道深具地中海风味的鱼料理，最

性格。

适合在海边，配上一杯 Krug 香槟悠闲享用。

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Nodoguro with tomato concassée, potatoes and caviar, finished with a saffron sauce 红鲈配番茄丁、土豆及鱼 子酱，淋上番红花酱

PRESENTED BY KRUG

UMBERTO BOMBANA

8 ½ OT T O E M E Z Z O B O M B A N A

Do you enjoy fishing?

I’ve gone fishing occasionally for fun. I once went out with some friends to fish near Catalina Island in California. I didn’t catch anything myself. But my friends did so it was worth it. Then we went home and shared it all for dinner.

你喜欢钓鱼吗？ 我偶尔会去钓鱼，纯粹是为了好玩。有次我 跟几位朋友去加州靠近卡塔利娜岛一带钓 鱼，我没有捕到鱼，但我的朋友渔获不少， 总算不枉此行。然后我们回家，大伙儿把鱼 煮了当晚餐。

How did you find your own voice and vision as a chef?

Everyone has different inspirations and aspirations, and everyone finds fulfillment in their own way. I am moved by the quality of the ingredients. To treat them with love and passion is a demonstration of my voice and vision as a chef. That is also why I enjoy pairing my dishes with Krug Champagne. We have a shared respect for the individual ingredients that are crucial to any good recipe.

身为厨师，你如何发掘个人观点及愿景？ 每个人的灵感和野心都不一样，也会用自己 的方式寻找成就感。我对食材的品质深深着 迷，以爱和热情处理食材，是我作为厨师的 观点和愿景。这也是我乐于让料理和 Krug 香槟配搭的原因，重点是我们都给予所有食 材应有的尊重。

I open a bottle of Krug…

For no special reason beyond the pleasure. I really appreciate the best, and to have a glass of Krug, at any time, at any moment, is really wonderful.

If you could take a one-year sabbatical, what would you do with your newfound time?

I would travel to South America and the Himalayas and get closer to nature. I always dreamed of climbing K2, one of the most dangerous mountains to climb. You play with everything you’ve got, and that fascinates me.

Of course that’s completely impossible for me, but maybe opening a restaurant is like climbing K2 – not many survive. This was the risk I touched personally. I could feel it in my stomach, but it’s good to challenge yourself.

Are you a hunter, gatherer, or fisher?

I used to be a hunter, but with age and experience I have taken on more traits of a gatherer.

我打开一瓶 Krug 香槟 …… 无需特别理由，就为了享受饮酒的乐趣。在 任何时刻，喝杯 Krug 香槟就是一大享受。

如果你有一年带薪休假，你会怎么运用这 段多出来的时间？ 我想去南美洲和喜马拉雅山脉，亲近大自然。 我的梦想是攀登乔戈里峰，那是世上最险峻 难爬的山峰之一，到那时你得好好运用身上 的每一样东西，这一点很有意思。 当然对我来说根本是不可能，但也许开 一间餐厅就像攀登乔戈里峰，没多少人能存 活下来。我亲身经历过，那段过程很辛苦， 但勇于挑战自己是好事。

你是猎人、采集者还是渔人？ 我过去是个猎人，但经验和年龄会带来改变， 我想我现在是个采集者。

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DISH CONCEPT

This dish has a very Mediterranean feel.

The turbot is a big fish that we roast on the bones. I like intensity of flavor, so I pair it with a broccolini emulsion. I also add a citrus sauce with anchovies and capers to bring some acidity to balance the flavor, fattiness, and texture of the turbot. 这道菜深具地中海风情。野生比目鱼是相当大 的鱼，我会连同鱼骨一起烤。我偏好浓郁口味， 因此搭配花椰菜泥，再淋上一匙柑橘酱，加上 鯷鱼和少许酸豆增添酸度，以平衡野生比目鱼 的滋味、油脂和口感。

WINE PAIRING

Krug Grande Cuvée Krug Grande Cuvée is an easy, natural match with fish because of the sapidity and minerality of the Champagne. Its citrusy freshness and texture find balance with the richness of the turbot. 由于香槟本身的风味和矿物质，Krug Grande Cuvée 可烘托出鱼的鲜味，其柑橘般的清爽 和质地与比目鱼的肥美恰恰形成平衡。

MUSIC PAIRING

“Nuvole Bianche” by Ludovico Einaudi Ludovico Einaudi is one of the most iconic contemporary pianists in Italy. This type of music, along with a glass of Krug, relaxes me. We’re always too rushed now, and we should take time to find pleasure like that.

Ludovico Einaudi 是意大利当代首屈一指的钢 琴家。这类音乐配上一杯 Krug 香槟，让我感 到放松。现在的人总是匆匆忙忙，应该要花 些时间寻找乐趣。

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Roasted turbot with broccolini emulsion and a sauce of citrus, anchovies, and capers 烤比目鱼配花椰菜泥， 佐柑橘、鯷鱼和酸豆酱

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PRESENTED BY KRUG

MORI TOMOAKI

S U S H I M O R I TO M O A K I

Do you enjoy fishing?

你喜欢钓鱼吗？

I used to go to Kyushu every winter to fish. But it’s too easy to catch fish there. You put the line in the water and in only five minutes – oh!

There’s no challenge.

我以前每年冬天都去九州钓鱼，那里要抓

Are there any “new” fish that you would like to introduce or reintroduce to guests?

有哪个新品种的鱼是你想介绍或再次推荐 给客人的吗？

It’s not about finding new fish to serve but about finding new ways to serve what we have. I might think that this fish is always served with ginger and spring onions, so instead I can marinate it in vinegar.

Or make a paste from the liver. Some of my customers think I always serve them new fish. No, it’s the same fish but prepared in a different way.

重点不在于发现新品种的鱼，而在于找到

How did you find your own voice and vision as a chef?

Sushi is quite traditional. I like tradition, but sometimes I also want to do something different. Maybe because I’m half Japanese and half Chinese I can do some things to show my personality and style that Japanese chefs cannot.

I remember my first taste of Krug…

It was in my sushi bar. A customer brought in a bottle. Of course I’d had other Champagnes, but Krug is the one I remember. Now my refrigerator only has Krug in it.

Are you a hunter, gatherer, or fisher?

I must be a fisher. Everything I do is with fish, every day I’m handling fish. But I’m always going after the highest quality fish, so maybe I’m also a hunter.

鱼真的很容易，把钓鱼线放进水里，不出 五分钟。噢！毫无挑战可言。

新的烹调或呈现方式。依我所见，这种鱼 大 多 用 姜 和 葱 来 调 味， 所 以 我 改 用 醋 腌， 或利用肝脏制成鱼肝酱。有些客人以为我 经常变换各种鱼货，但并没有，我只是用 不同方式料理。

身为厨师，你如何发掘个人观点及愿景？ 寿司是传统美食。我喜欢传统，但有时会 想 做 些 变 化。 也 许 因 为 我 是 中、 日 混 血， 所以我可以展现出日本厨师所没有的个性 和风格。

我记得我第一次品尝 Krug ...... 是在我的寿司店，某个顾客带来的。当然 我也喝过其他香槟，但我只记得 Krug 的滋 味。现在我的冰箱里只有 Krug 香槟。

你是猎人、采集者还是渔人？ 我 一 定 是 渔 夫。 我 做 的 事 全 都 跟 鱼 有 关， 每天都在处理鱼。但我向来只追求最高品 质的鱼，所以大概也算是猎人吧。

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Kama-toro sushi made with rice seasoned with a special red vinegar made from fermented sake lees and topped by a dollop of tuna bone marrow mousse 金枪鱼颈腩寿司－寿司饭用以发酵酒糟 制成的红醋调味，伴金枪鱼骨髓慕斯

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DISH CONCEPT

In sashimi, tuna is the king of ingredients, and now we’re coming into Japan’s tuna season.

I like to use elements of the whole fish to make my sushi. In this case, I make a bone marrow mousse. I also grill the bones and then add them, kombu, and dried bonito to the soy sauce.

This piece is kama toro, the cheek, because it‘s less fatty and a better match with the light mousse.

WINE PAIRING

Krug Rosé The tuna and Krug Rosé are a beautiful match, because both the colors and the flavors complement each other. Also, they’re similar in concept.

I make use of the whole fish, and by blending the skin-fermented pinot noir in the Krug Rosé, the winemaker makes use of the whole grape. 金枪鱼和 Krug Rosé 是非常雅致的搭配，两者的

以生鱼片来说，金枪鱼是食材之王，现在正是日

色泽和风味互为表里，在概念上也很相近。整条

本的鲔鱼季。我喜欢用整条鱼做寿司。比方说，

鱼我都用上了，而酿酒师也用了整颗葡萄，将带

我可以做骨髓慕斯，还可以烧烤骨头，然后把烧

皮发酵的黑比诺葡萄酒混入 Krug Rosé。

过的骨头、昆布和柴鱼放进酱油。这就是金枪鱼 颈腩，是鱼的鳃盖，肉质精瘦，搭配清爽的慕斯

MUSIC PAIRING

非常合适。

The Planets, Op. 32, by Gustav Holst Krug Champagne is like a symphony, where the flavors and notes from individual wines blend together into a rich and complex harmony. I think sushi can also be like a symphony, where the meal may start light, strengthen in intensity, and come back down, like the different movements throughout a composition. And most important, you never clap your hands before it’s finished.

Krug 香槟就像一首交响曲，各种葡萄酒的风味和 香气相互融合，丰富又复杂。我认为寿司也一样， 一开始时轻细柔和，慢慢变得强力奔放，再归于 平静，犹如交响乐一般起落有致。最重要的是， 你绝不会在用餐结束前鼓掌。

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ROBIN ZAVOU

THE KRUG ROOM

Do you enjoy fishing?

I used to fish quite a lot before I moved to Asia. I worked at a restaurant in Devon, right by the sea. After we finished the evening service, we’d get in the car and go down to the beach to fish. It was a nice way to unwind.

How did you find your own voice and vision as a chef?

I’m still trying! It never stops, I don’t think it ever stops. I’ve been at the Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, for six years now,

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two as executive chef. The Krug Room is like a little restaurant within the heart of the hotel where Champagne leads and the food follows. It’s a playground for me to experiment, use foods that are in season, and create a whole experience.

What’s the most surprising dish you’ve served your guests?

Last year, we did a mushroom dish for the Krug From Forest to Fork book on mushrooms. There were components that

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were fermented, roasted, salted, brined, and pickled. It was very well received because of all the different techniques going on.

Another dish that really wowed our guests was created by our pastry chef, not by me. It was based on the old snow globes, with a sponge base, a polar-bear ice cream, a mini Christmas tree, tapioca-powder snow, and a sugar dome over the top. It was so visually stunning that the guests just looked at me and said, “Wow!”

I remember my first taste of Krug…

My wife was out of town on my fortieth birthday, but she had arranged for my friend to bring over a bottle of Krug. I have a pure memory of its unique nutty flavor.

Are you a hunter, gatherer, or fisher?

Maybe in my youth I was a hunter. I was out trying to find the next thing to catch. Now I’d say I’m probably a gatherer.

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John Dory poached in seaweed butter and paired with whole lemon purée, white asparagus purée, Ossetra caviar, and a thin ribbon of Granny Smith apple 海藻奶油炖鲂鱼配柠檬泥、白芦 笋泥、鱼子酱及澳洲青苹果薄片

你喜欢钓鱼吗？ 我还没搬来亚洲时很常钓鱼。那时我在英国德文郡的一家餐厅工作，就在海边。晚餐服 务结束后，我们就会开车去海边抓鱼，顺便放松一下。

身为厨师，你如何发掘个人观点及愿景？ 我还在找！就是不断地寻找，我认为没有停止的一天。我在香港的文华东方酒店待了六 年，担任行政主厨两年。 「库克厅」有点像是位于酒店心脏地带的小餐厅，主角是香槟， 其次才是美食。对我来说，这是用以实验的游乐场，藉由搭配时令料理，打造整体餐饮 体验。

在厨师生涯中，你最惊喜的出品是什么？ 去年，我们为 Krug 的《From Forest to Fork》特辑做了一道蘑菇料理，其中有发酵、烧 烤、盐渍、盐卤和腌制等成分。因为用了各种不同的技巧，非常受欢迎。 另一道着实让客人惊叹不已的菜肴不是我发明的，而是出自糕点师傅之手。主要是 借用雪花玻璃仪的概念，包含底层的海绵、北极熊形状的冰淇淋、小小的圣诞树、木薯 粉做的雪花，最上头是糖做的圆顶。简直是美不胜收，客人只是看着我说 ： 「哇！ 」

我记得第一次喝 Krug 香槟，是 ...... 我四十岁生日那天，我太太出城去了，但她事先请朋友带一瓶 Krug 香槟给我。我还记 得它独特的坚果香气。

你是猎人、采集者还是渔人？ 我年轻时大概是个猎人吧，总是出门寻找下一个猎物。如今我会说自己大概是采集者， 重点是家人相聚，团结一致。

DISH CONCEPT

The idea was to express black and white and yin and yang in the dish. I’ve poached the John Dory in a seaweed butter to keep it as white as possible. And on the side, there is a huge dollop of black caviar. Then to add acidity, I’ve added a fermented white asparagus purée as well as a full-on, intense, whole-lemon purée. 这道菜的概念是要表达黑与白、阴与阳。我用海藻风味奶油烹煮鲂鱼使其呈现白色，于 侧搭配一大块黑色鱼子酱。为了增加酸度，另加了发酵过的白芦笋泥和风味浓郁、内含 整块柠檬的酱汁。 WINE PAIRING

Krug Grande Cuvée Krug Grande Cuvée and fish are very easily married together. I’ve cooked the John Dory in butter, which creates a nutty flavor that also comes through in the Krug Grande Cuvée. And similarly, Krug Grande Cuvée has undertones of lemon and citrus, which is echoed in the Amalfi lemon purée.

Krug Grande Cuvée 和鱼可说是一拍即合。我用奶油烹煮鲂鱼，创造出如坚果般的香气， 而陈年香槟也有一股坚果香。同样地，Krug Grande Cuvée 微带柠檬和柑橘味，恰与阿玛 菲柠檬酱相呼应。 MUSIC PAIRING

“Human” by The Killers I’m thinking of our trip to Mallorca with the crashing waves. So the music’s got to be something upbeat, but with a bit of crash. 我想着那次去马略卡岛，看到岸边浪花飞溅。所以音乐也必须洋溢着乐观，又有些喧闹。 the faroe islands

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浪漫满屋

delectably romantic

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Diners and dreamers fall in love with Dear Lilly.

INSPIRED BY CHARMING FLORAL STALLS along Parisian boulevards, Dear Lilly, the wonderfully whimsical restaurant and bar designed by Ashley Sutton, positively exudes romance. With every touch, from lavish floral motifs to ornate perfume bottles, it envelopes guests in a world of enchantment.

The extravagant décor, though, is only part of its appeal. Equally enticing are an inventive selection of cocktails and a creative menu of beautifully presented dishes that speak to a sophisticated culinary approach.

“I’m inspired,” says head chef Bhupendra Singh, “by the freshest and highest quality in-season ingredients, and I love to make them shine in healthy preparations. To me, it’s important that dishes taste at least as good as they look.”

A perfect example is his ravishing and superbly balanced scallop carpaccio appetizer. The freshest Japanese scallops are paired with blood orange and dressed with a vibrant blend of orange and yuzu juices. The dish is finished with chopped coriander and a touch of chili and decorated with edible flowers. Sweet, sour, and spicy notes titillate the taste buds, with each ingredient clearly defined yet complementing all the others.

Another visually arresting presentation with wow-factor taste is Singh’s seaweedand-sumac-roasted salmon. “To ensure ↖

↑

Scallop carpaccio 生扇贝片

Triumph of the Sea

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perfect cooking and optimal retention of juices,” explains the chef, “we slow-roast Norwegian salmon that has been coated in a powder made from seaweed and sumac.” The richly flavorful fish, deep-seasoned by its coating, is paired with charred asparagus, green pea purée, pea tendrils, and tomato-and-olive tapenade. The harmonious result is both light and eminently satisfying.

Sharing the stage are captivating cocktails that also reflect the restaurant’s magical ambience. One of the most popular is Mad Enchantment, served in a unique stemmed teacup. A sweet and refreshing ode to Dear Lilly’s elaborate embellishments, it features swizzled calvados and Lillet Rouge mixed with apple and lemon juices, vanilla, and blackberry purée foam. It is garnished imaginatively with an edible flower and a silver teaspoon holding a fresh berry.

A new release is Triumph of the Sea, named for the 1964 color lithograph by Salvador Dalí. Served in a Medusa glass, the sweet-and-sour libation congenially combines vodka with yuzu and lemon juices and hints of almond and violet. It is topped with a dash of grapefruit bitters and a maraschino cherry and garnished with an orchid.

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一走进 Ashley Sutton 设计的餐厅酒吧「Dear Lilly」，便仿佛置身巴黎繁花簇拥的林荫大 道，梦幻仙境般的环境，处处弥漫着浪漫氛 围。从一整片壮观的花海到高贵华丽的香水 瓶，这里的一丝一毫都让宾客目眩神迷。 然而，华丽的装潢仅是酒吧魅力的一 部分，同样诱人的还有一系列自创招牌鸡尾 酒，以及一道道精心炮制、摆盘华美的菜式。 「新鲜上等的当 主厨 Bhupendra Singh 说 ： 令食材能激发我的灵感，我也十分乐于用健 康的手法让它们发光发热。对我而言，食物 要色香兼备。 」 主厨极其雅致且完美平衡的生扇贝片 便是绝佳例证。顶级鲜美日本干贝搭配血橙， 用橙汁与柚子汁调和提味后，以碎香菜与些 许辣椒作结， 再摆放食用花卉做装饰。甜、 酸、 辣三味齐发挑逗味蕾，不同食材滋味鲜明又 相辅相成。

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另一道招牌菜海藻盐肤木烤鲑鱼，不仅 外观亮眼，味道更令人赞叹。Bhupendra 解 释道 ： 「为了控制火侯并锁住肉汁，我们用慢 火煨烤包覆着海藻与盐肤木粉的挪威鲑鱼。 」 鱼肉本身已是风味绝佳，充份吸收了外层佐 料 的 香 气， 搭 配 焦 芦 笋、 豌 豆 泥、 豌 豆 须、 番茄与橄榄油制成的酸豆橄榄酱，成品滋味 和谐、清爽，令人无比满足。 闪亮登场的还有令人神魂颠倒的鸡尾酒， 这刚好与餐厅的梦幻氛围互相呼应。其中最 受欢迎的 Mad Enchantment 如同颂赞「Dear

Lilly」绚丽装饰最可人清新的诗篇，以碎冰 苹果白兰地、红丽莱酒混合苹果汁、柠檬汁、 香草、黑莓果蓉调制而成，盛装在造型独特 的有柄茶杯中，再摆上一支盛着新鲜莓果的 银汤匙，最后放上食用花装饰，名副其实的 锦上添花。 最新品 Triumph of the Sea 是以 1964 年 艺术家达利的彩色石版印刷而命名。Medusa 玻璃杯里酸酸甜甜的酒揉合了伏特加与柚子 汁、柠檬汁、些许杏仁和紫罗兰，上头撒上 少许葡萄柚苦精，再配上一颗马拉斯奇诺樱 桃，最后摆朵兰花，完美收尾。

↖↖ Mad Enchantment ↖ Bhupendra Singh ↑ Decorative floral touches 餐厅内的乾花装饰 →

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

Seaweed-and-sumac- roasted Salmon 海藻盐肤木烤鲑鱼

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味游南意

southern italian tastes D I N I N G AT C A S A D O N A L F O N S O in Macau’s Grand Lisboa Hotel became a celebrity affair in early September.

That’s when Don Alfonso Iaccarino, the famous head chef of the restaurant’s Michelin-starred namesake, paid a visit to Macau for the first time since Casa Don Alfonso’s transformation last November. “It has a much warmer feel to it now,” said Iaccarino, as he toured the dining room, affably greeting his guests. “The colors are more Mediterranean, and it feels like a private dining room rather than a restaurant. I really love it.”

Casa Don Alfonso, which is named after renowned Ristorante Don Alfonso 1890 in the village of Sant’Agata near Sorrento, has gone beyond its finedining roots to create a more casual experience. “It’s a special place,” says Iaccarino, “somewhere between fine dining and a traditional trattoria. It’s the kind of place where you can come and eat every day, for a casual lunch or a more sophisticated dinner.”

At the helm is recently appointed Chef de Cuisine Giovanni Galeota, who came directly from Ristorante Don Alfonso 1890. In his new role, Galeota works closely with Iaccarino in crafting original dishes and curating Casa Don Alfonso’s menus, including its recently launched list of seasonal

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Casa Don Alfonso, with its talented new chef and comfortable ambience, offers the sunny flavors of southern Italy.

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Giovanni Galeota, Chef de Cuisine 主厨

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recommendations. “Most of my dishes have the imprint of Ristorante Don Alfonso 1890,” says Galeota of an establishment that has been family-run for four generations.

“Without a doubt, Ernesto Iaccarino, Don Alfonso’s son, has had the greatest influence on the way I think and cook.”

A standout on the new menu is panfried duck breast, a tradition at Don Alfonso 1890. “I have such beautiful memories of this dish,” says Galeota of the succulent breast marinated in cinnamon and star anise. “I was always fascinated by the colors, the flavors, and the aroma.” Another favorite is crispy amadai, accompanied by Galeota’s savory Mediterranean sauce. Other authentic selections include homemade black-ink taglioni with Hokkaido scallops and green asparagus and the chef’s roasted guinea fowl with wild mushrooms and seasonal vegetables. On the sweet side is mango soufflé with yogurt sorbet. “I wanted to make a dessert with exotic fruits, and mango seemed perfect,” says Galeota. “The acidity of the yogurt and the sweetness of the mango is a beautiful combination.”

After years of working together, Galeota’s approach aligns closely with Iaccarino’s: “My culinary philosophy is always to work with organic products, and on this point, Don Alfonso and I agree. It’s the basis of our collaboration. We don’t use animal fats, we don’t use meats or fish from intensive farming.

When I make a menu, I always try to respect the seasonality of the ingredients and to use authentic Mediterranean ones.”

Adds Iaccarino, “Giovanni and I are from the same school of thought – I know the restaurant here is in safe hands. After twelve years of working together, the Grand Lisboa is part of my family. I couldn’t do it alone, I’m simply the conductor of this amazing orchestra.”

Even after his many years as a chef, however, Don Alfonso has no plans to call it a day. “This is my theater,” he says. “The day I stop enjoying it, the curtain can come down. Until then, I stay in the kitchen.”

Pan-fried duck breast served with red apple, cherry sauce and sweet chard 鸭肉配红苹果、樱桃汁及甜酸白菜 the faroe islands

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九月初，澳门新葡京酒店餐厅「当 奥丰素 1890 意式料理」在名人界 掀起一番话题，因为米其林星级大 厨 Don Alfonso Iaccarino 重游澳门， 这是他自去年十一月餐厅重新装潢 后的首次造访这家以他为名的餐 厅。他穿梭于餐桌之间，亲切地问 候用餐的客人。他表示 ： 「现在感 觉比较温馨，用色很有地中海的感 觉，仿佛是在家中的饭厅而非餐厅。 我好喜欢。 」 「当奥丰素 1890 意式料理」与 邻近索伦托、位于圣亚加塔村内的 知名餐厅「Ristorante Don Alfonso

1890」同名，但突破了精致餐饮的 既定面貌，打造出随兴自适的用餐 「这是个与 体验。Don Alfonso 说 ： 众不同的地方，提供精致餐饮与传 统美味，很适合客人每日前来，在 中午吃个简餐便饭，或在晚上享用 高档美食。 」 新 上 任 的 餐 厅 主 厨 Giovanni Galeota 正正来自「Ristorante Don Alfonso 1890」， 现 与 Don Alfonso 密切合作，精心制作原创料理并设 计菜单，包括近期推出的招牌季节 性料理。经历家族餐厅四代的传承， 「大多数料理可窥 Giovanni 说 道 ： 见『Ristorante Don Alfonso 1890』 的踪迹。我的烹饪理念与风格无疑 是受到 Don Alfonso 的儿子 Ernesto

Iaccarino 的深远影响。」 新菜单中最受瞩目的菜式是香 煎鸭胸，这是「Don Alfonso 1890」 的一道传统料理。鸭胸以肉桂和八 角腌制，口感鲜嫩多汁。Giovanni 说： 「这道菜使我想起许多美好的 回忆，我总是对它的色、香、味深 深着迷。 」另一道受欢迎的是脆煎 海鲷鱼，搭配 Giovanni 地中海风味 Homemade black ink tagliolini with scallops and green asparagus

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

特色墨鱼汁面配带子及青芦荀

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Crispy amadai with Mediterranean sauce 脆煎海鲷鱼配地中海汁

PRESENTED BY THE GRAND LISBOA HOTEL

Mango soufflé with yogurt sorbet 芒果梳乎厘配乳酪雪葩

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的鲜美酱汁。其他道地料理，如特 色墨鱼汁面配带子及青芦荀、香烤 珍珠鸡佐野菇时蔬。甜点菜单有芒 果梳乎厘配乳酪雪葩，Giovanni 说： 「我想用奇特的水果制作甜点，芒 果正合适，乳酪的酸和芒果的甜一 拍即合。 」 共事几年后，Giovanni 的料理 风格与 Don Alfonso 相似。Giovanni 说： 「坚持使用有机产品是我的烹 饪哲学，这一点 Don Alfonso 也十 分认同，这奠定了我们合作的基础。 我们从不使用密集饲养的鱼、肉及 动物性脂肪。每当设计菜单时，我 总是尽量顺应食材的季节性并选择 道地的地中海风味。 」 「我和 Don Alfonso 补 充 道 ：

Giovanni 有着相同的想法，现在餐 厅已交给值得信任的人掌厨。经过 十二年的合作，新葡京酒店就像是 我的家人。我无法一力承担所有的 事，我的角色应是一位乐团指挥， 指引乐团弹奏出美妙的乐音。 」

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尽 管 历 经 多 年 的 主 厨 生 涯，

Don Alfonso 却 尚 未 想 过 要 退 休。 他说 ： 「这是我的舞台，某天当我 不再享受它，料理生涯也就正式落 幕了，但在那之前，我都要待在厨 房里。 」 the faroe islands

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意犹未尽

lasting impressions Vida Rica’s inventive chef brings unexpected touches to dishes designed to be memorable.

Matthias Knilling, Chef de Cuisine主厨

Lamb & Brussel Sprouts

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羊柳配抱子甘蓝

MATTHIAS KNILLING, chef de cuisine of Vida Rica at Mandarin Oriental, Macau, appreciates the profound effect that food can have on people: “I think the most difficult challenge for a chef is to create lasting memories for guests.”

Growing up in Germany, Knilling was very much inspired by his grandmother’s cooking. “The story behind my becoming a chef,” he says, “started with her.” He fondly recalls evenings with the whole family gathered around the table. “Everyone was happy, everyone just grabbed whatever they wanted,” he says. “It impressed me how food can bring people together.”

After working in Germany with illustrious names in the culinary world like Holger Stromberg and

澳门文华东方酒店「御苑餐厅及酒廊」主厨 Matthias 「我 Knilling 领会了食物对人们的深远影响力。他说 ： 认为，厨师面临的最大挑战在于如何创造出使客人 回味无穷的美味。 」

Matthias 在德国长大，他的烹饪灵感很大程度 地受祖母的启发。他说 ： 「她是我成为厨师的因由。 」 他总是回忆起那些家庭聚餐的晚上。 「每个人吃着自 己喜欢的食物，大家都很开心。这深深打动了我， 因为我感受到了食物如何凝聚人心。 」

Matthias 曾在德国与多位名厨共事，其中包括 当地厨艺界知名主厨 Holger Stromberg 及 Christian

Jürgens。去年，他开始任职于「御苑餐厅及酒廊」。 由于他曾接受严格培训及与厨艺高超的主厨共事，

Matthias 的烹调风格受到了各方影响，他自觉很难 直接定义自己的风格。Matthias 将这些经验带到了 the faroe islands

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PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MACAU

Octopus Terrine 章鱼冻

Christian Jürgens, Knilling took up his position last year in Macau. He’s a chef whose cooking, he says, is by no means “straightforward” – influences come from everywhere, including the rigorous training he received and the talented chefs he’s worked with. Knilling has brought it all to Vida Rica, where, under his direction, the menu has undergone a complete change and will continue, he promises, to see many more exciting additions.

Three new offerings at Vida Rica especially stand out, dishes inspired

by Knilling’s love of particular ingredients and seasonal favorites. His approach is all about creating culinary surprise and developing unique flavor profiles and textural combinations. Presentation, too, is important to him: “I’m quite picky. Sometimes I plate a dish ten times before I’m happy with it.”

His Mediterranean-inspired starter of octopus terrine is made with tomato stock and octopus imported from Spain. “I was thinking about how to add new elements to the dish,” he says, “and I always like to play with different textures.” To complement the terrine’s tender consistency, the dish is accompanied by a baby-octopus-and-black-rice chip, saffron aioli, and basil sponge.

Knilling’s toothfish and calamansi main course is served with

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「御苑餐厅及酒廊」 ，在其带领下，餐厅菜式 焕然一新。主厨承诺，之后会继续推陈出新， 带来更多令人耳目一新的菜式。

Matthias 以其特别喜爱的季节性食材为 灵感，创作了三道众所瞩目的新菜式，主要是 为了创造出美食惊喜，并开创风味及口感上 的独特搭配。对主厨而言，摆盘也十分重要， 他说 ： 「我要求完美，有时摆了十次之后，才 会满意。 」 章鱼冻是一道地中海式的开胃菜，结合 番茄原汁及西班牙进口章鱼。主厨说 ： 「我一 直思索如何为这道开胃菜加入新风味，而我 一向喜欢玩味不同的口感。 」主厨为了提升冻 派的绵密口感，另外搭配了墨鱼黑米片、藏 红花蛋黄酱和罗勒松糕。

Matthias 的南极鳕鱼配柑橘，搭配了腌 制青瓜、樱桃萝卜、幼葱、风干火腿脆片以 及柑橘。主厨说明 ： 「虽然南极鳕鱼不如鲭鱼 或沙丁鱼味道明显，但因其带有脂肪分布， 因此口感十分滑润多汁。 」Matthias 用柑橘醋

Toothfish & Calamansi

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

南极鳕鱼配柑橘

marinated cucumber, red radish, chives, an ibérico chip, and calamansi.

“Unlike mackerel or sardines,” he says, “toothfish itself doesn’t have much flavor, but because it’s a little bit fatty, it’s very juicy.” Creating this dish in summer, Knilling made an apropos addition of “fresh citrus notes” with a calamansi vinaigrette. The sauce is drizzled across the plate and the fish placed on top. Marinated cucumbers and red radish add crunch, and the ibérico chip balances the calamansi’s tartness.

In Knilling’s dish of lamb and brussels sprouts, the inspiration was the vegetable rather than the meat. The idea was sparked when he recalled a popular item of sprouts with sriracha, honey, and bacon that the restaurant offered last year. “It was so tasty, I thought we’d have to do something else with them.” Knilling’s recipe includes French lamb loin from the rack, brussels-sprout purée and pan-fried leaves, sautéed mushrooms, and Madeira jus. The sprouts are first marinated with garlic and herb butter. “It’s very good for the winter season and will definitely be on our Christmas menu,” says the chef.

Looking ahead is part of the chef’s philosophy of creating food from the diner’s perspective. “I always cook to intrigue and delight my guests,” he says. “Two weeks after your visit, I want the flavors of a dish to still be popping up in your mind.”

为这道夏季料理增添新鲜柑橘的香味，酱汁慢 慢地淋于盘中，南极鳕鱼静置其上，腌制青瓜 和樱桃萝卜增添爽脆的口感，风干火腿脆片则 平衡了柑橘的酸味。

Matthias 创作的羊柳配抱子甘蓝，并非 以肉为设计发想，而是从蔬菜得到灵感。去年 餐厅供应一道人气餐点 ― 辣椒蜜酱及培根佐 抱子甘蓝，而当他回想起那道菜的滋味之时便 是他灵光乍现的一刻。他回忆 ： 「那真是太美 味了，当时就想我们必须利用那道餐点再创作 出其他菜式。 」Matthias 的料理食材包含法国 羊柳、抱子甘蓝泥、炸菜叶及炒蘑菇、马德拉 汁。抱子甘蓝需先以大蒜及香草奶油腌制。他 称： 「这道料理适合冬季品尝，将会放入圣诞 节菜单上。 」 主厨从顾客的角度创作料理， 「放眼未 来 」 是 他 的 烹 饪 理 念。 他 说 ： 「我热衷于激 发客人的好奇心，创造愉悦的用餐体验，希 望在享用过后的两周，料理的美味依然能使 他们意犹未尽。 」 the faroe islands

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PRESENTED BY MGM COTAI

古今荟萃

CLASSIC YET CONTEMPORARY Two richly traditional Chinese cuisines find exciting modern expression at MGM COTAI.

With Cantonese restaurant Chún and Sichuan restaurant Five Foot Road, MGM COTAI has brought to Macau the authentic flavors of two of China’s great regional cuisines. Through their alluring presentations, flawless service, and insistence on the finest-quality ingredients, both Chún and Five Foot Road have won recognition as exceptional dining experiences.

The continuing acclaim has been largely because of the dedication of two remarkable chefs and of their culinary sensitivity to the evolving preferences and needs of today’s diners.

美狮美高梅酒店的粤菜餐厅「淳」和四川餐厅「蜀道」 ，为澳门新添两种纯正地 方风味的中菜风韵。两间餐厅提供摆盘华美的餐点以及细腻贴心的服务，坚持 引进最佳品质的食材，让客人可享受到无与伦比的用餐体验，广受各方赞赏。 两位功力了得的总厨是两间餐厅之所以盛名不坠的功臣，他们敏锐体察到 现今客人的用餐需求和口味变化。

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Double-boiled soup with fish maw and sea whelk 滋补花胶炖响螺

PRESENTED BY MGM COTAI

Baked puff pastries filled with whole baby abalone and diced chicken 原只鲍鱼鸡粒酥

TAM YIM CHAN, MGM COTAI ’s Executive Sous Chef of Chinese Restaurants, has been assiduous in delivering classic Cantonese cuisine at Chún while at the same time ensuring that his cooking style moves with the times. “Tradition is the soul of Cantonese cuisine,” he says, “but in this day and age, innovation also comes into play.”

A case in point is Chún’s crispy-fried shredded king oyster mushrooms. Featuring delicately browned and piled slices, the dish was specifically created with modern wine pairing in mind. Clearly inspired by the fundamentals of Cantonese cooking, it is approached from the perspective of contemporary tastes. And with many of Chún’s guests coming from mainland China, Tam finds that “this dish is especially popular with northerners who want a touch of spice in their food.”

Soup, of course, is another emblem of Cantonese cuisine. With Chún’s paramount concern always the premium

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quality of its ingredients, the restaurant’s double-boiled soup with fish maw and sea whelk makes use of the freshest of products served to guests at their peak. “If we didn’t finish serving what we’ve prepared for lunch,” says the chef, “we would never serve it at dinner.” In the same way, only toptier ingredients sourced from a supplier in Hong Kong are used in another time-honored Cantonese classic: baked puff pastries filled with whole baby abalone and diced chicken.

Tam is equally careful in his execution of culinary methods. His crispy-fried pork spare ribs with honey, pepper, and preserved Chinese black olives requires liberal use of garlic sauce in the marinating process. “But you mustn’t add too much garlic,” he warns, “because then it will burn very quickly. Everything takes a long time to put together, and I also add honey for extra taste and aroma. I wouldn’t even think of serving a dish until the flavors are absolutely perfect.”

DAVID HARTUNG (3 + PREVIOUS PAGE )

CHÚN 淳

美高梅中餐厅的行政副总厨谭炎 灿，不仅致力于开发「淳」的经典 广东菜，同时确保他的烹调风格与 时俱进。他说 ： 「传统是广东菜的 灵魂，但今时今日，创新也扮演重 要的角色。 」 以「淳」的手撕杏鲍菇为例， 一整盘菇片焦黄得恰到好处，专为 现代餐酒搭配设计。这道佳肴虽受 到广东菜的启发，烹调方式却深具 当代品味。许多来自中国大陆的客 人慕名而来，而谭师傅发现嗜辣的 北方人尤其喜爱这道菜肴。 汤品也是广东菜的重点之一。 「淳」一向极为注重食材品质，其 中滋补花胶炖响螺选用了状态最佳 的新鲜花胶和响螺熬煮而成。谭师

Crispy-fried pork spare ribs with honey, pepper and preserved Chinese black olives

傅表示 ： 「就算午餐留有多余的菜

蜜椒酱榄角蒜香骨

肴， 我 们 也 绝 不 会 在 晚 餐 时 端 上 桌。 」另一道经典广东菜原只鲍鱼 鸡粒酥，同样只选用来自香港特定供应商的顶级食材。 谭师傅也很注重烹调方法，如这道蜜椒酱榄角蒜香骨， 必须先以大量蒜汁腌制猪肋排。他提醒： 「但不能加太多大蒜，

不然很快就会烧焦。每个步骤都得花上大量时间，另外再淋 上蜂蜜，增添口感和香味。我会先确认这道菜的风味已臻于 完美，才会呈现给客人。 」

Crispy-fried shredded king oyster mushroom 手撕杏鲍菇

PRESENTED BY MGM COTAI

Stewed minced chicken with bouillon bird’s nest and caviar sauce

Stewed minced chicken in bouillon bird’s nest and caviar sauce 芙蓉鸡豆花

芙蓉鸡豆花

「蜀道」餐厅着重开发川菜刺激味蕾的特 色。总厨杨登全说 ： 「重点全在于新鲜、 辛辣和香味，这些都是川菜的基本元素。 」 杨总厨具有三十余年经验，资历既 深，新鲜点子又多。他表示 ： 「我们的创 新主要是根据当代美感来摆盘，同时力 求保证纯正原味。 」即使如此，对于吃不 惯太辣的客人， 杨总厨也照顾周全。他称： 「我们还有许多其他推荐菜式可供客人挑 选品尝。 」 客人通常先尝试微辣的菜式，再换 三年以上的鸡只入馔，加上珍贵的燕窝， AT FIVE FOOT ROAD, the emphasis is on a hallmark of Sichuan cuisine: fla为这道菜增添口感和营养价值。另一道 vors that excite the palate. “It’s all about fresh, spicy, and aromatic,” says 菜式开水白菜以金华火腿、鸡肉和牛肉 Chef de Cuisine Yang Deng Quan. “These are the most essential elements 等食材制成，适合在品尝口感浓重的菜 of Sichuan food.” 肴之间调和味蕾，让味觉变得清爽。 With more than thirty years’ experience, Chef Yang is a seasoned 担担面是专为追求四川重口味的客 expert who brims with fresh ideas. “Our innovations may come in the form 人而制作，但这道菜不光是辣而已，杨 of contemporary plating and presentation, but when it comes to taste, 总厨会仔细考虑每一道料理的均衡风味， it’s all about authenticity.” Even so, Yang caters to those who may not be 因此在担担面里加入「令人胃口大开」 able to take intense spiciness. “We’re always ready to suggest many other 的醋。 dishes on offer,” he says. 总厨总是让食材发挥原味，以顶级 Guests often sample milder dishes before moving on to those with 和牛制成的麻婆鹿儿岛和牛便是最佳例 more powerful flavors. One example is stewed minced chicken in bird’s证。这道菜其实是受到麻婆豆腐启发。 nest bouillon and caviar sauce, made with chicken aged for three years or 杨总厨说 ： 「添加和牛是神来之笔，因为 more. Bird’s nest, explains the chef, adds nutritional value as well as taste. 和牛的瘦肉和油脂比例完美，让风味更 And Yang’s chicken and cabbage poached in bouillon, containing aged 丰富，带出这道菜的香气。 」 Jinhua ham, chicken, and beef, is an ideal palate-cleanser between spicier dishes.

Dan dan noodles with minced pork and soya bean sauce is for those who are prepared for Sichuan’s famously potent seasonings. The dish is not all about the heat, however, because Yang always carefully considers the balance of flavors in his creations. In this case, a judicious addition of vinegar “really stirs up the appetite.”

Sometimes, the chef simply allows ingredients to speak for themselves. An example is the premium wagyu beef used in the chef’s braised bean curd with minced beef, Sichuan peppercorn, and broad-bean paste, which is inspired by mapo tofu. “Wagyu makes for the perfect addition – there’s a good ratio of lean meat and fat, and it lends a richer Poached Chinese cabbage in bouillon flavor that really brings out the aroma in 開水白菜 the dish.”

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DAVID HARTUNG (3)

到口味偏重的。芙蓉鸡豆花只挑选饲养

FIVE FOOT ROAD 蜀道

Braised bean curd with minced Wagyu beef, Sichuan peppercorn and broad-bean paste 麻婆鹿兒島和牛

PRESENTED BY GALAXY MACAU™

经典之最

just the best Fook Lam Moon’s renowned reputation rests on an uncompromising approach to quality.

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松基在料理上投注了大量时间

Steamed wild mushroom dumplings with beetroot

与 心 血， 他 尤 其 在 乎 如 何 为 顾

野菌红菜头石榴素饺

「福临门」才华出众的总厨欧阳

客呈上最别致讲究的饮食体验。 他说 ： 「决定是否使用任何食材 前，我们都必须确保它达到最高 水准。 」 这家最初发迹于香港的餐 厅，如今已成为「澳門銀河

TM

」

最著名的粤式食府之一。餐厅传 承自身传奇式的优越，现登上米 其林餐盘名单，羡煞业界。 「福临门」的厨师团队无时 无刻均在寻找最上乘的食材，在 事前准备工夫上也毫不懈怠。总 厨说 ： 「我们很清楚每种食材处

“You often find beetroot in Western cuisine, frequently in salads,” says the chef.

And with vegetarian dishes in vogue, he wanted to use the ingredient’s earthy flavor in a healthy dim sum dish. Water in which beetroot has been boiled is used to color dumpling wrappers, which are stuffed with wild mushrooms and steamed for about four and a half minutes. The dish’s Chinese name includes the word for pomegranate, because the dumplings’ shape is reminiscent of the fruit.

于颠峰状态的季节，不选用非时 令食材。 」例如在六月到八月之

「 西 方 料 理 很 常 见 到 红 菜 头， 尤 其 是 沙

间，他们坚持只用云南的菌菇。

拉。 」总厨说。如今素食当道，总厨想利

总厨指出 ： 「我们不需选用

用红菜头的草根味做一道健康的粤式点

最稀有的食材，但始终坚持只用

心 ：先用煮红菜头的水将饺皮上色，再填

最优质的。这是顾客对餐厅一贯

入野菌馅料，蒸约四分半钟。因为蒸饺的

的期待， 我们也竭尽所能地配合，

形状很像石榴，所以这道菜的中文名称就

这正是我们秉持的理念。 」

有石榴二字。

DAVID HARTUNG

CHEF AU YEUNG CHUNG KEI spends a lot of time thinking about his dishes. The greatest concern of Fook Lam Moon’s talented head chef is to bring guests the most exceptional dining experiences possible. “Before we even consider serving an ingredient to diners,” he says, “we have to be sure it’s of the very highest caliber.”

Continuing its legacy of excellence, Galaxy Macau TM’s famed Cantonese restaurant, which was originally established in Hong Kong, now boasts a Michelin Plate.

The chef and his team, forever in search of the most outstanding ingredients, are diligent in doing their homework. “We’ve come to know which products are at their peak during different times of the year,” he says, “and if an ingredient isn’t in season, we just don’t use it.” Between June and August, for example, the chef and his team insist on mushrooms from Yunnan.

“We don’t necessarily go for the rarest products,” says Au Yeung, “but our bottom line is always to choose those that are of premium quality. This is what our guests consistently expect of us and what we always do our utmost to uphold – it’s simply our philosophy.”

PRESENTED BY GALAXY MACAU™

Fried shredded king trumpet mushrooms with XO chili sauce XO 酱杏鲍菇丝

Fried shredded fish maw, crabmeat and crab roe

For this savory starter, Yunnan king trumpet mushrooms are thinly sliced, dipped in housemade batter, and wok-fried in oil at about 65°C. Frying, says the chef, brings out a marvelous aroma in the dish and imparts the all-important crunch to the mushrooms. “Once they’re crispy and golden, we drain and add Fook Lam Moon’s own XO sauce and our special Japanese barbecue sauce.”

The inspiration behind this dish may be the growing trend toward healthy ingredients, but Fook Lam Moon carries it off with a touch of luxury. Egg whites are seasoned and fried until 70-percent done before select fish maw from Pakistan and fresh crabmeat and crab roe are added to the pan. The Chinese name of the dish, explains the chef, contains the word for coral, “because the ingredients are presented on the plate in different layers, much like a reef.”

这道开胃前菜将云南杏鲍菇切成细丝，浸在自制面糊里，再用

这道菜的灵感源自日益流行的健康食材文化，而「福临门」还为这道佳

65°C 油炸。总厨解释，油炸能提取出这道菜美妙的香气，展现菇

肴添加了一点豪奢之气 ：蛋白经过调味，煎至七分熟，然后精选巴基

「等煎到酥脆金黄，就可以沥干，然 类最重要的特色 – 酥脆口感。

斯坦花胶与新鲜蟹肉、蟹黄，在煎锅中烹调。对于中文菜名包含「珊瑚」

」 后淋上『福临门』自制 XO 酱和特选日式烤肉酱。

二字的原因，总厨表示 ： 「因为各食材在盘子里交叠摆放，很像珊瑚。 」

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

珊瑚炒花胶

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Deep-fried glutinous dumplings with dried shrimp, pork and mushrooms 山竹咸水角

A traditional dim sum dish gets a contemporary, health-conscious spin. “We put the ingredients that you’d normally find in a deepfried glutinous dumpling inside a wrapping that contains purple mangosteen sourced from Japan,” explains Au Yeung. Mangosteen is mixed with flour to create the wrap and the dumpling’s shape is modeled after the fruit.

“Mangosteen is very healthy, and it also adds a beautiful touch of color.” 传统粤式点心摇身一变，成为符合当代健康意 识的料理。总厨说 ： 「馅料的食材都是在炸糯 米饺里常见的，饺皮加入了来自日本的山竹。 」 先将山竹和面粉混合用来做饺皮，再把饺子捏 成像山竹的形状。他认为 ： 「山竹是很健康的 食材，也让这道菜的色泽更漂亮。 」

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PRESENTED BY HENNESSY

把酒赏「粤」

COGNAC & CANTONESE Two of Hong Kong’s finest Chinese restaurants pair their creations with illustrious Hennessy Cognacs.

Hennessy has been crafting its world-renowned spirits since 1765, and today its Cognacs are increasingly sought after by Asian connoisseurs and gourmets eager to H E N N E S S Y H A S B E E N C R A F T I N G I T S world-

軒尼詩自 1765 年起开始打造世

pairrenowned them with the very best of Chinese cuisine. Leading chefs from some of Hong 界知名的干邑传奇，今时今日， spirits since 1765, and today its Cognacs 轩尼诗成为干邑最聞名的品牌之 are increasingly sought after by including Asian connoisseurs Kong’s top Chinese restaurants, the two featured here, are planning tasting 一，亚洲品酒美食家都爱用顶级 and gourmets eager to pair them with the finest of 干邑搭配美味菜肴。一些香港顶 Chinese cuisine. Leading chefs from some of Hong hosting special series of pairing dinnerstheintwo Hong Kong and are also showcasing 级中餐厅的大厨推出全新菜单组 Kong’sa top Chinese restaurants, including 合，顾客既能享受美食，也能一 featured here, are planning to introduce tasting their menus at Gaggenau’s state-of-the-art culinary studio. The dinners are designed 尝轩尼诗美酒的多元风味，本篇 menus that highlight the versatility of Hennessy’s to demonstrate the affinity between Hennessy Cognacs and the many flavors of 报导的两位大厨当然不遑多让。 acclaimed creations. 两 the 位 大delicate 厨 推 出 一earthy 系 列 精notes 选 chefs will be hosting a special series of pairChineseThe cuisine, especially those of seasonal produce, from 晚宴菜单，并在配备 Gaggenau ing dinners in Hong Kong and will also be showcasing of autumn fungi to the sweet freshness of summer vegetables. 顶级厨具的厨房里现场烹饪。晚 their menus at Gaggenau’s state-of-the-art culinary 轩尼诗自 1765 年以来一直在制作其世界知名的烈酒，今天它的干邑白兰地越来 宴菜单上的菜式展现了轩尼诗干 studio. The dinners are designed to demonstrate the 邑和中国菜多元风味的结合，其 affinity between Hennessy Cognacs and the many fla越受到亚洲鉴赏家和美食家的追捧，他们渴望将它们搭配最好的中国菜。 来自 中当然少不了当季新鲜食材，包 vors of Chinese cuisine, especially those of seasonal 香港一些顶级中餐馆的顶级厨师，包括这里的两家餐厅，正在筹划品尝菜单， 括蕴含大自然气息的的秋木耳， produce, from the delicate earthy notes of autumn 以及清新的夏季蔬菜。 fungi to the bright freshness of summer vegetables. 突出轩尼诗备受赞誉的创作的多功能性。 厨师们在香港举办一系列特别的配对

menus that highlight the versatility of Hennessy’s acclaimed creations. The chefs are

晚宴，并在Gaggenau最先进的烹饪工作室展示他们的菜单。

晚餐的设计旨在

展示轩尼诗干邑与多种中式菜肴之间的亲和力，特别是季节性产品，从秋季真

DAVID HARTUNG

菌的微妙泥土气息到夏季蔬菜的甜美新鲜。

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文华厅

MAN WAH

Braised rice, whole abalone 原只鲍鱼烩丝苗

THERE ARE FEW CANTONESE DINING ROOMS as storied as Man Wah at Hong Kong’s legendary Mandarin Oriental hotel, and no place as festive to welcome a menu that celebrates the unique heritage of Hennessy Cognacs.

“Since many traditional Chinese cuisines are rich and deeply flavored, Cognac pairs well with them,” says Executive Chef Wong Wing Keung, who oversees Michelin-starred Man Wah at Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, and Yee Tung Heen at The Excelsior, Hong Kong. “At Man Wah, we bring the freshest seasonal ingredients to our clients, and the true essence of our dishes pairs wonderfully with the entire Hennessy range.”

Wong’s beautifully balanced menu includes dishes like wagyu beef cubes with crispy-fried garlic. The richness of the finest Australian M9

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香港文华东方酒店「文华厅」拥有粤菜餐厅少 见的的高贵典雅装潢，其顶级菜式配上经典优 雅的轩尼诗干邑更是不二之选。 行政主厨黄永强除了带领拥有米其林星 级荣耀的「文华厅」 ，同时也管理另一家粤菜 「怡东轩」 。他说道： 「大 餐厅 – 香港怡东酒店的 部分中国菜口味偏重且丰富，搭配干邑最为合 适。在『文华厅』 ，我们尽力把最新鲜的当季 食材呈现给顾客，而我们每道料理的内涵都能 和各款轩尼诗干邑很好地搭配。 」 黄主厨精心设计的菜式众多，其中包括 口感平衡的蒜香牛柳粒 ：顶级澳洲 M9 和牛的

Executive Chef Wong Wing Keung

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

行政主厨黄永强

wagyu is admirably complemented by the layered complexity and spicy edge of Hennessy X.O, a blend of more than one hundred eaux-de-vie.

“The flavor and marbling of the wagyu pair perfectly with the chocolate notes of Hennessy X.O over ice, which also refreshes the palate for the next course.

I also enjoy drinking Cognac at home and relish Hennessy X.O over ice in the summer. It’s popular with colleagues and people in the industry because it matches especially well with food with strong flavors and aromas and with crispy, deep-fried foods.”

Another standout on Wong’s seven-course menu is the sumptuous baked crab shell filled with crabmeat and Chinkiang vinegar jelly. It is also accompanied by Hennessy X.O, this time served neat. As soon as the

厚实口感与层次丰富，与逾百种「生命之水」 「和 调制而成的轩尼诗 X.O 完美结合。他表示： 牛的脂肪纹路绵密，风味浓厚，而 X.O 多层 次的韵味加上冰粒能调和两者，让味蕾重新 苏醒，准备迎接下一道佳肴。 」 黄主厨说： 「我个人在家也非常爱喝干邑， 夏天通常会加上冰粒。餐饮业同行都很爱喝 轩尼诗的干邑，因为口味刚劲、丰富，配搭 酥脆的油炸食物特别消腻。 」 黄主厨的精选七道菜中，另一道特色佳 肴便是豪华的焗酿蟹盖伴镇江醋果冻，同样 搭配轩尼诗 X.O 干邑，但这次不加冰粒，直 the faroe islands

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Double-boiled pearl clam soup, fish maw, matsutake mushroom 松茸花胶炖珍珠肉

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接享用。菜肴一上桌，饕客们即能嗅到丰富的胡 椒香气，细品一口干邑之后尝一口切达奶酪和香 甜蟹肉，这独特而天衣无缝的组合是口感上的一 大飨宴。深赭的酒色、芬芳的香料，以及肉桂糅 合木桶香气的滋味，轩尼诗的顶级干邑提升了整 道菜肴的层次和饱满感，却不会让口味过重。黄 主厨说 ： 「我们把口味稍重的奶酪当作酱料使用， 并把口感细致的蟹肉放在贝壳里。整道菜的温润 感与干邑完美搭配。 」

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

dish is served, diners savor the heady aroma, followed by the sensational flavor combination of cheddar cheese and sweet crabmeat.

The deep ocher color of X.O presages the ripe fruit and spice on the nose，and the cinnamon and woody notes on the palate. Hennessy’s extraordinary Cognac accentuates the innate sweetness and richness of the dish without ever overpowering it. “We use the highly flavored cheese as sauce and place the delicate crabmeat in the shell,” says Wong. “The savor of the dish really amplifies the flavor profile of this exceptional Cognac.”

都爹利会馆

DUDDELL’S THE MOST RECENT celebratory pairing of the best in Cantonese cuisine with Hennessy’s legendary range of Cognacs took place in the very elegant surroundings of Michelin-starred Duddell’s, situated in the heart of Hong Kong’s Central district.

That’s where globally experienced Chef Jacky Wu Chin Kit wins raves for his gorgeous and innovative variations on classic Cantonese. “The

Steamed garoupa with hairy crab coral 蟹粉东星斑卷

PRESENTED BY HENNESSY

Miyazaki A4 wagyu beef with chestnut, pumpkin, and fermented black soybeans 豉味板栗南瓜炒宫崎A4和牛

theme of this menu is harmony,” notes Wu. “Harmony between the ingredients, the flavors, the aromas, the colors, the plating – the perfect harmony between Hennessy Cognacs and the dishes.”

While its dining rooms filled with contemporary art and its sophisticated bar program are justly renowned, there’s no doubt that Duddell’s food is the main draw, especially when matched with Hennessy’s finest. Across Wu’s menu, two dishes in particular stand out for their masterful execution.

Steamed garoupa with hairy crab coral is as delightful to the eye as it is to the palate. The fish is artfully sliced and stuffed with carrots, mushrooms, celery, and Chinese ham, all imaginatively bound together with savory shrimp paste. A vibrant sauce made with green onion is the ideal foil for the rare delicacy of seasonal hairy crab coral from Jiangsu. “The mouthfeel and textural contrast are prominent,”

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Chef Jacky Wu Chin Kit 主厨邬进杰

says Wu, “namely, the bite of the vegetables with the softer fish.

We specifically chose scallion instead of soy sauce to pair with the Hennessy X.O. Scallion, with a milder taste than most onions, complements Hennessy X.O’s spicy notes.”

Then there’s the chef’s sautéed Miyazaki A4 wagyu beef with chestnut, pumpkin, and fermented black soybeans. The world-class beef speaks for itself, and the peak-of-season pumpkin amplifies the sweet notes of chestnut. Undertones of black beans, garlic, and dried tangerine peel marry beautifully with the richness of Hennessy X.O. “There’s a simple modern take on presentation,” says Wu, “because I like everything clear on the plate, with the elements of the dish kept distinct. They’re harmonious with each other and with the Hennessy.

X.O is intense and complex, and I like serving it on ice to bring out its powerful, refreshing, and aromatic qualities.”

位于香港中环的「都爹利会馆」 ，拥有米其林一星殊

和金华火腿放入其中，咸味虾酱将这些食材巧妙地结

荣，有优雅的用餐环境，为顾客提供精致美味的粤菜，

合在一起。清新的葱酱则让产自江苏的新鲜蟹粉口味

提供享负盛名的轩尼诗干邑佐餐奢华享受。

更上一层楼。邬主厨说： 「爽口的蔬菜搭配软嫩的鱼肉，

曾在世界各国掌厨的主厨邬进杰在此尽情挥洒 创意，将全新元素融入传统粤菜。邬主厨说 ： 「这张

葱而不是酱油，以衬托出轩尼詩干邑辛香的韵味。 」

菜单的主题是『和谐』 ，包括食材、口味、香气、颜

另一道则是主厨亲手打造的豉味板栗南瓜炒宫崎

色和摆盘之间的和谐，还有轩尼诗与菜肴之间的和

A4 和牛。世界级和牛拥有极致美味，而当季新鲜南瓜

谐。 」

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

不管是味道或口感上都有鲜明的对比。我们特別使用

更提升了板栗的风味。轩尼诗 X.O 的丰富口感层层带

餐厅墙上满满的当代艺术品，相当吸睛，调饮手

出黑豆、大蒜及橙皮的底韵。邬主厨说 ： 「菜肴呈现的

艺精湛的酒吧亦是不可忽略的亮点，但餐厅提供的菜

方式走现代极简风，因为我喜欢在摆盘中让食材独立

肴仍是最重要的主角，配上轩尼诗干邑更能让美味升

呈现，突显各自鲜明的特色。食材之间搭配和谐，也

华。在邬主厨的特选菜单中，有两道菜特别亮眼。 蟹粉东星斑卷不仅外观华丽，口感更令人喜出望 外。整条鱼经过仔细切片，并将红萝卜、蘑菇、芹菜

与轩尼诗干邑和谐共处。轩尼诗 X.O 口感刚劲丰富， 加入冰粒饮用，口感清爽优雅，搭配各式菜肴都非常 合适。 」 the faroe islands

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法式甜点新巧思

modern french flair

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PRESENTED BY CANDIA PROFESSIONAL

With the help of Candia butter and cream, a creative young pastry chef updates a classic. 在Candia黄油和稀奶油的助阵下，创意

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

非凡的年轻面点师傅再次缔造经典。

THE VERY TALENTED KEN THOMAS is head pastry chef of Hong Kong’s ÉPURE. Everything that leaves the kitchen of this leading contemporary French restaurant seems to demonstrate careful thought and fertile imagination. “Part of our philosophy is respect for each individual ingredient,” says Thomas. “And while we do focus on dishes that are steeped in French tradition, we bring in a number of modern elements. Of course, every single step must be well done.”

It is this painstaking attention to detail combined with a refreshingly up-to-date approach that has won ÉPURE such widespread critical recognition, including a Michelin star.

Two highly respected ingredients that play a leading role in many of ÉPURE’s desserts are cream and butter. They feature in a recent addition to the menu, an evolved iteration of an all-time French favorite, Rum Baba. And since using the best available dairy products makes all the difference, Thomas has chosen those from Candia, which are produced from French milk exclusively.

For the all-important baba dough, the chef prefers Candia unsalted butter because of its delicate taste and color. “The butter from Candia,” notes Thomas, “has such distinctive richness and flavor, which are vital for this iconic dessert.”

The other essential item is cream, and Thomas selects Candia Professional whipping cream for a number of reasons, including its freshness, purity, and ease of whipping.

“It increases in volume so quickly,” he says, “and that makes my job a lot easier.” The fat globules in Candia’s heavy cream act to form barriers around tiny pockets of air, providing its well-known structure, stability, and billowy volume. “The success of this dessert depends largely on the Chantilly cream – it has to be light and smooth and rich enough to extend the deliciously silky mouthfeel.”

香港「ÉPURE」法式餐厅的饼房总厨 Ken Thomas 才华横溢。同样，这家 顶级餐厅的厨房中呈献的每道餐点，都满载厨师们巧妙的心思和丰富的 「尊重每一样食材是我们的经营理念之一。当我们制 想像力。Ken 说道 ： 作经典法式菜肴时，也会加入一些现代元素。当然，每个步骤都会尽善 尽美。 」 诚然，这种注重细节的精神，以及不落人后的烹饪方式，让「ÉPURE」 赢得了各方赞赏，包括一颗米其林星星。 在「ÉPURE」的众多美味甜点之中，鲜奶油和黄油扮演了相当重要 的角色。它们在最近才登场的新菜单中崭露头角－兰姆巴巴蛋糕 (Rum

Baba)。对这道法国人最爱的甜点，「ÉPURE」有焕然一新的诠释，使用 世界顶级的乳制品更是其中关键。Ken 选择了仅使用法国鲜乳制造的

Candia Professional 稀奶油。 为 了 让 巴 巴 面 团 达 到 最 佳 颜 色 和 口 感，Ken 看 中 了 Candia 「Candia Professional 无盐黄油有独特的丰 Professional 无盐黄油。他说 ： 富口感和香味，在制作这道招牌甜点时绝对不可或缺。 」 稀奶油则是另一项必备食材，Ken 选用了新鲜、香纯且容易打发的 「这种鲜奶油的体积膨胀很快，可 Candia Professional 稀奶油。 他解释 ： 省下不少工夫。 」Candia Professional 稀奶油中的脂肪球能在气泡外形成 「这 保护层，保持奶油结构完整、稳定性高，又有足够的体积。Ken 称 ： 道甜点能成功要归功于香缇奶油，它必须清爽滑顺，却也要够绵密，才 能带出丝绸一般的柔顺口感。 」 the faroe islands

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RUM BABA 兰姆巴巴蛋糕

BABA DOUGH

SYRUP

VANILLA CHANTILLY

1000g flour (T45) 20g salt 90g sugar 125g water 50g fresh yeast 800g eggs 250g Candia Professional unsalted butter

3000g water 600g sugar 2 vanilla beans zest of one lime, one lemon, and one orange

250g Candia Professional whipping cream 250g raw cream 50g icing sugar 2 vanilla beans (seeds only)

1. Boil ingredients together, infuse for 10 minutes, and strain.

2. When the temperature cools to 45°C, add baked baba and soak for at least 12 hours.

Blend ingredients together and whip to soft peaks.

1. In a stand mixer on speed 1, combine water, yeast, flour, sugar, and salt.

2. Add eggs one at a time, mixing on speed 2 until dough no longer sticks to the bowl.

3. Add butter, mixing on speed 1.

4. Let dough rest for 30 minutes.

5. Place dough in mold of choice and proof at room temperature for about 90 minutes.

6. Bake at 190°C for 20-30 minutes.

APRICOT-VANILLA GLAZE 1000g Absolu Cristal glaze 100g apricot juice 50g water 2 vanilla beans

Boil ingredients together and use immediately.

FINAL ASSEMBLY

1. Trim off firm outer layer of soaked baba and add rum of choice to taste.

2. Glaze sides with a brush.

3. Top with Chantilly, using an appropriate mold.

4. Serve as is or with ice cream or seasonal fruit.

巴巴面团

糖浆

香草香缇鲜奶油

1000克 面粉 (T45) 20 克 盐 90 克 砂糖 125 克 水 50 克 新鲜酵母 800 克 蛋 250 克 Candia Professional无盐黄油

3000 克 水 600克 砂糖 2 串 香草豆荚 一颗莱姆、一颗柠檬和一颗柳橙的皮

250克 Candia Professional稀奶油 250克 生奶油 50 克 糖粉 2 串 香草籽

1. 将所有食材加在一起煮沸， 浸泡10分钟后将食材捞起滤 干。 2. 当糖浆温度降至摄氏45度 时，加入烤过的巴巴面团， 至少浸泡12小时。

搅拌所有食材并打发至软性发 泡状态 (soft peaks)。

1. 将水、酵母、面粉、 砂糖和盐加入自动搅拌器， 并以速度1搅拌。 2. 一次加入一颗蛋，以速度 2 搅拌直到面团不再黏在碗壁 上。 3. 加入黄油，以速度1搅拌。 4. 将面团静置30分钟。 5. 将面团倒进烘烤模具中， 于室温下静置约90分钟。 6. 以摄氏190度烘烤20-30分 钟。

杏桃香草亮面糖浆 1000 克 果胶 100 克 杏子汁 50 克 水 2串 香草豆荚

最后步骤

1. 削去巴巴面团的外层，并加 入所选的兰姆酒调味。 2. 用刷子将外层刷上果胶。 3. 以适当的模具将香缇鲜奶油 加在顶端。 4. 直接上桌，或可搭配冰淇淋 或时令水果。

将所有食材一起煮沸并立即 使用。

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PRESENTED BY AUSTRIAN WINE

共谱芳醇

wines the austrian way From grape to glass, Austria’s distinctive varietals, climate, and culture produce wines that are winning global acclaim.

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长久以来，奥地利以绿维特利纳（grüner velt-

liner）葡萄的原产地而闻名，但现今奥地利跻身 于世界顶级美酒大国行列，所出产的葡萄酒种 类越来越有特色，也更多元化。从国内日益蓬 勃发展的葡萄酒产业，可探知当地的葡萄酒为 何如此与众不同。 首 先， 奥 地 利 具 有 得 天 独 厚 的 气 候 优 势， 虽 然 与 法 国 的 勃 艮 第（Burgundy） 位 于 同一纬度上，但奥地利的大陆性气候特征较明 显，夏季温度更高，冬季更寒冷。夏冬显著的 温差便是奥地利能酿造出风味清新、芳香葡萄 酒 的 关 键， 奥 地 利 葡 萄 酒 也 以 酒 体 饱 满、 高 酸 度 闻 名。 奥 地 利 的 葡 萄 酒 产 区 风 景 如 诗 如 画，涵盖各种气候风土，全国葡萄园总面积约

46,000 公顷，从多瑙河两岸的瓦豪（Wachau） 与 其 他 传 统 产 区， 一 路 延 伸 到 南 部 的 施 泰 尔 马 克 州（Steiermark） 及 东 部 的 布 尔 根 兰 州 （Burgenland）产区。 奥地利的葡萄品种同样非常丰富多元。近 年 来， 奥 地 利 酿 酒 商 致 力 开 发 传 统 品 种 的 新 潜 力， 除 了 绿 维 特 利 纳 以 外， 白 葡 萄 酒 的 品 、津芳德 种 还 有 红 维 特 利 纳（roter veltliner） 、 红 基 夫 娜（rotgipfler） 、纽 尔（zierfandler） ，红葡萄酒种类则包含茨威 伯格（neuburger） 、蓝弗朗克（blaufränkisch） 、圣 格（zweigelt） ，奥地利所出产的国际主要 罗兰（St. Laurent） 葡萄酒品种也相当知名，包含雷司令、长相思、 霞多丽、白皮诺、黑皮诺、梅洛、赤露珠等等。 奥地利的葡萄种植传统已延续两千多年， 是当地文化极珍贵的一部分，而现今新一代的 创新酿酒商结合传统酿造知识，以及现代酿酒 学训练的实务经验，致力让奥地利的有机葡萄 栽培水平领先全球。目前奥地利已有超过 13% 的葡萄园种植面积依照有机农法准则进行栽培， 而且多数的葡萄仍是以人工摘取方式收成。 奥地利的葡萄酒盛名日益远播，但相较他 国同样高品质的葡萄酒，奥地利出口的产品则 十分超值，而且多样的酒种适合搭配中国菜或 其他亚洲菜等各式美味佳肴。全球越来越多爱 酒人士发现，奥地利葡萄酒与美食堪称绝配， 从维也纳炸肉排到日本寿司，奥地利佳酿都能 让美味发挥得淋漓尽致。

AWMB / ARMIN FABER

LONG KNOWN primarily as home of the famed grüner veltliner grape, Austria has today emerged as an internationally recognized producer of increasingly interesting and diverse wines. The country’s evolving winegrowing sector points out several factors that help set Austria’s wines apart.

For a start, the climate is highly favorable. Although Austria is at the same latitude as Burgundy, its conditions are more continental, with warmer summers and frostier winters. This wide temperature fluctuation is key to the fresh aromatic character of Austrian wines, which are also noted for good body and high acidity. The country’s picturesque winegrowing regions encompass a diversity of terroirs. More than forty-six thousand hectares are under cultivation, from the Wachau and other classic regions on either side of the Danube to Steiermark in the south and Burgenland in the east.

Austria’s grapes are equally diverse. In recent years, old traditional varieties are finding new potential in the hands of the country’s current breed of serious winemakers.

Besides grüner veltliner, these grapes include roter veltliner, zierfandler, rotgipfler, and neuburge among the whites and zweigelt, blaufränkisch, and St. Laurent among the reds.

Austria is known as well for growing many of the major international varietals, from riesling, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, and weissburgunder (pinot blanc) to pinot noir, merlot, and cabernet sauvignon.

For over two millennia, wine has been a treasured part of Austrian culture, and today, dynamic young winemakers are building on the store of traditional knowledge by augmenting it with experience gained in modern oenology training to make Austria a world leader in organic viticulture. More than 13 percent of its vineyards are already managed according to organic farming guidelines, and most grapes are still harvested by hand.

Despite their growing reputation, Austria’s fine export wines continue to offer excellent value in comparison to others of similarly high quality. And their range provides intriguing and excellent matches for a variety of cuisines, including Chinese and other Asian food. Wine lovers around the world are discovering that Austrian wines make admirable accompaniments to everything from Viennese schnitzel to Japanese sushi.

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星梦邮轮

dream cuisine Six celebrity chefs display their creativity on the high seas as part of Dream Cruises’ culinary extravaganza.

FROM JUNE THROUGH NOVEMBER, guests who book on Dream Cruises’ luxury ship World Dream and stay at The Palace, the vessel’s ultra-sumptuous “ship within a ship” accommodations, enjoy complimentary limitededition tasting menus from six of Asia’s most illustrious chefs: Alvin Leung, Chan Kwok Keung, Vicky Cheng, Christian Yang, Wan Tat Kong, and Martin Yan. In addition, deluxe chef’s table menus and workshops with the celebrities are offered to all guests. The extraordinary series of events, entitled

Taste the Dream – Wine and Dine at Sea , is an imaginative collaboration between the Dream Cruises culinary team and the lineup of starring chefs.

Among them is Vicky Cheng, who is brand-new to cruises. Raised in Hong Kong with Western cultural influences, he pursued classical culinary training with leading French chefs before returning to his hometown to helm VEA Restaurant & Lounge, which soon won a Michelin star. “My passion for food,” he says, “has changed into a style called Chinese x French.”

Cheng’s Taste the Dream chef’s table menu includes such lavish creations as Tuna Belly, Sichuan Chili, Sea Urchin, Cucumber, paired with Veuve Clicquot Champagne, and his Langoustine, Celeriac, Custard Apple, paired with Coldstream Hills Reserve Pinot Noir.

For more information about Dream Cruises, please visit dreamcruiseline.com 如欲了解更多星梦邮轮的详情，可浏览网址 dreamcruiseline.com

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自六月起至十一月止，凡旅客预订「星梦邮轮 世界梦号」并入住独特「船中船」豪华设计的 「星梦皇宫」 ，即可尊享由六位亚洲顶尖名厨－ 梁经伦、陈国强、郑永麒、杨尚友、尹达刚、 甄文达等亲自操刀的免费限量美馔。 此外，六位亚洲名厨协同星梦邮轮美食 团队携手打造一系列飨食活动，名为「星梦飨 宴」 ，邀请全体宾客品味私房招牌菜与体验互 动工作坊。 郑永麒是其中的新面孔，出生于香港却 受西式烹饪风格影响，曾追随法国名厨接受 专 业 烹 饪 训 练，返 回 家 乡 执 掌 于 餐 厅「VEA

Restaurant & Lounge」，不久便获得米其林一 星殊荣，他说 ： 「我对美食的热爱已升华到中 法合璧的境界。 」 郑 永 麒 在「 星 梦 飨 宴 」 的「 主 厨 餐 桌 」 菜单，包括头盘「金枪鱼腩 • 四川辣椒 • 海胆

• 黄瓜」配法国凯歌香槟，以及主菜「小龙虾 • 芹菜 • 番荔枝」配冷溪山珍藏葡萄酒。

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TK | THE FAROE ISLANDS

REYKJAVÍK

We fly up to three times daily throughout the year directly from Copenhagen, and several weekly flights from Billund, Bergen, Reykjavik and Edinburgh – directly to the Faroe Islands.

In the summer also from Aalborg, Barcelona, and Mallorca – directly to the Faroe Islands.

FAROE ISLANDS BERGEN

AALBORG EDINBURGH

BILLUND

Read more and book your trip on www.atlantic.fo

BARCELONA MALLORCA

*) Chosen by National Geographic Traveller.

Atlantic Airways

Vága Floghavn 380 Sørvágur

Faroe Islands

Tel +298 34 10 00 GRAN CANARIA

COPENHAGEN

RESTAURANT LISTINGS

5

Italian

ÉPURE 5

Shop 202, Landmark Alexandra, 18 Chater

q +852 2537 8859

Lunch: 12:00-14:30; Dinner: 18:30-22:30

City, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong 香港尖沙咀海港城海洋中心4楼403 q +852 3185 8338

Lunch: 12:00–14:30

(Closed on Sundays) A Smart Casual

Caprice 5

Dinner: 18:30–22:30 A Business attire or elegant casual - no

shorts and sandals

French 6/F, Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance Street, Central, Hong Kong

Five Foot Road 5

Ground floor, MGM COTAI, Avenida da

Lunch: 12:00-14:30; Dinner: 18:30-22:30 A Smart Casual

Casa Don Alfonso 当奥丰素1890意式料理 5

Italian

Sichuanese 四川菜 Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau

澳门路氹体育馆大马路美狮美高梅G层 q +853 8806 2358

Lunch: 11:00-15:00;

Sushi Shop D, G/F, Seabright Plaza, 8-23 Shell Street, North Point, Hong Kong

香港北角蚬壳街9-23号秀明中心地下D铺 q +852 2979 5977

Lunch: 12:00-15:00 Dinner: 18:30-23:00 (Closed on Sundays)

The Krug Room 库克厅 5

Modern Seasonal Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, 5

蜀道

中国香港中环金融街 8 号香港四季酒店6楼 q +852 3196 8860

5

Shop 403, Level 4, Ocean Centre, Harbour

Road, Central, Hong Kong. 香港中环遮打道16-20号历山大厦2楼202

Contemporary French

Sushi Mori Tomoaki

Connaught Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环干诺道中5号香港文华东方酒店 q +852 2825 4014

Individual Bookings: Thu & Sat: 19:30 Privatizations: Mon-Sat: 19:30 (Closed on Sundays) A Ladies are requested to wear elegant

Dinner: 18:00-23:00

attire and proper footwear. Gentlemen are

澳门葡京路新葡京酒店三楼

Tea lounge: 11:00-23:00

kindly asked to wear a smart shirt, long

q +853 8803 7722

A Smart Casual

trousers and closed-toe shoes.

3/F, Grand Lisboa, Av. De Lisboa, Macau

Lunch: 12:00-14:30 Dinner: 18:30-22:30

Chún 淳 5

Contemporary Cantonese

Fook Lam Moon

UWE

福临门

5

5

Ground floor, MGM COTAI, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹体育馆大马路美狮美高梅G层

澳门路氹城「澳门银河」2楼2008 q +853 8883 2221

q +853 8806 2388

Lunch: Mon-Fri: 11:00-15:00; Sat-Sun: 11:00-17:00 Dinner: 18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual

Dear Lilly 5

Lunch: 11:00–15:00 Dinner: 18:00–23:00

A Smart Casual

Koks 5

Faroese Frammi við Gjónna, Leynavatn, Faroe

Contemporary Western & Cocktails Shop 4010, Podium Level 4, IFC Mall, 8 Finance Street, Central, Hong Kong

Cantonese 2008, 2/F, Galaxy Macau™, Cotai, Macau

Islands q +298 333 999

香港中环金融街8号国际金融中心商场4楼 4010 q +852 2771 6060

Sun-Wed: 11:30-00:00 Thu-Sat: 11:30-01:00

Duddell’s 都爹利会馆 5

Cantonese Level 3, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell Street, Central, Hong Kong

香港中环都爹利街1号上海滩3及4楼 q +852 2525 9191

Lunch: 12:00-15:00

Man Wah 文华厅 5

Cantonese 25th floor, Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Road, Central, Hong Kong

Hong Kong 香港上环荷李活道252号 q +852 2546 8665

Mon-Sat: 19:00-22:00

VEA Restaurant 5

q +852 2825 4003

Lunch: Mon-Fri: 12:00-14:30; Sat-Sun: 11:30-15:00

Innovative Chinese-French 29/F-30/F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong

香港中环威灵顿街198号The Wellington 29 及30楼 q +852 2711 8639

29F: 17:00-01:00 30F: 18:45-00:00 (Closed on Sundays) A Smart Casual

Vida Rica 御苑餐厅及酒廊 5

Chinese & Western 2/F, Mandarin Oriental, Macau, n.°945

香港中环干诺道中5号香港文华东方酒店25 楼

European G/F, 252 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan,

Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau 澳门新口岸新填海区孙逸仙大马路 945 号 澳门文华东方酒店二楼 q +853 8805 8918

Breakfast: 06:30-10:30

Dinner: Mon-Sat: 18:00-23:00;

Dinner: 18:30-22:00

Sun: 18:00-22:00

A Smart Casual

Dinner: 18:00-22:00

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TK | the faroe islands

Lunch: 12:00-15:00

DAVID HARTUNG

8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA

Provider of a wide selection of premium fish products from the Faroe Islands.

NEVIĂ? www.nevid.fo info@nevid.fo +298 477800

DESSERT

At Katrina Christiansen restaurant, Chef Jóhan Joensen serves unique dishes that take inspiration from both Faroese culinary traditions and Spanish tapas-style cuisine. One sweet example is his variation on tarta de Santiago, a rich Galician almond cake traditionally dusted with powdered sugar to form a cross.

Instead, Joensen pairs it with a very Faroese rhubarb sauce and a marmalade of Nordic berries. 「Katrina Christiansen」餐厅主厨 Jóhan Joensen 呈现一系列美味料理，烹调灵感源自法罗烹饪传统和 西班牙小菜饮食文化，其中经改良的圣地亚哥蛋糕就是 Jóhan 的一款代表性甜品。根据传统，

这款源自西班牙加利西亚的杏仁蛋糕面上撒有十字架形状的糖粉，而 Jóhan 则匠心独运，

DAVID HARTUNG

为蛋糕配上法罗群岛的大黄酱和以北欧浆果制成的橘子酱。

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HiddenFjord continues to lead the world in Sustainable and Innovative methods of raising superior Atlantic salmon in the Wild.

HiddenFjord salmon lives a stress-free life in its natural environment around the Faroe Islands with no antibiotics and no hormones throughout. www.HiddenFjord.com • P/F Luna, FO-510 Gøta, Faroe Islands • Tel +298 66 21 00 • luna@luna.fo