TK12 Appetite for Art

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T A S T I N G 12

K I T C H E N

A P P E T I T E

F O R

A R T

SHENZHEN

Crown Jewel 璀璨明珠 SCOTLAND Perfect Moment 完美时刻 HONG KONG Edible Picasso 舌尖上的毕加索

DAVID HARTUNG

starter

At Bibo, Executive Chef Mutaro Balde creates a painter’s palette with his colorful Salade Végétarienne. Artichokes, asparagus, beetroot and fig shine in a dressing of fennel seed, garlic, rosemary and truffle. A creamy burrata with a delicate, beautiful flavor adds further freshness to the dish. “I tried ten other burratas before I picked this one,” says Balde. “So many have a tough outer skin – this one has the perfect texture.”

Bibo行政总厨Mutaro Balde制作的蔬食沙拉五彩缤纷，宛如画家的调色盘，拌有朝鲜蓟、芦笋、甜菜根和无花果，佐以茴香籽、 大蒜、迷迭香和松露调成的酱料，让食材在盘中闪闪发亮，随后洒上浓郁味美的意大利布瑞达起司，更加凸显沙拉的新鲜。 Balde表示：「我尝试了十种不同的布瑞达起司，好不容易才挑中这个品牌，很多起司的外层都太硬，这个品牌起司的口感恰到好处。」

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T A S T I N G 12

K I T C H E N

A P P E T I T E

F O R

A R T

Tasting Kitchen www.tasting-kitchen.com 7A, 22/F, Kodak House II, 39 Healthy East Street Quarry Bay, Hong Kong Tel: +852 2642 0008

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

Jeff Hammons

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The beautiful and delicious dish on the cover – beetroot-cured salmon and crispy skin with radish and pomegranate dressing – was prepared

by Chef Marc Briol at the Shenzhen Grand Hyatt’s Belle-Vue Restaurant. Read more about Chef Briol starting on page 98. 在封面上令人垂涎欲滴的美味佳肴﹣甜草根腌制三文鱼配石榴 汁，是由深圳君悦酒店悦景餐厅主厨Marc Briol制作。欲了 解更多关于主厨Briol的故事，请翻阅本刊第98页。 Photo by David Hartung. ©Tasting Kitchen 2014 All rights reserved

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contents

4 S T A R T E R • 12 – 26 T A S T I N G N E W S 28 Four Square Flatware • 30 Pot Art • 32 Artful Spooning • 34 The Luxury of Space 38 Woollaston • 42 Illuminating the Everyday • 46 The Art of the Banquet 52 Confident Cooking • 56. A Journey of Tastes • 60 Mumm at Pierre • 72 Edible Picasso

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66 The Intersection of Art & Cuisine • 80 A Lot on His Plate • 86 Cooking with Art 94 Bouquet of Spring Flowers • 98 Shenzhen’s Crown Jewel • 102 Perfect Moment • 114 Spaniards on Fire 118 Trailblazer • 122 Great Aussie Barbie • 124 Naturally Grown Goodness • 130 Wine We Want to Drink 134 Export Advice from Down Under • 138 Opera Meets East • 144 Street Car: A Story of Design • 148 Team Spirit 154 W H E R E T O F I N D T K • 158 R E S T A U R A N T L I S T I N G S • 160 D E S S E R T

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m å Á ≠ m å Á ≠ m å Á ≠ m å Á ≠ m å Á

m å Á

m å Á ≠ m å Á

publisher’s note

m å Á ≠ A A å Á

A A å Á

A A å Á

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Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.

Chefs were trying to make food taste delicious long before they also strove to make it look beautiful. But in recent years, diners’ demands for a memorable aesthetic as well as gastronomic experience have driven invention both in and outside the kitchen.

This issue of Tasting Kitchen (TK), “Appetite for Art,” is devoted to the region’s leading chef-artists and the restaurants where they work. In the venues we visit, art isn’t found only on diners’ plates; it hangs on the walls and surrounds guests in the form of artfully designed and lit spaces.

Each chef finds his or her own avenue for inspiration. One is guided by the disparate fields of engineering and fashion; another takes his culinary team on field trips to the Louvre and utilizes color theory in his plating; a third creates a menu of dishes inspired by world masterpieces of painting.

We also talk with chefs from several of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, introduce a restaurant inspired by street food and another featuring street art, visit a New Zealand vineyard that carries the name of one of that country’s greatest painters, meet an 18th-century Dutch still life painter, sample inspired banquet dishes in Macau, take a photographic tour of Scotland with one of history’s greatest photographers, and listen to Italian opera accompanied by Chinese instruments.

Enjoy.

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DAVID HARTUNG

MARK HAMMONS

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tasting news

blazing brews

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THERE’S NOT MUCH that can keep up with Aussie artist Brad Blaze, who just may be the fastest portrait painter in the world. Recently he focused his talents on a worthy and equally speedy subject: Nespresso’s new Inissia coffee machine which brews a perfect cup in less than half a minute.

“Like the Inissia, my performances are fast-paced and dynamic,” says Blaze. “Speed painting is all about surprising and delighting your audience – I turn the craft of painting, which people tend to think of as being slow and relaxed – into something vibrant and spectacular!“ In less than two minutes, Blaze drew the sleek outline of the Inissia before lighting a fire at the bottom of the canvas. As it burned it revealed a drawing of a cup of Nespresso coffee, surprising the audience and creating some serious buzz for the caffeine machine.

TK | appetite for art

澳 洲 人 物 画 家 Brad Blaze 作 画 速 度 之 快， 令人望尘莫及，谦称第二大概无人称第一。 不过他最近碰上惺惺相惜的超速对手，得 以尽情挥洒所长 ：那便是能在 30 秒内冲泡 出 完 美 咖 啡 的 Nespresso 新 一 代 [Inissia] 胶囊咖啡机。 「我的表演和「Inissia」的 Blaze 表示 ： 共通点是速度飞快、强而有力。超速画就 是要取悦观众并带来惊喜，人们想到作画， 一般都觉得慢工出细活、要放轻松，但我 颠覆这个概念，把画画变得精彩生动。 」 不到两分钟，Blaze 就以迅雷不及掩 ，再用点火带来 耳的速度画了台「Inissia」 表演最高潮。待火光散去，只见画上多了 杯 Nespresso 咖啡，让现场观众赞叹不已， 成功为「 Inissia」造势。

DAVID HARTUNG

瞬时完美咖啡

tasting news

街头美食

street cuisine S T R E E T F O O D has gone high-end this May with

the opening of Mama San. The restaurant and bar has opened in an industrial warehouse in gleaming Central, but the flavors come from the alleyways of China, Indonesia, India, Malaysia, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. That’s where Chef Will Meyrick spent countless hours practicing time-honored techniques and recipes, learning from the women who run the region’s street stands and food carts.

Meyrick says that he sees himself as maintaining the authenticity of the cuisine culture that has nurtured him, and with his street-inspired approach he has already made his mark on the Asian culinary scene with the original Mama San, located in Bali. At the Hong Kong venue, a portrait of Mama San herself hangs on the wall, gazing down with approval at diners. 今年五月 Mama San 餐厅在繁华热闹的香港中环开幕，路 边平民菜色就此跃上高档餐厅菜单。该餐厅建筑是由工业 仓库改装而成，菜单中的道道佳肴则是融汇中国、印尼、 印度、马来西亚、泰国、柬埔寨、越南等地的街头美食， 多年来，大厨 Will Meyrick 游遍亚洲各地，向街头小贩学 习许多祖传的烹调技艺与家常食谱。

Meyrick 长期受到街头美食文化薰陶，也期许自己能 维护传承街坊小吃的独创性，他把在大街小巷习得的手艺 带入峇里岛的 Mama San 餐厅本店，早已让他成为颇负盛 名的亚洲菜名厨。香港新开幕的 Mama San 餐厅的墙上， 还可见到一幅 Mama San（青楼老鸨）的画像，笑吟吟的 俯视大快朵颐的饕客。

Mama San, Central, Hong Kong 1/F, 46 Wyndham Street, Central 香港中环云咸街46号一楼 www.diningconcepts.com

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DAVID HARTUNG

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presented by sofitel macau

一流飨宴

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cultivated cantonese At Sofitel Macau at Ponte 16, Le Chinois’ refined Cantonese cuisine is matched by the elegance of the setting.

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Mini Pumpkin Stuffed with Waygu Beef 健康美食和 牛迷你南瓜盅魚

 Hostess at the tea bar 礼仪小姐备茶中

 View of Macau’s inner

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harbor from Le Chinois 乐轩华窗外的 内港美景 魚魚

 Le Chinois at Sofitel

at Ponte 16 澳门十六浦索菲特大 酒店粤菜餐厅乐轩华

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位于十六浦索菲特大酒店 18 楼全新的粤 菜餐厅「乐轩华」（Le Chinois)。其居高临 下的位置优势，让客人能在餐厅内饱览澳 门内港醉人美景。天然木地板，赤陶土砖 墙，和红色茶艺间 , 温馨优雅的环境带给 客人愉快的用餐体验。行政总厨何华表示： 「能到乐轩华工作真的很开心，广东菜结合 优美的内部装潢，带给饕客美好的时光。」 餐厅备有一系列茶品，包括红茶、黄 茶、青茶、普洱及乌龙茶，以及「乐轩华」 限定的多种稀有手工茶种，搭配总厨精心 制作的美味港式点心享用，真是一大乐事。 总厨的高超厨艺曾获大奖肯定，功力 炉火纯青，除了精炖燕窝、蚝油鲍鱼、脆 皮烧肉之外，一定不能错过的就是招牌菜 - 迷你南瓜镶和牛。 味道鲜美、层次丰富的粤式美馔，餐 厅无论从摆盘到上桌都充满各式高雅细 节。中国风与法式的优雅组合营造出高尚 且一流的极致飨宴。

COURTESY OF SOFITEL MACAU (4)

OVERLOOKING MACAU’S INNER HARBOR from the top floor of Sofitel Macau at Ponte 16, Le Chinois is the hotel’s newest Cantonese restaurant. Natural wood floors, terracotta brick walls, and a lovely red tea bar work together to create an ambience of welcoming elegance.

“I am delighted to work at such a restaurant,” says Executive Chef Ho Wah. “The combination of Cantonese cuisine with the beautiful interior design gives our guests a splendid dining experience.”

To go along with Ho Wah’s delicious dim sum, Le Chinois offers black, yellow, green, pu-erh and oolong teas, along with a selection of organic, artisanal teas selected especially for customers.

The award-winning Chef Ho also serves up Cantonese specialties such as braised bird’s nest, abalone with oyster sauce, roasted pork belly, and Le Chinois’ signature dish: wagyu-stuffed mini pumpkin. It’s fresh, flavorful, satisfying Cantonese cuisine, served with pleasingly elegant accents.

The careful combination of Chinese and French influences makes for a super civilized experience.

tasting news

asia’s 50 best restaurants

创造历史

making history

NAHM RESTAURANT in Bangkok, Thailand is S. Pellegrino’s Asia’s Best Restaurant for 2014. Nahm Chef David Thompson, who comes from Australia, says that his infatuation with and eventual mastery of Thai cuisine began when he became intrigued by historical Thai cookbooks: “As an outsider in Thailand, I was fascinated by history. It was important to understand the complex past of the country in order to understand the food . . . When I read a historical cookbook I have the taste in my mouth. I am like a detective savoring traditional flavors.”

Thompson believes the high point in Thailand’s culinary history came in the 19th century, when cookbooks were first printed in Thailand. He also feels that the wonderful produce available in Thailand today could help drive a culinary renaissance. “In Bangkok there is an increasing cornucopia of ingredients available, so I just don’t want to open a restaurant anywhere else. We are meeting with farmers who grow things specifically for us: rare and beautiful products like wild ginger, along with papayas, spices, fresh cloves and some wild fruits. In Thailand there are 66 varieties of durian, which to me means there are 66 levels of heaven.”

“You’ve just got access to these amazing ingredients in the country of origin,” he says, summing up the experience of cooking Thai food in the heart of Thailand. “My job as a cook is to remain faithful to the cuisine.” 位于泰国曼谷的 Nahm 餐厅荣膺 2014 年 S. Pellegrino 亚洲最佳餐厅。 来自澳洲的主厨 David Thompson 表示，他对泰式料理的热爱，以及对 料理精髓的掌握，其实从一开始接触到传统泰国食谱的那一刻就开始了。 主厨说 ： 「身为一个在泰国的异乡人，我为它的历史所深深吸引。若想了 解一个国家的料理，就必须先去认识它背后复杂的历史脉络。我在阅读 传统泰国食谱时，就像在品尝传统的泰式料理，唇齿之间仿佛尝得到那 味儿。 」

Thompson 提到，泰国的烹饪史于 19 世纪达到巅峰，当时人们开 始印制食谱。他也相信泰国现在种类繁多、产量丰富的农产品能够使其 烹饪业再次辉煌。 「曼谷的物产非常丰饶，越来越多食材都能就地取得， 所以我没想过到其他地方开餐厅。我们也跟农夫们打交道，请他们帮忙 种植特殊且精致的食材，比方说野姜、木瓜、丁香、各种野果和香料。 在泰国光是榴梿就有 66 种不同的品种，这对我来说就像有 66 层的天堂 一样令人乐不可支。 」 「你能在原产地就地取 Thompson 总结他在泰国烹饪料理的经验 ： 得令人​​惊艳的食材。身为一个厨师，我必须忠于呈现这些菜肴的原味， 始终如一。 」

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山珍海味

natural brilliance FAMED FOR HIS EXQUISITE DISHES inspired by nature, Chef Yoshihiro Narisawa, whose restaurant Narisawa in Tokyo, Japan, was The S.Pellegrino Best Restaurant in Asia 2013, says that sustainability can taste simply irresistible. “I go to the sea and the mountains and fields in nature and that gives me inspiration. Because eating

is nature. When people eat to live, we are eating nature. So it is our responsibility to make sure that nature keeps surviving. I send this message through my dishes. I want my guests to realize we have problems in society. I will do anything to raise awareness of sustainability.”

Narisawa believes that chefs need to take a more global view, to take their heads out of the domestic environment of the kitchen, broaden their focus beyond guests and profit margins and to think more widely about the legacy they leave for the environment. He emphasizes the long view: “I think we should work not only for today but for one or two hundred years from now.”

One rule Narisawa lives by is to use local produce whenever possible. Not only for the lower carbon footprint but also for the greater flavor. “Fresh local produce is naturally delicious. The people who produce it also know the best way to cook it. I hope in the future we will use only local produce in our restaurants.” 名厨 Yoshihiro Narisawa 在日本东京开设 Narisawa 餐厅，其中道道精 致料理皆深受大自然启发，名闻遐迩，并荣获 2013 年 S. Pellegrino 亚 「延续大自然生命力与享受美食，是 洲最佳餐厅称号。Narisawa 说 ： 可以兼得的。我从山间、海边和田野得到灵感。因为吃本是人的天性， 人们进食以维持生命，便是在品尝自然，因此让大自然永保生命力是 我们的责任。我透过料理传达这个讯息，想让顾客察觉到社会其实存 在着许多问题。我也会竭尽所能让大众关切永续发展的议题。 」

Narisawa 认为厨师更要有世界观，别把重心只放在目光所及，视 野要更宽广。除了顾客和利益之外，更要想想他们能为自然环境做些 什么。他强调厨师要把眼光放远。 「我们不该只为今天而工作，也要为 一两百年后的世界尽一分努力。 」

Narisawa 坚守的一个原则就是选取食材时尽可能使用当地农产 品，这样做不只能减少碳足迹，也能使菜肴口味更新鲜。 「新鲜的当地 农作物拥有自然的美味。农夫们也知道食材的最佳做法。我希望在未来， 我的餐厅能够只用当地的农产品来做菜。 」

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tasting news

美食典范

exemplary dishes By cooking creative, ambitiously flavored dishes, Chef David Wong inspires students to excel in the kitchen.

BY INARA SIM

在澳门旅游学院（Institute for Tourism Studies，IFT） ，餐饮部行政副经理黄育山 帮助学生运用当地的新鲜有机食材，烹调时令佳肴。随着春天来临，他们推出了 一系列适合在煦风送暖时品尝的崭新菜色。餐点食材新鲜、清爽、质优，更有各 种令人惊喜的风味。

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

AT THE INSTITUTE FOR TOURISM STUDIES (IFT) in Macau, Executive Assistant Manager David Wong helps students create seasonal dishes using fresh, local and organic ingredients. With the arrival of spring, David and his students have created a range of new dishes to suit the warmer weather. Expect fresh, light, top quality ingredients and a range of exciting flavors.

Grilled Quail with Salad Niçoise Salad Niçoise is traditionally served with tuna. At IFT, David has kept the foundations of the salad – sweet beans, tomatoes, anchovies, capers, dark olives, quail eggs, potatoes and onions – but instead of tuna, he tops it all off with lightly grilled quail and an olive oil vinaigrette dressing. “This is quite a heavy salad, but the quail is such a light and dainty bird it doesn’t weigh it down,” says David. “It’s colorful and interesting with lots of different ingredients.”

扒鹌鹑配法式沙律 传统的尼斯沙律是配吞拿鱼的。在澳门旅游学院，黄 育山主厨保留了这沙律的基础，即蜜豆、西红柿、鯷鱼、 刺山柑、黑橄榄、鹌鹑蛋、马铃薯及洋葱，再放上稍 微烤过的鹌鹑， 淋上橄榄油醋酱。他说： 「沙律味道丰富， 但鹌鹑肉清爽美味，因此不会让整道菜过于沉重。不 同的食材点缀成色彩缤纷的沙拉，让人胃口大开。 」

tasting news

Venison Scotch Egg A deluxe take on the classic British recipe, David’s Scotch egg is made with venison instead of pork to give it a gamier, fuller flavor. He hand chops the meat rather than using a blender in order to preserve a coarse texture. Mixed with thyme, parsley and spring onion, the meat is wrapped around soft-boiled, free-range eggs, rolled in breadcrumbs and deep fried. “You must cook them quickly on a really high heat,” says David. “Just long enough to give them some color, but you really want to keep that runny texture of the eggs.”

苏格兰式鹿肉包鸡蛋配沙律 经典英国料理的奢华版本，以鹿肉代替猪肉，赋予苏格兰鸡 蛋更清香的野味和更丰润的滋味。黄主厨处理肉类不用搅拌 机，改以手剁，保留鲜肉结实的口感。鹿肉混合百里香、巴 西里及荞头，包在放养鸡煮出的溏心蛋外，再滚上面包屑油 炸。黄主厨说 ： 「炸的时候油温要非常高、速度要快，只要 上色就行了，这样才能同时保留鸡蛋黏软的质地。 」

Fresh Cod With Bouillabaisse Sauce Using the leftovers from the day’s catch, fishermen traditionally cooked this one-pot wonder from Marseilles on France’s southern coast right on the beach. Flavored with fennel, dill, onion, leek, tomatoes and aniseed, the broth is fortified with shellfish and trimmings – David uses cod, clams, and mussels – to pack a seafood punch. The secret is to let the broth simmer for an hour or so to let the flavors meld before adding the fish and potatoes, and then the shellfish in the last few minutes. David serves his bouillabaisse with a hot crusty breadstick smeared with homemade rouille sauce.

法式浸鳕鱼 在法国南方马赛港，渔夫会用当天剩下来的渔获，在海滩上 烹煮这锅传统美味。这菜以茴香、莳萝、洋葱、青葱、西红 柿和八角调味，加上贝类与鱼肉切边（黄主厨用鳕鱼、蛤蛎、 淡菜） ，让浓郁鲜美的海味，给味蕾一场震撼洗礼。制作这 道菜有个诀窍，就是用汤汁煨大约一小时，入味后再加入鱼 肉及马铃薯，最后几分钟再加入贝类。上桌后佐以热腾腾的

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

香脆面包棍，涂上自制蒜泥蛋黄酱。

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Millefeuille of Chocolate Traditionally made with layers of flaky pastry and cream, the millefeuille is a classic French dessert. For his version, David has traded in the pastry for layers upon layers of rich Verona chocolate – milk and dark chocolate, chocolate praline biscuit, chocolate mousse and chocolate ganache - making this dessert the ultimate in chocolate indulgence. Accompanied by a scoop of David’s homemade vanilla bean ice cream, it makes a sinfully rich finale to a meal.

法式巧克力蛋糕 千层派是经典法式甜点，传统作法以酥皮和奶油交叠， 但黄主厨稍作改动，不用酥皮，改用层层交叠的浓郁维 罗纳朱古力。在牛奶巧克力、黑巧克力、巧克力果仁饼干、 巧克力慕斯及软心巧克力的多重刺激下，这道甜点无疑 成为了极致的巧克力飨宴。再加上一杓黄主厨自制的香 草豆冰淇淋，为这餐画上完美句点。

power of two Celebrity Chefs Cheng Yen Chi and Wu Ping Cheng bring their Taiwanese brand of authenticity and complexity to Ying at Altira Macau.

YING HAS ALWAYS BEEN a restaurant synonymous with the best of fine Cantonese cuisine and local delicacies. Now, the presence of two Taiwanese masters brings something distinctive to the table.

Until August 31, Altira Macau is hosting two legendary Taiwanese chefs: Cheng Yen Chi and Wu Ping Cheng. Working together in Macau for the first time ever, the two chefs have designed a menu of authentic Taiwanese cuisine especially for Ying. During their stay, the chefs will share their special recipes and cooking techniques with the culinary team at Ying.

Chef Cheng Yen Chi, also known as

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“Chef A-Chi,” is a superstar of Taiwanese cuisine. He has had a career that spans decades, with stints in every five-star Taiwanese hotel of note. “Nowadays, having the opportunity to train and develop the next generation of chefs is what inspires and motivates me,” he says. “Imparting the secrets of fine Taiwanese cooking is thrilling, and of course there are always opportunities to learn from others.”

Chef Wu Ping Cheng is renowned in Taiwan not only for his inventive take on fusion cuisine, but also for his ability to prepare dishes which remain light and healthy while retaining maximum flavor. Modern

Taiwanese cuisine, he says, is defined by this lighter, healthier touch: “This means less dependence on heavy oils and deep frying, and more of a focus on the punch of spices and flavors that gives a dish character and complexity.”

The special menus at Ying feature Taiwanese flavors from north to south. From the north come a traditional dish of glutinous rice with crab and Chinese cabbage, and claypot-cooked shark’s fin. The earthy flavors of central Taiwan feature in an oyster noodle soup with pork intestine and sea cucumber, and a fragrant lemon fig and grass jelly with bird’s nest. Southern Taiwan is also represented: the region’s fresh seafood comes to the fore in dishes of stir-fried Spanish mackerel, steamed milk fish maw and mullet roe.

“The idea of the menu is to give guests a traditional Taiwanese cuisine experience, and to weave fresh and unexpected fusion elements through the dishes to modernize and update them,” says Chef A-Chi. ‘’Our aim is not only technical excellence, but to surprise and delight.”

COURTESY OF ALTIRA MACAU (6)

宝岛名厨

presented by altira macau

台湾名厨「阿基师」郑衍基及吴秉承破天 荒于澳门新濠锋粤菜食府「帝影楼」合作， 带来最正宗的多元风味台湾美馔。 澳门新濠锋「帝影楼」向来是精致广 东菜及地方料理的代名词。接下来直至 8 月 31 日止，两位来自台湾的「总铺师」将大 展身手，端出风格独具的古早味台湾料理。 两大传奇名厨郑衍基及吴秉承合作设 计健康养生的台湾特色佳肴，并亲自把食 谱及烹调法授予「帝影楼」的团队，饕客 将可一尝专为澳门新濠锋精心打造的地道 台湾料理套餐。 人称「阿基师」的名厨郑衍基，厨师 生涯至今已数十载。他在台湾料理界是家 喻户晓的明星级人物，台湾较具代表性的 五星级饭店几乎都看得到「阿基师」的身 影。谈到培育下一代人才时，他十分谦卑 ： 「有机会培训新兴厨师让我充满动力、想法 也源源不绝。传承台湾料理的精髓实为重 责大任，当然期间也总能教学相长。」

吴秉承的新创融合式料理强调清淡健 康，却味道饱满、香味四溢，让他闯出一 片天。对于现代台湾料理的特点，主厨分 析： 「主要走清淡健康路线 ：意即少油、少 炸，以香料及味道为重点，带出特色及多 元层次。」 「帝影楼」特别套餐可以品尝从南到北 的台湾菜精华，像是北部传统佳肴红 蟳 米 糕及以土锅熬煮的白菜排翅盅 ；蚵仔面线 加上大肠及乌参、或柠香爱玉佐燕窝，吃 得到中部料理朴实的食材原味 ；南部菜系 当然也不缺席 ：主打台湾南部的生猛海鲜， 包括爆炒土 魠 鱼、树子蒸虱目鱼腹及乌鱼 子。 阿基师强调 ： 「希望能带给客人一场 传统台湾料理盛宴，在料理中挹注创新、 令 人 意 想 不 到 的 元 素， 不 断 改 良， 以 符 合 现 代 的 餐 饮 风 格。 我 们 不 只 要 显 现 炉 火 纯 青 的 技 术， 更 要 令 人 惊 喜、 回 味 无 穷。」

Free Range Chicken with Tangerine Sauce and Mullet Roe 桔酱放山鸡拼乌鱼子

→ Chef Wu Ping Cheng 名厨吴秉承师傅 ↓ Glutinous Rice with Sugarcanesmoked Duck and Crab 三星鸭赏佐红蟳米糕

↑ Deep-fried Taro Balls with Dried Longan, Jujube Paste and Conpoy 桂圆炸芋枣 ← Chef Cheng Yen Chi 名厨郑衍基师傅

tasting news

微型经典 汇聚极致

COURTESY OF L’OR JEAN MARTELL (3)

maximum taste miniaturized GOOD THINGS come in small packages. Case in point: the L’or Jean Martell Miniature Art – Mini L’Or – launched worldwide by Martell, the renowned cognac house. Inside the 200ml bottle is an artful, harmonious blend of four hundred eaux-de-vie, including powerful and aromatic distillations from Grande Champagne and Borderies. Prominent notes of black currant and woodland undergrowth are rounded out by tones of gingerbread and orange.

The luxurious cognac comes inside a showstopping decanter shaped in the form of a single drop of liquid cradled by admiring hands. Created using glassblowing techniques by Cristal de Sèvres, the sides and stopper of the decanter are etched with 24K gold swirls. It’s an elegant, sumptuous design that perfectly complements the amber liquid held within.

小而美好，这句话用来形容马爹利精装 版干邑，再恰当不过。酿酒大师马爹 利于全球推出马爹利精装版干邑，这 款 200 毫 升 的 Mini L’Or 据 称 是 包 含 了由四百种珍贵的「生命之水」调和 而成的佳酿。马爹利严选来自法国大 香 槟 区 Grande Champagne 和 边 林 区 Borderies 醇厚馥郁的「生命之水」，使 美酒洋溢着黑加仑子、木香、姜饼及甜 橙的香气，呈现更丰富的味觉层次。 矜贵奢华的 Mini L’Or 酒瓶同样巧 夺 天 工， 由 著 名 法 国 水 晶 工 房 Cristal

de Sèvres 传承百年传统技艺制作，每 个水滴形的水晶酒瓶皆由人工吹制，平 身底座恰似一双巧手，向你奉上完美佳 酿。瓶身与酒盖顶部 24K 金片均刻有回 旋图案，迷人的黄金光晕与酒瓶内琥珀 色的干邑互相呼应。 appetite for art

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inspired living

四大品牌餐具 不容错过

four square flatware Subtle differences make them unique but chic style is shared by all.

Asta Cutlery by Alessi A sleek and timeless look sure to enhance any table setting, courtesy of designer Alessandro Mendini. 设计大师Alessandro Mendini 又一精心杰作， 造型流线经典，赏心悦目，适合各种场合。 www.alessi.com, +852 2968 1188

Facet by Robert Welch, UK Made of high quality stainless steel, these utensils promise to last a lifetime and beyond. 顶级不锈钢打造，刀具恒久远，坚固且耐用。 www.equipasia.com, +852 2838 8989

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Calligraphy-Cutlery Set by JIA Inc., in collaboration with the National Palace Museum Inspired by the brushstrokes of Chinese calligraphy created during the Sung Dynasty, this set is both artistic and functional. 以宋朝书法的挥毫笔法为灵感 打造，兼具艺术及功能性。 www.jia-inc.com, +852 2750 5571

Jardin d’Eden Silverware by Christofle Collaborator Marcel Wanders takes you out of the dining room and into an engraved garden of leaves and flowers. 鬼才大师Marcel Wanders的花草图腾刻印 设计，让人走出餐厅，仿如置身花园。 www.christofle.com, +852 2869 7311

CĂŠline Domerc

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inspired living

薪传锅艺

pot art

DAVID HARTUNG

Feel like cooking your dinner in a pot of modern art?

Italian cookware Lagostina manufacturer makes it possible.

WHAT MAKES ITALIAN COOKWARE legend Lagostina a great fit for Hong Kong’s home kitchens? It’s all about heritage, says Céline Domerc, VP of marketing for the Asia Pacific region for the French consortium SEB. “The passing on from generation to generation is something that is quite important in Hong Kong,” she says. “And it’s also very much part of the positioning of Lagostina – the passing on from mother to daughter, the recipes, the way to cook with these specific cookware tools.”

Founded in Omegna, Italy, in 1901, Lagostina achieved worldwide renown in the 1930s with its Casa Mia stainless steel cookware line. The original Casa Mia pot is a masterpiece of modern Italian industrial design and is on display at the Museum of Modern Art in New York. All of Lagostina’s current designs can be viewed as its direct descendants.

“Lagostina was the first brand to introduce stainless steel in Italy, so there is a real know-how in that sense,” says Ms. Domerc. There is “always a good mix between tradition and quite advanced technology.”

That advanced technology is literally at the core of the product: while the signature, gracefully curved and mirror-polished exteriors may draw immediate attention, it’s the interior composition – the Lagoseal aluminum base and the Lagoplan 5-ply construction, for example – that guarantees highcaliber cooking performance.

“Lagostina is very much about simple design – timeless design,” says Ms. Domerc. She says it has to do with the Italian sense of elegance and way of living. It’s hard to disagree: when your soup is simmering in a pot of modern art, it does feel a lot like living la dolce vita.

要问为什么意大利国宝锅具

Lagostina 和香港的家庭厨房很对 味 ? 这问题由 Lagostina 所属法国 SEB 集 团 的 亚 太 地 区 行 销 副 总 裁

Céline Domerc 回 答 正 好。“ 经 典 传承很重要 ”，她说。 「在香港，代代相传极受重视， 而这也是 Lagostina 定位中很重要 的部分。不管是食谱，或是厨具和 工具烹饪的使用方式，都由母亲传 承给女儿。 」

Lagostina 于 1901 年 在 意 大 利 奥 梅 尼 亚成 立，1930 年 代 推 出

Casa Mia 不 锈 钢 锅 具 系 列， 享 誉 全球。原创的 Casa Mia 锅具是现 代意大利工业设计的杰作，获纽约 现 代 艺 术 博 物 馆 收 藏 陈 列。 目 前

Lagostina 的设计被认为直接承袭 自 Casa Mia 系列。 「Lagostina Céline Domerc 说： 率先将不锈钢引进意大利，所以对 这方面的技术知之甚详」 ，并且「向 来完美揉合了传统和先进技术。 」 先 进 技 术 正 是 产 品 的「 核 心」 。锅具外表有招牌的优雅弧 度， 镜 面 抛 光 外 层， 一 下 就 能 引 人注目，不过，锅具的内部结构， 例 如 Lagoseal 铝 心， 外 覆 五 层

Lagoplan 结 构， 才 是 高 效 能 烹 饪 的保证。 「Lagostina Céline Domerc 说： 的精髓是简洁的设计，也就是永恒 的设计。 」她认为这和意大利的优 雅美感及生活方式有关。不可否认， 用现代艺术品锅具煲汤，让人生活 美好。

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匙之艺

artful spooning At an exhibition called “Scoop It,” held this spring at Taipei jewelry and small object gallery Mano, the humble spoon was elevated to art.

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Yu-Chun Chen’s “twang”: “Other senses and feelings aroused by the act of spooning.” 陈郁君的「弦」： 「舀匙所引发的其他感官体验与情感反应。 」 ↗

Resembling human bones, Yen-Yu Lu’s “Scapula” serves as an extension of the hand and fingers. 卢嬿宇的「肩胛」状似人骨，宛如手与指的延伸。 →

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IMAGES COURTESY MANO AND THE ARTISTS

Yu-Chun Chen, an avid spoon collector as well as a jeweler, curated “Scoop It” and contributed her own spoon: “hear.” 陈郁君本身爱好收藏汤匙与珠宝创作 , 是 「慢慢舀」的策展人，并展出自己的汤匙 “ 聆 ”。

inspired living

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In her always-white work, Shih-Dea Tseng invites the viewer to feel the warmth of a mother’s palm, the place where she believes life begins. 曾诗迪在其经典白色作品中，邀请观者感受母亲手掌的温暖，

她相信生命的孕育始于掌心。 ←

Li-Chuan Lin’s “ 如此 , 如匙 ” transforms the spoon from a vehicle for food to a container for emotions, memories and desires. 林丽娟的「如此， 如匙」让汤匙从普通的餐具转化为承载情绪、 回忆与欲望的盛器。 ↙

Collectively called “Together,” these spoons are made by metal smith Tai-Jung Wu, who was inspired by her memories of Taiwan’s diverse food culture. 吴岱容是金属创作者，这回作品由数个汤匙组成，总称「一起」 ，

展现对台湾多元饮食文化的回忆。

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Childhood fishing nets and spoons combine in this intricately woven work, titled “Capture II,” by jeweler and sculptor Yu-Fang Chi. 纪宇芳是首饰创作者暨雕刻家，她的作品「捕捉 II」 ，

巧妙将儿时渔网与汤匙两相结合。

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inspired living

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奢华空间

the luxury of space Joyce Wang, the lauded designer whose credits include the spectacular AMMO interior in Hong Kong and a revamp of the storied Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel in Los Angeles, sat down with Barbra Austin to talk about great restaurant design, her love of monumental spaces and the meaning of luxury.

§ 斐声设计界的新锐

鬼才 Joyce Wang，代表作如香港 AMMO 时尚餐厅的内部装潢及赫赫有名的 洛杉矶好莱坞罗斯福酒店翻修计画等均备受好评。Joyce 特地抽空，与TK记 者 Barbara Austin 畅谈何谓一流的餐厅空间设计，她对于经典空间规划的热 爱以及奢华代表的含意。

When you’re designing, you’re balancing three competing forces: the client’s expectations, your own vision, and the expectation of how users will experience a space. Can you talk about negotiating a balance among these forces?

It’s such a triangle, especially with hospitality projects – you also have the operations people, and housekeeping ... There’s no one person who makes the final call. I think in the end it’s about what you think is right.

You know, of course it’s important to help align things and make things functional for operations and keep the client happy and ultimately to have a user come into a space that has anticipated their needs. But in the end it really is up to you, the designer, to stand strong and fight for what you believe in, because that’s why you’re there.

Dining area at Mott 32, designed by Joyce Wang

如何接洽新的设计案？ 其实和约会有点像，不是贸然就立刻 开始的。确立合作之前，我们通常先和客 户约会。用心一点的，我们会一起品酒享 用佳肴，过程中摸索客户会心动的地方在 哪、他们认真的程度为何、以及可接受的 范围多大等。别让客户觉得只是找了群专 案经理完成他们想要的愿景而已。这样找 设计师就没什么意义了。专业意见就是我 们的附加价值，也是花钱请我们的关键所 在。所以所谓的约会过程非常重要，双方 都要觉得舒服自在才行。

EDMON LEONG

How do you start with a new project?

It’s kind of like dating. We don’t start immediately. Before we say yes to any project, we date the client. If it’s done the good way, we wine and dine each other. You try to find out what makes them tick, you know, whether they’re serious about design, how

您总能在满足客户期望、自己的愿景及用 户使用空间的需求三者之间取得平衡，中 间过程有何秘诀？ 的确如同金三角，酒店设计案更是如 此 — 有来自营运方的声音，以及酒店管理 人员的意见，相互拉锯却又没人可以拍板 定案，最终还是要回归到自己的直觉，做 出正确的决定。一方面要让空间运用井然 有序、发挥其功能性、方便营运方管理， 也要让客户开心，让使用者进入空间后的 各种需求，均能获得满足。不过我想终归 要回到自己身上，身为设计师立场要坚定、 为自己的信念去发声、去争取，这才是设 计师存在的价值。

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Mott 32 interiors designed by Joyce Wang

You’ve designed interiors, furniture, and even websites. Could a careful observer detect an underlying sensibility throughout all of your work?

I doubt it, actually. I mean, I really enjoy learning about different processes, different cultures and techniques. So we don’t really have a house style other than that we work hard. We try to have design be very considered – I think that’s the right word for it – no matter what the context or aesthetic.

What Hong Kong spaces do you admire?

The first one that comes to mind is the Asia Society building. If someone came to visit me in Hong Kong it’s a place I would take them because it is a statement, and

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I think it respects the surroundings really well. It’s got beautiful materials and it’s really timeless and monumental. And I actually really like the belly of the HSBC building.

I think it’s a really great public space. And I love the feeling of going up the escalators – it just gives you a feeling of importance, even if you’re a little account holder. I like how architecture can make someone feel quite important and appreciated.

Who are your biggest influences?

Designer-wise, I can name a few: Frank Lloyd Wright, Adolf Loos, and Carlo Scarpa.

Their work, there’s a kind of monumental quality to it, and that’s what really appeals to me; it’s got this kind of psychology, where people walk into a space, and they can be transformed. And that’s really powerful.

How do you define luxury?

I think the main thing is that it feels private. A room is luxurious to me when I can walk around naked and have a lot of space, and I can jump into the bath with my husband and be able to use it, just shamelessly.

I think a lot of boutique hotels, they claim to

have that “boutique chic,” but a lot of expensive hotels lack that quality. They crowd everything into a room. And you can’t call it affordable luxury, I’m sorry to say. Space is luxury, no matter how you look at it.

Speaking of space, AMMO is a restaurant that feels bigger than it is.

Nowhere in Hong Kong do you find a space like that. Immediately we thought, “How do you take this and amplify the beautiful qualities about it?” For me it was really important to draw someone’s eye up, because in Hong Kong … you hardly ever look up and think of something as a building rather than a shop front. So it was important for us to make these staircases, to have a kind of focal point, for people to look up and think this is a really high ceiling. It captures the landscape beautifully.

As a diner, what elements of restaurant design do you appreciate most?

The food. That’s the first thing. Food and music. If those two things are wrong, even if you have a beautiful interior, you can’t make up for it.

EDMON LEONG (8)

far they’re willing to be stretched. I think it’s important for them to not see us as project managers, to execute a vision they have, because [in that case] there’s no point to having us on board. Our added value is that we have our opinions, and that’s essentially what you’re paying for. So the dating process is really important. You have to feel comfortable with each other.

inspired living

您做室内设计，也跨足家具、甚至网站。 使用者够敏锐的话，会否发现一些共通的 细腻之处？ 这点其实我是存疑的。这么说好了， 透过不同过程、文化或技术不断学习，我 当然乐在其中，所以可能根本没有什么招 牌特色，要说的话大概就是我们百分之百 的投入吧。不管内容或风格为何，我们的 设计都是经过「深思熟虑」、因地制宜完成 的作品，应该可以这样形容。 您有特别钟爱的香港建筑吗？ 第一个浮出脑海的就是亚洲协会香港 中心大楼。要带朋友看看香港的话，它绝 对是不二选择。首先建筑本身就非常值得 一看，周遭环境在设计理念中也很重要， 融洽又不失尊重。选用的建材令人赏心悦 目，宏伟又经典。我也很喜欢汇丰 HSBC 大楼中段的设计，真的是公共空间的典范。 搭电扶梯上楼的感觉很棒，给人宾至如归 的感受，即使只是小小的存款户也极为礼 遇。建筑物可以做到让人觉得备受重视及 礼遇，真的很不简单。

谈谈影响您最大的人物？ 设 计 师 的 话 有 好 几 位 ：Frank Lloyd Wright、Adolf Loos 以 及 Carlo Scarpa。 他 们的作品都有种历久弥新的经典特质，让 我佩服不已。似乎有种心里的魔力，让走 进空间的人都能感到焕然一新，确实令人 相当震撼。 您对奢华的定义为何？ 关键在于私密性。可以光着身体自在 走动、享用宽广的空间、想泡澡的时候拉 着老公就去、一点也不害臊，对我而言那 就是最奢华的房间。很多精品旅馆都打着 「精品时尚」的名号，不过其中很多要价高 昂的旅馆却没有我说的私密特质。不管什 么都一股脑塞进房间，说句不中听的，那 并非所谓平价的低调奢华。不管用什么眼 光来看，让人自在的空间就是奢华。 谈到空间，AMMO 餐厅让人觉得空间往 外延伸，比想象中大得多。 确实在香港，这样的空间找不到第二 个。我们当时脑中想的就是 ： 「要如何以原

空间为基础，把优点最大化？」对我而言， 让人视线往上非常重要。香港街上摩肩擦 踵看到都是人，来来去去，几乎都往下看， 注意眼前的商店，好像鲜少有人会抬头看 看身边的建筑。 所以直达天花板的楼梯在设计中扮演 重要的角色，可以作为视线的焦点、让人 往上看，增加高耸空间感的同时，也和周 遭地景搭配得天衣无缝。 一开始看到天花板空间那么多，承包 商的想法是 ： 「那就装一堆空调吧。」我们 也配合演出、一同设计，但过程中尽可能 加大可以发挥使用的空间。 根本可以说是为巨人在设计空间，从 头到尾我们的态度就是 ： 「挑高天花板只装 空调？省省吧，你们能用的空间只有这么 多了！」

对于餐厅设计，作为客人，哪个条件您特 别重视？ 料理，绝对是先决条件。料理和音乐， 如果出错的话，即使装潢再怎么好看，也 都无济于事。

Hay Market inside the Sha Tin Racecourse, designed by Joyce Wang

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为酒庄 为艺术

Woollaston

At the northern end of New Zealand’s South Island, Woollaston Estates is known for both fine wine and fine art.

IN THE REGION OF NELSON, along New Philip 与 Chan Woollaston 夫 妻 档 于 1992 Zealand’s Tasman Bay, Philip and Chan 年在南岛的尼尔森区，沿着塔斯曼湾打造 Woollaston established their first small vine了属于自己的小酒庄。 Philip 为当代艺术 yard in 1992. Before becoming a winemaker, 先锋、纽西兰最负盛名画家之一 Toss WolPhilip worked for the United Nations and laston 爵士之子，投入酿酒业前曾为联合国 was a member of parliament for Nelson. He 工作，也是尼尔森地方议会的一员，并于 served as Mayor of Nelson from 1992-98.

1992 年至 1998 年担任尼尔森市长。 Philip is the son of the late Sir Toss Wool尼尔森为纽西兰第六大葡萄酒产区，一 laston, a pioneer of modern art in New 个半小时的车程即可抵达另一酒乡马尔堡区 Zealand and one of the country’s most 的西翼。当地风景如织，人文荟萃，聚集了 famous painters. 许多纽西兰一流的艺术家、陶艺家，以及一 Nelson is New Zealand’s sixth largest 群以追求品质为职志的酿酒人。尼尔森有两 wine region, a drive of one and half hours to 大酒产区、风格各异 ：威弥亚平原排水良好 the west of Marlborough. It is a scenic area, 的深厚河床冲积砾土能孕育出酸度饱满、果 home to many of the country’s 味鲜明的红白酒 ; 而茂提尔山丘石 BY best artists and potters as well as 灰岩地形层叠、富含营养的黏性 WINE MASTER a collection of mostly boutique, 土壤则适合味道凝练、可长期窖 BOB CAMPBELL quality-focused wine producers. 藏的陈年佳酿。这正是 Woollaston Nelson has two distinct wine 葡萄园的所在地。两区紧邻陡峭、 sub-regions: the Waimea Plains where deep, 树丛茂密的利奇蒙山脊，依靠天然屏障，不 free-draining alluvial river gravels produce 受水汽饱满的强劲西风影响。 crisp, vibrantly fruity red and white wines; Philip 与太太少量酿制葡萄酒数年后， and the limestone-laced, richer clay soils of 打算扩大庄园规模。两人得知向他们租地 the Moutere Hills that yield more concen经营果园的朋友在茂提尔山丘有块地正待 trated and longer-lived wines. Woollaston’s 价而沽，决定先买下再说。此为尼尔森当 vineyards are exclusively in the Moutere 地的酿酒「黄金地段」。不过两人手头并没 Hills. Both sub-regions are sheltered from 有资金开发，于是 Philip 向当地知名艺术 the prevailing, moisture-laden westerly winds 家、也是好友 Jane Evans 求救说 ： 「真希望 by the steep, bush-clad Richmond Ranges. 有个百万富翁来帮忙。」 After producing a small quantity of wine 一周后，Philip 的愿望就成真，Jane 在 for a few years, Philip and his wife Chan 电话中告诉他 ： 「你要的人找到了。」这位 decided to expand their vineyard. They 贵人便是来自美国的 Glen Schaeffer。他和 owned additional land that was leased to an Philip 一样热爱艺术、美酒以及尼尔森的大 orchardist who also owned land in the Mou自然美景。在亲身看过葡萄园及酿酒厂后， tere Hills, Nelson’s vineyard “sweet spot.” 更是二话不说决定和 Philip 合作。

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new zealand wine

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Church in East Takaka,â&#x20AC;? watercolor 40 x 45 cm, by Toss Woollaston

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new zealand wine

“ I think that organic vineyards are healthier than those that use herbicides, fungicides and insecticides and that the wines simply taste better. 相较使用除草剂、杀菌剂 和杀虫剂的庄园，有机 葡萄园健康多了，酒的 滋味就更不用比了。”

“Mt Egmont from Koru Road,” watercolor and pencil 29 x 30 cm, by Toss Woollaston

When the orchardist decided to sell, Philip and Chan immediately took an option on the land, although they lacked the resources to develop it. “I need a millionaire,” Philip told a friend, the well-known local artist Jane Evans.

A week later Evans phoned Philip: “I think I’ve found your millionaire.” He was American Glen Schaeffer and he shared Philip’s love of art, fine wine and the beautiful Nelson landscape. As soon as he visited the proposed vineyard and winery site, Schaeffer was convinced.

In 2001 they bought the land and established 50 hectares of vineyards on the 65-hectare site, with a four-level winery that nestles into the hillside with a grass-covered roof. Grapes enter the winery at the highest point and are transformed as they work their way down to the lowest level, where the wine is bottled.

Woollaston is an organic, biodymanic winery. “I believe that the world’s most interesting wines have a high percentage of organic, biodynamic wines amongst them,”

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explains Philip. “I think that organic vineyards are healthier than those that use herbicides, fungicides and insecticides and that the wines simply taste better.”

My favorite Woollaston wines are Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir with Riesling a very close third. Over the years, the winery has consistently produced outstanding examples of all three varieties, with quality tracking up as the vineyards age and as Woollaston’s innovative winemaker, Shane Munn, discovers how to get the best out of each vineyard and vintage.

Visitors to the winery enjoy more than the chance to sample some of Nelson’s finest wines. They can view world-class sculptures in a scenic vineyard setting as well as enjoy a dynamic public exhibition program in the gallery adjoining the tasting room.

The gallery sells and promotes quality work by established and emerging contemporary New Zealand and international artists like Niki Hastings McFall, Darryn George, Elizabeth Thomson, Dick Frizzell, and, of course, Toss Woollaston.

In addition to sculptures commissioned and owned by Woollaston Estates, several artworks from Glenn Schaeffer’s private collection are on display within the winery or visible from the courtyard and lawn. His art interest focuses on modern and post-modern art with an emphasis on American minimalism. Sculptures displayed on the winery grounds include Marté Szirmay’s magnificent “Yantra for Mahana” and Andrew Drummond’s “Cascade.” Visible from the courtyard are “Vertical Form, Counter Rotating,” also by Andrew Drummond, and Christine Boswijk’s “Totems for a Vineyard.”

In the cellars on the ground floor of the winery are Bill Culbert’s neon installation, “Seven Cs,” Neil Dawson’s “Mahana Dome” and two superb tapestries by American artist Ed Moses, as well as three pieces by Auckland painter Noel Ivanoff. These works are accessible to the public when the cellars are used for functions or open for special events.

Go for the wine and enjoy the art. Or go for the art and don’t forget to try the wine.

Woollaston winery and vineyard

NEIL SMITH

Woollaston酒厂和葡萄园

2001 年他买下这块 65 公顷的地，其中 50 公顷作为葡萄园，同时依傍丘陵盖了座 四层楼的酿酒厂，屋顶全以绿草覆盖，独 树一格。葡萄送进厂时位于酒厂顶端，后 借重力往下落、历经一道道关卡转换酿制， 抵达最底层后封存酒瓶。 Woollaston 酒厂一切依靠自然动力、有 机运作，Philip 自豪表示 ： 「说到引人入胜 的世界美酒，有机和自然动力酿造的葡萄 酒一定占了绝大部分。相较使用除草剂、 杀菌剂和杀虫剂的庄园，有机葡萄园健康 多了，酒的滋味就更不用比了。」 Woollaston 的酒要排名的话，灰皮诺 和黑皮诺一定是前两名，雷司令以些微差 距排第三。多年来随着 Woollastan 葡萄园 种植年份的增长，以及当家酿酒人 Shane Munn 顺应不同庄园及葡萄酒创新研发的 必胜模式，使这三大葡萄种酿制的酒可说 支支都是品质保证。 来访酒厂的观光客不仅可以品尝尼尔 森地区首屈一指的佳酿，也能在天然美景 般的庄园看到世界级雕塑作品，一访品酒 室旁的艺廊，欣赏极具渲染力的展览佳作。 艺廊里展售成名和新兴当代纽西兰及国际 艺术家的作品，包括 Niki Hastings McFal、

Private art gallery in Glen Schaeffer’s house Glen Schaeffer的私人美术馆

Darryn George、Elizabeth Thomson、Dick Frizzell，当然还有 Toss Woollaston。 除了 Woollaston 庄园托管及拥有的雕 塑品外，Glenn Schaeffer 私人收藏的艺术 作品也在酒厂内展示，另从庭园及草坪也 都能一睹艺术品之美。他的藏品以现代及 后现代作品为大宗，且独钟美国极简主义 雕塑。酒厂广场展示的是 Marté Szirmay 气 势 恢 宏 的「Yantra for Mahana」 及 Andrew Drummond 的「Cascade」， 从 庭 园 可 以 看 到 的「Vertical Form, Counter Rotating」

也 是 出 自 Drummond 之 手， 另 一 件 则 是 Christine Boswijk 的 创 作「Totems for a Vineyard ( 葡萄园图腾 )」。一楼的酒窖区可 以欣赏 Bill Culbert 的霓虹装置作品「Seven Cs」、Neil Dawson 的「Mahana Dome」、 美国艺术家 Ed Moses 两件精彩的拼布作品 以及奥克兰画家 Noel Ivanoff 的三件画作。 一般民众于酒窖使用期间或特别活动开放 时期均可一睹作品的风采。 来品酒顺道欣赏艺术吧 ；或为艺术而 来，同时别忘了一尝美酒也行！ appetite for art

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food art

平凡中的不平凡

illuminating the everyday When committing humble produce to canvas, Dutch still-life painter Adriaen Coorte imbued it with meaning and luminous beauty.

THOUGH LONG DEAD, Dutch still-life specialist Adriaen Coorte

荷兰静物画大师 Adriaen Coorte 在世时未

is relatively new to fame. Coorte was painting, and probably

曾大红大紫，直到最近才又翻红。 Coorte

also living, in Middleburg, Netherlands, at the turn of the

活跃于 17 与 18 世纪之交，据传曾住在荷

18th century. At the peak of his powers, his paintings were

兰米德尔堡，作画为生。 Coorte 全盛时期

anachronisms. The Dutch Golden Age, during which time still-

正好遇到以静物画为主力的荷兰黄金时期

life painting was most popular, was coming to a close and only

没落之际，当时继续坚持正统画法的画家

a few painters were still producing canvases in the tradition.

所剩无几。 Coorte 可说生不逢时，在世时

Coorte’s art works weren’t celebrated by his contemporaries,

作品未获赏识，或许因而生平鲜为人知，

which is likely why so little is known today of his life, and it

直到 20 世纪人们才重新发现其作品之美。 静物画约在 17 世纪蔚为风

wasn’t until the 20th century that his work was rediscovered.

For much of the 17th century, the appetite of the Dutch middle and upper classes for still-

BY

流阶级可说求画若渴，造就了欣

KATE NICHOLSON

欣向荣的艺术市场。当时经济大

life painting was close to insatiable. The demand

好、前所未见，都市新富阶级兴

that sustained a thriving art market was driven by

起，享乐主义式的生活席卷全国。

mostly urban populations that, in a time of unprecedented

收藏家藏画毫不手软，文具、新鲜捕获的

economic prosperity, were leading increasingly epicurean lives.

鲱鱼到郁金香等一一成为画布上的主题。

Collectors clamored for densely-packed canvases in which

静物画悉心表框后便是华美的展示品，通

everything from stationery to caught herrings to tulips were

常高挂私人宅邸的墙上，供家族成员及宾

realistically depicted. These usually luxurious presentations

客观赏。

would go on to adorn the walls of private residencies, admired by family members and guests alike.

大抵来说，Coorte 拒绝走前辈以豪奢 宴会、花卉或虚无系列为静物画主题的老

For the most part, Coorte rejected the popular lavish

路，相较当时较为传统的前期作品，多是

banquet, floral and vanitas still-life paintings produced by his

充满社会或宗教价值相关的经济象征及暗

Bunches of Grapes (1705)

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ADRIAEN COORTE © BRIDGEMAN IMAGES

潮，近百年未歇，荷兰中产及上

food art

­predecessors. While other, earlier works in the tradition over-

喻而言，许多学者认为，Coorte 以单一蔬

flow with economic symbolism and allusions to social and reli-

菜或水果为题的作品并未隐含深入的哲学

gious moralities, most scholars believe that Coorte, whose can-

思考。然而为什么如此朴实无华的笔触却

vases are usually dedicated to a single vegetable or fruit, was

能引发观者如此强烈的情感，引人入胜且

unconcerned with deep philosophies. Why is it, then, that his

惊叹不已？ Coorte 有个特殊能力 ：总能在市场菜

Coorte had a rare ability: he could take a humble veg-

摊一堆蔬菜水果中，锁定一个不起眼的目

etable or piece of fruit, isolate it from the jumble of produce

标，赋予超凡、鲜明的特色。在 1703 年的

on a market stall table and imbue it with an otherworldly vivid

油画作品「芦笋」中，Coorte 对画中那一

sense of character. In his painting Asparagus , an oil on canvas

捆芦笋倾注全力，与其他静物画家描绘昂

dated 1703, he treats a cluster of asparagus with the same

贵的银制餐具或高价中国瓷器的用心毫无

devotion that other still-life painters gave to expensive silver

二致。「芦笋」中的光线运用令人叹为观止，

tableware or highly-prized Chinese porcelain. Coorte’s treat-

主体白茎有如沐浴在圣光中，弱嫩的青绿

ment of light here is masterful. Not only is the bunch bathed

笋尖也根根分明，暧暧内含光。同样高段

from above in almost holy rays but each fragile green spear

的光影画法在他 1705 年的「葡萄串」也看

also seems illuminated from within. In a similar albeit more

得到，只是笔触更为细腻，一颗颗葡萄就

subtle way, the berries in his Bunch of Grapes (1705) resemble

像闪耀的宝石，熟成饱满、像随时会爆出

glowing gems, so ripe they’re fit to burst.

美味的汁液一般。

Middleburg was once a base for the lens-making industry.

米德尔堡曾有一度是显微镜片制造业

With his hyper-realistic depictions of botanical subjects,

的大本营，或许 Coorte 超写实的植物画作

perhaps Coorte was simply painting for the market, trying

就是以此为目标，希望获得追求科学精准

to appeal to a collector base that prized scientific accuracy.

细节的藏家青睐。但不管意图为何，他的

Whatever his motives were, his achievement is profound.

成就确实是毋庸置疑的。 Coorte 运用对日

With his devoted treatment of everyday goods, he hints at

常用品的描绘，暗指其背后整个生态体系，

the ecosystem behind it; with his penetrating gaze he takes

随着极具穿透力的笔触，观者跟着他的脚

the viewer from garden to market to dining table. What may

步游历，从花园到市场、再回到餐桌。看

seem to be nothing more than copies of common produce

似平凡无奇的农作物－一捆半枯的芦笋、

– a bundle of slightly wilted asparagus, a bunch of ready-

放在桌上可供食用的一堆葡萄，都摇身一

to-eat grapes on a table – succeed also as quiet, dignified

变成为对大自然、食物以及人们付出心力

celebrations of nature, sustenance and human endeavor.

的礼赞，静默却充满敬意。

Asparagus (1703)

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ADRIAEN COORTE © BRIDGEMAN IMAGES

bare depictions elicit such strong feelings of intrigue and awe?

Imperial Platter Shrimp morphs into the body of a dragonfly, its back streaked with blueberry mayonnaise. Blintzes are cut into wings for a caviar butterfly. Abalone is sectioned to resemble a plump bee. Crisp pork skin is cut into flowers hiding rich meat, perched along a cherry branch drawn on the plate with barbecue sauce, its blossoms made of beet juice and spring onion oil. It’s presented on a white plate with what looks like the brush that was just used to do the painting, but the brush – surprise! – is made of foie gras. 银河皇殿照晖影 虾子化身为蜻蜓的模样，背上以蓝莓沙拉酱画出条 纹，帕尼尼饼切成一片片翅膀，以蘸取排列成蝴蝶 形状的鱼子酱。鲍鱼被刻画为一只硕大的蜜蜂，盘 边的脆猪皮切成花朵，下方则是肉质丰厚的猪肉。 一旁以烤肉酱汁画上樱花枝条，用甜菜根酱汁、春 葱炒油画上樱花，盛装料理的盘子像是白色调色盘， 旁边摆着一支像是用来绘画的画笔，但令人惊喜的 是，这枝画笔其实是以鹅肝作成的。

presented by galaxy macau

宴会艺术

� he Art of the �anquet

EDMON LEONG

At Galaxy Macau, chefs turn traditional banquet dishes into artistic masterpieces.

Steamed Spotted Grouper Roll with Lotus Root Spotted grouper swims atop a pool of egg white custard amidst plump morsels of sea urchin and a vivid orange purée of pumpkin and urchin. Resembling a koi pond, it is framed like a Chinese painting, with characters drawn with squid ink, poetically describing the scene.

A streak of beet juice adds another pleasing jolt of color. 鱼跃河塘耀胆色 点带石斑鱼悠游在炖蛋白酱作成的池子里，池里还有肥厚的海胆，以 及澄橘色的南瓜海胆酱，活脱脱是个鲤鱼池，盘周的边饰让整道料理 看起来有如一幅中国山水画，以墨鱼汁代颜料画上人物，传达画中的

EDMON LEONG, COURTESY OF GALAXY MACAU

诗意，此外甜菜根汁又为这幅画增添一抹红霞，实在是赏心悦目。

presented by galaxy macau

A PLATTER OF BARBECUE, abalone, and other appetizers.

一个盛装着烤肉、鲍鱼等开胃菜的大浅盘，边上还

Bird’s nest with crab claw and scallop broth. Steamed

有燕窝蟹钳配干烧扇贝、蒸石斑佐莲藕和人蔘红枣

grouper with lotus root. Ginseng and red date pastry. At a

糕。这几道菜，都是各种婚礼宴会上的常见料理，

glance, these dishes are familiar, welcome additions to any

再平凡不过。

banquet menu.

但在「澳門銀河™」宴会厅中，平凡的菜色却

But at a banquet at Galaxy Macau™, what arrives is

变得极不平凡 ：开胃菜拼盘成了汇聚各种迷你生物

anything but typical: The starters appear as a menagerie

的动物园，燕窝上点缀的茉莉花是以扇贝巧妙雕刻

of tiny insects. A jasmine blossom atop the bird’s nest is

而成的，石斑鱼这道菜俨然是

actually a scallop. The grouper is presented like a painting.

一幅山水画，更令人眼前一亮

What looks like a whole ginseng root is made of pastry.

的是，甜点是具有人蔘外型的

Employing imagination, cleverness, and superb skill,

糕点。

Richard Stuart, Assistant Vice President of Culinary, and

「澳門銀河」助理副总裁

Simon Tho Chee Siang, Executive Chef, are able to transform

— 厨 务 餐 饮 施 启 华（Richard

the familiar into the unexpected.

Stuart）与中餐行政总厨涂志

“He’s very artistic, he’s very creative,” says Chef Stuart of his colleague.

But these creations aren’t just the result of the chef’s whim.

“It’s very important, for example for a wedding couple who want to design their menu,” says Stuart. “The chef plays a role, to understand what the guest profile is, what

Assistant Vice President of Culinary, Galaxy Macau Richard Stuart

祥（Simon Tho）齐力发挥创意、 巧思和精湛厨艺，让常见的料 理充满意想不到的惊喜。 「 他 很 有 艺 术 品 味， 脑 子 里总有一堆新点子。」Richard Stuart 对 Simon Tho 赞不绝口。 这些创意可不只是厨师一时的突发奇想。

they’re looking for. I think it’s also important to understand

「以婚宴为例，新人会想要自己设 Stuart 认为 ：

[the guest’s] childhood experience. There might be some

计菜单，这对他们来说很重要，而厨师的职责在于

favorites they have that they want us to bring back, and we

掌握客户的背景概况和需求，而且我认为有必要了

can try to integrate those into the menu.”

解客户的童年经验，也许他们会希望我们重现记忆

While the designs are elaborate, they aren’t achieved

中的美味，所以在设计菜单时，这些都要列入考量。」

through artifice. Virtually everything on the plate is edible.

「澳門銀河」的料理设计精致无比，却并非透过

No additives or molds are used to achieve the forms, only

装饰技巧达成，盘中出现的所有材料均可食用，这

cooking technique and knife skills. The ingredients are

里的大厨从不会只为追求外观而加入任何添加品或

presented in unexpected ways, but remain themselves.

模型，料理的华美外观完全归功于高超厨艺与刀工，

As Chef Stuart puts it, the principles of good cooking

食材呈现方式令人耳目一新，但仍然​​保有原味。

are not abandoned for the sake of design: “If you have a

诚如大厨 Stuart 所言，不应为了外观设计而牺

great product, you shouldn’t have to do too much to it. You

牲料理准则，他认为 ： 「如果你的料理够好，就不

just need to enhance it slightly and then the product will

需要太多加工，只要稍微改善一下细节，接着就能

talk for itself. I’m a great believer in having three, four, five

让料理自己说话。我一直坚持的理念是，每道料理

ingredients, that’s it.”

选用三到五种食材便已足够。」

When guests wake up the next day, Chefs Stuart and

Stuart 和 Tho 希望宾客隔天一早醒来时，还能

Tho want them to remember what they had to eat at Galaxy

记得前晚在「澳門銀河」品尝过的料理，其实，让

Macau. With dishes like these, that shouldn’t be a problem.

人如此惊艳的美馔佳肴，想要忘记可不容易。

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presented by galaxy macau

← Bird’s Nest and Crab Claw with Dried Scallop Beer Broth Snow white bird’s nest is topped with a meaty crab claw and what looks like a jasmine blossom. It’s actually a dried scallop, carefully sliced and splayed.

Upon service, a broth of beer and imperial stock is poured into the bowl, bringing it to life. 燕液金泉菊满园 雪白的燕窝上方是一只肉丰爪实的蟹钳， 还有一朵看似盛开的茉莉花，其实是干 烧扇贝经过巧妙切割并展开而成，上菜 时再淋上啤酒酱汁和高汤，眼前就出现 一朵轻舒花瓣、活灵活现的茉莉花了。

→ Ginseng and Red Date Pastry with Honey Delicate pastry is formed so that it looks uncannily like ginseng, the main ingredient in its filling. Coarse golden sugar creates a sandy landscape. A tiny blossom is perched on the edge of the plate, but a closer look reveals that the flower is the tip of a raspberry, and the leaves are mint, translucent and crisp after a quick fry. 蜂皇枣泥人参酥 糕点外形仿照人蔘形状，逼真程度令人 惊异，而人蔘也是糕点中最主要的内 盘中淋成一片沙景，盘边缀饰一朵小 花， 近看才发现， 花瓣是覆盆子尖端排成， 而叶片则是经过快炒后呈现透明色泽 的酥脆薄荷叶。

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EDMON LEONG (2)

馅材料，带有结晶颗粒的金黄蜂蜜在

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presented by mandarin oriental, macau

ONE OF THE SECRETS to Chef Dominique Bugnand’s success is that he does not hesitate to cook what he loves. He has confidence in his own taste, and that confidence animates him to share. “I won’t cook something that I don’t like,” he says. “I don’t feel I can do it justice.”

Serving only dishes he himself loves to eat allows Chef Dominique to cook with great honesty. There is no guesswork as to whether a dish has succeeded or not. He simply asks himself: do I love this, or not? It’d all be for naught if his confidence in his own good taste was misplaced, but, luckily for every diner who winds up at Vida Rica Restaurant at Mandarin Oriental, Macau, Chef Dominique has all kinds of reasons to be confident.

As complicated and ambitious as his dishes are, they are never overcomplicated, never fussy. Without appearing to show off, they grab your attention and pull you into the present moment. Can food be simultaneously spectacular and humble, simultaneously simple and subtle? In Chef Dominique’s kitchen it can be, and this is true both of his flavors and of the way he presents food on the plate.

“I want to give customers the wow factor,” says Dominique. “If the food looks good, your mouth responds immediately, your heart starts beating faster and you might even lick your lips.… If it is too messy or complicated looking, your mind gets confused too.”

Dominique is a master of deceptively simple plating patterns that have a discovered rather than a designed feel. His plated dishes do have that wow factor. They appeal with lovely shapes and colors and unexpected touches, while always remaining tempting as delicious food. The food might be beautiful, but there is no Dominique Bugnand, question of leaving it too Director of Culinary Operations long on the plate. and Food and Beverage at

心有厨道 胸有成竹

confident cooking At Mandarin Oriental, Macau’s Vida Rica Restaurant, Chef Dominique Bugnand focuses on the dishes he loves best, and his love for the food he cooks is contagious.

Mandarin Oriental, Macau

DAVID HARTUNG

澳门文华东方酒店厨艺及 餐饮总监贝铭乐先生

总厨贝铭乐成功的一大秘 诀，在于他勇于烹调自己所 爱的美食。他对个人的品味深具信心，也因此相当愿意与人 分享 ： 「我只煮自己喜欢的料理，否则无法真正展现食物的 美味。」 由于总厨煮的都是自己爱吃的料理，因此烹调过程就是 真诚面对自己。他不用瞎猜料理是否成功，只需问自己 ：我 喜不喜欢？若他的自信只是空穴来风，便不会有这番成就， 但澳门文华东方酒店御苑餐厅的客人可以放心，因为这位总 厨的自信其来有自。 尽管他的料理变化丰富、挑战性高，却绝不会显得过于 繁复或琐碎。一道道佳肴不但无炫技之虞，还能抓住客人的 目光 , 带客人进入美味的氛围。食物有可能既华丽又朴实， 既简单又细致吗？贝铭乐总厨就办得到，无论是风味或摆盘 都可以有超乎水准的表现。 总厨表示 ： 「我希望给客人惊喜。如果菜肴的卖相诱人， 你的嘴巴立即会分泌唾液，心跳也会跟着加速，甚至会想舔 舔嘴唇。如果看起来很凌乱或复杂，客人也会觉得莫名其妙。」 贝铭乐总厨擅长的摆盘方式看似简单，却往往让人耳目 一新，不会有矫揉造作之感 ；盘上的佳肴令人拍案叫绝，如 精致形状，色彩与随性的笔触，引人食指大动，且能保持食 物的美味。料理美固美矣，但在盘上的「寿命」不会太久。 appetite for art

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Rack of Lamb. Chef Dominique uses an old French cooking method and steams his rack of lamb in hay. Using hay is all about adding flavor: it adds a delightfully earthy and smoky taste while keeping the meat tender. Served with seasonal vegetables, it’s a dish rooted in family tradition. “After the harvest I used to watch my grandfather preparing the hay and the meat in a big pot,” says Chef Dominique. “He would marinate it with red wine for a day and then put it on the fire to cook.” 烤羊架配蜜汁蔬菜及羊肉汁：贝铭乐总厨运用传统 法式烹调方式，以稻草蒸煮羊架，借此添加大地与 烟熏的风味，同时保有软嫩的肉质，另佐以时蔬， 整道菜深刻反映了家族传统。总厨表示：「小时 候，我常看祖父把稻草和羊排放入大锅中，然后浸 在红酒中腌上一天，最后再用火烤。」

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presented by mandarin oriental, macau

→ Poached Boston Lobster with Lobster Jelly, Cauliflower Mousse and Sturia Caviar. One of Chef Dominique’s freshest and most elegant dishes, the lobster is served with only lemon, olive oil and salt and pepper. “We really use the whole lobster,” he says. “We boil the lobster and remove the shell. With the shell we make the stock and with the stock we make the jelly.” 波士顿龙虾卷配海鲜啫喱, 鱼籽酱及香脆龙虾籽：贝铭乐总厨 的拿手绝活，风味新鲜且外观典雅。龙虾只以柠檬、橄榄油、 盐和胡椒调味。他说：「我们充分运用整只龙虾，先煮熟后剥 壳，把壳拿来煮高汤，最后再将高汤制成龙虾啫喱。」

← Escargot. Traditionally served with garlic and parsley butter, Chef Dominique has upped the ante with this escargot dish by adding puff pastry rounds, crispy quinoa, and a red wine sauce with mushroom and bacon. “This is a real Bourguignon sauce,” he says. “We still have the garlic and parsley butter on the snails and the pastry, but this sauce just adds another dimension.” 蒜蓉牛油蜗牛配香草叶绿素啫喱, 藜麦沙律及白蒜珠：传统上会佐以 香芹大蒜奶油，而贝铭乐总厨更是加码，加上层层酥皮、脆口藜麦， 并淋上拌有蘑菇与培根的红酒酱汁。他说：「这是纯正的红酒酱汁， 香芹大蒜奶油当然少不了，但这个酱汁更增添另一层风味。」

→ All About Beef. Chef Dominique knows it can be tough to choose from a great variety of beef cuts, so here he serves up three of his personal favorites: wagyu strip loin steak with shallot sauce, beef tongue with gribiche sauce, and braised beef cheek and carrot mashed with orange dust and grilled shallot banana. By cooking only what he loves, Chef Dominique throws the door wide open for customers to also fall in love with his food. 和牛西冷扒配烤乾蔥及乾蔥汁,燴牛脷及牛面肉甘筍蓉及配燒汁：贝铭乐总厨 很清楚，牛肉部位繁多，挑选并非易事，所以他端出三道最爱的菜色：澳洲 和牛前腰脊肉佐红葱酱、牛舌佐蛋黄酱（gribiche），以及炖牛颊佐红萝卜、 碎橙皮与烤长红葱。总厨坚持烹调自己喜爱的料理，因而愿意敞开大门，让 客人也爱上他的手艺。

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DAVID HARTUNG (5)

Pan-seared Scallops with Pumpkin Puree, Roasted Pumpkin, Girolle Mushrooms and Black Truffle. “This is a kind of surf and turf,” says Chef Dominique. “You have the surf in the scallop, and the truffle gives it that powerful earthy flavor.” A bold, colorful dish of white, black and orange, the pan-seared scallops are finished off with roasted and caramelized chestnuts. 香煎帶子配南瓜蓉, 烤南瓜, 雞油菌及黑松露汁：贝铭乐总厨表示： 「这道可以算是海陆餐。带子带来海鲜味，松露则有浓烈的大地风味。」 香煎带子黑、白、橙相间，用色鲜艳大胆，上头缀以焦糖烤栗子。

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Strawberry Consommé, Sweet Potato, Fennel 草莓糖水，香草甜薯

presented by banyan tree macau

味蕾之旅

a journey of tastes At Banyan Tree Macau, Belon’s new degustation menu has been crafted to welcome diners to summer.

EDMON LEONG (2)

Robby S., Chef de Cuisine at Belon 贝隆餐厅厨师长石志云

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presented by banyan tree macau

“THE NEW MENU is all about summer,” says Robby S., Chef de Cuisine at Belon, Banyan Tree Macau’s signature restaurant. “Clean and refreshing flavors, fresh seafood, prime quality cuts of meat with seasonal fruits and vegetables. The dishes start off very light and get more complex as you work your way through – a real journey of tastes.”

The tasting menu includes mouthwatering dishes such as truffle tagliolini with mushrooms, and red prawns with zucchini flower and lobster bisque. “The flower is stuffed with scallops and prawn and poached in fish stock for extra flavor,” says Chef Robby. “The bisque gives it a nutty taste and tempura of seaweed gives the dish texture.”

The pigeon breast with chocolate and foie gras was inspired by the Chinese tradition of serving pigeon with star anise powder. “I wanted to keep the dipping technique but it needed a Western twist,” says Robby.

“Chocolate is perfect as it gives a bitterness and creaminess, and the foie gras ash gives it the smokiness.”

For a theatrical touch, some of the dishes are prepared tableside. Hokkaido scallops, for example, are seared on a slab of hot Himalayan sea salt and served with truffleinfused quinoa.

“The menu is really based on things I would like to eat during the summer,” says Robby. “Everyone has their summer cravings, so I worked from those ideas.”

A selection of summery desserts, including a chocolate pistachio tart and strawberry consommé with sweet potato and fennel, offer perfect ways to finish satisfying those summer season cravings.

Sous Vide Pigeon Breast, Chocolate, Foie Gras Ash

EDMON LEONG (2)

慢煮乳鸽胸，巧克力粉，鸭肝

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Chocolate Pistachio Tart, Salted Caramel 开心果朱古力挞

贝隆是澳门悦榕庄酒店的特色海鲜及烧烤食 「新料 府。厨师长石志云 (Robby S.) 表示 ； 理以夏天为主题，主打简单清爽的风味，有 鲜美的海鲜食材、搭配季节蔬果及优质的肉 排。掀开菜单序幕的料理口味较清新明亮， 接踵而来的将给味蕾带来逐渐丰富的层次 感，这就是真正的味觉之旅。 」别具风格的 菜色道道令人垂涎三尺，包括松露蘑菇天使 面、红虾酿黄金节瓜花佐诺伊斯氏汁。石师 傅说 ： 「节瓜花里酿入带子和红虾，并以鲜 鱼高汤炖煮，滋味更是一绝，而浓汤中的坚 果味配上海带天妇罗足以让料理的口感更为 鲜明。 」 另一道以乳鸽胸肉搭配巧克力秘方与 鹅肝末的料理凭为引人注目。这道料理的灵 感源自中式传统乳鸽料理的概念，加入了八 角粉。石师傅表示 ： 「我想保留传统的腌制 方法，同时加入西方烹调元素。而巧克力带 有苦甜味，口感顺滑，鹅肝则能增添烟熏风 味，是相附相成的配搭。 」 为了于用餐时加添戏剧效果，有些料 理会于桌边即席烹制，比如北海道鲜带子会 在喜玛拉雅盐板上炙烧，上菜时再搭配黑松 露和藜麦种子。石师傅说 ： 「新品尝菜单的 料理都是基于我自己在夏天时想吃的东西而 创作出来的。其实每个人在夏天都有特别渴 望的美食，这就是我的灵感来源。 」除此之 外，还有多款夏日精选甜品，如开心果巧克 力塔、草莓糖水佐香草甜薯等，替这埸味蕾 的缤纷之旅画上完美的句点。

Hubert Chabot

presented by g.h. mumm

美酒于室

mumm at pierre

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

At Pierre in the Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, TK recently hosted a special spring dinner featuring dishes by Pierre Gagnaire paired with a carefully chosen selection of G.H. Mumm Champagnes.

CHEF JEAN-DENIS LE BRAS and sommelier Hubert Chabot worked closely with legendary chef Pierre Gagnaire, the restaurant’s owner and namesake, to create the menu.

“First we have an idea of what we want to do. Later, we taste the Champagne. After that we think about some dishes and we call Pierre Gagnaire,” explains Le Bras. “Pierre creates everything. I just try to do perfectly what he has asked me.”

But, he adds, “The star of the evening is the wine.”

Some of the dishes are classics from the Pierre Gagnaire repertoire, some were created just for this dinner, and others come from Pierre’s current menu, which is firmly planted in the season.

“Mumm, it’s a very traditional and old Champagne house. Their style is usually something very delicate, pure,” says Chabot. “[It’s a] delicate, fine style, elegant, so spring products go very well for sure.”

“Champagne naturally works well with spring flavors. In winter, I would be more stressed,” says le Bras with a laugh. “I tasted a Mumm Blanc de Blancs, and it was perfect with the Sea Garden. Fresh, crispy – a great match. Straightaway it was working.”

Sea Garden is the first dish of the evening, a briny, refreshing mix of sea urchin, shrimp, lightly pickled cauliflower and

主 厨 Jean-Denis le Bras、 侍 酒 师 Hubert Chabot 与 传 奇 大 厨 兼 Pierre 餐 厅 创 办 人 Pierre Gagnaire 合作无间地研发了这套菜单。 le Bras 解释道： 「我们事先心中都有了谱， 开始试喝香槟，进而结合 Pierre Gagnaire 的 经典菜色。Pierre 是餐厅一切的始祖，我则 尽力做到完美以达到他的要求。 」 不过，他补充道 ： 「晚宴真正的主角是香 槟。 」 菜色包括沿用部分 Pierre Gagnaire 的招 牌菜，以及为晚宴特制的佳肴，其他则挑 选自 Pierre 现有菜单菜色，且一律采用当季 食材。 Chabot 表示 ： 「Mumm 是家历史悠久的 香槟酒厂。口感相当细致、甘醇。如此出 众又优雅的香槟，非常适合在春宴推出。 」 Le Bras 笑着说 ： 「香槟本身很搭春天的 口 味。 但 冬 天 我 可 就 焦 虑 了。 我 试 尝 了 Mumm Blanc de Blancs 搭配海鲜拼盘 — Sea Garden。正是新鲜与酥脆 — 绝配！他们是 无须犹豫的绝佳组合。 」 Sea Garden 是晚宴的第一道菜，主厨精 选海胆、鲜虾、海带与轻淡腌渍的花椰菜 谱出海洋咸味的清爽，正是无添加盐、散 发出海菜自然的咸味 , 令人垂涎欲滴。再佐 以「G.H. Mumm Blanc de Blancs」 ，这款香 槟由单一葡萄品种酿制 , 带有入口即溶的泡 沫与多层次的葡萄酒风味，颇具特色。 第二道菜橘香海鲈继续以「G.H. Mumm Blanc de Blancs」搭配，佐以新鲜碗豆、培 根丁以及迷你沙丁鱼莴苣球。这道招牌以 野菜香盛名远播，内含酢浆草，让人齿颊

Blue lobster aiguillettes, piquillos sauce, rhubarb, enoki mushroom and Champagne cubes 蓝龙虾佐红椒酱，伴大黄， 金菇及香槟果冻

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Chefs Jean-Denis Le Bras and Pierre Gagnaire

kombu. There is no salt added; all of it comes naturally from the sea vegetables. It’s paired with G.H. Mumm’s Blanc de Blancs, a single vineyard Champagne with a soft, creamy mousse and complex flavor.

The Blanc de Blancs carries over to the next course of sea bass, gently cured in citrus, with fresh peas, lardons, and a tiny parcel of lettuce stuffed with sardines. The dish is crowned with a laurel of wild herbs, including oxalis, which releases a citrusy burst when eaten.

“I don’t use herbs for decoration, I use herbs for tasting,” says Le Bras.

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Lobster, a classic partner to Champagne, is now gently poached and served with a sauce of roasted piquillo peppers from the Pays Basque and a medley of little vegetables: enoki mushroom tops, celery and crisp mangetout. The stronger flavors and richness of the lobster here are a match for G.H. Mumm’s more structured Le Rosé, which is also used to make the cubes of gelée that garnish the dish.

Morels with cream and vin jaune, a spring classic, gets an update, served over a bright mix of cooked and raw carrots, asparagus, apricot and orange paste. This is paired

with G.H. Mumm’s Grand Cru Brut Sélection, a fresh and subtly-flavored blend.

For the final savory course, a G.H. Mumm Millésimé 2006 accompanies a morsel of tender veal from Parisian butcher Hugo Desnoyer. It’s served with a bit of onion cream, beet purée, and what is essentially a warm salad of rocket, artichokes and celery, tossed with the pan juices from the meat and some lemon juice.

“A red wine sauce would be too strong with Champagne. We wanted to keep something more vegetal,” says Le Bras. “I’ve got all the vegetables almost raw, to make something very close to the Champagne, very natural, no stock, no strong flavor. It’s very tasty, very intense, but not overpowering.”

Even dessert has a slightly vegetal note, with finely sliced raw rhubarb and more oxalis balancing a sweet strawberry compote and vanilla-Kirsch pastry cream. More texture comes from a macaronnade (a kind of sablé cookie), and the buttermilk “snow” is tangy and refreshing.

“It’s a little earthy. The rhubarb is sour, but there’s a little taste of the earth. We don’t want to go for something very heavy,” Le Bras says.

While an all-Champagne menu defies the usual white-to-red convention somewhat, Chabot believes the G.H. Mumm Champagnes offer more than enough stylistic variety to carry an entire meal.

“Take a Blanc de Blancs or Brut Sélection – you do not need to have something complex with it because it’s quite fizzy, quite dry,” he says. “If you take a vintage Champagne, complex, vinous, creamy, with low pressure, you can use more complex dishes. Red meat, some could work if you take a rosé Champagne. It really depends on the Champagne.”

“There is a way to put Champagne with dishes and there is a time to consume them,” he says, adding one final piece of wisdom: “Don’t take a complex Champagne for breakfast.”

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

presented by g.h. mumm

Cured line-caught sea bass on a lace biscuit, garden peas, lardoons, stuffed lettuce with sardine rillettes 线钓海鲈鱼伴青豆，腌肉及生菜佐沙甸鱼酱

Sea Garden 海洋花园

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间充满浓郁的柑橘香。Le Bras 说 ： 「野菜并 非装饰，是增添风味的极佳品。 」 龙虾与香槟更是经典搭配，川烫龙虾蘸 以来自 Pays Basque 的烘焙西班牙红椒粉， 配上金针菇、芹菜与清脆嫩豌豆的综合野 菜。浓厚的菜香与多汁的龙虾刚好搭配甘 醇的「G.H. Mumm Le Rosé」 ， 让人眼前一亮。 它也可用来制作点缀摆盘的果冻。 经典的春之珍馐 — 羊肚蕈佐奶油黄酒酱 汁再度升级，配菜则是混合半生半熟的胡 萝卜、芦荀、杏仁与香橙酱。此菜与清新 可口的「G.H. Mumm Grand Cru Brut Sélection」堪称最佳搭档。 最 后 一 道 佳 肴 则 是 轻 啜 一 口「G.H. Mumm Millésimé 2006」 ，再啖一口巴黎火 红肉商 Hugo Desnoyer 精选的小牛肉，配上 洋葱泥、甜菜泥，更少不得用芝麻菜、朝鲜 蓟与芹菜淋上收锅肉汁与柠檬汁的温沙拉。 Le Bras 道 ： 「红酒酱汁配上香槟会过於 浓烈。我们要的是植物的清新原味。我尽 量使用生鲜蔬菜去迎合香槟本身的风味， 天然、无腌渍、无辛辣。十分可口清香但 又不重口味。 」 甚至甜点也带着淡淡野菜清香，细切片 的生大黄与酢浆草平衡了糖煮莓果与樱桃 酒酥皮派的甜味。酥饼 ( 一种奶油酥饼 ) 有 着丰富的口感，而酪乳「snow」则香气清 新扑鼻。 「它带点土味。大黄偏酸但可尝到泥土的 芬芳。我们不想要有太过刺激性的味道。 」 Le Bras 说。 全香槟菜单与常见的传统红、白酒菜肴 间的抗衡，使 Chabot 相信 G.H. Mumm 香 槟赋予供餐更多元的风格变化。 他说 ： 「如果你喝的是 Blanc de Blancs 或 Brut Sélection，菜色口味无需太复杂，因为 这种酒本身气泡多、口感极干。如果你喝 年份香槟，气味丰富、带葡萄酒香、绵密、 低压，便可搭多样性的菜色。红肉有时能 搭配粉红香槟。要视香槟本身而定。 」 他继续道 ： 「让香槟成为搭配主餐的饮品 自有方法，喝香槟也要考量时间性， 」最后 还提供了一项诀窍 ： 「千万别在早餐时喝混 合香槟。 」

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

presented by g.h. mumm

the intersection of art & cuisine

Alan Lo 罗扬杰

tasting notes

Dawn 春雲曉靄, 1968, 100.5 x 140 cm

飨艺汇聚

the intersection of art & cuisine World-class art and world-class cooking come together seamlessly at Duddell’s.

Alan Lo ( 罗 扬 杰 ) 与 餐 饮 界 名 人 Jenn

“ART LOVERS always end up talking about

Wong ( 黄佩茵 )，还有葡萄酒收藏家 Paolo food, which lends itself to this idea – a Pong ( 庞建贻 ) 于去年创立了都爹利会馆。 place where people can take both art and Alan 说 ： 「艺术爱好者在谈话间总会提到 food seriously,” says Alan Lo, who, along 有关美食的话题，因此有了这个灵感－创 with restaurant hitmaker Jenn Wong and 造一个可以让人们尽情畅谈艺术及美食的 wine collector Paolo Pong, opened Dud空间。」 dell’s last year. 这究竟是在艺廊内的餐厅 Is it a restaurant in gallery BY 还 是 餐 厅 内 的 艺 术 展 示 区？ space or a gallery space in a resBARBRA AUSTIN 「整体的设计理念主要是为了营 taurant? “The design concept 造出收藏家本身居住的空间氛 was to make a place that felt PHOTOGRAPHY BY 围。」Alan 解释道。 like a collector’s home,” explains DAVID HARTUNG 整 体 构 思 经 过 设 计 师 Ilse Mr. Lo. Crawford 的巧手打造下，创造 That vision was achieved with 出带有多样面貌的精致私人沙龙空间。艺 the help of designer Ilse Crawford, who cre术陈列品穿插其间，透露出自然真实的风 ated an interior that feels like a collection of 格。 Alan 表示，艺术作品与室内设计共创 chic private salons. Art is integrated through出许多有趣的「时刻」，并充分展现出会馆 out, in a way that feels organic rather than 主人，即虚拟的都爹利先生的独特性格。 staged. Mr. Lo says that the art and interior 展出内容由 Alan 及 Intelligence Square together “express very interesting ‘moments’

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tasting notes

Pan-Fried Fresh Crab Claw with Caviar 黑鱼子煎酿鲜蟹拑

的 Yana Peel、Para-site 的 Chrissy Sharp、 收藏家 William Zhao 共同策划。 Alan 说 ： 「展览项目主要由馆长带领， 同时会与其他艺术家及当地、国际级的策 展人接洽。五月份他们刚好与 Inti Guerrero 协力完成展出，接下来将与北京尤伦斯当 代艺术中心馆长 Philip Tinari 合作。」艺术 家艾未未也在去年策划举行展览。「幸运 的是我们发现，艺术家们对于能在香港参 展，特别是摆脱既有制式的白色空间都感 到相当兴奋，再加上我们本身对展览计划 的热情，得已让整个过程顺利进行。」 既然与国际级艺术家共同合作声势浩 大，这些展览势必能吸引不少观众，为何 还要再设置餐厅？ 「最初的构思是营造出收藏者的居家氛 围，而家对于我们来说也代表着广东料理。」 Alan 说道。 或许如此，但这里的菜肴当然和居家 料理大有不同，尤其是相当幸运地刚好有 一位米其林大厨就住在你家。主厨萧显志 曾任职于唐阁，专精于将传统菜肴加入更 浓郁的调味。主厨表示，这种调合后的口味， 更能吸引海外顾客。 都爹利会馆为非传统纯白立体空间， 同时也采用非传统纯白摆盘形式。许多餐

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厅偏好使用白色餐盘，如同无瑕的画布以 凸显料理 ；反观都爹利会馆，餐厅内使用 各种形状、色彩、作工及材质的瓷器来衬 托食材。主厨表示，他慎选搭配的餐盘， 让食物与食器得以相辅相成，彰显彼此特 色。 Alan 说 ： 「主厨对于料理的味道及呈现 有独到见解 … 可以解释为两个不同世界间 相互作用，如同有些艺术家在作品完成前 不希望曝光一样。在工作室里，艺术创作 者运用不同的材质、颜色及形态塑造作品 ； 而在厨房中，厨师则是运用视觉、嗅觉、 味觉及触觉来烹调料理。」 主厨的原则中，虽没有多余的诗情画 意，但每项要求都很坚持。其中一个要求 就是无论以何种形式摆盘，速度绝不可放 慢，必须确保料理呈现在客人面前时依然 保持其热度。 Alan 身为热情款待的东道主，希望所 有客人都能尽兴 ： 「都爹利会馆就是希望能 提供顾客开心聚会的场所，让他们尽情享 用美酒佳肴、欣赏艺术作品。若有人从中 获得灵感或是遇到志同道合的朋友，也是 一桩美事！」

Fried Fresh Lobster, Scallion and Shallots 香葱爆龙虾

Chef Siu Hin Chee 主厨萧显志

Crispy Salted Chicken 富贵盐香鸡

tasting notes

with the space and the personality of the invisible Mr. Duddell, master of the home.”

The exhibition program is run by Mr. Lo along with Yana Peel of Intelligence Square, Chrissy Sharp of Para-site and collector William Zhao.

“The exhibitions are curator-driven and we work with local, regional as well as international curators and artists. Inti Guerrero just completed an exhibition for us and in May, we will be working with Philip Tinari, Director of Beijing’s Ullens Center for Contemporary Art,” says Lo. Last year, Ai Wei Wei curated an exhibition. “Luckily we’ve found the artists to be excited about showing in Hong Kong and in a non-white-cube environment, and their enthusiasm, plus our own excitement about the project, makes it all work out.”

With this roster of international talent, the exhibits would draw an audience in any setting. Why bother with a restaurant?

“As the idea was to create a feeling of being in a collector’s home – home for us all is Cantonese cuisine,” says Mr. Lo. Perhaps, but this is far from home cooking, unless you’re lucky enough to share a roof with a Michelin-starred chef. Chef Siu Hin Chi, previously at T’ang Court, has found a sweet spot with cooking that is deeply traditional but infused with stronger flavors that, he says, appeal to an international clientele.

If Duddell’s is a “non-white-cube environment,” it’s also a non-white-plate environment. Whereas many restaurants have long favored white plates as a sort of blank canvas on which to present dishes, at Duddell’s the china comes in different shapes, colors, finishes and textures. Chef Siu says he carefully considers which plates to use, so that the food and the china complement each other.

“Chef Siu is very particular about both how the food tastes and how it is presented . . . That in itself can be seen as interplay between the two worlds, just like how an artist will not let anyone see his work until it is complete,” says Mr. Lo. “In a studio, artists use textures, colors

and forms to create a piece of art, while in the kitchen, a chef engages the faculties of sight, smell, taste, touch to create his masterpiece.”

Some of Chef Siu’s concerns are less poetic but no less important. He says one of the first requirements of any presentation is that it can be achieved quickly, so that the food is still hot when it reaches the table.

Like any good host, Mr. Lo just wants his guests to be happy: “At the end of the day, the venue lends itself to bringing people together to enjoy the space and to just have a good time through good drinks, good art and good food,” he says. “If people get inspired or meet like-minded people through art, that’s great too!”

Duddell’s 都爹利会馆

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舌尖上的毕卡索

Edible Picasso In a special collaboration between Ruinart Champagne and The Peninsula Hong Kong’s Felix, avant-garde dining meets fine art. Picasso never tasted so good.

BY CHRISTINA YUEN ZI CHUNG

•

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

tasting notes

“The Weeping Woman” by Pablo Ruiz y Picasso

THE WEEPING WOMAN, PABLO PICASSO © SUCCESSION PICASSO 2014; DAVID HARTUNG

The spicy chili-bean dressing, salted Iberico ham, pan-seared Spanish red prawn, and saffron risotto give this dish a dramatic combination of flavors and textures. The vivid colors of the Picasso painting and the artist’s Spanish roots are a clear reference. Said to be a portrait of Dora Maar, Picasso’s long-time muse and partner, the weeping woman’s eye, hair, and lips are recreated with squid ink paste. Her hot tears of paprika and red chili can be seen trailing down the side of the dish.

《哭泣的女人》 巴勃罗 · 毕加索 呛辣的辣豆酱、咸渍伊比 利火腿、干煎西班牙红虾及番 红花炖饭，加起来正是戏剧性极 强的美味及口感多重奏。这道菜以毕 卡索名画中的鲜艳色彩及画家的西班牙 出身背景为灵感来源。肖像画中的模特儿据 说就是毕卡索长年创作的缪思及最佳拍档 Dora

Maar，其哭泣的眼睛、头发及嘴唇以墨鱼酱表现， 斗大的滚烫泪珠则以辣椒粉及红辣椒制成，自餐盘一 旁流泄而下。

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Why look at a Picasso when you can taste one?

Chef Yoshiharu Kaji, renowned for his modern European cuisine, recently offered diners a chance to do just that with a special tasting menu at Felix.

Through his creative interpretation, the works of master artists including Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dali, and Claude Monet traveled from the canvas to the plate. Dishes were paired with Ruinart blanc de blancs and rosé Champagnes and the result was a five-course dining experience rich in story, color and flavor. • 毕卡索不用看的，用吃的如何？ 以创新欧洲料理闻名的日籍主厨加地吉治最近推出 特别菜单，让饕客们有机会用味蕾品评名画。在 他的创意发想下，艺术大师毕卡索、达利及莫内 作品中的名场景一一自画布跃上餐盘，搭配法国 名庄慧纳 (Ruinart)「白中白香槟 (blanc de blancs Champagne)」 及「 玫 瑰 香 槟 (rosé Champagne)」 一起享用。五道料理色香味俱全，故事性十足。

LA PERSISTENCIA DE LA MEMORIA, SALVADOR DALI © SALVADOR DALÍ, FUNDACIÓ GALA-SALVADOR DALÍ, VEGAP, HONG KONG, 2014; DAVID HARTUNG (2)

tasting notes

“La persistencia de la memoria” by Salvador Dali Chef Kaji recreates the iconic melting clocks from Dali’s surreal landscape with slices of apple that give a refreshing tartness to this appetizer. To fill the rest of the plate, he looked to Dali for inspiration. “Dali was a heavy smoker, so I put in a ‘used ashtray’ filled with fresh mango and created a fig chutney roll ‘cigarette.’

‘Lollipop’ refers to the Chupa Chups logo that Dali designed.” Kaji renders the lollipop with a duck liver terrine and curry mayo. A layer of passion fruit jelly delicately balances the smoky flavor of the terrine with sweet and sour accents. 《记忆的永恒》萨尔瓦多 · 达利 主厨利用苹果切片重现达利画作中，超现实场景里知名的融化时钟， 也让开胃菜带了点爽口的酸味。整体摆盘也是以达利为灵感来源， 主厨解释 ： 「达利是个老烟枪，所以我放了个『用过的烟灰缸』 ，里 面放进新鲜芒果，还用无花果甜酸酱卷了支『香烟』 ，而『棒棒糖』 」棒棒糖的原料是 代表的是达利设计的 Chupa Chups 棒棒糖商标。 鸭肝和咖喱美乃滋，最后再摆上一层百香果冻，酸甜口感正好与鸭 肝的烟熏味取得巧妙平衡。

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LES FILS DE L’HOMME’ RENE MAGRITTE © RENÉ MAGRITTE / ADAGP, PARIS - SACK , SEOUL , 2014; DAVID HARTUNG

tasting notes

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“Les Fils de L’homme”

by René Magritte Magritte’s whimsical influence on this dessert is instantly recognizable from the signature green apple and bowler hat, recreated with white and dark chocolate. The chocolate apple is placed on an almond cookie and encases a mini surprise: a mille-feuille layered with caramelized apple.

Caramel ice cream rounds off the dish with an extra dash of cool sweetness, making it a surefire hit with a bit of something for everyone.

《人类之子》雷尼 · 马格利特 加地主厨以拿手的甜点重新诠释比利 时超现实主义大师马格利特天马行空 的名作，画里的绿色苹果及黑色圆帽 以黑白巧克力呈现，让人看了会心一 笑。巧克力苹果置于杏仁饼干上，包 覆 着 小 小 的 惊 喜 ：焦 糖 苹 果 千 层 派。 盘缘点缀着焦糖冰淇淋，添加一股香 甜的爽快口感。这道甜点满足各种客 层所需，绝对会造成轰动。

“When I see this painting, I feel a sense of calm,” says Chef Kaji. The serenity of the water garden scene is translated into a minimalistic chicken consommé soup with stuffed Japanese chicken leg, lily boule, green peas, onion and a garnish of edible flowers. The use of Asian ingredients in this dish pays homage to Monet, whose work was influenced by Japanese art. Though Chef Kaji relies on the methods and techniques of European cuisine, he stays true to his roots by regularly using Japanese ingredients and elements in his dishes.

《睡莲》克洛德 · 莫内 谈到莫内的名画，加地主厨有感而发 ： 「这幅画让人觉得心灵平静。 」 画中花园的静谧氛围转化为充满极简风格的一道菜，鸡肉清汤佐以 日式鸡腿镶肉、莲花面包、豌豆及洋葱，再洒上食用花即大功告成。 莫内深受日本艺术的影响，因此主厨也特地在料理中加入亚洲食材， 表示致敬之意。主厨虽以欧洲烹饪方式为主，却从未忘本，常在创 作中巧妙安排日式食材及元素。

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DAVID HARTUNG; WATER LILIES, CLAUDE MONET © 2014. PHOTO FINE ART IMAGES/HERITAGE IMAGES/SCALA, FLORENCE

“Water Lilies” by Claude Monet

tasting notes

LES JOUEURS DE CARTES, PAUL CEZANNE © BRIDGEMAN IMAGES; DAVID HARTUNG

“Les Joueurs de Cartes” by Paul Cézanne A h ea r t y l a m b a n d p ot ato d i s h s e e m s a n appropriate culinary tribute to this painting of peasants from Cézanne’s native Provence enjoying a leisurely moment of smoking and playing cards.

Chef Kaji lightly crusts the lamb with lemon and pairs it with a fragrant herb mimosa sauce that also complements the sautéed asparagus. The potatoes are served with rich black truffle mayo, and sauce-painted card suits garnish the dish. 《玩纸牌的人》保罗 · 塞尚 要向塞尚的名画致敬，描绘出画家故乡普罗旺斯乡 间百姓悠闲抽烟打牌的气氛，选用营养丰富的羊肉 及马铃薯似乎是不二选择。主厨将羊肉以柠檬调味、 脆烤处理，佐以香气浓郁的含羞草酱汁，与嫩煎芦 笋味道搭配的恰到好处。马铃薯则配上黑松露美乃 滋享用，最后还摆出涂上酱料的不同花色牌卡，趣 味横生。

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DAVID HARTUNG

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kitchen conversation

盘中乾坤

a lot on his plate Chef Richard Ekkebus, the much lauded culinary director of Amber at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, sat down recently with Barbra Austin to talk about his approach to plating. He emphasizes flavor, precision and practicality but never seems to serve a dish that isn’t also memorably beautiful.

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kitchen conversation

What inspires your plating? Do you have a set of aesthetic principles that you follow, or is it more of an organic process?

There is a certain order in how I work, but there’s also a certain liberty I always take.

I don’t want to be too strict in what we do.

If you always do the same thing, the repetition becomes boring, so actually we like to change it quite frequently. I like things to be very precise, so even if a dish looks disorganized, there’s a certain discipline in how it was plated, because you need to reproduce it. A factor that you always need to bear in mind is that you need to reproduce dishes on a daily basis.

My mother was an art teacher and my father was an engineer. I wanted to be an engineer or maybe something in design.

There’s always some little part of me that is an engineer. So that part, it helps. Building, giving things shape.

I don’t like to put things that have no added value to the dish, so whatever is part of the dish is, in a natural way, also part of the presentation. We never start [with the presentation]. It always sort of comes along naturally at the end by trying and retrying, and it’s a very democratic process. My chef de cuisine and the other chefs and I all sort of say, “Let’s try this, let’s try that.” We all try to chip in. All the honors do not come to me.

It’s a team effort.

DAVID HARTUNG

The final test must always be to sit down and eat, judging things from a diner’s perspective.

Absolutely. Sometimes, you know, you do a presentation and it’s absolutely not practical to eat.

So it’s more design than art?

Yeah, we are not artists. We are craftsmen, trying to be clever sometimes. But some chefs are known more than others for their design. I worked for Pierre Gagnaire and he’s very well known for his very abstract way of plating. He was a person who [made statements] with his various ways of plating

I like things to be very precise, so even if a dish looks disorganized, there’s a certain discipline in how it was plated, because you need to reproduce it.

CHEF RICHARD EKKEBUS

sauce … like you would see in modern paintings – splashes or traces. Because before, food was actually quite boring – a piece of meat, a little garnish and a potato.

It was all very predictable.

What are some fundamentals of good plating?

Well, food is supposed to be eaten hot.

Some chefs make things very complicated.

I got a photo yesterday of somebody sitting in a restaurant with a dish of overcooked fish, and there was a very dramatic plating of sauces. Whatever you’re going to do, it should not interfere with the temperature. Or the food is going to start to dry out. Even meat, it loses its juice, its gloss, so we need to stay practical whenever we plate something. And sometimes we need to plate eight or twelve or fourteen of the same dish, and they all need to be identical.

There’s a practicality with everything we do, and it’s not like with cold starters that everything is plated and in the fridge. Everything is done to order.

Do you think we’ll continue to see new trends in plating, or have we seen it all?

There’s nothing new under the sun. I think what we’re seeing now, more and more, is the use of less conventional materials to plate. People use wood and stone, and that’s not really new, because I remember in my grandparents’ restaurant, you got a pâté on a wooden board. So it’s not new. But yeah, a lot of tree trunks, and that makes sense if you’re in the countryside, but we’re in the city, so it needs to have a certain polish. I wouldn’t put pieces of wood in the middle of the table.

We need to keep a polished, city approach.

Does art influence your cooking or plating?

Not so much. Of course, you have great music, you have great art, there are a lot of things that people get inspired by, but it’s not like, “Well, I’m listening to Tony Bennett, so I’m gonna make this asparagus dish.”

That’s not how it works, not for me. I always start with an ingredient, with a team. We sit down, and we talk about what we want to achieve with this ingredient. What is the essence of the dish that we want to express?

That is how we build a dish.

Much of your food is really quite classic, but your presentations are always modern.

I think everybody comes to a point where they look for guidance or inspiration. I think it was maybe eight years ago, I had a conversation with our big boss Edouard Ettedgui and he was speaking about Hermès, about how Hermès is always able to reinvent itself but still stay very classical, and still be very relevant in fashion. I actually made a lot of parallels between [that and] what we were trying to achieve. Being very classic, very craft-driven, [with] very exceptional materials, exceptional craftsmanship, and then the little changes that made every collection relevant. That has always been a big inspiration for me.

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kitchen conversation

香港置地文华东方酒店Amber餐厅的星级名厨Richard Ekkebus，近期接受Barbra Austin专访，畅谈自己 的摆盘哲学，他重视料理的风味、精准度、实用性，而端上桌的料理也无不展现令人难忘的视觉美感。

我很讲究精准 , 即使料 理看似随性 , 但背后确 实有某些摆盘的原则 , 因为餐厅往往需要重 复做同样菜色。 CHEF RICHARD EKKEBUS

您的摆盘灵感从何而来？是否会依循一套 美学原则，或者您认为这是一种有机的构 思过程？ 摆盘时，我的确会有些顺序原则，但 也保有弹性的发挥空间，我不喜欢太过拘 泥，如果老是同一套，重复几次后会越来 越乏味无趣，所以我们常常变化样式。我 很讲究精准，即使料理看似随性，但背后 确实有某些摆盘的原则，因为餐厅往往需 要重复做同样菜色，别忘了，厨师每天都 必须重复制作许多料理。 我的母亲是美术老师，我以前想当个 工程师或走设计这个行业，而我父亲是工 程师，我身上某些部分还是流着工程师的 血液，那个部分的我，赋予料理的外观形态。 我不太喜欢在料理中加入缺乏附加价 值的元素，所以一道菜中的每项元素，自 然而然的，也是摆盘的一部分。我们从不 会以摆盘为出发点，每道料理最后呈现的 样貌，是无数次尝试后水到渠成的结果， 而且这个过程充满民主气息， 「试试这样做」 或「试试那样做」是我、行政主厨和其他 厨师老挂在嘴边的几句话，我们不断交换 意见，如果餐厅获得外界肯定与赞赏，功 劳绝不在我，而是整个团队合作的成果。 最终的考验，还是要从用餐客人的角度来 品尝、给予评价。 那当然，有时摆盘作得漂亮，但入口 却让人大失所望。 所以，您的料理与其说是一种艺术，不如 说是一种设计？ 是的，我们不是艺术家，而是工匠， 一群偶尔自作聪明的工匠。有些厨师的设 计 天 分 特 别 突 出， 以 前 我 曾 师 从 巴 黎 的 Pierre Gagnaire，他以极抽象的摆盘技法闻 名美食圈，他会以各式各样的方式呈现酱 汁 … 跟现代画作里的技法如出一辙，如泼 洒、描边等等，因为以前餐桌上的食物真 的很乏味，就是一块肉、一小撮配菜再加 上一颗马铃薯，实在了无新意。

Dombes frog legs 酥脆香料法国田鸡腿

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您认为理想的摆盘要掌握哪些基本要点？ 这个嘛，美食当然就是要趁热吃，但 有些厨师把事情弄得过于复杂。昨天有人 给我看一张照片，有个人坐在餐厅里，眼

前摆着一盘煮过头的鱼肉料理，酱汁的呈 现方式非常夸张。我认为无论如何，绝不 能影响食物的温度，否则耗时摆盘容易让 美食变得又干又老，即使是肉类料理，肉 汁与色泽也会因此大打折扣。而有时我们 需要一次作八盘、十二盘、或十四盘相同 的料理，外观必须一致，因此所有的程序 都得考虑到实用性，这种实用性并不是指 把冷盘事先摆好放在冰箱里，而是依照一 定的顺序，按部就班执行。

您认为未来是否还会出现新的摆盘风格趋 势？或是就仅止于此？ 太阳底下没有新鲜事，我们目前所看 到的摆盘风格，多半是使用不那么传统的 器材来呈现，比如木材或石材，但这并非 新花样，我记得在我祖父母开的餐厅里， 就有以木板盛装香肠的菜色。如果是郊区 餐厅，使用大量的木材做摆盘其实很合理， 但我们的餐厅位于市区，所以作法得更精 致些，我不会直接拿块木头放在桌上，而 是采用多几分优雅的都市风格。 您的烹饪或摆盘是否受到艺术的影响？ 艺术对我的影响并不大，当然，我们 有很出色的音乐跟艺术作品，还有许多能 启发灵感的事物，但并不是说： 「听完东尼． 班尼特的音乐后，我就打算要做这道芦笋 料理」，至少对我而言并非如此。我永远以 食材、团队为出发点，先跟其他成员坐下 来讨论，该如何运用食材？我们想透过这 道料理表达哪些核心概念？这是我们研发 料理的方式。 您的料理常表现出经典风味，但是摆盘总 是充满现代风格。 我想每个人总会遇到需要寻求指引或 灵感的时刻。大约八年前，我跟酒店总裁 Edouard Ettedgui 谈话，他聊到爱马仕这个 品牌，说这个品牌总是能自我创新，又保 有经典风貌，同时还能紧随时尚潮流。此 后我便经常把爱马仕的品牌经营和餐厅的 料理作连结思考，爱马仕坚持经典、工匠 路线，同时融入许多独特的材料与手艺， 而每个微小的细节变化，就是提升整体系 列时尚感的功臣，这种精神，始终是我汲 取灵感的来源。

DAVID HARTUNG

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Spring Pear with Macha Ice-cream 惊蛰梨抹茶巧克力冰激凌

COPYRIGHT @ MR. DA DONG

kitchen conversation

水墨之意 烹饪之境

cooking with art During a recent visit to StarWorld Macau, Da Dong Roast Duck Founder Dong Zhenxiang spoke with TK about his distinctively artful and forward-looking style of cooking.

kitchen conversation

Chef Dong’s Braised Sea Cucumber 董氏烧海参

In addition to the roast duck, you are celebrated for many other innovative dishes. What are some of them?

Well of course there is my roast duck. I’ve also worked on new recipes for sea cucumber and shark fin – safflower shark fin being one of my proudest achievements. Next there is my steamed Alaskan crab. In my recipe, I steam the crab with eggs that have

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themselves been steamed in twenty-year-old Shaoxing wine. It has been quite a hit with diners, as crab is traditionally steamed alone, or with just a touch of garlic. Mine is the only recipe that includes eggs and that has consequently helped it become a huge draw.

The creative layout of your dishes, which you call Dadong Yijing Cuisine, is also a big draw at your restaurants.

Can you tell us a bit more about these creations?

Dadong Yijing Cuisine has been one of my most important accomplishments and is today considered to be at the forefront of a new genre of culinary arts. The creative layouts could be said to mirror the impressionist school of Chinese painting and its liberal use of freehand brushwork. Of course, while working to present an aesthetic experience, the taste of the food remains paramount. I draw from modern color science, using theories, for example, of complementary color and unifying tones when arranging a dish.

作为十二大招牌菜之一的 SuperLean duck 是怎样发明出来的？ 我们的烤鸭叫做酥不腻，酥脆的酥， 不油腻的不腻，英文取其译音就叫 SuperLean。这是通过市场的观察，再结合消费者 的需求发明出来的，至今已有 20 年历史。 我结合客人的需求，再慢慢研究，后来制 成了皮厚酥脆，肉嫩油少的酥不腻。 除了烤鸭，你还有很多创新的菜式。能给 我们谈谈吗？ 烤鸭自不必说，后来我还改创了海参 和鱼翅等。红花鱼翅就是我的得意之作。还 有蒸阿拉斯加蟹，用的是 20 年的古越龙山 酒蒸蛋，再用蛋去蒸阿拉斯加蟹。这料理 在世界上也被认可为一道成功的料理。因 为一般做蟹都是用清蒸和大蒜搭配，而我 独选用蛋蒸的方式就更加非常引人入胜了。 大董烤鸭的意境菜也是让人津津有味，能 说说这方面的独创吗？ 这是我最大的一个发明，如今被认为 是新推出的一个烹饪艺术流派。意境菜顾 名思义，意就是意义的意，境是境界的境。

COPYRIGHT @ MR. DA DONG (2)

SuperLean Roast Duck is one of your twelve signature dishes. Can you tell us how you came up with it?

In Chinese, our roast duck is called Cui Bu Ni, which means “crispy not oily.”

The name SuperLean is a phonetic translation of the Chinese. This dish came about after observing market trends and listening to customer preferences for over twenty years. After understanding what my customers wanted in a roast duck, with a bit of research, SuperLean – with its thick, crispy skin on the outside and tender, non-greasy meat on the inside – was born.

Sauteed Bamboo Shoot with Potherb Mustard 雪菜冬笋

COPYRIGHT @ MR. DA DONG

kitchen conversation

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Kaluga Queen Black Caviar with Mushrooms 天山共色·卡路伽黑鱼籽拌蘑菇

kitchen conversation

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Regarding your artistic direction, I’ve heard that in addition to your expertise in the culinary arts, you’ve also tried your hand at photography.

I have been involved with photography for many years now. When I first started, I hoped that photography could help elevate my appreciation for art. It has certainly increased my aesthetic touch and that has been a considerable help when arranging the layout of my dishes. In this area, my cooking team has, in many ways, taken after me.

Together, we travel the world to experience different artistic cultures. Our team has visited the Louvre, as well as traveled to see the masterpieces of Monet and Van Gogh.

We have also toured around the globe in search of the world’s best ingredients, and

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 Flower Fish Fillet 菊花鱼

 Roast Crispy Pork 脆皮三层炉肉

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The ingredients and the utensils for tonight’s dinner have all been shipped from Beijing. As for the dishes, we have chosen sea cucumber and Alaskan crab to be the culinary centerpieces of the evening. As for expectations, I simply hope that my guests can taste and appreciate the dishes in the way I’ve meant them to.

Iberian Ham in Sticky Rice Pudding 伊比利亚粽子火腿

we hold regular dialogues with prominent Western chefs. In this way, the competitiveness and overall quality of our team continues to improve, which gives us the confidence to keep trying out new dishes and combinations.

You have been invited to StarWorld Macau as tonight’s guest chef. How have you prepared for the evening and what expectations do you have?

Which dish on tonight’s menu do you think is most worth waiting for?

The sea cucumber would be my first choice. I guarantee that you will not find a better-tasting sea cucumber here in Macau.

To take the almost flavorless sea cucumber and transform it into a dish bursting with flavor is no easy thing. As for the roast duck, ensuring each bite is both crispy and tender requires no small skill on the part of the chef. The duck should be equal parts juicy and flavorful – the teeth should feel the qualities of “softness, moistness, tenderness, crispness, and looseness,” while the

COPYRIGHT @ MR. DA DONG (3)

What this means for the diner is they are treated to an all around culinary experience, not only through their taste buds, but their other senses as well.

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tongue should taste the qualities of “sour, sweet, bitter, spicy and savory.” It is a delicacy not to be missed.

What’s the secret to your success?

The success of my Da Dong restaurants can be primarily attributed to understanding the market we are in. My philosophy is to be ready to serve the future. That is, to be ahead of the curve and understand what your customer might want down the road. You need to look ahead five to ten years from now for possible trends. My SuperLean duck and the Dadong Yijing Cuisine all came about in this way. What we are aiming for is a culinary art.

As the Mainland market continues to mature, ever more beautiful and exquisite dishes and cuisines will emerge in response. However, that these dishes are agreeable to the palate will remain paramount. The goal, after all, is to ensure that a first-time customer is also a return customer. Continually cultivating customer loyalty – that is success.

它相当于用中国绘画里写意的方法摆盘， 泼墨写意。但追求美感的同时，也别忘了 对料理美味的重视。更要运用现代的色彩 学搭配，如意境补色，统一料理色调等等。 除了要给人味觉的震撼，更少不得氛围的 配合和感官的惊艳。

在艺术方面，除了烹饪艺术，你对摄影也 颇感兴趣？ 我接触摄影好些年头了。当年学摄影， 就是希望摄影能有利于提高艺术品味。这 能提升我的审美触觉，对料理的表现力也 是有一定帮助。我的厨师团队也受我的影 响。他们跟着我天南海北的跑，感受不同 的艺术文化，去寻找更好的原材料，和欧 美厨师进行交流，这样我们团队的竞争力 和整体素质才会不断提升，也就更有信心 做出新的创意料理了。 今天你应邀来到澳门星际酒店做客席厨师， 对此有什么准备和期待吗？ 我们今天的原材料包括器皿，都是从 北京运过来的。菜式方面，我们选择海参、

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阿拉斯加蟹等以味为主的意境菜。至于期 待，我希望通过这次晚宴，来宾们能像我 预期的一样去欣赏和品味料理。

给我们推荐晚宴中最值得期待的一道菜吧。 海参是首选。我敢保证在澳门没吃过 这么好的。能把淡而无味的海参做到丰润 浓郁，不是一件易事。还有就是烤鸭，要 入口酥松也是很考验主厨的功夫。要做到 “ 滋 ”“ 味 ” 双全，牙齿感触到软烂嫩脆松， 舌头品尝到酸甜苦辣咸，这是不容错失的 一道美味。 最后能跟大家分享下你成功的秘诀吗？ 大董这么多年走过来，抓住市场是成 功的第一要素。我的理念就是 “ 服务预期 ”， 即预先了解期望，要看到五到十年后的发 展趋势。所以我们的酥不腻、意境菜等都 是如此，要的是艺术烹饪。当大陆市场更 成熟时，又会有更漂亮好吃的料理应运而 生。而最重要的，还有 “ 味道 ”。要让客人 吃过一次还想着回来再吃第二次，不断培 养顾客的忠诚度。这就成功了。 appetite for art

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Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Edition Première

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presented by perrier-jouët

花香浓 酒香醇

bouquet of spring flowers

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Perrier-Jouët’s Belle Epoque Edition Première is a subtle and complex Champagne, versatile enough to enhance an extraordinary menu of dishes at NUR, from start to finish.

IT IS SPRINGTIME in the Champagne region of France. Young blooms scent the air, elderflower and orange blossoms mingling their perfumes with those of peach trees and lilies.

These fragrances have become the inspiration for an exceptional new Perrier-Jouët cuvee: Belle Epoque Edition Première.

On the other side of the world, above a busy street in central Hong Kong, a garden flourishes on a balcony. Lemon balm, coriander and jasmine grow next to shiso, lemon grass and tropical fruit trees. Tendrils of spearmint trail from planters fixed to railings. French doors lead from this garden into a bright and airy dining room, where chefs work calmly in a large, open kitchen. This is NUR, a new fine dining restaurant with an emphasis on purity and regional ingredients.

NUR’s Sommelier and Manager, Kelvin Ziea, deftly opens a chilled bottle of PerrierJouët’s Belle Epoque Edition Première, the cork purring quietly as it exits the bottle. He pours the Champagne into a large white wine glass so the aromas can circulate and release their floral bouquet. Bubbles rise in delicate strings through the beautiful peach-colored liquid. “See how the bubbles sustain?” says Ziea. “Even in a wineglass, where a lesser Champagne would fade and become flat quickly, Belle Epoque Edition Première bubbles endure, because of a process called cold maceration. Grape skins are added to the wine and left to release their flavor over

法国香槟区现正春暖花开，空气中不时飘 来扑鼻花香，接骨木花混着香橙花气息， 加之桃树及百合花香，让人心醉神迷。「巴 黎之花（Perrier-Jouët）」最新推出的限量版 特酿香槟「花漾年华 (Belle Epoque)」Edition Première, 正是以多层次的花香为灵感 酿制，色泽透亮如太阳初升，口感纯粹美妙， 为不可多得的花香顶级香槟。 值此同时，地球的另一端，香港中环 车水马龙的街道上，开了一间风格独特的 餐厅，页岩镶砌的阳台上种满各式花草， 像是香蜂草及胡荽，茉莉一旁则种着紫苏、 柠檬草及热带果树 ；绿薄荷盆栽则挂在栏 杆上，卷须垂地。顺着法式对门离开花园， 映 入 眼 帘 的 是 明 亮 通 风 的 餐 厅， 大 厨 们 正不急不徐的悉心料理。这个新餐厅名为 「NUR」，他们巧妙运用地方食材，力求呈 现食物的原味。 只 见「NUR」 侍 酒 师 暨 经 理 Kelvin Ziea 动作俐落，娴熟地开了瓶冷藏花漾年 华限量版香槟，他移开软木塞时几近无声， 接着把香槟倒入白色大酒杯，让香气有足 够空间流通、释出独到的花香气韵。同时 也可以看到细致的泡沫在蜜桃色香槟中连 串升起，Ziea 开口问道 ： 「泡泡还是很完整 对吧？一般香槟倒入酒杯，泡沫很快就会 消散不见，但花漾年华限量版却很持久， 就是拜『冷浸皮法』所赐，意即把葡萄皮 加入酒中，长时间放置释出味道，期间完 全不加热。『冷浸皮法』可以带出葡萄最原 始的滋味，同时保有酸度及鲜度，让泡沫 在混酿中升起不坠。」 主厨 Nurdin Topham 手拿一盘精致的

Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Edition Première

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Smoked Stockyard Wagyu cheek with black garlic

a long period of time without being heated.

Cold maceration really brings out the purity of the grape flavor, maintaining the acidity and freshness of the grapes. And it keeps the bubbles going in a complex wine.”

NUR Head Chef Nurdin Topham brings over a beautiful plate of miniature heirloom tomatoes, forming a colorful island in a pool of green dressing. Soft pieces of pink and white crabmeat are nestled among the tomatoes. Tiny sprigs of orange blossom and baby leaves from the balcony herb garden are sprinkled on the surface of the dish. The salad dressing is made by a process that mimics cold maceration. Chef Topham explains: “It is made by steeping tomatoes in water and then straining them through muslin. It takes a long time. But this process helps me to capture the soul of the tomato and this adds a beautiful flavor.”

Sommelier Ziea tastes the tomato dish and follows with a sip of Belle Epoque Edition Première. “Right away the tomatoes taste pure, matching the purity of the Champagne,” he says. “The seasoning is spare, which allows the flavor of the tomato to shine. The Champagne amplifies the tomatoes and the whole sensation is clean, delicious and light.”

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Perrier-Jouët’s Belle Epoque Edition Première Champagne smells like spring flowers.

Light elderflower is tinged with a richer and darker scent of sweet lily. In the mouth it has a creamy texture, with those tiny persistent bubbles adding a dimension of gentle movement. Chef Topham explains how he feels when looking for a perfect Champagne to pair with food: “For me it comes down to trying to find the light switch that goes on when you drink. Champagne should not just be harmonious with the food but should also heighten the experience. The gentle acidity of Belle Epoque Edition Première really works with the crab and tomato in this dish.”

How will Belle Epoque Edition Première fare when matched with a dish of wagyu beef cheek, robustly flavored with pungent black garlic and peppery nasturtium leaves and flower heads? “This Champagne is ninety percent Chardonnay grands crus and ten percent Pinot Noir. This combination gives the wine great complexity,” says Ziea. “After the initial floral notes, there are richer stone fruit flavors, a chalky minerality and a hint of aniseed. Belle Epoque Edition Première actually works well with meat dishes and hot dishes, because it has great structure and can stand up to strong flavors.”

Chef Topham tastes the beef with the Champagne. “This Perrier-Jouët is really elegant Champagne,” he says. “Its gentle acidity works well with the beef dish as the only acidity in the dish is provided by a little pickled shallot. There is some fresh ginger juice in the beef sauce and we use apple wood smoke to infuse flavor into the beef. These sweeter notes in the food are picked up and highlighted perfectly by the Belle Epoque Edition Première. It really is a very versatile drink. Only NUR serves it, through June.”

The final test is a sweet tropical dessert.

A perfect quenelle of lime and coconut ice cream lies on rosy granita made from a broth of ripe, aromatic guava. Tiny fronds of lemon verbena and a raspberry-colored powder made from a local, hibiscus-like flower add citrus flavors. The fragrance of the dessert is enticingly floral, and a mouthful reveals a surprise: popping candy, which creates a fizzing sensation in the mouth, very much like the light bubbles of the Champagne.

“This is a beautiful Champagne,” says Chef Topham. “Beautiful. Belle Epoque Edition Première reminds me of an accomplished socialite. It is elegant, a great conversationalist and fits in wherever it goes.

I love it!”

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

烟熏Stockyard 和牛面颊伴发酵黑蒜芥兰

祖传小蕃茄现身，小菜在绿色酱料中犹如 一座隆起的彩色小岛，蕃茄里更点缀着粉 红及白色的鲜软蟹肉，最后再放上自家阳 台花园摘取的香橙花及嫩叶，就是令人心 旷神怡的新鲜沙拉。说到沙拉酱，Topham 透露过程和「冷浸皮法」如出一辙 ： 「​​先把 蕃茄浸在水中，再用棉布过滤，虽然很费时， 却能保留蕃茄美味的精髓，让沙拉的味道 更上一层楼。」 Ziea 小尝一口蕃茄沙拉，啜饮着花漾 年华限量版香槟不禁赞叹 ： 「口中立即充 满蕃茄原味，与香槟的纯粹味道搭的恰到 好处。沙拉调味清淡，正可突显蕃茄滋味， 而香槟入口又进一步加强蕃茄的鲜味，相 互融合，干净、美味、毫无负担。」 花漾年华特酿香槟闻起来就像多种春 季花朵的综合体，淡雅的接骨木花混合着 浓郁厚实的甜百合花香。在嘴里则化为绵 密的口感，微小却持久的泡沫添加丰富的 层次。对于完美的餐酒搭配组合，主厨有 独门见解 ： 「好的香槟就像打开电灯开关一 样，喝下去还能一直保持明亮，只和食物 味道融合还不够，能提升整体的层次更好。 像花漾年华在这道沙拉中，就真的可以和 蟹肉及蕃茄激荡出美味的火花。」 但拿来和牛颊肉，黑蒜调味 , 辛香水 田介叶及花苞这类味道浓郁的餐点搭配也 行得通吗？ Ziea 解释道 ： 「这支酒也能与 浓郁的味道巧妙配合。它是以 90% 特级夏

多内及 10% 黑皮诺混酿而成，层次相当丰 富。一开始的花香过后，紧接着就是浓重 的核果水果气味，加上像石灰的矿物感及 一丝洋茴香韵味回荡。限量版酒体扎实， 搭配味道较重的餐点也毫不逊色，正是肉 类及热炒料理的好搭档。」 主厨 Topham 搭配香槟享用和牛后直 呼： 「巴黎之花香槟气味高雅。牛肉料理仅 用一点腌渍青葱带出酸味，加上酸度适中 的花漾年华，味道刚好。牛肉酱汁还添了 现榨姜汁，经过苹果树木材烟熏，配上香 槟有画龙点睛的效果，让料理滋味更加丰 富鲜甜。香槟唯在 NUR 可享，供应期为 整个六月，机不可失。」 最后的关卡则是考验花漾年华与热带 甜点的匹配程度。莱姆及椰子冰淇淋慕斯 球枕在熟透石榴制成的红粉冰沙上，加上 小片柠檬马鞭草叶及当地木槿类花草研磨 的覆盆子色花粉，增添柑橘的气息。这道 热带甜点充满花香，入口后还有惊喜等着 饕客 ：隐藏其中的糖果给味蕾带来一阵酥 麻的感觉，与香槟泡沫的口感如出一辙。 站在满是新鲜翠绿植物的阳台上，主 厨的好心情写在脸上，对于这次的餐酒搭 配非常满意 ： 「花漾年华优雅华美，真的很 令人心动。这款限量版香槟感觉像是教养 极佳的社交名媛，气质典雅、谈吐大方， 不管到哪都是令人瞩目的娇点，让人连目 光都移不开了！」

presented by perrier-jouët

Heirloom Zen tomatoes, king crab, tomato water, herbs, blossoms 皇帝蟹球伴纯种有机蕃茄及 鲜花香草蕃茄精华

Guava, white chocolate, coconut and roselle 蕃石榴茸配椰子白巧克力拉糖

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presented by grand hyatt shenzhen

璀璨明珠

shenzhen’s crown jewel

← Beetroot-cured salmon and crispy skin with radish and pomegranate dressing 甜草根腌制三文 鱼配石榴汁

THE BELLE-VUE RESTAURANT crowns the 37th floor of the Shenzhen Grand Hyatt.

True to its name, the panoramic views are spectacular: to the east lies a peaceful, silver Pearl River tributary; to the west, the towering, glittering skyscrapers of China’s fastest-growing modern metropolis. To the south lie the green hills of Hong Kong. On a clear day, the setting sun gilds their flanks, and in lesser weather, their peaks are ringed with clouds of fog.

Inside the restaurant, it is always chic and cozy. The Belle-Vue is the epitome of the Hyatt’s eight fine dining restaurants, but Marc Briol, the restaurant’s new star chef, is dedicated to cultivating a welcoming, relaxed ambiance that sets every guest at ease.

Briol, a handsome young German from Cologne, joined the team six months ago, after stints at the Michelin-starred Berens am Kai in Düsseldorf and the Andaz Hotel Liverpool Street in London. Within weeks of his arrival in Shenzhen, Briol had established a new, gourmet menu, serving classic European cuisine with playful, experimental twists.

While establishing Belle-Vue as one of Shenzhen’s premier fine dining establishments, Briol has refined his own distinctive style while adjusting his European dishes to suit local tastes, using local ingredients and drawing inspiration from Chinese cuisines.

悦景餐厅位于深圳君悦饭店 37 楼，能让 壮观美景尽收眼底，恰如其名。朝东面向 波澜不惊的珠江支流，西边紧邻中国发展 最快的现代都市，高楼林立，在夜里闪烁 耀眼光芒，朝南望则是香港翠绿山景，天 朗云清时，可看到金黄色阳光曳洒在山侧， 若是云雨霏霏，则可见顶峰山岚缭绕。 悦景餐厅内装潢维持一贯的时髦舒适， 可感受到君悦饭店八大餐厅的特色象征， 而新任的星级主厨 Marc Briol 则致力于打 造温馨舒适的氛围，让每位宾客都能放松 享受美馔。 来自德国科隆的 Marc Briol 六个月前 甫加入悦景餐厅的团队，他曾任职于德国 杜塞道夫的米其林星级餐厅与英国安达仕 利物浦街凯悦酒店。 在抵达深圳市后的数 周内他便研发出全新菜单，无一不是充满 创新变化的经典欧洲料理。 悦景餐厅是深圳数一数二的顶级餐厅， Briol 的料理充满独特风格，他成功把自己 的欧洲菜肴改良成符合当地人的口味，采 用本地食材，并从中国的菜肴中汲取灵感。 在两者间取得微妙的平衡。 这可是一大挑战，一来是当地餐饮界 很少具备烹饪欧洲精致料理经验的厨师， 此外他对本地食材也并不熟悉。而 Briol 却 能发挥绝佳的应变能力，把阻力化为助力， 他改用本地食材，优化食材的供应，以及 提供熟悉的感觉给顾客。Marc Briol 表示 ： 「如果当地产品能达到我要求的水准，反而 更好，因为我们也肩负爱护地球的责任。」 Briol 会先请本地工作人员试吃新菜色， 他说 ： 「他们的饮食文化及喜好跟我们顾客 相近。如果他们觉得美味，我也对料理满 意，那便是达到一种折衷的平衡。当大厨 的人要懂得寻找关联性，要因时因地制宜， 且精进不懈。 」

Chef Marc Briol is polishing the Belle-Vue Restaurant at the Grand Hyatt Shenzhen into a crown jewel of the city’s dining scene.

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presented by grand hyatt shenzhen

← Belle-Vue Star Chef Marc Briol 悦景餐厅星级主厨Marc Briol → Slow-cooked rack of lamb, marinated in honey, with spiced onion jam, roasted almonds and natural jus

It was no small challenge. Briol faced a culinary landscape with limited European fine-dining experience and unfamiliar ingredients. He adapted quickly, turning weakness to strength by sourcing his ingredients locally, enhancing sustainability and providing a sense of familiarity to guests.

“If my standards can match with the local products, even better,” he says. “It’s our responsibility as well to look after the earth.”

Briol tested his new dishes on the staff.

“Their cultural background and preferences are like those of our customers,” he explains.

“If they like it and I am satisfied, we can meet in the middle. As a chef, you have to connect, adapt, and grow together.”

“I think what we really want to say is: enjoy your evening. Relax. You don’t need to sit with a pressure on your chest, not wanting to breathe, not knowing which fork to use. . . . We want our guests to take it easy.

If you don’t know what to do, do it your way.

We learn from our guests and adapt. BelleVue is for everyone, from young people to the older generation.”

Briol has created a menu that is delicate, colorful and luxurious, featuring items such as homemade foie gras terrine, duck confit, plum crème, black truffle vinaigrette, crispy

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potato and brioche. Many of the dishes are prepared a la minute, at sleek stations in the dining room, and everything is meticulously and beautifully plated. Briol has formulated a popular tasting menu that allows for sharing in the Chinese fashion.

The food, highly refined yet still approachable, satisfies with a light touch.

The beetroot-marinated salmon is gently briny, reminiscent of an oyster. The rack of lamb, marinated in honey, cooked sous vide for fourteen hours, and served with crumbled roast almond and spiced onion jam, is soft and sweet, almost plush.

Dessert is a sparkling finale: lemon tart served with citrus sherbet, artfully arranged like an English garden. One hovers over the plate, loathe to disarray the lovely assemblage.

But the fork must descend, and when it does the tart vanishes quickly; the flavors are as bright and colorful and as playfully pleasing as the look of the ingredients on the plate.

With its impassioned discipline and friendly ambiance, Belle-Vue has already attracted a faithful following. Candlelit marriage proposals are a regular occurrence. “It’s nice to see that people keep coming back,” says Briol. “From the old days to the new days, we’ve gone the journey together.”

「我们想对顾客说的是 ：好好享受这个 夜晚，尽情放松，不需要正襟危坐，也不 必僵硬屏息，不用烦恼该用哪把刀叉才对。 我们希望能让客人感到轻松自在，不知道 正确的进餐方式也无妨，就用自己熟悉的 方式享用美食。我们​​会 依据用餐顾客所传 达的讯息加以改善，悦景是为每个人打造 的餐厅，老少咸宜。」 Marc Briol 完成各种尝试后，所呈现的 新菜单不仅道道精致美味、色泽丰富，更是 尊贵奢华，包括自制鹅肝批、油封鸭、梅子酱， 配黑松露油醋汁、脆薯片、法式奶油包。而 且多道料理都提供 a la minute 的餐饮体验， 大厨在光滑的餐桌前现场烹调，展现完美几 近苛求的摆盘技巧。 Marc Briol 并设计另一 份精选菜单，让顾客能与同桌友人共享餐点， 贴近中国餐饮文化，深受欢迎。 悦景餐厅的菜色精致而不失亲和，往 往能画龙点睛带给顾客无限满足。其中甜 菜根腌鲑鱼带有些微海味，让人联想到牡 蛎，而蜂蜜腌羊肋排经过低温烹调十四小 时，搭配烘烤的碎杏仁和蒜味辣酱，肉嫩 又鲜甜，堪称豪华无比。 悦景餐厅的服务充满热忱，气氛亲和 友善，早已吸引一票忠实顾客，这里也常 上演伴随烛光晚餐的浪漫求婚。 Marc Briol 说： 「看到老顾客一再莅临，真的令人很欣 慰，从过去到现在，一路走来，我们始终 同在。」

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

烟熏羊架配蜜糖、香洋葱酱、烤杏仁

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photo feature

Esteemed American photographer Elliott Erwitt captures the spirit of Scotland in a unique collaboration with whisky distillery

perfect moment

The Macallan.

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Bairds Bar in central Glasgow is a popular place for football fans to meet, drink and discuss their beloved sport. One customer throws his head back and sings enthusiastically, while others sit at the bar, quietly chatting. 格拉斯哥市中心的Bairds酒 吧是足球迷见面、喝酒、讨论心爱运动的热门地点。一个人 头往后仰，唱得陶醉，其他人坐在吧台，静静聊天。 Print 8 is paired with Cask No. 0002475.

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At the Boat of Garten Station, a traditional steam engine prepares for a journey. The Strathspey Railway runs through moorland, woodlands and along stretches of the River Spey, with the Cairngorms National Park providing a dramatic mountain backdrop. 在Boat of Garten车站，传统的蒸汽引擎启动，准备启程。 Strathspey铁路穿越荒地、林地，沿着Spey河畔绵延，背景是Cairngorms国家公园壮丽的群山。 Print 3 is paired with Cask No. 000246.

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A group of friends enjoys a picnic in the beautiful grounds of the Coignafearn Estate. They are celebrating “The Glorious Twelfth,” the first day of the grouse shooting season. There is a canine presence at the party too. These important characters are gun dogs, who retrieve the fallen birds. 一群好友在Coignafearn庄园美丽的景色中享用野餐。他们在庆祝「光荣十二日」，也就是猎松鸡季节的第一天。餐会上也有狗，这些好帮手猎犬会咬回坠下的松鸡。 Print 6 is paired Cask No. 0004868.

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A piper wearing a traditional tartan kilt plays the bagpipes next to peaceful Loch Tulla. A sweep of pine forest leads down to the still waters of the lake. Far in the background a range of mountains emerges from the clearing mist. 夜间一位风笛手穿着传统苏格兰格纹裙，站在宁静的Tulla湖边吹奏风笛。 阵风吹过松林树梢，往下拂过宁静的湖水，远方背景的群山在雾气中若隐若现。 Print 11 is paired with Cask No. 0003207.

This photograph was taken in the remote Orkney islands off the northern coast of Scotland. Every Friday the Peedie Chippy food van visits Finstown car park to serve hungry customers. A little girl at the end of the waiting line jumps for joy in anticipation of her meal. 这张照片在苏格兰北海岸偏远的Orkney群岛拍摄。每星期五Peedie Chippy食品摊会开到Finstown 停车场，为饥肠辘辘的客人服务。队伍最后的一个小女孩等不及要吃顿大餐，雀跃地跳起来。 Print 54 is paired with Cask No. 0010068.

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photo feature

Hanging above one of the many stalls in Barras Market, linen for sale blows in the harsh Glasgow breeze. The word “Barras” comes from the Glaswegian dialect for “barrows” – the name of the wheeled stalls that lined the market when it first opened. 在Barras市场，待售的亚麻布挂在许多摊位上方，让格拉斯哥强劲的风吹得飒飒扬扬。 「Barras」一字来自格拉斯哥方言的「barrows」，指市场刚成立时排满市场中的手推车摊子。 Print 31 is paired with Cask No. 0000016.

A monolith 4.8 meters tall stands amidst a cluster of shorter rocks. Within this circle lies a chambered tomb. These are the Standing Stones of Callanish on the Isle of Lewis, a 5,000-year-old monument created by Stone Age men from the oldest rocks in the British Isles. 一块4.8公尺高的巨石耸立，旁边环绕一群较矮的岩石，石阵中央有一座坟。这是Lewis岛的 Callanish立石阵，由五千年前石器时代的人以不列颠群岛最古老的岩石建造而成。 Print 41 is paired with Cask No. 0004703.

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A tall Scotsman looks challengingly at the camera as he waits to be served at a snack bar inside the busy Barras Market in central Glasgow. The mural above him features Margaret McIver, the feisty entrepreneur who built the market in 1926. 在格拉斯哥市中心繁忙 的Barras市场内一家小吃 店，一位高大的苏格兰人 挑衅地看着相机，他在​​等 食物送来。他身后的壁画 描绘精力充沛的市场创办 人Margaret McIver，她在 1926年创办了Barras市场。 Print 55 is paired with Cask No. 0004376.

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ACRES OF GREEN ARE PUNCTUATED with patches

一望无际的绿色田野偶然现出几分深紫，

of deep purple. Wild skies brood over hills

雾霭沉沉，山雨欲来，朦胧的山丘中，一

shrouded in veils of mist. The stillness of a

只惊起的松鸡啼啭，打破松香树林的寂静。

fragrant pine forest is broken by the chirp of a

湍急的溪流在这片雄伟的景色中纵横，带

startled grouse. Out of this magnificent landscape

着石南的清幽与泥炭的浓郁土香，蜿蜒流

spring fast-flowing streams, scented by heather

过景色如画的湖泊与蓄满纯净淡水的水库，

and flavored by the rich peat soil. They wind

准备好加进麦芽，便能蒸馏成顶级的单一

through the scenery filling lochs and reservoirs

麦芽威士忌。这里是苏格兰。

with pure fresh water, ready to be added to

一 位 高 龄 85 岁 的 美 国 摄 影 师， 带 着

malted grain and distilled into fine single malt

摄影机在苏格兰各地旅行，捕捉到 158 幅

whisky. This is Scotland.

令人惊叹的影像，呈现出苏格兰乡间的丰

An 85-year-old American travels around Scotland with a camera, capturing in 1 5 8

他 是 Elliott Erwitt， 以 敏 锐 的 观 察 力 与 精

stunning images the richness and bleakness of

准的拍摄时机闻名于世，善于全神贯注聚

its countryside and the tough, resilient spirit of

焦在生命决定性的瞬间，创造美丽、诙谐、

its people. He is Elliott Erwitt, famous for his

令人难忘的影像。他喜欢照人，也对狗十

sensitivity and his uncanny timing, for his ability

分热爱，最重要的是他喜欢设置一个场景，

to zero in on life’s decisive moments to create

等待神奇的画面发生，然后拍摄下来。他

beautiful, witty, unforgettable images. He likes

说： 「摄影是观察的艺术，是从平凡中创造

to photograph people. He has a great sympathy

不凡。」

for dogs. Most of all he likes to set a scene, wait

Erwitt 的 照 片 收 录 在 Elliott Erwitt’s

until something magical happens, and then shoot.

Great Scottish Adventure 一书中，书页里

“Photography is an art of observation,” he says.

藏了一只纯手工玻璃瓶盛装的麦卡伦限量

“It’s about creating something extraordinary out

版单一麦芽威士忌。这次 Erwitt 与麦卡伦

of the ordinary.”

酒厂合作推出摄影大师系列，并从摄影作

Erwitt’s photos appear in Elliott Erwitt’s Great

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富与苍凉，还有苏格兰人民的强悍与坚韧。

品中选出 58 张他最喜爱的创作亲授签名，

Scottish Adventure, a book which conceals a

Erwitt 认为这几张作品最能传达苏格兰的

hand-made glass flask of The Macallan’s limited

坚毅、美丽与魔力。接着，麦卡伦威士忌

edition single malt within its pages. As part of

酿酒师 Bob Dalgarno 再将单桶原装威士忌

the whisky maker’s Masters of Photography

与各张作品精心搭配，根据麦芽的色泽、

series, Erwitt has also chosen and signed 58

风味与强度挑选适合的佳酿，使威士忌的

of his favorite images, the ones he feels really

精髓与作品和谐辉映，每组独一无二的摄

capture the grit, beauty and magic of Scotland.

影作品与威士忌珍酿组合只限 35 套。酿酒

The Macallan Whisky Maker Bob Dalgarno has

师 Dalgarno 说 ： 「选出 58 桶单桶纯麦威士

carefully paired each of these photographs

忌，搭配 Elliott 在苏格兰大冒险中最喜爱

with a single cask malt whisky. He considered

的 58 幅作品，这任务虽不容易，却是很美

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A cooper climbs into a barrel at Edrington Cooperage, West Lothian. The ancient art of cooperage still flourishes today as oak is crafted into barrels and bound with copper hoops. This cask will eventually hold The Macallan’s signature style whisky. 在West Lothian的Edrington制桶场，一位桶匠把身子探进桶里。古老的制桶技艺如今依然 活跃，桶匠将栎木制成桶，箍上铜圈。这个酒桶最后会装入麦卡伦的招牌威士忌。 Print 56 is paired with Cask No. 0016032.

Elliott Erwitt was born in Paris in 1928, the son of Jewish-Russian parents, and moved to America at the age of ten. He started out as a photographer’s assistant in the 1950s in the US Army and then joined Magnum Photos in 1953. His work has been featured in publications around the world for over half a century.

Elliott Erwitt于1928年出生于巴黎的犹太裔俄罗斯家庭，十岁搬到美国。 1950年代他在美国军中担任摄影师的助 A cooper climbs into a barrel at Edrington Cooperage, West Lothian. The ancient art of cooperage still flourishes today as oak 手，1953年加入Magnum Photos摄影通讯社。逾五十年来，他的作品登载于各式刊物，流传于世界各地。 is crafted into barrels and bound with copper hoops. This cask will eventually hold The Macallan’s signature style whisky. 间温度在沿海加州浸到40年代的高，但我们的游泳池是人为加热到79度的温度差推动一个令人毛骨悚然的蒸汽柱从水的表面， 产生怪异的气氛的狼人电影。接下来的震撼。头朝下浸入不温不火的水给我们的心灵赛车，我，我们的教练出现的雾。 Print 56 is paired with Cask No. 0016032.

photo feature

color, flavor and strength when choosing a malt

妙的经验。以这种前所未有的规模，用威

whose essence would harmonize with each

士忌品尝影像，再透过影像鉴赏威士忌，

photograph. Only 35 editions of each unique art-

带给人振奋的感觉。」

and-whisky pairing have been created. “Selecting

这几帧精致的照片中，有些是美丽的

58 individual single cask malt whiskies to bring to

乡村，有些是萧瑟荒凉的地区，更有些刻

life Elliott’s 58 favorite images of his Great Scottish

画了都市中坚韧不拔的场景，每一张都是

Adventure was wonderfully challenging,” says

Erwitt 认为值得捕捉的瞬间。有时影像中

Dalgarno. “Tasting the image through the whisky

也明显感受得到 Erwitt 自己的惊喜之情，

and the whisky through the image on such an

例如有张作品，展现了小女孩排队等炸鱼

unprecedented scale was inspiring.”

薯条，兴奋地跳起来的时刻。 Erwitt 无法

The photographs are exquisite. Some show beautiful countryside. Some show bleak and

预测到这个美妙的瞬间，但他一直等待这 个时刻。

desolate areas. Others portray grittier urban

Erwitt 作品主题丰富多样，例如在松

scenes. All show a moment that Erwitt felt was

鸡狩猎季的第一天，一群富有的人带着狗

worth capturing. Sometimes his own sense of

举办狩猎会，准备启程踏入 Coignafearn

surprise is delightfully palpable in the images, as

庄园壮丽的景致里 ；另一幅则是一群硬汉

when a little girl waiting in line for fish and chips

在 格 拉 斯 哥 市 中 心 的 Bairds 酒 吧 饮 酒 欢

leaps excitedly up into the air. It’s a moment that

唱 ；这 两 幅 作 品 形 成 鲜 明 的 对 比。 但 对

Erwitt couldn’t have predicted – just the wonderful

Erwitt 来说，一切都与决定性的瞬间有关。

sort of moment he’d been waiting for.

「你选择一个框架，然后等待适合的时机，

There is a breadth and diversity to the subject

让神奇的画面出现填满框架。进行这项工

matter of Erwitt’s work. A wealthy shooting party

作时，我了解到这正是威士忌酿酒师 Bob

and their dogs, preparing to set off through the

酿造麦卡伦的工作方式。他预先设想威士

grand surroundings of Coignafearn Estate on the

忌的风味，选择完美的木桶酿造，然后耐

first day of the grouse season, contrasts sharply

心等候。最重要的就是时机。」

with the tough crowd drinking and singing in Bairds Bar in central Glasgow. But for Erwitt, it is all about the moment: “You choose a frame and then wait until the right time for something magical to come along and fill it. I realised while working on this project that this is exactly the way Bob, the Whisky Maker, works when creating The Macallan.

He envisages how he wants a particular whisky to taste, selects the perfect cask to create it, and then he waits! Timing is everything.”

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tasting notes

西厨乐上菜

spaniards on fire Three Spanish maestros put the fire in QUEMO with their infectious energy and culinary talents. fare and Catalan staples like octopus, olives IN THE HEART OF BARCELONA, sandwiched and eggplants. between sunny, tree-lined avenues, sits the Mercat de St Josep de la Boqueria, known Amid the madness is El Quim de la to locals simply as “La Boqueria.” In a city Boqueria, or Quim’s, the storied and celeobsessed with food, La Boqueria is a cathebrated tapas joint, run for twenty-five years dral – a massive, bustling market by proprietor and chef Quim BY overflowing with vegetable stalls, Márquez. Quim’s is a regular desMADELINE GRESSEL tination for Barcelona’s top chefs, fish mongers, confectionaries, clacking strings of dried pepincluding Ferran Adrià, who come PHOTOGRAPHY BY pers, mushroom men minding to breakfast on eggs, tripe, meatheaping, musky carts, and of JOSEPHINE ROZMAN balls, oxtail and mushrooms. course, enormous haunches of “It’s where we all three concured meat. Built in 1840 on the site of a nected,” says Chef Aitor Olabegoya. He demolished church, La Boqueria is both means himself, Angel Pascual, and Márquez, Barcelona’s oldest market and its most the three culinary maestros behind QUEMO, important. Tourists and chefs, both wanderHong Kong’s newest and most exciting Spanish restaurant. ing and local, flock to the market daily in the tens of thousands to scoop up international After traveling to Beijing to promote

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Spanish food in 2007, Olabegoya never looked back. “The mind of the Spanish chef opens in Asia,” he explains. “You realize: they are lying in Spain! All that they said was Spanish – a lot of it comes from Asia. Like black garlic. It put into my mind: Asia, Asia, Asia.”

Together, the three chefs are energetic and hilarious, laughing and joking in a torrent of rounded Catalan Spanish and accented English. In the kitchen, they jostle with a casual, creative energy, elbowing one another and vying for the best food shots with their iPhones – gastronomical selfies. Olabegoya, comfortable in English, speaks for the other two, translating to-and-fro and editorializing along the way.

Their shared passion for cooking is palpable. QUEMO specializes in food native to the

tasting notes

Left: The Executive Chef of QUEMO Hong Kong, Angel Pascual Middle: The Owner of El Quim de la Boqueria in Barcelona, Quim Marquez

JOSEPHINE ROZMAN (4)

Right: The Executive Chef of Migas in Beijing, Aitor Olabegoya

在巴塞隆纳市中心，两条阳光明媚的林荫 大道之间，坐落着 Mercat de St Josep de la Boqueria 市 集， 当 地 称 为「La Boqueria」。 在这座崇仰美食的城市，La Boqueria 有如 一座大圣堂。 La Boqueria 是一座熙熙攘攘 的大型市场，里头有蔬菜摊、鱼贩和糖果 点心铺，串串干辣椒轻碰发出喀哒声，男 人顾着推车上堆积如山、散发麝香的蘑菇， 当然，还有大条大条的火腿。 La Boqueria 于 1840 年改建自教堂遗址，是巴塞隆纳最 古老也最重要的市场。无论是到此游历或 是住在当地，每天都数以万计的游客和厨 师涌入市场，搜罗各国美食和章鱼、橄榄、 茄子等加泰隆尼亚知名物产。 在 这 一 片 喧 闹 狂 欢 中， 有 间 著 名 的 传奇小吃店 El Quim de la Boqueria，又称 Quim’s，店主兼大厨 Quim Márquez 在此一 干就是二十五年。巴塞隆纳的顶尖大厨习 惯来此一饱口福，包括分子厨艺大师 Fer-

ran Adrià 也会来这里点鸡蛋、牛肚、肉丸、 牛尾和蘑菇当早餐。 Aitor Olabegoya 大厨说 ： 「我们三个就 是在这儿相遇。」他说的是他自己、Angel Pascual 和 Márquez，也正是这三位厨艺大 师，主理香港最新开幕、人气十足的西班 牙餐厅「QUEMO 」。 Olabegoya 自从 2007 年前往北京推广 西班牙美食后，就无法回头了。他解释 ： 「西班牙厨师在亚洲眼界大开，他突然明白， 在西班牙他们都在说谎！他们说的西班牙 的食物，很多都来自亚洲，像发酵黑蒜就是。 我心里充满这个念头：亚洲、亚洲、亚洲。」 三位大厨在一起时活力十足、又笑又 闹，嘻嘻哈哈、滔滔不绝地说着圆润的加 泰隆尼亚西班牙语及带着口音的英语。在 厨房里，他们无拘无束、充满创意的能量 互相激荡，手肘推推挤挤，用 iPhone 帮食 物照相，争着说自己的美食自拍照最好看。

Olabegoya 能自在地说英语，于是帮另外两 个人发言、来回翻译，同时一边评论。 他 们 三 人 对 烹 饪 的 热 情 有 目 共 睹。 QUEMO 专攻西班牙地中海传统料理，不 过三位大厨都坚称，真正的重点是纯正的 食材。 Olabegoya 说 ： 「我们在料理中加进 色彩不只是为了好看。我们运用所有感官， 每项安排都有合理的原因。技术和创新只 是用来表现食材的工具。」 因此，三位厨师从到当地市场扫货开 始。 Olabegoya 说 ： 「这里的苹果和西班牙 的苹果不一样，这里有些食材要好得多。 西班牙也有芒果，但这里的芒果好上一千 倍。西班牙也有大蒜，但这里的大蒜也非 常棒。我们根据从市场找到的食材创作， 尽可能多用本地产品。别忘了，也许我们 喜欢坐商务舱，但食材可不喜欢。他们不 喜欢冷冻库、不喜欢飞机，更不喜欢海关！」 当然，某些特殊食材必须从家乡空运 appetite for art

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Quim’s Crab with Egg, Padrón Peppers and Fries Quim’s 著名的软壳蟹煎蛋

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Homemade Duck Ham with Foie Powder, Orange and Cacao Grue 自制熏鸭火腿配鹅肝粉，香橙和可可脆片

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Razor Clams Tower with Soft Aioli, Roasted Apple Skin and Chili 蛏子塔佐软蒜泥蛋黄酱，烤 苹果皮和辣椒

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Easter Chocolate Surprise 巧克力惊喜

Mediterranean region of Spain, but the three sweaty, and invigorated, to their hotel and chefs insist that their true emphasis is on the began assembling QUEMO’s new menu. purity of their ingredients. Olabegoya says: The three amigos cook dishes that are both wonderfully suggestive of home and “We don’t put color on the plate just to put color. We use all the senses, and have a rationprovocative to the palate. They carefully toe the line between precision and spontaneity, ale for everything. Techniques and innovations offering both warm accessibility and attenare only tools to showcase the product.”

Accordingly, the team begins by scourtion-sharpening innovation. Each dish offers ing local markets. “One apple here and one a crackling sense of play, as though the flavors apple in Spain are not the same,” says Olaand ingredients were engaging one another in begoya. “Some products here are much your mouth, teasing each other perhaps, not better. We have mangoes in Spain, but the unlike the interaction among the three chefs. mangoes here are one thousand times A house-cured duck ham is enriched better. We have garlic in Spain, with foie gras, rounded by smoky but the garlic here is also cacao, and then sharpened really good. Based on with a sweet jab of what we find in the citrus. Soft-shell crab market, we create. is served slider-style with Quim’s famous We use as many local fried egg, topped products as possible. with Padrón pepDon’t forget: we may like to fly in business pers and served with class, but the proda tangle of thin fries. 美食高潮！ ucts don’t care. They The result is crunchy and deeply, satisfyingly don’t like the freezer; they don’t like the plane; flavorful. Their technique they don’t like customs!” is to assemble things in the Some special ingredients, of happiest, most harmonious way in course, must be flown in from the homeorder to reveal the true nature of each ingrediland. “Our heart, our DNA, the essence of ent. “ Puta madre!” they cry. “A gastro-orgasm!” the Mediterranean Sea – we need to bring Each chef adds his own personality and that here to make it real.” special talents to the mix: Pascual, the execThe chefs understand QUEMO’s misutive chef, is the encyclopedia; Olabegoya sion as bringing Hong Kongers a genuine and is the most visual; and Quim, he has the fresh taste of Barcelona, similar to what you instinct, the flash, à la minute. might find at La Boqueria. “We want to do “We feel lucky to be together,” says Olabereal food,” explains Olabegoya. “Real paella, goya. “We know that making one dish together thirty-eight centimeters for two people. Real will be better than making three dishes alone. beef. Fresh food. And we want our menu to Three minds, three feelings, maybe three serve what we are having in our homes. We ingredients, but one dish, one customer.” cook with feeling.”

Alongside their spectacular Spanish food, Recently, the trio was enchanted by a trip the trio hopes to import the atmosphere of La Boqueria, with its slightly madcap to the North Point Cooked Foods Center, famous for its raucous atmosphere and beer sense of fun. “The word quemo defines us served in bowls. “This is what we want for perfectly: burning. Quemo means already burning: we are fire. QUEMO is a state QUEMO! You see the smiles? We don’t want pictures of food – we want pictures of of mind, like happiness. We want to bring all our customers to this state of mind. It’s faces! This is the real, and the only, Boqueria happy food, our way of cooking.” we’ve found in Asia.” They returned, drunk,

“ Puta madre!

A gastro-orgasm! ”

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过来。「我们的心脏、我们的 DNA，地中 海的精髓 , 我们得把这些带过来，才能做 出正宗风味。」 大厨们了解，QUEMO 的使命就是把 巴塞隆纳最正宗、新鲜的风味，类似你在 La Boqueria 可能品尝到的滋味，带到香港 来。 Olbegoya 解释 ： 「我们想做真正的食 物，真正的西班牙海鲜饭，用 38 公分的大 镬煮两人份的饭。真正的牛肉、新鲜的食物。 还有，我们希望供应在家乡真正会吃的菜 色。我们投入感情做菜。」 最近这三个人到北角渣华道熟食中心 去了一趟，那里以气氛喧闹、用饭碗喝啤 酒出名，让三人大为倾倒。「我们想要的 QUEMO 就是这样！你看到那些开怀的笑 脸了吗？我们不要食物的照片，我们要拍 到脸的照片！这是我们在亚洲发现唯一、 真正的 Boqueria。」他们满身大汗、醉醺醺 地回到旅馆，开始组合 QUEMO 的新菜单。 这三个好伙伴烹调出的菜色，既带美 妙家乡味，吃起来又新奇刺激。他们小心 在精准与挥洒间追求平衡，既温暖而平易 近人，又有引人注目的创新，道道都展现 了鲜活玩心，仿佛香气与食材在嘴里互动， 和三位大厨的互动不无相似之处。 自制熏鸭火腿以鹅肝增添丰腴滋味， 烟熏可可口感圆润，酸甜的柠檬又带来一 丝刺激。软壳蟹夹在 Quim’s 著名的煎蛋中 间，上覆青椒，与香脆薯丝饼一起上桌， 吃来酥脆又有层次，美味得让人赞不绝口。 他们擅长以巧妙、平衡的方式结合食材， 展现每种食材真正的个性。他们大声嚷嚷 ： 「¡Puta madre ！美食高潮！」 三人组的每位厨师也展现了自己的个 性与特殊才能。行政主厨 Pascual 是百科全 书 ；Olabegoya 最有远见 ；Quim 极具天分、 动作迅速，可以现点现做。 Olabegoya 说 ： 「很幸运可以一起合作。 我们知道一起做一样菜，比独自做三样菜 要好。三颗头脑、三种感觉，也许有三种 食材，但做出来是一道菜，端给同一位客 人。 」 三 人 除 了 引 入 西 班 牙 美 食， 也 希 望 引 入 La Boqueria 戏 耍 胡 闹 的 欢 乐 气 氛。 「 我 们 正 如 店 名 quemo 所 形 容 的 ：燃 烧。 Quemo 的意思是燃烧起来，我们就是火焰。 Quemo 是一种心情，就像快乐。我们希望 带给所有客人这种心情。快乐的食物，快 乐的做菜。 」

JOSEPHINE ROZMAN (4)

tasting notes

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Hot Callebaut Chocolate Soup, Black Pepper Ice-Cream, Sesame Crisp 热巧克力汤，黑胡椒雪糕，芝麻薄脆

flavor dna

美食领路人

trailblazer Cooking for six nights at RIVA and The Deck as one of the Park Lane Hotel’s celebrity guest chefs, trailblazing Chef Scott Webster recently treated guests to a taste of Australia worth savoring.

AUSTRALIANS TEND TOWARDS skepticism 名 厨 Scott Webster 远 赴 香 港 柏 宁 酒 店 的 when it comes to chefs who cook fancy food RIVA 餐厅及露天平台，并担任了六天的客 with their country’s native bush foods. The 席厨师，其精湛厨艺使顾客们能一品令人 dishes are too often clichéd and halfhearted, 惊呼连连的澳洲美食。 conceived as novel eating experiences for 当名厨们绞尽脑汁，想让澳洲的丛林 tourists. Wow them with the wattle seeds, 料理摇身一变，成为精致时髦的佳肴时， you might say. 澳洲人常常不以为然。因为这些佳肴多半 “Bush tucker went the wrong way for a 乏善可尝、诚意缺缺，只针对初尝澳洲料 long while. I have often called it cringe cui理的观光客所设计，或刻意放几样特殊的 sine because people were not doing it right,” 食材，如当地特有的金合欢种子等，就想 agrees Chef Scott Webster. “Our bush food 让食客惊艳。名厨 Scott Webster 说 ： 「丛 is very challenging to work with 林料理误入歧途已经好一阵子 BY but it can be formal and elegant 了，我常说它是『奉承美食』， JO MCKINNON done the right way.” 大家努力的方向都不太对。澳洲 A culinary trailblazer, Chef 的丛林料理非常不好做，而事实 PHOTOGRAPHY BY Webster was one of the first 上方法用对了，其实可以非常精 JOSEPHINE ROZMAN Australian chefs to explore the 致而高雅。」 fine-dining potential of native 身为一位美食领路人，名厨 bush food traditionally used by AborigiWebster 是探索澳洲原住民传统丛林饮食的 nals, the country’s first inhabitants. He 先驱，还发掘出丛林饮食成为精致美食的 has travelled to some of Australia’s most 潜力。他不仅亲访澳洲最偏远的部落以增 remote Aboriginal communities to build his 广知识，更深入研究，研究当原住民口味 knowledge and gain a stronger understand遇见精致料理，将会迸出什么样的新滋味。 ing of the benefits of combining indigenous 对于如何「用对的方式烹煮丛林料理」， flavors.

Webster 自有一套。丛林食材对他而言，不 When he says, “done the right way,” Web是定位，而是提升了料理应用的层次。他 ster knows what he is talking about. Bush 熟练而精确地配置食材，于菜色中自信满 ingredients enhance rather than define his 满地运用超过二十五种天然丛林食物，这 cuisine. He deploys them with sophistica也是他和国内外许多厨师不同的地方。 tion, restraint and precision, confidently 「我一直坚守着一句话 ：不要沿着路走 , including more than twenty-five native 勇于走向无路的荒野，由自己开辟一条小径。 」

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Chef Scott Webster

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bush foods in a repertoire that sets him apart from many of his counterparts at home and abroad.

“I have a saying that I stick to and that is: don’t go where the path may lead; go where there is no path and lead the trail.”

Webster has owned a restaurant in London, worked as a chef in Hong Kong and opened the award-winning Osia Bar and Restaurant in Singapore. After almost thirty years living abroad he now prefers to spend most of his time at home in Australia, with family in Newcastle, New South Wales, where he runs boutique restaurant and accommodation outfit Carrington Place.

He says that his extensive experience in Asia has led him to love the region’s food.

“I would say that my style … boasts a lot of Asian flavors,” he says. “And I like to combine them with Australian indigenous flavors.”

He hits a surprising and satisfying note early on the menu with a wedge of watermelon, served with truffle-infused goat cheese and a raspberry lillipilli chip. The refreshing flavor of the watermelon is complemented perfectly by the soft mounds of truffle-infused goat cheese.

“The watermelon is the most important thing to taste.… When I first came here, the boys in the kitchen were using too much truffle in the goat cheese and all I could taste was truffle. So I told them to back off until the truffle complemented the vinegar flavor of the watermelon.”

The lillipilli, also known as riberry, is an evergreen rainforest plant that bears round red and purple berries with a tart, cranberrylike flavor and a hint of cloves. Lillipillies have been a popular bush food since the early 1980s.

“One of the most satisfying things I enjoy doing is making chutneys and relishes and lillipillies are especially great for this,” says Webster. “I do not like using a lot of butter and cream in my cooking and prefer to use these types of sauces with many of my dishes.”

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Polenta Crumbed Foie Gras, Wild Bush Fruit Chutney, Teriyaki Glaze 粟米鹅肝，野生水果酱，照烧汁

On the RIVA menu he presents a foie gras crumbed with polenta, serving it with a bush chutney that lightened the rich and buttery taste of the goose liver and gave the dish a nice sweet zing.

Black Angus beef tenderloin is one of the main courses on offer. Serving it over a blueberry risotto with field mushrooms, bacon, and a bone marrow sauce, Webster says he added the blueberry risotto to satisfy his own sweet tooth. But he has a way of making light of his own innovations: the sweetness has an important role to play, working perfectly to put the taste buds on alert that something special is happening, and to accent the rich savory flavor of the beef.

Webster’s sweet tooth came to the fore with the desserts on the Riva menu. A deliciously rich hot Callebaut chocolate soup with black pepper ice cream and a sesame crisp proved the most popular with Hong Kong diners.

A light and refreshing alternative was the lemon myrtle iced parfait with citrus mandarin juice and lemon thyme. A flowering plant endemic to subtropical rainforests in central and southeastern Queensland,

lemon myrtle is one of Australia’s most popular native herbs. “Lemon myrtle is similar to lemon grass. It is like a bay leaf and you dry and grind it,” says Webster. It contributed a fresh citrus fragrance to his parfait.

Not a single wattle seed appeared in any of Webster’s Park Lane dishes, but that’s not because he has an aversion. They just didn’t fit the bill this time around.

“The wattle seed is the emblem of our land. There are 144 types of Acacia Tree but only three or four that you can take the seed from and roast,” he said. “When you roast them it brings out a nutty, coffee-type flavor that is really great in breads.”

Perhaps Webster is reserving the wattle seed for his next visit to Hong Kong. One feels certain that whenever and however he decides to use them, it’ll be memorably delicious.

As part of its ongoing 40th anniversary celebrations, The Park Lane Hong Kong will be hosting another guest chef, Pol García, the Executive chef at El Patio Shanghai, on June 16-21. For information, go to: www.parklane. com.hk/promotion

flavor dna

Webster 在 伦 敦 有 一 家 餐 厅， 在 香 港 担任厨师，并在新加坡开设圣淘沙岛餐厅， 这让他获奖无数。已旅居国外三十多年的 他，如今大多待在澳洲的家乡。家人都在 新南威尔斯州的纽卡斯尔，他也在那经营 Carrington Place 精品酒店。 Webster 说他有许多时间都待在亚洲， 也爱上了亚洲美食。「我觉得我的料理具 有非常浓厚的亚洲风味，而且我喜欢把它 们和澳洲原住民口味作结合。」

他有一道令人惊喜又赞不绝口的菜色 利用一片西瓜、镶着松露的羊奶起司与覆 盆子赤楠果脆片一同上桌。西瓜清新的口 味搭配柔软的松露羊奶起司真是天作之合。 「西瓜是菜式主角，一定要凸显其味道。 当我刚到这里的时候，厨房里的厨师们在 羊奶起司里面加太多松露了，我只吃得到 松露的味道。因此我告诉他们必须减少松 露的量直到与西瓜里头带醋的味道互补后， 才能继续制作这道菜。」

Compression of Watermelon, Truffled Goat Cheese, Raspberry Lillipilli Vinegar Chip 羊奶芝士松露西瓜，红草莓香醋脆片

赤楠果，或称莱莓，是一种结红色或 紫色圆形果实的常青雨林植物，果实味酸， 像蔓越莓杂揉着丁香的味道，从 1980 年代 起就是备受欢迎的丛林食物。 Webster 说道 ： 「让我最有成就感的就 是制作酸辣酱和调味料，赤楠果味道跟它 们还特别搭。我不喜欢在菜里加很多酥油 或奶油，反而会选择自己的调味料。」 RIVA 餐厅及露天平台菜单上的碎鹅肝 玉米粥，和丛林酸辣酱一同上桌，使口感 浓郁、奶油味重的鹅肝尝起来较清淡，更 让这道菜多了一丝微甜。 黑安格斯牛柳是菜单其中一道主菜。 他把牛柳放在蓝莓烩饭上，伴加蘑菇、培 根 和 骨 髓 酱 汁。 Webster 说 之 所 以 在 此 款菜中加入蓝莓烩饭，完全是因为自己对 甜食情有独钟。他用独特的方法来展现创 新 ：甜味在这道菜中扮演重要的角色，不 止振奋了味蕾，也凸显出牛肉的饱满与美 味。 Webster 爱吃甜食，在 Riva 餐厅的菜 单上可见一斑。温热浓稠的嘉利宝巧克力 浓汤佐黑胡椒冰淇淋和芝麻脆片，也是一 款广受香港客人喜爱的甜点。 另一道轻食是柠檬香桃木百汇佐柑橘 汁和柠檬百里香。柠檬香桃木生长于昆士兰 中部及东南部的亚热带雨林，是当地特有的 开花植物，也是澳洲最受欢迎的草本植物。 「柠檬香桃木跟柠檬草很类似。它就像月桂 叶，只要干燥、磨碎便可入菜。 」Webster 说。 柠檬香桃木为百汇带出清新的柑橘香。 柏宁酒店的菜色中，一颗金合欢种子 都 没 出 现， 并 不 是 因 为 Webster 不 喜 欢， 只是尚未派上用场。 他说 ： 「金合欢种子是我们这块土地的 象征。澳洲总共有 144 种合欢树，但只有少 数三、四种的种子适合烘焙。烘焙时，它们 会散发出咖啡和坚果香，使面包倍添美味。 」 或许 Webster 打算把金合欢种子留到 下次到访香港时再用。但不论何时或何种 料理方法，我们能确定的是，届时端上桌 的一定是令人难以忘怀的好味道。

《柏宁酒店 40 周年志庆大厨巡礼》中，柏 宁酒店诚邀上海 El Patio 西班牙餐厅行政 总厨 Pol Garcia 於六月十六日至二十一日 亲临 RIVA 餐厅及露天平台担任客席大厨。 详 情 请 留 意 ：http://www.parklane.com.hk/ promotion appetite for art

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presented by sheraton macao hotel, cotai central

澳洲烤肉大餐

great aussie barbie At Sheraton Macao, it’s time to throw something tasty on the barbie.

 “AUSTRALIANS DON’T NEED an excuse to

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  Aussie Burgers: Grilled Black Angus Beef, Tas Heidi Gruyere, Bacon, Fried Egg, Pineapple, Beetroot

烧安格斯牛肉，澳洲大窿芝士， 烟肉，煎蛋，菠萝，红菜头汉堡

 Chef David King, Director of Culinary 厨艺总厨景大卫

 Sala Poolside Cafe 乐陶池畔咖啡厅  Marbled Black Angus Beef Rib Eye, Rose Harissa

安格斯雪花牛肉肉眼牛排，中东式辣椒膏

 Salad Bar 沙拉吧 FORBES CONRAD (5)

have a barbecue,” says David King, Director of Culinary at Sheraton Macao Hotel, Cotai Central. “We’ll turn any celebration into a barbecue occasion.”

Throughout the summer months, King and his team are bringing the delights of the Great Aussie Barbie to Macau, serving up classic Aussie barbecue fare such as grilled steaks, kangaroo fillets, minced lamb kebabs, and real Aussie burgers complete with pineapple and beetroot.

“There’s a real lack of formality about the Australian BBQ. It’s not relegated to any set format or a lot of rules,” says King. “We’re not bound by any tradition, we can make it all up as we go along. Australia is a melting pot of cultures, and that’s reflected in the way we BBQ.” Also sizzling on the barbie at Sala’s poolside cafe is a selection of seafood specialties including Tasmanian salmon, kingfish, barramundi and tiger prawns. “The beauty of Australian waters is that they give everything to our seafood,” says King. “So clean and pure.”

No true Aussie meal would be complete without a “dog’s eye and dead horse” – rhyming slang for a meat pie with tomato sauce.

At Sala you can choose from beef cheese and bacon, curry pie with mash, or the Tiger’s Pie, inspired by the dish served at the iconic Sydney food truck, Harry’s Café de Wheels, and made with braised beef cheek, potato and pea puree, and gravy. “It’s a real taste of home,” King says.

Hot damper, wattle seed bush bread and platters of salads of fresh figs, heirloom tomatoes and baby beetroots are the perfect accompaniment to the meats sizzling on the grills.

“There’s something primeval about fire and the flavors that it imparts,” says King.

“It’s very welcoming and gets back down to basics, which perfectly sums up the people of Australia.”

Sheraton Macao Hotel, Cotai Central Level 4, Sala Poolside Café 澳门喜来登金沙城中心酒店四楼乐陶池畔咖啡厅, +853 8113 1200, sheratonmacao.com

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“ There’s something primeval about fire and the flavors that it imparts. It’s very welcoming and gets back down to basics, which perfectly sums up the people of Australia. 火烤有种原始的感觉，产生的味道也非常特别， 除了象征回到美食的原点之外，也象征敞开双臂欢 迎所有来客，完全展现澳洲人随性好客的天性。” DAVID KING, DIRECTOR OF CULINARY AT SHERATON MACAO HOTEL 澳门喜来登金沙城中心酒店厨艺总监–景大卫

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澳门喜来登金沙城中心酒店澳洲籍行政总 厨景大卫在谈到澳洲人对 BBQ 烤肉的热爱 程度时直呼 ： 「要吃 BBQ 根本无须理由， 不管庆祝什么，最后都会变成烤肉大会。」 整个夏天，景大卫和团队将在「乐陶」 池畔咖啡厅端上原汁原味的澳洲 BBQ 飨 宴，经典烤肉料理一字排开，包括碳烤牛排、 袋鼠排、烤碎羊肉串以及最道地的澳式汉 堡。景大卫表示 ： 「享受澳洲 BBQ 没有任 何繁文缛节，一切都是随性所至。澳洲是 个文化大熔炉，从 BBQ 的作法可见一斑。」 烤肉架上滋滋作响的还有各式澳洲进 口的活海鲜，像是塔斯马尼亚三文鱼、石 首鱼、金目鲈和虎虾。景大卫自豪说道： 「澳 洲临海水域质地纯净清澈，所有优点都集 中在海鲜身上。」 不 过 若 没 尝 过 所 谓 的「dog’s eye and dead horse（意思是澳洲俚俗中的肉派配上 蕃茄酱）」，可别说你吃过澳洲大餐。在「乐 陶」，食客可以自由选择牛肉起司和培根、 咖喱派佐薯泥，或是尝试向雪梨餐车老店 「Harry’s Café de Wheels」 致 敬 的 老 虎 批， 它以炖牛颊肉、马铃薯及豌豆泥制成，最 后淋上肉酱便能成为令人垂涎的餐点，套 句总厨的话，真的「有家的味道」。 搭配烤架上热腾腾的肉类料理，餐厅 精心准备了热丹波面包、金合欢籽，以及 新鲜无花果、祖传蕃茄及嫩甜菜根为食材 的沙拉盘，应有尽有。景大卫进一步说明 ： 「火烤有种原始的感觉，产生的味道也非常 特别，除了象征回到美食的原点之外，也 象征敞开双臂欢迎所有来客，完全展现澳 洲人随性好客的天性。」 appetite for art

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presented by zespri

天然孕育 奇珍异果

Naturally Grown Goodness As ships bearing the 2014 harvest of Zespri kiwifruit left the Port of Tauranga for markets across the world, Kate Nicholson visited the heart of kiwifruit country in New Zealand to learn more about the country’s iconic fruit.

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THE TRANSFORMATION OF KIWIFRUIT from a novelty garden plant to a key export crop is one of New Zealand’s great success stories. In January 1904, a Wanganui headmistress named Isabel Fraser returned home from a missionary posting in Yichang, China, carrying with her a little bundle of seeds taken from walnut-sized fuzzy brown berries. The seeds loved their new home. New Zealanders called the new fruit Yichang gooseberries. By the 1920s, vines were being offered for sale by several North Island nurserymen and, by the 1970s, commercial plantings began to spring up.

Plantings concentrated around the Bay of Plenty, where the thriving plants sank their roots into the region’s fertile volcanic soil and soaked up the abundant sunshine and regular rainfall. Known over the years by a variety of names – the hairy pear, the monkey peach, the vegetal mouse – the fruit didn’t truly catch on globally until it acquired its current name: the kiwi.

Today, as the home of around eighty percent of New Zealand’s kiwifruit orchards, the Bay of Plenty is the heart of the industry. Combine this density of growers with the North Island’s comprehensive network of Zespri-supplying pack houses, cool stores and the modern, busy shipping port that is the Port of Tauranga, and it makes real sense that Zespri, a grower-owned global marketer of kiwifruit, is based in the region. With a network of 2,700 contracted growers, 53 packing facilites and 85 cool stores, a market share in over 50 countries, a world-leading kiwifruit research and development program and an annual turnover of NZD$1.56 billion, Zespri and the wider New Zealand kiwifruit industry are world horticulture leaders. 从新颖的果园植物摇身一变成为主要的出口农产品，奇异 果的蜕变可说是纽西兰行销业的成功典范之一。1904 年 1 月 , 纽西兰旺格努伊市一位名为伊莎贝尔 • 弗莱瑟 (Isabel Fraser) 的女校长 , 到中国湖北的宜昌传教 , 回程带了一小 袋野生奇异果的种子并交由果农栽种。从此奇异果就开 始了它在纽西兰的神奇之旅。果农发现栽种出来的果实 如核桃般大小 , 还具有棕色的毛茸茸外皮。更令人欣喜的 是，当地气候非常适合奇异果生长 , 纽西兰人称之为「宜 昌鹅莓」 。 1920 年代 , 许多北岛的农场都种植销售这种果 实 , 到了 1970 年代 , 大批果农纷纷开始进行商业化种植 , 栽种区域主要集中在丰盛湾 (Bay of Plenty), 该地气候条 件极佳 , 不仅日照充足 , 降雨适中 , 还具有肥沃的火山土 , 奇异果园内一片欣欣向荣。多年来奇异果曾经换了不少名 弥猴桃、鼠果等 , 直到被命名为「奇异果」后 , 称 , 如毛梨、 才真正闻名全球。 目前 , 纽西兰约 80% 的奇异果园都聚集在丰盛湾地 区 , 该区俨然成为奇异果产业的心脏地带 , 如此密集的果 园 , 再加上 Zespri 奇异果在北岛完整的生产体系 , 从包装 厂、冷藏仓储 , 到现代装运港 — 陶朗加港口一应俱全 , 难 怪这个完全由果农自主拥有经营的世界品牌 , 会选择此地 作为其生产基地。Zespri 产业链涵盖 2,700 位供货果农， 53 家合作的包装厂及 85 座冷藏仓储，行销足迹遍及世界 50 余国 , 并推动领先全球的奇异果研发计画 , 年产值达纽 币 15.6 亿元 , 堪称全球奇异果产业以及其他农产品的领 导品牌。

presented by zespri

质胜于量

Quality Over Quantity IN ORDER TO DELIVER on their promise of providing passionate kiwi eaters with the highest quality fruit possible, Zespri focuses on the entire lifecycle of their product, what they proudly call the Zespri System. “It is essentially our end-to-end supply chain, everything from growing the fruit, picking, packing and getting it to market,” explains Melanie Palmer, Zespri’s Global Marketing Manager. “And it’s not just about the processes along the way – it’s about the really stringent food safety and quality certifications that are in place for every step of that process.”

KiwiGreen, the company’s Intergrated Pest Monitoring (IPM) system, was introduced to Zespri growers in 1995 in an effort to minimize chemical and pesticide use at Zespri-contracted orchards.

Orchardists are encouraged to closely monitor their vines for pest outbreaks. If a problem is identified, they treat only that particular issue with a selection of natural weed and pest control methods. KiwiGreen runs alongside other grower and after-harvest regulation systems such as Zespri’s Crop Protection and Residue Programs.

In their pack houses and cool stores, Zespri’s quality control systems – which include internal auditing, cooling and temperature monitoring, and ongoing training – ensure that strict company, government and industry requirements are met for important product attributes like grade, weight and packaging. These Zespri-accredited facilities range from family-run, on-orchard operations processing 250,000 trays per year, to a large commercial pack house that can turn out twelve million trays.

为了实现对客户的承诺 , 让热爱奇异果的大众享受 最顶级的品质 , Zespri 致力于完整生命周期的管理 , 建立完备的「Zespri 品质管理系统」, Zespri 全球行 销主管帕尔默女士 (Melanie Palmer) 表示 :「基本 上这个系统涵盖我们整个供应链 , 包含从果园种植、 采收、包装到装载运送至市场的所有过程 , 不仅仅 是程序作业 , 而是在每一个环节都落实食品安全与 品质的严格把关。 」

KiwiGreen 是 Zespri 于 1995 年 独 创 的 综 合 虫 害防治管理 (IPM) 系统 , 旨在将 Zespri 契作果园中 化学物与除虫剂的使用量降到最低 , 并鼓励果农密 集监看园内的蔓藤是否遭到病虫侵害 , 一旦发现问 题 , 果农会针对受影响区域 , 采取数种天然的除草或 除虫方式处理 , 确保果园不受虫害干扰。KiwiGreen 也与其他的果农及果实采收后的品质管制系统并行 , 如 Zespri 作物保护及残留物检测系统等。 在包装厂与冷藏仓储等环节中 , Zespri 的品管 系统包含内部稽核、冷藏温度监控与持续的教育训 练 , 以确保能同时符合公司、政府、产业有关产品 特性的重要规范 , 如奇异果的等级、重量和包装等。

Zespri 认证的包装厂规模分布很广 , 小至家庭式包 装厂 , 每年可处理 25 万个包装盘的奇异果 , 大至商 业经营的包装厂 , 每年可产出 1,200 万个包装盘的 奇异果。 appetite for art

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发展多元化

Developing Diversity 绿色奇异果 (Zespri Green) 外皮带淡棕色绒毛 , 果肉丰厚 , 呈 现草绿色泽 , 具有独特的甜味与扑鼻香气 , 不仅是最知名的奇 异果品种 , 也象征着 Zespri 产品线的里程碑。绿色奇异果又称 海华德 (Hayward) 品种 , 是 1920 年代由海华德 . 莱特 (Hayward

Wright) 所培植而成的新品种。现在 Zespri 与纽西兰作物暨食 品研究所 (Plant & Food Research) 等科学机构携手合作 , 投入 各式奇异果研发计画 , 向开创者莱特先生与其 精湛的园艺致 上万分敬意。

Zespri 致力于培植不同种类的奇异果。帕尔默女士指出 :「奇异果原生品种多 , 有许多不同的形状、大小和味道 , 当中 还有能轻易去皮的品种 , 但是任何新品种在贴上 Zespri 的标 」经过十年的不懈努力，团队 签之前 , 都需要经过层层关卡。 培植出了香甜多汁的 Charm 黄金奇异果。目前，Zespri 主要 的研究方向更着重于培植味道更佳、贮存寿命长、尺寸良好、 有趣的果肉颜色，及更有吸引力，如能轻易去皮等新奇要素 的奇异果。帕尔默女士补充 :「我们的目标不是未来五到十年 内能推出的品种 , 而是将目光放在三十年以后 , 我们会依据所 掌握的消费者口味趋势 , 来决定现在我们的自然培植方式。 」 所有新品种都是经过自然授粉，蔓藤生长及果实评估等过程， 需要超过七至十年时间培植。

ZESPRI GREEN, with its furry brown skin, fleshy grass-green interior and unique sweet and tangy flavor, is the most iconic of the kiwifruit cultivars; it is the cornerstone of the company’s product portfolio. Also known as Hayward, Zespri Green was first cultivated in the 1920s by New Zealand horticulturalist Hayward Wright. Today’s kiwifruit research and development initiatives, led by Zespri in partnership with leading research organisations like New Zealand science company Plant & Food Research, pay homage to Hayward’s pioneering green thumb.

Zespri researchers marvel at the massive variety of naturally occuring kiwifruit. “Growing in the wild, there are lots of different shapes, sizes and flavors of kiwifruit. There are peelable varieties,” explains Palmer.

“Any new variety, however, has a lot of hurdles to overcome before it can be labeled with a Zespri sticker.” The Zespri team spent ten years to develop the delicious golden Zespri Charm varietal. Current research is focused on developing kiwifruit with appealing taste profiles, long storage life, good size, interesting interior colors and attractive novelty factors such as peelable skins. “We’re not only looking for the varieties that we can release within the next five to ten years. We’re looking out beyond thirty years, using what we know about where consumer preferences are heading to influence the natural plant breeding decisions we’re making today.” All the new varieties result from a natural process of pollination, vine growth and fruit assessment that happens gradually over seven to ten years.

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presented by zespri

天天一颗奇异果，营养充沛好乐活

Daily Scoop of Amazing R E G U L A R LY A P P E A R I N G on lists of the world’s most nutritious “superfoods,” kiwifruit is packed full of the essential ingredients of good health.

Zespri’s tagline, “a daily scoop of amazing ,” is more than clever marketing. Those seedspeckled emerald interiors contain an abundance of wellness in the form of natural nutrition: everything from fiber and Vitamins C and E to folate and potassium and more.

One lesser-known star of kiwi nutrition is the enzyme actinidin. Beneficial to digestive health, actinidin helps the body to break down many kinds of animal and vegetable proteins.

When we eat kiwifruit with food containing protein, the body is better able to absorb the amino acids from that protein, explains Dr Juliet Ansell, Zespri’s Innovation Leader, Health & Nutrition. “There’s also an increase in the stomach emptying rate,” she says. “And this leads to a feeling of comfort.”

High in fiber and with a low glycemic index, kiwifruit feeds beneficial digestive bacteria, stimulates the production of the body’s natural antibiotics, maintains even blood sugar levels, and keeps you feeling full longer. As a bonus, these effects are additive. “If you eat kiwifruit with other foods, it actually has a greater benefit,” says Dr Ansell.

Kiwifruit has extraordinarily high levels of Vitamin C: the average kiwi contains 90 milligrams of the nutrient. “Vitamin C has many functions in the body,” Dr Ansell explains. “And eating kiwifruit is a really good way to get your daily Vitamin C.” Zespri’s research has recently focused on the effects of this essential vitamin on the immune system, brain, muscle and blood function, and collagen production. A study done at the University of Otago, Christchurch, found that eating two kiwis daily enhances vitality and promotes a feeling of well-being.

A mild spring and summer in New Zealand’s Bay of Plenty led to a bumper crop of Zespri kiwifruit. The New Zealand harvest of kiwifruit began in March this year and the first international shipments of Zespri headed out from the Port of Tauranga in April. If you haven’t already enjoyed your first delicious bite of the 2014 season’s bounty, you will soon.

在全球营养价值最高的「超级食物 (superfoods)」名单中 , 奇 异果是榜上常客 , 因为它富含各种营养素 , 正如 Zespri 标签 上 的标语写着 :「天天一颗奇异果 , 营养充沛好乐活」(a daily

scoop of amazing), 这可不只是一句广告词。拥有翡翠色果肉 及放射状黑色种籽的奇异果集诸多营养于一身，包括纤维素、 维他命 C、维他命 E、叶酸及钾等，是健康活力的泉源。 较少为人知的是 , 奇异果含有一种独特酵素 actinidin, 能 分解多种动植物性蛋白质 , 有助人体消化 , 若进食含有蛋白质 的食物，奇异果能帮助人体吸收蛋白质中的胺基酸 , 健康营养 部门的创意开发主管安瑟尔博士 ( Juliet Ansell) 表示 :「奇异果 」 还能加速肠胃消化 , 消除饱胀感 , 让人神清气爽。 奇异果具有高纤维、低升糖指数 , 能增加肠道益菌 , 刺激 细胞制造天然抗体 , 有助稳定血糖 , 而且饱足感较为持久。不 仅如此 , 奇异果的营养价值还具有累加效应 , 安瑟尔博士指出 : 「吃奇异果时 , 如果搭配其他食物 , 能发挥更大的健康功效。 」 奇异果的维他命 C 含量高，平均每颗含有 90 毫克 , 安瑟 尔博士说 :「维他命 C 是人体不可或缺的营养素 , 吃奇异果是 」Zespri 的最新研究是探讨维他 每天摄取维命他 C 的好方法。 命 C 对于人体免疫系统、大脑、肌肉、血管、胶原蛋白生成 的影响。 基督城奥塔哥大学的一项研究发现，每天进食两个 奇异果可以增强活力及提升幸福的感觉。 今年纽西兰丰盛湾的春夏季节气候温和 , 奇异果大丰收 , 采收作业从三月开始进行 , 第一批国际运送船只已于四月从纽 西兰陶朗加港口启航 , 今年还没尝到第一口奇异美味的人 , 赶 紧加快购买脚步吧！。

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presented by sarment

情有所钟

wine we want to drink Sarment enriches the Asian wine scene by importing an exciting variety of great wines from small producers. At the Sarment lounge in Hong Kong, TK met with sommelier Sébastien Chevalier to hear about the company’s wine philosophy.

THE CHINESE ARE NOW the world’s biggest consumers of red wine. Since Hong Kong rescinded all duties on wine in 2008, the field has been overrun with importers and merchants who want in on the action. In a market that demands marquee names from the world’s most famous appelations, Sarment stands out by keeping things small.

“It’s quite simple,” says Sarment sommelier Sébastien Chevalier. “We select wine we want to drink. It’s as simple as that. You want to have a glass and then another glass. We choose wine that is not artificially made, wine that is true, true to what we believe in.”

That means Sarment’s portfolio is packed with lesser-known wines from small wineries in regions that, at least in China, are often overshadowed by the famous chateaux of Bordeaux.

“The wineries we are representing are not from big domaines, you know – they are boutique. Obviously the quantities are limited. The downside is that we are not going to have an endless supply. It’s our choice.

Obviously we know that some wines are by allocation, available for just a few markets.

We can’t supply everywhere. And we don’t want to.”

Wines offered by Sarment include Yves Cuilleron’s superb Rhône bottlings, the distinctive Champagnes of grower Jacques Picard, and wines as esoteric as the Irouléguy from Domaine de Brana in the deep southwestern corner of France.“We believe that what’s in the bottle is going to

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Sarment 自许多小型酒厂进口种类繁多的美 酒 , 使得亚洲葡萄酒业更加多元化。日前 在 Sarment 的香港酒廊，侍酒师谢瓦利耶 （Sébastien Chevalier）向 TK 娓娓道来该企 业的葡萄酒哲学。 时至今日，中国拥有着全球最大的红 酒消费市场。香港自从 2008 年取消葡萄酒 进口关税以來，涌入许多进口商与零售商， 他们都想从中分一杯羹。尽管市场上充斥 全球知名酒商旗下的大品牌，Sarment 却 自成一体，专注于品质而非规模，因此能 够脱颖而出， Sarment 专业侍酒师谢瓦利耶（Sébastien Chevalier）表示 ： 「道理很简单。我们 只挑自己想喝的葡萄酒，仅此而已，且要 让人喝后欲罢不能。我们挑选的酒没有人 工添加物，全都是天然酿造，这样才符合 我们的信念。」 换 句 话 说，Sarment 经 销 的 葡 萄 酒 往 往来自知名度较低的小酒厂 ；这些小酒厂 所在的产区，多半不若波尔多的各大酒庄 来得响亮，至少在中国市场的情况是如此。 「我们代理的酒厂都不是来自大产区， 而是小规模经营，产量势必有限。这就造 成我们无法持续供货，但这是我们的选择。 我们晓得有些葡萄酒只限量供应给某些市 场，这也是无奈之举。」 Sarment 经 销 的 葡 萄 酒 包 括 ：Yves Cuilleron 产 区 的 上 等 隆 河 酒 款、Jacques Picard 独立酒庄香槟，以及遥远的法国西 南部布哈纳区所产的顶级 Irouléguy 葡萄酒。 「我们相信，葡萄酒本身就能帮我们带 来生意。我们只需要打开瓶盖，接下来就 靠葡萄酒的风味去征服客户，因为我们对 酒的品质很有信心。」

DAVID HARTUNG

presented by sarment

“ We tailor-make our programs for each kind of customer. We can’t do just one kind of course for everybody. 我们会依客户需求量身定做课程， 并非单一课程一体适用。”

help us out. We just need to open the bottle – it’s as simple as that – and let the wine do the rest, because we are definitely very confident about what’s in the bottle.”

But, he adds, “I think what is nearly equally important is what’s behind the wine.

Who is making the wine and the domaine and the philosophy of the viticulture and the story behind the wine. That’s why with every single wine we are select, we go to every domaine. We go there, taste there, meet the people, meet the winemaker, meet the owner, and get a really deep understanding of who is making the wine and what the story behind it is. To us, that is crucial.”

Many clients, he says, are eager to go beyond the big names to attain a higher level of wine literacy. To that end, education is a big part of Sarment’s approach.

“We tailor-make our programs for each kind of customer. We can’t do just one kind of course for everybody. We need to target a range of people. Beginners, people who know something but want to know more, and then the connoisseur.”

Where does he start with beginning drinkers?

“Geography. That is definitely the first step. If you say Burgundy, people don’t understand at all. If you just say it without a map, or anything to support what you are saying, they will be lost. That’s why we have maps everywhere.”

Once a student has a good idea of where they are, literally, on the map of world

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wine, explains Chevalier, that’s a great start.

Encouraging drinkers to trust their own palates is another key.

“Wine is very personal. I always use the example of my grandma and her quetsche tarts. When I was young, she had this kind of oven and when you went into the kitchen, it was amazing. But I’m the only one who knows this kind of aroma – it is very subjective. That’s why we try to describe the flavor spectrum of wine as broadly as possible, without too much detail. There’s no point.

Each person will have their own adjectives to describe the wine.”

Sarment invites winemakers to conduct tastings whenever possible. “We are showing and sharing wine,” says Chevalier. “We try to bring many winemakers in, to see who is behind the wine. So we try to get the winemakers across to Hong Kong and China, and that is a really, really good tool, to get the clients to come in and say ‘hi’ to us, and to get an understanding of what they are drinking.

And the best person to do that is the winemaker. Clients are very happy to shake the hand of the small producer from the northern or southern Rhône or wherever. It’s really something special.”

“They’re farmers. They are down to earth, very easygoing. Usually before they come over they say, ‘I don’t have a tie!’” But it’s not the tie that matters, says Chevalier. “Wine is for pleasure. It’s a serious matter, yes, but it’s for pleasure. No need to be too formal about that.”

不过，谢瓦利耶指出 ： 「我认为，葡萄 酒的来历也很重要，包括酿制的酒厂、产区、 种植葡萄的理念以及葡萄酒的小故事。所以， 为了挑选出一款好酒，我们都会亲自去产区， 仔细品尝，与当地人、酿酒师和酒庄主人碰 面，才能充分了解每款酒背后的人事物。对 我们来说，这个过程至关重要。 」 他表示，许多客户亟欲摆脱大品牌的 迷思，希望进一步培养葡萄酒素养。为了 达成此项目标，Sarment 的主要策略就是 开设教育课程。 「我们会依客户需求量身定做课程，并

DAVID HARTUNG

非单一课程一体适用。我们得锁定不同的 族群，包括想更了解葡萄酒的初学者，以 及葡萄酒行家。」 谢瓦利耶都先向初学者传授哪些知识 呢？「地理位置绝对是第一课。如果你只 说勃艮第，学生想必听不懂。没有地图之 类的工具辅助，他们会一头雾水。所以我 们公司里到处都可见到地图。」 谢瓦利耶表示，学生看了全球葡萄酒 分布的地图后，认识自己身在何处，就算 是好的开始。另一项关键，则是鼓励他们 在品酒时要相信自己的味蕾。

「葡萄酒是个人的感受。我老爱拿我祖 母和她的紫李塔当作例子。在我小时候， 她有个烤箱，每次进厨房就会闻到她烤东 西的香味四溢。但这味道只有我知道，可 说是非常主观。所以，我们在形容葡萄酒 味道变化的时候，尽可能概略地描述，不 要着墨太多细节，没有这个必要。每个人 都会用自己方式来形容美酒。」 Sarment 向 来 广 邀 酒 厂 举 行 品 酒 会。 谢瓦利耶提到 ： 「我们既展示葡萄酒，也分 享葡萄酒。我们尝试邀请各酒厂齐聚一堂， 认识每款酒背后的功臣。因此，我们会请

酒厂来到香港和中国大陆，这样可以促成 良好的互动，客户不但可以向我们打招呼， 也可以更了解自己所喝的酒款。而酒厂代 表就是介绍自家酒款的不二人选。客户都 很乐意认识隆河南北一带的小酒厂，这是 很新鲜的体验。」 「酒厂代表都是种葡萄的农家，做人务 实又随和。他们来品酒会前常说『我连领 带都没有耶！』」但谢瓦利耶表示，领带并 不是重点 ： 「葡萄酒是拿来享受的，固然不 可当作儿戏，但别忘了享受才是目的，不 需要太过拘泥形式。」 appetite for art

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feature

澳葡萄酒进军中国

export advice from down under

RED DOG STUDIO (2)

In Hong Kong to help introduce Hardys Wines of Australia’s new luxury label, Heritage Reserve Bin, wine authority James Halliday spoke with Lucy Morgan at Wooloomooloo Steakhouse about exporting Australian wine to China.

James Halliday

ACCLAIMED WINE WRITER, critic and expert James Halliday understands the challenges of new wine markets. Australia is the fourth largest exporter of wine in the world. Britain is its keenest customer but there is a new player on the block, a country with a growing thirst for fine wine: China.

“At the moment China is by far the largest export destination for wines costing ten dollars and above and we are still showing strong growth year on year,” says Halliday. But the wine travelling to China from Australia is nearly all the same color.

“Australian exports to China are ninety percent red, ten percent white.”

Halliday is convinced that Chinese tastes will eventually move away from the Cabernet Sauvignons and Shirazes that are so popular at the moment, but which he feels are too aggressive to pair happily with lighter Chinese cuisine. He is sure that with time whites and sparkling wines will come into their own.

“I would suggest to anyone exporting wine to China that they focus on three things. The first is education. The second is education.

The third is education. Obviously there are limits on how much education one winery can deliver. But when you add up what the wine companies and what the importers are saying there is still a long way to go before middle China has an intuitive understanding of white wine and food. So it is worth investing time in educating the consumers.”

James Halliday 是享誉国际的葡萄酒作家、 酒评与专家，对新葡萄酒市场的挑战了若 指掌。澳大利亚是世界第四大葡萄酒出口 国，以英国为主要客户，但最近有个国家 对高级葡萄酒也「求之若渴」，成为新主顾， 那就是中国。 Halliday 提到 ： 「以十元澳币以上的葡 萄酒来说，目前中国是最大的出口国，而 且每年需求量都有惊人的增长。」然而澳 大利亚出口到中国的酒几乎都是同一种－ 红酒。「澳大利亚出口到中国的葡萄酒中， 红酒占 90%，白酒占 10%。」 Halliday 相信中国人的口味最终会改变， 目前最受欢迎的是卡本内苏维翁以及希拉 appetite for art

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兹红酒，但 Halliday 认为这两种酒的味道 较强烈，并不适合搭配清淡的中国料理， 而白酒和气泡酒最终会赢得应有的重视。 「若想将葡萄酒进口到中国，我建议着 重三件事，那就是教育、教育，再教育。 很显然的，一家酒厂能提供的教育有限， 不过结合各酒厂和进口商，就能教育中国 中产阶级，让他们自然了解白葡萄酒和食 物搭配，这方面还有很长的路要走。所以， 投资时间教育消费者很值得。」 Halliday 坚信，顾客会对葡萄酒产地感 到好奇，进而了解葡萄、产区和葡萄园， 这也是享受葡萄酒的一部分。他说 ： 「与啤 酒和烈酒不同，每瓶葡萄酒都有来历。」澳 大利亚酒厂察觉到消费者对自家葡萄酒背

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后的故事很感兴趣，于是在网路上提供更 多讯息，让消费者查阅。 不过，比起坐在电脑前上网浏览，许多 中国葡萄酒爱好者更希望眼见为凭，亲临 产地进一步了解葡萄酒。过去五年来，中 国前往澳大利亚的游客人数大幅上升，参 观酒窖行程大受欢迎，旅客可以参观葡萄 园，并在酒庄里品酒。 Halliday 认为，参观酒窖能让顾客更亲 近澳大利亚葡萄酒，可望改变中国的饮酒 消费习惯。多接触鲜为人知的葡萄品种， 有助于消费者理解为什么这些酒适合搭配 所吃的食物。 Halliday 认为以后在消费者 选择时，会更注重酒本身的风味，而不是 仅依赖过去偏好名酒的消费习惯。「希望

有一天，中国消费者能了解红酒不是只有 希拉兹或卡本内苏维翁，黑皮诺其实更适 合中国料理。我也希望雷司令能更受青睐， 这是相当好的葡萄品种。」 Halliday 向来注重葡萄酒消费趋势，在 访谈中阐明了葡萄酒市场在过去六十年间 的发展历程。「比起餐酒，过去澳大利亚 生产与消费的加烈葡萄酒较多。1960 年生 产的葡萄酒中，百分之九十以上是加烈酒， 但现在只剩百分之二。当时从德国引进压 力发酵槽，可严格控制温度，彻底改变了 酿酒的型式。」有了压力发酵槽，澳大利 亚克服了早期在炎热气候下酿餐酒的许多 挑战。 供应酿酒葡萄的知名产区，多位于温暖

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“ I would suggest to anyone exporting wine to China that they focus on three things. The first is education. The second is education. The third is education.

RED DOG STUDIO

若想将葡萄酒进口到中国，我建议着重三件事， 那就是教育、教育，再教育。”

气候区域，强烈的阳光让葡萄成熟，产生 多种丰富且浓郁的风味。在澳大利亚，许 多在 1980 与 1990 年代酿造的餐酒会被称 为「水果炸弹」，譬如果味浓厚的夏多内， 以及甜腻、喝了口唇都会染色的希拉兹。 但在过去几年，国内外消费者对葡萄酒的 偏好发生改变，更偏好内敛优雅的香气。 新的酿酒区建在澳大利亚南部和塔斯马尼 亚等较寒冷的地方，酿造的酒多半风味幽 雅细致，大受好评。 目前澳大利亚变为「单一葡萄园」和 「单一葡萄田区块」酿造葡萄酒模式。 Halliday 说 ： 「这是澳大利亚的一大趋势。未 来海外消费者听闻这种特别的酒，也将会 追随品尝。」

Halliday is a firm believer that people are intrigued by the provenance of wines and that knowing the story of a grape and a region and a vineyard is part of the process of enjoying a glass of wine. “Every bottle of wine has a history,” he says, “whereas beer and spirits do not.” Australian vineyards have responded to this interest in the back story of their wines by expanding the amount of information available online for consumers to absorb.

Many Chinese wine buffs are eager to travel further than their computer monitors to learn more about wine. Tourism to Australia from the PRC has increased dramatically over the last five years and cellar door visits are very popular with Chinese tourists who want to see the vineyards and try wine on the premises.

Halliday believes that this close contact with the wines of Australia will drive a change in Chinese wine buying habits.

Greater exposure to lesser known grape varietals will help consumers to see how these wines might provide good counterpoint to the food they eat. He thinks the choices customers make will become more driven by the flavor of the wines themselves rather than by leftover loyalty to famous brands and grapes. “Hopefully you will see a realization in China that red wine doesn’t have to be made with just Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, that Pinot Noir is really suited to Chinese cuisine. And I’d like to see a growing appreciation for Riesling, which is a fantastic grape variety.”

A keen follower of trends in wine

consumption, Halliday explains how the wine market in its broadest sense has evolved over the last sixty years. “Australia used to produce and consume more fortified wines than table wines,” he says. “In 1960 over ninety percent of wine produced was fortified. Now it is only two percent.

The appearance in the 1960s of pressure fermentation tanks from Germany – allowing strictly controlled temperatures – completely changed the face of winemaking.” These machines removed a lot of the challenges early table winemakers in Australia faced while working in a hot climate.

The established regions where many of the grapes for table wines are grown tend to have warmer weather. A hot sun ripens the fruit and generates rich, powerful flavors. Many of the Australian table wines produced in the 80s and 90s were known as “fruit bombs”: loud, buttery Chardonnays and jammy, lipblackening Shirazes. In the last few years the tastes of consumers at home and abroad have moved in the direction of wines with more restrained and elegant aromas. New winemaking regions have opened up in the cooler southern reaches of Australia and Tasmania, where the wines tend to be subtle and delicate in flavor. Wines from these areas are rocketing upwards in popularity.

Current Australian trends show a move towards single vineyard and single block wines. “This is a big trend in Australia now,” says Halliday. “It will have a trickle-down effect, as overseas consumers hear about these different wines we are making.” appetite for art

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hong kong nocturnes

当西方歌剧邂逅东方典范

opera meets east At a recent KEE Supper Club, an East-West feast was followed by a performance by Italian tenor Elia Astorino with accompaniment by piano, dizi and pipa.

LINES FORM OUTSIDE the regular haunts. Hit like being welcomed into the private home tunes blare from the bars, bleeding together of a seasoned art collector who specializes with piecemeal conversations. in the art of living well.

The sidewalks become spectacles On this occasion, the main BY of activity. It’s another raucous salon has been transformed into CHRISTINA YUEN Saturday night in Lan Kwai Fong. the stage for the club’s monthly ZI CHUNG Walk through the doors of spectacle event: the KEE Supper the KEE Club and you enter Club. The Supper Club is an old PHOTOGRAPHY BY into a different world. Visitors idea made new by KEE Relations DAVID HARTUNG are greeted by the lush red walls Director Marc-David Nathan, a of the main salon, decorated Belgian-born world traveler who with artifacts from ancient China, furniture has been at the helm of KEE since 2006. He from bygone colonial Hong Kong and instalsaw the absence of this form of entertainlations from contemporary art masters. It’s ment in Hong Kong – dinners accompanied

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巷弄里，热门名店门口又是大排长龙，酒 吧里传来震天响的流行乐，混杂此起彼落 的聊天声，你若伫立在人行道上，可将整 条巷弄的熙嚷繁杂尽收眼底，这里，便是 周六夜晚喧闹的兰桂坊。 踏进 KEE Club 的大门，仿佛置身另 一个世界。主厅映入眼帘的是漆成明艳朱 红色的墙壁，墙上饰有古中国文物，厅内 摆设香港殖民时期的家具，还有许多出自 大师手笔的当代艺术作品，笔者仿佛受邀 造访某个深谙生活艺术的资深收藏家住处。 被改造成舞台的主厅里，即将进行俱 乐部每月一次的活动 ：KEE Supper Club 。 这 由 KEE 的 公 关 总 监 Marc-david Nathan 策划推出，虽非创举，但融入了许多新创意， Nathan 来 自 比 利 时， 遍 走 各 国， 自 2006 年起领军 KEE 的团队。他发现，晚宴表演 秀这种夜生活娱乐在伦敦、纽约等城市司 空见惯，在香港却少之又少，因此希望能 趁此机会好好发挥。 Nathan 表示 ： 「这不只是一场晚宴或 表演，而是一种顾客体验。」 APPETITE FOR ART | TK |

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by shows are nightlife staples in cities like London and New York – as an opportunity for KEE to put its own unique spin on things.

“It’s not a dinner, and it’s not a show,” says Marc-David. “We wanted to create an experience.”

The KEE Supper Club started off in September 2013 with “Les Misérables” as the theme for the evening. After a fourcourse dinner served with complimentary Dom Pérignon Champagne, Ivan Rutherford, who played Jean Valjean on Broadway to great acclaim, arrived in person to deliver the show-stopping tunes.

From there, the Supper Club has developed a sense of cultural adventurousness that threads through the elements of food, drink, and performance. The Club’s themes

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often boast experimental flair. One month featured world-class jazz by Dutch saxophonist Yuri Honing. Another brought classical-pop crossover music from a Thai string trio.

This evening, the theme is “Opera Meets East”: the rich musical traditions of Italy and Asia will join sounds through the musical collaboration of opera tenor Elia Astorino, classical pianist Akane Kubota, dizi musician Wu Yun Kan, and pipa player Wong Yui Kiu. The experimental quartet is led by the 24-year-old Astorino, who moved from Como, Italy to Hong Kong in 2005 after falling for the city’s charms during a high school exchange experience.

What inspired Astorina to want to sing opera accompanied by Chinese instruments?

It wasn’t music, he says, but the experience of contemplating a painting in Italy: “I was looking at this beautiful Baroque painting showing an everyday scene, set in Venice or somewhere in Holland. I looked at the corner of the painting and saw people who were dressed differently, carrying big bags of spices. I then did something that I’ve always tried to tell myself to do when I look at a painting, which is to imagine its sounds and perfumes – the atmosphere. I began to ask myself: ‘Who said that this Western, Baroque-style painting should only be accompanied by Western, Baroque music?’ And then I imagined how beautiful it would be if it was accompanied by Asian music instead.”

Pursuing the idea, Astorino sought out collaborators interested in hearing what

2013 年九月的首场 KEE Supper Club 以《悲惨世界》为主题。四道佳肴的晚餐 后，服务人员奉上顶级 Dom Pérignon 香槟， 让贵宾品酒之余，还能观赏知名舞台剧演 员 Ivan Rutherford 的表演，他曾在百老汇 担纲《悲惨世界》的主角尚万强，大受好评， 当晚亲临演出，观众掌声震耳欲聋，久久 不息。 此 后，KEE Supper Club 便 成 为 结 合 美食、美酒与表演的文化探险体验，主题 通常充满实验性。如邀请荷兰萨克斯风手 Yuri Honing，请观众聆听世界级的爵士乐 演奏，还有延请泰国弦乐三重奏乐团，演 绎古典流行乐。 而这次主题为 ： 「当歌剧遇上东方」， 在 意 大 利 男 高 音 Elia Astorino、 古 典 钢 琴 家 Akane Kubota、笛子乐手胡润勤、琵琶 演奏家黄璿侨联手合作下，成功揉合意大

利与亚洲渊远流长的音乐传统。这个实验 性质浓厚的四重奏由 24 岁的 Elia Astorino 所带领，他高中时期到香港当交换学生时， 就深深折服于这个城市的魅力，2005 年便 决定从意大利科莫镇移居到香港。 结合意大利歌剧与中国乐器的灵感从 何而来呢？ Elia Astorino 说其实跟音乐无关， 而是来自在意大利时驻足于一幅画前思索 的经验。 他表示 ： 「当时我正欣赏一幅巴洛 克风格的景色画，地点许是威尼斯或荷兰某 处，我发现画中角落出现一群衣着特别的 人，身上背着装满香料的袋子，我开始想 象场景的氛围， 包括声音和气味。我问自己： 『谁说西方的巴洛克绘画只能搭配西方的巴 洛克音乐？』接着我又想，如果这幅画能 跟中国音乐结合，不知道有多美妙！」 为了将想法付诸实行，Elia Astorino 开 始寻找对「当歌剧遇上东方」这个点子有

兴 趣 的 音 乐 伙 伴， 而 今 晚 的 Supper Club 便吸引许多对新组合颇有兴致的贵宾。正 当音乐家为初次登台的特别演出作准备时， 身穿订制合身西服与典雅礼服的时髦宾客 也纷纷入场，在烛光摇曳的餐桌前就座， 愉悦的交谈声来回穿梭在人群与智能手机 间，气氛融洽迷人。 享用完中西合璧的美味料理，空气中 开始弥漫醇厚的意大利咖啡香，咖啡区由 illy 的专业咖啡训练师 Nicola Scognamiglio 负责，他来自意大利那不勒斯，在当地经 营咖啡馆。一聊起煮咖啡的技巧还有咖啡 文化，Scognamiglio 话匣子大开 ： 「对我们 来说，咖啡代表跟人相处的时刻 — 甚至可 以跟素未谋生的陌生人喝咖啡。在那不勒 斯的咖啡店，咖啡师就像朋友，如果你喝 咖啡时无事可做，就会跟咖啡师聊天，他 们会认得每位上门的顾客。」 appetite for art

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“Opera Meets East” might sound like.

Tonight, the Supper Club has attracted guests who are also curious to hear the new sound. As the musicians prepare for the debut of their special performance, dapper men in tailored suits and women in elegant dresses take their places at the candle-lit tables. Lively conversations prevail over smart phones, and as guests contribute energy and personality to the Supper Club, the mood feels charmed.

After a delicious East-West feast is served and savored, the heady aroma of Italian coffee fills the air. The coffee station is expertly tended by Nicola Scognamiglio, an illy Barista Trainer who comes from Naples, Italy, where he owned and operated his own café. Scognamiglio delights in talking coffee technique and culture: “For us, coffee is a moment of being together – and it could be with someone that you just met on the street.

In Naples, when you go to a coffee shop, the barista is a friend. If you go to the coffee shop and you have nothing to do, you talk to the baristas, and the baristas recognize each and every customer.”

Clearly subscribing to a similar philosophy, Marc-David glides attentively through the room, a maestro-host greeting old friends and making new guests feel comfortable.

And then he calls for attention and introduces the ensemble.

A hush falls over the crowd as the musicians take the stage. Astorino invites the audience to listen closely for both the familiar and the new. After a moment of silent anticipation, Wong Yui Kiu begins to strum the strings of her pipa, coaxing out a rolling, inviting rhythm. Wu Yun Kan joins next, blowing notes of sweet purity from the dizi.

There’s a moment of teasing uncertainty as the notes coalesce and then the puzzle resolves as Mr. Astorino launches into the first irresistible phrases of “O Sole Mio.” For the rest of the evening, Astorino and his novel band serve up rich offerings of opera, including the haunting “Nessun Dorma” from Turandot, a spirited Neapolitan tune titled “Mattinata,” and an

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Wagyu Beef Tenderloin and Beef Cheek with Potato Mousseline 和牛里脊肉和牛面颊配土豆泥

operatic arrangement of a modern-day classic, “Unchained Melody.” Elia’s powerful tenor vocals alternately soar to fill the intimate space, and then retreat to blend harmoniously with the piano and the Eastern sounds of the dizi and pipa.

Familiar songs are made to sound enchantingly new and the cultural experiment is visibly effective. After Elia’s final note tapers to silence, great applause erupts, followed by the din of enthusiastic chatter as

guests discuss the evening they have shared.

After it is all over, guests linger in small groups, resisting the call of other attractions on Hong Kong’s nightscape, savoring the enchanted atmosphere of the Supper Club.

For the next KEE Supper Club, on 27 June, international talent Maria Elena Infantino will arrive from Los Angeles to sing and dance around the theme of “Mediterraneo.” info@keeclub.com

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Marc-David Nathan 跟那不勒斯咖啡 师 的 想 法 不 谋 而 合， 今 晚 他 在 厅 内 来 回 穿 梭， 与 老 友 寒 暄、 与 新 朋 相 见 欢， 让 旧雨新知都倍感亲切。接着，Nathan 便 向 宾 客 宣 布 演 奏 即 将 开 始， 并 介 绍 乐 团 成员。 音乐家出场时，厅内鸦雀无声，Elia Astorino 邀请观众注意聆听音乐中熟悉与 陌生的元素。静待片刻后，黄 璿 侨拨动琵 琶琴弦，指间流泄出动人的旋律，胡润勤 则吹奏笛子，笛声优美而纯净，配合优雅

的钢琴音，三种乐器齐声奏鸣，产生一种 带戏谑效果的不确定感，直到 Elia Astorino 引吭唱出一句美妙的 O Sole Mio，才化解 原先乐音予人的疑惑感。 当晚 Elia Astorino 与这个新组的乐团 还表演了多首脍炙人口的歌剧曲目，包含 《杜兰朵公主》（Turandot）中的男角咏叹 调《公主彻夜未眠》（Nessun dorma）、活 泼的意大利乐曲《晨歌》（Mattinata），以 及歌剧版的现代音乐经典《奔放的旋律》（ Unchained Melody）。 Elia Astorino 饱 满 有

力的嗓音，时而高亢无比，回绕在厅内， 时而低回流连，与西方的钢琴、东方的笛 子与琵琶乐声巧妙融合。 乐团以新方法诠释耳熟能详的曲目， 带来一场冲击力十足的文化实验。谢幕前 Elia Astorino 演唱完最后一句，全场陷入短 暂的静默，旋即报以如雷贯耳的掌声，宾 客热烈讨论着今晚的活动。结束后，众人 还聚集在厅内徘徊，没心思参与其他娱乐 活动，只想好好回味在 KEE Supper Club 度过的这美好一夜。 appetite for art

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Maxime Dautresme

branding by maxime

电车餐厅设计美学

street car: a story of design Maxime Dautresme is the executive creative director of Substance, a multi-disciplinary branding and design company. An itinerant childhood in Brazil and Korea, Japan, France and the USA helped him develop a keen eye for beauty and culture. A love of research and historical style has given him a deep respect for the past. Dautresme spoke with Lucy Morgan about the creative process of designing Bibo, the new street-art gallery and restaurant.

§ Maxime Dautresme目前担任跨领域品牌营造

暨设计公司Substance的创意总监。他童年时期曾在多国度过，包括巴西、南韩、日本、法国与美国，因而培养出对 美学与文化的敏锐度。乐于探索的性格与独特的复古风格，也让他对历史有着深深的景仰。 Dautresme特别接受Lucy Morgan的访问，谈谈设计Bibo这座街头艺术风格的艺廊兼餐厅时的创意发想过程。

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

What is the first thing you consider when designing a restaurant?

It’s all about the cuisine. You listen to the chef, you learn about his inspiration, and you notice how he prepares his food. This then has to be translated visually, without being too obvious, so that when people walk in to the space they are intrigued by what the food will be like. You give them cues. I like the menu to be mysterious, to hint at the dishes without giving too much away. And the space has to support the cuisine, to make sense of it.

What were the main considerations when designing Bibo?

The client is a connoisseur and extensive collector of street art who wanted to create an exciting space to launch a collaborative project: a restaurant where street artists could come in and tag the space with their work. The food served would be created by a French chef who has worked in three Michelin-starred establishments. The challenge was to find a link between the street art, a very modern discipline, and French gastronomy, a very classical one. That link had to be created by the space.

你在设计餐厅时，首先会想到什么事情？ 餐厅首重料理，必须听从主厨的指示， 了解每道菜的灵感从何而来，以及观察主 厨备料的过程。这些都得以视觉呈现，却 又不能太过明目张胆，需让客人走进餐厅 时，就对供应的食物产生好奇。另外，还 要给客人一些线索。我喜欢把菜单设计得 具有神秘感，稍微透露餐点的样貌，却又 不提供过多资讯。餐厅的空间得烘托料理， 使每道菜的出现都合乎情理。 你在设计 Bibo 时，主要的考量有哪些？ 因为客户本身有极高的品味，又是街 头艺术品的收藏家，他希望营造出令人耳 目一新的空间，来推动一项合作计画，就 是欢迎街头艺术家前来餐厅，用自己的作 品来妆点餐厅空间。料理则由一位法国主 厨负责，他曾经待过米其林三星的餐厅。 而设计的难题在于如何结合街头艺术与法 式料理，前者的现代风格强烈，后者则走 古典路线，两者的结合就得仰赖空间。 那你怎么解决这项难题呢？可否与我们分 享一下？ 其实就是当成数学习题，有点像整理 图表 ；我们先决定要参考的风格，还得知 道有哪些不确定因素。以这个设计案来说， 我们有街头艺术、法式料理与空间，接下

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branding by maxime

Once you have the outline, what’s the next step?

So, I have the 1930s backdrop – what am I going to do with this? I need to link it to the name and build my story. We often create fictional characters or elements that become timeless or personal – in this instance, we created Bibo, a metaphor for

both the chef and the owner. Bibo is a squatter who takes over this space. What is this Art Deco space? How about if it were a tram trading company? Street art started in the subway, and street artists still spray on trains and trams and moving objects so their message can move across spaces and be seen by more people. We invented a tramway company with a classic corporate French name.

Then everything falls into place. The space is opulent enough to support the glamorous food. But its former role as a transport hub suits the artists and makes sense for them to feel able to work in the space. This was the best way for those two worlds to come together.

Tell us the story of the tram company.

In the 1930s this was the regional office for the prosperous Compagnie Générale Française de Tramways (CGFT), specializing in developing, maintaining and running tramways with expertise from Europe and especially France. Decades passed. The building with its beautiful thirties decor was abandoned. A few treasures of the past linger. Financial ledgers, ticket rolls and classic furnishings remain from the golden 1930s.

How does that story translate physically into the restaurant space?

Brass ceiling pipes emulate subway ventilation conduits and network systems. Light fixtures are reminiscent of train signals. The space becomes opulent as you come through the door. You walk onto marble floors, passing a brass cabinet like a food cart on a train.

Artworks hang on the walls. Everything has a softness: the windows and doors, the banquettes and the chairs – all have soft edges reminiscent of mechanical engineering. This is an homage to engineering know-how of the thirties, that way of building. Then there are other touches, ways that further connect the food to the street art. Street art is about layering – artists spray their works onto heritage buildings. To mirror the artists’ layering technique, we type menu items onto paper already printed with timetables and ledgers, leftover documents from the French tram company. The Bibo business cards are in the style of tram tickets – objects which have a value that are being reused for a different purpose. These elements help the street artists to feel at home when they come to work in the restaurant. They feel comfortable in an environment with a history, where objects are being reused.

What is it like, being a designer? How do you feel as you work on a project?

Working with space and being a designer is a struggle. It is a violent process in your head – you get anxious and excited about where your ideas are going. When you design a restaurant or a hotel, you are creating a set-up for people to enjoy themselves, a place which will create memories. Making that shell is probably the most pleasurable process in interior design. You often do what architects lose – You make the space communicate. You give people things they can walk away with, like the business card and the coaster. I have always admired design with a sense of humor, and a project like Bibo is about creating an atmosphere and a stage. I see a space. I feel a space. I can almost smell it.

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Talk us through how you solve this sort of challenge.

It’s actually rather mathematical, a little like putting a chart together. We know what our style references are, and we know what the unknowns in the equations are. In this case we have street art and French gastronomy and the space as a volume – we try to see how these three things can work together and what can make them work together. The idea to make the space have an Art Deco theme came to me. It’s design, but still minimal in its approach. It isn’t heavy. The 1930s is a period modern enough to serve as a backdrop to constantly changing and extremely eclectic artistic expression. So Art Deco for me was the perfect canvas upon which the street artists could express themselves. And it is an elegant and comfortable environment for French gastronomy to be served.

A photographic installation by artist JR watches over customers from behind the bar at Bibo. 在Bibo 吧台后是艺术家JR的作品，彷佛时刻与食客交流着。

来就要观察三者的交互作用，并尝试用不 同元素将三者完美结合。我后来灵机一动， 觉得可以用装饰艺术的主题，既属于设计 范畴，又带有极简色彩，不会过于强烈。 而 1930 年代的现代风味，正好足以衬托日 新月异、风格不一的艺术表现。因此，对 我来说，装饰艺术俨然是块完美的画布， 提供给街头艺术家挥洒自己才华的机会， 而如此优雅又舒适的环境，很适合供应法 式美食。

你选定主题后，下一阶段的任务为何？ 有了 1930 年代当作背景，接下来就需 要将它与品牌名称结合，发想背后的故事。 我们虚构出来的角色或元素，日后常成为 时代经典、能唤起个人经验。以这个设计 案来说，我们创造了 Bibo，用来比喻主厨 和老板，Bibo 可说占据了整个空间。我们 想要什么样的装饰艺术空间呢？电车公司 是不错的选择，街头艺术源于地铁，而街 头艺术家仍会在火车、电车等会移动的交 通工具涂鸭，让讯息移动到不同空间，传 递给更多人知道。我们创造了一家电车公 司，取了个古典的法文名字。餐厅的空间

宽敞豪气，足以与高级食物匹配，但同时 又拥有过往交通枢纽的荣光，符合艺术家 的胃口，他们便能自在地在此工作。这是 让两个世界结合的最佳方式。

可以介绍一下电车公司的故事吗？ 1930 年代，这里原本是「法国电车总 公司」 （CGFT）的地区办公室，运用欧洲， 尤其是法国的顶尖专业技术，专门开发、维 护、经营路面电车。数十年后，原本的建筑 及 30 年代华美的装潢被弃置不用，仅留下 部分历史瑰宝，像是收支帐册、车票卷和古 典饰品等，供人们缅怀那段黄金岁月。 如何将这段故事具体呈现于餐厅空间呢？ 天花板的黄铜水管是模仿地铁通风管 道和网络系统，灯具则是象征信号。你一 进门，空间便活络起来，脚踩大理石地板， 身旁的黄铜厨柜有如餐车，墙上挂着各式 艺术品。所有东西都带有柔和感，无论是 门窗或桌椅，都有许多柔和的设计细节， 让人回想起过去的机械工程，借此显现出 30 年代的工程技术与建筑风格。其他巧思 则进一步结合了食物与街头艺术。街头艺

术的重点在于表现层次，艺术家要在古迹 上呈现作品 ；为了反映这项技巧，我们就 用电车公司遗留下来的文件来印制菜单， 例如时刻表与帐本，所有餐点品项都​​列 在 上面。 Bibo 的名片则是车票的样式，过去 的有价物品再次利用，便能达成不同的目 的。有了这些元素，街头艺术家来餐厅工 作时，便会感到相当自在，安然处于带有 历史气息的空间之中，所有物品都可再次 运用。

当设计师是什么感觉？可以分享你的工作 心得吗？ 身为设计师，空间设计就是一场硬仗， 你会在脑中不断挣扎，灵感到处乱窜，很 容易就感到焦虑或兴奋。设计餐厅或旅馆 时，营造的空间得让人享受其中，进而创 造回忆。室内设计最令人满足的地方，就 是打造空间的过程。设计师要让空间能与 人产生互动。此外，还要送客人一些小东西， 像是名片或杯垫。我向来欣赏有幽默感的 设计，而 Bibo 这类的设计案就需要打造特 定的氛围与舞台。空间对我来说不只是视 觉，更是一种感受，甚至能影响嗅觉。 appetite for art

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digestif presented by johnnie walker

团队之魂

team spirit Meeting the great physical and creative challenges of restaurant work leads to the equally great satisfactions of battletested camaraderie and of bringing happiness to others. The crew at Bibo savors those satisfactions after work with a glass of Johnnie Walker Blue Label.

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Mutaro Balde, Arturo Sims and Alexandre ChattĂŠ

digestif presented by johnnie walker

HIDDEN AMONGST A ROW OF GALLERIES AND ANTIQUE SHOPS ON HOLLYWOOD ROAD IS A DISCREET blue building with an imposing metal door.

An art deco emblem hints at the space’s ingeniously imagined heritage as the former headquarters of a 1930s tramway company.

The door slides open, revealing a stone staircase leading down to a large basement filled with precious artworks. Music pulses and waiters move purposefully into an opulent dining room featuring spray-painted walls, eye-catching sculptures, collages and mosaics. Bibo is a new space where people get together to enjoy the art forms of French gastronomy and imaginative, perfectly executed drinks.

Service is over. Bibo Executive Chef Mutaro Balde emerges from his quietly efficient kitchen into the lively restaurant and bar area. Diners are lingering over digestifs, taking in the atmosphere and reflecting on their evenings. Balde stops and chats with a group at a table. Gradually the guests leave, energized and happy, and the room quiets. Balde takes a seat on an elegant sofa, placed in front of a case full of white-covered paperback books. These books have been spray painted with a stylized image of Audrey Hepburn’s perfectly symmetrical face.

A smart-looking man in a three-piece suit joins Balde on the sofa. He is Bibo Restaurant Manager Arturo Sims. Soon a third man appears, Bibo Chief Mixologist Alexandre Chatté, fresh from a long evening working hard behind the bar. He is bringing the whisky for an after-work digestif in a beautiful teal-colored glass bottle with a midnight-blue label. He pours the dusky amber liquid into two tumblers, adds ice and passes one of the glasses to Sims.

Small plates bearing hemispheres of dark chocolate and a large platter of cured meats sit on a sofa table. Chatté takes a seat in a comfortable armchair next to a life-sized gleaming metal sculpture of a pit bull terrier and takes a sip of his Blue Label.

Balde: Working in the kitchen and

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working in the front of house – there is such a different ambience.

Sims: At the front of house, you have to be very sensitive to every client and be aware of everything that is going on. I come from a kitchen background, so for me going to the kitchen and seeing how everyone is working very, very quietly, how everyone is super focused and the chef is saying, ‘Let’s go!’ – that brings back so many memories.

Balde: I love to come out into the restaurant and see the customers, to see that they are happy and having a good time. It’s rewarding, after a long day, to see the people and feel the atmosphere.

Chatté: It’s just great giving this experience to guests. It’s what we do this for. And then, after a long day’s work the best thing is to be able to relax, to sit and enjoy our own version of Bibo.

Sims: I agree – it’s really great to serve all our guests and to see them enjoy themselves and then at the end of the night we sit down and we kind of experience the same thing they do, with a nice glass of something special. I like to finish a really good meal with a really good drink, with something interesting. That’s the best thing.

Chatté: We get the place to ourselves.

Everybody has gone home. Enjoy what you have in your hand and enjoy the moment.

Balde: After work is all about relaxation.

Sims: Because work is about passion – passion about the food, the drink and the service. Starting a menu like this – this is a passion project. It has made us a bonded team. We experience the ups and downs together.

Chatté: And that makes the ties a whole lot stronger.

Sims: After all the experience I’ve had in this industry, I think I’ve found my better thirds. It is really cool for me to find people who love the kitchen and the bar as much as I do.

Balde: Ultimately we are doing the same

thing inside the kitchen and outside. We have to know what you are doing, and you need to know what we are doing.

Chatté: We all get to learn from each other.

Sims: It is impossible to make people feel special if you don’t feel passionate about what you do. Excellence is about what you feel and what you want to give.

A person who doesn’t feel this, they cannot do it. Alex, if you didn’t feel passionate about what you do, or Mutaro, if you didn’t have a passion for cooking – you would not be able to do it.

Balde: It’s inspiring to be surrounded by art. Cooking is art. Before they eat, most people will look at the plate, at the colors, the textures. You want to present something on a plate that is different, memorable.

Chatté: I welcome the challenge presented by being in a place with such amazing art. My approach is not focused on the artworks on the wall but on the whole concept itself. I try to put it all into a glass for the client to experience.

Sims: At the end of the day, the whole Bibo experience is like a performance. But on a stage everything is orchestrated, and there is no improvisation. What we do here is adapt the Bibo show to every single person. The performance is constantly evolving.

Chatté: You want everyone to have the best experience. And it will be different every time they come here. There are new things happening all the time, new artworks appearing, new menus appearing with the changing seasons.

Balde: And it keeps changing for us too.

We are in here six days a week, fourteen hours a day, and it’s still exciting for us.

Sims: Cheers.

Cast: Arturo Sims, Restaurant Manager Mutaro Balde, Executive Chef Alexandre Chatté, Chief Mixologist

“ I like to finish a really good meal with a really good drink, with something interesting. That’s the best thing. 吃了一顿好料理后，我喜欢用好酒收尾，最好是独特一点， 而这支酒绝对是不二之选。”

DAVID HARTUNG (3 + PREVIOUS PAGE )

ARTURO SIMS, BIBO RESTAURANT MANAGER

APPETITE FOR ART | TK |

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digestif presented by johnnie walker

一间低调的蓝色建筑藏身在香港荷里活道的许多艺廊和古董店中，壮观的金属大门上装饰的是电车的 标章，巧妙暗示这栋建筑的前身是 1930 年 代某家电车公司的总部。大门滑开后，映 入眼帘的是一排石阶，朝下通到摆满各式 珍贵艺术品的地下室，此时音乐稍停，侍 者全都聚集到一间宽敞的宴会厅，墙上充 满泼漆涂鸦，厅内有许多引人注目的雕像、 拼贴与马赛克作品。这里是 Bibo 餐厅，宾 客能在艺术氛围中享受法国美馔，品尝许 多完美无瑕的梦幻美酒。 接 近 打 烊 时 间， 行 政 总 厨 Mutaro Balde 从安静而高效率的厨房中移步到 人声鼎沸的用餐区和吧台，顾客还在 细细品尝餐后酒，在愉悦气氛中回味 美好的夜晚，Balde 停下脚步，跟某桌 的客人聊天。心满意足的顾客逐渐离 去，厅内慢慢沉寂下来，Balde 坐在典 雅的沙发上，后方书架上摆满白色封 面的平装书，以此作为画布喷上喷漆， 描绘出经典女星奥黛丽赫本完美对称 的脸庞。 一个外表精明干练的男人，身穿 三件式西装，走过来坐在 Balde 旁边， 这位是餐厅经理 Arturo Sims。过了不 久，第三个男人也现身，他是首席调 酒师 Alexandre Chatté，在吧台后辛勤 工作了一整晚，此时手里拿了一罐琥 珀色、贴着暗蓝色标签的玻璃瓶，想 在下班后享用这瓶威士忌。首先他将 瓶中深琥珀色液体徐徐倒入两个玻璃 杯中，加入冰块，接着把沁人心脾的 酒饮递给 Sims。茶几上的小碟子盛着 半圆形的黑巧克力，旁边还有一盘腌 肉，Chatté 坐在一张舒适的扶手椅上， 座椅旁边紧邻着的是一座实际尺寸的 比特斗牛金属雕像，Chatté 正慢条斯 礼的啜饮手中的威士忌。 Balde: 在厨房跟在店面工作真是 两个不同的世界！ Sims: 在店面工作，要眼观四面，耳听 八方，随时关注每个客人 。我以前也在厨 房待过，所以当我再走进厨房时，看到每 个人都不发一语，全神贯注在料理上，听 到大厨喊一声「上菜」，那一刻，从前的回 忆又印入了脑海。 Balde: 我喜欢到店里和顾客见面，看 到他们脸上满意的笑容、尽情享受用餐时 光，这是我辛劳工作了一天的回报。

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Chatté: 让顾客享有愉悦的用餐体验，

真的非常棒，这也是我们辛勤工作的目标， 工作一整天之后，最棒的就是能坐着放松 一下，慢慢回味今天的一切。 Sims: 我也这么觉得，服务顾客，看 他 们 用 餐 时 充 满 欢 笑， 我 就 心 满 意 足 了。打烊后，我们几个坐下来歇口气，喝 杯 小 酒， 就 像 是 在 感 受 顾 客 的 体 验。 吃 了 一 顿 好 料 理， 我 喜 欢 用 好 酒 收 尾， 最 好 是 特 别 一 点， 这 才 是 人 生 一 大 乐 事。​

“I welcome the challenge presented by being in a place with such amazing art. 在这里担任调酒 师确实是个考验， 但我乐于接受 . “ ALEXANDRE CHATTÉ, BIBO CHIEF MIXOLOGIST

​ Chatté: 大家都回家了，这个地方是我们的

了！尽情享用好酒，享受这一刻吧！ Balde: 对，下班就是要放松。 Sims: 因为工作就是需要热情－对于 食物、好酒和服务的热情。像这样一边聊 天一边开发菜单，是一项需要热情的工作。 我们在过程中甘苦与共，才可以使我们这 团队凝聚在一起。

Chatté: 而且彼此的关系更紧密。 Sims: 在餐饮业经历这么长的时间，现

在我终于找到志同道合的伙伴，真的，很 难找到另一个跟我一样这么热爱厨房和吧 台的人。 Balde: 其实不管是在厨房内外，我们 都在做同件事，店面得掌握厨房状况，厨 房也得很清楚店面动静才行。 Chatté: 同时我们也在互相学习。 Sims: 想带给顾客特殊的体验，自己 得先亲身体验过才可以。达到卓越的 关键在于你感受到什么？还有你想带 给别人怎样的感受？无法领会这一点， 就绝对办不到。如果 Alex 对调酒没有 热情，或者 Mutaro 你不喜欢料理的话， 你们绝对不可能表现得如此杰出。 Balde: 而且这间餐厅充满艺术气 息，能不断激发创意灵感。其实料理 就是一种艺术，大多数的客人在用餐 前，会先欣赏盘内料理的颜色搭配、 质感等等，你会希望呈现出与众不同、 令人难忘的效果。 Chatté: 这个艺术空间真是让人赞 叹不已，在这里担任调酒师确实是个 考验，但我乐于接受，也并不会只把 焦点放在墙壁的艺术品上，而是将整 体的美学概念融入调酒中，让客人细 细品味体验。 Sims: 其实，在 Bibo 体验就像是 一场表演，出现在舞台上的每个元素 都经过精心策划，绝不会互相干扰， 我们负责将这场 Bibo 秀以量身订做的 方式呈现给每一位客人，而且表演随 时求新求变。 Chatté: 你会希望让每个人都享有 最佳的用餐经验，而且每次体验都截 然不同，客人每回都会发现新的事物， 像是新的艺术品，还有随着季节更换 的新菜单。 Balde: 这也让我们不断变化，我们每 周在这工作六天，每天十四个小时，但依 然乐此不疲！ Sims: 干杯！ 团队 : 餐厅经理 — Arturo Sims 行政总厨 — Mutaro Balde 首席调酒师 — Alexandre Chatté

DAVID HARTUNG

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TK" WHERE TO FIND TK Tasting Kitchen is available at more than 100 newsstands and bookshops across the region, and at all of the following fine resorts, hotels and restaurants.

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TK | appetite for art

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WINE AND GOURMET SHOPS Vamorosso Fine Wines Ltd. Concord Fine Wines Limited Cottage Vineyards (International) Limited Delish Hong Kong Wine Vault Jiontek Fine Wines (Hong Kong) Limited - Admiralty, Wanchai, TST, Kwai Chung Limitless Holdings Limited Monsieur Chatté, Sheung Wan Monsieur Chatté, Elements Pan-Handler Portrait Winemakers & distillers Prime Cellar Wine Tasting Room Queensway Wine

Sino Vantage Asia Limited Valentino Chocolatier - Sai Kung Valentino Chocolatier Wanchai

HOTELS City Garden Hotel Conrad International Hong Kong Cosmopolitan Hotel Courtyard By Marriott Hong Kong Crowne Plaza HK CWB Hotel Eaton Hotel Hong Kong Eaton House Excelsior Hotel Grand Hyatt Hong Kong Harbour Grand Hong Kong Harbour Grand Kowloon Harbour Plaza North Point Holiday Inn Golden Mile Hong Kong Gold Coast Hotel Hong Kong Marriott Hotel Hotel Icon Hotel Jen Hotel LKF by Rhombus Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Tsim Sha Tsui InterContinental Grand Standford InterContinental Hong Kong Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong Kowloon Shangri-La Lan Kwai Fong Hotel Langham Place, Mongkok, HK Lanson Place Hotel Le Meridien Cyberport L'hotel Island South Luk Kwok Hotel Mandarin Oriental Peninsula Hong Kong Regal Airport Hotel Regal Hong Kong Hotel Regal Hotels International Regal Kowloon Hotel Renaissance Harbour View Hotel, Hong Kong Rosedale on the Park HK Royal Garden Hotel Royal Pacific Hotel & Towers Royal Plaza Hotel Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers SkyCity Marriott Hotel The Kowloon Hotel The Landmark Mandarin Oriental The Luxe Manor The Park Lane Hong Kong The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong

AIRLINE LOUNGES CNAC Lounge Dynasty Lounge Emirate Lounge Emirates Airlines-BKK Lounge Hong Kong Lounge Morning Calm ( Korean Air) Red Carpet Lounge (UA) Royal Orchid Lounge SQ Lounge (Silver Kris) The Traveller's Lounge EAST The Traveller's Lounge WEST

Virgin Clubhouse Hong Kong Jet Jet Aviation Buisness Jets Metrojet Limited BAA - Business Aviation Asia Ltd

VANGO Wanchai North Point Ho Man Tin Kwun Tong Lok Fu Shatin Tin Shui Wai Kwai Chung Chai Wan Kwun Tong TST Saigon Tuen Mun Happy Vally Lok Fu Tai Kok Tsui Tin Shui Wai Yuen Long Tai Po

BOOKSHOPS Mandarin Oriental Kiosk Bookazine (Discover Bay, Canton House, Ifc Mall, Harbor City, Kowloon, Prince Building, Central, Shui On) Dymocks (Peak, Ifc Mall, Lyndhurst Terrace, Harbor City, Kowloon, Bonham Road, Repulse Bay, Hopewell Centre, Citygate) Beachside Books Hits Media Center Kubrick Bookstore & Cafe Metrobook (Elements, Kowloon, Mikki, Langham Place) Nobletimes Jumbo Grade (City Plaza, Pacific Place, Admiralty, Wong Tai Sin) Swindon Book Co. Ltd. Cham Kee Tung Son Yung Kee Great Food Park N' Shop (Baguia Villa, Caine Road, Caribbean Coast, Citygate, Clearwater, Cyberport, East Point City, Forview Heights, Festival Walk, Happy Valley, Hong Lok Yuen, Horizon Suite Hotel, Jardine Lookout, Kennedy Town, Metroplaza, Metropolis, New Hopewell Centre, Peak Road, Shouson Hill, South Horizons, Stanley Plaza, Tai Tam, Tin Hau Temple)

MACAU HOTELS Altira Macau Crown Tower Galaxy Macau Galaxy Macau - Banyan Tree Macau

Galaxy Macau - Hotel Okura Grand Hyatt Grand Lapa Grand Lisboa Hard Rock Hotel Hotel Lisboa Hotel San Tiago Mandarin Oriental MGM Macau Pousada de Mong-Ha, IFT Sands Cotai Central Sofitel Macau StarWorld Hotel Wynn Macau

RESTAURANTS 11 Cafe 360° Café A Lorcha A Petisqueira ABA Bar Albergue 1601 Antica Trattoria Antonio Restaurant Aurora Aux Beaux Arts Bambu Bar Azul Bar Florian Beijing Kitchen Belcanção Belon Bene Cabana Café Bela Vista Café Deco Café Lan Café Litoral Café of 4 Cafe Ou Mun Café Panorama Café Siam Camoes Restaurant Cascades China Rouge City Café Clube Militar de Macau Conrad the Lounge Copa Steakhouse Cozinha Pinocchio Taipa Cuppacoffee Bakery and Coffeeshop Don Quijote Dynasty 8 EDO Japanese @ One Central Edo Japanese Restaurant Edo Japanese Restaurant EDO Japanese Restaurant EDO Japanese Restaurant COD Edo Restautant Festiva Fogosamba Fortune Inn Restaurant Ginza Kaiten Sushi Golden Court Gosto Grand Emperor Court Grand Imperial Court Henri's Gallery Hero Chinese Restaurant Holiday Inn Lobby Lounge Illy Coffee Imperial Court Inagiku Indian Garden Restaurant Irish Bar Jade Dragon Jade Garden Jin Yue Xuan Kam Lai Heen King of Kings

Kira Kwun Hoi Heen L'Arc Coffee Shop L'Arc Lounge L'Arc The Chinese Restaurant La Bonne Keure French Cuisine La Cucina La Gondola La Kaffa Café La Paloma Lan Laurel Laurel Lax Café Le Cesar Lei Garden Lemongrass Macau Thai Café Litoral Restaurant Lord's Stow Bakery Lua Azul Macallan Macau Dynasty Café Madeira Portuguese Majestic Robatayaki McSorley's Mezza 9 MGM Patisserie MGM Mistral MJ Café MO Lobby Lounge + Cake Shop Modern Thai Morton's Steakhouse Mugs Talk Myung Ga Korean Restaurant Naam Thai Nagomi O Porto Interior Restaurante Old Shanghai Old Taipa Tavern Osgatos Pacific Coffee Pacific Coffee COD Pacific Coffee Galaxy Pacific Coffee SCC Pak Lok Palms Pâtisserie, Lobby Lounge Pearl Lounge Petrus Pink Grill Pizzeria Toscana Prive R Bar Rendezvous Restaurante Fernando Rossio Royal Orchid Saffron Sakazuki Savory Crab Shanghainese 456 Singing Bean Sky 21 Spice Garden Square 8 Starworld Concierge Starworld Lobby VIP lounge Talay Thai Restaurant Tang's Cuisine Tenmasa Terrace Terrazza The Crystal Piano The Feast The Hotness The Roadhouse The Royal Kitchen The Tasting Room by Galliot Treasure Palace Tsui Wah

Varanda Vasco Vergnano Italian Vida Rica Bar Vida Rica Restaurant Wave Westin The Lounge Windows Restaurant Windsor Lounge Xin Yamazato Ying Zi Yat Heen

CLUBHOUSES Airport Priority pass lounge Caesars Golf Macau FIT Club French Wine Institute Kings Ville La Baie du Noble La Cite Lake View Tower L'Arc Macau Jockey Club Manhattan Mariott Vacation Club Asia Pacific Millennium Nova City Ocean Garden Clubhouse One Central The Buckingham The Pacifica Garden The Praia The Residencia TIS The International School of Macao Macau Golf & Country Club Qube - Venetian Qube - Sands Cotai Central

PRIVATE BANKING Bank of China BOC BNU ICBC Wing Hang Bank - Elite Banking

GOURMET SHOP & WINE SHOP Akasaka Ibéricos Fu Wan Commercial and Industrial Enterprise ltd.

Gourmet Corner Jointek Macau Shop MBL Pacific Wine Mart Prestige Jewelry & Gift

SPAS Grand Lapa Spa Six Senses Spa MO The Spa Royal Thai Spa Malo Clinic Spa Four Seasons Spa Bodhi Spa Altira Spa Banyan Tree Spa Rock Spa Isala Spa Crown the Spa

TRANSIT Air Macau Jet Asia Macau Jet Burgeon Rent a car Avis Turbojet Xunlong

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$336 $252 for your first 6 issues Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

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RESTAURANT LISTINGS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

Amber

Duddell’s 都爹利会馆

Oasis 绿洲

Modern French 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环皇后大道中15号置地广场文华东方酒 店7楼 q +852 2132 0066 Mon to Sun: 7:00 - 10:30; 18:30 - 22:30 Mon to Fri: 12:00 - 14:30 Sat & Sun: 12:00 - 14:00 A Smart Casual

Chinese Levels 3, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环都爹利街1号上海滩3至4楼 q +852 2525 9191 Mon to Thu: 12:00 - 00:00 Fri to Sat: 12:00 - 01:00 Sun: 12:00 - 23:00

Banquet 211, 2/F Grand Resort Deck, Galaxy Macau, Estrada da Baia de Nossa Senhora da EsperenÇa, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹望德圣母湾大马路澳门银河天浪淘 园2楼211 q +853 8883 2221 Daily: 11:00 - 23:00 A Smart casual

Felix

Pierre

5

Belle-Vue 悦景 Classic European 37th floor, 1881 Baoan Nan Road, Luohu District, Shenzhen, China, 518001 中国深圳罗湖区宝安南路1881号深圳君悦酒 店第37层 q +86 755 2218 7338 Tue to Sun 18:00 - 22:00 A Shorts and slippers are not permitted 5

Belon 贝隆 European 31/F Banyan Tree Macau, Avenida Marginal Flor de Lotus, Cotai Macau 澳门路氹莲花海滨大马路澳门悦榕庄31楼 q +853 8883 6090 Daily: 18:00 - 23:00 A Smart Casual 5

BIBO French 163 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong 香港上环荷李活道163号 q +852 2956 3188 Mon to Fri: 12:00 - 14:30; 18:30 - 00:00 Sat: 18:30 - 00:00 5

DaDong 大董 大董金宝汇店 Dadong Jinbaohui 5/F, Jinbao Place Shopping Center, No. 88 Jinbao Street, Dongcheng District, Beijing 中国北京市东城区金宝街88号 金宝汇购物中心五层 大董南新仓店 Dadong Nanxinchang No.22 Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng District, Beijing 中国北京市东城区东四十条22号 (南新仓国际大厦) 大董团结湖店 Dadong Tuanjiehu No. 3 Tuanjiehu Beikou, Dongcheng District, Beijing 中国北京市朝阳区团结湖北口3号楼 (长虹桥东南侧) 大董郑州店 Dadong Zhengzhou No. 56 Yingxie Road, Jinshui District, Zhengzhou 中国郑州市金水区英协路56号

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Modern European 28/F, The Peninsula Hong Kong, 19-21 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong 香港尖沙咀弥敦道19-21半岛酒店28楼 q +852 2696 6778 Daily: 17:00 - 01:30 A Smart Casual 5

IFT Educational Restaurant 旅游学院教学餐厅

5

French 25/F, Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Road Central, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环干诺道中5号香港文华东方酒店25楼 q +852 2825 4001 Mon to Fri: 12:00 - 14:30 Mon to Sat: 19:00 - 22:30 A Smart Casual 5

QUEMO Spanish / Basque 5/F, QRE Plaza, 202 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔皇后大道东202号 QRE Plaza 5楼 q +852 2836 0699 Daily: 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 23:00 A Casual Chic

Traditional Macanese and Portuguese Colina de Mong-Há, Macao 澳门望厦山 q +853 8598 3077 / 8598 3076 Mon to Fri: 12:30 - 22:30 A Casual Chic

5

KEE Club

RIVA and The Deck

Private member Club 6/F, 32 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环威灵顿街32号 q +852 2810 9000 Mon to Thur: 10:00 - 00:00 Fri to Sat: 10:00 - 04:00 A Dressy

Western 27/F, The Park Lane Hong Kong, 310 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港铜锣湾告士打道310号柏宁酒店27楼 q +852 2839 3327 Daily: 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 00:00

Le Chinois 乐轩华

5

5

5

5

Sala Poolside Café 乐陶池畔咖啡厅

Cantonese 18/F, Sofitel Macau At Ponte 16, Macau 澳门十六浦索菲特酒店18楼 q +853 8861 1001 Daily: 09:00 - 15:00; 17:30 - 22:00

Australian BBQ L4, Sheraton Macao Hotel, Cotai Central, Macau 澳门喜来登金沙城中心酒店四楼 q +852 8113 1200 Sat: 18:00 - 22:00 (till Oct 25, 2014) Adults: MOP 398+, Children: MOP 199+ A Casual Chic

Mama San Restaurant & Bar

Vida Rica Restaurant 御苑餐厅

Burmese, Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese 1/F, 46 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港云咸街46号一楼 q +852 2881 8901 Daily: 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 23:00 A Dressy

Chinese & Western Mandarin Oriental Macau, Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau 澳门孙逸仙博士大马路文华东方酒店 q +853 8805 8918 Daily: 06:30 - 22:30 A Smart Casual

5

5

NUR Western 3/F, Lyndhurst Tower, 1 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环摆花街1 号一号广场三楼 q +852 2871 9993 Mon to Sat: 18:30 - 00:00 A Dressy 5

5

Ying 帝影楼 Chinese 11/F Altira Macau, Avenida de Kwong Tung, Taipa, Macau 澳门氹仔广东大马路澳门新濠锋酒店11楼 q +853 2886 8868 Daily: 11:00 - 16:00; 18:00 - 22:30 A Smart Casual 5

DAVID HARTUNG

dessert

For Grand Hyatt Shenzhen’s Belle-Vue, Chef Marc Briol created this wickedly rich and piquant lemon tart served with strawberry foam and citrus sherbet. The tart’s body is sugary and smooth, and the sherbet slices through the sweetness with a beautifully refreshing shiver, the perfect indulgence for summer. 在深圳君悦酒店悦景餐厅，主厨Marc Briol创作出浓郁辛香的柠檬塔，佐以草莓慕丝与柑橘雪酪。 塔身给人甜蜜滑顺的口感，从中沁出雪酪的清新微酸，是夏日犒赏自己的甜点圣品。

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Hong Kong & Macau enquiries: drinks@bomcarma.com appetite for art

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