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T A S T I N G K I T C H E N 35

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ISTANBUL

Opening the Palace Gates

开启殿堂大门

İZMIR Rich Tradition 烤出经典

ANTALYA

Ancient Roots Awaken 唤醒远古之根


STARTER BY ASITANE RESTAURANT, ISTANBUL

D I P S P L AT T E R 蘸酱拼盘

Clockwise from top right, then center:

右上方顺时针而下,接着正中间 :

In a very early version of hummus dating to 1469, boiled and peeled chickpeas are partially puréed with currants, pine nuts, cinnamon, olive oil, and a touch of garlic.

即将煮过的鹰豆剥皮,加进黑醋栗、松子、

The lor cheese blend, which combines fresh cottage cheese with freshly chopped scallions, parsley, green peppers, and tomatoes, is seasoned with rosemary and paprika. Although the dish itself dates to 1898, Asitane follows a recipe from a 1908 Ottoman-era cookbook. Asitane’s chefs follow an 1844 recipe for their fava spread, although owner Batur Durmay thinks the dish was made in Istanbul for centuries before that. Carrots and onions lend natural sweetness to the mashed broad beans. Pounded cucumber salad, originating from an 1844 menu, features mashed cucumbers, onions, and pistachios bound in a thick, creamy yogurt. A grape leaf stuffed with sour cherries, rice, onions, and pine nuts also features on a menu from 1844. The sarma, which translates as “wrapped thing,” is lightly cooked in olive oil and seasoned with black pepper and cinnamon. Gerdaniyye is a pâté-like Armenian heritage dish from the 1700s. Lamb chunks are slowly braised with aromatic herbs and then blended with lamb brains. Served on a bed of pickled red cabbage, the dish is topped with sour black plum extract. This Byzantine heritage dish of whole calamari stuffed with a blend of rice, prawns, pine nuts, onions, and currants is baked and then sliced for serving. For this baba ghanoush, charcoal-grilled eggplants and green peppers are blended with housemade yogurt and garlic and then lightly drizzled with spicy oil and served in a fresh tomato.

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历 史 悠 久 的 1469 年 版 本 含 有 鹰 嘴 豆 泥 酱, 肉桂、橄榄油及些许大蒜捣成美味的泥酱。 「lor」综合乳酪里可见新鲜的茅屋乳酪,加 上现切青葱、欧芹、青椒及番茄,以迷迭香 及红辣椒调味。这道菜最早可溯回 1898 年, 餐厅则是参考 1908 年奥斯曼时期的纸本料 理书重制而成。 厨 师 团 队 根 据 1844 年 的 食 谱 制 成 蚕 豆 酱, 但餐厅老板 Batur 表示,其实在数百年前的 伊斯坦堡就有人这样吃了。这道菜主要借红 萝卜及洋葱的天然甜味,为蚕豆泥提味。 这道凉拌黄瓜沙拉源自 1844 年的菜单,包 括黄瓜泥、洋葱,以及裹覆厚厚一层绵密酸 奶的开心果,相当爽口。

1844 年的菜单上还包括这道包裹着酸樱桃、 米饭、洋葱和松子的葡萄叶。菜名 sarma 翻 译成「包裹的东西」 ,用橄榄油煮熟,以黑 胡椒和肉桂调味。

Gerdaniyye 是类似法式肝酱的亚美尼亚传统 料理,最早可溯回 18 世纪。羊颈肉搭配各 式芬香的草本植物细火慢炖,接着加上羊脑, 置于腌紫甘蓝上,洒上酸黑梅汁即大功告成。 此传统拜占庭料理以乌贼为主角,整只乌贼 里镶入米饭、明虾、松子、洋葱及黑醋栗, 烤过后切片上桌。 这道 baba ghanoush 料理中,茄子及青椒经 炭烤后搭配自家制酸奶及大蒜,加上些许辣 油点缀,伴以新鲜番茄,令人胃口大开。


DAVID HARTUNG

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T A S T I N G 35

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L A N D

K I T C H E N B E T W E E N

Tasting Kitchen Limited www.tasting-kitchen.com 2802, Admiralty Centre Tower One 18 Harcourt Road, Hong Kong Tel: +852 3748 3756 Fax: +852 3748 3738

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the world has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

David Hartung

Alicia Beebe

Mamie Hsien Chen

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

ART DIRECTOR

Lucy Morgan

Joey Cheang

Jean Alberti

Andrea Lo

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BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

Inara Sim

Marilyn Burkley Robert Burkley

J. Carl Kerkman, MFA

Vicki Williams

IMAGE EDITOR

Kate Nicholson

TRANSLATION SERVICES

EDITORS

Jane Wong

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Babel Communications

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CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

GROUP ADVERTISING sales@tasting-kitchen.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

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ASSISTANT EDITOR

Terrie Lam

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ADMINISTRATION MANAGER

Asia One Printing

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John Sek DISTRIBUTION EXECUTIVE

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ACCOUNT DIRECTOR

One Logistics

For thousands of years, successive empires ruled Anatolia, the major part of modern-day Turkey. Strategically positioned along ancient spice-trading routes, the peninsula became a channel for introducing new and exotic flavors that have influenced cuisines around the world. From top to bottom: dried capsicum, mahlep, turmeric, sumac berries, allspice berries, nigella seeds, Urfa pepper flakes, mint, dried eggplant shells, purple basil, za’atar, dried baby okra. 数千年来,无数帝国曾先后统治安纳托利亚半岛。从前,这个半岛在古代香料贸易 路线上占据了最具战略性的位置。如今,这里是展现新鲜异国风味的渠道,影响着 世界各地的美食发展。从顶部到底部:干辣椒、马哈利、姜黄、漆树浆果、多香浆 果、黑种草种子、乌尔法胡椒片、薄荷、干茄子皮、紫罗勒、百里香和小秋葵干。

Photography by David Hartung

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©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2018 All rights reserved


LE A SK SH IR A Z 里斯克西拉


PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. This special issue, A Land Between, represents a broad collaboration between Turkish Airlines, the Turkish Tourism Board, and TK. Its theme is a fascinating country of complex juxtapositions – past and present, religious and secular, East and West. Standing under a pale evening sky on Istanbul’s eastern shore of the Bosporus Strait, you’re in Asia; gazing west across the water, you look to Europe and to some of the city’s most legendary landmarks, including Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. We start our journey on the European side by exploring Turkey’s flourishing arts scene. An enterprising Istanbul design team based next to the Grand Bazaar creates homewares inspired by the city’s ancient landmarks. Hyperrealist painter İsmail Acar focuses on traditional Turkish themes like the pomegranate. Artist Şakir Gökçebağ captures the beauty of everyday items in his meticulously composed photographs. Our culinary adventure starts on the outskirts of Istanbul at a restaurant where a team of scholars and chefs have researched and revived the lost flavors of the Ottoman Empire’s palace kitchens. Then we meet a chef who abandoned her studies at Cambridge to pursue a culinary dream. In a building that once housed a Franciscan nunnery, she has created a simple, welcoming venue that belies the modern techniques and unexpected flavor combinations of her kitchen. A short drive away along the strait, a young chef brings influences from his work abroad back to Turkey. The sophistication and finesse of his ever-evolving menu have earned three “pearls” in İncili Gastronomi Rehberi, a new Turkey-only restaurant guide. In the issue’s two photo essays, we tour some of Turkey’s great historical sites and markets, including the famed Spice Market of Istanbul, a Friday market near Antalya on the southern coast, and the immense Kemeralti Market in İzmir. There we also visit a neighborhood bakery specializing in fresh boyoz, a flaky, rich pastry that was brought to the city centuries ago by Sephardic Jews. Our journey ends back home as we introduce five authentic Turkish culinary experiences that can be savored right here in Hong Kong. In our travels, we discovered a country rich in history, diversity, and endless wonder, and we’re delighted to share this issue in hopes that it may inspire Turkish journeys of your own. Enjoy.

MARK HAMMONS

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CONTENTS

4 STARTER 12  Set in Stone  •  14  Fruit as Icon  •  16  Slice and Dice  •  20  Liquid Gold  •  24  Opening the Palace Gates 30  Restoration and Innovation  •  38  Nuance and Finesse  •  42  Rich Tradition  •  46  Profusion for Sale 60  From Europe to Asia  •  84  Ancient Roots Awaken  •  90  Above and Beyond  •  92  Istanbul Nearby

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CONTENTS

110  Kitchen to Camera  •  116  Elegance and Simplicity  •  120  Double Temptations 126  Pleasing Palates  •  130  Raising the Steaks  •  134  The Poetry of Taste  •  136  Lasting Dream 138  Culinary Luminary  •  142  Arctic Harmony  •  150  Uncommon Senses  •  154  Masters in Macau 156 L I S T I N G S   •  160 D E S S E R T

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DAVID HARTUNG

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INSPIRED LIVING

磐石如初

set in stone

An enterprising Istanbul design team takes inspiration from the city’s ancient landmarks.

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DESIGNERS DO ANBERK DEMIR and Yeşim Eröktem, cofounders of Istanbul’s DAY Studio, consider themselves fortunate indeed. On

Doğanberk Demir 与 Yeşim Eröktem 是 伊 斯 坦 堡 DAY Studio 的共同创办人兼设计师。他们的

their doorstep is one of the oldest, largest, most-visited, and most bountiful covered markets in the world, a daily source of new ideas for their stylishly contemporary collections of homewares. Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar, known as Kapalıçarşı in Turkish, has been a key center of retail trade since the fifteenth century. Surviving numerous fires and several major earthquakes, it reigns in the top rank of the most popular of tourist destinations on the planet. The labyrinthine complex of sixty-one covered streets harbors more than four thousand stalls, restaurants, teahouses, and workshops. The vast marketplace is currently undergoing renovations in an attempt by the local government to stabilize the buildings, clean up the exterior, and formalize the management and operations. While some stallholders are celebrating the prospect of clearer passageways and leak-free roofs, others are concerned that rising rents are looming and that they may be forced out. In the face of a rapid ly modernizing Istanbul, Demir and Eröktem see it as a vital mission to explore the legacy of the primordial Turkish handicrafts that the bazaar has nurtured for so many centuries. Through their brand, AVLU, which is Turkish for “courtyard,” they employ contemporary design as a way to transform traditional techniques into marketable products by means of collaborations with local craftspeople. One of the studio’s collections, named Orta, was born from Turkey’s age-old connection with the stone trade. The centerpiece platters of the line are inspired by the marble marquetry of iconic local buildings like Hagia Sophia and are assembled from handselected, locally sourced marble. “We use the same techniques with a contemporary form and color story to bring the essence of ancient architectural design into the twenty-first century,” explains Demir. The Grand Bazaar not only displays an endless medley of miscellanies for the home, it also offers visitors an overwhelming range of edibles sweet and savory. What from among them might DAY Studio’s designers suggest to grace a platter from their Orta line? “It’s a tough choice,” says Eröktem, “but our favorite flavors of Turkish delight piled up in a pyramid would look wonderful.”

家门前就是世界上最古老、规模最大、人潮最

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多而且商品包罗万象的市集。对此,他们感到 非常幸运。在这里,他们每天都能为旗下各种 时尚现代居家用品系列找到灵感。 伊斯坦堡的大巴札,也就是土耳其文指的 「集市」 ,从 15 世纪起就是零售交易的集散中心。 这个集市经历无数次火灾与地震的摧残,至今 却仍在游客最爱景点的排行榜中名列前茅。如 迷宫般复杂的道路,包含了 61 条室内街道,街 道内有四千多家的小摊贩、 餐厅、 茶馆与工作室。 当地政府近来正着手整修这个庞大的交易 市场,希望能加强建筑稳定性、清理外观,也 将市场的管理与运作组织化。有些摊贩为了将 来干净的街道与不漏水的屋顶欢欣鼓舞,有些 则担心可能提高的租借费用将迫使他们另觅他 处。 面对伊斯坦堡的快速现代化,Doğanberk 与 Yeşim 势在必行,要发掘几世纪以来巴札所 蕴含的土耳其传统手工艺。他们透过自创品牌 AVLU,也就是土耳其文的「庭院」 ,与当地工

匠密切合作,将传统技艺以现代设计方式转变 为商品。 其中一个作品系列 Orta,其收藏就诞生自 土耳其石材贸易的古老渊源。作品的灵感来自 中心处是以手工挑选本土大理石材所镶制的石 「我们运用相同的技术, 面。Doğanberk 解释 : 同时以现代的形式与色调,使古老建筑的设计 」 特色重返 21 世纪。 对当地人来说,大巴札除了是无止尽的土 耳其特产大杂烩。对游客而言,这里更是各式 各样的甜品与色香味俱全的美食所在。我们不 禁好奇,DAY Studio 设计团队会如何广纳这些 不同的选择来增艳美化 Orta 系列? Yeşim 说 : 「真的很难做决定。不过,要是把最爱的土耳其 软糖在石盘上堆成一座金字塔,肯定能创造出 绝妙的视觉效果。 」

ART DIRECTION BY DAY STUDIO, PHOTOGRAPHY BY FUUTZ .

于代表性建筑圣索菲亚大教堂上的大理石镶嵌,


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FOOD & ART

果味图腾

fruit as icon

Hyperrealist painter İsmail Acar creates a “new iconism” from traditional Turkish cultural themes.

IMAGE COURTESY OF İSMAIL ACAR

THE P OMEGRANATE was domesticated about five thousand years ago in western Asia, likely around the region that is now northern Turkey, and it followed as humankind crossed continents and birthed new civilizations. Breaking open a pomegranate today is akin to an act of time travel back to the era of the world’s most ancient cultivated fruit crops, a group that also includes figs, dates, grapes, and olives. Today, the pomegranate occupies a time-honored place in the food cultures of many countries, including Turkey. According to acclaimed, Istanbul-based painter ismail Acar, “It is a very enchanting fruit that symbolizes fertility, power, and ingenuity in Turkish and wider Eastern culture.” The pomegranate is grown throughout Turkey, both for its fruit and as a garden ornamental. The deciduous shrub is in season between September and February, when its trumpet-shaped, orange-red flowers balloon into crimson fruit. The seeds with their sweet surrounding arils are separated and sprinkled over salads and desserts. The juice, known as nar suyu in Turkish, is either drunk straight, fermented into wine, or reduced to make nar ekşisi , a syrup used widely in cooking. When an unpicked fruit pops open on a branch and exposes glistening seeds that can number up to fourteen hundred, it becomes clear why the pomegranate is one of humankind’s most venerable symbols of fertility. Traditionally, a Turkish bride would smash a pomegranate and count the spilled seeds to learn how many children she would have, and, to this day, the fruit is presented at weddings. In Pomegranates , Acar’s oil-on-canvas still life shown here,  a ceramic bowl of ripe fruits is viewed from above against an ornately patterned background of classic İznik-style tiles. Through works such as this, Acar seeks to highlight oppositions and continuities between contemporary and traditional aspects of culture. Although the hyperrealist style is modern, the painting’s subject matter evokes deep nostalgic resonances.  “Today’s artists, who are unstoppably searching for change and invention in the arts, are usually defeated by their egos,” Acar notes. “I am arguing in my art that human beings existed in the past, and if we ignore history, unique aspects of fine arts, architecture, and even food culture will lose their meaning.”

约从五千年前,在西亚,大概是现在 的北土耳其地区,石榴成为栽培作物, 而随着人类文明的拓展,石榴也广布 各大洲。打开一颗石榴,就如同穿越 时空到了旧时代,那个人类开始种植 无花果、椰枣、葡萄和橄榄等果类作 物的时代 。 时至今日,石榴已在各国的饮食 文化中占据了举足轻重的地位,土耳 其也不例外。广受好评的伊斯坦堡画

「在土耳其与广大 家 ismail Acar 表示 : 的东方文化中,这种迷人的水果代表 了丰饶、活力与创造力。 」 土耳其境内到处都能看到石榴的 踪迹,这种果实既能食用,又能用来 装饰庭院。每年九月到次年二月是石 榴的盛产季节,呈喇叭状的橘红色花 朵会在那时渐渐像吹气球般地胀大成 鲜红色的果实。将石榴籽与其旁边的 果肉剥离之后,洒在沙拉或甜点上是 很常见的做法。石榴汁,在土耳其语 , 可 以 直 接 单 喝, 里 称 作「nar suyu」 也 能 酿 酒, 甚 至 可 以 浓 缩 做 成「nar

ekşisi」糖浆,广泛使用在各种料理中。 没采收的石榴,会在枝丫上迸发 开来,露出里面闪闪发亮、高达 1400 颗的种籽,也难怪它是人类史上数一数 二最有权威性的丰饶象征了。传统婚礼 中,土耳其新娘会将石榴砸开,数数看 喷出来的种籽有几颗,这代表了以后会 有多少子嗣。时至今日,我们依然能 在现代土耳其婚礼上看到石榴的踪影。 在 ismail 现正展出的布面油画《石

榴》中,以俯视的角度,我们可以看 到 伊 兹 尼 克 风 且 图 案 华 丽 的 磁 砖 上, 摆着一个瓷碗,瓷碗中有一些成熟的

石榴果实。透过这样的画作,ismail 想 强调当代与传统文化的对立与传承。 尽管超写实主义非常现代,画中 的主体却能唤起人们对怀旧元素的共

「 有 些 现 代 艺 术 家, 鸣。ismail 表 示 : 不断在作品中求新求变,最后却常常输 给了自己的自负。我的作品旨在探讨, 人类从过去一步一步走到现在,如果我 们忽视了历史,那么美术、建筑甚至是 饮食文化所带出的独特面貌,都将失去 意义。 」 a land between

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独具慧眼

slice and dice A Turkish-born artist puts a new perspective on ordinary fruits and vegetables.

AN APPLE, a watermelon, a bunch of beans – familiar produce that might conjure up fond mental images of the family kitchen, a country market, or a farmer’s field. But by cutting, slicing, and rearranging such common fruits and vegetables and then capturing the carefully composed results with his lens, Şakir Gökçebağ, in his Cuttemporary Art series of photographs, transforms the viewer’s perceptions of the everyday. Based in Germany, the award-winning artist is best known for his large installations, humorous and mind-bending sculptures made with mundane household items that include everything from toilet paper, oriental rugs, and garden hoses to umbrellas, belts, and brooms. “My main focus lies in objects and materials from daily life,” Gökçebağ explains. “There are a lot of things that help us survive in this world, but we don’t recognize how beautiful they are.” Cuttemporary Art, published widely online and in print since it was completed in 2010, is probably Gökçebağ’s most well-known photo series. Some viewers mesmerized by the intricacy of the images had to be convinced that they were not digitally manipulated by a note to that effect in the artist’s descriptions. “Fruit and vegetables are already perfect,” says Gökçebağ. “It’s difficult to add more to them without disturbing their perfection, but I was bold. In the beginning, I started the project as play.” His work Apple Peel, in fact, was inspired by a childhood game with his playmates to see who could cut the longest ribbon of skin from an apple.

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IMAGE COURTESY OF ŞAKIR GÖKÇEBAĞ

FOOD & ART

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IMAGE COURTESY OF ŞAKIR GÖKÇEBAĞ (2)

FOOD & ART

Because the process of making each photograph was so laborious, it took Gökçebağ five years to complete the series. Thorough planning of the patterns was essential. “There’s very limited time to take each photo, and I have almost no time to experiment – it’s very stressful.” Since preserving the freshness of the produce is essential to the final result, cutting it up was the trickiest part of the process: “You need to work very quickly, because as you’re finishing with the last piece, the first one is already starting to look old.” Despite his perfectionism, Gökçebağ’s output is prolific. He has held thirteen solo exhibitions in six countries in the past five years and has never shown an artwork twice. Perhaps it’s because he finds inspiration everywhere, from DIY and discount stores to flea markets and Turkish bazaars. “For me, they’re all installations,” he says. “And there are lots of images around us that are waiting to be captured. They just need someone to discover them.”

提到一个苹果、一颗西瓜或是一堆豆子等熟悉的物品,或许会让人想像到家庭厨 房、乡村市集,或是农夫的田野。然而,平凡无奇的蔬果,透过适当的切块、削 片与重新排列,再加上镜头捕捉,就能成为 Şakir Gökçebağ 相片集《Cuttemporary Art》的一员,进一步改变世人对日常用品的看法。 Şakir Gökçebağ 获奖无数,目前居住于德国,以大型装置艺术还有幽默古怪 的雕刻闻名,而这些作品的材料都是来自触手可及的日用品,从卫生纸、东方风 「我的焦点就 格的地毯、庭院水管到雨伞、皮带、扫帚,无奇不有。Şakir 解释 : 放在这些日常的物品和材料,许多生存必需品都蕴含着我们尚未发现的美。 」 《Cuttemporary Art》在 2010 年完成,至今已在网路及实体商店广为流传, 可以说是 Şakir 最家喻户晓的相片集。因为相片中的物品纵横交错非常复杂,许多 看得读者还以为是使用了电脑特效,为此他还得特地在书中加注提醒「绝无修图」 。 「蔬菜与水果已经完美无瑕,要在不破坏完美的情况下再锦上添花 Şakir 说 : 非常困难,不过我就是这么大胆爱玩。一开始,这个相片系列我只当作是休闲消 遣。 」他的作品《苹果皮》其实就是源自于他的童年游戏,当时他总爱与他的玩伴 比比看谁能削出最长的果皮缎带。

Şakir 花了整整五年完成这个相片集。 每个作品都必须要有完整的事前构思。 他表示 : 「可以拍摄的时间极度短暂,所以我更不可能悠哉地去找最好的角度,整 个过程犹如泰山压顶。 」每个作品都需要新鲜的材料才能拍得好看,所以动手切 「下手必须快狠准,不然切完最后一块,第一块 块是最艰难的一部分。Şakir 说 : 就开始氧化了。 」虽然秉持完美主义,Şakir 却还是能出产许多作品。过去五年间, 他在六个不同的国家开过 13 次个人展览,而且每一次都没有展出重复的作品。这 或许得归功于他「生活处处是灵感」的信念,从 DIY 商店找到折扣店,再从跳蚤 市场找到土耳其巴札。他说 : 「对我来说,这些都是装置艺术。生活中到处都是美 好的画面,等待被发觉,缺的只是一个伯乐。 」

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DESIGN

液态黄金

liquid gold

The stairs leading from the main lobby to the administrative office. 从加工厂大厅通往办公室的楼梯。

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WHEN ONUR MERAL and his wife, Asli, bought a large block of farmland in Turkey’s scenic Aegean Region, they didn’t even know what types of trees covered the hills that roll down to the sea. Working with award-winning Turkish architect Han Tümertekin, a longtime friend, the couple built a weekend retreat for their family near the shore, transforming a historic ruined villa into a contemporary holiday home. The more time Meral spent at his coastal property near the tiny ancient village of Bademli, and the more he engaged in agriculture, the more he wanted it to become a full-time way of life. “The grounds had around fifteen hundred very old olive trees,” he notes, “but no roads, power, water, or communication. During development of the infrastructure and renovation of the existing ruins, I fell in love with the land and the trees.” Meral visited olive orchards and mills across Europe and undertook courses in Tuscany and Spain’s Province of Jaén, eventually swapping his military contracting business for farming in 2005. When the house was finished in 2004, the couple began expanding their property by purchasing surrounding land and working to achieve organic certification, with which they were accredited by ECOCERT in 2006. “Because today’s olive oil market is flooded with adulterated and mislabeled products,” Meral explains, “we reject

Onur Meral 与 妻 子 Asli 买 下 这 一 大 片 土 耳其爱琴海地区的农地时,他们压根不知 道那些从山丘上一直绵延到海边的树究竟 是什么树。获奖无数的土耳其建筑师 Han Tümertekin 是两人的多年好友。在 Han 的 帮助下,这座古老荒废的别墅被改建成一 座现代渡假屋,当作周末休憩处。 在这个邻近古老村庄 Bademli 的海边 小屋待得越久,Onur 就越投入农家生活, 越想成为一位全职农夫。他说 : 「这片土地 上大概有 1500 棵非常老的橄榄树,不过这 里没有道路、没有电力,也没有水和通讯 设备。但随着基础建设的发展及遗留废墟 的翻修整理,我渐渐爱上这片土地,爱上 这些老树。」Onur 陆续拜访许多欧洲的橄 榄果园和加工厂,还到托斯卡纳与西班牙 的哈恩进修相关课程,终于在 2005 年抛下 军方承包商的身分,转职成一名农夫。 小屋在 2004 年完工后,两人开始拓展 领土,购买邻近土地,并努力申请有机认证, 最后在 2006 年获得国际生态认证中心的肯 定。Onur 解释 : 「现在橄榄油市场充满许多 成分不明和名不副实的商品。我们反对主流 的农作方式,坚持手工采收,而且不打生 长激素,不用农药,更不使用化肥。 」如今, Angelos Olive Oil 果园已拥有将近四百亩的 土地,种植约五千棵有机橄榄树。Angelos 是邻村的原名,Onur 解释这是「向五百年 前在此地种下橄榄树苗的先民致敬。 」 当土地与作物都准备就绪,Onur 夫妇 便兴致勃勃地想尽快开始生产橄榄油。不 过想取得有机认证,仅自行种植与采摘还 不够,还得自己榨油。于是两人又带着加

M. CEMAL EMDEN (2)

A weekend family retreat turns into a thriving producer of premium olive oil.


Looking south, the showroom and oil-tasting counter 陈列室和橄榄油品尝柜台


DESIGN

The main building and pressing area where olives are unloaded, weighed, and conveyed to production 橄榄的卸载、称重及榨油工序都在加工区完成。图为主建筑和加工区

mainstream farming methods. We harvest by hand and refrain from using hormones or chemical pesticides or fertilizers.” Today, a grove of around five thousand organic olive trees sits on the nearly four hundred acres of the Angelos Olive Oil orchard. Angelos, the former name of the nearby village, is, says Meral, “a tribute to the ancient farmers of the area who planted the initial orchards here half a millennium ago.” With the land and the trees in readiness, the Merals were eager to start producing olive oil. Organic certification requires that the Meral family not only grow and harvest their own olives, but press them as

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well. The couple reached out once again to Tümertekin with their plans for a processing plant, a facility that would fit naturally into the local environment and support traditional, low-tech oil production methods. Materials like concrete, galvanized steel, copper, and volcanic stone would help the structure to blend with the surroundings and would be extremely low-maintenance. After three years of construction, two of which were spent obtaining the permits necessary to alter the heritage-listed site, the Angelos mill began operation in 2015. While Meral takes care of the agricultural side of the Angelos Olive Oil, his wife handles the

finances, and their daughter, a recent university graduate, manages the company’s marketing. The production facility is complemented by a guest house, a shop, and an office. The plant relies on gravity and a natural vacuum instead of electrical pumps to transfer the oil from the manufacturing site to storage tanks. The oil never comes in contact with any plastic pipes or tubing and is stored at a constant temperature of 18-20°C. As the olives enter the mill, they are stone crushed, pressed, and coldkneaded at a maximum of 27°C. “In short, we try to be as gentle as possible with our


Looking east to the olive reception ramp. 从前台向东看,是一望无际的橄榄树

The Angelos Olive Oil mill complex, looking west to the Aegean Sea and Lesvos Island.

M. CEMAL EMDEN (3)

Angelos Olive Oil 果园的西边是爱琴海以及希腊的莱斯沃斯岛

estate-grown olives and the resulting liquid gold,” says Meral. The olive groves that dot the rolling coastlines of the Aegean typically produce oils with a hint of peppery citrus, and Angelos Olive Oil is no exception. Meral suggests pairing their zesty variety with traditional fare like Turkish shepherd’s salad, grilled fish, artichokes, or fava bean paste, dishes that bring a touch of the region’s ancient pastoral heritage to the dining table. “This is our land, our home, our sanctuary,” says Meral. “We’re not trying to maximize production or profits, we’re just trying to give the land and its produce what it deserves.”

工厂的计划去找 Han,希望建造一座既 融入环境,又符合传统低科技设备的榨 油设施。使用混凝土、镀锌钢、铜与火 山石等材料,便可让这座加工厂犹如隐 身于大自然中,又非常易于维护。 经过两年取得文化遗产改建许可证 的时间,再加上一年的建造,Angelos 加 工厂总算在 2015 年开始营运。Onur 统 筹 Angelos Olive Oil 果 园 的 农 业 工 作, 妻子管理金融财务,最近刚大学毕业的 女儿则负责市场行销。厂内配有会客室、 贩卖部与办公室。 加工厂采用重力与自然真空方式, 而非电力泵来输送成品油到储存槽。成 品油不会经过任何塑胶管道,储存槽温

度也被控管在 18 到 20 度。 橄榄送进厂 内,先经过石头的辗压,接着在不超过 27 度的环境低温搓揉。Onur 表示 : 「简 单来说,我们尽可能地温柔对待自产的 橄榄与从中榨取的液态黄金。」 白浪滔滔的爱琴海岸所孕育的橄榄 树,榨出的橄榄油通常带有辛辣柑橘香, Angelos Olive Oil 果 园 也 不 例 外。Onur 建议以他们的美味橄榄油来搭配传统小 吃,例如土耳其牧羊人沙拉、烤鱼、洋 蓟或是蚕豆酱等富有古老本土乡村文化 的料理。Onur 说 : 「这里是我们的土地, 我们的家,我们的避风港。我们不追求 最大的产量或利润,只想要给这里的土 地与农产一份该有的尊重。」 a land between

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开启殿堂大门

opening the palace gates Scholars and culinary experts rediscover the exotic lost flavors of the Ottoman Empire. BY MAMIE CHEN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

Couscous 小米饭

Asitane special orders this traditional “Maraş” couscous from southeast Turkey. Villagers there follow a 1910 recipe that requires twice the normal amount of egg yolk and that each individual dough ball be rolled around a cracked-wheat center. The boiled couscous is tossed in butter with walnuts, red pepper flakes, and parsley and is then liberally sprinkled with a crumbly Turkish cheese.

此一土耳其东南部传统「Maraş」小 米 饭 相 当 有 特 色, 当 地 村 民 依 照

1910 年食谱的古法,使用比一般量 多 2 倍的蛋黄,每个面团都以碎麦杆 为中心推开。煮过的小米饭加入奶 油、核桃、红椒片及欧芹搅和,最后 洒上大量的土耳其乳酪碎片即可。 A LAND BETWEEN | TK |

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IN 1539, Suleiman the Magnificent ordered a feast of one hundred dishes for the circumcision ceremony of his two youngest sons, Bayezid and Cihangir. No intimate family gathering, this epic affair surely called for a guest list numbering in the thousands or the tens of thousands, as was typical of the period for such history-making royal festivities. But even the magnificent one himself couldn’t have envisioned that records of the fabulous banquet’s menu would survive the passing centuries and spark, long after the empire’s dissolution, a revival of interest in Ottoman imperial cuisine. The result is the remarkable Istanbul restaurant Asitane, whose name, meaning “doorway” or “opening gates,” is an old Persian sobriquet for the capital city. “My family,” says Batur Durmay, “started this venture back in 1990 with only two cookbooks.” At the time, the family’s main interests were in industrial manufacturing and international trade, and they had originally planned to open a high-end traditional Turkish-cuisine restaurant as a place to entertain business guests. “My mom,” explains Durmay, “was fed up with the cooking and especially the clean-up involved in hosting at home.” Even in Asitane’s early stages, the prodigious quantities of academic research and culinary sleuthing that went into recovering and recreating the lost dishes of Ottoman imperial cuisine made it far more than a business side project. Permission was painstakingly sought and usually obtained to access palace, ministerial, and public library archives, as well as a number of private collections of handwritten documents and printed books from the era. Scholars were hired to pore through firsthand accounts of the feasts, ledgers of palace kitchens, and accounting records from the royal treasury and port customstax clearinghouses. “As we went deeper into the research, we realized that we could actually recreate everything,” says Durmay. Although original recipes did not exist in written form, the team found documentation of everything imported into Istanbul as well as the

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Batur Durmay

products and ingredients handpicked by the palace staff and the prices paid. The Asitane team managed to identify a lamb stew called mutanjene from the 1539 feast menu. “We had only the name of the dish, but we knew the exact date,” says Durmay. “We were able to establish the recipe by going through the lists of

ingredients ordered for Topkapi Palace’s second kitchen.” Durmay is confident about their methodology, despite the guesswork inherent in recreating a long-forgotten cuisine prepared by a protective cooks’ guild determined to keep their recipes and techniques a proprietary secret passed only from master to


Lamb stew 炖羔羊

1539 年,苏莱曼一世一声令下,宫廷 全员动起来,为他最小的两名幼子巴耶塞 德和吉汉吉尔的割礼仪式打造百道菜肴的 豪华盛宴。此一史诗级宴席非仅为王族至 亲所设,可说是当年意义重大的皇室欢庆 活动代表之一。但在帝国繁华落尽数个世 纪后,这份豪奢宴会的食谱竟会再次问世, 让世人一窥奥斯曼帝国宫廷料理之妙,这 恐是苏莱曼一世也万万想不到的。 让此一盛宴重现人间的正是伊斯坦堡 著名的「Asitane」餐厅,餐厅名称有「门廊」 或「打开大门」的意思,而伊斯坦堡曾是 奥斯曼帝国首都,餐厅的名字也是古时波 斯语中对这座城的绰号。Batur Durmay 回 想当年说道 : 「1990 年,我的家族开始发 展餐饮业,而起初仅有两本料理书。」当时 家族产业以工业制造及国际贸易为主,原 本是打算开一家高级传统土耳其菜餐厅, 为接待客户之用。他解释 : 「我母亲不想每 天耗在煮菜上,她受不了餐後的清理工作。」

Originally served on the third day of the 1539 feast celebrating the circumcision of two of Suleiman the Magnificent’s sons, this recipe for mutanjene, or lamb stew, is flavored with apricots, Rezaki raisins, and almonds. It was recreated from information gathered from ancient order lists preserved in the Topkapi Palace archives. 这道 mutanjene 炖羔羊料理出现在

1539 年苏莱曼一世为庆祝两名幼子 完成割礼,举办绵延数天的豪华宴 席的第三天,以杏桃、Rezaki 葡萄 干及杏仁调味而成。团队是由托普 卡匹皇宫档案库中的古老食材清单 中拼凑出烹调作法。

「Asitane」 开 业 之 初, 家 族 成 员 便 埋 首庞大的学术资料中,推敲烹饪方式,投 注心力重新开发、改良失传的奥斯曼宫廷 料理,让餐厅不再只是个家族产业的附加 项目。取得资料阅读许可的过程甚为艰辛, 不仅要造访古时宫殿、政府机关及公共图 书馆档案库,还要拜会收集当时各种手写 文件及纸本书籍的私人收藏家,更要邀集 学者专家钻研有关宴席、宫廷厨房帐本、 国库会计资料及港埠清关关税资料等。 Batur 表示 : 「随着研究越发深入,我 们开始意识到我们或许真能完整地再现这 份食谱。」原食谱虽没有找到文字版,但 团 队 把 相 关 文 件 全 部 翻 了 一 遍, 包 括 伊 斯坦堡的进口产品明细、宫廷人员亲自挑 选的产品及食材清单,以及花费细项。最 终,从当年宴席菜单中,团队找出一道名 为 mutanjene 的炖羔羊料理。Batur 兴奋表 示: 「当时手上唯一的线索就是菜名,但我 们知道确切的日期,所以可以对托普卡帕 a land between

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Stuffed melon 蜜瓜镶肉

宫第二厨房所购买的食材名单进行交叉比 对,把食谱拼凑出来。」 保护食谱及烹饪技巧不外传为当地厨 师工会多年的传统,坚持秘方仅能由师傅 传给徒弟,要能再现失传多年的菜肴可说 困难重重,过程中需要不断猜测推敲,但 Batur 对 团 队 采 用 的 方 法 仍 是 信 心 十 足。 「Asitane」的 mutanjene 现代版便是最好的 例证,这道菜首见于餐厅 2001 年菜单。这 道菜再现的四年前,餐厅接待一位十分认 同餐厅理念的印度客人,这位客人回国后 特别从一叠历史悠久的文件中挖出一本料 理书寄回土耳其。书上记载着同时代的莫 卧儿宫廷料理作法,其中有道名为 mutanjan pulao 的菜看来相当眼熟,其食材、烹 饪法和成品看来和餐厅的炖羔羊简直一模 一样。Batur 分析 : 「就保存食谱来说,莫 卧儿王朝的厨子们比起奥斯曼的同业厉害 多 了。Mutanjan pulao 的 经 验 告 诉 我, 我 们走的方向是对的。」 餐厅现在供应超过 300 道料理,菜式 首创时间横跨七百年,从 13 世纪安那托利 亚的塞尔柱帝国晚期到 20 世纪初期奥斯曼 帝国崩解为止,令人印象深刻。Batur 表示, 「Asitane」每年增加 10 到 12 道新菜 : 「经 营餐厅至今 25 多年,研究手写原文及书 籍也差不多到极限了,所以我们又回头检 视过去舍弃不用的食谱,看看是否有有趣、

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Another dish gleaned from descriptions of the 1539 feast, this cored melon is stuffed with a blend of minced meat, rice, herbs, almonds, and currants and then baked in the oven. 蜜瓜镶肉是另一道重现当年宴席的仿 古料理,果心镶入碎肉、米饭、草本 植物、杏仁及黑醋栗后,放烤箱过烤 即可上桌。

值得再试一遍的菜式。」90 年代,部分 客人对于使用动物内脏的菜肴接受度不 高,但随着越来越多米其林星级餐厅采 用「从头至尾」,即将食材物尽其用的作 法后,「Asitane」也再次将选用网膜油、 脾脏及羊脑等部位的料理端上桌。 餐厅至今仍会接到土耳其本地或国 外 学 者 捎 来 的 讯 息, 表 示 手 上 有 曾 受 邀至宫廷或高官家中宴席的客人所留的 古时纪录手札和纪录,可供他们参考。 Batur 说 : 「在把副本寄过来的时候,他 们会说『我在哪年哪月曾和你吃过饭。 找到的资料你应该会有兴趣?』有时候 寄来的资料倒也真能派上用场。我们会 持续不断地重现更多失传的食谱!」

apprentice. Validation of Asitane’s version of mutanjene, first introduced on its 2001 menu, came four years ago when a guest from India was so taken with the restaurant’s concept that he mailed them a cookbook, also based on centuries-old documents, that featured the Mughal imperial cuisine of the same period. One recipe for a dish called mutanjan pulao looked very familiar. Overall, its ingredients, techniques, and results were the same as those of Asitane’s stew. “The Mughal cooks were better at recording their recipes than the Ottomans,” says Durmay, “and their mutanjan pulao proved to me that we were on the right track.” The restaurant now has an impressive collection of more than three hundred dishes spanning over seven centuries of culinary history from the late Anatolian Seljuk Sultanate of the 1200s to the end of the Ottoman Empire in the early 1900s. Asitane, says Durmay, continues to develop about ten to twelve new dishes a year: “After more than twenty-five years in business, we’re reaching the limit of the written sources and books. But we’re going back through recipes that we discarded in the past and finding the ones that might be interesting to try again.” In the 1990s, guests were not at all receptive to dishes featuring offal. But with the modern embrace of nose-to-tail dining in a growing number of Michelin-starred restaurants, Asitane has seen fit to reintroduce offerings with caul fat, stuffed spleen, or lamb brain. On occasion, the restaurant continues to receive communications from scholars in Turkey or abroad who have come across ancient memoirs and reports written by guests who ate in the imperial palace or at the homes of high-level officials. “They send us copies and say, ‘I dined with you back in such-and-such year. I found this – would it be interesting to you?’ Sometimes they prove useful. This is a project that we’ll always be working on.”


Milk pudding 牛奶布丁 Helatiye , a milk pudding infused with gum mastic, is served with seasonal fruits and roasted pistachios and almonds in a very light rose-water syrup. The late-nineteenth-century dessert became an instant classic at Asitane when it was introduced on the menu more than twenty years ago.

源于 19 世纪晚期的 Helatiye 为一款混和乳 香脂制成的牛奶布丁,搭配时令水果及烘 烤过的开心果及杏仁,最后缀以一点玫瑰 水糖浆,韵味十足。 「Asitane」20 多年前 首度把 Helatiye 引进菜单,旋即成为餐厅 的招牌经典甜点。


Clarified tomato jelly with edible flowers, hot pepper pickles, and sorrel sorbet 透明番茄冻佐食用花、腌辣椒、酸模冰糕

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传统与创新

restoration and innovation Turkey’s traditional flavors speak with a modern French accent.

BEFORE THE FIRST GLASS of wine is poured, 座落于伊斯坦堡的「Nicole」餐厅,邀请 the amuse-bouche is served, or the bread 各方老饕食客一同踏上美食之旅 — 葡萄美 basket makes its rounds, the multi-course 酒于杯中流转、餐前精致小点挑逗饕客的 tasting journey at Istanbul’s Nicole Restau味蕾、面包篮在餐桌上巡回传递,还有一 rant begins with a vibrantly green pick-me-up, 道道让客人大饱口福的菜式。但在大快朵 a mock aperitif of rocket, parsley, and apple 颐之前,餐厅先呈上以芝麻叶、欧芹、苹 juice. “We can at least start you with a detox果汁调制而成的一杯绿意盎然的餐前饮料, ifying cleanser,” jokes owner and chef Aylin 替接下来的飨宴拉开序幕。餐厅老板兼主 Yazıcıo lu, in acknowledgment of 厨 Aylin Yazıcıo lu 开 玩 笑 地 说 : BY the extravagant indulgence of her 「我们至少要先让客人来一杯排 MAMIE CHEN soon-to-be-savored, wine-paired 毒良方。」她心里十分清楚,搭 degustation menu. 配美酒的菜式即将上桌,将是极 PHOTOGRAPHY BY In truth, Nicole Restaurant 致奢华的享受。 DAVID HARTUNG takes inspiration from the build「Nicole」 的 建 筑 前 身 是 为 ing’s therapeutic heritage. It was 长者提供临终照护的方济各女 formerly a Franciscan nunnery that provided 修道院,受这段治疗照护的历史启发,餐 elder hospice care and is named for its last 厅命名为「Nicole」,以纪念女修道院的最 mother superior, Agnès Marthe Nicole. “We 后一任院长 Agnès Marthe Nicole。Aylin 表 too are restoring people in some manner,” 示: 「某种层面来说,我们也是在照护他人, says Yazıcıo lu. “The idea is to make guests 要尽力让客人从一踏进餐厅并在餐桌就座 feel well-taken-care-of from the moment 开始,就觉得受到妥善的照顾。」 they enter and sit down.” Aylin 当初投身餐饮界的动力,正是来 Yazıcıo lu was motivated to enter the 自本身对烹饪的热爱,以及服务客人的喜 industry by her personal love of cooking 悦。当年于剑桥大学就读博士班,她就苦 and by the pleasure she derives from serv心思索是否该走上专业厨师的道路。为了 ing guests. As a University of Cambridge 考验自己的决心,她非常理性地给自己一 PhD student pondering a career as a chef, 项测试 — 在英国一间收费低廉的酒吧当 she very rationally assigned herself an endur厨师。她测试自己在恶劣的工作环境下, ance test: could she survive as a cook in a 对厨师这项职业的憧憬,是会被消磨殆尽 cheap British pub, and would she con还是乐此不疲。测验的结果再明确不过, tinue to love the profession while working Aylin 毅然告别学术界,进军美食厨艺的新 under the worst of conditions? When the 世界。她先是进入巴黎蓝带厨艺学校就读, answers were solidly affirmative, she left 随后在不同厨艺专业间转换,精进自己的 academia and fast-tracked her way into the 厨艺。Aylin 曾在米其林星级餐厅服务,也 culinary world, first by way of Le Cordon 曾在巴黎的烘焙坊和巧克力工坊工作,并 Bleu in Paris and then by fine-honing her 在 2013 年返回伊斯坦堡开设「Nicole」。 skills across different disciplines. She Aylin 说道 : 「我希望餐厅环境让客人 worked at Michelin-starred restaurants and 觉得前来用餐就好像来到我家做客一样,

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Chef and owner Aylin Yazıcıoğlu 主厨兼老板 Aylin Yazıcıoğlu

at a patisserie and a chocolaterie in Paris before returning to Istanbul and opening Nicole in 2013. “I wanted my restaurant to have an environment similar to what it would be if I were having guests at home and cooking the entire meal for them,” she says. “So I wanted to have the know-how – for the cuisine and the pâtisserie and

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the chocolates and the bread and the ice cream – and it went on and on like this.” If her seminal concept was to entertain in a manner that was home style, in practice her cuisine is anything but. Yazıcıo lu rigorously applies modern French techniques to classic Turkish ingredients. Her dishes are prepared with Gallic precision and elegantly plated to juxtapose textures,

而我替他们煮了完整的一顿饭。所以我想 要学到这些技术,包括主菜、糕点、巧克力、 面包、冰淇淋等等,就这样一直学下去。」 Aylin 最根本的理念,是让客人拥有在 家享受美食的用餐经验,但成果却跟想像 的不一样。Aylin 严格谨慎地以现代法式技 巧诠释传统土耳其食材,端出的菜式不仅 具有法式厨艺的精准细致,摆盘更优雅地 呈现食材的质地、色泽、形状,既有强烈 对比,也有平衡协调。除此之外,Aylin 选 用新鲜的当地食材,自然令土耳其人感到 亲切万分。她表示 : 「来『Nicole』用餐的 外国客人,都觉得餐点非常具有土耳其风 味。但对土耳其客人来说,这里的餐点却 带有点异国风味。他们可能会盯着一道看 起来非常现代的菜式,以为自己从未尝过, 但当闭上眼睛仔细品尝,嘴里的味道和香 气会让他们记起自己身在伊斯坦堡。」 深受外婆一道牛奶酱腌青辣椒的家传 料理启发,Aylin 开创一道创意十足、令人 耳目一新的新菜式 :透明的西红柿汁冻, 淋上一点点的酸辣腌酱,最后再以食用花 增添颜色。这道有如视觉飨宴般的菜式, 运用了土耳其客人不熟悉的现代料理技巧。 Aylin 说 : 「但当整道菜的滋味在嘴里迸发, 你尝到的正是我外婆家传的腌青辣椒。」 Aylin 也 以 相 似 的 方 式 重 新 诠 释 奶 奶 常做的咸酥饼。「Nicole」版本的酥饼采用 鲜嫩多汁的鸭胸和鹌鹑肉,取代传统的鸟 肉 内 馅。Aylin 也 以 法 式 酥 皮 替 代 土 耳 其 yufka 薄饼,并且按照法式传统皇冠杏仁派 的样式,在肉饼的顶端雕出漩状线条,并 将饼缘修成花瓣状。虽然食材不同、模样 翻新,但比起法式派塔,「Nicole」的肉饼 依然拥有土耳其酥饼的灵魂。 Aylin 说 : 「我不想听起来很民族主义, 但对我来说,菜式一定要呈现出当地的滋 味。我端出的食物,一定要新鲜又处于最 佳风味。要达到这样的口味,自然要使用 当地食材。」为了采用市场买得到的当季食 材,Aylin 的菜单每六周就会更新一次。她 想起有次逛完市场,手上提着一大堆心血 来潮买下的新鲜酸模 : 「有时候一些食材会 对我说话,我知道这听起来很好笑,我买 的时候根本不知道要怎么料理,但我看到 就知道必定要买下来。」 幸好「Nicole」的厨师团队年轻有朝气, 充满想法并勇于尝试。他们发现虽然酸模 太过酸涩,不适合当作沙拉的生菜,但却


Lamb with date purée, bulgur, mint, coriander, and purple basil 羊肉佐椰枣泥、布格麦、薄 荷、香菜、紫罗勒


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Amuse bouche of lamb’s head kofta, onion and cheese tartlet, and flowering mini courgettes with tartar sauce 餐前精致小点:羊头肉丸、洋葱乳 酪馅饼、开花翠玉瓜佐塔塔酱

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Sashimi-style bonito lakerda with radish salad, pink grapefruit chutney, and salted pink grapefruit 生鱼片式盐腌鲣鱼佐萝卜沙拉、粉红葡萄柚甜酸酱、加盐粉红葡萄柚

colors, and shapes in ways that strike contrasts and create balance. And her use of seasonally fresh, local products inherently expresses the affinities of a Turkish palate. “For foreign guests at Nicole, the food is very Turkish,” she says. “For Turkish guests, the dishes are a little foreign. They may see something that looks very modern and seems to have nothing to do with what they know. But when they close their eyes, the flavors and aromas will remind them that they are in Istanbul.” Inspired by her maternal grandmother’s traditional method of pickling hot green peppers in a milk-based brine, Yazıcıo lu constructs a delightful and innovative dish of clarified tomato juice jelly spiked with a touch of hot-and-sour pickling juice and embellished with edible flowers, a visually striking plate that relies on contemporary techniques perhaps unfamiliar to her Turkish guests. “But,” explains Yazıcıo lu, “when the full flavor blooms in your mouth, you are tasting my grandmother’s hot pepper pickles.” In a similar way, Yazıcıo lu has recreated

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a savory pastry that her paternal grandmother often made. To give it the Nicole twist, she uses succulent duck breast and quail meat in place of the traditional filling of minced juniper bird. And she replaces the Turkish yukfa dough with French puff pastry, delicately scoring the top with spiral lines and scalloping the edges in the style of a classic pithivier. Despite the substitutions and modifications, Nicole’s bird pie in its essence will always be more Turkish börek than French torte. “I don’t want to sound nationalistic,” says Yazıcıo lu, “but for me, the flavors must be local. I want to serve food that’s fresh and at its peak. So taste-wise, it just makes sense to use local products.” Her menu is updated every six weeks to reflect the seasonality of what’s available in the markets. “Sometimes, something will just speak to me. I know it sounds funny,” she says, recalling the time she returned from the market with a large bunch of fresh green sorrel bought on a whim. “I didn’t even know what I was going to do with it, but I saw it and I had to have it.”

Nicole is fortunate to have a young kitchen team full of ideas and unafraid to explore possibilities. They found that while sorrel is much too tart for use as a salad green, it works beautifully in a tangy sorbet, lending an acidity that might otherwise come from lemon or vinegar. A young commis recently mentioned that in his hometown, pink grapefruit is served with salt. Intrigued by the combination, the team tested it as a condiment for fish. “There’s a traditional pickled fish called lakerda that normally takes twentyone days to make,” says Yazıcıo lu. “We make a more sashimi-style lakerda with bonito that only takes a couple hours, so it’s fresher.” The pink grapefruit replaces the traditional lemon and brings a wonderful floral note to the dish. “We have twenty-nine letters in the Turkish alphabet, and all the great novelists work with only those, but just look what they can do,” says Yazıcıo lu. “That’s what this is all about, playing around and trying new things and seeing what we can do.”


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是制成冰沙的绝佳材料,不必使用柠檬或 醋就能提供恰到好处的酸度。 前阵子一名年轻的厨师助理和工作伙 伴分享,自己家乡吃粉红葡萄柚时会洒些 盐巴。这样的吃法激发了厨房团队的想像, 尝试将它当作鲜鱼料理的配菜。Aylin 表示: 「我们有一道传统的盐腌鲣鱼料理,通常要 花 21 天才能制作完成。我们用类似生鱼片 的方式料理盐腌鲣鱼,只需要花几个小时, 所以更新鲜。」而使用粉红葡萄柚取代传统 搭配的柠檬,亦替这道菜增添美妙的香气。 Aylin 接着说道 : 「土耳其语有 29 个字 母,历来最伟大的小说家只用这些字母, 就写出令人赞叹的作品。我们也是这样, 四处摸索、做些新的尝试,看能激荡出怎 样的创作。」

Rocket, parsley, and apple juice 芝麻叶、欧芹、苹果汁

Duck breast and quail pithivier with red cabbage 鸭胸鹌鹑馅饼佐紫甘蓝

Red fruit, basil, and lemon sorbet atop a tuile biscuit and orange parfait with orange foam 薄片饼干搭配红果罗勒柠檬冰糕、橘子芭菲、橘子泡沫酱 a land between

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巧手匠心

nuance and finesse An internationally trained young chef brings his fresh contemporary style to Turkish food.

Marinated Mediterranean sea bass with avocado, mango, and purslane 腌地中海鲈鱼薄片配酪梨、芒果和马齿苋

CHEF/OWNER ISMET SAZ serves only they’re coming for my food.” The infordinner at his acclaimed Istanbul restaumal ambience has presented no obstacles to formal recognition: TOI was awarded rant named TOI, so he and his team are free to spend the whole day in meticua three-pearl rating in incili Gastronomi lous preparation. His modern Rehberi (Pearl Gastronomy BY approach to Turkish cuisine is Guide), the new Turkey-only LUCY MORGAN nuanced with global influences restaurant guidebook. “I’m really happy,” says the chef, stemming from twenty years of PHOTOGRAPHY BY experience that includes work “because we were the youngDAVID HARTUNG abroad with star chefs Gordon est restaurant to receive the Ramsay, Markus Glocker, and accolade.” Gareth Evans. One contributing factor was likely Saz’s commitment to making the most TOI offers its fine-dining cuisine in casual surroundings on the European of local seasonal ingredients. Continual shore of the Bosporus. “My guests don’t revisions to the menu give TOI’s returning have to dress formally,” says Saz, “because guests an unending supply of new dishes

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伊斯坦堡餐厅「TOI」广受好评。作为主 厨及老板的 Ismet Saz 规定,餐厅只在晚餐 时段营业,因此他与团队可以花上一整天 的时间进行一丝不苟的准备。20 年来,他 在 世 界 各 地 与 星 级 主 厨 Gordon Ramsay、 Markus Glocker 还 有 Gareth Evans 共 事。 这些经验或多或少地影响了 Ismet,使他的 土耳其料理现代作法更加国际化。 「TOI」位于伊斯坦布尔海峡的欧洲海 岸,在惬意的气氛中为顾客献上一流的餐 点。Ismet 说 : 「 我 的 客 人 不 需 穿 着 正 式, 因为他们来到这里只是为了尝我做的菜。」 然而,餐厅的休闲氛围丝毫没有阻碍它获 得 正 式 的 肯 定。incili Gastronomi Rehberi (《珍珠美食指南》)是一本新兴土耳其餐厅 评鉴。在这书中,「TOI」获得三颗珍珠的 高评价。Ismet 说 : 「我真的欣喜若狂,因 为我们是史上最快获得这项殊荣的餐厅。」 获奖的其中一个重要因素可归功于 Ismet 对当地季节食材物尽其用的一贯态度, 而菜单不断更新,让回头客可持续尝到新 口味,也让 Ismet 的厨师团队时刻保持警觉。 他说道 : 「我们每两个月就会改动菜单上百 分之七十的内容。我让团队构思一些新菜 式,接着再一起讨论该将哪些想法变成成 品。他们都很年轻、爱好竞争,这也是他 们成长之路与找寻自我的重要养分。 」 Ismet 的餐点大胆创新却不过于标新立 异。他将多汁的龙虾与鲑鱼肉包入饱满的 意大利饺中,再以香气四溢的番茄虾肉汤 作为搭配。他解释 : 「这是夏季限定版本。 到了秋冬时节,饺子内馅会换成黑海的鲭 鱼与沙丁鱼,做出浓厚的口味,而虾肉汤 也换成酱汁,再放上来自保加利亚边境的 鸡油菇当作陪衬。」虽然这道菜看起来很有 意大利风格,但 Ismet 说其实这种面粉制 品在土耳其已流传许久,以前经丝 綢 之路 从中国传来,如今在国内可看到各种饺类 菜式。而 Ismet 对本土食材的坚持,让他 的盘中作品仿如土耳其顶级食材的展示间。


Duck breast is brined and then aged four weeks to produce a halal “prosciutto” with rich gamebird flavor pervading the tender meat. Served with beets for earthy sweetness and a sharp cheese for added umami, this creative example of Turkish charcuterie makes a memorable impression. 鸭胸用盐腌渍后熟成四周,即制成清真「意大利帕玛火腿」,整块软嫩鸭肉充满丰盈的野味味道,与甜菜和 乳酪一同上桌,更具自然甘甜与鲜味。这种创意无限的土耳其熟食冷盘,美妙滋味让人难以忘怀。


to sample and also help keep Saz’s kitchen team on their toes. “We change 70 percent of the menu every two months,” he says. “I let my team create new things, and we decide which ones to feature. They’re young and hungry for competition, and this really helps them grow and find themselves.” Saz’s dishes show bold invention as well as subtle finesse. He presents a plump raviolo filled with juicy lobster and salmon and steeping in a savory shrimp and tomato broth. “This is the summer version,” he explains. “In autumn and winter, I’ll make it with mackerel and sardines from the

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Black Sea for a richer filling and serve it in a sauce with chanterelles that grow near the Bulgarian border.” Although the dish might appear distinctly Italian, Saz explains that pasta has a long history in Turkey. Arriving from China via the Silk Road, it is regularly featured in a variety of national dumpling dishes. His insistence on local ingredients makes the plate a showcase for Turkey’s finest produce. Another characteristically Turkish creation includes slivers of marinated Mediterranean sea bass topped with a coronet of buttery avocado and fragrant mango. Both

fruits are grown in the country, and the chili flakes which add a perfect touch of heat are domestic as well. The garnish of succulent purslane, a peppery green herb that grows wild just twenty minutes from the city, is freshly gathered by a member of the kitchen team. “This dish may look like California,” laughs Saz, “but it’s all from right here. “TOI is different from other restaurants in Istanbul. I know Turkish food, I know international food, and I know that people are looking for something unusual. I personally cook here every day, and they know they can trust me.”


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Mackerel-and-sardine-stuffed raviolo in chanterelle sauce 鲭鱼与沙丁鱼意大利饺伴鸡油菇酱汁

另一道经典土耳其特色菜是将酪梨与 香气逼人的芒果摆成皇冠状,放在经腌制 的地中海鲈鱼薄片上。这两种水果都是本 土产品,洒得恰如其分的辣椒片当然也不 例外。装饰其上的是由厨师团队新鲜现采 的多汁马齿苋,它是带有胡椒味的绿色植 物,生长在离城中心不到 20 分钟路程的野 地。Ismet 笑着说 : 「这道菜看起来像是来 自加州,但用的绝对都是本地食材。」 Ismet 认为 : 「『TOI』不同于伊斯坦堡 的其他餐厅。我了解土耳其菜,也了解国 际菜系,我知道人们想要与众不同的美食。 我每天亲自拿起锅铲为客人烹调美食,他 们知道我绝对能满足他们心中的渴望。」

Chef Owner Ismet Saz

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烤出经典

rich tradition At a neighborhood bakery in İzmir, writer Mamie Chen and photographer David Hartung discover the bliss of freshly baked boyoz.

SEPHARDIC JEWS expelled from Spain in 15 至 17 世纪间,被西班牙驱逐的塞 the fifteenth through seventeenth centu法迪犹太人在奥斯曼帝国找到温暖的 ries found welcome refuge in the Ottoman 庇护所,晚期多定居于土耳其发展迅 Empire and especially, in later times, in 速又便利的港都城市 – 伊兹密尔。经 Turkey’s progressive and cosmopolitan port 过多年来塞法迪与土耳其伊兹密尔文 city of İzmir. The continuing open-minded 化之间持续密切的融合与交流,最终 give and take between Sephardic and Turk为这座城市孕育出一种令人愉悦的文 ish İzmirli cultures through the years has 明象征 – boyoz。虽然 boyoz 在街头随 endowed the city with boyoz, one of the 处可见,但这浑圆的面包覆盖着香脆 more delightful of its civic icons. Despite 酥皮,内馅饱满丰富,口感松软,一 its street-food status, this flaky round 吃就让人欲罢不能的魅力,与法国引 pastry with a sumptuously rich 以为傲的可颂不相上下。 BY and tender interior easily rivals 品尝 boyoz 的最佳地点 MAMIE CHEN France’s vaunted croissant for 是位于走在时代尖端、高档 gratifying indulgence. 上流的伊兹密尔社区,过去 PHOTOGRAPHY BY The epicenter of boyoz con曾是犹太教与基督教交会地 DAVID HARTUNG noisseurship is Alsancak, the 的 Alsancak,她在奥斯曼时 now trendy and upscale İzmir 代的旧名为 La Punta。现在 neighborhood that was historically a Jewish 只要是早餐与午餐时间,不论何种宗 and Christian quarter known as La Punta 教信仰,各行各业的顾客都会在「Alduring the Ottoman era. Today, customers sancak Dostlar Fırını」面包店门外涌现, of every religious persuasion and from all 排成蜿蜒的人龙,即使非尖峰时刻人 walks of life merge in a queue that regularly 潮也从不间断。 snakes out the door of the Alsancak Dostlar 当地人的传统早餐是原味 boyoz Fırını bakery during the breakfast and lunch 搭配土耳其茶,以及一颗撒上盐与胡 rushes and never entirely disappears in the 椒的 huevo haminado,这种别具犹太 lulls between. 风格的蛋在 140°C 烤箱里经过八小时 For breakfast, the original plain boyoz is 慢火烘煮,染上一层淡淡铜棕色。只 traditionally enjoyed with a glass of Turk要来份包着可口菠菜和乳酪或扎实马 ish tea and a salt-and-pepper-sprinkled 铃薯与胡萝卜的 boyoz,饥肠辘辘的午 huevo haminado, a slow-baked egg tinged 餐时间亦可立即获得满足。若再在这 a coppery brown by its eight-hour stint in a 家面包店 16 种口味的 boyoz 中任挑一 140°C oven. Lunchtime pangs are quickly 种当点心,配上一杯用碎瓜子制成的

师傅双手并用,一次揉捏擀出两张 饼,不过几分钟时间,一整盘形状 完美的圆饼便大功告成。然后他在 几百克重的面团上涂一层薄薄的芝 麻酱与油,再将托盘滑进架上让面 团静置,同时继续制作下一批。 他轻轻用掌根挤压面团,将面 团摊平成圆饼状,再在每个圆饼上 平铺另一层芝麻酱和油,放到旁边 叠成一小堆,准备进一步静置。 师傅灵巧地将面团擀平推开成 一张薄饼,涂上又一层薄薄的芝麻 酱和油。 为将面团完全延展成像纸一样 薄,他将面团以大车轮的方式在周 边与头顶上挥舞,再往桌上奋力一 甩。最后一次挥洒芝麻酱与油之后, 他将面团卷起数次,加进内馅后再 完全卷起。 再用手将卷成条的面团捏断成 小块,然后摊平成小圆盘状,准备 放入烤箱。

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In mere minutes, a baker ambidextrously kneads and rolls out, two at a time, a tray of perfectly formed spheres. After rubbing a thin layer of tahini and oil across the tops of the hundred-gram balls, he slides the tray onto a sheetpan rack to let the dough rest while he moves on to the next batch. Gently pressing the balls with the heel of his palms, he flattens and shapes them into disks, smoothing another layer of tahini and oil across each, and setting them aside in short stacks for further resting. The baker nimbly rolls out the dough into a thin sheet and spreads yet another light layer of tahini and oil over the top. To fully stretch it paper thin, he swings the dough in a wide circle around and over his head and then emphatically slaps it to the counter. After one final sweep of tahini and oil, he folds the dough on itself a couple of times, adds filling to the flavored boyoz, and rolls it all up. Chunks of rolled dough are pinched off and flattened into small disks, ready for baking.

satiated by, for example, a boyoz filled with savory spinach and cheese or earthy potatoes and carrots. And a snack of any of the bakery’s sixteen flavored boyoz paired with a refreshing glass of sübye, a popular drink made with ground melon seeds, is enough

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to pique and then appease a mid-afternoon appetite. Since taking over the family business, second-generation owner Berrin Akar Rasuli has continued in the original location of her father’s thirty-five-year-old bakery. She

follows the same recipe and classic techniques that he learned directly from izmir’s esteemed master baker Avram Usta. Aside from the initial incorporation and kneading steps that are carried out in a large dough mixer in use since the bakery’s early days,


the boyoz are entirely handmade by a skilled team of veteran bakers. The complete process requires six to seven hours, during which a complex culinary dance takes place in the working kitchen behind Alsancak Dostlar Fırını. The bakers perform their parts as if choreographed, rolling, flattening, and extending the dough with a nearly synchronized grace. In the most visually mesmerizing of moves, a master baker in the back room repeatedly lifts the dough, sweeps it around and overhead, and forcefully whips it down on the counter, incrementally stretching it out with each turn until paper thin. The dough itself is simple: water, flour, and salt. What sets boyoz apart from other pastries is the mixture of tahini and oil that is applied liberally and spread across the dough at nearly every stage in the process. “All boyoz, whether plain or flavored with filling, contain tahini,” says Akar Rasuli. “It’s the most important ingredient. The sesame paste adds savory flavor. It also makes the dough tender and delicious to bite into.” Equally important is resting the dough for sixty to ninety minutes between each baking step for a total of several hours, which allows the gluten to relax into pliable suppleness. During baking, steam released from the oil and tahini separates the dough, lifting it into countless light layers. Although the heart of her business has always centered on the time-honored methods, Akar Rasuli has been quick to adopt innovations over her nine years in charge of Alsancak Dostlar Fırını. She has updated the bakery, renovated the shop, released creative new flavors, and introduced online sales. When asked, however, which variety a newcomer should start with, she doesn’t hesitate: “The original plain boyoz with a baked egg. And try the sübye too. Enjoying them together is an old tradition on the street.”

Fifteen to twenty minutes in the oven’s high heat is all it takes to bake beautifully golden boyoz, tender and flaky with rich, moist interiors.

清凉热门饮品 sübye,便足以激起午后时 分的食欲,令五脏庙获得满足 。 这 家 面 包 店 第 二 代 掌 门 人 Berrin Akar Rasuli 自接手以来,仍坚守在她父 亲 35 年前开业的原址,并依循她父亲直 接从伊兹密尔德高望重的烘焙师傅 Avram Usta 所传授的食谱与经典技艺。面包店 初期便使用一部大面团搅拌机进行一开 始的混合原料与揉面团步骤。除此之外, boyoz 完全由一群技艺高超的资深师傅手 工制作。 Boyoz 的完整制作过程需六到七小时, 期 间「Alsancak Dostlar Fırını」 后 方 的 工 作厨房上演着翩翩起舞的戏码。只见烘焙 师傅各司其职,像经过编舞一般表演着, 以近乎同步的优雅姿态擀面、压面、将面 团延展开来。其中最令人心醉神迷的动作, 是厨房后方的总师傅反覆将面团高举,横 扫过周边与头顶,再大力甩回桌上,一次 又一次,慢慢地将面团扩展到跟纸一样薄。 面团的组成很简单,只有水、面粉和

最后只需在高温烤箱烤 15 到 20 分钟,即可烘焙出金黄外皮、口 感柔软又酥脆、内馅丰富湿润的 美丽 boyoz。

盐。真正让 boyoz 有别于其他糕饼的,在 于几乎每一个制作步骤都要将芝麻酱和油 毫不手软地涂抹在面团里。Berrin 说 : 「不 论原味或有内馅的 boyoz 都含有芝麻酱, 这是最重要的食材。芝麻酱增添了令人垂 涎的风味,也让面团更柔软,嚼起来更美 味。」 同样重要的是还要在每个步骤之间将 面团静置 60 到 90 分钟,并持续数小时, 这工序可让面筋松弛,变得柔软弹滑。烘 焙过程中,从油与芝麻酱溢散的蒸气会将 面团撑开成无数薄层。 虽然面包店向来以历史悠久的制作手 法为主,Berrin 在接管「Alsancak Dostlar Fırını」的九年内仍持续创新,带领家族 事业更上一层楼。她不仅整修店面,推出 新口味,还经营起网路贩售。然而当问她 会推荐新顾客从哪种口味开始,她毫不犹 豫地说 : 「原味 boyoz 配一颗烘蛋,也要 尝尝 sübye。这几样加在一起就是最传统 的街头小吃。」 a land between

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琳琅满目

profusion for sale In ancient domed buildings and neighborhood locales, Turkey’s markets brim with the sights and scents of the season’s freshest local foods.

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I S TA N B U L Reminiscent of the palette, patterning, and nostalgic feel of a Wes Anderson film set, the No. 4 Bosphorus shop in Istanbul’s Spice Bazaar offers a profusion of aromatic spices, fragrant teas, and sumptuous confections. 伊 斯 坦 堡 香 料 市 场 的「No.4

Bosphorus」商店供应种类丰富、 香气四溢的香料、茶叶和蜜饯, 让人联想起美国知名电影导演

Wes Anderson 的调色、图案和怀 旧感觉。


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When steeped in hot water, these tightly wrapped balls of jasmine tea leaves and subtly scented flowers unfurl delicately into an elegant bouquet. 这些压缩的茉莉花茶叶球浸泡在热水中时, 会慢慢开花,散发烂漫的花香。


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At a Friday market just outside Antalya, two vendors enjoy a moment of respite as shoppers, always in search of the best prices and selection, browse their way among mounds of locally grown seasonal produce, bins of dried fruits and nuts, bags of spices, and buckets of olives and pickled vegetables. 这里是安塔利亚外围的周五市集。两名 摊商享受着片刻的喘息时间,摇身一变 成了消费者,不停穿梭在本土时令产品里 一箱箱的干燥水果及坚果、一袋袋的香料 与一桶桶的橄榄及泡菜中,找寻最划算的 价格与最棒的商品。


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↑ A fire-roasted döner kebab , slices of lamb bound with minced meat, sizzles on a spit. The grill master deftly shaves thin slices and serves them, along with grilled chilies and tomatoes, atop Turkish flat bread called pide. ↓ When a woman confesses that her husband doesn’t like the whiting sold at a stall in Kemeraltı Market, the fishmonger laughs, “You have to leave that guy, he just doesn’t know good food.”

烤肉大师在烤得嘶嘶作响的旋轉 烤羊肉上切下薄片,与烤辣椒和番 茄一起放在称为 pide 的土耳其扁 面包上。

一位女士表示她的丈夫不喜欢在

Kemeraltı 市场的一个鱼摊购买的 鳕 鱼。 鱼 贩 打 趣 说 : 「 离 开 他 吧, 他根本不懂吃的。 」


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Şambali cakes of  semolina, sugar, and milk  are baked in a woodfired oven in distinctive round copper trays. Best enjoyed with a dollop of Turkish clotted cream known as  kaymak , they’re sold in a tiny twoand-a-half-square-meter shop in Kemeraltı Market that has followed the same recipe since it opened in 1939. 以粗粒面粉、糖和牛奶制成的 Şambali 蛋糕要在独特的圆形铜托盘中的燃木烤箱中 于 Kemeraltı 市场的一个仅 2.5 烤制。这甜点与土耳其凝块奶油 kaymak 是最佳配搭, 平方米的商店有售。蛋糕的配方自 1939 年开业以来一直沿用至今。


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In Turkey, pomegranates are symbolic of opulence and wealth. A New Year’s Eve tradition involves smashing one open on the front doorstep at the stroke of midnight to invoke abundance and prosperity in the year ahead. These winter jewels are eaten as fresh fruit, used as garnishes on salads and puddings, and made into sherbets, sauces, and molasses. 在土耳其,石榴象征着富裕和财富。 根据当地传统,要在除夕的午夜时 分在前门砸碎一个石榴,在未来一 年 便 能 收 获 丰 富 的 财 产 和 成 功。 这些冬季宝石既能作为新鲜水果食 用,也可以是沙拉和布丁的装饰, 更可用来制作冰糕、酱料和糖蜜。


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from europe to asia Senior writer Mamie Chen and photographer David Hartung uncover the rich layers of Turkey’s transcontinental culture and history.

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WHEN U.S. PRESIDENT BARACK OBAMA capped off his 2009 overseas trip with a two-day stay in Turkey – his first state visit to a Muslim-majority country – the international gesture of friendship was met with enthusiastic applause from parliament in Ankara and acclamation from crowds in Istanbul. One of the most charming displays of popular sentiment and traditional Turkish cordiality that were extended to the head of state was a phyllo-and-pistachio presidential portrait entitled Baracklava. The tribute took two full days’ work by a team of five pastry chefs from Istanbul’s famed fifth-generation bakery, Karaköy Güllüoğlu. The artisanal craftsmanship and the generosity of time and spirit that went into producing the edible likeness are typical of a culture that practices hospitality for the simple sake of hospitality and welcomes visitors of every religion, nationality, and background as “God’s guests.” When we step into Karaköy Güllüoğlu’s blissful aromas on our first morning in Istanbul, no presidential entourage is required for a genuinely cheerful greeting that belies the early hour. Although the exact origins of baklava are murky, credible and competing claims assert roots in ancient Assyrian, Persian, nomadic Turkish, Hellenistic, Roman, and Byzantine recipes. It is generally accepted, however, that today’s “classic” version – glistening, golden-sweet nuggets resting on a base of the finest pistachios from Gaziantep and topped with handrolled sheets of tissue-thin phyllo – was perfected under the Ottoman Empire in the kitchens of Topkapı Palace. Baklava, indeed, serves as an emblem of the way that the hundreds of imperial-palace cooks, who specialized across a wide range of pastries, jams, soups, pilafs, and kebabs, helped to enrich the heritage of Turkish cuisine. They perfected national dishes by incorporating ingredients and adapting techniques that were found regionally across the empire or were brought by new immigrants and foreign traders. Crossing the Galata Bridge, we tour Istanbul’s historic Old City, beginning with Topkapı Palace and the ten domed buildings that make up its legendary kitchens. The imperial cuisine that was developed here, readily embracing and seamlessly integrating culinary elements from manifold origins, typifies the Ottoman Empire’s spirit of religious and cultural tolerance that was practiced by the Seljuk Empire before it and has been maintained by the modern-day Republic of Turkey ever since.

2009 年,美国前总统奥巴马的海外访问行程 以两天的土耳其访问作为结尾,这也是他首次 来到穆斯林国家的国事访问,安卡拉国会和 伊斯坦堡的民众也以热烈掌声与高昂的欢呼 声欢迎美国的友谊之行。其中,土耳其赠与 一国之君一份最迷人的传统好客之礼,这就 是由叶子酥皮与开心果制成的土耳其传统甜 点巴克拉瓦 (baklava) 做成的总统肖像,称为 。 「Baracklava」 这项礼物耗时整整两天,由伊斯坦堡有 名的第五代烘培坊 Karaköy Güllüoğlu 派出的 五名糕点师傅负责。这座可食用的肖像背后是 师傅精巧的手艺,还有大量投注的时间与精 力,更展现土耳其人的盛情好客,即将来自各 地、不同信仰、不同背景的人们都看作是「神 的客人」的传统热情文化。在伊斯坦堡的第一 个 早 上, 一 脚 踏 进 Karaköy Güllüoğlu, 一 股 怡人的糕饼香便扑鼻而来,不需要总统身旁的 随行人员,欢迎客人的那份真诚就这样萦绕着 整个早晨。 虽然巴克拉瓦的真正来源已不可考,但 倒是有几种较可信的说法,这道甜点可能来自 古亚述人、波斯人、游牧土耳其民族、希腊人、 罗马人还有拜占庭人的食谱。各方人士一致认 同当代的经典版本,是改良自奥斯曼帝国的托 普卡匹皇宫厨房精制蜜饼,即金黄香甜、闪闪 发光的蜜饼贴合着加济安泰普最高品质的开 心果仁,最上层再铺上一层层纤薄如纸的手工 酥皮。宫内数百名厨师精通各式糕点、果酱、 汤品、抓饭还有烤肉。这种果仁蜜饼也是这些 厨师丰富土耳其美食文化遗产的象征。他们融 合来自帝国各地或是移民与外国商人带来的 食材与技术,使这道国家级传统佳肴的美味更 上一层楼。 越过加拉塔大桥,我们开始游览伊斯坦 堡历史悠久的旧城,首先来到托普卡匹皇宫, 其中便包含了十座圆顶建筑组成的传奇皇家厨 房。这里的皇家料理,每一道都能看出乐于接 纳异国文化,而且融合得天衣无缝的传统,恰 恰展现了从赛尔柱帝国到奥斯曼帝国一直到现 代土耳其,对于外国文化与信仰的宽容大度。

Turkey’s flag flies above the entrance to Istanbul’s Spice Bazaar. 土耳其国旗在伊斯坦堡的香料市场入口飘扬。

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İzmir Clock Tower 伊兹密尔钟塔


Laodicea on the Lycus in Denizli Province 代尼兹利省莱克斯河上的老底嘉城

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The snow-white travertine terraces of Pamukkale 棉花堡中雪白的石灰华平台

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Clockwise from top left: The Library of Celsus at Ephesus in Ä°zmir Province, the theater at Ephesus, a tomb in the necropolis of Hierapolis in Denizli Province, a sarcophagus at the same site

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由左上方顺时针依序是:伊兹密尔省以弗所城内的赛尔修斯图书馆、以弗所的剧场、 代尼兹利省希拉波利斯城内墓园的其中一座陵墓、同上一地点的一座石棺

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ON OPPOSITE SIDES of Sultanahmet Park, two venerable landmarks embody the complexity of Turkey’s identity: layers of history laid down by Hittites, Hellenistic Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Seljuks, and Ottomans; territorial and philosophical connections bridging East and West; contrasts between the nation’s modern secular ideals and its rich Muslim traditions. Red-walled Hagia Sophia to the northeast was built in the year 360 as a Christian church. Rebuilt in 537, it stood for seven hundred years as the largest cathedral in the world. In 1453, it was converted into an imperial mosque when Mehmed II captured Constantinople and renamed the city Istanbul under the Ottoman Empire. Today, it is a secular museum where an original mosaic of the Virgin Mary is flanked by calligraphic roundels bearing the names Allah and Muhammed. Sultan Ahmed Mosque across the park is more commonly known as the Blue Mosque for the color of the tiles that line its interior. Completed in 1616, it was built by Sultan Ahmed I to rival the Hagia Sophia mosque in splendor, and today it remains an active place of worship that is closed to visitors during midday prayers. The intermingling of past and present, secular and religious is also evident beyond the confines of Istanbul. We fly south to the Mediterranean coast city of Antalya, where the triple arches of Hadrian’s Gate, built in 130 CE, stand as the last remaining portal through the Roman fortifications around the ancient city and harbor. Crossing a busy modern thoroughfare to enter the old town of Kaleiçi, we serendipitously meet Mustafa Temimhan, a man on a mission to educate locals and tourists on the pleasures of today’s acclaimed Turkish wines.

在苏丹艾哈迈德公园的另一头有两座令人肃然起敬的地标,是土耳 其复杂身分的体现。一层层由西台人、希腊人、罗马人、拜占庭人、 赛尔柱人与奥斯曼人所缔造的历史脉络,是东西方领土与思想的交 界处,更是现代无宗教理想与丰富穆斯林传统的冲突激荡。 红墙壁的圣索菲亚大教堂位于东北方,在公元 360 年建造,是 一座基督教教堂。经过公元 537 年的重建,七百年来一直维持全球 最大教堂的地位。1453 年,当穆罕默德二世占领君士坦丁堡,将之 重新命名为奥斯曼帝国的伊斯坦堡时,圣索菲亚大教堂也被转作皇 家清真寺之用。时至今日,它已经是一座非宗教的博物馆,其内有 圣母玛利亚的原始马赛克图案,两侧伴有以书法写着阿拉与穆罕默 德之名的小圆窗。 苏丹艾哈迈德清真寺在公园的另一边,由于室内布满蓝色磁砖 构成的线条,因此常被称作「蓝色清真寺」 。这座清真寺在 1616 年 由苏丹艾哈迈德一世建成,原是用与圣索菲亚大教堂一较高下,现 今仍是活跃的宗教建筑,中午祷告时间不开放参观。 历史与现代、非宗教与虔诚信仰的融合,不只在伊斯坦堡出现。 我们往南飞到地中海沿岸城市安塔利亚,一窥公元 130 年建造、具 有三道拱门的哈德良门,这也是这座古老港口城市最后保留的罗马 要塞之门。穿过繁荣的现代通道,走进古色古香的卡利西城,我们 意外碰到 Mustafa Temimhan,一位喜好向当地人与游客介绍土耳 其酒之美的男人。

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Guests bask among submerged ruins in the Antique Pool at the ancient Roman spa city of Hierapolis. 淹没于水下的古罗马温泉之 都希拉波利斯城废墟中的古 代泳池。游客在这晒太阳。

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Clockwise from the top right: Topkapı Palace, calligraphic roundels in the Hagia Sophia, an interior passageway in the Hagia Sophia, the Deesis mosaic in the Hagia Sophia 由右上方顺时针依序是:托普卡匹皇宫、圣索菲亚大教堂 内的书法小圆窗、圣索菲亚大教堂的内部通道、圣索菲亚 大教堂内的祈祷马赛克图案

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Süleymaniye Mosque stands on the Third Hill of Istanbul overlooking the Golden Horn. 游客可从位于伊斯坦堡第三山丘上 的苏莱曼尼耶清真寺眺望金角湾。

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A Medusa column base in the Basilica Cistern in Istanbul 伊斯坦堡地下水宫殿的美杜莎石柱

AFTER A THREE-HOUR DRIVE to the northwest, we stop in Denizli to stroll the wellpreserved colonnaded street of the ancient city of Laodicea. It was founded in the third century BCE as a Hellenistic town and grew into an important commercial hub in Roman times. An early center of Christianity, it is best known as home to one of the “seven churches which are in Asia” that are named in the New Testament book of Revelation. The brilliant white limestone terraces of the nearby natural wonder of Pamukkale, which means “cotton palace,” were deposited by hot springs over the ages. Adjacent are the ruins of the ancient Greco-Roman spa city of Hierapolis. We cross west to explore the grand Greco-Roman ruins of Ephesus, first built in the tenth century BCE and famed for its Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The city was significant to the growth of early Christianity, and its church was another of the seven mentioned in Revelation.

经过三个小时向西北方的车程,我们到了代尼 兹利,漫步在保存良好的古代老底嘉城廊柱街 道。这些街道在西元前三世纪建造,最初是一 座希腊小镇,后来演变成罗马时代重要的商业 枢纽。身为早期的基督教中心,这里也因为是 《新约圣经》中提到的「亚洲七教堂」其中之 一的所在地而广为人知。精美绝伦的白色石灰 岩平台,是大自然的鬼斧神工,称作帕慕卡雷, 意思是「棉花堡」 ,其实是温泉经过年复一年 的石灰沉积形成。邻近此地是古希腊罗马温泉 之都希拉波利斯的废墟。 我们往西走,到古希腊罗马大城以弗所 的废墟一游,这个城在西元前十世纪兴建, 拥有举世闻名的阿尔忒弥斯神庙,是世界古 代七大奇迹之一。此城对于基督教的早期发 展贡献良多,城内也有一座《启示录》中提 到的七教堂。

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Hadrian’s Gate in Antalya 安塔利亚的哈德良门


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OUR TURKISH TOUR ENDS on the Aegean Sea at İ zmir, Istanbul’s progressive and laid-back sister. Residents here generally have a more liberal attitude toward alcohol, perhaps because of the city’s proximity to world-class wine country. And as a multicultural melting pot since Ottoman times, İzmir offers a distinctive regional cuisine that merges influences from its varied ethnic communities. This characteristically inclusive outlook, which defines Turkey’s past and present, is reflected in a poem attributed to Mevlana Celaleddin-i Rumi, a famous thirteenth-century Anatolian mystic and Muslim saint:

Come, come again, whoever you are, come! Heathen, fire worshipper, or idolatrous, come! Come, even if you broke your penitence a hundred times, Ours is a portal of home, come as you are. 

土耳其之旅的最后一站在爱琴海边的伊兹 密尔,也是一座与伊斯坦堡同样繁荣,但 步调较为缓慢的姊妹城市。这里的居民对 于美酒的接受度普遍较高,也许是因为靠 近世界知名酿酒国家的关系。由于伊兹密 尔从奥斯曼时代就是文化的大熔炉,这里 的饮食非常独特,融合了多民族背景。 Fishermen on the Galata Bridge cast their lines into the Golden Horn estuary in hopes of a decent catch during the annual fall migration of fish from the Black Sea, through the narrow channels of the Bosporus and Dardanelles, and on to the Aegean. 渔人在加拉塔大桥将钓线抛入金角湾中, 希望能让鱼群在每年的秋季迁移,从黑海 经过伊斯坦堡海峡与达达尼尔海峡这些窄 口到爱琴海时,迎来一笔渔获大丰收。

这种富有包容性的展望,定义了土耳 其的历史与现在,也在赫赫有名的十三世 纪安纳托利亚神秘主义穆斯林圣人鲁米的 一首诗中反映出来。

来,再来,无论你是谁,尽管来吧! 没有信仰的人,拜火拜偶像的人, 尽管来吧! 来,即便你曾打破上百次的忏悔诺言, 来以这里为家吧,如你所是的来吧。  a land between

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唤醒远古之根

ancient roots awaken

Mustafa Temimhan

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FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS before Greece and Rome took up the art, winemaking was practiced in the land of Anatolia. Steeped in layers of history and surrounded by three cerulean seas, the westward-thrusting peninsula, also called Asia Minor, today makes up the major part of Turkey. On Anatolia’s sunny southern coast lies Antalya, a major resort city first settled around 200 BC. Today it sprawls along the Mediterranean shore, but in former times it was largely contained within fortified walls. The surviving portions, built, destroyed, and rebuilt over the Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine, Seljuk, and Ottoman periods, now circumscribe Antalya’s historic center, Kaleiçi. Turks exploring their past and tourists out for authentic local color fill the district’s stone-paved streets. Down one of them and fitting right in is Karaf, a wine bistro opened five years ago in a charmingly restored century-old house. Karaf ’s proprietor is Mustafa Temimhan, a retired doctor who turned a hobby into a second career. As chairman of the tenyear-old Antalya Wine Club, with a current membership of three hundred, Temimhan had long been intrigued by wines, especially Turkish ones. His pursuit eventually flowered into a wine bar and shop with a mission: educating locals and tourists in the fundamentals and fine points of Turkish wines and offering them a select list of some of the country’s more interesting – and delightful – examples. Predominantly Muslim Turkey has historically discouraged the production of

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A stylish wine bistro in Antalya opens a window on the long heritage of Turkish winemaking and on its emerging modern direction.


Karaf’s antique cistern is now used to store wine. 「Karaf」的地下蓄水池现用作 存放美酒。


「Karaf」酒馆有一款 2014年卡莱斯的酒,来自盛产卡莱斯葡萄的中部安纳托利亚安卡拉 省,由Vinkara Wines酒厂出产。群山环绕的地形造就独特的微气候,使酿造的葡萄具有 黑莓与酸樱桃果香。法国勃根第木桶更带来香草与烟熏气息,酿出口感温和带单宁酸的 酒,余韵流长。

alcoholic beverages, from virtual prohibition during Ottoman rule to recently increased restrictions by the current government. But the Republic of Turkey, since its inception in 1923, has remained an officially secular nation, and Atatürk, its founder, in fact established the country’s first commercial winery. The ancient traditions have never been lost and continue to flourish and evolve. In the 1990s, as Turkey’s wineries began coming into the modern era, the trend was to plant “international” grapes and bring in outside experts to raise standards and meet prevailing global preferences. But in more recent years, attention has turned to the country’s unique, age-old grape varieties.

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Likya Vineyards & Winery in the Mediterranean province of Antalya produces a wide range of distinctive wines from both international and indigenous grapes. This 2015 Narince, an Anatolian native varietal, is a congenially floral and fruity white with lemony acidity and soft apricot notes. 安塔利亚地中海省的Likya Vineyards & Winery酒厂生产各式各样的独特酒品,国 际与国内品种应有尽有。这瓶2015年娜琳希使用安纳托利亚本土品种酿成,是具 有绝妙花果香的白葡萄酒,带有柠檬的酸性与杏果气息。

Increasing numbers of top-quality wines are being made from them, and these distinctively Turkish wines are standing out from the crowds on the global markets and garnering growing international praise. With more than twelve hundred grape varieties under cultivation, Turkey ranks fourth in the world in acreage and sixth in grape production, but the vast bulk goes for raisins and table grapes. Among the thirty-some varieties grown for wine, all the well-known international grapes are represented, as well as about twenty that are indigenous. Several of these natives are beginning to take their place in the winemaking sun. One

is Kalecik Karası (pronounced kah-le-djic car-ah-suh) a luscious lighter red known for notes of vanilla, roses, and red berries. Originating around Ankara, it is often considered Turkey’s answer to pinot noir. Narince (nahrin-djeh), creamy and peachy, is probably the best of the whites and the one capable of wines that age with graceful elegance. Two reds are Turkish powerhouses: Öküzgözü (oh-cooz-goe-zue) with pronounced acidity and fruity floral flavors, and rich, robust Boğazkere (bow-aahz-keh-reh) noted for muscular tannins. Turkey’s expansive territory, differing widely in climate and soil types, encompasses seven winegrowing regions, four of

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Among Karaf’s offerings is a 2014 Kalecik Karası from Vinkara Wines in Central Anatolia’s Ankara Province, homeland of this indigenous grape. Surrounding mountains create a microclimate that contributes to the wine’s fruity notes of blackberry and sour cherry. Aging in French burgundy barrels yields vanilla and smoky aromas, a long finsh, and soft tannins.


Vinkara’s 2014 Boğazkere brings out the best of the characteristic qualities of this dark red, thick-skinned native Turkish grape, whose name, because of its robust tannins, means “throat burner.” Dusty flavors of figs, cherries, wild fruits, and tobacco are matched with good body, solid structure, and a long finish.

这瓶Kayra’s 2013年奥古斯阁主所使用的葡萄,来自紧邻埃拉泽、位居中东部安 纳托利亚种植区,由阿伊登哲克Şükrü Baran葡萄园所产。这款酒不经多余的修 饰与过滤,如鹅绒般的深红色泽,带着浓厚的黑果与香料气息。

Vinkara’s 2014年宝佳斯科呈现出土耳其原生葡萄深红色厚皮的独有特性,此品种因为带有 强烈的单宁酸,所以土耳其语意思是「火烧喉咙」。独特的无花果、樱桃、野果还有烟草 香,衬托出其良好的酒体、稳定的结构和深长的余韵。

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The grapes for Kayra’s single-vineyard Vintage 2013 Öküzgözü were harvested from the vineyard of Şükrü Baran in Aydıncık, near Elazığ in the Mid-Eastern Anatolia wine region, where this variety originates. This velvety dark red, with a balance of rich black fruit and spice flavors, is unfined and unfiltered.

希腊和罗马是主流酒乡,但与这两个地区 相比,安纳托利亚地区的酿酒文化还要再 早几千年。这个半岛被三片蔚蓝的海洋包 围着,向西延伸。这个当年被称为「小亚 细亚」的地方,后来演变成现今土耳其的 大部分国土。安塔利亚位于安纳托利亚的 南方海岸,是一座公元前 200 年落成的渡 假胜地。昔日被强化城墙团团包围的城市, 现今沿着地中海岸延伸。经过不同时期不 断的摧毁与重建,残存的部分现在形成安 塔利亚历史中心卡利西区的外围区域。 到此地寻根的土耳其人,以及希望一 探土耳其真实面貌的游客,把卡利西区的 石 砌 街 道 挤 得 水 泄 不 通。 而 当 中 有 一 座 从百年老屋改建而成的酒馆「Karaf」融入 其 中 的 建 筑, 至 今 已 营 业 五 年。 其 老 板

Mustafa Temimhan,是一位将兴趣发展成 事业的退休医生。他同时也是已成立十年 「Antalya Wine Club」 的 会 长。Mustafa 一 直对酒非常着迷,尤其是土耳其酒。所以 他创立一家酒吧,旨在向前来的当地人与 游客介绍土耳其酒的制程原理与优点,更 提供国内新奇又美味的酒单给顾客选择。 大部分国民为穆斯林的土耳其,历史 上曾压制过酿酒业的发展,奥斯曼时期就 明文禁止,现今政府也设下更多限制。然 而,1923 年土耳其建国之时,其实就已正 式宣布自身为非宗教国家,当初的建国者 阿塔土克甚至创建了国内的第一家商业酒 厂。尽管命途多舛,古老传统却从未消失, 仍继续蓬勃发展与进化。 九十年代,土耳其酿酒业迈入现代化

时期,当时提倡种植「国际性」葡萄,并 引进国外专家来提高葡萄栽培与酿酒品质, 希望能迎合国际市场的需求。不过,近来 土耳其转而将注意力放在国内特有的古老 葡萄品种上。越来越多的顶级葡萄酒使用 这些品种作原料,也让独特的土耳其风味 逐渐风靡全球,备受国际好评。 土耳其栽培超过 1200 种以上的葡萄品 种,在全球葡萄种植面积上排名第四,在 葡萄产量上排名第六。但大部分用来做葡 萄干或是直接食用。三十几种专门作酿酒 之用的品种,除了涵盖所有国际知名的品 种外,更有约二十种是土耳其特有品种。 这些特有品种中有不少开始在酿酒业中占 据举足轻重的地位。其中「卡莱斯」是一 种香甜的淡红葡萄,具有香草、玫瑰与红 a land between

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Kayra’s Imperial 2013 Öküzgözü, a Iimited edtion of 4,751 bottles made from the vintage’s best grapes, is part of the Imperial line of premium small-batch wines. One of Mustafa Temimhan’s personal favorites, it is deep ruby red in color, with intensely flavorful and complex notes of plum, black cherry, and dark chocolate. 全球仅限量4751瓶的 Kayra’s Imperial 2013年奥古斯阁主,使用产地最顶级的葡萄,属于高品质限量制 造的皇家系列。这一瓶也是Mustafa最爱的酒,色泽有如红宝石,带有浓厚多层次的酸梅、黑樱桃与黑 巧克力香气。

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莓香气,发源自安卡拉地区,被认为是土 耳其的「黑皮诺」。另一方面,「娜琳希」 则拥有奶油般的质地与蜜桃香气,大概是 白葡萄里最出类拔萃的一种,极适合酿成 优雅的酒类。另外两种土耳其葡萄的中流 砥柱,分别是有着强烈酸性与花果香气的 「奥古斯阁主」,还有口感丰厚扎实、具有 大量单宁酸的「宝佳斯科」。 土耳其境内共有七个主要的葡萄种植 区,其中四个就占了全国百分之九十以上 的产量。马摩拉与爱琴海地区位于地中海 气候区,有炎热的夏天与温和的冬天。而 中东部安纳托利亚是奥古斯阁主与宝佳斯 科的故乡,中南部安纳托利亚则主要种植 娜琳希,这两区偏向大陆型气候,拥有炎 热的夏天与寒冷的冬天。高海拔地形带来 更大的日夜温差,贫脊的火山土壤种出的 葡萄,适合酿造高贵而纤细的葡萄酒。 在「Karaf」酒馆内,为了提高顾客的 品酒知识与鉴赏能力,Mustafa 正在楼上的 会议室进行品酒讲座与测试。他更采取薄 利多销策略,让大家口语相传,了解土耳 其酒传奇的过去、冒险犯难的当下,还有 前途光明的未来。

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which account for over 90 percent of production. The Mamara and Aegean regions have Mediterranean climates with hot summers and mild winters. Mid-Eastern Anatolia, home to Öküzgözü and Boğazkere, and Mid-Southern Anatolia, home to Narince, have generally continental climates with hot summers and cold winters. Their higher elevations bring greater day-to-night temerpature variations, and the lean volcanic soils found in some areas produce wines of noble structure and finesse. At Karaf, Temimhan conducts regular wine talks and tastings in the upstairs meeting room to raise the level of knowledge and discernment among his guests. He also holds down prices on the wines he offers to help spread the word about the storied past, adventurous present, and promising future of Turkish wines.


新兴酒厂的年轻酿酒师

A YOUNG WINERY’S YOUNG WINEMAKER

“MY ROLE is making the wine, from the vineyard down to the bottle – everything,” says enologist Hasan Deniz of Urla Winery near Turkey’s Aegean coastline. Ever since Deniz came to Urla five years ago straight out of training in Australia, the winery has been racking up awards. Urla’s short history traces to 2001, when founder Can Ortabaş uncovered vestiges of three-thousand-yearold Ionian viticulture on his palm tree farm and began expanding into vineyard planting and wine production. On the crest of Turkey’s wine renaissance, Urla has been producing sophisticated reds and whites that regularly receive global recognition. The international grapes that make up most of Urla’s production thrive in the amenable Aegean climate. “Turkey’s northern regions have more rain,” explains Deniz, “the southern have more humidity and heat, and the middle ones are usually dry and hot. Here, it’s a great Mediterranean climate, but we have frost in the winter and some snow, even though we’re very close to the sea. This gives us powerful, round wines with tannin intensity, lots of fresh fruits, a bit lower acidity, and good body.” One of the winery’s standout reds is Nero d’Avola & Urla Karası 2014, a Platinum winner at the 2016 Decanter World Wine Awards. The wine’s major distinction is its 10 percent of Urla Karası, an endangered indigenous Turkish variety that Urla has brought back to life. Hearing tell of the ancient grape from locals, the winery tracked it down to a nearby village and sent it off to a university lab for DNA identification. “It’s a lost variety and still a little wild,” says Deniz, “but to my palate, it’s a bit tannic with good acidity balance. It’s a light variety in terms of body, but it has fresh red fruits – it’s good.”

「从采收到装瓶的整个酿酒过程,我都一手包办。 」土耳其爱 琴海岸旁 Urla Winery 酒厂的酿酒师 Hasan Deniz 这么说。 五年前,Hasan 在澳洲受训结束加入 Urla 酒厂。从那 时起,各种美酒奖状如雪花般飞来。Urla 简短的过去要从

2001 年开始说起,创办人 Can Ortabaş 将已有三千年历史的 爱奥尼亚葡萄栽培法,重新应用在他原本的棕榈树农场,逐 步拓展成葡萄园并开始酿酒。 从土耳其葡萄酒复兴的高峰期,Urla 就开始生产各式 的高级红、白葡萄酒,也经常获得国际认可。爱琴海的独特 气候让 Urla 主要生产的国际葡萄品种蓬勃生长。Hasan 解释: 「土耳其北部地区降雨量较多,南部比较温暖潮湿,中部则 通常炎热干燥。这里拥有良好的地中海气候,但尽管已经非 常靠海,冬天还是会发生结霜与下雪的情况。不过这让我们 所产的酒保留强烈而圆润口感的同时,还有大量的单宁酸、 新鲜果香、低酸性,酒体优良的特质。 」 酒厂其中一瓶超群出众的红酒「Nero d’Avola & Urla

Karası 2014」,曾在 2016 Decanter 世界葡萄酒大赏荣获白金 奖。这酒能脱颖而出其实有赖于原料中含有百分之十的 Urla 卡莱斯品种葡萄,这是一个濒危土耳其特有品种,但 Urla 让 其起死回生。当时听到人们相传这种葡萄的踪迹,酒厂马上 循线来到邻近村庄,找到之后马上送到大学实验室做基因确 「这是被人们遗忘的品种,还带有一点野性, 认。Hasan 说 : 不过我尝出些许单宁酸,具有良好的酸性平衡。虽然酒体偏 轻,却有着鲜红的果实。总而言之,这种葡萄非常好。 」

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above and beyond

Turkey’s flag carrier airline keeps an unfailing focus on guest comforts and premium catering.

ONCE THE JET reaches cruising altitude, flight attendants in Turkish Airlines’ business cabin quietly swing into action. One by one, passengers are invited to step away from their seats for the brief turndown service. Each seat, with a generous pitch of seventy-eight inches and width of twentytwo, is made into an even more comfortable lie-flat bed with the addition of a memoryfoam lumbar support, cushy mattress pad, full-size pillow, and billowy duvet. But as appealing as the thought might be of blissfully drifting off for the duration of the long-haul flight, sleep will have to wait. Few are willing to pass up dinner by candlelight (simulated, of course, with LEDs). Served “high above the clouds” and catered by award-winning Turkish DO & CO, the meal is impeccably plated by an onboard

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flight chef. From an elegant multi-tiered trolley of latticed metalwork, guests select appetizers to start the multi-course feast, and fruit and dessert to finish it. Main courses are individually served directly from the galley. For the return flight from Istanbul Atatürk Airport, the business-class experience begins well before takeoff. Passengers are encouraged to arrive at the terminal at least two hours before scheduled departure time, and not for the mundane purpose of allowing adequate time for the screening queues. Business-class boarding passes grant exclusive access to a fast-track security check and passport control that clears directly into the Turkish Airlines CIP Lounge. The early-arrival recommendation is offered to give passengers time to explore the sprawling, two-story, sixty-thousand-square-foot

Turkish Lounge and indulge in an array of services and amenities that have earned it a reputation as one of the best airport lounges in the world. The list is as exceptional as it is extensive: sleeping rooms for guests with long layovers, showers, lie-flat massage chairs and roving masseuses, billiards table, golf simulator, video game consoles, slot car racing, children’s playroom, library, cinema, and multiple large-screen television areas. Food in the Lounge is also catered by Turkish DO & CO, who bring local flair to the international buffet spread with an olive bar and baklava table. They go above and beyond with their staffed hot food stations that offer specialties like Turkish flatbreads, including quesadilla-like stuffed gözleme and pizza-like open-face pide. Omelets are made to order in the morning, and meats are carved to order in the evening. Turkish Airlines prides itself on serving as a welcoming culinary and hospitality ambassador for the nation. On inbound flights, the meal service provides a splendid introduction to Turkish culture and cuisine. And at adventure’s end, the amenities of the Turkish Lounge and the comforts of in-flight service extend a warm invitation to return.

COURTESY OF TURKISH AIRLINES (2)

超凡服务 惊艳想像


PRESENED BY TURKISH AIRLINES

飞机渐渐上升到巡航高度,土耳其航空公 司商务舱的空服员们悄悄展开行动。乘客 一个接着一个被请到座位旁,等候空服员 的快速开床服务。每个床位均挑高 78 英 寸 ( 近两米 ),宽度则达到 22 英寸 ( 约 0.5 米 ), 配 备 的 记 忆 材 质 靠 枕、 松 软 床 垫、 标准枕头还有大羽绒被,让展开的床铺加 倍舒适。 虽然幸福地在长途飞机上沉沉入睡听 起来非常诱人,但想休息还得再等等,皆 因很少人愿意放弃接下来的烛光晚餐,而 烛光当然是以 LED 灯模拟。在云端之上 享 受 的 佳 肴 由 备 受 赞 誉 的 Turkish DO & CO 准备。每一道都经过机上主厨无可挑 剔的巧手摆盘。送餐的优雅手推车也是充 满层次的金属网格设计,乘客亲自挑选开 胃菜为接下来的一连串大餐展开序幕,最 后再选喜欢的水果与甜点做结尾。而主菜

则逐一从厨房直接送到乘客面前的餐桌 上。 从伊斯坦堡阿塔图尔克机场的出境航 班,商务等级的体验早在起飞之前就开始。 机场鼓励乘客提前预定的起飞时间至少两小 时到,但可不是单纯为了有充分的时间通过 安检程序。商务舱乘客享有快速安检与护照 检核的特权,可直接前往土耳其航空公司贵 宾休息室。 这么早到的原因,其实是希望让乘客 有 充 足 時 間 在 占 地 两 层 楼 高、 六 万 平 方 英尺 ( 约 5574 平方米 ) 的宽敞休息室里 尽 情 探 索。 这 享 誉 国 际 的 休 息 室 被 评 为 全 球 最 佳 候 机 室 之 一。 乘 客 在 此 可 享 用 一 系 列 的 顶 尖 设 施 与 服 务。 这 些 独 特 又 贴 心、 完 善 的 设 施 包 括 等 待 转 机 乘 客 用 的 休 憩 间、 淋 浴 间、 配 有 巡 回 按 摩 师 的 平 躺 式 按 摩 椅、 撞 球 台、 高 尔 夫 球 模 拟

游 戏、 电 玩 游 戏 机、 轨 道 赛 车、 儿 童 游 戏 室、 图 书 馆、 剧 院, 还 有 许 多 大 萤 幕 电视区等,应有尽有。 贵宾休息室的美食同样由 Turkish DO & CO 负责,国际自助餐搭配橄榄吧台与 巴拉克瓦甜点桌带出当地特色。熟食区的 每道菜式皆超乎乘客期待,提供的特色美 食如土耳其薄饼类,包含像墨西哥馅饼的 土耳其馅饼,还有像披萨的土耳其披萨。 早上供应的蛋饼新鲜现做,晚上则提供各 式肉品,现点现切。 土耳其航空公司展现无比热忱与亲切, 对于代表国家成为餐饮与接待大使感到非 常自豪。入境航班上的餐点,精彩地展示 出土耳其文化与独特美食。出境航班为每 趟冒险的终点,因此在贵宾休息室备有各 式各样的设施,机上安稳舒适的服务更传 达着欢迎再访的期待。


近在咫尺土耳其

istanbul nearby Jane Ram uncovers Hong Kong’s hidden Turkish delights.

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DAVID HARTUNG

ESSAY

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DAVID HARTUNG

HONG KONG HOLDS many gastronomic secrets, but few are as well-concealed as the local Turkish dining scene. In Turkey, from Istanbul to the smallest village, the food meets you more than halfway. Walk just a few steps, and your eyes and nose tempt you to give in to your taste buds. A smiling cook-vendor encourages you to try today’s specialty, from Turkish ice cream with its wonderful texture to a platter of fresh vegetables crowned by a layer of sauce and studded with pomegranate seeds that sparkle like rubies. In this respect, as in so many others, Hong Kong is different: it requires more than an impromptu stroll along the pavement to satisfy your craving with the best the city can offer by way of real Turkish food. Kebabs or pizza or the occasional falafel exhausts the all-too-predictable gamut proffered by the great majority of Hong Kong’s self-styled Turkish eateries. Sad to say, most of these establishments, far from authentic, are neither operated by Turks nor staffed with a Turkish chef. And, by the way, serious Turkish foodies will tell you that kebabs are really Persian, not Turkish. And we all know where pizza got its start.

When TK’s editor suggested a feature on Turkish dining in Hong Kong to complement its focus on food experienced in Turkey, it sounded like a relatively simple assignment. Turkey and China have been trading partners for millennia, with recipes, ingredients, and cultural traditions shared along the land and maritime Silk Roads since time began. To this day, the cooking of Xinjiang has much in common with Turkish food. Both traditions are halal, and both emphasize aromatic food that has its roots in a nomadic way of life. Spices like cumin and cinnamon are ubiquitous, even the least ambitious cook has scores of recipes for aubergine, breads are varied, and milk is preserved and used in many ingenious forms, such as yogurt and cheese. After a month of what felt like chipping away at a wall of nothing but kebabs and “Turkish pizza,” I was almost inclined to give up and focus on something else entirely. But patience was finally rewarded, and I discovered that Hong Kong actually does have a number of places where Turkish food is probably as good as it gets so far from Istanbul.

香港的隐世美食不胜枚举,但很少像道地 土耳其餐厅一样藏身得如此之隐密。若身 在土耳其,从大城伊斯坦堡到最名不见经 传的小村落,美食比比皆是,只消走几步 路,在视觉和嗅觉的冲击下,你不得不向 味蕾屈服。摊贩堆满灿烂笑容,游说你尝 尝今日特别料理,其中包括有着诱人纹理 的土耳其冰淇淋,或是一整盘淋了酱汁的 新鲜蔬菜,表面撒上如红宝石般闪闪发亮 的石榴籽。 相较之下,香港向来与众不同,在这 方面也不例外。若想一饱口腹之欲,品尝 香港最正宗、最美味的土耳其料理,漫无 目的地在街上乱走是绝对行不通的。香港 绝大多数自称道地的土耳其餐厅都不出所 料地供应烤肉、披萨或偶尔出现的法拉费 (Falafel)。 可惜名符其实的屈指可数,皆因这些 餐厅的老板既非土耳其人,甚至连一位土 耳其厨师都没有。另外,对土耳其料理真 正有研究的饕客会告诉你烤肉其实起源于

伊朗,不是土耳其。同时,大家应该都知 道披萨的发源地吧。 TK 编辑提议来做个香港的土耳其料 理大搜查特辑,进一步完善杂志关于土耳 其饮食体验的内容。这个提案乍听之下易 如反掌。土耳其与中国是数千年来的贸易 伙伴,商业网络建立伊始,食谱、食材、 文化传统等便经由陆上与海上丝路互通往 来。时至今日,新疆的料理仍与土耳其食 物十分相似,二者均有清真渊源,也因游 牧生活型态,饮食里多用香料,例如孜然 和肉桂可谓无所不在。此外,即使是最平 庸的厨师也会做多种茄子料理,面包种类 多不胜数,还有牛羊奶经过保存后制成酸 奶和奶酪等多种巧妙用法。 然而经过一个月的努力,除了烤肉和 「土耳其披萨」以外几乎一无所获,临近 放弃边缘的我几乎想转做其他主题了。所 幸耐心终究有了回报,我发现香港的确有 几处餐厅的料理跟在伊斯坦堡吃得到的不 相上下。

TURKISH INGREDIENTS IN HONG KONG

ESSAY

A surprisingly wide range of authentic Turkish ingredients, including fresh fruits like pomegranates and cherries in season, can be found in Hong Kong’s wet markets and other shops. A Turkish mini-supermarket-cum-cafe in Tsim Sha Tsui East operates an online ordering service and also stocks such staples as sausages, cheese, baklava, date vinegar, olives, hot chili paste, saffron, and tahini. Regency, an international spice wholesaler nearly seventyfive years old, imports to Hong Kong vast quantities of classic Turkish food products, including hazelnuts, poppy seeds, dried mulberries, figs, and apricots. Although most are primarily for transhipment to other destinations around the world, some have gained local popularity since they were introduced to the market on a trial basis. Turkish cooks make liberal use of herbs, many of which Regency imports. “We have plans to expand this range,” says general manager Sunit Dattani, “and to source Turkish botanicals like angelica.”

不论在香港的生鲜市场或商店,都 可见到多种道地土耳其食品,例如 当季石榴和樱桃等新鲜水果,琳琅 满目得令人吃惊。还有一家位于尖 东的土耳其迷你超市兼餐馆提供线 上订购服务,店内香肠、乳酪、果 仁蜜饼、椰枣醋、橄榄、辣酱、藏 红花以及中东芝麻酱等主要食材一 应俱全。 「Regency」是已有近七十五 年历史的国际香料批发商,进口榛 果、罂粟籽、桑椹干、无花果以及 杏子等大量经典土耳其食品至香 港。虽然多数仅在香港短暂停留, 最终仍转运至世界各地。其中某些 食品引进当地市场试卖后,享有极 高 人 气。 「Regency」 进 口 的 多 种 香草为土耳其裔厨师带来不少便 「我 利。总经理 Sunit Dattani 就说: 们计划拓展香草货源,引进欧白芷 这种土耳其植物。 」 a land between

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PA PA T H E O - M A N ’ S H E A LT H Y T U R K I S H F O O D

Hong Kong has several hundred Turkish residents, but, according to Teoman Alemder, most only cook traditional foods at home for family and friends. He knows what he’s talking about, having broadened his own circle of friends by successfully running a private kitchen in Shanghai for six years and now in Hong Kong for the past two. Despite his long-standing passion for cooking, Alemder pursued his professional training and career mainly in hospitality management, on the advice of teachers who told him his people skills were too good to hide in a kitchen. Both he and his Singapore-born wife were high-flying professionals when the first of their two sons was born and they agreed that one parent should stay home to raise the child. For various reasons, Alemder was the one. He enjoys hands-on parenting, although, as a househusband, he misses the buzz of an office environment. In search of more contact with people, he started taking a portable grill to some of Shanghai’s outdoor markets and serving freshly prepared meatballs and other Turkish delicacies. Soon his friends were clamoring for a full menu of

Turkish foods, and his home catering venture, Papa Theo-Man’s Healthy Turkish Food, was born. When the family relocated to Hong Kong, Alemder continued more or less where he left off in Shanghai, and since then he has built up a solid following of eager foodies who flock to his apartment in Tin Hau. He’s quite proud of his food and says he will never serve anything to guests that he wouldn’t serve to his own family. His cooking, bursting with color and flavor, is enhanced even more by the vivid traditional Turkish pottery bowls and platters that he sells as a sideline. A typical meal includes a deceptively simple lentil soup and succulent Turkishstyle twelve-hour-marinated roast chicken, along with classic meze, including shepherd’s salad with pomegranate sauce and fried halloumi cheese, hummus with sundried tomato, baba ghanoush, and beetroot salad studded with mixed capsicums and accompanied by homemade yogurt and bulgur. Despite the success of his venture, Alemder says he will only do this for another couple of years. When both boys are in fullday schooling, he plans to look for a new position in the corporate world.


COURTESY OF PAPA THEO-MAN’S HEALTHY TURKISH FOOD, (3)

ESSAY

香港有数百位土耳其裔居民,但 Teoman Alemder 说,他们多数只在家里为亲友烹 调传统食物。Teoman Alemder 先前在上海 开私人餐馆六年,如今又在香港开业了两 年,人脉极广,所言绝对不假。 Teoman 从很久以前便热衷烹调,但其 实他接受的专业训练主要在餐旅管理,原 因是他的老师们说他的社交技巧太出色, 不该隐身在厨房里。Teoman 和新加坡籍妻 子育有两子。大儿子出生时,两人的事业 均如日中天,但他们说好其中一人应在家 里带小孩。种种因素下,最后 Teoman 成 为了家庭主夫。他很享受亲自养育小孩的

过程,不过作为一名家庭主夫,他对办公 室的喧嚣热闹仍念念不忘。为拓展社交圈, Teoman 开始推着移动式烤肉架到上海某 些露天市场,贩卖现烤肉丸与其他土耳其 小吃。没多久,他周遭的朋友们纷纷请他 开发整套土耳其菜单。他的居家供膳服务 「Papa Theo-Man’s Healthy Turkish Food」于 焉展开。 全家移居香港后,Teoman 或多或少仍 接续着他在上海的事业,开业至今早已培 养出一批死忠饕客,不时涌进他在香港天 后的寓所。他深深以自己的料理为荣,更 表示宾客和家人共享一样的菜单。他的料

理不仅色彩缤纷、香气扑鼻,还用上了他 兼卖的传统土耳其陶碗与陶盘,斑斓、鲜艳, 更加提升料理的质感。 Teoman 的经典菜单包括一道看似简单 的扁豆汤、腌制十二小时之久鲜嫩多汁的 土耳其烤鸡,以及经典餐前开胃菜,其中 包括石榴酱与煎哈罗米奶酪制作而成的牧 羊人沙拉、鹰嘴豆泥与日晒番茄干、茄泥酱, 和撒了彩色甜椒佐自制优格与碎小麦的甜 菜沙拉。 尽管生意亨通,Teoman 表示他只会再 做几年,等两个儿子都整天上学了,他便 计划重回职场。 a land between

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of Turkish Airlines recommended Sultan’s Table as the city’s only upmarket, authentic Turkish restaurant. Online, it looked enticing, but I barely noticed the note about the Arbuthnot Street location being difficult to find. This turned out to be an understatement – Mission Impossible would have been more accurate – because, alas, Sultan’s Table is closed pending relocation.

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order this more than once a day,” says Dereli, the genial thirty-three-year-old perfectionist who heads the kitchen team. If I lived or worked nearby, I think, I’d do just the same. Like the succulent kebabs, all of the bread – which is one of the star attractions at Sultan’s Corner – is made fresh daily on the premises. Each feather-light wrap is baked only when an order is placed. The chefs also make a daily batch of flat round rolls about two centimeters thick and ten in diameter. The alluring aromas at baking time pull in customers as if by magnetism, but the bread comes only with food and is never sold separately. Regrettably, the space is too small to bake more than about a hundred rounds a day. Dereli and his team regard their work as a mission: “We’re here to introduce authentic Turkish cuisine from Anatolia and to show that it’s much more than kebabs and pizza. It’s a challenge, but once people taste our food they understand. Our meat comes from Australia, but we import all our other ingredients from Turkey to make it really authentic. The organic wheat flour comes from Central Turkey around Konya city – that’s what gives real Turkish flavor and character to the bread. Even our water comes from the mountains near Sırma. Turkey has wonderful produce, and it’s the basis of our cuisine. We have so many vegetables and fruits, along with wonderful seafood.” The original Sultan’s Table was the brainchild of Turkish businessman Ahmet Karabaş, who searched in vain for a Hong Kong restaurant where he could entertain his VIP clients. He soon realized that if he wanted an authentic and elegant venue, he’d have to start one himself. Regular customers at the restaurant included a wide cross-section of nationalities. A major part of the mix was Turkish residents, along with many workers from Hong Kong consulates who were in search of a halal kitchen. The restaurant hosted official Turkish delegations and visiting VIPs, birthday and wedding parties, and celebrations of every kind. At special events, belly dancing was part of the entertainment. Three years ago, Karabaş was fortunate enough to persuade Chef Dereli to work with him. A combination of vision, drive, and sheer talent sets Dereli apart from the average kitchen supremo. Born in Denizli,

COURTESY OF SULTAN’S TABLE (2)

S U LTA N ’ S TA B L E

The Hong Kong office

The phone number, however, still functioned, and I learned that the kitchen team remained intact and was operating their recently opened mini takeaway, Sultan’s Corner, alongside the Arbuthnot Street midlevels escalator. “Welcome any time after 2:00 p.m. for a chat,” came a friendly voice on the phone. “We’ll be here until 11:00.” This particular culinary secret is in plain view for anyone with well-tuned eyes and a good nose. Opposite the Marks & Spencer food shop in Shelley Street, it stands out as different from the usual run of kebab and Turkish pizza places that have proliferated in recent years. Yes, Sultan’s Corner serves the expected kebabs, freshly sliced from rotating spits of lamb, chicken, or beef. But the accompanying freshly baked bread deserves to be enshrined in the baker’s hall of fame – it’s up there with Hong Kong’s best. Master Chef İsa Dereli sets a dainty mug of Turkish tea in front of me and asks whether I like spinach. In response to an unseen signal, the chef behind the counter uncovers an impressive slab of prepared dough and cuts off a small chunk that he proceeds to mold for a few seconds. I watch fascinated at the precision with which, in fewer than a dozen strokes with a hefty wooden rolling pin, he forms a disk the size of a large dinner plate. “You like cheese?” comes the next question, and the dough is swiftly anointed and skillfully slid from the baker’s peel into the oven. In the time it takes to learn that this is no Turkish pizza but rather ıspanakli börek (spinach pie), the chef ’s creation is out of the oven, the underside carefully lifted to reveal the browned spots that indicate perfect doneness. Sliced fresh onions and tomatoes are deftly arranged on a layer of finely chopped parsley, spinach, soft cheese, egg, and a hint of fresh lemon. As I tackle this fragrant delight, I am only slightly intimidated by the five chefs – all wearing Turkish-style red head wraps with knotted cats’ ears – watching closely as I take my first bite. Like most people, I enjoy a well-made pizza, but this dish is about as far away as could be from any pizza I’ve ever eaten. As the Fabulous Five, as I’ve now mentally named them, gauge the delight on my face, they seem to heave a collective sigh of contentment before the conversation on Turkish cuisine resumes. “Many customers


ESSAY

当被问及香港既高档又正宗的土耳其餐 厅,土耳其航空香港办公室推荐「Sultan’s Table」,说仅此一家,绝无仅有。光浏览 其网站就令人垂涎三尺,但我却忽略了一 句提醒 :这间位于亚毕诺道的餐厅很难找。 没想到,很难找三字实属轻描淡写,准确 来 说 要 找 到 根 本 是 不 可 能 的 任 务, 因 为 「Sultan’s Table」即将迁址,早已暂停营业。 不过电话还打得通,随后我得知整个 料理团队仍在,正在经营近期新开的迷你 外带餐厅「Sultan’s Corner」,店址就设在亚 毕诺道半空中的电扶梯旁边。电话中的声 音很友善地表示 : 「下午两点后随时欢迎你 来。我们会在这里一直待到晚上十一点。」 对双眼锐利、嗅觉灵敏的人来说,这 家隐藏版餐厅其实显而易见。座落于些利 街玛莎百货对面,相较于近年来如雨后春 笋般冒出的一般烤肉与土耳其披萨店,它 可谓鹤立鸡群。没错,正是因为「Sultan’s Corner」的烤肉正如顾客心中真正期待的 那样,从旋转炙叉上新鲜切下羊肉、鸡肉 或牛肉。不仅如此,就连搭配的现烤面包 都绝对值得登上烘焙名人堂之列,毫无疑 问,香港第一。 主厨 İsa Dereli 把一杯泡有土耳其茶的 精致马克杯放在我面前,问我喜不喜欢菠 菜。在我回应前,他就主动在料理台后方 掀开一大坨已备妥的面团,切下一小块, 用手捏个几秒钟。我目不转睛盯着他,只 见他动作精确地用一根沉重庞大的木制擀 面棍擀个十来下,一个跟晚餐用大餐盘差 不多尺寸的圆饼就成形了。他又问我 : 「你

喜欢乳酪吗?」然后他很快地给圆饼抹上 油,熟练地撕下,再放进烤箱。 随后,我才知道原来这并不是土耳其 披萨,而是 ıspanakli börek(菠菜派),此 时厨师的杰作刚好出炉。他小心掀开派的 底部,露出一个个棕褐色圆点,证明烤得 恰到好处。先铺上一层碎欧芹、菠菜、软 乳酪、蛋与少许新鲜柠檬,再巧妙地铺上 切成长条的新鲜洋葱与番茄。

就在我准备大快朵颐这道芬芳佳肴之 际,这五位厨师的气场稍稍震慑了我,他 们全都穿着土耳其式带有编织猫耳的红头 巾。我一边咬下第一口,一边感受他们仔 细观察我的目光。我跟多数人一样喜欢可 口披萨,但这道料理与我吃过的披萨截然 不同。我在心中暗自称他们为「五大神人」。 当他们捕捉到我脸上满足的神情,似乎集 体欣慰地叹了一口气,才继续关于土耳其 料理的话题。作为统领厨房的完美主义者, 33 岁的 İsa 个性亲切。他说 : 「许多顾客 一天来买这个好几次。」我心想,要是我 住在附近或在附近工作,我也会。 「Sultan’s Corner」的面包就跟肥美烤 肉一样,每天当场现做,是店家的明星商 品之一。这里的饼皮轻如鸿毛,每一份都 是接到订单后才烘烤。厨师们也会每天制 作一批直径十公分、厚约两公分的圆扁型 面包,烘烤时香气四溢,如同磁铁般吸引 着顾客络绎不绝。可惜面包从不单独贩卖, 只能搭配其他食物。此外,这里空间太小, 一天至多只能烤一百个。 İsa 与其他厨师们形容自己的工作是一 项任务 : 「我们在这里,是为了介绍来自 安纳托利亚真正的土耳其料理,让大家知 道不是只有烤肉和披萨。这项任务很艰巨, 但只要大家来吃过就会明白了。我们使用 的肉来自澳洲,但其他所有食材都从土耳 其进口,所以绝对道地。有机小麦面粉来 自土耳其中部的科尼亚附近,所以面包具 有真正的土耳其风味和特色,就连我们用 的水都取自 Sırma 附近的山泉。土耳其的 a land between

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he started at the bottom of the professional ladder as a thirteen-year-old dishwasher. Hard work and native aptitude could not be held back, and by the age of eighteen, he qualified as a master chef. Dereli continued to polish his skills in some of Turkey’s best hotel kitchens and then spread his wings for a seven-year stint in Moscow. Positions in Marseilles and Casablanca followed before he was hired in Hong Kong. Preparation is the hardest part of making a Turkish meal, says Dereli, who finds the actual cooking stage relatively easy. Like any proud parent, he showed off pictures of signature dishes from Sultan’s Table, beaming as he summed up his mantra: “First you eat with your eyes, then your nose, and finally your mouth. Presentation is very important. Look at this Turkish ravioli – yogurt and shrimp encased in handmade dough!” Turkish delight and baklava may be familiar indulgences, but they’re mere constellations in the galaxy of Turkish sweets and puddings. Chef Dereli prides himself on a favorite that is not technically Turkish, a showy semolina cake with ice cream filling that he’s named Türk Dondurmali İrmik. “Combine semolina, milk, sugar, vanilla, and walnuts,” he explains, “and spread it over the ice cream center. Bake it so the outside is done but the center stays frozen.” One of the chef ’s more challenging

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dishes is a very special minced lamb kofta, or meatball. Dereli fondly describes how bulgur dough is combined with walnuts and chopped onion to form a small sphere. “Open the mouth of the ball,” he says, “and push in the marinated lamb. Close it and create an egg shape that you then deep-fry. This was one of our most popular items – we used to sell over four hundred pieces a week.”

With the new Sultan’s Table due to open in Old Bailey Street on May 1, the chefs are eager to show what they can do, and the menu , says Dereli, is ready to roll. While the original restaurant opened only for dinner, the new one will offer lunch service as well. “We’ve been looking at our most popular items in planning new menus. The aim is to keep the top five dishes in each category of hot and cold meze, and our oven-baked specialties will probably be permanently available. We’ll rotate our other dishes so even regular customers will always find something new.” Sultan’s Corner is envisaged as the first of a chain of twenty-five or more small outlets spread across Hong Kong and committed to showing the public that even the simplest Turkish food can be exciting. In late December, Sultan’s Corner participated in a major food fair in Wan Chai. The chefs’ eyes sparkle as they talk about the reaction of the more than fifteen thousand people who tasted their food. They proudly show a video clip of a near mob scene, with crowds applauding the chefs’ theatrical flourishes with onions and sauce and clamoring for selfies with the instant celebrities. “We’re here to honor the cooking of Anatolia,” says Dereli. “Everything we do comes from the heart, and that’s the secret of our popularity.”


COURTESY OF SULTAN’S TABLE (4)

ESSAY

农产量丰质佳,是我们料理的基石,不仅 有肥美的海鲜,还有各式各样的蔬果。」 原本的餐厅「Sultan’s Table」是土耳 其企业家 Ahmet Karabaş 的心血结晶。他 本来想在香港找一家能款待贵宾的餐厅, 却遍寻无果,很快意识到若想要一家风格 道地、品味高雅的招待处,他只得自己开 业。 「Sultan’s Table」的常客很国际化,其 中当地土耳其居民占大多数,另有不少需 要清真餐馆的土耳其驻港总领事馆员工。 餐厅不仅接待过土耳其官方代表团与访港 贵宾,举办生日宴、婚宴及各式各样的喜 庆场合,每逢特殊活动还有肚皮舞表演。 三年前,Ahmet 有幸延揽 İsa 共事。充 满抱负、热情、天赋的 İsa 不同于一般厨 房领班。İsa 生于代尼兹利。13 岁时,他 只是餐饮业位阶最低的洗碗工,但他工作 认真,天资不凡,很快便锋芒毕露,18 岁 时已成为合格主厨。随后他持续在土耳其 数家高档酒店的厨房历练,曾远赴莫斯科 工作七年,先后在马赛与卡萨布兰卡待过, 之后才受聘落脚香港。 İsa 认为,在制作土耳其料理的过程 中,准备功夫是最难的,实际烹调阶段反 而相对容易。他像骄傲的父母一样展示着 「Sultan’s Table」的招牌菜,一面漾出灿笑, 一面为他的口头禅作总结 : 「先用眼睛品, 再用鼻子尝,才用嘴巴吃。摆盘呈现非常 重要。你看这个土耳其水饺,可是手工面 皮包酸奶与虾肉内馅呐!」 土耳其软糖和果仁蜜饼或许是家喻户

晓的甜点,但在整片由土耳其甜点与布丁 组成的银河里,它们根本微不足道。İsa 厨 师最喜爱的甜点理论上不算土耳其料理, 是一种有冰淇淋内馅、五颜六色、用粗面 粉制成的蛋糕,他命名为土耳其烤冰 Dondurmali İrmik。他解释道 : 「中间是冰淇淋, 外面铺上一层用粗面粉、牛奶、糖、香草、 核桃做成的饼皮,然后再烘烤。外皮会烤 熟,但中心仍是冰的。」

İsa 认为其中一道较困难的料理是一道 非常特别的羊肉丸。只见他神采飞扬地说 明碎小麦面团如何跟核桃和碎洋葱混匀, 再捏成小球状。他说 : 「把球开一个口,将 腌过的羊肉推进去,合起来,做成蛋状就 可以炸了。这是我们最热销的产品之一, 曾经一周卖超过四百个。」 İsa 表示,焕然一新的「Sultan’s Table」 即将于五月一日在奥卑利街盛大开幕,厨 师们已迫不及待大展身手,菜单也早就规 划好,蓄势待发。原本的餐厅只开晚餐时 段,新的则还供应午餐。İsa 透露 : 「我们 在设计新菜单时,先从最受欢迎的菜式着 手,希望前五大热门料理能出现在每一套 热的和冷的开胃菜里。另外烘烤的特餐应 该会无限期供应,其他菜式则会轮流推出, 让常客随时都可尝尝新花样。」 「Sultan’s Corner」 打 头 阵 后, 未 来 预计将有 25 家以上小型连锁店遍布香港, 致力于向大众推广简单朴实却令人兴奋 的土耳其美食。去年十二月底,「Sultan’s Corner」 参 加 湾 仔 一 场 盛 大 食 品 展。 提 及当时一万五千多名民众品尝料理后的 热 烈 回 响, 这 些 厨 师 们 的 眼 睛 就 变 得 闪 闪发光,还骄傲地给我看一段近乎抢食的 影片。影片中群众不住赞赏厨师制备洋葱 和酱料时大幅舞动的姿态,抢着与他们自 拍, 一 瞬 间 这 些 厨 师 们 个 个 都 成 了 大 明 星。İsa 说: 「 我们想推广安纳托利亚料理, 所作所为都发自内心,这正是我们广受青 睐的秘诀。」

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T U R K I S H K E B A B R E S TAU R A N T Chatham Road may be familiar territory, but a little side street named Chatham Court is an unexpected refuge from the rumbling traffic and relentless glitz of surrounding areas of Tsim Sha Tsui. When the breeze blows in the right direction, honey-and-fruitladen smoke from a nargile, or Turkish water pipe, might alert you to this pocket from another culture and another era, but otherwise, you could walk within a few meters of Turkish Kebab Restaurant without being aware of its existence. 102

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The name is rather misleading, because varied fare far beyond grilled meats is served. Chef/patron Mustafa Koca, who was born in the city of Gaziantep, conferred the subsidiary name of Gaziantep Gastronomy Centre on the restaurant to assure patrons of the authenticity of an exceptional cuisine that originates in Anatolia’s historic capital, where Turkey’s finest pistachios are grown. For the past six years, Koca has been


DAVID HARTUNG

serving his homestyle food to Hong Kong’s Turkish residents, who consider his café an unofficial club. There’s also a steady clientele of locals and enterprising children from nearby schools who’ve discovered a source for inexpensive and delicious quick meals. The halal kitchen also attracts steady custom from Indonesian and Malaysian tourists. Until recently, Koca juggled a second outlet in Chungking Mansion, but rent increases and logistical challenges led

him to concentrate his energies on a single location. While Chef Koca was one of a team of specialists in other restaurants where he’s worked, here he does everything. Hummus, of course, is offered, but savvy vegetarians also appreciate the variety of other meatfree choices. The menu includes several versions of lahmacun, so-called Turkish pizza, using the chef ’s freshly made pita. He features

the bread in a variety of selections, including his specialty from northwestern Turkey, İskender kebap. Found with regional variations in most parts of the country, the dish is named after its late-nineteenth-century creator, İskender Efendi. Thin slices of grilled lamb are topped with tomato-based sauce and served over pita with yogurt and grilled vegetables on the side. Another favorite is the chef ’s substantial serving of succulent pita-wrapped cod. a land between

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tronomy Centre」,向顾客保证所有独特料 理绝对正宗,都来自生产土耳其优质开心 果的安纳托利亚古都。 过去六年来,主厨 Mustafa 为香港的 土耳其裔居民供应家乡菜,他的餐馆甚至 被视为非正式的会场。有一批本地人已是 他的忠实顾客,另还有附近学校好奇心旺 盛的孩童们,发现这里的快餐味美价廉, 清真料理亦不断地吸引不少印尼与马来西 亚观光客。原本 Mustafa 在重庆大厦还有 一间餐馆,但由于租金渐涨与物流不便, 最终只得将全副精力集中在这家餐厅。 过去 Mustafa 主厨任职于其他餐厅时

只是料理团队的一员,在这里,他什么事 都得亲力亲为。鹰嘴豆泥毫无疑问是必备 料理,但还有不少无肉选项能满足讲究的 吃素人士。菜单上有土耳其薄饼 lahmacun, 也就是俗称的土耳其披萨,由厨师现擀口 袋饼制成,口味多样,还能搭配各式料理, 例如来自土耳其西北部,按十九世纪末发 明 人 İskender Efendi 命 名 的 佳 肴 İskender kebap 伊斯肯德烤肉。这道菜在土耳其各地 会随地区而稍有不同,主要以烤羊肉片为 底,铺上蕃茄酱汁,搭配口袋饼佐酸奶和 烤蔬菜。口袋饼里夹鲜嫩鳕鱼的扎实料理 则是另一项主厨的最爱。

DAVID HARTUNG

大家或许都听过漆咸道,但其侧边一条名 叫漆咸围的小路大概就鲜为人知了。一转 进来,所有尖沙咀周围的车水马龙、五光 十色竟全都被挡在外头。当微风从某个方 向轻拂,土耳其水管散发出一阵阵满满的 蜂蜜水果香,可能才会让你偶然发觉这里 别有洞天的文化与时代,否则你可能已踏 进「Turkish Kebab Restaurant」数米,都还 没意识到它的存在。 这家餐厅的名称颇有误导之嫌,它供 应 的 料 理 远 不 止 烤 肉 而 已。 老 板 兼 主 厨 Mustafa Koca 出生在加吉安特,因此又为 餐 厅 取 了 第 二 个 名 字 -「Gaziantep Gas-


137 PILLARS SUITES & RESIDENCES BANGKOK (2)

R I S I N G S TA R

ESSAY

Hong Kong gourmets will soon have the opportunity to taste some of Turkey’s finest modern cuisine. Tolgar Mireli, the country’s young up-and-coming chef, will cook in a popup venture sponsored by Turkish Airlines.

Mireli says that although he’s been fascinated by cooking since early childhood, his father opposed the idea of his making a career in this field, and he ended up as a reluctant student of political science at Ankara University. Thanks, however, to his German grandmother, he was able to travel to Europe and enroll in culinary school. He learned classic French techniques there and, following graduation, made use of a book entitled The World’s 100 Best Restaurants to target employment opportunities for his CV. Perseverance repaid him with positions at a number of increasingly renowned Michelin-starred restaurants in various parts of Europe. He worked at Le Gavroche in London, restaurant Hubertus in Austria, and the iconic Burj Al Arab Jumeirah hotel in Dubai before heading to San Francisco. Returning to Germany, he spent eighteen months as sous chef for one of the country’s best-known stars, Johann Lafer, at his prestigious Le Val d’Or in a thousand-year-old Rhineland castle. Now back in his homeland at the age of 32, Mireli is working toward opening his dream, an intimate restaurant where he can introduce his very personal approach to Turkish food exquisitely presented. “Cooking is my life,” he says. “I love French and Italian cuisine, but Turkey has many traditional techniques acquired through very different influences. We have wonderful products – lamb, fish, and vegetables – and fresh herbs growing wild in the villages. I have turned to my grandparents’ generation to research the dishes that they knew.”

Mireli adds finishing touches to dishes at the recent Asian Organic Gourmet Festival gala dinner organized by 137 Pillars Suites & Residences Bangkok. Tolgar最近受邀到于曼谷137柱 酒店举办的亚洲有机美食展晚宴一 展厨艺,为菜肴做最后润色。

香港的老饕们即将有望一饱口福,品尝土 耳其最精致的时尚料理。土耳其年轻有为 的潜力新星 Tolgar Mireli 将现身土耳其航 空赞助的期间限定餐厅为宾客服务。 Tolgar 说,他从小就深深为烹调着迷, 但他父亲反对他以厨师为职业,他只好心 不甘情不愿地进入安卡拉大学攻读政治科 学。多亏 Tolgar 的德裔祖母,他有幸至欧 洲旅游并报名就读餐饮学校,学习道地法 式厨艺。毕业后,他依循《全球 100 家最 佳餐厅》这本书求职,逐步充实自己的履 历表。 皇 天 不 负 苦 心 人,Tolgar 获 得 在 欧 洲数地名气响亮的米其林餐厅任职的机 会, 例 如 伦 敦 的「Le Gavroche」、 奥 地 利 的「Hubertus」、 杜 拜 家 喻 户 晓 的 卓 美 亚 帆船酒店等等,之后又旅居旧金山。返德 后,他来到有千年历史莱茵兰古堡里享誉 盛名的「Le Val d’Or」 ,担任国内最知名大 厨 Johann Lafer 的副手 18 个月。 现年 32 岁的 Tolgar 回到祖国,正一点 一滴努力实现梦想 :开一家小餐厅,向大 众详细介绍他烹调土耳其美食的私人秘方。 他说 : 「料理是我的生命。我热爱法国与意 大利料理,但土耳其有许多融合了多种文 化影响而成的传统烹调技艺。我们的羊肉、 鱼肉、蔬菜等各种农产品都很美味,村庄 里随处可见新鲜香草。我还请教了我的祖 父母辈,研究他们那一代的佳肴。」 A LAND BETWEEN | TK |

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ESSAY

Although Hong Kong may offer all manner of novel coffee experiences, including some that claim to be authentically Turkish, none can rival the pure theater of Güner Buran’s Coffee on the Sand. Street food and drink are very much the Turkish way, and for more than a decade, Buran and his potent brew have been a

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popular part of the cultural mix in Kowloon’s urban scene.

He started out in Tsuen Wan, where for three years he and his “portable coffee shop” were frequently seen in the streets on weekends and public holidays. Over the past seven years, Buran has become a familiar figure in the densely packed sections of Mong Kok and Sham Shui Po. He carries a copper tray of sand barely thirty centimeters square and ten deep along with his elegant tin-lined copper brewing pot, bags of ready-ground coffee, and a stack of disposable cups – plus sugar and milk for those who find the straight brew too powerful. Street coffee is all very well, but it’s also interesting to visit I Love Istanbul, Buran’s Turkish café in Tung Choi Street. Getting there is half the fun, as you sidle your way through stalls festooned with brightly colored woollen shawls, T-shirts, and sundries in the melee of what is locally known as the Ladies’ Market. Walk up two flights of dusty stairs to find the entrance alongside a traditional foot-massage parlor, and it’s like entering an extension of the street bazaar below. Pottery knickknacks of all kinds jostle for space alongside boxes of Turkish delight, packets of coffee, and postcards of two subjects, the sights of Istanbul and cats, which are one of Buran’s passions. After closing time, his four exotic Turkish felines have the run of the place, but otherwise they doze contentedly in crates by the door. In deference to non-coffee drinkers, the menu includes a wide range of flower- and fruit-flavored teas from jasmine to pomegranate, as well as meze offerings and the virtually obligatory kebabs and pizza. Opening hours start around two in the afternoon, because people in this neighborhood, says Buran, are too busy for lunch and only have time for coffee. For those who don’t like theirs too overpowering, Buran’s caffe lattes come in a number of typical Turkish flavors,

虽然香港几乎可提供所有新颖的咖啡体验, 包括某些自诩最正宗的土耳其咖啡在内, 但没有任何一家能与 Güner Buran 充满戏 剧张力的「Coffee on the Sand」媲美。路 边摊本就是土耳其风格,十多年来,Güner 和他冲调的香浓咖啡早已成为九龙区的一 抹风景,为多元文化注入充沛活力。 他一开始在荃湾待了三年,带着他的 「移动式咖啡厅」,经常游走在周末和公众 假期的街上。过去七年来,Güner 则成为 熙来攘往的旺角和深水埗一带的知名人物。 他会带着一个装满细沙、不到三十公分见 方、深十公分的铜盘、边缘镶锡、气质雅 致的铜制咖啡壶,好几袋已磨好待煮的咖 啡粉,和一叠抛弃式杯具,另外还为觉得 冲泡咖啡味道太浓烈的人准备了糖和牛奶。 街 头 咖 啡 已 经 很 有 趣, 若 能 造 访 Güner 位于通菜街的土耳其咖啡厅「I Love Istanbul」就更饶富兴味。光是前往咖啡厅 的路程就趣味横生了 :两侧摊贩林立,你 得左闪右躲地穿过色彩鲜艳的羊毛披肩、T 恤和五花八门的杂物,这热闹市集被当地

人称为「女人街」。 沿着两段尘土飞扬的阶梯拾级而上, 便会到达咖啡厅入口,紧邻一家传统足部 养生馆。底下街道市集仿似延伸到店内 : 各式各样的陶制饰品挨在一块儿,土耳其 软糖盒、一袋袋咖啡,以及伊斯坦堡景致 和猫咪两种主题的明信片一字排开,这些 可都是 Güner 的最爱。 为顾及不喝咖啡的顾客,这里的菜单 还包含茉莉、石榴等多种口味的花果茶, 亦供应餐前小点及几乎每家土耳其餐馆必 备的烤肉和披萨。咖啡厅下午两点开始营 业,Güner 表示这是因为附近的人忙到没 时间吃午餐,只能挤出时间喝咖啡。 Güner 的 咖 啡 厅 还 供 应 茉 莉、 玫 瑰、 榛果等多种经典土耳其口味的拿铁咖啡。 制备传统土耳其咖啡的作法可是获评定为 联合国教科文组织非物质文化遗产的瑰宝。 有我在一旁当观众,Güner 很是高兴。他 对步骤十分讲究,一板一眼绝不马虎,我 才知道他秤量的是低咖啡因咖啡粉。 若沙子里盐太多,咖啡会变得苦涩, a land between

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including jasmine, rose, and hazelnut. The ritual involved in the traditional preparation of Turkish coffee has earned it a place on UNESCO’s Lists of Intangible Cultural Heritage. Buran enjoys an audience, but he’s refreshingly matter-offact about the procedures as he measures out what later proves to be decaffeinated powder. Too much salt in the sand makes the coffee bitter, he says, demonstrating the time-honored technique of using hot sand to warm the pot gradually. Embedded in the sand, the pot of water and fragrant grounds takes its time coming to the boiling point, and by turning the sand with a wooden spatula, Buran maintains constant heat around the container. Bringing the liquid to temperature slowly ensures a smooth brew, and since the grounds remain suspended, very little sediment sinks to the bottom of the cup. During the process, Buran muses on the irony of his calling: “At 16, when I started hotel school training, I didn’t even like coffee. It required too much washing up in a hotel that served something like twenty-five hundred cups of coffee to guests every day. It was only later that I came to appreciate it. Now I know that coffee touches the mind and opens it.” At last, the pot boils and, almost like magic, the coffee froths up to the brim and threatens to overflow. With a wellpracticed flick of the wrist, Buran lifts the pot from the sand and sets it aside to settle before pouring the steaming brew into miniature cups resting in beaten-silver holders with elegant lids. The ideal accompaniment for the creamy smooth coffee is a bowl filled with cubes of Turkish delight in assorted colors. Flavors include orange, mint, rose (my favorite), and lemon. Buran is happy to hear that his version of this traditional delicacy doesn’t taste too sweet. He is

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reminded of his uncle who ran a Turkish delight factory: “I was working in sevenstar hotels at the time, and I advised him to change his recipe and packaging to get more business. Hong Kong people seem to appreciate it like this.” When Buran made his first visit to Hong Kong a decade ago, he saw the potential for marketing Turkish products. He soon returned from Turkey with a supply of delicacies to stock a small shop in Tsuen Wan, but found his life taking an unexpected turn. Customers and passersby were attracted by the aromas of what he’d prepared for his own lunch and asked to buy some for themselves. At first, he told them it wasn’t for sale, but he ended up giving food away to regular customers, who would often return with friends equally eager to try something new. Soon Buran bowed to the inevitable and opened a small café, where his authentic coffee and relaxing ambience continue to draw a steady business, especially on weekends. His Hong Kong–born wife, who has learned to cook Turkish food, runs a nearby sister eatery that is known variously as Turkey Anne, Turkey Antalya and I Love Antalya. Buran has had extensive experience as a restaurant and bar manager in some of Turkey’s most luxurious hotels. His gregarious nature and good looks made him a natural as a barman, and that’s the side of the work that he says he really enjoyed. While he misses the adrenaline rush, Buran likes the freedom of setting his own pace and of taking full responsibility for the success or failure of whatever he does. Nearby hotels sometimes hire him for coffee-brewing demonstrations at weddings and special theme events, but the surest way to find him is at his little café. On a slow day, you may even come across Güner Buran entertaining the crowds out front on Tung Choi Street.

他一边示范着用热沙缓慢煮沸咖啡的 古老技艺。盛满水与咖啡粉的壶埋在 沙里,逐渐升温达到沸点。Güner 还 会用一只木杓搅动热沙,维持壶边温 度恒定。缓慢加热能确保煮出的咖啡 柔滑顺口,又因为咖啡粉一直浮在表 面,沉淀到杯底的咖啡渣非常少。 在制作咖啡的期间,Güner 还畅 谈他的生命转折 : 「我十六岁开始上餐 旅学校时,我根本不喜欢咖啡。酒店 一天为宾客供应两千五百杯左右的咖 啡,要洗的东西一大堆。直到后来我 才懂得欣赏咖啡,现在我知道咖啡能 触动人心,进而使人放开胸怀。」


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终于,咖啡煮滚了,像魔法般掀起泡 沫满到边缘,眼看即将溢出。只见 Güner 手腕灵活一挥,从沙中拿起咖啡壶,摆到 旁边,再将还冒着热气的现煮咖啡倒入数 只放在银盘上、有着高雅杯盖的小杯子里。 最适合搭配此种滑顺香醇咖啡的,非 一块块七彩土耳其软糖莫属了,满满一碗 里有柳橙、薄荷、玫瑰和柠檬口味,其中 玫瑰口味是我的最爱。听到我说他做的传 统零食不会太甜,Güner 很高兴,还忆起 他过去经营土耳其软糖工厂的叔叔。他说 : 「当时我在几家七星级酒店工作,我建议他 改变做法和包装以招揽更多生意,香港人 似乎很吃这一套。」

十年前 Güner 初次来到香港,便发现 了土耳其产品的市场潜力。他很快从土耳 其带来大量食品,放在荃湾一家小店贩售, 没想到上门的客人醉翁之意不在酒,许多 顾客和路人被他自己准备的午餐香味吸引 而来,询问饭菜是否也是商品。起初他告 诉这些人这种食物是非卖品,到后来他开 始免费送食物给常客,这些常客还经常带 着像他们一样想尝鲜的朋友光顾。如此庞 大的需求让 Güner 没多久就开始经营一家 小咖啡厅,道地咖啡和悠闲氛围吸引了一 批稳定客群,事业蒸蒸日上,周末生意尤 其兴隆。他的香港籍妻子也能烹调土耳其 料理,在不远处经营一家姊妹餐馆,有人

称 它「Turkey Anne」, 或 是「Turkey Antalya」,又或是「I Love Antalya」。 Güner 曾在土耳其数家高档酒店担任 餐厅或酒吧经理多年,经验丰富。加上他 生性喜爱交际,相貌堂堂,担任调酒师可 谓得心应手,他也说这是他非常喜爱工作 的一面。尽管 Güner 怀念过去忙碌时肾上 腺激升的快感,他亦很享受自己设定工作 步调的自由,事业成败由自己全权负责。 附近酒店有时会聘请他在婚宴和特殊 场合示范冲煮咖啡,但要找到他,当然还 是在他的小咖啡厅里。生意较清闲的日子, 你可能还会遇到 Güner Buran 在店门口通 菜街上娱乐大众。 a land between

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FOOD STYLING

定格美味

kitchen to camera

An expert food stylist partners with The St. Regis Macao to help local professionals make every dish look as good as it tastes.

SHAVING FOAM and hair spray are no longer she holds on the cover. But Velasquez is the tools of food stylists who operate in more than a trendsetting stylist. The native today’s sustainable and ingredient-centric Colombian received training in classic culinary universe. With a trusty French cooking at a Vermont BY pair of tweezers and the sprightliculinary school and worked the RACHEL DUFFELL est of herbs on hand, food stylist line at various restaurants after to the stars Mariana Velasquez graduation. What always drove PHOTOGRAPHY BY translates the world’s finest cuiher was a love of cookbooks DAVID HARTUNG sines into lusciously vibrant and a persistent curiosity about works of visual art. who it was that put together Velasquez was behind the food stylthe gorgeous plates of food in them. The ing for Michelle Obama’s book American offer of an internship at Saveur magazine Grown, including the basket of fresh vegewas an opportunity to get closer to the kind tables from the White House gardens that of work that fascinated her.

在现今以食材为中心又强调永续性的烹 饪世界中,食物造型师们已经不再利用 刮胡泡与发胶来完成作品。只要有一把 可靠的镊子与青翠的香草在手,明星食 物造型师 Mariana Velasquez 就能将世界 顶级的美食转化成赏心悦目的视觉艺术。 《 美 国 式 种 植 》 由 Michelle Obama 执笔。Mariana 曾负责设计书中的食物 造型,封面上 Michelle 手提着的那一篮 在白宫花园采来的新鲜蔬果,也是 Mariana 的杰作。不过,Mariana 可不仅只是 个引领风潮的食物造型师。在哥伦比亚 土生土长的她,以前也在佛蒙特的厨艺 学校受过传统法式烹饪训练,毕业后更 a land between

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Velasquez’s tools of the trade Mariana 的摆盘工具

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One of Velasquez’s first projects was a story about food from Pakistan that required her to recreate dishes from scratch. Her culinary background served her well as she scoured the streets of New York for a halal butcher with the baby goat needed for a biryani and sought out the advice of the city’s best Pakistani home cooks. The assignment also propelled her from the kitchen to the camera as she began styling the food she prepared. Since then, her work has led her on to visit the homelands of many of the world’s most interesting cuisines. One notable project involved food styling and recipe testing for The Food of Morocco, a cookbook by Paula Wolfert, referred to by Velasquez as the Julia Child of Moroccan food in America. “Talk about a fast course in Moroccan cooking,” she says. “I had to do all the research and then prepare the recipes. What with manipulating the spices and understanding the timing, some dishes took seven hours. We cooked in a riad [traditional Moroccan house] in Marrakesh with a superold stove and a great staff of ladies who spoke Berber and very little French. We communicated through cooking, and it was one of those magical moments with women who knew so much. They looked at me like I was crazy using tweezers to style the tagine.” Velasquez found Moroccan foods some of the most visually appealing. “Cuisines that are very textured, where you have rices, nuts, and herbs, are so photogenic,” she says. “Colombian food is very hard to photograph, because it’s usually one-pot meals and big stews where everything goes in together. It’s delicious but not necessarily so pretty. You have to give it the right highlights and textures and garnish it well.” When Velasquez styles shots today, she prefers to give them an organic look. “I think people want to feel that they could make the food they’re seeing. If it’s too distant, there’s a separation and the food looks too perfect. Food that feels closer and more intimate has more appetite appeal and makes a more successful image.” Most recently, Velasquez’s work brought


曾任职于五花八门的餐厅。她对烹饪书的 热爱,以及对于书上华丽摆盘的幕后造型 师的好奇,是她最大的动力所在。《Saveur》 杂志的实习邀请,让她有机会踏入她最爱 的领域。 Mariana 的第一份企划是有关巴基斯 坦食物的故事,需要她从头开始重现餐点。 凭借她的厨师背景,她得以在纽约的街头 寻找一名清真屠夫处理印度香饭里的羔羊 肉,以及在整个城内寻求最好的巴基斯坦 厨师提供建议。这份企划也使她放下厨具, 拿起摄影机,为她自己准备的食材做设计。 从那时起,她的工作便开始引导她探寻许 多世界上耐人寻味的美食根源。 另一份著名的企划是为 Paula Wolfert 所 撰 写 的 烹 饪 书《The Food of Morocco》 做食物造型与食谱测试。Mariana 称 Paula 为 美 国 摩 洛 哥 料 理 界 中 的 Julia Child。 Mariana 说道 : 「书的内容是关于摩洛哥料 理的快速烹饪课,我得先找好所有资料,

然后准备好食谱。像是香料该怎么放、烹 煮时间该怎么抓,有些菜则需要煮上七个 小时之久。我们在马拉喀什的一间 Riad(摩 洛 哥 传 统 住 宅 ) 里, 用 一 座 非 常 老 旧 的 炉子与一群说着柏柏尔语混杂少量法语的 女士们一起烹调食物。我们几乎是用厨艺 来沟通,与这些摩洛哥菜专家的厨间交流 相当美妙。不过我用镊子帮塔吉锅做造型 的时候,她们用看疯子的眼神看着我就是 了。」 Mariana 认为摩洛哥料理是最赏心悦 目的料理。她说 : 「摩洛哥的每道菜式都质 感不凡,米饭、坚果与香草的摆放位置讲 究,每一样食材都非常上镜。哥伦比亚料 理就不太适合上镜头了,每一道几乎都是 大锅菜,所有食材都混在一起。尝起来依 然可口但通常不那么美观,需要适当的灯 光、到位的质感再加上精致的装饰才能拍 出好作品。」 在 Mariana 的镜头下,她偏好让料理

看起来天然一些。她表示 : 「我认为人们想 看到他们自己做得出来的料理。如果都设 计得太有距离感,那就无法引起共鸣,食 物也会看起来过于完美。亲切可人的料理 往往看起来更令人食指大动,也能拍出更 成功的照片。」 最近,Mariana 凭着杰出的作品,有机 会来到港澳地区开设食物造型工作坊,也 将她的企划 Cena Rosa,也就是西班牙文 的「粉红晚餐」,推广到这里来。这个企划 的创作灵感来自于墨西哥新晋建筑师 Luis Barragán 闻名于世的粉红色饮食。Mariana 的工作坊总是强调色彩的运用,从各个城 市的代表色调寻找灵感。她表示 : 「运用高 度专注力引导出天马行空的想像力是我的 诉求。」 Mariana 与澳门瑞吉金沙城中心酒店 合作,为当地食物摄影师与食物造型师开 设这个工作坊,鼓励他们用琳琅满目的材 料与工具来尽情搭配,从可食用花与色彩 a land between

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“ Stand by a window – natural light is key. Try different angles. Play with it and take risks. But most importantly, photograph things that you’re passionate about – food that you want to eat. 最好站到窗边再拍,因为自然光非常关键。多尝试不 同拍摄角度、大胆地玩,不要怕冒险。但关键在于 要拍你的热情所在,拍那些你真正会想吃的食物。”

her to Hong Kong and Macau, where she conducted food styling workshops and expanded her project named Cena Rosa, which means “pink dinner” in Spanish. It was inspired by the late Mexican architect Luis Barragán, who was known for eating entirely pink meals. She always emphasizes color in her workshops, drawing inspiration from the prevailing tones of different cities. “It’s about how hyper-focus can expand your creative channels,” she says. In partnership with The St. Regis Macao, Velasquez held workshops for local food photographers and stylists, encouraging them to experiment with various ingredients as well as props, from edible flowers and colorful herbs to a range of fabrics in complementary and contrasting colors. A highlight of the program was her demonstration of the various stages in perfecting the presentation of a dish prepared by the chefs of The St. Regis Macao. “It’s really fun when it’s someone else’s food and you get to bring it to life just by plating it differently or finding the right angle.” Participants were also guided in styling an original Cena Rosa in the spirit of Barragán. In giving tips to the region’s many food photographers, for whom the camera always eats first, she advises, “Stand by a window – natural light is key. Get to know your gadgets – if you have a phone, experiment with exposure and various alterations. Try

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different angles. Play with it and take risks. But most importantly, photograph things that you’re passionate about – food that you want to eat.” Velasquez’s personal passion for things she wants to eat relates to an overall philosophy that encompasses art and design. For her, these lifestyle elements are always closely connected. Most recently, her love of fashion intersected with her culinary interests in the creation of her own line of aprons designed to match her look to the meticulously executed nature of her food styling. “I wanted something that would complement my outfits but still be practical,” she says, “something that would really protect my clothes but also make me feel I was well dressed. You’re in contact with the client all the time on set, and I wanted to look put together.” Last year, she began selling the line of dress-like aprons tailored from fabrics in bold designs and floral prints. “It really brings it all together – I love the fashion aspect integrated into cooking.” Elegantly dressed in an outfit by Colombian designer Leal Daccarett, Velasquez neatly encapsulates her own approach: “When you think about it, fashion designers create fabulous outfits for going places and meeting people, and food is usually part of the way we interact. I think there’s a cohesiveness to the way you eat, the way you dress, and the way you celebrate life.”

A Cena Rosa amuse-bouche: David Hervé Fine and Kumamoto Japanese oysters with pickled-red-onion mignonette. 粉红晚餐 (Cena Rosa)中 的一道前菜:法国 David Hervé 牡蛎及日本熊本牡 蛎,配腌红洋葱木犀草酱

缤纷的香草到各式各样的互补与对比 色布料,应有尽有。工作坊最令人期 待的是她示范为酒店主厨的料理美化 摆盘设计,将造型过程一步步分解展 示。她表示 : 「利用摆盘技术或角度 的掌握,将别人的料理变得活灵活现, 总是让我兴致勃勃。」学员们也能跟 随着她的引导,创作带有 Luis 灵魂的 Cena Rosa 料理。 对于许多「相机先吃」的食物摄


影师,她也给出一些建议 : 「最好站到窗边 再拍,因为自然光非常关键。身边的小工 具也要多多认识,如果手上有部手机,就 把它的曝光度还有其他调节选项拿来调调 看。多尝试不同拍摄角度、大胆地玩,不 要怕冒险。但关键在于要拍你的热情所在, 拍那些你真正会想吃的食物。」 Mariana 对喜爱的食物热情与她生活 哲学中包含的艺术与设计息息相关。对她 来说,这些生活中的元素总是环环相扣。

最近,为了搭配她一丝不苟的食物造型风 格,她设计出一系列围裙,这些布料不只 展现她对时尚的热爱,更融合她对烹饪的 兴趣。 她说 : 「我想设计的是能搭配我本身的 服装,又兼具实用价值的围裙,要能具有 防污效果又不失优雅。由于为食物造型的 整个过程,都需要与客户密切互动,因此 我希望能看起来体面一些。」去年,她开始 贩售一系列的洋装式围裙,每一件都是具

有大胆设计与碎花图案的织品。她认为: 「这 真的是集大成的作品,时尚融入烹饪是我 最喜欢的特色。」 Mariana 身 穿 哥 伦 比 亚 设 计 师 Leal Daccarett 的作品,显得优雅非凡。她简洁 地归纳了自己的看法 : 「仔细一想,我们可 以发现,时尚设计师创作华美的服饰供人 外出与社交时使用,而食物也常常是人们 互动的媒介。我认为人们用餐、穿着以及 享受生活的方式,三者是密不可分的。」 a land between

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PRESENTED BY CANDIA PROFESSIONAL

简单优雅

elegance and simplicity One of Hong Kong’s leading pastry chefs explains why it takes premium ingredients from Candia Professional to make his concepts a delicious reality.


In the kitchens of his Thomas Trillion pâtisserie, Chef Lui puts Candia Professional Whipping Cream to the test.

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

吕师傅在「Thomas Trillion」的厨房内使用 Candia Professional 稀奶油制作甜品。

“WHEN I CREATE A RECIPE,” says Chef Thomas Lui, “I already know in my head what the finished product is going to look like.” The Hong Kong–based pastry chef, whose experience spans more than forty years, reveals something of the thought process behind his meticulously constructed fantasies. Their contemporary visual appeal and harmonies of flavor live up to his culinary philosophy of “elegance and simplicity.” Lui’s career got its start when, as a teenager, he began working at The Peninsula Hong Kong. Eight years ago, he opened his own business, Thomas Trillion, and sells his original creations in-store and online, supplying them as well to top hotels and restaurants. One favorite is a sumptuous chocolate and cherry delight, a spherical sweet featuring multiple layers of taste and texture. Lui explains that once he has envisioned a new dessert, he considers the ingredients that will bring it to life. For this recipe, he insists on Candia Professional Whipping Cream and Candia Professional Unsalted Butter 82%. In a recipe that calls for so much cream, Candia Professional’s unmatched quality is absolutely essential: “With other creams, you sometimes get an off-tinge or grainy texture, which would definitely mar the aesthetics of the final result.” He finds that Candia Professional cream retains its white sheen when whipped and never fails to produce the silky smoothness it’s famous for. “As soon as we tried it, we noticed Candia Professional’s superior quality.” The pure taste and subtle, sweet notes of Candia Professional Unsalted Butter are also crucial to the recipe’s success. “This dessert has a rich dark chocolate biscuit at the bottom,” says Lui, “and Candia Professional’s creamy fresh aroma brings out the flavor beautifully.”

香港知名糕点师傅吕德辉 (Thomas Lui) 表示 : 「开发新作 的同时,脑海里也会浮现出成品的样子。 」这位经历超过

40 年的糕点界宗师大方剖析自己的构思过程,分享如何打 造精雕细琢的梦幻甜点。他的作品充满现代风格,味道协 调、细腻,印证的是自己一贯的烹饪哲学-简单及优雅。 吕德辉少时便开始在香港半岛酒店工作,为糕点生涯 ,除了于 揭开序幕。八年前,他创办了「Thomas Trillion」 实体店面及线上贩售,也为各大一流酒店及餐厅供应精心 创作的各式原创糕点,其中又以一款球状的巧克力及樱桃 甜点特别受欢迎,甜点以多层次的美味及口感为卖点。 说到创作新糕点,他表示一开始就会想着用什么食 材最好,可以产生加乘的效果。举这次的新作为例,他 就 坚 持 只 用 最 好 的 Candia Professional 稀 奶 油 及 Candia Professional 82% 无盐黄油。吕德辉强调,对需要大量使 用奶油的新系列来说,Candia Professional 无可匹敌的高 品质产品扮演了举足轻重的角色 : 「用其他品牌奶油,有 时颜色会略微偏黄,或出现粒状口感,大大影响最终成 品的造型及美感,前功尽弃。 」但 Candia Professional 奶 油打发后呈亮白色泽,制作出来的淡奶油仍保留 Candia 「一试便 Professional 质地如丝般滑顺的招牌特色。他说 : 」 为 Candia Professional 的超卓品质所惊艳。 此 系 列 糕 点 的 高 完 成 度, 也 要 归 功 于 Candia Professional 无盐黄油的纯粹味道及细致香甜的风味。吕 德辉开心地说明 : 「Candia Professional 绵密又新鲜的气息 正好与甜点底部味道丰厚的黑巧克力饼干相辅相成,带出 令人着迷的完美韵致。 」 a land between

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ROMANOFF RICH CHOCOLATE BISCUIT

GANACHE

CHERRY COMPOTE

RED CHOCOLATE GLAZE

206 g Candia Professional Unsalted Butter 118 g dark chocolate (65%) 166 g whole eggs 248 g icing sugar 100 g cake flour 166 g almonds, chopped

115 g Candia Professional Whipping Cream 119 g dark chocolate (52%), shaved 119 g milk 38 g Candia Professional Unsalted Butter, softened 8 g glucose 1/2 vanilla bean, split and grated

37 g gelatin mass (6 g 200-Bloom gelatin powder and 31 g water) 111 g cherry purée 210 g cherries 96 g invert sugar

89 g water 177 g sugar 177 g glucose 118 g sweetened condensed milk 89 g gelatin mass (12 g 200-Bloom gelatin powder bloomed in 77g water) 148 g dark couverture chocolate (64%) 3 g red food coloring

CARAMEL CHOCOLATE MOUSSE 70 g caster sugar 25 g water 60 g egg yolk 50 g whole egg 200 g dark chocolate (65%) 3 sheets gelatin, bloomed 250 g Candia Professional Whipping Cream, whisked to soft peaks

1. Combine sugar and water and cook to 128°C. 2. Combine egg yolk and whole egg. 3. While stirring, slowly pour sugar syrup over egg to create a bombe mixture. 4. Add gelatin and beat vigorously; continue beating until cool. 5. Melt chocolate and bring to 45°C. 6. Fold in bombe mixture. 7. Fold in whipped cream.

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1. Bring cream and vanilla to a boil. 2. Strain cream into chocolate, mixing to a smooth ganache, and cool to 40°C. 3. Incorporate butter.

CHERRY MOUSSE 170 g cherry purée 64 g Candia Professional Whipping Cream 38 g egg whites 28 g sugar 12 g glucose 34 g gelatin mass (6g 200-Bloom gelatin powder and 28 g water)

1. Heat a quarter of the purée with the gelatin mass to 45°C. 2. Mix into the remaining purée, and keep mixture at 20°C. 3. Beat egg whites and sugar to make meringue. 4. On low speed, add purée mixture. 5. Fold in cream. Place in mold measuring 2.5 cm and freeze until set.

CHOCOLATE SHORTCRUST 110 g Candia Professional Unsalted Butter 105 g sugar 50 g dark chocolate (64%) 100 g cake flour 40 g bread flour 12 g baking powder 10 g cocoa powder 50 g egg yolk

1. Mix butter, flour, and baking powder in mixer to an even texture. 2. Add rest of ingredients. 3. Refrigerate 12 hours. 4. Roll dough to 3 mm thickness. Cut into disks 3.5 cm in diameter. 5. Place in a baking tray and bake at 170°–180°C for 8–9 minutes.

1. Cook sugar, water, and glucose to 103°C. 2. Pour syrup over condensed milk, gelatin mass, chocolate, and coloring. 3. Mix well and refrigerate for 24 hours. 4. When needed, heat glaze to 40°C and use at 35°C.

CHOCOLATE SHELLS 1. Temper chocolate. 2. Pour into 6-cm-diameter hemispherical molds. Refrigerate.

ASSEMBLY 1. Fill mold about 3/5 full with caramel chocolate mousse. 2. Pour frozen cherry mousse into compote. 3. Fill center with cherry mousse and compote mix. Add ganache and chocolate biscuit on top. 4. Separately, place chocolate shell atop shortcrust. 5. Place molded mousse into shell and add another shell on top. 6. Spray top shell with dark chocolate and add gold leaves.

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

1. Combine butter with melted chocolate at 40°C. 2. Mix icing sugar with whole eggs and add to the chocolate mixture. 3. Coarsely chop almonds and mix with the sifted flour. 4. Combine all ingredients and bake at 180°C for 10-12 minutes.

1. Warm purée, invert sugar, and gelatin to 40°C. 2. Cut cherries in half. 3. Add cherries to purée and process in a vacuum sealer to 100% vacuum. 4. Refrigerate until gelled.


PRESENTED BY CANDIA PROFESSIONAL

罗曼诺夫 浓醇巧克力饼干

糖渍樱桃

206克 Candia Professional 无盐黄油 118克 65% 黑巧克力 166克 全蛋 248克 糖粉 100克 蛋糕粉 166克 杏仁碎粒

37克 明胶块 (6克200胶化度的明胶粉加 上31克的水) 111克 樱桃酱 210克 樱桃 96克 转化糖

1. 将黄油与40度的巧克力酱混和 2. 将糖粉与全蛋混和后,加入前 一步骤的巧克力混和物中 3. 将杏仁再稍微切碎,倒入过筛 的蛋糕粉 4. 把以上食材混合后放入烤箱, 以180度烘烤10至12分钟。

焦糖巧克力慕斯 70克 砂糖 25克 水 60克 蛋黄 50克 全蛋 200克 65%黑巧克力 3片 胶化明胶 250克 Candia Professional 稀奶油,打 发至尖峰状

1. 将砂糖加水煮沸至128度 2. 将蛋黄和全蛋混和 3. 混和搅拌时,将糖浆缓缓倒入 蛋液中,做成炸弹面糊 4. 加入明胶并大力搅拌,直至冷 却 5. 将巧克力融化后静置,待其降 温至45度 6. 将巧克力拌入炸弹面糊 7. 接着再拌入稀奶油。

甘纳许 115克 Candia Professional 稀奶油 119克 片状52%黑巧克力 119克 牛奶 38克 常温Candia无盐黄油 8克 葡萄糖 1/2条 打开后磨碎的香草豆荚

1. 将稀奶油和香草豆混和煮沸 2. 再将稀奶油挤入巧克力中,混 和成滑顺的甘纳许,冷却至40 度 3. 最后加入黄油。

樱桃慕斯 170克 樱桃酱 64克 Candia Professional 稀奶油 38克 蛋白 28克 糖 12克 葡萄糖 34克 明胶块 (6克200胶化度的明胶粉 加上28克的水)

1. 将明胶块与四分之一的樱桃酱 加热至45度 2. 将以上混和物加入剩下的樱桃 酱中,保持温度在20度 3. 将蛋白与糖一起打发,做成蛋 白糖霜 4. 用低速档打发,一边加入樱桃 酱混和物 5. 将稀奶油拌入其中。放进 2.5 厘米的模后,再放入冷冻库。

1. 将混和的樱桃酱、转化糖与明胶 块加热至40度 2. 将樱桃对切 3. 把樱桃加入步骤一的混和物,放 到真空封口机抽至完全真空 4. 放入冰箱使其凝结。

红巧克力亮面糖浆 89克 水 177克 糖 177克 葡萄糖 118克 甜炼乳 89克 明胶块 (12克200胶化度的明胶粉 加上77克的水) 148克 64%黑调温巧克力 3克 红色食用色素

1. 将糖、水和葡萄糖混合加热至 103度 2. 将上一步骤制成的糖浆倒入炼 乳、明胶块、巧克力与红色食用 色素中。搅拌均匀,再放入冰箱 冷藏24小时 3. 需要时,加热至40度再待其冷却 至35度即可使用。

巧克力酥饼 110克 Candia Professional 无盐黄油 105克 糖 50克 64%黑巧克力 100克 蛋糕粉 40克 面粉 12克 小苏打粉 10克 可可粉 50克 蛋黄

1. 将黄油、面粉、蛋糕粉与小苏打 粉放入搅拌机搅拌均匀 2. 加入剩下的所有材料 3. 冷藏12小时。将酥饼半成品放在 3毫米厚的烘培纸上,切成数个 直径3. 5公分的圆形 4. 放至烤盘上以170度至180度烘 烤8至9分钟。

巧克力壳 1. 加热巧克力 2. 放入模具中制成两个直径6公分 的半球体,放入冰箱冷藏。

组合 1. 将焦糖巧克力慕斯倒入模具至 3/5满 2. 混合樱桃幕斯与糖渍樱桃,中心 处放入樱桃幕斯与糖渍樱桃 4. 用甘纳许与巧克力饼干覆盖樱桃 幕斯 5. 将其中一个巧克力壳放到酥饼上 6. 将成型的幕斯放入壳内,再把 另一半巧克力壳盖上去,在巧 克力壳上洒黑巧克力与金箔即 大功告成。

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PRESENTED BY MACAU FISHERMAN’S WHARF

双重诱惑

double temptations The rustic Brazilian steaks and ocean-fresh specialties of FW Rio Grill & Seafood Market add dining excitement to Macau Fisherman’s Wharf.

chef Lucio Mauro Cabral Leal, “you don’t look for a swimming pool or a big garden. The most important thing is a grill, and if you find a nice one, it’s a done deal. The grill is simply part of Brazilian life and attitude.” That’s exactly the ethos that the talented executive chef brings to FW Rio Grill, the newly opened Brazilian steakhouse at Macau Fisherman’s Wharf. Inspired by the lore of eighteenth-century gauchos, the legendary cowboys known for their hunting skills, the restaurant insists on authentic Brazilian wood-fired grilling. The dining area, themed on the culture of southern Brazilian aboriginals, is equipped with a custom fifty-six-skewer rotisserie that perfectly grills each cut, while retaining the natural flavors and juices. Leal’s passion for authentic Brazilian food goes back to childhood. “My grandmother is a chef,” he explains, “and my love of cooking started with my family.” After culinary school in Brazil, Leal worked in steakhouses across the globe, including twelve years in Macau. “The way Brazilians do barbecue, the way they prepare and deliver a steak, is totally

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DAVID HARTUNG

“WHEN YOU BUY A HOUSE in Brazil,” says


Executive Chef Lucio Mauro Cabral Leal


Picanha, top sirloin 顶级后腿肉西冷

different from what you find anywhere else,” he says. “The two most important things at a Brazilian steakhouse, or churrascaria, are the way we cook the meat and the quality of the meat itself.” At FW Rio Grill, Leal offers a choice of fifteen varieties of

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premium meats. Once expertly grilled, the meat is brought on a skewer to the table and guests are served whatever amount they’d like. True to the way the gauchos enjoyed them, meats are seasoned with salt and nothing more. The restaurant’s

谈到巴西人对烤肉的狂热,「烤」行政总厨 Lucio Mauro Cabral Leal 形容 : 「在巴西买 房子,看的不是游泳池,也不是广阔的庭院, 重点在于烤炉好坏,让人满意的话,几乎 就已是成交在即。烤肉就是巴西人日常生 活及态度的一部分。」 「烤」最近于澳门渔人码头盛大开张, 体现的正是总厨口中道地的巴西烤肉精神。 纵横 18 世纪南美大草原的南美牛仔高乔人 以高超狩猎技术而闻名于世。餐厅则是以 这个民族传奇故事为灵感,提供原汁原味 的巴西烤肉料理。一步入充满浓浓巴西南 部原住民文化风格的用餐区,就可看到可 容纳 56 串烧烤的特制烤炉,能让烤出来的 每块肉都保有天然风味及满满的肉汁。 Lucio 从小就对于道地的巴西菜很感兴 趣。他回忆道 : 「我奶奶也是厨师,让我从 小耳濡目染,很喜欢做菜。 」自巴西的烹饪 学校毕业后,他踏遍世界,于多个不同的扒 房历练,在澳门就待了 12 年之久。 他强调 : 「巴西人烤肉的方式,包括备 料及出餐都非常独特,跟其他地方完全不 同。我们巴西牛排馆,或窑烤餐厅就看两 样东西 :料理肉类的方法和肉的品质。」由 Lucio 主理的「烤」提供多达 15 种顶级肉类, 以专业手法烤过后串在肉叉上,由专人拿 到桌边现点现切,份量由客人决定。调味 也与南美牛仔们手法如出一辙,简单洒点 盐即可。餐厅的招牌 Picanha,即葡萄牙语 中的顶级后腿肉西冷。 根据 Lucio 所述, 这是「特别多汁、柔嫩的部位」,烤 10 至 15 分钟约三分熟正好吃。 葡式黑豆炖肉也是不容错过的招牌菜, 可以吃得到黑豆、猪肉、牛肉及香肠相互 交融的美味。Lucio 表示 : 「里面还有一些 不能透露的食材。」肉类先以大蒜、洋葱、 盐及胡椒腌过,接着用牛高汤炖煮。这道 传统料理在葡萄牙各个原殖民地区都还相 当常见,只是各地口味略有不同。总厨说 : 「感觉像汤,但又不是。」巴西人习惯做得 相当丰盛,作为前菜相当合适,一开始就 令人大呼过瘾。 「烤」另一道人气料理是总厨特制 abacaxi 窑烤凤梨,裹上糖及肉桂粉后过烤两 小时至表面焦糖化,接着原封不动串在肉 叉上拿到桌边大片切给客人享用。餐厅凤 梨从菲律宾直送。对此,Lucio 解释 : 「好 吃的秘诀无他,就是品质要好。我们选用 的凤梨非常多汁,带有异国风味,入口后 酸酸甜甜,而且一定要趁热上桌才好吃。」

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

PRESENTED BY MACAU FISHERMAN’S WHARF


Feijoada stew with black beans, pork, beef and sausage 葡式黑豆炖肉

signature Picanha, the Portuguese term for the top sirloin above the rump, is, says Leal, “the juicier, tenderer part of the cow.” It takes ten to fifteen minutes on the grill to reach a point somewhere around medium-rare. Consider next the Grill’s feijoada, a stew made with black beans, pork, beef, and sausage. “There are also some secret ingredients that I won’t reveal,” says Leal. The meats are first seasoned with garlic, onion, salt, and pepper and then cooked with beef stock. Originally from Portugal, the dish can be found throughout the nation’s former colonies with slightly varied recipes. “It looks like a soup, but it isn’t,” says the chef. When done the Brazilian way, the rich stew is hearty enough to make a satisfying entrée. Also popular with FW Rio Grill’s diners is the chef ’s abacaxi, or pineapple, slowcooked on the grill. Sugar and cinnamon are added to the fruit, and it is allowed to caramelize for two hours before being carried intact on a skewer to the table, where diners are served as big a slice as they wish.

“The secret behind our pineapple is the quality,” says Leal, who sources his fruit from the Philippines. “It’s full of juicy, exotic flavors, sweet with a bit of acidity at the same time, and it has to be served hot.” Many favorite dishes are part of the Brazilian rodizio buffet, an all-you-can-eat array that’s a familiar sight at restaurants in Brazil, and one that’s closely associated with gaucho dining culture. Brazilian pastas, rice dishes, and salads are served at a second buffet area in the heart of the dining room. While sizzling barbecue and hearty South American dishes reign supreme at FW Rio Grill on the upper level of the oceanfront venue, there’s an altogether different vibe downstairs on the ground floor. Seafood Market is an airy space with a marine-themed décor that pays tribute to its inspiration, the Sydney Fish Market. The focal point is a broad outdoor terrace overlooking the water. “In this sort of relaxed environment, people might grab a glass of wine and a dozen oysters,” says Chef Daniel Ng, who helms the kitchen.

A Hongkonger who perfected his craft at fine-dining restaurants in his home city and Macau, Ng has refined his approach through more than twenty years of experience. “FW Seafood Market is all about the freshest possible ingredients prepared and presented in a modern, straightforward way,” he says. That school of thought is on sumptuous display in the restaurant’s seafood platter, heaped with sweet, fresh-from-the-sea oysters, king prawns, lobster, and Alaskan king crab. According to Ng, getting the most from the best ingredients requires practiced skill. A lot of thought goes into creating the most interesting combinations of flavors, and knowing when to use each ingredient is key. “But no matter how delicious an ingredient is,” says Ng, “if it’s not in season, it’s not going to work.” Unlike ultra-posh establishments that put a lot of emphasis on unnecessary frills, FW Seafood Market delivers honest dining at an accessible price point. “The term ‘fine dining’ often gives people the idea that they’re going a land between

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Executive Sous Chef Daniel Ng 行政副总厨吴志雄


PRESENTED BY MACAU FISHERMAN’S WHARF

Seafood platter with oysters, king prawns, lobster and Alaskan king crab 豪华海鲜拼盘:新鲜生蚝、特大 明虾、龙虾及阿拉斯加帝王蟹

to have to spend a fortune on a meal,” says Ng, “but here, where everything is casual and approachable, we’ll sometimes serve seafood with shells intact.” “And at some pricey hotel seafood restaurants, you might be cooped up inside with air conditioning blasting and an ambience that seems phony. But with our open-air terrace on a pier overlooking the ocean, you really feel like you’re dining at a fresh seafood market.” Chef Leal agrees with Chef Ng on the importance of offering diners authentic experiences like FW Rio Grill & Seafood Market: “Macau needs something different and unique to keep guests coming back for more, not just to the restaurants, but to the city. I don’t want Macau to be only about casinos, I want it to be just as much about great food. That’s why, when it comes to dining, Macau needs fresh new choices like ours.”

餐厅里的巴西式自助餐台还供应许多 招牌菜。此种用餐形式可说是许多巴西餐 厅的寻常风景,也与高乔人的饮食文化有 密切关连。用餐区正中央的第二自助餐台 则有巴西风意大利面、米饭料理及沙拉, 品项非常丰富。 向海的一间餐厅主打滋滋作响的 BBQ 烤肉及众多的南美料理,但往下一楼看到 的却是完全不同的景致。地面层「鲜」餐 厅的装潢走海洋风,空间宽敞,以悉尼海 鲜市场为蓝本。正中央是广阔的户外露台, 可将大海尽收眼底。主掌厨房的 Daniel Ng 说: 「客人可以尽情享受这种放松的氛围, 喝杯酒,点十几只生蚝慢慢品尝。」 Daniel 出身香港,曾于香港及澳门不 同精致餐饮名店历练。经过 20 多年来的不 断精进,他的功力炉火纯青。Daniel 指出 : 「我们非最新鲜的食材不用,以最现代、直 接的方式将美食送上桌。」「鲜」呈献的豪 华海鲜拼盘汇集新鲜生蚝、特大明虾、龙 虾及阿拉斯加帝王蟹。藉此,主厨对食材 的要求一展无遗。 Daniel 也透露,要让一时之选的食材 发挥最佳美味,没有反覆练习的技巧是做

不来的。关键在于如何精心组合出引人入 胜的美味,以及掌握各食材使用的时机。 但他也提醒 : 「不管食材有多美味,不是当 季食材的话,鲜味的层次就上不来。」 「鲜」不走浮夸路线,不添加一堆不必 要的装饰,而是诚心面对客人,以实惠价 格提供优质餐饮。Daniel 表示: 「一讲到『精 致餐饮』,就好像一顿饭要花很多钱一样, 但在我们餐厅,一切都很随性,价格也亲民, 有时候海鲜还带壳直接端上桌,原汁原味。」 Daniel 认为 : 「到昂贵的酒店海鲜餐厅 用餐,有点被关起来的感觉,空调猛吹, 气氛也很刻意造作。『鲜』就在码头边,可 以在开放式露台上远望大海,就好像真的 身处海鲜市集吃饭一般新鲜。」 Lucio 与 Daniel 意 见 一 致, 再 次 强 调 为客人提供道地用餐体验的重要性,也正 是「烤与鲜」的目标 : 「澳门需要与众不 同、独一无二的地方,让客人变成回头客, 不只回到餐厅,更能持续回访澳门。我希 望这个城市不仅仅因为赌场出名,也要提 供各式各样的美食,这也就是为什么澳门 的餐饮业界需要像我们餐厅一样的『新鲜』 选择。」 a land between

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PRESENTED BY MACAU FISHERMAN’S WHARF

「沪」转千回

pleasing palates Jade Orchid’s innovative chef brings his authentic Shanghainese cuisine to perfection.

SIMON LUI YIP-KEUNG is a self-confessed foodie. “When you’re in the industry, you end up trying out a lot of different dishes – chefs have always been inviting other chefs to come visit their restaurants.” It was in this interactive environment of his early days in the industry that Lui began developing his perfectionist tendencies. “As a chef, the most important thing when I’m creating a dish is to make it the best it can possibly be.” Having started out in Hong Kong, Lui is now executive chef at acclaimed

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Shanghainese restaurant Jade Orchid, Harbourview Hotel at Macau Fisherman’s Wharf in Macau, a city he has called home for the past fifteen years. With more than forty years’ experience, the seasoned chef is an expert in both Shanghainese and Huaiyang cuisines. Huaiyang is a regional variation from Changjiang River Valley that places great emphasis on the quality of ingredients. Lui believes that offering diners the finest products is the first step in presenting authentic flavors and that a deep understanding of the

cuisine is crucial to providing guests with an outstanding dining experience. “It’s about tradition, really,” he says. “I’m always telling my colleagues to respect the traditions of the cuisine you’re working with.” Lui has also found that the ability to adapt is important. He recalls stories of Chinese chefs finding themselves in kitchens without soy sauce and temperamentally declaring that they couldn’t cook. “You need to be able to use your own experience and skills to make adjustments.”


Executive Chef Lui Yip-keung

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Sautéed shelled river shrimps 清炒蝦仁

That’s where Jade Orchid’s authentic creations come in. The old-school dish of honey-glazed ham and lotus seed is a Shanghainese signature, but the history of the dish reflects the constant development that food undergoes as it’s brought to new places. “In Shanghai, they serve it as a thick cut of ham,” says Lui, “which to me seems greasy. Shanghainese immigrants in Taiwan created a thin-cut version, the deluxe honey-glazed ham.” This, he says, was brought to Hong

行政总厨 吕业强(旻轩)

自称「美食家」的吕业强( 旻 轩)总厨 笑着说 : 「在餐饮界你可以吃到各种美食, 尤其厨师们都会邀请同行到自己的餐厅 试菜。」他初入行时已有机会与其他大厨 们频繁互动,造就他的完美主义。他表示: 「作为厨师,当我创作新菜式时,最主要 的考量是如何展现菜式最完美的一面。」 吕总厨少时在香港入行,之后在他称 为「家」的澳门生活了 15 年,同时也把 澳门渔人码头励庭海景酒店上海餐厅「玉 兰苑」当为自己的家。吕总厨拥有超过 40 年经验,精于炮制上海菜和淮扬菜。

淮扬菜是流行于中国长江流域的菜 系,特别强调食材的质量。吕总厨相信要 为客人呈现最正宗的口味,必须要用最好 的食材。同时对美食的深刻理解也是带来 出色用餐体验的首要条件。 他说 : 「必须考虑当地传统,我常告 诉我的伙伴一定要尊重菜式的传统。」适 当的调整有时同样重要,他想起曾听说有 些中国厨师到了没酱油的厨房就发脾气说 没办法煮。他认为 : 「厨师一定要能靠自 己的经验与技术,顺应环境做出适当调 整。」 a land between

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Kong, where chefs further experimented with the dish, blanching the ham, slicing it into thin pieces, and steaming it “to rid it of the highly salty flavor.” It is marinated in a syrup of honey and rock sugar and steamed again to ensure that the meat absorbs the sweet flavors. Finally, the ham, along with bean curd skin, a by-product of pan-boiled soy milk, is sandwiched between buns similar to Beijing’s yin si juan, or “silver thread

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rolls,” and served with lotus seeds on the side. Lui’s remarkable dish of sautéed shelled river shrimps requires a lengthy preparation that involves dipping the prawns in egg white “to add protein and taste,” tossing them in flour, and refrigerating them for hours before frying. “If they’re not coated well, no chef will be able to fry them properly.” Tomatogarlic prawns is another seafood favorite.

Although it involves a much simpler cooking process, it delivers a real taste kick. “The flavor of this dish is very complex,” says Lui. “It’s sweet, sour, savory, and spicy all at once.” The prawns are fried with garlic, ginger, diced onions, and bean curd sauce before ketchup and a touch of salt are added. Vegetarian dishes are never neglected at Jade Orchid. Bean curd rolls, known as “vegetarian duck” in Cantonese, are a classic


PRESENTED BY MACAU FISHERMAN’S WHARF

←← Honey-glazed ham with lotus seed 蜜汁火舫 ← Classic stir-fried egg white with conpoy 经典赛螃蟹

←← Dry-braised prawn in chili sause 干烧明虾 ←

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Bean curd rolls 佛门素鸭

fried appetizer dressed in dark soy sauce for rich flavor. Stir-fried egg whites come in two versions: classic, with dried scallops, and deluxe, with fresh pectens and shrimp. Jade Orchid’s stir-fried egg, however, remains the star of the show. “The Cantonese for this dish means ‘racing with crab,’” the chef explains, “but there’s actually no crab in it.” The name arose because it’s served with a crab vinegar dipping

sauce that gives the dish a taste similar to Shanghai hairy crab. Lui feels honored to get so much helpful feedback from Jade Orchid’s regular customers. “When they’re happy, we’re happy,” he says. His friends in the industry also act as sounding boards for new ideas. “If you have a group of like-minded people bouncing around ideas, that’s the best inspiration.”

这就是「玉兰苑」道地菜式独到之处。 举例来说,传统的蜜汁火舫是上海名菜, 亦正正展现出料理不断适应不同地区口味 而变化的过程。总厨说 : 「在上海,它是一 块厚实的火腿,我认为太过油腻。住在台 湾的上海移民将它改良成薄切的版本,称 作豪华蜜汁火舫。」总厨把这个改良版引进 香港,再进一步微调,把火腿烫过以后切 成薄块,接着清蒸,以逼出多余的盐分。 之后,再放到蜂蜜冰糖糖浆中腌制,接着 再蒸一次,确保火腿吸收到糖浆的香甜。 最后,搭配豆浆煮滚时析出的副产物豆皮 并炸脆,一起夹在类似北京「银丝卷」的 面皮中,旁边摆上莲子即可上桌。 总厨的清炒虾仁相对之下则比较遵循 古法。这道菜的制作过程相当费时费工, 需要把虾仁先蘸上蛋白,增加一些蛋白的 营养与香气,再丢进面粉里裹一裹,接着 放进冰箱冰上好几个小时才能拿去炒。总 厨说 : 「如果面衣裹得不到位,多厉害的厨 师都炒不出一盘像样的炒虾仁。」另一道受 欢迎的海鲜料理干烧明虾则没有那么繁杂 的料理步骤,却同样能为顾客带给味蕾的 冲击。总厨解释: 「这道菜的味道包罗万象, 既甜、又酸、带咸又有点呛辣。」明虾与大 蒜、姜、洋葱丁还有豆瓣酱一起炸成,最 后再加上西红杮酱与少许盐巴就完成了。 「玉兰苑」也没有忽视素食者的需求。 粤语称为佛门素鸭的豆腐卷,是一道非常 经典的酥炸开胃菜,表面更淋上黑酱油增 添风味。另一道菜赛螃蟹又分为经典版与 豪华版,经典版搭配干贝,豪华版则加上 新鲜扇贝与鲜虾。「玉兰苑」的赛螃蟹一直 都是顾客的瞩目焦点。总厨解释 : 「这道菜 名的广东话意思是『与螃蟹赛跑』,但是整 道菜根本没有一丁点螃蟹。」名字的由来是 因为这道菜的蘸酱是螃蟹醋,蘸了以后吃 起来就有上海大闸蟹的风味。 对于能得到「玉兰苑」常客的反馈意见, 总厨感到非常荣幸。他说 : 「顾客快乐,所 以我们快乐。」他的一些业界朋友也经常扮 演他新菜式的白老鼠。吕总厨表示 : 「有一 群志同道合的朋友一起交流构想,那就是 最棒的灵感泉源。」 a land between

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PRESENTED BY WOOLOOMOOLOO GROUP

牛排新境界

raising the steaks With fresh décor and an exciting new menu, Hong Kong’s Wooloomooloo Prime takes fine dining to the next level.

“WE TRY TO DO SOMETHING DIFFERENT,”

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Dry-aged, bone-in tenderloin from John Stone Meats, Ireland (395g) 爱尔兰 John Stone 干熟成带骨牛柳 (395克)

「Wooloomooloo Group」餐饮集团行政总 厨 Kim Jong Woo 负责旗下精致餐饮据点 「Wooloomooloo Prime」的营运走向。谈 到餐厅近来的华丽变身,总厨表示 : 「我 们想来点不一样的,带来惊喜之外,也 深具创意。」同时推出的全新菜单一样让 人惊艳,新增多道让人食指大动的美味 料理,供应更加顶级的牛肉部位、精选

生食、精致马铃薯泥,以及不容错过的 经典招牌牛排,鲜美多汁,为众饕客津 津乐道。 香港牛排馆遍地,但「Wooloomooloo Prime」只使用最顶级的食材及产品,提 供独家的美味,这正是餐厅多年来立于 不败之地的关键所在。 以新菜带骨牛柳为例,395 克大份

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says Kim Jong Woo, “something with a twist that’s a bit more creative.” As group development chef at Wooloomooloo Group, Kim helms Wooloomooloo Prime, the company’s fine-dining venue that recently received a sensational interior transformation. With it came an equally sensational new menu featuring an appealing array of additions. Think even more premium cuts, a raw selection, a dedicated potato-purée section, and – of course – those classically succulent steaks that have come to be such a talked-about favorite with diners. Although, says Kim, Hong Kong has plenty of steakhouses, Wooloomooloo Prime sets itself above the competition by insisting on only the highest-tier ingredients, products that in some cases are offered by no other restaurant in the city. Take, for example, the bone-in tenderloin. The new menu’s three-hundred-ninety-fivegram cut comes from John Stone Meats in Ireland. “The beef is grass-fed and dry-aged,” explains Kim, “which means that the meat is far tenderer and more flavorsome.” The steak is seared under a broiler at 1,800°F and served with a selection of four housemade sauces: chimichurri, peppercorn, béarnaise, and red-wine Madeira. By special arrangement with the supplier, the côte de boeuf


Monkey 47 gin and tonic with citrus zest, dried flowers, and blueberries 猴王47琴汤尼配橙皮、干花及蓝莓


PRESENTED BY WOOLOOMOOLOO GROUP

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Pan-seared Hokkaido sea scallops with black pudding, salmon roe, and cauliflower purée 香煎原只北海道带子配血 肠、三文鱼籽及椰菜花蓉

量牛排由爱尔兰 John Stone 直送。总厨说 明其美味所在 : 「草饲牛肉经过熟成,肉质 更为柔嫩,香味加倍。」带骨牛柳放入温度 高达华氏 1,800 度 ( 近摄氏 1,000 度 ) 的烤 箱内炙烧,上桌时奉上阿根廷青酱、胡椒 酱、法式伯纳西酱及马德拉红酒酱等四种 自制沾酱搭配享用。餐厅更有独到本领请 供应商让来自英国 Rhug Estate 的牛肋排熟

成 45 天再交货,熟成期远比其他餐厅的牛 肉来得长。 牛排虽然是餐厅主打,但各式海鲜料 理也让人惊艳。总厨特制的纽西兰国王三 文鱼便是其中代表之一 : 「这种鱼的脂肪非 常优质,不饱和脂肪含量极高,因此这种 鱼在纽西兰及澳洲又有『和牛三文鱼』的 别名。」三文鱼以专业手法炙烧后,搭配以

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cut from Rhug Estate, UK, is dry-aged forty-five days, longer than for any other restaurant. While steaks reign supreme at Wooloomooloo Prime, seafood dishes play starring roles all their own. The chef ’s New Zealand king salmon is one especially notable standout. “In New Zealand and Australia they call this ‘wagyu salmon,’ because it has so much flavorful good fat – unsaturated fat.” The fish is expertly pan-seared and accompanied by a homemade salsa of olives, capsicum, onions, celery, and tomatoes, which have been blanched and marinated with olive oil and sherry vinegar. “The salsa is a wonderfully zesty contrast to the richness of the salmon.” Also drawing raves are the Hokkaido sea scallops served with black pudding, salmon roe, and cauliflower purée. “A scallop dish always works well with some type of pork flavor, and that’s why I chose black pudding,” says Kim. The seafood is pan-seared and the black pudding is pan-fried until slightly crispy and then finished in the oven. Wooloomooloo Prime’s meticulous attention to detail is also evident in the restaurant’s imaginative drinks menu. In its new craft gin section, guests will discover a gin and tonic made with Monkey 47, a German label containing a complex harmony of forty-seven botanicals. According to general manager Max Rhodes, who is the creative force behind the cocktail lists for the Wooloomooloo Group’s restaurants, the brand is “generally regarded as one of the best gins in the world.” Citrus zest, dried flowers, and blueberries give the cocktail extra dimensions. “It has some sweet, some sour, and a floral element that accentuate the flavor of the gin rather than masking it. We serve our drink Spanish style in an oversized balloon glass, and guests always find it something far beyond a simple gin and tonic.”


Pan-seared New Zealand king salmon with crab meat, spring onion and tomato raisin salsa 香煎纽西兰三文鱼柳配蟹肉、 香葱及蕃茄提子莎莎

橄榄油及雪莉醋调味的橄榄、辣椒、洋葱、 西洋芹及蕃茄莎莎酱上桌,味道均衡,相 当诱人。总厨表示 : 「莎莎酱的绝佳风味恰 与三文鱼的丰盈口感形成强烈对比。」 同样令人赞不绝口的还有香煎原只北 海道带子配血肠、三文鱼籽及椰菜花蓉。 总厨表示 : 「带子可以选些猪肉搭配,味道 很合,所以我们才挑了血肠入菜。」海鲜放

平底锅炙烧,血肠则煎至稍微酥脆后放烤 箱过烤。 「Wooloomooloo Prime」对各式细节的 讲究也反映在餐厅天马行空的酒单上,客 人可在全新手工琴酒调酒品项中找到一款 琴汤尼。这款琴汤尼的基酒是使用 47 种 草本植物酿制、风味繁复且和谐的德国琴 酒 猴 王 47 (Monkey 47)。「Wooloomooloo

Group」总经理 Max Rhodes 是旗下餐厅创 意鸡尾酒单的推手。他指出 Monkey 47 是 「全球最佳琴酒之一」,搭配橙皮、干花及 蓝莓,让鸡尾酒的层次更加丰富。Max 认 为: 「味道甜中带酸,花香有助突显琴酒的 味道,不会喧宾夺主。调酒走西班牙风格, 盛于大白兰地杯,宾客总能发现这款调酒 的滋味远胜一般琴汤尼。」 a land between

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PRESENTED BY GOURMET DINING GROUP

料理如诗

the poetry of taste Inspired by the serenity of nature, Arbor’s imaginative young chef creates innovative French food with a Japanese influence.

“ARBOR IS UNLIKE any other dining experi-

ence in Hong Kong,” says Eric Räty, chef de cuisine of a restaurant that recently opened to rave reviews. A Finnish native who is only twenty-nine, Räty draws on a Michelin-star background, contemporary French technique, and a passion for Japanese ingredients when designing his unique tasting menus

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that put emphasis on freshness and always allow natural flavors to speak for themselves. A deep connection to nature begins with the restaurant’s name, evoking the tranquility of sheltering branches, and extends to the interiors by top firm Yabu Pushelberg, who conceived their design as the forest home of a poet and a cook. The thoroughly seasonal

nature of Räty’s food continues the link, uniting his menus with the recurring cycles of nature. Part of what sets Arbor apart is the sense of discovery that diners experience. Singleword dish titles, such as Langoustine, convey Räty’s concentrated expression of the essential nature of a starring ingredient. In this case, langoustine from Iceland’s pristine waters is quickly seared on a Japanese charcoal grill, imparting smokiness while keeping the inside raw. It is served with Japanese tomato water, Japanese vinegar, and kombu prepared in a stock of Guinness, licorice root, brown sugar, cassis berries, and shiitake mushrooms. The result is a studied harmony of sweet, sour, and umami. “The diner will experience many layers at once,”


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notes Räty. “A pleasurable texture and an underlying umami quality keep the palate intrigued with each bite.” Another of Räty’s complex flavor arrays is a dessert named Soy Milk, inspired by the taste of salted caramel and centering around soy. It features crispy bean curd sheet, tofu-and-soymilk ice cream, roasted white chocolate, candied black soy beans, and housemade salted duck egg yolk for savory richness. Although they may be taken aback at first by the combination, Räty finds that guests are very pleasantly surprised. Completing a memorable dining experience at Arbor is an outstanding wine list and a cellar of more than seventeen hundred bottles.

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Chef de Cuisine

Langoustine

Soy Milk

Eric Räty

冰岛海螯虾

豆浆

「我们与香港其他餐厅截然不同。」好评如 潮的「Arbor」餐厅主厨 Eric Räty 说。年仅 29 岁的 Eric 来自芬兰。在每次设计独特菜 单时,他总是善用自身米其林星级厨师的 背景,配合现代法式烹饪技术,加上对日 式食材的热爱,让食材的新鲜度成为焦点, 令食材散发天然滋味。 餐 厅 名 称「Arbor」 令 人 想 起 遮 风 挡 雨 的 大 树, 内 部 则 由 顶 尖 设 计 公 司 Yabu Pushelberg 负责,将室内装潢得犹如诗人 与厨师的森林小屋,处处可见与大自然密 不可分的元素。Eric 的料理全部采用当季 食材,遵循自然循环,更呼应餐厅主题。 另一个「Arbor」出类拔萃的特质是让 顾客在用餐过程中体验探索的感觉。单一 个词的菜名,例如「冰岛海螫虾」,充份表 达 Eric 想突显料理主要材料的意图。以这 道菜来说,将生长在冰岛纯净水源的海螫

虾,置于日式木炭烤炉上快速香煎,让烟 熏香气充满整块虾肉,同时保持内部依然 是生肉状态,上桌时佐以日本番茄水、日 本醋、经健力士啤酒高汤熬煮的昆布、甘 草根、黑糖、黑醋栗果以及香菇。这道精 心设计的料理呈现的是甜、酸、鲜的完美 交响曲。Eric 说 : 「顾客可尝到多层次的风 味,美妙的口感配上洋溢的鲜甜滋味,令 人不禁一口接一口。」 另一道富有层次的甜点「豆浆」,受到 咸焦糖风味所启发,以黄豆为主题。香脆 的豆皮,配上豆腐豆浆冰淇淋、烤白巧克 力、糖渍黑豆,还有提升口味丰富度的自 制咸鸭蛋黄。虽然乍看是个异想天开的组 合,顾客却常常为它的美味感到意外。 「Arbor」酒窖内拥有超过 1700 瓶的香 醇美酒,提供首屈一指的酒单,使顾客难 忘的美食之旅圆满落幕。 a land between

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PRESENTED BY DINING CONCEPTS

caption 或

美梦常新

lasting dream The timeless flavors of classic Indian cuisine have made Bombay Dreams a Hong Kong tradition.

Mirch Baingan Ka Salan: 海得拉巴煨茄子


DAVID HARTUNG (3)

Sandip Gupta

Adark Ka Panje

Executive Director, Dining Concepts

香料窑烤羔羊排

THE OPENING OF BOMBAY DREAMS in 2002 was the beginning of what was to become Dining Concepts, the dynamic Hong Kong F&B group that now has thirty esteemed names in its portfolio. The sixteenth anniversary of the restaurant later this year marks an outstanding accomplishment in a fiercely competitive environment, one that places Bombay Dreams firmly in the realm of culinary legend. Listed by Bib Gourmand, the restaurant has a special place in the heart of Dining Concepts’ executive director, Sandip Gupta. “Had it not been so successful,” he says, “we wouldn’t be where we are today.” Dining Concepts is widely noted for the glittering roster of celebrity chefs it enlists, and it first developed this trademark collaborative style at Bombay Dreams. When the restaurant moved to its current location in 2010, a decision was made to take the cuisine to a new level, with renowned chef Irshad Ahmed Qureshi coming onboard as culinary consultant. He brought with him a depth of knowledge that is the legacy of seven generations of masters going back to the royal chefs of sultans and Mughal kings. Beginning with imported spices that are handpicked, delivered whole, and ground daily, the authenticity of Bombay Dreams’ cuisine – and the master craftsmanship behind it – is evident in every Qureshi offering. The restaurant’s popular signature, Adark Ka Panje, is an extraordinary dish with an intense ginger subtext. Tender lamb chops are twice marinated and then gently baked in a traditional tandoor. Another favored specialty is Tandoori Nisha, featuring twice-marinated jumbo prawns served with a hauntingly fragrant mint chutney. Bombay Dreams is known as well for its standout Lucknowi Gosht Biryani, a time-honored labor of love. Layers of spiced lamb and aromatic saffron rice are slow-cooked with a rich touch of cream. “The story of Bombay Dreams and its success since its opening is one of a dream coming true,” says Gupta, who continues to visit the restaurant every morning for tea. “It’s also the story of building a loyal community of diners that’s like a family. Some of our regulars are now third generation. It’s been an incredible achievement and a very special journey.”

香 港 首 屈 一 指 的 餐 饮 集 团「Dining Concepts」 旗 下 有 30 间 餐 厅, 每 一 间 均 享 负 盛 名,2002 年 开 业 的「Bombay

Dreams」更是集团引以为傲的创业作。餐厅在竞争激烈的 餐饮界中历经 16 年屹立不摇,成绩斐然,带有浓浓的传奇 色彩。在「Dining Concepts」执行董事 Sandip Gupta 心中, 名列米其林「必比登推介」名单的「Bombay Dreams」始 终占一席之地,他说 : 「没有餐厅的亮眼成绩,就没有今天 的我们。 」 「Dining Concepts」 以 旗 下 一 系 列 明 星 主 厨 闻 名, 「Bombay Dreams」正是其独树一帜运作风格的原点。餐厅

2010 年搬到现址时,集团招揽了知名主厨 Irshad Ahmed Qureshi 担任餐饮顾问,要将料理提升至全新境界。Irshad Ahmed 出身料理世家,家族七代为蒙卧儿帝国及苏丹国王 的御厨,承袭博大精深的烹饪传统及知识。 「Bombay Dreams」的进口香料均为手工摘采、整株 进货、当日新鲜现磨,Irshad Ahmed 的每一道菜均展露道 地的印度风味及背后炉火纯青的烹调技巧。招牌菜特制羔 羊排 Adark Ka Panje 彻底发挥姜黄的浓厚风味 :柔嫩的羔 羊排经两道腌渍手续后放进传统烤炉 tandoori 细火烘烤。 另一道人气料理烤明虾 Tandoori Nisha :腌渍两次后的硕大 明虾,搭配香气四溢的印度薄荷甜酸酱更加够味。 「Bombay

Dreams」另一道有名的美味料理便是历史悠久、做工繁复 的羊肉炖饭 Lucknowi Gosht Biryani :经香料调味的羊肉及 香味扑鼻的番红花饭层层叠起后文火炖煮,最后加上丰盈 的奶油,令人食指大动。

Sandip 每天都来「Bombay Dreams」报到,享受早茶 时光。他表示 : 「 『Bombay Dreams』的成功故事犹如美梦 成真,也是一段凝聚饕客之旅,我们的关系紧密得像家人 一般。有些常客都已经是第三代了,这是一份不可思议的 成绩,也是一段非常特别的旅程。 」 a land between

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Li Yuet Faat 李悦发


PRESENTED BY CORDIS, HONG KONG

Stir-fried lobster, spring onion, red onion, and shallot 三葱爆龙虾球

厨界之星

culinary luminary

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Ming Court’s recently appointed executive chef adds new luster to the renowned restaurant’s Michelin-star status.

HOW DOES A MASTER CHEF become a star chef? In the case of Li Yuet Faat, Executive Chef, Chinese Cuisine, Cordis, Hong Kong, the answer is by the patient pursuit of perfection. With over twenty years’ experience, including thirteen at Ming Court, Li has

mastered every aspect of the Chinese kitchen. Now at the helm of the hotel’s signature Cantonese restaurant and of Cordis, Hong Kong’s demanding Chinese banquet operations, Li is making his mark by creating new dishes, refining the classics, and introducing more

厨艺大师如何变身成明星主厨?提到香港 康得思酒店中菜行政总厨李悦发,答案肯 定是对于完美持之以恒的追求。 李总厨的 20 年厨师生涯中,大约 13 年时间待在「明阁」,精通中式厨房内每 项小细节。总厨身居高位,负责监督招牌 粤菜餐厅以及酒店中式筵席的日常运作, a land between

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Barbecued supreme pork loin with honey 至尊蜜汁叉烧

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PRESENTED BY CORDIS, HONG KONG

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Sweet-and-sour pork 咕噜肉

同时大刀阔斧添加新菜式,并将经典名菜 精致化,更强调健康意识。总厨说 : 「我要 保证送到桌上的每道菜都无懈可击,只要 有一丁点缺失,我也不会让它离开厨房。」 由于总厨对完美的坚持,食材也必须 同步升级,其中包括广受喜爱的烤肉料理 叉烧。总厨坚持使用最顶级的猪肩肉,并 只 取 中 心 部 分, 确 保 每 一 块 肉 皆 软 嫩 厚 实,每一口都带有浓烈的香气、丰富的层 次和极佳的口感。总厨表示 : 「我们的卤

汁也是独家秘方,使用超过 20 种材料才 能做出如此与众不同的滋味。」 总厨的厨师哲学可从顾客品尝的每道 菜看出端倪,若要归纳成一句话,那应该 是「 沒 有最好,只有更好」。总厨的精湛 厨艺充分展现在其中一道同样用上顶尖猪 肩肉制成的招牌菜咕噜肉上,这道菜遵循 传统做法,但总厨巧手加入自己的创意, 用上特别的苹果醋,添加一丝山楂的甘甜, 以打造别处难寻的美味。

health-conscious Cantonese specialties. “My job is to make sure that everything we serve to our guests is perfection on a plate,” says Li, “and if it isn’t, it doesn’t leave the kitchen.” His drive for excellence has led to some ingredient enhancements, as in the case of char siu, the popular dish of barbecued pork. The chef insists on the very highest quality pork shoulder – and only the center part of the cut – to ensure a tender, rich result with flavor complexity and exceptional mouthfeel. “We also use a secret recipe for the marinade,” notes Li. “with more than twenty ingredients that make all the difference in the end result.” Li’s philosophy, which guests can taste in every offering, can be summed up as “the best of the best.” His consummate skills are on display in a traditional favorite, sweetand-sour pork, also made from the best shoulder cut. It’s classic in style but has the chef ’s own creative touches, like a special apple cider vinegar that is more flavorful and a note of hawthorn berry for sweetness. Another signature is stir-fried lobster with spring onion, red onion, and shallot. Australian lobster is selected live from the tank for freshness of flavor not achievable with chilled lobster. Three varieties of onion lend a subtle harmony. “The lobster is mild,” says Li, “but the onions intensify the taste and add richness and depth.” “Every one of these dishes requires the finest ingredients available,” says Li, “but also the kind of technical mastery that reaches perfection every time.”

另一道总厨精心炮制的菜式是三葱爆 龙虾球:新鲜澳洲龙虾从水缸中现捞现煮, 带来雪藏龙虾无可比拟的鲜味。 大葱、红洋葱和干葱的味道巧妙地融 合,总厨表示 : 「龙虾的味道较清淡,与 三葱搭配得天衣无缝,让味道升华,层次 更丰富。」 总厨总结道 : 「要烧好这几道菜,除 了顶级食材之外,无可挑剔的烹饪技术更 是不可或缺。」 a land between

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极地协奏曲

arctic harmony Two enterprising gin lovers capture the essence of the Finnish forest in a bottle. BY ANDREA LO

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

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PRESENTED BY ARCTIC BLUE

Mikko Spoof and Kimmo Koivikko

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PRESENTED BY ARCTIC BLUE

FINNISH NATIVES Kimmo Koivikko and Mikko Spoof were already seasoned pros in the beverage industry when they resolved in 2016 to create something unique. “We’re both gin enthusiasts,” says Spoof, “and we realized there was no gin with a heritage

connected to the territory where it’s made, where its ingredients come from. A light bulb went off: ‘What if we put Finnish nature in a bottle?’” Spoof explains that Finnish forests are teeming with bilberries and shrub needles,

Breaking Ice

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“the perfect combination,” he says, for a unique aroma profile. “We Finns live on top of a goldmine,” adds Koivikko, “surrounded by berries.” Inspired by this bounty, the two began their quest to capture the forest’s essence. The result of their efforts is Arctic Blue Gin, whose name reflects both the gin’s origins and the color of the native berries and whose slogan is equally apt: “Experience the harmony of Arctic nature.” Preserving the forest’s evanescent bouquet wasn’t easy. It took about a year and a half for the product – a proprietary formula of fewer than ten ingredients – to go from concept to bottle. Finnish master distiller Asko Ryynänen came onboard and supervised 128 distillations before the founders deemed the results perfect. The team developed its own secret distillation method after finding the standard chill-filtering process inferior: “It removes all those delicate aromas we want to capture,” says Spoof. When he and Koivikko first came up with the concept, they realized they needed an expert to help them bring it to life. They reached out to chef Jaakko Sorsa, a Helsinki native who for thirteen years has helmed Hong Kong’s only Nordic restaurant, FINDS. “It’s everyone’s dream to be involved in a project like this,” says Sorsa, who admits to being a gin fanatic. “I also love vodka, but I think gin is much more interesting and mysterious, because it reveals so many different flavors.” Sorsa knew the dewy and mystical scent of the Finnish forest quite well: “It’s always potent, but especially right after the rain.” When the three met up in Hong Kong, they all agreed that bilberries would be the ideal ingredient to feature. “There are all kinds of secret ingredients,” says Sorsa, “but the basic idea is that it’s everything about the forest – spruce needles, pine, juniper, and bilberries.” The chef created three Arctic Blue Gin cocktails: Avanto, Forest Love, and Green Salad. Avanto, meaning “a hole in the ice” in Finnish, was inspired by the chef ’s “absolute favorite activity” back home: walking on


Antonio Lai

Kimmo Koivikko 及 Mikko Spoof 两 位 芬 兰 当地酒业界老将于 2016 年结盟,决心一起 打造独一无二的产品。Mikko 表示 : 「我们 两人都对琴酒情有独钟,却从没见过与原 产地域特色相关,或主打原料生产地的琴 酒产品,因此灵机一动 :何不将芬兰的大 自然浓缩于酒瓶当中呢?」 Mikko 说,芬兰森林里眼见所及的都 是山桑子及灌木针叶,简直就是「打造独 特风味的绝佳组合」 。Kimmo 补充形容: 「芬 兰人被各式浆果包围,就像生活在金矿里 一般。 」身处这大自然的馈赠之中,两人因 而受到启发,开始探索如何呈现森林的精 髓所在,随之酝酿出心血结晶 Arctic Blue 琴酒。这款佳酿的名字除了代表琴酒来由 之外,也是当地浆果的颜色,宣传标语同 样贴切 :体验极圈的自然和谐之美。 保留森林细致的韵味并非易事,近十 种配方组成的风味琴酒,从概念发想到装 瓶制作要花上近一年半的时间。芬兰酿酒 大厂 Asko Ryynänen 后来也加入合作行列, 负责监督生产 128 瓶琴酒,随后还要创办

人点头确认成品是否已经完美。团队还开 发出不外传的独家蒸馏法。Mikko 认为一 般标准冷凝过滤法有所不足,会让细致香 味在过程中流失。 当计划萌芽,两人就意识到还差一位 专家才能让概念付诸实现。他们找上的是 赫 尔 辛 基 出 身、 主 导 香 港 唯 一 北 欧 餐 厅 「FINDS」13 年 的 大 厨 Jaakko Sorsa。 对 于能成为团队一员,身为琴酒狂热份子的 Jaakko 表示 : 「这是每个人的梦想。我也爱 伏特加,但琴酒比较有趣,又有种神秘感, 可以带出许多不同的味道。」 Jaakko 对芬兰森林那种清新、引人入 胜的神秘风味了若指掌 : 「一进入森林便会 扑鼻而来,雨后更是明显。」三人在香港会 面时,一致同意山桑子就是最具特色的理 想原料。Jaakko 表示 : 「秘密原料有很多, 但基本概念是以森林里的一切为主,比如 云杉针叶、松树、杜松及山桑子等。」 大厨打造了三款 Arctic Blue 琴酒调酒: Avanto、Forest Love 及 Green Salad。 芬 兰 语 Avano 指冰里的洞,灵感来自 Jaakko 自

己在家时「最喜欢的活动」:在大晴天去海 冰上散步。他说 : 「这款调酒有如顺着上端 回圈而下,直探结冻的海中。」Avano 将顶 级汤尼胶切成块状,放入盛好琴酒的小型 老式岩杯中,再淋上顶级汤尼水,最后缀 以接骨木花、莱姆泡沫及干燥山桑子上桌。 Forest Love 意在突显琴酒的各式天然 风味,这有赖前来助兴的「林中好友」,包 括越橘、干燥山桑子、蓝莓、嫩芽、树皮 及云杉提炼的糖浆等。Green Salad 则强调 健康食材,包括小黄瓜、龙蒿、百里香、 莱姆及柠檬草,味道咸甜交杂,与琴酒搭 配得恰到好处。 引领香港调酒文化的 Antonio Lai 与伙 伴共同拥有五间鸡尾酒吧,例如名列世界 最佳 50 间酒吧之一的「Quinary」,以及主 打琴酒的「Origin」,都是香港人的最爱, 因此选他作为 Arctic Blue 琴酒全球品牌大 使再适合不过。他和 Jaakko 认识超过十年, 在 Jaakko 力邀下,他试了试新酒,旋即着 迷不已。Antonio 表示 : 「芬兰来的琴酒屈 指可数,这款 Arctic Blue 琴酒真的很特别。」 a land between

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Arctic Tropics


PRESENTED BY ARCTIC BLUE

the sea ice on a sunny day. “This cocktail,” he says, “is like dipping into the frozen sea through that circle at the top.” The drink is made with a gel of premium tonic cut into shaped cubes and served in a small rocks glass with gin and more premium tonic poured on top. Elderflowers, lime foam, and dehydrated bilberries serve as garnish. Forest Love is all about natural flavors of the gin, “gently supported by forest friends,” such as lingonberries, dehydrated bilberries, blueberries, shoots, tree branches, and a syrup derived from spruce. Green Salad features healthy ingredients, including cucumber, tarragon, thyme, lime, and lemongrass, a mélange of sweet and savory flavors that delightfully complement the gin. It only made sense that Antonio Lai should become global brand ambassador for Arctic Blue Gin. After all, Lai pioneered the mixology culture in Hong Kong, and the five cocktail bars he co-owns – including Quinary, listed among The World’s 50 Best Bars, and gin-focused Origin – are among the best loved in the city. Lai had known Sorsa for over a decade, and when the chef spurred him to try the new spirit, he took an instant liking to it. “There aren’t many gins from Finland, so Arctic Blue Gin is very special.” Like Sorsa, Lai was inspired to create three original cocktails. Breaking Ice features lingonberries, genmaicha tea syrup, and tonic. The berries are muddled, the ingredients are shaken and double-strained into a Chinese ceramic cup, and tonic water is added. “There’s an East-meets-West aesthetic,” he explains. “The cup’s design is inspired by the qipao.” A cap of crushed ice adds a snowy finishing touch. Arctic Tropics also shows Asian influences. “I wanted to combine tropical elements with winter ingredients,” Lai explains. Sea buckthorn berry, with its slightly sour tang, is balanced by pineapple syrup. The berries are muddled in a mixing glass, gin is added, the contents are shaken and double-strained, and crushed ice and dried pineapple top things off. The House of Glass, says Lai, is a twist

Jaakko Sorsa

和 Jaakko 一样,Antonio 也受到了启 发并创作了三款调酒 :Breaking Ice 使用 越橘、玄米茶糖浆及汤尼水。混和浆果后, 加入所有食材摇杯,双重过滤后倒入中 式瓷杯,再加入汤尼水。他解释 : 「这营 造出东西融合的美学,而杯子的设计灵 感则来自旗袍。」最后洒上一层冰屑,营 造出雪地般的质感。 Arctic Tropics 也是极具亚洲风情的 一款调酒。Antonio 说明 : 「我想把热带

元素和冬季食材结合在一起。」带些许酸 呛味的沙棘可用凤梨糖浆中和,调酒杯 内放入沙棘浆果,倒进琴酒后摇杯,双 重过滤,放上碎冰及凤梨干即大功告成。 The House of Glass 则是经典调酒内 格罗尼的变化版 : 「我以班兰糖浆创造绿 色的韵致,犹如洞穴冰壁的色调一般。」 北欧冬日的漫漫长夜正是这款调酒「神 话般的外观」的灵感来源。肯巴利苦酒 及苦艾酒蒸馏至无色后放入调酒杯,与 a land between

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PRESENTED BY ARCTIC BLUE

Green Salad

on the negroni “with a touch of pandan syrup to introduce a hint of green much like the hue of icy cave walls.” The darkness of the Nordic winter, he says, was what motivated a drink with “a mythical appearance.” Campari and vermouth are distilled until colorless and combined with gin, aquavit, and two drops of pandan syrup in a mixing glass. The mixture is stirred, strained into a julep glass, and served with a large ice cube. An LED hidden at the bottom of the glass, a garnish of pandan leaf, and applewood

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Ice Swimming

smoke add drama. “Guests smell the woodiness, which works in harmony with the drink.” Soon after its launch, Arctic Blue Gin became an instant hit, winning double gold at the World Spirits Award 2018, where it was nominated Spirit of the Year. But for the company’s founders, the most rewarding aspects of Arctic Blue Gin will always be its simplicity and purity. “Smoothness is one of its standout qualities,” says Koivikko. “It’s all there – the smoothness, the harmony, the balance.”

琴 酒 及 阿 夸 维 特 烈 酒 混 和, 加 入 两 滴 班 兰糖浆后充分搅拌,过滤后盛于茱利普杯 中,搭配硕大的冰块上桌,藏于酒杯底端 的 LED 灯、装饰用的班兰叶及苹果木熏烟, 更添加了不少戏剧效果。 Arctic Blue 琴 酒 一 推 出 便 大 获 好 评, 于 2018 年世界烈酒大赛夺下两项金奖,更 荣获年度烈酒提名。不过对于两位创办人 来说,这款酒代表的简单及纯粹才是最受 人赞赏的元素。Kimmo 自豪表示 : 「口感 柔顺正是这款酒脱颖而出的特点之一。柔 顺、和谐及平衡,说 Arctic Blue 琴酒集这 些优点于一身也绝不为过。」


游「酒」苏格兰

uncommon senses In The Singleton of Glen Ord Sensorium, a journey of six thousand miles begins with a whiff and a sip.

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PRESENTED BY THE SINGLETON OF GLEN ORD

“The Sensorium really gives you a sense of the place the product comes from. 「感官品酒会」 让人有身历其境 的感觉,一探产 品的原产地。” VICTORIA CHOW, FOUNDER AND MANAGING DIRECTOR OF THE WOODS

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

“THIS WAS ACTUALLY MY FIRST TRIP to Scot-

land,” says Victoria Chow, emerging from The Singleton of Glen Ord Sensorium. As founder and managing director of The Woods craft cocktail bar and The Woods Annex, its sister tasting room and artisanal spirits library, Chow was among a select group of VIPs invited to attend an exclusive preview of the fully immersive, multi-sensory whisky-tasting experience. Transporting them around the world to the Black Isle in the Scottish Highlands, the Sensorium guided them on a panoramic virtual tour, complete with the sights, the sounds, and even the scents of Glen Ord Distillery. “We need three things to produce Scotch whisky,” says global brand ambassador Ervin Trykowski in beginning the session, “water, barley, and yeast.” Since water for The Singleton of Glen Ord can only mean that sourced from the White Burn, the journey necessarily begins on the snowy shores of Loch nam Bonnach, one of two lakes that feed into the cold, clear river. With the sound of a whistling gale accompanying the 360-degree video projection, Trykowski asks for first impressions from an initial nosing of The Singleton of Glen Ord 12 Years Old. It’s no surprise when one guest, influenced no doubt by the ambient effects, reports that she smells snow. Others

Victoria Chow 是「The Woods」手工调酒酒 吧及其姊妹品酒室暨手工精酿图书馆「The Woods Annex」的创办人兼营运总监,她表 示: 「这是我第一次到访苏格兰。 」她与其 他被选定的贵宾一同参与这个有如亲临其 境、刺激五感的威士忌品鉴会。来自世界 各地的贵客们齐集苏格兰高地的布莱克岛, 踏上一段全景虚拟旅程,感受视觉、听觉, 甚至是气味的全方位冲击,彷如置身酿酒 厂现场。 虚 拟 旅 程 伊 始, 全 球 品 牌 大 使 Ervin Trykowskiin 讲解 : 「苏格兰威士忌有三大生 产原料,即水、大麦及酵母。苏格登威士 忌萃取 White Burn 高山源泉制作而成,因 此这旅程当然要以两大高山湖泊之一的冷 彻河水源头 Loch nam Bonnach 作为起点。 」 在强风呼啸声及 360 度投影环绕之下, Ervin 引导贵宾通过嗅觉感受 12 年份 The Singleton of Glen Ord,并询问他们对这款佳 酿的第一印象。有位女士显然深受周遭气 氛所感染,表示嗅到雪的味道,亦有其他 贵宾表示闻到了木头、蜂蜜及香料等的味 道。回答相当五花八门又随机,但想来其 实合情合理,实属意料之内。 Ervin 解释,此一安排其来有自,旨在 强调每个人的嗅觉都是独一无二,客观之 余又充满主观意识。他认为 : 「你觉得辛 辣,但我可能尝到果味,一旦点出其独特 性,该气味旋即又会扑鼻而来。 」接着他请 宾客想像一把刀划过清脆的青苹果切片画 面,同时再闻一次威士忌。 A LAND BETWEEN | TK |

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“Everyone’s taste and scent receptors are different and individual, but when something is planted in people’s minds, it’s like, ‘Ah, yes!’ 每个人的味觉及嗅觉受器都不同,存在细微的差异。 适时于脑中植入讯息,会让人有恍然大悟的感觉。” SHANE OSBORN, CHEF PATRON OF ARCANE

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chime in with wood, honey, and spices. The variety of responses is unscripted yet fairly predictable. “The reason we do this,” Trykowski explains, “is to show that the sense of smell is unique – it’s both objective and subjective. What’s spicy to you might be fruity to me, but as soon as I mention something specific, that’s all you’re going to smell.” He directs the guests to nose the whisky again, this time conjuring up an image of a knife slicing into a crisp green apple. For Shane Osborn, chef patron of Arcane, the effect is immediate. While originally he’d picked up notes of dark caramel, after the prompt, he settled on caramelized apple. “Everyone’s taste and scent receptors are different and individual,” he says, “but when something is planted in people’s minds, it’s like, ‘Ah, yes!’ The aromas in whisky are so complex that it helps to have suggestions to be able to pick them out.” Minutes later, surrounded by images of the malting room and enveloped in the scent of McVitie’s oatmeal biscuits, guests are encouraged to touch, smell, and taste a few grains of malted barley before nosing and tasting the whisky a final time. Immediately, a startling, pronounced aroma of sweet cereal is detected. For Tony Leung, owner of Bar Ginger, the special moment came when The Singleton of Glen Ord 15 Years Old was paired with a bit of candied ginger. “After I tasted it, the whisky became much spicier,” he says, “but in the finish, there was also a bit of saltiness. Glen Ord Distillery is quite close to the sea, so there could be some salt in the whisky that you normally wouldn’t notice. After the ginger, I suddenly found it there.” For Leung and Chow, who regularly hold tastings and workshops at their bars, the Sensorium experience proved to be a thought-provoking and enlightening exploration of The Singleton of Glen Ord brand. “The Sensorium really gives you a sense of the place the product comes from,” says Chow. “Seeing the facilities, feeling the atmosphere, and hearing the stories give you a new level of appreciation for the whisky.”

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

PRESENTED BY THE SINGLETON OF GLEN ORD


“ Glen Ord Distillery is quite close to the sea, so there could be some salt in the whisky that you normally wouldn’t notice. Glen Ord 酒庄离海边不远,酒里带有平时没注意的咸味。有了姜,咸味就跳出来了。” TONY LEUNG, OWNER OF BAR GINGER

对知名餐厅「Arcane」大厨 Shane Osborn 来说,此效果来得又快又明显,立刻 打翻他原本认定的黑焦糖味,取而代之的 是焦糖苹果味。他分享 : 「每个人的味觉及 嗅觉器官都是独特的。但当人们受到点拨, 就会有恍然大悟的感觉。威士忌风味真的 很复杂,有人在旁稍加提醒,辨识品评起 来也会容易得多。 」 几分钟后,眼见所及尽是麦芽制作室 影像,空气中弥漫着「麦维他」燕麦消化

饼香气。这时,Ervin 鼓励宾客用手触摸、 闻闻看,甚至吃个几颗大麦麦芽,然后再 最后一次闻嗅品尝威士忌。随即,有贵宾 就说感受到了明显的麦片甜味。 「Bar Ginger」老板 Tony Leung 则表示, 将 15 年 份 The Singleton of Glen Ord 搭 配 甜姜品尝的感觉非常奇妙。他说 : 「入口后, 威士忌口味变得辣呛,但最后却以些许咸 韵收尾。酒庄很近海边,酒里带有平时没 注意到的咸味。有了姜,咸味就跳出来了。 」

对于定期在自己酒吧举办品酒会及 工 作 坊 的 Tony 及 Victoria 两 人 来 说, 此 次「 感 官 品 酒 会 」 着 实 让 他 们 对 于 The Singleton of Glen Ord 威士忌有更进一步 的认识,带来新的刺激及体悟。 Victoria 形容 : 「『感官品酒会』让人有身历其境的 感觉,仿似亲身一探产品的原产地。看到 酿酒设施、感受在地气氛、亲耳听到各种 故事,可让人从全新的角度再次赞叹威士 忌的奥妙。」 A LAND BETWEEN | TK |

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EVENT

大师汇聚

masters in macau France’s most distinguished culinary society, at its first world congress ever held in Asia, honors a master.

JOËL ROBUCHON is the internationally acclaimed French chef and powerhouse restaurateur who revolutionized Macau’s gastronomic scene seventeen years ago with the opening of what was to become today’s iconic, three-Michelin-star Robuchon au Dôme. And so it was highly appropriate that the organization representing the heights of French cuisine around the world, in naming

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him the first recipient of its new annual award, should present it in the city he helped launch on the path toward its current status as a global dining destination. The new honor, MCF Chef of the Year Award (Asia Pacific), is bestowed by Maîtres Cuisiniers de France, the esteemed society of French master chefs founded in 1949 “to preserve and spread the French culinary arts,

encourage training in cuisine, and assist professional development.” It includes among its exclusive membership a high proportion of leading chefs from Michelin-starred restaurants, recipients of the prestigious title of Un des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (“one of the best craftsmen of France”), and winners of high-profile culinary competitions. Recognizing the growing stature of the Asia Pacific culinary world, the society chose to hold its annual worldwide meeting in Asia for the first time, convening the MCF World Congress 2018 in Macau from March 11 to 13, with an optional tour of Beijing before the event and of Hong Kong afterward. Robuchon accepted the award at the congress’s climactic gala, held at Studio City’s ballroom on March 12. Officiating were MCF’s Worldwide President Christian


DAVID HARTUNG (4)

Tetedoie and Asia Pacific President Fabrice Vulin, executive chef of Macau’s renowned The Tasting Room. The presentation included a silver loving cup and a porcelain plate custom designed for the occasion by Safran Paris, distributors and makers of fine tableware, who will create an original plate for the event each year. What would a gala assembly of master chefs have been without a twelve-course gourmet feast? The menu, appropriately Chinese-themed, began with roast suckling pig paraded in ceremoniously and accompanied by a Chinese drum perfomance. Nominations for next year’s award will be entertained on May 21, with the winner to be selected by a jury of top chefs, editors of leading F&B magazines, and representatives from key MCF sponsors in the Asia Pacific region.

Joël Robuchon 既是享誉国际的法国名厨, 也是极具影响力的餐饮大亨。十七年前, 他为澳门餐饮界带来一场变革。 时至今 日,当时由 Joël 开设的米其林三星餐厅 「天 巢法国餐厅」已成为澳门地标。 Joël 曾助力澳门逐步成为环球美食之 都。如今,法国料理最高荣誉机构钦定他 为最新年度大奖的首位获奖者,又在这座 城市举办颁奖典礼,可谓再适合不过了。 2018 年度大厨(亚太地区)是新设立 的奖项,由法国烹饪大师协会颁发。地位 显赫的法国烹饪大师协会成立于 1949 年。 此协会宗旨是「继承与发扬法式厨艺,推 广专业培训,协助人才培育」 。协会会员 均大有来头,多是米其林餐厅主厨、法国 最佳工艺师头衔得主以及各大烹饪比赛 的常胜军。 随着亚太地区餐饮界渐受瞩目,协会 决定首度将年度国际盛会移师澳门,并于

3 月 11-13 日举办 2018 年法国烹饪大师 大会。与会者还可选择于会前游览北京和 会后造访香港。 3 月 12 日,在新濠影汇宴会厅的晚宴 上, 协 会 向 Joël Robuchon 颁 发 了 奖 项。 活动由法国烹饪大师协会会长 Christian Tetedoie 和亚太区分会长暨澳门「御膳房」 行政总厨 Fabrice Vulin 联袂主持。晚宴采 用的餐具更是不同凡响, 除了精巧的银杯, 还有制造高级餐具经销商 Safran Paris 专 为此次盛会设计的瓷盘,样式别出心裁。 晚宴众星云集,星光熠熠,当然必得 搭配多达十二道菜式的丰富盛宴。菜单设 计颇富巧思,以中国风为主题,烤乳猪隆 重登场打头阵,更有中式击鼓表演佐餐。 明年提名人选将于 5 月 21 日出炉。随后, 由顶尖名厨、餐饮杂志编辑与法国烹饪大 师协会亚太区主要赞助商代表组成的评 审团将共同选出获奖者。 a land between

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RESTAURANT LISTINGS Alsancak Dostlar Fırını 5

Boyoz Kıbrıs Şehitleri Caddesi No:120 Alsancak, Izmir, Turkey

Foodgears Industrial

The Manor 雅舍

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Arbor 5

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Innovative French 25/F, H Queen’s, 80 Queen’s Road, Central, Hong Kong

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Authentic Cantonese Level 6, Cordis, 555 Shanghai

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Papa Theo-man’s Healthy Turkish Food 5

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The Sultan’s Table 5

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DESSERT BY XTC GELATO, HONG KONG

THE QUEST FOR DONDURMA 追寻土耳其冰淇淋

HONG KONG GOURMETS dream of it, that famous Turkish take on ice cream known as dondurma , with its unique, almost chewy, texture. Traditionally, it is thickened and flavored with a combination of salep, flour made from the root of the early purple orchid, and mastic, or Arabic gum, a resin exuded by an aromatic Mediterranean tree related to the pistachio. Vendors use a big wooden paddle to churn the mix and at the same time entertain the customers with what resembles a conjuring act. The consistency of dondurma varies in different parts of the country. In some places, it’s so dense it must be cut with a butcher’s knife, and in the region of Kahramanmaraş, it’s routinely eaten with a knife and fork. In Hong Kong, Mustafa Koca of Turkish Kebab Restaurant used to make his own dondurma, but local food and hygiene regulations and licensing requirements proved too challenging. He talked with a friend, who makes it in New Delhi, about opening an outlet here, but the cost turned out to be prohibitive. Georgie Riley, who is the director of XTC Gelato, a Hong Kong–based artisanal producer, was asked many years ago to prepare a Turkish Delight flavor for a client who was entertaining visiting VIPs from Turkey at a leading Hong Kong hotel. “I’m not sure that it would be a favorite with the locals,” she says, “but it was authentic. We did use some Arabic gum, which isn’t easy to work with in Hong Kong’s high humidity. “These days, our Rose Petal flavor is very popular, and we sometimes vary things with Rose Raspberry and Rose Lychee. Another classic is pistachio – some of the best pistachios grow abundantly in Turkey and can be seen in many varieties in the markets of Istanbul. Our Volcanic Pistachio has been on our signature list since the beginning and would easily please Turkish taste buds. The rose petal and pistachio flavors are not authentically Turkish, but rose is one of the main flavorings in Turkish delight and other traditional dishes.”

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TK | a land between

香港老饕们日思夜想的是那风味独具、富有 嚼 劲、 称 之 为 dondurma 的 土 耳 其 冰 淇 淋。 传统的土耳其冰淇淋添加了用红门兰块茎制 成的兰茎粉,以及有阿拉伯口香糖之称的乳 香脂,是一种从近似开心果且会散发香气的 地中海树木萃取的树脂,用以增加黏稠度和 提升味道。卖家会用一根大木板不断搅拌, 同时像变戏法一样逗弄顾客。土耳其国内不 同地区的冰淇淋也有差异,有些地方的坚硬 到得用屠刀来切,而在卡赫拉曼马拉什,人 们向来都用刀叉吃冰淇淋。 在香港经营「Turkish Kebab Restaurant」 的 Mustafa Koca 过去会自制冰淇淋,但由于 当地严苛的饮食卫生法规和执照要求而裹足 不前。之后他和一位在新德里制作土耳其冰 淇淋的朋友讨论在香港开店的可能性,却发 现成本高得吓人。 香 港 工 艺 品 厂 商 XTC Gelato 总 监 Georgie Riley 多年前曾受客户之托,准备一 道土耳其甜点,以在香港某家奢华酒店招待 来自土耳其的贵宾。她说 : 「我没把握当地 人会喜欢,但它非常道地。而且我们确实用 上了乳香脂,香港湿度高,使用起来较为困 难。 」 「如今我们的玫瑰花瓣口 Georgie 表示 : 味最受欢迎,有时我们也会换成玫瑰覆盆子 和玫瑰荔枝口味。另外一种经典食材是开心 果,一些全世界品质最好的开心果就是产自 土耳其,而且在伊斯坦堡的市场上就可以看 到许多不同种类的开心果。我们的火山开心 果从开业之初就一直是招牌,很对土耳其人 的胃口。虽然玫瑰花瓣和开心果并非正宗土 耳其口味,但玫瑰的确是土耳其甜点和许多 传统料理常用的调味料。 」


COURTESY OF XTC GELATO

a land between

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T H E W O R L D ’ S F I R S T D I S T I L L E D N O N -ALCOHOLIC S P I R I T S ‘ WHAT TO DRINK WHEN YO U ’RE NOT DRINKING’

AVA I L A B L E AT: PDT [LANDMARK MANDARIN]

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E M P LOY E E S O N LY

ABERDEEN STREET SO CIAL HK LIQUOR STORE

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P O T AT O H E A D

THE BOT TLE SHOP

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VEA

TK35 A Land Between  

This special issue, A Land Between, represents a broad collaboration between Turkish Airlines, the Turkish Tourism Board, and TK. Its theme...

TK35 A Land Between  

This special issue, A Land Between, represents a broad collaboration between Turkish Airlines, the Turkish Tourism Board, and TK. Its theme...